1.

List of Fiber Testing Machine Used in Textile:

There are different types of testing machines that are used during fiber testing in the textile
industry have presented in the following:

1. Saw Gin Portable Machine:

It is used to separate seeds from cotton fiber. After the ginning process, cotton fiber with leaf, trash,
dust, etc. is collected, and cottonseed with a little clean lint is collected in another container.

2. Roller Gin Lab-type Machine:

Lab roller cotton ginning is applied for cotton research labs. It is also used for the small production
of small and medium cotton factories.

3. Circular Locus Tester:

A circular locus tester is used to determine the surface deterioration and quality of different types of
fabrics (wool, chemical fiber, mixed, kitted, and woven fabrics).

4. Fiber Fineness & Composition & Content Analyser:

It is used to determine the fineness of the fiber. It is also used to analyze the content and surface
feature of textile fiber.

5. Photo Electricity Fiber Length Tester:

Photoelectricity fiber length tester is used to measure the length of cotton fiber by using photo-
electricity technology. It is mainly used in the cotton inspection and purchasing for cotton spinning
factories.

6. Single Yarn Strength Tester:

Single yarn strength tester is used to determine the breaking strength and elongation of single cotton,
wool, and other yarns up to 50 N.

7. Trash Analyzer Machine:

This type of analyzer machine is used to analyze the trash, lint, and dust content within a sample of
raw cotton fiber up to 100 grams.

8. Single Fiber Strength Tester:

Electronic single fiber strength tester is perfect for testing the tensile strength and elongation of
chemical fiber, cotton fiber, wool fiber, ramie fiber, silk fiber, glass fiber, fine metallic thread, etc.

9. Saw Gin Floor-type Machine:

This type of ginning machine is used to separate seeds from cotton fiber. Cotton fiber with trash,
leaf, and dust is collected after the ginning process, and cottonseed with a little clean lint is collected
in another container.

10. Infrared Lab Dyeing Machine:

It is perfect for dyeing all types of fibers and substrates. This type of dyeing machine produces exact
laboratory sample dyeing with level and reproducible results and accommodates up to 24 positions
with a low liquor ratio for synthetic fibers and natural fibers.

2. Importance of fineness:
1. Lower irregularity of yarn:
With a greater number of fibres in the cross-section the basic irregularity is reduced. The finer
the fibre the higher the number and the lower the irregularity. Fine fibre gives more regular yarn
than the coarse fibre.

2. Uniformity of count:
A fine fibre can be spun to finer than coarse fibre measurement of fineness. In other words the
finer the fibre, the higher the yarn count will be.

3. Uniformity of strength:
In a given cross-sectional area, if a given count is spun a fine and coarse fibre, a more and a
stronger yarn will result from the fine fibre because of being large no. of finer fibre.

4. Uniform of fabric characteristics:

As fine fibre gives more uniform yarn, so it gives good quality fabric with uniform property.

5. Less twist:
The finer the fibre the greater the total surfaces area available for inter fibre contact and
consequently, less twist is needed to provide the necessary cohesion.

6. Spinning performance:
The fineness of the fibre affects several mechanical properties and therefore influences the
behaviour of the fibre during processing.

7. Good appearance:
The finer yarn produced by finer fibre is good appearance.

8. Less neps:
In the finer yarn, less neps present.

3. English(Cotton count) to Denier:

From count conversion system,
Indirect to Direct,
4. Stiffness:
 It is a fabric property to describe its resistance against deformation.
 Resistance to bending.
 Incase of yarn, subjected to a tensile force or pull, stiffness is the ability to resist
elongation.
 A stiff fabric cannot bend as a limp one.
 With regard to circular bending of textile, resistance to multidirectional bending.
 It can be measured by finding out the bending length or flexural rigidity or bending
modulus.
 The unit of stiffness is gm/denier per elongation.

