Day Spa Techniques

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Day Spa
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Erica T. Miller
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Miller, Erica T.
SalonOvations' day spa techniques I by Erica T. Miller.
cm.p.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN: 1-56253-26 1-8
I , Beauty culture-United States. 2. Beauty shops-United States-Management. 3. Health resorts-
UnitedStates-Management. 4. Baths-United States. 5. Hydrotherapy-United States. 6. Massage-United
States. 1. SalonOvations (Firm) 11. Title
TT9SX.MSS 1996 95-22904
646.1-dc20 CIP
Con tents
Preface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . x
A6outtheAuthor ................................................ xii
Acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xiii
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xiv
CHAPTER 1. History from Europe to America . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
WHYSPAS? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
EVOLUTION OF THESPA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
AMERICANSPAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Types of Spas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
TheDaySpa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Whoisthe Day Spa Client? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
CHAPTER 2 . Water and WaterTherapy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
HISTORY OF WATER U S E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
TheCreeks and Romans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Biblical
References .................................... 8
Modern Beginnings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
WATER A N D ITS U S E S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Water
By
Itself ...................................... 11
Water
Therapy ...................................... 12
Circulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Movement and Exercise in Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
CHAPTER 3 . Baths and Bathing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
BATHING
HISTORY ................................... 15
Creeks and Romans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The 15
TheMiddleEast and India . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Japan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
America . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
TERMINOLOGY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
WHOTAKESBATHS? .................................. 19
WHATHYDROTHERAPYTUBTREATMENTSDO .......... 19
V
vi Contents
Who Should Not TakeHydrotherapyBaths-Contraindications .... 20

Rules of theTu6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Temperatures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tu6 22
TreatmentTimes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
AIR AND WATER JETS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
UNDERWATER MASSAGE .............................. 25
Use of theHose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
UnderwaterMassageContraindications ..................... 28
TUB TREATMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Thalassotherapy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
AromatherapyBaths . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Hydrotherapy Tu6
Treatment ............................ 31
End of theBathTreatment .............................. 32
CLEANING THE TUBANDROOM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
CHAPTER4 . Showers .................................... 34

OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
THE REGULAR SHOWER .............................. 34
Rules of theShower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
SHOWER TREATMENTS ............................... 36
Regular
Shower ..................................... 36
TheSwissShower .................................... 37
The Vichy Shower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
The
SteamShower ................................... 42
ScotchHose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
BLENDING HYDROTHERAPY MODALITIES .............. 46
CHAPTER 5. Touch and Massage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
MECHANISM OF TOUCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
HISTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Touchandthe Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
EFFECTS OF MASSAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
ClientConsultationPrior to Treatment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Contraindications of Massage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
THE CLASSICALEFFLEURAGEMASSAGE ............... 53
Order of Massage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Performanceof Massage in Relation to BodyTreatments . . . . . . . . . 54
GeneralEffleurage for theBody .......................... 55
CHAPTER 6 . Introduction to Aromatherapy ............... 60

OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Contents vii
HISTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Modern
Development ................................. 61
ESSENTIAL OILS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
Processing
Essential
Oils ............................... 62
How EssentialOilsWork ............................... 64
PsychologyandtheNose ............................... 65
SomeCommonEssentialOilsandTheirPurposes ............. 66
Combinationsand How to UseThem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
Contraiudications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
THE TREATMENTANDAFTER ......................... 71
CHAPTER 7. Client Preparation and Room Setup . . . . . . . . . 73

OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
BASICCLIENTPREPARATION .......................... 73
TheConsultationChart ................................ 74
WETROOM VERSUS DRY ROOM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
WetRoom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
DryRoom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
ROOMAMBIANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Bed Setup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Wet Room Bed Setup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
DryRoomBedSetup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Work AreaSetup .................................... 84
CHAPTER 8. Body Treatments and

Treatment Development .................... 87
OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
BODYTREATMENT CONCEPTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
OVERALLTREATMENTGOALS ......................... 88
Exfoliation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
Full-Body
Care ...................................... 89
Spot Treatment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Contraindications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
TREATMENTSFOR THE DAY SPA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Exfoliation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Full-Body
Treatments ................................. 95
Treatments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Spot 98
COMBININGTREATMENTSWITHHYDROTHERAPY ...... 105
Swiss
Shower ...................................... 106
Vichy Shower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Steam
Shower ..................................... 106
HydrotherapyTu6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
SCHEDULING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
viii Contents
CHAPTER 9 . Exfoliation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108

OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
REASONS FOR EXFOLIATION ......................... 108
TYPES OF EXFOLIANTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Mechanical
Exfoliants ................................ 109
Enzyme or DissolvingExfoliants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Contraindications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
CHAPTER 10. Mud Treatments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119

OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
MUD IS REALLY CLAY ................................ 119
GeneralProperties of Clays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
CLAYS MOSTOFTENUSED IN COSMETICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Kaolinite(kaolin) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Illite/Chlorite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Smectites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
MAJOR CLAY MINERALSAND THE BODY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Clay
Colors ........................................... 123
TREATMENTS IN ESTHETICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
GeneralInformationWhenWorkingwithClays .............. 123
Tablesetup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
ClientPreparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
MUDTREATMENTS .................................. 125
Full-Body MudTreatment ............................. 125
Skin Cleansing BackTreatment ......................... 129
Spa
Manicure/Pedicure ............................... 131
ScalpTreatment .................................... 133
MudBaths . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Other Spot
Treatments ............................... 135
CHAPTER 11. SeaweedTreatments ...................... 137

OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
THESEA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
ALGAE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Pigments in Algae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
Types of Algae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Uses in Esthetics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
TREATMENTS IN ESTHETICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
ThalassotherapyBody Treatment ........................ 144
Tablesetup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Client 145
Contents ix
SEAWEED TREATMENTS ............................. 145

Full-Body Seaweed
Treatment ........................... 145
Back
Treatment ........................................ 148
Cellulite
Treatment .................................. 149
LocalizedTreatment for AchylSoreMuscles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Spa
Manicure/Pedicure Treatments ....................... 152
Bust
Treatment ..................................... 153
Facial
Treatments ................................... 154
ThalassotherapyBath
Treatments ........................ 154
CHAPTER 12. Other Treatments ......................... 156

OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
SPOT TREATMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Spa
Manicure/Pedicure ............................... 156
SpaHandandArm.FootandLegTreatment ................ 158
Scalp
Treatment .................................... 159
Cellulite
Treatment .................................. 160
An
tistress
Treatment ................................. 162
Bust
Treatment ..................................... 163
Back
Treatment .................................... 164
Spa
Facial ........................................ 166
OTHERHOTANDCOLDTREATMENTS ................. 167
Hot
Treatments ..................................... 168
Cold
Treatments .................................... 169
CHAPTER 13. HomeCave .................................. 170

OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
BASICBODYCARE NEEDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Soaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
BathAdditives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
BodyConditioningandMoisturizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Specialtyand Spot Treatments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
WATERFOR HOMEUSE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Hydrotherapy at Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
BathsandShowers at Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Compresses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Drinking Water .................................... 180
CelluliteTreatment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Answers to Review Questions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183

BiGliagraphy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Further
Reading ............................................. 191
Glossary/Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
Preface
For a person who has written probably four hundred or more articles on
differentsubjects related to esthetics, you would think a book would be
easy. Well, it wasn’t, but it was one of the greatest challenges of my career.
No matter how qualified I may have thought I was to write this book given
my training and work history, 1 approached it with a fervor I never imag-
ined. I was excited about writing the book because of the many requests I
have had forit, but after completing the outline and rough draft of the table
of contents my year of research and stress began. There wasso little docu-
mentation of many subjects that I had to look into other fields for answers,
such as geology to learn more about clays and muds. With no other day
spa books on the market from which to glean ideas, 1 managed to work
myself almost to death just worrying about the quality of my material. At
completion I looked back and felt 1 could start over, add this and that, but
I stopped. So with your help, input, and comments perhaps another book
will be born to take up where I left off.
You may wonder why I felt qualifiedto write the book. Aside from being
an “antique”in this business, as you will see from the typical biography
included, I have a short story to tell you. I graduated from esthetics school
(the Christine Shaw School of Beauty, London, England) in 1972 and was
hired by the second largest cosmetic companyin Japan ( I spoke Japanese
and was an interpreter).They put me in their research center for lack of a
specific placement since I was their first foreignerin 35,000 beauty consult-
ants. I only say this because it turned out to be one of the greatest bless-
ings of my career. The very first project I was given wasto develop the body
department of a total beauty salon they werein the process of developing
in Tokyo (Meguroarea).I knew very littleother thanfrom my massage therapy
training and had never actually done treatments on the public, much less
the Japanese public. There were no books! We managed and the salon
opened with everything that is popular today-Swiss shower, Scotch hose,
hydrotherapy tub, figure analysis, and more. I worked on site for a couple
of years before going onthe teaching staff.
Many years later, I was just getting my own company, Correlations.
Inc.,off the ground when I had the opportunity to go to work as the beauty
director for the very prestigious Neiman Marcus Greenhouse in Texas. I
took that job and worked both fora couple of years, which is when I really
fell in love with the spa concept. But at that time it was still predominantly
within the realm of the wealthy leisure class. The growth in the last tenyears
has been great but so much ofit has been hit and miss, with perhaps as
many business failures as successes. It was and is time for apractical, ge-
neric, nonproduct text. 1 took up the challenge and here it now is after well
over a year.
Preface xi
I hope it will be a useful reference for you but that you will study and
research much more. Any book is only one viewpoint. I have triedto give as
many options as possible, and I have attempted to stay away from any prod-
uct-based procedure, which has been quite difficult because most treat-
ments are so strongly product and procedure driven. You must work with
this text, your product suppliers, and experts in the field and take all the
classes you can. This is only one small part. May God richly bless you in
your career and may you, in turn, give back to this great industry and to
your public.
A6out the Author
Erica T. Miller is an internationally acclaimed educator with world-class
qualifications and expertise. As a CIDESCO Diplomate and International
Examiner, Ms. Milleris a founding memberof NCA/CIDESCO USA, Liaison
Committee Chairmanfor the Esthetics Equipmentand Manufacturer’sAlli-
ance (EMDA) of the American Beauty Association (ABA), and has been
named one of the five most prominent women in American Esthetics by
Salofl News magazine. She’s listed in more than five Who‘s Who ifl America
books, is formerly associate publisher/editor of Aesthetics World magazine
and has authored more than three hundred articles in national publica-
tions, served as beauty director for the Neiman Marcus Greenhouse, andis
the nation’s mostwell-known expert on Shiatsu. She is a graduate of Shaw
College of Beauty in London. In addition to her esthetics expertise, Miller
speaks fluent Japanese,having majored in Japanese atSophia University,
Naganuma Language School, and the Simultaneous Interpreter Academy
in Tokyo. She has served as a n official interpreter for Japanesevisitors to
the United States including membersof the Kyodo News Serviceand United
Press International. As chairperson and president for Correlations, Inc., a
Dallas-based full-service esthetics training and distribution company,Miller
develops training programs and productsfor the Dallas Training Centerand
travels the country teaching advanced courses in a number of esthetics-
related subjects.
xii
Acknowledgments
To the reader who doesn’t know the names, perhaps this page is boring.
But to the author, this is the most important page because how do 1 prop-
erly thank allthe people who contributed to the making of the book? lust as
in a movie, one person really can’t do it alone.
Thank you to my encouragers/readers. To Paula Dean-Ball, my busi-
ness partner, friend,and patient sidekick,I thank you for helpingm e through
this entire project; for putting up with my thoughts, my lack of time, my
frustrations;and for reading the book and giving me the courage to finish
it. To Christine McKinnonof Christine’s Esthetics,who has been reading
this manuscriptand the manuscript for my Shiatsu book, I appreciate your
encouragement and help.I also once again thank Mary Cathryn Wisely for
all her helpin obtaining photos and releases from different sources and for
keeping up withslides and letters while I lost others. I must thankmy other
business partner, Andy Sears, who not only took up the slack while I was
writing but also helped me with ideas and concepts, assisted in photogra-
phy, and made me feel comfortable and safe to be away from the business.
In the same vein I thank my entire staff for your support, encouragement,
and patience with me.
I especially want to thank Lynn Kirkpatrick,of With Class, A Day Spa in
Tyler, Texas, who made several pertinent suggestions on treatment proce-
dures and business and who graciously allowed meto use her spa for our
photo shoot.
To my old friendand clientGinny Burge, fromthe renowned Beautiquein
Houston, who provided vital input on strategyand operations as well as tre-
mendous encouragement and support. To my new friend and very brightspa
director at the Broadmoor in Colorado Springs, Marguerite Rivel. What an
inspiration you havebeen; your comments will help our whole industry.
I so very much appreciate Milady Publishing Company for their earnest
interest in the development of this book andto Brian Yacur, the production
manager for flying all the way to Texas from Albany, New York, to help in the
photo shoot and the direction of the art program for the book, My “boss,”
acquisitions editor, Marlene Pratt , and project editor Annette Downs Danaher
have both beenso gracious and encouraging during the computer problems,
lost chapters, new ideas and additionsas well as just being so supportive. I
know they have a million projects but they haveacted as if mine are theonly
books being published-what talent! I can’t thank you enough.
Special thanks to the following professionals who reviewed this book:
Shelley Hess, Sunrise, Florida
Jane Kane, Kingston,NewYork
Ginny Burge, Houston, Texas
And finally, I thank you for choosing to purchase and read this!
xiii
Introduction
This book comes at a confusing timein the beauty and health industry.As
the “babyboomer” begins to age, the American beauty industry must real-
ize that our consumers want to look and feel good during their maturing
process, and in so doing, any and all preventative healthconcepts are readily
embraced. The human body is a mysterious machinethat reacts to its envi-
ronment in any number of ways. From the beauty and allied health industry
point ofview,we can treat and help a number of disorders or “dysfunc-
tions” in the body. However, our limitations by national and state licensure,
as well as controls by the Food and Drug Administration and other regula-
tory bodies, sometimes inhibit ourprogress in areas of research and devel-
opment. We are often able to accomplish many improvements in the skin
and body but can’t document or justify the mechanism by which this hap-
pens. Beauty and health practices throughthe annals of history as well as
practitioners’ personal experience help us to understand what we might
expect to accomplish, but scientific documentation is scant and most often
not allowed in our field.
This book is designed to help you chart a viable, practical coursein the
performance of day spa treatments. The goalof this discourseis to help you
treat your clients completely, from a skin standpoint to a well-being stand-
point. It is not, however, a guidebook for alternative medical practice. Al-
though from time to time medical benefits may also be mentioned, this author
firmly believes that we are practitioners of beauty and well-being only.
Many of the spa treatments in this book have been around from ancient
times. What’snew is merely the terminology, the amalgamation of informa-
tion and treatment modalities, and the idea of performing spa services in a
salon or clinic type environment ona day or partial daybasis.
Probably the most important thing to be kept in mind, which is also
hopefully why you have purchased this book,is that the beauty and health
practitioner of the future must be multi-informed,if not multitalented.Even
if licensure segregates the esthetician from the massage therapist, gone
are the days when the massage therapist only performs a Swedish mas-
sage on the body for one hour with no concern for the skin and ongoing
care of the client. Gone are the days when the consumer goes to an
esthetician for a “pampering,relaxing” facialfrom the forehead to the chin.
Gone are the days when the nail technician or hairdresser isn’t asked for
spa manicures and scalptreatments. We are in the age of total body care.
This is not a trend that will disappear in a couple of years. Body care is here
to stay and will undoubtedly be thetreatment concentration of the future.
This book may be the first of its kind on the market but it won’t bethe
last. This book is only the beginning of a future generation of scientific
body care that will encompass the whole being. Even with the extensive
research and m y near quarter of a century experience, 1 don’t believe this
xiv
Introduction xv
book can cover allthe opportunities and possibilities availablein spa treat-
ments. It’s my goal that it lights a path for you to grow from. I don‘t doubt
the possibilities of missing important information, special treatments, or
controversies in approach. That must be expected in this inexact science.I
welcome comments, additional information,and new concepts. Personally,
I doubt if I’ll ever be satisfiedwith the book because I’m constantly search-
ing and researching for more. I hope it will encourage you to do the same.
Read, study, and perfect the day spa techniques and then go on from
there and grow more. No book can be a panacea and nothing replacesthe
valuable trainingout there by schools, advanced trainingcenters, technical
videos, and manufacturers and distributors of products. Your education
cannot be completed by a book. It’sonly your springboard. I hope you find
it a helpful resource.
This Page Intentionally Left Blank
CHAPTER 1
History from Europe to America
OVERVIEW
Without a clear understanding of where the "spa"originated,it's difficult to
understand the positioning of a "day spa."The evolution from Europe had
a profound effect on America'sspas, but America also took a different di-
rection to serve the needs of the local consumer. By understanding this
history, you are able to position day spa treatments more effectively for
your clientbase.
WHY SPAS?
Life in America is stressful and everyoneis acutely conscious of it. Whether
through informationfrom the media orfriends,bad experiences with medi-
cine, fear of the spiraling costs of health care, or just plaininterest in taking
care of oneself, the American consumer is looking forthe "fountainof health
and youth" and sees the potential of the spa experience as an opportunity
to stay healthy and happy.
Vacation time is shorter and people are tired of the vacation residue,
the days and days of overeating,laying around in the cancer-producingsun,
and drinking exotic alcoholic drinks. Smoking is no longerpermitted in most
places and is certainly not considered the socially acceptable thing to do.
People are stressed in their jobs, divorce is at an all-timehigh, new relation-
ships are confused and difficult to manage, money and power are almighty
goals in life for too many, and the family-centered lifestyle has all but
crumbled. However, our lifestyle today is also quite conducive to a desire
and quest for a healthier, more relaxed being.
One of the major solutions touted for the American consumer lies in
fitness and beauty preservation. Consumer magazines constantly hail the
benefits of exercise, self-training videos offer myriad home care solutions,
and the variety of effective beauty-relatedproducts and services available
nowadays is limitless. Even party conversations often center on health, ex-
ercise, and beauty. But the spa visit is still the optimal avenueof pursuit of
health and well-being. Evidence of this spa trend toward renewed health
lies in the existence of so many spa guidebooks and even travel agencies
specializing in spa travel packages. The spa readily lends itself as a solution
to the 1990s lifestyle and lifestyle problems.
............................................
SPA POINT
Due to the American lifestyle changing and becoming so stress oriented, the spa
concept of u vacation has mushroomed in popularity. Stress is at an all-time
1
2 SalonOvation’sDay Spa Techniques
high, divorce is rampartt, jo6s are high pressure, all of which mahe spas a cortdu-
cive ertvirortmertt for art escape.
............................................
EVOLUTION OF THE SPA

The term spa was derived from the name of a small village near Liege, Bel-
gium, calledSpau. This was a mineral hot springs area and people would visit
the areaand take advantageof the waters to cure various ailments and disor-
ders. ”Takingthe waters”as it was called wasthe fashion with the elite classes
of the Roman Empire. The bathing in these special mineral waters, drinking
of the waters,and in essence building vacationsand social events around the
hot springswas in vogue forcenturies. In fact, bathing was part of the fiber of
daily Roman life. Even Peter the Great visited spas to cure his ailments.
Spas continued to flourish in Europe until the outbreak of World War I .
After the war, spas fell somewhat into a decline in Europe due to the al-
most universal nationalizationof health care and interest in modern medi-
cine. However, this wasn’t to last and Europe reinstated the “cure”visits
to spas. It was proven even to the satisfaction of the European medical
community that there was something vital to health in the mineral hot
springs and sea water spas, and popularity resurgence occurred.
Today throughout Europe, “cure”or hur towns exist in hot springs cit-
ies and villages where variouscompanies send their employeesfor three-,
five-, or seven-day visits for health maintenance. This kur is recognized
and accepted as a viable preventative health mechanism in many coun-
tries, with Germany as a leading core country in this tradition. I f you visit
some of these European hur spas, you’ll discover the seriousness of the
program and attendee where most often the goal will be health restora-
tion (curingan ailment),not just relaxation or vacation.
AMERICAN SPAS
In the transatlantic crossing to America a unique twist has taken place.
Whereas cures and health rejuvenation were the goals of European spas,
the American spas emerged as facilities that promoted healthy lifestyles
based on exercise, fitness programs, weight loss, and beauty pampering,
not on curing ailments.The early Americanspas such as the Neiman Marcus
Greenhouse and Elizabeth Arden’s Main Chance started in the early 1960s
to promote the concept of a hidden retreatfor the wealthy American woman
who wanted to lose weight and have a lifestyle change along with serious
pampering and relaxation. Thusestablishments like the Greenhouse tended
to concentrate heavily on the beauty and pampering side. Since the price
tag for a week’s stay (which was then the only option, modeled after the
European spa) was normally quite high, accommodating the tastes and
desires of the wealthy became the norm. As a result rumor spread by
nonattending people that these facilities were,in fact, “fat farms.”Unfortu-
CHAPTER I HistoryfromEurope to America 3
nately the term “fatfarm” stuckfor quite a while and perhaps even slowed
the growth of spas in America.
Nevertheless, evento this day, the fitness emphasis of American spas is
stronger than thatof Europe. In the 1970s and 1980s,the spa concept grew
into its own. During this time, the number of destination spas (mostoften
connected to hotels or resorts) grew from about 30 around the country to
more than 150. Now there are estimates of more than 300 spas around the
country and this number is growing every day. This number will naturally
escalate as more and more hotels see the amenity spa offering as one of
the ways in which to compete. The growth wasso great in the late 1980s that
confusion and competition began to cause problems in the spa industry.
............................................
SPA POINT
American spas arenot as “cure” oriented as European spas but more fitness and
beauty oriented. Many destination spas are connected to hotels or resorts.
............................................
Types of Spas just defining a spa has been a trick since the industry evolved before a
representative naming could be established. Now, spas are often segre-
gated according to the property management direction, types of services
offered,and general property description. And evennow, not all agree upon
the definitions,but probably three major categorizationsexist.
RESORT SPAS
These are located on the property of a hotel, normally in a resort where
other sports and activities are also offered besides the spa program itself.
Spa guests and hotel guests intermingle.
AMENITY SPAS
These are similar to the resort spa concept except that the actual goal of
the management is to add the spa as an amenity to the hotel. Thus the spa
is not necessarily viewedas a profit centeras seriously as some resortspas.
DESTINATION SPAS
This is a hotel property geared specifically to the spa guest and spa pro-
gram. Outside guests are not normally part of the program. Everything is
geared around the spa and its program.
OTHER SPAS
In spa guidebooks andthe like spas may be further broken downinto a num-
ber of categories according to the programs, such as a beauty spa, health
and fitnessspa, medical spa, holistic spa, and,of course, the dayspa.
The Day Spa The major spin-offof the European and American destination spa, and the
topic of this book, is the day spa. Again we have difficulty defining clearly
what a dayspa is or should be.
FIGURE 1-1 The destination day spa. offering water therapy treatments and packages including
iacials. manicures, pedicures, hairstyling, and more.
The first salonCUM day spa (by the use of the termday spa) in America is
alleged to be Noelle,A Day Spa in Stamford, Conneticut. According to Noelle
De Caprio, owner/developer, her dayspa came out of owning a successful,
albeit stressful, salonin the early 1970s. To regroup and regenerate, Noelle
would make bi-annual tripsto spasin Europe. She thought they were won-
derful, but sincethe majority of Americans couldn’t or wouldn’t opt for a
week-long stay, why not, as Noelle stated, “offer this concept on a short
day basis?” So in 1974 she used the phrase, “A Day Spa,”and started by
offering packages including a facial, manicure, pedicure, hairstyling, and
lunch. At that time, however,she didn’t base her serviceson water therapy
as did the European spas. Due to her success and subsequent other opera-
tions and activities, people heardabout Noelle’s and began askingher for
help in developing programs for their own salons. Since that time, Noelle
has also been a dayspa consultant. As the destinationspa grew in popular-
ity in the 1980s, so did the day spa, slowly and haphazardly. Both grew si-
multaneously and both without enough direction. By 1990,the idea of a day
spa had really taken root (Figure 1-1).
Today, the direction for a professional salon is, without a doubt, the
day spa.What matters now is how and what the day spa will be. The current
problem that haunts us is how to educate the consumer on the differences
between the salon that has invested in the expensive hydrotherapy tubs,
Vichy showers, and the like and the small salon that doesn’t even have a
shower but callsitself a day spa because it has body treatments available,
or worse yet, the salon that offers no spa services but callsitself a dayspa.
............................................
SPA POINT
The day spa is a one day or less answer to the destination or resort spa. Many
professional salons will naturally evolve into day spas.
............................................
At this time, thereis no legal differentiation, but hopefullywith time we
can bring all dayspas up to a more even level. The day spa of the future will
necessarily have to become more sophisticatedas the consumer demands
more. In the meantime, however, perhaps the following simple designations
CHAPTER I HistoryfromEurope to America 5
would serve as somewhat of a guideline for the development of a day spa

at all economic levels.This is not a legal description, butit may clarify what
a day spa could be.
Day Spa: A salon offering various facial and body treatments but with
no water facilitiesother than a faucetor bowl (verybasic).
Day Spa (Salon):A salon offering body treatmentswith a shower avail-
able. Body treatments and a showerare the minimal requirements.
Full Day Spa: Any number of water-based therapies are offered in con-
junction with a full complement of facial and body treatments.This may
include water-based devices such as Vichy shower, hydrotherapytub, etc.
The most significant difference between a destination or resort spa
and the day spa lies in the fact that day spas are really beauty salons or
esthetic clinics offering the treatment aspects of spa services, not nor-
mally the fitness and exercise aspects. And this is good because the re-
sort/destination spas should walk hand in hand with the day spas, they
don’treally step on each other’s toes.The Americanconsumer should be
encouraged to visit both regularlyfor a complete programof health, beauty,
and fitness preservation.
BASIC ADVANTAGESOF A SPA STAY

Exercise programs directed by a professional
Change of environment, concentration on self-improvement
Lifestylemodificationguidance and practice
Weight loss (if that’s a goal)
Relaxation
BASIC ADVANTAGES OF A DAY SPA

Ease of regular attendance
Local environment for ease of use
Professional ongoing skin and body care guidance
Controlled home care follow-up and guidance
Conditioning progress on a regular basis
Relaxation
............................................
SPA POINT
Among the advantages of a day spa over a destination spaare the ability to visit
on a day or less basis, convenience of a local environment, and the ease of home
care follow-up and guidance.
............................................
6 SalonOvation’s Day Spa Techniques
Who is the Day Today the destination spa guest is generally in the upper middle class
bracket, often career based, $50,000 plus annual income. The client is pre-
Spa Client? dominantly female, but the male segment is growing as well. The day spa
client is similar but may also include a little less affluence depending on the
day spa environment.However, as a general rule, spa services are currently
more prevalent for the upper middle class career person along with the
luxury nonworking class. Refer to Day Spa Operationsfor further information
on demographics and spa development.
~ ~
Synopsis It‘s essential to keep in mind the fact that the day spa has evolved from a
European therapy of health correction and maintenance based upon “the
waters” and relaxation. The week-long stays in Europe were and are de-
signed to encourage a big change in health. The concept of a week-long or
at least multipleday stay at a destination spa or resort are ideal for great
retraining purposes. For the person who doesn’t have a week or multiple
days, the day spa is certainly the next best thing. The consumer may not
notice the same dramatic change as a weeks concentrated working visit to
a spa, but the day spa advantage is the proximity for year-round activity
and improvement, whereas the spa visit is once maybe twice a year. The
two ideally go hand in hand.
If your client can only visit a day spa, it’s important to know that the
water and body treatments are viable, health enhancing, and progressive,
not just for fun and relaxation. The history from Europe should be a part of
the educational program on the day spa side to validate the effectiveness
of treatment and the reality of progressive goals. Surely a modality that has
been in existence for several thousand years and still survives must have
value today. Perhaps its value today is even greater than it was back in a
slower, calmer, healthier environment.
Review 1 . What is the origin of the term spa?

2. What country in Europe is strong for “kur” centers?
3. What is a major difference between spas in Europe and America?
4. Name two of the American types of spas (not day spas).
5. Why are spas and day spas compatible?
CHAPTER 2
Water and Water Therapy
OVERVIEW
Water, perhaps the modern world’s least appreciated resource, lies at the
foundation of the day spa concept. We all know that we can’t live without it,
and today it’s very chic to drink bottled mineral waters, but do we really
understand why? I stress the word modern because in the history of human-
kind, water was not the forgotten unappreciated resource it appears to be
today. Before delving into the purposes and uses of water in day spas, let’s
take a quick look at history and set the stage for the true importance of
water.
HISTORY OF WATER USE

Hydrotherapy, according to Webster’s Tenth New Collegiate Dictionary, is de-
fined as “thescientific use of water in the treatment of disease.”We are not
using water for the treatment of disease, but the term hydrotherapy has be-
come the generally accepted one for treatments incorporating water for
our professional purposes.
As is well known, water has been around since the beginning of time.
What you may not realize, however, is the vital role water played throughout
history. Additionally, the concept of hydrotherapy is not new either. True
hydrotherapy began thousands of years before Christ. Water was the true
foundation of healing and curing of disease in ancient Greece. Zeus, the
greatest of all the mythological Greek gods, was the father and god of rain,
storm, thunder, the heaven, and the earth. Also, Asclepius, son of Apollo,
was known as the god of healing. In all cases, water played an integral role
in healing and wellness.
The Greeks At the Greek temples, bathing in the rivers and massage were part of the
rituals of healing. Asclepius, represented by a serpent, the symbol of living
and Romans water, later was used to depict the medical insignia we know today.
Hippocrates, known as the Father of Medicine, born in 460 B.c., claimed
that he descended from Asclepius, and was the original homeopathic phy-
sician. H e used very few medicines, opting instead for natural remedies
and water therapies. Hippocrates was noted for medical cures based on
the idea that drinking water was the most important factor in Greek lives.
He used hot and cold baths and drinking water to fight a number of ill-
nesses. His drugs, of which he had only a few, were used as secondary
purges. He believed in fresh and sea water, compresses, spongings, drink-
ing water, and bathing as his predominant treatment for ailments.
7
FIGURE 2-1 Medical cures were historically Gased on the idea that water was essential for healthy
living. The application and consumption of fresh water and seawater was the predominant treatment
for ailments.
Later the Romans came along and really perfectedthe art of bathing.
They were particularly interested in seawater and running water.They de-
veloped vastsystems of cisterns and aqueducts to transport fresh water to
the people. Some of the finest examples of Roman cisterns are still found
in Carthage, a city of magnificent springs. In Rome alone there were more
than eight hundred public baths constructed.According to Pliny, Rome was
without a physician for more than six hundred years, a comment credited
to the healing capabilitiesof the waters.
Then came thephysician, Galen, who became famous for his ability to
cure consumption. His philosophy was founded in the continued belief in
water containing sunlightand oxygen (Figure 2-1).
His well-known treatment consisted of baths, drinking pure water, fresh
air, moderate diet, and exercise.
BiGlical References Let’snotforget that the Bible has morethanfifty-tworeferences to water in

the Old and New Testaments. For example,John3:5 states “Jesus answered,
‘Truly,truly I say to you, unlessone is born of water and the Spirit, he can-
not enter into the kingdom of God.’”Biblical representations of water infer
purity and innocence, and the use of the term living water referred to new life
through the spirit after salvation. Baptism, a word meaning purification,
came from the time of Christ and consisted of three immersions in living
water. Hippocrates, Galen, and Christ all insisted uponthe use of water for
healing and renewal. The term living water also came to mean watercontain-
ing sunlight and oxygen.
CHAPTER 2 Water and WaterTherapy 9
Another more modernlink to the primitive churchwas the famous J o h n

Wesley, who insisted on total immersion for baptism. In many of his ser-
mons he was said to have been able to cure blindness, asthma, shingles,
cancers, and other diseases through cold bathing. In 1702. Dr. John Floyer
published a book entitled The History of Cold Bathifig Both AvrcieMt afid Modem
in which he stressed the curative value of drinking cold water before bath-
ing in cold water, and then drinking it again after. Later he added warm
water bathing for greater effectiveness.
Another well-known physician in England at the time, Dr. Erasmus Darwin,

Modem Begimiugs father of Charles Darwin, reported great resultswith water therapy as well,
and even treated his own son with it. Strangely enough, bathing soon fell
into disrepute in England, but in the United States thefamous statesman
and philosopher Benjamin Franklin pioneered our own custom of bathing
and encouraged swimming as one of the most healthful and agreeable ex-
ercises in the world. In his latter years of ill health, he is known to have
taken a warm bath several times a day.
But the real development of the bath and spa originated by accident
between 1829 and 1842 in the Austro-Hungarian Empire by a simple farmer
named Vincent Priessnitz.He first cured his own farm animals in the adja-
cent stream and then was able to cure a personal rib injury when he was
accidentally run over by a cart. His use of water in this recovery catapulted
him into the development of an entire system of using water in bathings as
well as with cool andwarm compresses. His successes didn’tgo unnoticed
and he was eventually takento court as a quack healer, but he won his case
and became protected by the crown. As a result of this, healing establish-
ments began springing upall over underhis direction and he‘ssaid to have
cured more than seven thousand persons, mostly intellectualsfrom all over
Europe. This included a numberof well-respected physicians who became
sold on his concepts. Priessnitz didn’t document his procedures in writing
so his fame was somewhat stifled.
About the same time a German man, Sebastian Kneipp, born in 1821
in Bavaria, got involved in water cures for his own health problems. He
was a priest with a number of illnesses who heard about Priessnitz and
decided to t r y his cold water dip techniques. Determined to strengthen
himself, he began a daily routineof icy plunges i n the middle of cold win-
ter Bavaria and discovered tremendous stamina, energy, and strength re-
t u r n . He added some conceptsto Priessnitz’stechniques. He was quite a
herbalist and left a legacy of herbal therapeutics along with the water
therapy. He became the foremost authority on water and herbal bathing
and drinks. He is well known for using hay floweror oat straw for detoxifi-
cation purposes. He was particularly effective with children and devel-
oped the wet “nightshirt,”a healing technique in which salt or hay flower
was added to water into whichshirts were dipped then worn for a number
of remedies. Since Kneipp,we have had a long retinueof enforcers of the
value of water-based therapy.
10 SalonOvation's Day Spa Techniques
Due to Priessnitz and Kneipp, water therapy becamea very basic and
normal methodof treating people all over Europe. The development of spas
came from this healing concept in areas near special natural springs and
pure water and developed into healing-orientedresorts. All over Germany
and other countries, corporations still send employees to spa towns for
week-long cures. This is part of the preventative and curative healing con-
sciousness of Europeans.
WATER AND ITS USES

We've already touchedon the healing properties of water as used through-
out history. An interesting point to note was the historical use of surface
water rather than deep water. It is believed that surface water,if clean and
pure, of course, contains a great deal of oxygen and nitrogen and little car-
bon dioxide (Figure 2-2). The beauty of increased oxygen and nitrogen is
that they providethe body with self-healing improvement and actually acti-
vates the body's own mechanisms. This may be one reason water was used
so much in the past as a natural healing agent.Water, whether used in warm,
hot, cool, or cold form, provides additional stimulating and calming ac-
tions on the body and skin.
Aside frombathing, water should be consumed in large quantities.Some
believe that due to thesaline content of water in our bodies, theaddition of
salt water to our system is healing and nourishing. Aside from obvious
medical benefits such as to reduce fever, to be a diuretic, to treat certain
injuries andburns, or to relieve pain, we use water therapeuticallyin a salon
or spa environment for relaxation, moisturization, stimulation of the entire
system, reliefof discomfort and achiness, to relieve thirst, and for local
FIGURE 2-2 Water and its elements have long k e n associated with healing.
CHAPTER 2 Water and WaterTherapy I1
heating, cooling, and frictionpurposes. We use water-based treatments to

facilitatethe absorption of nutrients in beauty products and cosmetics and
to stimulate the body’s metabolism to help break down fats and toxins so
that the body canrid itself of unwanted toxins andwastes. So many health-
ful and beautifying effects resultfrom the myriad uses of water in beauty-
related treatments. We will also discuss drinking water, compresses for
different purposes, bathsand showers at home, and exercising in water for
increased mobility. In the salon environment, a number of energizing and
revitalizing treatments are provided by water.
As we begin to proceed to the spa environment anddiscuss the many
uses of water, specificswill be given on water and its variousapplications.
In each and everycase, there will be some overlap as the benefits of water
in general are added to specific modalities. It’spertinent at this point to
mention two important facets of water and water therapy.
Wuter By Itself Whether fresh

water or seawater, water by itself has beneficialeffectson
the body (Figure 2-3). Consider for a moment how you feel after a quick
morning dipin the pool. Don’tyou feel invigorated and ready to go? If you
don’t have a pool, how do you feel after a quick shower? When taken first
thing in the morning, you’ll find it refreshingand awakening.Or how about
a swim in the ocean? Not only will you normally feel refreshed and ener-
gized, your appetite is improved and the body feels less stress. From the
obvious cures of Sebastian Kneipp that have become so famous to the his-
tory of bathing from more than four thousand years ago, there must be
something valuable and healthfulto water all by itself.
FIGURE 2-3 Consider the beneficial effectsof fresh water and seawater on the body. Water.
including additives such as mud and seaweed, can greatly enhance the human body both
physiologically and psychologically.
Water Therapy Water

is used in conjunction with various additives, from salts to
seaweed
to mud and essential oils.Now we move to a greater sophisticationof treat-
ment and effects on the body. Even though the benefits to the human or-
ganism overlapsomewhat,these additives greatly enhance the physiological
as well as psychological benefits to the human being.
............................................
SPA POINT
Water all by itself has tremendous be~eficial effects O M the h u m a ~organism.
Additives such as seaweed, mud, aMd esseMtial oils enhance that simple afld
Maturd bemfit iM myriad ways.
............................................
Now let’s look at water in a little more depth.
Circulation The blood circulation is directly affectedby water in a number of ways, the
predominant one being the use of warm or cold water to effect an increase
or decrease in the circulation of a specific area of the body. Most hydro-
therapy treatments concentrate on the effects to the circulatory system.
Warm or hot water causes a vasodilation of the capillaries that often facili-
tates the distribution of nutrition and oxygen to all the organs andtissues.
Cool or cold watercauses the opposite, vasoconstriction or contraction of
the capillaries.This helps in quick stimulation to the system and reduction
of edema (swelling).
The person who made the combination of warm and cool water alter-
nating therapy popular was Sebastian Kneipp. This is the basis of all his
treatment principles. (Thiswill be more fully developed in another chapter.)
As an example, cold water can be invigorating whereas warm water is relax-
ing. I’m sure the reader will relate to the relative healthand stamina of the
well-known actress Katharine Hepburn, who is famous at her advanced age
for taking long swimsdaily year-round in the oceanoff the coast next to her
home. She personally credits hervim and vigor to the cold water.
WARM TO HOT WATER

High temperature water has a strong anti-inflammatory and anti-
infectious action.
Warm water relaxes the body.
Warm water increases blood flow.
The heat induces perspiration, thus the elimination of toxins.
Warm to hot water reduces pain and discomfort.
Warm water relaxes muscles and the entire body.
Warm to hot water can induce fatigue through muscle and system
relaxation.
Warm to hot water increases circulation, making product penetration
more effective.
CHAPTER 2 Water and Water Therapy 13
COOL TO COLD WATER

heart, skin, and brain.
Cold water has great effects on our lungs,
Cool to cold water is invigorating and stimulating andadds tone.
Cold causes the capillaries to contract toassist in reducing swelling.
Cold water for a short time has a tonic effect on the body; for an ex-
tended time it depresses the body.
Cold water increases the body’s own resistance to disease.
Cold water sometimes reduces pain.
Cold water stimulates maintenance of skin elasticity.
In some cold water treatments, the skin releases histamines that work
to reduce the tendency to allergic reactions.
Cool water can relieve headaches.
Cold water stimulates nerve endings, which in t u r n increases circula-
tion making the skin more absorptive of applied substances.
Movement and There is another important aspectof water we must consider in addition
to its effects on circulation. Physical therapy in water as well as water
Exercise in Water aerobics have been popular for some time. Although this does not come
directly under the subject of day spa treatments, it’s important to con-
sider that the reason for the popularity lies in the relative density of the
human body in water. The fact is that when a body is immersed in a fluid,
such as water, it experiences buoyancy in equal proportion to the amount
of water displaced. In simple terms, the density and resistance in water
make the human body float, exercise, and move muscles better. When
you add salt as in the Dead Sea, the body really becomes buoyant and
can floateffortlessly.Also, theturbulence in water such as water pressure
from a hose or air jets in a hydrotherapy tub allow the body to exercise
without exertion. This is why water is so great for persons recuperating
from injuries or patients with muscle atrophy. Because of the water resis-
tance or friction,much greater exercise canbe accomplished than on land.
This will be very valuable when we discuss topics such as cellulite treat-
ments and increasing circulation.Additionally, the thermal action of warm
water relaxes muscles and improves overall body mobility. Coldwater
shocks and invigorates muscle activity as well.
............................................
SPA POINT
Warm to hot and cool to cold water affect the 6ody in more ways than we nor-
mally think. Just consider the many ways in which any hydrotherapy treatment
can promote a sense of relaxation and well-6eing. The relaxation from warm
water and invigoration from cold water alone serve to make our day spa treat-
ments helpful to the 6usy client today.
............................................
SyMopsis In coming chapters you will learn moreabout how the blending and overlap
ping of warm and cool water,with and without additives,are used in a variety
of ways for similar and different effects. The myriad additivesand treatments
used in conjunction with water makesour work exciting and challenging. For
the novice it may seem complicated and confusing, but remember that much
of this therapyhas been handed down from sources around the world over a
duration of four thousand plus yearsso it would be impossible to know and
understand every combination in one mere lifetime. The beautyfor the pro-
fessional lies in the ability to understand general principles and then to ex-
periment and grow experientially on a dailybasis.
Water and its various applicationswill be discussed in several different
chapters. Alternating hot andcold will be used for a varietyof effects. Addi-
tives and concepts of aromatherapy and herbal therapies will further add
to theeffectiveness of day spa treatments.However, as with all aspects of
beauty and health care, water therapy, aromatherapy, and the like are an
inexact science. We are limited not only by the general lack of scientific
data, but also by the constraints of our license. As is reiterated so often
throughout the book, the application of water and additives is for beauty
and health maintenance only. Aspects of healing and curative benefits are
certainly a large part of the actual results, but that is not our purpose or
goal. Any references to medical or curative benefits are for your profes-
sional information only and are notto betransferred into practice.
............................................
SPA POINT
I t has taken more than four thousand years and every country in the world to
develop water and Ireatwent concepts. I t is therefore impossi6le for the practi-
tioner to learn all of them in the scope of one 6ook or one lifetime. Your expertise
will come with time and experience. And in the meantime, even the simplest of
treatments will work wonders in beauty and health maintenance, not to mention
client satisfaction.
......... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1 Review 1. In your opinion, how does history help us understand the benefits of
spa water treatments?
2. Whendidhydrotherapybegin?
3. What did Hippocrates have to dowith water as a therapy?
4. W h o was Sebastian Kneipp?
5. Is plain water a therapy?
6. How do additives help water therapies?
7. Name some effects of warm and cool water on the body.
CHAPTER 3
Baths and Bathing
OVERVIEW
In some respects,this chapter will be the highlight of the entire book, be-
cause as we have seen from a brief look at the history of water therapy,
bathing becomes the central core of all applications of water as a therapy.
For a more in depth look at the history of water and bathing,you may want
to refer to the book, Taking the Waters, Spirit*Art*SeMsuality,byAlevLytle
Croutier (seebibliography).This book takesyou from references in mythol-
ogy through history to the destination spas of the world.
BATHING HISTORY
Quickly, however, we’ll reviewhistory a bit. Bathing goes back to the Nile
River, the cradle of civilization. I f you remember Alexandria, under the
Ptolemies, there were more than four thousand public baths for a popula-
tion of under 250,000 people. The Egyptians were also famous for collect-
ing rain water and bathing in that for health purposes.
The Greeks The Greeks were also known for bathing. Remember the emphasis on physi-
cal fitness and body development? Bathing was a natural part of daily activ-
and Romans ity after physical exercise and this was revered above intellectualpursuits.
In fact many of the bathing centers also contained on-site gymnasiums.
The Greeks are believedto be the people who first utilized hot water and a
form of exfoliation using a strigil.a curved metal instrument usedto scrape
the body in the baths.
The Roman baths were, as previously stated, the real social centers of
society, comprising much more than just baths. Roman emperors were
known to have spent days at a time in the baths, entering the wateras many
as six to eight times a day.Even the populace were known to have bathed
multiple times a day. Roman baths were calledtherwae, and the communal
part of the bath centers were called Galnea. Some of these terms have be-
come the name of various therapies.According to Taking the Waters, “in Rome
around 312 B.C. there were over 750 million liters of water in 13 aqueducts for
Rome’s 1352 public fountains, 11 Imperial Thermae, and 926 public baths.”
One of the most famous thermae was the Diocletian Bath that accommo-
dated more than six thousand people at a time. Both Greek and Roman
alike celebrated the beautyand health of the body
The Middle East In Israel,the Jordan River was considered to be the foundationof Christian-
ity. There is an interesting reference in 2 Kings 5: 10 (NAS)that states, “And
and India Elisha sent a messenger to him saying, ’Go and wash in the Jordan seven
15
16 SalonOvation’s Day SpaTechniques
times, and your flesh shallbe restored to you and you shall be clean,”’refer-
ring to the bathing, cleansing, and purification of water in that society as
well as the Christian importance of baptism in the Jordan. Today we still
celebrate the value and healing powers of the Dead Sea.
The Hindu rites in India along the Ganges River, the steam bathsof the
Turks, and most other Middle Eastern cultures also have long important
histories related to bathing.
And moving to another part of the world, the Japanesehave often been
considered the world’scleanest people. To the Japanese,bathing was much
more than just a cleansing procedure; it was and is the spirit of cleansing
the mind and renewing the self. In Japan bathswere religious rites called
yuaMzi and misogi, being anessential element of the Shinto religion (the Japa-
nese national religion practiced in conjunction with Buddhism from China
and India) for more than two thousand years.
Interestingly enough, there has been very little change in bathing cus-
toms until quite recently. Modern Japanese don’t specifically think of bath-
ing as a religious act, but the relaxation is certainly spiritually appreciated
and a visit to a hot springs resort (called omen) or special bath resort is a
highly prized vacation.
Looking back at history, there were as many as twenty thousand bath-
houses throughout the country. In recent times, the number of public bath-
houses has dwindled to less than twelve thousand due in part to the addition
of private baths in most homes and to the cost of operating the public bath
(called sento).Approximately two thousand bathhouses remain in Tokyo,but
that number is dwindling quickly.As the popularity of day spas andhealth
consciousness grows, however, it is believed that there will be a revival in
public bathing. Therewill be quite a bit of modernization that is way ahead
of America in some respects. Today in japan, the bathing custom of clean-
ing the body outside the tub and then soaking for fifteen to thirty minutes
in the tub nightly is still the norm, but the new tubs have all sorts of addi-
tional features-heating units, vibrators, bubble producers, earphonesfor
music. In the opinion of this author, the lapanese are probably the most
sophisticated bathers in the world, a tradition and custom that America is
only beginning to emulate.
America has very little to contribute to bathing from a historicalstandpoint.

