Travel + Leisure India & South Asia - July 2023

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CONTENTS
Departments
2 Letter from the Editor
Discoveries
8 Savour the street food of
20 cities around the world with
this comprehensive list.
The Intelligent Traveller

30 A group of chefs reimagine their
menus with zero-waste cooking
in Stockholm; Sandeep Gonsalves,
co-founder and director of Sarah
& Sandeep talks about redefining
the concept of bespoke tailoring in
India; fashion designer and author
Meera Muzaffar Ali gets candid
about her book on royal cuisines;
culinary maestro Gaggan Anand
shares the reason behind his unique
serving style; chef Massimo Bottura
discusses sustainability in cooking
and his trip to India; the Business
Travel section gives insight into
the latest trends dominating the
alcobev industry in India. ON HER: Outfit,
Sureena Chowdhari;
Through the Lens earrings and bangles,
Shri Paramani Jewels;
48 A visual series from Kenya captures rings; Shri Paramani
its wildlife and the spirit of the Jewels, Silverstreak;
all prices on request.
Masai people.
Cover Story Cover star Tara Sutaria strikes a pose at Silly, Mumbai (p. 56).
56 A STAR ON THE RISE
Actor Tara Sutaria lets us in on
her favourite recipes and mantra
to stay positive. 74 VINEYARD OF DREAMS Your Best Shot
A trip to Kakheti wine region reveals 96 A reader captures the daily
Experiences why Georgian wine has captured the life in the coastal town
62 MINDFUL OASIS world’s attention. of Kanyakumari.
Discover Jodhpur through its 78 HOME GROWN
new initiatives that showcase the Life in Vermont’s Upper Valley gets
region’s food in conscious ways. a new lease of life with new farm
66 SONG OF THE VALLEY stays and restaurants.
Check in to Poetree Sarovar 80 TOTAL IMMERSION
ON THE COVER:
Portico to immerse in the magic On a tiny island in Germany lies Actor Tara Sutaria at Silly, Mumbai.
of Thekkady, Kerala. one of the most advanced wellness
68 CHEERS TO LIFE resorts in the world. PRODUCED BY Bayar Jain & Ishika Laul
PHOTOGRAPHED BY Rahul Jhangiani
Uncork bottles of bubbly and sample
award-winning food in Champagne. Features ASSISTED BY Deepak Yadav
STYLED BY Meagan Concessio
71
RAHUL JHANGI ANI
SAVOURING ESPAÑA
ASSISTED BY Harshita Samdariya
Take a tour of the 36th Salón 84 ALL CREATURES GREAT AND SMALL and Bidipto Das
Gourmets, one of the most Explore the African wilderness HAIR BY Hiral Bhatia
prestigious food and beverage through its winged species MAKE-UP BY Shraddha Mehta
fairs in Europe. in Botswana. LOCATION: Silly, Mumbai
travelandleisureasia.com/in 1
LETTER from the Editor
“
OOKING IS ALL ABOUT PEOPLE.
Food is maybe the only universal
thing that really has the power
to bring everyone together.” Guy
Fieri hits the bull’s eye with these
words. July is a special month for
Travel + Leisure India & South
Asia as it’s our annual dining
issue. Leisure travel is inevitably
intertwined with food, and where to eat
often becomes a leitmotif in your holiday
itinerary. From the best champagne trails
to chefs who tell stories with every dish
they create, there is a feast waiting for our Our cover star Tara Sutaria, who is FROM MY TRAVELS
A happy moment
readers in this issue. a self-confessed foodie opens up about from one of my
In the Discoveries list, we curate some of her favourite food destinations, cuisines, trips across India.
the best street food experiences around the and more (p. 56). At the end of this
world (p. 8); find out how Madrid turns into month, the Indian F&B industry will come
a haven for foodies during their biggest ever together to celebrate the best at Travel
culinary festival (p. 71); in Jodhpur we take + Leisure India’s Delicious Dining Awards
a tour of the farm-to-table initiatives (p. 62), 2023 in New Delhi. So, stay tuned to
and our Business Travel section rounds up travelandleisureasia.com and our social
the latest alcobev trends in the country (p. media handles for updates.
46). In addition, some of the most iconic
and Michelin-starred chefs from around the
world share the latest on dining trends and
the importance of sustainability and food
waste management. Chef Massimo Bottura
speaks about his penchant for zero-waste
kitchens (p. 44); chef Gaggan Anand shares
how travel impacts his eclectic dishes (p.
42); chef Dhruv Oberoi talks about playing Aindrila Mitra
with local ingredients to create global [email protected]
menus (p. 43); and chef Himanshu Saini
and Neha Mishra get candid about their
#TLTravels on
respective restaurants that found a place in @travelandleisureindia
the Middle East and North Africa’s 50 Best @tnlindia
Restaurants 2023 list. linkedin.com/company/travel-leisure-india-south-asia
Please Note: Refer to the rules and guidelines issued by your state government and those in place at the destination
of your choice before making travel plans during the COVID-19 pandemic.
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Gourmand’s Guide
Here are a few stories to keep you abreast of what
is happening in the culinary world.
3D Revolution
Find out how the culinary
world is bringing 3D printed
food to their menus.
travelandleisureasia. PEOPLE
com/in/dining/food/what-
Kalki Koechlin gets candid
is-3d-printed-food-and-
about her travel experiences
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and sustainable living.
travelandleisureasia.com/
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actor-kalki-koechlin/
A Slice of Asia
Savour pizzas at some of the
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pizzerias-make-the-asia-
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pizzas-2023/
DISCOVER
Wine Decoded Eat your way through
Trust this guide to help you
India with this guide to the
order wine like an expert.
country’s unique restaurants.
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Travel + Leisure
In d i a & So u th As i a
A G LO B E T R OT T E R ’ S GU I D E TO T H E L AT E ST I N T R AVE L
CITIES
THROUGH THEIR
From the traditional simit in

Istanbul to the stroopwafels in
Amsterdam, we uncover the
street food of 20 cities
worldwide, one bite at a time.
BY NANDINI AG ARWAL AND
RO OPLEKHA DA S
Döner kebabs in
Berlin are made from
meat cooked on a
vertical rotisserie.
S H U T T E R STO C K
1
Vietnam is well-known for its street food offerings. And in one of the country’s busiest cities, Ho Chi Minh, the
spring rolls are to die for. Colloquially called gͧ i cuͩn, they are filled with rice vermicelli, vegetables, and herbs,
along with prawns or pork, and are freshly rolled into bánh tráng (rice sheets). The rolls are best enjoyed with
Ho Chi Minh a peanut sauce that highlights the freshness of the vegetables and seafood, and this street food staple can
VIETNAM be found at food stalls in Amble down Tran Khac Chan Street or Phú Nhuͅn district. Other common street food
options include grilled prawns, fish hotpots, and a variety of crab dishes. While here, also make sure to get
your hands on bánh mì, a Vietnamese sandwich filled with a combination of meat, vegetables, fresh herbs,
and flavourful sauces, along with a side of the famed egg coffee. vietnam.travel
2
Istanbul TURKEY
Turkey’s vibrant street food scene is reflected
in the city of Istanbul. Among the must-try
street food here is the traditional simit, a
sesame-covered circular bread. They can
be found in food carts outside main tourist
attractions in Istanbul such as the Galata
Tower, Blue Mosque, and Hagia Sofia. It is
the perfect breakfast dish when paired with
cheese and a cup of Turkish coffee, also known
as Türk kahvesi. Another crowd favourite are
döner kebabs. It includes lamb, chicken, or
lamb and veal mix that is slowly roasted on
a rotating vertical skewer, served in pita with
salad or vegetables. Dönerci Şahin Usta is one
of the best places in the city to try this dish.
Another lesser-known street delicacy is the
simple and healthy kestane kebab or roasted
chestnuts. In Istanbul, red carts in Eminönü
S H U T T E R STO C K ( 2 )
square sell these delicacies. They can also be

found at Istikal Caddesi, the shopping street
between Galata and Taksim Square. Do not
forget to round off with the Turkish ice cream
that can be found all over the city. visit.istanbul
3
DI S C OV E R I E S
Kolkata INDIA
In India’s ‘City of Joy’, a culinary
adventure starts with tangy puchkas
and mishti doi. Puchkas are the local
name given to the dish known as pani
puri or golgappa in the north of India,
the difference being that the potatoes
are spiced. These are sold throughout
the city, but we recommend Dilip Da’s
Puchka Centre outside Vivekananda Park.
Mishti doi is a traditional Bengali sweet
yogurt made with milk, curd culture,
and jaggery or sugar. This mixture is
preserved and presented in clay pots
for natural fermentation. An iconic shop
that has been selling mishti doi since
1912 is Amrit, located at Fariapukur on
Bidhan Sarani, but you cannot go wrong
with this delicacy anywhere in the city.
To further unlock the world of tantalising
flavours, head to Maidan to experience
their iconic jhal muri (puffed rice with an
assortment of spices, vegetables), or visit
one of the outlets of Arsalan for Kolkata-
style biryanis. Also try the kathi rolls on
Park Street and kabiraji (a fish, chicken,
or mutton cutlet wrapped in a coating
of crunchy deep-fried egg floss) at Mitra
Cafe in Sovabazar. wbtourism.gov.in
4
Bali,
INDONESIA
You cannot come back from Bali

without experiencing the tempting
flavours of the most popular street
food—babi guling. The savoury dish
is an Indonesian version of a roast
suckling pig, marinated in a blend
of aromatic spices, and served with
rice, lawar (vegetable mix), and fiery
sambal. For an authentic taste, locals
recommend visiting Jalan Sunset Road
in Seminyak, where vendors specialise
in this traditional Balinese dish. For
vegetarians, there is an indulgent and
refreshing mega salad, gado-gado.
Made with boiled vegetables, tofu,
tempeh (fermented soyabean), and
lontong (compressed rice cake in
a banana leaf), and dressed with a
peanut sauce, it is served as a main
as well as a side. Coffee lovers can

also rejoice as there is a wide variety
of options available, and the beverage
is best served at local family-owned
eateries in Sanur. indonesia.travel
5
New York City USA
No New York street food experience
is complete without trying the
bagels at Ess-a-Bagel on 831 3rd
Avenue or from the food vendors
around Central Park, and pretzels
from Auntie Anne’s. The city now
also has a new favourite—halal
food trucks and carts. It presents
a distinct culinary experience,
providing a variety of dishes like
chicken, rice, kebabs, falafel, and
shawarma. While Times Square
might seem overrated, the Royal
Grill’s Halal Food is a good enough
reason to endure the crowd.
Another local favourite is NY Dosas,
a famed food cart parked in the
Southwest Corner of Washington

Square Park and run by Thiru Kumar,
famously known as the ‘Dosa Man’.
This dish is enjoyed by locals and
tourists alike. usatourism.com
6
Bangkok
THAILAND
While exploring the vibrant city

of Bangkok, immerse yourself
in their famous street delicacy,
pla pao, where fish is marinated
with aromatic herbs and spices,
and grilled to perfection. The dish
is often served with sticky rice,
dipping sauce, and vegetables.
At Talat Phlu market, you’ll find
vendors grilling pla pao along with
other seafood options. Som tam
or papaya salad is another must-
try while in Bangkok. Jay Fai, a
Michelin-starred street food stall in
the city serves excellent som tam.
Do not forget to get your hands on
pad thai, a stir-fry dish made with
rice noodles, shrimp, chicken, or
tofu, peanuts, scrambled eggs, and
bean sprouts. This dish is found in
almost every street stall across the
city. A trip to Bangkok is incomplete
without mango sticky rice. One
popular choice to sample this is
Mae Varee in Thong Lo. You can also
find this in popular food markets
such as Chatuchak Weekend
Market and Thonglor Street Food
Market. tourismthailand.org
7
DI S C OV E R I E S
Colombo
SRI LANKA
With its blend of fiery spices, creamy

curries, rich flavours, and unique
textures, Sri Lankan street food has
gained global popularity. Indulge in
the iconic kothu roti or egg roti. For
an authentic Sri Lankan breakfast
experience, make your way to Galle
Road where you’ll find string hoppers—
steamed rice noodles moulded
into flat discs. Traditionally served
with coconut sambal, dhal, and an
array of flavourful sauces, they pair
perfectly with a cup of black tea. Take
a leisurely stroll around Pettah; it is
always bustling with vendors and food
stalls offering short eats like samosas,
accompanied by creamy curries. Do
not forget to sample the egg hoppers
near Gangaramaya Temple. These
are made with a batter infused with
coconut milk and palm wine, resulting
in a delicate texture. Traditionally
served with coconut sambal, chilli
sauce, chutney, or fresh herbs, these
are also served with a fried egg in the
centre. Don’t miss the opportunity to
try the spicy lentil cake known as isso
wade at Nana’s, topped with succulent
prawns and accompanied by an array
of chutneys. srilanka.travel
8
Tokyo JAPAN
In Tokyo, start with the quintessential
Japanese street food—takoyaki
made of wheat batter and a filling of
octopus or a similar type of seafood.
It is topped with a combination of
sauce, mayo, and bonito flakes, and
is a true taste sensation. Savour the
simplicity and succulence of yakitori
or grilled chicken skewers seasoned
with a savoury glaze and served with
a variety of tangy sauces and spices.
A local favourite, Torikizoku Shinjuku
City is highly recommended for an
authentic yakitori experience. Seafood
lovers must head to Tsukiji Outer
Market for an array of fresh delicacies
like horumonyaki (made from beef or
pork offal), ichigo daifuku (strawberry

mochi), maguroyaki (fish-shaped
cake), tamagoyaki (sweet egg omelette
dish), unagi skewers, sashimi, and pork
dumplings. japan.travel
9
Czech cuisine is a world of flavours. From the iconic smažený sýr, a deep-fried cheese to uzené maso, meat
with a rich and smoky essence, you will find something for everyone in this food lovers’ paradise. Step outside
the Náměstí Míru metro exit and find yourself at the renowned Czech Hot Dog joint, Párek v rohlíku – Ladislav
Prague Červený. Here, you can savour a hot dog where the sausage remains enclosed in the bun. In Prague’s New Town,
CZECH Lahůdky Zlatý kříž beckons with its famous sandwiches. And of course, no visit to Prague is complete without
indulging in trdelník, the beloved sweet pastry found throughout the city. Watch as the dough is skillfully rolled
REPUBLIC over an open flame, resulting in a crispy outer layer and a soft interior. Fillings like Nutella, ice cream, or fresh
fruits add to the deliciousness. As you stroll through the lively streets of Old Town Square, don’t miss out on the
famous local dish of ham and halušky. visitczechrepublic.com
10
Amritsar PUNJAB
In the heart of Punjab, Amritsar has a plethora
of mouth-watering street food options leaving
every food lover spoilt for choice. Start your
day at Giani Tea Stall on Cooper Road, where
Gurmit Singh has been serving up chai for nearly
six decades. Looking for some snacks to get
you through the morning? Pahalwan Kulcha on
Lakshmanser Road near Iskcon Temple, serves
authentic Amritsari kulchas made in tandoors
(clay oven), and known for their crispy texture
and flavourful fillings, while Chacha Sweets
near the Golden Temple entices with deep-
fried laddoos and spiced samosas. In those
bustling lanes, you’ll also find the much revered
Giani Punjabi Lassi, which is known for its iconic
Punjabi lassi and mawa peda lassi, topped with
a generous dollop of butter, and delicate phirni.

Have a sweet tooth? Head to Gurdas Ram Jalebi
Wala, an easy-to-miss shop where you can
savour desi ghee ki jalebi and gulab jamun that
the locals relish. punjabtourism.punjab.gov.in
DI S C OV E R I E S
11
In Malay, the word rojak means ‘mixture’ or ‘assortment’, perfectly describing their must-try dish that
comprises a variety of ingredients. It features a medley of fruits and vegetables making it a delicious
and healthy food choice. This dish can be found in food stalls in Jalan Alor or from the Rojak Truck of
Kuala Lumpur Jalan Penaga, among others. Another street food that is emblematic of Kuala Lumpur is satay. These
MALAYSIA seasoned meat skewers, typically made with different kinds of meat are marinated with a blend of
spices and grilled on a bamboo stick, and are served with a tangy peanut sauce. Many hawkers and
vendors across the city sell this dish. While in the city, make sure to sample other street delicacies
such as roti kanai, a flatbread popular among the Malays; nasi lemak or fragrant rice dish cooked in
coconut milk and pandan leaf and drizzled with an anchovy and hot chilli sauce; and cendol, which is
shaved ice topped with pandan jelly, coconut milk, palm sugar, and rice noodles. malaysia.travel
12
Berlin, GERMANY
Berlin’s most popular street food is
currywurst, which is best enjoyed at Curry
36, while exploring German museums.
This iconic dish consists of a fried pork
sausage smothered in a delicious curry-
flavoured sauce and sprinkled with curry
powder. Although currywurst stands
can be found throughout the city, it is
the combination of crispy sausage and
balanced spices that make Curry 36 a go-
to spot for locals and tourists alike. Over
the years, another street food item that
has made it to the hearts (and stomachs)
of the locals in Berlin is the döner kebab.
It is a Turkish-inspired dish and is made
with a choice of meat cooked on a
vertical rotisserie, and multiple food
carts serve the delicacy throughout

the city. End your meal with a sweet
treat—berliner pfannkuchen, a deep fried
doughnut usually filled with jam, custard,
or chocolate. germany.travel
13
Brasília BRAZIL
Brazilian cuisine is a fusion of flavours and
influences from around the world. From
melt-in-the-mouth meat skewers to fluffy
fritters and hearty stews, the culinary
landscape is truly unique. Indulge in the
ultimate comfort food, coxinha (chicken
croquettes), a crunchy delight made with
chicken and shaped to resemble a chicken
thigh—a perfect treat any time of the day.
Coxinha Express is the go-to place to
satisfy your cravings. Head to the Cachorro
Quente do Landi for a Brazilian take on
the classic hot dog—cachorro quente that
features a bread roll filled with sausage
links, ground beef in a savoury tomato
sauce with vibrant green peppers and
onions, and gooey melted cheese. Cheese
lovers must try pão de queijo (cheese
bread), a baked cheese roll originating
from the state of Minas Gerais; enjoy this
traditional delicacy at Rei do Pão de Queijo
in the district of Asa Sul. visitbrasil.com
14
Athens
GREECE
Start your food tour

in the capital city
of Greece with the
traditional koulouri—a
small circular bread
sprinkled with sesame
seeds; you can find the
best ones at Koulouri
Tou Psyrri and Takis
Bakery. Make a stop
at Krinos for their
loukoumades, which
are Greek doughnuts.
Head to Lefteris O Politis
and treat yourself to
a souvlaki. This Greek
speciality features
grilled meat skewers
inside pita bread, and
is accompanied by a
medley of toppings
and sauces. Don’t miss
spanakopita, a pastry
filled with spinach, feta
cheese, onions, and
herbs, available in local

bakeries, and tavernas,
and sold by street
vendors throughout
the city. visitgreece.gr
15
DI S C OV E R I E S
Dublin
IRELAND
While hopping from one pub to

another in Dublin, make a detour
and visit O’Connell Street or
Grafton Street to experience the
city’s street delights. Indulge
in the classic fish and chips—a
plate of crispy, battered, and
deep-fried fish, typically cod
or haddock, accompanied by
French fries. For a taste of
traditional Irish fare, dig into a
bowl of Irish stew with tender
slow-cooked lamb, potatoes,
onions, and carrots. Craving
Mexican flavours? Head to
Boojum, the Mexican burrito
bar and sample their classic
burritos. Don’t miss the chance
to relish the iconic bangers
and mash as well as the unique
Irish delight known as boxty—a
potato pancake topped with a
variety of meats, cheeses, or
vegetables. Locals swear by
the boxty at Gallanger’s Boxty
House, on Temple Bar street.
visitdublin.com
16
Kozhikode, KERALA
From delightful pazham poris (banana fritters), neyyappams (sweet
rice-based fritters), and kuzhalappams (rice flour cannoli) to the
classic combination of kappa (tapioca) and meen (fish) curry, and the
chakka (jackfruit) and erachi (chicken) puzhukk (mash)—Kozhikode’s
street food scene is a treasure trove of flavours. Found in almost every
corner of the city, one can sample masala dosas that are served
with a side of coconut chutney; the sulaimani chai—a traditional
spiced black tea with citrusy hints and aromatic spices is the perfect
accompaniment. Along Kozhikode Beach, local vendors sell delicacies
like kada mutta (quail egg), fried mussels, prawns, and mackerel.
And no culinary adventure in Kozhikode is complete without tasting
the famous halwa—a sweet dish crafted with sugar, cornstarch, and
coconut oil that makes for the perfect finale to your gastronomic
experience in the city. keralatourism.org
17
Buenos Aires
ARGENTINA
Argentine staples reign supreme in Buenos

