Table of contents

1. Abstract:..............................................................................................................................................2
2. Introduction:........................................................................................................................................2
2.1 Chemicals Nature of Direct Dyes................................................................................................2
2.2 Post Treatment With Fixing Agent(Functions)............................................................................3
3. Experimental:......................................................................................................................................3
3.1 Material.......................................................................................................................................3
3.2 Recipe:.........................................................................................................................................3
3.3 Conditions:..................................................................................................................................4
3.4 Calculations.................................................................................................................................4
4. Methodology:......................................................................................................................................4
4.1 For Exhaust Method:...................................................................................................................4
4.2 Color matching both test:.............................................................................................................4
4.3 Crock meter:................................................................................................................................5
5. Results.................................................................................................................................................5
6. Conclusion:..........................................................................................................................................6
7. References:..........................................................................................................................................7
8. Sample Representation:.......................................................................................................................7

List of Tables and Figures:

Figure 1 Congo red direct dye structure.......................................................................................................2
Figure 2 reactive dye structure......................................................................................................................3

Table 1 Amount of ingredients required........................................................................................................3

Table 2 crock fastness values of fabrics by exhaust process.........................................................................5
Table 3 Color evaluation of fabrics..............................................................................................................5

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 To dye a cotton fabric by direct dye using semicontinuous process.
1. Abstract:
In this lab, Direct dye application on cotton fabric was done by semi continuous pad steam method by
water bath (exhaust process). Then fabric was dried on Stenter.Cold washing was done.One half of fabric
was cut and was applied post treated by fixing agent solution with waterand 2 g activator, at certain pH.
Then it was dried and cured in stenter. After the process rubbing fastness and color matching test of both
fabricswere observed.Comparison between results of both fabricswas observed.

2. Introduction:
Direct Dye is a class of dyestuffs that are applied directly to the substrate in a neutral or alkaline bath.
They produce full shades on cotton and linen without mordanting and can also be applied to rayon, silk,
and wool. Direct dyes give bright shades but exhibit poor wash fastness. Various after treatmentsare used
to improve the wash fastness of direct dyes, and such dyes are referred to as “after treated direct
colors.”Direct Dyes are molecules that adhere to the fabric molecules without help from other chemicals.
Direct dyes are defined as anionic dyes with substantively for cellulosic fibres, normally applied from an
aqueous dyebath containing an electrolyte, either sodium chloride (NaCl) or sodium sulfate (Na2SO4).[1]

Figure 1 Congo red direct dye structure

The dyeing process with direct dyes is very simple, direct dyeing is normally carried out in a neutral or
slight alkaline dyebath, at or near boiling point, but a separate after treatment such as cationic dye fixing;
to enhance wet fastness has been necessary for most direct dyeing.[2]
2.1 Chemicals Nature of Direct Dyes
Structure
More than 75% of all direct dyes are un metalized azo structures, great majority of them are disazo or
polyazo types.
Ionic Nature
Their ionic nature is anionic.
Solubility
They are soluble in water.
Affinity
They have an affinity for a wide variety of fibers such as cotton, viscose, silk jute, linen etc. They do not
make any permanent chemical bond with the cellulosic fibers but are attached to it via very week
hydrogen bonding as well as VanderWaals forces. Their flat shape and their length enable them to lay
along-side cellulose fibers and maximize the Van-dark-Waals, dipole and hydrogen bonds.[3]. Reactive
dye is capable of reacting chemically with a substrate to form a covalent dye substrate linkage, is known
as reactive dye. The dye contains a reactive group and this reactive group makes covalent bond with the
fibre polymer and act as an integral part of fibre. This covalent bond is formed between the dye molecules
and the terminal –OH (hydroxyl) group of cellulosic fibers on between the dye molecules and the
terminal –NH2 (amino) group of polyamides or wool fibers.[4]

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 Figure 2 reactive dye structure

2.2 Post Treatment With Fixing Agent(Functions)

 The reactive groups in dye-fixing agent will crosslink with the reactive groups of dye and hydroxyl of
fiber, achieving the purposes of dye-fixing.
 It will produce insoluble color lake, closing the soluble group and the dye on fabric will not drip off,
reaching the purpose of wet fastness. But this kind of color-fixing is easy to cause the color change
and the decrease of light fastness.
 The molecular attraction of dye fixing agent and fiber will increase the fixing strength of the dye-
fixing agent, thus, the Congo red direct dye structure Congo red direct dye structure fastness will increase.
 Produce net film covering on the fabric and prevent the dye from dropping.
 Introduce ultraviolet light absorber into the dye-fixing agent molecule, the Ultraviolet absorption
groups will absorb the ultraviolet ray in sunshine, and prevent the damage to ultraviolet ray on dyeing
structure, thus it will improve the light fastness.
 The use of some substance’s chlorine resistance or oxygen suction property, prevent the attack of
active chlorine on activated dyes. Thus it will improve the resistance to chlorine leaching fastness and
fastness to chlorine bleaching.
 The acid absorbing ability of dye-fixing agent wills neutral the acidic chemicals in the perspiration.
And prevent the broken of the activate dyeing covalence bond between active dye and fiber. Thus, the
reach the purpose of perspiration fastness.
 The smoothing agent in the dye-fixing agent will decrease the friction coefficient of fiber surface,
thus, it will improve fabric’s crock fastness.