5. It is stated in the literature that woven fabric stiffness is influenced by the yarn types, fiber
content, number of warp and weft yarns, linear density of warp and weft yarns, intersection
points of warp and weft yarns and movement capability of the yarns in the weave.
In assessing the fabric, they used sensory characteristics such as surface friction, bending
stiffness, compression, thickness and small-scale extension and shear, all of which play a role
in determining handle and garment making-up and appearance during wear.
Key design factors that can influence fabric drape include2 fiber stiffness, yarn flexural
rigidity, fabric thickness, fabric weight, fabric count and yarn count.

6. The Shirley stiffness tester:

Basic principle: A rectangular strip of fabric, 6 inch ¿ 1 inch, is mounted on a horizontal platform in
such a way that it over laps, like a cantilever and bends downwards. From the unsupported length (l)
and the bending angle (θ), the following values are determined -

 Bending length (c)

 Flexural rigidity(G)
 Bending Modulus(q)

The stiffness can be measured

in terms of bending length, flexural rigidity, or bending modules. The theory with bending length is
described by using following formula

C=lf1(θ)

Where, C=bending length.

L=unsupported fabric length or length of the over hanging fabric.

θ=Bending length

7. Color fastness of a dyed material:

Color fastness, in normal sense, refers to the resistance of color of a dyed or printed textile to various
types of influences (e.g. water, light rubbing etc.) to which they are normally exposed in textile
manufacturing and in practical sense. So we can say color fastness is the resistance of the color to
fade or bleed by some agencies like washing, light, water, chlorine, perspiration, ironing etc.
The stability of the color of a dyeing/ printing, or its fastness, is one of its most important properties.
A fast dyeing will show no significant visible fading during the useful or printed material may lose
its color for the following-
  Due to decomposition of dye molecules in the fibre (as in light fading)
 Due to their removal (bleeding) into the external medium (as in washing)
 Due to reaction with acid, alkali or perspiration(as in perspiration fastness)
 Due to friction of outer surface (as in rubbing)
Color fastness is usually assessed separately wit respect to-
1. Change in color of the specimen being tested, which color is fading.
2. Staining of undyed material which is in contact with specimen during , that is color
bleeding.

8. Relation between Twist & Yarn strength/ Effect of twist in yarn strength:

The strength verses twist curve can be divided into two section:

1) A low twist region in which the effect of cohesion out-weights that of obliquity, giving rise
to an increase in strength slow at first up to the point at which fibres may just begin to break
and increasing rapidly as more and more fibres break.
2) A high twist region in which further increase in cohesion no longer produces and increase in
strength since the majority of the fibres break, while the increasing inclination of the fibres
causes the strength to fall. The division betn the two regions corresponds to the twist at
which the maxm strength is relaised. At this twist the greater proportion of the fibres break.

Optimum Point
Strength

Breaking
Point

Twist

09.
Warp reel and balance method:
By this standard method, of count testing, the count of any type of a yarn can be calculated.
Principle: The count of yarn is numerical expression which indicates coarseness or fineness of yarn.
There are two system of determining yarn count,

i) Indirect system,

ii) Direct system,

Where, N = The yarn number or count.
 W = The weight of the sample.

w = The unit of weight of weight of the system.

L = The length of weight of the sample.

= The unit of length of the system.

Apparatus: Warp reel, Balance, Weight box

Specimen: Cotton yarns in hank form.

Working principle:

 At first warp reel was adjusted accordingly and yarn was

passed from the cone through the guides.

 The length of the sample was measured by the warp reel counter.
 In case of cotton, the circumference of warp reel is 1yd and required yarn is 120 yards.
Again in case of jute, warp reel circumference is 2.5yds and required yarn is 300 yds.
 In case of cotton ,warp reel is driven by motor and in jute warp reel is manually operated. In
case of cotton warp stops automatically when the specified amount of yarn is wound on it.
 Then the sample is weighted by balance.
 The operation is repeated 12 to 16 times and taking their means, count is calculated in direct
system.

