DC1000 Service Manual
DC1000 Service Manual
Page
II. Set Up 6
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I. General Information
Purpose
This manual provides information for the servicing of SCIFIT DC1000
treadmills. It uses systematic troubleshooting procedures to address
problems that may arise with the DC1000. The actions taken to resolve
problems must be performed in the order stated. Deviating from this
sequence may cause damage to the equipment, lead to unnecessary
repairs, or void the warranty.
Technical Support
For further assistance in the service of SCIFIT products, please call (800)
745-1373 or (918) 359-2000, ext 3. We can also be reached by fax at
(918) 359-2045 or by e-mail at [email protected]. The product support
department is staffed from 7 AM to 6 PM CST Monday through Friday. A
voicemail service is available 24 hours daily for recording messages to
request technical support and to order replacement parts. Our mailing
address is 5151 S. 110th E. Avenue, Tulsa, OK 74146.
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3. SCIFIT’s warranty does not apply to parts requiring replacement or
repair due to abnormal wear and tear, improper use, corrosion
(perspiration), improper maintenance, improper rated grounded or
dedicated electrical circuits, or improper storage, nor does it apply
where all or part of the product has been altered from its original
state.
6. The following items are covered for a period of one (1) year only:
Contact Heart Rate Grips
Wireless Heart Rate PCB/ Transmitter
Parts Supply
During the first 30 days, warranty parts will be shipped via next day
overnight delivery, excluding international shipments. Determination must
be made before 2:00 p.m. CST on any given weekday for next day
delivery. After 30 days, parts will be shipped via ground shipment. The
customer is welcome to request overnight or second day parts shipping at
the customer’s expense. If requested, SCIFIT will charge the customer’s
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UPS or Federal Express account, or COD the difference in freight cost
between ground shipment and overnight or second day.
Return Parts
In order to research problems and ensure they do not recur, the
rapid return of defective parts is our biggest help! Thank you in
advance for your assistance.
Please follow these three (3) easy steps for returning parts:
Step 1: Keep the box and packing material in which the new parts arrived.
Locate the enclosed prepaid UPS return label.
Step 2: Wrap the defective part and place in the box for a safe return.
Include a copy of the picking ticket that came with the replacement part.
Step 3: SCIFIT service will include a prepaid return label in the parts box
for only those parts that need to be returned. Call UPS at (800) 742-5777
for pick-up. When ALL of the parts are received and inspected at the
factory, a credit will be issued for the original parts invoice. Attention
service companies: Warranty labor invoices will NOT be paid until
required defective parts are returned to the factory.
Installation
SCIFIT is NOT responsible for the repair or replacement of any unit or part
damaged during installation. The customer is responsible for inspection of
each unit and part for damage at the time of installation. The customer is
responsible for pursuing all damage claims with the installer.
Service Labor
Where applicable, the SCIFIT service consultant will arrange a local field
service technician to provide field support. Every effort will be made to
schedule service during the two (2) working days following notification of a
problem or as soon as repair parts are available to the field service
technician. Where possible, parts will be supplied in advance of the field
service technicians so that the product is repaired with one (1) call. All
jobs to be performed under labor warranty must have SCIFIT’s prior
written approval or they will not be paid.
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Preventative Maintenance
Preventative maintenance, completed according to the schedule below,
will keep your SCIFIT equipment functioning properly. We realize your
time is valuable and have kept these maintenance items to a minimum.
This preventative maintenance schedule assumes the equipment is
utilized 6 to 8 hours per day. If the equipment is utilized to a greater
extent, the maintenance schedule must be adjusted accordingly.
Note 1: Clean the console with a damp cloth. The rest of the machine
can be cleaned using common household cleaners.
Note 2: Be careful not to vacuum the electronics. Touching the
electronics with any object can cause static damage.
Note 3: These maintenance items should be performed every 12,000
miles. This schedule assumes a treadmill is operated 12,000 miles in one
(1) year. The treadmill console will display “FLIP” in the top center
window when 12,000 miles has been reached.
Note 4: We use Super Lube ® synthetic grease (item no. 82328). Any
high quality industrial grease will do.
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II. DC1000 Treadmill Power Requirements
6
III. Theory of Operations DC1000 (120 VAC)
Component Functions
3. Upper PCB
A. Powers the serial communications (C-safe and CardioKey).
B. Powers the contact heart rate and wireless heart rate jacks.
C. Powers the membrane switch panel.
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D. Contains the display LEDs and LED drivers. 12 VDC from the
lower PCB is regulated to 5 VDC, which powers the LEDs.
E. Contains five (5) and eight (8) VDC voltage regulators to power
various circuits on the upper PCB.
