Fab

Contents
Chapter 1. Syllabus 3
Chapter 2. Introduction 4
2.1. Historical/ development of looms, 4
2.2. Classification of looms and description of various types of conventional looms. 4
2.3. Motions of looms. 6
Chapter 3. Looming: 8
3.1. Drafting 8
3.2. Drawing 8
3.1. denting, 8
3.2. pinning, 8
3.3. tying-in and gaiting: 8
3.4. Machineries involved in these processes. 9
Chapter 4. Sheds and Shedding: 10
4.1. Various types of shed. 10
4.2. Objective and classification of shedding, 13
4.3. Shedding 13
4.3.1. Tappet shedding:- 14
Chapter 5. Picking : 37
5.1. Classification 37
5.2. Over and under picking mechanisms. 38
5.3. Controlling factors of picking, 41
5.4. picking faults. 44
Chapter 6. Beating : 46
6.1. Classification, 46
6.2. principles of crank and crank arm, 47
6.4. Sley eccentricity ratio and its effects. 49
Chapter 7. Take-up & Let-off Mechanisms : 50
7.1. Classification, 50
Chapter 8. Automatic Conventional Weaving: 62
8.1. Features of automatic looms, 62
8.2. weft replenishments, 63
8.3. methods of warp and weft patterning 64
8.4. warp protector motion 64
8.5. causes of warp and weft breakage in weaving, 66
8.5.1. warp stop motions, 66
8.5.2. side and centre weft fork mechanism. 68
Chapter 9. Jacquard weaving: 70
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 9.1. Different Jacquard looms. 70
9.2. Systems of harness mounting, 70
Chapter 10. Modern weaving 71
10.1. Features of modern looms 71
10.2. brief study of Shuttle less Loom 71
10.2.1. Projectile Loom 71
Chapter 11. Loom efficiency with controlling factors, 76
11.1. Layout of a particular weaving floor, 79
11.2. Utilities required for weaving 80
Chapter 12. Fabric faults-their causes and remedies, 80
12.1. Standard commercial fabrics (jute/ cotton/ synthetic). 81
Chapter 13. Related Calculation 82

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Page 4 of 84
Chapter 1. Introduction
1.1. Historical/ development of looms,
Chronological/ Historical development of loom:
8000 years back, linen fabric is found at pyramid in Egypt
4000 years back, silk fabric in Chinese emperor.

Classification:

1. Vertical loom: Damask, Tapestry.

2. Pit loom.
3. Frame loom.
Hand Loom 4. Chittarangan/ Semi-automatic loom;
Take up automatic but let off manually.
5. Hattersley loom.
6. Natural Source/ Ordinary power loom:
I) Water wheel was until 1950
II) Steam engine
III) Diesel engine
7. Electric power loom;
1st power loom 1784
1st weaving mill with power loom 1789
I) Large single motor
II) Large group motor
III) Individual motor with 1930
8. Modern loom:
I) Projectile
II) Rapier
III) Air Jet
IV) Water Jet
V) Multiphase
1.2. Classification of looms and description of various types of conventional looms.
Power development/ Loom drive:
1. Hand loom: Human power drive.
2. Power loom:
I) Water Wheel.
II) Steam engine.
III) Diesel engine.
IV) Electric motor.
Large common motor (200 loom/motor)
Group motor e.g. 200 loom/motor
Individual motor: 1930
I) Direct drive. II) Indirect drive
Multiple motor: for each modern loom.

Disadvantages of common source of power/ common motor drive:

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 I) Chance of power loss: On average 20% loom cannot run for various reasons:
 Absenteeism of worker
 Shortage of raw materials
 Shortage of work order
 Style change
 Shortage of spare parts
 Natural calamities
 Load-shedding
 Political disturbance

II) Clumsy shed condition: As motion is transferred from main shaft via belts and shafts so in
some cases they are in irregular manner and that is why, a clumsy appearance of shed occurs.
III) Poor visibility: Due to more shafts and belts.
IV) Dirt, oil and danger from driving shafts and belts i.e. possibility of accident.

Advantages:
I) Minimum cable required.
II) Less man power required.
III) Less fire hazard.
IV) Less initial cost.
V) Less electric complexity.

Disadvantages of grouped motor:

 Risk of fire hazard
 Cost of electrical items
 More investment cost

Advantages:
 Saves power energy
 Less risk of accident
 Reduce complex transmission of driving system

Advantages of individual motor drive:

 Randomly power supply
 Power saving
 Simple driving system
 Least amount of production

Disadvantages:
 Higher initial cost
 More cable required
 More possibility of fire hazard
 Maximum electric personnel required
 Distribution & sub distribution board required

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  Complexity of electric cable line
 High manpower

Loom drive: Methods of power drive in weaving/loom:

1. Direct drive
2. Indirect drive
1. Direct drive:
 Loom driven directly by on-off system of motor
 High initial torque is required
 Saves energy
 No side-way thrust is required
 High initial cost
 Used in Jute loom, Modern loom
 No use of clutch
 High power consumption of motor

2. Indirect drive:
 Clutch declutch system i.e. At first motor drive, the clutch drive and loom runs
 Low initial torque
 Apply undesirable side-way thrust (special thrust bearing)
 Wear of main shaft bearing
 Loss of power
 Used in cotton/conventional loom
 Low initial cost
 Low power consumption of motor

How energy is saved in direct drive:

In running condition of loom, the loom is stopped due to-
 Exhausting of the pirn
 Weft breaks
 Warp breaks
 Mechanical draft
The motor does not run instantly due to stop of the loom. So power is not consumption.

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 1.3. Motions of looms.

Secondary Motion

Warp Protector Motion

Tertiary Motion
Primary Motion

Warp Stop motion

Weft Stop Motion

Automation
Shedding

Take up
Beating

Let- off
Picking

Primary Motion
Shedding Picking Beating
Hand Shuttle picking Crank beat up
Paddle Shuttleless Picking Cam beat up
Tappet Projectile
Dobby Rapier
Jacquard Air jet
Motor Driven Water jet
Crank Multiphase

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 Secondary Motion
Take up motion Let off Motion
5 wheel take up Negative Let off
7 wheel take up Semi Positive Let off
9 wheel take up Positive Let off
toyota take up Modern Let off with servo motor
picanol take up
etc

Tertiary Motion
Warp Stop Weft Stop Warp Protector Automation
motion Motion Motion Auto knot
Mechanical Mechanical Loose reed Auto splice
Electrical Electrical Fast reed Pick finder
forward
Backward
etc

Chapter 2. Looming:
2.1. Drafting
Planning of heald shafts is called drafting. No. of heald shafts, allocation of heald shafts for warp
yarns is called drafting plan.
2.2. Drawing
Passing of warp yarn through heald wire according to drafting plan is Drawing.
1.1. denting,
Passing of warp yarn through dent of the reed is called denting.
2.3. pinning,
Passing of warp yarn through dropper is called pinning.
2.4. tying-in and gaiting:

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when same design is continuing beam after beam then only ends are required to knot to each other.
Then simply tying in is done.
If the design or construction is changed in the loom then gaiting is done. It mean all the healds and
reed are set newly.

2.5. Machineries involved in these processes.

Process Previous Process Modern Process

Drafting Graph Paper Calculation Weaving CAD
Drawing Manually Auto Drawing Machine
Denting Manually Auto Denting Machine
Pinning Manually Auto pinning Machine
Tying in Manually Auto knotting Machine
Gaiting Manually Crane

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Chapter 3. Sheds and Shedding:
Division of warp threads into two parts for insertion of weft threads is called shed and the
mechanism of shed is called shedding, it is the first primary motion of weaving.

3.1. Various types of shed.

Types of shed:
1. Bottom close shed
2. Centre close shed
3. Semi-open shed
4. Open shed
Types of Shed

Bottom Close Shed

Close Shed
Centre Close Shed

Fully open Shed

Open Shed
Semi Open Shed

1. Bottom close shed:

This type of shedding is produced by giving motion only to threads that are to form the upper line.
Under this condition, the warp is level on the bottom line. Hence in order to form a top shed, it is
necessary to move some threads through a space equal to twice the depth of a shed, once up and
down, before a fresh selection is made. A shed of this kind is known as stationary bottom with a
rising and falling top.
B
C
A

A Bottom line of warp

B Rising and falling line
C An arrow showing the space passed through

Advantages:
I) Alternate tightening and slackening the warp threads produce a covered cloth
II) Produce fire fabric (silk)
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 III) Used in hand loom

Disadvantages:
I) More stress or tension on the top warp line and less tension on the bottom warp
line.
II) More chance of breakage on top warp line
III) Unequal warp tension produces poor quality fabric
IV) Loom speed/ weaving speed is slower
V) Not possible to produce compact fabric
VI) More power consumption
VII) More time required

2. Centre close shed:

This type of shed is produced by imparting an upward movement to those threads which are to form
the top line and the downward movement to the threads which are to form the bottom line. Then after
inserting a pick, both the lines meet at the center between the highest and lowest lines of a divided
warp.

B
D
A
A
E
C

A Closed warp line

B, C Upper and lower lines of a divided warp respectively
D Arrow showing the half distance of a shed in an upward direction
E Arrow showing the half distance of a shed in a downward direction

Advantages:
I) Equal tension on the top and bottom warp line
II) Less time required so high production
III) Less wear of the m/c
IV) Less power consumption
V) Less tear of the threads

Disadvantages:
I) Beat up takes place in the closed shed condition
II) There is a chance of weft being moved backward
III) Compact fabric cannot be produced by this shed

3. Semi-open shed:

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In this shed, the stationary bottom is retained but threads for the top line either passes to bottom at
one movement and again carried to the top mid-way and again carried to top. In this shed close and
open shed occurred simultaneously. In it the stationary bottom line is retained, but threads for the top
line either pass to the bottom at one movement, or are arrested midway and again carried to the top.
Such a shed can be formed as expeditiously as an open shed, for the upward movement begins and
ends with the downward through movement, and the arrested downward movement is converted into
an upward movement immediately the falling threads are in the same plane as the rising ones. They
all reach the top together but the strain upon them is not equally distributed.
F

B D
E
C
A

A Stationary bottom line

B Top point
C The point where downward movement ceases in threads
D, E Showing the movement of through healds
F Arrow showing the threads which are to lift for the next pick

Advantages:
I) Equal tension on the top and bottom warp line
II) All the warp yarns are not required to move up and down in every pick
III) Beat up takes places in the cross-shed condition
IV) The loom can run at a faster speed
V) Possible to produce compact fabric
VI) Less complexity or disturbance in the shedding mechanism
VII) Used in power, dobby & jacquard loom
VIII) For fancy fabric
IX) Less power consumption
X) Less tear of threads

Disadvantages:
I) Unusable movement

4. Open shed:
In open shed, the warp threads form two stationary lines, the top line and the bottom line and
changes are made by carrying the threads from one fixed line to the other without any interval.

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 B D
C

A, B Stationary warp line

C, D Arrows which show the movement of rising and falling warp to equal the distance between A
&B

Advantages:
I) Beat up takes place in cross-shed condition
II) Equal tension on the top and bottom warp line
III) The loom can run at a fastest speed
IV) Extensively used in tappet shedding mechanism
V) Basic fabric (twill, sateen, plain) can be produced.
VI) Less power consumption
VII) Less wear of the weaving m/c

Disadvantages:
I) High breakage rate
II) If higher no of healds are used then the warp in back healds are more strained than the
front ones
III) Leveling apparatus should be added to open shed to place the headls in one plane.
3.2. Objective and classification of shedding,

Shedding Tappet

Positive Dobby

Crank

Motor Driven

pneumetic

Hand

Negative Paddle
Tappet
Dobby
Jacquard
Combined

3.3. Shedding
Cost of loom: Tappet > Dobby > Jacquard

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Design capacity: # Simplest(Tappet) # Medium(Dobby) # Elaborate(Jacquard)
Speed: Tappet > Dobby > Jacquard
Cost of production: # Lowest(Tappet) # Lower(Dobby) # Low(Jacquard)
Scope of Tappet: 12 heald shaft

3.3.1. Tappet shedding:-

Principle of Tappet shedding:
 In the figure, a pair of shedding tappet is connected to bottom shaft or tappet shaft and
two treadle lever is pivoted.
 When two tappets rotate/moves due to rotation of bottom shaft, nose of tappets pushes
springs continuously the anti-friction bowl on treadle lever. As one end of the treadle
lever is pivoted, the other end of treadle lowered.

Basic principle of Tappet shedding:

A and B - Tappets
C - Bottom shaft
D and E - Treadle levers
F - Fulcrum
G and H - Lamb rods
J and K - Heald shafts
L and M - Leather straps
N - Top reversing roller
(Smaller dia)
P - Top reversing roller
(Bigger dia)
Q - Top reversing roller
shaft
R and S - Bowls
T - Heald eye
U - Heald eye
V - Weft yarn
W - Lease rods
X - War p sheet

Y - Cloth

 This treadle lever is joined with heald shaft or frame by using rope or chain. And heald
shaft is joined with top rollers by rope. For this the heald frame lowered with warp yarn.

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  The other heald shaft moves upwards due to lowered of other heald frame
 As a result, the warp yarn from a shed and continuously shedding operation performed.

Difference between Tappet & Ordinary cam:

Tappet Ordinary cam
1. It gives motion to a shaft to receive a 1. It gives a continuous reciprocating
series of lifts with intervals of rests. motion
2. It is mainly used to produced shed 2. It may be used for many purposes
3. All tappets are cam 3. All cams are not tappet

Conditions of good shedding:

 A shed should be as small as the nature of the work to be done
 Healds should be placed at right angles with the warp threads
 Exact vertical movement of the heald shafts are required
 Perfect leveling of the heald shaft
 The heald shafts must begin to move slowly

Describe a shedding mechanism which will produce open shed:

Ratio between top shaft RPM and bottom shaft RPM = 2:1
2 tappets on tappet/bottom shaft on plain weave and the ratio between top and bottom shaft is 2:1

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When top shaft rotates two times, then bottom shaft rotates one time. Then 2 times shedding and 1
time picking.
Bottom shaft does not contain more than 2 tappets.
If bottom shaft contains 3 tappets, produce 3 times beating and 3 times picking which is not real. i.e.
picking mechanism is always mounted on the bottom shaft and picking takes place alternatively from
the opposite side for each revolution of bottom shaft, 2 picks are inserted. That’s why, the RPM if
crank shaft is twice than that of bottom shaft.
Types of shedding tappet:
Various kinds of shedding tappets are in use in the industry. They are constructed on two principles-
i) Negative shedding tappet.
ii) Positive shedding tappet.
i) Negative shedding tappet:
All negative shedding tappets require the addition of pullers, stocks and bowls, springs or dead
weights to reverse either pulls the heald down or lifts it.
Lifting  Mechanically
Lowering  Spring
The negative shedding tappets are the following-
 The ordinary plain and twill weave shedding tappets.
 Jamiesons tappets, and
 The barrel tappet
ii) Positive shedding tappet:
The positive shedding tappets give both upward and downward movements to healds without the
aid of any additional mechanism. But pulleys and stocks and bowls are based on compensating
principle
Lifting and Lowering  Mechanically
The positive shedding tappets are the following
 Woodcrafts section tappet
 The oscillating tappet

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  Nutralls chain tappet, and
 Scroll tappets

Position of fixation of tappets:

1. Over or Under one end of the heald shaft
2. Over or Under the middle of heald shaft
3. Outside of the loom frame

1. Over or under one end of the heald shaft:

When tappets are placed over or under one end of the heald shaft
then pressure is applied at only one side of heald shaft. Hence
connecting cards should be used on two sides.

Advantages:
I) easy access for fixing or mounting of the tappets and other
relative parts relative parts and connections.

Disadvantages:
I) Unbalanced loading or unequal shedding.
II) If the tappets are mounted over the heald frames, then
there will be possibilities of oil dropping on the warp
yarn.
III) It is possible but not practice.

2. Over or under the middle of heald shaft:

When the tappet is placed over the centre of heald shafts then the oil, grease etc applied to treadle
bowl for antifriction property may fall on the fabric and contaminate it when placed under the heald
shafts, some difficulties may arise while cleaning.

Advantages:
I) Equal loading or shedding
II) Extensively used for conventional loom

Disadvantages:
I) Difficult access for tappet mounting, fixing or other settings.
II) Oil dropping if tappet is over the heald frame.

3. Outside of the loom frame:

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In this system, its easy to clear the tappets and to apply grease, oil to treadle bowl and easy
maintenance can be done. But it requires more space.

Advantages:
I) Though the tappets are mounted at one
end of heald frame it works perfectly
due to excellent mechanical setting.
II) Positive tappets shedding mechanism
is used for this kind of system
III) Easy access for maintenance and
setting

Disadvantages:
I) Initial investment cost is higher

Tappet driving:
1. The plain weave tappets are usually place on the bottom shaft as the former give two picks to the
round. But in case of weaving a twill or satin, the tappets are always placed on a short shaft
known as counter shaft. The bottom shaft imparts motion to the counter shaft either directly or
through a carrier wheel. The counter shaft must always rotate once for as many picks as there are
to round.
2. The relative speed of the crank shaft and the bottom shaft is 2:1 In weaving, say, a five shaft will
be driven two and halt times slower than the bottom shaft in order to make one complete
revolution in one repeat of the design. Thus in this weave, the three shafts will have the following
rotation of speed:
Counter shaft  2 rev.
Bottom shaft  5 rev.
Crank shaft  10 rev.

Tappet mounting on the bottom shaft

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Tappet mounting on the counter shaft.

3. The size or no. of teeth in the counter shaft wheel can be calculated by using the following rule:
No of teeth in the driver bottom shaft pinion  Picks to the round
2
= Teeth required in the counter shaft driven wheel.
Say, the driver bottom shaft pinion has 24 teeth;
Teeth in the counter shaft wheel required for 24  5five
the shaft weave =
2 = 60 teeth
Driving for five shaft weave shedding tappets which are
placed under the heald and fixed upon a counter shaft.
A  Counter shaft
B  Crank shaft wheel = 40T
C  Bottom shaft wheel = 80T
D  Driver bottom shaft pinion = 24T
E  Intermediate wheel
F  Counter shaft wheel = 60T
Z  Crank shaft
The rev. of counter shaft A will be to those of the crank shaft ‘Z’ as 1:5
40  24 1
Or, 60  80 = 5 = 1:5
The size or number of teeth in the driver bottom shaft pinion D can be calculated by-
No. of teeth in the counter shaft wheel  2
No. of picks to the round
= Teeth required in the driver bottom shaft pinion
60  2
Or, 5 = 24 teeth in the driver bottom shaft pinion

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4. The driver bottom shaft pinion with fewer teeth than 20 is not commonly used as this wheel is
rarely changed. Again to drive tappets having a large no. of picks to the round, compounded
intermediate wheels are used.
5. The mounting angle of tappet on shaft can be found out by the following rule-
360 0
Angle of tappet mounting = No. of tappet on the shaft

Ratio of RPM of Top, Bottom and Counter shaft:

PPM Crank Bottom Counter Tappet No. of of Ratio Ratio
shaft shaft shaft Design divivision between between
tappets T.S. & B.S. &
/No. of C.S. C.S.
loom
cycle in
tappet
200 200 100 0 2 × ×

300 300 150 100 3 3:1 3:2

400 400 200 100 , 4 4:1 2:1

Advantages of tappet shedding:

1. Simplest
2. Cheapest of all shedding motions.
3. If conveniently employed, it gives the best result within its capacity.
4. Action is certain
5. It is capable of lifting heavy weights with less wear and tear of the m/c than other shedding
appliances
6. Less wear and tear
7. It can move healds at high speeds
8. Dwell period may be adjusted to suit the type of fabric to be woven
9. Puts less strain upon the warp threads
10. consumes less power and give greater output
11. It causes fewer defects to the fabric
Defects of tappet shedding:
1. Over shedding strains and breaks the warp threads
2. Under shedding does not permit the passage of the shuttle through the shed
3. Sometimes unequal shedding by lifting one end of the shaft more than the other
4. Missed shedding

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 5. Unsuited dwell period
6. May impart jerky motion
7. Half a revolution contact time between bowl and tappet gives severe blow to the healds
Dwell period:
Dwell is the stationary period when the heald frames do not change their position and the shade
remains open to allow the passage of the shuttle from one shuttle box to the other
Factors affecting dwell of tappet/Points to be considered with dwell period:
 If the loom width is lower, then dwell period will lower.
 Weave structure: complex structure  DP↑
Simple structure  DP↓
 Reed space lower and dwell period lower
 No. of warp yarn per inch/ self ends per inch – Shorter dwell period
 Higher picking force – Shorter dwell period
 Type of yarn: for, Finer yarn, shorter dwell period
And for, coarser yarn, higher dwell period

Construction of shedding Tappet: For plain weave:

Points to be taken under consideration:-
1
1. Weave design: 1 plain
2. Lift of the tappet: 4″
3. The distance from the center of the driving shaft to the nearest point of contact with the treadle
bowl - 2″
4. Diameter of the treadle bowl - 2″
1
5. Dwell period = 3 of a pick
Construction:
1. A circle ‘A’ is drawn of 2 in radius representing the distance from the centre of the driving
shaft or bottom shaft to the nearest point of contact with the treadle bowl.
2. A circle ‘B’ is drawn by adding radius of treadle bowl with A i.e. A = 2, B=A+1=3
3. A circle ‘C’ is drawn of 7. 4 are added for the lift of the tappet. i.e. C=B+4=7
4. The pattern being a plain one, the circles must be divided into two equal parts and each half
circle will then represent one pick indicated by the line DE

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 5. Each half circle is divided into three equal parts by lines FK, GH
6. Each of FH and GK is divided into six equal parts
7. A semicircle L is drawn between B and C at a radius of half of the lift of the tappet (i.e. 2)
8. Divide the circumference of the semicircle into six equal parts
9. Draw perpendicular from the dividing points of the semicircle on the line GH. This gives six
unequal divisions on the lift to obtain the desired eccentric shape of the tappet.
10. From the corners of these unequal spaces and with the radius of the treadle bowl, the drawn
circles represent the position of the treadle bowl at different parts of its movement.
11. The curved lines are drawn touching the extremities of the treadle bowl. This gives the outline
of the plain weave tappet.

Problem:
1. Find out the PPM of the loom from the loom from the following information:-
Motor rpm = 950
Motor pulley dia = 3″
M/C pulley dia = 8″
Crank shaft wheel = 74 T (2:03sp)
Solution:
PPM
= Counter shaft
No of Tappet
 PPM = 75×4
= 200
Crank shaft = 300 rpm
Bottom shaft = 150 rpm
2. Find the production/hour of a loom in which the auxiliary shaft is running at 50 rpm, and there
are 4 picks to the round, assume PPI = 40 (3:03sp)
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 PPM
= Counter shaft
No of Tappet
 PPM = Auxiliary or counter ×4
=50×4
=200
PPM 200×60
Production= =
PPI 40×36
= 8.3yds/hr

3. Find out the rpm of bottom shaft, crank shaft and picks per minute from the following data:-
No. of teeth in the crank shaft = 75 & picks to the round = 4. (3:02)
3
PPM  950 
8
 356.25
4. Find RPM of bottom shaft, Crank shaft and PPM from data-
No. of teeth in crank shaft = 48T
RPM of counter shaft = 75
Picks to the round = 4
PPM
= Counter shaft
No of Tappet
 PPM = Auxiliary or counter ×4
PPM = 75  4
= 300
Crank shaft = 300
300
Bottom shaft =  150
2

Positive tappet:

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 F

Positive tappet driving system

Page 25 of 84
By timing belt

Cam box

3.3.1.1. Timing and dwell period.

Dwell period:
Dwell is the stationary period when the heald frames do not change their position and the shade
remains open to allow the passage of the shuttle from one shuttle box to the other
Factors affecting dwell of tappet/Points to be considered with dwell period:
 If the loom width is lower, then dwell period will lower.
 Weave structure: complex structure  DP↑
Simple structure  DP↓
 Reed space lower and dwell period lower
 No. of warp yarn per inch/ self ends per inch – Shorter dwell period
 Higher picking force – Shorter dwell period
 Type of yarn: for, Finer yarn, shorter dwell period
And for, coarser yarn, higher dwell period

3.3.2. Dobby shedding- mechanisms,

Dobby:
The dobby is a shedding device placed on the top of a loom in order to produce figure patters by
using a larger number of healds than the capacity of a tappet.
Dobby is a mechanism attached with a loom for controlling the movements of heald shafts.