10. Textile testing is the process of measuring the properties

and performance of textile materials—textile testing includes physical and chemical testing
of raw materials to finished products.
Textile testing assists textile production in selecting various types of fibers and their transformation
into yarn, fabric, and finished goods such as clothing. The materials are evaluated at multiple stages
of production to qualify, compare, and standardize to meet the norms of different production stages
and consumer requirements. The testing of textiles is carried out in laboratories and in the field using
simple to sophisticated testing methods and equipment. In textile testing, many analytical
instruments and online monitoring systems are utilized. Textile testing adds value to different
agencies involved in the textile supply chain, from production, distribution and consumption

11. Importance of Textile Testing:

Textile testing is extremely important as it ensures quality and can eliminate any problems
ahead of manufacturing. By textile testing we can easily detect the faults of machinery and
materials during test of textiles. Following are the common importance of textile testing:

1. To ensure the product quality

2. To check the quality and suitability of textile raw material
3. To control the manufacturing process
4. To investigate the faulty materials
5. For customer satisfaction and retention
6. Good reputation (brand image) among consumers
7. For research and development
8. For product failure analysis
9. For process development
10. For new product development
11. For product testing
12. For conformity with government regulations and specifications
13. To assess the quality of final product

Importance of textile testing is undeniable because it importantly supports the personnel involved in
the textile supply chain, from the textile fiber to the end product. Persons involved in textiles
should have knowledge of production as well as statistics. This helps them to interpret data
efficiently.

The testing of textile products aids persons involved in the running of the production line. During
testing, the discrepancy of the product, for example, its strength, maturity, waste percentage (for
fibers), aerial density, and weave design (for fabrics), is properly measured. Thus the selection of the
proper raw material is an important factor. Standards of control should be maintained to reduce
waste, minimize price, and so on. Faulty machine parts or improper maintenance of the machines
can be easily detected with the help of textile testing. Improved, less costly, and faster protocols can
be developed by researchers with the aid of testing. The efficiency and quality of the product can
also be enhanced with the help of regular and periodic testing. Customer satisfaction and loyalty can
also be won by producing according to customer specification in good time. In short, testing is an
essential pivot to the whole textile product supply chain.

12.
The test can easily distinguish between fibres. The test identifies the natural fibres more easily as
compared to man-made ones. Synthetic fibres are very similar in appearance and the increase in the
number of varieties makes it a little tough to distinguish the fibres even under a microscope.
Synthetic fibre is produced in lab with controlled condition
Difference Between Product Control and Process Control:

SL No. Process Control Product Control

Proper utilization of raw materials and Proper utilization of auxiliaries and raw
01 auxiliaries has done here. materials and hasn’t been done here.
Process control is the producer and
02 manufacturer oriented. It is consumer-oriented.
By process control, we can analyze
the process study, time
study, costing, and way of cost It does not provide any information’s about
03 minimization. process time and production time.
04 Process control is independent. It is dependent.
In-process control, it is possible to
take necessary action for the
correction during production After production, it is not possible to take
05 processes. recovery of the defects or faults.

13.WHAT IS PROCESS CONTROL?

Process control is the ability to monitor and adjust a process to give a desired output. It is used in
industry to maintain quality and improve performance.

An example of a simple process that is controlled is keeping the temperature of a room at a certain
temperature using a heater and a thermostat. When the temperature of the room is too low, the
thermostat will turn on a heating source until the temperature reaches the desired level at which point
the heater is turned off. As the room cools, this process repeats itself to keep the room at the desired
set point. In this example, the set point is the temperature setting on the thermostat and the heater
turns on and off to maintain temperature. Hence, this simplest form of process control is called

on/off or deadband control. This type of process has a deadband which is the difference between the
temperature where the heater is turned on and when it reaches the set point. This deadband is what
keeps the heater from being turned on and off too often.

What is product control in textile?

The control which is used to decrease defective items within different lots of produced good is
known as Product control. Process control is applied during production process.

14.
The exact utilization of all the raw materials and auxiliaries needed to achieve targeted quality
products is known as process control.
In the textile industry, we have used different types of processes from the growing stage to the
ultimate stage of a finished product. Those processes are spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing,
finishing, etc. These processes have to control for achieving the desired quality product. In the
below, I have presented various changing parameters for each process of a product.
Yarn Manufacturing Process:
1. In the case of the yarn manufacturing process, end breakage should be controlled by
controlling weight per lap length, sliver length, roving length of yarn length.
2. The weaving process should be controlled by the excessive breakage of warp and weft yarn,
EPI, and design.
3. The dyeing process should be controlled by M: L, PH, Temp, and Pressure.
4. The finishing process is controlled by softness.
In Process Control the proportion of defective items in the production process is to be minimized and
it is achieved through the technique of control charts. Product Control means that controlling the
quality of the product by critical examination through sampling

16.
The main aim of moisture management fabric is to make the skin feel dry. In orderto achieve this,
humidity should be evaporated and transferred to theatmosphere as soon as possible.
The analysis of moisture content is essential to the food industry to control for the quality of the
food, as well as the shelf life, in addition to helping food manufacture companies adhere to legal and
labeling requirements.

17. Relation between Moisture Regain and Moisture Content:

Moisture regain is defined as the weight of water in a material as a percentage of the oven dry
weight.
Let, Oven dry weight of a material =D
Weight of water in this material =W

W
R= x100
Moisture regain, D (1)
Moisture Content: Moisture content is defined as the weight of water in a material express as a
percentage of the total weight of the material

W
C= x100
Moisture Content, W+D (2)

From equation (1) we get

W
D= x100
R

Putting the value of D in equation (2) we get.

W
C x100
(W/R) x 100
W+

W
C=
W(1+100/R)

100
= 1  100 / R

100R

R  100 (3)

Again from equation (3) we get.

RC+100C
R
100

R  C  RC /100

R  RC /100  C

R(1-C/100)=C

C
R
1-C/100

100C
R=
100-C ___________(4)

Equation (3) and (4) express the relation between Moisture regain and Moisture content .
18. Standard Moisture Regain and Moisture Content:

Material  M.R %
Cotton 8.5

Silk 11
Nylon 4
Polyester 0.4
Jute 13.75
Wool fabric 16
Wool fibre 16
Wool yarn 18.25

19. Count in different system:

i) Tex: Count in the Tex system is the weight in grams of 1000m or 1 km of yarn.

ii) Denier: The number or count in the denier system is the weight in grams of 9000m or 9 km of
yarn.

iii) English system: The yarn number or count is defined as the number of hanks 840 yds per
pound.
If one pound of yarn contain 20 hanks of 840 yds, then in English system count will be 20 Ne.
It denoted by Ne.

25. Count in different system:

i) Tex: Count in the Tex system is the weight in grams of 1000m or 1 km of yarn.

ii) Denier: The number or count in the denier system is the weight in grams of 9000m or 9 km of
yarn.

iii) Pounds per spindle(Jute system): The yarn number or count in the pound per spindle system is
the weight in pounds of 14400 yards of yarns of yarn.
 iv) English system: The yarn number or count is defined as the number of hanks 840 yds per
pound.
If one pound of yarn contain 20 hanks of 840 yds, then in English system count will be 20 Ne.
It denoted by Ne.

v) Metric: It is defined as the no of hanks (1000m) per kg eg. if one kg of yarn contain 40 hanks
of 1000m, then in metric system count will be 40 Nm. It is denoted by Nm.

26. If one pound of yarn contain 30 hanks of 840 yds, then in English system count will be 30
Ne. It denoted by Ne.

27. Beesleys balance:

Scope: When a cotton yarn is supplied in short length or removed from fabric, the count of yarn can
be measured by a special type of balance is called Beeseley’s balance.