Aires, with their presence felt throughout
the city, albeit with a few regional variations.
Picture succulent, world-class meat cuts
perfectly seasoned and grilled to perfection—a
mouthwatering feast known as asado that
is found nearly everywhere in the city. If
you venture into lesser-known areas such
Fabrica De Empanadas or Morita, you can get
your hands on empanadas. These pastries,
reminiscent of a calzone and a turnover, are
filled with beef, chicken, cheese, or onion,
then baked or fried. Another must-try is
choripán, where grilled pork or beef chorizo
is packed between slices of crusty bread and
garnished with chimichurri sauce. The best
choripán can be savoured near Jorge Newbery
Airport, along Costanera Sur. For a truly
authentic experience, venture off the beaten
path to La Feria De Mataderos, where the air is
filled with the aroma of cured meats, chorizos,
tamales, empanadas, and locro stew with
beans, corn, sausages, vegetables, and meat
cuts. And how can one forget the irresistible
dulce de leche flavoured ice cream—a local
favourite that will transport your taste buds to
heaven. argentina.travel
18
Cape Town
SOUTH AFRICA
The streets of Cape Town brim

with stalls and restaurants dishing
out enticing street food. From
contemporary Asian delights like satays
and beef short rib at Lotus Food Truck
and global favourites such as pizza
and calzones to seasonal wonders
like artichoke risotto, Melanzane
parmigiana, and yellowfin tuna panini
at Limoncello, there is a lot to explore
here. Don’t miss the iconic Boerewors
Roll, a farmer’s sausage infused with
irresistible spices like coriander, cloves,
and nutmeg, with a smoky flavour and
crispy skin. The one at Ahmed’s Tikka
House is to die for. Another must-try
is Bunny chow, a hollowed-out loaf
of white bread filled with curry and

a serving of salad on the side. For
the best Bunny Chow in town, head
to Durban’s Finest Curry, where both
vegetarian and non-vegetarian options
await. southafrica.net
19
DI S C OV E R I E S
Amsterdam
NETHERLANDS
Amsterdam’s iconic
stroopwafel is best suited
to satiate your sweet tooth.
This thin, caramel-filled
waffle cookie is pressed in
a hot iron and comes out
perfectly textured with warm
and oozing caramel sauce.
For the best version, head to
Albert Cuyp Market located
in the vibrant neighbourhood
of De Pijp. For those who
prefer something savoury,
there is the deep-fried
bitterballen. Shaped like
a ball, it is filled with a
mixture of meat, herbs, and
spices and is served with
a mustard dip. For a more
localised experience, pair it
with a pint of cold beer at
a local pub around Jordaan
neighbourhood. Another local
favourite is haring, which
is simply herring (fish) with
onions and pickles. While it
may not be everyone’s cup of
tea, it is a must try when you
are in the city. holland.com
20
Rome ITALY
Amidst the land of pizzas and
pasta, there is a more beloved
and traditional Roman street food,
supplí. This deep-fried snack
consists of rice balls, cheese,
and a rich tomato sauce, coated
in breadcrumbs. Supplí is sold
commonly in local eateries around
F R O M TO P : SH UT T ER STO C K ; C OU RTE SY O F TR A PI Z Z I N O
the city but is particularly popular

in the Trastevere neighbourhood.
Another extremely indulgent street
food in Rome is trapizzino, which
is made like a pizza pocket and is
generally stuffed with traditional
Roman condiments. Amongst other
choices of filling is meat, cheese,
and vegetables. Some of the best
trapizzino can be found on Via
Giovanni Branca. And before leaving,
do get your hands on the most
common food across Italy—pizza by
the slice—at Via dei Serpenti near
the Monti neighbourhood. italia.it
DI S C OV E R I E S
Clockwise from left: The Water Villa comes with three bedrooms
and an infinity pool; The new villas overlook the picturesque
Gangapur Lake; The Source Chenin Blanc Reserve recently
received a silver medal at the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles.
of our winemaking team. It reinforces our

dedication and commitment to showcasing
the incredible potential of Indian wines on
a global scale. As the first Indian winery to
win a medal at this prestigious platform,
we celebrate this milestone with immense
pride,” said CEO Rajeev Samant on the win.
Wine O’clock
One of Asia’s most sustainable wine producers, Sula Wines has
With wineries in Maharashtra and
Karnataka, the brand pioneered wine
tourism in India and today, hosts more
been instrumental in putting India on the global wine map. than 3,00,000 annual visitors at its
The brand also recently won a silver medal, a first for any Indian Nashik estate. Sula opened the country’s
wine label, at Concours Mondial de Bruxelles. first tasting room in 2005 and India’s
first vineyard resorts in 2010. And more
recently, they’ve launched three new
S
ULA VINEYARDS IS A true pioneer when it luxury villas—Air, Earth, and Water—at
comes to building the Indian wine industry. their Beyond resort in Nashik. While the
Not only did it establish Nashik as the world’s Air and Earth Villas boast four bedrooms,
newest premium wine destination, but also a spacious living room, and a temperature-
placed India on the global wine map. controlled infinity swimming pool, the
Over the years, the brand has earned accolades at Water Villa comes with three generously
top global wine competitions including Decanter World sized bedrooms and an infinity pool on the
Wine Awards and the International Wine Challenge. ground floor. Modelled after their iconic
More recently, Sula’s acclaimed wine—The Source Chenin Sky Villa, these three stylish new villas
Blanc Reserve—received a silver medal at the renowned overlook the picturesque Gangapur Lake,
Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, an international and offer an unforgettable stay.
competition that felicitates the best wines and spirits The brand is also one of Asia’s most
worldwide. The feat is a first for any Indian wine. sustainable wine producers; it is the first
COURTESY OF SUL A W INES
Out of the 7,500 wines from across 50 countries Asian winery to join the International
that were tasted this year, The Source Chenin Blanc Wineries for Climate Action (IWCA), with
Reserve stood out for its exceptional quality and precise the shared goal of net-zero emissions
craftsmanship. The wine exhibits aromas of pear, by 2050. Sula engages in sustainable
pineapple, and citrus notes, and embodies the richness agriculture, and also supports the local rural
of vanilla. “This is surely a testament to the hard work economy. sulavineyards.com ţSIMRRAN GILL
S P EC I A L F E AT U R E
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Clockwise from above: Vajpai captures the vibrant culture of the descendants of Alexander the Great with the help of ZEISS Cine-flare portrait;
the Pro-Sports Mode catches Vajpai in action; the industry’s largest sensor, Sony IMX989, captures the Thiksey Monastery at night.
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F E AT U R E
SPECI A L
Clockwise from here: The Bondi to Coogee Walk lets one

admire Sydney’s iconic sights; travellers can strap on to
one of the world’s longest rollercoaster-style ziplines on
the Central Coast; Glenworth Valley Outdoor Adventures
boasts Australia’s largest horse-riding centre.
Where Adventure Awaits

Packed with adrenaline-pumping activities that make for everlasting
memories, New South Wales in Australia provides an ideal setting
for a truly thrilling trip. BY BAYAR JA I N
B
LESSED WITH MAGNIFICENT national parks,
dazzling coastlines, the striking Outback, and
UNESCO World Heritage sites, New South Wales
is Australia has unique landscapes that offer
countless outdoor adventures.
Begin your holiday with hiking trails near
Sydney. The Bondi to Coogee Walk is dotted with Sydney’s
iconic sights along the way. When at Bondi beach, sign up Start with Grand Pacific Drive from Sydney
for a quick surfing lesson. The Spit to Manly Walk—another to Wollongong, which passes through Royal
coastal stretch near the state capital—promises a mix of bush National Park and over Sea Cliff Bridge. Stop by
and brushland, along with aboriginal rock engravings. Take Jervis Bay Marine Park—a park located only two
CLO C KW ISE FROM TOP LEF T: HAMILTON LUND/DEST INAT ION NSW; DEST INAT ION NSW (2); COURTESY OF SINGAP ORE A IRL INES
your bike for a spin across the Tommos loop and Rocky Ponds hours away from the metropolis—for swimming,
cycling loop that promises views of Brisbane Water. Make time snorkelling, fishing, and stand-up paddle
to visit Glenworth Valley Outdoor Adventures. This 3,000- boarding. Alternatively, Illawarra Fly Treetop
acre unspoiled wilderness—credited as Australia’s largest Adventures in Southern Highlands offers
horse-riding centre—is ideal for guided rides, as well as to hire one of Australia’s popular rainforest canopy
horses for solo adventures. Those looking for fast-paced action experiences. Those with more time on hand can
can strap on to one of the world’s longest rollercoaster-style attempt Six Foot Trek, a three-day 46-kilometre-
ziplines at TreeTops Crazy Rider in Ourimbah State Forest. long trek best reserved for experienced hikers;
Continue further north towards Port Stephens for quad or Five Mile mountain bike trail with wall rides,
biking adventures at the Stockton Bright Sand Dunes, or go flowing bridges, and a pump track.
scuba diving alongside bottlenose dolphins. Make a pitstop Heading west from Sydney? Visit Blue
to swim with grey nurse sharks at Fish Rock Cave or enjoy Mountains. These UNESCO World Heritage-
whitewater rafting on the Nymboida River, before venturing listed landscapes are ideal for trekking, rock
further to the Cape Byron Walking Track. Byron Bay is also climbing, and abseiling. Squeeze in a ride to the
famous for skydiving—enjoy coastal views from up to 15,000 edge of the Grose Wilderness on the Burramoko
feet! On the southern side of Sydney, more adventures await. cycle trail, or escape to the mainland to marvel
at the world’s southernmost coral reef at Lord
Howe Island Marine Park.
With an action-packed adventure holiday
awaiting in New South Wales, it’s best to kickstart
it with a soothing flight. With Singapore Airlines’
(singaporeair.com) flights to Sydney, the holiday
begins with world-class service 30,000 feet in
the air. From spaciously designed interiors across
cabins to delectable meals and intuitive mood
lighting that helps reduce jetlag, the Singapore
Airlines’ inflight experiences are designed for
Singapore Airlines offers relaxation. visitnsw.com
spaciously designed
interiors across cabins.
Eat Your Way
Through Sydney
From upscale fine dining establishments and markets
celebrating local produce to insightful masterclasses,
delicious experiences await in Sydney. BY BAYAR JA I N
S
YDNEY BOASTS OF being one of the world’s most
multicultural destinations, with more than a third
of its residents born overseas. It comes as no
surprise, then, that the city is a gourmand’s delight.
Singapore Airlines (singaporeair.com),
CLO C KW ISE FROM TOP LEF T: DEST INAT ION NSW; JAMES HORAM/DEST INAT ION NSW; COURTESY OF SINGAP ORE A I RL INES
renowned for its luxurious and world class in-

flight experience, is the apt choice to fly to Sydney. It has
Clockwise from above left: One can experience the best
outstanding dining options made better with the highest views of Sydney Harbour from MCA Cafe; the Sydney Fish
quality of ingredients and an enviable selection of wines Market offers tours and cooking classes for visitors; fine
and champagnes. Book The Cook, a pre-order meal service, dining 30,000 feet in the air, on board Singapore Airlines.
offers premium passengers a wide selection of dining
options, including creations inspired by the Singapore In Newtown, a neighbourhood south-
Airlines International Culinary Panel. Moreover, the airline’s west of Sydney CBD, join a guided Newtown
signature Singapore Sling and other cocktail creations are Chewtown foodie safari with Local Sauce Tours
a must-try for passengers on board. (localsaucetours.com.au) to get a taste of Egyptian,
On landing in Sydney, immerse yourself in the city’s coffee Indian, Turkish, Thai, and Australian flavours.
culture. The rooftop cafe at the Museum of Contemporary Book a brewery tour at the Basement
Art in Circular Quay serves brews with harbour views; Brewhouse (bankstownsports.com/brewhouse),
Artificer Coffee (artificercoffee.com) in Surry Hills focusses before hopping over to Chippendale for a dinner
solely on its caffeine creations; and Paramount Coffee Project at Ester (ester-restaurant.com.au), that celebrates
(paramountcoffeeproject.com.au) not only rotates its beans locally sourced ingredients with flair. Make time
every six weeks, but also offers free tasting sessions. for Dave’s Brewery Tours (daves.com.au) where
For a luxurious meal, head to Quay (quay.com.au), experts bring you closer to the best local craft
a hatted restaurant located at The Rocks. The nature- beers around the city.
inspired modern Australian menu here is an interplay For some behind the scene adventures, head
of textures and colour. Bentley Restaurant + Bar to Sydney Fish Market (sydneyfishmarket.com.au);
(bentleyrestaurantgroup.com.au) offers chef Brent Savage’s get a lesson in the art of fish butchery from hatted
innovative European food menu paired with boutique chef Josh Niland at his new Fish Butchery Waterloo
international wines. Savour traditional Japanese flavours (fishbutchery.com.au) outlet; or pick fresh apples to
enhanced by classic French technique at Tetsuya’s make ciders with Hawkesbury Harvest Farm Gate
(tetsuyas.com), or gorge on an 11-course degustation menu Trail (harvesttrailsandmarkets.com.au) on the edge
that changes every 10 weeks, at NEL (nelrestaurant.com.au). of Sydney. visitnsw.com
a l F e a t u r e
Speci
DUBA I
DELICIOUS DUBAI
Dubai’s food scene is exploding with fine-dining establishments—
some of them with global laurels—serving diverse and innovative
cuisines from around the world. BAYAR JA IN speaks to two
Indian chefs—Himanshu Saini and Neha Mishra—who have
stormed this market with their unique styles.
Himanshu Saini
CHEF, TRÈSIND STUDIO, DUBAI
TASTE OF SUCCESS
Chef Himanshu Saini’s restaurant from London to do food
in Dubai, Trèsind Studio, bagged trials for Indian Accent.
the second spot on Middle During that time, I helped
East and North Africa’s 50 Best chef in my capacity as
Restaurants 2023 and is ranked a trainee. Two months
number 11 on The World’s 50 later when Indian Accent
Best Restaurants 2023 list. opened its doors, he In fact, Indian food is organically set ourselves
insisted on getting the constantly evolving and apart from others.
Excerpts from the interview: same team that helped getting modernised. Through our menu,
You trained with chef Manish him during trials. So, in a Chillies and potatoes, we trace the map of India
Mehrotra at Indian Accent. way, destiny picked me! for example, were never by showcasing four dishes
How did that happen? a part of Indian cuisine from four regions. We’re
I had joined Old World Hospitality Trèsind Studio is known for but have now evolved to looking to change the
(oldworldhospitality.com), serving progressive Indian become a staple. narrative of Indian cuisine
which has multiple restaurants, cuisine. How do you curate At Studio, we create and break stereotypes
including Indian Accent. As the menu and what makes and serve flavours that we through the 16-18 dishes
part of this group, 12 of us were it different from others? would like to eat ourselves. that we serve. That’s
recruited by restaurants as When we opened Trèsind We cook from the heart, why there’s no breads,
trainees and circulated internally in 2014, Carnival by and avoid ingredients rice, or tandoor on the
to gain experience in different Trèsind in 2016, and finally and dishes that we aren’t menu. Indian food is so
kitchens. While I was training Trèsind Studio in 2018, comfortable with. There is much more than naan
at The Manor in New Delhi, chef there was no concept of no caviar, truffle, or beef in and biryani!
Manish Mehrotra had flown down ‘modern Indian cuisine.’ our menu. By doing this, we
What’s your take on Dubai’s
evolving culinary scene?
It has matured and
evolved a lot in the last
two years. There’s a lot
more flavours. Bringing
Michelin to the city was
also a big step, and I’m
grateful to the government
for it. It has pushed
everyone to become
focussed on creating
experiences for diners.
ALL IMAGES BY TEJA SW I GHAGADA
Which are the must-try

eateries in Dubai?
Al Ijaza Cafeteria, Shri
Krishna Bhavan
Clockwise from here: Medu vada, gorgonzola Which is a destination you’d

dolce, tender coconut kimchi; king oyster like to visit for its food?
noodles, bamboo shoots, wild mushroom XO; Japan for its precision,
Trèsind Studio serves modern Indian cuisine. perfection, and creativity.
Kinoya serves authentic Japanese cuisine. Below: The drinks at
the restaurant are an integral part of the izakaya experience.
has an amazing food during the pandemic.

community, so I had a lot At the time, Japan was
Neha Mishra of support from my peers.

Many people were rooting
for me. We make street
food, but the complexity
seeing a new wave of
compartmentalised
restaurants. Using that as
an inspiration, we started
of it is laborious and creating something that
FOUNDER AND CHEF, KINOYA knowledge heavy. It is an was immersive depending
PASSION TO PLATE
ongoing process for my on where you were
peers to take me seriously seated. So, it didn’t matter
for that. As a female chef, if the rest of the restaurant
I was lucky as I opened was empty during COVID,
my own restaurant. I because where you
Making strides in the male- Tell us about your journey didn’t face the same were sitting [in Kinoya],
dominated culinary industry, to set up Kinoya. challenges as the women it would be a bit more
chef Neha Mishra propelled I started with a supper working for a kitchen. atmospheric. It started
Kinoya, her izakaya-style club. Over the span of Having said that, the out as practical thinking.
restaurant in Dubai, to clinch three-and-a-half years, industry is changing. Of However, as we
the Michelin Bib Gourmand and I had already hosted course, this opinion comes offered more than just
a spot on Middle East & North 7,000 people! However, from the fact that I run my ramen, we had to think
Africa’s 50 Best Restaurants list. I had to build some level own kitchen. At Kinoya for about what else we could
of confidence to get into instance, 40 per cent of create to make it more
Excerpts from the interview: that arena. Over time, I the kitchen staff is women. immersive. That’s how the
What sparked your interest in started realising that I Often, women are not given rooms came to be. I firmly
Japanese cuisine? could offer something this first chance. Once you believe that ramen should
I’m a self-taught chef and special, at least in terms get past that barrier, they be eaten at counters, so
during this [learning] period, I of Japanese cuisine. When have a better chance of we created those. With
started feeling strongly about the business felt viable and getting to the same levels this, I wanted to give
Japanese food. Although the I felt confident, I decided as their male counterparts. guests the option of solo
cuisine is hyper-focussed, I to open a restaurant. dining, much like it is the
specifically started enjoying Kinoya is also known case in Japan. The main
working with ramen. It is one The culinary industry is a for creating an izakaya dining is more for families
of the few disciplines within male dominated space. experience for its diners, and groups of friends.
Japanese cuisine that doesn’t How difficult was it for you with segregated dining I wanted to showcase
have any rules, so I enjoy to break through? spaces. Tell us more. sushi, so we set up a
flowing freely with it. It’s competitive. But Dubai We started building Kinoya chef’s table too.
F E AT U R E
SPECI A L
Jun’s serves North American food with Far Eastern

and Indian flavours. Left: Owner Kelvin Cheung with
chefs Neha Mishra and Himanshu Saini.
MEMORABLE MEALS TASTE OF NOSTALGIA

Next, we visit celebrity chef Kelvin Cheung’s
Here’s a look at some of Dubai’s best restaurants as recommended restaurant, Jun’s (junsdubai.com). I’m told to
by chefs Himanshu Saini and Neha Mishra. BY BAYAR JA IN expect North American food, blended with Far
Eastern and Indian flavours. “We also try to
A
integrate local ingredients in the menu,” adds
l Barsha for street food, Dubai Marina for a luxe Cheung. But I’m also served views of the iconic
global affair, and Al Deira and Bur Dubai for Lebanese Burj Khalifa from the perch, mood lighting inside,
and Arabic dishes are the suggestions by locals and an inviting chef’s table overlooking the open
when I enquire about where to go for good food in kitchen. The rainbow heirloom carrots here are
Dubai. To help me choose, I turn to chef Himanshu smoked to perfection, the mango sticky rice
Saini of Trèsind Studio and chef Neha Mishra of Kinoya. While reminds me of summer, and the cold brew gives
Trèsind Studio is a 20-seater space that serves an Indian just the jolt I need to charge ahead.
degustation menu split region-wise, Kinoya offers Japanese
fine dining creations in an informal izakaya setting divided VEGGIE PARADISE
into rooms. Both restaurants have been featured on Middle AVATARA, Dubai’s sole all-vegetarian degustation
East and North Africa’s 50 Best Restaurants lists. Now, it is fine dining experience, is a befitting finale to our
time to sample their favourites in the city. gastronomic trail. Rahul Rana, AVATARA’s executive
chef, leads me toward an unremarkable door
AN UNUSUAL SURPRISE next to a bar. I’ve never seen a speakeasy-style
We begin at Ugly Burger (instagram.com/ugly.burger/), entrance for a fine dining establishment!
a home-grown Asian haunt in Nakheel Mall. An odd name The 24-seater serves a 16-course Indian menu
to lure diners, I think out loud. Co-founder Chang Sup Shin with artistic flair such as blooming flowers and dry
reveals, “During the food trials, when I showed the burger to ice. This Michelin-awarded restaurant is frequented
my wife, she said ‘that is one ugly burger!’ I loved the name, by global personalities, many of whom have left
and we decided to keep it.” messages in bottles on display near the open
The taste, however, is far from its name. Think truffle kitchen. As I sip on carrot kanji accompanying
burger rolls, the Original KFC (Korean Fried Chicken), and the the dal vada and black lemon pickle, I’m amazed
signature Pow Pow fries. “When you pick up an Ugly Burger, to see how Dubai’s culinary scene has evolved.
you can’t put it down,” says chef Saini. Within seconds, “Dubai’s current gastronomic scene is disruptive!”
I devour the soft Impossible Bulgogi Burger, a plant-based chef Mishra rightly sums it. I can’t wait to taste
variation of their beef classic. what the city is cooking up next.
From far left: Ugly