Scope of dobby:
The scope of dobby is limited between the uses of tappets and jacquards. When the no of shafts to be
controlled or the picks to a repeat of the design is beyond the range of a shedding tappet, but is at the
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same time too small to be economically produced by a jacquard, this dobby mechanism is used. The
no of heald shafts which can be actuated by dobby, varies between 6 and 40

Dobby:
Theoretically; 48 heald frame/ warps in a repeat.
Application/ Practical; 36 heald frame for long staple yarn (wool, jute, flax)
Application; 24 heald frame for cotton (Basic weave structure)
Tappet: 14 heald frame.

Classification of dobby:
Various ways of classifying dobby loom:-
A) According to the figuring capacity
12
B) According to lift
1. Single-acting or single lift
2. Double acting or double lift
C) According to position of dobby with loom
1. Horizontal loom
2. Vertical loom
D) According to driving of heald shaft
1. Positive
2. Negative
E) According to type of shed
1. Bottom close shed
2. Semi-open shed
3. Open shed
F) According to no jack lever
1. Single
2. Double
G) Broadly
1. Ordinary dobby
2. Special dobby
H) Source of control
1. Mechanical dobby
2. Electric dobby

Negative (Climax, Hook & Knife) dobby:

In this fig, A and B are two complementary jack levers, operated from the same baulk-lever 1,
controlled by hooks P and Q to govern the heald. The baulk-levers are centered on a pin. The
distinctive features of this dobby are the construction of the outer jack leer A in one part. Instead of
two parts and it’s attachment with the inner jack by means of a link C. the peg-levers or feelers Y
and Z are modifications of the levers SY and TY and sufficiently weighted at the back so as to make
their own gravity.

Other arrangements of this dobby remain the same as those of the ‘Keighley’. The jack levers A and
B are fulcrumed at H and I respectively.
Page 27 of 84
There is a pattern cylinder below the feelers. There is a peg chain in a pattern cylinder and it is made
according to fabric design.

Construction:

Working principle:
I) When the connecting rod moves up and down and T-lever gives outward and inward
movement.
II) According to fabric design, when peg come in contact with the feeler, then the right portion
of feeler is raised and the left portion being lowered. As hooks are supported with feeler;
hooks are lowered.
III) When the left end of feeler is lowered, then upper hook came in contact with upper knife. In
this state, when connecting rod moves down, the upper portion of T-levers gives outward
movement.
IV) As a result, upper portion of S-lever, baulk lever also moves to the right side. Thus a pull
create on timber lever and link.
V) As outside and inside jack lever joined with timber lever and link, the lever moves up at the
same time.
VI) Hence the heald shaft rose up.

Page 28 of 84
 VII)Similarly when the left end of feeler (Y) is lowered, then lower hook come in contact with
lower knife. In this state, when connecting rod moves up and the bottom portion of T-lever
moves to the right side.
VIII) As a result, bottom portion of S-lever moves to the right and the same process occurs
i.e. top portion of the baulk lever moves to the right. Jack levers are moved up at the same
time.
IX) Hence the heald shaft again rose.
X) Thus a heald shaft is alternatively raised by the upper knife and lower knife.
XI) The shaft will therefore be lowered with the help of return spring and will remain down for
next pick.

Positive dobby: Knowles dobby:

Construction:
C1 and C2 are two half toothed cylinders. C1 rotates in anticlockwise direction and C2 rotates in
clockwise direction and remain fixed in their position. In between them A is a toothed disc which is
fixed with a connecting lever or link L. this toothed disk has two vertically opposite positions having
no teeth. The lifting lever/feeling lever is pivoted at position M. under the feeling lever, there is a
pattern cylinder P on which pattern chain j remains. The pattern chain is made of bowls. The upper
arm of hack lever N is joined with the lower end of heald frame and the lower arm of jack lever is
joined with that of upper by connecting cord D. the jack lever is fulcrumed at S.

Working principle:
I) According to design of fabric, the bowls are placed on pattern chain.
II) Due to rotation of pattern cylinder when a bowl comes under the feeler lever, then the lever
moves upward.
III) As a result the toothed disc(A) goes upward and becomes engaged with the top segment
cylinder C1. as the top segment cylinder(C1) rotates in anticlockwise direction, the toothed
disc(A) rotates in clock wise direction due to its clockwise rotation the connecting lever moves
to right side.
IV) As a result, the jack lever pulls the connecting cord and the heald frame goes downwards.

Page 29 of 84
 V) Again when there is no bowl under feeler lever the toothed disc(A) moves downward and
becomes engaged with bottom segment cylinder C2. Now as C2 rotates in sockeye direction,
the toothed disc(A) will rotate in anticlockwise direction.
VI) So the connecting lever will now move to left side. As a result the jack lever will now
experience an upward pull via connecting cord.
VII) The toothed disc A, in both case, will give half a revolution as the cylinders(C1 & C2) have
tooth around half of their periphery.
VIII) The rotation of toothed is controlled by slot and peg. When the edge of slot is hindered by
peg, then the rotation of toothed disc stops.

Advantages:
 Used for wool weaving
 Most of design can be produced by his dobby
 Able to control shuttle box and shedding take up

Disadvantages:
 Less speed
 Less production
 Jack missing

Cam dobby

Objective:
 To impart smooth, no jerking movement to the heald frame
 To facilitate the weaving of delicate silk and filament yarn

Page 30 of 84
 fig: Cam Dobby

Construction:
I) In cam dobby, two cams are mounted on a common cam shaft which gets motion from crank
shaft via chain or gearing. The dwell period can be adjusted as required by cam.
II) On the surface of each cam there is a bowl which is joined with the help of spring. The twp
knives are pivoted at a point and are in touch of bowl through an arm.
III) The two knives are engaged with two different hooks(upper and lower hook) at their ends.
Again two hooks are joined with a common baulk lever at two different points.
IV) Again the two hooks are joined with two different feelers by long and short needle respectively.
These two feelers control the two hooks with the help of pattern chain and pattern cylinder
placed below them. The feelers get upward and downward movement according to the peg plan
of pattern chain according to fabric design.
V) On the other hand, the baulk lever is joined with a jack lever. The jack lever is joined with heald
shaft by ropes/cords via two guide pulleys. The jack lever lifts the heald shaft/frame but the
frame is lowered by spring mechanism,

Working principle:
I) The fellers move upward and downward according to design of peg plan on pattern chain.
Whenever the feeler goes upward the corresponding needle pushes the hook up and that hook
becomes engaged with draw knife.
II) On the other hand when cam rotates the corresponding bowl comes in contact with it and moves
forward to the left side. As the knife is joined with bowl, when bowl moves the knife experience
a pull. At this movement if the corresponding hook is engaged with the pulled knife, the hook
also moves to left. During this movement it pulls the baulk lever engaged with it and the bulk
lever pulls jack lever. Thus the jack lever pulls the heald frame upward via pulley mechanism.
III) Similarly when the cam is not in touch of knife through bowl, the knife does not experience any
pull and co it does not pull the corresponding hook towards itself.
IV) Thus the alternative outward and inward movement of knife causes shedding in this dobby.

Suitability of cam dobby:

This dobby is suitable for weaving man made mono filament and delicate yarn. Because it gives no
jarking to the heald shaft. Silk is also weavable in this dobby. But here no natural monofilament is
weaveable.

Advantages:
 Smooth in operation
 No jerkey movement
Page 31 of 84
  No filamentation or rough treatment on yarn

Cross-Border dobby:

Object:
 To form X-border fabric

Construction:
I) In cross border dobby, two knives(upper & lower) are connected to T-lever. In two knives, two
sets hooks are present and S lever is connected to the end of the hooks and control lever is
present to the below of hook. Control lever is connected to cylinder arm with swing bracket and
two cylinders are in the two ends of the cylinder arm. There is another master lag chain to the
under of control lever. In the cylinders; peg plan are set to the diagram. Outward jack lever is
one end to S-lever and inward jack lever is connected with link. Heald shaft are connected to the
both jack lever.

Fig: Cross-border dobby

Working principle:
I) T-lever moves by getting power from driving shaft and knife moves forward and backward.
II) Hook and knife pulls with the help of peg plan of design cylinder and S-lever gets pulls and T-
lever ascends upwards both outward and inward jack lever. As a result, heald shafts also
ascend upwards.
III) X-design and running design is performed with the help of cross lag chain/border lag chain
and ground lag chain.
IV) Peg plain is occurred in border lag chain and another cylinder stop. When design of border lag
chain are finished, swing bracket is placed to border lag chain cylinder. Then peg plan of
ground peg cylinder shed is formed.
V) The changes of cylinders are controlled by master cylinder. Peg plan is given to the master
cylinder according to pick of ground or border design.
VI) Mechanism of cross borders performs continuously.

Page 32 of 84
Can we produce cross-border dobby in ordinary dobby?
We normally cannot produce X-border dobby in ordinary dobby. But for X-border design, change
lag chain and changing peg plan. For this, the extra cross border lag chain and master cylinder is
added to ordinary dobby and cross border design is set to the chain of master cylinder.

Disadvantages:
 When we change the design, we need to change the mechanical construction/support
 The loom must be stop when change design
 Quality will be hampered

Uses of dobby:
 In cotton industry, maximum 24 shafts dobbies used. But mostly 16 to 20 shafts are used.
 In worsted industry, dobbies with 36 jacks are in use and many of them are positive in action
and suitable for heavy shedding.
 Dobbies are extensively used for weaving twills, sateen and other simple weaves.
 Dobbies offer better facilities for producing a variety of patterns with more no. of healds than
that is possible with tappets.
 The chance of pattern in the cloth, in dobby loom, can be readily done, where as it is
laborious and expensive in case of tappet.

Difference between positive dobby & negative dobby:

Positive dobby Negative dobby
1. Both raising and lowering of the heald 1. Only raising of heald shafts is controlled
shafts are controlled mechanically. mechanically.
Positive dobby Negative dobby
2. Arrangement of spring or dear weight is 2. Arrangement of spring or dead weight is
not required. required for lowering the healed shafts.
3. Normally open shed produce. 3. Normally closed/semi-open shed is
produced.
4. Two extra heald shafts are required. 4. No extra heald shaft required.

5. Normally heavy fabric and coarse fabric 5. Light and medium fabric.
produced.
6. Low speed of frame. 6. High speed of loom.
7. Less stress and strain in warp sheet. 7. High stress and strain on warp.

8. This loom is driven by crank shaft. 8. Driven by bottom shaft.

Compare between Tappet, Dobby and Jacquard shedding:

Tappet shedding Dobby shedding Jacquard shedding
1. Design capacity- simplest 1. Medium i.e. complex 1. Elaborate i.e. very
complex
2. Cost of loom- most costly 2. Less 2. Very less

Page 33 of 84
 3. Loom speed- very high 3. Medium to high 3. Slow

4. Maximum no. of heald 4. Theoretically it can 4. Theoretically it can

shafts- 14 controls maximum 48 control any no. of warp
heald frames. In wool, thread individually
practically 36 heald
In cotton, 24
5. Tappet is placed 5. Above the loom 5. Above the loom
generally below the loom

6. Cost of production- 6. Lower 6. Low

lowest
7. For different designs 7. For different designs, 7. For different design,
different tappets are fitted different design of different designed
to bottom shaft pegging legs are placed pinched cards are places
on cylinder/pattern drum on cylinder

8. Production is more than 8. Less production 8. Less production

the dobby

Difference between Hook & Knife and Cam dobby

Hook & Knife Cam dobby
1. It gets motion from bottom shaft directly 1. It gets motion by crank shaft with the help
of gear chain & sprocket
2. Double jack lever presents 2. Single jack lever
3. Less speed 3. More speed & high production
4. Two hook controls one heald 4. Each hook controls one heald
5. Semi-open shed produced 5. Bottom closed shed
6. Jerky running during shedding 6. Smooth running and no jerkey movement

7. T-lever gets motion from bottom shaft by 7. T-lever gets motion by cam and bowl.
rod
8. It is not suitable for filament yarn 8. It is suitable for filament yarn.

3.3.2.1. Peg plan. Types and

Left Handed Dobby
Right Handed Dobby
System of Pegging
Twill weave which repeats on 11 ends and 11 picks Figure has been considered here for demonstrating the pegging plan. The system of
pegging is depicted in Figure . This design can be produced by using eight healds and straight draft. The selection for heald movement is
controlled by wooden pegs which can be inserted within the circular holes made on the wooden lags. The wooden lags inked together into
a lattice which is mounted on the pattern wheel (or barrel). The pattern barrel is rotated by a certain degree once in two peaks. For
example, if the barrel is hexagonal then it must rotate by 60° after every two picks. The presence of a peg within the hole results raised
position of the heald and vice versa. The position of two holes corresponding to the same heald is not on the same line. The lateral shifting
of holes is done so that two adjacent feelers can be accommodated.

Page 34 of 84
 S L S L S L S L S LS L S L S LS LS L S L

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Figure 1 Peg Plan for Left handed dobby

Page 35 of 84
 3.3.3. Basic principles of Jacquard shedding mechanisms.

Jacquard is a shedding device which is mounted on the loom. By this mechanism any warp
can be selected. Any figure or design may be produced by this. For producing beautiful and intricate
ornamental designs in forms and colors, in which a large no. of warp threads are required to be
controlled individually a jacquard shedding is employed.
Scope of Jacquard:
It can be used for a large design which cannot be possible on tappet or dobby.
No. heald shaft is used in this shedding & every warp is controlled individually.
∼
It is possible to lift 200 3000 yarns at any instant though 8 -12 yarns are drafted in straight line.
It is the finest of all machines for making the figured woven fabric that have ever been invented &
for superior in capacity to a dobby.
Produce all types of designs.
Most costly fabric produced.

Classify Jacquard with various points of view.

A. Broadly classification.
a. Ordinary Jacquard.
b. Special Jacquard.
e.g.: Cross –border jacquard.
B. According to the source of drive:
a. Hand Jacquard.
b. Power Jacquard.
i. Mechanical jacquard.
ii. Electrical Jacquard.
C. According to the type of shed:
a. Bottom closed shed.
b. Centre closed shed.
c. Semi –open shed.
d. Open –shed.
D. According to the pitch of the needles:
a. Fine pitch Jacquard.
b. Medium pitch jacquard.
c. Coarse pitch jacquard.
E. According to the figuring capacity:
100’ , 200’s, 300’s, ………………..etc.
s

F. According to the lifting:

a. Single lift single cylinder.
b. Double lift double cylinder.
G. According to the harness mounting:
a. Single tie –up.
b. Repeating tie –up.
c. Mixed tie –up.
Page 36 of 84
 d. Pointed tie –up.
H. According to the mixed /combined shedding:
a. Jacquard with tappet or cam.
b. Jacquard with dobby.
c. Jacquard with tappet & dobby.
I. According to position of mechanism:
a. London Jacquard.
b. Norwich Jacquard.

S.L.S.C. Jacquard: (Basic Principle of Jacquard):

Construction:
S.L.S.C. Jacquard is the original and the simplest type of jacquard. It works on bottom closed
shed type of shedding mechanism. Here one set of knife with griffe controlled the hooks. The hooks
are controlled by needles of one cranked eye and every needle selected one hook in that pick. One
neck cord with harness cord is controlled by this mechanism.

a
n b
c
e b
1. No. of Jacquard =
f

2. Total Ends =
3. Total no. of Harness Cord =
4. Total no. of dead weight =
h Here, 5. Total no. heald wire
a→ Hook. 6. Total no. of neck cord
i b→ Knife. 7. Total no. of hook =
c→ Needle. 8. Total no. of needle =
j d→ Needle board. 9. Total no. knife =
e→ Pattern cylinder 10. Total no. pattern card =
f→ Pattern chain. 11.
g→ Spring box.
k h→ Grid bar.
i→ Neck cord.
l j→ Tug board.
k→ Harness cord.
l→ Comber board.
m m→ Heald wire.
n→ Dead weight.

Fig: S.L.S.C. Jacquard m/c.

Mechanism:
Page 37 of 84
 During the cycle of operation one of the faces of the cylinder together with a card is brought
against the needle board. If a hole is punched in the card the corresponding needle will project
through in the cylinder. the hook controlled by that needle will remain is such a position that its
upper hooked end un punched will be caught by the raising knife. The un punched position of the
card will press back the needle & consequently the hook controlled by that will be away from the
path of the using knife. Thus the hook gets selection according to the design cut for a particular card.

Chapter 4. Picking :
Pick: A single weft thread in a woven fabric.
Picking:
Picking is the second primary motion in the weaving. It is the action of filling insertion the weft through the
warp shed from one edge of fabric to the other edge.
Picking may be carried out with or without shuttle. The mechanism of shuttle picking is negative,
complicated, elaborate, costly and unsatisfactory.
So, now a days, positive picking may be invented in shuttleless looms.

Function/Purpose of picking:
 To insert the weft of a predetermined velocity through the shed
 To reject/pass the shuttle at a predetermined velocity
To deliver the shuttle across the current flight path

4.1. Classification

Page 38 of 84
 Picking

Hand Power
picking picking

Through Convention
Modern
shuttle al

Under
Fly shuttle Over picking Air jet
picking

Tappet and Bowl and

Water jet
cone Shoe

Parallel
Side lever Rapier
shoe

Electromagn
Link pick Side shaft
etic

Multiphase

Torsion bar

Projectile

Gripper

4.2. Over and under picking mechanisms.

Tappet and cone over picking mechanism:

Tappet and cone over picking mechanism:

Construction:
i. The cone over pick mechanism consists of vertical picking shaft which is placed either inside or
outside the loom framing
ii. The picking shaft consists of a stud, which is passed through a slot in picking shaft
iii. The picking tappet placed in contact with picking cone
iv. The picking tappet is mounted on the bottom shaft
v. The picking lever/arm/stick is attached to a ring on the top of picking shaft
vi. From the forward end of the picking arm a lather picking strap passes down to a buffalo-hide picker,
which is freely mounted upon a spindle, placed over the centre of the shuttle box

Page 39 of 84
Working principle:
With the rotation of loom/bottom shaft, picking tappet or cam rotates
↓
In revolving, picking tappet nose strikes the cone shaped antifriction roller on the stud and partly rotates the
picking shaft and the picking lever/stitch
↓
The picking arm/lever moves from right side to left side of the loom. It will give angular movement which
causes the picker to move inward with sufficient velocity to drive the shuttle across the loom
↓
When the picker strikes the shuttle, the shuttle moves into the open shed through race board
↓
Picking is done
↓

The spring causes the picking arm and picker to move back after the delivery of a pick.
Page 40 of 84
Cone under pick mechanism: (slide shaft picking)
Construction:

i. Picking tappet is connected with the bottom shaft. There is a cone joined with the side shaft
ii.There are two bearings, which are joined with the side shaft
iii.
Side shaft joined with the picking stick with the help of picking strap
iv.Picking stick is pivoted at eh below. At the upper position of the picking stick picker is placed
above the spindle
v. Shuttle is placed at the centre of the picker

Working principle:
The tappet is driven by the bottom shaft
↓
When the picking tappet strikes the picking cone, it displaced and the side shaft is turned
↓
The turning action of side shaft pulls the picking stick which is connected to side shaft by picking strap
↓
The lower end of picking stick is pivoted. So that is pulled with the pulling of side shaft
↓
Then the picker connected to picking arm strikes the shuttle and causes it to pass through the warp shed
↓
Picking is done

Adjustment of over picking mechanism:

There are mainly two adjustment:
a. Picking force adjustment
b. Timing adjustment

a. Picking force adjustment/intensity of force in over pick motion

i. Cone shed: The strength of pick may be increase or decrease by setting the cone stud nearer to
or away from the picking tappet
By lowering the cone stud in relation to the position of picking tappet, the force is sent in a stright
direction and smooth pick is obtained

Page 41 of 84
 ii. Picking strap: By decreasing the length of picking strap, picking force can be increased and
vice-versa

iii. Picking stick/arm: By altering the position of the picking arm towards the center of the loom,
the strength of a pick (i.e. picking force) is increased

iv. Angular adjustment: For weaving heavy or light fabrics in the same loom picking nose of
different lengths of slightly different shapes are used-longer nose is used for heavy fabrics
The intensity of picking force depends on the length of the stroke and the suddenness of the
curve of the working face AB
The portion of a revolution occupied in making the stroke. This is indicated by the angle AB
in fig.
Quicker stroke – greater intensity
Lower angle – greater intensity

b. Timing adjustment: The shuttle should be in the centre of the stem when the loom cranks are
on the back centre.
Construction of a picking tappet:

A→ Boss
B→ Bottom shaft
C→ Key to fasten the boss
D→ Disc or shell
E→ Bolt holes for disc movement (backward or forward movement)
F→ Nose
G→ Bolt hole
Picking tappet consists of three parts:
Fig-1(Boss) → The boss(A) is fixed to the bottom shaft by means of a key(C) with provision made so that it
can be moved either to or fro from the fulcrum centre of upright picking shaft, in order to strengthen or
weaked the force of the pick. Boss is a protective curved. Friction takes place between the tappet & bottom
shaft due to boss. Boss protect the internal parts & prevents its wire

Fig-2(Disc) → The disc is attached to the boss. The disc runs along with the cone when not in action
In disc, long bolt holes(E) are made so that it can be moved backward or forward without interfering with the
boss, when the bolts are skackeened, as to time early or late picking

Fig-3(Nose) → The tappet nose(F) is a piece of the fastened to the disc by passing bolts through the holes(G).
It can be repeated when worn out
The nose should be so shaped that it is not licble to works loose while the loom is working. For loose parts
cause warp smashes, loom barging off etc.

4.3. Controlling factors of picking,

Power requirement for picking:
Let, m = mass of shuttle in Kg
Page 42 of 84
 v = velocity in m/sec
P = loom speed in picks/min
R = reed space in cm
L = length of shuttle in cm
 = degree of crank shaft rotation occupied by the passage of the shuttle through the warp shed

mv 2
Then, Energy/pick = 2 Joule
P
Loom speed in picks/sec = 60
mv 2 P 1
 
Power for picking = 2 60 1000 KW
 60 

Time for the passage of shuttle, t = 360 P = 6P sec
The distance moved by the shuttle, d = (R+L) cm

RL
d = 100 m
d
If v is the velocity of the shuttle during its passage through the shed, then v = t

RL 6P
 102
100 

v= 6 P = (R+L)× m/sec
1 P 1
mv 2  
Now, power for picking = 2 60 1000 KW
2
1  6P  P 1
m ( R  L )  102   
= 2    60 1000 KW
m P 1 ( R  L) 2  36 P 2
  
= 2 60 1000  2  (100) 2 KW

3mP 3
 ( R  L) 2 108
f= 
2
KW
1
m 2
Work done or Energy/Pick = 2
2
1  R  L 6P 
m 
= 2  100   Joule
m 36 P 2
 2  ( R  L) 2 104
= 2  Joule
2
18mP
( R  L) 2 104
= 
2
Joule

Problem:
1. Considered a cotton loom of 110 cm reed space running at 216 picks/min with a shuttle of
mass 450gm and length 28 cm. If the passage of shuttle fly occupies 135° then calculate
i. Work done per picks
Page 43 of 84
 ii. Power for picking
Solution:
Data given, m = 0.45kg
P = 216 picks/min
R = 110 cm
L = 28 cm
θ = 135°
18mP 2 ( R  L) 2 104
i) Work done/pick = 2 Joule
18  0.45  (216) 2  (110  28) 2 104
= (135) 2 Joule
= 39.51 Joule

P 1

ii) Power for picking = Work done/pick× 60 1000 KW
216 1

= 39.51× 60 1000 KW
= 0.142 KW

2. A loom makes 200 ppm and a shuttle weigthing to 10 oz is moved across in a space of 5 feet
3
in 8 of a pick. Find average speed of shuttle, energy developed & power.
Solution:
200  8  5
i) Speed of the shuttle = 60  3 = 44.4′/sec
10  (44.2)2 wv 2
ii) Energy developed = 16  2  32 = 2 g = 19.13′/lb/pick
19.13  200
iii) Power = 33000 = 0.116 of one h.p.
3. Find the speed of the shuttle when passing across sley race of 101.6 cm wide loom. The speed
of the loom being 240 ppm and θ be 120°
Solution:
R  L 6P

V = 100 
101.6 6  240

= 100 120
= 731.52 m/min
12.192 m/sec

4. Find out the picking force running at 200 rpm when bar R.S. 60″ fell of the cloth and max of
shuttle is 0.42 kg
R = 60″
m = 0.42 kg
P = 200 rpm
RS  PPM
1
60 
V= 3

Page 44 of 84
 60
 200  3
39.37
= 60
= 5.08 m/s
60
S = 39.37 = 1.5 m
mv 2 0.42  (5.08) 2
f = 2S = 2 1.5 = 3.612 N

5. Find picking force if max shuttle = 0.45 kg, velocity of shuttle = 450 cm/sec, distance
between boxes = 56″
Solution:
m = 0.45 kg, v = 450 cm/sec = 4.5 m/s
S = 56″ = 1.422 m
mv 2
f = 2S
0.45  4.52
= 2  1.422
= 3.218 N

4.4. picking faults.

