Workshop manual

545RX, 545FR, 545FX, 545FXT,

545RX, 545RXT, 345FR
English
 Starter 1

Workshop Manual
Brushcutter, Trimmer
545RX, 545FR, 545FX, 545FXT, 545RX,
545RXT, 345FR

Contents
General recommendations ___________________ 2
1. Starter _________________________________ 3
2. Electrical system _________________________ 7
3. Fuel system ___________________________ 15
4. Centrifugal clutch _______________________ 31
5. Bevel gear ____________________________ 37
6. Cylinder and piston ______________________ 41
7. Crankshaft and crankcase ________________ 51
8. Tools _________________________________ 57
9. Technical data __________________________ 61

© Husqvarna AB, Sweden 2011

1
1 Starter

General recommendations
The workshop used to carry out repairs must be equipped
with safety devices in accordance with local directives. Fire risk
No one may carry out repairs without first having read and Handle fuel with respect as it is extremely inflammable.
understood the contents of this Workshop Manual. Never refuel while the engine is running.
The boxes below can be found in appropriate parts of this Do not smoke and ensure there are no open flames or sparks
manual. in the vicinity.
Never start the engine if the machine is leaking fuel or if there
WARNING! has been a spillage when refuelling. Allow the remaining fuel
The warning box warns of the risk for to evaporate first.
personal injury if the instructions are not Make sure there is a working fire extinguisher close at hand.
followed.
Do not try to extinguish a petrol fire with water.

NOTE!
Poisonous fumes
This box warns of damage to material if the instruc-
tions are not followed. When using cleaning agents read the instructions carefully.
Ensure there is good ventilation when handling petrol and
The machine is type approved for safety in accordance with other volatile fluids.
applicable legislative demands with the equipment specified The engine’s exhaust fumes are poisonous. Test run the
in the Operator’s Manual. The assembly of other equipment engine outdoors.
or accessories or spare parts not approved by Husqvarna can
result in the failure to meet these safety demands and that
the person carrying out assembly bears responsibility for this. Special tools
Some of the work described in this workshop manual re-
quires special tools. In each section where this is necessary
there is a picture of the tool and an order number.
Bear in mind:
We recommend the use of special tools in order to avoid ex-
pensive damage to parts in question and personal injury and
Do not start the machine without making sure the cut- to provide an efficient repair procedure.
ting attachment and all the safety features are fitted
and working properly.
Contact faces and gaskets
To avoid burns, do not touch hot components, e.g. the Ensure all surfaces are clean and free from gasket residue,
muffler before they have cooled sufficiently. etc. When cleaning use a tool that will not damage the con-
tact face. Any scratches or unevenness should be removed
Avoid getting fuel or oil on your skin or in your mouth. using a flat fine cut file.

Use a barrier cream on your hands. This reduces the

risk of infection and makes dirt easier to wash away. Sealing rings
Always replace a sealing ring that has been dismantled.
Long term contact with engine oil can represent a The sensitive sealing lip can easily be damaged resulting in
health hazard. inferior sealing capacity. Surfaces which the seal shall seal
against must also be completely undamaged. Lubricate the
Never start the engine indoors. Exhaust fumes are sealing lip with grease before it is fitted and ensure that it is
poisonous! They contain carbon monoxide, an odour- not damaged e.g. by shoulders and splines on a shaft. Use
less, poisonous and highly dangerous gas. tape or a conical sleeve as protection. It is important that
the sealing ring faces in the right direction for it to act as it is
Wipe up oil spills from the floor immediately to avoid intended.
slipping.
Do not use tools that are worn or fit badly, for example
on nuts and bolts.

+ Always work on a clean bench.

+ Always work logically to ensure all parts are fitted cor-

rectly and that nuts and bolts are tightened.

+ Use the special tools where recommended to be able

to carry out the work correctly and efficiently.

2
 Starter 1

Starter

Contents
Dismantling __________________________________ 4
Assembly ___________________________________ 5
Replacing the drive dogs _______________________ 6

3
1 Starter

! WARNING!
Protective glasses should be worn when working on the starter to avoid
injury to the eyes if, for some reason, the return spring should fly out.

Dismantling Dismantling
Remove the starter from the engine. Remove the 4 screws and lift off the star-
ter with the attached air guide plate.
The cylinder cover does not need to be
loosened or detached.
The screws are the so-called captive type
which means that they remain in place
when the starter is removed.
Snap off the air guide plate.

502 50 18-01

Loosen the spring tension. Loosen the spring tension.

Pull out the starter cord about 30 cm.
Brake the starter pulley with your thumb
and lift the cord as illustrated.
Let the starter pulley rotate backwards
slowly.

Remove the bolt in the centre of the star- Remove the bolt in the centre of the star-
ter pulley and remove the starter pulley. ter pulley.
Lift the starter pulley carefully from the
starter cover.

502 50 18-01

4
 Starter 1
Remove the spring cassette. Remove the two bolts holding the spring
cassette and remove the cassette for
replacement if necessary.

!
WARNING!
Wear protective glasses. The return spring can
fly out and cause personal injury if improperly
handled.

Assembly Assembly
Clean requisite parts and assemble in the Clean all components before assembly:
reverse order as set out for dismantling. Change return springs, starter pulley and
starter cord as needed.

NOTE!
Be careful when opening the packaging with the return spring so that the
spring does not fly out.

Attach the spring cassette. Attach the spring cassette and tighten the
Attach the starter pulley. two bolts (A).
Attach the new starter cord. Lubricate the bearing journal with a little
grease and attach the starter pulley.
Place the washer in place and tighten the
bolt.
Attach the new starter cord. Push it in to
the starter pulley’s track as illustrated and
then out through the cord guide in the
starter cover. Make sure that the knot at
502 50 18-01 the end of the cord is as small as possible!

NOTE!
New starter cords can be attached without dismantling the starter!

Anchor the cord in the starter handle. Thread the cord through the starter handle
and anchor it with a knot.
Fold down the free end and pull the knot
well into the handle.

5
1 Starter
Tighten the return spring. Tighten the return spring.
Check the spring tension. Lift up the starter cord when the return
Press the air guide plate on to the starter spring is completely loose and the cord
housing. pulled out completely.
Then turn the starter pulley anticlockwise
7 revolutions.
Check the spring tension. With the cord
completely pulled out the cord pulley
should be able to be turned at least an-
other half revolution.
Press the air guide plate on to the starter
housing.

Mount the starter onto the engine. Mount the starter onto the engine.
Pull out the starter cord a little.
Place the starter in position and release
the starter cord at the same time.
Check that the drive dogs grip the starter
pulley in the correct way.
Tighten the bolts.

502 50 18-01

Replacing the drive dogs Replacing the drive dogs

See chapter 2, Electrical system. See chapter 2, Electrical system.

6
 Electrical system 2

Electrical system

Contents
Checking the ignition spark _____________________ 8
Replacing the spark plug cover _________________ 10
Dismantling ________________________________ 10
Drive dogs _________________________________ 11
Assembly __________________________________ 12
Heated handles _____________________________ 12

7
2 Electrical system

The engine is equipped with an electronic ignition system completely without moving parts. Conse-
quently, a faulty component cannot be repaired, but must be replaced by a new component.
The spark in an electronic ignition system has a very short burn time and can therefore be inter-
preted as weak and can be difficult to see while troubleshooting.

Checking the ignition Checking the ignition

spark spark
Clean the electrodes and check the elec- Remove the spark plug and clean it from
trode gap. soot deposits with the help of a steel
brush.
Check the electrode gap. It should be 0.5
mm.
Adjust the gap as needed to the correct
value with the side electrode.

502 51 91-01

If the electrodes are worn more than 50% If the electrodes are worn more than 50%
the spark plug should be changed. the spark plug should be changed.
If the engine does not start or misfires Too large a spark gap entails a great deal
despite the spark plug showing no signs of of stress on the ignition module and risk
wear, try with a new spark plug. for short-circuiting.
If the engine does not start or misfires
despite the spark plug showing no signs of
wear, try with a new spark plug.

Earth the spark plug and check whether Earth the spark plug by connecting it
there is a spark when attempting to start. with a starter screw using a steel wire as
Test with test spark plug no. 502 71 13-01 if illustrated.
no spark is seen. Pull the starter handle sharply.
A spark should be seen between the
electrodes.
If no spark is seen test with test spark plug
no. 502 71 13-01.
If a spark then occurs, the spark plug is
faulty.

502 71 13-01

8
Electrical system 2
If no spark occurs even now, remove the If no spark occurs even now, remove the
short-circuit cable from the stop switch. short-circuit cable from the stop switch.
If the plug now sparks, the fault is either in The stop switch can be easily detached
the stop switch or the short-circuit cable. with a screwdriver.
Change the switch as needed and check Use a screwdriver pinch the switch’s snap
to see if the cable insulation is damaged. fastener inside the throttle.

NOTE!
The stop switch has a non locking
design and must be replaced with
one of the same type.

If the plug now sparks, the fault is either in

the stop switch or the short-circuit cable.
Change the switch as needed and check
to see if the cable insulation is damaged.

Still no spark? Still no spark?

Check the ignition cable’s connection to Check the spark plug connection.
the spark plug cover. Remove the spark plug cover and make
sure the ignition cable is not damaged.
Remove a segment of cable if required
to get sufficient contact at the connection
coil.
Tips!
Spray with silicone to make it easier to
remove the spark plug cover.

Still no spark? Still no spark?

Check other cables and connections. Check other cables and connections for
poor contacts (dirt, corrosion, cable brea-
kage and damaged insulation).
Make sure that the cables are correctly
drawn and lie in the cable grooves.
Do not forget to check the cables in the
throttle too.
See chapter 3 “Throttle”.
Tip!
Use an Ohmmeter in order to easily check
if cable breakage has occurred, due to
pinching, for example.

Still no spark? Still no spark?

Check the air gap. Dismantle the starter and air guide plate
(refer also to the “Starter” chapter).
Check the air gap between the flywheel
magnet and the ignition module. The gap
should be 0.3 mm.
Use a 502 51 34-02 feeler gauge.

0.3

502 51 34-02

9
2 Electrical system
Adjust the air gap. Adjust the air gap as needed to the correct
value.
• Loosen the bolts.
• Position the feeler gauge and press the
ignition module against the flywheel.
• Tighten the bolts and check the air gap
again.
If the spark plug still does not fire, the
ignition system should be replaced.

Replacing the spark plug Replacing the spark plug

cover cover
1. Insert the ignition cable through the 1. Lubricate the ignition cable with a little
spark plug cover. grease and thread it through the spark
2. Make a hole in the ignition cable for plug cover.
the ignition coil. 2. Cut off a bit of the ignition cable (ap-
prox. 5 mm) and make a hole in the
cable for the ignition coil with the aid of
a pair of no. 502 50 06-01 pliers.

502 50 06-01

3. Attach the ignition coil to the ignition 3. Attach the ignition coil to the igni-
cable. tion cable and ensure that the wire is
folded along the cable.
4. Slide the ignition coil into the spark
plug cover.
Tips!
Spray silicone into the spark plug cover to
facilitate assembly before sliding the cable
in place.

NOTE!
It is important that the tip of the ignition coil hits the centre of the ignition
cable to prevent sparking.

Dismantling Dismantling
Dismantle the starter, air guide plate, cy- Dismantle the starter, air guide plate, cy-
linder cover, muffler guard and the spark linder cover, muffler guard and the spark
plug. plug.
Attach piston stop no. 521 54 83-01. Fit piston stop no. 521 54 83-01 in the
spark plug hole.

NOTE!
Place the piston stop so it is
caught between the piston and the
cylinder head. Not so it sticks out
into the exhaust port.

521 54 83-01

10
 Electrical system 2
Remove the nut holding the flywheel. Remove the nut holding the flywheel.

Remove the flywheel. Remove the flywheel from the crankshaft

Remove any generator. using punch no. 502 51 94-01.
Leave a gap of approx. 2 mm between the
punch and the flywheel.
Gently knock the punch with a hammer
while holding the flywheel with your other
hand.
502 51 49-01 Heat the flywheel using a hot air gun if
necessary or use puller no 502 51 49-01.
If needed, dismantle the generator supply-
ing power to the heated handles.

502 51 94-01

Dismantle the ignition module. Dismantle the ignition module.

A
Remove the ignition cable from cable
channel (A).
B Remove both bolts (B).
Loosen the short-circuit cable (C) from the
ignition module.
Note the insulation sleeve (D) on the igni-
tion cable.
D

B
502 50 18-01

Drive dogs Drive dogs

Remove the bolts. The drive dogs can be easily replaced if
Remove the hooks and the springs to they are damaged.
replace them. Remove the bolts, the hooks and the
Mind the washer (A) so as not to lose it. springs.
Mind the washer (A) so as not to lose it.

502 50 18-01

11
2 Electrical system
Replace damaged parts. Replace damaged parts.
Assemble in the reverse order. Assemble in the reverse order.
Ensure that the recoil springs are in the
correct position.
Check that the hooks can be turned freely
when the bolts are tight.

502 50 18-01

Assembly Assembly
Assemble the alternator if necessary. Assemble the alternator if necessary.
Check the key groove in the crankshaft Check that the key groove in the crank-
and key in the flywheel. If damaged the shaft is not damaged. If it is, the crank-
components must be replaced. shaft must be replaced.
Fit the flywheel and then the ignition mo- Check that the key in the flywheel is not
dule. Check the air gap. damaged. If it is, the flywheel must be
replaced.
Attach the flywheel.
0.3
Attach the ignition module and make
sure the short-circuit cable is not trapped.
Check the air gap.

502 51 34-02

Heated handles
The heating element in the handles consists of ceramic plates. These are self-regulating
with regard to temperature. When temperature increases, the resistance in the elements
lowers and so does the temperature. So no separate thermostat is needed.

Remove the throttle from the handle. Remove the throttle from the handle.
In order to have access, the bolt that See also chapter 3 “Throttle”.
holds the throttle and the cover with the In order to remove the heating element
circuit breaker must be removed to reach the bolt (A) that holds the throttle and
the electrical cables. cover (B) and the heater switch must first
be removed (2 bolts).

502 50 18-01

The heating element in the throttle is ac- A heating element is placed in the throttle
cessed when the throttle lock is pushed lock for involuntary throttling. Press the
out of the throttle. locking catch from the throttle, making
Pry off the locking catch and lift out the sure not to lose the spring (A).
heating element. Pry off the locking catch (B) and lift out the
heating element (C).

NOTE!
Do not pry off the heating element
before the locking catch has been
removed. The element can be
damaged.

12
Electrical system 2
Separate the contacts (A-A) and (B-B). Separate the contacts (A-A) and (B-B).
Then extend the cables (A) and (B) with Then extend the cables (A) and (B) with
approx. 90 cm long steel wires attached to approx. 90 cm long steel wires attached to
the contacts. the contacts.
This is to make it easier to draw the
cables to the new heating element back
through the handle.
1 = black
2 = blue

Remove the bolt and pull off the left grip Remove the bolt that holds the left grip on
from the handle. the handle.
Pull one cable at a time from the handle. Pull out handle from the handlebars and
Remove the heating element from the then the cables, carefully and one at
handle with a pair of flat nosed pliers. a time, so that the steel wire does not
loosen from the cables.
The heating element is located in a pocket
in the outside of the handle.
Use flat nose pliers to pull out the heating
element from the handle.

NOTE!
Do not pull the cables or their
connections. Connections can be
easily broken.

Assemble in the reverse order as set out

for dismantling.
Wiring diagram
LH = Left handle
RH = Throttle
HC = Heater switch
TT = Triple contact
IM = Ignition module
SC = Short-circuit switch
Gen = Generator

Blu = blue
Bl = black
Re = red
Bl/Blu = black/blue

Use a universal tool when checking wiring

and heating elements. Set the instrument
to measure resistance to check for open
circuits.

13
2 Electrical system

14
 Fuel system 3

Fuel system

Contents
Air filter ___________________________________ 16
Tank venting _______________________________ 16
Fuel filter __________________________________ 17
Carburettor ________________________________ 18
Assembly __________________________________ 24
Carburettor settings __________________________ 25
Thumb throttle _____________________________ 27
Index finger throttle __________________________ 28
Trouble Shooting Guide ______________________ 30

15
3 Fuel system
In addition to the fuel tank and carburettor, the fuel system consists of the air filter, fuel filter and
tank venting.
All these components interact so that the engine receives the optimal mixture of fuel and air to
make it as efficient as possible. Very small deviations in the carburettor setting or a blocked air
filter have a large effect on the running and efficiency of the engine.
The carburettor can come from several different manufacturers on our models, but the function
and repair methods are essentially the same.

Air filter Air filter

Remove the air filter cover and lift off the Dismantle the cover (A) and remove the
air filter. air filter (B).
The filter is available in two versions, a
paper filter and a nylon weave filter.
The nylon filter comes in two models. The
standard filter has a mesh size of 44μ.
There is also a 80μ unit available.

Clean the air filter or replace it with a new

NOTE!
one.
A heavily soiled paper filter must be
replaced with a new one.

Paper filters are cleaned using com-

pressed air. Clean the nylon filter in tepid
soapy water or use cleaning agent 505
69 85-70 Active Cleaner. If the filter fabric
505 69 85-70 is damaged the entire filter should be
changed.

! WARNING!
Do not clean not the filter with petrol. Hazardous!

Tank venting Tank venting

Slide the fuel tank so far forward that the Slide the fuel tank so far forward that the
fuel hose can be removed. fuel hose (A) becomes accessible.
Slide the O-ring backward and remove the
hose from the nipple.
See also the “Centrifugal clutch” chapter if
required.

16
 Fuel system 3
Check that the tank venting valve works Tank venting takes place through the fuel
correctly. cap and needs to be functional for the
Replace the fuel cap if the valve is faulty. engine to work.
• Remove the cover over the fuel pump
and the fuel hose from the carburettor.
Drain the fuel from the tank.
• Connect the fuel hose to pressure tester
no. 531 03 06-23.
• Pump up a pressure in the tank. It must
not exceed 65 kPa (0.65 bar) before the
tank venting valve opens.
• Lower the pressure in the fuel tank. It
must not drop below –5 kPa (0.05 bar)
before the tank venting valve opens.
531 03 06-23

The fuel cap can be taken apart for clean-

ing.
Use a screwdriver and prise off the hous-
ing (A).
Remove the nipple (B) using a small flat
nosed pliers.
Blow the bleeding opening in the house
(A) clean with compressed air.
Blow clean both sintered filters (C) with
compressed air.
Assemble the fuel cap in reverse order as
set out for dismantling.
Make sure the gasket (D) is not damaged.

Fuel filter Fuel filter

The fuel filter can be removed through the The fuel hose in the tank contains a fuel
tank’s fill hole. filter. It is accessible through the fill hole.
Pull out the filter with your fingers or with
help of the 502 50 83-01 tool.

NOTE!
The fuel filter can get stuck under
the shaft bushing in the tank. Loosen
the filter using a long screwdriver.
Do not pull on the hose, since it can
easily be pulled from the filter.

502 50 83-01

Clean the outside of the filter if it is not too If the filter is not too dirty, its surface can
dirty. be cleaned with a brush.
Replace the filter if required. Otherwise it must be replaced.
Check the fuel hose for cracks and leaks.
Make sure that the filter’s connection neck
is inserted as far as possible into the fuel
hose and that the spring clamp is suf-
ficiently tight so that the filter cannot slide
off the hose.

17
3 Fuel system
Carburettor Carburettor
Dismantling Dismantling
Remove the cylinder cover, the air filter Remove the cylinder cover, the air filter
cover, the air filter and the small cover (B). cover and the air filter.
Remove the hoses (C and D). Remove the 4 screws (A) and lift off the
cover (B).
Remove the hoses (C and D).

Loosen the screws (A) and remove the Loosen the 4 screws (A). They do not
screws (B). have to be removed completely.
Lift off the entire carburettor cover. Remove both screws (B).
Lift off the entire carburettor cover.

502 50 18-01

Remove the fuel hoses (C and D) from the Prise off the fuel hoses (C and D) from the
carburettor. carburettor using a screwdriver.
Unhook the pressure rod (E) and remove Unhook the pressure rod (E) from the
the air supply valve (F). carburettor’s valve shaft and lift of the air
Remove the throttle cable (G) from the supply valve (F).
throttle valve shaft and lift off the carburet- Remove the throttle cable (G) from the
tor. throttle valve shaft and lift off the carburet-
tor.

The carburettor’s design The carburettor’s design

The carburettor can be divided into three The carburettor can be divided into three
different functional units: the metering unit, different functional units: the metering unit,
the blending unit, and the pump unit. the blending unit, and the pump unit.

The metering unit The metering unit

The needles and the fuel control functions The needles (A) and the fuel control func-
are located here. tions are located here.
The needle valve (B) and control dia-
phragm (C) are vital to the carburettor’s
function.

18
 Fuel system 3
The blending unit The blending unit
Fuel and air are mixed here. In this section of the carburettor fuel and
air are mixed in the proper proportions.
The choke and throttle valves are placed
here.
In the middle of the venturi (narrowest
part of the throughput) the main jet (D) is
found.

The pump unit The pump unit

Pumps fuel from the tank to the carburet- This is where the pump diaphragm (E)
tor. that pumps fuel from the tank to the carbu-
rettor’s measuring unit is found.
The diaphragm is affected by pressure
variations in the engine’s crankcase via an
impulse channel (F).
If the channel is blocked, by grease or
a wrongly facing gasket, for example,
the pump unit does not function and the
engine cannot be started.

Dismantling the carburettor Dismantling the carburettor

Remove the control diaphragm and check Remove the 4 screws (A) holding the con-
for damage. trol diaphragm cover and lift off the cover.
Replace if required. Carefully remove the control diaphragm
(B) and gasket (C).
Check the diaphragm for holes and wear
on the pin (D).
Replace the diaphragm if required.

19
3 Fuel system
Pressure test the metering unit. Connect pressure tester 531 03 06-23 to
the fuel hose nipple.
Lower the carburettor in a vessel with
petrol in order to discover any leaks more
easily.
Test the pressure at 50 kPa (0,5 bar).
No leakage is permitted.

531 03 06-23

In the event of leakage – remove the In the event of leakage – remove the
needle valve. needle valve.
Loosen the bolt and remove the lever arm,
axle, needle valve and spring.

Check the needle valve and the lever Check the needle valve for damage on the
arm for damage or wear. tip and in the lever arm groove.
Replace damaged components with Check the lever arm for damage to the
new ones. groove for the needle valve and wear on
the mounting points towards the control
diaphragm.
Replace damaged components with new
ones.

20
 Fuel system 3
Remove the pump diaphragm. Remove the bolt holding the cover over
Check the diaphragm for damage. the pump diaphragm.
Remove the fuel screen and clean it or Lift off the cover (A), the gasket (B) and
attach a new one. the diaphragm (C).
Check the diaphragm for damage to the
valve tongues. If the valve tongues are
bent, the pump will not function in a satis-
factory manner.
Hold it up to a light as well to discover any
holes in the material.
Carefully remove the fuel screen (D), us-
ing a needle for example. Clean or replace
the fuel screen.

NOTE!
During assembly the pump
diaphragm should lie closest
to the carburettor housing.

The carburettor’s jets (H) and (L) can only

be adjusted within a very limited area,
which is dependent on the sleeves (A).
Dismantle the jets with the help of tool 530
03 55-60. The sleeves are similar to each
other, but note how they are placed in the
carburettor housing.

530 03 55-60

Remove the main jet. Press out the main jet with a suitable
punch.

21
3 Fuel system
Check valves and dampers for wear. Remove the valves and dampers. If these
Replace if required. components are worn, idling is disrupted.
Always replace the valves and dampers at
the same time.

Assembling the carburettor Assembling the carburettor

Blow the carburettor housing clean. • Blow all channels in the carburettor
Fit a new main jet. compartment clean.
• Press a new main jet in place using a
punch until the edge of the jet lies flush
with the recessed area in the carburet-
tor (also refer to illustration above on
dismantling of main jet).

22
 Fuel system 3
• Mount the valves and dampers.
Tip!
Any numbers on the valves should be able
to be read from the outside.

Replace the fuel screen (A) if damaged or

if it cannot be cleaned.
Place the pump diaphragm (B) closest to
the carburettor housing. Then the gasket
and cover and the other components in
reverse order of removal.

NOTE!
Tension the return spring (C) on the
choke-shutter spindle sufficiently.
Otherwise the pawl for the start
throttle setting will not work as
intended.

NOTE!
Check that the valves are turned
correctly and that they close
completely and tightly in the closed
position.
Use Loctite on the valve screws.

Attach the various parts of the measur- Attach the various parts of the measuring
ing unit in the reverse order as set out for unit in the reverse order as set out for
dismantling. dismantling.
Check that the lever arm lies flush with the
carburettor housing.
Too high setting = too much fuel.
Too low setting = too little fuel.

23
3 Fuel system
Check that the carburettor is sealed. Connect pressure tester 531 03 06-23 to
No leakage is permitted at 50 kPa. the fuel intake on the carburettor.
Pump up the pressure to 50 kPa.
Lower the carburettor in a vessel with
petrol in order to discover any leaks more
easily.
No leakage is permitted.

531 03 06-23

Attach the control diaphragm and cover. Place the gasket on the carburettor hous-
ing and then the control diaphragm.
Check that the air hole in the cover is
open and screw the cover on.

Assemble the jets (H) and (L).

Place the sleeve (A) and the spring (B) on
the jets and slide the components into the
carburettor housing. Note that the cut-out
in the sleeve should be turned to face the
bar in the carburettor housing. Use tool
530 03 55-06 to press in the sleeve and
screw in the jet.
When the sleeve has been pressed in
using the tool, the jet can be adjusted
freely.
Carefully screw the jet until it bottoms and
then screw it outwards.
This applies to both jets.
The default setting is:
H =1.1 turns open
L = 0.9 turns open

530 03 55-06

Assembly Assembly
Connect the fuel hoses (A and B), the con- Connect the following:
necting rod (C) and the throttle cable (D). 1. The fuel hoses (A and B).
2. The connecting rod (C).
3. The throttle cable (D).

24
 Fuel system 3
Fit the carburettor cover to the carburettor. 4. Insert the 4 screws (A) in the carburet-
Check that the choke and the throttle tor cover.
valves are working. 5. Check that the choke valve in the car-
burettor and the choke control in the
cover are both open.
6. Slide the cover in place on the carbu-
rettor and tighten screws (A and B).
7. Check that the choke and throttle
valves open and close as intended.

502 50 18-01

Put the air hoses (C and D) in place and 8. Place the hoses (C and D) on the
screw the cover (B) tight. carburettor and the air supply valve.
Put the air filter in place and snap on the 9. Screw the cover (B) tight.
air filter cover. 10. Put the air filter in place and snap on
the air filter cover.

Carburettor settings

! WARNING!
When testing the engine in connection with carburettor adjustment,
the clutch and clutch cover must be mounted together with the shaft
and angle gear under all circumstances
HL Otherwise there is a risk of the clutch becoming loose resulting in
serious personal injury.

T Function
The carburettor has the task of supplying a combustible fuel/air mixture to the cylinder.
The amount of this mixture is controlled by the throttle.
The mixture’s composition of fuel and air is controlled by means of the adjustable “H”
and “L” needles.

The needles must be correctly adjusted in order for the engine to give maximum power
at different speeds, run steadily while idling and to react quickly when accelerating.
The setting of the carburettor can vary a little depending on the humidity, temperature
and air pressure.
L = Low speed needle
H = High speed needle
T = Idle adjustment screw
• The fuel quantity in relation to the air flow permitted by the throttle opening is adjust-
ed by the L and H jets. Turning the needles clockwise gives a leaner fuel mixture (less
fuel) and turning them anticlockwise gives a richer fuel mixture (more fuel). A leaner
mixture gives higher revs while a richer mixture gives less revs.
• The T-screw regulates the position of the throttle while the engine is idling. Turning
the screw clockwise gives a higher idling speed while turning it anticlockwise gives a
lower idling speed.

25
3 Fuel system
Basic setting
The carburettor is set to its basic setting when test run at the factory. The basic setting is
“richer” than the optimal setting (fast idle speed is 600–800 rpm under the recommend-
ed max. speed) and should be kept during the engine’s first working hours. Thereafter
the carburettor should be fine tuned.
The default setting is:
H = 1.1 revolution open
L = 0.9 revolution open

Fine adjustment
Fine adjustment of the carburettor should be carried out after the engine has been “run-
in”.
• The air filter should be clean and the cylinder cover fitted when all adjustments are
made.
First adjust the L-needle, then the H-needle and finally the idling speed’s T-screw.
Idling speed = 2,800 rpm.
• Since the ignition system is limited in terms of rpm, the pre-programmed fast idle
speed (12,000 – 13,000 rpm) cannot be exceeded even if the H-needle is screwed
inwards. The risk in this case is still that the engine breaks down as a result of a too
lean fuel/air mix.
• At full throttle, the H-needle shall have a setting so that the engine is almost splut-
ters.

Use the 502 71 14-01 tachometer to

check the speed. NOTE!
• Carefully screw in (clockwise) A tachometer should always be used to find the optimal
the L- and H-jets until they bot- setting.
tom. Now unscrew (anti-clockwi- The recommended max. speed must not be exceeded.
502 71 14-01 se) the jets to the default setting.
Use tool 530 03 55-60.
• Start the engine and run warm Idling speed T-screw
for 5 minutes. Let the engine idle for about 30 seconds or until the speed has
stabilised. Adjust the idling speed T-screw until the engine idles
without stopping.
• Turn the screw clockwise if the engine stops.
530 03 55-60 • Turn the screw anticlockwise to lower the speed.

Correctly adjusted carburettor

A correctly adjusted carburettor means that the engine acceler-
ates without hesitation and it “splatters” a little at full throttle.
501 60 02-03 • A too lean adjusted L-needle can cause starting difficulties
and poor acceleration.
• A too lean adjusted H-needle results in lower power, poor ac-
celeration and/or damage to the engine.
• A too rich setting of the “L” and “H” needles give acceleration
problems or a too low working speed.

NOTE!
If the cutting equipment rotates while idling the T-screw
should be turned anticlockwise until it stops.

26
 Fuel system 3
Setting the L jet Setting the H jet
1. Fit the trimmer head T45 and use 2.7 mm plain cord. The 1. Fit the trimmer head T45 and use 2.7 mm plain cord. The
cord length should be as standard, i.e. reach the knife on the cord length should be as standard, i.e. reach the knife on
trimmer guard. the trimmer guard.
2. Run the engine warm for about 5 minutes. 2. Run the engine warm for about 5 minutes.
3. Adjust the L jet using a standard screwdriver anticlockwise 3. Adjust the H jet using a standard screwdriver anticlock-
against the stop (rich setting). wise against the stop.
4. Now use the special screwdriver art. no. 530 03 55-60. Press 4. Now use the special screwdriver art. no. 530 03 55-60.
in the locking sleeve on the L jet. The L jet can now be ad- Press in the locking sleeve on the H jet. The H jet can
justed without the locking sleeve turning as well. now be adjusted without the locking sleeve turning as
Adjust the L jet so that the engine reaches its highest speed. well.
The L-jet is then turned a 1/2 turn anticlockwise. Now release Adjust the H jet so that the engine exactly goes from
the locking sleeve back to its home position. 4-stroking to 2-stroking.
The L jet is now correctly adjusted and the locking sleeve Now release the locking sleeve back to its home position.
remains anticlockwise against the stop. The H jet is now correctly adjusted and the locking sleeve
5. If the speed exceeds 3,700 rpm, reduce it with the aid of the remains anticlockwise against the stop.
idling speed’s T-screw (T) and make a new adjustment in ac-
NOTE!
cordance with point 4.
If the cutting equipment rotates while idling the
6. Now adjust the idling speed to 2,800 rpm by turning the T-
T-screw should be turned anticlockwise until it
screw.
stops rotating.

Thumb throttle Thumb throttle

Dismantle the cable protector (C). Remove the screws (A) and (B).
Lift off the cable protector (C) to facilitate
the following work on the throttle.

502 50 18-01

Remove the three screws and carefully Remove the three screws and carefully
separate the two halves of the throttle. separate the two halves of the throttle.
Do not lose the nut held in the nut pocket
for the screw at the rear.

502 50 18-01

27
3 Fuel system
Check for wear on pins (A) and (B).
Replace the throttle control (C) and lever
arm (D) if necessary.
Check that the cables are properly
pressed into the cut-outs (E) and that the
throttle cable (F) is in the right groove.
If necessary, attach it with silicon adhesive
in order to facilitate assembly.
Check that the protective bellows (G) are
whole and that they are correctly mounted
over the ball on the cable.
G

Index finger throttle Index finger throttle

Remove the bolt (A) and remove the throt- Remove the bolt (A) that attaches the
tle from the handle. throttle to the handle.
Remove bolts (B) and (C). Be careful not to lose the nut.
Separate the halves of the throttle. Remove the throttle and remove bolts (B)
and (C).
Carefully separate the two halves of the
throttle.

28
Fuel system 3
Dismantle the throttle handle (A), the lock
to prevent accidental throttle operation
(B), the start throttle lock (C) and the th-
rottle stop (D) in order to check if replace-
ment is necessary.
The stop switch can also be disassem-
bled now, and replaced if necessary. Use
a screwdriver to press the stop switch’s
wing locks (E).

Tip!
Reassembly of the throttle easier if a thin
steel wire is wrapped around the handle
and bolt (F) in order to hold the throttle
cable and short-circuit cables in place.

29
3 Fuel system

Trouble Shooting Guide

Symptom Starting Low speed Acceleration/

speed
High
Deceleration

Poor performance at high speed

Engine stops when decelerating
Difficult to prime when starting

Engine does not accelerate

Poor acceleration capacity

Idling does not stabilise
Flooding, fuel leakage

Engine does not idle

Stops when idling

Idles too slowly
Difficult to start
Probable causes

Stop screw for the throttle not working ● ● ● ●

Fuel tank/hose Fuel filter blocked ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

The fuel hose blocked ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Air in fuel ducts ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Incorrect/poor fuel ● ● ●

Pump diaphragm Vacuum pulse leakage ● ●

Vacuum pulse duct blocked ● ●

Loose screw(s) on the pump cover ● ● ●

Faulty pump diaphragm ● ● ●

Flow bellows Flow bellows damaged ●

The needle valve faulty ● ● ● ● ● ●

Carburettor is not fitted correctly ● ● ● ●

Faulty heat insulation seal ● ● ● ●

Needle valve’s lever Lever arm damaged ● ● ● ● ●

Lever arm too high ● ● ● ●

Lever arm too low ●

Lever arm does not work correctly ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Needle valve’s spring The spring is deformed ● ● ●

The spring is not fitted correctly ● ● ● ●

Control diaphragm Diaphragm is damaged ● ● ● ● ● ●

Faulty seal ● ● ● ●

Needle valve Valve jams ● ● ●

Valve worn ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Foreign object in the valve guide ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

30
 Centrifugal clutch 4

Centrifugal clutch

Contents
Dismantling ________________________________ 32
Assembly _________________________________ 34
Clutch drum
Dismantling _____________________________ 34
Assembly _______________________________ 36

31
4 Centrifugal clutch

The centrifugal clutch has the task of transferring the power from the engine to the cutting equip-
ment’s drive axle. As the name implies, it works according to a centrifugal principle.
This means the clutch’s friction shoes are thrown outwards towards the clutch drum at a certain
engine speed. When the friction against the drum is sufficiently great it drives the drive shaft at the
same speed as the engine.
Some slipping occurs between the clutch and the clutch drum when accelerating as well as in the
reversed situation when the cutting equipment jams. Thereby preventing abnormal load changes
on the crankshaft.
The engagement speed has been carefully tested so that the engine can idle without the cutting
equipment’s drive shaft rotating.

Dismantling Dismantling
Loosen the fuel hoses from the carburettor The clutch is located between the fuel
and the fuel pump. tank and the engine.
In order to be accessible, the tank and
handle holder must be moved forward on
the shaft.
1. Remove the cable protector (A).
2. Loosen the screws (B).
3. Loosen the handle with the wing nut
(C).
4. Slide the fuel tank and handlebar
mount forward on the shaft.

502 50 18-01

Slide the fuel tank and handlebar mount 1. Remove the cable protector (A).
forward on the shaft. 2. Loosen the screw (B).
3. Loosen the handle with the wing nut
(C).
4. Slide the fuel tank and handlebar
mount forward on the shaft.

502 50 18-01 502 50 64-01

Remove the fuel hoses. 5. Remove the fuel hoses from the tank
(A) and from the carburettor (B).

32
Centrifugal clutch 4
Remove the vibration dampers. Remove the vibration dampers.
Remove the 4 screws holding the clutch Remove the 4 screws holding the clutch
cover and lift the engine body to the side. cover on the engine.
Lift the engine body to the side so that the
clutch becomes accessible.

502 21 58-01

Dismantle the clutch from the crankshaft. Replace the spark plug with piston stop
no. 521 54 83-01.
Unscrew the clutch from the crankshaft.

521 54 83-01

Remove the 3 bolts and separate the Fix the clutch in a vice and remove the 3
clutch. bolts.
Lift off the front cover plate and the clutch
shoes.

NOTE!
Do not lose the sleeve bearings
found in the clutch shoes.

Twist apart the clutch. Twist apart the clutch.

33
4 Centrifugal clutch
Clean and inspect the different parts with Clean and inspect the different parts with
regard to wear or other damage. regard to wear or other damage.
Wear on the clutch shoes must not be
greater than shown in the illustration.
Check the play in the sleeve bearings
in the clutch shoes and the wear on the
springs by the fastening hooks.

Assembly Assembly
Temporarily place the clutch shoes on the Temporarily place the clutch shoes on the
clutch hub and loosely tighten the screws. clutch hub and loosely tighten the screws.
Pry out the shoes and hook one spring to Pry out the shoes and hook one spring
each shoe from underneath. into the cut-out in each shoe from under-
neath.

Insert the clutch shoes as far as possible

and hook the springs to the adjacent
clutch shoe from above as shown in the
detailed figure.
Use a small screwdriver or flat-nosed
pliers.

NOTE!
Make sure that the spring eye is
pressed into the correct position.

Remove the screws and put the cover

plates in position.
Tighten the bolts, fit the clutch to the
crankshaft and the remaining parts in the
reverse order as set out for dismantling.

Clutch drum Clutch drum

Dismantling Dismantling
Dismantle the clutch cover with clutch Separate the engine body and shaft as
drum from the shaft. described previously.
1. Loosen the screws (A) holding the
clutch cover against the shaft.
2. Pull away the clutch cover with the
clutch drum and the drive axle from
the shaft.

502 50 18-01

34
Centrifugal clutch 4
Remove the clutch drum from the drive Remove the clutch drum from the drive
axle axle.
The drum is tightly screwed to the drive
axle.
Hold the drive axle in a vice and unscrew
the clutch drum using the 502 52 16-02
tool.

502 52 16-02

Dismantle the circlip. Remove the circlip holding the ball bearing
in place in the clutch housing by using
circlip pliers.

Heat the clutch housing and remove the Heat the clutch housing to approx. 110 °C
bearing. using a hot air gun
Knock the clutch housing against a woo-
den block so that the bearing falls out.

Check the clutch drum with regard to wear Check the clutch drum with regard to wear
and damage. and damage.
The diameter must not exceed 70.5 mm. If
this is the case, replace the drum.

35
4 Centrifugal clutch
Assembly Assembly
Assemble the bearing in the clutch hou- 1. Heat the clutch housing to approx. 110
sing. °C using a hot air gun.
2. Insert the bearing into position in the
clutch housing and fit the circlip (G).

Fit the clutch drum to the drive axle. 3. Slide the clutch drum into the ball
bearing.
4. Screw the drive axle tightly onto the
clutch drum.

Fit the clutch cover on the shaft. 5. Lubricate the drive axle with grease
and slide it on the shaft.

NOTE!
There should be no signs of grease
in the clamping joint for the shaft
and clutch cover.
Clean the surfaces using a
degreasing agent.

6. Screw the clutch cover tightly on the

shaft.

505 69 85-70

36
 Angle gear 5

Angle gear

Contents
Dismantling ________________________________ 38
Assembly __________________________________ 39
Shaft _____________________________________ 40

37
5 Angle gear

The angle gear has two purposes:

The first is to gear down the engine’s high speed to better suit the lower speed a saw blade or
trimmer requires to work efficiently.
Second, the angle gear contributes to the saw operator’s working stance so that it is comfortable
and at the same time efficient. The power from the engine, via the drive axle, shall in other words be
angled so that the cutting equipment works parallel to the ground.

Dismantling Dismantling
Remove the cutting equipment and guard. First remove the cutting equipment (saw
Remove the splash guard. blade, trimmer etc.).
Remove the screws holding the plate (D) Remove the screw (A) and lift off the
and the bevel gear. splash guard (B).
Remove the angle gear from the shaft. Remove both screws (C) and lift off the
plate (D).
Remove the angle gear from the shaft.

Remove the circlip and plate washer on Remove the circlip on the output axle us-
the output shaft. ing circlip pliers.
Lift off the washer from the sealing ring.

Remove the large circlip from the input Remove the large circlip from the input
axle. axle.

NOTE!
Let the small circlip around the axle
remain.

38
 Angle gear 5
Remove the lubricant top-up plug. Remove the lubricant top-up plug and
Warm the gearbox and knock it against a warm the entire gearbox using a hot air
wooden block so that the input axle falls gun to about 150°C.
out. Knock the gearbox against a wooden
block so that the input axle and bearing
fall out.

NOTE!
The input axle with pinion must be
dismantled first.

Remove the output axle. Then remove the output axle and bear-
ings, while the gearbox is still warm.
Use puller no. 502 50 65-01.

502 50 65-01

Assembly
Replace damaged parts.
Assemble the angle gear in the reverse
order as set out for dismantling.
Fit the bearings on their respective axles.
It is easier if the bearings are heated to
approx. 100°C.

NOTE!
Do not forget the circlip holding the
bearing on the input axle. Make sure
the bearings bottom in their seats.

Heat the gearbox to approx. 150°C and

first lift the output axle in position and then
the input axle. Make sure the bearings
bottom in their seats.
Mount the circlips and make sure they lie
correctly in their grooves.
Rotate the axles and check that they
rotate easily without a tendency for the
cogwheels to seize.
Fill the gearbox with special grease no.
503 97 64-01. Wipe any excess grease
from the joint between the shaft and the
angle gear before the gear is fitted to pre-
vent it from turning around the shaft.
503 97 64-01

39
5 Angle gear
Shaft Shaft
Prise off the plastic sleeve and the O-ring. Prise away the plastic sleeve (A) and the
When fitting, a new O-ring must be used. O-ring (B) using a knife.
Place the plastic sleeve in position in the When fitting, a new O-ring must be used.
gear housing and slide the O-ring on to To avoid damage from the sharp edges of
the sleeve. the slits in the gear housing, the following
assembly procedure is recommended:
Slide the shaft into position.
1. Place the plastic sleeve (A) in position
Lubricate the drive axle with grease no.
in the gear housing.
503 80 17-01 when assembling.
2. Slide the O-ring (B) onto the plastic
sleeve.
3. Slide the shaft into position.
Lubricate the drive axle with grease no.
503 80 17-01 when assembling.

503 80 17-01

40
 Cylinder and piston 6

Cylinder and piston

Contents
Dismantling ________________________________ 42
Decompression valve ________________________ 43
Cleaning, inspection _________________________ 43
Assembly _________________________________ 44
Analysis and actions _________________________ 45
Service tips ________________________________ 49
Wear tolerances ____________________________ 49

41
6 Cylinder and piston

The cylinder and the piston are two of the components exposed to most strain in the engine. They
must withstand, for example, high speeds, large temperature swings and high pressure. Moreover,
they must be resistant to wear. Despite these tough working conditions, major piston and cylinder
failure is relatively uncommon. The reasons for this include new coatings in the cylinder bore, new
types of oil and grease and refined manufacturing techniques.
When servicing these components, cleanliness is of the utmost importance. It is therefore recom-
mended that the cylinder and the area around it be thoroughly cleaned before being dismantled
from the crankcase.

Dismantling
Dismantle the following components to remove the cylinder:
Starter, cylinder cover, muffler guard, muffler, spark plug, flywheel, start valve, carburet-
tor (with air filter and covers), air supply valve. See separate sections in the manual.
Remove the cable (A) from the cable duct and separate the contacts.
Pry out the plastic bushes (B) with fuel hoses in the direction of the arrow.

Remove the screw (C) and lift off the throttle cable bracket
and the short-circuit cable.
Press the catches (D) to one side and remove the air guide
plate (E).

502 50 18-01

Then loosen the 4 bolts holding the cylinder.

Carefully remove the cylinder lifting straight upwards. Make sure that no dirt enters the
crankcase. Make sure that no dirt enters the crankcase.
Use a rag to cover the crankcase opening under the piston.

502 50 18-01

Remove one of the circlips from the gudg- Use a long nosed pliers to remove one of
eon pin. the circlips from the gudgeon pin (there is
no need to remove the other).
Keep your thumb over the circlip to pre-
vent it from flying out.

42
Cylinder and piston 6
Dismantle the piston. Push the gudgeon pin from the piston us-
ing punch 505 38 17-05.
If the pin is too tight, carefully warm the
piston.

505 38 17-05

Decompression valve Decompression valve

Clean the decompression valve and Clean the decompression valve using a
check that the valve head is not damaged wire brush. Clean in white spirit or thinner
(burnt) and that the valve operates easily. and blow dry with compressed air.
If necessary, grind the valve with fine- Check that the hole (A) is not clogged.
grained valve grinding compound. Check that the valve moves easily in the
guide and that the valve head is not dam-
aged (burnt).
If necessary, grind the valve into the seat
using fine-grained valve grinding com-
pound.
Tip!
Use washer no. 502 54 11-01 as a
502 54 11-01 friction lining against the valve head
when grinding.
Cleaning, inspection
After dismantling, clean the individual components:
1. Scrape carbon deposits from the top of the piston.
2. Scrape carbon deposits from the cylinder’s combustion chamber.
3. Scrape carbon deposits from the cylinder’s exhaust port.

NOTE!
Scrape carefully with not too sharp a tool so as not to damage the soft
aluminium parts.

4. Wash all the components.

5. Inspect the different components for damage and wear.
Check the piston and cylinder for seizure damage and wear.
Also see the “Analysis and actions” section.
Check the piston ring for wear and damage.
Also see the “Analysis and actions” section.
Check the gudgeon pin.
– If it has blued, it must be replaced.
– If the piston moves too easily both the piston and the gudgeon pin must be replaced.
Check the needle bearing. If it is discoloured or damaged, it must be replaced.
Check the circlips. If they exhibit cracks or are discoloured (caused by overheating),
they must be replaced.

43
6 Cylinder and piston
Assembly Assembly
Lubricate the gudgeon pin’s needle bear- Lubricate the gudgeon pin’s needle bear-
ing with a few drops of engine oil and fit ing with a few drops of engine oil.
the piston. Direct the arrow on the top of the piston
towards the exhaust port.
Press in the gudgeon pin and fit the circlip.

NOTE!
Place a rag in the crankcase opening to prevent the circlip from falling into
the crankcase in case it should fly out.
Check that the circlip is correctly fitted into the groove by turning it with a flat
nosed pliers.

Use a new gasket and fit the cylinder. Place a new cylinder base gasket on the
Assemble the other parts. cylinder or the crankcase.
Insert the screws in the holes at the base
of the cylinder.
Lubricate the piston with a few drops of
engine oil and fit the cylinder using a suit-
able piston ring compressor from the 502
50 70-01 assembly kit.
Screw the cylinder into place.
Assemble the carburettor and the other
parts in the reverse order as set out for
dismantling.

502 50 70-01

44
 Cylinder and piston 6
Analysis and actions
Experience tells us that piston or cylinder failure due to manufacturing errors are ex-
tremely rare.
The reason is usually due to other factors, which is evident from the following.
Note the reasons for the breakdown, repair the damage and take the actions required to
prevent the same thing happening again.

Insufficient lubrication
The piston has small to medium size score marks usually in front of the exhaust port. In
extreme cases heat development can be so great that material from the piston smears
along the piston skirt and even in the cylinder bore.
Generally the piston ring is undamaged and moves freely in the ring groove
There can also be scores on the inlet side of the piston.
Small to medium size scores primarily in the
middle of the exhaust port. Cause: Action:
• Incorrect carburettor setting. Recom- Check and change the carburettor setting.
mended max. speed exceeded.
• Incorrect oil mixture in the fuel. Change the fuel.
• Too low octane fuel. Change to a higher octane petrol.

The piston ring starts to stick or is completely stuck in its groove and has therefore not
been able to seal against the cylinder wall, which has resulted in further, intensive tem-
perature increases in the piston
Seizure scores along the entire piston skirt on the inlet and exhaust sides.

Cause: Action:
• Incorrect oil mixture in the fuel. Change to a fuel with the correct oil mix-
ture.
• Too low octane fuel. Change to a higher octane petrol.
• Air leaks. Replace damaged parts.
Cracked fuel hose.
Leaking inlet gaskets.
Cracked distance piece or inlet
manifold.
• Air leakage in engine body. Replace leaking gaskets and shaft seals.
Leaking crankshaft seals.
Medium to deep scores along the entire Leaking cylinder and crankcase
piston skirt on the exhaust side. gaskets.
• Poor maintenance. Clean the cooling fins and air intake.
Dirty cooling fins on the cylinder.
Blocked air intake on the starter.
Blocked spark arrestor mesh in Clean or replace the spark arrestor mesh.
the muffler.

For the best results we recommend Husqvarna two-stroke oil or ready-mixed fuel that is
specially developed for air-cooled two-stroke engines.
Mixing ratio: 1:50 (2%).
If Husqvarna two-stroke oil is not available another good quality two-stroke oil can be
used.
Mixing ratio: 1:33 (3%) or 1:25 (4%).

45
6 Cylinder and piston
Piston scoring caused by heavy carbon deposits
Too heavy carbon depositing can cause damage similar to that caused by insufficient
lubrication. However, the piston skirt has a darker colour caused by the hot combustion
gases that are blown past the piston.
This type of piston damage starts at the exhaust port where carbon deposits can be-
come loose and get trapped between the piston and the cylinder wall.

Typical for this type of piston damage is brown or black discoloration of the piston skirt.

Cause: Action:
• Wrong type of two-stroke oil or petrol. Change the fuel.
• Incorrect oil mixture in the petrol. Change to a fuel with the correct oil mix-
ture.

Medium to deep scores on the exhaust side. • Incorrect carburettor setting. Correct the carburettor setting
The piston ring is stuck in the groove.
Black discoloration under the piston ring
due to blow-by.

Piston damage caused by a too high engine speed.

Typical damage associated with a too high engine speed includes broken piston rings,
broken circlip on the gudgeon pin, faulty bearings or that the guide pin for the piston ring
has become loose.

Piston ring breakage

A too “lean” carburettor setting results in a too high speed and a high piston tempera-
ture. If the piston temperature rises above the normal working temperature the piston
ring can seize in its groove, consequently it will not sit deep enough in its groove. The
edges of the piston ring can then hit the top edge of the exhaust port and be smashed
and also cause piston damage.
A too high engine speed can also cause rapid wear to the piston ring and play in the pis-
ton ring groove primarily in front of the exhaust port. The ring is weakened by the wear
and can be caught in the port causing serious piston damage.

Exhaust side damaged by a broken piston

ring. The piston ring parts damage the top
section and cause score marks.

46
 Cylinder and piston 6

The guide pin for the piston ring has been Deep, irregular grooves caused by a loose Irregular grooves on the piston’s inlet side
pushed up through the top of piston. circlip. Shown here on the piston’s inlet side. caused by a broken roller retainer.

Piston ring guide pin Damage caused by Bearing failure

vibrated loose gudgeon pin circlips Failure of the crankshaft bearing or on the
A too high engine speed can cause the A too high engine speed can cause the connecting rod bearing is usually caused
ends of the piston ring to hammer against gudgeon pin circlips to vibrate. The circlips by a too high engine speed, resulting in the
the guide pin when the piston ring moves are drawn out of their grooves due to the bearing being overloaded or overheating.
in its groove. The intensive hammering vibrations, which in turn reduces the cir- This in turn can cause the bearing rollers
can drive out the pin through the top of the clips’ tensioning power. The rings can then or ball to glide instead of rotate, which can
piston causing serious damage also to the become loose and damage the piston. cause the roller or ball retainer to break.
cylinder. The broken debris can be trapped between
the piston and cylinder wall, damaging the
piston skirt.
Debris can also pass up through the cylin-
der’s transfer channels and cause damage
to the top and sides of the piston as well
as to the cylinder’s combustion chamber.

Foreign objects
Everything other than clean air and pure fuel that enters the engine’s inlet port causes
some type of abnormal wear or damage to the cylinder and piston.
This type of increased wear shows on the piston’s inlet side starting at the lower edge of
the piston skirt.
The damage is caused by badly filtered air that passes through the carburettor and into
the engine.

Small score marks and a matt, grey surface

on the piston’s inlet side caused by fine
dust particles.

47
6 Cylinder and piston
Cause: Action:
• Faulty air filter. Small dust particles Fit a finer grade filter.
pass through the filter.
• The filter is worn out due to too Check the filter carefully for holes and
much cleaning, whereby small holes damage after cleaning. Replace the filter
have appeared in the material. if necessary.
• Unsuitable filter maintenance, such Clean more carefully and use the right
as wrong method or wrong cleaning cleaning agent (such as tepid soapy
agent. Flock material becomes loose water).
and holes appear. Change the filter.
• Air filter incorrectly fitted. Fit the filter correctly.
• Air filter damaged or missing. Fit a new air filter.

Inlet side.
Particles of dust and dirt from carbon-like
deposits on the top of the piston and in
the piston ring groove. The piston ring sits
firmly in the groove. Piston material has
been worn away.
The lower part of the piston skirt is thinner
on the inlet side than on the exhaust side.

Larger, softer particles that penetrate into the engine cause damage to the piston
skirt under the piston ring as the illustration shows.
Cause: Action:
• Air filter incorrectly fitted. Fit the air filter correctly.
• Air filter damaged or missing. Fit a new air filter.

The piston scored and worn from the piston

ring down on the inlet side.

Larger, harder particles that enter the engine cause serious damage to the under-
side of the piston skirt.

Cause: Action:
• Air filter damaged or missing. Fit a new air filter.
• Parts from the carburettor or intake Regular service and inspection.
system have come loose and entered
the engine.

Extensive damage to the lower part of the

piston’s inlet side.

48
 Cylinder and piston 6
Service tips

Defect: Action:
Broken cooling fins, damaged threads or sheared bolts by In severe cases – replace the cylinder.
the exhaust port. Repair the threads using Heli-Coil.
Seizure marks in the cylinder bore (especially by the ex- Polish the damaged area using a fine grade emery cloth so
haust port). that the coating of aluminium disappears.
With deep seizure score marks the piston and cylinder
should be replaced.
Surface coating in the cylinder bore worn out (primarily at Replace the cylinder and piston.
the top of the cylinder).
The piston shows signs of seizure score marks. Carefully polish the damaged area using a fine file of fine
grade emery cloth. Before the piston is refitted the cylinder
should be polished as above. With deep score marks the
piston and cylinder should be replaced.
Piston ring burnt in its groove. Carefully loosen the piston rings and clean the groove well
before refitting. Carbon deposits in the groove impair the
important heat transfer between the piston and cylinder.

NOTE!
Be careful with the lower edge of the piston ring
groove. If this is damaged, or if carbon deposits
remain, the compression pressure can leak through.

Bolts much too tight in the aluminium material.

Wear tolerances
Cylinder bore Piston ring gap Piston ring groove Piston ring play

When the surface coating is worn Max. 1.0 mm with the piston ring Max. 1.6 mm. Clean the groove be- Max. 0.15 mm. Clean the groove
and aluminium appears. inserted in the lower part of the fore checking the measurement. before checking the measure-
cylinder. ment.

49
6 Cylinder and piston

50
 Crankshaft and crankcase 7

Crankshaft and crankcase

Contents
Dismantling ________________________________ 52
Inspecting the crankshaft______________________ 53
Assembly _________________________________ 54

51
7 Crankshaft and crankcase

The task of the crankshaft is to transform the reciprocating motion of the piston to rotation. This requires a stable design
withstanding immense pressure and rotational and bending strain, as well as high rotational speed. In addition the con-
necting rod is exposed to large acceleration and retardation forces as it moves between the top and bottom dead centres.
This puts special demands on the bearings that must withstand quick changes in load. Moreover, the bearing’s roller
retainer must also cope with high temperatures and friction. It is therefore extremely important when servicing to check
the roller retainer for cracks, wear and discolouration caused by overheating.
The crankshaft is journalled in the crankcase on heavy-duty ball bearings. In addition to the journalling point for the
crankshaft, the crankcase acts as a scavenging pump for the fuel/air mixture when this is “sucked” from the carburettor
and is forced into the cylinder’s combustion chamber. The crankcase must be perfectly sealed so as not to affect this
pump function. There cannot be any leakage from the crankshaft, between the crankcase halves or between the crank-
case and the cylinder.
Always replace the sealing rings and gaskets when servicing the crankcase.

Dismantling Dismantling
Dismantle all components so that only the Dismantle all components so that only the
crankcase and crankshaft remain. crankcase and crankshaft remain.
Dismantle the guard under the crankcase. See the respective sections for detailed
information if necessary.
Remove the 2 bolts and lift off the guard
from under the crankcase.

U
Prise off the cable duct and the short- Remove the cable duct by using for in-
circuit cable. stance a screwdriver to press on the three
plungers and the grommet for the short-
circuit cable.

Remove the 5 screws holding both crank- Remove the8 5 screws holding both crank-
case halves together. case halves together.

502 50 18-01

52
Crankshaft and crankcase 7
Separate the crankcase halves from Separate the crankcase halves from each
each other. other..
Prise off the guide rail from the flywheel This can be done without tools as the
side of the crankcase half. crankshaft has a sliding fit in the bearing
seatings.
Using a screwdriver, carefully prise off the
guide rail for the bypass channels from
the flywheel side of the crankcase half.

Remove the bearing and sealing rings Heat the crankcase halves to approx.
from the crankcase halves. 150°C using a hot air gun.
Knock the halves against a wooden block
so that the bearings fall out of their seats.
Remove the gaskets with a suitable
punch.
Scrape off any gasket residue from
the cylinder base plane and from the
crankcase’s contact face.

505 38 17-09

Inspecting the crankshaft Inspecting the crankshaft

Check that there is no play on the coppers Check that there is no play on the coppers
around the crank disks. around the crank disks.

Inspect the large end of the connecting The crankshaft cannot be reconditioned
rod. but must be replaced if it is worn or dam-
aged.
Inspect the large end of the connecting
rod. If seizure marks, discolouration on
the sides or damaged needle holders are
found the crankshaft must be replaced.

53
7 Crankshaft and crankcase
Inspect the small end of the connecting Inspect the small end of the connecting
rod. rod.
If seizure marks or discolouration are
found in the bearing track the crankshaft
must be replaced.

Check the crank bearing. Check the crank bearing. The connecting
rod shall not have any radial play (up and
down).
It should, however, have axial play, in or-
der to ensure good lubrication of the crank
bearing among other things.

Inspect the crankshaft bearing and sealing Check for wear in the crankshaft bearing
rings. and sealing rings.
Clean the bearings and rotate the outer
ring. If movement is “jerky” the bearing
track is probably damaged. If so, replace
the bearing.
Also check that the gap is not too great.
Inspect the sealing rings. The seal edge
shall be sharp or slightly ground.

Assembly Assembly
Mount the bearings in the crankcase Heat the crankcase halves to approx.
halves. 150°C using a hot air gun and position the
bearings.
Make sure they go right down into the
bearing seats.

54
Crankshaft and crankcase 7
Placera vevaxeln, överströmningska- Fit the crankshaft and the guide rail for
nalernas ledskena samt packningen på the bypass channels to the clutch side of
kopplingssidans vevhushalva. the crankcase half.
Put the crankcase gasket in place and
make sure that both guide pins are in
position.

Put the crankcase half of the magnet side Slide the crankcase half of the magnet
in place and tighten the 5 screws. side into place over the crankshaft.
Tighten the 5 crankcase screws crosswise
(1-5).
Check that the crankshaft can rotate
easily. If not, hit the axle spindles sharply
a few times with a rubber hammer so that
the tension in the crankshaft disappears.

Fit the sealing rings. Lubricate the axle spindles with engine oil
and press the sealing rings until level with
the crankcase using a suitable punch or
tool 505 38 17-09.
The metal covers of the sealing rings
should face outwards!
Fit the piston and cylinder and the remain-
ing parts in the reverse order as set out for
dismantling. See the respective sections
for detailed information if necessary.

505 38 17-09

55
7 Crankshaft and crankcase

56
 List of tools 8

Tools

Contents
Starter ____________________________________ 58
Electrical system ____________________________ 58
Fuel system ________________________________ 58
Centrifugal clutch ____________________________ 58
Angle gear _________________________________ 59
Cylinder and piston __________________________ 59
Crankshaft and crankcase _____________________ 59
Workshop equipment_________________________ 59

57
8 List of tools

em em l
ter trica
l l syst l sys
t
t r ifug
a
Star Elec Fue Fue Ce n
em ch
syst clut

502 50 18-01 502 71 13-01 505 69 85-70 530 03 55-60 502 21 58-01

0.3

502 51 34-02 531 03 06-23 502 71 14-01 521 54 83-01

502 50 06-01 502 50 18-01 502 52 16-02

521 54 83-01 501 60 02-03 502 50 18-01

502 50 18-01 502 50 83-01 502 50 64-01

502 51 94-01 505 69 85-70

502 51 91-01

58
 List of tools 8
n d
gea
r r an
d
h aft a op op
e d e k s ksh nt r ksh nt
An g l
Cyli n Cran case Wo r
e Wo e
k ipm ipm
pist
on cran e q u equ

502 50 65-01 502 50 18-01 505 38 17-09 502 51 03-01 544 13 05-01

503 97 64-01 505 38 17-05 502 50 18-01 531 03 06-23 544 13 08-01

503 80 17-01 502 50 70-01 502 71 14-01 544 13 09-01

502 54 11-01 505 69 85-70 544 13 10-01

544 34 87-01

59
8 List of tools

60
 Technical Data 9

Technical Data

Contents
Engine ____________________________________ 62
Ignition system______________________________ 62
Carburettor ________________________________ 62
Clutch ____________________________________ 62
Driving ____________________________________ 62
Dimensions ________________________________ 62

61
9 Technical Data
545FX 545FXT 545RX 545RXT

Engine
Displacement, cm3 45.7 45.7 45.7 45.7
Cylinder bore, mm 42 42 42 42
Stroke, mm 33 33 33 33
Compression ratio 9,2 9,2 9,2 9,2
Max output, kW/speed, rpmin 2,2/9.000 2,2/9.000 2,1/9.000 2,1/9.000
Decompression valve Yes Yes Yes Yes
Blade shaft speed, rpm 10.100 10.100 8.800 8.800
Catalytic converter kit No No No No

Ignition system
SEM digital Max speed, rpm 13.000 13.000 12.200 12.200
Pre-ignition at max output, degrees 31 31 31 31
Pre-ignition at idling, degrees 14 14 14 14
Spark plug, NGK CMR6H CMR6H CMR6H CMR6H
Heating, handle No Yes No Yes

Carburettor
Manufacturer Walbro WTE WTE WTE WTE
Walbro air supply valve Yes Yes Yes Yes
Basic setting, H jet 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1
Basic setting, L jet 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9
Idle speed, rpm 2.700 2.700 2.700 2.700
Air filter type Nylon Nylon Paper Paper
Throttle control type Thumb Thumb Forefinger Forefinger
throttle throttle throttle throttle

Clutch
3-shoe clutch, Diameter, mm 69 69 69 69
Engage speed, rpm 3.700 3.700 3.700 3.700

Driving
Angle gear, degrees 24 24 35 35
Angle gear, gear ratio 1.29 1.29 1.29 1.4
Steering, drive disc, mm/inches 25.4/1 25.4/1 25.4/1 25.4/1
Shaft diameter, mm 32 32 32 32
Drive axle diameter, mm (homogeneous axle) 9 9 9 9
Drive axle connections Splines/thread Splines/thread Splines/thread Splines/thread

Dimensions
Weight, kg 8.1 8.3 8.7 8.5
Tank volume, litres 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9

62
115 48 40-26

2012W12