However, as an interesting point, 1968 saw a new development-the inven-
tion of a whirlpool bath, known as the jacuzzi. This was a whirlpool bath
developed by a man named Roy Jacuzziand shown first at a county fair as
a therapeuticitem for underwater massage, aconcept that rapidly expanded
into the whirlpool and hot tub rage that started in California in the 1970s
and then expanded throughout the United States. To this day,people erro-
neously call anysort of whirlpool tub a Jacuzzi when, in fact, it wasonly one
type of whirlpool bath. As you will see in a moment, the lacuzzi is quite
limited in scope in comparison to the hydrotherapy tubs thathave come to
us from Europe.
FIGURE 3-1 Hydrotherapy tubs are designed with n d t i p l e air and water jets that c m be operated
at different pressures.
keep the water warm. Hottubs gained popularityin the late 1970sand 1980s
and carry a connotation of partying and relaxation for fun. Hot tubs nor-
mally hold multiplepersons.
Hydrotherapy tub is the ultimate in water treatment devices and the
primary devicediscussed in this chapter. This is a tub specifically designed
with multiple airand water jetsfor personal use (oneperson at a time only)
and customized baththerapies (Figure3-1).The tub, depending on the manu-
facturer, may have between 30 and 150 or so jets for air or water, strategi-
cally located in the tub and often pressure controlled in groups for different
therapeutic purposes. Hydrotherapy tubs most often have an additional
device, calledthe underwater massage hose, and attachments for under-
water massage. The versatility of the hydrotherapy tub makes ita superior
day spa piece of equipment. These tubs are quite expensive and require a
wet room. They may not be appropriate for the beginner or a small opera-
tion. See the showers in the next chapter for alternatives.
Normal bath can be used for all the aspects of water treatment al-
though a regular bathtub is not normally recommended for professional
use. Tub treatments for home use will be discussed later, but even a plain
tub can have whirlpooladditions or bath additives, making it another viable
form of hydrotherapy.
............................................
SPA POINT
Whether offering plain water treatment or a her6al6ath or a thalassotherapy
treatment, the ultimate device for use is the hydrotherapy tub. This provides a
very effective, versatile treatment capa6ility forthe individual client taking the
treatment. Keep in mind the expense and space requirements.
............................................
CHAPTER 3 Baths and Bathing I9
WHO TAKES THE BATHS?

As we know from history, bathingor taking tub bathshas been a custom of
people from all over the world. Althoughin modern America men tradition-
ally take showers and women take baths, in reality emperors, kings, physi-
cians, and even politicians have taken baths. It has been said that Winston
Churchill took two baths a dayto relax and clear his mind. Bathing in a tub,
therefore, should not be considered a treatment only for women. A hydro-
therapy tub treatmentis viable for everyone-men, women, and children. It is
interesting to consider thatin a 1986 Psychology Today article,some of the fam-
ily stress was attributed to the lack of enough bathrooms in the home. In
house building today, the bathroom has become an important part of the
“selling”of the house and often there are more bathrooms than bedrooms.
Hydrotherapy baths are recommended for medical purposes as well as
for health maintenance.In the dayspa, hydrotherapy baths with or without
additives should be a big part of the overall well-being concept, and the
wise day spa owner will further the effects of the hydrotherapy tub treat-
ment by recommending baths at home as a follow-up, much in the same
way as selling certain productsfor use at home following a facialtreatment
in the salon. Consistent bathingat home will more effectively enhance the
results of the spa treatment.
WHAT HYDROTHERAPY TUB TREATMENTS DO

As will be reviewed often, water itself has a number of positive effects on
the body, particularly in tub treatments. Water...
... relaxes the body.
., , invigorates the body.
.. . improves strength
, ., strengthens the immune system
., , equalizes circulation and increases metabolism
improves digestion and elimination
enhances the penetration of other nutritional substances
(additives in water).
... relieves stiffness, soreness, and pain.
... increases muscletone and nerve functioning.
Warm to hot water lowers the blood pressure and pulls blood into the
extremities, slowing blood as it is redistributed back to the heart, lungs,
and central circulatory system. This is great for relaxation but may cause
light-headedness. This canbe dangerous for a clientwith a heart condition.
Through the improvement of circulation and elimination, we say that it
has a detoxifying capability;it actually enhances the body’sown detoxifica-
tion process. Thus it also has a calming and sedative effect onthe overall
system and promotes homeostasis (the balance and harmony of all sys-
tems in the body).
Who Should Not Take Persons with the followingconditions should notreceive hydrotherapy baths.
Physician’s release and instruction should be required.
Hydrotherupy Buths-
Contraindications 0
High or low blood pressure or heart problems of any kind.
0
Pregnancy.
Significant obesity.
Systemic or chronicdisease of any kind, especiallycancer, AIDS, hepa-
titis, diabetes, seizures, hypo- or hyperthyroidism.Do only under phy-
sician recommendation andsupervision.
Any infection or inflammatorycondition.
Vascular problems suchas phlebitis, varicose veins, ordiabetes.
Also keep in mind the following:
Do not offertreatment to any person under the influence of alcohol or
drugs.
Do not do treatment to persons immediately after they have eaten a
meal, particularlya big meal.Wait thirty minutesto an hour.
Although hydrotherapy is great for physical injuries suchas tendonitis
and sprains, be cautious and remember the effect of the lowering blood
pressure over 95 degrees E
Water agitated by jets cancause rashes or skin infections to spread. Do
not do in cases of rashes or infections.
Do not allow your clientto have very active exercise and then jump into
a tub. Have client cool down priorto entering tub.
Avoid prolonged time in tub, particularly if not accustomed to it. Work
time up from 5 minutes to 15 minutes to 20 or 30 minutes. Persons 65
years or older should be limitedto 5- 10 minutes at a time.
Treatment should be discontinued and client removed from tub in any
and all cases of light-headedness,nausea, dizziness, heart palpitations,
chest discomfort, headache, if having hot and cold chills, and in any
other questionable condition.
Depending on the treatment, the client should not shave or wax any
area for two days prior to treatment.
CHAPTER 3 Baths and Bathirrg 2I
............................................
SPA POINT
Although the contraindications mentioned may sound daunting and frighten-
ing at first, they are reallyjust normal common sense issues, most of which are
applicable even for a facial treatment. The difference and importance in cau-
tion lies in the factthatyouare MOW treating the whole person and water
therapy is quite active. The benefits and pleasures of hydrotherapy far out-
weigh the inconvenience of the contraindications. They must, however, not be
ignored or forgotten.
. . ..........................................
I. There is no other more important situation in day spa treatments than
Rules of the Tu6 in hydrotherapy and particularly tub-related treatments to have a good
client health history. Before the client even has any type of body treat-
ment, but particularly when hydrotherapy is involved, this history is
imperative to protect the client as well as the technician and day spa.
There is very littlecause for concern overall,but it is important to know
the contraindications mentioned previously and proceed carefully, es-
pecially when the client is new to hydrotherapy.
2 . The client should not have a hydrotherapy tub treatment immediately
after eating or strenuous exercise. Wait 30 minutes to I hour after eat-
ing and 15-20 minutes after strenuous exercise. You must not do any
hydrotherapy treatments on clients after they have consumed alcohol.
3. It is also important that when the clientis about to have a hydrotherapy
tub treatment that he or she be reminded to use the restroom before
treatment. It is very common to have to stop a treatment midcourse to
allow the client to use the facilities
anyway, but it is always a good idea
to go before.
4 The client should undress and if possible take a quick warm shower
before entering the tub room. I f a shower is not possible, be sure the
client is comfortably robed after undressing.You do not want the client
to get a chill.
5 I f the client has never had any type of treatment, whether to wear a
bathing suit or not should be discussed. It is much better and more
effective todo any and all body treatments and hydrotherapy treatments
with the clientnude. The client must feel comfortable, and draping, rob-
ing, and averting eyes at specific times is important.
6. After all hydrotherapy treatment, the client should be given water (fla-
vored waters are good) or juice to help replenish the potassium lostin
treatment. Orange juice is probably the best.
7. During the hydrotherapy tub treatment, a cool cloth can be applied to
the client's head. Do not use ice cold cloths as they may cause a head-
ache. I f the client becomes thirsty offer cool, not cold, water.
8. Under no circumstance is the client to be left entirely alone during a

tub treatment. He/she can overrelax, fall asleep, faint, and drown! If
you leave the room, do so only momentarily and then stand by.
9. This will be discussed more fully in Day Spa Operations, but it’s vital to
purchase a tub with a power draining system, to have good enough
drainage in your plumbing system to have the tub drain very quickly,
and to have a hot water heater adequate for your needs. Many day spas
have only 60-gallon tanks, which is often not enough. Consider 100-gal-
Ion tanks.
Tu6 Temperatures Although, as previously discussed, cool and cold waterare invigorating and
highly recommended for treatment, the practical reality in day spas today
in America is that the typical clientis very averse to cold treatment at all. It’s
quite common in spas in Europe to combine hot and cold therapy as a
matter of course, but when the same concept is done on the inexperienced
spa goer in this country, you will find great resistance and often a very
dissatisfied client. Cold water therapyshould be offered with caution and
only to the experienced spa client and should be discussed in advance. So
in simple terms, keep the water warm!
WATER TEMPERATURES IN DEGREES F

Cold Bath: 50-70
Cool Bath: 70-80
Tepid Bath: 80-94
Warm Bath: 94-98
Hot Bath: 98- 105
Extremely hot baths for the very healthy and experienced person may
go as high as 115- 120 degrees F, but is not normally recommended because
anything over 105 degrees can cause the blood pressure to plummet and
seriously stress the heart (at95 degrees the blood pressure begins to drop).
An ideal range would normallybe in the mid-90s (between 93 and 95) with
nothing over 100 degrees for the inexperienced.
Your tub may register the temperature on a meter or you may wish to
have a water thermometer (Figure 3-2). Another method of checking the
client would be to use a pulse rate measurement on the client. Some tubs
come with a pulse rate meter where the client canhave a band attached to
FIGURE 3-2 Water temperatures in
the finger, The maximum pulse rate suggested would be no more than 120.
hydrotherapy tubs are controlled by This method isn’t always accurate. Therefore, it is important to stay with
meters. the client duringtub treatments and be sure the client is comfortableand is
CHAPTER 3 Baths arld Bathirlg 23
not getting overheated or light-headed or developing a headache. In any

case where this might happen, the trealment needs to be discontinued.
Also remember that if the tub has air or water jets, as the water is circulated
the temperature will increase, so watch the temperature during treatment
and add cold water to the tub as necessary to maintaina comfortable mid-
90 degrees.
SUMMARY OF TUB TEMPERATURE

Average temperature should be kept at mid-90 degrees, around 93-95.
Nevergoover 105 degrees
Temperature increases with air and water flow in tub. Watch meter and
keep temperature down.
Lower temperatures are better for the inexperienced
Light-headedness is a strong sign to discontinue treatment.
............................................
SPA POINT
Although many people think they want a very hot 6ath, tcmperafures over 105
degrees F can cause a serious drop in blood pressure and stress O M the heart.
Ideal temperatures for a 60th should 6e around the mid-90s /or safety and
relaxation.
............................................
Treatment Times The length of treatment time in a tub varies according to a number of is-
sues, the main one being the goal of the treatment. If the treatmentis simple
with little or no additives tub time in a tepid to warm tub can be up to 30
minutes. I f , however, thetub is hot, additives are highly active, underwater
massage is going to be performed, or other treatments will follow, time in
the tub should be drasticallyreduced. Although treatments are offered only
to healthy persons, even the novice healthy personcan easily become light-
headed; thus treatment times shouldstart low and be increased according
to the client's comfort level. Initially, most treatments are safe for 15 min-
utes, gradually increasing to 30 minutes maximum.
For textbook normalization, the rest time after tub time should beequal.
That is to say,if the personis in the tub for 30 minutes, then resttime should
also be 30 minutes. In the day spa environment, this is difficult, if not im-
practical to expect. Therefore, rest time combined with consultation or
booking another service afterwardsis the safest answer to clientbalancing.
Beginners and persons over 60 years of age with normal health histories
should start between 5-15 minutes. Highly healthy, active, well-exercised
individuals may begin with 15-20 minutes working up to 30 minutes within
three treatments. In most situations baths could be done daily, but it's more
realistic to assume a client will take a bath once in a while if just for relax-
ation. I f the goal is for slimming or anticellulite, then a frequency of 2-3
times a week is much more effective.
TUB TIME
First to third times: 5- 15 minutes
Inexperienced, over 60 years old: 5- 15 minutes
Generally healthy/active: 15-25 minutes
Experienced: 20-30 minutes
ALTERNATING BATHS
Generally speaking, warm baths are relaxing, cold baths are stimulating.
Alternating warm and cold baths are a great form of therapy but the time
for the cold bath should be much less than the warm bath. As a safe ex-
ample, 1 minute of very cold to 5 minutes of warm or 2 minutes of cool to 6
minutes of warm is ideal to maintain the stimulus without letting the cold
faction depress bodily functions. Be very cautious about going back and
forth between warm and cold baths, especially when the temperature dif-
ferential is great.
............................................
SPA POINT
Alternating warm and cold is pro6a6ly the ideal situation 6ut not practical
most of the time in America /or the inexperienced spa goer. Temperature is
critically important to achieve the results of the treatments without depressing
or enervating the 6ody. From a safety standpoint, lower warm temperatures
are always safer.
............................................
AIR AND WATER JETS
Each manufacturer should educate you specifically on the proper use of
that tub. There are many variations in options and the best instructor will
be the manufacturer. Keep the following in mind.
In some tubs, the addition of air and water jets quickly increases the
water temperature. Watch the temperature gauge carefully.
All jets should be well covered with water before being turned on to
avoid sudden splashes of water out of the tub or taking the chance of
ruining the motor.
Client should enter the tub without any jets on a t all. I f applicable,
the jets should then be pointed to the specific areas planned for
concentration.
Before turning on the jets, the client should be informed on what to
expect and which jets are coming on. Then normally air jetsare turned
on first to cause an overall bubbling, invigoratingsensation. Be sure the
client is holding on to the handles for balance and support. Most tubs
CHAPTER 3 Baths and Bathing 25
also have foot bars to help keep the client in position. Be sure all posi-
tions are explained prior to turning jets on.
Water jets are then strategically turned on accordingto aplan if the tub
has this capability. In most cases, water jets are startedworking from
the feet to the back of the neck. Jetsthen run for the specified amount
of time. Normally the time in a 30-minute treatment is about 10 min-
utes. Then additives or underwater massage is the nextstep. Then once
again the client relaxeswith the jets bubbling for the last10 minutes.
WARM UP: 10 minutes, jets alone

TREATMENT: 10 minutes, bathadditives and/or underwater
massage
COOL DOWN: 10 minutes, add cool water and tone down.
For the inexperienced client, cut timein half.
.......................................... ..
SPA POINT
The highlight of having a professional hydrotherapy tubis the wonderful features
of air and water jets and all the combinations of treatment that can be accom-
plished. Do not, however, overdo the treatment, and remember thatjets thecause
the water temperatureto increase. The turbulence of the water can also be very
enervating to the client,so close watch over the client is imperative.
............................................
UNDERWATER MASSAGE
The hose and attachments vary from one tub to the next. The overall
goal of hose usage is to perform underwater massage (Figure 3-3). Al-
though a client could possibly manipulate the hose by him- or herself,
this is never recommended. This is strictly a professional treatment for
the knowledgeable technician. Underwater massage can be used for the
following purposes.
I . Underwater massage provides water resistance for passive muscle ex-
ercise to strengthen weak muscles or tone up muscles, increase or re-
store joint motion, clean and
stimulate the healing of burned flesh, and
aid in muscle function.(Avoid these medical uses.)
2. Underwater massage is a very effective stimulant forthe breakup and
dissolution of cellulite. Multipletreatments are required.
3. Underwater massage will increase circulation and stimulateskin function.
FIGURE 3-3 An underwater hose can direct pressure at specific parts of the Oody for targeted
massage.
4. Providing the technician has been trained in manual lymph drainage,

the hose may be usedfor a mechanical underwatermanual lymph drain-
age massage, often called aqua drainage.
5. Underwater massage feels very relaxing and invigoratingto the client.
6. The swirling of water over the legs, arms, and back provides the entire
person with a sense of well-being (Figure34).
FIGURE 3-4 Clients can relax in a
hydrotherapy bath as the water swirls Depending on the goal of treatment, specific hose training should be pro-
over and massages their entireh d y . vided by the manufacturer.
Use of the Hose Be sure the hoseis placed well into the lower part of the water before it is
turned on and be sure to have a good hold on it. If the hose escapes the
technician's hand while on, it may fly and splash everywhere, notto men-
tion the danger of hitting and injuring the client. Throughout the treat-
ment, the hose must be kept underwater. Also always keep the nozzle
pointed in the direction of flow, toward the heart. Keep fingers of the
hand holding the nozzle over itto gauge pressure. The pressure from the
hose should be at a comfortable level for the client. (The manufacturer
should make specific recommendations.)
The underwater massage normally begins at the bottom of the foot
and slowly proceeds with smooth, comfortable,circular movements.Gen-
erally speaking all movements work toward the heart (Figure 3-5). The
amount of time for the underwater massage should be between 5 and 10
minutes, no more than 15 minutes. This is very active exercise and can
easily tire the client.
5. I f the abdominal area is to be done, great care must be taken. It is nor-

mally the last area to bedone, and the pressure shouldbe lowered. The
movement for the stomach should bein a clockwise direction beginning
a t the lower left-hand side of the stomach and moving gently and slowly
in a square following the flowof the colon around the navel. When the
right lower corner is reached, the hoseis lifted and replaced at the start-
ing point. Do not make a full circle. This causes backward movement in
the lower middle quadrant and canbe very uncomfortable for the client,
Underwater Massage In additiontothecontraindications for tub treatments in general,the activ-

ity of the underwater massage greatly stimulates the system. Therefore,
Contraindications this should not be done in any questionable health issue, on anemic or
systemically weak persons, chronic systemic diseases, vascular problems
(varicose veins, phlebitis, hemophilia, diabetes). Watch the client's blood
pressure or comfortlevel a t all times, and should light-headednessor over-
heating occur stop treatment.
TUB TREATMENTS
In general there are three major categories of tub treatments available:
1. Plain water baths-no additives,with or without underwater massage.
2. Thalassotherapy baths-additives of seaweed, seawater, sea salts, and
sometimes sea mud.
3 Aromatherapy or herbal baths-additives of herbs or essential oils
As you have already learned, even a plain bath has tremendous effects.
However, the addition of seaweed or aromatherapy essences can tremen-
dously enhance the bath. The combination of seaweed, salts, and essential
oils is also very common. The decision of what to put in the bathsis a matter
of personal preference, experience, or manufacturer recommendations. There
can be hundreds of combinations. Depending on the number of essential
oils you carry,the combinationscan be endless. Seaweed, seawater,and sea
salts vary in composition according to the supplier as well so choose the
sea-based product according to the manufacturer's recommendation.
The additives should beput in after the client has relaxedin the tub for
5 to IO minutes unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer. Proper
amounts should also be designated by the manufacturer, so the sugges-
tions that follow will not specifyamounts. Keep in mind that there may also
be other additives such as mud or milk, but these are less common.
As an aside, for those who are intriguedby Kneipp baths and concepts,
his overall concept was based on the idea of alternating cold and warm
baths. For various baths, he used hay flower to open pores and to dissolve
toxins. This was his all-purpose bath. He also used oat straw for kidney and
elimination problems and pine sprigs for strengthening the blood vessels
and for aged people. He had numerous combinations. Today the Kneipp
Corporation offers a number of different bath combinations and products.
CHAPTER 3 B a t h and Batfiing 29
Thalassotherapy
Seaweed baths increase metabolism and blood circulation, activatethe ex-

changes of substances in the body, and increase the elimination of toxins
and waste materials. Seaweed is high in Vitamins A, B,, B2, BI2,C, D,E, and K
and helps reenergize the whole body. The mineral salts act on cell vitality,
help in skin moisturization, andassist in smoothingand retexturizingthe skin.
The iodine in seaweed can facilitate the slimming process and works like
thyroid to help activate metabolism, circulation,and revitalization of cells.
Seaweed in baths also facilitates the relaxation of muscles (Figure3-7).
25,000 different types.
RELAXING BATH
Blue-green: Spirulina
Brown: Fucus, Ascophyllum nodosum
Red: Chondrus, Corallina
Spirulina is rich in vitamins and beta carotene and is effective to reduce

fatigue and stimulate metabolism.
Fucus and Ascophyllum nodosum are rich in vitamins and amino acids to
relax and to neutralize free radicals.
Chondrus and Corallina are both remineralizers and revitalizers.
FIGURE 3-7 Mix dry seaweed and water and pour into the bath.
INVIGORATING BATH
Spirulina
Blue:
Brown: Lawinaria, Fucus, Macrocystis
Green: Chlorella
Laminaria is rich in minerals and amino acids to increase metabolism

and may stimulate thyroid activity.
Fucus and Macrocystis have high iodine content to also stimulate metabo-
lism, and the high potassium content remineralizes the body and playsan
important role in cellular transport.
Chlorella contains iron, vitamin B,, chlorophyl, and nucleic acids. It is
used for its regenerating effect and stimulation of circulation.
These seaweeds may be chosen alone or combined as desired. Most
manufacturers will have already combined various seaweeds for your use.
Normally one bath utilizes 4-6 ounces of seaweed in powder form. Pow-
ders should be mixed with warm water in a bowl and then added to the
bath. If underwater massageis also to beperformed, reduce the amountof
seaweed so as to be able to see through the water.
Arowatherapy Bath Asyou will learn in chapter 6, the hundreds of essences availablecanmake
treatment very complicated. However, it‘s best to start with just a few and
learn as you go. Although you may wish to add four or more essential oils,
it may be a better idea to use only three initially until youhave a good
understanding of the effectsof aromatherapy. Some essential oils can coun-
teract others. Additionally, since these are aromatic essences, each techni-
cian has her own favorite combinations.
The followingcombinations include morethan three oilsin some cases,
so please combine three of your choice. The general acceptable amounts
of oils for baths would be 10-30 drops if the essential oil is in a carrier oil
and no more than IO drops of pure essences (Figure 3-8). Do not exceed
this amount unlessyour manufacturer specificallysuggests otherwise. The
following combinations are only suggestions. You may also wish to follow
the chart and information from chapter 6 for other combinations. Also, re-
fer to your manufacturers for specific recommendations.
RELAXING: lavender, clary sage, melissa, ylang ylang,

bergamot, chamomile
STIMULATING: rosemary,thyme,lavender (good for toning),
pine, cypress
SOOTHING: chamomile,
jasmine,
geranium,
rose
MOISTURIZING: orange blossom, neroli, patchouli, lavender
CONTOURING: pine, thyme, camphor, juniper
32 SalonOvation’sDay SpaTechniques
7. Sometimes at this point the water is cooled down a little for the last 10
minutes of the treatment. This will depend on the treatment, condition
of the client, and so forth. The client‘scomfort and how he/she feels
should be inquired about periodically during the 30-minutetreatment.
End of the As stated already, if theclient

isn’t having another treatment, the
ideal
situ-
Bath Treatment ation is to rest for a time equal to the treatment time, This isn’t practical in
most day spas so the ideal situationis to have the client receivesome treat-
ment after the bath-manicure or hairstyle or a full-body massage. I f the
client only has a bath, t r y to use the resting time to educate the client on
home care proceduresand products.
PROCEDURE
1. When the bath is completed after the cooldown time, thewater and air
jets should all be stopped.
2. The client stands and sits on the edge of the tub facing the inside of
the tub.
3. Slowly the client swings legs over the edge with the technician’s help.
Be sure to have a towel on the floor so that the client doesn’t slip.
4. The technician wraps the client in a robe. Do not bother drying the cli-
ent with towels. The robe should be put on over the wet body.
5. The client is then escorted to the rest area or restroom. Then the cli-
ent is given a small glass of juice or water to sip slowly. Juiceis good.
The client is then consulted with and products are discussed. I f an-
other treatment is to be done, this process will be done at the end of
all treatments.
CLEANING THE TUB ANDROOM

Although this will be covered also in another chapter, it must be stressed
that hydrotherapy tub treatments are only as good as the sanitation and
hygienic practices in the spa. The tub must be cleaned and disinfected be-
tween each client. This doesn’t just mean to drain the tub and wipe it out.
Remember, there are jets in the tub and these must also be cleaned out and
then the whole tub rinsed and dried. The room should also be sanitized
and wiped down with a towel. The floors should be sanitized and dried.
This is a must for a successful operation. I f this is not done, clients will soon
discontinue having treatments and may even begin talking badly about the
general hygiene in the spa. if you want a hydrotherapy tub and intend to
make it successful, the cleaning importance cannot be stressed enough
and employees must know this well at the outset.
Synopsis Hydrotherapy is the pinnacle of day spa treatments. The hydrotherapy tub
may be expensive but it will also offer a versatility and sophistication of
CHAPTER 3 Buths arld Batliirlg 3 3
treatment no other modality will offer. The physiological benefits of hydro-

therapy are in relaxation, metabolic improvement, relief of fatigue, detoxifi-
cation, skin conditioning,and stress relief. There are also cautions that must
be kept in mind. But the most exciting aspect of hydrotherapy lies in the
ability to grow and continue learning and to help the client onan ongoing
basis for many many years. The psychological benefits are too numerous to
mention, not only for the client but also for the technician.It's a wonderful
therapy with history, efficacy,and great pleasure.
1 How do weknow that the Romans were famous for bathing?

Review
2. WhowasRoy lacuzzi?
3 What is the difference between balneotherapy and thalassotherapy?
4. What makes a hydrotherapy tub specia;?
5. List three contraindications to hydrotherapybath treatments
6. What is the ideal temperature range for tub treatments?
7. What does underwater massage do for the client?
8. What are the three major categories of tub treatments?
9. Name two seaweeds recommended for use in tub treatments
IO. Name three essential oils used for relaxation baths.
CHAPTER 4
Showers
OVERVIEW
Showers of s o m e form o r another have existed since the beginning of
water usage. From the simplest form of pouring a cup of water over the
head to the sophisticated showers we have today, showers present an-
other form of hydrotherapy. Whether you realize it or not, every morning
or evening when you are taking your shower you’re actually having a hy-
drotherapy treatment. In fact, as we have discussed in chapter 2 o n what
water does for the human organism, a shower format for application of
water greatly enhances water therapy Many salons that don’t want to add
a shower but want to call themselves day spas are missing the quick and
effective benefits of a shower The plain shower you have in your home is,
in actuality, a form of hydrotherapy if you think of it that way and utilize it
for its fullest value. A salon desiring to convert to a day spa concept must,
at the very least, add a shower. The problem is that nobody gives much
thought to the shower since everyone h a s o n e at home, but there can be
much more to the shower than you think.
Then there are also the more sophisticated variations to the shower-
the Vichy shower, the steam shower, the Swiss shower, and others. Each of
these showers have similar functions and variations. The day spa may choose
to add o n e or all to the spa system according to needs and space require-
ments. The beauty of having several variations of showers lies in the versa-
tility and ability to do different treatments with each. So, let’s look a t how
each o n e may be used in the day spa.
............................................
SPA POINT
It’s amazing to consider the fact that a regular shower, similar to what everyone
has in their home, is actually a vital hydrotherapy device if used as such. The
shower is a basic requirement of a proper day spa.
............................................
THE REGULAR SHOWER

As stated, a regular shower is a must for a salon to convert t o a day spa in
the opinion of this author. The shower is used for a number of purposes.
When the client takes a quick shower prior to a body treatment, the pur-
pose of this is threefold.
1. To be sure that the client is clean. The client must use soap and really
cleanse.
34
CHAPTER4 Showers 35
2. Normally the initial shower will be a warm shower to prepare the client
for treatment by warming and relaxing muscles and tension. This warm-
ing has an important effect on the body and helps whatever treatment
is taking place after that work better.
3. It not only gives the technician the impression that the client is clean,
but also buys time to make the treatment area ready and customized
for this specific client.
The shower will be used to rinse off products from treatments, such as
seaweed, mud, and exfoliants. If a shower is the only water modality, its
importance will increase. The shower can be a place for hot o r cold show-
ers, or alternating hot and cold depending on the goal, short or long show-
ers depending on the treatment, or a combination. If the shower is actually
to be used as a specific treatment modality, it’s wise to get a shower head
system that allows for various water selections and pressures. The shower
head or hand-held hose will convert a simple shower to a water massage
device as well. The hand-held shower may also be used for local treatment,
for example, in a situation where there may be a sore joint or swelling you
may want the client to cold shower just that area for several minutes.
Rules of the Shower The shower must be cleaned, disinfected, and dried between clients. This
includes the shower, shower curtain, and floor outside the shower. Abso-
lute perfect sanitary practices will preserve your business. It’snot an extra,
it’s law so be sure that you inform new staff during the interview and be
sure it’sin the job description. They soon tire of this mundane job and then
you have a problem, unless you hire a person specifically for cleaning pur-
poses. This is not cost effective in a very small salon but is quite worthwhile
in a large salon. It’sbetter use of your employees t o have your technicians
working and selling from o n e client to the next rather than losing a product
sale because they need to clean the shower.
The only products allowed in the shower should be soaps, shower gels,
and shampoos that you sell. Do not put a bar of soap in the shower for
multiple person usage. If you insist on bar soap, be sure it’s the amenity
size (likethe soaps you receive at a hotel). The shower is not only a place for
the client to get clean and receive professional treatment, it’s actually o n e
of your best retail centers in the entire day spa. It will, of course, cost you
s o m e money because the client will use your product, but that’s exactly
what you want. Be sure the shower has your liquid soaps, sponges, or
shammy, and whatever else you want that client t o use. The dispensers you
find in health clubs are fine only if they are well labelled with your product.
The typical consumer thought about dispenser product is cheap. If you give
that impression, you’re in trouble. It‘sactually more impressive to use retail
size containers and refill them (yes, it’s a hassle, but the sales will prove it
worthwhile to you in short order).
Every time the client gets out of the shower, there should be a fresh new
clean bath towel. Do not make the client reuse the s a m e towel two or three
times. This is unprofessional and also gives a cheap impression. The bath
36 SalonOvation’sDay SpaTechniques
mat should also be changed after each client. In a spa situation, a towel
may be better and less expensive.
Don’t allow the client to be in the shower longer than you specifically
direct. Some consumers will stand in the shower for days before you can
get them out and thiswill throw you behind. You should stay with the client
and make conversation ordo something to keep them movingright along.
This rule will be true of all showers. Also, don’t let the client takea shower
that is too hot. Remember, very hot waterwill lower blood pressure and if
the client fainted in the shower, you could have problems. Always remain
with the client while going to the showerand remain nearby while client is
in the shower.This is for safety as well a s to move the client along.
SHOWER TREATMENTS
Regular Shower WARM-UPSRINSES
AND
Always have the client showerinitially and shampoo the body to get clean.
Then the rinse time should be about 3 minutes to rinse well and also to
relax. Later, whenthe shower is being used to rinsea product off, the rinse
should beabout 5 minutes long.If the client hasbecome chilled from mov-
ing from the treatment area to the shower,allow enough timein the shower
for warming the body again.
T H E COLD SHOWER
A cold shower,as we discussed in previous chapters, is very invigorating.A
cool to cold shower can be used to invigorate the body and contract the
skin. The cold shower would normally be taken after the warm shower or
treatment as a finisher to rev up the system. If the client is in the warm
shower for 5-6 minutes, the amount of time in the cold shower would be
about 1-2 minutes. This is quite sufficient, I f you have a hand-held nozzle,
the cold shower can be directed at areas of swelling or soreness to comfort
those areas. Keep in mind you are not specifically medically treating the
area. The cold shower canalso bealternated with warm. In a regular shower
this is a bit difficult sometimes depending on the water heating/cooling
time. Other showers are more effective for this but if this is all you have, it
will work anyway, Maximum time for alternating hot and cold would be 12-
15 minutes, with the cold time being about one-third of the warm time.
RINSING
Using the shower for rinsing may take place as many as three times or more
during a treatment depending onall the steps to thetreatment, so it’s impor-
tant to make sure that the rinsing isdone quickly. Of course the first shower is
the cleansing shower when the client first arrives, and soap or shower gel
should be used. Thereafter, unless specified by the technician, rinsing is
done
without soapingup again. The rinse should normally be warm and done within
1 minute or so. While the clientis rinsing, the technicianwill be changing the
bed, preparing for the next step, and so forth. However,the technician should
always take the client to the shower and remain close by.
CHAPTER4 Showers 37
PRICE
Showers run $800 and up.
The Swiss Shower The Swiss shower is a wonderful addition to a normal shower cabinet or
stall. As sophisticated as the name implies,the Swiss showerof today is far
less complicated thanit was twentyyears ago. Just afew decades ago, the
Swiss showerwas often calledthe circular showerbecause the person would
stand inside what looked somewhat like a coil. Therewere sixto ten rows of
steel surrounding the bather with hundreds of holes in the pipes for the
water to come out (Figure4-1). The goalof the shower was and is to concen-
trate astream of water at common strategic areas.
Nowadays, thissame thing is accomplished by having pipes in all four
corners of the shower with eight to sixteen heads emanating from each
corner. Again the regions concentrated on would be divided into thirds,
with the upper row concentrated at the upper torso, middle rowto the stom-
ach/lower back region, and the lower row to the hips and thigh region.An
important thing to keep in mind about the Swiss shower is the fact that
since it's a therapeutic shower device, an overhead shower head is not nor-
mally part of the system. It is wise, however,to be sure theshower stall is
plumbed for a regular overhead shower as well in order to have double
duty with this tool. The best aspectof the Swiss showeris that it takes only
as much roomas is normally needed for a regular shower. The special treat-
ment aspect of the Swiss showeris the hot and cold alternatingtreatment
with pulsation capability. Normally, the client enters the shower, but the
FIGURE 4-1 The Swiss shower
surrounds the batherwith water. strength, temperature, and pressure is controlled by the technician from a
Streams of water can be concentmted to control panel on the wall outside the shower. The client merely stands in
specific areas of tfie 6ody. the shower and the restis handled from the technician's side.
Remember, as such the Swiss shower is for hydrotherapy, watertreat-
ment, and is therefore not really much used for a regular shower washing.
The main goal is water pressure therapy in a mild way. This adds tothe flair
of the therapeutic treatment and to the marketability of the shower. It's
really quite a nice shower and can easily be incorporated into packages
with add-on charges andvery little effort on the part of the technician.
............................................
SPA POINT
The Swiss showeris agreatassetbecause it can6eincluded in aregular
showerandaddstremendousdimension to thetreatment capability. It also
offers added benefitsby being able to alternate hot and cold water treatment.
............................................
RULES OF THE SWISS SHOWER
Client should not use immediately after eating.
Be sure the shower stall has handles on the wall for the client to hold
onto.
The shower temperature should alternate between warm and cold in
the same ratio as mentioned earlier. Temperatures must be comfort-

able andadjusted to each client.
Maximum time in the shower should be no more than 15 minutes. This
should be adjusted down accordingto thetolerance of the client.
The direction of the shower heads should be adjusted to the size of the
client. There's nothing worse than havinga short person in the shower
being pummeledin the neck with water.
The Swiss shower is normally marketed in conjunction with some other
service, not by itself. It can be, of course, but not normally.
SAMPLE TREATMENT
1. Client enters spa for treatment, undresses,and takes a normal cleans-
ing shower.
2. The technician then adjusts the Swiss shower andoperates thecontrol
panel with alternating warm/cool showering for 5 to 10 or 12 minutes.
The controls and temperatures should be trained specifically by the
manufacturer.
3. When the shower is completed,the client is removed, robed, and moved
to a treatment room where any number of treatments can be per-
formed. A simple combination would be the Swiss shower and 30-
minute massage. This makes a good one-hour overall treatment. If
the client merely wantsthe Swiss shower, apply a finishing lotion, dis-
cuss home care, and the treatmentis complete. The application of the
lotion will serve as the resting timethat should follow the hydrotherapy
shower treatment.
after accordingto the need. As an example, an anticellulite gel or cream may be applied prior to entering theand
shower
then the shower may facilitate the heatingprocess.
PRICE
Swiss showers normallyrun from $2,000 to $5,000.
TheVichyShower A favorite of this author, the Vichy showeroffers great marketability and
versatility to a wet room. As will be discussed in chapter 7, the wet room is
just that, a room that can become wet. The wet roomis normally tiled from
floor to ceiling, well drained, with lighting and ventilationto accommodate
steam and warming. In simple terms, theVichy shower is a horizontal rod
with holes to allow water rainingor cascadingfrom above the bed or table
(Figure4-2). The Vichy shower is situated about 4 feet abovethe bed, which
can also become wet, wherethe client is lying. Some spas use tiled tables,
but these arevery uncomfortable. Some use special water foampads over
metal that doesn'trust or plastictables.
CHAPTER 4 Showers 39
FIGURE 4-2 The Vichy shower rains water onto the bather as he or she lies on the bed or ta6le.
The Vichy shower can be usedas a rinsing device but it is really much
more. It is designed to alternate and pulsate hot and cold water. Thewater
pressure is such that the effect onthe client is a comfortable raining effect.
The water flow,temperature, and pulsation are controlled by the technician
from a control panel.This panel is normally at the end of the bed wherethe
pole emanates (Figure 4-3). The technician will often get somewhat wet,
and shoulddress appropriately to doVichy shower treatments. As with all
shower treatments, once the controls are set and the treatment is taking
place, the technician shouldstand close by, maybe notin the room to allow
the client to relax, but immediately outside. I t cannot be stressed often
enough that theclient is never left alone in hydrotherapy treatments. If the
lighting is subdued, with soft music, the raining effect of the shower is won-
derfully therapeutic and obviouslygoes well beyond just rinsing something
off the body.
Although a client can book justthe Vichy shower treatment alone, it is
better to combine it with a salt glow, mudtreatment,or seaweedwrap for a
number of reasons, the primary one being the need to rinse these sub-
stances off anyway, but also to more cost effectively use the wet room. Salt
glow, mud, and seaweed wraps are ideally done in a wet room to facilitate
removal anyway. The addition of the Vichy shower greatly enhances the
chargability of the service.
............................................
SPA POlNT
The Vichy shower makes a wet room salt, mud, or seaweed treatment a won-
derful experience as well as facilitating the removal of items with less effort on
the part oftheclient or technician.Theshowercan be usedmultipletimes
during the treatment.
............................................
CHAPTER 4 Showers 4 I
SAMPLE TREATMENTWITH VICHY SHOWER

1. Client enters spa, undresses, and takes normal cleansing shower. After
robing, client is taken to the wet room. Some wet rooms also have a
shower in the room, so the client may shower in the treatment room.
2. The technician then helps the client onto the table and instructs the
client about what is going to take place while helping him/her lie down
on stomach (if only the Vichy shower is being done, client will lie on
back).The head should be placed at the end of the shower where the
face shield is. The treatment product is then applied, for example, if
doing a salt glow, the entireback side of the body is salted (seechapter
9),then the client rolls overand the front side is salted.
3 . The Vichy shower is turned on and allowed to rain on the client for the
appropriate amount of time depending on the treatment. I f using just
to remove the salt, 2-3 minutes will be sufficient. I f the treatment is
combined and the Vichy is a charged service, the time will normally be
about IO minutes.
4. The client is rolled over onto stomach again and the Vichy shower pro-
cedure is repeated. Be sure all residue of salt has been washed away.
The hose on the Vichy shower will be used to rinse all final bits away.
The shower phase is completed for the salt glow. I f a mud or seaweedis
to follow, the shower treatment will be repeated for the removal of the
product but normally with less raining time. I f both salt glow and sea-
weed or mud are done, the Vichy shower time should be divided equally
out with a total Vichy shower timeof 15-20 minutes at most, Both along
with the Vichy shower can be done easily in 1 hour.
5 After the shower has been turned off, a finishing body lotion will be
applied to the back side, the client rolls over onto the back, and the
lotion is applied to the front side. I f a d r y room is available, it’s much
better to apply the lotion and massage it there. It is, however, a little
more time consuming, and uses more towels.
6 The client is helped to a sitting position and allowedto stabilizefor a few
minutes before getting off the table.The client isescorted to the restroom,
then to rest or next treatment area, given water or juice, and the next
procedure begins or the client is consulted on productsand treatments.
TREATMENT COMBINATIONS WITH VICHY SHOWER

Vichy Shower Treatment 6y Itself
Book 45 minutes. Client is on table for about 20 minutes. Finishing lo-
tion is applied and treatment completed in 30 minutes, and 15 minutes is
allowed for cleanup, changeover, sales.
Vichy Shower/Salt Glow

Book 1 hour. Client receives the salt exfoliation on front
side in about 15
minutes, back side about 10 minutes, IO minutes for the Vichy shower in
total, 10 minutes for lotion application. Total treatment time is 45 minutes
FIGURE 4-4 Annette Hanson demonstrates a salt glow treatment with the Vichy shower.
with 15 minutes for cleanup, changeover,sales. The client doesn’tturn over,
just side to side (Figure 44).
Vichy Shower/Mud or Seaweed

Book 45 minutes to 1 1/4 hours, depending on whether the treatments
are for the full body or partial body. The wrap time for most muds and
seaweeds is 30 minutes. The Vichy shower time will be 10 minutes. The
application and completion time will vary according to the area being worked
on. Final lotion application may take only a few moments in a spot treat-
ment or about 5- 10 minutes for a full body.
Vichy Shower/Salt Glow/Mud or Seaweed

Book 90 minutes. Allow 35 minutes for the salt exfoliation and 20 min-
utes for the Vichy shower and lotion application. The wrap timeis normally
30 minutes but may vary according to the manufacturer. Cleanup,
changeover, andsales time is usually the same.
c
removal time may vary according to the products. Consult the manufacturer for specifics. Combinations can be fatiguing
to the client. Again referto manufacturer aud experiencewhen combining more than two treatments.
PRICE
Vichy showers range from$2,000 to $5,000.
Even though the reference here will be a steam shower, this means also
The Steam Shower steam cabinets, steam rooms, and steam capability in the actual shower
itself-in other words, any environment of moist heat/steam capability. The

purpose of steam, as is well known throughout history,is to utilize the heat
and moistair to cause the bodyto perspire, thus facilitating the elimination
of toxins, stimulating circulation, and increasing respiration.Some people
can’t take much steam so steam treatment must be closely watched. The
opposite of moist heat, the sauna, will be discussed in chapter 12.
Although the sauna is almost a requirement of the destination spa and
health club,it is not oftena requirement of the day spa. Most modalities for
day spa treatment are more hydrotherapybased. Combining these modali-
ties with the sauna can often be too much for the average client. From a
treatment standpoint, it is also more effectiveto use showers andsteam in
conjunction with products than with the dry heat of the sauna, which can
potentially cause product irritation on the skin.
The steam room, shower, or cabinet is a very popular treatment, from a
relaxation standpoint as well as to clear sinuses and respiratory conges-
tion. Warm, moist heat for short periods of time is also great for the skin.
However, prolonged time in steam will cause the heat to overpower the
moisture and the skin may become dehydrated. When the steam shower,
cabinet, or room are used in conjunction with the various showers, it’s im-
portant toapply hydrating products to the skin duringand after treatment.
Steam showers, cabinets, or rooms are great to use prior to the body treat-
ment or as a treatment by itself. I f the client comes onlyfor the steam then
it might be a good idea to be sure that at least a lotion is applied after the
steaming to rehydrate the skin and tie product sales to the treatment.
From a cost standpoint, it is more cost effectiveto have a steam shower
than a steam room and it also prevents the client from beginningto equate
your day spa with a health club. Your main goal is treatment, not self-
relaxation after rigorous exercise. A good modality to follow steam is a
cool shower orother showers with cold capabilities unless product appli-
cation follows. I f product application follows, the cool to cold treatment
is not recommended at this point unless the client is overheated.
RULES OF THE STEAM SHOWER

Client should not use immediately aftereating.
The steam shower must be cleaned regularly and no mold can be al-
lowed to grow anywhere.
I f using essential oil infusions in conjunction with the steam, be cau-
tious and keep the amount of infusion quite mild. Steam accelerates
the effect on the body. A little goes a long way. Eucalyptus and cam-
phor are commonly used, but be cautious and don’t mix with each other
or with other essences.
The time in the steam shower should be kept about the same as the
Swiss shower, dependingon the treatment following. If the treatment is
only the steam, maximum time at about 105 degrees should be 10-15
minutes. Inexperienced and elderly clients should stayin the steam no
more than 5- IO minutes.
SAMPLE TREATMENT
1. Client enters spa, undresses, and enters steam shower. If using steam
cabinet orroom, the client should takea regular cleansing showerfirst.
2. If the client is getting only the steam shower, it’swise to alternate hot
and cold therapy-a few minutes in warm steam, a minute in cool
shower-back and forth 2-3 times. Eliminate cool step if the steam
shower is a prelude to other treatments.
3. Upon completion of the steam shower, the client either
proceeds to the
treatment or should be rubbed down with lotion and then counselled
on what to do at home.
PRICE
Varies greatly depending on how made, but normally from $1,200 to 2,000.
............................................
SPA POINT
Do not consider the steam shower as one does in a health club. The steam shower
should, in reality, be used in conjunction with another treatment to heighteM the
effects and to keep it up to the par of a day spa concept.
............................................
Scotch Hose Some people refer to the Scotch hose also as a Scots shower, or by some
as a Galien jet. They are the same. A Scotch hose is an exciting modality
and rather different.The concept behind treatment with a Scotch hose is to
target a strong stream of water at specific areas of the body to dramatically
increase circulation and elimination and break up fat deposits. The client
normally stands next to a wall holding onto handles attached to the wall
while the technician shoots water froma device similarto a fire hose from a
distance of 8- 10 feet away. Some manufacturers have various nozzles and
versions that require longer and shorter distances for spraying purposes.
Due to the strength of the water pressure and normal distances for treat-
ment, the Scotch hose requires more lengthwisespace in a room. It works
well in destination spa environments where space is not quiteas critical as
in a day spa where space may be severely limited. Therefore, in smaller day
spas, a Scotch hose may not be practical.
Another way to offer the Scotch hose treatment is to have a large wet
room with both the hydrotherapy tub and Scotch hose in the same room.
Obviously two differentpeople shouldn’tbe treated simultaneously, butif
the room is free either treatment could be done or a combined treatment
could be offeredto a single client. This will make the most of the cost of a
wet roomand the space needed anyway for a hydrotherapy tub. The Scotch
hose must be done in a wet room.
RULES OF THE SCOTCH HOSE

Be sure the water pressure and temperature are not too strong for the
client.
Explain the procedure to the clientin advance of treatment so that the

client knows you will be in the treatment room while he/she is naked. ( I f
desired, a bathing suit may be worn.)
Do not be too overaggressive in cellulite treatment. Slight numbness is
common for some people after a few minutes. Discontinue treatment
at this point or afterabout 5- 10 minutes.
Do not do a very long treatment on someone who finds standingdiffi-
cult or weakens easily under watertreatment. A person who is not very
healthy should be slowly integrated into this treatment beginning with
very short periods of time, 5 minutes a t the most, gradually increasing
as the constitution strengthens.
I f doing in conjunction with a tub treatment, you may want to do a
quick Scotch hose before and after the tub. I f ending with the Scotch
hose, a cool final splash is ideal.
SAMPLE TREATMENT
I . Client removes clothesand enters room. Technician should explainde-
tails of the treatment.
2 . The technician may choose to shoot water only at the back side or
both front and back sides. Client must stand with legs apart for steadi-
ness. Choice of starting on the front side or back side is optional.
Sometimes it is preferred to do the front so that the client can relax
more when the back side is done. On the other hand, if the client is
nervous or hesitant, it's better todo the back side first to relieve the
insecurities at the outset and then the client will feel more comfort-
able about the front side.
3. The client is sprayed overall to relax and warm the entire body. Then
with a stronger intensity, warm water should be sprayed at the specific
areas of slower metabolism, cellulite, or where want
you the water stimu-
lation to take place.The breasts and face should be avoided.The spray
may also be guided along with a proper lymph drainage movement,
thighs to groin,etc. The length of spray in each area should be no more
than 2-3 minutes a t most.
4. The hose shouldbe moved fromone area to thenext and backagain so
as not to concentrate too long in just one area. The entire duration of
the treatment should be about 10- 15 minutes at the most.
5. For the experienced or very healthy individual, the treatment may be
performed with alternating warm and cool water. Very hot and very
cold water should be avoided due to the potential shock to the
system.
The client shouldbe comfortable a t all times.
6 . Spraying should take place in a smooth movement from top of the head
to the feet if aiming at the back side. I f doing the front side, begin with
the feet and moveup to the shoulders avoiding the breasts and face. If
46 SalonOvation‘s Day Spa Techniques
specifically targeting the stomach and abdominalarea, the direction of

movement must bein conjunction with the movementof the colon, that
is, clockwise. After the overall smooth opening movements, the spray
can then be targetedto the areas of concentration.After a few minutes
on the concentratedareas, the treatment should endagain with a smooth
overall spray.
7 Some people also enjoy alternating hot and cold in this treatment as
well. I f doing both, end the treatment with a quick cold spray to finish
on an invigorating note.
8. Be sure the client is steady and feels fine at the end of the treatment
before proceeding to the tub or whatever treatment is scheduled next.
PRICES
Scotch hoses may vary from $2,000 to $4,000 depending on the number of
hoses and attachments. One hose alone may be sufficient for some needs
depending on other modalities available.
BLENDING HYDROTHERAPY MODALITIES

Each device that we’ve discussed has tremendous assets in the day spa.
At least one must be involved to truly call yourself a day spa with hydro-
therapy treatments. Water and a sponge in a bowl doesn‘t really qualify a
salon to be a day spa. It doesn’t mean that the salon can’t start offering
body treatments, but the difference in treatment capability is too great to
equate the two. Now, the difficulty is choosing which of these devices to
put in your day spa. This issue will be dealt with in Day Spa Operatious and
is a very important one. From a treatment standpoint,you will never use
every single device on the same day with any given client any more than
does an esthetician use every piece of facial equipment in a facial treat-
ment. The choice depends on the treatment, the client’s skin, the time
frame, and other variables.
The variables for choosing the equipmentare great. Space in an exist-
ing salon versus buildinga brand new day spa is a major consideration.The
very least you must have is a plain shower, the very ultimate is the hydro-
therapy tub and the restlie somewhere in between. Pleaserefer to Day Spa
Operatious and receive guidancefrom experts in the field on your particular
needs.
And finally, the critical issue to your success with hydrotherapy and wet
rooms is the sanitary procedures you employ. You absolutely must be im-
maculate, clean, sanitary, This means someone has to clean and sanitize
the room and equipment between everyclient. You must either hire an as-
sistant for this or besure your staff understands that this is part of the job.
Many technicians want to do treatments but refuse to clean up, or if it’s
required they get lazy and do a bad job. This can kill your business. D o not
forget to deal with this a t the hiring of an employee.
............................................
SPA POINT
There are many exciting devices to choose from, to combine to offer the best in
hydrotherapy and real day spa treatment. The choice and development of treat-
meflts is based upon budget and many other factors. Themost important [actor,
however, is thecleanliness and sanitary practices of the spa. Anunclean wet
room will hill the business without you even realizing it.
............................................
As has been demonstrated, water therapy is the crux of the day spa along
Synopsis with body treatments. From the basic shower to the most sophisticated Vichy
shower, the opportunityand convenience of having these tools serve to en-
hance the effectiveness of every treatment offered in the spa. They further
serve to save time, energy,and effort on the part of the technician when it
comes to efficacy of treatment and cleaning. With most product lines, you
can wash the product off with a sponge and bowl of water; it’s just not terri-
bly efficient and takes a great deal more time. The time conservation alonein
a short time will more than pay the cost of the installation of the equipment.
It is also the opinionof this author that you must be a professional in what-
ever you do. The showers at least keep you onthe cutting edge of profession-
alism. And finally, not to beat it to death, but the cleaning and sanitation of
the showers is tantamount to your success. if there is ever even a hint of a
question in a client’smind about whether they might pick up a virus or dis-
ease you’re on yourway out of business. You can’t let the thoughteven arise
and to avoid the problem, extreme sanitation is preferable.
Review 1. Why is a shower important in a day spa?

2. What is the difference between a regular shower and a Swiss shower?
3. Can a Vichy shower treatment be done by itself? Is it a good idea?Why?
4. What is the benefit of a steam shower/cabinet/room?
5. What types of treatments work well with a Vichy shower?
6. What is a Scotch hose? For what is it used?
7. Why is good sanitation so important with hydrotherapy?
CHAPTER 5
T O U C ~and Massage
OVERVIEW
In order to do body treatments, the ideal situation is to be fully trained in
the art of body massage. Depending on the state, a massage therapist li-
cense may also be necessary to do any type of body treatments. lt is the
responsibility of the technician to find out and obey all applicable laws.
For the sake of this book, a short introduction to massage concepts is
important for the person intending todo day spa body treatments and to
gain the trust and confidence of the client. It’s obviously necessaryalso for
the effective applicationof body products in treatments.
As has already been discussedin great detail, the novice clientto body
treatment needs as much reassurance as possible in order to get beyond
the shyness of body care. A good sense of touch properly placed at the
outset of treatment will go a long way in relaxing and reassuring the client.
Let’slook at how this mechanism of touch can help.
MECHANISM OF TOUCH
It’s interesting to just consider howwe use the word touch in our normal
everyday vocabulary.“Isn’tthat touching?”“I’m touched by what you said.”
“What a soft touch.”“The flowers madea perfect added touch to the look.”
“She seems so untouchable.”Sometimes we don’t realize how much the
word alone impacts our lives.
When it comes to the subjectof touch in general, we so often overlook
the profound impact it has on us all. In the next few paragraphs, 1 will be
excerpting information from a book called T h e Gift of the Blessiflg, by Gary
Smalley and JohnTrent, Ph.D., published by Thomas Nelson Publishers.
one night during a thun-
“A little four-year-old girl became frightened late
derstorm. After one particularly loud clap of thunder, she jumped from her
bed, ran down the hall, and burst intoher parents’ room. lumping right into
the middle of the bed, she sought out her parents’ arms for comfort and
assurance. ‘Don’t worry, Honey,’ her fathersaid, trying to calm her fears.
‘The Lord will protect you.’The little girl snuggled closer to her father and
said, ‘I know that, Daddy, but right now I need someone with skin on.”’
From the physiological standpoint, tremendous research has been done
in recent years on the effect of touch or massage on the human body and
mind. According to authors Smalley and Trent, a Dr. Dolores Kreiger, pro-
fessor of nursing at NewYork University, did a number of studies on the
effects of touch and revealed that the hemoglobin levelsof both the patient
and person touching goup during touch. As the hemoglobin levels go up,
48 body
the tissues receive
more
oxygen andperson
the is energized. Almost
CHAPTER 5 Touch and Massage 49
everyone is now aware that residents of nursing homes who have pets to
touch and hold have been shown to live longer and have better attitudes
than those without, clearly demonstrating another positive effectof touch.
Another interesting example cited in Smalley and Trent’s bookis of in-
terest. “A doctor we know, a noted neurosurgeon, did his own study on the
effects ofbrief times of touch. With half his patients in the hospital, he
would sit on their bedand touch them onthe arm or leg when hecame in to
see how they weredoing.With his remaining patients, he would simplystand
near the bed to conduct his interview of how they were feeling. Beforethe
patients went home from the hospital, the nurses gave each patient a short
questionnaire evaluating the treatment they received.They were especially
asked to comment on the amount of time they felt the doctor had spent
with them. While in actuality he had spent the same amount of time in each
patient’s room, those people he had sat down nearand touched felt he had
been in their room nearly twice as long as those he had not touched.”
............................................
SPA POINT
We don’t consider how influential the entire su6ject of touch is in our lives today.
The emotional and physical impact O M each of us is tremendous. The properly
placed touch can work wonders in relaxing a client, relieving stress, and creating
a sense of well-being. Touch is the foundation of a successful day spa.
............................................
HISTORY
Now, let’stake a brief look at history. Hippocrates,the Father of Medicine,
used massage extensively in healing, and touch,as in the “layingon of hands”
and “anointing”the body with potions and creams, has existed for nearly
five thousand years. Touch is discussed numerous times in the Bible and is
still an important part of many religious practices today. Thepeople of an-
cient civilizations of Egypt, Rome,Greece, China, and lapan have all used
some form of massage and touch to apply oils,creams, unguents, and per-
fumes not only to beautify the body but also to embalm the dead. Ancient
Romans had slaves carry oils in glass containers slung over their arms to
massage their masters on call.
During the course of history massage also had its times of popularity
and times when it fell almost into oblivion. With time and progress also
came confusion about massage and the methodology. Peter HenryLing of
Sweden (1776- 1839) probably made the greatest modern impact on mas-
sage development the world had seen up to that time. He is credited with
developing a systematic approach to massage that ultimately became the
internationally known Swedish Systemof Massage that we practice to this
very day. His system of massage introduced terms such as effleurage, pet-
rissage, friction, vibration, as well as rolling, pinching, and several other
descriptions. But it still wasn’t until the end of the nineteenth century that
massage began to really be favoredand accepted worldwide. Dr. Mezger of
50 SalonOvation's Day SpaTechniques
Holland (1839- 1901) helped achieve reputable recognition for massage in

England and parts of America. By 1900 in England, massage was finally
licensed by the Boardof Trade, and organizations regulatingit wereformed.
In America, however,the relevance of massage has been hardin coming.
Over the last two hundred years, massage was predominantly practiced by
women of ill repute and opportunists.On the respectable side, it seemed to
stay under the purview of the physiotherapistin a clinical setting. Fortunately,
over the last coupleof decades massage has finally begun to gain recogni-
tion as a viable relaxation and well-being therapyfor all Americans. Massage
therapy organizations and licensurehas finally begun to take place in most
states, and thepublic no longer scoffsat the ideaof getting a massage. There
are currently a number of research projects being sponsored by the National
Institutes of Health to further ascertain the benefitsof massage. By looking
back on history, we can see how long this practice has been a viable part of
our society.The trick nowis to bring itto common usagein beauty and health
maintenance for all people everywhere.
Touch and the Skin To better understand the mechanism of the skin and touch sensation, the
following is excerpted from my book published by Milady Publishing Com-
pany, Shiatsu Massage.
Without makingthis a texton the anatomy and physiology of the skin,
it's useful to consider the skin and its relationship to massage, not only
from the client's standpoint but from the technician's as well. Amma mas-
sage in japan was originally based upon the idea that a blind person was
best suited to massage because of the superior refinement of the sense
of touch. Touch is integral to the success of Shiatsu for both giver and
receiver.
Consider for a momenthow complex the largest organof the body, the
skin, is:
According to Milady's StaMdard Text6ook for Professiod Estheticiam, one square
inch of skin contains:
65 hairs
95- 100 sebaceous glands
78 yards of nerves
19 yards of bloodvessels
650 sweatglands
9,500,000cells
1,300 nerve endings to record pain
19,500sensory cells at the ends of nerve fibers
78 sensory apparatuses for heat
13 sensory apparatuses for cold
CHAPTER 5 Touch and Massage 5 I
160- 165 pressure apparatuses for perception of tactile stimuli

There aresensory nerve fibersin the skin that react to four basicsensa-
tions: pressure, touch, temperature (heat and cold),and pain. The sensory
aspect of the skinis what we deal with most in understanding how and
where the technician is to use pressure to perform the treatment and also
to understand the comfort andresponse levels of the client.
Within the skin are different sensory receptors that record the differ-
ent sensations,many of them named after the scientists who found them.
There are:
1. Free nerve endings-pain receptors from the many branches of nerves.
2. Ruffini endings-notablyheat receptors
3. Pacinian corpuscle-encapsulated endings normally located between the
dermis and subcutaneous layers that are receptorsfor deeper pressure.
4. Meissner’s corpuscles-common receptors for light touch that are lo-
cated in the dermis.
5. Krause’s corpuscles-heat receptors located in the upper area of the
dermis.
The previous relates tothese receptors a t skin level. In the deeper parts
of the body, such as the muscles and joints, the roles may be different or
overlap to a degree, and the additional Golgi tendon organ in muscle ten-
dons responds to provide information oncontraction, muscle stretch, and
passive and active tension of the muscle.
............................................
SPA POINT
With so m a ~ yreceptors io and OM our S ~ M the
, importam of massage and
touch cannot he overemphasized. The clieMt and techniciau as well will physically
G e ~ e f ifrom
t massage.
............................................
EFFECTS OF MASSAGE
From a purely practical standpoint and from a marketing standpoint, what
will massage do for the client? What are the benefits of massage that will
further facilitate the effectsof body treatments with products? Massage...
... causes an increase in the blood circulation and helps to improve
overall nutritional exchanges in the body.
., . improves the body’s own metabolism to facilitate absorption of
nutrition and elimination of wastes and toxins.
... can help relieve soreness and discomfort in muscles.
., , can help relieve mental and physical fatigue
a sedative effecton the nervous systemand relaxes, thus

. . . has
reducing stress.
. . . feels good and gives the clienta sense of well-being.
. . . improves skin texture and softness.
Client Consultation Now, beforebeginning any treatment, it’s important to talk with the client.
You must know if the client is having a treatment for the first time or is
Prior to Treatment experienced. This will be a critical factor in the client’scomfort level. I f it’s
the first time, you must discuss the fact that the client will be completely
covered and only the part of the body actually being worked on will be
exposed. Whether it be a massage or a body treatment, it’s important to
keep a few things in mind.
The client must be instructed on how to undress, what robe to put on,
how to lie on the table (face up or down and at which end of the bed).
Contraindications of treatment must be determined before the treat-
ment begins.
Client comfort and warmth is critical. Be sure to ask
Comfortable touch and pressure should be determined several times
near the beginning of the treatment.
I f possible and equipment isavailable,have the client shower before
the treatment begins. This will not onlyensure cleanlinessbut also warm
and begin to relax the muscles.
............................................
SPA POINT
Massage is an overall wellness and feel-better concept because the massage itself
can stimulate metabolis~zand blood circulation to increase nutrition aMd release
toxins and wastes from the body more efficiently.
............................................
Contraindications to Keep in mind that there may be a largedifference in thecontraindications
when doinga full massage versususing some effleurage (gentlestroking)to
Massage begin the application of products for a body treatment. Contraindications
for body treatment in general and for specific treatments will be more fully
discussed in another chapter. There are some contraindications that should
be mentioned for simple massageas well.
Do not apply pressure to any vascularized areas such as distended cap-
illaries in the face or varicose veins on the legs or other parts of the
body.
Do not do massage when the health of the client is in question,
particularly in cases of cancer, HIV active status, or any other chronic

systemic disease. Be sure to obtain a physician’s written release to
perform treatment.
Do not massage areas of open wounds, infection, inflammation, lumps
or bumps, or swelling.
Do not massage a client who is pregnant, particularly the abdomen,
in dealing with pregnancy.
without specific training
Do not massage in any situation when in doubt.
a
judgment when performing massage ona stranger in an environment whereyou might be alone. In many cases it is
better not to do a massage on a stranger. Or, you may choose to have someone with you on prewzises during that tiwe.
............................................
SPA POINT
Massage should neverbe done on anyonebut a normally healthy person. Chronic
disease, inflammation, swelling, systemic disease, vascular issues, and anything
questionable are always contraindicatedfor massage.
............................................
THE CLASSICAL EFFLEURAGE MASSAGE
As you will learn in a full course on massage, traditional Swedish massage
will include a number of movements. For this book, however, we will con-
centrate on effleurage as it’s the movement of choice in opening a body
treatment and for product application.
The purpose of effleurage is to open the treatment with a gentle touch
in a softstroking movement. Strong pressure is not desired in the opening
of a treatment. For simplicity of understanding, Swedish effleurage mas-
sage is generally performed toward the heart. That is to say, for example,
when doing the legs, the stroking will take place from the foot upward to-
ward the groin. Massage forthe arms will likewise be from the hand to the
axilla (armpit).
Assuming for a moment that you will be doing a full-body massage,
there are several schools of thought on where to begin and end the mas-
sage. There are no hard and fast rules and often it is merely a matter of
choice. Some technicians like to massage the front of the body firstto gain
the client’s trust and begin the relaxation process so that by the time the
back is done, the client will be completely relaxed. Others believe that it’s
better to dothe back firstto more quickly gain client confidence and relax-
ation. Either is fine, but for this book, the front of the body will be done
first. It is also important to know that depending on the body treatment
being performed, the order and approach may be quite different. For ex-
ample, in a full-body massage, once the front sideis done, the clientis asked
to roll over onto the stomach. When doing a slippery mud or seaweed treat-
ment, however, the clientis not asked to completely roll over dueto poten-
tial for the client to slip off the bed. So the order of movement from one
part to the next will vary as will be shown later. But for now, considering
massage only, the following gives a good general flow of one part to the
other.
Order of Massage
Client is lying on back with head a t the front of the bed or table.
1 . Foot of one leg
2. Move from foot to calf, knee, thigh
3. Move to other leg, do foot,calf, knee,thigh
4. Move to hand on same side of body
5. Move from hand to lower arm, elbow, upper arm
6. Move to other hand and do hand, lower arm, elbow, upper arm.
7. Move to top of head if doing head. I f doing head, do massage on scalp
then face.Then move to chest.
8. I f not doing head, move from arm to chest.Massage chest.
9. Massage back of neck
IO. I f desired and preferred by client, perform gentle massage on stomach
in clockwise direction only and upward fromlower abdomen to just
below rib cage.
Client now rolls over onto stomach
1, Again repeat back of one leg from foot to buttocks
2. Do other leg
3. Normally arms are not done again, but do back of arms if desired
4. Move to top of head and perform massage on scalp if applicable
5 . Massage back of neck again
6. Massage back
7. Massage upper buttocks if applicable
Performance of
Since thisis not a book on massage, we will not go into muscles, origin and
Massage in Relation to insertion of muscles, or the skeletal structure. As stated at the beginning,
Body Treatments all body treatments will be better with moreknowledge.Taking a course in
body massage is veryimportant, whether it's a short crash course or a full
licensing course. If you're an esthetician and have been trained in facial
CHAPTER 5 Touch andMassage 57
- i
FIGURE 5-10 Stroke fromthewristto FIGURE 5-11 Alternate effleurage on the FIGURE 5-12 Gently stroke the head, from the
the top of the arm. inside and outside of the upper arm. forehead to the crown.
11. If doing face,do effleurage as always done in facial massage.

12. If not doing head or face,
delete steps 10- 11. Move from arm to chest.
13. At the center of the chest just below the clavicle (collarbone),gently
make circular motionswith both hands from the sternum (center) out
to theaxilla (armpit).This should be repeated in rows from the clavicle
down to just abovethe nipple area (Figure 5-13).
14. Slide aroundshoulders and glideup and down backof neck and upper
The massage at this pointmay end off the shoul-
shoulders several times.
ders or earlobes.
15. Massage of the stomach/abdomen is optional. If doing stomach, be
sure strokes go from the lower abdomen upward and outward (Figure
5-14). No movement should go counterclockwisein order to maintain
proper directionalflow to colon.
Client turns over onto stomach and the back side begins.
1 Beginning withsame leg as previously, this time overlaphands and glide
from the ankle straight up the leg to the top of the leg just below the
buttocks. Reduce pressure at the point of the back of the knee as this
area is very delicate. The thigh will be done as on the front.After the
center row, one hand will support and one hand will glide upthe inside
and outside of the thigh (Figure5-15).
I
L
FIGURE 5-13 Withcircular

motions, massage the chest; avoid FIGURE 5-14 Stroke the stomach from the FIGURE 5-15 Using one hand, glide up the
the nipple area. lower abdomen upward and outward. inside and outside of the thigh.
FIGURE 5-18 With full hands, glide down the

center of the back with thumbs on opposite
sides ofthe spine.
FIGURE 5-16 Cover the entire back

of the head with massage. Fingers
should glide from base of the head to w
top of the head. FIGURE 5-17 Massage the back of the neck. FIGURE 5-19 Glide over the sides of the back.
2. Repeat other leg.

3. Normally arms are not done again, but if desired do stroking move-
ment in similar manneras on the back of the legs. Do not lift arms off
table.
4. If doing head again, allow fingers to glide from base of head to topof
head in several rows to cover entire back of head (Figure5-16).
5. Slide up backof neck several times (Figure 5-17).
6. The back has several movements. Begin with full hands gliding down
the center of back with thumbs on opposite sides of spine (Figure5-18).
Glide to base of back and slide out to the sides and back up to top of
shoulders, out over the tops of the arms and back to the center of the
trapezius (muscleat topof back in center) at the baseof the neck. Then
alternating hands, glide over the entire sides of the back (Figure5-19).
This can be done from a position at the head or by going to the side of
the bed. Then for the other side of the back, move to the other side of
the bed. Then once again slide downthe back and up the sides.
7. If desired and appropriate for the client, massage may be performed
on the upper buttocks. Firm pressure should be applied as hands glide
across the upper buttocks in a circular motion (Figure 5-20). Do not
FIGURE 5-20 Withfirmpressure,
allow the areas to flop around. Less movement of the cheeks of the
glide hands across the upper buttocks in buttocks is most comfortable for the client. Finally slide from the but-
a circular motion. tocks back upto the top of the back and off the shoulders.
Unless you’re a massage therapist, you won’t be performing a massage

Synopsis that flows from one movement to the next as described, but the actual
movements oneach body part are quite applicableto any body treatment,
including exfoliatingprocedures. A big difference in a body treatment where
a wrap is used will be wrapping two legs together first and then moving up
the body. This will be somewhat different as you will see later. Practicing
smooth movements and transitions from one place to another will defi-
nitely help you develop a good sense of touch and proficiency when comes
it
to adding treatments and hydrotherapy. The ability to perform all body treat-
ments will be contingent uponsmooth handling of the body as in the mas-
sage discussed previously. Also,there is deliberately no mention of other
massage movements such as vibration or kneading, as these movements
are not normally relatedto a body treatment.
1. What is so important about touch?

Review
2. What has research shown massage to do for both the technician and
receiver?
3. Who is considered to be the Father of Modern Massage?
4. Why has respectability for massage been hard in coming in America?
5. What are two effects of massage?
6. Why is client consultation important before a treatment?
7. What is a common contraindicationfor massage?
8. What type of movement will be used for massage as done in conjunc-
tion with body treatments?
AROMATHERAPY. THE SCOPE OF TRUE AROMATHERAPY GOES FAR BEYOND THE SIMPLICITY OF
THIS CHAPTER, WHICH IS DESIGNED TO OPEN THE STUDENT‘S EYES SOME, FACILITATE A
PRACTICAL APPLICATION O F CERTAIN OILS, AND STIMULATE FURTHER STUDY. PLEASE REFER
T O SALONOVATION’S GUIDE T O AROMATHERAPY, BY SHELLEY HESS, ALONGWITH IOEL
GERSON’S STANDARD TEXTBOOK FOR PROFESSIONAL ESTHETICIANS.
OVERVIEW
Aromatherapy, an ancient art and science but still new and exciting today,
plays a large role in the beauty industry in genera1 but particularly in day
spa treatments. The word aromatherapy means the therapeutic use of aro-
matic essences from plants in treatment for beauty and well-being (Figure
6-1). Even though aromatherapy concepts are new to many, the practice
may date as far backas five thousand years.
FIGURE 6 - 1 The aromatic essences used in aromatherapy treatments are from ffouw and plant
extractions.
HISTORY
The ancient Egyptians and Romans are renowned for their usage of essen-
tial oils in medicine and in the bath. Consider Cleopatra and her baths;
Hippocrates, who has been credited with using more than three hundred
plants in his cures along withmassage; or perhaps the famous story of the
60
CHAPTER 6 Ir~frotl~rcfior~
to Arornufhorupy 6I
Three Wise Men bringing gifts of gold, Irankincense, and m y r r h to celebrate

the birth of the Messiah, lesus Christ. Frankincense and myrrh are both
highly effective essential oils and were valued in Christ's time with gold or
any other precious material.We have many references to the anointingwith
oils throughout the Bible, suchas lohn l2:3, " M a r y , therefore took a pound
of very costly perfume of pure nard, and anointed the feet of Jesus,and
wiped His feet with her hair; and the house was filled with the fragrance of
the perfume."
The ancient civilizations highly valued essential oils (aromatic plants
perhaps) and used them for medicinal purposcs, for embalming the dead,
and for personal grooming. There were still remnants of perfume in con-
tainers buried in the famous tomb of King Tut when it was opened in the
early 1920s. How could a perfume last threc thousand years?Much is still to
be learned about the preservation and processing of essential oils from
thousands of years ago.
Moderu Development Skipping a couple of thousandyears or so. themoderndevelopment of

aromatherapy is quite interesting. We believe the term aromatlierapy was
coined by the famousFrench perfumer MauriceCattefosse,who also wrote
a book entitled Arowrathlrapie published i n 1028. t I C appears to be the origi-
nator of not only the word but also the practiceo f aromatherapy. Until the
1960s very little had been written about this subject since the 1930s. Dr.
Jean Valnet in his 1964 book, The Prucficc o\ Arowtutherupy (English transla-
tion of arowrathirapie) began to develop the concepts and practices of
aromatherapy as we use it today by treating war wounds on soldiers in
World War I I . Todaywemust credit a number 01 pioncers who in recent
decades have brought aromatherapy to thc great prominence it holds in
beauty therapy. Most of our knowledge a n d expertise has come to us from
England by experts such as Robert Tisscrand (author of excellent
aromatherapy books suchas The Arl of Arorm.Wrupg), Micheline Arcier, Eve
Taylor, ElisabethJones,and Shirley Price. Today, thankst o these and many
other people, aromatherapy is the most popular modality in natural treat-
ment for the face and body. Now, let's consider what it is.
............................................
............................................
ESSENTIAL OILS
Perhaps the word used for the extracts from plants, essential oil,was cho-
sen because what is used is the very heart anti soul o l the plant, or because
they were considered to be essential tolife, the "essence"of the plant. Es-
FIGURE 6-2 The very heart and soul of the plants and flowers are extracted to form essential oils.
sences may come from the flowers, stems, leaves, root, bark, or even the
entire plant (Figure6-2).These essences are extracted by a variety of tech-
niques that allow the purest, most aromatic essence to be used for per-
fumes, in aromatherapy, and in herbal medicine.
In many cases we don't really appreciate what ittakes to get an essential
oil. For example, Bulgarian rose oil is probably the most expensive in the
world at more than$1,000 per ounce.It takes thirtyroses to make one drop
of the oil or sixty thousand petals per ounce. Jasmine,another expensive
extract, requires eightmillion blossoms to get a two-pound yield. When you
see highly sophisticated perfumes and wonder why they're so expensive, the
answer is predominantly in the raw material cost. A couple of traditional ex-
amples are Joy, originallythe world's most expensive perfume, which is pri-
marily rose andjasmine. Chanel No. 5 is rose, jasmine, and vanilla. The flowers
and plants have to be selected and processedat specific times of the day,
month, and year, and the soil, area, country, weather, and climateare all con-
sidered. In actuality,the quality variationof essences is really quitesimilar to
that of the myriad of wines. There are hundreds, perhaps as many as 600-
800, of essences used todayin perfumes, aromatherapy, and medicine.
............................................
SPA POJNT
The "essence"of an essential oil is the life force of that ingredient,the most impor-
tant part of it (Figure 6 3 ) .
............................................
Processing DISTILLATION
Hot steam passes through the plant material causing the essential oil to
Essential Oils separate and evaporate along with the water. Afterthe distillant is cooled,
the essential oil is usually floating on the surface and can be separated
CHAPTER 6 Introduction to Aromatherapy 63
FIGURE 6-3 Essential oils and water mix well to form a beneficial treatment for yourclient.
easily. The remaining distillate wateris further saturated with the essential
oil to make toilet water. Examples:rose, orange flower.
SOLVENT EXTRACTION
Essences extracted through this process are called a6solutes. The plants are
mixed with a solvent and heated until the essence is dissolved in the sol-
vent. The solution is filtered leaving the essence behind. It is further pro-
cessed with alcohol to obtain the absolute. Certain flowers and plantsare
much better processed by this methoddue to the low heat factor. Example:
mimosa, benzoin.
EXPRESSION
This technique cold presses the oils out of a fruit or plant. The essence is
collected in a sponge and then squeezed out. Examples: citrus fruits.
ENFLEURAGE
This method is old and only used in very delicate situations. The flower
petals are spread across glass plates that have been covered with fat. The
plates are stacked and left for24-48 hours, then replacedwith more petals
until the fat is saturated. Then an alcohol solvent separates thefat and es-
sence. This process is very slow and can take up to a month or two. Ex-
ample: tuberose.
MACERATION
This method is similar to enfleurage but the flower petals or other parts of
the plant are saturated in hot fat instead of cold fat and then extracted.
Examples: various flowers.
How Essential The effect of essentialoils on humans is a complicated and notcompletely

understood phenomenon. Yet we know that plant essences can have a pow-
Oils Work erful, wonderful,and even toxic effect on the body depending on what and
how much is used. Essential oils affect the bodyin two predominant ways,
physiologically and psychologically. Physiologically essential oils can affect
the person through a number of applications: by ingestion (never recom-
mended in our industry),by infusions (use of a room diffuser),by bathing,
with compresses, and through topical massage of the skin. Essential oils
are lipophilic (attracted to oil) and have a natural affinity to the skin.They
are also normally very small in molecular size and can penetrate the skin
easily. For people who tend to disbelieve the theory of results from a topi-
cal application, t r y rubbing garlic oil on a person’s feet.Wait half to three-
quarters of an hour and you should be able todetect the odor on the breath
of that person. It is generallyaccepted that essential oilsare highly penetra-
tive and, as such, have a profound effect on the body. As a result, they are
often used as curatives in holistic medicine. Even though the scope of this
book is not for medical or curative purposes, it’s interesting to note how
essential oils can affect the system.
ACTION OF ESSENTIAL OILS

O n Skin
They can dissolve dead surface cells, increase cell turnover, stimulate
metabolism, improve texture,
add softness,give radiance, stimulate and tone.
O n Nervous System
They can calm, soothe nerve endings, cause a sense of euphoria, relax.
On Glands
They have a soothing and sedative effect, toning and stimulating; they
normalize glandular function.
O n Muscles
They can relieve fatigue, reduce soreness and stiffness, improve resis-
tance and elasticity of muscle.
O n Blood and Lymph
They can facilitate smooth flow, increase metabolism and elimination
of wastes.
In other words, essential oils can, and do, affect the entire body. It’s
imperative that you understand that they can also be toxic if too much is
used or for too long. The psychological effect is also physical to some de-
gree and quite interesting.
............................................
SPA POINT
We know that esseotial oils have a powerful effect O M the body. Garlic COM be
rubbed O M the feet aud theu detected iM the breath io about 30 MziMutes.
............................................
Psychology and The sense of smell is controlledby the olfactory systemand is perhaps the
closest direct link between thebrain and the stimulantthan the othersenses.
the Nose Olfactory stimulation has the capacity to produce an immediate effect on
the nervous system. Any stimulation affects the limbic system, the part of
the brain that controls emotions and personality. This also affects thepitu-
itary and other glandular systems. Essences may also play a role in stimu-
lating the production of neurochemicals such as endorphins and en-
kephalins, thebody’s own pain killers and relaxants.
It’s interesting to note that wehave a n almost immediate reaction to
odors, good and bad. Good odors stay with us throughout our lives. Do
youever remember experiencing a specific fragrance, perhaps your
grandmother’sperfume, and anytime you smell it, even years later, you in-
stinctively think of your grandmother? Bad odors cause immediate revul-
sion. Fragrance is such a strong part of our lives, that our moods can be
altered with fragrance, some calm us and some excite us. Some fragrances
are sensual,and some give us a feeling of relaxation. Thereare manufactur-
ers of unusual items, such as scented stockings for women (Kanebo Cos-
metics, Tokyo), aromadiscs, air fresheners, auto fresheners, and others.
Although we don’t entirely understand how this all works onus, the fact
remains that it does. Essential oils can and do have a profound effect on
our personalities. Research continues to be done throughout the world to
investigate the power of odor on our psyche right alongside research into
the physiological effectsof aromatherapy.From a practical standpoint,there
will be some confusion to the novice on what oils to combine for what
effects and understanding the blends comes only with time and experi-
ence. Keep in mind that you’re dealing with hundreds of oils and, hence,
endless combinations of them. In the next section, we’ll discuss some of
the more common essences and their uses.
............................................
SPA POINT
Tremendous research is being conducted on the psychological effects fragrances
have on us. We know a great perfume on the opposite sex entices us; we use air
fresheners to refresh the room; and scents can remind us of friends, events of the
past. They have the ability to penetrate our memory and evoke feelings.
............................................
SPA POINT
As is obvious by looking at the history and properties of essential oils, they have
survived the test of time, thus having a viable place in the repertoire of the profes-
sional. A lifetime of study can be given to this field alone. The main value of
incorporating aromatherapy into day spa treatments is to tap into the many and
varied effects aromatherapy has on the body, notjust from a skin standpoint but
also from an overall wellness standpoint, both physically and emotionally. The
ambiance that can be created by diffusing the right oils into the air of the treat-
ment room can go far in relaxing and restoring the client, long before the treat-
ment even begins. As such, aromatherapy is a valuable asset in the spa concept.
w i t h research progressing as it is, in the future we may see perfumes thal ease
stress, straw6erry essences in hospital corridors, movies with appropriate fra-
grances. From a purely treatment standpoint, there’s no question that different
essences caM have direct impact on the body, frow chamomile for soothing skin to
rosemary as a stimulant. As with all su6jects,andperhaps more so with
aromatherapy, do not attewpt to play doctor and cure people ofailments. This is
not under the purview of our licensure and could serve to injure the entire indus-
try in the future.
............................................
Some Common The variety and mix of essential oils is probably the most intimidating as-
pect of aromatherapy. Thereare oils with top notes, midnotes, base notes.
Essential Oils and There are oils of yin and yang quality. There are oils that are considered to
Their Purposes be stimulating or sedative sometimes
or both. What oils do is rather subjec-
tive and depends to a great extent on the expertise of the practitioner. As
frustrating as this may be to the beginner, it’salso exciting to know that in
this subject aloneyou can continue to experimentand grow for many years
to come. Just asno two hairdressers cut the same head of hair the same
way, no two aromatherapy experts will necessarily agree oncombinations.
The following oils were chosen for general use purposes and are in no
way the only oils out there for you to use. Next to the name of the oil you
will see any number of purposes listed. Some include medical reference
points, not for you to practice medicine but purely from an informational
point of view.
Basil (herb): Antistress, antiseptic, toning.
Benzoin (gum): Antiseptic, sedative, euphoric.
Bergamot (fruit): Antiacne, good for psoriasis and excema,
antiseptic, healing, deodorizing, helps fight
infection, uplifting. (Caution: use 1 percent or less
due to photosensitivity; do not expose to sun.)
Birch (bark): Astringent, similar to wintergreen, reduces
soreness and stiffness of muscles and joints.
Camphor (wood): Stimulates and soothes, cools then heats,
stimulates heart, analgesic, antiseptic,
rubefacient, stimulates circulation,can be
vasoconstrictor.(Caution:overuse can be toxic.)
Cedarwood (wood): Antiseptic, astringent, sedative, good for skin
eruptions/psoriasis/excema/seborrhea.
Chamomile (flower): Calms nerves, sedative, soothes inflammations,
reduces stress, antidepressant,good for burns,
antiseptic, analgesic, derivative azulene(colorant
and soothing agent),antiallergenic,may reduce
body tempcraturc Known also as the “plant’s
physician” because i t keeps other plants healthy.
Cinnamon (herb): Antiseptic, stimulanl, wat-ming. (Caution:must
dilute.)
Clary sage (herb): Antidepressant, relaxant, antiseptic, calms,
euphoric, warms, seclativc. (Caution: can
intoxicate.)
Clove (flowerbud): Analgesic, antiseptic, stimul;lnt, strengthens
memory, soothes muscles. (Caution:m u s t dilute.)
Cypress (fruit): Vasoconstrictor, anliscptic,astringent, sedative,
good for varicose veins. similar effectas juniper
and pine.
Eucalyptus (leaves): One of the best antiseptics, disinfectant,
analgesic, astringenl, rubefacient, good for
muscle soreness, pronounced cooling effecton
body, excellent on fevcr.decongestant.
Fennel (seeds): Antiseptic, toning, diuretic
Frankincense (gum): Antiseptic, calming.;Mringent, sedative,
warming, toning, slightly ;lnti-inflammatory,
rejuvenating.
Geranium (herb): Anti-inflammatory.enhances relaxation,
analgesic, antiseptic. scdativc. blendswell with
other oils, reduces anxiety, uplifting.
Grapefruit (fruit): Astringent, cleansing.stimulant, toning,
anticellulite/watcr retention.
Jasmine (flower): Soothing, relaxing, antiseptic,antidepressant,
slightly anti-inflammatory, considered“king”of
flowers, very expensive.
Juniper (fruit): Astringent, antiseptic, invigorating, toning,
antitoxic, rubefacient, both stimulatingand
relaxing, stimulates circulation, diuretic.
Lavender (flower): Antiseptic, relaxant, analgesic. antitoxic, diuretic,
sudorific, reduces inllammation,very cleansing/
purifyingJcalming, antistress, soothes burns,
antiacne. Considered the mostuseful and
versatile.
Lemon (fruit): Antiseptic, bactericitfal, detoxifies, purifies
Lemongrass (herb): Antiseptic, purifying, greatfor oily hair and skin,
sedative, stimulating.(Caution:quite strong, use
diluted.)
Melissa (herb): Antiseptic, antidepressant, relaxes, reduces

stress, sedative, antiallergenic.
Myrrh (gum): Antiseptic, astringent, sedative, toning, purifies,
reduces inflammation, cools skin, antiaging.
Neroli (flower): Antidepressant, calming, facial softener,
sedative, nonirritating, greatfor redness and
inflammation, induces calm. (Frombitter orange,
Citrus vulgaris, not to be confused with sweet
orange oil.)
Sweet orange (flower): Calming, soothing, reduces nervousness, revives
complexion.
Oregano (herb): Antiseptic, analgesic, musclerelaxant, stimulant,
energizes.
Patchouli (herb): Antiseptic, antidepressant, sedative, nerve
stimulant, rejuvenating, similar to myrrh, good
for dry skin.
Peppermint (herb): Antiseptic, analgesic, cooling,sedative,
antibacterial, vasoconstrictor, main constituent is
menthol.
Pine (wood): Antiseptic, reduces fatigue, reduces muscle
stiffness, great for bath.
Rose (flower): Antiseptic, astringent, sedative, relieves stress/
tension, purifies and cleanses, rehydrates, cools,
antidepressant, good on dry skin, considered
“queen of flowers,” most expensive, least toxic of
all essences.
Rosemary (herb): Antiseptic, universalaid, toning, helps memory
loss, very stimulating, analgesic, invigorating,
reduces muscle soreness.
Sage (herb): Stimulant, astringent, antiseptic, uplifting,
restores energy of whole system, toning.
Sandalwood (wood): Antiseptic, astringent, sedative, toning,
antidepressant, reduces nervous tension,
soothing, good for acne.
Spearmint (herb): Stimulant, similar to camphor, cooling then
heating, antiseptic, soothes redness,invigorating.
Tea tree (wood): Antibacterial/fungicidal/virucidal,sudorific, great
for acne, powerful immune stimulant, energizes.
Thyme (herb): Antiseptic, reduces fatigue, germicidal,
nonirritating. (Caution: mustbe diluted.)
Wintergreen (leaves): Antiseptic,analgesic,relieves sore muscles and

joints. (Caution: must bediluted.)
Ylangylang (flower):Sedative,calms nerves, antidepressant,
decongestive, relaxing,one of most pleasant to
use, good on oily skin, euphoric.(Caution:must
be diluted.)
...............................................................
Antibacterial Antistress
Calming
Stimulating
Astringent
Moisturizing
Antidepressant
Antiinflammatory
Antiacne Oil Analgesic
Melissa Rosemary Rosemary Orange Chamomile Chamomile Tree Tea Lavender

Rose Camphor Birch Rose Geranlum Lavender Bergamot Chamomile
Geranium Thyme Cedarwood Chamomile Lavender Ceranlum Cedarwood Camphor
Lavender Clove Cypress Neroli Sandalwood jasmine Lemon Clove
Clary Sage Cinnamon Frankincense Patchouli Ylang
Ylang Neroli Lemongrass Eucalyptus
Chamomile Eucalyptus Grapefruit Basil Myrrh Oregano
lasmine Pine juniper Melissa Peppermint Peppermint
Eucalyptus Spearmint Myrrh Neroli Thyme Rosemary
Ylang
Ylang Peppermint Sandalwood Sage Ylang Ylang Wintergreen
Frankincense Oregano Sage Sandalwood
Camphor
*All are antiseptic to some degree
............................................
SPA POINT
Choosing oils is as personal as choosing clothes you like. There are innumera6le
com6inations from which to choose. It is suggested that you either use one essen-
tial oil alone or com6ine with M O more than three to five others.
............................................
ComGinations and The previous list represents only a small group of the most common. You
will see a lot of overlap. Oils may be used singly or in combination with
How to Use Them others. Normally all oils will be diluted into a carrier oil. This carrieroil is
normally a vegetable oil and is generally chosen in consideration of the
skin condition.The essential oils areput into the carrier oil. The typical safe
formula ratio is 2 percent essential oil to the carrier oil. This means about
20-25 drops per 2 ounces of carrier oil.This formula will vary according to
the application.For massage use25 drops per 2 ounces carrier oil;2 ounces
per person is plenty. For a bath use 10-30 drops or IO drops per tablespoon
carrier oil if put in bath as combination. For an infusion use 7- 10 drops per
quart of water. (Room diffusersare sold by various companies specializing
in aroma essences.) For compresses use 2-3 drops per 6 inches on wet
gauze or linen square.
I -..-..-... ...-" ....- _-..-... __.

." . ". __ "" -~ ~ ~~~~~~ ~~- ~ ~
RECIPES AND FORMULAS DUE TO POTENTIAL TOXICITY.
CARRIER OILS
Carrier oils should be vegetable based. Some good oil suggestions
follow:
DRY SKIN COMBINATION OILY

Sweet AlmondOil Corn Oil Grapeseed Oil
Olive Oil JojobaOil Hazelnut Oil
Palm Kernel Oil Sesame Oil Sunflower Oil
SOME SUGGESTED COMBINATIONS

Normally essential oils work well bythemselves orin combinations of three
to five. Toomany added together may dilute the effects.The following com-
binations will contain only three for simplicity. Again, depending on your
goals, consult your supplier for specific recipes.
FACE
Combination skin: Geranium,Neroli, Ylang Ylang
Acne: Bergamot,
Chamomile, TreeTea
Dry skin: Lavender,
Rose,
Chamomile
Oily skin: Clary Sage, Lavender,
Camphor,
Couperose: Cypress,
Patchouli,
Chamomile
Sensitive
skin:
Rose,
Chamomile,
Neroli
Mature
skin:
Frankincense,
Neroli,
Rose
BODY
Overall Well-being: Geranium, Melissa, Lavender
Relaxing: Lavender, Ylang Ylang, Melissa
Stress Reduction: Lavender, Chamomile, Ylang Ylang
Muscle Relief: Pine, Rosemary,Juniper
Invigorating: Lavender, Rosemary, Thyme
Circulation: Grapefruit, Lemon, Geranium
Cellulite: Fennel, Rosemary, Lavender
Men's Bath: Sandalwood, Pine,Lemon
Relaxation Bath: Rose, Lavender, Jasmine
Stimulating Bath: Peppermint, Pine, Lavender
Foot Bath: Tea Tree, Rosemary, Sage
CHAPTER 6 Introduction to Aromatherapy 7I
COMBINATIONS BASED ON FRAGRANCE ONLY

Floral:
Rose, Jasmine
Oriental: Ylang Ylang, Jasmine,Neroli,Camphor
Spicy:
Clove,
Cinnamon
Woodsy: Sandalwood,Pine,Cypress,Camphor
Fruity: Lemon,
Grapefruit,
Orange
The combinations listedmay not suit you orany given client. It’salways
wise at the beginning of the treatment in the spa to ask the client if the fra-
grance is pleasing. If it is irritating, it must be changed. Innumerable combi-
nations will be pleasant to the client and still accomplish yourgoals. As you
have seen, all essential oils are antiseptic to one degree or another so the
versatility is obvious. Thereare many other overlapping oils from which you
may choose. And the abovelist is not extensive. This why is it’sso important
to attendclasses, visit with many manufacturers, and learn more about oils.
............................................
SPA POINT
Combinatio~sshould be selected with the client’s pleasure in mind. If the scent
is unpleasant, a great deal of the value of the treatment is lost. Be sure to ash
the client.
............................................
As has been stated over and over again, aromatherapy is wonderful, but
you must take caution. Some essential oils are highly toxic if used in too
strong a concentration or for too long. Oils can have a pleasing effect or
make the clientnauseous. The following listssome of the contraindications
to treatment.
Pregnancy.
Any systemic disease such as cancer or diabetes. Obtain physician’s
release.
Open wounds, areas of infection or inflammation
Allergic reactions and skin rashes.
Telangiectasia (couperose,varicose veins).
High/lowblood pressure
Whenever in doubt, don’t!
THE TREATMENT AND AFTER

Room diffusers are great to turn on a few minutes before the clientarrives,
but then turn them off. Many therapists become so used to the scent that
they don’t realize how strong it is and the client can become very uncom-
fortable, develop a headache, or become nauseated. Keep the diffusers
under control.
Typically, the aromatherapy treatmentitself is incorporated into the mas-
sage. Therefore, the essential oils arechosen, added to the carrieroil if not
already blended, and then the massage is performed. I f you are unsure of
combining oils,it may be more appropriate for you to use preblendedones.
After the treatment, the client should begiven water and allowed a little
time to rebalanceand normalize before leavingthe room.The client may be
very thirsty, have to urinate often, and may be sleepy.This is normal. Advise
client to stay out of the sun, saunas, baths,or any heating-up situationfor 5
hours. Even after that time, the client should avoid the sun because essen-
tial oils are often photosensitive and can potentially cause splotchiness of
the skin. Due to the natural detoxifying that will normally take place, alco-
hol should not be consumed, and drinking lots of water is recommended
for the next 24 hours.
Aromatherapy is a wonderful and very active science in the professional’s

Synopsis repertoire of treatment capabilities. Aromatherapy is a vital part of all beauty
and well-being concepts now and well into the future.The great part is that
it’s all natural and has already stood the test of time. We are just now un-
locking the treasure chest of treatment modalities that have been around
for four thousand or more years. From frankincense and myrrh in Christ’s
day to rose oil in ours, the joy and satisfaction from nature’s treasure is
yours to explore and expand.
Review 1. Who is considered tohave developed theart of aromatherapy and coined

the word?
2. How long has the use of natural plants been around? Give an example
from the Bible.
3. What are the “king”and “queen”of flowers and why?
4. What combination has been recommended for combination skin?
5 What are two of the contraindications of aromatherapy?
6. Why is aromatherapy important in day spa treatments?
CHAPTER 7
Client Preparation and Room Setup
OVERVIEW
Body work requires greater diligence i n client care than a facial treatment.
For the esthetician expanding into body treatment. it’svital to understand
that you are now treating a much larger area than just the face. Where there
has been significancein charting and knowing contraindications of treatment
for the face,the sameis true in a different arltl larger capacity on the body.In
facial treatments we are primarily concerncd with contraindicationsthat might
cause a reaction to the products and procedures done on the face. When it
comes tobody treatments allergic reactionsmay occur,but we are more con-
cerned with overall healthand circulatory issucst h a t may determine the safety
of a particular body treatment. This is not l o scare the esthetician, but the
technician needs to make certain adjustments i n concepts.
For the massage therapist accustomed only t o performing massage, there
will be an entirely new world of treatment undcrstandingand client relations.
For the progressive massage therapist, this will bc a joy and challenge to
growth. For the massage therapist who doesn’t particularly believe in the value
of products, the learning may come harder. For the cosmetologist or other
beauty professional, this opens up an entirely new scope of growth and learn-
ing. Some thoughtwill have to be given to how to grow into this field,but the
client handling will be a large and critical aspect of success in day spa work.
That is why an entire chapteris bcing devoted to client preparation.
BASIC CLIENT PREPARATION

There are many important basic concepts involved in handling clients for
body work. The technician necds to expand his o r her scope of skin and
wellness consciousness. While some csthcticims are still just trying to get
clients to purchase a cleanser, freshener,ant! moisturizer the ideaof trying to
get the client tothink of body treatments a n d products is like telling the aver-
age person that he will take a trip to the moon The client must be educated
into day spa bodytreatments. A small minority of clients travel todestination
spas and like body treatments so much thal they will ask for them on their
own, but the vast majority must be cducatcd and encouraged to take treat-
ments. How this takes placewill be covered m o w fully i n Day Spa Operatims.
Another aspect of body treatmenl that will ncccl to be worked through
with the client is the idea of taking clothes o f f a n d being worked on “in the
buff” by a technician. Most people feel t h a t thcir body is not good enough
to be seen by anyone. First of all, with the possible exception of a Scotch
hose or other similar treatment, the only p a r t of the body seenby the tech-
73
nician at any one time is the part being worked on. This seems obvious to
the technician but the client must be educated to understand this so that
taking clothes off isn’t a hindrance to growth into the wonderful world of
body care. Caution and attention to proper draping will resolve the issue
once the client has been in for a treatment, but initially shyness is an ob-
stacle that must be handled.
Both of these major obstacles are not difficult and most often can be
handled well from the outset by having a good quality consultation chart.
The Consultation If your consultation chart is extensive enough to handle all areas of your
Chart day spa, it can be filled out the first time a client comes in for any service.
The client should be askedto arrive 10- 15 minutes early on the first visit to
allow time for filling out the chart. This is the same procedure physicians
use so it shouldn’t receive much, if any, resistance from the client. The in-
formation contained in the chart will allow the technician to grow the cli-
ent-even if a client came in for nail care, the information should be helpful
to graduate that client into spa manicures and pedicures as well as into
other full-body treatments. One of the best types of consultation charts
available is the kind printed on manilla folders, the outside having informa-
tion for the client to fill out and the inside set aside for the technicians.
BASIC QUESTIONS ON CHART FROM

A CLIENT STANDPOINT
You must have an area for the client to fill out name; address; phone num-
ber; occupation; date of birth (hopefully the client will answer this one as
it’s helpful for promotions, etc.);and physicians’ names, addresses, and
phone numbers (family physicianand dermatologist).
There needs to be an area listing as many common diseases and disor-
ders as possible for the clientto check off.Important issues for body treat-
ment are allergies, birth control pills, blood disorders (high and low blood
pressure, phlebitis, varicose veins,diabetes, etc.),cancer, any systemic dis-
ease, hypo- or hyperthyroid, inflammation, infection, medications (internal
as well as topical),pacemaker, pregnancy,rashes (local orsystemic),recent
surgeries, and any other questionable condition. Having this information
will eliminate the possibility of treatment without first receiving
a physician’s
release. This is for your safety as well as the client’s safety.
You should know basically whatproducts the client uses on the faceas
well as the body. Thesemay be listedso that the client checksa box or you
may prefer to write them down as you discuss skin care with the client.
When beginning to do body treatments, it’s important to know what kinds
of products the client uses at home as well as products the client may be
interested in. (Figure 7-1)
There should also be an area to discern lifestyle habits. Does this per-
son exercise regularly? Is the person active and health oriented or seden-
tary and generally not concerned? It’s goodto inquire about areas of interest
in body treatments, past experiences, and so forth. A favorite question to
CHAPTER 7 ClientPreparationand Room Setup 75
CLIENT CONSULTATION FORM 1

Name ~ .. . . . . . .
Address "" "
Home # - __ Business#
Fax # Car # -
Dateof Birth . . _- .
.~ ". .. - .."
Family
Physician ~ . . __ Phone #
Dermatologist __ Phone #
Last S e e n : 0 Physician 0 Dermatologist 0 Other
Visit: Doctor's Last for Reason ____ Date
MEDICAL HISTORY
Check Box where Applicable / Fill In With Details:
0 Accutane 0 A m
0 Allergic5 0 Arttuitis
0 Artificial Implants 0 Asthma
0 Birth Control 0 Blood Disorder
0 Blood ?hinner 0 Cancer" ~-
0 Claustrophobia 0 Contact Lens
0 Depression 0 DiabetiC
Capillaries 0 Distended 0 hema
0 Epilepsy 0 Fever Blisters
Condition 0 Heart 0 Hepatitis
0 High Blood Pmsure 0 HN
0 Hyper/Hypa
Pigmentation 0 Hyper/Hypo Thyroid
0 Lnsornnla 0 Lupus
0 Medication 0 Metal Plates or Pins
0 Nail Disorders 0 Pacemaker
0 Phlebitis 0 Plastic Surgery
0 PWFnt 0 PSoriasi.5
0 Ketin-A* 0 Scleroderma
0 seborrhea 0 Sensitivites
0 Skin C a n e r 0 SurgerieS
0 Underweight/Overweight 0 Vitamins
0 other:
"" . -- .
I-PERSONAL SKIN CARE HISrORY

Please CheckCurrent Products You Use:
I
0 Eye Make-upRemover 0 Cleansing Cream/Lotion 0 FacialSoap
0 Sliin Frpjhenerfloner.
Ashingent) 0 Day Cream 0 Nightcream
0 Mask
0 EyeCream
0 FaclalScrub
0
0
Neckcream
Exfoliants 0 BodY*P
I
0 Body Iation/Cream 0 Body Scrub 0 Handcream
0 Sunscreen# - 0 Other:
..- - - -.- .~ - "
I Copynsht1994 Comlmbnr. Iru. lhiimhmlm y wt be m p doc duplicatedin any n m w e r without t h c pip- wriltm pmuann of Com!ahm,lnc
I
FIGURE 7-1 The client consultation form should ask a6out the client's medical and personal skin
care history. as well as record the client's address artd phone numbers.
ask is howthe client thinksof his or her own body condition

and what areas
he/she would like to improve. (Figure7-2)
BASIC ANALYSIS AND CONCERNS ON CHART FROM

TECHNICIAN STANDPOINT
If a client has showninterest in body treatments, don'tbe surprised if that
person isn't quite honest with the health history.When doing certaintreat-
ments, such as a 30-minute hydrotherapy tub treatment, you should ask
about contraindications again. You may also want to include a disclaimer
PERSONAL EVALUATION QUESTIONNAIRE

PLEASE REPLY IN DETAIL Tu THE FOLLOWING QUESTlONS
hear
I. youdid
I low about our salon? . " ..~. . .
.-.. --
"" - ._- .~
2. What is your malor reawn for bemg here today? _ _ ~~ . .. ~ .- ...____
." ~ ~ . ".
3. What skin +and/or problem do you f e e l you have? ~- ".
.. ." . .__ ""
4. Have you ever hada facial treatment before?If yes, where and when? Was it a tcncficial experience?
~~ ..... -.
5. liave you ever had a reaction to a wmehc or skin care pndud? Please d d b e .
. ~~ ..
6. Have you ever had a body/bust treatment? ""
~~ _.
7. Where do you purchase mmt o f your fan. and b o d y cary produds? ___
" ."
8 How
much time doyour
dully
spend
you
on hkin carc/makeup routine? .. __ " "_
" . - ..
" - _ _ ~
9. How do you feel about your body and s k m conditions? W h a t would you like In impmve?
I " . . ."
IO. Do you knd to tan or bum? ._.~~ ~~ ~_____-
11. Em you smoke? ~ ~ _- -
12. Do you rxerclse? How much?___ -
13. How much sleep do you gel p e r Nght? .~
14. I lowmuch do youdrink of thefollowing Heavy
little Moderate
Water 0 0 0
coffee 0 0 0
Tea 0 0 0
Almhol 0 0 0
I
s n f t DMk 0 0 0
15. Would you like to be on our m a I b t for pmmotions and claascs? - .
16 Are you inkrested in long or short term s a l o n treatment?
17. Are you pleased with your c u n m t products?
18. Have you everdepilatory
wax
beenwith
waxed before? -
... "
II SALON POLICIES
l U nderstand fully andagrce to comply withall the salon policieslisted below:
1. We do no1 wax anyone on Accutane. Retin-A@,o r other medicatiom/pmdu& that exfoliate or Lhin the skin.
We do not wax anyone undeqolng chemotherapy or radiation treatments.
2. We will not treat clients with quntionable medical wnditiom such as herpes simplex (coldBO^, fever blisters),
open wounds or sores, healing incbtons. infectiousdieam, etc. We do not maspage clients undergotngc m .
diabehc, or systemic matments or M Yother specific contra-indications to body treatments.
3. We q u i r e a minimum of 24 hours advan- cancellation notire. Any client giving leu, will be charged lhat hdl
fee of service m e r v r d .
4. I understand that the s e r v i c e s w i v e d here are not a substitute for medical care andm y information provtded by
the estheticinn IS for educational purposes only.
5. All information received by the client on this chart is completely private and confidmtiul.
6. We do not glve cashrefunds
7. bc.
Defective produds must r e t u r n e d within IO days of purchase to recieve credit.
FIGURE 7-2 Use the client consultation fortn as a way to familiarize yourself with your client. Ash
questions that will help you assess the 6est kind of treatment for the client.
on the chartlisting some conditions that won't be treated without arelease

from the client's doctor. Somepeople just don't tell the truth, particularly
about medications.
As stated before, the technician must discuss treatments in terms of
removing clothes and being nude. The clients must feel confident about
their modesty being protected, particularly at first. Confidence and less
modesty will naturally result with experience, but initially it can be a large
obstacle to obtaining treatments.
CHAPTER 7 ClientPreparationand Room Setup 77
TECHNICAL ANALYSIS
PLEASE REPLY IN DETAIL TO THE FOLLOWING QuESnONS
SKINTYPE: 1
0 Acne
0 combination
0 N d
SKIN CONDITIONS:
0
0
0
Alipidic
&hydrated
oily
1 MASSAGE
h t M Of
0
0
0
shrss
Back
Hips
Lumbar
0
:
Feel (Right/Left)
2 k
0 Aged 0 Birthmarks 0 Shoulders 0 Thoracic
0 Brulsing 0 Cellulite
0 Comedones
0 DistmdedCapillaries
0
0
DarkCirdes
ExcessiveHair
To'=
Rault
0 Swedish
0 FineLmes 0 Flaccid,Saggmg 0 Headaches 0 InwerE+xkPam
0 Hyper
Pigmentation 0 Hypo Pigmentation 0 htic 0 other.
0 Milia 0 Moles
0 Papules 0 Pustules
0 Sagging Bust Line 0 Scam SKIN TEXlWREJCOLOR:
0 StrrtchMarks 0 Alblno 0 Black
0 wrinkles 0 Orher 0 FnlargedPorps 0 Ethnic
0 Graved 0 Olive
o Pal; o m
NNIS: I 0 Pitting 0 Rough
Typ 0 Ruddy 0 Shallow
0 Brittle 0 -
ged 0 Smooth 0 Sunburned
ODrV 0 Normal 0 Tanned 0 Tluck
0 "tin 0 other
-. .." .
UPDATE ANALYSIS
Comments
FIGURE 7-3 Record your analysis of the client on the form
The technician should always analyze the skin as the treatments are
being performed. This will be particularly helpful in areas the client can't
see, such as the back. Any potential skin lesion/cancer should be pointed
out and charted (Figure7-3).The client should beencouraged to see a phy-
sician about any questionable lesions or growths. Any open wounds or
areas of inflammation should be avoided entirely and charted. Skin and
muscle tone should also be considered.Areas of stress or discomfort should
be charted along with areas to be avoided. Skin color, texture, and degree
of dehydration/scaliness should be a major area of treatment concentra-
tion and thus charted.
FIGURE 7-4 Keep track of the equipment used, products sold, urld procedures completed OH
each visit.
The technician must remember the health issues and contraindications

and must consider each one in viewof the treatment planned each time.
Certain treatments can be performed and others might not be able to be
done. Good consciousness of the client will help determine safety here.
The technician must keep great records of treatments given (Figure7-41,
goals to achieve, reasons for series and effects, along with anything un-
usual on the body that might be cause for concern. And even if the client
visits regularly,the technician should remember t o ask updated health ques-
tions, At a very minimum, the technician shoultl ;]SI< if there have been any
changes in the health or condition of the client since last seen.
It's importantto keep records in the chart of products sold as well as
those recommended. Samples given should bc recorded for follow-up in
a few days.
............................................
............................................
WET ROOM VERSUS DRY ROOM

Wet Room As stated previously, a wet
room
is a room that has been constructed in
such a way that it can get wet without damaging the room.Most wet rooms
are completely tiledup to the ceilingsand have floor drains.The room must
be constructed in such a way t h a t the floor is sloped for quick drainage. The
ceiling must be made of waterproof materials. I f tiles are usedfor the floor
and walls, which is recommended, the grouting must be mold and mildew
resistant. In other words, the room must bcconstructed to be conducive to
being wet all day long. Depending o n w h a t is txing done, the wetroom
should be about 9 feet by 12 feet in sizc. I f you p l a n to include a Scotch hose
in the wet room with a tub, you might consider going IO feet by 14 feet for
sufficient room to do both. In addition t o room sizc. a l l wet rooms should
have a shower and hand-held hose t o allow tor the client to showeras well
as for ease of cleanup and to wash down the walls and drain the floorquickly.
It's a good idea to have indirect lighting t h a t is watcrproof and controlled
by a dimmer switch to add to the room ambiance.
TREATMENTS IDEALLY SUITED TO A WET ROOM

Hydrotherapy tub treatment.
Vichy shower treatment along with a 1 1 showering devices
Scotchhose treatment.
Body treatments such as salt glows, nlrrd masks, and seaweed wraps
work well in the wet room. Mud is easier t o remove in a wet room than
in a d r y treatment room. This m a y v a r y somcwhat according to the
product.
Overall, any and all body treatments can easily a n t i comfortably be done in
the wet room. Conversely, some body treatments may be done in a d r y
room but are better suited to the wet areas.
RULES OF THE WET ROOM

The room must be cleaned, sanitized, and dried between each client.
The client mustenter a wet area feelingthat he or she is the first client
to ever touch that room.
Some seaweeds and mud can stain certain types of tiles so be sure to
clean the tiles immediately after use to avoid staining. When purchas-
ing tiles, be sure they are water and stain resistant or stain proof.
The floor must be sloped and fitted with drainage systems that drain a
floor quickly.
Glass objects including drinkingglasses and bowls should never be used
in a wet room.
Dry Room This is a massage or

treatmentroom,
normallynot
tiled
or
drained for water.
Adry room is often morerelaxing and conduciveto massage andsome types
of treatments. It’s valuableto have a shower attached or nearby to facilitate
product removal.But the room itself will be much quieter without the tile and
it gives a more soothing ambianceto the client. The typical dry room sizeis
about 8 feet by 10 feet. It can actually bea little smaller, but smallerthan this
will often give a closed in, claustrophobic sensationto the client.It‘sgood to
have a sink in the room for preparing andwashing out treatment bowls and
the like. I f a sink is not possible, the technicianneeds to have a water source
nearby. Most facilities considering bodytreatments tend to ignore the value
of plumbing fora sink in the treatment roomsbecause they think of the room
strictly for massage. Although it is not absolutely necessary,it is still a good
idea to have a sink if for no other reason than to be able to wash hands in
front of the client orto warm the massage oil.Again, the sink must be kept
clean, sanitized, and dried between clients. The floor covering should be easy
to keep up. Some states prohibit carpet and in some senses tile is better.
However, tileis hard on the technician’s feet. If using a floor covering suchas
carpet, be sureit’svacuumed aftertreatments.
TREATMENTS IDEALLY SUITEDTO A DRY ROOM

Massage.
Salt or body polishes if a shower is nearby.
Seaweed wraps.
All spot treatments.
Remember, it isn’tthat all treatments, including mud,can’t be done in a dry
room, but it’s easier and more efficient to do certain messy or difficultto
remove treatments in a wet area as opposed to a dry area.
RULES OF THE DRY ROOM

The floor covering should be something easy to clean up, sweep, dust,
or vacuum after removal of treatments such as exfoliantsand salts.
CHAPTER 7 ClientPreparationarld Room Setup 8 I
Do not use any glass objects that can fall and break. it's difficult to be
sure all pieces of glass are completely picked up.
Indirectlighting on dimmerswitches is important. The roomshould
also be wired for music.
A clean, crisp bed setup should be done after each client, even if an-
other client isn't due soon.The look of a room alreadyset up makes the
day spa look professional and becomes inviting to a clienton tour.
............................................
SPA POINT
Wet rooms with tiling all around and good floor druinage are more conducive to
the difficult, messy, or hard to remove treatments such us mud. Cleaning, sani-
tizing, and drying the wet room betweeM clients is imperutive!
............................................
ROOM AMBIANCE
The ambianceor mood of the rooms is important. Remember, you're deal-
ing with Americans who still tendto be a littles h y about body treatments.
I f the rooms are pristine, clean, and welcoming, the client's reluctance is
reduced and y o u r ability to make progress in body treatment services is
greatly heightened.
The room must be pristine and immaculately clean, sanitized, dry. Sheets
and towels must beclean, fresh, andwithout oil stains or odors. There are
a number of products on the market available to remove the rancid smell
and stain from oils. The bed must be made up between clients and look
fresh,as if nobody had ever been on those sheets before. Replace oldsheets
and towels when necessaryto preserve this image.All implements and sur-
faces must be cleaned and disinfected between clients.
Oil and other product containers must also be clean and pleasant look-
ing. Do not allow massage oil bottles to look old, dirty, or rancid. Purchase
new bottles when necessary to maintain a very clean, fresh look. All prod-
ucts should be displayed well. This is a form of indirect sellingand a good
display will help market both your retail products andservices.
The room colors, lighting, and mood should be very inviting and re-
laxing, ideallyto both men and women if you have a mixed clientele. Pink
walls might be fine for a woman and brown great for a man, but either
would be disaster for a mixed clientele. Subtle taupes, beiges, or greys
are more conducive to men and women alike. Keep both sexes in mind
when choosing lighting. The lighting should be subdued and controlled by
a dimmer switch so that it can be raised or lowered during consultation
and treatment times.
Professional attire for the technician is a must. The clothingor uniform
should be fresh, clean,and dry. Sometimesit is necessary to change clothes
several times a day due to water splashing from hydrotherapy equipment.
CHAPTER 7 Client Preparation and Room Setup 83
PLASTIC
This also isn’t kitchen-versionwrap. The texture should be the thicknessof
tall kitchen garbage bags. Plastic normally comes in a roll and can be cut to
size. Sizesfor plastic will be the same as foil. Onceagain, some technicians
like to use shower curtain liners and wash after use. If this is your choice,
be aware that disinfection is again difficult. Also if you do use shower cur-
tain liners, be sure cut
to off the area where the holes are. It is recommended
to use disposable plastic sheets.
Wet Room Bed Setup Thebeditselfshouldbewaterprooforwater resistant. This means pur-

chasing a special wet room table or usinga metal or plastic table with some
kind of waterproof covering. Many beginning spas use plastic tables with
foam mattresses used in the pool or at the ocean. Some wet rooms use tile
tables. Whatever is used, be sure it is covered with something comfortable
for the client to lay on. Then this is covered with foil or plastic, depending
on the treatment being done. I f only a massage is being done without any
water, the bed can be set up as in a dry room.
A towel should cover theheadrest part of the foam mattress or be rolled
up comfortably under the client’s head to elevate it slightly. Other towelsmay
be needed under the small of the back or under the knees for added com-
fort. These towelswill get wet and should be removed after the wet portion of
treatment. I f a massage is to follow a wet treatment in the same room, the
client should be askedto get up and wait in a chair while the bed is prepared
again. This time the bed should be dry, with new sheets and towels. Again a
bolster or towels may be placed under the head, back, and knees.
Dry towels should always be put on the flooras a bath mat for the client
to step on.
Dry Room Bed Setup The setup may depend on the treatment or treatments being performed.
But as a rule, the bedwill first be coveredwith an electric bed warmer (not
electric blanket for you should not lie on an electric blanket, whereas bed
warmers are designed for people tolie on),then a light blanket, sheet, then
bath towel. At this point the choice offoil or plastic will depend on the
treatment. Sometimes both will be put down if the treatment is being lay-
ered. For example, when doing a salt glow and a seaweed body wrap, the
foil will be put over the towel and then the plastic will be put over the foil,
After the salt glow is completed, the plastic will be rolled out from under
the client, leaving the client lying on the foil.
After the client has been wrapped in foil or plastic, the bed warmer is
turned off, the client is further wrapped in the sheet and blanket. A bol-
ster or towels may then be placed under the head, back, and knees for
added comfort.
After the treatment wrap has been completed, normally after about 15-
30 minutes, the blanketand sheet are opened. The client’sfoil or plastic is
loosened and then the client is helped to a standing position and allowed
to enter the shower with the foil or plastic still wrapped around. The client
is instructed to removeand just drop the foil/plastic,to shower off the mud
or seaweed or whatever product is on the skin. While the client is showering
the bed is freshened and a new cover bath towel or preferablybath sheet is
readied for covering the client. The client is given a fresh d r y towel with
which to dry off, then is robed and escorted back to the bed to complete
the treatment. The bed warmer should have been turned on again to help
ensure that the clientdoesn’t get chilled.
............................................
SPA POINT
Whether workiMg iM a wet or dry room, proper draping aMd careful coverirq of
the clieMt is imperative. Fresh Clem towels should be used after every exposure to
water. Do Mot make the clieMt use the same towel to dry off after a shower, tub, etc.
ClieMts feel more luxurious if bath sheets are used to cover them t h a just
~ bath
towels. Bath sheets give a rich aura aMd cover the clieMt better than bath towels.
............................................
Work Area Setup Tools and suppliesmustbekeptimmaculatelyclean and sanitized.Thework
area should be neat and inviting to the client, never crowded or messy
Bottles must be clean and pleasant looking. Be sure the products to be
used on the client are lined up on a towel on the counter tomake a welcom-
ing effect. Clutter is an absolute no-no!
SUPPLIES NEEDED
Plastic mixing bowls and metal mixing bowls. It is preferable not to mix
or dispense muds in metal containers. On the other hand, white plastic
sometimes stains with seaweed so metal is sometimes better for
seaweeds. Otherwise, wash and disinfect immediately to avoid staining
as much as possible. Some of the blue plastic containers a t the grocery
store will work well and stain little. Never use glasscontainers or imple-
ments, particularly in a wet area. The only glass allowed would be the
essential oil bottles that must be packaged in glass. But be cautious
and never have them nearthe tub or tables where theymight slip, break,
and splinter.
Metal and wooden whisks and large plasticspoons for mixing seaweed
powders and other products.
Measuring cups for additives.
Disinfectant for spraying surfaces and hands, wet sanitizer containing
disinfectant for implements, and dry storage container for implements
and sponges after disinfection. Check into your state and federal re-
quirements for disinfectants.
Sponges, shammies, brushes, loofah mitts, etc. All supplies that are
needed to perform various exfoliation, rinsing, and washing capabili-
ties. Be sure these are all implements that can be disinfected.
CHAPTER 7 Client Preparatiorl and Room Setup 85
Towels
You will use many towels per treatment. For every trip to the showeror
water source, you will need a bath towel or bath sheet. You will need two
bath towels for bath matsat the work table as well as for the tubor shower.
Then you will need two to three bath sheets for covering the client during
treatment dependingon the numberof treatments combined.You may need
extra towels for bolsters under the head, back, knees. You will use a mini-
mum of five towels per water treatment. Remember, after any water treat-
ment the clientwill return to the bed for lotion application. This will require
a fresh towel on the bed and to cover the client.
Sheets
Normally only one or two sheets are used per treatment. I f the first
sheet is well covered with toweling, it may not be necessary to use a sec-
ond sheet. But if the sheet is the primary coveringtool, then two to three
sheets will be needed. When using the wet room for a wet treatment such
as the Vichy shower and then for massage, two to three sheets will be
necessary.
A final note on sheets, towels, and supplies-be sure they are in good
shape. When they get old and thin, it is advisable to replace them. Since
the day spa is a spin-off from the destination spa, luxurious sheets and
towels are more success oriented.Purchasing high-qualitysheets and tow-
els may cost more, but they will certainly last longer and give a much
better impression.
............................................
SPA POINT
The image a client of day spas requires is that of high quality aHd luxury. The
cleadiness and presentation of towels, sheets, bed setup, and rooms are a critical
part of the success of the operation. The operative words are quality aud pro-
fessionalism.
............................................
Synopsis This chapter is entirely concerned with issues that may seem unimportant
but that can make or breakthe business. Americans are still shy about tak-
ing their clothes off. I f the client is assured by the appearance and profes-
sionalism that their modesty will be protected and that the treatment is
hygienically safe, then the business will prosper. I f the client feels that the
work rooms and areas are unsanitary, the business will die without you
even knowing what happened. Disinfection and sanitation are critical. Em-
ployees must also understand that wet areas must be cleaned, sanitized,
and dried after each client and that if there isn’t an assistant for that job,
then the cleanupis a natural part of the clienttreatment. Sheets and towels
must also be fresh, clean, andinviting looking; old, stained, thin towels are
not appropriate for a successful day spa operation.
Review 1. Is shyness a consideration when introducing clients to body

treatments?
2. What concerns make body work different from facial work?
3. How should the issue of removing clothes and being “in the buff” be
handled?
4. What is the difference betweena wet and dry room?
5. Should anything made of glass be allowedin a treatment area? Why?
6. What is the difference between an electric blanket and bed warmer in
treatments?
7. Why are bath sheets preferable to bath towels in some cases?
CHAPTER 8
Body Treatments and Treatment Development
OVERVIEW
This is an exciting chapter because we will begin to develop the day spa
treatment program.In subsequent chapters we'll highlight some of the criti-
cal treatment topics such as exfoliants, mud, and seaweed. In order to bet-
ter understand the ingredients, it's useful to understand the development
of treatments first. As with anything, there area myriad of treatment capa-
bilities for the day spa and variations may occur within one product line
that don't in another. In keeping with a simple dayspa concept,we will not
dwell on specific product line applications. Marketing and menu develop-
ment will be covered in detail in Day Spa Operatiom.
In this chapter we will look at overall goals and treatmentsto suit those
goals, general contraindications,and scheduling treatments with and with-
out hydrotherapy. It can be a little difficult to develop a full program with-
out knowing the specifics of an individual day spa. However, general
principles will normally work for all sizes and market strata.
BODY TREATMENT CONCEPTS

Why are body treatments important? Why is a day spa based on body
treatment? Why should we bother selling combinations of treatments?
These are only a few of the questionsyou need to ask yourself when go-
ing into the day spa business.You must have a clear-cuttarget in order to
make it work.
As has been discussed in previous chapters, the American consumer
is still learning howto take careof the face, much less consider the body.
Estheticians and massage therapistshave little experience themselves in
body workwith products and treatments, which can make passing the
idea on to theclient more difficult. Even with the advent of all the destina-
tion spas, spa books, and spa travel agencies there is still a feeling of
luxury and vacation about body care. The ultimate concept you must ad-
dress with your client is:
BODYCARE IS A NECESSITY FOR HEALTH, WELL-BEING, A N D

YOUTHFUL APPEARANCE. IT IS NOT JUSTA LUXURY TO BE
ENIOYED FROM TIME TO TIME. YOUR BODY IS THE ONLY ONE
YOU'LL EVER GET SO IT'S IMPORTANT TOMAKE THE MOST OF
ITNOW!
87
To achieve this, the technician must believe the following:

I . Body care really is important and valuable.
2. Body treatments really do work.
3. Hydrotherapy really is therapy for well-being all by itself.
4. Hydrotherapy in conjunction with other product-based treatment will
further enhance the benefits of either alone.
5. There isa difference in professional products and treatments from over-
the-counter body products.
6. With consistent treatment, the person can feel and look better.
7. Although there is no cure for cellulite, a proper all-around program
really can help reduce and control cellulite buildup.
8. Body care treatments are worth the investment in time, money, and
energy.
9. There is more than just money to be made in body care. There is great
personal satisfactionin helping a client be thebest that he/she can be.
10. Body care is the wave of the future for the complete skin care profes-
sional.
If you are going into this just to make moneyand you're hassledby the
learning curve or the investment, then body care is not for you. For the
massage therapist who tends to think of massage only, the learning curve
to product and treatment is sometimes difficult, but it is absolutely neces-
sary if you want to succeed.
On the other hand, if body care is a n exciting new field of study and
you're ready to go,then your day spa has a great chance of success. B u t
remember, it won't take off overnight. Now let's move into the treat-
ment goals.
............................................
SPA POINT
The most important factor for success in the day spa business is to really believe
in the valueof body treatments. In most cases this will necessitate the technician's
personal experience in giviog and receiving treatments. You can't sell what you
don't know You must know firsthand what it's all about!
............................................
OVERALL TREATMENT GOALS

Body care involves so many things, from hydrotherapy to mud, to seaweed,
milk baths, bath salts, lotions and potions, creams and things. What is it all
about and how does it work?
CHAPTER 8 Body Treatments and Treatrnent Development 89
TREATMENT GOALS FOR THE CLIENT

Relaxation
Skin texture and condition improvement
General wellness enhancement, body invigoration
Relief for stressed, sore, achy muscles
Target and improve specific areas like cellulite, back, or
bust
To accomplish these goals,the following three major categories should fit

most treatment concepts.
Exfoliatiou Exfoliation is the processwhereby the skin is rubbed, polished, or scrubbed

or enzymes are used on it to remove dead skin cells, rancid oils, dirt, and
debris. There is no question about the effect of life, pollution, and environ-
ment on the skin.The life cycle of skin naturally causes dead cells, and with
oils and environmentalbuildup the skin can lose some of its vivacity, tone,
and polish. The exfoliation process removes dead cells to bring a more
vibrant skin to the surface. The exfoliation also allows the skin to more
readily accept moisturizers, nutrients, and treatments designed to improve
skin texture or inner skin function. The greatest product in the world is in-
hibited by an overaccumulation of dead skin. So all the exfoliation goalsare
designed toimprove surface skin textureand prepare theskin for nutrients.
Full-Body Care Full-body care means exactly that, treatments and products designed to
help the entire body. This normally doesn’t include the facebecause of the
vast field of technology developedfor the face alone. However, they should
go hand in hand and preferably be treated together on a n ongoing basis.
The body is mirrored in the face so both are important. Full-body care in
the sense we deal with is not meant to cure disease or disorder but to
improve on a basically healthy person. Full-body care is wellness oriented.
In other words, it is preventative ratherthan curative. The work done in day
spa treatments may actually relieve a health condition, but that must be an
indirect result of the beauty and wellness treatments and never the verbal
or actual goal of the technician.No beauty professional or massage thera-
pist is licensed to cureanything. It is very easy to fall into the trap of trying
to cure because many of the treatments and products used are, in fact,
natural, homeopathic cures, and that’s fine but not from a direct healing
approach. As a result, the full-body care we are concerned with may be
divided into two thoughts.
S K I N CONDITIONING
Theskinof the body has texture just as the face does. Body care treat-
ments may be targeted to improve skin texture, color, tone, suppleness,
softness, and elasticity.
DETOXIFICATION
A difficult word to express the goal of helping the body to function on its
own better. When the circulationand metabolism arestimulated,the body’s
own processing improves. This in turn improves the elimination process,
helping the bodyto rid itself of wastes and toxins. In other words, this helps
the body to detoxify itself. This improved metabolism will help not onlythe
nutritional side of metabolism but also the elimination side. The end result
is normally a more energetic, vivacious, active individual who feels more
well. We often use the words detox or detoxification to explain products and
treatments that facilitate the body’sown natural elimination process.
Spot Treatment Spot treatment means to workon a portion of the body. Common spot
treatments include back, cellulite, bust, hands and arms, feet and calves, or
specific stressed areas. The goal in spot treatment normally includes both
conditioning of the skin and improvement in metabolism, thusdetoxifying
and providing nutrition. Spot treatments concentrate on a specific part of
the body and may or may not be included in a full-body program.Day spas
will offer spot treatments alonevery effectivelyand in conjunction with other
full-body concepts very profitably.
Does spot treatment indicate lesser effectivenessthan a full-body treat-
ment? No, absolutely not. There will be situations in which one can be quite
aggressive on a small area where the full body would be too much. Spot
treatment can also provide activity in a more concentrated fashion on that
part alone. Combining spot treatments with full-body treatments can be
complicated but also exciting. Marketingand combining treatments will be
dealt with in more detail in Day Spa Operations.
............................................
SPA POINT
The overall goals are really quite simple when Groken down. Body treatments are
a process of exfoliation, then treatment for shin conditioning or deloxification on
the full body or in spot treatments. Treatments, product ingredients, concepts,
and home care all fit into this simply defined treatment goal system.
............................................
C0ntraindicati0ns This is a very difficult area for the novice because the contraindicationsfor
this treatment and that treatment and then another treatment can be so
pervasive that the technician is liable to feel that nobody can be treated.
This is not true, Although the conservative answer to contraindications is
quite extensive, the bottom line is to consultin detail with the client, obtain
a physician’sconsent and guidance whereneeded, and proceed very slowly
and conservatively in any case where there may be health risks or ques-
tions. When we say that high and low blood pressure are contraindications
for body treatment, that could potentially eliminate a large part of your
client base. Yes, it can be a serious contraindication, but it may also be just
a guideline to watch the client carefully.
CHAPTER 8 Body TreatmentsandTreatmentDevelopment 91
From a textbook standpoint, you must understand that in body work

there are more contraindications to treatment than in facials just by the
nature of the size of the area beingtreated. With extensive experienceyou’ll
learn to adjust your treatments, water temperatures, and goals according
to the contraindications without necessarily turningaway a client. But the
beginner is much wiserto adhere strictlyto contraindications until the knowl-
edge, experience, and confidence level reach the point where you know
exactly what, where, how, and when. And even so, there may be times when
the unexpected happens. This is not to scare you but to make you cogni-
zant of the importance of care and proper consultation andcharting.Major
contraindications are also more important when combining treatment with
hydrotherapy or when combining a couple of spot treatments with full-body
treatment and then adding hydrotherapy.When in doubt, lesser is better.
WHEN IN DOUBT ABOUT WHETHER IT’S OKAY TO TREAT A

CLIENT, REDUCE THE TREATMENT TIME, LOWER THE HOT
WATER LEVELS, USE LESS OF THEESSENTIAL OILS AND
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS, AND COMBINE FEWER
TREATMENTS AND MODALITIES. START SLOWLY AND
SIMPLY AND GRADUALLY ADD AND INCREASE. BE
CONSTANTLY AWAREOF THE CLIENT’S CONDITION AS
THE TREATMENT PROGRESSES. WHENEVER THE CLIENT
FEELS LIGHT-HEADED OR DIZZY OR HAS A HEADACHE,
IT’S TIME TO STOP.
OVERALL CONTRAINDICATIONS:
Heartdisease
Extreme high or low blood pressure
Any systemic disease, including immune disorders,
cancer, diabetes, epilepsy, hemophilia
Pregnancy (particularly hydrotherapyand full body)
Areas of open wounds, lesions, infection, inflammation,
edema (swelling), varicose veins, phlebitis,and other
vascular problems
............................................
SPA POINT
In general, when in doubt don’t do it. Whenever there is a systemic disease or
chronic problem obtain a physician’s consent.Avoid doing too much of anything
OM a questionably healthy individual. The conservative approach is [lie safest
and a good base from which to grow.
............................................
TREATMENTS FOR THE DAY SPA

The true day spa may include every kindof beauty-related service, from hair
services to facial esthetics, nail care, andbody care. The scope of this book
will not include treatments for the face, hair, and nails except as they are
related to specifically targeted spa-liketreatments such as a seaweed scalp
treatment, a special mud mask for the face, ora spa manicure or pedicure.
Treatments will be described loosely. Each product linemay have aninterest-
ing twist to a basic concept ora specialized treatment that may not be in-
cluded here. Also, part of the fun of offering spa treatments is the abilityto
mix and match andcome up with your owndistinct combinations. Packages
and combiningwill be discussed morefully in Day Spa Operations.
Remember that the threemain concepts we’ll be dealingwith are exfolia-
tion, full-body,and spot treatments. Rough times will be listed fortreatments.
These times will vary according to the goal of the treatment, combinations
thereof, andthe manner in which sales are being done. The most important
thing to remember is to always allow time for sellingproducts. It must be said
again and again that the money in this business is in the retail. If you don’t
have enough time to allow for a retail presentation, you will not only lose
money in retail sales, but also do your client a disservice. The home care
follow-up is vital to spa success. See also chapter 13 and Day Spa Operations.
............................................
SPA POINT
Exfoliation, body wraps, mud, seaweed, and essential oils are typical compo-
nents of spa treatments. These may bemixed for the optimum treatments to
make your spa unique. Manufacturers have their own game plan, treatment
concepts, and ingredient innovations. It‘s imperative to research various product
lines for more details on a specific treatment.
............................................
Exfoliation DRY BRUSH
This involves the use of a loofah, brush, washcloth, orsponge to exfoliate
dead surface skin in a mechanical manner (Figure 8-1). Normally this is a
prelude to a body treatment of some kind and, as such, is not a chargeable
service (normally 10 minutes in a full-body treatment). If, however, the dry
brush is a treatment by itself with just a finishing lotion and enough timeis
given to it (30 minutes),then it can become a chargeable service.The main
purpose is to stimulate circulation (see chapter 9 for details).
SALT GLOW
Special salt is mixed withan oil or liquid soap to exfoliate the entire body or
just an area for a spot treatment (Figure8-2). This treatment when done alone
on the full body followed by a lotion constitutes a chargeable service (30
FIGURE 8-1 Exfoliate dead surface minutes).When done as part of a spot treatment, such as a spa pedicure or
skin in order to stimulate circulation. manicure where salt is a quick exfoliant( 5 minutes),it’s normally includedin
body polishes, the product has a cream base with granules of the abrasive
to exfoliate and condition or soften the skin at the same time. Body pol-
ishes may take a little more time thansalt glows depending on the texture
and removal process. Body polishes may be done in 30-45 minutes as a
treatment alone or in 5- 10 minutes with spot treatments. Leah Kovitz, for-
merly of Canyon Ranch, developed a very special body polish called the
Parisian Body Polish, which utilizescrushed pearls. This is an elegant, luxu-
rious body polish.Many body polishes should not be used on the face. Be
sure to check withyour manufacturer. If the polish is aggressive, shavingor
waxing for a day or two before should be avoided.
ENZYME AND AHA DISSOLVING EXFOLIANTS

Even though some proteolytic enzymes such as papaya can dissolvedead
skin in a quite effectiveand aggressive way, we should not actually callthese
peels. They are, but when the consumer thinks of a peel the normal thought
process is a chemical peelsuch as TCA (trichloraceticacid)or phenol. These
are not recommended for use by a beauty practitioner. We do, however,
often use the popular AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) such as glycolic acidand
lactic acid, and some BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) such as salicylic acid.The
AHAs are effective in dissolving dead cells. The difference betweenscrubs
and AHAs or enzymes is simply that scrubs and polishes abrade the dead
cells off and the AHAs and enzymes dissolve dead cells that areready to be
sloughed off (Figure 8-4). Although the enzyme type is more aggressive,
there can be more skin irritation due to the mechanical action of rubbing
too much. Some manufacturers are now including AHAs in abrasive scrubs.
This may be redundant so choose and use carefully. Waxingor shaving should
be avoided for one or two days before.
FIGURE 8-4 Apply enzyme and AHA exfoliantswith a brush. The exfoliantwill dissolve dead cells
that are readyto be sloughed off.
CHAPTER 8 Body Treatments and TreatmentDevelopment 95
............................................
SPA POINT
in treatment to be more effective. Mechani-
Exfoliants allow whatever else is used
cal products such as scrubs, brushes,etc. abrade dead cells ojf, whereasAH&
and enzymes dissolve dead cells.They are all importantto allow the skin to be
more conduciveto absorbing nutrients.
............................................
F&Body Treatments FULL-BODY SEAWEED MASK
Seaweed powdersare normally mixed with waterto form a pancake-batter-
like consistency. Different combinations of seaweed may be usedfor differ-
ent effects on the body. Some companies have the seaweed in an already
mixed wet form. The mixture is applied to the entire body over a condi-
tioner, lotion,or ampouleif desired. The entire body may be covered orthe
stomach, breasts, and buttocks may be eliminated accordingto the desire
of the client and technician.The body is then wrapped in foil or plastic as
has been discussed in the previous chapter and the client rests for 20-30
minutes (Figure 8-5).
Full-body seaweed masks often work with essential oils added to the
mask for different effectson the body. A variety of results canbe obtained
based uponthe essential oils included, from calmingto stimulatingto detoxi-
fying. The full-bodyseaweed mask treatment normally takes about 60 min-
utes. Allow 15 minutes between clients for cleanup andsales.
FULL-BODY MUD MASK

There are a variety of muds available onthe market, from sea-based muds
to clay muds and fango (volcanic ash and sulfur from Italy),from moor mud
(the noted Remy Laure Moor Mud from the boggy moors) to glacial mud.
Depending on the mud, the effects may be to cleanse and draw out impuri-
ties, tocondition and mineralizethe body, orto just soften and hydratethe
skin. Mud is normally warmed in a plastic container (some suggest avoid-
ing metal bowls or microwaveheating) in hot water orin a double boiler (if
available) before application. The manufacturer will make specific recom-
mendations. The mud is applied thickly (Figure 8-6) and the body is then
wrapped in plastic or foil and allowed to rest for 20-30 minutes. It’s wise
FIGURE 8-5 Wrap the body in foil or
plastic so that the client is warm and not to apply mud onthe palms of the hands in case the client has to scratch
comfortable. or grab something, or the feet in case the client has to go to the restroom.
A full mud treatment normally takes about 60 minutes. Allow 15 minutes
between clients for cleanup and selling.
CHAPTER 8 Body Treatments and Treatment Development 97
minutes. Allow 5-10 minutes between clients for cleanup and selling. Un-
derstand that the wet sheets are heavy and very hot. Thick long rubber
gloves mustbe worn by the technician. The average technician cando only
four to six wraps a day without tiring fromthe weight of sheets. The linen
sheets normally do not touch the client’s body directly.
PARAFFIN BODY WRAP

Paraffin when applied to the body formsan occlusive mask withheat. This
helps the body to perspire and the trapped moisture absorbs into the skin
with whatever nutrients have been put on the skin first or from the oils in
the paraffin, Paraffin may be used alone mixed or with mud,as in a parafango
mud, or with seaweed as in a paraffin seaweed. Some technicians paint
paraffin directly on the body with a large paint brush. It is more hygienic
and effective to take large strips of gauze, dip them in the paraffin, and
mold them to the different parts of the body being treated (Figure 8-8).
Several layerswill be applied, the more layers,the greater the heat and the
longer it will last. After applyingthree to five layersof paraffinesoaked gauze,
the body is wrapped in plastic orfoil and allowed to rest for 15-20 minutes.
When the paraffin has cooled off,there is no need to keep it on the body,
so removal is appropriate. In a full-body treatment, allow 60 minutes for
completion and 15 minutes between clients for cleanup andsales.
Paraffin is commonly done as a spot treatment for hands and feet,
the back or the face. Basically the procedurewill be the same,but in the
case of hands and feet, there areinsulated or electric mittens and boo-
ties available to facilitate the holding of heat. Do not turn on the electric
booties or mittens.
BODY MASSAGE
Body massage is probably the most basic and most important spa daytreat-
ment available andthe most appreciatedby the client.There are many varia-
FIGURE 8-8 T h e gauze has been customized to fit the client’s 6ody before dipping in the paraffin.
tions from the basic Swedish to sports, deeptissue, Shiatsu,aromatherapy,

manual lymph drainage(MLD),and reflexology. Sometimesthe more sophis-
ticated massages, suchas aromatherapy and manual lymph drainage, have
an extra charge. Massages are normally charged by the half-houror hour but
are, in actuality,25 and 55 minutes respectively. Mostspas book massageson
the hour and half-hour. This will vary somewhat when done in combination
with spa body treatments,which is, of course, the desired goal.
FULL-BODY FACIAL
This is a treatment similar to a facial treatment. The treatment includes
cleansing, exfoliation,steam, extractions on the back if necessary, massage
(half-or full hour), mask, and finishing lotion. This is a very popular treat-
ment and can be booked for 60 or 90 minutes. Allow 15 minutes for cleanup
and selling.The steam portion of this can be done with a facial steamer, hot
towels, or a steam shower beforehand.
BODY TANNING/BRONZING
Of great popularity recentlyand a good way to convince your client to avoid
sun as much as possible, this treatment consists of a full-body exfoliation
and then application of a tanning emulsion. The tanning product is nor-
mally included in the treatment. The technician uses the retail bottle to
apply and then gives the client the rest to take home to maintain the tan-
ning process. The exfoliation is essential to make sure that the tanning so-
lution goes on smoothly. The results of the tanning are muchmore effective
when applied by the professional in the salon with the follow up done at
home by the client. This treatment can be done in 30-45 minutes depend-
ing on the client, skin condition, and product beingused. Allow 5- 10 min-
utes for cleanup and selling.
............................................
SPA POINT
There is a vast array of com6inations of treatments for the whole body. Most
include some hhd of mash and wrap to seal in the nutrients, cause perspiration,
and stimulate the circulation.
............................................
Spot Treatments Sometimes spot treatments arejust mini versions of the full-body treatment.
Sometimes specificspot treatments aredone in conjunction with a full-body
treatment. For example, a special firming bust treatment may done
be under-
neath the full-body seaweed or mud mask. The advantage of doing some
spot treatments with a full-body treatment is the fact that often the area is
covered with a mud or seaweed mask and wrappedjust as in a full-body.So if
the client is having mud or seaweed applied and then is being wrapped up
and allowed to rest for 20-30 minutes, why not combine a couple of extra
spot treatments that aresimilar at the same time? Coordinationof additives
to masks, essential oils, or ampoule applications; types and lengths of mas-
sages; and the mask format will determine when you can or cannot mix.
FIGURE 8-9 A whirlpool foot bath can be an important part of a day spa pedicure.
Remember to combine like treatments. If you’re doinga mud maskand

the firming bust treatment calls fora mud mask, then you can likely mix the
two.If a product is supposed to beapplied and quickly wipedoff, then you
wouldn’t wantto put it under a mask that is supposed to sit for 20 minutes.
Refer to your manufacturer for specific guidelineson what mixes with what,
and see chapter 12 for procedures.
SPA MANICURE, SPA PEDICURE

Many things can be done in a regular manicure or pedicure to qualify the
treatment as “spa.”This can be as simple as exfoliating with a scrub or
enzyme. It may be because a whirlpool-type foot bath is used and essential
bath oils are included in the water (Figure8-9).It may be because the mas-
sage is performed with essential oils mixed in. And finally,the hands/arms
and feet/legs may be enveloped in mud or seaweed masks and wrapped up
just like for the full-body.The wrap for hands and feet shouldlast no more
than about 10 minutes. The important characteristic that makes the mani-
cure or pedicure a spatreatment is the emphasis and specific steps devel-
oped for the treatment.It will normally add anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes
for a regular manicure or pedicure, so pricing should follow suit. As men-
tioned previously, paraffin can also be included for an additional charge.
Paraffin alone should not really constitute a spa treatment since it’s been
used in salons for years. But if exfoliation, aromatherapy massage, or spe-
cial essential oil baths are done, then the paraffin falls quite well into the
spa treatment category.
SPA HAND AND FOOT TREATMENT

This treatment would concentrate on exfoliation and massage, most likely
with aromatherapy additives and perhaps a mud or seaweed mask. The
important difference in this and the spa manicure or spa pedicure is the
fact that the nailsaren’t treated.This treatment will be centered on the skin
and underlying tissues, not on the glamourside. Estheticians, for example,
i will often do spa hand and foot treatments even though.they don’t know
how to do a manicure or pedicure. I f doing both hands and feet, allow 30
minutes total. If only doing hands or feet, this should be about a 10-15
minute add-on to another treatment. Otherwise it is not cost effective to
block the time just for a 15-minute treatment. It would then be better to
book a spa manicure or pedicure instead. Allow 5- IO minutes for cleanup
and selling.
SCALP TREATMENT OR SCALP AND NECK TREATMENT

This is a great treatment for the cosmetologist or spa technician to per-
form. A great scalptreatment will naturally ruin the hairdo so it’simportant
to be able to wash and restyle it. The hair should at least be shampooed
and blown dry. The client must be informed in advance if styling can‘t be
done. This isn’tto say that styling can’t be an extra charge.Spas price scalp
treatments alone orin conjunction with a shampoo/style. Scalp treatments
are designed to really clean, condition,and soften the scalp. The treatment
is invigorating and refreshing. Most often a scalp treatment includes mas-
sage with oil or essential oils and a cleansing and conditioning mask. This
mask could be mud, seaweed, or any other mask appropriate for the goal.
The massage should last about 15 minutes, the mask about IO minutes.
After the mask has been applied, the head may be steamed with a facial
steamer, hot towels, or steam dryer if available. Sometimes, the head is
covered with foil or plastic and then wrapped in hot towels to keep the heat
in longer. The treatment time should be no more than 30 minutes. Allow 5-
10 minutes for cleanup and sales.
CELLULITE
This isundoubtedly one of the most populartreatments for women. Cellulite
is a constant battle and one without cure.The spa treatments available for
cellulite reductionand control helpbut are nota panacea. Never claim eradi-
cation of the cellulite.We can only facilitate the control. Remember, cellulite
control requiresa concerted effort on the part of the client who mustdrink
lots of water, eat a high fiber diet, get lots of active exercise, obtain treat-
ments, and use products effective to help in the elimination. All of these
facets must be involved in the cellulite control program;one alone will not
reduce cellulite. Also,as you do cellulite treatments, be careful not to refer
to them as slimming or weight-losstreatments. This is not under thescope
of our licensure.At the present time, theFDA does not recognizeEMS (elec-
tric muscle stimulator)devices for ouruse. All we’re doingin cellulite treat-
ment is to help the bodyrid itself of cellulite through the active stimulation
of the circulation and elimination processes. This is effectively done with
aggressive massage, stimulating oils, and mud and seaweed wraps.
The cellulitetreatment normally consists of exfoliation, applicationof a
substance that stimulates the circulation and metabolic processes, mas-
sage, and then a mud or seaweed mask (Figure 8-10).The wrap is done as
The area-shoulders, knees, lower back, neck, or wherever there is stress-is

exfoliated and massaged well, and thentreatment substances and the mud
or seaweedmasks are applied (Figure8-11). Essential oils suchas pine, rose-
mary, cinnamon, and thyme are very effectivein stimulating the circulation to
those areasand the massage relaxesthe warmed muscles. The mask then
furthers thewarming, relaxingeffects.The area is wrapped in foil orplastic as
usual and allowedto rest for 15-20 minutes. The total treatment time should
be about 30 minutes with 5- 10 minutes for cleanup andsales. This is excel-
lent to combine with a body massage or other full-body treatment.
FIRMING BUST TREATMENT

There are no treatments short of surgery that will increase or decrease the
bust size. However, bust treatments are very effective for improving skin
condition and texture, strengthening the pectoral muscles, and generally
toning up the area. When the bust area is in better tone, there is a slight
lifting effect that may be viewed by some asa sort of increase. It’snot, but
the lifting effect feelsso. As shy as American women are about having bust
treatments, if the truth beknown, there probably isn’ta soul out there who
wouldn’t like a better bustline. Additionally, a series of weekly bust treat-
ments will dramatically improve any bust surgical procedure, and treatment
is also good afterward when a physician calls for massageto keep an im-
plant supple. The massage is part of the treatment and becomes a great
marketable resource.
Though treatments are important,selling them is another story. If you
find it difficult to sell bust treatments, begin by offering home care prod-
ucts. When the client gets usedto theactivity of applying them and seeing
FIGURE 8-12 Apply a stimulating product to the breasts, and massage.

FIGURE 8-13 Cleanse and exfoliate the Gack Gefore extracting pustules and comedones.
a minor result, it should then be fairly easy to get the client back intothe
spa for professionaltreatment. The treatment consists of a mild exfoliation
followed by the application of a stimulating product (similar to thatused in
cellulite or stress relief treatments but milder) and massage (Figure 8-12).
The massage is done on the soft tissue, avoiding the nipple area. A sea-
weed or mud mask is applied, and then the area is covered with foil or
plastic. Some interesting thermal heating mineral clay masks andtreatments
are available.They warm, harden, and mold to the bust area and are highly
effective. The treatment time should be under 30 minutes with 10-15 min-
utes allowed after for consultation, cleanup, and sales.
BACK TREATMENT OR BACK FACIAL

The back isa wonderful area forspot treatments.In fact, back facials have
been done for many years as partof the esthetician’s repertoire. As a spa
concept, the main addition would be in the area of essential oils for
aromatherapy massage and sea or mud masks. The client can’t reach his/
her own back well and thisis an area of congestion, dead cell buildup, dry-
ness, and itchiness, and is, therefore, a prime target for treatment. If your
client base is one that attends many formal parties where women wear
open-backed gowns, thiswill be a big seller.
Although the treatment may vary extensively, the basic concept fol-
lows: Cleanse, exfoliate, steam the back, and extract pustules and come-
dones if necessary (Figure 8-13). Perform a relaxing massage and apply a
mud or seaweed mask. The back will be covered with foil or plastic and
allowed to sit for 15-20 minutes. This treatment may be done in 30 min-
utes if the exfoliation or extraction processes are not long. Sometimes it
is better to charge a little more and allow for a longer treatment. Book 1
hour for a 45-minute treatment. This will allow plenty of time for the best
FIGURE 8-14 Spa facials should include seaweed, mud, andlor aromatherapy, something that will
relax the client while gently treating the face.
treatment and greatmassage. A good back treatment will go far in selling

your other spa services.
SPA FACIAL
This is an interesting term for a facial treatment that may concentrate on
the mud or seaweed maskor include aromatherapy in the massage. In real-
all spa-like substances for many years. But if the
ity, facials have utilized the
treatment highlights these concepts, there’s nothing wrongwith naming it
spa facial. If you want to doa spa facial be sure to include seaweed, mud,
aromatherapy-something that will make it more spa conducive (Figure8-
14). Remember, however,that most scrubs, salt, and other body exfoliants
may be toostrong for the face. Double checkwith the manufacturer.
............................................
SPA POINT
Spot treatments are very much in demand. They are quick, easy, and profit-
able, particularly when done in conjunction with a full-body mask, massage,
or other treatment. Of all the ones listed, probably the back, cellulite, and
antistress are the most popular. Be sure some form of these are offered in your
day spa.
............................................
massage. Other showering devices would be used after the body treatment. The massage would be last.
CHAPTER 8 Body Treatments and Treatment Development 105
..................................................................
TABLE OF TREATMENT TIMES
I
general rule, 30 extra minutes should be allowed with a first-time client and 15 minutes thereafterfor cleanup and selling
time. Also, remember that technically for every hydrotherapy treatment equal time should be allowed for resting.
Therefore, to make the most of the time and still care properly for the client, try to book a treatment in ambination with
the hydrotherapy treatment. This will avoid unnecessary time loss.
-
Wrap or Mask Cleanup, Selling
Treatment Name Treatment Time Waiting Time Time Total Booking Time
Dry brush alone 30 minutes none 5- IO minutes 45 minutes
Dry brush with treatment IO minutes none 5-10 minutes depends on treatment
Salt/cond. 30 minutes none 5-10mlnutes 45 minutes
Salt with treatment 5 minutes none 5- IO minutes depends on treatment
Body polish 30 minutes none 5-10 minutes 45 minutes
Body polish with treatment 5- IO minutes none 5-10 mmutes depends on treatment
Enzyme or AHA 5-20 minutes few minutes 5- IO minutes 30-45 minutes
Full-body seaweed 45 minutes 30 minutes 15 minutes 1 hour
Full-body mud 45 minutes 30 minutes 15 minutes 1 hour
Herbal wrap 30 minutes 20 minutes 5-10 minutes 30-45 minutes
Full-body paraffin 45 minutes 30 mlnutes 15 minutes 1 hour
Body massage 30 minutes or none 15 minutes 45 minutes or 1 hour
1 hour
Body facial 1 or 1 1/2 hours 10-20 minutes 15 minutes 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 hours
Body tanning 30 minutes none 5- IO minutes 45 minutes
Spa manicure/pedicure 15-30 minutes added IO- 15 minutes if mask or 5- IO minutes 45 minutes
to regular time wrap done
Hand/foot treatment 20-30 minutes IO- 15 minutes if mask or 5- IO mmutes 45 minutes
wrap done
Scalp 30 minutes IO- 15 minutes 5- IO minutes 45 minutes
Cellulite 30 minutes 15-20minutes 15 mmutes 45 minutes
Antistress 30 minutes 15-20 minutes 15 minutes 45 minutes
Bust 30 minutes 15-20minutes 15 minutes 45 minutes
Back 30-45 minutes 15-20 minutes 15 minutes 45 minutes to 1 hour
Spa facial normal facial time IO- 15 minutes 15 minutes 1 hour to 1 1/2 hours
COMBINING TREATMENTS WITH HYDROTHERAPY

Any and all treatments can be combinedwith hydrotherapy and massage.
It's best toconsider a combination of two to threemodalities at most until
you know the client's tolerance level well. Combiningor layeringtreatments
effectively is what makesthe whole spa concept so wonderful forthe client
and profitablefor the salon. The followingwill represent a few of the com-
mon combinations.There are endless combinations andnames. In Day Spa
Operations, a great deal of emphasis will be put on packages and naming.
Please understand that these are merely a few suggestions on common

combinations. You may devise your own.
Swiss Shower Combine with:

1. Massage
2. Spot treatment and full-body treatment
3. Mud
4. Massageandparaffin
The regular or Swiss showerwill be done after the treatment for warming,
invigorating, and rinsing purposes. Ideally the shower should be close by.
The treatment will be done in the treatment room not in the shower.They
just bookwell together.
I Shower Combine with:

1 . Salt glow
2. Mud
3. Seaweed
This is the best treatment combination for products that are hard to get off.
It’sgreat to do the treatment in the Vichy shower room andthen make the
Vichy shower part of the treatment as well as the rinsing device.
Steam Shower Combine with:

1. Herbalwraps
2. Spot treatments
3. Aromatherapy massage
Again, the shower will be done after the treatment. Treatment will be done
in a treatment room not in the shower.
Hydrotherupy Tu6 Combine with:

1. Additives in the tub such as essential oils, seaweed, some muds, milk,
bath salts, without underwatermassage
2. Underwater massage followed by a mud or seaweed wrap
3. Massage, 30 minutes or 1 hour
4. Full-body mask and massage
Do not attempt to combine too many spot treatments and full-bodytreat-
ments after a tub treatment, particularly if essential oils have been added
or if underwater massage is performed. This client will likely overtire. Keep
the combinations simple with hydrotherapy tub treatments. The tub itself
should be the highlight. A simple massage is probably the best combina-
tion. If the client is very healthy, a massage and full-body mask is great.
............................................
SPA POINT
The combivratiovr of hydrotherapy avrd treatmevrt greatly ivrtevrsifies the effect of
either 6y itself. Do Mot overtreat the clievrt. 11's safer lo do fewer combinutions
uvrtil you hvrow how your clievrt havrdles it all.
............................................
SCHEDULING
The most important and most difficult part about developing a good spa
program is the scheduling. A major mistake most spas make is to book
appointments back to back. I f you have assistants and cleanup people as
is fine. Butif your technician is to do the cleanup,
well as counter retailers, this
get ready for the next client, consult with the existing client, and sell prod-
ucts you must allow time for this to take place. The retail sales will suffer
horribly if you don't allow enough time.For a first-time client, an extra half-
hour shouldbe allowed for good consultation and sales.Thereafter,at least
15 minutes is necessary between appointments, and more should be al-
lowed if hydrotherapy and wet rooms are involved. Cleaning a wet room
and tubcan take a good 15 minutes alone. When y o u r operation becomes
quite busy, the addition of an assistant to clean up andprepare for the next
client is a natural money makerfor you. Remember that y o u r big profitsare
not in service but in product sales.
The treatments listed in this chapter are just the basics. From here addi-
Synopsis tives, naming, packages, and combinations make your spa unique and in-
teresting. As eager as you may be to have a client sample everything, be
careful not to combine too many services together, particularly if hydro-
therapy is involved, especiallywith a tub and underwater massage.
1. What is necessary to make body treatments successful?

Review
2. What are somecommon contraindications of body treatment?
3. Why is a salt glow good to offer in a day spa?
4. Can spa treatments cure cellulite? What can be expected?
5. Name the full-body treatments discussed in this chapter.
6. What are the three most popular spot treatments?
7. How does hydrotherapy in combination with treatments affectthe treat-
ment?
CHAPTER 9
ExfoliatioM
OVERVIEW
The term exfoliatim is commonly used to mean the removal of dead skin
cells. According to Webster’s Niuth New Collegiate Dictiomry, exfoliate is de-
fined as, ’’ 1 : to split into orgive off scales, laminae, or body cells 2: to come
off in thin layers or scales.._ ” So our terminology is quite accurate. It has
only been in recent years that this term has been popularized to the con-
sumer. Now when a consumer hears the word exfoliant , it is generally well
understood to mean dead skin removal.
REASONS FOR EXFOLIATION

The important question to consider is, why remove dead skin? Isn‘t there
supposed to be a layer of dead skin on the surface to protect us? Isn’t it
often called thedead skin layer or horny layer after the driedup keratin on
the surface?The answer to these questions is yes. The problem we have is
an overabundance of dead skin cells. This overabundance can cause the
skin to clog, comedones and pustules to form in areas where theyare prone
to occurring, dryness and flakiness to occur. In recent years, researchers
have discovered that often the culprit in oily acne skin is not really choco-
late and similar substances, but rather a phenomenon called hyperkeratini-
zation and clogging, This simply means that the skin has a n overabundance
of dead cells and it clogs up with natural body oils, dirt, and debris. The
consumer is now becoming more aware of this and the need to remove the
dead cells in order to keep the skin from clogging.
But all of what has been discussed so far connotes facial care. What
about dead cells onthe body?We are accustomed to thinking about cleans-
ing the face and removing dead cells, but wouldn’t you think the body needs
it just as much? Well, it does for the most part. The only real advantage the
body has is that it’s covered most of the time and oil production isn’t as
prolific. However, removalof dead skin cells from the body is just as impor-
tant. This removal can bedone in a number of ways at home and at the day
spa, and a number of different types of tools and agents facilitate thedead
cell removal. But before going into the treatments, what does exfoliation
provide? Exfoliation,..
, , . perks up skin color and clarity.

... unclogs the folliclesand pores.
. , , allows the skin to breathe better.
. .. allows moisturizers, lotions, serums
etc. to penetrate theskin better.
108
CHAPTER 9 Exfoliatiorl I09
, . . improves the skin’s texture and makes

it smoother.
, .. stimulates the skin’s overall functions and increases
circulation.
Exfoliation, therefore, is the first and most important treatment to be per-

formed in a viable skin and body care treatment. The subsequent treat-
ment goalswill be greatly enhancedby the exfoliationprocess. The problem
with exfoliation is that because it‘sso effective and obvious, it’squite easy
to overexfoliate. People who have used abrasives on their face daily for
years have shown to have a skin thickening with time. This windsup being
unattractive and, in fact, can make the skin look quite leathery in a way
similar to inveterate sun bathers over decades of sun abuse. It is important
to remember at all times that exfoliation is good but not too much too
often.It’sbetter to be on the conservative side of treatment. Additionally,
depending on the exfoliantand how it is used, it’s possible to increase the
skin‘s own sensitivity to other topical substances, so caution is advisable
with all exfoliants. This is why exfoliation should be under the control and
direction of a licensed professional.
............................................
SPA POINT
Exfoliants are the first step in viable treatments in order to remove dead shin so
that the subsequerzt treatments will be more effective,to smooth and improve skin
texture. However,overexfoliation is not good and with time can increase skin
sensitivity and cause shin thickening. Therefore, exfoliation should be under the
control and direction of a licensed professional.
............................................
TYPES OF EXFOLIANTS
In spa treatments we will be dealing with two basic typesof exfoliants, me-
chanical exfoliantsand enzymatic or dissolving exfoliants. We generally do
not use chemical peels such as trichloracetic acid or resorcinol. These are
chemical peels normally under the control of a physician. In reality, they
aren’t needed for normal body treatment. Let’s look at what’s availablein
mechanical and dissolving exfoliants.
Mechanical Exfoliants Mechanical exfoliantsare calledthis because theynormallyinvolve a me-

chanical process of rubbing to accomplish the exfoliation. These
work from
an abrasive standpoint, the substance and the hands in a rubbing format.
DRY BRUSH
Brushes, much like a hairbrush, stimulate the circulation
and buff off dead
cells. Nylon mitts, loofah sponges and mitts, and abrasive cloths are all
designed to worklike the brush to remove dead cells (Figure 9-1). Most
brushes are made of natural goat’s hair or other bristle. Some are more
FIGURE 9-1 Exfoliating the back with an abrasive mitt.
abrasive thanothers, and in different situations you may choose touse one
tool over another. For those with facial equipment, the brush device on
your machine may also be used with the larger body brush attachment if
desired. They are usually used as a lead-in to a body treatment to stimulate
the blood flow and to make the treatment work better. Or it can bedone by
itself as atype of exfoliating massage.
Whether doing it as a lead-in to a treatment or by itself as a stimulating
massage, it should be done ideally on dryskin. If the skin is too sensitive, it
may be done on wet skin. In either case, the massage movements should be
gentle and rhythmical, but not irritating or uncomfortable. A slight erythema
(reddening)of the skin is fine, butdon't overdo it. Dry brushing when done
alone as a massage treatment can be done slowly and in more detail, taking
as long as 30 minutes for the whole body. When dry brushing priorto treat-
ment, the whole procedure should take only about 10 minutes. Dry brushing
before certainspot treatments is effective as well, particularly before
a cellulite
treatment. The dry brushing should take place immediately before the appli-
cation of the cellulite treatment products and mask.
PROCEDURE
1. With the client lying on the back, the dry brushing beginswith the foot
(top and bottom) and proceeds up the front and sides of the leg. You
can also brush the back first before client lies down.
2. The client is slightly turned now to dry brush the back of the leg, but-
tocks, and up one half of the back.
3. The upper shoulders and arms are brushed.
4. The back of the neck, chest (very gently), andstomach (if desired) are
brushed. The bust area is not drybrushed.When brushing the stomach,
remember to go in a clockwise direction.
,. 5 Move to thefoot of the other leg and repeat the entire process.
CHAPTER 9 Exfoliation 1 1 1
F
toward the he&.
Another nice alternative is to dry brush the back while the client is sitting
up before lying down.
SANITATION
Even though the client normally wasn't wet down for this treatment, the
brushes, loofah, mitts,or whatever clothwas used must be thoroughly cleaned,
disinfected, and dried between clients. This means that you should have sev-
eral sets ready for a day's work. It takes a while forthe brushesto dry.
SALT
As previously stated, you are not to work with plain table salt. It's very
abrasive and can easily burn a client. Normally, special salts are used, often
sea salt or Dead Seasalt. Be sure the salt is smoothly refined and comfort-
able for use on the client. There may be somedifferences betweenmanu-
facturers, but most salt should not be used alone dry. Also, keep in mind
that when doing most exfoliatingtreatments but particularly with salt, you
don't want the client to wax or shave for two days priorto the treatment.
Salt should be mixed with a liquid substance to make it move and glide
over the skin easily (Figure 9-2). If showering facilitiesare available it's nice
to mix salt with a bath gel liquid soap or, if not, with a disappearing mas-
sage oil. After the massage oil disappears, the salt residue can be dusted
off the body.
A salt glow or salt exfoliation can be done asa treatment by itself. When
doing a salt glow as a single treatment,the treatmentwill always end with the
application of a body lotion and quick penetrating massage. If the saltis done
with another treatment, it's still charged for but the procedure is done more
quickly and is not quite so detailed. The amount of salt to solvent depends
on the delicacy of the skin and whether the clientis hairy. Use less salt for
delicate skin. Use extra oil or liquid soap for men with a lot of hair. Some
technicians like to use a loofah mitt with the salt mixture but in most cases
this is too harsh and uncomfortablefor the client.
PROCEDURE
1. Put 2-4 tablespoons of salt in a bowl with 1/4 cup oil or shower gel.For
stronger exfoliation, add more salt. For delicate skin reduce salt. For
men, double the oil or shower gel amount to increase slip on hairy
areas. Salt plus oil should be used where showeris not readily available
or not desired. Application in oil and dustingoff salt residue takes more
time than showering. Salt plus shower gel soap should be used only
when showering off. Otherwisethe soap will dry out the skin. Shower
gel or soap may be amatter of personal choice or variation for regular
clients when showering is always the rinsing method.
112 SalonOvation'sDay Spa Techniques
FIGURE 9-2 Salt glow treatments slide over the skin and exfoliate the dead surface cells.
2. Normally plastic coversa bed coveredwith a blanket, sheet, bath towel.

If dusting the salt off, the plastic will be rolled off under the client. If
showering, the plastic will be removed whilethe client is showering.
3. The application procedurewill be the same as listed above for dry brush-
ing starting with the feet and moving up. Again,if desired, the back may
be donebefore the client lies down.
4. The client is either led to the shower to rinse off or is dusted off with
dry towel. In both cases the plastic is removed. Client shouldbe lying
on a clean dry towel overa sheet.
5. After rinsing or dusting, the client will be rubbed down and massaged
with a finishing lotion, oil, or cream. The treatment is finished. If salt is
being done before a body wrap, for example, the beginning of the body
treatment will begin when the client returns from the shower or when
the plastic has been removed. The bodytreatment will end also with a
body lotion so it is not necessary to apply lotiw atthis point.
BODY POLISH
The term body polishing can be used for any form of granular scrub. It's advis-
able to use this termfor scrubs to differentiate from salt rubs, even though
technically salt could be considered a body polish as well. Body polishes
are scrubs containing some type of grain-polyethylene balls, pumice,
oatmeal, ground-up nuts, and others. (Figure 9-3).There are myriad differ-
ent types of body polishes. As mentioned previously, the Parisian Body
Polish of Leah Kovitz is made up of crushed pearls. The exfoliating granules
can makea big difference in the comfort level of the client. The creambase
that it's in will also make a difference. If the granules are harsh, the base
CHAPTER 9 Exfoliation I 13
should be heavy and creamy. If the granules are more delicate, the base
could even bea liquid shower gel. Lookat various scrubs on the market to
find the ones thatsuit your purposes.
If you plan to use a scrub on the face, be sure it’s a very gentle one,
particularly if it’s available for retail.I personally do not like any granular
scrubs for the face because I feel most clients tend to be too aggressive
with them. Some scrubs are difficult to use on men andsome are much too
abrasive for delicate skin. Choose carefully and use gently. Thedegree of
pressure and amount of rubbing will largely influence the strength of the
treatment. As with salt, the body polish can beadded toanother treatment
or be a treatment alone. Similar to salt,the treatment will end with a body
lotion orconditioner.
PROCEDURE
1. Be sure the bed is set up with a blanket, sheet, and plastic sheet. The
client will lie on the plastic sheet.
2. Take approximately 4-6 tablespoons of the scrub out of the jar, replace
the cap, and work out of a bowl. The amount varies dramaticallyfrom
supplier to supplier. Again use more for men,less for delicate skin.
3. The application procedure will be the same as for dry brushing. This
time, however, if the scrub is quite gentle, you may choose to do the
bust area carefully (always avoid the nipples). Adjust pressure and
amount according to the body and product being used.
4. After the entire bodyis polished, the client will shower off the scrub and
residue. Soap is not normally recommendedto use in the showering.
FIGURE 9-3 Body polish (scrub) is ru66ed on the leg.

5. The plastic is removed and the client is placed on a fresh, clean towel
for the final applicationof body lotion.If a body orspot treatment is to
follow, do not apply lotionat this pointbut begin the other treatment.
n
although not impossible to remove body polishes in a dry environment. You will normally want to use hot towels to
remove the polish and residue.
............................................
SPA POINT
Mechanical exfoliants are very popular and give a great “spa” aura. The dry
brush technique is used most often when a client is having another body treat-
ment and is not purchasing a salt glow or body polish to rev up the skin. Ideally,
salt will be the most popular in the spa because it’s not retailed, which brings the
client back. Most body polishes are also retailed so they are good for home care
follow-up. It‘s great to have both for variation forthe frequent spa client.
............................................
Enzyme or Dissolving Dissolving exfoliantscomprise two concepts, one being the proteolyticen-
zymes such as lip0 amino acids or papaya enzymes. The other one is part of
Exfoliants the families of AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) or fruit acids, and BHAs (beta
hydroxy acids) such as salicylic acid.The potential advantage of dissolving
exfoliants over the mechanical ones lies in the lack of rubbing necessity.For
example, if someone has recently had a face-lift you wouldn’t wantto rub the
face witha scrub but could easily paint on an enzyme or AHA and thendeli-
cately rinse it off without muchskin movement at all. Dependingon the prod-
uct, the dissolving type are normally stronger than mechanical exfoliants.
They work more aggressively at dissolving dead cells butdon’t overstimulate
the skin from an abrasion standpoint. The mechanical exfoliants work ag-
gressively from a rubbing standpoint, hence can irritatethe skin more than
dissolving exfoliants. This, of course, depends entirely on the different
strengths of the various productscompared.This is a bitof an oversimplifica-
tion. Look to your manufacturers for specifics of their products. Many manu-
facturers carryboth and recommend both for different purposes. Let’s have
a look at the dissolving exfoliants now.
ENZYMES
Enzymes have been popular for years in two formats-wash-off type and
rub-off type. These have often been called rub-off peels. They are not peels,
but the term was used to describe the effect of dead cell removal through
the dissolution of keratin by proteins. Then the residue to the substance
along withthe deadskin wasrubbed off by the technician (Figure9-4).This
type of exfoliant is still quite popular and used often for the face as well as
the body. Even with the rub-off type, some of these enzyme exfoliants can
also be washed off if rubbing is too sensitizing for the skin. Most often even
if you can’t rub it off the face, rubbing the body will be quite tolerable. In
CHAPTER 9 Exfoliation 1 15
many cases, if the enzyme is designed to wash off, you'll still achievea great
exfoliation withoutthe redness or irritationfrom rubbing it off.Some manu-
facturers recommend usingsteam with the product, and many specifically
state that the skin must be dry so that the protein can functionat its best.
Follow your manufacturer's directionon this.
Many of the enzyme exfoliants are a mixture of a number of herbs, which
are oftenkept secret by the manufacturer to preserve the uniquenessof the
treatment. The FDA does not require specific ingredient listing for a profes-
sional treatment, only forthe retailproducts,so this secret can be kept if they
desire. However, in case of an allergic reaction, this can be quite
a problem.
You may want to choose a product that liststhe ingredients voluntarilyany-
way. The herbalcombinations are often quite stronger than the more elem
tary rub-off type. The followingdirections will work for most rub-off types.
PROCEDURE
1. The bed will be set up as always withblanket, sheet, towel, then plastic.
2. Ideally the client will take a quick shower and wash with your shower
soap/gel and dry off.The clientwill then lie on the table face up.
3. Using the same pattern as already described for dry brushing, apply
the product.The amount of product that you will use depends on the
manufacturer. It may be a cream in a tube or a powder that is mixed
with water or a solvent. If it's a cream in a tube,you will use about 3-4
tablespoons on a normal size body. If it's a powder that needs to be
mixed with water, make about 1/3 cup for the body.
4. Make a thin layer on a large section of skin. Segment in groups, for
example, do thefoot, then do thecalf. If the product requires drying or
setting up time, you can apply it to another area,come back and rub
the first area off and apply more to the next area, come back and rub
k
FIGURE 9-4 Tfie
I
technician
ru6s the exfoliant theand
dead surfaceoff tfie cells
body.
offthe second area, and so forth, alternating application and rub off.
Do not attempt to do the entire leg in one movement. This can cause
uneven drying, uneven exfoliation, and sometimes even irritation. Nor-
mally the product can be applied ratherthinly and be effective, but be
sure to checkwith your manufacturer. Areasthat have a large dead cell
buildup may require a thicker layer. Experiment until youknowyour
best level of effectiveness.
5 . Whether you should use a steamer to activate the product is up to the
manufacturer. Sometimes using a facial steamer is difficult. I f it is im-
practical and you have a steam shower or cabinet, apply product, let it
set a few minutes, then have client sit in the steam area for the neces-
sary time, and finally wash off the product and residue in the shower.
You may still have to rub a little to be sure it's all off. But usually the
client can remove it all in the showerwith the help of a large bodysponge,
shammy, or other cloth.
6. Whether the product is rubbed or washed off, be sure the body is clean
and plastic removed from the table. The client shouldagain be lying on a
clean dry towel.At this point, if the treatmentis completed,a body lotion
or cream should be massaged in to finish, or if another treatment is to
take place next, proceed. As an example, if you're doinga full-body sea-
weed wrap with foil, the foil should have been placed on the table under
the plastic orput on the tablewhen the plasticis removed whilethe client
is in the shower. In other words, if you know in advance that you will be
doing the exfoliationand a seaweed wrap with foil, the bed should be set
up in advance as follows:blanket, sheet foil, plastic.If you don't want the
I
client to lie directly on

the plasticfor the exfoliation,you may put a towel
over the plastic but both must be removedas the exfoliant is removed.
AHAS AND BHAS

The advent of glycolic acid brought about a revolution in skin care treat-
ment and exfoliation from a nonmedical standpoint. Whereas licensed
beauty practitioners couldn't prescribe Retin A, we could use glycolic acid.
As with all new things, time brings modificationsand advancements. Now
glycolic is most often teamed with other fruit acids. Some even use other
acids entirely without glycolic. Someof the BHAs such as salicylic acid have
a similar function without being as irritating. The variations often have to
do with the intended goal for the product and treatment.
I f you want to use AHAs and BHAs in treatment, that'sfine. You'll need
to obtain specific instructionsfrom your manufacturer.The important thing
to remember about the strength and intensity of the product is to look at
the percentage, the pH, and whether it is self-timed or you have to time it
with a watch. The higher percentages at very low pH (below 3) are much
more aggressive.You will need to determine your level of safety and effec-
tiveness with your manufacturer. Obviouslythe face cannot handle the stron-
ger versions as well as the body, but the body is more sensitive than YOU
CHAPTER 9 Exfoliation 1 17
acid has humectants that moisturize

may think. It'salso wise to be sure the
the skin at the same time. Some manufacturers put low levels of AHAs in
conventional exfoliantsas well so there are many choices available.
PROCEDURE
1. The bed is set up the same as for enzyme exfoliants. The client is
requested to shower and cleanse first and then lie onthe bed face up.
2. The AHA/BHA is applied to the skin. The actual procedure here may
vary dramatically between products. Some are painted on, somerubbed
on, someapplied in a paste (Figure 9-5). Follow the manufacturer's in-
structions for application,waiting time, and removal.
3. After the product has been removed by the recommended method, the
client is returned to the bed for moisturizing or to continue with the
next treatment in the same manner as step 6 in the enzyme treatment.
............................................
SPA POINT
Whether you are using a proteolytic (protein) enzyme oran AHA, the value of
having a dissolving treatment that is strictly professional and not retailed has
added benefits to the client as well as the salon. It keeps the client excited about
results and alsokeeps that client coming in. Most enzyme type exfoliantsshould
not be retailed.
............................................
FIGURE 9-5 Tfie product is painted on the body.

118 SalonOvation‘s Day SpaTechniques
Coutruiudicutions Overall, mostexfoliants are quitesafe to useonthe skin. Theclient must,

however, be taughthow and when to use them at home. In the spa, the tech-
nician should be careful in the following situations:
Do not use salt on open wounds or immediately after waxing or shav-
ing. Body polishes and dissolving exfoliantsalso shouldn’tbe used im-
mediately after waxing or shaving.
Do not use exfoliants immediately after surgical procedures where the
consent on when
skin shouldn’t be irritated or moved. Obtain physician’s
to treat.
Do not rub sensitive areas; areas of telangiectasia (varicose veins,
couperose);or areas of open wounds, infection, or inflammation.
Exfoliants that are aggressive or require a rub-off procedure shouldn’t
be used on sensitive skin areas.
Do not overexfoliate or rub too hard and fast.
Do noexfoliationon sunburns.
............................................
SPA POINT
Although exfoliaMts may 6e the star of the 6ody show, do not overuse them or
exfoliate too much. Normal cautioM should 6e used at all times.
............................................
Syuopsis There is almost no treatment around that shouldn’tbe preceded by some

type of exfoliation. The whole goalin exfoliation is to make the skin more
product friendly for all the many treatments available. The exfoliation pro-
cess is the first treatment the client receivesin body work and often for the
face as well. This gets the client off to a great start, and if you allow the
client to feel the difference in her/his skin before and after the exfoliant,
you will normally have yourselfa hooked client. The exfoliationis often the
most visually dramatic part of the treatment, atleast from the client’sview-
point. You will see more as the treatment progresses, but this is the stage
where the client is so readily impressed. I f the clientisn’t asleep, be sure the
benefits are pointed out right away. It will be most impressive.
1. What does the word exfolimt mean?

Review
2. Why are exfoliants valuable for the face and body?
3. Can you overexfoliate? If so, what happens?
4. What are the two types of exfoliants?
5. How do you choose between the two types?
CHAPTER 10
Mud Treatments
OVERVIEW
Perhaps nothing is more synonymous with spa concepts than the idea of
using mud.In advertising of spas and spa services, what is most often pic-
tured? When a body product company wants to feature a treatment, what
scene is most often depicted?Yes,that’sright, a full beautiful body slathered
with smooth, silky, green mud.
From time immemorial,we have viewed mudwith interest and curiosity.
Mud has somehow always held imagesof soothing, drawing, and healing.
In Rudyard Kipling’s lust So Stories, do you remember how the elephant got
his trunk? It was pulled and pulled by the crocodile, and after the great
stretching, the elephant’s child stuck his outstretched nose in the muddy
waters of the great grey-green, greasy LimpopoRiver and “schlooped up a
schloop of mud and slapped it on his head where it made a cool schloopy-
sloshy mud cap all trickly behind his ears.“What a great visual impression
we have from that fairy tale, which dates back to the mid-1800s. The reality
is that animals have forever bathed themselves in mud. Ancient civilizations
such as the Romans have been depictedin frescoes using mud.
Mud holds much for us in the way of nutrition, healing, andskin care.
What is it about mud that’s so unique? And why do we use it?
............................................
SPA POINT
Mud epitomizes what a spa is all about to the consumer because it’s hwn an
integral part of spa concepts from mcient times. We even read books and see
artistic representations of mud i~ applications, baths, and products so it is prob-
ably the most spa-like treatment available.
............................................
MUD IS REALLY CLAY

To research mud, you wind up studying clay.Clay is the substance; mud is
simply wet and soupy clay. Another importantword to understand in con-
nection with clay and mud is colloidal, which is defined as “a substance that
is in a state of division preventing passage througha semipermeable mem-
brane, consists of particles too small for resolution through a n ordinary
light microscope, and in suspension or solution failsto settle outand dif-
fracts a beam of light.” In simpler terms this means that clays readily sus-
pend in a n emulsion with water orother liquid substance. This is one reason
why fine-grained clays are so well used in cosmetics and other industries.
Clays are considered colloidal substances.
1 I9
Clays come from different soils and also from marine sediments. As a
general rule marine-based clays have a higher mineral content than soil-
based ones.
There are approximately eight types of clays: allophane; kaolinite;
halloysite; smectite; illite; chlorite; vermiculite; and sepiolite, attapulgite,
and polygorskite. Then there are mixtures of these.
............................................
SPA POINT
Marine-based clays generally have
a higher mineral content than soil-based
clays.
............................................
GeneralProperties Clays in general have certain properties. The category of claymayvary
according to the specific mineralcontent and microscopic shape and struc-
of Clays ture of the clay particles. In general claysall havea strong affinity for posi-
tive or negative ion exchanges. This ionic activityhas a great influence upon
the type of clay and the economic uses for the clay. Clays readily react to
temperature, especially heat. They can hold heat well, which makes them
important in mask treatments and cosmetics. Because of the ionic organic
compound’sability to hold or replace differentcompositions, clay also has
a natural affinity for oil absorption. Thus it’s used in processing oils and
also in cosmetics designed to absorb oils.
Some clay minerals serve as catalysts for other organic materialsand
the reactions can cause change in colors. Organic clay mineralsare used in
paint, ink, and plastics.
Clay and water mix well and form a nongranular suspension unless sand
is in the mixture (Figure 10-1). Thus the fine grains of clay form superior
emulsions for masks. Also because of this smooth texture, in many cultures
FIGURE 10-1 Mix the clay and water in a plastic container.

CHAPTER IO Mud Treatments I2 1
clay is mixed with water and drunk for health purposes. The Hunza popula-
tion of the Himalayas claimsthat, tosome degree, their long life and good
health is due to drinking clay on a regularbasis. Other holistic approaches
to good health include drinking a solutionof 1/2 teaspoon green clay to 8
ounces of water on a daily basis. It has been suggested that clay enriches
the blood and stimulates circulation. Thus, clay is not to be used on anyone
with high blood pressure.
Many clays are potential ores for aluminumand can be extracted. Most
often, however, bauxite is used to extract aluminum. In general, claysare
composed mainly of silica, alumina, water,iron, alkalis, and trace miner-
als. Minerals included may consist of calcium, magnesium, sodium, and
potassium. Some may include small amounts of quartz, mica, feldspar,
and iron oxides.
............................................
SPA POINT
Many 6elieve that thereis a kindred link Getween humans and mud. Mud is
active, with great ionic exchange capability. Because of this, it is used in a num-
6er of industries. Mud has a very high mineral content that can 6e translated
into therapeutic effects on the human 6ody. The variety of clays and their differ-
ent properties allow industry to use them as a natural renewable source of mate-
rial for any numberof products and functions.
............................................
CLAYS MOST OFTEN USED IN COSMETICS
Kaolinite(Kaolin) From soils, this is awell-formedclaywithsix-sided flakes,normallyapure
white (often called China clay), fine-grained clay. Kaoliniteis used in masks
and other cosmetics for deep cleansing, drawing, tightening, and toning. It
has an overall mineralizing ability. In other industries, kaolinite is used in
gasoline, porcelain, whiteware,ink, and organic plastics.
1 Illite/chlorite The compositionof the twois similar, coming from soils and predominantly
marine sediments. Illite is formed when potassium is added to kaolinite,
and chlorite is formed when magnesium is added. This is common in ma-
rine-based soils. Soils containing illite and chlorite are better for agricul-
ture due to their higherion exchange properties and capacity to hold plant
nutrients in the soil. These clays may also be used in cosmetics. Illite is
used for brick, tile, stoneware,and glazed products.
Smectites The composition forms broad undulating mosaic sheets and is found in
some prairie, ash, and organic soils, but predominantly in volcanic ash.
Bentonite is composed mostly of smectite clay and is very important as a
cosmetic substance. The name comes from the area where it was found
near Fort Benton, Montana. There are two types of bentonites. Sodium
bentonite absorbs water and swells. This type is used to seal dams, with
drilling muds, in ceramics, emulsions,soaps, pharmaceuticals, and paints.

Calcium bentonites, popularly called “Fuller’searth,”is a nonswelling clay
that breaks down into a very fine granular aggregate and is used as an
absorbent clay (greatin masks for oily skin).
Another typeof smectite mixtureis magnesium aluminum silicate, known
in cosmetic literature as “MAS.”This mixture is the most versatile in cos-
metics and will be listed on an ingredient label as MAS.MAS enhances
water, oil, and grease absorption, helps keep emulsions from settling, and
serves as a thickeningagent. Since it is not easily affectedby high tempera-
tures or microbial damage, it improves the shelf life of a product,
It should be mentioned here that almost all clays are found in areas of
hot springs and geysers due to the high mineralcontent of the soil. Hot spring
clays are often referred to as fango muds, a term that originatedin Europe.
The spa at Montecatini, Italy,is perhaps most famousfor fango muds. Fango
mud is volcanic ash and sulfur, thus quite soothing and healing.
There are otherhighly mineralizedmuds that have gained notoriety over
the years, such as moor mud from Austria, and glacial clay from a remote
lagoon a t the Pacific coast in Canada. Even though all clays have a high
mineral content, specific claysmay be more enriched and, therefore, have
a greater value for different functions in cosmetics.
MAJOR CLAY MINERALS AND THEBODY

CALCIUM
Calcium strengthens bones and teeth and appears to be useful to increase
the absorption and utilization of calcium in the body. It may also help con-
trol capillary permeability.
MAGNESIUM
Magnesium helps regulate and lower blood pressure. It is important in the
metabolism and utilization of calcium and may help headaches. This is a n
essential mineral to maintain health.
POTASSIUM
Potassium helps balance electrolytesand works to prevent musclecramps.
It also releases energy from proteins, carbohydrates, and fats.
Calcium, magnesium,and potassium also act to regulate moisture.
TRACE MINERALS
Selenium is an antioxidant and interacts with vitamin E, iodine balances
the thyroid, chloride assists in body fluid balance, iron enables red blood
cells to carry and use oxygen, and zinc is required fornormal
all cell growth.
Minerals may furtherassist in maintaining and strengthening the body’s
immune system, Minerals and trace minerals also serveas catalysts for the
utilization of vitamins in the human body and help keep skin moisture con-
tent balanced. (See also chapter 11 on Seaweed for more information.)
CHAPTER 10 Mud Treatments 123
ClayColors In thecosmeticfield, we tend to refer to clayby color as opposed to by name.

The colors we most often dealwith are green, red, yellow, and white.White is
the kaolinite, used most for talc,deodorants, and masks. Green,which also is
quite popular and appears to be the most active, is a smectite/chlorite or
illite combination andis most often foundin marine sediments. It is used for
drinking, masks, and poultices. Red or rose clays are also smectite combina-
tions and used mostly deep for cleansing, masks, packs, and smoothing rough
skin. Yellow clay characteristics are similar to rose clay.
Another clay-basedproduct, parafango, incorporates clay with paraffin
to form a warm occlusive mixturethat is most often used for heat transfer-
ence. It causes greater dilation of blood vessels and increases circulation
to the area. This is often used therapeutically forsore muscles and the like
as a replacement for hot packs.
............................................
SPA POINT
Calcium, magnesium,and potassium are very valua6le mineralsfor overall health
and body metabolism. They affect 6ones, 6lood pressure, and permea6ility, and
also act as moisture regulators. This makes them very important minerals for
skin and 6ody treatments.
............................................
TREATMENTS IN ESTHETICS
Mud has been used for centuries for therapeutic and beautification pur-
poses for skin softening, for metabolic stimulation, and for simple relax-
ation. In some casesmarine mudsare used with similarresults as seaweed.
The mineralization may be similar but the feel, texture, and aura are differ-
ent. In spas the world over, mud treatments will be sold over the seaweed
treatments purely due to the aura around mud.
It’s advisableto offerboth seaweed andmud treatments. The combina-
tion and harmony of both enhances the activity of either and adds longev-
ity to the facility’streatment capability. If you want to be classifiedas a true
day spa, mud body treatments are a must.
General Information a Do not mix or store clay in metal containers. It will draw out the minerals.
Working
When 0
Do not overmix clay. Overmixing most clays affects their
smooth struc-
ture and permeability.
with Clays
a
It is best to heat clay indirectly in a double boiler or in a container in-
side a heating unit with water. Microwave should not beused. Heat once
and use. Do not reheat.
Check withsupplier regarding drain
disposal requirements.Some muds
may be used in a footbath, some may not.
A Vichy shower is ideal for rinsingtreating simultaneously.
Refer to manufacturer for more specific directions.
SUPPLIES NEEDED
Massage table or wet room table
1-2 cotton sheets (some clays stain, so green or grey sheets may be
preferable)
3 bath sheets or large bath towels (also green/grey)
2 hand towels
1 bathrobe
1 electric bed warmer if allowable
1 regular cotton blanket
1 plastic sheet
2-4 body shammies,or 2 large bodysponges, or 2-4 hand towels (should
keep in hot towel cabinet for ready warm moist usage)’
1 pair dry body brushes or mittens
1 large masking brushor spatula
1 large plasticor rubber mixing bowl
1 large woodenspoon for mixing
1 pitcher of cold waterfor client to drink as desired
EQUIPMENT NEEDED
Hot towelcabinet
Hydrotherapy tub, showers
Disinfectant
Cleansing products (including exfoliants)
Toning lotion/astringent
Essential oils/massageproduct
Muds (clays)
Body lotions/creams
Finishing powder
specific supplies may be suggested by suppIiers.

CHAPTER IO MudTreatments 125
Ta6le Setup Over table drape electric

bed
warmer,
regular blanket, bath sheet, cotton
sheet, plastic sheet. Offer hand towel to client to cover breasts and have
another hand towel as a diaper if necessary. If salt or scrub exfoliation pre-
cedes mud treatment, put another plastic sheet over the first plasticsheet
to avoid necessity of showering after exfoliation is completed.
Client preparation Preparationvariesaccording to the selected treatment. If a full-body treat-

ment is to be done, it is always best to have the client shower beforehand.It
is also easier to perform the treatment if the client is nude and coverageis
provided by sheets and towels overareas not exposed for treatment. The
need for diaper and breast towel is determined by the client and techni-
cian. If the treatment being done is a local or spot treatment, that area
must be exposed and precleansed.
MUD TREATMENTS
wrap. Variances may occur in choice of treatment products and essential oils, amouat of time left OM skia, arzd renzoval
techniques. Therefore, the full-body treatment will be listed first.
FulCBody GOAL OF TREATMENT

Mud Treatment Thegoal of a full-bodymud treatment may vary somewhataccording tothe
client and other products used. As a general rule, mud treatments encour-
age increased blood circulation, absorb impurities from the skin, soften
skin, and improve surface moisturization. A moisturizing mud would be used
in this type of treatment. If exfoliation has been done, the effects of the
mud are further heightened.To condition the body, a series of weekly treat-
ments for 3-6 weeks is beneficial.
INDICATIONS FOR TREATMENT

All normal healthy individuals may receive treatments. Client must com-
plete health historychart prior to treatment.
ideal location for mud treatment is the Vichy shower room. Ifusing a wet room, o6viously ebctric bed warmers a ~ bdl a ~ h e ~ s
are not used. If the table isn't padded appropriately for a wet room, a foam mattress used in swinzmiMg way be used but
covered with sheets. If using Vichy shower, technician will most likely get wet doiag this treatrnevrt. Dress accordingly.
PROCEDURE
1. Client should be placed on properly draped table after showering. Cli-
ent should lie on back. Be sure client is immediately carefully covered.
FIGURE 10-2 Cover your hands with abrasive gloves and dry brush the area. This will
stimulate Circulation.
(If using bed warmer in dry room, be sure it has been on priorto arrival
of client.) If shower is not available, be sure to use a disinfectant or
cleanser to preclean the body. If working on wet table, be sure client is
properly coveredwith bath sheets or towels.
2. On a dry body, perform about 10 minutes of dry brushing on the front
and back side (avoid alldelicate and sensitive areas) to stimulate blood
Use dry brushes, mitts, or massage gloves and
circulation (Figure 10-2).
move smoothly but fairly rapidly. This is the opening to the treatment
so it should not be a massage.
3. Perform any special cleansing or exfoliation if applicable to the treat-
ment (Figure 10-3) and rinse off well. If an exfoliant is used, skip dry
brushing step. Client may shower off the exfoliant, or technician may
wash it off. If washing off, remove plastic sheet. Below plastic sheet
being removed another plastic sheet should be set.
FIGURE 10-3 An exfoliating scrub is applied to the body. If the body is dry brushed first, skip
this step.
FIGURE 10-4 Massage any aromatherapy oil into the body.
4. Apply essential oils, treatment ampoules, or serums according to the

goal of the treatment and massage into applicable area (Figure 10-4).
This step should takeno more thanabout 10 minutes. Cover client and
allow product to absorb while preparing for the mud mask.
5. The application temperature of the mud may vary according to the
manufacturer but is most often between 110 and 120 degrees F maxi-
mum. Be sure the temperature feels comfortable to the client. Mud
should have been warmedin a double boiler, nota microwave. Useone
hand only to apply the mud in a smooth even layer on one leg and one
side of body (have clientlie on side).
Cover with plastic with free hand as you work up the body and then
proceed to apply mudto the other side of the body wrappingthe plastic
will be to the front side
as you go (Figures10-5, 10-6). The final application
FIGURE 10-5 Apply mud to the body.

FIGURE 10-6 Immediately wrap the body witk plastic as you finisk applying mud to tke area.
of the body. Accordingto your treatment goal and client'scomfort, you

may apply mud on the stomach, chest, bust (except nipples), andneck
area (Figure 10-7). If the client is shy and uncomfortable, skip the front
except the d6collete area. After carefully wrapping
the entirebody in plas-
tic, foldthe sheet around andlay a bath sheet over the entire front (Figure
10-8).The clientwill rest about 15-25 minutes in the wrap.
FIGURE 10-8 Once the mud has been

applied to appropriate areas and the
body covered with plastic, wrap the
client in a sheet. The client shouldrest
FIGURE 10-7 Apply mud to the ckest. for about 15-25 minutes.
6. If you have a Vichy shower,open the sheets and let the Vichy shower rain
comfortable warm water onthe client’s frontside for 10 minutes, then10
minutes on the back.You will need to get the client up off the bed for a
quick spray shower to remove the remaining residue of the mask. I f a
Vichy or regular shower is not available,you will need to wash the client
off with hot towels orshammies.Be sure the mask doesn’t dry hard as it
is more difficult and time consumingto remove. Also, allow the clientto
rest in the wrap 15 minutes to allow enough time for hand removal.
7. Put a fresh dry bathsheet on the bed and have the client lie back down
facing up. Cover client with another bath sheet. Apply finishing body
lotion or cream to the entire body. Apply finishing powder and help the
client up and out to the rest area. While the client is resting, have her
drink water or juice and discuss future treatment plans and home care
program.
CONTRAINDICATIONS FOR TREATMENT

Do not use on clientswho
0
have high blood pressure.
0
are pregnant.
e have active systemicdisease or illness.
0 have known allergies to components of clay, or iodine in cases of sea
mud.
a indicate any questionable situation.
Summary of Treatment
1. Preparation of client.
2. Dry brush.
3. Special cleanse or exfoliation.If exfoliating, skip drybrush.
4. Apply special treatment oils, ampoules, serums.
5. Apply warmed mud, wrap, and let client rest.
6. Vichy shower and/or removal.
7. Fresh bed, application of cream/lotion, finishing powder.
Skiu Cleausiug This treatment must use a mud designed to cleanse and draw out impuri-
ties. A soft moisturizing clay should not be used in this case. The treatment
Back Treatmeut can be a short 30-45 minutes or 1 hour if full massage is being done. This is
an ideal treatment for the client whose back breaksout.
GOAL OF TREATMENT
The treatment is normally very relaxing and stress relieving for the client,
which indirectly may help the cause of the breakouts. However, the main
FIGURE 10-9 Precleanse the back. FIGURE 10-10 Use the galvanic current for disincrustation cleansing on the back.
goal of this treatment is to utilize the drawing out and purifying effects of
the mud to clear the breakout area. If the mud is highly active, multiple
treatments in a week may be necessary to draw impacted materials out.
The treatment may be done twice a week until the area has cleared and
periodically thereafter to maintain.
PROCEDURE
1 Prepare the client by having her/him wear a smock or remove upper
body clothes, or completely undress as desired. Client should lie face
down on properly draped bed. If bed has breathing hole, be sure to line
hole with towel or disposable cloth.
2. Turn on steamer or warm back with hot towels. Precleanse with oily
skin cleanser, deep pore cleanser, or washable cleanser (Figure 10-9).
While steam is on, brush cleanse as desired.
3. Exfoliate as desired and/or apply disincrustant solution (Figure10-10).
Use negative galvaniccurrent for disincrustationcleansing. (Besure cli-
ent can have galvanic done.) Rinse and soften skin with steam or hot
towels or shammies.
4. Perform extractions of pustules and comedones (Figure 10-11).
5. Disinfect area with appropriate solution and high-frequency (direct)cur-
rent (Figure 10-12).
6. Apply special treatment ampoule or serum if applicable, then massage
with appropriate nutritional or massage cream (Figure 10-13).Massage
time will vary according to the scheduling of the treatment. If doing a
full-hour treatment, the massage can be 15-20 minutes long.If half-hour,
132 SalonOvation'sDay Spa Techniques
GOAL OF TREATMENT
This treatment will soften and condition the cuticles and skin as well as
nourish and strengthen the nail bed. Follow-up home care with cuticle and
nail strengthening creamas well as hand/body lotions and creams.
PROCEDURE
1. Cleanse and disinfect hands and feet.
2. While one hand/foot is soaking, exfoliate the other. (If using foot bath
be sure mud won't clog unit. Also other additives may be added to
water as desired.) (Figure 10-16)
3. Massage one hand/foot with appropriate oil/serum/cream (Figure 10-
17).Massage the other hand/foot. If product is treatment oriented, you
may leave on residueand apply the mud over it.
4. Apply a thick coat of warmed mud and wrap hands/feet in plastic. (If
you want the mud to stay warm and soft, put hands and feet in plastic
liners and then put in electric mittens and booties. If doing both at the
same time, you will need to allow the hands and feet to sit about 10
minutes.) While hands and feet are wrapped, the finger and toe nails
may be prepared for polish application.Let mask sit for 10 minutes be-
fore rinsing.Be sure all traces of oil and mud have been removed.
5. Massage in hand/body lotion/cream while avoiding nails.Be sure nails
are clean and dry.
FlCURE 10-16 Ammatherapy essences can be FIGURE 10-17 Massage the foot, working the
added to the 6ath water during pedicures. top and the ball of the foot.
CHAPTER 10 MwdTreatments 133
6. Apply polish as usual.

Edema,infection,inflammation.
Nail area if cleansing completelycan’t be done or mud stains.
Scalp treatment may also be donewith seaweed masksbut depending on

Scalp Treatment the scalp condition, a variety of muds may have more effects. In cases of
excessively oily scalp, a drawing cleansing mud is ideal; where moisture
and conditioning is desired, a nutritional mud is preferable. As in all scalp
treatments, application and care of hair is important but most activity should
concentrate on the scalp level. Duration of treatment is 30 minutes.
GOAL OF TREATMENT
Scalp treatments go in and out of style, but the need for extra scalp condi-
tioning never leaves. The goal of this treatment is to stimulate the scalp
circulation, moisturize,
and soften. Dandruff maybe alleviated by this treat-
ment if done weekly.
PROCEDURE
1. Client’s clothes should be protected by draping. If a hair steamer is
available, turn on steam. If not, warm, relax, and soften scalp with hot
towels/shammies. Use two or three and rub scalp slightly while towel-
ling (Figure 10-18).
2. Apply massage oil/cream and perform about a IO-minute scalp mas-
sage (Figure 10-19).The length of time depends on the overall length of
treatment. Leave oil or nutritional treatment on scalp.
FIGURE 10-18 Gently massage the scalp.

FIGURE 10-19 W i t h gloved hands, apply the massage cream.
3. Apply warmed mud thickly to the scalp first and then to entire head
surface. Wrap hair up into foil. Let sit 10-15 minutes. If you desire to
keep mud warm,use heat lamp instead of foil. From timeto time, check
to be sure mixture is still wet and supple.
once or twice if
4. To remove, rinse hair from scalpout to ends, shampoo
necessary, and apply conditioner.Towel dry and proceed with styling.
Do not do scalp treatments on same day as other chemical work(perms
and colors).If possible, do chemical work priorto the mud scalp treat-
ment unlessas recommended by manufacturer.
CONTRAINDICATIONSFOR TREATMENT
Any type of lesions, open wounds, inflammation, or systemicdisease.
............................................
SPA POINT
Mud works effectively in full-bodyas well as spot treatments like hand and foot
treatment, scalp treatment, etc. Mud will help mineralize the area, soften and
recondition the skin, and in some cases draw out unwanted impurities, depend-
ing on the types of clay used.
............................................
Mud Baths Mud bathsare certainly the psychologicalhighlight of mud usage in health
and beauty treatments. There are spasaround the world that utilize natural
hot thermal mud springs. The client is placed in the mud and covered for
anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour depending on the thermal activityof
CHAPTER IO Mud Treatments 135
the mud and health of the client. Some natural baths are constructed by
laying the client on a bed of dirt that has been cut out about 3-5 inches
deep and pouringwarm mud overthe body. The style is a little different but
the goal is the same.
Most mud baths in America are traditional bathtubs or hydrotherapy
tubs where 6-16 ounces ofwetmud are added to the bath water for a
hydrotherapy mud treatment. If the mudis sea mud, this may also be
classified as thalassotherapy. However, utilizing the word mud is a more
effective marketingconcept, When giving a mud bath in this form, be sure
that the type of mud you’re using doesn’t clog the tub. There are muds
that will work well and muds that are too thick. Since mud holds its own
heat well, use caution in putting too much mud in the tub or leaving the
client in the tub too long. Follow manufacturer’s instructions. Again, cli-
ents with high blood pressure or who are pregnant are contraindicated
for thistreatment. The tub treatment should last no more than20-30 min-
utes. If mud baths are new to the client, it’sbetter to leave the client in the
water only 15 minutes.
Other Spot Treatnzeuts Although some muds may be designed for bust, cellulite, and other spot
treatments, as a general rule seaweed is more suited for these treatments
because of its additives. If, however, your client is allergic to seaweed, a
soil-based mud may be a good alternative. Be sure to understand what the
specific mud is designed to do and then determine which treatments can
be done with it. Seealso chapter 11.
USAGE OF MUD IN FACIALS

Almost all masks for oily skin incorporate either kaolin or bentonite and
have for years. There are also softening masks for moisture. Recent scien-
tific developments show greater promise for clays beyond their ability to
draw impuritiesout of the skin or moisturize.The options are great and the
formulations are vast. Some clays are even used now in massage and treat-
ment creams, as well as in sunscreening formulations.Choose according to
the purpose and skin type you’re working on. Some people think a clay-
based mask is old-fashioned. Quite the contrary.The opportunities for varia-
tion continueto grow and develop.
Synopsis Mud has extraordinary cleansing and moisturizing/softening properties

depending on the kind used. In this respect, mud offers a little moreversa-
tility of usage. From a marketing standpoint, mud is, of course, the most
popular for spa conceptualization. The blend of mud and seaweed when
appropriate makes for a multipurpose treatment system. Many exciting new
muds are on the market, and the field will continue to grow. Mud was here
thousands of years ago and will be here for many more. The time to use
mud in full facial and body services is now.
1 . With what is mud synonymous?

Review
2. Can clay be used on clients with high blood pressure?
3. For what iskaolin used?
4. Name two uses of clay in esthetics.
5. Should clay be mixed in a metal bowl?
6. Which type of shower is good for mud treatments?
7. Name one contraindication of mud treatment.
CHAPTER 11
Seaweed Treatments
OVERVIEW
Seaweed, an incredibly valuable source for effective face and body treat-
ments, is a wondrous materialyou should know more about, Seaweed is a
part of the greater family of life-giving substances known as algae. Alga
grows in many places and as a result is a valuable source of material for
cosmetic purposes. It grows in the sea, in lakes and ponds, in streams and
rivers, in the soil, under ice and snow, and in the digestive tracts of human
beings. We will concentrate mostly on sources from the sea, but keep in
mind its existence in nearly everything natural, which makes it a valuable
tool for the esthetician,massage therapist, nail technician,and hairdresser.
THE SEA
Of the 197,000,000square miles of surface area on the earth, the oceans
represent 139,000,000square miles.Rivers and streams representonly about
1,000,000square miles. In simpler terms, more than 70 percent of the earth
is water. Water is not only the source of life for thousands of animal forms,
it is also necessary for human life. Besides being essentialfrom a drinking
standpoint, almost 90 percent of the oxygen produced emanates from the
plant kingdom, a large representation of that being from the algae that grow
in the sea. Each gallon of seawater has approximately 1.6 cubic inches of
oxygen, as opposed to 1.3 cubic inches in fresh water.
Seawater contains thirty-two to sixty different minerals and elements,
including oxygen, chlorine, bromine, sulfur, sodium, magnesium, calcium,
potassium, and silicon. Sodium representsabout 31 percent of the seawa-
ter content. In some areas of the world, such as in the Dead Sea, the so-
dium content is much higher,which accounts for the tremendous buoyancy
in that water. Seawater is also alkaline in nature. The sea is so rich in vita-
mins, minerals, salts, and proteins that it is purported to be ableto support
and feed all formsof plant, animal, and human life.
It has been said that human’s blood plasma is so similar to ocean water
that we evolved originally from the sea. Rene Quinton, a French biologist,
wrote in his book, La Mer, Milieu Orgauique, that the human body originated in
the sea and perpetuates the characteristics of its marine environment. He
believed that the compositionof blood plasma and concentration of mineral
salts, proteins, and trace elementswere so close that he transfuseda dog’s
blood plasma with seawater and the dog survived; this convinced his col-
leagues. Truth or fiction aside, it is important to know that humans can ben-
efit greatlyfrom the sea. Seawater has been used for a long time as a natural
remedy for sore throats, digestive problems, arthritis, and joint ailments.
I37
............................................
SPA POINT
More than 70 percent of the earthis water, mostly seawater.A very large partof
the oxygen humans breathe emanates fromthe algae in the seas. Seawater has
between tkirty-two and sixty minerals and elements that are beneficial to hu-
mans. It has also been said that human blood plasma is similar to seawater,
very
hence the tremendous value in spa treatments.
............................................
ALGAE
Algae are plants that normally growand thrive in seawater or fresh water, at
the edge of water, and on some trees and rocks. In the ocean they often
appear as undulating forests of slippery strands of grasslike materials (Fig-
ure 11-1). Algae are not grasses but appear in much wider ranges than al-
most any other plant group found on earth. There are more than 25,000
different known species, andtheir size can range from as small as a micron
where more than 200,000 can lie on your thumbnail to aslarge as 200 feet
long. Mostof the common kelpused in cosmetics and other industries come
from a large brown alga that commonly growsto over 100 feet. Most of the
algae are beneficial to humankind, but some produce oily substances that
are noxious, which givethe water that marshy kindof smell, or at worst can
be toxic and harm our fresh water and animal sources. Understanding al-
gae completely is a lifelongprocess for many scientists.
It is interesting to note how algae function. Sunlight supplies energy that
is absorbed by the chlorophyll in the algae. Carbon dioxide uniteswith the
water forming a solid (sugars)and oxygen. The split off of hydrogen from the
water molecule causes the sugars to form. In addition to the oxygen, the
sugars convert to proteins from mineralsalts containing nitrogen,sulfur,and
sometimes phosphorus. Without these elements, the plant dies. Algae will
FIGURE 11-1 Algae grow and thrive at the edge of seawater and fresh water.
CHAPTER 1 1 Seaweed Treatments 139
die in an aquarium where distilled water has been used. The conversionpro-
cess from the sunlight is called photosynthesis.Thus the prime requisites for
the growth of algae besideswater are suitable light and temperature, carbon
dioxide, oxygen, and mineral salts. The result is food for both plants and
animals. Living creatures usethe food, grow, multiply, and die;thus the food
chain is perpetuated. The interesting thing about the growth of algae that
makes them such a great resource is the fact that some(depending onthe
species) can grow up to 50 feet a day under the right livingconditions. The
growth of algae is closely connectedto the amount of light received. That’s
why most algae grow in less than 200 feet of water. Due to the variety of
species, some grow better in more light andsome better in less light.
Chlorophyll is critical to the process of photosynthesis and algae are
rich in chlorophyll.Algae are usually classified accordingto color. The name
of the Red Sea comes from the abundance of red algae.
............................................
SPA POINT
There are more than 25,000 types of algae, only afew of which are used in
cosmetics. These are normally classijiedin groups accordingto color.
............................................
Pigments in Afgae There are four basic pigments that comprise algae.Certain colors of algae
are now being used as natural pigments forfoods and cosmetics. As a pig-
ment, algae use will see much future growth.
Chlorophylls (A,B,C,D,E): Green

Carotenes: Orange
Xanthophylls: Yellow
Phycobilins: Phycocyanin (blue)
Phycoerytherin (red)
The location, temperature of the water, and sunlight exposure have a

large effect onwhich algae grow where. Along withcolor, algaehave been
further categorized intocertain zones.
FOUR MAIN DIVISIONS OF ALGAE

1. Chlorophyta: Green
2. Cyanophyta:
Blue-green
3. Phaeophyta: Brown
4. Rhodophyta: Red
NOTE: Other members o\ the algae group are categorizedby silica-diatoms, stoneworts, etc. Diatomaceous earth
comes from diatoms, or fossil algae.
The economic value and importance of algae cannotbe underestimated.

The mere factthat someseaweed growsat exceedingly rapidrates makes it
a wonderful renewablesource for human use. Of course, the Chinese, Japa-
nese, and Hawaiians have used variousseaweeds for hundreds of years for
food. In fact, the Japaneseconsume more thanone hundred different vari-
eties and specifically growthe algae for that purpose. Between WorldWar I
and WorldWar I1 Japan was the only source of raw material supplies of
seaweed for agar (solidifying factor used in laboratory culture) worldwide.
It was the modernJapanesewho first discovereduses for algae in mucilage
for glue. Now the United States, Russia, Australia, and other countries are
manufacturing sources for seaweeds.
The browns and reds are most often used in the cosmetic and food
industries. Blue-greens are perhaps the oldest in history, and the greens pro-
vide the richest color and chlorophyll concentration.ofSome the better-known
species and economic uses follow. In cosmetics and body treatments, differ-
ent varieties may be combined to enhance the mineral content, feel, or es-
thetic appearance. All algae, however, have value in cosmetics from a
mineralization standpoint.
Seaweeds are rich in vitamins A and E and in inorganic salts such as
iodine, which makes them valuablein glandular treatment and in laxatives.
Specific uses and treatments will be discussed later in the chapter.
CHLOROPHYTA-GREEN
This division has a beneficial effect on skin firmness, improves circula-
tion, and aids in moisturization and cell renewal. It is considered to be
the most universally distributed in fresh and seawater. Lichen moss con-
tains green algae.
Ulva: sea lettuce, often eaten as a vegetable
Acetabularia: umbrella-like
Halimeda: calcified
CYANOPHYTA-BLUE-GREEN
This division is high in vitamins A, B, C, D, E to stimulate metabolism. It is
highly gelatinous, has a unique abilityfor fatty acid synthesis,and, due to a
high quantity of chlorophyll A, it's highly responsible for molecular oxygen.
Blue-green algae grow wellin a hot springs mineral environment. They also
grow in rice fields and may be a catalyst for increased rice growth. Lichen
moss contains blue-green algae and they are found in the human digestive
tract (duodenum,jejunum).
Calothrix
Rivularia
Nostoc: boiled and eaten with vegetables
CHAPTER 1 1 Seaweed Treatments 14 1
Spirulina: highly valuedfor mineral content, used in food supplements,

some cosmetics
PHAETOPHYTA-BROWN
This division is strong in metabolic stimulation, increases heat processes,
helps in cellular exchangesand balances, and accelerates the elimination of
toxins. It is most commonly used in foods, cosmetics, and industry and has
high potassium and iodine content. Algin and alginate, produced primarily
by laminaria, macrocystis, fucus, and ascophyllum nodosum, are used most
often in foods, cosmetics, dental products, and fertilizers.Alkali salts can be
spun into silk-like thread, and heavy salts form a type of plastic. This also
forms natural gumsso ideal in paints, car polishes,and pharmaceuticals.
Laminaria: often called sea kelp, used most often in foods (Japanese
Kombu, Kobu,vast amounts grown in Japan),used also in medicine as
possible coagulant and to help heal wounds
Macrocystis: largest sea kelp, may be the fastest growing plant known
Nereocystis: called sea otter's cabbage
Pelagophycus
Ascophylum Nodosum
Fucus: due to high iodine content, known to stimulate the thyroid
Sargassum: from Sargasso Sea, called gulfweed, rockweed, sea holly,
used as thickener in soups and soy sauce
Chlorella: high in vitamin BI2, biotin, riboflavin, known to stimulate
growth in chicken
a portion of the western rim. The sea in this area veaches from 5,000 to 23,000feet. Due to the weak air currents, low
precipitation, and warm saline water, sargassum floats on the surface. It's kept at the surface by the small air bladders
in the seaweed itself. This is a rich forest of brown seaweed. It was first introduced and discussed by Columbus in 1492.
RHODOPHYTA-RED
This division mixes well with other species and serves as a stabilizer, filter,
and lubricant. It is rich in iodine and very gelatinous. More than seventy-eight
species produce agar,which is commonly used in jelly, as a soup thickener,
as a clarifyingagent in beer and other liquors,as a laxative and lubricant, and
as the culturing medium in laboratory studies of microorganisms. Agar is
used for preservation in canning fish,for sizing fabrics,for making film, for
finishing leather, for adhesives, and in ice cream manufacture to prevent crys-
tallization. Laver or Nori (Japaneseterm) is vitamin and mineral richfor food.
Chondrus: called Irish moss, produces carrageenin (an important sta-
bilizer for cosmetic emulsions),agar-agar.
Corallina: a calcareous alga used in biological bone implants, may also

be a good infrared filter
Rhodymenia: called dulse, used for food as a vegetable
Ceramium, Lithothamnium, Corallina, and Lithophyllum become encrusted
with lime and help build up coralreefs. They are also used with diatoms in
diatomaceous earth.
............................................
SPA POINT
The four basic algae color divisions do the following in spa treatments:
Green-skin firmness, increased circulation, moisturization
Brown-increases metabolism and heat, accelerates elimination of toxins
Blue-green-high in vitamins to stimulate metabo1ism
Red-as emulsifiers, balancers, and lubricants
............................................
Uses i~ Esthetics In the field of esthetics and beauty, different mixtures and combinations
of algae are used for a number of purposes, depending on the manufac-
turer, the product function, and the treatment concept. Some of these
purposes include:
High mineral content helps stimulatethe body’s metabolism and circu-
lation. This increase in circulation facilitatesthe absorption of nutrients
into the system and the elimination of toxins and wastes.
The various mineralproperties can soften and cleanse the skin, leaving
the skin smooth, softened,and supple.
The vitamins A and E as well as some of the mineral catalysts (such as
selenium)serve as antiaging antioxidants.This helps skin cells function
better.
As small an amount as 3 percent has tremendous skin softening
capabilities.
Helps the body to better regulate itself.
In hair products, algae are used as a softening and moisturizing agent
due to the cationic charge. Increases hair bounce and body. with regu-
lar use, may help prevent hairloss.
Cellulite consists of trapped toxins in the subcutaneous tissue. Algae
help disrupt the fat cellsby breaking the chemicalbonds and allowing
trapped waste materialsto be released intothe lymph system for sub-
sequent removal. The trace mineralsact as catalysts in normal enzyme
reactions in the bodyto ensure normal metabolicreleases.Among other
CHAPTER I 1 Seaweed Treatments 143
agents, silicon in alga works directly on the proper utilization of nutri-

ents and the subsequent elimination of toxins.
Zinc, an important mineral in algae, is an essential biocatalyst in all
endocrine systems. Thesesystems have a direct effect on skin,so indi-
It is often used in acne treatments and
rectly zincwill help stabilize skin.
as a sun protectant. Zinc is thought to help control excess sebaceous
secretion.
Magnesium and calcium are valuable substances as activators of other
body systems, especially enzymesystems. Magnesium helps the proper
metabolism of calcium,phosphorus, and sodiumand is easilyabsorbed
by the body. Calciumis integrally involvedin the bones and intercellular
protein cement. It has also been known to play a role in the permeabil-
ity of the capillaries' blood coagulation and muscleand nerve stimulus.
Magnesium is an important component of chlorophyll.
Trace minerals may be bonded to proteins and be absorbed easily. The
value of this in skin lies in the moisturizing ability of the combination
above what is capable of the proteins alone.
Because the trace minerals penetrate the bodyreadily under good
thermal conditions, they help rid the body of excess water and lipids
and improve circulation. By doing so, a natural detoxificationprocess
takes place.
............................................
SPA POINT
As has been discussed in great detail, seaweed holds the key to a vast number of
uses in today's world. As a cosmetic substance, we're only beginning to appreci-
ate all that it potentially can do. With more scientific study, greater treatment
development, we may soon discover that the riches of the ocean are our most
potent and viable naturally renewing resource for modern day spa treatments
and cosmetics. The varieties of seaweed do, of course, offer different practical
applications. The reds and browns appear to be the most used at this point in
time, but undoubtedly research will carry us to greater depths of appreciation
and knowledge.
............................................
TREATMENTS IN ESTHETICS
General comments and treatments are presented for your information.
Please be sure to obtain specific details and treatment procedures from
your product manufacturersas systems and concepts, as well as types and
amounts of seaweed, vary somewhat accordingto the manufacturer. Pric-
ing for treatments should be made consistent with other services, market
competition,and product cost.
Thalassotherapy Thalassotherapy refers primarily to the use of seawater and seaweeds in

baths and body treatments.
Body Treatment
SUPPLIES NEEDED
Massage table or wet room table
1-2 cotton sheets (green or grey color due to staining of some sea-
weed)
3 bath sheets (or large bath towels,also green or grey)
2 hand towels
1 bathrobe
1 electric bed warmer if allowable
1 regular cotton blanket
1 plastic or foil sheet (foil preferred for heating treatment)
2-4 body shammies, or 2 large body sponges, or 4 hot towels (ideally
kept in hot towel cabinet for ready warm moist usage)
1 pair dry brushes or mittens
1 large masking brush or spatula
1 large plastic or rubber bowl (stainless steel bowl for some usage is
fine, but never have glass in treatment area in case of breakage)
1 large woodenspoon or whisk for mixing
1 set measuring cups and spoons
1 pitcher of cold water for client to drink (with cup)
EQUIPMENT NEEDED
Hot towel cabinet
Facial steamer
Hydrotherapy tub, showers
PRODUCTS NEEDED
Disinfectant
Cleansing products
Toning lotion/astringent
Essential oils/massage product
Alga powder mixture
Body cream/lotion (moisturizer,anticellulite,etc.)
Finishing powder
CHAPTER 1 1 SeaweedTreatments 145
NOTE: Most seaweeds do stain to some degree, so GMooSe llnens and CoweLs accorurngry. Yarn green Is laeal wnen
using green seaweeds as stains won’t show. In some cases pure white stains the least. Check with your product
manufocturer for recommendations.
Tu6le Setup Over table drapeelectric bed warmer, regular blanket, bath sheet, cotton
sheet, plastic orfoil sheet. Offer hand towelto client to cover breasts and
have another hand towel as diaper if necessary. If salt or scrub exfoliation
precedes seaweed treatment,put another plastic sheet over the first sheet.
Keep in mind, foil is used when more thermal effectis desired. Use plastic
only withheat-sensitiveclient.Whether the full body or partial body is done,
the layering effectis about the same;just reduce sizeof foil and plasticas
necessary.
Client Preparation Preparation depends on the selected treatment. If a full-body treatment is

to beperformed, it is always preferable to have the client shower.It is also
easier toperform body treatments if the client is completely nude and all
coverage is provided by sheets and towels over areas not exposedfor treat-
ment. The need for a diaper and breast towel is determined individually by
the technician and client. If the treatment being done is a local or spot
treatment, thatarea must be exposed and precleansed.
SEAWEED TREATMENTS
Full-Body
Seaweed GOAL OF TREATMENT
The goalof this treatment can vary greatly accordingto the client’s needs.
Treatment If a specific needhasn’tbeen determined, a general full-body seaweedtreat-
ment in a mask or wrap offers overall circulatory stimulation,encourages
elimination of toxins, softens and smoothes skin, and gives an overall sense
of well-being. The exfoliation and additivesfurtherenhance the skin smooth-
ening and softeningas well as facilitate the body’s own systems. Obviously
frequency of treatment further enhances theeffects, and a series of four to
six weekly treatments is ideal from a conditioning standpoint.
INDICATIONS FOR TREATMENT

All normal healthy individuals may receive treatments. Client must com-
plete health historychart prior to treatment.
I 1
wrap. Variances normally occur in choice of treatment products and essentialoils, amount of time left on the sf&, and
removd techniques. Therefore, the full-body treatmefit will be listed first.
PROCEDURE
1. Client should be placed on draped table after showering. Client should
and warm.
lie on back. Be sure client is immediately carefully covered
FIGURE 11-2 Using a6rasive mitts, FIGURE 11-3 Have the client roll onto the side FIGURE 11-4 Performexfoliationontheback.
stimulate circulation with dry 6rushing. and use abrasive mitts on the back.
(Bed warmershould have been on prior to arrival of client.)If shower

is not available,be sure to use disinfectant
a or cleanser to preclean
the body.
2. On a dry body, performabout 10 minutes of dry brushing on front and
back side to stimulate blood circulation. Use dry brushes, mitts, or
massage gloves and move smoothly butfairly rapidly (Figures 11-2, 11-
3). This is the opening to the treatment so it should not be a massage.
3 . Perform any special cleansing or exfoliation if applicable to the treat-
ment (Figure 11-4) and rinse off well. If an exfoliant is used, skip dry
brushing step.
4. Apply essential oils ortreatment ampoules according to the goal of the
treatment and massage into applicable area (Figure 11-5). This step
should take no more than 10 minutes.
5. Prepare the seaweed mask according to themanufacturer’s recommen-
dations. Normally 6 to 8 ounces of dry powdered seaweedis sufficient
for the body. Mix with warm water. If essential oils are to be added to
the paste, doso at this time andmix well (Figure 11-6).Apply mask with
one hand only (clean handis used to wrap the client in the foil or plas-
tic) from the top of the feet, up the legs (Figure 11-7).Wrap the legs in
the plastic orfoil, turn client overto side and apply upthe buttocks and
r
back onone sideand upthe samearm and fold sheet over. Go to other
FIGURE 11-5 Apply essential oils and FIGURE 11-6 Add aromatherapy oils to the FIGURE 11-7 With gloved hands, apply
massage into the area. pasty mixture. mixture to the 6ody.
CHAPTER I 1 Seaweed Treatments I47
FIGURE 11-8 Apply the mixture to the stomach.
side of bed, roll client on side and applymask to backside and arm then
wrap in plastic or foil. At this point client should be
lying on back.
Be sure now that mixture is applied to stomach (Figure 11-8),chest,
breasts (only if by permission),and neck and be sureplastic or foil has
completely covered the body (Figure 11-9). Wrapthe cotton sheet and
blanket overthe client in a snug manner.If the bed warmer is on, turn it
offafter 3-5 minutes to keep the client from overheating.This applica-
tion methodis called the “oneside,then-the-otherside method.”Some
prefer to have the client situp to apply the mask to the back and then
FIGURE 11-9 Cover with plastic have the client lie back down and continue with the other procedure.
or foil. Either method is fine as long as the client is comfortable and well cov-
ered as the application progresses.The application should normally be
thinner than a facial mask but thick enough not to see too much skin
through the mask. Massaging it onin circular movements not only feels
good but helps the nutrients in the mask and oils applied under the
mask or put intothe mask absorb better.The clientrests for 20-30 min-
utes. While the client rests, the technician should update the chart, de-
termine the home care products and routines, and prepare for the mask
removal. If the client becomes too warm during the treatment,the blan-
ket and sheet may be unwrapped and pulled away easily leaving the
client wrapped onlyin the plastic or foil. It’s advisable to lightly cover
the client with a towel.
6. If shower facilities are available, help the client get up with the foil or
plastic still loosely wrapped (Figure 11-10). Theclient may discard the
plastic or foil in the receptacle in the shower.
If a shower is not available,use warm moist hot towels, shammies,
or sponges and rinsethe body off area by area starting at the legs and
working upthe body. As each area is cleaned, be sure to pull the plastic
FIGURE 11-10 Help client to the
or foil out of the way. If the mask is still moist and is thick enough,
shower with the foil still loosely sometimes a spatula or the palm of the hand is useful for removingthe
wrapped. majority of the product and thenyou can just towel offthe residue.
7. While the client is in the shower, place a fresh new bath sheet on the
bed. When the client returns, apply moisturizing body lotion or cream
and then finishing powder to complete the treatment. If removing by
hand, finish entire removal and then apply moisturizing body lotion or
cream and finish with the powder.
8. Help the client to sit up and rest for a moment before getting off the
bed. Have the client rest in a chair for a few moments while you are
explaining the effects of the treatment, future program,and the home
care routine. This is the ideal time to consummate the sale.

0
Pregnancy
0
Any active disease or illness
0
Vascular problems suchas high/low blood pressure
0
Known allergies to iodine or seaweed
0
Any questionable situation
Summary of Steps
1. Precleanse or shower.
2. Dry brush.
3. Special cleanse or exfoliation.If exfoliating, skip drybrush.
4. Massage in oils or ampoules.
5. Apply mask, let sit (put essential oils in mask if applicable).
6. Shower orwash off mixture.
7. Finish with body lotion/cream and powder.
BackTreatment This treatment follows the basic full-body format with the addition of the
disinfection with high frequency in step 5. Steps 4 and 5 will be skipped if
extraction and disinfection aren't necessary.
This can be a short 30-45 minute treatment or a 1-hour treatment if
massage is to be included. This is an ideal treatment for the oily, acne-
prone skin, a male, or during the party season when women wear low or
backless dresses.
GOAL OF TREATMENT
Generally the goalof most back treatments is to exfoliate skin that is diffi-
cult to reach on one's own. The back needs extra moisturization and soft-
ening as well. The back treatment provides a skin renewal that glows and
feels great. If the clientis acne prone, consistent back treatments on a weekly
basis until the area is cleared is ideal.
CHAPTER 1 1 Seaweed Treatments 149
PROCEDURE
1. Client can weara smock, remove only upper bodyclothes, or be com-
pletely nudeas desired. Client should lie on
stomach on properly draped
bed. If bed has cutout for breathing,surebeto line holewith disposables
or washable towel.
2. Turn on steamer if available and beginto precleanse the back area with
appropriate cleansing lotion or washable cleanser.While steam is on,
you may choose to use brush machine to further cleanse area. (Op-
tions: dry brush, then cleanse; exfoliation on dryskin.)
3. Apply exfoliant or comedone softening solution (disincrustantsolution
and negative galvanic current for cleansing electrically; be sure client
can have galvanic).Soften skin with hot towels and/or steam.
4. Perform extractionsof pustules and comedones.
5. Disinfect area with appropriate solution and high-frequency (direct)
current application.
6. Apply special treatment ampoule or serum if applicable thenmassage
with appropriate massage product. Massage time varies accordingto
the scheduling of the treatment. If doing a full-hour treatment,the mas-
sage can be 15-20 minutes long. If half-hour treatment, the massage
will last about 5- 10 minutes at most.
7. Mix about 1/2 cup seaweed mask mixture with warm water and add
essential oils if desired. Application should bea little thicker than nor-
mal in order to allow the seaweed mask to absorb oils. Apply to the
entire back and cover with plastic or foil, then cover with sheet, towel,
and blanket to ensurewarmth. Mask should remain for15-20 minutes.
8. Use hot towels or shammies and sponges toremove mixture and rinse
well.
9. Apply finishing lotion/cream and finishing powder.
CONTRAINDICATIONS FOR TREATMENT:

Open wounds
Sebaceous cysts or pustules
Inflammation
Cellulite Treatment It mustbekept in mind that one cellulitetreatment will showlittle if anyef-
fect. Cellulite is difficult, especiallyif it has been present for a long time and
has evolved into "hard"cellulite. Hard cellulitehas the characteristic orange-
peel appearance, whereas soft cellulite showsless pronounced dimpling when

the skin is pinched. It should be kept in mind that although seaweedis one of
the best substances available to alleviate celluliticconditions, the client must
be consistentwith professional treatment and home treatment and eating a
high fiber diet, drinking tremendous amountsof water, massaging thearea,
and performing active exercise. Cellulite is not necessarily curable, butit is
controllable. Cellulite is normally prevalent on women's thighs hips and and
to a minor extent on the stomach and arm areas. Most mendo not get cellulite.
The treatment itself shouldbe 30-40 minutes.
GOAL OF TREATMENT
This treatment is designed specifically to stimulate the blood circulation
and metabolismin order to facilitate the body's expulsion of toxins. In simple
terms, the stimulation charges upthe metabolism and the fat deposits are
prone to dissolving at afaster than normal rate. This is a progressive pro-
cess and regular treatment once or twicea week for several weeks will show
a progressive result. It's important to be using the proper follow-up prod-
ucts at home. Consistency and dedication are the key to success.Seaweed
treatment for this condition is ideal.
PROCEDURE
1. Prepare the client as for the back treatment. The client may choose to
change intoa smock or expose the entire legs upto the panties.
2. Dry brush from the knees to the buttocks if other exfoliation is not be-
ing done (Figure 11-11).
3 . Normally, a special celluliteproduct is applied directly to theskin. This
product is often an essential-oil-based cream orgel and is designed to
FIGURE 11-11 Using abrasive gloves, dry Grushthebuttocks.

CHAPTER 1 I SeaweedTreatments I5 1
FIGURE 11-13 Apply the seaweed mask to the FIGURE 11-14 Using a warm sponge, wash
thighs and Gwttocks. the mixture off the body.
stimulate the circulation to the area being treated. This product is nor-
mally massaged in vigorously (Figure 11-12).
FIGURE 11-12 Vigorouslymassage
the cellulite product into the skin. 4. The seaweed mask is prepared with about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of seaweed
with warm waterand other additives as prescribed. It is then appliedto
the thighs andbuttocks from the knee up (Figure 11-13).The area is then
wrapped in foil or plastic. Foil is preferred due to the increased heat
transference. The mixture sits for 15-20 minutes.
5. Wash the mixture off with hot towels, shammies, or sponges (Figure
11-14).
6. If the area has been reddened with a circulatory stimulant(vasodilator,
which causes the capillaries to expand and causes redness),then it's
advisable to apply a cooling solution or cream (vasoconstrictor,which
soothes and causes thecapillaries to contract).
7. Apply finishing lotion/cream and finishing powder.
CONTRAINDICATIONS FOR TREATMENTS

Openwounds
Varicoseveins
Bruising
Sensitive skin
Localized Treatment for Different areas of the body can betreated in this manner-shoulders, lower
back, arms, legs. The important thing to keep in mind with any spot treat-
Achy/Sore Muscles ment is whether to use a warming or cooling product under mask. the Where
swelling may be present,cooling treatments are a must. Where parts of the
musculature are just tense, warming treatments are ideal. In some cases,use
of both warm and coolis invigorating and relaxing.Your product manufactur-
ers will make specific recommendations on use. Keep in mind that when do-
ing spot treatments it is prudent to do no more thantwo areas ata time.
GOAL OF TREATMENT
This treatment is designed to relax muscles and relieve stress and tense-
ness in the area.

Broken bones
Strained ligaments or tendons-avoid treatment without physician’s
direction.
Spa Manicure1 As sophisticated as this sounds, and as chargeable as it is, the actual
procedure is quite simple. It entails following the regular manicure/pedi-
Pedicure Treatments cure procedure for the most partand then applying a seaweed mask mix-
ture and wrapping in plastic during the time the other hand or foot is
being prepared for polish. Also,depending on the type of seaweed used,
the legs and feet can be rinsed off at the station in the footbathwater. It’s
quite easy to use a hot towel or shammy to rinse off the handsand arms.
The seaweed masking procedure must take place prior to application of
polish, particularly if essential oils are involved in the massage or mask
because they can dissolve polish. Special exfoliation also enhances the
manicure and pedicure in a spa procedure.After removal of the mask, be
sure to use a lotion/astringent to remove all traces of oils from the nails
before polish application.
GOAL OF TREATMENT
The goal isto add a more advancedlevel of exfoliation and conditioningto
the skin.
PROCEDURE
1. Cleanse and disinfect hands/feet .
2. While one hand/foot is soaking (if using foot bath, essential oils or spe-
cial spa products including seaweed canalso be added to bath water),
exfoliate the other.
3. Massage one hand/foot with appropriate treatment oil, serum, or cream.
Massage other hand/foot .
4. Mix about 1/3 cup seaweed mixturewith warm water and essential oil
additives if any and applyto each hand/foot and wrap in plastic or foil.
While hand/foot is wrapped, prepare finger- andtoenails for polish ap-
plication. Let mask sit for 5-10 minutes. Rinse off and besure all traces
of oil have been removed.
5. Massage in hand/body lotion/cream onskin, avoiding nails.
6. Apply polish as usual.
CHAPTER I 1 Seaweed Treatments 153

Openwounds
Freshlyshaved skin (legs)
Inflammation
Bust Trea tmen t As shy as the American woman who

is, there is probably not a single female
wouldn’t like her bustline to be in better condition. Bust treatments don’t
increase bust size, butthey can work to firm, smooth skin, and softenthe
area. The manner in which bust treatments are done varies a great deal
from manufacturer to manufacturer.
The following is a simple example. It is advisable to learn proper bust
massage and check into legal limitations in your area prior to offering this
service. Bust treatments are strongin Europe and their popularity is grow-
ing in America. Above all, keepthe bust area covered as much as possible
and keep movements firm. Prepare the client by having her wear a smock
or removing hertop. Cover the bust areawith a large towel. Treatment dura-
tion is 30-45 minutes.
GOAL OF TREATMENT
This treatment is designed to condition and soften the skin on the breasts
as well as to stimulate circulation to the area. The underlying pectoral
muscles will also be stimulated to tone up.
PROCEDURE
1. Cleanse the bust area with a gentle cleanser, avoiding thenipples. Re-
move the residue with a warm shammy or sponges.
2. I f an exfoliant is to be used, be sure it’s very gentle anddoesn’t require
too much rubbing. Avoid nipples.
3. Massage in appropriate massage oil/creamor treatment productfor 5-
10 minutes.
4. Prepare about 1/4 to 1/3 cup seaweed mixture with warm water and
massage onto breasts avoiding nipples. Cover nipples with gauze or
cotton pads and cover area with plastic or foil. Allow to sit 15-20 min-
utes. Do not allow mask to dry too hard.
5. Remove mask with warm water and shammy or sponges.
6. Apply finishing lotion/cream and finishing powder. Advise client of ne-
cessity of weekly or biweekly treatments and home care follow-up.

Systemic disease
Inflammation
Bruising
Tenderness to touch
154 SalonOvation'sDaySpa Techniques
FIGURE 11-15 Seaweed is a natural ingredient for facial masks.
FacialTreatments Naturally,seaweedcanbe used very effectively in facial masks and as addi-

tives to other systems (Figure 11-15). The most important thing to be cau-
tious about when using seaweed in facial treatment is the potential for
reaction. Seaweed is quite active and those persons with a potential for
iodine or seaweed allergyresponses can have severe reactions. It is always
best topatch test before using in facial treatments.
............................................
SPA POINT
Seaweed is obviouslygreatin all sorts ofbodytreatments,from full body to
cellulite. The types of algae may bedifferent and can, therefore,perform any
number offunctions.
............................................
Thalassotherapy Spas and therapeutic treatment centers the worldover use seaweedexten-
sively in all water-related therapies. Seaweed can certainly soften and
Bath Treatments smooth skin, but its greatest benefit in a bath situation
is the remineralization
that takes place. As a rule, seaweed is micronized into a fine powder that
when mixed with warm waterconverts to a highly absorbent state.Lying in
a bath for 15-30 minutes provides phenomenal energizing and metabolic
stimulation.As a bath additive, it's best to follow the manufacturer's recom-
mendations, but in general add about 1 to 1-1/2 cups of seaweed to a quart
of warm water and mix well. Then add to bath water when the tub is over
half-filled. The skin will immediately feel smooth, soft, and conditioned.
The metabolic improvement variesfrom person to person. But the treat-
ment can be repeated daily to once a week if desired if the person is a
normal healthy individual.See also chapter 3.
CHAPTER I I SeaweedTreatments I55
............................................
SPA POINT
There is nothing more historical and effective than a thalassotherapy 60th. This
ideally combines the riches of hydrotherapy with the benefits of seaweed. Refer
also to chapters 2 and 3 for furl benefits.
............................................
The resultsof using seaweedwill be rapidly self-evidentto the technician as

Synopsis well as the client. Seaweed provides myriad strategic benefitsfor the entire
body or just specific parts and has been used since practically the begin-
ning of time. With the development of scientific research methods and cos-
metics, the future understanding of the value of seaweed on the human
body will increase. Until then, seaweed as a natural invigorating source of
skin and metabolic treatment should suffice. Unless there is a particular
contraindication or allergy present, every client you see is an ideal candi-
date for this wonderful destressingsubstance.
Review 1 . How much of the earth is water?

2. What is valuable for humans from seawater?
3. What arealgae?
4. What are two main uses of algae in esthetics?
5. Name two specific body treatments with seaweed.
6. What is a common contraindication of seaweed usage?
CHAPTER 12
Other Treatments
OVERVIEW
"Othertreatments"does not imply lesser importance than the specific treat-
ments discussed under exfoliation,seaweed, or mud. Theother treatments
to be discussed here coincide with chapter 8 and will highlight the proce-
dures for the spot treatments.
SPOT TREATMENTS
It's important to keep in mind that the various spot treatments can be done
alone or in conjunction with full-body treatments. Coordinating allaspects
may be abit confusingat times, but the end result is a more effectivetreat-
ment system and much greater profits.Also, different product lines will
have different concepts and procedures so the procedures discussed will
be generalized. You must refer to your manufacturer for specific step-by-
step procedures.
cotton blanket. The bed warmer will be turned on prior to all treatments to lieep the client warm and then be turned off
during the mash waiting time. After mash removal it may be turned O M again as needed to keep the client warm. Bed
war not be used in wet rooms.
Spa Manicure/ The spa manicure and pedicure will be similar to a normal manicure and
pedicure exceptfor the addition of a few steps and products.The next treat-
Pedicure ment, the hand and arm, foot and leg treatment, is also basically the same
but without the actual nail care procedures. Understand that references to
hand and foot mean arm andleg to elbow and kneeas well.
GOAL OF TREATMENT
This is the ideal manicure and pedicure that adds a unique and client-holding
dimension to normal nailcare services without adding much time. Allow only
about 15-30 minutes for the service. The spa addition will mineralize, exfoli-
ate dead skin, and gofar in extra softening and conditioning of the skin, cu-
ticles, andnails. The mineralization is great for strengtheningthe nails.
PROCEDURE
1. Clean and disinfect client's hands and feet.
2. Starting with left hand/foot, remove old polish.
156
CHAPTER 12 Other Treatments 157
3. File nails of left hand and foot, then immerse hand and foot in hand
and foot baths. You may add an aromatherapy bath gel or essence to
the water if desired.
4. Repeat step 3 on right hand and foot.
5. While right hand and foot are bathing, the left hand and foot can be
exfoliated. Use a salt mixture or body polish for this, not a dissolving
enzyme due to the hand and foot soak softening the skin. Wash offsalt
mixture, push back cuticles with cuticle solvent, and clean under free
edge of nails.
6. Repeat step 5 on right hand and foot.
7. Apply cuticle oil to cuticles and massage oil to hand and foot. Massage
for 3-5 minutes. Repeat on other hand and foot.
8. Apply mudor seaweed maskon hands and feet and wrap in foil or plas-
tic (Figure12-1). If desired, a serum, lotion, or special treatment may be
applied to skin before the mask. The mask will sit for 10- 15 minutes and
then be washed off. It’s easy to wash the mask off the feet in the foot
bath if the product doesn’t clog the bath. Wash the hands and arms
with hot towels, shammies, or sponges and dry.
9. Massage in finishing lotionor cream, but be sure there is no oil or sea-
weed residue on or under the nails. If necessary, use freshener to be
sure all oil has been removed from the nails.
10. Apply base coat to nails and then two coats of polish. Apply top coat
and spray with nail dry.
FIGURE 12-1 Once the mask is applied to tfie legs and feet, wrap in foil or plastic.