3. Experimental:
3.1 Material
 Direct dye
 Salt
 Alkali
 water
 Detergent
 Rota wash
 Padder
 Beakers
 Glauber salt
 Bleached cotton fabric
 stirrer
3.2 Recipe:
Table 1 Amount of ingredients required

Sr. Ingredients name Amount for exhaust process

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 No.
1 Indosol yellow 14 X%
2 Salt 40-60g/l
3 Alkali 10g/l
4 Liquor ratio 1:20
5 Fixer solution 22.4 g
3.3 Conditions:
For exhaust
Time = 15 minutes
Temperature =60o
Cold washing = 5 minutes
Fixer solution pH = 5.5
3.4 Calculations
Exhaust process
Fabric weight = 131
Liquor ratio =1:20
Water required = 2620mm
Dye amount = 0.262g
Fixer solution = 22.4g

4. Methodology:
4.1 For Exhaust Method:
 Amount of recipe calculated. Water was taken into the beaker. The beaker was pre heated and recipe
was added.
 Fabric swatch was immersed in beaker and 60 o temperature was maintained. 15 minutes dyeing was
done. After cold washings was performed for 2 mints
 The fabric was dried at 1000 on stenter and then cut into 2 parts. Fixer is applied on one.
 The fixer solution along with water and activator was prepared in a beaker of 22.4 g/l.
 Fabric swatch was dipped in it and PH was maintained.
 Then fabric was taken out and dried in stenter at 100 o for 5 mints and then cured in stenter for 180 ofor
2 mints.
 Finally, K/Sand wash fastnesstests of both fabrics were taken and compared.
4.2 Color matching both test:
Visual assessment of colored samples, for purposes of colour control and specification, requires careful
specification of several factors, including:
 Nature and intensity of the light source
 Angle of illumination and viewing of the samples
 Colours of the surrounds and sample background
 Size and distance apart of the samples
 State of adaptation of the observer
 Observer’s color vision characteristics
 Agreement on the color-difference terms to be used.
The modern colour-matching booth takes into account the first three of these factors, whilst
recommendations can be laid down to standardize (as far as is possible) the state of adaptation of the

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observer and for pre-testing assessors for their colour vision characteristics. For the consistent use of
colour-difference terms the observers must be appropriately trained and experienced in colour-difference
assessments. Most colour-matching booths provide a selection of light sources available, with press
button accessibility. Typical sources that might be available include:
 artificial daylight’ source, often labelled (incorrectly) D65
 tungsten-filament source
 three-band fluorescent source (TL84)
 UV source (enhance fluorescent whites)
4.3 Crock meter:
The abrading finger has a flat circular rubbing face which is covered with 4 piece of white
abradant fabric during the test. The abradant fabric picks up color lost by the test specimen
during rubbing. It is held over the finger with the help of a tapered ring.

5. Results
Table 2 crock fastness values of fabrics by exhaust process

Rubbing fastness Method Dry Wet

test
Sample 1 Direct (without 2/3 5
fixer)
Sample 2 Direct 3 5

Table 3 Color evaluation of fabrics

Sr. Dyes Light source Tone

no
1 Sample 1 D65 Yellow
2 Sample 2 D65 Red
The dye used for sample 1 was direct so it doesn’t made any chemical bond and only joined by physical
bonding between dye and fabric. That why it had poor wet fastness results, where as sample 2 was the
applied by a razol so cross linker was used that created a web so dye gets locked and ionic reaction
bonding takes place. Also self cross linking takes place. So sample 2 had better fastness results

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comparatively. The tone on ample 1 was redder and the after fixer treatment on sample 2, shade turns to
yellower tone because the razol will create yellowing on heat of curing as it is heat sensitive.
Shade change by visual examination was done and tonal effect was observed. The before treated sample
was redder and after treated was yellower due effect of curing heat on razol.

6. Conclusion:
Direct dye is applied with the help of exhaust process. Some after treatment processes are applied on it
using fixing agent and catalyst. Different type of after tests such as rubbing test and color evaluation of
fabrics are done to see the shade variation and rubbing fastness because direct dye is attached to the fabric
with any bond so its washing fastness is very poor.

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7. References:

[1] M. I. Kiron, “Textile Learner,” 09 April 2012. [Online]. Available:

https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/09/dyeing-of-cotton-with-direct-dyes.html. [Accessed 14
October 2020].

[2] B. D, “Blog.fabricuk.com,” 14 February 2013. [Online]. Available: https://blog.fabricuk.com/direct-

dyeing-of-fabrics/.

[3] W. Schindler, “Direct Dye Structure,” Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles, 2006, pp. 95-113.

[4] "direct dye," slideshare, [Online]. Available: https://www.slideshare.net/sayeedice/direct-dye.

[Accessed 13 october 2019].

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8. Sample Representation: