Motorcycle Riders Guide 2022

Queensland
Motorcycle Riders’
Guide
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Contents
Introduction 1
Motorcycle licensing in Queensland 2
Rules for riders 10
Protective gear 14
Motorcycle types, trailers and sidecars 21
Motorcycle controls and maintenance 24
Safety checks and maintenance 26
Riding techniques 28
Roadcraft 34
Risk factors 48
Managing problems while riding 56
Motorcycle crashes 59
Returning riders 60
Course activities 65
Notes 72
Key sequences 74
Queensland Motorcycle Riders’ Guide
Introduction
This guide contains important information on getting a motorcycle licence, road rules,
protective gear, low-risk riding tips and techniques, risk management and registering a
motorcycle.
Motorcycling can be fun, economical and safe, but we have to recognise that motorcycle
riders are among our most vulnerable road users.
In a crash, motorcycle riders have less protection than drivers and have a greater chance
of being killed or injured — motorcycle riders and their passengers are overrepresented in
the Queensland road toll.
The motorcycle licensing system is designed to help you become a safe rider. Our aim is to
make motorcycling a safe and enjoyable experience for those who choose to ride.
You can become a safer rider by getting the necessary skills, and understanding the
road environment. You always need to ride sensibly and safely, be alert and defensive,
anticipate and respond to the road environment, and accept that you are responsible for
your safety on the road.
Enjoy your riding, but above all, ride to survive.
Department of Transport and Main Roads, March 2022 1

Motorcycle licensing in Queensland
Queensland has a graduated licensing system for new riders, with two motorcycle licence
classes:
• RE (restricted to learner approved motorcycles)
• R (unrestricted — may ride any motorcycle)
New riders are required to complete stages of training and assessment to obtain an
unrestricted, R motorcycle licence. The training covers the key skills required for riding on
the road and is taught in three stages — pre-learner, restricted (RE) and unrestricted (R).
Overview of the motorcycle licensing system
Pre-learner course
Knowledge test
RE learner licence
Motorcycle hazard perception test
Restricted (RE) course
RE provisional or open licence
Unrestricted (R) course
R provisional or open licence
Licence types
New riders are required to pass through three licensing stages to obtain an unrestricted
motorcycle licence.
• RE learner licence.
• RE provisional or open licence.
• R licence.
2 Queensland Motorcycle Riders’ Guide

RE learner licence
An RE learner licence authorises you to learn to ride a learner approved motorcycle under
supervision. To apply for an RE learner licence you must:
• Hold a car (class C) provisional or open licence and have held the licence for at least
one year (in the five years before applying for the learner licence).
• Successfully complete a Q-Ride Pre-Learner Course.
You may apply for an exemption from the Q-Ride pre-learner course if you live outside a
100 kilometre radius of a Q-Ride training area, however you will then need to hold your
learner licence for longer.
• Pass the motorcycle knowledge test, and pay the test fee.
You may also apply for an RE learner licence if you are a returning rider — you previously
held a provisional or open motorcycle licence but it stopped being valid more than five
years ago. If you are a returning rider you will be given a certificate that you must carry
while learning to ride.
While learning to ride you must:

• Wear an approved helmet.
• Only ride a learner approved motorcycle.
• Be supervised by a licensed rider, who has held an open RE or R licence for at least one
year. Your supervisor may direct you from a sidecar attached to your motorcycle, from
another motorcycle or vehicle.
• Display a capital L that is clearly visible from 20 metres to the rear of the motorcycle.
You can display an L-plate or wear a vest.
• Not carry a pillion passenger.
• Have zero blood alcohol concentration.
• Not lane or edge filter. For more information about lane or edge flitering, see page 12.
• Always carry your licence, or driver licence receipt if waiting for the licence in the mail.
You must hold your RE learner licence for at least three months before you can progress to
an RE provisional or open licence (at least one year if you were granted an exemption from
the pre-learner course). However, if you are a returning rider there is no minimum time that
you must hold your learner licence.

RE provisional or open licence
An RE provisional or open licence authorises you to ride a learner approved motorcycle
unsupervised. To progress from an RE learner licence to an RE provisional or open licence
you must:
• Have successfully completed the Motorcycle Hazard Perception Test.
This test is available online on the Queensland Government website www.qld.gov.au
and search ‘Motorcycle Hazard Perception Test’.
• Have held your RE learner licence for at least three months.
If you were granted an exemption from the pre-learner course you will need to have held
your learner licence for at least one year.
• Successfully complete a Q-Ride Restricted (RE) Course.
You may complete the Q-SAFE riding test if you live outside a 100 kilometres radius of a
Q-Ride training area.
The type of RE licence (provisional, probationary, or open) you get will be determined by
the licence you hold. For example, if you hold a car P1 licence, you will be issued an RE P1
licence.
While riding with an RE provisional or open licence you must:

• Only ride a learner approved motorcycle.
• Display the correct P-plate clearly visible from 20 metres to the rear of the motorcycle, if
you hold a provisional licence.
– For P1 riders: red P plate or vest with red P .
– For P2 riders: green P plate or vest with green P .
• Not carry a passenger for the first year.
• Have zero blood alcohol concentration for the first year (at all times if you hold a
provisional licence).
• Not lane or edge filter, if you hold a provisional licence.
• Always carry your licence, or driver licence receipt if waiting for the licence in the mail, if
you hold a provisional licence.
You must hold your class RE provisional or open licence for at least two years before you
can progress to a class R provisional or open licence.
After two years you are automatically authorised to commence learning to ride a class R
motorcycle. While learning to ride a class R motorcycle you must display an L-plate clearly
visible from 20 metres to the rear of the motorcycle, and be supervised by a licensed rider,
who has held an open class R licence for at least one year.

If you are a returning rider for a class R licence, there is no minimum time that you must
hold your class RE provisional or open licence.
R provisional or open licence

An R licence authorises you to ride any motorcycle unsupervised.
To learn to ride an R motorcycle or progress from an RE provisional or open licence

to an R licence you must:
• Have held your RE provisional or open licence for at least two years.
• Successfully complete a Q-Ride Unrestricted (R) Course.
You may complete the Q-SAFE riding test if you live outside a 100 kilometre radius
of a Q-Ride training area.
The type of R licence (provisional, probationary, or open) you get is determined

by the licence you hold. For example, if you hold an RE open licence, you will get
an R open licence.
While riding with an R licence you must:

• Display a P-plate clearly visible from 20 metres to the rear of the motorcycle, if you hold
a provisional licence.
• Not lane or edge filter, if you hold a provisional licence.
• Always carry your licence (driver licence receipt if waiting for the licence in the mail),
if you hold a provisional licence.
Training and testing requirements

Knowledge test
The motorcycle knowledge test is designed to ensure all riders understand important
licensing requirements, road rules, and risk management and hazard perception
principles before learning to ride on the road.
The test consists of 30 multiple choice questions based on information contained in this
Guide and in Your Keys to Driving in Queensland. You need to answer at least 27 out of 30
questions correctly to pass the test.
To be eligible to take the test you must have:

• Successfully completed the Q-Ride Pre-Learner Course, or obtained an exemption.
• A valid provisional, probationary or open licence.
• Held a car licence for at least one year in the past five years.

Online
You can take the knowledge test and pay the test fee online at www.qld.gov.au and search
‘transport knowledge test’. To take the test online, the successful completion of the Q-Ride
Pre-Learner Course, or an exemption, must be recorded on your Department of Transport
and Main Roads (TMR) licence record. Your Q-Ride training provider may notify TMR
that you have successfully completed the course, or you may present your competency
declaration at a driver licence issuing centre.
You can take the test once a day and a one-off fee is required when you pass. If you pass
and pay for the test online, you may be able to have the RE learner added to your licence
and a new licence sent to you, without attending a driver licence issuing centre.
In person
You can take the knowledge test and pay the test fee in person at a driver licence issuing
centre. You can only take the test once a day, and must pay the fee for each attempt.
If you are a returning rider, you need to complete the test in person.
Motorcycle Hazard Perception Test

The Motorcycle Hazard Perception Test is designed to ensure that riders have adequate
hazard perception skills before they progress to unsupervised riding. Hazard perception
when riding a motorcycle is very different to driving a car. Being able to identify and
respond appropriately to a hazard is an important safe riding skill. The test features
situations that have proven to be the most dangerous for riders.
The Motorcycle Hazard Perception Test depicts hazards from the perspective of the rider.
To be eligible to take the test you must have your learner motorcycle licence. There is no
tenure requirement. You need to successfully complete the test before you can take the
Q-Ride RE Course or Q-Safe practical riding test and upgrade from a learner licence.
The test is available online at www.qld.gov.au and search ‘Motorcycle Hazard Perception
Test’. It is not available at driver licence issuing centres.

Q-Ride courses
The three Q-Ride courses, pre-learner, restricted (RE) and unrestricted (R), form a holistic
competency-based training and assessment program. The courses are delivered by Q-Ride
training providers, accredited by TMR.
You must undertake the Q-Ride courses to progress through the motorcycle licensing
system if you live within a 100 kilometer radius of a Q-Ride training area.
Q-Ride training providers set their own course fees. It is recommended that you contact
a number of Q-Ride training providers to choose a provider that best suits your location,
learning style and budget. To find a Q-ride provider near you go to www.qld.gov.au and
search ‘Q-Ride trainer’.
Pre-learner course
The Q-Ride Pre-Learner Course is designed to help you gain basic riding knowledge and
motorcycle handling skills in a safe environment before learning to ride on the road.
Designed for people with no riding experience, the course is conducted entirely off-road
encompassing theory elements, demonstrations, coaching and riding practice. The course
covers the basics of riding including protective gear, riding curves, controlled braking
and good roadcraft.
The course aims to ensure you have the knowledge and skills to manage routine riding
situations under supervision, to instil good riding attitudes, and to minimise the
likelihood of harm due to inadequate riding knowledge or skills.
Restricted (RE) course

The Q-Ride Restricted (RE) Course is designed to help you further develop your riding
knowledge and skills.
Designed for people who have completed the pre-learner course and have some riding
experience, the course is split between off-road and on-road activities. The course reviews
and builds on the pre-learner course to further develop your knowledge and skills.
The course aims to ensure you have the knowledge and skills to manage riding situations
unsupervised, to reinforce good riding attitudes and to minimise the likelihood of harm
due to inadequate knowledge, skills, or risk management.
Unrestricted (R) course

The Q-Ride Unrestricted (R) Course is designed to reinforce your riding knowledge and
skills, and further develop your higher order cognitive skills and risk management
strategies. Designed for people who have completed the restricted course and have

significant riding experience, the course is conducted predominantly on-road. After an
off-road check to ensure you can safely be taken on-road, the course consists of on-road
riding interspersed with stops to provide coaching and discuss safe riding behaviours
and strategies.
The course aims to enhance and reinforce your riding knowledge and skills to effectively
manage riding situations on a more powerful motorcycle, to reinforce good riding attitudes
and to minimise the likelihood of harm due to inappropriate riding skills, behaviours or
risk management.
Completing a Q-Ride course

When you have demonstrated all of the competencies for the course, the Q-Ride training
provider will issue a Q-Ride competency declaration. Your training provider may notify TMR
directly that you have successfully completed the course, or may tell you to present the
competency declaration at a driver licence issuing centre.
If your Q-Ride training provider notifies TMR directly that you have successfully completed
the restricted or unrestricted course you may be eligible to upgrade your licence online at
www.qld.gov.au/transport.
A Q-Ride competency declaration is not a licence. You must apply for and be issued the
relevant motorcycle licence (learner, restricted or unrestricted) before you are authorised
to learn to ride or ride that class of motorcycle unsupervised.
What to wear
To undertake a Q-Ride course you must wear:
• An approved helmet.
• Eye protection.
• Gloves providing appropriate protection.
• Long sleeved shirt or jacket.
• Long pants that completely cover your legs.
• Fully enclosed shoes or boots.
Your Q-Ride training provider may supply protective gear for the course.

What to ride
You must undertake a Q-Ride course on a two-wheeled motorcycle that is not a moped.
You will not be able to do a course on a trike as you cannot demonstrate all of the
competencies required, as you could on a two-wheeled motorcycle.
If you are undertaking the pre-learner or restricted courses the motorcycle must be
a learner approved motorcycle. If you are undertaking the unrestricted course the
motorcycle must not be a learner approved motorcycle.
Q-SAFE riding tests

The Q-SAFE riding tests are designed to evaluate a person’s ability to ride safely and
correctly, in different road situations. There are two Q-SAFE riding tests, one to obtain
a class RE provisional or open licence and one to obtain a class R provisional or open
licence.
You can undertake a Q-SAFE riding test, as an alternative to a Q-Ride course, if you live
outside a 100 kilometre radius of a Q-Ride training area.
The requirements that apply to Q-Ride courses regarding what to wear, and what to ride
also apply to the Q-SAFE riding tests.

Rules for riders
Generally you must adhere to the same rules as other motorists. Most rules that apply to
drivers also apply to riders, for example, give way rules, traffic light rules and speed limits.
However there are some rules that specifically apply to riders.
Helmets
You, and any passenger on the motorcycle, must wear a helmet that complies with
the Australian standards (AS/NZS1698 or AS1698), or the United Nations Economic
Commission for Europe standard (ECE 22), in force at the time of purchasing the helmet,
when riding.
The helmet must have a label certifying compliance with the standard. The label can be
stitched to the inside of the helmet or a sticker on the outside of the helmet.
E1
Example of the ECE standard label.
The label may contain any number
from 1 upwards.
Example of the Australian standard label.
Your helmet must be correctly fitted and securely fastened.
Motorcycle control
You must stay in control of your motorcycle at all times. You must sit with one leg on either
side of your seat at all times, but you can lift your leg from the footrests or raise yourself
from the seat if you need to while riding.
Passengers
Pillion passengers
You cannot carry a pillion passenger if you are a learner rider, even if the pillion passenger
is your supervisor. If you hold an RE provisional or open licence you must hold that licence
for at least one year before you can carry a pillion passenger. You can carry a pillion
passenger as soon as you get your R licence.
To carry a pillion passenger, the motorcycle must have an approved seat and adequate
footrests for the passenger.

If you are a pillion passenger you must:
• Be at least eight years old and your feet must reach the footrests.
• Wear an approved helmet, correctly fitted and fastened.
• Sit astride the pillion seat facing forward.
• Not interfere with the rider’s control of the motorcycle.
Sidecar passengers
If you are a learner rider the only passenger you can carry in a sidecar is your supervisor.
If you hold an RE provisional or open licence you must hold your licence for at least one
year before you carry a passenger in a sidecar. You can carry a passenger in a sidecar
immediately when you get your R licence.
If you are a passenger in a sidecar you must:

• Wear an approved helmet, correctly fitted and fastened.
• Remain safely seated in the sidecar.
You can only carry the number of passengers the sidecar is designed to carry.
Keeping left
Generally on a single lane road drivers must keep as near as practical to the left side of the
road. However, due to the importance of lane positioning for rider safety, this rule does
not apply to riders and you can legally use any part of the lane.
If the lane is wide enough you can share it with another vehicle. You may ride side-by-side
with another motorcycle if you are not more than 1.5 metres apart, however you must not
ride more than two riders abreast unless you are overtaking.

Lane and edge filtering
Lane filtering
Lane filtering is riding at low speed between stationary or slow moving traffic travelling
in the same direction as you. You can only lane filter if it’s safe to do so, you’re riding at
30km/hr or less, and you hold an open licence for the motorcycle you’re riding.
You cannot lane filter:

• At a speed of more than 30km/hr.
• Between a vehicle and the kerb.
• In school zones during school zone hours.
• If you hold a learner or provisional licence.
Edge filtering
Edge filtering is riding at low speed on road shoulders or in emergency stopping lanes past
stationary or slow moving traffic. You can only edge filter if it’s safe to do so, you’re riding
at 30km/hr or less, and you hold an open licence for the motorcycle you’re riding.
You cannot edge filter:

• At a speed of more than 30km/hr.
• On roads with a speed limit less than 90km/hr.
• On an unsealed part of the road.
• If you hold a learner or provisional licence.
Carrying an animal or a load

Carrying animals
You can carry an animal in a box, cage or bag attached to the rear or side of your
motorcycle as long as it does not affect the operation of the motorcycle. You must not carry
an animal between your arms and the handlebars.
Carrying loads
You must ensure that any load you carry on your motorcycle, including in a sidecar or
trailer:
• Is properly secured.
• Does not cause the motorcycle to become unstable.
• Does not protrude in a way that is likely to injure or obstruct other vehicles or
pedestrians, or cause damage to a vehicle or other objects, including the road surface.

Towing a motorcycle
Towing a motorcycle is not recommended due to the dangers involved and the fact it
doesn’t have a towing point to attach a cable. However, if a motorcycle is being towed the
distance between the two vehicles must not exceed 2.5 metres. If the towline is longer
than 2 metres, a white or brightly coloured flag, must be attached to the line as a warning.
Parking
When parking you should position the motorcycle so at least one wheel is as close as
possible to the kerb or side of the road.
Road areas
Bicycle storage areas
Bicycle storage areas are located at traffic lights to allow bicycle riders to wait in front of
vehicles stopped at the lights. They are often painted green with a white bicycle symbol.
Motorcycle riders are allowed to enter bicycle storage areas as long as they give way to
bicycle and motorcycle riders already there.
Bicycle lanes
You are not allowed to ride in a bicycle lane unless you are entering
or leaving the road, overtaking a vehicle turning right or avoiding an
obstruction. You can only ride in the bicycle lane for 50 metres.
Footpaths
You must not ride on a footpath except when you are moving from a
driveway or parking space to the road.
Note: Employees, contractors or subcontractors engaged with Australia Post may ride on
a footpath or road reserve in limited circumstances. For information about the rules for
riding postal vehicles on a footpath visit www.qld.gov.au/transport.

Protective gear
No matter what size or style of motorcycle you ride, good gear is an investment in your
safety and everyday riding enjoyment. Riders are vulnerable to injury in a crash, and the
elements — heat, cold, rain, hail and wind.
The right protective gear could make the difference between a nasty fall and injuries that
prevent you from ever riding again. The right gear can also enhance your riding enjoyment
and performance by protecting you from the elements.
Riding without protective gear is a risk never worth taking. Every time you get on your
motorcycle, from a trip down to the shops to a weekend ride in the mountains, you need to
protect yourself.
Protection
Protection from injury
In a crash you are particularly vulnerable to injury. The right gear can prevent or reduce
many of the most common injuries, and almost certainly:
• Prevent or reduce the severity of fractures and joint damage.
• Protect you from cuts and punctures from sharp objects.
• Save you from having the skin and muscle stripped from your body.
• Prevent most of the cuts, gravel rash and friction burns from sliding across the road.
• Reduce the severity of contact burns from the engine and exhaust pipes.
Research suggests that riders who wear protective clothing spend fewer days in hospital
and are 40 per cent less likely to have permanent debilitating injuries.
Protection from the elements

It is not just about injuries from crashes; unprotected skin and eyes are also vulnerable to
flying insects, as well as stones and other debris sprayed up by other vehicles.
Being cold, wet or hot also takes the fun out of a ride, and can be a safety risk by affecting
your riding through distraction, fatigue and dehydration.
Wearing the right gear can:

• Protect you from the weather.
• Improve your comfort when riding.
• Improve your concentration, reducing the likelihood of a crash.

Protective gear basics
Full protective gear is the only way to help save you and your skin. Follow these basic rules
to protect yourself:
• Cover your whole body.
• Wear gear designed for riding.
• Protect your joints with impact protectors.
• Ensure you have high abrasion resistance and impact protection in your most
vulnerable areas.
• Ensure all seams have more than one line of stitching and at least one line of concealed
stitching on exposed seams.
• Ensure all fastenings are secure and protected from contact with the road or other
surfaces in a crash.
• Use insulation, waterproofing and windproofing to cope with the cold.
• Use ventilation and colours to cope with the heat.
• Don’t carry anything in your pockets — falling on hard objects hurts.
• Avoid wearing a backpack. Landing on it in a crash could cause serious spinal injuries.
Helmets
Your most important piece of protective gear is your helmet. You,
and any passenger on the motorcycle, must wear an approved
helmet when riding.
There are two key types of helmets:

• Full face — has a chin panel and visor. Protects your face,
jaw and chin and offers better eye, wind, sun and impact
protection.
• Open face — face open to the elements. Offers less protection
from the elements and impact.
There are many makes and models of helmets available; find one
that has the right features and fit for you. Consider a light colour —
light colours are more visible to other road users and are generally
cooler in summer.
Your helmet should:

• Fit firmly.
• If it hurts or there’s a line on your forehead it’s too tight.
• If you can swivel it on your head it’s too loose.

Regularly check your helmet to ensure there are no dents or weak spots, the strap is
sturdy and the padding hasn’t compressed making the helmet loose. Use mild soapy
water to clean your helmet — some cleaners may weaken the shell.
You should replace your helmet at least every five years, or immediately after a crash
or significant impact, if it becomes loose or the straps are worn. Loose fitting helmets
don’t offer the needed protection, and a worn strap may break in a crash.
Don’t buy a second-hand helmet. You don’t know if it’s been dropped or damaged, or
if it will hold up in a crash.
Eye protection
Your eyes need protection from the wind, dust, rain, insects
and stones thrown up by other vehicles. Only a visor
attached to your helmet or goggles provide the protection
you need.
Some motorcycles have screens or fairings to provide

weather protection. However, these do not provide
adequate protection for your eyes and you should still use
a visor or goggles. Glasses, including sunglasses, are not
adequate.
Your visor or goggles should:

• Be clean and not scratched.
• Be shatterproof.
At night you should use a clear visor or goggles.
You should replace your eye protection if it is scratched as this can impair your vision,
especially at night when scratches can blur and distort light. Clean clear eye protection will
give you the best view of the road environment.
Gloves
The natural reaction in a fall is to use your hands to protect yourself,
even in a minor crash your hands will often be injured. Only gloves
that are specifically designed for riding will provide protection, without
compromising your ability to operate the controls.
Your gloves should:

• Be fully enclosed, covering the whole hand and wrist.

• Have a strengthened palm area.
• Have armour for your knuckles and wrists.
• Overlap your jacket (gauntlet style).
• Have fastenings around your wrists.
Jackets
A purpose made jacket provides the greatest comfort
and protection from the weather and in a crash.
There’s a wide range of riding jackets available; find
one that has the right features and fit for you.
Your jacket should:

• Completely cover your arms and body.
• Be highly abrasion and tear resistant.
• Have armour for your back, shoulders and elbows.
• Be close fitting but comfortable in riding position.
• A tight jacket will become
uncomfortable when riding.
• A loose jacket will flap, which is distracting, and may position the
armour in the wrong position on your body.
• Be zipped up and secured at the wrists.
Pants
Your legs will often take most of the impact in a crash. Only
pants designed for riding will provide protection from
serious injuries. Pants designed for riding will also provide
more comfort and protection from the weather.
Your pants should:

• Completely cover your legs.
• Be highly abrasion and tear resistant.
• Have armour for your hips and knees.
• Be secured at your ankles.
MotoCAP ratings can help you choose the safest purpose-made riding gear to suit
your riding style and protect your skin whether you prefer wearing textile, denim, or
leather. Find out more at www.motocap.com.au

Footwear
Boots are the best footwear for riding, and boots specifically
designed for riding will provide the greatest protection,
without compromising your ability to operate the controls.
Your boots should:

• Be highly abrasion resistant.
• Have armour for your shins and ankles.
• Have zips or velcro fasteners.
• Overlap your pants.
• Have fasteners around your legs.
Don’t ride in running shoes, or worse, in sandals or bare feet. Avoid shoes with rings or
laces that could catch on the motorcycle, and elastic sided boots that are not suitably
reinforced and slip off too easily. Also, beware of steel-capped boots, which can cause
friction burns or may cut into your toes in a crash.
Wet weather gear

Changes in the weather are unpredictable so it often pays to carry wet weather gear with
you at all times. Waterproof, rather than water resistant clothing, that lets your body
breathe is the best way to keep dry. Waterproof gear lets your sweat out, while stopping
the rain water from getting in.
Other protective gear

You should also consider other protective
gear such as:
• Back protectors, to protect your spine in a
crash.
• K
idney belts, to support your organs and
reduce fatigue.
Visibility
Increasing your visibility can greatly reduce your chances of being involved in a crash — if
other road users can see you, even in poor light or bad weather, they can avoid you.
Dress to be seen by choosing gear that maximises your visibility — wear light or brightly
coloured clothing, a fluorescent vest, or use reflective strips.

Helmet: Must be an approved
Serious brain injury helmet.
Visor: Clear for night and

shatterproof without scratches
Shoulder injury and, if the helmet is approved
under an Australian Standard,
must be approved to Australian
Standard AS 1609.
Heavy bruising
Back protector: To protect
the spine in the case of a
crash. Dual density foam is
recommended.
Gloves: Gauntlet style with a

strengthened palm area and
Back injuries
knuckle protection (e.g. extra
layer of leather). Zip or velcro
fastening around wrist.
Hand and
finger damage Jacket and pants: Should be highly
abrasion and tear resistant and
completely cover your arms, legs
and body. They should be secured
at the wrists, waist and ankles to
prevent your protective clothing
Infections from from riding up and exposing your
road contact skin during a fall.
Footwear: Boots should

Abrasions and be leather and overlap
nerve damage the pants in order to
provide shin, ankle and
instep protection. They
should also have zipper
and/or velcro fasteners
in preference to laces
Toes amputated to prevent the boots
from sliding off or being
caught in the pegs,
gears, brake levers etc.

Motorcycle types, trailers and sidecars
Choosing a motorcycle can be one of the most enjoyable and exciting aspects of riding.
Your motorcycle will have a significant impact on how safe you are on the road and how
much you enjoy riding.
Ensure you choose the motorcycle that’s right for you, considering your experience,
physical characteristics and riding intentions — talk to experienced riders, read up, ask
lots of questions at motorcycle retailers and test ride your options.
Learner approved motorcycles

You must ride only a learner approved motorcycle if you hold an RE learner, provisional or
open licence.
A learner approved motorcycle is a production motorcycle that has an electric motor, or an

internal combustion engine with a capacity of not more than 660mL and a power-to-weight
ratio of 150kW/t or less. The motorcycle must not have been modified.
Almost all motorcycles up to 250mL are learner approved motorcycles. However, the
Suzuki RGV250, Kawasaki KR250 (KR-1 and KR1s), Honda NSR250, Yamaha TZR250 and
Aprilia RS250 have been excluded as learner approved motorcycles.
To help you identify what you can legally ride if you hold an RE learner, provisional or open
licence, a list of the motorcycles between 251mL and 660mL is available online — visit
www.qld.gov.au and search learner approved motorcycles.

Types of motorcycles
Naked/Standard
Naked motorcycles are designed for
functionality. This is the basic form of
motorcycle stripped down to its fundamental
parts. These motorcycles are generally light
weight, partly due to the lack of bodywork or
fairings. The riding position is neutral with
feet under the rider’s seat, back upright and
shoulders above the hips.
Sports
Sports motorcycles are designed for speed
and handling. Also known as performance
bikes, the emphasis is on speed, acceleration,
and manoeuvrability. These motorcycles are
generally relatively light weight with powerful
engines, strong brakes, and fairings shaped
to reduce aerodynamic drag. The riding
position is relatively aggressive with feet back
and the body leaning forward over the engine.
Cruiser
Cruisers are designed for relaxed, laid-back
riding. These motorcycles are generally heavy
with a low seat and centre of gravity. The
riding position places the feet forward and the
hands up with the back erect or leaning back
slightly.
Road/Trail
Dual purpose motorcycles are designed
for use both on-road and off-road. These
motorcycles are generally light weight with
a high seat height and centre of gravity. The
riding position is neutral with feet under
the rider’s seat, back upright and shoulders
above the hips.

Tourer
Tourers are designed for long-distance
comfort. These motorcycles are generally
heavy with large windscreens and fairings,
good passenger seating and creature
comforts such as radios, navigation systems
and storage. The riding position is neutral
with feet under the rider’s seat, back upright
and shoulders above the hips.
Moped
Mopeds are small light motorcycles that have
an electric motor, or an internal combustion
engine with a capacity of 50mL or less, and
a manufacturer’s top speed of 50km/hr or
less. These motorcycles generally have a
step‑through style frame, are light weight and
have no clutch or gears. The riding position
places the feet in front of the body, back
upright with shoulders above the hips.
Trike
A trike is a motorcycle with three wheels. Most trikes have one wheel in front and two
wheels behind, however some trikes have two wheels in front and one wheel behind.
Trailers and sidecars

Trailers
Trailers designed to be towed by motorcycles are available. However, because of the
added risk involved, manufacturers of single-track motorcycles do not recommend that
they be used to tow trailers.
Sidecars
A sidecar is attached to the left hand side of a motorcycle to create a three-wheeled
combination. A motorcycle with a sidecar has unique handling characteristics, you will
need special riding techniques to safely operate a motorcycle with a sidecar.

Motorcycle controls and maintenance
Major controls
To safely operate the motorcycle you must be able to use all of the major controls.
• Mirrors — located on either side of the handlebars.
• Throttle — located on the right side of the handlebars, it controls the flow of fuel going
to the engine — more fuel increases your speed.
• Front brake lever — located in front of the grip on the right side of the handlebars,
it applies brakes to the front wheel. The front brake is the primary stopping brake,
providing the majority of the motorcycle’s braking performance. It is used with the rear
brake when reducing speed.
• Rear brake pedal — located in front of the right footrest, it applies brakes to the rear
wheel. The rear brake is used with the front brake when reducing speed to stabilise the
motorcycle and on its own when manoeuvring at walking pace to aid control.
• Clutch lever — located in front of the grip on the left side of the handlebars, it connects
and disconnects drive from the engine to the rear wheel.
• Gear lever — located in front of the left footrest, it is used to select your gear; lift up to
change up, press down to change down.
Minor controls
Similar to the major controls, to safely operate the motorcycle you must be able to use all
of the minor controls.
• Starter — generally located on the right side switch block on the handlebars, this
button starts the engine.
• Engine stop switch (kill switch) — located on the right side of the handlebars, it cuts
power to the engine.
• Ignition — generally located on or near the centre of the handlebars, it must be in the
ON position to start the engine.
• Low/high beam — generally located on the left side switch block on the handlebars
(some motorcycles have a separate flash button to activate high beam), and is
operated with the left thumb.
• Indicator switch — generally located on the left side switch block on the handlebars.
Ensure you know how to cancel the indicator, this isn’t automatic on motorcycles
(check your manual for instructions).
• Horn — generally located on the left side switch block on the handlebars.

• Choke lever — generally located on the handlebars, near fuel tap or on carburettor, it
is used to start a cold engine. Ensure you turn the choke off before riding; if left on the
choke will affect engine performance.
• Fuel tap — generally located under the left side of the petrol tank, it is used to control
fuel flow to the engine between the main and reserve tanks.
Motorcycle parts and controls

Headlight Petrol tank Shock absorber Brake light
Front forks
Carburettor Chain & guard
Indicators
Front brake disc
Rear brake
Engine Footrest
Front brake caliper Exhaust
Gear shift
Right brake pedal
on right hand side
Tachometer Kill switch

Speedometer
High/low High beam
beam switch indicator Right indicator Rear view
Left indicator mirror(s)
Front brake lever
Clutch lever
Starter switch
Throttle
Indicator switch Horn Oil light

Safety checks and maintenance
You should check your motorcycle before every ride — your safety begins with your
motorcycle. Routinely check and maintain your motorcycle to reduce your risk of injury and
the risk of damage to your motorcycle.
Chain — ensure the chain has the Lights — ensure all lights (headlights,
correct tension, not too tight or too tail lights, brake lights) and indicators
loose, and is appropriately lubricated. are clean and operational.
Sufficient Insufficient
tyre tread tyre tread
Tyres — ensure the tyres are in good Brakes — ensure both the front and
condition and are wearing evenly. rear brakes are operational, and that
Check that they have a tread depth the brake pads are in good condition.
of at least 1.5mm across the tread
surface, and are inflated in line with
the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Horn — ensure the horn is operational.

Riding techniques
The key to good riding technique is smoothness, and the key to smoothness is good
preparation and practice.
Riding posture
The correct riding posture is essential for good motorcycle handling, efficient operation of
controls, maximising stability and reducing fatigue.
• Keep your feet on the footrests, arches on the footrests and toes pointed slightly down
and out. This allows quick access to the foot controls.
• Firmly grip the fuel tank with your knees. This balances the motorcycle and allows the
upper body to relax, reducing fatigue and improving control.
• Sit well forward with your weight over the footrests (except if riding a cruiser). This
balances the motorcycle, enhancing steering and braking performance.
• Keep your back relaxed with a slight bend (not hunched). This reduces fatigue and
improves motorcycle handling.
• Keep your arms relaxed with a slight bend. This reduces fatigue and improves steering
and throttle control.
• Position your wrists slightly below the knuckles when not using the hand controls, and
flat when using the controls. This reduces fatigue and allows quick access to controls.
Head up
Back relaxed
Arms relaxed
Sit forward
on the seat
Wrists below
your knuckles
When you get a

motorcycle take the
time to adjust the
controls to suit your
height and build.
Feet on footrests Knees gripping

the motorcycle

Hand signals
Hand signals can improve your safety in situations where lighting conditions make it
difficult for your brake and indicator lights to be seen.
Turning Stopping
To give a hand signal for turning, To give a hand signal for stopping,
extend either arm straight with flat palm extend either arm at a right angle with a
pointing in the direction of the turn. flat palm.
Braking
Motorcycles have two brakes — the front brake providing stopping power and the rear
brake providing stability and control. You need both of them to stop quickly and safely.
Correct braking is done in two stages, set up and squeeze, and are then gently and
gradually released to maintain stability of the motorcycle.
• Set up — the fast but gentle take up of the lever free play.
• Squeeze — the smooth increase of braking pressure.
Two-stage braking improves braking effectiveness, reduces the likelihood of skidding and
provides better control. Get into the habit of always using two stage braking with both
the front and rear brakes every time you slow down or are stopping. The brakes are most
effective when you are upright and travelling in a straight line — braking performance
reduces as steering and the lean of the motorcycle increase. You should aim to brake
before you enter a turn or curve, not in it.
Skidding
Harsh or excessive braking may cause skidding particularly on wet, gravel or slippery
roads. If the front wheel locks up when braking and begins to skid, gently release the front

brake and reapply it more smoothly. If the rear wheel skids, steer into the skid, gently
release the rear brake and reapply it more smoothly.
Emergency braking
Emergency braking is the most important control skill to avoid a crash. The quickest way to
stop a motorcycle is to:
• Position your motorcycle so you are upright and travelling straight.
• Close the throttle.
• Apply the front brake (set up and squeeze), then the rear brake (set up and squeeze).
• Pull the clutch in just before you stop.
Ensure you are prepared if emergencies arise. Practice emergency braking in a safe,
quiet area to develop and hone your skills so you know you are prepared to respond in
emergency braking situations.
Steering
A motorcycle can be steered using direct steering or counter steering, however your body
weight and speed also affect your motorcycle’s direction of travel.
Direct steering
With direct steering your motorcycle goes in the direction that you turn the handlebars.
Direct steering is only used for very low speed turns, such as U-turns or intersections.
Counter steering
With counter steering your motorcycle goes in the opposite direction to which you turn the
handlebars — a slight forward pressure on the left handlebar makes the motorcycle lean
and move left, although the front wheel actually turns slightly right.
Counter steering is used by all riders, many without knowing it — you use counter steering
for all changes in direction, commencing a turn, adjusting your path of travel in a curve or
steering around an object on the road.
Body weight
How you use your body weight will have a significant effect on your motorcycle. Leaning
with your motorcycle in a turn or curve allows your motorcycle to be more upright, giving
the tyres better grip and your motorcycle greater ground clearance. With low speed
turns, such as U-turns or intersections, leaning out from the turn can help balance your
motorcycle.
Effect of speed
Motorcycles are designed to naturally want to travel straight to aid in stability — you have
to make the motorcycle turn. The faster your motorcycle is travelling, the more it wants
to continue straight and the harder it is to turn. Reducing speed before turning or riding
through a curve is essential.
When exiting a turn or curve, wait until your motorcycle begins to straighten before
accelerating. Accelerating will stand your motorcycle up and too much throttle will make
your motorcycle run wide.
Riding curves
Riding around curves requires extra care — it’s important that you get your approach and
road positioning right.
Effect of speed
You should always aim to brake before you enter the curve not while riding through it.
Slowing down on the approach and getting your speed right will give you time to plan the
best path through the curve, ensure you maximise your tyres’ grip on the road, and allow
you to accelerate out of the curve.
Positioning
There are three key principles for a low risk line to ride curves.
• Start curves wide to improve your vision, maintain at least 6 seconds of vision of the
road ahead.
• Buffer the head-on zone to keep away from the area where oncoming vehicles are likely
to cross the centre of the road.
• Plan to finish curves in tight to help get your speed right and leave you room for slight
errors.
Where you start turning into the curve (your turning-in point) will determine the path you
will take through the curve.
Turning-in too early will reduce your Turning-in too late will mean you end
visibility around the curve and can up on the wrong side of the road, or
result in a head on crash or running running off the road.
wide on the exit.

Planning a series of curves
Starting a curve wide and planning to
finish tight allows you to link a series of
curves together. By exiting each curve in
tight you will be in the right position to
enter the next curve.
Vanishing point
The vanishing point can help you
anticipate what the curve is going to do.
The vanishing point is where the sides
of the road appear to come together, or
disappear behind an obstruction. This
point moves relative to your position in the Planning to finish in tight will position
curve, so observing the vanishing point you for the next curve.
can help you identify if the curve is going
to open out or tighten up.
• If the vanishing point moves away from you as you are approaching and riding through
the curve, it’s likely the curve is going to open out.
• If the vanishing point moves toward you as you are approaching and riding through the
curve, it’s likely the curve is going to tighten up.
Road camber
The road camber can help you to anticipate the nature of the curve. Camber is the
difference in height between the centre and outside of the lane — it can be positive or
negative. Most Queensland roads have a crown camber, the middle of the road is higher
than the edges to assist water runoff.
• In a left curve the road will have a positive camber — the outside of the curve (the
middle of the road) is higher than the inside of the curve (the side of the road).
• In a right curve the road has a negative camber — the outside of the curve (the side of
the road) is lower than the inside (the middle of the road).
Anticipating the road camber can help you determine the right speed and lean angle for
riding the curve.
• Positive camber generally assists you in riding the curve as the road slopes in the
direction of curve — this maximises your tyres’ grip, your clearance from the road and
how much you can lean your motorcycle.
• Negative camber generally works against you as the road slopes away from the
direction of curve — this reduces your tyres’ grip, your clearance from the road and how
much you can lean your motorcycle.

Parking
The best place to park is somewhere with sufficient space and protection where the
ground is level and firm:
• Sloping ground may result in your motorcycle toppling over, or you not being able to lift
it off the side stand.
• Unstable ground may cause your feet to slide.
• Soft ground, such as loose gravel, sand or grass, may cause the stand to sink and your
motorcycle to topple over.
Some hints and tips on parking:

• Leave the motorcycle in first gear to prevent it rolling.
• If you need to park on a slope, reverse in and park facing uphill — this will make
getting out a lot easier.
• Position the motorcycle on a 30 degree angle facing in the direction that you will
leave, with the rear wheel close to the kerb or side of the road — this will put you in
a good position to move off when you are ready to go.
Learning to ride
While you’re learning to ride there are some strategies you can use to reduce your risks:
• Start on quiet streets — avoid riding in heavy traffic.
• Practise in areas you know well — avoid unfamiliar areas where your attention will be
diverted to navigating.
• Ride in good conditions — avoid riding on poorly lit roads at night and in bad weather
while you are still learning.
• Choose a supervisor who values skill development and will ride to your ability.

Roadcraft
Riding is never risk free, but a truly skilful rider rides ‘low risk’, applying good roadcraft to
anticipate and respond to hazards. Hazards are anything in your crash avoidance space,
or with the potential to move into that space, that may place you or others in danger.
Ride ‘low risk’ by applying the three key principles of roadcraft; observation, speed
management and road positioning.
Observation
Traffic and road situations change constantly — skilful riders are vigilant in their
observation to always be aware of the road environment.
You can apply good observation using the ‘12, 6, 3’ principle:

• Look 12 seconds ahead to scan your surroundings, observe potential hazards, and plan
your path.
• Maintain at least 6 seconds of vision of the road ahead to give you time to perceive
hazards and take action.
• Keep a 3 second survival space to give you time to respond, and stop if required, to
avoid a crash.
Good observation is more than just ‘seeing’ it’s actively scanning for potential hazards
and perceiving situations as something that may require you to take action.
Good observation can significantly reduce the risk of a crash — keep your eyes moving,
check in one area for a couple of seconds then move your eyes to another area.
Mirrors and head checks

The main purpose of having mirrors is to give you a better view of road conditions behind
you. Checking your mirrors will help you assess how your actions could affect traffic
behind you. You should check your mirrors every few seconds so you always know what is
behind you.
But your mirrors won’t give you the full picture — motorcycles have blind spots just like
other vehicles and a head check is the only way to see what’s in your blind spot.
Check your mirrors before making any changes to your speed, or when approaching
situations that may require you to brake. Be aware of what’s behind you and anticipate
how they may respond if you speed up, slow down or stop.

Check your mirrors and do a head
check to check your blind spots before
moving off from a stationary position
or changing your road position (within
Blind Blind
spot spot your lane, changing lanes or turning).
area area Check around you to ensure it’s safe
before you move off or change your
position, be extra vigilant in case other
road users haven’t seen you or your
indicators.
Check your mirrors and do a head check

before changing your road position.
Speed management
The road environment changes constantly, skilful riders manage their speed and
anticipate that they may need to stop unexpectedly.
You should always ride to the conditions, and never exceed the posted speed limit, as the
faster you are travelling, the longer it takes to stop.
Crash avoidance space

Your crash avoidance space is your response time plus the time it takes for you to stop
from when you start braking. You need at least 3 seconds to react and respond to a
situation. An alert, experienced rider needs at least 1.5 seconds to observe, perceive and
respond to a hazard — a novice rider can require much longer.
Maintain at least a 3 second crash avoidance space to allow you to respond to the
unexpected. In poor conditions such as rain, night and gravel roads, double your crash
avoidance space to 6 or more seconds.
To calculate your 3 second crash avoidance space, as the rear of the vehicle in front
passes a stationary object, such as a power pole or sign, start counting ‘one thousand and
one, one thousand and two, one thousand and three’. If your motorcycle passes the object
before you finish the count, your crash avoidance space is too small. Slow down and
repeat the count again until you get a 3 second crash avoidance space.

3 secs
Slow down to keep at least a 3 second crash avoidance space in good conditions.
more than 6 secs
Slow down to keep at least a 6 second crash avoidance space in poor conditions.
Vision
You must slow down if you do not have at least 6 seconds vision of the road ahead.
Situations where your vision may be reduced include blind curves, crests, blocked
intersections and poor weather.
To calculate 6 seconds of vision, pick a fixed point in front of you that has just come into
view and start a count ‘one thousand and one, one thousand and two ... one thousand
and six’. If you reach the point before 6 seconds you are riding too fast for the available
vision and need to slow down.

6 secs vision
Slow down if you cannot see 6 seconds ahead – maintain 6 seconds of vision.
Good speed management can significantly reduce the risk of a crash — ride to
the conditions and slow down to maintain a 3 second crash avoidance space and
6 seconds of vision.

Position
Space, surface and sight
Traffic and road situations are constantly changing and so is the safest position on the
road — skilful riders aim to be in the right place. There are three key things to consider
when choosing your position on the road; space, surface and sight.
Space
As a rider you have very little to protect you in a crash. The more space you create between
you and potential hazards the better. Moving away and creating space allows you more
time to stop or take evasive action, and can increase the likelihood of you being seen.
Creating space is also called buffering — always choose a position that creates the
greatest buffer.
It is difficult to maintain a crash avoidance space behind you, as another driver or rider
controls the space. If a vehicle behind is travelling too closely, slow down slightly to
increase the space you have in front of you. This will enable you to brake more gradually if
you spot a hazard in front, which will enable the following vehicle more time to stop as well.
When you stop behind another vehicle leave at least one and a half motorcycle lengths
between your front wheel and the back of the vehicle in front. This will provide some space
in case they roll back or if you need to ride around them.
Buffer
Create space from potential hazards When riding in busy traffic you may
like oncoming cars. need to create space from vehicles on
both the left and right.

When riding near parked cars, avoid
problems caused by doors opening,
vehicles pulling out or people stepping
from between cars, by staying toward
the centre or right of your lane.
When being overtaken by another

Buffer
vehicle, create space from it by moving
to the left of the lane.
When riding on country roads, create

space from the wildlife by riding on
the right side of your lane.
Buffer Buffer

Surface
You need to be very aware of the road surface — paint, oil, water, sand, gravel, potholes and
metal plates are some of the road surfaces you will need to manage whilst riding.
Generally the best road surface is the right wheel track of the lane, without the oil slick that
can form in the centre of the lane or the broken pavement and loose gravel at the road edge.
You should try to avoid riding on a poor surface, but sometimes you may need to ride
on a less than ideal surface to create space from another hazard or to ensure you are
seen. Choosing the best position requires constant evaluation of variables of the road
environment.
Whether you should compromise the road surface will depend on the nature of the issue
and other potential hazards. It may be preferable to ride on the less risky surface, such as
light water, to create space from an oncoming vehicle. But if there is a large oil patch on the
road it may be preferable to slightly compromise visibility to avoid it.
Remember, a small change in your position could result in a significant change in the
quality of road surface. If you have to ride on a less than ideal surface, slow down.
Sight
A good road position allows you to see and be seen. Generally the right wheel track of the
lane provides good vision ahead, to the sides and behind you. It also puts you in a good
position to be seen by other motorists — you are directly in front of the driver in the vehicle
travelling behind you, and can be seen in the rear vision and side mirrors of the vehicle in front.
Buffer
Creating space from other vehicles can The further back you follow other
improve your vision of the road ahead vehicles the better you can see
and make it easier for other motorists around them.
to see you.

You should try to avoid riding in other motorists’ blind spots. If you cannot see the external
mirrors of the vehicle in front, the driver cannot see you — this should be a ‘no ride spot’.
Blind Blind
Blind Blind spot spot
spot spot area area
area area
Blind
spot
area
When following a vehicle choose a Remember the blind spot is bigger

position that keeps you out of the for larger vehicles such as trucks
blind spot. and buses.
But remember, sometimes you may need to ride in a position that is less than ideal for
maximising your sight in order to maintain enough space from hazards — reducing space to
improve sight can be risky as it leaves no room for error. Choosing the best position requires
constant evaluation of variables of the road environment.
Ride in a position that balances maximising your space from hazards with the quality
of the road surface and the importance of seeing and being seen.
Applying roadcraft
Intersections
The greatest potential for a crash between you and other motorists is at an intersection.
Vehicles turning in front of you pose the greatest danger and there are no guarantees other
motorists will see you. If another vehicle can enter or cross your path, assume that it will.
As you approach an intersection, slow down and choose a position to create space from
other vehicles and to increase your visibility.

When a vehicle could turn across
your path, slow down and create
space from the vehicle.
Buffer
When a vehicle could turn across your

path or move into your lane, slow down
and create space from the vehicle and
its possible path of travel.
Buffer
When multiple vehicles could turn

across your path, slow down and
create space from both vehicles.
Buffer

Buffer
Blind
spot
area
When approaching a blind When turning at an intersection,

intersection, anticipate the other choose a road position that creates
driver’s line of sight and move to space from potential hazards.
where they can see you.
Gap selection
Gap selection is very important at intersections where the chance of a crash with another
vehicle is high if the gap you select is too small. A safe gap is one that enables you to turn
or cross an intersection without affecting your crash avoidance space or the crash
avoidance space of other motorists.
3 secs
Choose a gap that allows you to Choose a gap that allows you to be
enter the lane without forcing other clear of the intersection 3 seconds
motorists to change speed or road before another vehicle arrives.
position.

Blind crests
Blind crests, like any situation where you can’t see the road ahead are potentially
hazardous — take care and be prepared to take action.
As you approach a blind crest, slow down and choose a road position to create space
from known and potential hazards. This position should also increase your ability to see
hazards and be seen early by other motorists.
Buffer
When approaching blind crests, create When there is a possibility of multiple

a space from possible oncoming hazards slow down and create space
traffic. on both sides.
When approaching blind crests, look for clues as to where the road goes.
Slow down and select a road position to suit.

Multi-laned roads
Multi-laned roads increase your risk of
potential hazards and collisions on the
road — vehicles moving between lanes,
and potentially into your path, or stopping
suddenly are the biggest dangers.
Motorists may change lanes without

checking for other traffic, or even if they
do look they may fail to see you. There are
no guarantees other motorists will see you
— if another vehicle can enter your path,
Buffer
assume it will.
When riding on multi-laned roads be extra

vigilant — choose a road position to create Create space from vehicles behind
space from other vehicles and slow down turning vehicles — not all of them may
to maintain a 3 second crash avoidance be turning and a vehicle may move
space. into your lane.
Buffer Buffer
Buffer
Create space from both parked cars

Slow down and create space from slow
and oncoming vehicles.
moving or stopped traffic; they may be
blocking the view of a turning vehicle.

Overtaking
Overtaking other vehicles is potentially
hazardous — take care and never speed
when overtaking. Where possible use
overtaking lanes that allow you to
overtake safely.
Buffer Before you start overtaking ensure you
have clear vision of the road ahead and
sufficient time to complete the manoeuvre.
When overtaking create space between
yourself and the vehicle you are overtaking.
When overtaking, create space from

the vehicle you are passing.
Before overtaking check for side streets Before overtaking a slow vehicle check
and concealed driveways particularly that the vehicle is not turning into a
in country areas. side road.

Group riding
When riding in a group choose a position that allows you the best vision of oncoming
traffic and hazards.
Buffer
3 secs 3 secs
Buffer
3 secs 3 secs
Buffer
3 secs 3 secs
Buffer
When you are new to group riding start If you’re an experienced group rider
by riding in single file, this formation you can ride in a staggered formation
allows every rider to create space to allow a clear view of the road ahead.
from hazards.

Risk factors
Your beliefs and choices you make will affect how safe you are on the road. Riding
requires your full concentration — your survival depends on awareness, anticipation and
judgement.
Factors that can increase your risk when riding include:

• Attitude.
• Behavioural factors.
• Physical factors.
• Social context.
• Riding environment.
Attitude
How you think and feel is reflected in how you act and interact with others — the right
riding attitude can help to keep you safe on the road.
Riding defensively, anticipating potential hazards and planning your response, is your first
line of defence. You must be focussed on the task of riding — continually evaluating the
riding environment and looking for clues about potential hazards. Anticipating other road
users’ actions and dangers in the riding environment means you will be ready to respond.
Expect that other road users will make mistakes — be patient and treat other road
users with respect.
As much as you can control your own attitude and behaviour, you can’t control the
behaviours of other road users.
If you are the target of aggression or inappropriate behaviour don’t succumb to the
behaviours of others. Remain calm and create space between you and the other motorist.
Reacting to aggressive behaviour with shouting or offensive gestures may further fuel the
aggression and lead to a more unsafe situation.

Behavioural factors
Alcohol and drugs
Don’t drink and ride — drinking alcohol impairs your ability to ride safely. Alcohol affects
your vision, hearing, reflexes, coordination, balance, mood, judgement and response
time. Even a small amount of alcohol increases your risk due to your reduced riding
capability.
You need to remember that it is not just your mistakes that become dangerous. If you have
been drinking you may not be able to respond quickly to others’ mistakes.
Learner riders must have a zero breath alcohol concentration (BAC), this means
nothing to drink.
You must also have a zero BAC for the first year after you get your RE provisional or
open licence.
Many drugs can also impair your ability to ride safely. This includes prescription drugs and
over the counter drugs, such as cold or allergy tablets, as well as illegal drugs. These drugs
can leave you weak, dizzy, drowsy or slow to respond.
Drugs affect your vision, reflexes, coordination, balance, mood, judgement and response
time, increasing your risk of a crash.
Make sure you know the effects of any medication you’re taking before you ride — check
with your doctor and read the label. If it has an effect on your riding, you must not ride.
You must not have any trace of prescribed or illegal drugs in your system when riding —
you may be randomly tested for these drugs. There is no set time for drugs to clear your
system so if you have taken drugs don’t ride.
Thrill seeking and riding aggressively

Riding can be fun and give you a sense of freedom, but you need to remember that you
are also vulnerable — you have little protection if things go wrong. Thrill seeking, speeding
and riding aggressively all increase your risk of crashing. Ride to survive by making choices
that minimise your risk.

Physical factors
Mood
You act and respond differently when you are angry, stressed or unhappy. Your
concentration, judgement and ability to make good riding decisions can be impaired by
a bad mood and you are prone to make mistakes. Improve your safety by not riding when
you are angry, stressed or unhappy.
Fatigue
Riding is more physically demanding and tiring than driving a car — riding can tire you
much more quickly. Fatigue makes it difficult to exercise good judgement and riding
smoothly and safely is almost impossible when you are tired. Fatigue affects your vision,
concentration and balance, all critical for safe riding.
Many people think fatigue involves going to sleep, but for riders the real problem is a
lapse in concentration, even for a moment.
You may be fatigued if you:

• Arrive at a curve more quickly than you expected.
• Run a bit wide on a curve.
• Make a couple of rough gear changes.
• Don’t see a sign.
• Have a dry mouth, or stiff joints (neck, knees and wrists).
• Yawn.
If you have any signs of fatigue, stop when it’s safe and rest. Even if you aren’t tired, stop
and rest every 1.5 hours or 150 kilometres, whichever is first. Help avoid fatigue by:
• Getting enough sleep before you get on the road.
• Drinking plenty of water.
• Avoiding too much coffee or sweet soft drinks.
• Eating small amounts frequently — simple foods like fruit, nuts, a muesli bar or a little
chocolate.
• Avoiding fatty foods and large meals.
• Not making yourself too warm — it’s good to be a little cool.

Dehydration
It’s surprising how quickly you can become dehydrated when riding. This is particularly
true when riding long distances. Dehydration can increase fatigue, impede your judgement
and slow your response times. Help avoid dehydration by:
• Stopping and having a drink of water every 1.5 hours, or more frequently in hot weather.
• Wearing gear that allows your body to ‘breathe’.
• Using a hydro-pack.
Social context
Groups
Riding with a group can be fun, but it also brings pressure to conform with attitudes and
behaviours of the group. Who you ride with can affect your behaviour and attitude toward
risk — positively or negatively, depending on the group.
When you are new to group riding it’s easy to get pushed into situations that are beyond
your comfort zone or ability. Improve your safety by either not riding in a group, or by only
riding with people you trust, who share your motivations and attitudes to riding and will
respect your experience level.
Help avoid the potential pitfalls of group riding by:

• Choosing a group that respects and protects its members — riding to the least
experienced rider’s ability.
• Planning ahead to ensure you know where the group is heading and some meeting
points for if you get separated.
• Riding to your ability and not taking risks to keep up with the group.
Passengers
A pillion passenger can significantly affect your motorcycle’s handling and stability —
it will not accelerate or brake as quickly and will handle differently around turns and
curves, and over bumps. A pillion passenger is also a potential source of distraction,
and an inexperienced pillion passenger can be unpredictable – sudden or unexpected
movements can significantly affect your ability to control the motorcycle.
Improve your safety by either not carrying a pillion passenger, or by only riding with
experienced pillion passengers who you trust. If you are going to ride with a pillion
passenger:
• Consider adjusting the pre-load suspension or increasing your tyre pressure to
accommodate the extra weight.
• Increase your crash avoidance space and leave more time to speed up and slow down.

• Make changes in direction, speed and braking smooth and easy to predict to help your
passenger respond.
• Brief your passenger on how to mount and dismount, where to hang on, and how to
move with the motorcycle. Passengers should follow your lead when leaning.
For rules about who is able to carry a pillion passenger, see page 10.
Carrying a pillion passenger means accepting responsibility for their safety as well
as your own.
Riding environment
Night
Riding at night is considerably more dangerous for riders. Riding at night reduces your
vision and makes it harder for other motorists to see you.
The risks of you hitting an animal, misjudging a curve or not seeing a hazard on the road
surface are greatly increased at night when your vision is reduced. Other motorists’ vision
is also lower and other lights may make it difficult for them to see your headlight or tail
light. They may also have difficulty judging the distance and speed of your motorcycle
because of the single headlight.
When riding at night take extra care and apply strategies to:
• Ensure you can be seen — check that your lights and indicators are working properly,
and wear reflective or fluorescent clothing.
• Maximise your vision — avoid wearing dark, tinted or scratched eye protection, travel
on well-lit roads, and use high beam (except within 200 metres of another vehicle).
• Give yourself time to respond — slow down to maintain at least 6 seconds of vision,
and increase your crash avoidance space — you must be able to stop within the
distance you can see.
Heavy traffic
Riding in heavy traffic increases your risk of a crash due to reduced visibility, more vehicles
turning and changing lanes, increased frustration levels, and exposure to fumes.
Heavy traffic makes it harder for you to see and be seen among the other vehicles,
and exposes you to potentially poor decisions from fatigued, frustrated and impatient
motorists. When riding in heavy traffic apply strategies to:
• Ensure you can be seen — wear reflective or bright clothing.
• Maximise the predictability of your riding — avoid unnecessary lane changes.

• Give yourself time to respond — slow down and increase your crash avoidance space.
You are also vulnerable to exhaust fumes when riding in heavy traffic. Over-exposure
to exhaust fumes can lead to fatigue and headaches, impeding your concentration and
judgement.
Reduce your exposure to fumes by:

• Avoiding riding in heavy or congested traffic.
• Stopping and resting, away from the road, every 1.5 hours.
Exposure
Being cold is stressful and tiring — you become less alert and your response time slows.
A drop in your core temperature can even affect your brain’s function. Cold riders can
become anxious, irritable or detached from the task at hand.
Insulated, windproof gear helps maintain your core temperature — the insulation keeps a
layer of warm air between your body and the shell. Avoid gear that is baggy or too big, as
flapping and buffeting may force the warm air out. Pay particular attention to keeping your
neck, face, hands and feet dry and warm.
Weather hazards
Weather conditions can vary and change quickly. When riding you should be prepared for
a variety of conditions on the road. Below are some conditions you may encounter when
riding and hints and tips on how to manage them safely:
• Bright sunshine may cause significant dazzle — be aware that motorists in front of you
may have difficulty seeing you before they overtake or change lanes.
• Sunrise or sunset will make it hard for you to be seen by other motorists — exercise
extreme caution when riding at these times.
• Heat haze can hide approaching vehicles from you — take extra care to ensure the path
is clear before you overtake other vehicles.
• Fog reduces visibility and your perception of speed — slow down and increase your
crash avoidance space to allow yourself more time to respond. Avoid the temptation to
closely follow another vehicle to see its lights and path of travel.
• Rain can significantly reduce visibility, and water on the road will affect your braking
— slow down and increase your crash avoidance space to allow yourself more time to
respond. Remember that after a long dry spell the road can become slippery, increasing
your stopping distance.
• If spray from other vehicles makes it difficult to see, slow down and drop back until you
can see clearly.

• Avoid painted arrows and road markings as they can be very slippery when wet.
• If you have to ride through a deep puddle ride slowly in low gear and after you are clear
of the water, test your brakes.
• High winds can cause strong gusts when entering or emerging from under bridges
or riding into open country, and can cause vehicles, especially high sided ones, to
veer suddenly — keep your speed down and create space from other vehicles as wind
buffeting can affect the handling of your motorcycle.
Riding in unfavourable weather conditions is tiring, so watch for the signs of fatigue, and
rest if necessary.
Animals
Animals on the road can pose a significant risk for riders. Animals are more active around
dusk and dawn and are often confused by the sound of a vehicle, running towards it
instead of away.
The most effective way to keep the local wildlife and yourself safe is to try to avoid
travelling at the high-risk times of dawn and dusk, and if you have to travel reduce your
speed and be aware of the unpredictable nature of animals.
Even if an animal appears stationary near the edge of the road or is moving away, slow
down, give them plenty of room and be alert – animals are easily startled and can run in
front of your motorcycle. If a large animal, such as a kangaroo or cow, suddenly appears on
the road in front of you, brake firmly. Do not try to swerve (unless it is unavoidable) around
the animal as you are likely to run onto the gravel verge and lose control.

Managing problems while riding
Wobbles
Motorcycle wobbles are usually related to stability problems caused by excessive or
unevenly distributed weight, or mechanical problems such as worn or loose bearings or
worn or under inflated tyres.
If the motorcycle wobbles:

• Keep a firm grip of the handlebars without locking your arms or fighting the steering.
• Gradually roll off the throttle to slow down.
• Gradually apply the brakes and move to the roadside.
Work out what was causing the wobble and fix the problem before you continue riding.
Skidding
Skidding is generally caused by changing course or speed too harshly for the conditions,
resulting in one or both tyres losing grip on the road. Skidding can be dangerous so it’s
important to know how to avoid a skid or how to control it if it happens.
You can minimise the risk of skidding by:

• Riding to the conditions – don’t suddenly or forcibly brake, accelerate or change
direction.
• Avoiding, or slowing down on, slippery surfaces such as gravel, road paint, oil, water
and metal plates.
• Ensuring your tyres are in good condition with sufficient tread, and are inflated to the
correct pressure.
If a skid develops immediately remove the cause:

• If excessive braking is causing the wheel to lock up, ease off the brake and allow the
wheel to rotate. When stability is regained apply the brake more smoothly.
• If excessive speed or harsh acceleration is causing the skid, ease off the throttle and
slow down. When stability is regained apply the throttle more smoothly.
Tyre blow-outs
You can’t always hear a tyre blow, but you should be able to detect a flat tyre from how the
motorcycle handles. If the front tyre goes flat, the steering will feel heavy. If the rear tyre
goes flat, the back of the motorcycle will weave from side-to-side.

If you experience a puncture or blow-out:
• Keep a firm grip on the handlebars and try to keep going in a straight line.
• Try not to use the brakes. If braking is necessary use the brake on the ‘good’ tyre —
braking on the ‘bad’ tyre may result in the tyre separating from the rim.
• If the front tyre goes flat move your weight back to shift the load off the front tyre. If the
rear tyre goes flat move your weight forward.
• Gradually roll off the throttle to slow down.
• When you get your speed down, move off to the roadside and coast to a stop.
Routinely check the condition of your tyres and the tyre pressure to minimise the
chance of a flat.
Broken clutch cable

If the clutch cable breaks your clutch will remain fully engaged. If you are stopped, keep
the brakes firmly applied to stall the engine. If you are riding, slow down, gradually
downshifting the gears when speed permits and shifting to neutral before you come to a
complete stop.
Stuck throttle
If the throttle sticks you should immediately:
• Pull the clutch in.
• Gradually apply the brakes and move off to the side of the road.
• Apply the engine stop switch and turn off the ignition.
Broken chain
If the chain breaks your motorcycle will either freewheel because there is no drive to the
rear wheel, or skid because the rear wheel is locked up.
If the chain breaks and doesn’t lock up the back wheel:

• Roll off the throttle.
• Gradually apply the brakes and move off to the roadside.

If the chain breaks and locks up the back wheel:
• Steer into the skid.
• Roll off the throttle.
• When you get your speed down, move off to the roadside and coast to a stop.
Seized engine
There is usually some warning before your engine locks or freezes, giving you time to
respond. The first symptom may be a loss of engine power or a change in the engine’s
sound.
If the engine starts to seize:

• Pull the clutch in, disengaging the engine power from the rear wheel.
• Gradually apply the brakes and move off to the roadside.
• Turn off the ignition.
Let the engine cool and add oil or coolant if either is low.
Exiting the road in an emergency

When exiting the road in an emergency you should always ensure that your path is clear
and that you make your exit at an appropriate speed.
If you have to exit the road:

• Check the surface on the side of the road before you move onto it. Try to avoid riding
into mud or sand, and be careful of steep drop offs and the edge of bitumen.
• Check your mirrors and do a head check to make sure it’s safe to move off and indicate
to let other motorists know what you are doing.
• Stop away from the edge of the road. A motorcycle on the side of the road can be
difficult to see, so create some space to ensure you are not hit by a car.

Motorcycle crashes
Reduce crash consequences
You should always ride low risk to minimise the potential for being involved in a crash.
However, if a crash becomes inevitable there are some things you can do to help reduce
the consequences.
• Stay upright for as long as possible and reduce your speed. Tyres and brakes are
designed to stop your motorcycle, plastic and metal components on the side of your
motorcycle aren’t. Staying upright allows you to most effectively slow down — hitting
the ground at 30km/hr a bit further down the road is better than hitting it at 60km/hr.
• Keep control of your motorcycle for as long as possible and steer towards the least
hazardous area. Try to avoid a head on crash, sliding into an immovable object or
ending up in the path of oncoming traffic.
If you have fallen from your motorcycle:

• Try to relax and slide to reduce your risk of injury — sliding on your back, feet first is the
best position. Avoid tucking into a ball and tumbling as this will increase your risk of
broken bones. Wearing the right protective gear is vital in a crash.
• Let go of your motorcycle – it’s likely to travel further than you in a slide so holding on
will mean you also travel further.
Actions if first on the scene

If you are the first on the scene of a motorcycle crash there are some key actions you can
take to help those involved while keeping yourself safe.
• Assess the scene to make sure there are no sources of danger to yourself or others.
Look for fire, fallen power lines, petrol on the road and dangerous traffic conditions.
• Protect the scene by getting someone up-road and down-road to alert traffic (if people
are available), and establish a safety circle around the immediate crash site to direct
traffic and point out any hazards.
• Establish the seriousness of any injuries and apply first aid.
• If the rider is breathing leave their helmet on.
• Always assume a spinal injury and limit movement — only move them if they are in
immediate danger.
• Call for an ambulance and provide the details of the crash.

Returning riders
If you have not ridden for a period of time you can be at a greater crash risk due to a
potential reduction in your riding skills. If you are considering getting back on your
motorcycle after a break, take the time to familiarise yourself with your motorcycle and
rebuild your riding skills.
A lot may have changed since you last rode and to avoid injuring yourself or others, here
are some tips on how to make a safe return to riding.
Check your motorcycle

It may have been a while since you’ve ridden your motorcycle, so it’s important that you
check its condition. If you have any concerns regarding the condition or operation of
your motorcycle you should consult the owner’s manual or seek advice from a qualified
motorcycle mechanic.
New motorcycle
Motorcycles vary greatly in size, weight and performance. When purchasing a motorcycle
you should consider safety features, as well as whether it suits your needs and is
comfortable to ride.
New motorcycles are increasingly being fitted with safety features such as anti-lock
braking and electronic brake force distribution. Keep in mind that advancements in
technology can mean newer motorcycles operate differently and are more responsive than
older models. You may need to adjust your riding style.
If you purchase a new motorcycle take the time to familiarise yourself with its handling
and capabilities as this is critical to your safety when riding.

Check your gear
Protective gear can help prevent or reduce the severity of injuries. When returning to ride
remember to check your protective gear to ensure:
• There are no holes, rips or tears in the material.
• The seams are intact.
• There are no scratches, dents, loose padding or frayed straps on your helmet.
If it’s been a while you should consider updating your gear. Advancements in materials
and construction methods mean that new gear may provide better protection.
Check yourself
If you are considering returning to ride, you will need to reassess your skills. Start riding in
low risk situations. Be aware that when you return to riding you may experience tiredness
and discomfort from long stretches on your motorcycle. It’s a good idea to start off with
short journeys and make sure you take regular breaks. Take the time to rebuild your skills.
Think about doing a refresher or advanced safe riding course. Accredited rider trainers
offer tailored programs that allow you to practise riding skills and techniques, prior to
heading back out on the road.
Motorcycle registration
Motorcycles must be registered before they can be ridden on Queensland roads.
Registration supports the safety and security of Queensland’s road transport, allowing
common safety standards to be applied and enforced. Registration also enables
identification and management of registered operators, and provides an efficient system
to prevent the re-registration of stolen vehicles.
Registration fees provide essential funding for the development and maintenance of
our road network. Registration also includes the cost of Compulsory Third Party (CTP)
insurance, which covers the motorcycle owner and rider for legal liability arising from
personal injury to another person in the event of a crash. CTP does not cover property
damage.
For information about registering an unregistered motorcycle, or to check if your

motorcycle is registered visit www.qld.gov.au and search ‘registration check’. You can
also use the RegoCheck app to ensure that the registration is current.
If your motorcycle is unregistered or your registration has expired DO NOT ride your
motorcycle. You could be fined for using an unregistered vehicle, and if you are
involved in a crash you may not be insured.

Number plates
Your motorcycle must be fitted with an official number plate if you want to ride on
Queensland roads. The number plate must be:
• Issued by the Department of Transport and Main Roads.
• Mounted at the rear of the motorcycle, no more than 1.3 metres above ground level, in
an upright position parallel to the motorcycle’s axle.
• Able to be read clearly from 20 metres away at any point within a 45 degree arc of the
motorcycle’s centreline (see diagrams).
• Clean and in good condition.
• Free of any characteristic preventing it from being read
• Illuminated so it is clearly visible at night.
45°
45°
Number plate
Visible to 20m visible to 20m
Number plate
45°
It is an offence to:
• Alter a number plate in any way.
• Attach a number plate to any vehicle other than the one to which it is registered.
• Use a cover that is not flat, clear, clean and untinted.
• Have an obscured number plate.

Course
activities
Unique aspects of motorcycling
Discussion cards Motorcycle or car Notes on discussion points
Low petrol
consumption
Low running costs
Feeling of freedom
Vision of traffic
environment
Being seen by
others
Crash protection
Best cornering
performance
Stops quicker
Accelerates quicker
Transporting things
Reduce risk by
positioning
Fun

Making choices
Discussion cards My thoughts
‘The crash wasn’t
my fault, the car
in front stopped
suddenly.’
‘I’ve only had

one beer, it won’t
affect me.’
‘I want to be a safe
rider and I know
fatigue causes
crashes but I really
need to get home.’
‘My friends have

been riding for
years, and they ride
outside my comfort
zone, but I need to
keep up.’
‘They are facing a

stop sign, they have
to give way to me.’

Riding strategies
Risk Recognise Eliminate Reduce
factors and
situations
Night
Heavy or
congested
traffic
Inexperience
Bad weather
and poor
lighting
Unfamiliar
area
Group riding
Rural roads

Roadcraft tactics
Common motorcycle crashes
Loss of control (straight) Loss of control (curve)
Intersections Rear end
Sideswipe Hit pedestrian/animal/object

Mindmaps
Look
How can I reduce Slow down

the risk?
Move away
Notes

Look
How can I reduce Slow down

the risk?
Move away
Notes

Notes



Key sequences
Activity Components
Mounting Front brake — apply the front brake.
Head check — check around you.
Stand — retract the stand.
Dismounting Front brake — apply the front brake.
Head check — check around you.
Stand — put the stand down.
Starting up Mirrors — check around you.
Brakes — apply the rear brake.
Gears — pull the clutch in.
Shutting down Mirrors — check around you.
Brakes — apply the rear brake.
Gears — put the motorcycle in first gear.
Moving off Ready — adopt the ready position.
Set — hold friction point and fast idle.
Check — mirrors and head check.
Slowing down Mirrors — check around you.
Brakes — front then rear (set up, squeeze).
Gears — change down to first.
Turning Look — look ahead and plan your path.
Mirrors — check around you.
Turn your head — point your chin where you want to go.
Changing gears Mirrors — check around you.
Clutch — smoothly pull the clutch in.
Gears — select the appropriate gear.
Roadcraft tactics Look — look for hazards.
Slow down — prepare to stop for hazards.
Move away — create space from hazards.
Riding curves Look — look ahead and plan your path.
Slow down — mirrors, brakes, gears.
Move away — start wide, buffer, finish tight.
Steering Look — look in the direction of travel.
Push — push the handlebar in the direction of travel.
Go — move in the direction of travel.
Braking Mirrors — check around you.
Brakes — front then rear (set up, squeeze).
Gears — change down to first.

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Queensland

Motorcycle licensing in Queensland 2

Rules for riders 10

Motorcycle types, trailers and sidecars 21

Motorcycle controls and maintenance 24

Safety checks and maintenance 26

Managing problems while riding 56

Enjoy your riding, but above all, ride to survive.

Department of Transport and Main Roads, March 2022 1

Overview of the motorcycle licensing system

Motorcycle hazard perception test

Restricted (RE) course

RE provisional or open licence

Unrestricted (R) course

R provisional or open licence

2 Queensland Motorcycle Riders’ Guide

While learning to ride you must:

Department of Transport and Main Roads, March 2022 3

While riding with an RE provisional or open licence you must:

4 Queensland Motorcycle Riders’ Guide

R provisional or open licence

To learn to ride an R motorcycle or progress from an RE provisional or open licence

The type of R licence (provisional, probationary, or open) you get is determined

While riding with an R licence you must:

Training and testing requirements

To be eligible to take the test you must have:

Department of Transport and Main Roads, March 2022 5

Motorcycle Hazard Perception Test

6 Queensland Motorcycle Riders’ Guide

Restricted (RE) course

Unrestricted (R) course

Department of Transport and Main Roads, March 2022 7

Completing a Q-Ride course

8 Queensland Motorcycle Riders’ Guide

Q-SAFE riding tests

Department of Transport and Main Roads, March 2022 9

Your helmet must be correctly fitted and securely fastened.

10 Queensland Motorcycle Riders’ Guide

If you are a passenger in a sidecar you must:

Department of Transport and Main Roads, March 2022 11

You cannot lane filter:

You cannot edge filter:

Carrying an animal or a load

12 Queensland Motorcycle Riders’ Guide

Department of Transport and Main Roads, March 2022 13

Protection from the elements

Wearing the right gear can:

14 Queensland Motorcycle Riders’ Guide

There are two key types of helmets:

Your helmet should:

Department of Transport and Main Roads, March 2022 15

Some motorcycles have screens or fairings to provide

Your visor or goggles should:

At night you should use a clear visor or goggles.

Your gloves should:

16 Queensland Motorcycle Riders’ Guide

Your jacket should:

Your pants should: