BLOW ROOM :

Parameter testing before bale management.

 Length of fiber
 Strength of fiber
 Macromere value
 Color grade
 Amount of trash
 Moisture
 Maturity

What is the perfect tension for high quality fiber?

High quality fiber tension capability is so much important for spinning process because of high quality this fiber
provide high quality garments product. The capability of high quality fiber is from 6% to 7%.

What is short fiber?

Especially for cotton fiber “Less than 12.7 mm cotton fiber is called short fiber”

Cleaning amount in blow room?

Blow room is a place where its play a vital role to removing the trash from the fiber. The amount of trash removing
from fiber is from 60% to 65 %.

Working Procedure in blow room.

 Opening and feeding

 Beating and cleaning
 Blending and mixing
 Transforming
 Lap forming

Different machinery in blow room.

 Blending and mixing machinery

 Opening and cleaning machinery
 Object machinery
Opening machine

Opening machine is the first step of blow room where the opening machine opens the bale and makes it into fiber.

Variable reason are manipulates opening machine.

 Raw material
 Size of raw material
 Type of feeding
 Type of bitter
 Speed of bitter
 Other reason

What is the production of blender per hour?

The production of Blender machine per hour is 600 kg.

Different type of spinning process.

 Fiction spinning
 Warp spinning
 False twist spinning
 Electrostatic spinning
 Disk spinning
 Air jet spinning
 Adhesive process
 Self twist spinning
 Felting process

What is filament?

Long and Continuous fiber is called filament. Basically filament is made from man made or synthetic fiber. But
filament also gets from natural fiber like silk.
List of Equipments Used in a Spinning Lab

Introduction:
The global spinning industry is currently undergoing big changes, not least towards the use of more modem and
faster spinning machinery and computer system. These high speed machines require much cleaner raw material, and
therefore they constantly challenge the testing machinery developers to provide faster and more accurate testers and
quality controllers. The machineries described in this report are mainly related with cotton spinning testing lab.
Objects:

1. To know about different types of machine used in spinning lab.

2. To know about the specification of different types of textile testing machine.
3. To know about their function.
4. To know about the special purpose of different machine.
5. To know about the machines, which are necessary to develop a good quality control lab (Spg ).

Quality assurance testing equipments in spinning mill:

Serial Machine name Origin Testing material
No.

01 USTER HVI SWITZERLAND FIBRE

SPECTRUM

02 USTER AFIS PRO SWITZERLAND SLIVER TO

ROVING

03 USTER TESTER- 5 SWITZERLAND SLIVER TO

ROVING

04 USTER TENSOJET-4 SWITZERLAND YARN

05 ZEIGLE LEA GERMANY YARN

STRENGTH TESTER

06 ZEIGLE WRAP GERMANY YARN

REEL(L232)

07 ZEIGLE WRAP GERMANY SIVER TO

BLOCK(L212) ROVING

Machine No-01

Specification of machine:

 Machine name-USTER HVI SPECTRUM

 Company-Zellweger USTER
 Country – Switzerland
 Software – USTER HVI 1000
Functions of HVI:
The USTER® HVI 1000 measures the most important cotton fiber properties for cotton classing purposes (and
high-throughput requirements for spinning mills.) These are length, uniformity, short fiber index, micronaire,
maturity index, strength, elongation, color and trash, and moisture content.

Features of HVI:
The following features are provided with the USTER® HVI 1000:

Main Equipment: Length/Strength, Moisture Content, Micronaire and Color/Trash Instruments.

Computer Software: The USTER® HVI 1000 is a menu driven design that allows quick access and selection of
testing, setup, calibration, and data management. These features include:

 Windows XP operating system with icon-based software

 Simple user interface
 Error messages for troubleshooting
 Network capabilities

Computer Hardware: Computer system with 2.8 GHz PC with 512 MB RAM, P&P Sound Card, DVD-R drive,
1.44 MB (3.5-inch) Floppy Disk

Drive, 60 GB or better hard drive, and Pentium P4 processor

 Keyboard with Integrated Touchpad

 17” High Resolution Flat Panel LCD Monitor with Integrated Sound Bar
 Balance
 Printer
 Integrated Bar Code Scanner

