James N.

Duxbury

Turned
SPIRAL
ILLUSIONS
A
s a teacher and demonstrator, trivets, precisely cut on a table Relatively basic designs can be pro-
I realize there are at least two saw (Photo 1). This type of trivet, a duced by making the same cuts on
types of woodturners. One functional piece that incorporates both sides, offset from front to back.
creates beautiful, artistic, one-of-a- negative space, is nobody’s idea of But designs are not limited to sets of
kind works, while the other creates art. But after making them on the concentric circles. A more compli-
precisely measured pieces, allowing table saw, I realized how this idea cated set of designs can be achieved
for repetition of elements, identi- could be created at the lathe, using with twelve or more centers. By
cal turnings, and matching sets. multiple centers to turn layered, offsetting the centers to make the
This project was inspired by simple intersecting, circular patterns. spaces between the centers tangen-
tial to each other, a crescent moon-
Design considerations shaped ring can be formed.
Inspiration: a basic This three-center turning creates a I draw most of these designs first
spatial third dimension, revealing to get an idea of what the final
table sawn trivet depth as the lighting and viewing piece should look like. Drawing
angles change. The piece illustrated also adds to the precision and
in this article is a basic example accuracy, which are necessary for
showing how to execute the design, the piece to be symmetrical and
layout, and cuts, but with a little properly proportioned. Each ring
alteration and imagination, much should be the same width, the same
more complicated and fascinat- depth, and have the same spacing.
ing possibilities can be explored. The actual turning involved will
Similar effects are commonly not seem very difficult since it is all
associated with German master cut on a flat surface, but this is an
1 turner Hans Weissflog, who was intermediate-level project because
A table sawn trivet provides a
conceptual model for cutting patterns chronicled by Terry Martin in the of the planning and precision it
to a precise depth to create new effects. December 2013 issue (vol 28, no 6) requires. Small variations will be
of American Woodturner. glaringly obvious.

22 American Woodturner October 2018

 F E AT U R E

Prep workpiece

2 3 4
On a square of hardwood, mark out the Drill a hole in the center, and the two Mark one corner with an X on the side.
center and two mounting holes in either mounting holes. Countersink the mounting This will help keep you oriented later.
direction along the diagonal. holes on both faces.

Mount and lay out workpiece

5 6 7
With the tailstock aiding with alignment, Draw in the largest circle the workpiece will On the outer edge of the workpiece,
screw the workpiece to the circlular accommodate. mark the center depth and lines defining
mounting plate. the height of the rings. The shaded areas
between the faces and the lines serve as a
reminder of what will be wasted.

Mounting and layout the center and the two 5⁄ 32" (4mm) Position the workpiece on center
Start with a piece of hardwood 6" mounting holes on the diagonal line with the aid of the tailstock against the
(15cm) square and ⅞" (22mm) thick. (Photo 3). Countersink the two mount- mounting disk, and attach it through
Shown is a piece of cherry, but any ing holes on both sides. Mark a refer- the mounting holes with two 1½"
close-grained hardwood will do. Draw ence X on the edge of one corner near (38mm) #10 flathead wood screws
lines from corner to corner to find the 5⁄ 32" hole (Photo 4). Now the piece is (Photo 5). Then draw the largest circle
the center. Notice the hole centers are ready to be mounted on the lathe. that will fit on the workpiece (Photo 6).
made with a good sharp set of dividers. Mounting requires a solid flat Next, mark the center of the outer edge
A compass and prick punch would also surface that will accept wood screws. and draw two lines, one 3⁄16" above
work, but I prefer dividers because they I recommend a ¾"- (19mm-) thick center and one 3⁄16" below it (Photo 7).
can do the same job faster and more plywood disk, 12" (30cm) or larger These lines indicate the thickness of
accurately. Set the dividers to 3½" in diameter, mounted on a face- the rings to be turned. Use a pencil to
(9cm). Mark the center of the piece and plate. Do not use “propeller-type” shade in the area from the surface to
two mounting holes along one of the configurations (i.e., a long rectan- the top of the rings, as this material
diagonals (Photo 2). Using a drill press gular board), as this type of mount- has to be removed first.
to establish perfectly vertical holes, ing can cause vibration and is very Now comes the first round of turning.
drill a 1⁄16" (1.6mm) reference hole in dangerous. Using a small spindle gouge, dish down

woodturner.org 23
 Turn down to top surface of rings Define new center

8 9 10
With a spindle gouge, dish the face of the A simple shopmade depth gauge is set Establish a new, offset center for all the
workpiece to the depth of the first edge line, from the edge line. Make sure your gauge rings on the front side by measuring ¼"
which will be the top surface of the rings. spans the face of the workpiece, and along the diagonal toward your X corner.
always measure from the face, so you get Remount the workpiece on the new
consistent measurements. center, again using the tailstock to align it.

Lay out rings

11 12 13 14 15
With the lathe spinning Dividers set to 9⁄16" mark Using the inner line of the Use the ½" dividers again Continue the process with
slowly, use dividers set at the outer line of the first first ring as the set point, to mark the outer line of the the ½" dividers until all
7⁄16" to scribe the inner line ring. dividers set to ½" mark the second ring, keying to the three rings are defined, as
of the first ring. inner line of the second ring. outer line of the first ring. well as a final outer line.

the surface to the depth of the top of are crisp and sharp, as they will be used thereby defining both sides of the first
the rings (Photo 8). I use a simple shop- to scratch in guidelines for the rings. ring (Photo 12). The remaining rings are
made depth gauge with a brass pin set Draw a line from the drilled center all scribed with the ½" dividers. With
to match the depth of the top ring line, hole to the corner with the X on it. the lathe turning and using the toolrest
making sure the bearing surface of the Then take the dividers set at ¼" and as an anchor, put one point of the divid-
depth gauge spans the full width of the step off a ¼" distance from the drilled ers into the first ring line and lightly
face of the workpiece (Photo 9). Sand hole along this line (Photo 10). This mark the inside of the second ring (Photo
this turned surface to 320-grit abrasive. will be the new center for all of the 13). Then put one point of the ½" divid-
Remove the piece from the lathe. rings turned on this side. Using the ers into the outer line of the first ring
tailstock to align the piece on the new and mark the outside of the second ring
Lay out rings center point, remount the piece on (Photo 14). Repeat the process until three
As noted, I like to use dividers and have the lathe and again secure it with the rings have been defined. Finally, from
many sets of them. These layout steps mounting screws. Now, with the lathe the inside of the last ring, mark a single,
can be accomplished by changing the turning at slow speed, place the 7⁄16" outer line (Photo 15).
settings on a single compass or with one dividers on the toolrest with one of
set of dividers, but for accuracy I set and the points in the new center hole and Turn rings
tag four sets of dividers with key mea- lightly scratch in the first, inner line Now comes the fun part—cutting the
surements. The settings in this case are for the first ring (Photo 11). With the rings. Be gentle and use sharp tools. I use
¼" (6mm), ½" (13mm), 7⁄16" (11mm), and lathe still turning slowly, use the 9⁄16" a very sharp 1⁄16" parting tool. When
9⁄16" (14mm). Make sure your divider tips
set of dividers to mark the second line, removing wood between rings, always