Picking faults:
I) Early picking
II) Late picking
III) Smash/Banging-off
IV) Short picking
V) Harsh picking
VI) Shuttle flying picking

I) Early picking:
Incase of early picking, the shuttle enters into the shed a little earlier. This gives the shuttle more time to travel
across the sley race. This occurs before the completetion of shedding. An earlier pick gives loss of power
broken selvedges, as the shed is not sufficiently open for the entry of the shuttle.

II)Late picking:
Incase of late picking the shuttle enters the shed when the going part of the loom is nearer to back centre. This
occurs through the shedding is completed. Late picking will cause weft stitches, broken selvedges and loom
knocking off jerkey motion of the loom.

III) Weak picking:

When insufficient force is applied to the shuttle box to reach the opposite box, called ‘weak pick’. Weak pick
may be due to slack picking band, loose picking stick, worm nose piece, insufficient power.
Weak pick causes- loom knocking off, Broken selvedge thread and stitching at the side.

IV) Banging-off/Shuttle trapping in shed/Smashing:

Causes due to-
 Entangled warp ends

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  Late or weak pick
 Worn out picker
 Wrong timing of boxes
 Boxes moving too slow
 Boxes not steady when pick is delivered
 Swell spring broken
 Loose guide plates
 Shuttle rebounding/trapping after entering a box

V) Harsh picking:
When more force is applied to the shuttle than required to pass the shed, the pick becomes harsh.
Harsh picking may be due to-
 A new picking tappet nose
 Prominent curve of nose
 Strong pick
 Broken cone stud

It will cause-
 The shuttle to rebound
 Given broken cops
 Cracked shuttle
 Broken ends
 The picker may be damaged

VI) Short picking:

This defect arises due to-
 Unsuitable angle
 Setting of picking

VII) Shuttle flying out:

It causes due to
 Hollow race board
 Unclear shed obstracting the path of shuttle
 Pickers or shuttle are worn out
 Wrong setting of shuttle and picker
 Shed are too high or too low of the race board
 Flacturation in power supply
 If the slay stands higher at one side than the otherside
 Wrong alignment of sley race and back of the shuttle
 Loose nose place, cone stud or loose picking bowl
 Reed and shuttle box back are not properly in line and beveled
 Too light shuttle

Power required for picking:

Definition of over pick & under pick:
Over pick:
If the picking is done due to picking arrangement is situated upon the shuttle box, then it is called over pick.

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Loom runs in high speed in this mechanism. Fine, medium and coarse fabrics are produced by this
mechanism.
Under pick:
It the picking is done due to picking arrangement is situated under the shuttle box, then it is called under pick.
Loom runs in low speed in this mechanism. Filament and heavy fabric produced by this mechanism.

Difference between Over picking & Under picking:

Over picking Under picking
1. Picking arm position is above the shuttle box 1. Picking arm position is under the shuttle box

2. Higher loom speed 2. Lower loom speed

3. Used for narrow looms 3. Used in medium and wider loom

4. Used in weaving light and medium wt of fabric 4. Heavy wt fabric

5. Less power required 5. More power is required

6. Works more smoothly 6. Works less smoothly
7. Less clean mechanism 7. More clean mechanism
8. Less direct action 8. More direct action
9. Requires more frequent oiling. 9. Less frequent of oiling
10.Comparatively gentle in picking action 10.Comparatively harsh in picking action

11.It is robust, easy to adjust and maintain 11.Less robust, difficult to adjust and maintain

12.Less wear and tear 12.More wear and tear

13.Unsuitable for standardized setting because of 13.Suitable for
the flexible picking strap

Chapter 5. Beating :
Beating-up:
It is the third primary motion in weaving. It is a process of pushing the newly inserted weft yarn to
the already woven fabric at a point known as the “fell of the cloth” with the help of a reed fixed in
the sley. The sley is given a sudden and quick movement towards the fell of the cloth by the cranks
in the crank shaft.

Purposes of beating-up:
The main purposes of beating up are:-
1. To push the newly inserted weft yarn to the “fell of the cloth”.
2. To produce compact fabric.

5.1. Classification,
Classification of beating-up:
Beating-up may be classified in many ways. Some of those are mentioned below:
1. According to the no. of beat-up:
(a) Single beat-up
(b) Double beat-up
2. According to the movement of the cloth fell:
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 (a) Fixed fell
(b) Moving fell
3. According to the movement of reed:
(a) False or variable beat-up
(b) Real beat-up
4. According to beat-up mechanism:
(a) Conventional beat-up (Crank & crank arm)
(b) Modern beat-up (Cam beat-up)
5. According beat-up development:
(a) Traditional/ Normal beat-up
(b) Special beat-up

5.2. principles of crank and crank arm,

Single beat-up mechanism:

In single beat-up mechanism the newly inserted pick is pushed by reed. In producing most fabrics
which are not so compact, single beat-up is used.

Construction

The lower end of the sley sword is pivoted to the rocking shaft. The sley race is connected to
the sley sword.

A connecting rod or crank arm is connected to the back of sley race by a pin called sword pin
and its other end fastens round the bend in the crank shaft, which is known as cranks. Reed is joined
with sley race with the help of reed cover.

Working principle

For beating up process, the sley sword must reciprocate. They sley sword is connected to
rocking shaft for this purpose.

When the crank of the crank shaft rotates and comes in forward position, then it pushes the
crank arm forward. Thus crank arm gives to & fro movement.

As the crank arm is connected to the sley race and reed is situated above the reed race, reed
also moves forward as the crank arm move forwards. The reed pushes the weft in the fell of the
cloth. Thus single beat-up continuous.
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In this mechanism, one beat up is done for every picking.

5.3. double beat-up mechanisms:

Double beat-up mechanism

If after inserting a pick, two beat up occurs successively by one revolution of crank shaft it is called
double beat up.
To produce very compact fabric (e.g. - canvas/triple/tent), double beat-up is used.

Construction:
Constructed by a sley sword, a crank, a connecting arm, two arms, one of end of arm is hinged
with framing and the other end is attached to sley by connecting pin. Between the two arms there is a
knuckle joint which can be bent and cn be straight.
Working principle:
In one drawing the arms E & F are straight, but when the crank moves to the top centre it is
pushed up and E & F are bent.
When the crank moves downwards, the knuckle joint is also moved downwards and there
comes a stage when the arm becomes straight & a beat-up is done by the system.
When the crank again moves up, the knuckle joint is also moves up and again the arms become
straight and cause the beat-up.
Hence the two beat-up is done for a pick.
Cam beat-up mechanism or how the weft yarn is release from the projectile
guide during beat-up:

Page 49 of 84
 fig: Cam beat up mechanism.

Mechanism:
When projectile runs through the guide unison with weft, yarn lay in to the guide. The
two antifriction rollers follow the two cams, it means antifriction roller-1 follow the outer profile of
cam-1 and antifriction roller-2 so on. The nose of the cam-2 pressed the antifriction roller-2 at left
side direction. At a instant the antifriction roller-2 moves downward by the curvature portion of cam.
So the sley moves right side and as a result the weft yarn releases from the guide by the slot of the
guide and at a time reed beat-up the newly inserted weft to the fell of the cloth.
It should be noted that two cams are used to limit the movement of the sley. Here
smooth beat-up is obtained by the rotary motion of cam and there is no eccentric motion.

5.4. Sley eccentricity ratio and its effects.

Sley Eccentricity ratio:
The ratio of radius of crank circle and the length of crank arm is called Sley Eccentricity ratio.
ie: Sley eccentricity ratio, e= r/L
Where, r= Radius of crank circle
L= Length of crank arm.

Advantages of higher sley eccentricity ratio:

1. As SER increases the sley remains longer nearer to its most backward position and more time
for the passage of the shuttle.
2. As SER increases the velocity of the sley around beat up also increases. Ie, it tends to
increase the effectiveness of the shuttle.

Disadvantages of higher SER:

1. Causes rapid acceleration and deceleration of the sley around beat up.
2. More robust loom is required.

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Chapter 6. Take-up & Let-off Mechanisms :
Take up motion:
The process of withdrawing fabric from weaving zone at a constant rate and then winding the woven cloth on
the cloth roller with the continuous progress of weaving, is called take up.

Objects/Functions of take up motion:

 To wind the woven fabric on the cloth roller with continuous progress of weaving
 To maintain uniform picks per inch i.e. uniform texture along the length of fabric
To ensure uniform pick spacing through out the fabric
6.1. Classification,
Classification:
1. According to drive:
I) Positive take up
II) Negative take up
2. According to motion of the cloth/Rate of take up-
I) Continuous
II) Intermittent
3. According to drive given to the cloth roller
I) Direct drive
II) Indirect drive
4. According to number of gear train-
I) 5-wheel
II) 6-wheel
III) 7-wheel
5. According to brand name-
I) Sulzer
II) Pickanol
III) Toyota
7-wheel Take up mechanism:

Construction and working principle:

A = Rachet wheel = 24T
B = Standard wheel = 36T
C = Change wheel = XT
D = Swing pinion = 24T
E = Compound wheel = 89T
F = Compound pinion = 15T
G = Take up wheel = 90T
H = Take up roller = 15.05″ (circum)
K = Retaining catch

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L = Pawl
M = Finger
N = Take up lever
 Take up lever N is centered at ‘I’ and has a pawl L pivoted upon it
 A finger M is bolted and adjustable to a sley sword and passed through a slot in N
 A swing motion is given to N and this will cause the pawl L to drive the Rachet wheel A and wet the
train of wheels in motion. The amount of movement in L depends upon the position of M in the slot of
N
 The cloth is wound onto the cloth roller, as the sley falls back or as the sley moves forward.

Calculation:
1. PPI calculation:
For one revolution of one teeth of Rachel wheel (A)
= 1 pick take up
G E C
1
Then, No. of revolution of A = F  D B
90 89 x
1  
= 15 24 36
90 89 x
1   4
No. of picks for 1 rev. of H = 15 24 36
90 89 x 24
1   
Picks per inch = 15 24 36 15.05
90 89 60 24
1   
= 15 24 36 15.05 [C=60]
= 59.13

2. Pick spacing:
Pick spacing is the reciprocal of the pick density
1
i.e. pick spacing = PPI
B D F H
1   
Pick spacing = C E G A
36  24  15  15.05
= 60  89  15  24
= 0.0169 inch
Or pick spacing = x = 0.0169 inch

3. Loom Constant:
To find out loom constant, the no of teeth in a change wheel is always = 1 i.e x = 1
G E C  A 90  89  x  24
1 1
PPI = F  D  B  15.05 = 15  24  36  15.05
90  89  1 24
1
Loom constant = 15  24  36  15.05 = 0.9836
Hence, PPI = Loom constant  change wheel
= o.9856  60 = 59.136
In the loom the fabric remains under tension. When it is out of loom, it becomes relaxed. So in relaxed state
lengthwise contraction of fabric increases the PPI of fabric and normally contraction is of 1.5%
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 G E C A  100  1.5 
1     
Hence, PPI = F D B 15.05  100 
90 89 60 24
1     1.015
= 15 24 36 15.05
= 60.02

5-wheel Take up mechanism:

A = Rachet wheel = 50-60T

1
B = Change wheel = 4
C = Stud wheel = 100-120T
D = Stud pinion = 12-18T
E = Take up wheel = 60-100T
F = Take up roller = 15-16″ (circum)
G = Finger
H = Take up lever
M = Pushing pawl
N = Rotating catch
 The beam wheel E is set screwed on the beam shaft and its teeth engaged those of stud pinion D
which is connected with stud wheel C
 The stud pinion and stud wheel work loosely upon a stud in a slotted bracket, the slot is concentric
with the cloth beam F
 In this positive take up motion is primarily imparted from the sley sword. The finger enters into the
slot of the take up lever H, which is fulcrumed at I
 A swinging motion is given to the sley sword and this will cause the paw M to drive the rachet wheel
A and set the train of wheels in motion
 Rachet wheel is moved the distance of one tooth by the oscillating pawl for every pick
Thus motion is transferred to the cloth roller from the rachet wheel by means of five wheels.

Calculation:
1. PPI:
For one rev of one teeth of Rachet wheel (A)
= 1 pick take up
E C A
1  
No of revolution of A for 1 rev of F = D B F

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 75 120 50
1  
= 15 x 15
2000
= x
2. Pick spacing:
1 x
Pick spacing = PPI = 2000
B D F x 15 15
   
Or Pick spacing = C E A = 120 75 50
x
= 2000
3. Loom constant:
Loom constant is obtained by taking the no of teeth in change wheel = 1
E C  A
Loom constant = D  1 F
Loom constant
Hence, PPI = Change wheel
Contraction 1.5% is not added due to using coarse fabric, Jute, Blanket, Canvas fabric.
So, not adding of 1.5% contraction

Difference between 7-wheel and 5-wheel take-up:

7-wheel 5-wheel
1. In gear train 7-wheels are used 1. In gear train 5 wheel is used
2. Used for medium and fine fabrics 2. Used for coarse fabrics

1 3. Precise control of fraction of pick is not possible

3. Fraction of a pick ( 4 th of a pick) can be
controlled
4. Contraction factor is required 4. Not required
5. Emery roller used 5. No emery/pin roller used
6. Rachet wheel is multiple of 3 6. Rachet wheel is not multiple of 3
7. PPI = Loom constant  Change wheel Loom constant/Divident
PPI 
7. Change wheel
8. Smooth in action 8. Produce jerky motion
9. Loom constant 1 9. Loom constant 2030-2538

6.2. pick spacing and its controlling factors,

Shown in the mechanism
6.3. Calculations of take-up constant,
Shown in the mechanism
6.4. Let-off.
Let off motion:
The process of unwinding and delivery the required amount of warp sheet from the warp beam to the weaving
zone at the required rate and maintain uniform tension on warp yarn and fabric produced during weaving is let
off motion.

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Synchronization between take up and let off is a must.
The required amount of warp to be unwound is equal to the sum of the length of fabric to be woven (take up)
and crimp% and subtraction of extension% of warp.
i.e. let off of warp sheet = take up + crimp% - warp tension%

Function/objects of let off motion:

 To maintain the necessary tension upon the warp
 To unwind and deliver the required amount of warp sheet from the warp beam with the simultaneous
and continuously (with the progress) weaving
 To influence the no of picks per unit space in a fabric being subsidiary to take up motion
 The warp should be supplied in lengths that exactly correspond with those drawn away by the taking
up roller.
 To provide the warp and filling space during weaving.

Types of let off motion:

1. Position let off motion
2. Semi-positive let off motion
3. Negative let off motion

Conditions of good let off motion:

A good let off motion must possess certain features such as-
I) Equal and uniform tension upon the warp all through
II) Provision to regulate decreasing diameter of warp on the beam during weaving
III) Arrangement for taking the warp back
IV) It should also be sensitive to any little variation in the diameter of the weft yarn and tension upon the
warp

Requirements of let off motion:

I) Arrangement for making equal and uniform tension upon the warp
II) It should have arrangement of changing the length on the warp sheet in weaving zone so that yarn
length can be increased and decreased as required
III) Warp tension can be adjust by changing warp sheet length
IV) The ratio of warp and weft tension should be correct. Other wise crimp level on fabric is not proper
balanced

Negative let off motion:

 In the negative let off motion, the warp is controlled by means of ropes, chains, levers and weights
 Warp beam rotates to the unwinding direction of warp yarn
 A warp let off motion should so act upto the threads that an equal strain is maintained
 The let off motions do not deliver exactly the same quantity of warp for each pick as the cloth is taken
on to the cloth roller, but is sensitive to variable tension upon the warp during shedding and beating.

Construction: Chain lever and wt-let off motion

Page 55 of 84
Page 56 of 84
A = Beam barrel/Beam ruffle
B = Warp beam
C = Beam flange
D = Chain/Rope/Belt
E = Pivot
F = Back rest
G = Fell of the cloth
H = Front rest
I = Take up roller
J = Cloth roller
K = Cloth
L = Warp yarn
M = Weight lever
N = Loom frame
W = Weight

Page 57 of 84
 Fig: Negative let-off motion
In chain, lever and weight negative let off motion, rope, chain card or leather band is wrapped around the
beam ruffle(A) to sustain it and one end of the chain is fixed at wt. W or loom frame and the other end is
connected to the weight lever
 This weight lever is pivoted at E and this wt lever contains weight W on its opposite end. This weight
W can be moved to the pivot
 The tension on warp is regulated by the friction between chain and beam ruffle. The friction is
controlled by dead wt on the wt lever and the distance of dead wt from the pivot

Working principle:
 When warp beam is in fully completed, wt of wt lever is place at one end. But as dia of beam
decreases, the let off gear speed increases to keep proper tension
 As weaving goes on, the wt of the wt lever should be shifted gradually towards the pivot of the lever.
This chaining is done 15 times to weave down a full warp beam.
 Special attention for maintaining uniform tension upon the warp
Either amount of weight reduced by position fixed
Or amount of weight fixed or constant but weight moves towards the pivot
 The amount of weight used to keep proper tension on warp depends on yarn count and required picks
per unit length of fabric.

Advantages:
 Cheap and simple in construction
 Suitable for light and medium weight of fabrics
 Easy to maintain

Disadvantages:
 Difficulty in taking back the warp beam after picking gout
 Difficulty in regulating equal tension on the warp
 The varying tension on warp thread shows dark and light or shady places in the cloth
 Possibility of thread breakage due to tension variation. As a result, bad quality fabric produced.

Semi-positive let off motion:

 The delivery of warp is controlled in such way that an adjustment can be made to maintain tension or
path length by slippage
 Some jobs are done manually and come mechanically

58
Construction:
 In the semi positive let off motion, a pushing pawl present in a Rachel wheel
 Rachel is connected by a shaft in warm C with warm wheel B and warm wheel rotates in clockwise
direction

A → Warp beam
B → Warm wheel
C → Worm
D → Shaft
E → Rachet wheel
F → Pawl
G → Weight lever
H → Fulcrum
K → Floating roller


59
  Weight lever is fulcrumed at H and floating back rest K is present downwards and other end of wt.
lever is to the pushing pawl.

Working principle:
 The warp beam is driven through a worm and worm wheel which are turned by a pawl and rachet
When warp tension more-
 The floating back rest is lowered and this causes downward movement of weight lever at the back
side and upward movement of connecting rod
 The out end of pawl move upwards and other end comes to the contact of rachet teeth and makes
rotation of rachet wheel and worm and warm wheel
 As worm and worm wheel are on the same shaft. So the warp beam rotates highly and causes let off
motion and uniform tension
When warp tension is less-
 The floating back rest moves upward and this causes downward movement of the out end of the wt
lever and the other end of pawl be disengages with rachet teeth and no let off motion

Positive let off motion/Bart let positive let off motion:

Basic requirement:
 A mean of applying tension to the warp sheet and for keeping tension constant as the warp weaves
down
 A mean of detecting small changes in the length of warp sheet between the fell and the front rest and
back rest
 A method of utilizing these changes to vary the rate at which the beam is turned

Fig: Tensioning mechanism

Fig: Positive let-off motion

60
A = Warp beam
B = Floating back rest
C1 & C2 = Fixed collar
C = Collar
E = Feeler
F = Lever
G = Pivot
H = Rod
J = Elbow lever
K = Pivot
L = Driving rod
M = Oscillating collar
N = Sley sword
O = Rachet
P = Pawl
Q = Worm
R = Hand wheel
U = Beam driving pinion
V = Worm wheel
S = Beam wheel
Y = Warp beam

 A pushing pawl (P) rotates the Rachel (O) and single worm
 Warm wheel (V) rotates in the surface contact of single warm (Q) again. As warm wheel and beam
driving wheel (U) are on same shaft. Beam driving wheel also rotates
 Beam wheel (S) rotates in the surface contact of beam driving wheel and as warp beam (T) and beam
wheel are on same shaft, warp beam also rotates
 Floating back rest (B) is pivoted to rod(X) and spring by collar(C). This rod can rotates through elbow
level (J) and connected to driving rod (L)
 Two fixed collar (C1) & (C2) is connected to rod then oscillating collar (M) and then connect to sley
sword(N) by rod(L2) which are pivoted (G)

Working principle:
 When the tension in warp sheet is increased
 The floating rest will move downwards and the rod carrying the fixed collar (C3) will move to the
right and the rod (L1) will move to displace the driving rod (LB) to the left. This will bring the fixed
collar(C) to the oscillating collar(M)
 As a result, the force on the oscillating collar(M) and the fixed collar(C) is more. So more rachet
wheel teeth will be driven by the pawl.
 Thus the beam will rotate more to release more warp to minimize the increased tension
 Pushing pawl gives to and fro movement
 When tension on warp sheet is reduced-

 The floating rest moves up and consequently the gap between the oscillating collar(M) and he fixed
collar(C) is increased reducing the force of impact between them
 So less number of rachet wheel teeth is moved and hence beam will release less amount of warp
Maintaining mechanism:
 When beam dia diminishes the beam movement is more

61
  As the beam weaves down the feeler(E) moves towards the warp beam(A) so lever(F) turns
anticlockwise on its pivot(G). This moves the rod H upwards through a series of links and turns the
lever(F1) anticlockwise
 The lower end of (F1) is slotted over the rod that carries the spring which is compressed between the
fixed collar and slutted lever(F1)
 The effect is to lengthen the spring as the beam weaves down. This results the movement of rod
carrying the fixed collar(C) more to right
 As a result the rachet wheel rotates more
 So as the beam weaves down, the let-off rate increases

Shirley let off mechanism:

Construction:
The warp is supplied from the warp beam and is passed over the floating back rest. The floating back rest is
connected with an angular lever arm and other end if the lever is fulcrumed. The beam barrel is joined with a
breaching spring or frame. On the weight lever, the sliding wt is placed which can slide right and left as and
when required.
Working principle of Shirley let off:
Constant take up rate equal to the constant let off rate
When warp tension increases-
 Constant rate take up increases
 Floating roller deflect to the left side

 Arm deflect to the left side

 Weight lever move to the upwards
 Sliding dead weight deflect to the left side and sliding weight average reduce
 As a result let off motion increases, due to decreases of breaking force and easily rotation of warp
beam

When warp tension decreases-

 Floating rollers deflect to the right side
 Arm deflect to the right side
 Weight lever lowered and sliding dead weight deflect to the tip
 Sliding dead weight leverage increase
 Breaking force increases
62
  Let off rate reduce e
The more weaving complete, beam dia reduces, for constant let off rate maintenance, RPH should be
increased

Pick spacing:
The centre to centre distance between two adjacent picks called pick spacing.
i.e. The amount of area is covered in the fabric by a pick is called pick spacing
1
Pick spacing = PPI
Unit = cm or inch
If weft yarn is coarser pick spacing is more
and if weft yarn is finer, pick spacing is less

Causes of variation in pick spacing:

 Due to eccentric of take up
 Due to variation in yarn quality
 Due to not falling of pick in proper place of fell of the cloth
 Due to change of take up rate, change of position of feel of cloth
 Due to change of let off rate, change warp tension
 Loom stops prolonged period

Difference between negative & positive let off motion:

Negative let off Positive let off
1. Simple in construction 1. Complex
2. Suitable for light and medium wt of 2. Heavy wt of fabric
fabric
3. Warp beam maintain belt or chain 3. Gearing
4. More strain on warp yarn 4. Comparatively less
5. Used in semi-automatic loom 5. Automatic machine
6. Flanged beam 6. Not flanged beam and hard
7. Warp beam is small 7. Large
8. More manual power required 8. Less manual power required

Chapter 7. Automatic Conventional Weaving:

7.1. Features of automatic looms,
Automatic weft replenishment (Change):
a) Automatic pirn change.
a. Circular magazine.
b. V-magazine.
c. Box –loader.
d. Loom winder.
b) Automatic shuttle change.
a. Permanent (Replacement of both pirn & shuttle in case of weft
replenishment).
b. Temporary.
1. Weft mixing /patterning.

63
 2. Draw box (4 1 or 6  1).
3. Circular box (6  1).
4. Pick –at –will (4  4 / 6  6).
Automatic weft stop motion.
 Automatic warp stop motion.
 Automatic take up & let off motion (positive).
 Automatic warp protection or warp protection motion because of if the shuttle is obsolete to
shed then there is necessary of protection mechanism of warp.
 Greater precision of loom parts.
 Higher efficiency (ordinary about 70% but in modern it is more than 80%).
 Better quality of fabric.
 Higher cost of fabric.
 Lower cost of production.
 Lower man power required.
 Weft insertion is discontinuous.

7.2. weft replenishments,

The main work of the weaver on non –automatic looms involved.
a. General supervision and inspection of the yarn, cloth and machine.
b. Repairing warp and weft breaks.
c. Stopping the loom to replace the weft package when the yarn on the pirn was almost used up.
In non –automatic loom the down time is high as well as the production is decreases because
……….ing the loom, removing the shuttle, replacing the shuttle in the loom, restarting the loom and
placing a full pirn in the spare shuttle. In addition to this major drawback, if the loom was stopped
too soon, it would have to be restarted and then stopped again within a few picks, or alternatively the
pirn would have to be removed with an excess of yarn that could only become waste. On the other
hand, if the weft would be completely used up and the weft fork operates so that, on restarting, pick
–finding would be necessary.
On this circumstances there is an obvious need to replace the weft package automatically and
for this purpose weft replenishment mechanism is involved in loom for the increasing of loom
efficiency and production.
Methods /types of weft replenishment:
There are two types of weft replenishment:

1. Automatic pirn change.

a. Circular magazine.
b. V-magazine.
c. Box –loader.
d. Loom winder

Pirn
2. Automatic shuttle change.
a. Temporary.
i. Weft mixing /patterning.
64
 ii. Draw box (4 1 or 6  1).
iii. Circular box (6  1).
iv. Pick –at –will (4  4 / 6  6).
Permanent (Replacement of both pirn & shuttle in case of weft replenishment).

7.3. methods of warp and weft patterning

Warp Patterning is done by Sectional Warping.

Weft Patterning
Cross over design is refers as weft patterning. Weft patterning means how weft way design may be
produced.
The introduction of yarn of different colour, linear density, or character into the warp of a
fabric is relatively easy to achieve by pre-planning the position of the bobbins in the creel at the
warping stage. Large differences in yarn linear density or crimp will generally require that the warp
yarn should be supplied from more than one beam. If more than three beams are required
simultaneously on one loom, problems arise with regard to accommodation and accessibility and it
may even be necessary in some cases to supply the yarn from individual packages in a creel.
But there is no such loom that contains more than one weaves beam. To produce cross-over design
and weft way design. Then it is economical to use. Weft –patterning motion

Methods or Mechanism of weft Patterning:

There are four types of weft patterning.
1. Weft mixing.
2. Drop box.
3. Circular box.
4. Pick –at –will.

7.4. warp protector motion

To protect the warp yarn/ reed/ shuttle in case of trapping the shuttle in the shed is the function of
warp protector motion. There are three possibilities in case of shuttle trap.
The reed may be damaged.
The shuttle may be damaged.
The warp may be damaged specially the top warp line.
So, the purpose of warp protector motion is to save the reed or warp yarn or shuttle from being
damage during beating-up action.
Fast Reed Warp Protector Motion:
The swell, acting as a break, is displaced by the shuttle in bringing it to rest. The swell will
normally attain its maximum displacement, but if the shuttle fails to reach its correct rest position or
if it rebounds owing to in sufficient checking or top much picking force, then the swell will not
receive its maximum displacement, show that the finger will not push back as far as it should be (fig
b). this will not let the stop-rod rotate sufficiently to allow the dagger to clear the frog steel. The frog
shed is directly connected to the starting handle so that the loom brake is immediately applied to
disengage the clutch.

65
 If the shuttle is correctly boxed at the end of its flight, then the swell and thus the finger will
be pushed back, the rod will rotate and the dagger will be raised clear of the steel so that the loom
will continue running.

۞ Loose-Reed warp protector motion:

In this mechanism the reed was supported at beat up by the dagger passing under a heated
fixed to the loom frame.
 In the back position, a light spring was sufficient to support the reed which while the shuttle
passed from one side of the loom to the other.
 If a shuttle become, trapped, however the bottom bulk of the reed was forced out of its
support and beat up was no longer possible.
 The time of arrived of the shuttle in the opposite box was no longer dependent on the
checking mechanism and up to another 20˚ become available.
 Thus made higher loom speeds possible or alternatively allowed. Lower shuttle speeds to be
used for the same loom speed.
 If the reed receives the slightest pressure. From a trappe shuttle, then the dragger will be a
raised to strake the heater which is part of the starting handle unit and the loom will be knocked off
instantly.
 The reed is again supported during shuttle flight by a spring on the finger that supports the
back arm of the dagger and at the front position the dagger posses under the heater (fig: b). So that
the reed is supported to withstand the full force of the beat up.

66
The extra time of shuttle flight is there by gained and it is possible to have a softer or gentler pick
which will reduce wear or higher loom speeds

7.5. causes of warp and weft breakage in weaving,

The purpose of warp stop motion is to stop the loom when a warp end breaks so that an
unrepairable fault is avoided.
Warp stop motions may be mechanically or electrically operated, then it is necessary to
support a thin strip of metel known as a drop wire, dropper or pin on each end. So that when the
thread breaks the drop wire will fall and operate the mechanism.
The sizes of a drop wire can very quite considerably depending on the type of loom.

7.5.1. warp stop motions,

warp stop motions.
Draw and describe the function of Electrical warp stop motion

67
  If a normal rounded-shaped wire to fall on to the top of the copper strip, it might be supported
without making immediate contact with the iron.
 When this contact is made, the electrical ciruit is completed and the core of the solenoid will
be magnetized and the core of the solenoid will be magnetized so that the bar will be attracted
upwards into the patch of the knock off-lever.
 This lever is activated by a cam on the bottom shaft, which may be single or double-acting.
 When the knock off lever pushes the bar, the starting handle will be pushed off and the loom
stooped.

Describe the function of mechanical warp stop motion.

 The bar unit of the stop motion passes through the large cut out at the top of the drop wire.
The bar in three parts, the top of each being castellated. The two outside ones are fixed and inside
one is made to reciprocate.
 The amount of reciprocation should be equal to one complete castellation and in order to
ensure that a wire will fall into the lowest cut out point of both bars.
 It is necessary for the centre moving bar to be slightly higher than the two outside ones.
 When the wire falls into the lowest position, if limits the movement of the centre bar and thus
the parts of the mechanism that have been causing the reciprocation which originate from an
eccentric on the bottom shaft.
 If the yarn breaks then dropwire of that warp yarn is trapped with castle bar.
 Results stop the movement of moving bar & the same time stop the movement of upper side
of the locking bar.
 Knock off plate is attached with sley, when sley generally comes beat up then sley does not
beat of knock off plate because of if is situated under the sley.
 When yarn breaks the knock off lever comes forward towards the knock off plate & push the
knock off lever during beat up. As knock- off lever is attached with starting handle, as a result m/c is
stopped.

68
 7.5.2. side and centre weft fork mechanism.

Weft stop motions.

Centre weft fork motion: Draw and narrate the method of functioning of centre weft fork
motion (2001):
Centre-weft fork mechanism are much more delicate to set and access is difficult, so that where as
they are essential for certain types of loom, they are not universally desirable. They are used when
the short comings of the side-weft-fork mechanism are unacceptable.
Fixed collar
Movable collar Sliding notch
Fixed handle Fork
Lifting lever
Push lever
Starting handle
Spring
Slide cam
Tumbler cloth
Knock off lever Tumbler
Driving rod

Fulcrum

Bowl

Double acting cam

Bottom shaft

Fig: Centre weft fork motion

Mechanism:
 This mechanism is placed at the middle of the side sley race. Fork is at the groove of sley.
 Fork is in the up position when shuttle moves from one box to another box.
 At the time of picking the following conditions are appeared.
1. Sley is at the back centre.
2. Slide cam moves to the left.
3. Shuttle moves from one box to another.
4. Fork is in it’s up position.
 At the time of beating the positions are :
1. Sley is at the forward position.
2. Slide cam moves to the right.
3. Fork is in to down position.
 Sliding cam gives left and right movement by a double acting cam which is at the bottom
shaft through a driving rod.
69
  Tumble is fixed but slide cam moves left to right.
 As the cam moves to the left, the fork rides up the cam surface and causes the prongs to lift.
 After the shuttle has passed as the sley starts to move forward, the cam moves to the right and
if there is no yarn supporting the prongs, then tumbler catch engaged with the slide notch and lift the
lifting lever in up ward.
 Lifting lever engage the push lever with the knock-off lever.
 As the sley comes forward to beat-up the knock-off lever will strike a projection from the
starting handle and stop the loom.
When the fork is supported by weft tumble catch is carried over the slide notch and the rod makes a
complete movement to the right, So that there is no protrusion to knock-off the starting handle.

Side-weft fork motion:

 It is necessary to have a grid set into the back of the sley adjacent to the end opposite the
forks so that the prongs can be operated below race board level and it is impossible for the weft
thread to pass underneath them.
It is situated at the starting-handle side of the loom which is in the left-hand side on modern
automatic looms.

 A cam on the bottom shaft raises a greyhound-tail lever every two picks and it is timed. So
that it causes the weft-fork hammer to rock towards the front of the loom just after the fork reaches
the grid.
 If the fork is undisturbed it will be pulled by the weft fork hammer, which will thus cause the
whole of the weft fork to slide towards the front of the loom.
 The knock-off lever will be pushed and will displaced the starting handle for the loom to be
stopped.

۞ Difference between centre weft fork & Side weft fork motion:
Centre weft fork Side weft fork
1. Check the presence of weft in each pick. 1. Check the presence of weft in every two
picks.
2. Situated at the middle of the reed. 2. Situated at the side of the reed.
70
 3. It is used for producing fine high quality 3. It is used for producing medium and
fabric. heavy fabric.
4. It is used in conventional loom. 4. It is used in modern automatic loom.

Chapter 8. Jacquard weaving:

8.1. Different Jacquard looms.

8.2. Systems of harness mounting,

State the different types of harness ties with scope:

There are two main types of harness ties.
1. Norwich system.
2. London system.
1. Norwich system:
When jacquard mechanism is mounted with the parallel of the loom is called Norwich
Jacquard. In this jacquard the long rows of needles are parallel to the comber board & at the right
angle to the warp. The cords will be at the front or at the back or at both front & back of the loom.
2. London system:
When the jacquard mechanism is mounted at one end of the loom and at 90˚ angle of the
loom is known as London Jacquard. In this system the jacquard is turned through a right angle the
cords stay at the side of the loom.
The both tie systems are divided into the following four types.
a. Single tie-up.
b. Repeating tie-up.
c. Pointed tie-up.
d. Mixed tie-up.
a. Single tie-up:
In this system only one harness cord is attached to one neck cord. There are must be as many
hooks as there are threads in the width of the fabric. If the design is required to be woven 400 ends.
There are 400 hooks in the jacquard.
Scope: This tie is used to produce a fabric containing only one repeat across the width of the fabric.
b. Repeating tie-up:
This is the most common design tie used for both Norwich and London harness ties. In this
tie there must be as many harness cards tied to each neck cord as there are 4 repeats in the full width
of the fabric. If there are 4 repeats in the full width of the fabric. If there are 4 repeats of the pattern
then there will be 4 harness cords tied with each neck cord.
Scope: This type tie is used to produce a fabric. Having more than one repeat across the width
of the fabric.
c. Pointed tie-up:
This tie up is widely used where pointed draft is used and for symmetrical design if turned
over its centre line. Suppose a design has 800 ends. Then it is divided in to two groups i.e. 400 ends

71
in each group. So there are required 400 ends in each group. So there are required 400 Neck cords. In
this system two harnesses is attached with one neck cord.
Scope: This tie up is used to produce symmetrical design which turned over its centre line.
d. Mixed tie-up:
In this tie up a large number of harness cord is used. A great skill is required of designer
because the design required a greater capacity of the jacquired that has been actually used.
Scope: This tie is used if a large repeat pattern is to be produced with the existing capacity of the
jacquard.