Barcode Reader (M700)

 UPS – Uninterrupted Power Supply device

 UV Module
 NEP Module


Additional features: Safety interlocks to prevent injury from un-authorized entry to the instrument

 Relative humidity and temperature probe

 Moisture measurement
 Easily accessible Lint Waste Box with two separate access doors
 Computer System easily removed for service
 Configuration can be straight line configuration or “L” configuration
 Industrial brushed stainless steel top and work surfaces
 Single point adjustable brush pressure
 Integrated air enclosure around balance to eliminate influences of air turbulence
 Password protected operational software
 Complete Operator Manual included
Laboratory Temperature: These specifications are for the ambient conditions referenced below. If the air line will
be subjected to temperatures that could promote condensation, a water filter attached to the air line inside the lab is
recommended to remove any condensation that may occur.

Ambient Conditions: According to ISO 139, the following ambient conditions must be maintained in the laboratory
in order to get repeatable and comparable test results:

 Temperature: 20±2°C; 65 °F to 72 °F
 Relative Humidity: 65±2%

For consistent test results, fiber samples should be conditioned in the laboratory environment with the above-
mentioned ambient conditions for 24 hours. Samples should be laid out openly in the laboratory, and taken out of
plastic bags, in order for the cotton to fully condition to the environment.

Test parameters of HVI: there are three modules in USTER HVI-

 MIC module(MIC and maturity

 Length and strength module (Upper Half Mean Length, Uniformity Index, Short Fiber Index, strength,
elongation)
 Color and trash module (Rd, +b, color grade, trash grade, trash area, trash count, moisture)

By the HVI 100% cotton samples in the form of bale or opened and cleaned material (card mat) are measured.

Principles of fiber testing using HVI:

Sample preparation: The fibro gram method is preferred while preparing the sample for fiber length estimation. The
sample has to be presented to the measuring zone by clamping the fibers at a random catch point. Here the
fibrosampler is used. The test specimen obtained using the fibro sampler/comb combination is a beard of fibers with
individual fibers projecting to different length from the clamping point. In HVI, the strength testing is also done on
the same beard of fibers with individual fibers projecting to different lengths from the clamping point. In HVI,
strength testing is also done on the same beard of fibers prepared for length measurement. While using the low
volume instrument -fibro stelo for strength measurement, the sampling is done on the separate fiber bundles, of
which 15 mm long is prepared after remounting the short fibers by combing. For micronaire testing, a sample of
cotton weighing approximately 8.5-11.5 grams is used. For color testing, random mass of fibers sufficient to cover
the test window is used for measurement.

 Sample weight for MIC measurement-8.5 gm (range 8.5-11.5 gm)

 Sample weight for other test- 30-40 gm to cover the test window

Measurements and Calculations:

Micronaire: Micronaire Reading

Measuring principle: Measured by relating airflow resistance to the specific surface of fibers.

The micronaire module of HVI uses the airflow method to estimate the fineness value of cotton. A sample known
weight is compressed in a cylinder to known volume and subjected to an air current at a known pressure. The rate of
airflow through this porous plug of fiber is taken to be a measure of the fineness of cotton. The number of fibers in a
given weight of cotton will be more in the case of finer fibers than in the case of coarser fibers. If air is blown
through these samples, the plug containing finer fibers will be found to offer a greater resistance than the plug with
coarser fibers. This is due to the fact that the total surface area in the case of the former will be greater than the latter
and hence the drag on the air flowing past will be more. This differentiating factor is made use of to indirectly
measure the fineness of cotton.

The instrument operates as follows. The chamber lid is closed; a piston at the chamber bottom compresses the fiber
to a fixed and known volume. A regulated stream of air is then forced through the sample and the pressure drop
across the sample is applied to a differential pressure transducer. The transducer outputs an analog signal voltage
proportional to the pressure drop. This analogue voltage is applied to an analogue to digital converter, which outputs
a digital signal representing the voltage. Cotton with known fineness values is tested and the voltages obtained are
used to obtain the calibration curve, which is used for all subsequent testing to display the cotton fineness.

