How to Make ZiPeehR a! SURESHow to Make Zipper Closures . CONTENTS Copyright® 1960 by The Sng Company «Alright reserved throaghowt the wld Ps tsene Yat BNO COMPANYZipper Closures The zipper placket involves more than a series of sewing steps. It is 10 closely allied to fitting and shap- ing the garment that its construc- tion cannot be described without taking into consideration its rela- tionship to the curves of the figu Need for this information is not limited to those making dresses. Each time a dress or skirt is al- tered to accommodate « change in girth at the waistline, the placket must be considered. Inspect the fit of the dress or skirt before attempting to apply the sipper, considering the following, points: Do the center front and back ba ing lines coincide with the center front and back of the person? If not, pethaps the garment has not been carefully positioned on the figure. After attempting to bring these basting lines into accurate position, are the side seams thrown, out of line? If so, the side seams must be altered to accommodate the differences in fuliness or width between the right and left sides of the body. Do the center front and back bast- ing lines hang perpendicalar to the floor? If they jut to one side the waistline joining is not correctly fitted. By lifting the waistline seam con the side away from which the center bastings slant, these center basting lines can be brought into ‘vertical position. Do the side seams hang straight from underarm to floor or do they draw to the front at the bustline and waistline and to the back at the hipline? If s0, the width of the blouse front is too narrow at the bustline and waistline and the width at the hipline across the back is too narrow. The side seams are frequently ample enough to let ‘out at these points to provide bet- ter fit. However, correct the fitting at these points in the alteration of the pattern of the nest garment made,the adjustable zipper foot. The end of the opening may be stitched straight across oF toa point, as illustrated. In either case, use the same number of stitches on both sides of seam. When making « long closure, as center front or center back of a one-piece dress or house coat, it is often better to stitch both sides in the same direction. Hand-Sewn Zipper Application Fine sewing is the final step to a flexible, inconspicuous smooth line tipper placket. This is accom- plished by machine stitching in ‘most fabrics. However, there are texture and weight of the fabric. ‘The spongy, napped and pile fab- rics, knitted fabrics, wool jersey, tricots,tafletas and chiffon are en- ance ta at least 9" wide, it fs not necessary to face placket. When facing the placket is neces sary, machine stitch seam tape to of the seam allowance EEEESES e Heine tape if the seam is less than 3%” wide. Use a fine sharp needle, either 9 ‘or 10, for hand stitching fine fab- ries. These needle sizes prevent disfiguring holes that are apt to mar the surface of a smooth, closely woven fabric. Thread should be a fow shades darker than the fabric, so that it fs not conspicuous on the outside fof the garment. Use mercerized thread for dull-surfaced fabrics Use silk thread for fabrics with a hhigh sheen. Stitches will then be practically invisible since light re- flection will be the same for both fabric and thread, When pinning the zipper in place fon hard-surfaced fabrics such as taffeta, use fine steel needles stead of pins. This prevents dis- figuring holes which mar the sur- face of the fabric. Press your placket on the wrong side. If the fabric marks easi place a piece of heavy paper or Blotter between ripper and the fold in the fabric covering the tipper, before pressing.lopped Placket Close placket opening by basting ‘on seam line. Hand baste seam in taffeta, satin and other hard-sur- faced fabrics, using a fine needle and thread to prevent marring the surface of the fabric. Press seam ‘open. Turn under back seam al- Jowance 14” from basted seamline. Pin \4” fold to zipper tape, easing fabric while pinning. Hand stitch fold to tape, using very small back stitches, evenly placed and close Slot Seam Plocket Close placket opening by basting, hhand or machine, depending upon ‘weight and texture of fabric, on