Burger is a home-
grown Asian haunt
in Nakheel Mall;
Rahul Rana is the
executive chef of
AVATARA, Dubai’s
first and only
all-vegetarian fine
dining experience.
a l F e a t u r e
Speci
USA
IN A LEAGUE
OF THEIR OWN
From coast to coast, the US boasts an array of world-class food
establishments. A DI L A M AT RA sits down with three culinary experts,
including two top-notch chefs and a wine expert, each representing
a distinct city, to delve into their culinary expertise and unearth
the must-try experiences in their respective regions.
Perry Raso
FOUNDER AND OWNER, MATUNUCK OYSTER BAR, RHODE ISLAND
PIONEERING AQUACULTURE
I
N THE HEART of Rhode Island, increase dissolved oxygen, enhance restaurant. This requires us to adjust and
Matunuck Oyster Bar is a seafood biodiversity, and provide habitat for other change menu items as new crops come
lover’s paradise that serves fresh ocean life,” he explains. “Aquaculture has in,” he says. The customers love the bar
oysters from Potter Pond, right become the fastest-growing form of food for its oysters—especially passion fruit
off the restaurant’s patio. production worldwide,” he adds. oysters—and organic veggie dishes.
Founder and owner of this establishment, While oysters remain the main crop at As a restaurateur whose ingredients
Perry Raso was an oyster farmer; he Matunuck Oyster Farm, Raso also cultivates come from just a few kilometres away,
started Matunuck Oyster Farm in 2002, hard shell clams and scallops. He also aims Raso defines farm-to-table as “using
long before sustainability became a to develop techniques for growing sea an abundance of locally sourced and
buzzword. Over the years, he has urchins and locally sourced seaweed. harvested food, typically within a
witnessed a significant increase in interest However, running a farm-to-table 250-kilometre radius.” When asked about
and demand for aquaculture, he says. restaurant presents its challenges. “One a must-try classic American dish, Raso is
The farmer-turned-restaurateur of the biggest challenges is synchronising quick to answer, “Lobster pizza. During
emphasises the significance of shellfish the harvest times of our crops with COVID, when takeout food became a
farming. “Shellfish eat phytoplankton, the volume of guests coming into the huge percentage of our business, I did
some research on the most popular
Raso was an oyster farmer and started Matunuck Oyster Farm in 2002. takeout items, and pizza was number
Right: Customers at his bar love the oysters and organic veggie dishes. one. So, I asked my kitchen management
team to come up with the best seafood
pizza possible and that’s what they did.
It’s out of this world.”
To those visiting Rhode Island,
Raso recommends exploring the state’s
magnificent beaches. “South Kingstown,
Narragansett, and Charlestown have
beautiful sandy beaches, each of them
unique. Providence and Newport are
beautiful and busy small cities with lots
going on. Rhode Island is relatively small,
but it is located centrally between Boston
and New York with road and rail routes
between all three,” says the visionary whose
dedication to sustainable aquaculture
excellence has made Matunuck Oyster Bar
a culinary gem in Rhode Island.
F E AT U R E
Zoya Vora-Shah
SPECI A L
WINE EXPERT, THE WINE COLLECTIVE OF SCOTTSDALE
REVOLUTIONISING
WINE CULTURE
Shah recommends
the self-guided walking
wine trail in Old
Town Scottsdale.
Right: The Collective
bridges the gap between
wine enthusiasts
and the intricacies
of the wine world.
Z
OYA VORA SHA , an Indian-origin convince my family that I wanted to be in
wine connoisseur who moved to hospitality instead of the medical industry.
the US when she was 18, started Doing something that is not a cultural To visitors of Scottsdale, The Wine
The Wine Collective of Scottsdale norm was challenging.” Collective founder suggests a farm-to-
in 2022 with the objective of Through The Wine Collective, Shah table experience at F&B Restaurant,
making wine accessible to everyone. aims to demystify wine and ensure soaking up the local atmosphere at
“Arizona wines have come a long way since accessibility for all. By training the wine Cornish Pasty, exploring the self-
I tasted them in 2009. The quality and specialists to use everyday language, guided walking wine trail in Old Town
price are now competitive to the wine explain wine terminologies, discuss oak Scottsdale, and indulging in tamales,
regions, I wanted to share that with others regiments, and delve into winemaking mole, and margaritas at Barrio Queen.
by showcasing Arizona wines at a tasting styles, the Collective bridges the gap And for wine enthusiasts seeking
room that can represent wineries around between wine enthusiasts and the diverse and remarkable experiences
Arizona,” she adds. The tagline, intricacies of the wine world. in the US, Shah recommends Oregon,
“Representing the Unrepresented,” So what sparked her interest in wine? Washington State, the Finger Lakes
symbolises the collective’s dedication to “It all began when I was introduced region in New York, and Virginia
promoting Arizona wineries that may not to wine at a restaurant in Jacksonville, Winery as must-visit destinations.
have their own tasting rooms in the Old Florida,” she says, adding, “I started Shah has exciting plans for The
Town Scottsdale area. Each member of working at Carlson Creek Winery Tasting Wine Collective. “We aim to create
Shah’s staff is a trained wine specialist, Room in Old Town Scottsdale in 2020. an app-based wine concierge service
adept at curating unique wine flights The wines were so good, I started catering to wine lovers in Scottsdale,
tailored to guests’ preferences. exploring other winery tasting rooms in Paradise Valley, and Arcadia, and
When asked what the most challenging the area and found that some beautiful craft our own unique wine blends,”
aspect of journey was, Shah says, “To wines were being produced in our state.” signs off Shah.
UMI By Vikram Garg is a culinary tribute to the nurturing abundance
of the sea. Below: Scallop carpaccio served at Garg’s restaurant.
Vikram Garg
OWNER, UMI BY VIKRAM GARG, HAWAII
CELEBRATING THE OCEAN

T
HE SEAFOOD restaurant in the challenges, “there are a lot of ethnic chicken wings with blue cheese dip,”
Hawaii, UMI by Vikram Garg, seafood restaurants in the islands, comes Garg’s quick reply.
CLO C KW ISE FROM TOP LEF T: COURTESY OF CHEF V I KRAM GARG; RIC NOYLE PHOTO GRAPHY (2)
is named after the chef-founder so sculpting what makes each one Being an islander himself, Garg also
who brings a wealth of experience distinctive and memorable is a journey offers valuable tips for travellers visiting
from working in restaurants of its own for the chef,” he says. “Another the islands. “Visit the islands with respect
across both the United States and India. reality to any island restaurateur is and be mindful of culture and traditions.
The inception of UMI by Vikram factoring in the cost of ingredients, Soak in the Healing waters of Waikiki. This
Garg stems from Garg’s deep connection relationships with local farmers, seasonal was a privilege only the royalty had during
with the ocean and his view of food as a and responsible sourcing, and timing the kingdom era. Do not take back lava
life-giving source. “UMI means ‘ocean’ in quality goods that need to be imported stone from the islands; as per Hawaiian
some languages, and in others, it means amid economic curves.” beliefs, it brings bad luck,” he advises.
‘mother’,” explains Garg. “As I studied this While Garg finds it challenging The chef says that each island in Hawaii
stunning symbolism, it deeply resonated to pick a favourite dish among his offers a unique experience. “On Oahu, start
with me and my view of food—just like the creations, the Abalone stands out as a your day with a sunrise run up Koko Head
ocean, food nourishes, connects, sustains, signature masterpiece. The reason? “It and on a clear day get a 360° view of the
and some may say, is the most valuable life showcases refined French techniques, island, enjoy bites at the Honolulu Farmers
source for all of humanity; and yet more the most unexpected flavour profile, Market on Ward, take a coastal drive along
than 80 per cent of it is unexplored.” and surprising tenderness, and uses the the Waimanalo Coast, jump in the ocean
As the founder of a seafood restaurant purest local ingredients in Hawaii. It at Bellows, drive over the majestic H3,
in Hawaii, Garg acknowledges the many is also a rare zero-waste dish in and of and take in an iconic Waikiki sunset at
benefits that come from being surrounded itself, which is important to me and how House Without A Key for a glimpse of the
by the Pacific Ocean and rich agricultural I run my kitchen,” says Garg. But what is infamous ‘green flash’ on the horizon. That
resources. However, he also acknowledges his favourite American dish? “Barbeque is a perfect day in Hawaii,” he says.
Travel + Leisure
In d i a & So u th As i a
The
T I P S AND TRICKS TO HELP YO U TRAVEL SMARTER
I
FROM THE
NSIDE A HAUTE VEGAN restaurant connected to a
nightclub beneath a bridge in wintry Stockholm, I was
GROUND UP
having one heck of a meal. Using such kitchen wizardry
as dehydrating, smoking, fermenting, and jam-making,
the chefs behind the Hamnvakten neighbourhood
On a visit to Stockholm, B E TSY A N D R E WS restaurant Växthuset (prix fixe from `5,324; restaurang
meets a group of chefs who are reimagining vaxthuset.se) had preserved every bit of fresh produce
their menus around the concept of zero-waste they could from Sweden’s growing season—roughly May through
cooking, turning kitchen scraps into dishes that October—to brighten the December gloom. Bracing horseradish
S H U T T E R STO C K
are appetising—and good for the planet. powder and pickled mustard seeds balanced earthy beet carpaccio
dappled with sweet pear jam. Confit of grilled mushrooms got a
sly pop of baby shiso. Jerusalem-artichoke chips and sauerkraut
mayo amped up the umami of cafe whose name translates to “waste
smoked tempeh. It could’ve been kitchen.” A third of Swedish food is
a meal served at any fine-dining thrown away, Lundin told me, adding
restaurant—except it made liberal that it constitutes 10 per cent of the
use of kitchen scraps, with every country’s emissions. “It’s more
vegetable peel or herb stem utilised than air travel.”
in some form. He’s right: generally speaking,
I found a similar sense of food waste is responsible for higher
vivaciousness everywhere I ate in emissions than the airline industry.
the Swedish capital. Outside, the So despite the fact that I’d flown to
clouds hung low in the frigid air and Stockholm from my home in New
the sky was dark by 3 pm. But York City, I felt I was offsetting some
inside, the restaurants felt positive of my carbon footprint by patronising
and vibrant. This city on the Baltic restaurants that are minimising food
Sea is in the throes of a no-waste waste. Since 2015, Lundin has rescued
dining revolution that combines more than 35 tons of imperfect,
age-old Swedish ingenuity with surplus, or mispackaged food from
21st-century concern about our markets and restaurants.
impact on the planet, and it’s When we met at his cafe in the
pushing chefs to get creative. Söderhallarna food hall, it was fika
Some credit goes to the Swedish time. We took our Swedish coffee
government, which has committed break over cups brewed from beans
to meeting the United Nations’ salvaged in January. “The market
Sustainable Development Goal of was throwing them away because
halving food waste by 2030, and some they were labelled ‘Christmas
to the world’s most famous climate coffee,’ but it’s nice arabica,” Lundin
activist. “Greta Thunberg has made said. At his cafe, you might get an
us more aware,” said Filip Lundin, the organic broccoli soup made entirely
founder of Sopköket (entrées `820; with ingredients diverted from the
sopkoket.se), a catering service and scrap heap. Your portion might be
We need to help chefs

in their efforts to treat
food more sustainably
by shifting our thinking.
COURTESY OF VAXTHUSE T
Rosendals Trädgård, an
urban farm that grows At Växthuset, ice
produce and composts cream is topped with
waste for several a fruit compote and
Stockholm restaurants. toasted almonds.
The ljusgården, or light
yard, at the Sveavägen
location of Urban Deli,
a group of multipurpose
food spaces.
GU IDE
THE
Urban Deli’s creative director Jessie GETTING THERE

Sommarström with her partner, Gordon
Grimlund, and their son Justus. Finnair (finnair.com)
CLO C KW ISE FROM TOP LEF T: ANNA HÅLL AMS/COURT ESY OF URBAN DEL I; FREDRIK ROLLMAN/COURT ESY OF URBAN DEL I; COURTESY OF RESTAURANG OXENST IERNAN
and Turkish Airlines
(turkishairlines.com)
operate various
smaller than an American expects, but
connecting flights
that’s another strategy for decreasing from New Delhi
waste. “If you want more, extra is free,” and Mumbai to
Lundin said, “but people often want Stockholm.
less than they think.”
Sopköket is casual, but fine dining
represents Stockholm’s no-waste
vanguard. On the top-floor restaurant
of the chic photography museum
Fotografiska (prix fixe from `6,635; Salsify, a root
fotografiska.com), the maître d’ showed vegetable that can be
harvested in winter,
off jars of kombucha brewed from at the restaurant
kitchen leftovers. “All the staff have Oxenstiernan.
them at home, and relatives of the staff
have the relatives of the kombucha, and animal, not just the nice parts,” said se), Stockholm’s most famous
their relatives have them,” he boasted Sandfridsson, who led the kitchen at the urban farm, located inside Kungliga
of the team’s propagation efforts. “We time of my visit. “It’s a new world if you’re Djurgården, the Royal National City
upcycle as much as possible.” an old-school chef.” Park. The biodynamic education centre
Uneaten bread goes to a nearby Yet these methods hark back to and café was started in 1983 “by two
brewery, which uses it as an ingredient preindustrial times. “People didn’t gardeners who wanted to save the world
in a beer named Echo; spent grain and have refrigeration,” Sandfridsson with carrots,” Victoria Lagne, its head of
sediment are dried and milled into a flour explained. “We’d pickle in season to communications, told me. We walked
that goes back to Fotografiska to make save produce for winter when it’s nice through plant-filled greenhouses, then
more bread. A local ceramics company to have something that tastes like out to the garden where, in a fenced-off
grinds down shells from servings of summer.” My dirty martini, made with area, research was under way.
oysters and mussels to incorporate pickled plum juice and gin steeped “If we divide all arable land available
into tableware. “It’s a circle that never with foraged lingonberries, warmed me to the projected world population of
ends,” chef Gustaf Sandfridsson said. right up. I was dining in Fotografiska’s 2050, that’s just under half an acre
The kitchen embodies the idea that casual Bistro Bread & Wine (entrées per human on Earth,” she explained.
sustainability can still be pleasurable `1,065–`1,474), where the savoury jam Rosendals was experimenting with
in plant-forward dishes such as baked in the cheese course was made from crops and animals to measure the
cabbage with pickled cabbage trimmings the trimmings of red onions used in amount of food that could be produced
in sorrel beurre blanc dusted with dried, preparations in the prix fixe restaurant. in that space. Their findings showed
smoked lamb’s heart. “We use animals The next morning, I walked to a need to curb our reliance on animal
more like a taste, and we take the whole Rosendals Trädgård (rosendalstradgard. proteins. “We need fat in our diets,
so you’d eat dairy. But in such a small
space, what people consume would
have to be what a tenth of a cow can
give,” she said. “We are developing a
curriculum for teaching the public an
understanding of proportions.”
I was still hungry even after
eating a massive hunk of Rosendals’
heritage-grain sourdough, so I made
my way to the quiet neighbourhood of
Östermalm. There, former Fotografiska
chef Elvira Lindqvist has launched
Oxenstiernan (entrées `1,393–`2,130;
oxenstiernan.se) in an 18th-century
farmhouse. After creamy Jerusalem-
artichoke soup garnished with herbs
and a swirl of fermented celeriac juice,
I had the only protein on the menu:
a smoky fish cake made with pike The dining venues at the photography museum
perch raised sustainably in a closed- Fotografiska minimise food waste through
system aquafarm. My “intermezzo”—a partnerships with other local businesses. Bottom:
The beet carpaccio on Växthuset’s menu is accented
croquette filled with leek fondue—had with dill, rye crisp, and pickled mustard seed.
been made with the allium’s underused
dark-green tops.
“Most farmers are used to selling It’s a mission she shares with another “We inform guests because we want
a little piece of a crop. But on most of Stockholm’s prominent female to make it easy for them to make
vegetables, everything is edible,” chefs, Jessie Sommarström, the creative sustainable choices without telling them
Lindqvist said. “I tell farmers, ‘Send me director of Urban Deli (urbandeli.se), what’s right or wrong,” she said.
the whole plant.’ If I can lift different a chain of four groceries that house An even more diplomatic
parts of a vegetable to a level that buzzy restaurants and even, at the approach was in evidence at Bonnie’s
makes people understand something Sveavägen location, a hotel. To reach (entrées `2,375–`4,014; bankhotel.
they never had before, it’s a way to the dining room there, I walked through se). The restaurant serves as the main
change mindsets.” the grocery section, past pots of living dining room of the Bank Hotel (doubles
herbs raised sustainably year-round at from `22,034), which has received the
Grönska, Stockholm’s massive vertical independent Green Key certification
F R O M TO P : K A S JA G Ö R AN S S O N/ CO U RTE SY O F F OTO G R A F I S K A ; C O URT ESY O F VAXTHUS E T
farm. The delicate fish fritters I ordered for sustainability. “We talk a lot about
were the result of a collaboration how to have a five-star standard and
with the nonprofit Axfoundation, still minimise food waste,” chef Fanny
which has developed a way to process Rönnblom told me over a lunch of
brax, an indigenous lake fish that has broccoli soup and beef carpaccio. The
been underutilised in part because its kitchen composts and uses leftovers—the
boniness makes it tedious to prepare. morning’s saffron buns become the
Next came the carapace of an afternoon’s biscotti and also go into the
enormous crab, a creature whose claws evening’s ice cream, for instance.
are often the only part consumed. I did Rönnblom admitted it can be
my best to leave no waste, devouring difficult to balance those conscientious
its meat, roe, and unctuous fat, which measures with the level of luxury guests
some chefs might have removed. expect. “We have to have strawberries
Throughout the meal, I sipped from a on the breakfast buffet 365 days a
cocktail menu listing ingredients such year,” she said. After talking to her, I
as “rescue cucumber,” “rescue orange understood that we, as travellers, need
Falernum,” and “rescue raspberry shrub.” to help chefs in their efforts to treat
It might seem like little more than a cute food more sustainably by shifting our
description, but on Sommarström’s thinking. And as the restaurants I visited
menu, “rescue” has a serious purpose. proved, there’s no reason not to.
1 2
3
ST YL E
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6. Mop Lapiz Drops, Kairo, ` 6,100; kairojewellery.com 7. V-Tribute VE2P00622, Versace; ` 99,500, kamalwatch.com
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These blue outfits will be your perfect companions for all kinds of outings, from brunches to mall errands . BY RAL AN KI THAN
1. Short Sleeves Linen Shirt With Cuban Collar, GAP, ` 2,299, ajio.com 2. Side Neck Button Shirt, Primal Gray, ` 4,500; primalgray.com 3. Light
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com 8. Crossbody Bag with Detachable Strap, Lapis Bard, ` 16,500; luxe.ajio.com 9. V-10 Lace up Sneakers, VEJA, ` 13,400; ajio.com
CHEC K
EXCERPTS FROM THE INTERVIEW:
How did the concept of

bespoke tailoring come
ST YL E
to you when you launched

Sarah & Sandeep?
We wanted an age-old
concept to be revived in a
contemporary format. After
travelling and exploring
different artists and their
craft, we wanted to introduce
luxury tailoring mixed with
fashion-forward design
ideologies. That’s always at
the very core of every piece
we come up with.
Tell us more about

starting a couture line.
It is just a more narrative
approach to design, with
a little more perspective
to each piece. We are now
shifting our focus towards
making it more art driven.
Sandeep Gonsalves What served as the inspiration

for your modern, sharply
tailored wedding wear designs
VISIONARY DRESSMAKER for women?

Positions of power. We’ve been
catering to similar visuals for
Label Sarah & Sandeep is making a powerful statement in contemporary wear in
our menswear, so mixing the
India with sharp cuts and minimal designs. In a conversation with RAL AN KI THAN , same sensibilities with a touch
Sandeep Gonsalves, co-founder and director of Sarah & Sandeep, tells us about the of feminine seduction brought
inception of the label, redefining the concept of bespoke tailoring in India, and more. up a new mix for us.
THE ESSENCE of every Sarah

& Sandeep design lies in
their meticulously thought-
out design process and
commitment to innovation and
craftsmanship. They believe in
creating clothes that are not
only stylish but also reflect
the trends of the future. The
designer duo studies and
works with the finest fabrics
from around the world, and
seamlessly blend modern
silhouettes with traditional
elements. Their designs push
boundaries and set new
standards, making them a
trusted name in contemporary
COURTESY OF SARAH & SANDEEP
luxury fashion.
The Concept Mock Lapel

Nude Ensemble is a
double-breasted jacket
with faux peak lapels.
and luxury. This makes a there’s a lot you can absorb
market more niche. We know along the process.
where we stand, but we’ve
seen a seismic shift in the Which is a place that you would
younger customers and how love to explore for textiles?
they perceive innovation in We have been exploring Italy
the field. for years, but I think India has
much more to offer than what
How has your style evolved we’re already exposed to. We
over the years? really want to shine the light
We are just more open- on more things from India with
minded. We realised that our own spin on it.
fashion is an ever-changing
business, but as long as you What’s on your travel
bring your own style to the bucket list?
moment, you’ll find your place From a cultural point of view,
regardless of the timeline. it’s Japan, Kenya, and Cuba.
Clockwise from left: From a leisure point of view,
A menswear couture suit from
How does travel influence New Zealand, Philippines,
the AXIS fashion show by
you as a designer? and Canary Islands.
Sarah & Sandeep; the designer
duo blends luxury tailoring with It goes beyond the typical
fashion-forward design visual inspiration. The diverse Which is your favourite
How do you accommodate ideologies; the New SSphere interactions and different destination and why?
differences in the creative collection is a combination of ideologies I encounter during Thailand. It has the best
process? structured suits and relaxed my travels fuel my innovation. of both worlds. And most
I think we work best in groups. athleisure wear; Gonsalves’ Every country brings its own importantly, it just makes
Our design meetings are more favourite destination is Thailand. strength to the forefront, and us feel good.
like focus groups, during which
we bounce off initial concepts
and ideas, and transform them
into whole truths. Design is
subjective, so the creative
direction was very clear in my
head. I know no good idea is
executable without a bunch of
other people helping bring it to
life. The less you think about
this being a business and
making it more art focussed,
lesser you worry about the
tangible problems attached to
the former association.
What are your thoughts

on bespoke contemporary
tailoring in India, a country
where the fashion landscape
is primarily dominated by
B OT TO M : S H U T T E R STO C K
traditional designs?
The notions of contemporary
design in India is as varied
as the people who live in
it. The macro landscape is
always going to lean on the
traditional concept of design
PULSE OF
THE WILD
WAT C H E S
Nature has always served as a source of inspiration for

watchmakers. These timepieces combine exquisite
craftsmanship and beauty of the great outdoors, and
pay homage to the natural wonders of the world.
BY RAL AN KI THAN
Tropical Bird Repeater

JAQUET DROZ
The Tropical Bird Repeater timepiece showcases exquisite
craftsmanship and intricate detailing. Its white mother-
of-pearl dial, delicately hand-engraved and hand-painted,
exudes elegance. The automaton animation incorporated
into the watch design is a true marvel, showcasing a stunning
display of a peacock, tropical leaves, hummingbird, toucan,
dragonflies, and a waterfall. Price on request
Aquaracer X Naomi Osaka Happy Sport Métiers d’Art

TAG HEUER CHOPARD
Housed in a polished and fine Crafted with ethical 18-carat
brushed steel case with a diameter rose gold, the dial of this
of 36 mm, this watch strikes a timepiece showcases
perfect balance between durability a mesmerising marine
and style. It features two straps, background motif created using
a green rubber one that ensures opal, blue, and green textured
durability; and another additional mother-of-pearl marquetry.
strap that is made from fishing nets Adding a touch of whimsy, a
and is 100 per cent recyclable and turtle mobile in ethical rose
recycled, reflecting Naomi Osaka’s gold, embellished with a
commitment to the environment. natural aventurine cabochon
` 3,67,350 and brilliant cut diamonds,
gracefully moves across the
dial. Price on request
RM 26-01 Tourbillon Panda

RICHARD MILLE
With a limited edition of
Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteelTM just 15 pieces, the watch
Verde Smeraldo (PAM01287) features a manual winding
PANERAI tourbillon movement with
This timepiece is made out of recycled material hours and minutes. The
corresponding to 52 per cent of the total weight of the panda sits in a bamboo
watch. For the first time, Panerai has also introduced forest featuring leaves and
polished ceramic material. Additionally, the dial bark hand-sculpted from
has a polished finish and colour gradient, giving its yellow gold and painted by
appearance a surprising dimension. Price on request hand. Price on request
MONSOON HAUL
G A D G ETS
Whether you decide to stay in on rainy weekends or head out to
explore the countryside, here’s some gear to make monsoons
more memorable. BY VA IBHAV SHARMA
LAPTOP
MACBOOK AIR 15
The new Macbook Air 15 is just what people
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SMARTPHONE
GOOGLE PIXEL 7A
It is one of the best
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The specs are tasty—
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But like other Pixels,
FULL FRAME CAMERA this isn’t just about the
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Canon EOS R100 software experience
Mirrorless cameras keep getting better. The new EOS and the camera smarts,
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R100 is super compact and lightweight (Canon says night mode and
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The folks over at OnePlus have
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SMART DEVICE
ZEMISMART SMART HOME HUB
If you’re all in on Apple but hate how hard it is to
find Homekit smart home gear, there’s good news
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Zigbee devices right into the Apple Home app,
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Smarts switches, door
sensors, presence
sensors—you’ll find
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Meera Muzaffar Ali
P EO PL E
FASHION DESIGNER AND AUTHOR
CUSTODIAN OF
CULTURE
Meera Muzaffar Ali hails from the erstwhile ruling family of
Kotwara in Lucknow. In her book Dining With The Nawabs,
she combines her insider knowledge with in-depth
research of India and Pakistan to preserve the culinary
history of past sovereigns. The gourmand gets candid with
C H I RAG M O H A N T Y SAM A L about her travels and the
novel fine dining experience she hosts in Gurugram.
Dining With The Nawabs and Kamadhia in Gujarat.

reveals culinary secrets Fortunately, they were
of erstwhile rulers. How living in Mumbai. They had
difficult was it to compile? a lot of photographs. Then
When I started, I thought it I met the royal family from
wouldn’t be that difficult to Bhopal, Paigah family of
put together a few recipes Hyderabad, and the Rampur
and get the book going. family. All of them had a
But I realised that recipes rich repository of recipes
are not how you deal with and anecdotes to offer. The die because people are but understanding the
the story of cuisines. It Arcot family in Tamil Nadu fond of food, and they will tradition and preserving it
was important to know the and the Zainabad family travel anywhere to eat the is important.
families, their culture, their from Rann of Kutch had speciality of that region.
past and present. So many an interesting approach to You have to put it out Tell us about your journey
layers revealed themselves food. I also went across there so that people know to Pakistan.
to me as I started the work, the border to Pakistan, it exists, and that is easy That journey wasn’t
and it became extensive. Bahawalpur, and then to with social media these challenging at all. People
Khairpur in Sindh. days. My aim though is to opened their homes for
Tell us about some of the preserve traditional cuisine me, my photographer Karim
places you travelled to for What’s the best way of because people today are Puri, and my publisher Priya
the research. preserving our culinary creating fusion concepts. Kapoor, in both Bahawalpur
One of the families we history and heritage? One can twist a recipe and Khairpur. They took us
chose was from Surat Culinary history cannot to anything they want, to every nook and cranny of
their state. Food is a great
way to break barriers.
FROM TO P : HINDUSTAN T IMES/GE T T Y IMAGES ; COURTESY OF ROL I B O OKS
Tell us about Maashra by

Kotwara, your restaurant.
At Maashra (instagram.com/
maashra), which is a tented
dining experience at our
farm on the border of Delhi
and Gurugram, our aim is to
recreate Awadhi-Lucknowi
cuisine, especially the way
we have seen it in Kotwara.
We have chefs who have
been with the family for
generations. You can book
the dining experience in
advance. We share a menu,
The author believes food is discuss the menu with the
a great way to break barriers. guests, decide on what they
Above: Through her book, want to eat depending on
Meera Ali aims to preserve the weather, and then our
traditional cuisine. chefs whip it up.
P EO PL E
From top: ‘Lick It Up’ is one of Anand's signature dishes; a

quintessential Gaggan Anand dining experience involves theatre
and a roller coaster of flavours, textures, and temperatures.
What inspired you to take up craving something, I’ll only

culinary arts despite your eat that. Right now, it’s the
initial interest in music? different kinds of chaat you
I think music had no future find in Delhi.
if I were not in Bollywood.
With food, I felt connected, What according to you is
at peace, and fell in love. lacking in the fine-dining
experience in India when
What does a quintessential compared to its global
Gaggan Anand dining counterparts?
experience look like? Trying to be another chef
FROM LEF T: JI T TARAT JINTA SIRIKUL ; COURTESY OF GAGGAN ANAND; SHUT TER STO CK
[It is] theatre, opera, madness, of the world. They lack
craziness, roller coaster their own character. They
of flavours, textures, and want to do foraging and
temperatures—all together. fermentation; they want to
be like Noma. Why can’t you
Gaggan Anand Your menus and serving style
have often stood out—for
instance, the 25-course
be yourself and put your
thoughts out? Don’t idolise,
be yourself.
CHEF tasting menu made up of
emojis or the 'Lick It Up' How have your travels
dish that you served at Hyatt inspired your menus and
FLAVOUR NINJA
Regency Delhi. How do you understanding of global
come up with these ideas? cuisines, especially
We live in a very pretentious Asian fare?
Gaggan Anand's eponymous restaurant in Bangkok found era, and I want to make them Travel is the most
its place again on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2023. [diners] more human and inspirational thing; it is how
In a chat with S I M R RA N G I L L , Anand talks about the humbler. And during COVID, you learn about different
didn’t we realise that humility cultures, their food and
fine-dining experience in India, comfort food, and more.
is important? eating habits. What might
be a disaster here could
What is your comfort food? be the tastiest dish in
Dal, chawal, roti, bhindi ki another country. Culture
sabji—all simple things. If I’m is very important.
Dhruv Oberoi
EXECUTIVE CHEF, OLIVE BAR & KITCHEN
MASTERSTROKE
For Dhruv Oberoi, the priority has been to create global
flavours with local ingredients. The executive chef of Olive Bar
& Kitchen talks to RO OPLEKHA DAS about stumbling upon
the food industry, its evolution, and his favourite ingredients.
How did your journey in the taste and flavour take

culinary industry begin? precedence for me now.
Initially, I pursued interior
design and briefly explored What dish do you highly
the cabin crew industry too, recommend for a first-time
but that didn’t work out. That’s visitor to Olive?
when I moved and started I highly recommend
my journey as a management trying the amla salad with
trainee at Olive Bar & Kitchen burrata, accompanied by
(olivebarandkitchen.com). a side of smoked duck
It was during my time at for non-vegetarians.
CLCOKW ISE FROM TO P : COURTESY OF DHRUV OBEROI (2); SHUT TERSTO CK
the Japanese restaurant, Ai,

that I discovered a genuine What kind of ingredients do you have even curated a speciality India was embracing foreign
passion for the culinary arts. use in your dishes and where called ‘Turmeric Latte’. One cuisines. Sourcing exotic items
The meticulous nature and are they sourced from? of my signature dishes is a like caviar or imported fish
ingredient-driven approach I use a couple of ingredients, cheese soufflé that features was considered cool. However,
of Japanese cuisine deeply and every ingredient has a Zarai Cheese sourced from the culinary landscape has
resonated with me. story of its own. Some of Darima Farms in the Himalayas, evolved significantly since
them are the Bhavnagri mirch, adding a unique touch to the then. We have become more
How would you describe your loved by the people of Delhi culinary experience. enlightened in terms of menu
cooking style? for its delightful flavour; sea curation, prioritising local
In the last five to six years, buckthorn, also known as Leh How has the culinary landscape ingredients and traditional
I have transitioned from berry; and aam aada, a variety changed from when you started techniques. In the past,
being a pretentious chef to of ginger with a raw mango-like at Olive to now? we used our own grains,
an honest one, prioritising a flavour, sourced from Odisha. When I joined Olive, the trend vegetables, and fruits, but
flavourful dining experience. Fresh turmeric also finds its was to incorporate ingredients we had lost touch with that
While I still value aesthetics, way into my dishes, and I from all over the world, as heritage. Thanks to the
influence of Western chefs and
social media, the focus has
Oberoi recommends visiting Vietnam for its food.
Right: Chef Oberoi has a sweet tooth, and his shifted towards sustainability
menu features 12 desserts. and conscious ingredient
choices now. Our menus strike
a balance between freshness,
excitement, and authenticity,
transitioning from Chilean
sea bass to locally sourced
Himalayan trout.
What are your top three

culinary destination
recommendations?
Japan, Peru, and Vietnam.
What destinations are on

your travel bucket list?
My bucket list definitely
has Japan on top, followed
by Austria for its desserts
because I have a sweet
tooth—my menu has
almost 12 desserts and
people call me crazy!
Massimo Bot tura
P EO PL E
CHEF
Do you have any favourite
CULINARY MAESTRO Indian dishes or cuisines?

To me, India is a special
place. In a way, it’s like
Chef Massimo Bottura got the world acquainted with Italian cuisine that extends far
Italy—deeply cultural and
beyond pizza and pasta. The culinary genius speaks to A N U S H KA G O EL about the traditional, with completely
importance of sustainability in cooking, his trip to India, and more. diverse food, spices, and
approaches as you move
from one place to the
other. Every experience
here makes me go ‘wow’.
We had lunch at The Oberoi
Amarvilas in Agra, and it
blew my mind. Every single
place I’ve visited here [for
food] is just amazing.
How do your travels and

dining experiences shape
new recipes?
There are many different
aspects [to it]. My way
of cooking is extremely
contemporary, and it
depends on the menu
we create. For example,
we serve this cod [fish],
called If I’m Wrong, I’m
Right. The dish has a green
curry, which we rebuilt
in a contemporary but
mild way for the Western
palate. But, if I didn’t
experience that kind of
food and use of spices in
Thailand and Indonesia,
I would never be able to
do that [transform it for
the Western palate]. So,
I feel it’s important to let
the local chefs teach you
something. You can then
reinterpret the ingredients
and create something new.
How do you decide on the

theme for your special
menus?
My menus are extremely
complex. Right now, we
have a menu called I’m
Not Here. It ends with
Bye—Massimo Bottura,
C O U RT E SY O F M A S SI M O B OT T U R A
Bob Dylan, and the

Francescana Family. The
guests are like, “What!
Bob Dylan is on the
menu?” We also look at
seasons. For autumn,
imagine ingredients like
mushrooms, truffles,
pumpkin, and grapes.
Bottura’s Casa Maria Luigia is a reimagined 18th-century villa located
outside the city of Modena in Italy. Right: The culinary maestro believes it is
important to respect the ingredients and buy them from the right people.
How do you conceptualise always used to tell me

the names of dishes and not to leave the table
menus at your restaurant? until I finished my food.
The names are a way We’re putting strain on the
to express your food. planet by using electricity,
There was a dish on the human capital, and water
past menu called An Eel to produce food. In the
Swimming Up The Po River. end, we burn the food and
Po is a big river, and due become the first cause of
to climate change, for the climate change.
first time, I saw sand at the At Francescana
bottom of it. So, the idea of (Osteria Francescana, certified with less than flavour. It’s important to
an eel swimming up [came his restaurant; five per cent waste. This respect the ingredients
FROM LEF T: COURTESY OF CA SA MARI A LUIGI A ; COURTESY OF MAS SIMO B OT T URA
from there]. On another osteriafrancescana.it), is also why we created and buy them from the
menu, we had a dish Casa Maria Luigia ‘Food For Soul’. Last year, right people.
named Strawberry Fields, (casamarialuigia.com), we involved 1,05,000
But Not Forever. Another and all our restaurants, volunteers and chefs What are some of your
dish was called If I’m there’s a culture I from around the world. favourite ingredients?
Wrong, I’m Right. All this is exercise. When we refine We repurposed 950 tons With the idea of being
a part of the storytelling the ingredients for a menu, of food and prepared more sustainable, I
experience; the latter is we have waste. So, we 25,50,000 meals. That have rediscovered the
the story of my life. challenge chefs who come food would have otherwise pleasures of working with
from all over the world been wasted and burnt. vegetables. In Italy, we
You’ve often spoken to bring their culture to have so many plates with
about the importance of us in the form of food. What are your tips to vegetables. I keep saying
zero-waste kitchens. We get to experience elevate home-cooked food that I am a man of good
Does it leave room for something special. Like to a Michelin-level plate? sense. I cannot leave my
a creative menu? the panzerotto from Sicily, The flavour always farmers or the people I
Globally, we produce food which is a fried pizza matters; how you arrive work with on the side.
for over 12 billion people. stuffed with mozzarella at one flavour or the other Small producers have a
There are about seven and tomato. Instead of doesn’t matter. For me, very ethical approach
billion people on Earth, of this [stuffing], we prepare it’s different. I have to be to what they do. So, for
which about 860 million and sauté whatever is left, perfect, so I analyse all me, it’s not just about an
don’t have anything to stuff it into the pizza, and the techniques and things ingredient, but about the
eat. My grandmother fry it. Our restaurants are I can use to reach that approach as well.
FROM SHOTS
TO SUCCESS
India’s alcobev industry is one of the
fastest-growing ones globally, show recent
studies. R I A AN JAC O B G EO R G E talks to
Cities likes Mumbai, Goa,
some of the insiders for insights into the Bengaluru, and Delhi are seeing
prevailing trends. a profusion of highly specialised
bartender-led spots.
A
CCORDING TO REPORTS, India’s alcobev “The Indian consumer now understands that a
segment is among the fastest growing cocktail is not only a drink—it is about the atmosphere,
segment in the country. Underpinning customer interaction, and the craft behind a great
these statistics are a host of paradigm drinking experience,” Eadie adds. No surprise then
shifts in terms of consumption behaviour. that cities likes Mumbai, Goa, Bengaluru, and Delhi are
Premiumisation, for instance, is the trend seeing a profusion of highly specialised bartender-led
leader, contributing to higher turnovers. There is also the spots, where bar owners acknowledge the draw that
rise of the cocktail culture, a shift of demographics, and their bartenders have.
the mushrooming of homegrown spirits and brands.
IS EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING THE WAY FORWARD?
RISE OF THE INDIAN BARTENDER Alcohol stakeholders like Diageo, Moët Hennessey, and
“People are now respecting bartenders like they’re Pernod Ricard are now investing heavily in experiential
respecting chefs,” says Evonne Eadie, head of World marketing. Pernod Ricard’s exclusive Royal Salute bar
Class & National Advocacy Lead, Diageo India. “We’re at Taj Lake Palace Udaipur, the by-invite-only club
FROM TO P : SHUT TERSTO CK ; COURTESY OF TA J L AKE PAL ACE UDA I PUR

witnessing a bartender revolution where the consumer
in India is now appreciating the skill and creativity in Taj Lake Palace Udaipur houses Pernod
mixology,” she says. There is a massive shift towards Ricard’s exclusive Royal Salute bar.
premium cocktails in India. Be it Hennessey doing
social media campaigns on cognac cocktails or Johnnie
Walker hosting cocktail nights in major cities or
Godawan showcasing single malt paired cocktails,
there is so much buzz around cocktails.
At the very core of this cocktail culture in India is
Diageo’s annual World Class bartenders competition
that gives a platform to bartenders all over India.
Following a rigorous process, one India representative
is chosen to showcase at the World Class finals. Last
year’s Sydney finals was attended by Delhi’s Sahil
Essani, while this year’s edition will take place in Sao
Paolo, Brazil, with finalist Aashie Bhatnagar.
Clockwise from above: Youngsters now prefer to go to
innovative bars; tequila is all the rage at Indian bars,
largely due to popular culture; Glenmorangie’s Delicious
Design Project was an immersive brand experience.
Le Cercle for Pernod Ricard’s select clients, and Johnnie