Fungus or other nail disease
Open cuts or wounds
Edema,infection,inflammation
Spa Hand and Arm, As with the spa manicure and pedicure, the treatment should be done from
the hands to above the elbowat least and from the foot to above the knee.
Foot and Leg Treatment These treatments are highly invigorating as was discussed in chapter 8. Ei-
ther or both of these treatments may be incorporatedwith facialtreatments,
spot treatments, scalp treatments, or other hairstyling procedures. They
also entice the consumer into returning for bodytreatments. When the tech-
nician has a little free time, it’s
good to offer a sampling of the effects of the
treatment on one hand andarm just to show the client the difference. Obvi-
ously this means that your product and treatment must show a visible dif-
ference. Since the nails aren’t being done, the hand or foot bath may be
eliminated as desired. For the feet, it’s niceto still use the foot bath. Again,
the terminology will basically referto the hands and feet butwith the under-
standing that this includes the arms and legs.
GOAL OF TREATMENT
The goal of this treatment is to remove dead cells and soften,refresh, and
condition the hands and feet.
PROCEDURE
1. Sanitize hands and feet with disinfectant spray. Technician’s hands
should also be sanitized or glovesworn as desired.
2. Cleanse the hands and feet with appropriate cleanser/toner.
3. Apply exfoliant and let sit appropriate amount of time. If the product
requires mixing and a longer waiting time, you may want to apply prod-
uct to one hand then the other, allowing you timeto remove one while
the other is processing. If it is a rub-off type product, you may rub off
one hand or foot while the other one is waiting. I f using the foot bath,
you may also soak one foot in the bath while doing theother foot. Be
sure to put some essential oil into the foot bath. You may also use a salt
mixture for exfoliation fora spa effect, Be sure salt is not a problem for
your foot bath.
solution.This may be
4. I f applicable, apply special conditioning or active
a hydrating ampoule, a special aromatherapy lotion to stimulate circu-
lation, or a menthol rub. Rub in well (Figure 12-2).
5 . Apply appropriate massage product and perform a 5- 10 minute mas-
sage.
6. Apply spa mask. This may be any number of masks but seaweed ormud
will work best. Most muds that can be washed down drains will wash all
legs and feet well in the foot bath with a sponge. Be sure to apply an
CHAPTER 12 OtherTreatments 159
FIGURE 12-2 An aromatherapy lotion can &e applied to stimulate circulation.
ample amount of oil or lotion aroundthe nails of the hands and feetto
alleviate the seaweed or mud collecting in those areas.A hand brush
will still be needed to be surethe mud and seaweedcomes off the nail
bed. Another alternative to avoid the problem of mud and seaweed
around the nails is to apply the product upto but not aroundthe finger-
or toetips. Wrap the hands and feet in plastic orfoil as directed by the
supplier. You should use smaller pieces of foil and plastic.Let the client
rest for 10 minutes while you clean up andprepare for the finish. (Paraf-
fin mask may also be doneat this stage as an alternative.)
7. Remove the plastic orfoil and wash off hands and feet. Use brush to be
sure all traces of mud or seaweed are outfrom under the nails.
8. Finish with application of appropriate lotion or cream and dust feet
with finishing powder(talcum powderwill do also) to prevent the client
from slipping.

Fungus or nail disease
Open cuts or wounds
Scalp TreatrneMt Scalp treatments have beenpopular in years past and haverecentlyexperi-
enced a resurgence in interest. Scalp treatments are wonderful in full-ser-
vice day spas where hair is done. If you choose to doscalp treatments in a
spa where no hair is done, the client mustbe informed that the hair will be
washed but not styled. This is a very quick and viable treatment with or
without other hair services.
GOAL OF TREATMENT
The goal of this treatment is to reduce head, neck, and scalp tension; relax
the scalp's skin; condition and stimulate the scalp.
PROCEDURE
1. Shampoo hair and scalp
2. Apply special treatment-conditioning solution, ampoule, or essential
oil complex-and massage into the scalp area only, not hair.
3. Apply massage cream, oil, or hair conditioner and perform a IO-minute
massage. The massage should includethe neck and upper shoulders.
4. Apply mask. This may be seaweed, mud, or other appropriate spa-
oriented mask. The head will now be wrapped in foil or plastic, thenin a
towel and allowed to sit for 5-10 minutes. I f you have heat lamps or
steam hair dryers, they may be used and the time shortened to 5-7
minutes.
5. Rinse the mask out and do another quick, lightshampoo. Rinse, condi-
tion hair,and blow dry.

Scalp disease or open wounds
Overlysensitivescalp
Cellulite Treatment The cellulite treatment is one of the most popularof all the spot treatments,
and will be a great drawto your day spa. Although it has been said time and
time again, it warrants repeating: celluliteis not curablenor is the treatment
of it a weight-loss program. To have a viable effect on cellulite, the client
must be willing to do the following:
Eatwell concentrating on foods with a highfiber content and lots of
fruit.
Drink lots of water (twelve to fourteen 8-ounce glasses a day)
Getactiveexercise.
Have the cellulitic areas massaged and stimulated by dry brushing or
scrubs 2-3 times a week minimum.
Have appropriate in-spa treatments and follow home care product rou-
tines diligently.
GOAL OF TREATMENT
The goal of all cellulite treatments is to stimulate the circulation and me-
tabolism to help the body eliminate toxins and wastes. lt is also to help
break up fat deposits that can in turn be flushed out of the body through
CHAPTER I 2 OtherTreatments I61
the elimination system. A series of six to twelve biweekly treatments will

offer the optimum resultsfaster.
PROCEDURE
1. The bed will be set up as usual but with foil cut to fit waist to knee.I f the
cellulite treatment is being done with a full-body treatment, a full piece
of foil should be placedon the bed. If exfoliation is being done aswell,
plastic should be placed on top of the foil. It will be removed after the
exfoliant has been removed.
2. The areas of cellulite, usually from the knees to the waistincluding the
backs of the thighs and buttocks, are normally treated. Cellulite treat-
ments are also more effective if an exfoliation takes place first, unless
there is quite a lot of varicosity. I f you are not doing an exfoliation, be
sure tod r y brush the areafirst. I f doing an exfoliation,apply the exfoliant
of choice and massage well. This should be a fairly active massage to
stimulate the circulation.After all the exfoliant has been taken off,re-
move the plastic from under the client.
3. Apply the cellulite treatment. This may be a gel, an ampoule, or an es-
sential oil complex. Rub in well.
4. Immediately apply the mask. Do not do a massage a t this point. The
mask may be seaweed, mud, or whatever has beenchosen. The client is
immediately wrapped in the foil,sheet, and blanket and allowed to rest
for 15-20 minutes. if doing a full-body treatment, the rest of the body
would be masked and wrapped in the same foil. I f doing full body, the
waiting timeisnormally 30 minutes. The added IO minutes on the
a side note, this is a good time tostart a facial,
cellulitic area is fine. (As
do an eye treatment, etc.)
5. When the foil is opened, it’s important to shower immediately or wash
the legs offwell with hot towels to prevent the client from becoming
chilled. Thefoilis then removed and the client should be lying on a
clean dry towel. ideally the mask will be showered off.if you have done
a full-body wrap, the client stays mostly wrapped up to the showerand
drops the foil in the shower.When the client emergesfrom the showera
new fresh dry towel and robe should be ready.
6. The finish varies from product line
to product line,but since many cellulite
treatments include productsthat stimulate the blood circulation through
vasodilators (expands the capillaries),a vasoconstrictor (contractsthe
capillaries) should be applied if available. Then the treatment is com-
pleted with application of body lotion or cream. I f doing the full-body,
the cellulitespot treatment (vasoconstrictor)would be applied firstand
then thewhole body would be finishedwith the lotion,cream,or desig-
nated product. Since massage wasn’t done before the mask, a 30-minute
or 1-hour massage is an ideal companiontreatment. I f massage is to be
done, donot apply finishing lotion orcream. This will be coveredby the
massage product.

Telangiectasia
Hypersensitive skin
Edema, infection, inflammation
Antistress Treatwtent As stated in chapter 8, this is a term for areas of the body where muscles
may be sore and achy, and where there may be a buildup of lactic acid.
Treatmentsto relieve stress are very popular and should be done on a regu-
lar basis for optimum results. Antistress treatments may be done alone or
in conjunction with another spot treatment and/or a full-body treatment.
The procedure for this is similar to a cellulite treatment in most cases.
GOAL OF TREATMENT
The goal of this treatment is to relieve muscular tension, stress, and overall
discomfort in the tense areas. Common areas for this treatment include
the neck, shoulders,and lower back. It may also include knees and elbows.
Sometimes this treatment is used after broken bone injuries. It should be
done after all initial swelling has subsided,or only cooling treatment should
be done. Physician consent should be obtained in advance.
PROCEDURE
1. The bed is set up with the blanket, sheet, towel, and foil. If exfoliation is
being done, also lay down plastic. The size of the foil depends on the
size of the area being done. More than one area can be done in one
treatment as desired.
2. The area is dry brushed or exfoliated as appropriate.
3. The antistress product is applied. This will be an ampoule, essential oil
complex, or lotion and is most often a vasodilator to stimulate the cir-
culation.
4. The seaweed, mud, or other mask is applied and the client is wrapped
in the foil, sheet, and blanket and allowed to rest 15-20 minutes. If it is
being done in conjunction with a full-body treatment, the mask would
be applied to the rest of the body then wrapped in the foil, sheet, and
blanket and allowed to rest for 30 minutes. The additional 10 minutes is
fine for the antistress portion.
5. The foil and product is then removed, preferably by showering if done
on a full body. Remember, the client may chill when the foil is opened
so it’sbest to help the client into the shower and let the foil drop to the
floor in the shower. If only a small area was done for antistress, it’s easy
to wash this off with hot towels or sponges.
6. If a vasodilator has been used, a vasoconstrictor should be applied to
the stressed area and then a finishing lotion or cream should be ap-
plied. Do not apply any cool product on the entire body. It can chill the
client very quickly. Apply it only to the spot areas and then finish the
body with a lotion. Since massage hasn’tbeen done with this treatment,
a 30-minute or I-hour massage can be a great companion treatment. If
so, do not apply the finishing lotion or cream since the body will be
massaged with oil or cream anyway.

Edema, infection, inflammation.
Broken bones. Obtain physician consent.
Bust Treatment The bust area is a good treatment area for most women over thirty or preg-
nant women. Although the treatments should not be done on nursing moth-
ers, it’san ideal pre- and posttreatment to help firm and tone the bust area.
In many cases, due to the shyness of American women, the client should
begin by using retail products at home and then expand to the spa once
she has begun to get used to the idea.There is still hesitancy on the part of
many women, but the desire for a better bustline is there. Do not make
promises of increased or decreased size.
GOAL OF THE TREATMENT

The goal of all bust treatments is to stimulate the area to improve skin tex-
ture and feel and to help tone up the pectoral muscles and surrounding
skin. The skin will have an improved firmness with a series of treatments.
Bust and cellulite treatments require more frequent treatment and dedica-
tion to achieve the desired results. A series of six to twelve biweekly treat-
ments is recommended. Bust treatments are also highly recommended
after augmentation surgery to keep the area supple and implants soft and
pliable. It’s also great as a presurgical procedure.
P
All movements in the bust area should be hand over hand to reinforce the movements without jiggling the breasts. The
movements shouId be firm. Figure eight and circular movements are recommended. The breasts should be kept covered as
much as possible during the treatment. Depending on the product line and shyness of the client, most steps, including the
massage, can be done by one hand with the other hand holding a towel over the area to avoid exposure of the breasts.
This is normally not necessary after the client has experienced a few treatments but may be helpfuI in the beginning to
protect modesty. Some treatments cannot do this at the mask stage due to clay or molding mask applications.
PROCEDURE
1. The bed should be set up with blanket, sheet, towel, foil, and plastic if
doing exfoliation.There should also be a hand towel to keep the breasts
covered between steps.
2. Dry brushing is normally not done.Avery light quickexfoliation is recom-
mended. This can be included in the treatment without concern for too
much added cost or time. Very little exfoliant is used and the procedure
time is greatly shortened to just 1-2 minutes. The exfoliant is washed off
with sponges or shammies and warm water. The breasts are covered.
3. There may be a large differencein treatment products. If it is a gel, you

may want to put the gel in a small bowl and warm it before application
to avoid chillingthe breasts. Sometimes, the gel, ampoule,or substance
is mixed with the massage cream and a 5-7 minute massage is per-
formed. Sometimes vasodilatorsand vasoconstrictors are mixed to di-
lute the sensation for this delicate area, or the treatment products may
be applied and then massage cream applied and massage done. The
massage is normally done atthis time rather thanafter mask removal,
again for the comfort of the client.
4. The maskis now applied to the entire upper chest (decollete) breasts,
and
making sure to avoid the nipples. The mask may be seaweed or mud.
Only about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of the mixture will be needed unless other-
wise directed. The nipples should thenbe covered with tissues, cotton,
or gauze. The bust area is then wrapped or covered in the foil and al-
lowed to rest for 15-20 minutes. Again full-body treatment or another
spot treatment may be done atthe same time. If so, after the mask has
been applied to the bust area, the rest of the upper arms, chest, stom-
ach (if applicable),and back shouldbe covered and wrapped. Then fin-
ish the rest of the body. In some cases, technicians prefer to sit the
client up, apply the mask on the back, lay the client back down, and
then apply it to the chest and arms. The most important thing is to
keep the breasts covered and protected at all times. Whichever method
works best for you is fine. This procedure will also vary with different
treatments. If full-body treatment is being done, the extra 10-15 min-
utes will not normally be a problem. But if it is, you may need to open
the wrap, rinse the bust area, cover itwith a dry hand towel,and rewrap
for the remainder of the full-body treatment.
5. At removal, if full-body treatment is done, showering is the best. I f only
a bust treatment is done, the foil should be opened and the bust area
washed off quickly with hot towels or shammies. The faster the better.
Re-cover with towel.
in the treatment, now apply a very small
6. I f a vasodilator was used amount
of the vasoconstrictor or dilute it with the vasodilator so the client
doesn’t chill. Apply a finishing lotion or cream and massage in well.
Cover the breast area and finish the rest of the body if applicable.

Lactating (nursing)mother
Immediately after surgical procedure; obtain physician consent
Systemic disease such as breast cancer
Back Treatment Of all the spot treatments available,this is probablythe most desirableone.
Many people will come in to try a back treatment even before a full-body
treatment. Back treatments, or back facials as they are sometimes called,
are immensely popular for women duringthe holidays and high social sea-
sons due to backless evening gowns. For teenagers and many men, back
treatments can help correct acne breakouts and infections. They are very
stress relieving and relaxing.
GOAL OF TREATMENT
1. To deep cleanse an area difficult to reach in normal daily care
2. To exfoliate excessive dead cell buildup
3. To facilitate the expulsion of excess oils, removal of comedones and
pustules
4. To moisturize and condition the back
5. To relax and reduce stress
6. To relieve muscular tensionon the neck, shoulders, upper and
lower back
PROCEDURE
The bed should beset up with blanket, sheet, towel, foil, and/or plastic.
The client this timewill be lying face down, so if you have a bed with a
breathing hole or facial cradle be sure the area is lined with a towel or
disposable paper covering.
or dry brushed. Cleansing and exfoliation are
The back is first cleansed
strongly recommended. After the area has been cleansed and rinsed
with hot towels, the back should be readyfor exfoliation.
Apply the chosen exfoliant and work into the back well. The back area
can handle a little more aggressive treatment. Some technicians even
like to use the electric brushesfrom the facial machineto deepcleanse
the back. I f appropriate, a steamer may be used in conjunction with the
cleansing or exfoliation procedure.
After the removal of the exfoliant, the plastic underneath should be re-
moved. Then manual extractionof comedones and pustules should take
place if applicable. Immediately after extraction the area should be disin-
fected and high-frequency current may be used directly on the skin as
long as there are no contraindications. The contraindications for back
treatment will be the same as for any facial treatment. Gloves must be
worn by the technician during the extraction and after if anything was
extracted.
After the area has been disinfected,any special treatment products such
as ampoules, lotions, serums, or essences may be applied. Then the
massage is normally done for about IO- 15 minutes, concentrating on
areas of tension and stress.
The appropriate mask is then applied and the back wrapped up in the
foil or plastic. The mask may be mud, seaweed, or any other product
desired.Sometimes a clay-based mask is used to help drawout dirt and
oils. Sometimes a combination of two masks is used. After the clientis
wrapped and covered with the sheet and blanket,the resting timeis 15-
20 minutes. A full-body treatment can also be done in conjunction with
a back treatment, but a back treatment is most often done alone.
7. The foil is then removed and the back either washed off or showered
off. If washed off, hot towels are ideal and feel very relaxing to the cli-
ent. The treatment ends with finishing lotion or cream and sometimes
with a finishing powderto be sure no oil bleeds onto the clothes. Back
treatments should be done weekly in a situation wherethe client is bro-
ken out. For anyone else, a monthly back treatment would be sufficient.

Any heart condition if high-frequency current is planned for disinfection
If the person can’t lie on the stomach for 30-45 minutes
Spa Facial As stated in chapter 8, a spa facial is actually nothing unusual except
for the
use of more aromatherapy, seaweed,and mud. Some seaweeds and muds
are designed for the face and some are not. Be sure to check with your
suppliers before arbitrarily putting body products on the face.
GOAL OF TREATMENT
The goal of the treatment would be to take a regular facial and make it
appear more spa-like by adding seaweed or mud with a concentration on
marine extracts and aromatherapy. Although aromatherapy is often used
in facials anyway, you may choose to create special aromatherapy mas-
sage and masks that are more similar to body treatments. How the treat-
ment is done is u p to the manufacturer, but for simplicity a sample
treatment follows.
PROCEDURE
1. Set up facial bedby placing a blanket then sheet over the bed and fold-
ing it into a cocoon shape for the client to get inside of.
2. The head is wrapped in a towel and headband; a towel covers the chest
area.
3. The eye makeup and lipstick are removed with cleanser first, then the
face is cleansed. Cleanser is removed with sponges or a shammy, and a
freshener is used to remove the residue.
4. A deep pore cleanse takes place under steam. (Sometimes the brush
machine may be used for a mechanical cleansing.) Steaming continues
for about 5-7 minutes and then the face is washed and rinsed until
clean. In lieu of a deep pore cleanser, an exfoliant
may be chosenat this
point. The application and duration vary with the product, but normally
take less than 5 minutes.
CHAPTER I2 Other Treatments 167
5. I f extractions or galvanic disincrustation is to be done, it will be done

now, Be sure to wear gloves forthe extraction.If galvanic is beingused,
the treatment should be for disincrustation with the current on nega-
tive, and then positive to restore the pH balance or to penetrate a
water-based ampouleor serum.
6. Immediately after the extraction, the areas of extraction should be dis-
infected and then high-frequency, direct current
applied.
7. If a special ampoule or serum is to be used, it will now be applied, and
then the massage takes place. This should be an aromatherapy mas-
sage of some kind for about 15 minutes.
8. A spa-like mask of mud, seaweed, or similar substance is then applied.
The mask sits with or without steam for about 10- 15 minutes and then
is washed off.
9. The skin is toned with the freshener and day cream is applied to finish
the treatment.

No electrical equipment on client with pacemaker or heart condition
Be cautious with high and low blood pressure or systemic disease
Do not use electricity on a pregnant client
Do not use substances ofknown allergies; be careful about iodine in
seaweed as someare allergic to it
Edema,infection,inflammation,telangiectasia
Anytime in doubt
............................................
SPA POINT
It’s important to remember that all spot treatments can be combined in a multi-
tude of ways. Many will be done in conjunction with hydrotherapy. For example,
any usage of mud, whether just for a local area offor the whole body, rinses off
well in a wet room environment, hence the Vichy shower is a great add-on. Any
spot treatment done with seaweed or mud and a wrap is easily tied to a full-body
treatment of the same or similar kind due to the application of the same sub-
stances, wrapping, etc. The name of the game is to combine for efficiency, to
maximize treatmentpotential, and to generate morebusiness and income in
about the same amount of time.
............................................
OTHER HOT AND COLD TREATMENTS
Hot and cold adds dimension to spa body treatments. We have already
discussed them from a product and water standpoint but a few others should
be briefly mentioned hereas well. A point of quick review-heat is stimulat-
ing and relaxing; cold invigorates and soothes. Cold is used to calm red-
ness and swelling. Heat is used to stimulate the circulation and metabo-
lism. The following modalities help increase the effects of the treatment
goals by using coldor heat.
Hot Treatments SAUNA

This is a dry heat room with a temperature over 176 degrees F. The sauna
originated in Finland and is used in combination with cold plunges in the
lake or snow to contrast hot and cold treatment, similar to a Kneipp con-
cept. People whodon’t do well in moist heat will do well with short interval
sauna time. The ideal situation is to use the sauna to stimulate circulation
and perspiration, and then to briskly cool off. However, one must be very
careful if not accustomed to this. In that case, it’sbetter to sit in a sauna for
5 minutes and then slowly cool offfor a few minutes. With time the dura-
tion in the sauna and the degree of cold after the saunacan increase.
People who don’t do well in a sauna should consider moistheat. Some
asthmatics do better in a hydrotherapy tub than in a sauna. Saunas are
popular in health clubs; therefore,if you’re not purchasing all modalities, a
sauna might be one to pass on in favor of the more versatile Vichy shower
or hydrotherapy tub consideringthe mix with products and treatments.
PARAFFIN
Hot paraffin has been discussed briefly in other chapters. The overall pur-
pose of paraffin is to form an occlusive mask over the skin to seal it off. The
heat makes the skin perspireand themoisture combineswith the oils in the
paraffin or whatever has been applied and absorbsback into the skin. The
heat from the paraffin also stimulates the circulation. Paraffin is a viable
mask to use in almost all treatments-full body, hand and foot, cellulite,
back, bust. Do not use paraffin in scalp treatments.
Paraffin is popular in winter as well. Gauze is dipped in the hot paraffin
and molded to theskin of the client where the treatment is being applied.
At least three to six layers are applied, and thearea is wrapped or covered
in plastic and then a towel to hold the heat as long as possible. Usually
paraffin stays on about 10- 15 minutes. Once it’slost the heat, it’s notvery
beneficial. Parafango is paraffin with the inclusion of fango mud (Italian
volcanic ash andsulfur) to increase the mineralization of the treatment.
Although people used to like to dip hands and feet directly into the
paraffin, this is not very sanitary and is now prohibited by most states.
Wrapping withgauze is the most sanitary method. Under no circumstances
is the paraffin to bereused. Paraffin is a great mask, but do not use it over
areas of telangiectasia, infection,inflammation,or on the face of a claustro-
phobic client.
THERMAL MOLDING MASKS

These are very exciting masksfor people who are not claustrophobic.They
are normally made of a combinationof alginates. Oncethe powder is mixed
with warm water, the technician normally has about 4-5 minutes to apply
CHAPTER I 2 Other Treatrnents 169
to the skin over gauze. As the water and skin temperature come in contact
with the alginates, the mask begins to hardenin a manner similar to plaster
of Paris. The mask will normally warm and cool, warm and cool until com-
pletely hard. The hardened mask can be removed fromthe skin in one piece.
These masks are available for the face as well as for spot body treatments,
and some even for the full body. The major contraindication tothese masks
is telangiectasia,sensitive skin particularly to heat, and claustrophobia.
There are now masks that work in a manner similar toparaffin but due to the
coldness arebetter for the clientwith sensitive skin. Sometimes cold will help
a skin care product toabsorb better than hot and without the irritation heat
causes some skins. Cold is popular in the summer, for men, and also for
sensitive skins. It’salso nice to alternate hot and cold in the sametreatment.
Cold masks are made from a powder alginate complexthat is mixed with ice
water. It then cools and hardens into a rubber-like texture. When the cool
effect hasworn off the mask is no longer valid andcan be removed.
............................................
SPA POINT
Hot and cold mask treatments may be used seasonally for variety or in conjunc-
tion with each other. A paraffin mask can be followed by a cold mask to soothe
any redness from the stimulation of the paraffin mask and to cool the skin down.
Both penetrate well, and cold masks may be used sometimes where hot masks
such as paraffin cannot.
............................................
Synopsis Spot and special treatments are vital to the success of the day spa. They
should be demonstrated to clients and used as a draw for the bigger treat-
ments. The ability to mix and combine several treatments at once makes
this a highly profitable field when marketed well.See Day Spa Operations for
more business ideas on marketing the services. But remember, the better
they are marketed, themore successful your day spa will be.
And finally, to make the most of the spa treatments, treatments and
products must be used at home. The next chapter will discuss this.
1. Why are spot treatments good for the spa business?

Review
2. Is a spa manicure/pedicure the same as a hand and foot treatment? If
not, how is it different?
3. What are the main goals of a cellulite treatment?
4. For what is a back treatment good?
5 . What constitutes a spa facial?
6. What is a sauna and how is it different from hydrotherapy?
CHAPTER 13
Home Care
OVERVIEW
This is the most important chapter in the whole book. The pointis simple;
a good home care program makes the day spa program successful. As I
have said in classes for years, what good does it do to give a great facial or
body treatment if the client goes home and washes her face and takes a
bath in Tide detergent? We all laugh at this, but it is a true story that hap-
pened many years ago with a facial client. Technicians have no trouble ac-
knowledging the necessityof a home care programin theory, but in reality
they often never discuss home care with the client. As discussed at the
beginning of this book, it’s common for massage therapists to think only
about massage and estheticians to worry so much about the face that body
never comes up. The blazing reality that must be faced it that body care
must be taught to your clients and encouraged on a regular basis.
Another issue that must be corrected is that body care is a necessity,
not a luxury. It would be wise for you to eliminate words suchas “luxury”
and “pampering”from your brochures and treatment menus. As long as
consumers are presented with these words, they will continue to think of
body treatment as luxuries andpampering, both of which can bequite eas-
ily lived without. Even though a treatment may feel luxurious or pamper the
senses, it should never be sold that way.
............................................
SPA POINT
In a dayspaenvironment, the menus, 6rochures, and terminology from the
owners and technicians must all portray a view of body care as a necessity, not a
luxury. Luxury connotes something you can readily live without. The day spa
belief is that to have a more successful, healthful life, 6ody care is not something
you can live without. Rather, it’s a serious, viable way to 6e the 6est you can 6e.
This has to be taught to the consumer
............................................
BASIC BODY CARE NEEDS
Just asone must train a facial client to use cleansers and fresheners or a
hair client to purchase professional shampoos instead of the grocery store
versions, it’s also essential to draw your clients away from the bar soaps
they see advertised so wonderfully on television. From soap towhat?, you
may ask.
As may be seen in grocery, drug, and department stores and specialty
body and bath shops, there are hundreds of versions of soap, from the
170
CHAPTER 13 Home Care I71
inexpensive grocery store brands that dissolve almost as fast in the bath-
tub by themselves as when they’reused, tothe gorgeous colorful transpar-
ent bars seen in the specialty shops. There are also bubble baths, bath
salts, bath beads and balls. What does this tell you? Yes, that the first and
most important product for consumers is soap. Soap of some form is the
number one selling product in all the stores we’ve named. So your goal
must be to move your clients to purchasing theirsoaps from you. Your prod-
uct line must have some type of soap, hopefully a better soap than most.
Soaps BAR
There’s nothing wrongwith a barof soap aslong as it’sa good one, is made
with great ingredients,and moisturizes and cleanses without overstripping.
Transparent soaps are often goodbecause they are usually made with glyc-
erin, which is a natural humectant. The other ingredients should be skin
friendly as well. The barsoap users are generally kids,teenagers, men, and
busy women. Historically Americans are bar soap users so if you have a
good one, they’re easy to sell, and if the ingredients have a good story, it
will be easy to switch the clients to your product.
SHOWER GELS
Shower gels are very popular but are generally not for regular use. The prod-
uct may not actually be a gel, but lotion.
a but it is a liquid or creamy form of
soap. Normally these products must also have high sudsing ability. People
like to try new shower gels because of the way they lookor smell, or because
they feel excited for themoment. However, consistent repurchasingis weak
because people often feel that too much is wasted in a wash cloth or drips
out of the hands before reaching the body. In other words, because they can
be perceived as expensively wasteful, sales are often sporadic a t best. Your
shower gel sales will mirror this trend unlessyou help clients save money.
The very best, perhaps only, way to sell shower gels is in conjunction
with a big, porous, soft sponge that will hold the soap well so less shower
gel is actually usedat onetime.This may seem to you like it makes thesoap
last too long, but in reality it doesn’t. It makes it a practical, viable pur-
chase. A client can washthe whole body (assuming the shower gel is good)
using very little soap in the sponge; the soap lasts longer and the client is
happy to repurchase. Always sell liquid soaps with a sponge as a set,
Who uses liquid soaps? Women, and particularly those with dry skin.
Liquid soaps are perceived to be more moisturizing. Men are not normally
typical buyers of liquid soaps. They would be, however, if the soap could
double as a shaving cream. Most can’t,but some can. This category of soap
will grow in sales with the right presentation to the client. It’s greatto have
both a barof soap and a showergel for variety. Use one in the morning and
the other at night.
Bath Additives BATH SALTS OR BUBBLE BATHS

Bath salts or bubble baths are traditionally the fun part of body care. Bath
salts aren’teven salt. Typical bubble baths that bubblewell are merely deter-
gents with pleasant colors and fragrances butat a higher price. In America,
bubble baths and bathing with them is perceived as a fun way to get clean
and relax at the same time, before a party, when depressed, or upon landing
a new job. There is very little serious consciousnessas yet. However, thisis
an area where the day spa concept will really shine and whereyou can begin
to make great headway with your clients. But first you must teach clients that
these products from your day spa are serious; they are baths for a purpose.
Most well-designed professional bath salts or bath additives are cer-
tainly designed to cleanse somewhat, but they are also designedfor treat-
ment purposes. Some aren‘tfor cleansing a t all but strictlyfor treatment, In
combination with the benefits of bathing, the additives may work to stimu-
late the metabolism, help break up fat deposits in cases of cellulite, relax
sore muscles, or tone up skin. A milk bath or a bath oil, for example, works
to soften, condition, and soothe skin. Bath additives are often based on
aromatherapy and/or seaweed and mud. Everything you have learned about
both will help you sell and promote these products.
Bath additives should actuallybe considered a baby dayspa treatment
at home. And in fact, they are. But the point that has to be carried over is
that they are seriously designed for regular use, not just hit and miss for
fun, and that theyare actually a viable therapy.For example, normallymost
men would neverconsider in a million years taking a bubblebath. But what
if you offered a man working in a high-stress situation the opportunity to
relieve stress, relax muscles, and tone up the skin by lying in a bath for 20
minutes. He could even read the Wall Street Iourml if he wanted to. Do you
understand the presentation here? You will not present bath additives as
fun bubble baths. You will present themas treatment. And as such, you will
control and recommend how and when the clients usethem. This gives you
ongoing input into your clients’ home care programs. This category of prod-
uct alone will help you take charge of your clients!
BODY SCRUBS
Of growing popularity, body scrubs follow in the footsteps of facial scrubs
because of the increased awarenessof the need to exfoliate dead skin. Body
scrubs are presentedin every shape, size, and format and are often a televi-
sion highlight. Many people who don’t want to spend the money on scrubs
accomplish the same thing by purchasing loofahs,mitts, or abrasive cloths.
The realityis that they reallydon’treplace scrubs.Although this author doesn’t
recommend scrubs for the face a scrub on the body onceor twice a week is
great. The advantageof a scrub over a loofah, for example, liesin the fact that
the loofah is only a raw abrasive with no buffering capabilityor moisturizing
capacity. Most scrubs areat least in a cream that hassome kind of emollient
base to cut the immediate roughnessof the abrasive granules.
The granular scrubs are made with a variety of scrubbing grains, from
the pits of certain fruits to nuts,oatmeal, pumice, silicone, or polyethylene
balls. There are many different textures of scrubs and the one your client
should use is yours. Why? Because you know best how it should be used.
Consumers can’t receive proper advice on the strength of the scrub in a
CHAPTER 13 Home Care 173
department- or grocery-store environment andmay develop resulting prob-

lems with skin sensitivity or irritation. However, you know your scrub and
you can give specific instruction on how best to use it beneficially without
harm. This is a simple product that is well understood by the public.What
they don’t know is the negative skin sensitivity part and you can save them
with this explanation alone. Who likes scrubs? Everyone, but particularly
men, teenagers, and those with oily skin. Even though it isn’t recommended
for the face, people with oily skin delight in rubbing, scrubbing, and strip-
ping their skin. They are instinctive buyers of this product. You will then
have to keep them from using it on the face.
............................................
SPA POINT
Your line can and will sell to consumers because the body products you sell also
exist in a similar format in grocery, drug, department, and specialty stores. But
what makes you better able to sell them is your professional expertise O M how to
use them more efficiently,more effectively,and more economically.Soaps, scrubs,
and bath additives are all essential products; just present them as such.
............................................
Body Conditioning Unless all your clients happen to be young and have perfect bodies, they
can all use some form of moisturization after bathing and showering. As
and Moisturizing long as they have skin, they will need these products. Keep this in mind at
the outset and your sales will automatically increase. Additionally, as with
or concentrated
all products, professionalones are generally more intensive
and targeted to special needs.
BODY MILKS/LOTIONS
Usually body milks and lotions are in a liquidy milky emulsion designed for
quick applicationand absorption. They generallyare not overly richin emol-
lients and are, therefore, ideal for day-to-day all-purpose bodycare. Every-
one needs a body lotionor milk after bathing andat bedtime. Women tend
to like fragranced body lotions and men generally will gravitate to unscented
versions. There canbe a happy medium within many of the aromatherapy
bath products available, light but natural and results-oriented scents.
When you sell any cleansing product, you should, in fact must, sell a
moisturizer as well. A common deterrent for sales of body lotions is the
ability of clients to purchase quite large sizes of Brand X in the grocery
store for much less money. One answer to this is typically, “You get what
you pay for.”But a better approach might be to explain that general body
lotions aren’t really targeted for much more than addingsome emolliency;
cooking oil can do the same. However, professional products generallyare
concentrated in highly effective ingredients that do more. Additionally, be-
ing concentrated, a smaller amount oftenworks better and in the end less
product is used so the price to use value is offset. In other words, a very
high quality concentrated lotion may last as long as a jug of Brand X be-
cause of the concentration andadded effectiveness.
BODY CREAMS
Body creams may perform in the same manner as lotions but are much
more concentrated and in a cream base that will have more emolliency. It
won’t absorb as readily as a lotion and is, therefore,targeted to the drier
skins and drier climates. For example, you might be happy with a body
lotion in Miami but need a body cream in Aspen. Creams are also some-
times designed to follow bodylotions for more in-depthtreatment. Women
will tend to use body creams more than men.
BODY OILS
Body oilsmay or may not be heavier than creams or lotions. Oils of late are
being developedto be highly absorptive and function with a feel like oil but
an absorption capability like lotion. Body oils are preferred to lotions by
many with dry skin. Psychologically oilssound like theydo more and soften
skin better. This depends entirely on the specific formulation.But because
the technology of oils has advanced so much in recent years, your clients
should be buying them from you instead of using baby oil or cooking oil.
You, once again, have the ability to specify the oil that’s suitable.
Aromatherapy essences are very compatible with oils and work effi-
ciently in oil bases. Men also generally prefer oils to creams or lotions as
long as they aren’t too greasy. Oils,if light, may also be used undera body
cream for extratreatment. Spray-on type oilsare highly popular todayand
are more common in professional products than grocery or drug store
brands because the technology to make a great spray-on oil generally limits
the oil to a finer gradesubstance. If you have a spray-on oilin your line, this
is an automatic selling point that makes you different.
Specialty and This is the category in which you can really stand out and shine. All of the
previously mentioned products compete in some form or another with over-
I
Spot Treatments the-counter brands, but this category oftendoesn’t exist in over-the-counter
form.This is the category in which you may find serums, liposomal lotions,
ampoules, bust products, special splashes, cellulite creams, and so forth.
Depending on yourproduct line, you might wantto call this groupthe treat-
ment products, because they often are. The more sophisticated your day
spa treatments, the more sophisticated your home care can and should be.
After you have been able to gain the trust and product sales of the regular
products, it’s important to begin training your clients onthe more serious
treatment-based products.
SERUMS/AMPOULES
Serums and ampoules are normally highly concentrated active agents in a
liquid or liposomal format to be used for special treatment of a specified
condition. Normally serums or ampoules are applied at the end of a bath
after all the cleansing and scrubbing processes are completed and just be-
fore the final moisturizing lotion,cream, or oil. Differentproducts are used
in different ways so you must look to your supplier for the specifics,but in
CHAPTER 13 Home Care 175
general thisis how they wouldbe used. The specialty serum/ampoule prob-
ably has a very specific goal and works best with regular use daily over a
period of time. This applicationand the duration must be specifically taught
to clients and reviewed from time to time. A client will easily purchase this
once but often it sits on the shelf unused for the most part due to igno-
rance or forgetfulness.You must actively control the usage to makeit cost
effective and results efficient for the client.
CELLULITE
For the ultimate in effectiveness in combatting cellulite, the clientwith this
problem must be on a good regimen of treatment at home. Most product
lines offer products to fight cellulite in the form of bath additives, treatment
gels or lotions, and finishing creams. I f all three products exist, the client
should be usingall three. I f your line has only a bath additive and a cellulite
cream, use both. Diligence and consistency is the name of the game in
cellulite!The best way to make the most of these products is for the techni-
cian to confer with the client in person or by phone periodically between
treatments to keep the client accountable and dedicated. But do so with-
out badgering the client. Cellulite products should be sold in conjunction
with a specific game plan at the spa and at home. This combination spells
success! Basically only women get cellulite unless the man has a serious
hormonal dysfunction,so this group is sold to women.
FIRMING CREAMS
Firming creams are designed to tone and firm the skin.They may be based
upon proteins or aromatherapy to stimulate the skin and underlying tis-
sues. As with cellulite, only regular, diligent use will make these effective.
They are most often used by women.
BUST PRODUCTS
This is an interesting and growing group of serums, creams, sprays, lotions,
and tonics. The reality of bust treatmentat home is similar to cellulite.It will
be effective only with dedication and regular usage. The effects that can be
expected are smoother, firmer skin;some improvement in muscle tone; and
overall improved texture. Bust products are obviously targeted for women
but should not be used by lactating mothers. Sometimes stretch markscan
be alleviated by usage throughout the pregnancy, not so much after.
MUSCLE PAIN RELIEF

Some of the aromatherapy ingredients such as menthol,camphor,and clove
work well in lotions, liquids,and creams to relieve soreness and stress. Some
product lineseven have products with these ingredients to relieve tired legs
and feet. The products can be in the format of serums, lotions, or creams
and are a growing product category due to American lifestyles and the
maturing of the baby boomers. Men will gravitate to these products for
sure and so will working, career-based women.
OTHER
There are many other individual products such as water splashes, body fin-
ishing powders.A11 of these products are valuable to the day spa and should
be integrated into the overall concept. Some aremale oriented andsome are
more generic.Look to your suppliers for details on other products.
............................................
SPA POINT
The specialty products are at first perhaps hard to sell 6ut with experience and
time will become the real Guilders of client ownership. These are the targeted
products that you will know 6est and can own your clieMt with. They are the items
that fit a specific need and if they are good, will commit your clients to a richer,
healthier life. They will also tie that client to the day spaconcept and to all of your
professional treatments.
............................................
WATER FOR HOME USE
An interesting thought to facilitate the importance of product treatment
along with bathing comes from research into the quality of water and po-
tential contaminantsin water today. According to a research projectquoted
in Encyclopedia Britannica’s Medical and Health Annual (1991) “between 29
and 91% of organic solvents people are exposed to daily could enter the
body during a I5 minute bath-substantially more than from drinking 2 li-
ters ( 1 liter is slightly more than 1 quart) of water.”So think of the nutrients
that can also be absorbed by the body through bathing.
Hydrotherapy at Home Hydrotherapy is a vital link to the success of a home-care program through
the wonderful bath products and additives for improving well-being,soft-
ening and conditioning skin, and reducing cellulite.It’simportant, however,
to consult with the client and develop a good understandingof what hydro-
therapy at home really is, what bath additivesto use, and how the client can
help the in-spa treatment and home care goals thathave been set.
............................................
SPA POINT
In spite of the fact that we all know we can’t live without water, we seldom con-
sider the truly Geneficial effects that water can provide. We tend to take this won-
derful su6stance for granted.
............................................
Baths and Showers Your clients don’t need the detailedinformation you need on hotandcold
water treatment butit might be helpfulto briefly explainin simple terms what
at Home hot and cold water will do. Hot baths/showers calm, relax, sedate, and de-
press. This is good for bedtime. Cold baths/showers invigorateand increase
tone and energy.This is good when you need to wake up or revive. Remem-
ber, coldfor too long will reverse anddepress, so cold baths should beshort.
HOT BATH
Ideally thisis done at the end of the day to relax, relievetension, and allow
bath essences or bath salts to further treat the body for whateverpurpose
is desired, Baths are probably the best mode of continued spa treatment at
home depending on the additives.
There are a myriad of fine additives forthe bath available from profes-
sional suppliers as well as from consumer retail establishments. It’s impor-
tant that you recommend the products for home use to prevent your client
from buying elsewhere. Sincethe consumer tends tojudge these products
more from an esthetic viewpoint (look,fragrance,etc.),you should take con-
trol to make suggestions on the proper and most effectiveproducts to use.
Remember, if clients are using bath products anyway, they might as well be
purchasing themfrom you. Most additives provide instructions for use, but
if that is not available,the typical lengthof time fora bath is normally about
20 minutes. If the bath water cools off too quickly, letsome water out of the
tub and add more hot waterto maintain a comfortably warm temperature.
SOME PLEASANT BATH ADDITIVES

Again, professional products are recommended rather than home care rem-
edies, but when professional products are unavailable, there are additives
such as Epsom salts for muscle relaxation and perspiration stimulation.
Apple cider vinegar is invigorating and if a lot (2-3 cups) is added to a bath,
it’s great to relieve itching. Sunburns are greatly relieved with 3-4 cups of
oatmeal because the oatmeal tends to absorb the heat generated in the
skin and may reduce some of the inflammation.
Professional products are, of course, better because they may do more
for the body and they complete the spa program at home. Chamomile and
lavender are great for relaxing; seaweeds and muds are great to mineralize
the body; and essential oils like pine, rosemary, and clove are stimulating
and help with elimination. (See chapter 6 on aromatherapy for more de-
tails.) Although the specific amount of the additive may differ between sup-
pliers, as a general rule, add about 1-2 cups of the herbs, diluted oils, or
salts to a full bathtub. I f putting pureessential oils in a bath, the number of
drops should range from IO to 30 drops according to the essence.
HOT SHOWER
Showering is, of course, the quickest type of water therapy and probably
the choice of most men and busy people. Most people consider a bath a
a day. The shower
luxurious thingto do periodically but shower daily or twice
alone has benefits just from the water. But when combined with a brush or
sponge massage, the circulation is revved up more and subsequent appli-
cation of moisturizers and lotions penetrates better.
Even without any form of rubbing the shower alone can relax and yet
stimulate the body and elicita reviving response.That’swhy most peoplefeel
more awakeand invigoratedin the shower. Obviouslya shower headthat can
be adjusted to different streams of water is good to provide a massage ef-
fect. Bath products to exfoliate or stimulate theskin can be applied before
the shower and rinsed-penetrated in the shower. A quick hot shower is in-
vigorating. A long hot shower will be relaxing and depressing to the body so
it’s best to take a quick shower in the morning and a long shower at night
before bed, or a quick shower in the morning and a bathat night.
COLD BATH/SHOWER
Although it is rare to take a coldbath, it wouldbe very invigoratingto doso.
However, another way to accomplish this is simply to take a quick cold
shower. It’s quite easyto switch from the hot waterto cold water justat the
end for a minute or two. The result will be a dramatically increasedlevel of
vigor. To take a cold showerafter a warm shower is a typical Kneipp con-
cept, and his belief wasthat this method of daily showering wouldgo far to
prolong one’slifespan. In addition to the invigoration,the cooling contracts
the skin‘spores and helps tone up the skin and underlying muscles.
FRICTION BATHS AND SHOWERS

Briefly mentioned previously, the use of a washcloth, sponge, loofah, or
brush to rev up the circulation while bathingor showering goes far in stimu-
lating the metabolism and circulation.A brisk friction massage of the area
where cellulite appears (thighs,buttocks, abdomen, upper arms) is highly
recommended to heighten the effects of any treatment or product applica-
tion programmed for cellulite reduction. Obviously you don’t want to rub
the skin raw but a slight tinglingand reddening effectworks well for cellulite.
For the rest of the body, amild comfortable tingle or slight pinktone to the
skin is fine and the personwill feel highly invigoratedafter the bathor shower.
It’s importantto teach the clientto approach this slowly and carefully.If
you sell scrubs or other exfoliants, you will want to replace the friction rub
with these products. It’s also prudent to set up a time schedule for usage,
perhaps combining friction rubs too. For example,have the clientdo the prod-
uct exfoliant/scrub once or twice a week according to the manufacturer’s
recommendations and just do the friction rub a couple of times a week. Again,
specific guidance shouldbe obtained from your product manufacturers.
WATER TREADING
Another typical Kneipp water therapywas to docold or warm water tread-
ing in the tub. This might even be considered a type of water exercise.
Cold water treading appears to be more beneficial than warm or hot wa-
ter. Cold water treading helps with leg cramping, poor circulation, overall
exhaustion or weakness, aching feet and legs, and varicose veins. The
idea is to fill the bathtub with enough cold water to reach the top of the
ankles or even midcalf and then just walk in place (tread)for up to 5 min-
utes. Kneipp believed that this should be done daily for 2-5 minutes for
the ultimate in invigorating treatment. This is a n excellent treatment for
anyone with circulatory or foot problems and really helps relieve discom-
fort. It’s also an excellent way to get the day started. You may want to
suggest a 5-minute cold water treading at the end of the shower or bath.
FOOT AND HAND BATHS

The hands and feet take the brunt of body punishment duringthe day and
are therefore more exhausted than you might think. At the end of the day, a
5-minute coldor warm soak can have the effect of invigorating or relaxing
the whole body respectively.This can be done with a foot bath, of course.
Or you may use a shower massage device on a hose and just rain on the
hands or feet fora few minutes. Or you may just putthe hands or feet under
running water from the faucet for the same amount of time. It’s surprising
how effective this is in restoring energyto the body.
TARGET SHOWERS
Sometimes directing the shower to a specific areaof the body with warm or
cold waterwill help relievediscomfort, For example, if the lower back is sore,
it’s good to target the shower for 3-5 minutes on the lower back area. To
target warm water will relieve musclesoreness,but if the areais swollen, cold
water is better. After a long day standing on your feet, you may want to do a
treading footbath, then target shower thelower back with cool water.
............................................
SPA POINT
There are any num6erof ways to use hot and cold water in 6aths and showers. In
general warm to hot baths/showers relax and cold bathslshowers invigorate. Short
durations tend to iwigorate and long durations tend to depress and relax the
system. So a short cold shower is invigorating to get ready for the day. A long
warm 6ath is relaxing at night and will facilitate sleep.
............................................
We tend to think of compresses for ailments but certain compresses can
Compresses also be beneficial for healthy persons. Warm or cool compresses may re-
lieve fatigue or soreness or just add to the penetration of a cosmetic ap-
plied to the skin underneath. A hot compress will relax; a cold compress
will stimulate and relieve swelling. Alternating hot and cold calms and stimu-
lates alternatively. An interesting effect of a cold compress when covered
by a dry clothis that it heats. As the cold beginsto wear off, heat generated
under the skin causes a warming effect that will, in turn, stimulate circula-
tion. Warm compresses when applied to the skin for a long period of time
(15-20 minutes) are relaxing and soothing. A short cool compress (3-5 min-
utes) is stimulating. So sometimes when you want to increase skin absorp-
tion of a serum, ampoule, or lotion, a cool compress will stimulate the
circulation for better penetration.
Cool compresses are also used when a person is bathing, particularly
when takinga hot bath. Cool is better to use than cold, as sometimes a very
cold compress on the forehead when bathing can cause a headache. Cool
compresses will be used with professional hydrotherapy tub treatments as
well as at home when taking a 15-30-minute bath. Compresses for health
purposes may be infused with substances, but when using in conjunction
180 SalonOvation‘s Day SpaTechniques
with hydrotherapy it is recommended that the compress not contain addi-

tives. The additives in the compress can compete with additives in the tub.
Justuse plain water for the compresses.
............................................
SPA POINT
Even just plain water compresses when used locally can facilitate penetration of
active substances for nutrition, can relieve stress and strain, and can calm or
stimulate an area of the body.
............................................
DriMliing Wuter There is no question about the importance of drinking water. Without water
the human organism cannot survive. Waterquenches thirst, helps food dis-
solve, revitalizes internal organs, and helps improve elimination, to name
just a fewof its vital functions. The reality is, however, that most people
don’t think about the importance of water much less drink enough ofit
daily. When someone is ill or has a cold, what does the physician recom-
mend first? That’sright, drink lots of water and fluids. Thepurpose of this
is to flush toxins from the system. If a person is prone to constipation, in-
creased intake of water is believed to help relieve this problem as well, yet
doesn’tparticularly cause the opposite to take place.The point to be made
here is the value of water for overall proper functioning of the whole body.
It might be a good idea to investigate the quality of drinking water in
your area so that you know if you should recommend bottled water. As a
general rule, bottled water is normally healthier. There are now dozens if
not hundreds of bottled water options from whichto choose.Bottled water
sales have increased more than 400 percent in the last decade alone, ac-
cording to Encyclopedia Britannica’sMedical and Health Annual(1991),which
goes on to say, “oneout of every 15 households use bottled water. In 1988
alone, Americans drank over 6 million liters of bottled water, a per capita
consumption of about 24.3 liters.”By the year 2000 we anticipate that this
number will have drastically increased. Water is regulated as a food by the
Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and there are criteria established for
bottled waters as well as natural waters.
Although bottled mineral waters are often recommended, it should be
remembered that they contain excessive amounts of minerals accordingto
the FDA and as such, may not be recommended for total water consump-
tion, although thisis a controversial point. It’salso controversial how much
vitamin/mineral intake people should have, so consider your sources of
regular water and drink mineral waters accordingly.
............................................
SPA POINT
Water is a critically valuable substance to maintain health and to facilitate the
body’s ability to increase metabolism and elimination, both of which will help in
cellulite reduction, improved skin texture, and general well-being.
............................................
CHAPTER I3 Home Care 181
GENERAL BENEFITS OF INCREASED WATER CONSUMPTION

Increases overallfluidflow in the body.
Improves flowof blood and lymph, thus facilitating eliminationof toxins.
Stimulates kidney and liver to function more smoothly.
Helpsovercome constipation.
Improves hydration level of the skin and internal organs.
Helps keep skin more supple by maintaining moisture balance.
The minerals in some mineral waters facilitatea senseof well-being and
fight infections.
Helps diabetics process sugars and helps to eliminate unoxidized sug-
ars in the system.
Salt in water helps athletes restore energy after excessive exercise and
from loss of moisture throughperspiration.
Cool water may help reduce fever and help regulate internal body tem-
perature.
SUGGESTIONS ON WATER DRINKING

Make it a rule to drink at least six to eight 8-ounceglasses of water a day.
Drink two glasses of cold water in the morning to invigorate theinternal
system.
Drink a good blend of cold and hot liquids.
DRINKING OTHER LIQUIDS

Do not overdoconsumption of coffee and other caffeinated drinks. Herbal
teas are recommended for their aromatherapeutic effects as well as for seda-
tive or stimulating effects. As an example, cinnamon or peppermint teas
are great stimulants whereas chamomile teas are calming and relaxing. Re-
laxing teas are a nice complement to bathing and are highly recommended
before bed.
CelluliteTveatmeut Althoughcellulite treatment has beendiscussed from a number of angles, it

should be kept in mind that any good cellulite program will include a dra-
matic increase in water drinking, friction massagein the bath, etc. The more
hydrotherapy can be used with cellulite programs, the more effectively cellulite
can be reduced. Drinking a lot of water alone will go far in helping to flush
cellulite fromthe system.It’snot a panacea, but it does help.
Synopsis Water is a substance we all know we can’tlive without. What we often don’t
consider is the fact that water can greatly enhance our health and well-
being. Water can help hydrate and soften skin, carry nutrientsand essences
into the skin, and relax or invigorate the entire organism. Water is probably
the greatest spa therapy for professional as well as home use available to
us. The key is targeting all the various forms of water treatment to the great-
est advantage. And that’s why the consumer needs you, the professional,
and the day spa to maximize the great benefits there to be realized!
Home care is not only the solidifying factor forall the greattreatments
you’lldo in the day spa, but also the money makers for you.A great techni-
cian is as strong at retail as in treatment for a very simple reason. You either
believe in the whole concept, the ingredients, and the benefits or youdon’t.
I f you do, then you have a responsibility to try to manage the products your
clients useat home. You must retail products to achieve the optimum ben-
efits of ongoing spa treatment. And finally, from a purely business stand-
point, you will make more money in retail long term than in service. And if
you’re i l l , your sales go on, but yourservices don’t.Please now refer to Day
Spa Operatiom for all your business-based needs.
1. Why is retailing products important?