seamline, Press seam open. Tum ‘garment to right side. Center basted seamline over closed ‘sipper, pin garment to zipper tape, ‘using fine pins or needles, easing ‘material while pinning. Baste gar- Direct needle up through seam. ‘Take very short back stitch and direct needle forward and up through fabric, then take stitch back and forward, evenly spaced ‘and close together. Draw thread clove to fabric but not tight. Re- move basting and press.ance and tipper tape on both sides as close to metal part as possible. Turn garment to right side and smooth fabric over aipper. Hand No Pin—No Baste Method placket the length of the metal part of the tipper. Keep zipper taut when ‘measuring length of placket. Close placket with machine basting (long stitch), matching waistline seam, Press seam open. Stay-stitch (reg- ular length machine stitch to pre- vent stretching) %” from edges, ‘on placket seam allowance. ‘Add scam binding to placket seam allowances if seam is narrower ‘ance. Attach Adjustable Cording Zipper Foot to machine. Adjust foot to right-hand side of needle. ‘Turn back section of garment un- der front, right sides together. Open zipper, place it face down ‘on back seam allowance with teeth ‘edge at seam line and bottom stop at lower end of basting. Stitch from bottom of tape up alongside the woven, cord:like guide line. ‘Then close ripper and turn it face up. Press fabrie away from tipper, thus making a narrow fold in back seam allowance. Adjust ripper foot to leftchand side of needle. Edge- stitch on fold, beginning at bottom ‘end of tape; sew through fold and tape only. ‘Spread garment flat with zipper face down. Release stitches in ‘waistline seam from outside edges to side seam. This allows seam tocontinue Stitch across bottom. To turn cor- rer, place needle in fabric, raise presser foot and pivot on needle. HEE gRiia? Hi fi i tinu L. it Baty V adi Hit sala! iii| uth Hutu Hue # tit zi back seam open the length ‘of the metal part of the zipper 14" or Y\" for ease when closing ‘sults in a reliable, lat, inconspicu- tipper. ‘ous placket. The method of zipper plus waistline seam allowance and i j application used in skirts also ap Stay-atitch (regular length ma- ‘waistlines. The use of the correct cenler zipper insures « neat, securely fit- ted waist and hipline. A correctly placed and applied skirt zipper re- Well styled “separates” snugly fitted, smoothly closed 1 beck seam allow 2 Zipper face up. Stich on fold of3 ety u el Hi ; cat gPi8itt Hi lei i il Hal li fas Trouser-ly openings vary in length, depending upon the cut that determine the length of the fly placket; the high rise waist- and skirts is packaged in one Jength—l1 inches. It can be cut to fit varying lengths of plackets wherever a waistband is used. For trouserfly application, first face left fly edge. Clip and press seam. Thea make right fly shield. and fit of trousers. There are fac- tors in the construction of trousers lines, low waistlines and full girth. The Special Trouser Lock Zipper, for trousers, slacks, shorts ‘Attach Zipper Foot to machine. ‘Trouser PlacketUnderneath Finish For a smooth tuck-under finish, allow 3” or 4” turn on all four sides of the chair. Mark seam line for finish around chair legs even with tuckunder. Shape cover, slashing material to 1{” of sear line and trim material between slashes. as shown in illustration, Finish opening with welting or 134” bias strip as shown in illus tration. Clip seam and turn to un- derneath side. Gut a section of muslin or any closely woven plain fabric to fit Snside of tuck-under. Allow 1” on all edges for seams. Stitch this section to front and to one side of lip cover, taking 34" seam. Join tuck-under around one leg. Press back seam edges and stitch again ‘on the right side. Insert zippers at side and back. Be sure to use the type that opens at both ends, To put cover on chair, slip the front closed opening up over leg, ‘smooth cover up over arms, then draw over back of chair. Smooth down all around and close back opening. Tarn bottom of chair up and close zippers at side and back, ‘This type of finish holds the cover neatly in place and facilitates its removal. Use this same closing for chaire finished with pleated flounce or fringe, if desired.Use Tips When