F. Contains the memory and processor components
4. Elevation motor
A 120 VAC motor with 345 inch-pounds of torque is attached to a 600-to-1
ratio gearbox. It draws 1.5 to 2 amps nominally, but like all constant
speed motors, it draws five (5) to six (6) times it’s nominal current when
energized (this is called inrush current). Its duty cycle is two (2) minutes.
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System Functions
1. Turning on the treadmill
A. The power cord must be plugged into a 120 VAC, 15 or higher amp
dedicated circuit.
B. Turning on the rocker switch provides power (120 VAC) to the
lower PCB.
C. Power to the lower PCB is verified by observing a lighted LED
labeled “+12” at D5.
D. Power (12 VDC) is routed from the lower PCB to the upper PCB
(pin 5 of the eight-pin Telco cable). The upper PCB regulates the
12 VDC into 5 VDC for VR1, which powers the HR power pins and
other components, and 8 VDC for VR2, which powers C-Safe and
CardioKey.
E. On start up, if emergency stop magnet is in place, the display will
emit a beep and it will begin a startup sequence. The upper display
window will show how many times it has been turned on, the left
display window will show the software version, and the right display
window will show the system of measure: English (Bri) or metric
(SI). This information will be displayed for five (5) seconds and
then the upper display window will show a racetrack pattern and
zeros in the other windows.
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E. The upper PCB controls the elevation system. It provides the
voltage to the EPOT by interfacing through the lower PCB and then
measures the voltage drop across the EPOT. If there is a
difference between the elevation entered by the user and the
elevation measured across the EPOT, the display PCB sends a
signal to a relay on the lower PCB to switch on 120VAC for the
elevation circuit. The voltage runs through the starter capacitor to
the elevation limit switches and then to the elevation motor. The
motor runs until the user defined value and the measured value
matches. If there is a failure, the upper PCB turns off the signal to
the relay and it cannot be reestablished unless power is recycled
and a new command is issued. (“Up” LED is D9, “Down” LED is
D8; “Down” signal is #6 and “up” signal is #7 on the 8-pin Telco).
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IV. Mechanical Troubleshooting
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B. Deck / Belt Friction Test
1. With the treadmill either turned off or in idle mode, stand on the running
belt (P1246) with your feet in positions 1 and 4. Position your toes so they
are approximately 12 inches from the motor hood (P1252).
2. Place both hands on the handle bar (A1793).
3. Push on the handle bar to see if you can propel yourself backwards on the
running belt. Reminder: Your full weight needs to be on the running
belt and your feet in positions 1 and 4.
4. Repeat step 1-3 with your feet in positions 2 and 3 instead of positions 1
and 4.
Note: If you can propel yourself without the belt binding up in either foot
position set, the belt and deck friction should not be a problem. If the
friction is significantly higher in one (1) foot position set than the other
or the belt to bind ups or sticks in either, the belt needs to be replaced
and the deck flipped or replaced.
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V. Electrical Troubleshooting
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Electrical Troubleshooting Table (cont.)
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B. Troubleshooting Flowcharts
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Status Query Action
DC1000
Belt Does
Not Move
No No Yes
Motor
8-125 D7 Belt
Fix connection or wires, if lead wires and
No Yes VDC across Yes Enable LED lit No
possible. connections
A1+ & A2? on lower pcb?
good?
Yes No No
Yes No
Yes No
Speed
values change Replace
No
when using speed membrane.
arrows?
Yes
Replace Display
PCB.
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Status Query Action
DC1000
Intermittently
Shuts Down /
Note 1: Adjusting pot clockwise will Resets
increase torque. Counterclockwise
will decrease torque. Adjust so the Yes
belt is not surging but is not lagging
during foot plants.
No
No Secure Magnet
Yes
IF T1
on lower PCB High
Lube or flip/replace
is wiggled,does Yes friction between
deck and belt
D5 LED (+12) deck and belt?
flicker?
Yes No
Replace lower PCB.
No
IR
Comp Pot
Properly adjust pot Yes
set too high? Yes
No (Note 1)
Error codes
Yes Contact SCIFIT
on display?
No
Excessive
Replace lower PCB. Yes heat at motor
No
terminals?
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Status Query Action Note
Yes Yes
Replace motor
Yes No controller (lower No Yes
board).
Motor Motor
cont. to fuse cont. to fuse
Fix or replace wire or
block elev. wires & No No block elev. wires
connection.
connections & connections
good? good?
Yes Yes
Yes Yes
Yes Yes
Starter Starter
capacitor and Fix connection or replace capacitor and
No No
connections starter capacitor. connections
good?** good?**
Yes Replace elevation motor. Yes
* If the unit continually blows fuses, replace the motor controller (lower board).