The fineness is expressed in the form of a parameter called the micronaire value, which is defined as the weight of
one inch of the fiber in micrograms. Maturity of cotton also influences the micronaire value.
Micronaire values Fibre grade

Less than 3.0 Very fine

3.0 to 3.6 Fine

3.7 to 4.7 Medium

4.8 to 5.4 Coarse

5.5 to higher Very coarse

Maturity measurement: Maturity Index (Mat)

Measuring principle: Calculated using a sophisticated algorithm based on several HVI™ measurements. Maturity
indicates the degree of cell wall thickness within a cotton sample. The HVI SPECTRUM Maturity index correlates
very well to the AFIS Maturity Ratio and the reference method of microscopy (cross-sectional analysis).

Maturity Index Description

Below 0.75 Uncommon

0.75 to 0.85 Immature

0.86 to 0.95 Mature

Above 0.95 Very mature

Length: Upper Half Mean Length, Uniformity Index, Short Fiber Index

Measuring principle: Measured optically in a tapered fiber beard which is automatically prepared, carded, and
brushed.

Upper Half Mean Length (Len):

The by weight measurement of the Upper Half Mean Length is calculated from the Fibrogram. A fiber beard of
randomly clamped fibers is scanned optically across its length and the Fibrogram is drive from it. The Upper Half
Mean Length corresponds to the classer’s staple length as well as to the AFIS Upper Quartile length by weight.
Please note that a length range is assigned in inches for each length staple or code. The ranges calculated in
millimeters do not line up exactly due to the conversion calculation. However, inches or 32nds are mainly used for
staple length determination in the international cotton tread and are therefore binding.

Fibre UHM (inches) UHM (mm) Code (32nds)

length(Inches)

<13/16 <0.79 <20.1

13/16 .80-0.85 20.1-21.6

7/8 0.90 – 0.92 22.9-23.4 29

15/16 0.93 – 0.95 23.6 – 24.1 30

31/32 0.96-0.98 24.4 – 24.9 31

1 0.99-1.01 25.1 – 25.8 32

1 1/32 1.02-1.04 25.9 – 26.4 33

1 1/16 1.05-1.07 26.7 – 27.2 34

1 3/32 1.08-1.10 27.3 – 27.9 35

1 1/8 1.11-1.13 28.2 – 28.7 36

1 5/32 1.14-1.17 29.0 – 29.7 37

1 3/16 1.18-1.20 30.0 – 30.5 38

1 7/32 1.21-1.23 30.7 – 31.2 39

1¼ 1.24-1.26 31.5 – 32.0 40

1 9/32 1.27-1.29 32.3 – 32.8 41

1 5/16 1.30- 1.32 33.0 – 33.5 42

1 11/32 1.33 -1.35 33.8 – 34.3 43

1 3/8 >1.36 >34.5 44

Uniformity Index (Unf):

The uniformity index expresses the ratio of the mean length to the upper half mean length. It is an indication of the
distribution of fiber length within the Fibrogram.
Uniformity index = Mean Length/upper half mean length.

Uniformity Index Description

Below 77 Very low

77 to 80 Low

81 to 84 Medium

85 to 87 High

87 and higher Very high

Short Fiber Index (SFI):

The short fiber index is a value that is calculated using a sophisticated algorithm. The Fibrogram is mathematically
converted to a length distribution curve. The SIF is an indication of the amount of fibers (%) that are less to than 0.5
inch (12.7mm) in length. It correlates very well to the AFIS short fiber content by weight (SFC).

Short Fiber Index Description

Below 6 Very low

6 to 9 Low

10 to 13 Medium

14 to 17 High

18 and higher Very high

Strength (Strength, Elongation):

Measuring principle: Strength is measured physically by clamping a fiber bundle between 2 pairs of clamps at
known distance. The second pair of clamps pulls away from the first pair at a constant speed until the fiber bundle
breaks. The distance it travels, extending the fiber bundle before breakage, is reported as elongation. The bundle
strength is breaking strength of the cotton fibers in grams per tex. The fineness is calculated from the micronaire
value. The fiber beard is broken at a continuous deformation rate (CRE= Constant Rate of Extension) and with a
1/8-inch distance between the clamps.

Strength Description

Less than 21 Very weak

22 to 24 Weak

25 to 27 Medium

28 to 30 Strong

31 and higher Very strong

Elongation (Elg):
Elongation is a measure of the elastic behavior of the fibers in the bundle. The fibers are clamped in the bundle with
a 1/8 inch distance between the clamps. The first pair of clamps is stationary and the back pair of clamps is pulled
away at a constant rate. The distance the fibers extend before they break is recorded and expressed as a percentage
elongation.

Elongation Description

Less than 5.0 Very low

5.0 to 5.8 Low

5.9 to 6.7 Medium

6.8 to 7.6 High

7.7 and higher Very high

Moisture (Moist)
Measuring principle: Moisture content of the cotton sample at the time of testing, using conductive moisture probe.
Moisture is the percentage of water that is present in the sample being tested. Moisture in the cotton varies with
time, temperature, and humidity to which the samples have been exposed. Consistent moisture is necessary to
maintain HVI SPECTRUM test result on the same level of accuracy and precision. The best level precision and
accuracy are obtained when sample moisture has an average of 6.5% - 8%.

Moisture Description

Below 4.5 Very low

4.5 to 6.5 Low

6.5 to 8.0 Medium

8.0 to 10.0 High

10.0 and higher Very high

Color: Rd (Whiteness), +b (Yellowness), Color Grade

Measuring principle:

Measured optically by different color filters, converted to USDA Upland or Pima Color Grades or regional
customized color chart.

Reflectance (Rd): This value expresses the whiteness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibers. It
corresponds to the reflectance (Rd) represented in the Nickerson/hunter color chart. It is used in conjunction with
yellowness (+b) to determine the instrument-measured color grade of cotton.
Yellowness (+b): This value expresses the yellowness of the light that that is reflected by the cotton fibers. The
yellowness (+b) of the sample is determined by using a yellow fiber. It correspond to the +b value represented in the
Nickerson/Hunter color chart. The yellowness is used in conjunction with the reflectance (Rd) value to determine
the instrument-measured color grade of the cotton.

Color Grade (C Grade): The color grade of a cotton sample is determined in a two filter colorimeter. This
objective method was developed by Nickerson and Hunter in the early 1940s to check the USDA cotton grade
standards. Today, it is intended to completely replace the subjective visual grade standards. Today, it is intended to
completely replace the subjected visual grade determined by the cotton classer.

Trash: Particle Count, % Surface Area Covered by Trash, Trash Code

Measuring principle: Measured optically by utilizing a digital camera, and converted to USDA trash grades or
customized regional trash standards.

Trash Count (Tr cnt): Trash is measured on the same glass window as the color measurement. The sample is
illuminated form underneath the glass window, and a black and white CCD camera analyzes the changes in pixels.
All particles that cover the glass window are counted one by one and the results are expressed in trash particle
counts per surface area.

Trash Area (Tr Area): The area that is covered by a trash particle is measured at the same time the particle is
counted. The area that is covered by single particle is summed up with all areas of the other particles counted on the
surface glass window. The result is expressed as “%Area”.

For example, a small number of trash counts can result in a high “%Area” value if the particles are large. On the
country, a high number of particles counts with a small “%Area” value indicate the trash is smaller in size (i.e.
pepper trash).

Trash Grade (Tr Grade): This is the trash or leaf grade that is determined by calibrating the HVI SPECTRUM
with known sample (i.e. trash standards). These samples are usually numbered form 1 to 7 with increasing amount
of trash as the number gets large. The standards used for calibration can be supplied by the USDA or established by
the official cotton standards agency in any cotton producing country.

Basic statistic: When analyzing test result of the USTER(R) HVI SPECTRUM some basic statistic is important.
The three terms used most often in analyzing test results are:

 Average or mean value

 Standard deviation
 Coefficient of variation or CV value

Specification of USTER AFIS PRO:

Machine no 02

Machine Name USTER(R) AFIS PRO

Brand Name Zellweger

 Origin USA

Model Pro

Function:
The function of this machine is to measure different information about cotton and sliver

Description:
The USTER(R) AFIS PRO comes with different modules e.g. NC module, L & M module and T module.