Traveling. Zippered luggage and storage boxes and bags will keep their shape and give longer service if packed s0 the contents lie or hang smoothly and evenly, Don't over- load. When Dressing Close a zipper by first fastening the hook and eye, snap or button, At the nockline oF waistline, Hold the base of the placket firmly, and away from the body, as the slider is palled upward. Help for Closing a Long Placke ‘Thread a ribbon or string through the eyelet on the zipper tab and place it over the shoulder. Fasten the hook and eye at the neckline. Hold the base of the placket taut ‘and pull the slider with the aid of the ribbon or string “pulley.” Seporating Zippers ‘The separating end of a jacket type fastener consists of 3 parts the pin, the retainer into which the pin fits, and the slider—all of which should be in proper rela: tionship by meshing accurately ‘one with the other if the zipper is to function properly. Be sure the slider is held snugly against the retainer. ‘Then insert the pin the way into the retainer. ‘This aligns the tipper chain and puts the slider on the track in the cor- rect position, Foundation Garments Even the lightest weight, figure: ‘molding foundation garments have zippered plackets for proper fit and ease and speed in donning. Always fasten all hooks and eyes ‘on the underguard first. Then the ipper will close smoothly and quickly without effort. Care Tips Before Laundering or Dry Clean ing. Close « ripper placket before washing or dry cleaning gar- ments. This protects the zipper from possible damage to the teeth which could result from subject: ing them to excessive st against the sides of the slider. When Wringing Out « Gorment Protect the closed zipper, within the folds of the garment, before placing it between the rollers of a ‘squeezetype wringer; avoid twists in the ripper, and cheek the pull tab which should be lying flat on the zipper chain, When Zippers Run “Hard” Commercial cleaning methods often remove all lubrication from tippers, leaving the metal pi dry and subject to a “drag effect during the operation of the fastener. If a cleaner has feiled to lubricate the tipper, the use of parafin, beeswax or a commer: cially prepared product, preferably with a silicone base, applied lightly on the metal chain will re- turn the ripper to its original con- dition of ease and operation, When Pressing (a) To avoid the impression of aipper teeth showing on the placket {old, place the placket on a turkish towel or similar heavy padding and press from the inside of the garment; or (b) when pressing ‘on the outside of a garment, place 4 piece of blotting, paper oF clean cardboard between the tipper chain and placket fold. Place a pressing cloth over the placket area and press. To Preserve the Fit of a Garment Close a zipper placket when a garment is not being worn and be- fore it is hung up. This helps the garment keep its shape, prevents tagging and stretching. Remove Deteriorating Agents Always rinse a bathing suit in clear water after use to remove traces of salt water or chlorine, which can be detrimental to fabric and aipper.SINGER SEWING LIBRARY You're sure to want a complete set Here are the newest, most informative, “how 1 sewing books available today! Together they make up a complete dressmaking — home deco library. Fully illustrated, each one covers ject step-by-step, answering all your question inas few words as possible—almost before you them. Choose your needs from the selection of books listed below. MAKE CURTAINS MAKE ORAPERIES MAKE VALANCES MAKE BEDSPREADS LAY OUT A PATTERN AND CUT MEASURE, ALTER AND FIT MAKE SEAMS AND FINISHES MAKE SLEEVES: MAKE BUTTONHOLES AND POCKETS MAKE COLLARS, FINISH NECKLINES MAKE ZIPPER CLOSURES MAKE BELTS AND HEMS: MAKE SLIP COVERS MAKE CAFE CURTAINS LITTLE GIRLS TO SEW CHARM WHEN SEWING FOR GIRLS REINFORCE, REPAIR AND REFIT 118 — HOW TO DO DRESSMAKER TAILORING 119 = HOW TO MAKE APRONS 120 — HOW TO MAKE CUSHIONS, PILLOWS, AND BOLSTERS 121 — HOW TO SEW FOR BABIES ‘Singer Sewing Library Books are available at Singer Centers, variety, chain and department stores... ... where you will also find the SINGER SEWING SHELF —for sewing machine parts and supplies. Prepared im Cooperation with Talon Educational Service Book No, 1