8.3. methods of increasing the figuring capacity.

The size and the figuring capacity of a jacquard is standardized to a certain extent. We can
increase the figuring capacity of the jacquard in the following ways.
A→ By changing the design.
B→ By using sectional jacquard. Suppose if the design required to be woven on 3600 ends then three
jacquards each having capacity of 1200 hooks should be built side by side.

Chapter 9. Modern weaving

9.1. Features of modern looms

9.2. brief study of Shuttle less Loom

9.2.1. Projectile Loom
Objectives:
1. To know about the weft insertion system of projectile loom.
2. To know about the different parts & their functions.
3. Make a clear concept about the mechanism.
Main parts:
1. projectile 8. picking stick
2. projectile feeder 9. Tucking needle
3. Tensioner 10. Scissor
4. weft brake 11. Selvedge gripper
5. accumulator 12. Receiving unit
6. pakage
7. guide
Description:
Fig. – 1:
Projectile moves into the picking position.

72
 Figure - 1
Fig. – 2:
Projectile feeder (2) opens after the projectile has gripped the end of the weft presented to it.

Figure - 2
Fig. – 3:
Projectile has drawn the weft through the shed during which time the weft tensioner (3) and
the adjustable weft brake (4) act to minimize the strain on the thread at the moment of picking.

Figure - 3
Fig. – 4:
Projectile (1) is stopped and pushed back inside the receiving unit housing, while the weft
tensioner (3) holds the thread lightly stretched. At the same time, feeder (2) moves close to the edge
of the cloth.

73
 Figure - 4
Fig. – 5:
Feeder (2) grips the thread, whole the selvedge grippers hold the weft at both sides of the
cloth.

Figure - 5
Fig. – 6:
Weft is severed by the scissor on the picking side and released by projectile (1) on the
receiving side. The ejected projectile (1) is then placed on the conveyor which carries it outside of
the shed back to the picking position.

74
 Figure - 6
Fig. – 7:
The thread has now been beaten up by the reed. The needles tuck the thread ends into the
next shed (tucked in selvedge).

Figure - 7

The length of thread slackened by the return of projectile feeder is taken up by the weft tensioner.
The next projectile is brought to the picking position.

9.2.2. Rapier Loom

Rapier weaving
Types of Rapier loom:
Mainly two types:
1.
2. Rigid rapier. (a) Single rapier.
(a) Single rapier. (b) Double rapier.
(b) Double rapier. (i) Dewas system
(i) Dewas (ii) Gabler
system system.
(ii) Gabler
system.
3. Flexible rapier.

75
 Schematic diagram of weft insertion system in different rapier loom:
Supply package

Clamp

Weft Rapier
Selvedge

(a) Single rapier loom.

(b) Double rapier loom. (Dewas system)

cutter

(b) Double rapier loom. (Gabler system)

9.2.3. Air jet Loom

Weft insertion mechanism of Air jet machine:

76
Weft insertion in air jet machine is completed by air flow. Firstly yarn is reserved in accumulator.
About two and a half picks yarn are wound in accumulator. Then the yarn (weft) is passing through
the balloon breaker. Balloon breaker breaks the balloon during insertion. Programmable filling
tensioner will supply weft yarn at a regular tension or programmed tension. Then the movable nozzle
insert the weft yarn through the warp shed. It may be noted that accumulator give 4 times rotation
during insertion of one pick. Movable nozzle will not able to insert the full width, because insertion
pressure will be gradually low when it reached at the opposite side of the loom. So for uniform
filling there are introduced relay nozzle which help uniform picking Air will passes through the relay
nozzle at a regular frequency. When 1st relay nozzle open, the second is closed, and when 2nd is open
then 3rd is closed and so on. If the weft does not reached at FD i.e. filling detector-1 then the machine
is stopped. When the pick will inserted then it cut by a cutter at the feed side and unison beat-up is
done.
1 15
12 12 13
3 6 7 10

4 8
4 5 9 14
5

1. Yarn Package 1. Movable main nozzle.

2. Tensioner 2. Filling cutter
3. Accumulator. 3. Shed
4. Balloon breaker. 4. Relay nozzle.
5. Finger. 5. filling detector.
6. PFT (Programmable filling 6. Waste cutter.
tensioner)
7. FD -2
7. PFT motor.
8. Fixed main nozzle.

Chapter 10. Loom efficiency with controlling factors,

It is the percentage equation expression the ratio between actual production and calculated
production.
Actual Production
100%
 Efficiency= Calculated production
Types of efficiency:

77
 1. Running efficiency: It is related to time. The efficiency at a certain time is known as running
efficiency. Actual production of the m/c is always low due to interruption, minor causes of
interruption are included during calculation of running efficiency.
2. Attained efficiency: The actual which is obtained from the m/c is called attained efficiency.
3. Overall efficiency: M/c stopped for various reasons in the industry included major causes &
minor causes for which production is called overall efficiency. It is calculated for the year
round.
4. Individual running efficiency.
5. Group efficiency.
6. Mill efficiency.
۞ Causes of production interruption:
 Load shedding.
 Maintenance.
i. Scheduled maintenance.
ii. Break even maintenance.
 Overhauling.
 Absentism of worker.
 Shortage of raw mtl.
 Shortage of spare parts or accessories.
 Lack of order for production.
 Political unrest.
 Natural calamities.
 Breakage of warp & weft.
 Style & warp & weft.
 Style change.

۞ Productivity: It is the percentage equation expression the ratio between output & input.
Output
100
 productivity= Input
۞ Types of productivity:
1. Productivity of m/c.
2. Productivity of worker.
3. Productivity of mtl.
4. Productivity of time.
۞ Increasing efficiency means it does not increase the production:
 Suppose, PPM(1) =750
Efficiency (1) =85%
And PPM (2)=650
Efficiency=87%
PPI=60
0.85  60  750

60  39.37
1. So, production per hour  16.19

78
 0.87  60  650

60  39.37
2. So production per hour  14.36
Again PPM 700 and efficiency =90% at 60 PPI.
0.90  60  700

60  39.37
 production  16.002
So, increasing efficiency always does not increasing the production and lower efficiency means
faulty product.

79
 10.1. Layout of a particular weaving floor,

Elements of a layout plans

Floor plan
Material Movement
Pipeline
Power line
Material stack

80
 10.2. Utilities required for weaving
Following Utilities are required for weaving:
A. Generator for Electricity.
B. Boiler for Steam.
C. Compressor for Compressed air.
D. Pump for water supply.
E. A/C plant for conditioning.

Chapter 11. Fabric faults-their causes and remedies,

1. Starting mark:
Causes: Main cause is loom stoppage.
Remedy: This cannot be avoid but can be controlled by starting mark setting.
2. Reed mark:
Causes:
 If any fault occur at reed.
 Fault denting in the reed.
Remedy:
 Right selection of the reed and right denting.
3. Filling stop:
Causes:
 If weft is failed to reach FD1.
 If weft is too long and reach FD2
Remedy:
 Correct setting of the weft length.
 Correct setting of main nozzle.
 Correct setting of relay nozzle.
 Proper setting of air pressure.
 Proper setting of pre winder.
 Proper setting of creel position.
4. Snarl:
Causes:
 Excess main nozzle pressure.
 Low filling tension.
Remedy:
 Main nozzle air pressure control.
 Correct setting of the PFT finger value.
5. Double Pick:
Causes:
 Cutting problem of the cutter.
 Faulty setting of the air pressure.
81
Remedy:
 Cutter position is to be set correctly.
 Air pressure should be reset.

6. Miss Pick/ broken pick:
Causes:
 Excess air pressure of main nozzle.
Remedy:
 Main nozzle air pressure should be reduced.
7. Warp breakage:
Causes:
 Bad sizing.
 Low strength of the yarn.
 Crossing of the warp yarn.
 Loose or tigh yarn.
Remedy:
 Re knotting.
Proper sizing.

11.1. Standard commercial fabrics (jute/ cotton/ synthetic).

1. Jute:
a. Hessian Cloth
b. Sacking Cloth
c. Canvas
d. Carpet Backing Cloth (CBC)
2. Cotton:
a. Muslin
b. Voile
c. Poplin
d. Canvas
3. Synthetic
a. CVC (Chief value Cotton)
b. PC/TC
c. PET
d. 35/65
e. 80/20

82
Chapter 12. Related Calculation
Problems:
1. Production of loom:
PPM = 200, PPI = 50
200
 Production per loom per minute = 50 = 4″
 200 
  60  24  30 
 Production per loom per month =  50  inch
 200 70 
  60  365  
 Production per loom per year at 70% efficiency =  50 100  inch
200  60  365  70
= 50  100  36 yds
200  60  365  70
= 50  100  39.37 m

2. PPM = 350
PPI = 60
No. of loom = 45
Time = 7 days
Efficiency = 90%
Find out production in m
350 90 1
  60  24  7   45  
 Production = 60 100 39.37 m

3. PPM = 650
PPI = 58
No. of loom = 10
Time = 35 days
Production = 110000 m
Efficiency = ?
650  60  24  35  10 
 Production = 58  100  39.37
110000  58  100  39.37
η = 650  60  24  35  10
η = 76.77%

4. Wt. of yarn in fabric (warp & weft)

Warp count  Weft count
 Fabric width
EPI  PPI
20  22
 56
60  58
 In 5000m fabric, wt of weft warp
60  56  5000  1.05
0.914  840  20  2.2046
 In 5000m fabric, wt of weft
83
 58  39.37  5000  56  1.05
36  840  22  2.2046 Kg
5. Find out the wt. of required warp & weft to produce 5000m fabric
18  16
 58
66  62
66  58  5000  1.05  1.1
 Required warp = 0.9144  840  18  2.0246
62  39.37  5000  58  1.05  1.1
 Required weft = 36  840  16  2.2046
6. Calculate the yarn consumption of a loom per hour running at 180 PPM for producing
40  60
 56
72  48 fabric
180 1
 60 
 Production/hour/loom = 48 36 = 6.25yd
72  56  6.25  1.05  1.1
 Req. amount of warp = 840  40  2.004 = 0.393 Kg
48  36  6.25  56  1.05  1.1
 Req. amount of weft = 36  840  60  2.024 = 0.175 Kg
7. Calculate the time required to complete a weavers beam having 1000yds of warp on it. The woven
cloth is required to have 60 PPI. Loom speed is 200 and efficiency 80%. Assume any missing data.
210 60
  0.8
 Production/loom/hour = 60 36 = 4.67yds
Length of cloth from the beam
 Time req. = Actual production/hr
100  crimp
 Length of cloth from the beam = (Length in yds of warp× 100 ) – waste in yards
100  6
= (1000× 100 )-6
= 934 yds

934
Time required = 4.67 = 200hr

8. Calculate the actual yarn consumption per month of weaving mil having 100 looms of 250 ppm for
80  60
 56
the 110  54 fabric construction. Considering each point.
 Production per month of 100 looms at 100% efficiency
250 100
 (60  24  30) 
= 54 36 = 555556 yds
110  56  555556  1.05  1.1
 Required amount of warp = 840  80  2.204
= 26687 Kg
54  36  555556  56  1.05  1.1
 Required amount of weft = 36  840  60  2.204
= 17468 Kg
9. Find out thrust in Newton to drive a loom by using plate clutch system and conical clutch system. If
F=425N, μ=0.45 and θ=20°

84
 F 425
0.45
 For plate clutch, P =  = = 944.44 Newton
F sin  425sin 20∘
 For conical clutch system, P =  = 0.45 = 323.02 Newton
10.Calculate the production per shift of 10 hrs at 90% efficiency a weaving mill in average 22 picks per
cm from the following information:
No. of looms picks/cm PPM
120 20 220
16 25 210
110 28 200
220 90 1
 (60  10)   120 
 Production at 22 picks/cm = 20 100 100 m
= 6480 m
220 90 1
 (60  10)   16 
 Production at 22 picks/cm = 20 100 100
= 824.73 m
220 90 1
 (60  10)   110 
 Production at 22 picks/cm = 20 100 100
= 5400 m

Average production = (6480 + 824.734+5400) m
= 12704.73 m
11.Calculate the “reed space” required to produce a elastic fabric having 30% shrinkage (width of
finished fabric 50″)
130
1 50 
 Required reed space = 1 100
= 65 inch

85