** If you have a four wire elevation motor, your starter capacitor should measure
24.5-25.5 uf across the two lead wires. If you have a three wire elevation motor,
your capacitor should measure 34.5-35.5 uf across wire leads.
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C. Lower PCB LED’s and Upper PCB Jacks
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D. Lower PCB (Motor Controller) Diagram
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E. Block Diagrams
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F. Test Mode
The Test Mode provides technicians with additional information for use in
troubleshooting the DC1000 treadmill. Turn the power switch on the treadmill to
the OFF position. Press the ELEVATION UP arrow and the ELEVATION DOWN
arrow, and simultaneously turn the treadmill power switch to the ON position.
Continue to press ELEVATION UP and ELEVATION DOWN throughout the
entire power up process and until “tESt” appears in the center display. This
process will take three (3) seconds.
1. Display test
Press any button. The first test will illuminate each individual segment of all three
(3) displays in a race track pattern. The LED to the sides of the top display as
well as the LED between the heart symbols will be illuminated in turn. Press any
button. The second test will illuminate the number “8” in sequence for all the
displays and then illuminate all the LEDs. Press any button. The third test will
illuminate all the displays and all the LEDs and keep them all on. Press any key
to end the test and advance to the Switch test.
2. Switch Test
“S” and “I” will be shown in the top display. The second number corresponds to
the switches as shown in the table below. Press the appropriate switch for the
number displayed. If the switch functions properly, the number in the top display
will advance. The number in the top display will be shown in the sequence listed
in the following table and the switches must be pressed in this sequence. If the
switches are not pressed in this sequence, the test will not advance.
3. Grade Test
When the Switch test is complete, the system will automatically advance to the
Grade test. “GrAd” will be shown in the top display. This test removes the
software from the elevation control system. It utilizes only the hardware of the
system. Press the ELEVATION UP arrow only or ELEVATION DOWN arrow
only to determine if the elevation system is working properly.
WARNING: Do not press both the ELEVATION UP and ELEVATION DOWN
arrows at the same time – severe damage will result!
The speed display will show “UP” or “dn” depending on whether the treadmill’s
elevation is going up or down. The elevation display will show the scale that is
used by the software—high numbers when the treadmill is down and low
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numbers when it is elevated. When satisfied that the elevation system is
working, press STOP to advance to the next test.
4. Speed Test
WARNING: DO NOT TO STAND ON THE BELT!! IT WILL MOVE DURING
THIS TEST!!
“bELt” will be shown on the top display. This test removes the software from the
speed control system. It utilizes only the hardware of the system. Press the
Speed Up and Speed Down arrows to determine if the speed system is working
properly. The elevation display shows the scale that is used by the software with
higher numbers for faster speeds. When satisfied that the speed system is
working, press STOP to advance to the next test.
6. EEPROM Tests
“EE” will be shown in the top display. If the EEPROM passes the test, “PAS” will
be shown in the Elevation display. If it fails, “FAL” will be shown and the upper
display PCB will need to be replaced. Press any key to end this test. When the
display goes back to the start mode, the system will perform a watchdog test.
The watchdog circuit ensures the software is functioning properly. If the system
passes the watchdog test, “dOG” will be shown in the top display momentarily
and the display will go back to the start mode. If the system fails the watchdog
test, “dOG” will remain in the top display, a continuous sound will be heard, and
the upper display PCB will need to be replaced.
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G. Club Mode (Thru Version 1.2 Software)
The Club Mode enables club owners and managers to customize certain features
of the DC1000 treadmill. Press the ELEVATION UP and ELEVATION DOWN
arrows simultaneously for three (3) seconds to enter this mode. (Press the keys
until “UnIt” is shown in the top display)
1. Unit of Measure
This setting determines whether English or metric units of measure will be
displayed. The top display will show “UnIt”. The speed display will show “brl” or
Sl”. “brl” represents British or English units (miles) and “SI” represents metric
units (kilometers). Select the unit of measure by using the SPEED UP, SPEED
DOWN, ELEVATION UP, or ELEVATION DOWN keys. After selecting the
desired unit of measure, press the SELECT key to advance to the next setting.
2. Duration.
This setting allows the owner/manager to select the maximum workout time,
which will be available to the user. The speed display will show “dUr”. The
range is from 0 to 90 minutes in increments of 5 minutes. “0” is unlimited time
and is the default setting. The top display shows the time selected. Select the
duration by using the ELEVATION UP or ELEVATION DOWN keys. After
selecting the desired duration, press the SELECT key to advance to the next
setting.
3. External Communication
This setting selects either the C-Safe (CSF) or Cardio-Key (CAr) communications
protocol. The top display will show “S.CO”. The speed display will show either
“CAr” or “CSF”. Use the SPEED UP or DOWN keys to toggle between the two
(2) settings. If neither C-Safe nor Cardio-Key is used, either setting will work.