Principle:

 The instrument consists of simple beam with a small hook at one end and a pointer at other
end.
 The beam is initially leveled to bring the pointer opposite to datum line.
 A standard weight is hanged in a notch on the beam arm on the pointer side of the pivot.
 A template is used to cut short fibres of yarn. These short length yarns are added on hook
until the pointer is opposite to the datum line.
 The yarn count is the number of fibres required to balance.

Working principle:

 Firstly the selection of template i.e. short(half) cotton, long( ) cotton. This selection
depends upon available of the sample.
 The yarn is cut by using template and blade.
 The cut yarn is hung at the hook and counted their number.
  The whole, operation was repeated for 10 times and their mean gives the result.
Use: To measure the count of yarn of a small piece of fabric this balance can be used.

28.

29. Perspiration fastness: The garments which come into contact with the body where perspiration is heavy
(like neck, under arm etc) may suffer from serious local discoloration. Fastness to perspiration is the
resistance to color of textile against the discoloration effect of acidic or alkaline perspiration.

Two artificial perspiration solutions are made as follows-

Chemicals Solution Solution

A B
-histadine monohydrochloride 0.5gm 0.5gm
mono-hydrater
Sodium chloride 5.0gm 5.0gm
Di-sodium hydrogen orthophosphate 2.5gm 2.2gm
Distilled water 1000ml 1000ml
PH (adjust with NaOH) 8 5.8

Procedure:

 Sample size (10cm x 4cm) is taken.

 The sample (10cm x 4cm) is placed between two undyed fabric pieces (5cm x 4cm).
 One of the two pieces of undyed sample, if available, one should be a multifibre fabric. This
fabric has different fibres side by side. One of the compositions from multi-fibres should be considered
as the same fabric of the tested sample and other would be indicated as below-
For test method 1, 2, and 3-

If the first piece is The second piece will be

Cotton Wool
Wool Cotton
Silk Wool
Linen Wool
Viscose Wool
Cellulose Acetate Viscose
Polyamide Wool or viscose
Polyester Wool or cotton
Acrylic Wool or cotton
 Three pieces are held together by stitching round edges, leaving 5cm x 4cm exposed.
 Now the composite specimen is wetted in perspiration solution A and is kept for 30mins at room
temperature.
 The liquor is poured off (sample should not squeezed).
  The specimen is then placed between two glass plate(acrylic glass plate→11.5cm x 6.0cm x 0.15cm)
and 4.5kg(10 lb) pressure is applied by and weight for 4hrs at oven(Incubator) temperature(37 0 C
20C).
 Then the undyed and specimens are separated, then dried in air at temperature 600C.
 The procedure is repeated with solution B .
 The change of color and staining are then assessed with grey scales for each test.
 Maximum 10 samples can testes at a time.

30. If you sweat, spend time in a humid area, spill a liquid on yourself or wash your shirt, it
wrinkles. It does this because the hydrogen links in the cotton react to water, causing the fabric to
bend out of shape and form wrinkles in the cloth.

31. Quality Controlled by 3΄Ms :

Quality control is governed by three M΄s.

Men,

Machine and

Materials.

Men: Top management  Activities of Coordination , administration, Technical Supervision.

80% responsibility  Top management.

Knowledge about demand of market, statistic, development of technical.

Quality controller  Control the testing laboratory, rum and maintain the machine.

Machine: Machine should be selected on basis of skill ness of technical or operator.

May select more refined and complex machine for highly trained technicians or simpler and more
easily maintainable m/c for poor skilled technicians.

Materials: The selection of raw material is a key factor in success or failure of the product.
Quality cycle (Dewing cycle):

Quality  Failure   Cost of Production   Volume 

 Invest   Return

Expansion

Employment

Service to Society

32. Twist factor or twist multiplier:

In indirect system, the yarn diameter(d) is proportional to the reciprocal of the square root of the
count.

Thus,

But we know,

Here k is known as twist factor or twist multiplier. This twist multiplier is directly proportional to the
tangent of twist angle.
But in case of direct system, Twist factor is the product of turns per meter and square root of yarn
count.

33. Relation betn Twist angle and Yarn count:

The figure represents an idealized element of a yarn, showing one fibre on the yarn surface
following a helical path and making one turn round the yarn axis.

The twist angle  is the angle betn a tangent to the helix

formed by the fibre and yarn axis. By ‘unrolling’ the
surface layer it is seen that the fibre becomes the
hypotenuse of a right-angled triangle.

Let the yarn diameter be d inches and let be the length

of yarn occupied by one complete turn of twist.

Then,

And

There fore,

In indirect system the yarn diameter is proportional to the reciprocal of the square root of the count.

Thus,

From (iii) & (iv),

Here k = is termed the twist factor or twist multiplier which is directly proportional to the tangent of
the twist angle.

In direct system, the form of relationship bet n per unit length, Twist factor and count will be
changed. The yarn dia will now be directly proportional to the square root of the yarn number. i.e.
34.

Relative humidity: The ratio of the actual vapour pressure to the saturated vapour pressure at the
same temp express as a percentage is defined as relative Humidity.

Actual vapour pressure

Relative humidity= Saturated Vapour pressure x100%

Alternative definition for relative Humidity is the ratio of the absolute of the air to that of air
saturated with water vapour at the same temp and pressure. The ratio be express as a percentage.
At the same temp & pressure Absolute humidity of air
Relative Humidity= x100%
Air Saturated with water vapour

Air permeability: The air permeability of a fabric is the volume of air measured in cubic
centimeters passed per second through 1 cm2 of the fabric at a pressure of 1 cm of water.

35. Maturity ratio:

Maturity ratio of a method of numerically expressing the maturity of a sample of cotton fibre. It is
the ratio of actual degree of wall thickening to a standard degree of wall thickening.

Actual degree of cell wall thickening

So, Maturity ratio = Standard degree of cell wall thickening
In other words, Maturity ratio is the ratio which expresses the actual fibre wt. per centimeter H, in
relation to a standard fibre wt. per centimeter Hs.

H Actual fibre wt . per cm .

H
So, Maturity ratio = S = Standard fibre wt. per cm .

Micronaire value:

The term micronaire value is now a widely used expression and where as originally the figure
 meant fibre wt. in micrograms per inch.

The micronaire value regarded as indication of maturity and fineness. The units are commonly

ignored.

The higher micronaire value of the fibre, the fibre regarded coarser.

Micronaire value plays a vital role during mixing of different grades of fibres for Yarn

preparation. The higher micronaire value difference of fibre, higher yarn irregularity.

The fibres are classified in different grades on the basis of micronaire value.

Micronaire value Classification of fibre

or below very fine

3.0 to 3.9 fine

4.0 to 4.9 average

5.0 to 5.9 coarse

6.0 to above very coarse

36. The Shirley stiffness tester:

Basic principle: A rectangular strip of fabric, 6 inch 1 inch, is mounted on a horizontal
platform in such a way that it over laps, like a cantilever and bends downwards. From the
unsupported length (l) and the bending angle (θ), the following values are determined -
 Bending length (c)
 Flexural rigidity(G)
 Bending Modulus(q)

The stiffness can be

measured in terms of bending length, flexural rigidity, or bending modules. The theory with
bending length is described by using following formula
C=lf1(θ)
 Where, C=bending length.
L=unsupported fabric length or length of the over hanging fabric.
θ=Bending length

Working procedure:
1. A test specimen pushed forward.
is cut to size 2. The strip of fabric will commence to droop over the
(6”  1”) with edge of the platform and the movement of the
the aid of the template ( i.e. the scale) and the fabric is continued
template & until tip of the specimen viewed in the mirror cut both
then both index lines.
template and 3. The bending length can immediately be read off from
specimen are the scale mark opposite a zero line engraved on the
transferred to side of the plat form.
the platform 4. Each specimen is tested four times , at each end and
with the fabric again with the strip turned over.
underneath. 5. Mean values for the bending length in warp and weft