Walker Black Label’s ‘Symphony of Flavours’ immersive
trip to Scotland are examples.
In one of the most talked about events this year,
the first Indian single malt, Godawan, invited a set of
VIPs to Rajasthan to be part of a conservation initiative
for the godawan bird. This was in partnership with
HH Chaitanya Raj Singh, the Maharaja of Jaisalmer,
and legendary wildlife and heritage photographer
Amit Pasricha, who auctioned his work at the event.
The idea was to showcase the ultra-luxe limited
edition Godawan 100. Shweta Jain, chief business
development officer of Diageo India and South Asia,
says, “This experiential event for Godawan 100 is an
ode to the conservation of the rare bird; the bottle Food Talk India says, “The younger generation today is
is a bespoke, personalised, and illustrated piece—a drinking better. Most youngsters today are drinking less
collectible if you will.” but spending more on alcohol, which have an element
We also got chatting with Vishesh Sahni, founder & of provenance, sustainability, even health.” Suri also
CLO C KW ISE FROM LEF T: COURTE Y OF GLENMORANGIE DEL ICIOUS DESIGN PROJECT; SHUT TERSTO CK (2)
CEO of White Marketing, the market leader in alcohol- points out that the cocktail culture has boomed, but, in
led experiences. His company currently works with his opinion, youngsters prefer to go to more innovative
the likes of Diageo, Pernod Ricard, Moët Hennessey bars and not to hotels.
to create experiential events for UHNIs. “The only way
to bring alive any brand narrative, from a marketing EXPLORATION OF NEW SPIRITS
point of view, is to conceptualise immersive brand Kimberly Pereira is the brand ambassador for India’s
experiences,” he says adding, “Today’s customers first aged 100 per cent agave spirit, Maya Pistola
understand that a great product is a prerequisite, Agave Pura. “It has taken a lot for the Indian market to
but what they seek is a creative medium, event, or understand the difference between a tequila, mezcal,
experience to truly have meaningful conversations.” and agave. However, people are starting to appreciate
Sahni’s White Marketing recently did the launch it. Agave cocktails are on the rise in India and we
and activations for Le Cercle India, a rarefied club of are featuring it on a lot of menus,” she says. Most
UHNIs, as well as the Glenmorangie Delicious Design importantly, agave is no longer a ‘shot’ based drink; it is
Project and Blender’s Pride Fashion Tour. enjoyed in sips, like whisky or cognac, Pereira notices
as a major trend. Tequila, similarly, is all the rage at
NEW DEMOGRAPHICS Indian bars, largely due to popular culture, and western
Alcobev industry stakeholders are quick to point out celebrities consuming it. Suri tells us that while tequila
the changing demographics of Indian consumers. What is growing in India, “there is a 150 per cent import
was not the case a decade ago is increasingly the case duty that makes it rather expensive and not affordable
now—younger audiences walking into luxury hotels to to a large chunk of consumers. Besides that, we also
consume premium spirits or raking in high-value bills see a proliferation of liquids that we hadn’t seen much
at upscale bars. From a sociological point of view, this before, like Aperol, Campari, and even a whole host of
trend is very important. Shuchir Suri, the founder of Indian-made seltzers and ciders,” she adds.
thr theugh
lens
Kenya
WILD AND FREE
On a 10-day jaunt across the savannahs of Kenya, YA SH KATKAR is humbled
by spectacular wildlife and the indomitable spirit of Masai people.
From left: A Masai woman’s vibrant attire and handcrafted jewellery catch Amboseli’s
golden light; a lioness unwinds as the sun sets in Mara North Conservancy.
A flamboyance of flamingos at the
shallow salt flats during sunrise,
at Amboseli National Park.
Clockwise from opposite: Tourists watch as a family of elephants crosses the dry
lakebed of Kitirua Conservancy; Masai people peacefully coexist with the region’s
wildlife; a herd of giraffes traverse the dry lake bed in search of water.
Clockwise from
above: African
sunsets during
summer are a sight
to behold; a pair
of sub-adult lions
gaze curiously; a
mother and baby
elephant wander
the savannah
during sunrise.
T
HERE I WAS, sitting in a tiny bush plane, looking at
the vast wild plains of Masai Mara below me. I was
bidding adieu to the savannah, albeit with a heavy
heart. On the plane with me were seven strangers that
I met for the first time at the beginning of the trip. In
the evenings that we spent together, we would gather
around the bonfire, share stories, laugh, and eat delicious food.
We had turned into a family.
Everyone on the plane was silent, probably coming to terms
with the fact that our wonderful time in the Kenyan bush had
come to an end. It did feel like the trip of a lifetime. It ticked
every box of what makes travel so special. We were blessed with
mind-blowing encounters, one after the other, for 10 straight
days. Every day, we would rise at the crack of dawn and drive
out into the savannah in search of animal sightings.
We began our journey in Amboseli National Park, one of
Kenya’s most popular parks, where we watched mighty herds of
elephants cross the dry lakebed of Kitirua Conservancy in search
of food and water. And then in Masai Mara, we spent our days in
the company of elusive big cats.
We also visited a local Masai village in Amboseli, where we
were welcomed with open hearts. I learned that beneath the
superficial differences, there are common fundamental aspects
of human life that connect us all. During our time there, we also
discovered the resilience of the Masai people. From learning to
coexist with wildlife to preserving their culture during difficult
times, their spirit seemed to be as vibrant as their attire.
I was aware of how special these moments were while I was
living them. It was as if time was passing in slow motion. I had
spent 10 days completely disconnected from the outside world
and reached metanoia. It was more than just a photography
expedition; it was an exploration of my spirit and the raw
beauty of Kenya.
Sutaria enjoys eating what the
locals eat, when travelling.
ON HER: Outfit, Sureena

Chowdhri; earrings and
bangles, Amrapali Jewels;
rings, Silverstreak; anklet,
Abhilasha Pret Jewelry; all
prices on request.
Bollywood actor Tara Sutaria is also
a closeted home chef who spends her
downtime researching new recipes.
In a conversation with BAYAR JAIN, the
cover star spills the beans on her foodie
avatar, creative journeys, and more.
Produced by BAYAR JAIN AND ISHIKA LAUL

Photography by RAHUL JHANGIANI
Assisted by DEEPAK YADAV
Styled by MEAGAN CONCESSIO
Assisted by HARSHITA SAMDARIYA AND BIDIPTO DAS
Hair by HIRAL BHATIA
Makeup by SHRADDHA MEHTA
Location: SILLY, MUMBAI
a rollercoaster ride to finish this month’s issue. It ended with a cover shoot in rainy
Mumbai, a city that resonates well with this month’s cover star and actor, Tara
Sutaria. And it was only fitting to meet with this hobbyist chef for Travel+Leisure
India & South Asia’s food issue.
“I absolutely adore cooking! I picked it up as a serious hobby during the many
lockdowns. [The lockdowns] helped me grow my deep love for food,” Sutaria says.
The actor’s social media profile is enough evidence of her foodie side; the eight million
followers on her Instagram account will attest to it. Be it pictures of a juicy burger, or
a lavish Italian spread cooked by the actor and her twin sister Pia, Sutaria’s account is
dotted with pictures of food from around the world. Her favourite cuisine, however,
remains Italian. “I love eating a simple five-minute spaghetti that I cook at home. It has
a spicy sauce with some delicious cheese on top,” the budding cook reveals. Rajasthan’s
famed junglee maas (a slow-cooked mutton curry) is a close second.
However, her encounters with food are not restricted just to her home kitchen; the
leading lady has sampled food around the globe. “I have been fortunate to travel to
some of the most beautiful parts of the world. I remember having the best meals in
Paris and Japan,” reminisces Sutaria, adding, “I enjoy eating what the locals eat. I feel it’s
indicative of the place.”
Upon learning more about her gastronomic adventures, I can’t help but wonder
how she maintains her diet while on the go. “I have never felt the need to go on a
diet,” Sutaria says. “Of course, I try to be mindful about what I put inside my body.
When you’re young, your body is going through a lot of changes. So, it’s important to
understand what works for you and what doesn’t,” the 27-year-old adds.
On the creative front, the former Disney India ambassador found her calling for
the arts early on. In the early 2010s, Sutaria forayed into the television industry as a
video jockey. She has to her credit two successful sitcoms—Oye Jassie and The Suite
Life of Karan & Kabir. Around the same time, she was also recording music in India;
performing at solo concerts in London, Tokyo, and Mumbai; and playing the lead role
in Raëll Padamsee’s production of the musical Grease. Add to this, years of training in
classical ballet, modern ballet, and Latin American dance forms.
“All my life, my sister and I have trained in classical forms of music and dance. So,
it was always clear to us that we wanted to pursue something within performing arts,”
shares the multi-hyphenate. “I remember wanting to become a singer, but I equally
enjoyed acting. Being a part of Student of the Year 2 (Sutaria’s debut film) taught me
how much I enjoyed the process of filming even though it’s so different from theatre.
Ever since, there has been no looking back.”
Since then, Sutaria has donned various roles on the silver screen—a mute music
teacher in Marjaavaan; the privileged daughter of a politician in Tadap; a self-made Our cover
millionaire in Heropanti 2; and most recently, a singer in Ek Villain 2. star always
wanted to pursue
But as is the case with every public personality, Sutaria has had her share of something within
hurdles along the way. Despite the unavoidable backlash, she charges on. Her trick? performing arts.
Growing and learning.
“It’s important to understand that any sort of negativity or criticism that comes ON HER: Outfit,
our way can be constructive. I’ve begun to understand that it’s a part and parcel of Sureena Chowdhri;
earrings and
not just our jobs as actors, but any job in general. It’s important to recognise where bangles, Shri
you make mistakes. Constructive criticism helps me understand what not to do going Paramani Jewels;
forward,” she explains, adding, “When someone says things that are harsh or possibly rings; Shri
Paramani Jewels,
untrue, I try not to think about it too much. It doesn’t make sense to dwell on things Silverstreak; all
that are beyond your control.” prices on request.
The actor is currently
planning a trip to Italy.
ON HER: Outfit, Sureena

Chowdhri; neck piece,
Kismet-è- Kheer;
rings, Apala by Sumit;
Abhilasha Pret Jewelry;
all prices on request.
Sutaria picked up cooking

as a hobby during the
lockdowns.
ON HER: Outfit, Arpita

Mehta; earrings,
Amrapali Jewels; rings,
Abhilasha Pret Jewelry,
Shri Paramani Jewels,
Silverstreak; all prices
on request.
Awed by this sense of maturity, I want to pick her brain film, the excited star reveals, “It’s a survival story of a young
on more pressing issues in the film industry. Often, this girl. I feel like women of all ages will resonate with parts of
feminist has been vocal regarding pay disparity, especially it.” The movie has wrapped shooting in Rajasthan.
in her line of work. Does she believe there’s been a positive I’m curious to know what her ideal vacation is like. She
change regarding this? says, “I feel the company that you keep is most important,
“I feel that there is a lot more respect and understanding irrespective of what corner of the world you travel to. So,
for female actors. But unfortunately, I feel unequal pay and travelling with the people I love—my family, sister, or close
disparities continue to exist within the industry. We, as an friends—is my idea of an ideal vacation, one where I get to
artistic community, need to initiate conversations regarding explore and find myself.” Among these vacations, her travels
this. At a time when we’re spearheading content and to the Maldives, London, and Japan have stood out. “I did a
changing the game, it’s very backward of us to accept these concert in Tokyo when I was 18 years old, so I have sweet
differences,” she asserts. memories from my time there,” she tells me adding that she
Her upcoming release also hints at empowering and is currently chalking out a trip to Italy—her bucket list travel
inspiring women. Talking about Apurva, her maiden solo destination—possibly to dive into a bowl of spaghetti.
TIn d ira &a Sov u the lAs i a + L e i s u r e
T R AV E L L E R S ’ TA L E S , F R O M N E A R A N D F A R
MINDFUL OASIS
Jodhpur may be best known for its history and heritage. On her journey through the Blue City,
SATARUPA PAUL comes across new initiatives by passionate individuals that showcase the
food of the region in the most conscious ways.
O U T
I N S I D E
I N DI A
T
HE DINNER SETUP looks straight
out of a southern Italian
countryside—in the middle
of an orchard, with strings of
fairy lights twinkling overhead
and lanterns hanging from
branches. Yet, it’s laid out with
a flourish as is expected of a fine dining
setting, with handpicked candlestands and
floral arrangements, customised placemats
and clipboard menus, and curated tableware.
Sitting here and savouring a seven-course,
farm-to-fork, plant-forward meal, it’s easy to
forget that I am, in fact, in India’s prime desert
country. More precisely, at the experiential
farm of Mharokhet (mharokhet.com), just
about an hour outside of Jodhpur in the
northwest frontier state of Rajasthan.
Think of Jodhpur, and the first image
that comes to mind is an old town painted
blue, in the middle of Thar Desert. Home
to the majestic Mehrangarh Fort and the
resplendent Umaid Bhawan Palace, the Blue Clockwise from left: Famed for its architecture and heritage,
City is primarily known for its architecture and Jodhpur now has many initiatives that are shining a spotlight
royal heritage. But apart from a few regional on its food culture; the private dining set up at Mharokhet;
Rajnush and Vedikam, founders of Mharokhet.
specialities, its food culture hasn’t been
exciting enough to write home about. Until
now. New initiatives are shining a spotlight on
the foods of the region, including native desert
produce, in unique and mindful ways that are
sure to appeal to the inspired traveller.
I arrive at Mharokhet with a few friends,
and we are ushered in with a tractor ride to
the reception, a mud house built with locally
available materials. A shy woman dressed in
a bright red traditional outfit, with the pallu
FROM LEF T: SHUT TERSTO CK ; COURTESY OF MHAROKHE T (2)
drawn low over her face as is the custom in

these parts, welcomes us with coconut water
infused with blue pea flower. I try to learn her
name, which she reveals after many giggles
is Shampoo. She’s one of a dozen or so local
women from the neighbouring Manai village
who are employed and trained by Mharokhet
in organic farming and hospitality, thus
upskilling them for alternate incomes.
Soon, we’re met by the young couple who
owns the farm—Rajnush is an entrepreneur and
Vedika previously worked in the development
sector. They take us on an immersive guided
O U T
I N S I D E
I N DI A
non-GMO produce is harvested fresh Later, we find ourselves in the

Clockwise from above: Mharokhet harvests
and delivers fresh produce across Jodhpur; and delivered the same day across guava orchard, by the dreamy dinner
Mharokhet’s Culinary Trail serves a pre-plated, Jodhpur. But making the desert bloom set-up for the night. Chiming anklets
plant-forward meal; the Marwar thali at Kaner is not all there is to Mharokhet, for the signal the arrival of Shampoo and her
Retreat is a celebration of native ingredients.
enterprising couple has also added entourage of women, who emerge
delightful experiential elements to the from the kitchen nearby bearing plates
tour of the 40-acre farm, while farm, including a guided tour and a of the amuse bouche—zucchini rosette
detailing the story of how it came to multi-course, plant-forward meal that on roasted pico de gallo. The next six
be. “The farm had been in my family is served al fresco. Strolling through courses of the World Cuisine menu
for over three decades, but it primarily the farm, the couple encourages us to that follow showcase the choicest
grew medicinal plants. It was only try some of the produce. We excitedly of fresh, seasonal produce from the
during the pandemic that we started pluck juicy guavas, scrunch our noses farm curated into a delectable meal by
experimenting with growing exotic at tart gooseberries, get our hands Sejal Jain, a former IHCL chef. There’s
vegetables, with the help of online dirty digging plump carrots, bite into a Regional Cuisine menu on offer as
courses,” Rajnush tells us. Today, sweet strawberries, challenge each well, which too takes a hyperlocal
Mharokhet has flourished into an other to spicy jalapenos, play a game approach with memorable numbers
organic farm growing over 100 varieties of guess what with various herbs, and such as matar kachori in creamy kadhi,
of vegetables, fruits and herbs—both go shutter-crazy amongst the edible gourd roulade and bati sans dal with
CLO C KW ISE FROM TOP LEF T: COURTESY OF MHAROKHE T (2); COURTESY OF K ANER RE TRE AT (2)
exotic and native. The chemical-free, flowers in the green house. smoked yogurt.
The Mharokhet experience leaves
us decidedly excited about Jodhpur’s
Kaner Retreat is a
red sandstone and emerging food scene, a feeling that
glass structure. gets cemented at Kaner Retreat
(kanerretreat.com). The place twinkles
under a star-spangled sky, with a red
sandstone and glass structure (the
restaurant) glowing softly in the pitch
darkness. Beyond it is a single row of
10 villas made conspicuous by a few
glowing lamps.
Dubbed as India’s first desert
botanical resort, Kaner Retreat is
remote, offbeat, and charmingly
unique. The villas here are inspired
by desert plants; mine is themed on
the kair flower that blossoms twice
a year and adds a burst of colour
to the barren landscape, while Kair
buds find their way into popular
GETTING THERE
Rajasthani dishes such as kair sangri. An ornate, native plants, before ending in a lunch.
IndiGo (goindigo.in)
locally carved wooden door opens into a We’re served a traditional Marwar thali
operates regular flights
verdant courtyard, and little touches add to the laden with a variety of regional dishes, from Delhi and Mumbai
theme—a marble bowl of dried kair flowers, kair accompanied by a tall glass of buttermilk. to Jodhpur. From
twigs woven into a wreath as wall art, a frame Each item on the plate makes our tastebuds there, Mharokhet is an
displaying information on the plant etc. sing—they are a celebration of native hour long-drive away,
while Kaner Retreat
Next morning, we set off for a tour with ingredients, either foraged from the oran or can be reached in
Sapna Bhatia, an ex-journalist and filmmaker sourced from Mharokhet. about two hours.
who returned home to Jodhpur and started Our tryst with Jodhpur’s conscious
Kaner inspired by her childhood spent on a farm. food scene concludes the next morning STAY
“We’ve deliberately kept much of the property at the 350-year-old haveli of a Blue City Kaner Retreat offers 10
in its natural state. We didn’t want Kaner to take native, while on a heritage walk through villas that are an ode
away from the great desert, but be one with it,” the old town. Unlike other tour companies, to desert architecture.
Doubles from `10,000;
Sapna says, before escorting us out of the main Bluecity Walks (bluecitywalks.com) begins kanerretreat.com
gate and across a narrow sandy road to what is its morning tours before sunrise at the Rao
perhaps the most interesting aspect of a stay Jodha Desert Rock Park. I meet the chief TOURS
here—a guided walk in the neighbouring oran, curator, Govind Singh Bhati during the wee The Mharokhet Flagship
or sacred grove, one of 25,000 orans across hours of dawn. He then takes us through Experience, which
Rajasthan where only foraging is allowed. offbeat rocky trails and canals around the combines their farm
During the hour-long walk, Sapna provides periphery of the Mehrangarh Fort. tour and multi-course
culinary trail, must be
an intimate and deeply insightful introduction After feasting our eyes on the sunrise, booked in advance.
to the native flora and layers the information we pass by two historic manmade lakes
The botanical walk
with heart-touching anecdotes of how the sparse inside the old city walls, and finally and Marwar thali lunch
desert vegetation has helped people and animals emerge in the narrow lanes bordered on at Kaner Retreat are
survive severe droughts and calamitous famines all sides by blue havelis. Many photo-ops offered complimentary
through the ages. “Take the bark of the khejri for later, we climb the winding staircases of to all guests. Other
culinary experiences
instance, which we call the ‘tree of life’. During one such haveli to the rooftop and catch a include a desert safari
famines, people would use the sun-dried bark gorgeous view of the fort and the Blue City and dinner on the
to make rotis. Or the black seeds of the broont while wolfing down hot stuffed parathas. dunes, an olive farm
plant that mothers would pound into flour to Over cups of chai, Govind tells us about tour, and lunch.
keep their babies alive,” Sapna narrates. We are his initiative of including the locals in The heritage walk by
standing in the shade of a kumtiya tree whose small ways and showcasing their culinary BlueCity Walks with
breakfast at the
COURTESY OF K ANER RE TRE AT (2)
beans are used in cooking. heritage. Seems like Jodhpur is poised 350-year-old haveli
Back at Kaner, the walk continues to the desert to make a mark with its conscious can be booked on
garden that showcases endangered and cultivated food scene. bluecitywalks.com
Kaner Retreat organises dinner on the sand dunes

as a part of its signature experiences. Below: The desert
vegetation of Jodhpur has helped people and animals
survive severe droughts.
SONG OF THE VALLEY
IN
Perched atop a mountain in the quiet town of Thekkady, Poetree Sarovar Portico
encourages you to unwind and rejuvenate. PAL L AV I P H U KA N checks in to discover
CHECK
the magic in and around the resort.
“D
ULQUER GREETED ME!” I wrote to my As we approached the hotel, the waft of
friend, after I noticed a life-size cutout of spices enveloped me. “Cardamom, ma’am”,
the actor, with a thumbs-up sign, smiling said the driver Shiva, pointing towards the
at me. After years of planning, cancelling, greenery outside the window. Surrounded
and planning again, I had finally made by the breathtaking beauty of Western
it to his home state! And my destination Ghats, Poetree Sarovar Portico is a luxurious
Poetree Sarovar was Thekkady, the spice capital of Kerala. resort, with spice plantations and the famous
Portico is surrounded It was midday when I reached Kumily, a town near Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary and Periyar Lake
by the lush Western Thekkady. After the three-hour flight from Delhi to located in its vicinity. I found myself looking
Ghats. Below: The
Prive Presidential Suite Kochi and a four-hour drive, I couldn’t wait to reach forward to a quiet stay amidst nature.
promises privacy. my home for the trip, Poetree Sarovar Portico. On reaching the hotel, I headed straight
to Kusini, the restaurant at Poetree. The
head chef, Aga Thammar had prepared
a vegetarian version of the famous meen
pollichathu, switching the signature fish
with cottage cheese. After a hearty lunch,
I retired to my suite. At Poetree Sarovar
Portico, guests can choose from five room
categories. While the Sahayadri mountain
COURTESY OF P OE T REE SAROVAR P ORT IC O
range can be enjoyed from the Club Room,

Reserva Suite, and Presidential Suite; the
Deluxe Cottages offer a spectacular view
of the plantations. Constructed using
eco-friendly materials, and equipped with
opulent amenities, each room harmoniously
blends modern and tribal architecture and
creates a unique aesthetic that complements
the surrounding environment.
Later that evening, I decided to forgo the city tour and was initially a calm excursion turned into an
Clockwise from here:
Kusini serves the enjoyed a Bharatnatyam performance, which the hotel exhilarating shopping spree.
best local recipes; organises every evening at their in-house amphitheatre. Thekkady has many spice farms and
Rooftop Deck As night fell, I settled on the balcony to stargaze. The bee farms that tourists can stop by. One
offers a 360° view
of the surroundings; sky was clear, and the constellations twinkled above me, can also buy spices and honey from
the Deluxe Cottage at while the lights from the town added to the charm. It these farms. I made calls to my Keralite
the property lies in was a perfect end to a beautiful day. friend for guidance and returned to the
the lap of the jungle. The next morning was misty. I set off on a drive hotel with a bag full of cardamom, clove,
towards Periyar Lake early in the morning; the lake nutmeg, cinnamon, pepper, and more.
is about 14 kilometres from the hotel. Accompanying My last two days in Thekkady were
me were the aromas of cardamom and coffee. Periyar reserved for a Jeep safari, and my driver
Lake is a protected area known for its plants, fish, Shiva took me to the famous spots amidst
and wild animals, some of which are rare, endemic, teak forests and spice gardens. While
and endangered. I spotted black-necked storks, a the Calvary Mount and Ayyapancovil
GETTING THERE
IndiGo (goindigo.in)
few Malabar grey hornbills, and boars; some very Hanging Bridge gave me enough pictures
operates regular fortunate people also spot tigers and elephants taking and videos for Instagram, it was the
flights from Mumbai leisurely breaks near the water’s edge, I am told. Ramakkalamedu viewpoint in Kuravan
and Delhi to Cochin A sense of peace enveloped me as I stood by the Kurathi hills that stole my heart.
International Airport
lake. The serene hour-and-a-half-long boat ride left me Ramakkalamedu which is at an
(140 kilometres
away) and Madurai in a trance; a fellow traveller nudged me back to reality elevation of 1,067 metres, lies on the
International Airport and later, into a spice store in the deck area. I am usually border of Tamil Nadu and Kerala. It was
(160 kilometres reluctant to shop in tourist areas, but the government- surreal to witness the panoramic views
away). run store turned out to be a revelation. From authentic of both the states below. Later, we drove
TARIFF
sandalwood powder to wild turmeric and natural honey down to Theni in Tamil Nadu. This region
Doubles from `7,500; collected by the locals from the jungle, all at reasonable of the state is famous for its vineyards.
poetreeresort.com prices, it was a treasure trove. And just like that, what On my last evening at Poetree
Sarovar Portico, I decided to head out
to Kumily for a cultural performance.
While Kathakali was an interactive session
between the audience and the performers,
the Kalaripayattu performance kept
everyone on the edge of their seats.
However, what surprised me the most
was that I found myself making a beeline
for the stores in the quaint town. It was
as though a shopping frenzy had taken
over me—I flitted from clothing stores to
coffee sellers, stocking spices, and other
mementoes to take back home. A part
of me, however, wanted to stay in this
obscure town forever.
CHEERS TO LIFE
G AST R O N O M Y
On her maiden visit to Champagne in France, A INDRIL A MI TRA

samples legacy labels, award-winning food, and the personalised
luxury of Relais & Chateaux’s Domaine Les Crayeres.
I
AM IN THE CHAMPAGNE region in France for seven hectares of landscaped garden, my
the first time, on an invite from the newly room is reminiscent of the ones in an
appointed president of Relais & Chateaux, aristocratic French chateau dating back to
Laurent Gardinier to visit his historic property 1904. The room features beautiful fabric and
of Domaine Les Crayeres situated in the heart antique furnishings but is equipped with all
of Reims. It’s a chilly morning when I reach the modern amenities a 21st-century traveller
the flagship of Relais & Chateuax hotels might need. Domaine Les Crayeres opened
after a 90-minute drive from Paris’ Charles de Gaulle to guests under the ownership of Gardinier
International Airport. The warmth is palpable when brothers in 1981. The French art de vivre,
I step into the castle and get welcomed with a glass of however, is still intact.
champagne and hors d’oeuvre. That’s typical Relais & For my maiden meal, I head to Le
Chateaux hospitality—wherever you are, there is always Jardin brasserie tucked away on one side
personal luxury. The next 48 hours are bound to be a of the grounds. Between its bucolic terrace
gastronomic feast, I think to myself. The two-Michelin and the loft-like building, the design is
star Le Parc restaurant is situated on the ground floor, contemporary with an open-style kitchen.
adjacent to the reception, and Le Jardin brasserie, the With a freewheeling menu based on fresh
Michelin ‘BIB Gourmand’, is literally a stone’s throw products, chef Philippe Mille leaves no
away from the palace grounds. stone unturned to make the dishes suitable
Located on Saint-Nicaise Hill, a UNESCO heritage site, for a top-tier bistronomy destination;
the castle boasts 20 rooms, each named after European there is a fixed three-course menu for both
empresses, queens, and princesses. Overlooking the lunch and dinner. Think precision cooking,
The Pommery
vintage comes from
seven village areas
in Champagne,
which are all graded
100 per cent.
fruit cups, and ‘buddy desserts’ by pastry chef Yoann Jeanne Alexandrine Pommery took over
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DOMAINE LES CRAYERES (2); COURTESY OF TAITTINGER CHAMPAGNE HOUSE. OPPOSITE PAGE: COURTEY OF MAISON POMMERY
From left: The

Prestige Room at
Normand, paired with the best selection of wines and the reins of the enterprise after the death
Domaine Les Crayeres; champagnes. When you’re at Les Crayeres, recipient of her husband. Not only did she succeed
Le Jardin serves a of the Best Wine List of the Year in the prestigious in conquering national and international
fixed three-course World of Fine Wines in 2022, you ought to find a spot markets, but as a trailblazer, also laid down
menu for lunch and
dinner with the best at La Rotonde, the 40-seating-only bar with its iconic the rules of luxury product promotions in
selection of wines mahogany and tartan decor–a healthy balance between terms of style, communication, and PR.
and champagnes. a gentleman’s club and a winter garden à la française. I meet Christine Prudhomme, the
Below: Taittinger
Champagne House Domaine Les Crayeres boasts three cellars and 63,000 guide for my Pommery cellar tour, at the
is one of the oldest bottles, and undoubtedly is one of the best in France. maison. “Last year was a good year [for
wine producers Head sommelier Martin Jean brings his fresh ideas to harvest]—the harvest of the century,” she
in the region. the table like adding 250 independent wine growers tells me. Pommery vintage comes from
to join the cellars along with the likes of Cote Rotie du seven village areas in Champagne, which
Domaine Jamet and Meursault Coche-Dury. are all graded 100 per cent. Le Grand
When in Champagne, it’s a given that you’re sitting Foudre, the Pommery blending barrel—one
in the hub of some of the best bubbly manufacturers in of the largest in the world—catches my
the world. And a trip to a cellar is inevitable. We choose attention. The barrel can accommodate
Maison Pommery (champagnepommery.com), once up to 1,00,000 bottles of champagne. And
led by an exceptional woman and one of the first in to celebrate the ties of friendship between
the world to introduce a champagne house to visitors. France and America, this giant barrel was
sent to be exhibited at the 1904 St. Louis
World’s Fair. It was made by Emille Galle,
a glass artist from that time. I walk down
116 steps to enter the salt caves, 30 metres
below ground surface, where the best of
champagne is stored. Madam Pommery
discovered 60 chalk pits, all connected
through 18 tunnels. It is a walk I will not
forget for a long time. The caves often host
exhibits curated by artists from the region,
and each one stays on for 12 months. I am
most impressed by the œnothèque (wine
shop) that showcases all the great vintages
of Maison Pommery since its creation,
G AST R O N O M Y
notably the famous 1874. It turns out to be an hour-long important to own the vineyards so you
The best champagne crash course on champagne; the lesson that I make a can control the quality of the champagne,
at Maison Pommery
is stored in salt caves, note of is that champagne must always be in contact and be careful with the environment,”
30 metres below with the cork. Unlike wine, it’s always ready to consume. she explains. “Each bottle has to go to the
the ground surface Before dinner, I catch up with Arnaud Valary, right place—it’s about human connection,”
Right: At the Taittinger
Champagne House, the maître de maison, at La Rotonde. While Valary Taittinger adds. When can we expect a
one can learn about the himself is from Versailles, he loves Champagne. Valary bottle of Taittinger Nocturne Rose in India,
site’s history and its explains that there are over 8,000 vineyards in the I wonder out loud. Gardinier sheds some
links to the Count of region—over 600 labels of champagne available at light, “[For us at Relais & Chateaux], quality
Champagne dynasty.
the property—and if he ever gets tired of the bubbly, is extremely important. Luxury means
then Suze is his next best option. I make a mental excellence and authenticity. Champagne
note to pick up one before leaving France. The dinner, is luxury. And there is a lack of supply of
GETTING THERE curated by none other than Philippe Mille, showcases [quality] champagne, as production was hit
Air India (airindia. his Discovery menu and is an artistic rendition with due to COVID-19.” That’s not all. The main
FROM LEF T: COURTE Y OF MA ISON P OMMERY; COURTESY OF TA I T T INGER CHAMPAGNE HOUSE

com) and Finnair the freshest local ingredients. The starter—reminiscent challenge in champagne production is
(finnair.com) of Notre Dame de Reims—with red scampi designed climate change. “We are working together
operate regular like stained glass, marinated with grape juice Coral to protect and research. Champagne is a
flights from New
Delhi and Mumbai to
waffles with Selection caviar gets me at go. The limited area, so we must review the model
Paris. Champagne courses that follow leave me in awe—whether it’s the of champagne and think about what
is a 90-minute roasted scallops with black truffle, the veal rack and makes sense when it comes to making
drive from Charles black truffle potato pickles and leeks, or the dessert champagne, and for me, it’s about the
de Gaulle Airport
spread laid out with Champagne’s leaf-to-leaf mousse excellence of the champagne,” Taittinger
in Paris.
and pears with Ratafia champagne. The three-hour- succinctly puts it.
STAY long French meal titillates the taste buds and is While I finish a beautiful meal at this
Domaine Les accompanied by the best of champagne and wine. chateau overlooking a vineyard, I realise we
Crayeres has 20 The next morning, I am all set to discover the probably have to wait a while to uncork a
rooms and suites. Taittinger Champagne House (taittinger.com), one of Comtes de Champagne Blanc back home.
The property is a
the oldest wine producers in the region. The Comtes But I decide to bask in the joy of this flute
few minutes’ walk
from the cellars de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2012 welcomes us now; it is incomparable especially since you
and vineryards here. Over a lunch with the president of the house, are at the destination of its making. Relais
of the Pommery Vitalie Taittinger, and Laurent Gardinier, I am told that & Chateaux has 800 restaurants of which
and Vueve Cliquot 2012 is considered the best year for vintage champagne 350 are Michelin starred, and offers one of
Champagne
houses. Doubles
by the veterans of the region. Taittinger explains the largest gastronomic experiences in the
from `40,000; why her great-grand uncle who made the pillars of world. But there is a certain je ne sais quoi
lescrayeres.com the house decided to have their own vineyards. “It’s when experiencing them like a local.
F E S T I VA L
The 36th edition of Salón
Gourmets took place in
Madrid in April this year.
SAVOURING ESPAÑA of Spain’s culinary offerings, and in the

process, educate ourselves.
The 36th Salón Gourmets, one of the most prestigious food and beverage A celebration of fine foods and
fairs in Europe, took place in Madrid earlier this year. SIMRRAN GILL beverages, Salón Gourmets celebrated its
walks the halls to experience the best of the world’s culinary offerings. 36th edition in April this year with a larger-
than-ever-before affair. There were over
2,000 exhibitors showcasing more than
I
LOVE QUIZZES. The anticipation of a question and the 55,000 products and more than 1,00,000
adrenaline rush to solve it in seconds draw me to the process visitors participating in over 1,200
time and again. But the quiz that I am presented with now is activities at an exhibition spread over an
unlike any other I have taken before. There are no questions area equivalent to 10 soccer fields.
COURTESY OF TURESPAÑA
and no rush to answer, and definitely, no scorecard. Yet, I am My day began long before my mini
fully invested in sniffing the many bottles of olive oil to adventure at the olive oil stall, with an
identify the various notes. Apart from the two citrusy ones, I assortment of muffins and coffee. While
get everything right. I’m at the 36th edition of Salón Gourmets in my curious friends opted for a South
Madrid, along with journalists from Sao Paolo, Finland, Colombia, Indian roast, I chose the classic Colombian
Germany, and Oslo. We have come together to celebrate the diversity coffee. As time went on, there were finer
F E S T I VA L
I realised as I made my way through the

tunnel. It turned out to be one of the
most enlightening walks of my life, where
I learned how milk affects the texture of
cheese, how even the slightest change
in temperature immensely affects the
flavour, how aromas indicate the intensity
of cheese, and what wine pairing works
best with different kinds of cheese.
The next leg of the exhibition was
something that my fellow journalists
thoroughly enjoyed—a selection of fish,
sushi, cold cuts, and a variety of meats.
Discussions about processes, flavours,
softness, and freshness followed. And in
no time, we headed for lunch in the press
room. While my friends dived into more
meaty offerings, I picked the avocado
topped with kiko (fried corn with spices),
fruits, and microgreens, with a base of
gazpacho. “Gazpacho is a commonly
indulgences awaiting us, for instance, wines with cherished cold soup in summer. It is made
The cheese tunnel
varying levels of acidity and flavour profiles. The at the fair had soft with tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers,”
sommeliers showcased their best collections; got and gooey and hard Alba Ballester, my guide from Tourism
candid about the magical journey of their wines, from and chewy cheese Spain, told me. Next up was pisto—made
grape to the golden liquid in the bottle; and most variants. Below: Artists
perform at Corral de
importantly, demonstrated the accurate way to fully la Morería, the world’s
enjoy the wine. only flamenco tablao
After a quick sip and taste test, we set off to with a Michelin-starred GETTING THERE
gourmet restaurant.
the highlight for the day—the cheese tunnel. The Lufthansa (lufthansa.com) and
tunnel, filled with everything from soft and gooey Qatar Airways (qatarairways.
to hard and chewy cheese, was nothing but sinful com) operate various
connecting flights from New
indulgence. The process of making cheese is an art,
Delhi and Mumbai to Adolfo
Suárez Madrid–Barajas Airport.
STAY
Hotel Fénix Gran Meliá is one
of Madrid’s most iconic hotels
and offers Spanish luxury at its
finest. One can choose from a
variety of luxurious rooms and
suites available here. Doubles
from `24,537; melia.com
WHERE TO EAT
Corral de la Morería is the
world’s only flamenco tablao
with a Michelin-starred
FROM TO P : TURESPAÑA ; MADRID DEST INO
gourmet restaurant. Dinner/

tapas with flamenco show from
`5,000; corraldelamoreria.com
Desde 1911 is inspired by the

Nordic regions in terms of its
décor. The menu here changes
every day, depending on the
catch of the day. A three-
course meal for one starts
from `14,000; desde1911.es
Clockwise from here: Tapas from Spain’s different
regions made their way to Salón Gourmets; the menu
at Desde 1911 changes every day depending on the
catch of the day; an appetiser with a flaky crust and
CLO CKW ISE FROM TOP LEF T: COURTESY OF GRUP O GOURME TS ; COURTESY OF DESDE 191 1; COURTESY OF GRUP O GOURME TS
tomato filling at the festival.
with fried veggies, tomatoes, onions, and baby corn in a

flavourful sauce—that was served with bread. It brought
back memories of home with its flavours and colour.
Post lunch, we decided to walk through the rest
of the fair solo for a more personalised experience.
And that is when I came across Sandro Desii. For
someone who doesn’t have a sweet tooth, I surprised
myself by wolfing down six spoonfuls of ice cream
in about three minutes, thoroughly enjoying each
one of them. In my defense, these weren’t regular
flavours. While piquillo pepper tingled my tongue, couple of hours was indeed a full day involving a lot of
the roasted onion came with a sweet aftertaste; rocket walking, discussions about food and its origins, hidden
leaves and ripe vine tomatoes were uncanny, and gems in Madrid, and much more.
almond and bergamot became a personal favourite. Before calling it a day, we head to Desde 1911 for
These ice creams had been exclusively crafted using dinner. Although we spent the entire day decoding (and
early harvest extra virgin olive oil by Sandro Desii devouring) Spanish food, dinner-time conversations are
(sandrodesii.com) in Barcelona. all about food too. I notice a particular interest among
The walkthrough further led me to discover my counterparts in Indian spices, methods of cooking,
what an authentic aioli is supposed to taste like. An and the country’s myriad vegetarian offerings. While I
emulsion of garlic and olive oil, aioli is a cold sauce try, to the best of my ability, to explain how the cuisine
that is abundantly used in meal spreads in coastal changes every few kilometres, there is a collective
Spain, I was told. Next, I discovered artisanal Italian interest to experience this mélange of flavours first
wines from family-owned chateaus, Italian gelatos, hand. And we part ways with a promise to meet again
and some drool-worthy desserts with flaky crusts and for more food, conversations, and laughter.
chocolate-coated exteriors. What seemed like only a
Tsinandali Estate is where Georgian wine was first bottled in 1814.
Below: Vazisubani Estate specialises in kvevri wines and you can
sample a wide selection in the refurbished cellar (left); churchkhela
(a sweet made from nuts dipped in grape juice roux) and
tklapi (fruit leather) are often paired with artisanal cheese to
accompany wine tastings (right).
ACT
NE XT
CLO CKW ISE FROM TO P : COURTESY OF TSINANDAL I ESTATE; SANDEEP KUMAR; COURTESY OF VA Z I SUBANI ESTATE
VINEYARD OF DREAMS What explains this recent
transformation of the Georgian wine
Georgian wine has captured the world’s attention with its explosive industry? Before the Russian Revolution
growth in recent years. RANJAN PAL travels to the Kakheti wine region of 1917, Georgia had over 500 grape
to understand what makes the country’s reds and whites stand out. varietals and hundreds of small family-
run vineyards. But the Soviets who prized
quantity over quality crushed this wine
T
HE SMALL COUNTRY OF GEORGIA, which shares the culture by uprooting indigenous grape
Caucasus region with Azerbaijan and Armenia, varietals and forced Georgian producers
proudly lays claim to being the cradle of wine. Indeed, to focus almost entirely on the high-
archaeologists have found traces of winemaking on yielding red Saperavi and white Rkatsiteli
shards of earthen amphora dating back to eight grapes for the Russian market. Viniculture
thousand years! Today, it is only a minnow among was industrialised and Georgia became
global wine producers with 180 million litres coming solely a mass producer of cheap, poor-
from 55,000 hectares of vineland in 2021, but wine culture is quality plonk for Russian consumers.
taking hold as Georgians are training as professional sommeliers, This continued even after the break-up
winemakers, and winery tour guides, and there are increasing of the Soviet Union in 1991 but then came
numbers of wine education classes for consumers. the short-lived war between Russia and
Georgia over South Ossetia in August 2008. Two years prior
to this Putin had punished Georgia with a blanket ban on
exports of wine which meant an immediate loss of 95 per
cent of their export market. This staggering loss sent the
wine industry reeling, but in adversity, there can also be
opportunity, and the Georgians realised it. The government
removed restrictions on varietals, tightened up on quality
controls, spearheaded technological upgradation, and
explored new markets in the former Soviet Union, Eastern
Europe, and China. Small family winemakers jumped back
into the fray and began making and bottling wine for sale.
Spread over five juice, along with the pomace of grape
WHAT IS KVEVRI WINE? hectares, the winery skins, stems, and pips (otherwise
The thing that makes wine in Georgia stand out among the at Lopota Resort known as chacha), is poured into
FROM TO P : SANDEEP KUMAR; COURTESY OF TSINANDAL I ESTATE
was created in 2018

hordes of new wine producers around the world is their by Goga Maisuradze. clean kvevris lined with beeswax for
classical way of making wine in kvevris. While the reality is that Below: The mansion fermentation; alcoholic and malolactic
currently only a small fraction of Georgian wine is made this at Tsinandali Estate fermentation, where after the initial
way (about 10 per cent), it has captured the world’s attention. has been converted maceration period, the mixture
into a museum with
Kvevris are egg-shaped clay vessels designed to store wine books, lithographs, undergoes both alcoholic fermentation
and look a lot like Greek amphoras, but they are used during and period furniture. (starch is converted to alcohol) and
the process of fermentation and not for storing the finished malolactic fermentation (malic acid is
product. Today, kvevris are crafted in less than 10 villages in all converted into lactic acid and carbon
of Georgia and can range from a tiny two to three litres in size dioxide); and ageing and decanting
to a staggering 6,000-8,000 litres. The vast majority have been where the kvevris are covered with
handed down from generation to generation as each family lids and sealed with clay or beeswax
makes its own wine in its own backyard. and buried underground. After about
The art of kvevri winemaking consists of three stages: six months, the wine is ready and is
Maceration, where the grapes are crushed and the grape decanted for bottling.
The Vazisubani Estate is the former home
of Sulkhan Chavchavadze, a pioneer in
wine cultivation. Below: The estate is in a
rich parkland with flourishing acacia,
oak, and ash trees.
ACT
NE XT
GETTING THERE create one of the few
CLO CKW ISE FROM LEF T: COURTESY OF VA Z ISUBANI ESTATE (2); SANDEEP KUMAR
Emirates (emirates. four-star hotels in
com) and Qatar Kakheti. Guests can
Airways (qatarairways. do a tasting in the
com) operate regular winery, stroll through
connecting flights the decorative parkland
from Delhi and and visit the house
Mumbai to Tbilisi. museum of the founder.
Doubles from `17,000;
STAY tsinandaliestate.ge
Vazisubani Estate is a
delightful boutique wine The Lopota Lake
hotel in a beautiful leafy Resort and Spa caters
setting with 19 rooms to a wide range of
and a kvevri wine cellar travellers. For wine
and gourmet restaurant lovers, the USP is
on the premises. the elegant Chateau
Doubles from `10,000; Beura where you
vazisubaniestate.ge can experience wine
tasting and visit
Tsinandali Estate the modern cellars.
has tied up with the Doubles from `14,000;
Radisson Group to lopotaresort.com
Georgian wines come in a bewildering profusion of The grand old mansion in Vazisubani Estate
varieties with hard-to-pronounce names. The dominant has been remade into a charming boutique
white varietal is Rkatsiteli while Saperavi is the major red. hotel with Victorian-era furniture.
Saperavi (which translates in English as dye) is the backbone
of the dry Georgian reds and is sometimes referred to as
“black wine” because of its red pulp and dark skin which
give it a wonderful deep purple colour and an intense
flavour. Its high alcohol levels make it amenable for mixing
with other lesser types like Usakhelauri and Khvanchkara to
produce sweet and semi-sweet red wines, very popular in
the dominant Slavic market.
KAKHETI, THE HEARTLAND OF GEORGIAN WINE

We were invited to spend a weekend in the heartland
of Georgian wine–this is Kakheti, its easternmost region
with 41,500 hectares which account for about 70 per cent
of vineyard land and over 90 per cent of all production.
Protected by the high Caucasus mountains to the north,
Kakheti enjoys a continental climate with warm summers and
ice-free winters conducive to wine cultivation. We started at
the Vazisubani Estate, which used to be the home of Sulkhan
Chavchavadze, a Georgian nobleman and pioneer in wine
cultivation. The grand old mansion has been remade into
The restaurant
in Vazisubani
Estate specialises
in regional
Kakhetian cuisine
and boasts views
of the Caucasian
mountains. Below:
The active winery
at Tsinandali Estate
produces a wide
range of white,
amber, and red
Georgian wines and
houses the prince’s
personal collection
of vintage wines.
a charming boutique hotel with 19 rooms and suites, each of

which has its unique character and design, and is adorned with
Victorian-era furniture bought on auction in the UK. The mansion
is surrounded by a rich parkland comprising flourishing acacia,
oak, and ash trees, and many more exotic species, some older
than 100 years. The estate specialises in kvevri wines and you
can sample a wide selection in the refurbished cellar accessed
through a stylish brick entrance on the grounds. There is a
restaurant that specialises in regional Kakhetian cuisine, with
floor-to-ceiling glass walls that afford spectacular views of the
Caucasian mountains. My abiding memory of the estate will be
the afternoon I spent lounging in the infinity pool gazing at these
magnificent mountains that ran right across the horizon in an
unbroken line, topped off with clouds that seemed to emerge as
puffs of smoke from a distant steam engine.
A visit to Kakheti would be incomplete without a visit to
Tsinandali Estate, a storied name in Georgian wine production
and where Georgian wine was first bottled in 1814. The estate
used to be the home of prince Alexander Chavchavadze,
a famous Georgian romantic poet who turned Tsinandali competent and knowledgeable sommelier Gabrieli
into a leading cultural and intellectual hub of its time. You Menabde and then get a chance to examine the new
can walk through the stately home, which has been turned brick cellar with its evenly spaced circular holes
into a museum with books, lithographs, paintings, musical through which the necks of the kvevri fit and into
instruments, and period furniture. The mansion is set in a which a man must climb to clean them out!
decorative park that covers 18 hectares; it is the first European- By the end of the trail, I realise why the names
FROM TOP : SANDEEP KUMAR; COURTESY OF TSINANDAL I ESTATE
style landscape garden of its kind in Georgia with many exotic of Georgian wines roll off the lips of wine lovers
species of plants and trees. The active winery produces a wide worldwide. It is not because of the superior quality
range of white, amber, and red Georgian wines available for of the wine or some incredible value-for-money
tasting and houses the prince’s personal collection of vintage proposition. It is the story behind the wine, the long
wines consisting of over 15,000 bottles. history of Georgian wine deeply intertwined with
We end our visit to Kakheti with a dinner visit to Chateau the country’s culture and history, and the struggle in
Beura, a relatively new boutique winery that is part of the Lopota the face of Russian-created adversity that is driving
Lake Resort and Spa. Spread over five hectares of vineyard, this consumers. Secondly, the environmentally friendly
winery was created in 2018 by Goga Maisuradze, the founder of back-to-nature aspect of kvevri production, with
Lopota and a dedicated wine entrepreneur. The winery itself is no chemical additives or extra technology, appeals
housed in a small but impressive Renaissance-style palace and strongly to the conscious consumer who wants to
produces wine in both the kvevri and the classical European make a statement about the wine that they drink.
style with stainless steel tanks. We attend the tasting of a flight Both are compelling reasons for the continued
of Chateau Beura premium wine conducted by the extremely resurgence of Georgia as a wine producer.
L IF E
FA RM
Middle Covered Bridge,

in Woodstock, Vermont.
Left: Residents of Fat Sheep
Farm & Cabins, in Hartland.
HOME GROWN fed spent grain from River Roost.) March in Vermont is also
mud season, when the thaw begins to trickle onto dirt roads,
In Vermont’s Upper Valley, new farm stays, challenging even the most stalwart Subaru.
general stores, and restaurants are putting a fresh A former lawyer, Heyman worked on various farms before
spin on small-town life. BY TOM VANDERBILT buying the property that would become Fat Sheep. I found the
place accidentally. Its five fully equipped private cabins, with
their Scandinavia-meets-Vermont décor, felt like the perfect
I
T WAS A FRIDAY night in Hartland, blend of hotel and house rental. There are fresh eggs and scones
Vermont, and I was out behind the barn to greet you on your first morning, hiking trails on the grounds,
at Fat Sheep Farm & Cabins (cabins from and workshops on sourdough baking and cheese making.
`16,121; fatsheepfarmvermont.com), For a state rich in sheep, the farm is one of the few producers
sitting by a blazing firepit carved out of sheep-milk cheese, and Kaplan proudly showed me the
of drifts of snow. A biting March wind humidity- and temperature-controlled cave where chalky
whipped down the mountain while a tapestry of rounds of aging Manchego were arranged on wooden shelves.
stars glittered overhead. I was drinking an IPA I’ve been going to Vermont’s Upper Valley, a varyingly
from River Roost Brewery and talking to Todd defined area roughly bordered by Norwich to the north and
Heyman, who, together with his wife, Suzy Kaplan, greater Woodstock to the south, for several decades. The
runs what has become one of the state’s most achingly quintessential town of Woodstock was my gateway
popular farm stays. drug, as it is for many people. I would inevitably visit the
Hosting guests is challenging enough, but try Yankee Bookshop (yankeebookshop.com), or get a chocolate
adding livestock to the mix. “We basically haven’t frappé at the White Cottage (whitecottagesnackbar.com), or stroll
slept for the last two weeks,” Heyman told me. from the living-history Billings Farm & Museum (billingsfarm.org)
March is lambing season, and Fat Sheep had had a through town for a drink at the Woodstock Inn & Resort (doubles
bumper crop. “We would come out every three or from `20,835; woodstockinn.com). But in the past few years,
DANIEL SCHECHNER
four hours during the night,” Heyman said; often I’ve looked beyond the established favourites and discovered a
he and Kaplan would hand-feed the animals if they new group of entrepreneurs with a strong localist bent.
didn’t seem strong enough. (The ewes, in keeping A short drive from Fat Sheep, Brownsville Butcher & Pantry
with the farm’s mission to keep things local, are (butcherandpantry.com) hosts an occasional “supper club”
GETTING THERE
SWISS (swiss.com)
and American Airlines
(aa.com) operate
regular connecting
flights from New Delhi
and Mumsbai to
Burlington International
Airport in Vermont, from
where Fat Sheep Farm &
Cabins is a two-hour
drive approximately.
night that has become a local institution. One morning, I dropped in

on owners Peter Varkonyi and Lauren Stevens. Varkonyi, who had
arrived at 5 am to start baking pastries, suggested I grab a maple-
glazed cruller, as they usually sell out by mid-morning, and a chair.
Before they opened the shop, Varkonyi told me, the space held a
series of more typical convenience stores; when the last one closed
down, the town felt the loss of both supplies and a gathering spot.
A group of locals got together and raised funds to buy the building
and establish a new business headed by people who would appreciate
their community-building ideals. Those people were Varkonyi, who
was a chef, and Stevens, who had been working in agriculture. “Our
vision was of rural living with modern-day convenience, quality-
mindedness, and the place, all merged into one,” Varkonyi said.
It seems to be working. The place struck me as the platonic
ideal of a small-town store, where customers kibbitz over coffee
and newspapers, or buy locally raised meat and vegetables and
provisions from small-batch producers.
I sensed a similar enthusiasm in Woodstock, where Matt Lombard,
who once worked at the nearby Relais & Châteaux property Clcokwise from top left: Todd Heyman, Suzy Kaplan,
and their kids at Fat Sheep Farm; Gouda and Tomme
Twin Farms (doubles from `2,14,969, all-inclusive; twinfarms.com), cheeses aging on wooden racks at the farm; a savoury
runs Santé (entrées `2,315–`2,976; santewoodstock.com). The pie with peas and parsnip-and-potato mash from
restaurant, like Lombard’s other projects, is centred around locally Piecemeal Pies, in White River Junction.
sourced ingredients. (On previous trips, I had eaten at Lombard’s
first Woodstock restaurant, Mangalitsa, named for the famous undergraduates” from across the river “wearing
breed of pig. It’s currently closed for renovations.) casually their tailored sports clothes.” The fashions
may have changed, but the undergrads are still visible.
THE NEXT DAY, we loaded up on speciality flours and sampled the “In Vermont,” Varkonyi had told me, “you drive for
superb scones and focaccia on offer at the sprawling brick-and- quality.” So we did, crisscrossing the Upper Valley—
mortar home of the legendary, worker-owned King Arthur Baking hushed and still in winter, verdant and buzzing in
(kingarthurbaking.com), in Norwich. Then we stopped for lunch in summer, and drop-dead gorgeous in fall. There was
White River Junction at Piecemeal Pies (pies `992–`1,240; piecemeal always some other cherished food item to stop for:
pies.com), where Justin Barrett, a former architecture student and the stunning ice cream in the honor-system store at
alum of the Fat Radish, in New York City, serves British-inflected Kiss the Cow Farm (kissthecowfarm.com), the hearty
savoury pies like pork with parsnip and rabbit with bacon. White breakfast sandwich at the South Woodstock Country
River Junction, a longtime train hub, spent much of the 20th century Store (southwoodstockcountrystore.com). To burn
in slow decline, but has lately been rebounding, with good food off some of the bounty, we spent our last afternoon
options like Trail Break Taps & Tacos (entrées `909–`1,405; trailbreak enjoying the remaining gifts of winter, traversing the
wrj.com) and small shops like Gear Again (vtgearagain.com), a very trails on cross-country skis at the Nordic Center of
Vermont consignment store selling outdoor clothing and equipment. the Woodstock Inn. The snow was starting to squall
Back in 1937, the WPA guide to Vermont noted that the town’s but, knowing that the inn’s enveloping hygge and
hotel and restaurants were “frequently thronged with Dartmouth warm fire weren’t far away, we pressed on.
WE L L NE S S
A bird’s-eye view
of the pool at
Lanserhof Sylt,
a new spa off the
coast of Germany.
TOTAL IMMERSION This repetitive process is part of what’s

A tiny island in Germany is home to one of the most advanced wellness known as the Lanserhof Cure. It’s based on
ALE XANDER HA IDEN/COURTESY OF L ANSERHOF SYLT
resorts in the world. MARI A SHOLLENBARGER checks in to discover the theories of the turn-of-the-last-century
its surprisingly simple secrets. Austrian holistic physician Franz Xaver
Mayr, who specialised in gastrointestinal
I
T WAS EARLY MORNING on a crystal-clear health, and who started clinics throughout
autumn day on the tiny German island of Sylt, Austria that are still in operation today.
and I was chewing toast. And chewing, and Mayr’s methods are the bedrock of
chewing. When I finally reached a count of Lanserhof Resorts, a group of state-of-the-
40, I swallowed. Outside the floor-to-ceiling art medical wellness retreats with locations
window of the dining room, long strands of in Lans, Austria; Tegernsee, Germany
dune grass rippled in a brisk offshore breeze. (about 45 minutes south of Munich in the
I took another small bite, sipped some almond milk from Bavarian Alps), and now Sylt, which can be
a white porcelain cup, and began the count again. accessed by ferry, plane, or train.
the design is spare, the atmosphere is
inviting: sofas and deep, cosy chairs in the
lounges are contemporary but comfortable.
Beautiful handmade chessboards grace
tables, and the impressive library stocks
titles by Colson Whitehead and Emily St.
John Mandel. I spent a lot of time in the
slick sauna and steam rooms, and there’s
also a large indoor-outdoor saltwater pool.
My room—a bi-level loft—was swathed
in calming shades of slate, with a
birch-clad ceiling.
I got to know that space well over
the first two days of my programme, an
Each of the Lanserhof properties offers guidance eight-day regimen called the Cure Classic
From left: The resort,
designed by German
and implementation in topics like orthomolecular Plus. I arrived exhausted after a hectic few
architect Christoph medicine (i.e., nutritional supplementation), advanced weeks during which I had overindulged
Ingenhoven, has a hormonal diagnostics, light therapies, and intravenous in prodigious amounts of carbs and sugar.
staircase that spans infusions. But in the Lanserhof universe, health and The abrupt switch to 500 calories a day
five floors; there are
five lighthouses on longevity begin and end with—or rather, in—the gut. and no caffeine initially left me feeling
Sylt—this one is in the My gut and I arrived at Sylt after years of hearing lethargic and headachey, so I didn’t leave
village of List. acquaintances rhapsodise about the clinics in Lans and my room much in the first 48 hours.
Tegernsee, and the salutary effects of all that Alpine air Nutrition plans at Lanserhof range
and scenery. But this island retreat was different: there from Zero (less than 100 calories a day;
were wide North Sea vistas, sandy beaches backed broth and tea only) to Three, which allows
by low dunes, and the occasional marshland dotted for some fruit and entrées like spelt-
with fluffy sheep. During my stay, I learned about the and-zucchini pasta with tofu ‘bolognese’.
negatively charged ions that radiate off this spit of land Together with Thomas Hübner, one of
(which is less than half the size of Nantucket) as well the clinic’s consulting physicians, I’d
FROM LEF T: K A SPER PAL SNOV; SHUT TERSTO CK
as anti-inflammatory ‘aerosols,’ the micro-drops of elected to start at One: toast and almond
seawater inhaled on bike rides and beach walks. milk at breakfast, toast and full-fat yogurt
The architectural vernacular on Sylt is Frisian— for lunch, and a vegan broth for dinner.
Friesland being a cultural region encompassing parts of A shot of bitter herbs (a digestive aid)
the coastal Netherlands and northern Germany—with was proffered before each meal, and a
houses that have steeply pitched thatched roofs and wheatgrass-cucumber juice with vegan
rosy brick façades. Lanserhof, which sits at the edge omega-3 oil was served alongside it. On
of a village called List, hews to this local style: the 55 waking up each morning, I drank a glass of
guest suites occupy a thatch-topped structure shaped Epsom salts dissolved in water—a natural,
like a W with glass walls that overlook the sea. While and very potent, purgative.
DENMARK
Sylt
NORTH SEA
WE L L NE S S
Hamburg
Berlin
G E R MA NY
included body mass, water weight, and

metabolic measurements), listened to
my lungs, and examined my tongue
and joints—all while firing a barrage of
questions about my health and habits.
Also available are sonography, 3-D dermal
scanning, stress-hormone testing,
micronutrient analysis, a post-COVID
And then there was the chewing. Much is made rehabilitation program, and a host of other
The main building at
CLO C KW ISE FROM TOP LEF T: ALE XANDER HA IDEN/COURTESY OF L ANSERHOF SYLT.; K A SPER PAL SNOV (2). ILLUSTRAT ION BY D ONOUGH O’ MALLE Y
Lanserhof Sylt has at Lanserhof of the importance of proper chewing body, mind, and aesthetic treatments.
the largest thatched for healthy digestion, which made the dining room a Alongside detox and abdominal-
roof in Europe. noticeably quiet place as everyone focused on mindful stimulation massages, Hübner prescribed a
mastication. As mundane as the food might sound, course of simulated altitude therapy called
executive chef Dietmar Priewe worked magic within CellGym. This consisted of 45 minutes
the parameters, and even after I switched to diet plan spent in a reclining chair wearing a
Three—which introduced broccoli, potatoes, and mask through which alternating hypoxic
blueberries—five days after I arrived, his vegetable (oxygen-poor) and hyperoxic (oxygen-rich)
broth was the thing I most looked forward to every day. air flows. The practice, Hübner explained,
From left: Mattresses
can be set to a specific (Juniper berries are his secret ingredient, apparently.) was meant to benefit cellular health at a
temperature via remote My consultations with the extremely amiable mitochondrial level. I did four sessions,
control; activities Hübner took place in a suite of treatment and accompanied by a multivitamin infusion;
include morning yoga
by the pool. examination rooms, where he checked my heart on my last day, the nurse praised my steady
rate and pulse, did a bio-impedance analysis (which pulse under the strain of oxygen depletion.
Fitness and nutrition lectures and cooking replenishing serums were blasted into
Friesian sheep
grazing on Sylt’s
demonstrations were scheduled throughout the my skin via a handheld wand. At just over
grassy dunes week, as were aqua-fitness classes and yoga. But Sylt `49,171, it wasn’t cheap (cosmetic treatments
at sunrise. itself was one of Lanserhof’s selling points, and some are not included in Lanserhof programmes),
of my favourite mornings were spent exploring the but the results were superb. For three days
surroundings on one of the property’s e-bikes. afterward, my jawline looked as if it had been
One day I cycled a few miles to the Westrand, a surgically contoured, and a week later I still
wild, windswept beach where I sifted through drifts of had remarkably even skin tone.
seashells, waded into the North Sea, and inhaled those On checkout day, I learned that I had lost
salt-tinged aerosols I had been told about. Another a little more than five pounds and an inch
day, I visited the village of Keitum, where 250-year-old off my waist. More importantly, I had shed
sea captains’ houses sit alongside elegant boutiques the fuzzy, cotton-stuffed brain fog I’d arrived
selling Loro Piana scarves and Ralph Lauren sweaters. with. But best of all, the Lanserhof Cure
(For years, the island has been home to some of the was like a cheat sheet I could take home
most expensive real estate in the country, earning it the with me, one that I continue to use all these
nickname ‘the Hamptons of Germany’.) months later. Who knew that feeling like a
Back at the resort, I sampled an offering from new person involved elements as simple as
the clinic’s aesthetics menu: the 90-minute JetPeel bread, broth, time in nature—and perfecting
facial, during which various brightening, firming, and the art of chewing?
GETTING THERE
Lufthansa
(lufthansa.com)
operates various
CLO CKW ISE FROM TOP : SHUT TERSTO CK ; K A SPER PAL SNOV (2)
connecting flights
from New Delhi and
Mumbai to Sylt.
STAY
Lanserhof Sylt has
55 guest room and
suites and offers
panoramic views of
the Lister harbour
as well as the
adjacent protected
landscape. The
Cure Classic Plus
programme begins From left: A guest soaks in the saltwater swimming
from `6,59,364; pool, which was built into the dunes; fruit-laden
lanserhof.com porridge and green tea for breakfast.
A red-billed oxpecker
perches on the neck of a
giraffe in the Okavango
Delta, in Botswana.
Opposite: Morning mist
over the Okavango.
All
Creatures
Great
and
Small
A typical safari might give the Big Five top billing, but on a bird-watching
tour of Botswana, Jeffrey Gettleman discovers that the country’s winged
species offer a unique—and thrilling—way of seeing the African wilderness.
Photographs by Crookes & Jackson

Tracker Kgomotso Batani from
andBeyond Xaranna Okavango
Delta Camp sits in the raised
‘spotter’ seat of a safari vehicle.
Halfway birding safari in Botswana, As we rolled along, I was overcome by the sense of space—miles
through my wife, our two sons, and I and miles of waist-high grass stretching in every direction, the
had somehow identified more woody smell of bush sage filling my lungs. There wasn’t another
our than 150 winged species—no truck in sight, or house on the horizon. Though bigger than
small feat for a family that France, Botswana has only 2.5 million inhabitants. It’s vast, empty,
had only recently taken up bird-watching as a hobby. and gorgeous.
We’d spotted giant kingfishers, pied kingfishers, and When we arrived at the deserted airstrip, Diphonso Ditshupelo,
woodland kingfishers (the boys are big on kingfishers). one of our guides, cut the engine. He and Ian Lombard, a bird
We’d seen spindly saddle-billed storks and graceful specialist who was travelling with our family, raised their
herons, bee-eaters, sunbirds, and a difficult-to-find binoculars and scanned the thornbushes—a favourite habitat of the
Pel’s fishing owl, with its orange feathers and black, violet-eared waxbill.
marble-like eyes. But one little sucker remained Ditshupelo, who goes by Dips, sat at the wheel for a quiet
elusive: the violet-eared waxbill. moment. He cocked his head, then motioned for us to get out
This diminutive creature sports an amazing of the truck. As we climbed down, he put a finger to his lips and
paint job, with red eyes, a pink beak, violet cheeks, turned to us with a glint of mischief in his eyes. “I think I hear
an orange body, and a striking indigo tail. In the something,” he whispered.
pictures I saw, the bird looked like a figment of the
imagination. But it is also really hard to spot. “Private,” HERE’S THE THING about bird-watching. It’s one of those activities
even “secretive,” is what the guidebooks say. So one that seems niche, even boring—until you try it. Then you realise
afternoon we made that our mission: violet-eared that it opens up a whole other way of interacting with nature. Bird-
waxbill or bust. We loaded into our open-sided safari watching requires you to slow down, clear your mind, and really
truck, cruised out of our camp in the Okavango Delta, focus. It’s like the Zen meditation of wildlife tourism. But trying to
passing herds of red lechwe and kudu nibbling on the spot elusive birds can also be as suspenseful and exciting as tracking
grass, and headed to an empty airstrip where someone big game. Searching for them, observing them, trying to identify as
had allegedly seen a violet-eared waxbill once, several many species as we can, has become the perfect excuse for us, as a
years ago. That’s how desperate we were. family, to visit some of the most beautiful places on earth.
One of andBeyond’s A critically
vehicles trails a pack endangered
of African wild dogs in wattled crane
the Okavango Delta. in flight.
The big draw in northern Botswana is the Chobe

River, a gently flowing waterway that attracts large
numbers of elephants, giraffes, buffalo, migratory
birds, and waterfowl. We could see many of these
animals on the riverbank from our veranda at the
Chobe Game Lodge, where the staff were exceptionally
kind and the menu featured local specialties such as
samp and beans. But the lodge’s most distinguishing
feature is the fact that, thanks to a pioneering, decades-
long effort, all 20 of its guides are women—a real rarity
My wife, Courtenay, and I used to live in Kenya, and our sons, anywhere in Africa.
12-year-old Apollo and 10-year-old Asa, grew up there, so we’ve On our first morning, Gobe Mmereki took us out on
been lucky enough to have gone on a number of safaris in East a pontoon boat. Mmereki is a real pioneer. She grew up
Africa. But I’d always been curious about Botswana, in the south in a village in eastern Botswana watching the National
of the continent—a country with the world’s largest population of Geographic channel and dreaming of becoming a
elephants, some of the most robust conservation policies in Africa, safari guide. She was the only woman in her training
and a long record of peace and stability. program. A lot of men had trouble believing she could
And the Okavango Delta area, a UNESCO World Heritage site drive a safari truck at first, she said. Of course she
covering almost 25,900 square kilometres of northwestern could, and now she was confidently piloting us up
Botswana, is one of the continent’s best preserved wildlife refuges. the Chobe River in a boat as the sky turned from soft
It’s a rare inland delta, formed where the Okavango River empties pink to a rich blue. The riverbanks were teeming with
into the desert and creates an oasis for an astonishing variety of wildlife, including a herd of elephants taking a playful
species, from endangered rhinos and African wild dogs to very rare bath, blasting each other with their trunks.
birds such as wattled cranes and slaty egrets. After living outside of As we puttered along, Lombard, the expert birder
Africa for five years, we were desperate to get back, and thought: who was our personal guide for the entire trip, swung
Let’s try something new. Let’s go to Botswana and do a bird safari. his binoculars toward the marshy riverbanks. (Expert
birders never rest. They’re always on the lookout for
W E B E G A N O U R T R I P in Kasane, a frontier town in the arid reaches something new, unusual, or rare.)
of northern Botswana, near the legendary Victoria Falls. Kasane “Apollo and Asa!” he called out. “Look. Right there!”
is where the borders of four African countries—Botswana, He stabbed his finger toward something. “There’s a
Zimbabwe, Zambia, and Namibia—converge, and since a slick ridiculously cool little bird.”
airport opened there in 2018, it has become a gateway for I lifted my binoculars to my eyes, but couldn’t see
travellers heading into the continent on safari. We connected anything but a blur of river grass.
through Johannesburg, South Africa, and broke our journey by “Come on, guys,” Lombard said with mock
spending three nights at a lodge outside Kasane on our way to the exasperation. “I’ve told you this before. You can’t look
Okavango, a couple of hundred miles south. at the bush. You have to look into the bush.”
Birds of Botswana
Blue-cheeked bee-eater Southern ground hornbill Swallow-tailed bee-eater

A sit-and-wait predator, it flies out from open Categorized as endangered, due to habitat loss Known for its ‘chirruping’ call–sometimes sung
perches to grab insects in midair. and slow reproductive rates. by a pair or small group.
Woodland kingfisher Burchell’s coucal Little bee-eater

Nests in hollow trees and cavities made by Named after British naturalist William John As the name suggests, this is Africa’s smallest
woodpeckers and barbets. Burchell, it eats amphibians, insects, and snails. bee-eater, at six to seven inches.
Snake eagle Lilac-breasted roller Spoonbill

This medium-size eagle preys on Named after its impressive courtship flight, A relative of the ibis, it uses its beak to catch
venomous snakes. which includes a side-to-side rolling motion. insects, crustaceans, and tiny fish.
A lion cub practices
hunting in long grass.
A quick word on Lombard. He’s tall, tan, and loves

short shorts. He looks like the Crocodile Dundee of
southern Africa. He was our paid friend the entire
trip, handpicked by andBeyond, the luxury travel
company that organised our safari. We met him at the
Johannesburg airport after stumbling off an overnight
economy flight from London, hardly looking our best;
both of our kids, come to think of it, had thrown up
on the plane. But he was our buddy to the bitter end,
and how lucky we were because of it. Not only did he
possess a jaw-dropping volume of wildlife knowledge,
especially about birds, but he brought something
even better: he was fun, always bursting with an
irrepressible and infectious enthusiasm about every
animal we saw, and constantly cracking us up.
“Oh my god,” he belted out on our second day at
Chobe while we were driving around looking for a
leopard. “That is another ridiculously rare bird. See
in that pond just before the sandpiper? It’s a female
pygmy goose!”
Of course, I thought: a pygmy goose! It was a small
peach-coloured bird with a white head that is relatively
uncommon, paddling around the water lilies and
feeding on the seeds and flowers.
As we drove away, Lombard marvelled at our good
luck—though it wasn’t just luck. We would have never
spotted that bird if it hadn’t been for his skill.
“Guys, we just found a pygmy goose while looking
for a leopard,” he declared, suddenly and immeasurably
“Wait,” Apollo said (he’s the bird expert in our family). “Is that a happy. “That right there is the beauty of birding.”
new one?” Before we left Chobe, I wanted to get a fuller sense
Lombard smiled. “Good work, Apollo. It is a new one. It’s a of where I was. It was my first time in Botswana and
black-winged pratincole.” I was itching to know what lay beyond the lodge
“A what-winged-what?” I asked. gates. So Lombard and I got a lift into Kasane, which
“A. Black. Winged. Pratincole,” he repeated very deliberately in was sunbaked and deserted but had one memorable
his crisp South African accent. “And it’s pretty rare.” landmark: growing in front of the police station was a
I have to be honest. When I finally got the little guy in my field hollowed-out old baobab tree that was once used as a
of vision and focused, my first thought was: What’s the big deal? It prison, with space for about 10 poor souls inside.
was a bird perhaps the size of a sparrow, with black wings, a white Looking up at the tree as warthogs trotted down
breast, and an orange beak. It was nowhere near as majestic as the the dusty main drag, I was suddenly aware of how far
goliath heron that had just swooped over us. It wasn’t making a cool I was from home. A Botswanan policeman leaning
sound or doing anything interesting at all. It was just rummaging against the tree seemed to read my mind.
around in the sandy riverbank with its beak, looking for bugs to eat. “You don’t have a prison like this in your country,
But the black-winged pratincole had a story. “It’s a migrant from do you?” he asked.
Russia,” Lombard explained, which meant it had flown thousands of
miles to get to this spot on the Chobe River. “They used to travel in OUR NEXT STOP was the Okavango, the focal point
massive flocks of 20,000, but they haven’t been seen in such of our trip. From Kasane we took a light airplane an
numbers for a long time. It’s possible that much of the world’s hour or so southwest, the bright morning sun slanting
population now lives in one large flock. Imagine if something in through the windows. Looking down, I didn’t see
happened to that one flock. It would be a mass extinction.” many other camps. Botswana follows what it calls a
Hearing his words changed the way I thought about birds. From “low impact, high return” tourism strategy that strictly
that moment on, I had more interest and more empathy for our limits the number of lodges in conservation areas and
friends in the sky. To the uninitiated, many might look alike. But as the beds within each. We flew over miles of white sand,
Lombard helped me appreciate, that just means you’re not looking waving grasslands, ash-coloured termite mounds rising
hard enough. like funeral plinths, and beaten animal paths leading like
veins to watering holes. When the pilot cracked open really scared. Later, in what felt like the middle of the night, some
the window, in came that rich smell of bush sage again. guinea fowl cackled. When we woke up and stepped out for
On the airstrip, a broad-shouldered man named breakfast, our “spotter,” who goes by Johnson, was standing in the
Harris Pullen greeted us at a table set up in the shade middle of a sandy path, head down, studying the ground.
of a thorn tree. “Predator,” he said. (Johnson, whose full name is Modala
“Mojito?” Molaimang, is one of those direct, no-BS types more comfortable
We hadn’t even made yet it to our next lodge, a reading the world of wild animals than small-talking with outsiders.)
remote and exquisite andBeyond property called He gruffly waved over the kids. They leaned down to get a closer look
Xaranna Okavango Delta Camp, yet here was Pullen, at a fresh footprint in the sand. Johnson pointed out a small notch.
the guest relations manager, handing me and “Claw,” he said.
Courtenay each a sweating glass. The drink was cool, This is one of the most thrilling things about going on a safari:
tart, and delicious. Right away I could tell that in you’re constantly piecing together information. From the tracks
andBeyond’s hands no one was going to suffer. in front of us, the alarm calls we had heard in the night, and the
But it wasn’t simply the luxury that made our position of the sun at this very moment, Johnson computed that a
experience so memorable. It was the way it was predator had skulked through the camp between 3:30 and 4 a.m.
done. Every single member of the staff was filled with He motioned to the truck. If we move now, he was implying, we
warmth. Pullen was constantly hooking us up with might be able to catch up with it.
great drinks. The chef, Lungile Mbangi, whipped up The seven of us motored out, following the footprints along a
amazing food at every meal: pancakes and crêpes at track until they broke off in the direction of a small forest. Johnson
the kids’ request, gorgeous salads and steaks. And dismounted, light, quick, barely making a sound. Usually, stepping out
somehow, in the two days that we were there, Yolande of a truck in a game park crawling with lethal predators is a big no-no.
Coetzer, the lodge manager, managed to squeeze in Courtenay turned to me, eyes wide with concern: “He’s walking.”
all the activities we wanted, from fishing to riding in Johnson moved like an infantryman: slowly, carefully, aware
dugout canoes. of everything around him, like something was about to spring
That first night at Xaranna, as we drifted off to out of the bushes. A few minutes later he climbed back into the
sleep in our tent, I heard alarm calls from a herd truck, whispering something to Dips, our lead guide, in Tswana,
of impalas—a hissy, throaty sound. I’d learned on Botswana’s national language. We rumbled forward. Then the car
previous safaris that impalas do that only when they’re abruptly stopped.
Above, from left: The lounge and dining area of andBeyond Xaranna, as seen from the jetty; lunch is served, tapas-style, at Xaranna.
Birds of Botswana
Black-winged stilt Giant eagle owl African fish eagle

Uses its long beak to harvest insects This large species has been known to play dead Has one of the most distinctive calls
and crustaceans under the water. when confronted by predators. of any African bird.
Egyptian goose Cattle egret Three-banded plover

This highly territorial waterbird has been Performs an elaborate mating display with its Inhabits wetland edges, where it forages
known to fight its own species. ornamental wing plumes. for insects in the mud.
Pel’s fishing owl Slaty egret Wattled crane

A striking species that is able to catch fish This bird seeks out sheltered, marshy areas, The largest of the African cranes, and the most
weighing up to 4½ pounds. where it dredges for fish with its feet. critically endangered.
A close-up of the
matriarch—the largest,
oldest female—of an
Okavango elephant herd.
Bi rd -watch i ng req u ires you
to slow down, clear your
mind, and really fo cus. It’s
like the Zen meditation of
wildlife tourism.
Johnson couldn’t suppress a smile as he turned

to us and said: “Lion.”
Two male lions lounged maybe 100 feet from
us, under an acacia tree, sitting with their heads
up and front paws straight in front of their bodies,
sphinxlike. They were enormous—scientists say
that Okavango lions are the biggest and strongest
in the world because of the plethora of game in
their ecosystem and the fact that they often have
to trudge through water to kill it. Apparently,
these two had been sitting in that very spot under
the acacia tree for some time, but no one had
seen them except Johnson, who rarely bothered
with binoculars. His eyes were the binoculars.
We pulled closer and then closer still. Unlike
other safaris I’ve done in East Africa, where every
carnivore has a ring of 10 trucks around it, this
time we were utterly alone. No other cars. No sign
of anyone. Just us and these two 400-pound apex
predators. Their paws were the size of oven mitts.
We were so close I could observe the individual
veins in their rip-you-to-shreds shoulders. Unlike
the others I’ve seen in the ‘wild’, these brutes were
clearly not accustomed to people staring at them.
I felt a sense of danger being so close. Their yellow
eyes tracked our every move.
“Look at the size of that belly,” Dips said. “He
must have had a buffalo or a zebra.”
I have to admit that, as spectacular as the
sighting was, I felt a sense of relief wash over me
as we drove away.
Back at the camp, we enjoyed our own feast—
amazing filets of Botswanan beef, salads, fresh
bread. Bellies stretched like lions, we waddled
back to our tents. They were elegant and spacious,
with polished wood floors and screens instead
of walls. Our bed came equipped with a small
air-conditioner, and as we tucked ourselves in, we
were surrounded by wafts of cool air, a cacophony
of whirling insect sounds and birdcalls—and the
occasional not-so-distant grunt of a lion.
Elephants in the
two days with activities
W E PA C K E D T H E N E X T
Okavango, as seen on that the kids especially liked. We fished in a shallow

the flight to Xaranna. pond and paddled around in mokoros, Botswana’s
distinctive flat-bottomed dugout canoes. It was
January, which is rainy season, so we had some ponds
to explore but not nearly as many as there would be in
a few months’ time. From July to September the skies
clear and the Cubango River that flows from Angola, in
the west, brings a staggering 10 trillion litres of water
washing across central Botswana, doubling the size of
the delta and transforming the dry savanna into one of
the world’s largest swamps. The Okavango becomes a
network of emerald-green islands and narrow channels
filled with hippos, fish, and waterbirds. Mokoros become
indispensable for navigating all of this and reaching
higher ground, where mammals like buffalo and zebras,
and all the predators that stalk them, concentrate in
almost unbelievable numbers.
But there’s no bad time to visit Botswana. When we
went, we still saw game in huge groups, and since it
was winter in the Northern Hemisphere we were able to
spot many migratory birds, like that pratincole that had
flown in from snowbound Russia.
As the days passed, we kept finding birds we hadn’t
seen before. We saw a striped kingfisher chase down
a dragonfly and snatch it with its beak. “The first kill
of the day,” Dips said. Asa spotted a lilac-breasted
roller, common but still astonishingly coloured.
“You can see its blue wings and the black-and
white-stuff underneath,” he observed. Lombard saw
ZAMBIA
CHOBRE
RI VE
Kasane
a humpbacked hadedah ibis squawking in a dead tree. “South

ZIMBABWE
Africans hate that bird. So noisy,” he scowled. “That’s a trash bird.”
O k a v a n g o He explained that, unlike mammals, most birds don’t have to
NAMIBIA D e l t a
worry about predators because they can fly away, meaning there’s
no need for camouflage. Instead, they flaunt spectacular colours to
attract mates across long distances. Ground birds, which are more
B OT S WA N A vulnerable to predators, tend not to be as colourful.
morning drive, Dips told us about the village at the

O N O N E E A R LY
edge of the delta where he grew up. His job was herding goats.
Gaborone
That is a hard life. I’ve seen it: little boys, aged 12 or younger, out
in the searing sun, surrounded by stalking predators, in charge of
protecting their family’s wealth. It was while doing this toil that
SOUTH AFRICA Dips fell in love with birds.
ILLUSTRAT ION BY D ONOUGH O’MALLE Y
“They were the only form of music we had,” he said. “We drew
motivation from them.”
He and the other boys devised ways to remember the birds they
GETTING THERE STAY heard. “I-am-the-red-eyed-dove, I-am-the-red-eyed-dove,” he said
Etihad (etihad.com) andBeyond offers
in the particular cadence of that bird’s call. Or “work-harder, work-
offers connecting flights eight-night Botswana harder,” in the purring rhythm of the Cape turtle dove.
to Maun from Mumbai birding safaris from While Dips was sharing this, I felt the truck lurch. Sudden,
via Johannesburg. `9,79,519 per person;
Okavango Delta is 147 km andbeyond.com violent movement in the back seat. Uh-oh.
from Maun. “Give it.”
A yellow-billed stork Burchell’s zebras
fishes in the shallows graze near Xaranna.
of the delta.
A few minutes later, though, watching two male impalas lick

each other’s faces, Asa said to Apollo with great tenderness,
“Imagine if you and I did that every morning.”
Dips overheard and said, “It would strengthen your bond forever.”
OUR L AST CAMP was Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge, another

andBeyond property. Internet access is available in the suites but
not the common areas, a way to encourage guests to stay off their
devices and socialise. The suites are huge, each with a plunge pool
on a deck overlooking the wetlands, where we spotted scores of
new birds.
Apollo had arrived in Botswana hoping to see a Pel’s fishing
owl, one of the world’s largest owls, and one afternoon, while
walking across Sandibe’s wooded grounds, he looked up into a tree
and saw two huge black eyes staring down at him. It was a Pel’s.
Apollo jumped up and down and Lombard, standing right next to
him, pumped his fist like a tennis player after smashing an ace.
“No, you give it.” He had probably seen a Pel’s countless times, but he was as into
“No, you give it.” the hunt as Apollo.
I whipped around. Apollo and Asa were tussling After that we got greedy.
over their identical pairs of Swarovski Optik “We’ve seen more than 175 different birds,” Asa said. “Let’s go
binoculars. Good binoculars make a difference, and for 200.”
these Austrian-made models, which andBeyond lends “Let’s find the violet-eared waxbill,” Apollo added. “I’ve heard
to guests on birding safaris, were very good. But of people saying that’s a really cool one.”
course there was some imperceptible difference That afternoon at the airstrip was actually our last full day. As
between the pairs my kids had been assigned, and Dips motioned for us to get out of the truck and follow him, he
one of them was accusing the other of switching stopped to listen again, and this time even I could hear a joyful
them. The contrast between Dips telling us how he whistling. We took a few quiet steps forward. Pause. Then a few
grew up herding goats and our kids fighting over more. And there in the bush, perched on a tiny thorn branch and
`82,318 binoculars was a bit much. Botswana, with no bigger than a shot glass, sat the magically coloured bird.
its diamond industry and long record of stability, I watched it for a few seconds. It heard us coming and retreated
has done much better than many other sub-Saharan deeper into the thicket, just like the bird books had warned. That
African countries. But it’s still vastly poorer than was all we got—a short, fleeting glimpse, like something from a
the U.S. or Europe, and the last thing I wanted to dream. But as we walked back to the truck, Apollo and Asa were
do was to come across as ungrateful or entitled. So beaming. “That really is a precious little bird,” Apollo said.
I snapped at the kids and then, for the first time, an It was the 205th bird species we had identified, not too shabby
uncomfortable silence fell over the truck. for a bunch of city slickers on a weeklong vacation. Botswana has
Courtenay finally broke it by turning to Lombard around 600 species; across the world, scientists say there are 11,000.
and asking, “Do all families fight?” So we didn’t quit there. We decided to go for more. Because
He sighed. “All families fight.” with birds, as with so much else in life, there is always more.
YO U R B E ST S H OT Uttam Gurjar was an entrant in
our ongoing ‘Your Best Shot’
contest. Submit your best shots
at [email protected], or
THI S I S A PHOTOGRAPH from the coastal town of use the hashtag #telltnlindia
Kanyakumari, located at the southernmost point of India. and tag @travelandleisureindia
After clicking a bunch of shots, I finally got the perfect frame on Instagram, to stand a chance
to get featured on this page.
with two village women hanging their washed clothes, while
their sari shields the sunlight. The renowned Vivekananda
Rock Memorial makes an appearance in the background.
—UT TAM GURJAR ON HIS PHOTO GRAPH, TAKEN WI TH NIKON Z7ii
ON JANUARY 30, 2023
THE HOME
OF SHOPPING

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The Intelligent Traveller

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