24 American Woodturner October 2018

 F E AT U R E

start in the center of the wood to and continue this line about ½" past other side are holding this together
be removed and work your way left the center. Then take the ¼" dividers now. Use a very sharp tool and very
and right, one small cut at a time, to and locate a new center ¼" away from light pressure. Start cuts in the center
minimize the risk of chipping off the the X corner (Photo 19). Important: If between rings, and now when the
tops of the ⅛"- (3mm-) wide rings. For you offset the back in the same direction proper depth is obtained, you will
the last cuts at the edges of the rings as you did the front, you will end up with start to pierce through and expose
themselves, only take half-width a handful of small rings. Remount the the back of the other rings. Don’t
cuts, approximately 1⁄32" (0.8mm) at piece on this new center and follow cut any deeper than you need to—
a time. the ring-marking steps shown in all you want is daylight and a clean
Start the first cut between the Photos 11-15 to define three rings for opening (Photo 20). Again, widen the
center and the first ring line (Photo this side. cuts, similar to the ones done on the
16). The depth of cut must be down Begin cutting the rings as you did other side but with much less pres-
to the center of the thickness of the on the front side, but remember, sure (Photo 21). When all the cutting
piece; I use my depth gauge, now set only the small, fragile rings on the has been completed, any small slivers
for the center depth, to confirm. Note
that for consistent measurement, the
reference surface while gauging the
depth of cut is always the outer face of Cut and sand front Flip workpiece
the workpiece. Sneak up to the proper rings and repeat
depth—don’t be in a hurry. Once that
cut has been made and the proper
depth established, remove the wood
from there back to the center and then
clean the remainder out to the first
ring mark (Photo 17).
Make the next cut in the center of
the wood to be removed between the
16 19
Start your first cut between the center After flipping the piece and dishing it
first and second ring, again confirm- and the inner line of the first ring. down as in Photo 8, remove the piece
Establish the depth, then slowly and from the lathe and establish a new
ing depth as you go. Then widen carefully widen the cut. offset ring center. This time, set the
this cut as required and continue center ¼" away from the X corner on
the diagonal.
outward. When all the rings have
been formed, including the area
outside the third ring to the final
line, gently sand all surfaces to 320-
grit abrasive (Photo 18). The front is
completed.
17
Clear the wood back to the center, then
Flip and repeat to the inner line of the first ring. Slow
Remove the workpiece from the
and gentle nibbling does it; don’t be 20
in a hurry. Repeat the process for the
lathe. Turn it over and remount the second and third rings, including the
space outside the third ring.
piece on the original center. Repeat
the initial steps and instructions used
on the front side: mark the widest
possible circle, dish down to the
depth of the top of the rings (you’ve
already marked the depth on the 21
edge), sand, and remove the piece With the ring lines defined, as in steps
11-15, cut the grooves that define
from lathe.
18 the rings just deep enough to pierce
To locate the offset turning center Sand the rings now, while they have the through. Widen the cuts using as
on the back, draw a line from the most support. gentle a touch as possible.

corner with the X on it to the center

woodturner.org 25
can be removed with a razor knife Do all final sanding and finishing The finished turning can be incorpo-
and the piece gently sanded as as desired. rated in various ways to yield beautiful
before (Photo 22). Now you have the basics to do as well as functional items. I recently
more complicated pieces, as shown completed the lamp shown in Photo
Finishing touches in Photo 24. Usually, I have to 25 using an offset ring turning as the
Remove the piece from the lathe draw these pieces to get the exact focal point. Next, I might create larger
and trim off the mounting hole centers aligned on the front side. versions, possibly for a wall hanging or
corners, and cut a pleasing cres- The opposite side can have offset a much thinner set of pieces to incorpo-
cent into the top. The 45-degree rings also or just a continuous set rate into a hanging mobile. With a little
angle on a small combination of evenly spaced rings. Painting imagination, you too can create unique
square and a coffee can work well and shading can also be done to pieces using these techniques to add a
for marking these cuts (Photo 23). complement the design. decorative touch.

Jim Duxbury, a woodturner and inventor,

Clean up rings Shape corners prides himself on creating wooden
items that function with precision and
stimulate creativity, while retaining the
qualities and beauty of the wood grain.
For more, visit duxterity.com/ec.

22 23
Use a craft knife to clean up any stray Final steps include corner treatments,
fibers, then sand. using a square and an old coffee can to
mark the cuts.

24 25
More complicated patterns are achievable by mixing and matching the various steps detailed This approach can be incorporated into
here. Careful planning helps to achieve desired results. an unlimited number of other projects.

26 American Woodturner October 2018