Both are slowly directions can then be calculated from-

37. Drape meter: The drape meter is developed method of measuring coefficient, in which
the warp and weft way characteristics interact and produce the type of graceful folding.
Working principle:

1. A circular specimen about 10˝ diameter is supported on a circular disk about 5˝ diameter
and the unsupported area drape over the edge as fig(a)
2. The fabric will assume some folded configuration and the shape of the projected area
will not be circular but some thing like the shape as fig (b)
3. The drape is then measured in terms of drape co-efficient F
considering areas. Let, AD= the area of the specimen
Ad=the area of the supporting disk and
As=The actual projected area of the
specimen
F is the ratio of projected area of the draped specimen to its undraped area, after deduction of
the area of the supporting disk.
A - Ad
Thus F= s
AD -Ad
Drape: Drape is the property of fabric which indicates the ability of a fabric to assume a
graceful appearance in use. It is the opposite characteristically feature of stiffness of the fabric.
Drape coefficient: It is the ratio of projected area of the draped specimen to its undraped
area ,after deduction of the area of the supporting disk.

Thus, F= As - Ad
AD -Ad
38. Difference between crease resistance and crease recovery.

Crease resistance Crease recovery

1. Crease resistance is such a 1. Crease recovery is a fabric
property of fabric that property that indicates the
resists fabric from ability of fabric to go back
creasing. to its original position
after
creasing.
2. Crease resistance is 2. Crease recovery is the
generally measured by measure of crease
bending elasticity. resistance specified
quantitatively in terms of
crease recovery
angle.
3. Crease resistance comes 3. Crease recovery comes
into into
play before the fabric is play after the fabric has
creased. been creased.
4. Crease resistance resists the 4. By crease recovery
stretching and property the stretched or
compression compressed
of molecular chain of polymer chain comes back to
fibre
 polymer. normal position.

39. Ordinary twist tester(fibre straightened method):

Constriction:

 In this method, a ordinary twist tester is used by which the twist of 1 yarn can be
determined.
 This instrument has two jaws betn which 1 yarn is set.
 It has a revoluation counter which counts the number of untwisting turns of the yarns.
 For counting the no of turns required for the yarns untwisting there is a revoulion counter
in the instrument.
 Again a lens is used to watch the number of revoluation accurately.

Procedure:

 At first the yarn is set between two jaws.

 Then a weight is hung at one end of the yarn for a fixed tension.
 The yarn is led through the fixed jaw, over a guide pulley.
 After closing the fixed jaw the turns are removed by rotating the handle in the appropriate
direction.
 The end point may be judged by eye with the help of a small lens, but greater presision can
be obtained by the use of a dissecting needle.
 When most of the twist is removed, the needle is pushed through the fibres close to the fixed
jaw and gently moved towards the rotating jaw.
 Any residual twist turns upto the latter and removed by a final adjustment.
 The no of turns removed is read from the revoluation counter and recorded.
 From the results of fifty tests the mean and the co-efficient of variation are then calculated.

40. Factors affecting the color fastness properties:

 The molecular structure (e.g.) of a dye molecule. If the dye molecule is larger in size, it
 will be tightly entrapped inside the inter-polymer chain space of a fiber. Thus the fastness

will be better.

 The manner in which the dye is bonded to the fibre or the physical form present.

 The amount of dye present in the fibre i.e. depth of shade. A deep shade will be less fast

than a pale or light shade.

 The chemical nature of the fibre. For example, cellulosic fibres dyed with reactive or vat

dyes will show good fastness properties. Protein fibres dyed with acid mordant and

reactive dyes will achieve good fastness properties and so on. That is to say compatibility

of dye with the fibre is very important.

 The presence of other chemicals in the material.

 The actual conditions prevailing during exposure.

41. Wash Fastness : Wash fastness is the fastness to laundering of the colour of dyed or printed
textile mtls. Wash fastness is rated in number from 1 to 5 as in table:
Wash fastness rating.
1 very poor wash fastness.
2 Poor.
3 Moderate.
3–4 Fair.
4 Good
4–5 Very good.
5 excellent.
If the cloth is dyed to be used for making garments, the dye should posses good washing
fastness. Other wise staining of garments with stripped dye stuff will occur during washing of
many garments, together. Measurement of washing fastness:
Reagent Apparatus and mtls:
:
 I ECE  Wash wheel with a
detergent. II Na2 thermostatically controlled
Co3 water bath and rotating
III Distilled water speed of 40 2 r.p.m.
 Stainless steel container.
 Stainless steel
ball(Dia🡒0.6 cm wt🡒1gm)
 SDC multi fibre.
 Temp (0 - 100ºC)
 Dryer /woven.
 Sewing m/c.
 Grey scale for change.
 Grey scale for staining.
 Colour matching cabinet .

Testing procedure:
  Cut dyed specimen size 10 X 4 cm.
 Cut multi fibre size 10 cm X 4 cm.
 Align test specimen and multi fibre &sew them together to form a composite specimen.
 The composite specimen is treated as following table.

Test Temp Time Steel ball Reagent Liquor ratio

Soap 5g/L+
ISO – 3 60ºC 3o min 0 50:1
Soda 5 g/L
Soap 5g/L+
ISO – 4 95ºC 30 min 10 50:1
Soda 2 g/L
 After treating the samples are rinsed are rinsed in cold distilled water twice and then
for 10 mins in cold running tap water.
 Then the samples is squeezed and the stitching is removed from 3 sides leaving one
short side 4 cm sewed.
 Then it is dried at maxm 60ºC temp.
Now the change in colour of uncovered portion is assessed with grey
scale no. 2 Thus wash fastness rating is obtained.

42. Multifibre is one of the most common types of adjacent fabrics, made of yarns of
various generic kinds of fibres, each of which forms a strip of at least 15mm width
providing even thickness of fabric.

Or Multifibre fabric can be used as an adjacent fabric in many color fastness tests, such as
fastness to sweat, water or washing, to evaluate the color transfer of textile materials. It is a
standardised fabric, made up of 6 bands of different fibres: acetate, cotton, nylon, polyester,
acrylic and wool.
The change in color of the fabric swatch is measured using a grey scale.

43.
44. Bursting strength: This tear strength basically used for knitted and non woven
fabric. It is the uniformly distributed force over a given area applied to the fabric surface
which is needed to break.
There are mainly two types of bursting strength test-
1. Hydraulic burst (Mullen type)
2. Ball burst (required special attachment in the tester)
1. Hydraulic Bursting Tester:

 The fabrics without well defined directions such as felts and the recently
developed fibre fabrics may be conveniently tested on a bursting tester.
 The pressure in a liquid is exerted in all directions and advantage is taken of this
phenomenon in the hydraulic bursting tester.

 The specimen S is clamped by a ring over a thin flexible rubber diaphragm D,

which is itself clamped over a circular hole in the upper face of a reservoir.
 The liquid used may be water or glycerin.
 The hydraulic pressure is increased, by valves or screw driven position and the
diaphragm distends taking with it the specimen,
 At some point the fabric bursts, the pressure being indicated by the gauge G.
 Since the rubber diaphragm requires a certain pressure to stretch it, corrections
may be made either by doing a blank test i.e. noting the pressure required to
distend the diaphragm the same amount without the presence of fabric. Or where
an autographic device is used, pressure-distensions curves for the diaphragm
gives the corrections directly.
 The height to which the specimen bulges enables the extension percentage to be
calculated if required. If h is the height and c is the radius of specimen and
assuming the bulge is in the form of a spherical cap then,

45.
  Grab Test:
 At first we take
specimen 4 ”x6 ”.
 Then the specimen is
marked by a pencil from
the 1.5 “ edge of the
specimen.
 The two jaws are fixed
on both side of the
specimen from 1” edge.
 One jaw is fixed another
jaws moveable.
 Then the movable jaws
store to mono outwards
till the specimen is tear
out.