The NC module measures the following:

 Neps count per gram – nep Cnt/g

 Nep size [micron] – nep size[µm]
 Seed coat nep count per gram – nep Cnt/g
 Seed coat nep Size [micron] – SCN [µm]

The L & M module measures the following:

 Mean length by weight – L(w)

 Length variation by weight – L(w) CV%
 Upper Quartile length by weight – UQL(w)
 Short fiber content by weight – SFC(w)
 Mean length by number – L(n)
 Length variation by number – L(n) CV%
 5%-Length by number – L(n) 5%
 Short fiber content by number – SFC(n)
 Fineness [militex] – FINE [mtex]
 Maturity ratio – MAT
 Immature fiber content [%] – IFC [%]

The T module measures the following:

 Dust count per gram – Dust Cnt/g

 Dust size [micron] – Dust size[µm]
 Trast count per gram – Trast Cnt/g
 Trast size [micron] – Trast [µm]
 Visible Foreign matter [%] – VFM [%]

Specification of USTER TESTER 5:

Machine no 03

Machine Name USTER® TESTER 5

Company Name USTER TECHNOLOGY AG

Origin Switzerland

Model S-400
Functions:

 Capacitive measurement of mass variations and imperfections in yarn, roving and

 Capacitive measurement of mass variations and imperfections in yarn, roving and sliver of staple fibers.
 Automatic check of all measured values, diagrams and spectrograms.
 Yarn classification based on the USTER

STATISTICS

 Measurement of foreign matters.

 Collection, evaluation and storage of measurement values.
 QualiProfile, graphic presentation of the overall quality.
 Filter functions for quick data retrieval and for the preparation of long-term reports.
 Simulation of yarn boards, woven and knitted fabrics.
 Editor for customizing report layouts.

Types of sensors used in USTER TESTER 5:

There are three types of sensors and work separately

1. Sensor-CS (It identifies the thick and thin place, UV% etc.)
2. Sensor-OH (It measure hairiness)

Sensor-FM (It measure amount of foreign matter which present in yarn)

Different test specification:

Sliver test:

 Taken sample: 50 to 100 meter

 Speed: 25 m/min
 Time: 1 minute
 Use sensor: CS only
 Note: The test result will be accurate if the large sample is taken.

Roving test:

 Test speed: 50 to 100 m/min,  50 m/min maximum used

 Time: 1 minute
 Use sensor: CS and FM

Yarn test
Taken sample:

 Speed: 400 to 1000 m/min, 400 m/min maximum used

 Time: 1 minute
 Use sensor: CS, OH and FM
Machine No-04

 Specification of USTER TENSOJET-4:

 Machine name-single yarn strength tester
 Company- Zellweger uster tester
 Origin – Switzerland
 Function of the machine: The USTER TENSOJET-4 is used to measure single yarn strength

Technical data:

 Machine speed: 200 m/min (max 400 m/min)

 No of stock: 1-5, 00,000 but available used 200
 No of feeder: 24 bobbins

The machine show the diagram of breaking force(N), elongation%, tenacity(cN/tex), breaking work (cN.cm) etc

Specification of Zeigle lea strength tester:

Machine no 05

Machine Name Yarn Strength Tester(Lea)

Brand Name Zweigle

Origin Germany

Model L-427

Function:
This machine is mainly used for measuring yarn strength.

Description:
First take a lee from the wrap reel machine and clamped in this machine, then run the machine according to set
program. The gap between two clamp is increased and after sometime breaks the lee. At which load the lee is broke
indicate in the display, it is shown into pound (lb).To find out CSP the load is multiplied with yarn count

Specification of Zeigle wrap reel:

Machine no 06

Machine Name Wrap reel

Brand Name Zweigle

Origin Germany

Model L-232
Function:
The main function of this machine is to prepare a lee for yarn count test

Description:
It is generally made of steel with a reel. The circumference of the reel is 54 inch and measure 120 yds of yarn then
determines the yarn count.

Specification of Zeigle wrap block:

Machine no 07

Machine Name Wrap block

Brand Name Zweigle

Origin Germany

Model L-202

Function:
Use to measure the hank or count of preparatory process such as sliver, roving.

Description:
It is generally made of steel with a reel. The circumference of the reel is 36 inch and determines the length and
weight by balance. finally measure the weight/unit length.

 Length for sliver-6 yards

 Length for roving-30 yards