Review
2. Is there a difference between grocery
store soapand professionalsoap?
3. Why are bath additives important?
4. What must be soldwith a shower gel to make it efficient and cost
effective?
5 . What is the difference betweena body lotion and a body cream?
6. How should cellulite products be used at home to be effective?
7. Why are specialty products valuable for a day spa to have?
8. Can a person live without water?
9. List some modalities of home water usage.
10. What is the difference between takinga hot showerand a cold shower?
11. How can additives be beneficialin a bath?
if you are on a cellulite
12. Why is it important to increase water consumption
reduction program?
Answers to Review Questions
CHAPTER 1
1. The term spa comes from the nameof a small town,Spau, near Liege, in
Belgium.
2. Germany is a very strong "kuf-concept country
3 . Spas in Europe are more cure (to cure an ailment) oriented whereas
spas in America are more fitness and health oriented.
4. Resort spas are located on a resort or hotel property.Amenity spas are
similar, butthe spa is not normally considereda n important profit cen-
ter. And destination spas are located in a hotel environment, but the
goal is for a spa program during thestay.
5 . Spas and day spas are compatible because the day spa can be a good
follow-upto the started destination spa program. Additionally dayspas
introduce the concept of a destination spa on a small-scalebasis.
CHAPTER 2
1 . History helps us understand the benefits of water therapy as not just a
new invention. Water therapy has been used for health and well-being
throughout the ages.
2. Hydrotherapy began probably thousands of years before Christ.
3. Hippocrates based many cures on the concept that drinking water alone
was therapeuticas was mixing water with other modalities.
4. Sebastian Kneipp is famous today for water and herbal treatments. He
was a priest who, in the 1800s,used water to cure his own health prob-
lems and then developed water-based healing therapiesfor others.
5 . Plain water is a therapy. As an example, the morning shower wakes you
up if nothing else, or a bath makesyou relax at night before bed.
6.Bath additivescan add and enhance water alone by having an
aromatherapeutic effecton the body.
have opposite effects on the body.Warm water
7. Warm and cool water can
tends to increase circulation but relax. Cool water increases circulation
as well, but if used for only a short time invigoratesthe body and stimu-
lates energy.
CHAPTER 3
1. We know the Romans were famousfor bathing by the documentation of
the 1,352 publicfountains, 13 aqueducts, 11 thermae, and926 publicbaths.
183
2. Roy Jacuzzi invented atype of whirlpool tub thathas practically become

a generic wordfor whirlpools.
7. Balneotherapy is merely the use of baths for therapy whereas thalasso-
therapy is the use of seaweed.
4. Hydrotherapy tubs are special due to the targeted jets of air and water
along with the underwater hose for massage.
5. Three typical contraindicationsto hydrotherapy would be systemic dis-
ease, high and low blood pressure, and pregnancy.
6. The ideal temperature range is 94-98 degrees F.
7. Underwater massage helps strengthen muscles, stimulates and helps
to beak up cellulitedeposits, and increases circulation.
8. The major categories are plain water, aromatherapy, and thalasso-
therapy.
9. Seaweeds usedare Spirulina, Fucus, Chondrus, Corallina, Ascophyllum
Nodosum, Chlorella, Macrocystis.(Any two of these is a correct answer.)
10. The essential oils are lavender, Clary sage, melissa, ylang ylang, berga-
mot, chamomile. (Any three of these is a correct answer.)
CHAPTER 4
1. A shower is the most basic hydrotherapy tooland is vital for cleansing
as well as certain product removal.
2. A Swiss shower has targeted shower heads that pulsate and can be
temperature variegated for various types of therapeutic treatments.
3. A Vichy shower can be a treatment by itself. However, it’s better to do
in conjunction with a mud, seaweed, or exfoliation treatment to maxi-
mize the benefits and time for both individually.
4. A steam shower/cabinet/room provides moist heat for the person who
can’ttolerate dryheat. It also offers a common modality
of hydrotherapy
that the consumer understands.
5. Many treatments work well in combination with a Vichy shower but par-
ticularly mud and salt glows.
6. A Scotch hose is a pressure hose, similar to a fireman’shose, designed
to help break up cellulite, stimulate targeted areas of the body, and
increase circulation.
7. Good sanitation is essential for the safety and protection of the client
as well as the protection and preservation of the business.
CHAPTER 5
1. Touch has many effects on the body, but, if nothing else, it goes a long
way to relax and reassure a client ensuring a more effective
treatment.
Answers to ReviewQuestions 185
2. Research has shownthat the hemoglobin levelsof both clientand tech-

nician go up during massage, which in turn increases oxygen to the
body and energizes both.
3. The Father of Modern Massage is Peter Henry Ling of Sweden
4. Respectability was hard in coming to the United States due to the his-
toric prevalence of prostitution and opportunists.
5. Some of the important effects of massage are overall increase in the
blood circulation, improvement in metabolism, relief of muscle discom-
fort and fatigue, relaxation,and improvement of skin texture. (Any two
of these is a correct answer.)
6. Client consultation is imperative before a treatment to know your limi-
tations as well as to learn about areas that might be relieved by the
massage.
7. Some common contraindicationsof massage are systemic disease, in-
fection, inflammation,open wounds, diabetes, and any time in doubt.
8. Effleurage is the movement most used in conjunction with body treat-
ments.
CHAPTER 6
1. Maurice Gattefosse is considered to have developed aromatherapy.
2. Plants have been used for morethan four thousand years. An example
from the Bible might be John 12:3 where it is stated thatMary anointed
Jesus’feet during the last supper.
3. Jasmine is the king because it’s expensive but so versatile, pleasant,
relaxing, andsoothing.The queen is rose, which is again veryexpensive
but soothing, cleansing, and least toxic and also serves as an antide-
pressant.
4. A good blendfor combination skin might begeranium, neroli,and ylang
ylang.
5. Some of the contraindicationsof aromatherapy might be allergic reac-
and
tions, systemic disease, rashes, pregnancy, inflammation, infection,
doubtful situations. (Any two of these is a correct answer.)
6. Aromatherapy is important in day spas because it is so well tested over
the course of history andso much research has shown its effectiveness
on the body.
CHAPTER 7
1 Shyness is absolutely an important consideration particularly with
Americans.
7
,
L. Thebody is a much larger area than the face, and contraindications
may have a more systemic effect.
3. Clients need to be assured that draping and good coveragewill be done

and that theonly area exposedwill be the area actually being workedon.
4. A dry room is not built to handle water. A wet room is normally tiled
and drained purposely for water exposure.
5. No glass should be allowed in a treatment area except perhaps the
bottles of essential oils, because of the danger of breakage.
6. A bed warmer is designed for a person to lie on top of whereas an
electric blanketis a cover only.
7. Sometimes bathsheets are preferable to bath towels to give the client a
sense of coverage and security.
CHAPTER 8
1. The technician must truly believein the necessity and effectiveness of
the body treatments and must experience themto be totally successful.
2. Common contraindications of body treatments include heart disease,
systemic disease, pregnancy, open wounds, inflammation, infection, and
doubtful situations.
3. A salt glow rub is a popular destination spa treatment and one that is
well known to the general public.
4. Spa treatments can't cure cellulite but can help controlit if the client is
dedicated to the full program of treatment and home-care activities.
5. Full-body seaweed mask, full-body mud mask, herbal body wrap,paraf-
fin body wrap, bodymassage, body facial,and tanning wereall dicussed
in this chapter.
6. Back, cellulite, and antistress are the most popular spot treatments.
7. Hydrotherapy greatly intensifies andenhances any individual body treat-
ment.
CHAPTER 9
1. Exfoliate means to split into or give off scales, laminae, or body cells;
come off in thin layers or scales.
2. Exfoliants are the first treatments to refresh the skin and ready the body
for more absorbing elements of other subsequent treatments.
3. Overexfoliation can occur. It causes temporary skin thinning but even-
tually may cause the skin to thicken and become rather leathery.
4. Mechanical and dissolving are the two types of exfoliants.
5. Dissolving exfoliants are sometimes preferred when the abrasiveness
of the mechanical ones is too strong.
Answers to ReviewQuestions 187
CHAPTER 10
1, Mud is synonymous with spas.
2. Clay should not be used on clients with high blood pressure.
3. Kaolin is used for deep cleansing, drawing, and tightening.
4. Clay is used in esthetics for skin softening, mineralization, metabolic
stimulation, and relaxation. (Any two of these is a correct answer.)
5. Clay should not be mixed in a metal bowl.
6. A Vichy shower is good with mud treatments.
7. Contraindications includehigh blood pressure, systemic disease, preg-
nancy, allergies,and doubtful situations. (Any one of these is a correct
answer.)
CHAPTER 11
1. Seventy percent of the earth is water.
2. Minerals, the water in seawater, and the oxygen from seaweed are all
beneficial substances for humans.
3. Algae are plants that normally grow in seawater or fresh water, at the
edge of water, and onsome trees and rocks.
4. Algae are used to soften skin; mineralize the body; provide vitamins,
minerals, and antioxidants to the body; and help the body regulate it-
self. (Any two of these is a correct answer.)
5 . There is a multitude of treatments that can be done with seaweed in-
cluding full-body masks, bath treatments, spot treatments, and facial
masks. (Any two of these is a correct answer.)
6. Contraindications to seaweed treatment include systemicdiseases, high
or low blood pressure, allergies to seaweed and iodine, and question-
able issues. (Any one of these is a correct answer.)
CHAPTER 12
1 . Spot treatments target specific areas commonly of concern to the cli-
ent and can draw the client into other treatments.
2. Basically hand and foot spa treatments are the same as spa manicures
and pedicures but withoutthe soaking and nail care steps.
3. The main goals of cellulite treatments are to stimulate circulation to
allow the body to help rid itself of the fat and toxins.
4. A back treatment is great to remove dead cell buildup, extract come-
dones and pustules, and condition the skin.
5 . A spa facial is basically the same as a regular facial but with an added
concentration on exfoliation,seaweed, and aromatherapy.
6. A sauna provides dry heat at about 175 degrees F and is an option for
those who can't take warm moist heat. It induces perspiration and in-
creases circulation.
CHAPTER 13
I . Retailing is critical to solidify the salon treatment, addeffectiveness to
treatment goals, and to hold the client to the salon.
2. Professional soaps should be less drying, more hydrating,
and normally
gentler than regular grocerystore soaps.
3. Bath additives provide a mini salon treatment at home in the tub.
4. A sponge must be sold with a shower gel
5. Lotions tend to be thinner and more readily absorbed by the skin than
creams which are richer and more emollient for the drier skins and
climates.
6. A hit-and-miss approachto cellulite treatmentat home will not be effec-
tive. Products and routinesmust be done as directed for effectiveness.
7. Specialty products are important to lock that client into the spa, and
they offera targeted, specific goal-minded approachto treatment. They
add an extra dimension of effectiveness.
8. No, a person can't live without water.
9. A therapeutic water modality for use at home might be showers and
baths, compresses, and even drinking water.
IO. Hot showers relax and sedate whereas cold showers excite, invigorate,
and energize.
11, Since sittingin a bathis so conducive to product absorption, bath addi-
tives are excellentcarriers of nutrients for the body.
12. Water will help increase the metabolism and elimination, and this in
turn helps the body flush toxins from the system.
BiGliography
Abehsera, Michel.The Healing Clay.New York: Carol Publishing Group, Swan
House Publishing, 1979.
Buchman, Dian Dincin.The Complete Book of Water Therapy. New Canaan, Conn.:
Keats Publishing Inc., 1994.
Campion, Margaret Reid. Adult Hydrotherapy, A Practical Approach. Oxford and
London: Heinemann Medical Books, 1990.
”_ ,Hydrotherapy in Pediatrics. Oxford and London: Heinemann Medical
Books, 1985.
Carr, N .G. and B.A. Whitton.The Biology of Blue-Green Algae. Berkeley, Calif.:
University of California Press, 1973.
Chapman, V.J. Seaweeds and Their Uses. London: Methuen & Company, 1970.
(In US., B a r n e s a n d Noble Inc.)
Croutier, Alev Lytle.Taking The Waters, Spirit*Art*Sensuality.New York: Abbeville
Press Publishers, 1992.
Dextreit, Raymond. Our Earth, Our
Cure. New York: Swan House Publishing,
1974, 1979.
Encyclopedia Britannica, vols. 1,5,8. Chicago: E. B. William Benton Publish-
ers, 1984.
Encyclopedia Britannica, Medical and Health Annual. Chicago: E. B. William
Benton Publishers, 1991.
Goldberg, Audrey Githa. Massage for the Beauty Therapist. London: William
Heinemann Ltd., 1972.
Crilli, Peter. The Japanese Bath. Tokyo: Kodansha International Ltd., 1985.
Hennessy, T. Hartley. Sun, Wind, and Rain, A History and Explanation of Hydro-
therapy. New York: Vantage Press, 1973.
Horay, Patrick, and David Harp.Hot Water Therapy. Oakland, Calif.: New Har-
binger Publications Inc., 1991.
Kneipp, Sebastian. The Kneipp Cure. New York: The Nature Publishing Co.,
1949.
Lavabre, Marcel. Aromatherapy Workbook. Rochester, Vt ,: Healing Arts Press,
1990.
Lehmann, JustusF. Therapeutic Heat and Cold. Baltimore: Williams and Wilkins,
1990.
Rose, J e a n n e .The Aromatherapy Book, Applications and Inhalations. Berkeley, Ca-
lif.: North Atlantic Books, 1992.
I89
Round, F.E. The Biology of the Algae. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1965.
Ryman, Daniele. The Aromatherapy HandGooh. Essex, England: Daniel Co. Ltd.,
1984.
Ryrie, Charles Caldwell. The Ryrie Study Bible, New American Standard Version.
Chicago: Moody Press, 1978.
Srnalley, Gary and John Trent.
The Gift of the Blessing. Nashville: Thomas Nelson
Publishers, 1993.
Smith, Gilbert M.The Fresh Water Algae of the United States. New York: McGraw
Hill Book Co., 1950.
Thrash, Agatha and Calvin. Home Remedies. Seale. Ala.: Thrash Publications,
1981.
Tiffany, Lewis Hanford and William Deering. Algae, The Grass of Many Waters.
Springfield, Ill.: Charles C. Thomas, 1938, 1958.
Tisserand, Robert. The Art of Aromatherapy. New York: Inner Traditions Ltd.,
1977.
Williams, Ruth. The Road to Radiant Health. Kennewisk, Wash.: Health Books,
1994.
Winter, Ruth. A Consumer‘s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients. New York: Crown
Publishers, 1989.
Further Reading
Among the many books and resources used for reference, the following
may be of particular interest to the reader.
1. Kneipp, Sebastian.The Kneipp Cure. The Nature Publishing Co. 1949.
2. C h a p m a n , V. 1. Seaweeds and Their Uses. Methuen & Company, London
England. (in USA Barnes and Noble), 1970.
3 . Lavabre, Marcel. Aromatherapy Workbook. Healing Arts Press, Rochester,
Vermont, 1990.
4. Tisserand, Robert. The Art of Aromatherapy. Inner Traditions Ltd., New
York, 1977.
5 . Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations. North At-
lantic Books, Berkeley, California. 1992.
6. Campion, Margaret Reid. Adult Hydrotherapy, A Practical Approach. Heine-
mann Medical Books, Oxford and London, England,1990.
7. Croutier, Alev Lytle.Taking The Waters, Spirit*Art*Sensuality.Abbeville Press
Publishers, New York. 1992.
8. Hess, Shelley. SalonOvations' Guide to Aromatherapy. Milady Publishing
Company, New York, 1994.
9. Michalun, Natalia. Milady's Skin Care and Cosmetic IngredientsDictionary.
Milady Publishing Company, New York, 1994.
191
A maceration, 63
Absolutes, 63 psychology and the senseof smell,
Acetabularia, 140 65
Additives, bath, for home care, 177 solvent extraction,63
Agar-agar, 141 history, 60-61
AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) dissolving modern development,61
exfoliants, 94-95, 116-117 the treatment and after, 71 -72
Air and water jets, baths and bathing, tub treatments,30-31
24-25 Ascophyllum nodosum, 29, 141
Alcohol, contraindications to, 72 Asthma, client with, 168
Algae. plants thatgrow and thrive in Astringent oils, 69
seawater or fresh water Attire for technicians, 81-82
economic importanceof, 140
how they function, 138-139 B
pigments in, 139- 142 Back treatments, 103- 104, 164- 166
chlorophyta-green, 140 seaweed treatments,148- 149
cyanophyta-blue-green, 140- 141 Balnea, communal part of Roman baths,
phaetophyta-brown, 141 15
-
rhodophyta-red. 141 142 Balneotherapy, use of baths for
uses in esthetics, 142- 143 beauty and therapeutic purposes,
Algotherapy, use of algae for 17
beautification and therapeutic Bar soap, use of. 35
purposes, 17 Basil (herb). 66,69
Allergic reactions Bath additives, home care and,177
to essential oils,71 Bath salts or bubble baths, for home
to iodine, 29 -
care, 171 172
Baths and bathing
reducing, 13
Amenity spas, 3 air and water jets, 24-25
Amma massage, 50 aromatherapy tub treatments,30-31
Analgesic oils, 69 cleaning the tub and room, 32
Antiacne oils, 69 history of
Antibacterial oils, 69 America, 16
Antidepressant oils,69 the Greeks and Romans, 15
Antiinflammatory oils, 69 Japan, 16
Antistress oils,69 Middle East and India. 15-16
-
Antistress treatments, 101 102, 162- 163 hydrotherapy tub treatments,31 -32
Apple cider vinegar, 177 alternating warm and cold,24
Aqua drainage, 26 contraindications to, 20
Arcier. Micheline, 61 length of time, 23-24
Aromatherapy, insertion of natural positive effects of, 19-20
herbs or essences in baths for rules of the tub,21-22
therapeutic effects,17,60-86 temperatures of water, 22-23
essential oils,61-72 terminology, 17-18
carrier oils,70 thalassotherapy tub treatments,
combinations, 69-71 29-30
common oils and their purposes, tub treatments,28-32
66-69 end of treatment, 32
contraindications, 71 type of clientele, 19
enfleurage, 63 underwater massage, 25-28
expression,63 contraindications to,28
how they work,64 procedure, 27-28
192
Clossary/lndex I93
use of the hose, 26 C technical analysis form, 77f

See also Home care Caffeinated drinks, 181 Clove (flower bud), 67, 69, 71,177
Bath towels and sheets. See Towels Calcium, 122 Coffee consumption, 181
Bed setup Calcium bentonites, 122. 135 Cold bath, home care and, 178
for dry room, 83-84 Calmlng oils, 69 Cold compresses, 179
foil, 82 Calothrix, 140 Cold treatments, 169
plastic, 83 Camphor (wood),66, 69,70, 71 Colloidal, substance in suspension
for wet room, 83 Carotenes, 139 that fails to settleout and diffracts
Bed warmer, electric, 83, 156 Carrageenin, 141 a beam of light, 119
Benzoin (gum),66 Carrier oils, for dilution of essential Compresses, homecare and, 179- 180
Bergamot (fruit),66, 69, 70 oils, 70 Conditioning and moisturizing, home
BHA (beta hydroxy acid) peels, 94, Cedarwood (wood), 66,69 care and, 173-174
116-117 Cellulite treatments Contouring oils, 30
Biblical references home care and, 175, 181 Contraindications to treatments,28
to anointing oils. 61 Scotch hose, 45 alcohol, 72
to water, 8-9 seaweed treatments, 149-151 antistress. 163
Birch (bark),66, 69 spot treatments,100- 101, 160- 162 back, 166
Blood, action of essential oils on, 64 underwater massage, 27 bust, 164
Blood circulation, and water therapy, Ceramium, 142 cellulite, 162
12- 13 Chamomile (flower),66-67, 69, 70, 177 exfoliation, 118
Blood pressure, drop in, 19. 23, 36 teas, 181 facial. 167
Body treatments and treatment Charts. See Forms and charts full-body treatments, 90-91, 148
development, 87- 107 Chemical peel, 94, 109 hand/arm/foot/leg, 159
combination oils for, 70 Chlorella, 30, 141 hydrotherapy tub treatments, 20
combming treatments with Chloride, 122 manicure/pedicure, 158
hydrotherapy, 105-107 Chlorite, 121 mud treatments
concepts, 87-88 Chlorophyll, 139 manicure/pedicure, 133
contraindications to, 90-91 Chlorophyta-green,pigment in mud baths, 135
detoxification, 90 algae, 140 scalp treatment, 134
exfoliation. 89, 92-95 Chondrus, 29, 141 for skin, 129
body polish, 93-94. 112- 114 Cinnamon (herb),67, 69, 71,102 scalp, 160
dry brush, 92 teas, 181 seaweed treatments
enzyme and AHA dissolving Clary sage (herb), 67,69, 70 back treatments, 149
exfoliants, 94-95 Claustrophobia, 168,169 bust, 153
salt glow. 92-93 Clay cellulite, 151
full-body treatments, 89-90 colors, 123 manicure/pedicure, 153
body massage, 97-98 illite/chlorite. 121 muscle, 152
faclal. 98 kaolinite (kaolin), 121 use of essential oils, 71
herbal body wrap, 96-97 minerals and the body, 122 Cool compresses, 179
mud mask, 95.96f properties of, 120- 121 Cool to cold water therapy, 13
paraffin body wrap, 96-97 smectites, 121 - 122 alternating warm and cold
seaweed mask, 95 types of, 120 treatments, 24
tannindbronzing. 98 See also Mud treatments Corallina. 29, 142
goals of, 88-89 Cleaning, the tub and room, 32 Corn oil, 70
scheduling, IO7 Cleopatra, usage of essential oils, 60 Creams, for home care
skin conditioning, 89 Client preparation, 73-79 firming, 175
spot treatments,90, 98- 104 consultation chart moisturizing, 174
antistress, 101- 102 analysis and concernsfrom "Cure" towns, 2
back treatment/facial, 103-104 technician standpoint, 75-79 Cyanophyta-blue-green,pigment in
cellulite, 100- 101 form, 75f algae, 140-141
facial, 104 questions from a client Cypress (fruit),67, 69, 70, 71
firming bust, 102-103 standpoint, 74-75
hand and foot,99- 100 for mud treatments, 125 D
manicure/pedicure, 99 personal evaluation questionnaire, Darwin, Erasmus, 9
scalp and neck, 100 Day spas, 3-6
76f
treatment times, 105t proper draping, caution and and resort spa, differences
Bronzing, 98 attention to, 74 between, 5
Bust firming record of treatments form, 78f type of client, 6
products, for home care, 175 removal of clothes, overcomlng Dead Sea
treatments, 102-103.162-163 shyness of client, 73-74, 76 healing powers of, 16
seaweed, 153 for seaweed treatments, 145 salt, I l l
Deep pore cleanse, 166 solvent extraction, 63 G

Deep tissue massage, 98 Eucalyptus [leaves).67, 69 Galen, 8
Destination spas, 3 Exfoliation, process to remove dead Galien jet. See Scotch hose
Detoxification, products and treat- cells to bring a more vibrant skin Galvanic disincrustation. 167
ments that facilitate the body's to the surface,89,92-95, 108- 118 Gattefosse. Maurice, 61
natural elimination process, 90 AHA and BHA exfoliants, 94-95, Geranium [herb),67, 69, 70
Diatoms, 139,142 116- 1I7 Gift of the Blessing. 48
Diocletian Bath, 15 body polish, 93-94 Glacial mud, 95
Disincrustation. galvanic, 167 contraindications to, 118 Glands, action of essential oils on, 64
Disinfectants, 84 dry brush, 92 Glycolic acid, 94, 116
Distillation, hot steam passing enzyme exfoliants, 94-95, 114-116 Golgi tendon organ, responds to
through plant material causing mechanical exfoliants provide information on the muscle,
essential oil to separate,62-63 body polish, 112-114 5151
Draping of client, 74 dry brush, 109-111 Grapefruit [fruit),67, 69, 70, 71
Drinking salt, 111-112 Grapeseed oil, 70
other liquids, 181 sanitation and, I l l Greeks
water, IO, 180- 181 overexfoliation, effects of, 109 bathing and, 15
Dry brush reasons for, 108- 109 water use and, 7
exfoliation treatment, 92, 109- I l l salt glow, 92-93
Dry room, massage or treatment Expression, cold pressing oils outof
room, normally not tiled or drained fruit or plant, 63
H
for water,80-81 Halimeda, 140
bed setup for, 83-84 Hand and foot treatments, 99- 100,
F 158- I59
Dulse. 142 Face, combination oils for, 70 Hazelnut oil, 70
Facials, 98, 104. 166- 167 Headaches, 91
E mud treatments, 135 relieving, 13
Edema, reduction of, 12. 13 seaweed treatments, 154 Hepburn. Katherine, 12
Effleurage massage, gentle stroking Fango (mud),95, 168 Herbal bath, insertion of natural
manipulation used in all body "Fat farms", 2-3 herbs or essences in baths for
treatments for exfoliation and Fennel [seeds),67, 70 therapeutic effects, 17
application of products, 53-58 Floor coverings, 80 Herbal body wrap, 96-97
order of massage, 54 Floyer, lohn. 9 Herbal teas, 181
procedure, 55-58 Foot and hand baths, home care and, Herbal therapeutics, 9
Egyptians, usage of essential oils, 60 179 Hindu rites, water and, 16
Electric bed warmer, 83, 156 Forms and charts Hippocrates, 49
Elizabeth Arden's Main Chance. 2 personal evaluation questionnaire, 76f usage of essential oils, 60
Endorphins, neurochemical of the record of treatments form, 78f History of Cold Bathing Both Ancient and
body, 65 technical analysis form, 77f Modern. 9
Enfleurage, old method of processing Fossil algae, 139 Home care, 170- 182
essential oils, 63 Frankincense (gum),67, 69, 70 bath salts or bubble baths, 171- 172
Enkephalins, neurochemical of the Franklin, Benjamin. 9 bust products, 175
body, 65 Free nerve endings, pain receptors cellulite. 175
Enzyme dissolving exfoliants, 94-95, from branches of nerves, 51 conditioning and moisturizing,
114- 116 Friction bath/shower, home care and, 173- 174
Epsom salts. 177 I78 creams
Erythema, reddening of the skin, 110 Fucus, 29, 30, 141 firming, 175
Essential oils, extracts from the Full-body care, treatments and moisturizing, 174
essences of plants products designed to help the milks/lotions. 173
carrier oils. 70 entire body, 89-90 muscle pain relief, 175
combinations, 69-71 body massage, 97-98 oils, 174
for aromatherapy baths, 30-31 facial, 98 scrubs, 172-173
common oils and their purposes, herbal body wrap, 96-97 serums/ampoules. 174-175
66-69 mud mask, 95,96f shower gels, 171
contraindications. 71 mud treatments, 125- 129 soaps, 170-171
distillation of, 62-63 paraffin body wrap, 96-97 specialty and spot treatments, 174-175
enfleurage, 63 seaweed, 145-148 water for home use
expression, 63 mask, 95 bath additives, 177
how they work, 64 tannlng/bronzing, 98 cellulite treatment, 181
maceration, 63 "Fuller'searth", 122 cold bath/shower, 178
psychology and the sense of smell, 65 compresses, 179- 180
Glossaryllndex 195
drinking other liqulds, 181 Kneipp, Sebastian. 9, IO, I I use of the hose, 26
drinking water, 180-181 Kneipp therapy, 28,168,178 See also Touch
foot and hand baths, 179 Kovitz. Leah, 94, 112 Meissner‘s corpuscles, receptors
frlction bath/shower, 178 Krause’s corpuscles, heat receptors for light touch, located in the
hot bath, 177 located in upper area of the dermis, 51
hot shower, 177- 178 dermis, 51 Melissa (herb),68, 69, 70
hydrotherapy, 176 Kreiger. Dolores, 48 Mezger, Dr., 49-50
target showers, 179 Kur spas, 22 Milady’s Standard Textbook for Professional
water treading, 178 Estheticians. 50
Homeostasis, balance and harmony L Milks/lotions. for home care, 173
of all systems, 20 Lactic acid, 94 Minerals in clay, 122
Hot bath, home care and, 177 Laminaria, 30, 141 Misogi, Japanese religious rite of
Hot compresses, 179 Lavender (flower),67, 69, 70,177 bathmg, 16
Hot shower, home careand, 177- 178 Lemon (fruit), 67, 69, 70, 71 Modesty, protecting, 163
Hot treatments Lemongrass (herb), 67,69 Moisturizing oils. 30, 69
paraffin, 168 Lichen moss, 140 Moor mud, 95
sauna, 168 Light-headedness, 23. 91 Movement and exercise, in water, 13
thermal molding masks, 168- 169 Ling, Peter Henry, 49 Mud treatments, 119-136
Hot tub, tub normally used in Lip0 amino acids mud,97 clay
private homes or “tub clubs”,17-18 Lipophilic, attracted to oil, 64 colors, 123
Hydroculator, machine for heating Living water, newlife through the drinking of, 121
linen or muslin sheets, 96 spirit after salvation: water illite/chlorite, 121
Hydrotherapy, water-based containing sunlight and oxygen, 8 kaolinite (kaolin), 121
equipment and conceptsof Lotions, for home care, 173 minerals and the body, 122
treatment, 4, 17 Lymph properties of, 120-121
combination treatments, 106- 107 action of essential oils on, 64 smectites. 121 - 122
home care and, 176 drainage, manual, 26, 98 types of, 120
modalities, blending of, 46 working with, 123-124
treatments, 31 -32 client preparation, 125
alternating warm and cold, 24
M facials, 135
contraindications to, 19-20, 20 Maceration, parts of plants satu- full-body. 125- 129
length of time, 23-24 rated in hot fat and extracted,63 manicure/pedicure, 131- 133
positive effects of, 19-20 Macrocystis. 30. 141 mud baths, 134-135
rules of the tub,21 -22 Magnesium, 122 mud mask body treatment, 95,96f
temperatures of water, 22-23 Magnesium aluminum silicate (MAS),122 scalp treatment, 133-134
Hydrotherapy tub, tub designedwith Main Chance, 2 skin cleansing back treatment,
multiple air and water jets, 18 Manicure, 99, 156-158 129- 131
Hyperkeratinization, 108 mud treatments, 131- 133 supplies and equipment needed, 124
seaweed treatments, 152-153 table setup, 125
Manual lymph drainage (MLD). 26,98
I Marine-based clays, 120
types of muds, 95
Illite. 121 Vichy shower with, 42
MAS (magnesium aluminum silicate), 122 Muscles
Iodine. 122 Masks
allergies to, 29 achy/sore
mud mask, 95,96f home care and, 175
in seaweed, 140 seaweed mask, 95
Irish moss, 141 seaweed treatments for, 151- 152
thermal molding, 168- 169 action of essential oils on, 64
Iron. 122 Massage
Itching of sunburn, relief of, 177 Mylar foil. wrapping of client, 82
client consultation prlor to Myrrh (gum),68, 69
treatment, 52
J contraindications to, 52-53
N
jacuzzi bath, whirlpool tub effects of, 51-52
manufactured by the lacuzzi effleurage massage, 53-58 Neck treatments, 100
Company, 16 order of massage, 54 Nelman Marcus Greenhouse, 2
lasmine (flower),62, 67, 69, 70, 71 performance of, in relation to Nereocystis, 141
Jojobaoil, 70 body treatments, 54-55 Neroli (flower),68, 69, 70, 71
lones, Elisabeth, 61 procedure, 55-58 Nervous system, action of essential oils
Juniper (fruit), 67, 69, 70 full-body treatments, 97-98 on, 64
types of, 98 Noelle. 4
K underwater, 25-28 Normal bath, can be used for all
contraindications to, 28 aspects of water treatment, 18
Kaolinite (kaolin),121, 135 Nostoc, 140
Kelp. See Algae procedure, 27-28
0 Resorcinol, 109 pigments in, 139-142

Oatmeal baths, 177 Resort spas, 3 chlorophyta-green, 140
Oils Rest times, after treatment, 23 cyanophyta-blue-green, 140-141
for home care, 174 Retin A, 116 phaetophyta-brown. 141
See also Essential oils Rhodophyta-red. pigment in algae, rhodophyta-red. 141- 142
Olive oil. 70 141- 142 uses in esthetics, 142-143
Onsen. hot springs resort of japan. 16 Rhodymenia. 142 back treatment, 148- 149
Oregano (herb),68, 69 Rivularia, 140 baths, 29-30
Overexfoliation, effects of, 109 Romans with salt glow and Vichy shower,
bathing and, 15 42
usage of essential oils, 60 bust treatments, 153
P water use and, 8 cellulite treatment, 149- 151
Pacinian corpuscle, encapsulated Room setup facial treatments, 154
endings normally located between bed setup full-body seaweed treatment, 145-148
the dermis and subcutaneous for dry room, 83-84 localized treatment for achy/sore
layers that are receptors for foil, 82 muscles, 151- 152
deeper pressure,51 plastic, 83 manicure/pedicure treatments, 152-
Pain relief, muscles, 175 for wet room, 83 153
Palm kernel oil, 70 dry room, 80-81 mask, full-body treatment, 95
Papaya enzymes, 94, 114 room ambiance, 81 -82 paraffin seaweed, 97
Parafango mud, 114.123.168 sheets, 85 the sea,benefits from, 137-138
Paraffin treatments, 168 towels, 85 thalassotherapy
body wrap, 96-97 wet room, 79-80 bath treatments, 154-155
and clay, 123 work area setup and supplies, 84 body treatment, 144- 145
seaweed, 97 Rose (flower).68, 69,70, 71 Selenium, 122
Parlsian Body Polish. 94, 112 Rosemary (herb),68, 69, 70,102,177 Sento, public bath in japan. 16
Patchouli (herb),68, 69,70 Rose oil, 62 Serums/ampoules. for home care,
Pedicures, 99, 156-158 Rub-off peels, 114 174- 175
mud treatments, 133 Ruffini endings, heat receptors,51 Sesame oil, 70
seaweed treatments, 152-153 Rules, of the tub, 21 -22 Shaving, avoiding, 94
Peels, 94, 109,114.116-117 Sheets. 85
Pelagophycus, 141 Shiatsu massage, 50, 98
Peppermint (herb),68, 69, 70 Sage (herb),68, 69, 70 Shower gels, for home care, 171
teas, 181 Salicylic acid, 94, 114, 116 Showers, 34-47
Perfumes, 62 Salt glow, special saltmixed with oil blending hydrotherapy modalities, 46
Phaetophyta-brown,pigment in or liquid soap for exfoliation cold, 36
algae, 141 treatment, 92-93, 111-112 regular shower, 34-36
Photosynthesis, 139 Vichy shower with, 41 -42 price, 37
Phycobilins, 139 Sandalwood (wood), 68,69,70, 71 purposes of, 34-35
Pine (wood),68, 69, 70, 71, 102. 177 Sanitation. exfoliation and, I l l rules of, 35-36
Plastic, wrapping of client, 83 Sanitation procedures, showers, 46 treatments, 36-37
Potassium, 122 Sargassum, 141 rinsing, 36
Pregnancy Sauna, 43.168 sanitation procedures, 46
contraindications to treatments,91, Scalp treatments, 100, 159-160 Scotch hose, 44-46
135. 148 mud treatments, 133-134 price, 46
massage during, 53 Scheduling program, 107 steam shower, 42-44
and use of essential oils, 71 Scotch hose, targets a strong stream price, 44
Preparation of client. See Client of water at specificbody areas, to Swiss shower, 37-38
preparation increase circulation and price, 38
Price, Shirley,61 elimination and break up fat Vichy shower, 38-42
Priessnitz, Vincent, 9, IO deposits, 44-46 with mud or seaweed, 42
Proteolytic enzymes, 114 price, 46 price, 42
Pulse-rate measurement, of client, 22 Scrubs, for home care, 172-173 rules of, 40
Sea with salt glow, 41 -42
Q benefits from, 137-138 with salt glow/mud or seaweed, 42
Quinton. Rene. 137 salt, I l l sample treatment,41
Seaweed treatments, 137- 155 treatment by itself, 41
warm-ups and rinses, 36
R algae
Shyness of client, overcoming, 73-74,
Reflexology, 98 economic importance of, 140
how they function, 138- 139 76, 163
Relaxmg oils. 30 Silica, 139
Remy Laure Moor Mud, 95
Glossaryllndex 197
Skin Sweet orange (flower),68, 69,71 price, 42

action of essential oils on, 64 Swiss shower, surrounds the bather rules of, 40
combination oils for, 70 with water pressuretherapy, 37-38 with salt glow, 41 -42
conditioning, 89 combination treatments, 106 with salt glow/mud or seaweed, 42
mud treatments, 129-131 price, 38 sample treatment, 41
sensitivity of treatment by itself,41
to heat, 169 T
to scrubs, 173 Table setup W
touch and, 50-51 for mud treatments, 125 Warm compresses, 179
Skin lesion/cancer, charting, 77 for seaweed treatments, 145 Warm to hot water therapy. 12
Smalley, Gary, 48 Taking [he Waters. 15 alternating warm and cold
Smectites. 121- 122 Tanning, 98 treatments, 24
Smell, sense of, and psychology, 65 Target showers, home care and, 179 Water and water therapy
Soaps, for home care, 170- 171 Taylor, Eve, 61 drinking, 180- 181
Soil-based clays, 120 TCA (Trichloraceticacid) peel,94 history of water use
Solvent extraction, essences of Tea tree (wood), 68,69,70 Biblical references, 8-9
plants dissolved in solvent and Telanglectasla. 168,169 the Greeks, 7
extracted, 63 use of essential oils and, 71 modern beginnings, 9- IO
Soothing oils, 30 Temperatures, of water, for tub the Romans, 8
Spas treatments, 22-23 uses of water
American, 2-6 Thalassotherapy, use of seawater or blood clrculation, 12- 13
types of, 3 seaweed for beautification and cool to cold water, 13
the day spa, 3-6 therapeutic purposes, 17,135 for drinking, IO
and resort spa, differences treatments, 29-30, 154- 155 by itself, 10-11
between, 5 See also Seaweed treatments movement and exercise in water,
type of client, 6 Thermae, Roman baths, 15 13
derivation of word "spa",2 Thermal molding masks, 168-169 for therapy, IO- I I , 12
evolution of, 2 Thyme (herb),68, 69, 70, 102 warm to hot water, 12
reasons for, 1 Time, length of, for treatments, 23-24, See also Home care; Hydrotherapy
Spearmint (herb),68, 69 1051 Water jets, 24-25
Specialty and spot treatments,for home Tisserand. Robert, 61 Water treading, home care and, 178
care, 174-175 Touch Waxing, avoiding, 94
Spirulina, 29, 30 history, 49-50 Wet room, room constructed so that
Spirulina. 141 mechanism of, 48-49 it can get wetwithout damaging
Spot treatment, to work on a and the skin, 50-51 the room, 79-80
portion of the body, 90,98- 104 See also Massage bed setup for, 83
antistress, 101- 102. 162- 163 Towels, 35-36, 85 Whirlpool bath, type of bath in
back treatment/facial. 103- 104. Toxlns. elimination of, 12 which air or water jets cause a
164- 166 Treatments. See specific treatments "whirling"effect in the water, 16
bust firming, 102- 103, 163-164 Trent, lohn. 48 Wintergreen (leaves).69
cellulite, 100- 101, 160-162 Trichloracetic acid (TCA) peel, 94, 109 Work area setup and supplies,84
facial, 104.166-167 Wrapping of client, 82-83
hand/arm, foot/leg, 90,99- 100
manicure/pedicure. 99, 156- 158
U
scalp and neck, 100, 159-160 Ulva,140 X
Steam shower, any environment of Uniforms, 81-82 Xanthophylls, 139
moist heat/steam capability, 42-44
combination treatments, 106 V Y
price, 44 Valnet. lean. 61 Ylang ylang (flower),69, 70, 71
Stimulating oils, 30, 69 Vasoconstriction/vasodilation.of Yuami. lapanese religious rite of
Stoneworts, 139 capillaries, 12 bathing, 16
Sunburn, relief of itching, 177 Vichy shower, a horizontal rod with
Sunflower oil, 70 holes toallow water raining or Z
Supplies, work area, 84-85 cascading from above bed or Zinc, 122
Swedish System of Massage, 49,98 table, 4, 38-42
Sweet almond oil, 70 combination treatments, 106
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- MILADY

Africa Australia Canada Denmark Japan Mexico New Zealand Philippines

Cover Design: Suzanne McCarron

COPYRIGHT 0 1996 Delmar.MiladyisanimprintofDelmar,adivisionofThomsonLearning.Thomson

Printed in the United States of America

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

CHAPTER 1. History from Europe to America . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

CHAPTER 2 . Water and WaterTherapy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

CHAPTER 3 . Baths and Bathing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Who Should Not TakeHydrotherapyBaths-Contraindications .... 20

CHAPTER4 . Showers .................................... 34

CHAPTER 5. Touch and Massage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

CHAPTER 6 . Introduction to Aromatherapy ............... 60

CHAPTER 7. Client Preparation and Room Setup . . . . . . . . . 73

CHAPTER 8. Body Treatments and

CHAPTER 9 . Exfoliation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108

CHAPTER 10. Mud Treatments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119

CHAPTER 11. SeaweedTreatments ...................... 137

SEAWEED TREATMENTS ............................. 145

CHAPTER 12. Other Treatments ......................... 156

CHAPTER 13. HomeCave .................................. 170

Answers to Review Questions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183

EVOLUTION OF THE SPA

would serve as somewhat of a guideline for the development of a day spa

BASIC ADVANTAGESOF A SPA STAY

BASIC ADVANTAGES OF A DAY SPA

Review 1 . What is the origin of the term spa?

HISTORY OF WATER USE

BiGlical References Let’snotforget that the Bible has morethanfifty-tworeferences to water in

Another more modernlink to the primitive churchwas the famous J o h n

Another well-known physician in England at the time, Dr. Erasmus Darwin,

WATER AND ITS USES

heating, cooling, and frictionpurposes. We use water-based treatments to

Wuter By Itself Whether fresh

Water Therapy Water

WARM TO HOT WATER

COOL TO COLD WATER

America has very little to contribute to bathing from a historicalstandpoint.

WHO TAKES THE BATHS?

WHAT HYDROTHERAPY TUB TREATMENTS DO

8. Under no circumstance is the client to be left entirely alone during a

WATER TEMPERATURES IN DEGREES F

not getting overheated or light-headed or developing a headache. In any

SUMMARY OF TUB TEMPERATURE

WARM UP: 10 minutes, jets alone

4. Providing the technician has been trained in manual lymph drainage,

5. I f the abdominal area is to be done, great care must be taken. It is nor-

Underwater Massage In additiontothecontraindications for tub treatments in general,the activ-

Seaweed baths increase metabolism and blood circulation, activatethe ex-

25,000 different types.

Spirulina is rich in vitamins and beta carotene and is effective to reduce

Laminaria is rich in minerals and amino acids to increase metabolism

RELAXING: lavender, clary sage, melissa, ylang ylang,

End of the As stated already, if theclient

CLEANING THE TUB ANDROOM

treatment no other modality will offer. The physiological benefits of hydro-

1 How do weknow that the Romans were famous for bathing?

THE REGULAR SHOWER

the same ratio as mentioned earlier. Temperatures must be comfort-

SAMPLE TREATMENTWITH VICHY SHOWER