After selecting the desired communication protocol, press the SELECT key to
advance to the next setting.
4. User Speed
This setting allows the owner/manager to select the maximum speed, which will
be available to the user. The top display will show “U.SPd”. The range will
depend on the factory settings the defaults of which are 0.3 to 10.0 MPH (1 to 16
KPH). The speed display shows the value selected. The default setting is 10.0
MPH (16.0 KPH). Select the maximum user speed by using the SPEED UP or
SPEED DOWN arrows. After selecting the desired speed, press the SELECT
key to advance to the next setting.
5. Distance
This function displays the distance since the deck was last flipped. The top
display will show “FLIP”. The speed and elevation displays combine to show the
distance with the speed display showing thousands of miles (or kilometers) and
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the elevation display showing hundreds of miles (or kilometers). If “FLIP” is
displayed in the TIME window in normal operating mode and the deck has been
flipped, the following steps must be performed to clear the distance. Press and
hold the ELEVATION UP arrow for three (3) seconds to reset (once 12,000 miles
has been accumulated). Press SELECT to exit the Club Mode and return to start
mode. If the treadmill is not displaying “FLIP” in the TIME window, press
SELECT to advance to Speed Calibration.
6. Calibrate Speed
“CALS” will be shown in the top display. This setting calibrates the speed of the
treadmill. After this calibration is completed, the system will reboot, load data
and resume normal operation. If you want to calibrate the elevation instead of
speed, press SELECT to bypass this Setting.
WARNING: The belt will start moving at the set low speed.
The top window will show the actual belt speed. The speed display will show the
low speed setting of 0.5. Use the SPEED UP or SPEED DOWN arrows to adjust
the value in the elevation window to 15.
Do NOT have anyone walk on the belt. On the power PCB, there is a
potentiometer (pot) labeled R56. It is located to the side of the transformer.
Adjust the pot until 0.50 to 0.54 is shown in the top window. Turning the pot
clockwise increases the value.
Now walk on the belt. If the belt stops or is sluggish, adjust the pot, labeled R66,
until the belt runs smooth. This pot is located by the large heat sink on the side
of the PCB. The value in the top window will be around 0.50 to 0.55. Turning the
pot clockwise increases the value. Press the START key.
The SPEED window will show 12.0. Use the SPEED UP and SPEED DOWN
arrows to adjust the value in the top window to read 12.0 or somewhere between
11.96 and 12.05. Press the START key.
The SPEED window will show 6.0. Use the SPEED UP and SPEED DOWN
arrows to adjust the value in the top window to read between 5.97 and 6.05. The
value in the ELEVATION window should be between 76 and 78. Press the
START key. The upper display will flash “SCAL PAS” and reboot back to the
main screen.
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7. Calibrate Elevation
If you have calibrated the speed, you will need to reenter the Club Setting Mode
again. Press SELECT until “CALE” is shown in the top display. This setting
calibrates the elevation of the treadmill. Press the ELEVATION UP and
ELEVATION DOWN switches simultaneously for three (3) seconds to enter the
elevation calibration subprogram. “ECAL” will be shown in the top display.
Press START.
The top display will show the high grade selected the Factory Settings Mode,
which is “25.0”. The speed display will show “UP2”. The elevation display
shows position in the 256-bit scale used by the software as indicated by the
elevation potentiometer (it should be more than 225 when the treadmill is
completely elevated). The treadmill will elevate to the high limit switch. The top
display will then change to “0.0” which is the low grade set in the Factory Settings
Mode. The speed display will show “dn4”. The elevation display should be less
than 30 when the treadmill is completely lowered. The treadmill will descend to
the lower limit switch. The software will automatically create a scale based on
the difference in resistance of the potentiometer from the upper to the lower limit
switches.
When the elevation calibration is complete, the top display will show “ECAL” and
the speed display will show the lower grade limit and the elevation display will
show the upper grade limit (both in terms of the scale value). Press START and
the system will reboot, load data and resume normal operation.
The Club Mode enables club owners and managers to customize certain features
of the DC1000 treadmill. Press the ELEVATION UP and ELEVATION DOWN
arrows simultaneously for three (3) seconds to enter this mode. (Press the keys
until “UnIt” is shown in the top display)
1. Unit of Measure
This setting determines whether English or metric units of measure will be
displayed. The top display will show “UnIt”. The speed display will show “brl” or
Sl”. “brl” represents British or English units (miles) and “S1” represents metric
units (kilometers). Select the unit of measure by using the SPEED UP, SPEED
DOWN, ELEVATION UP, or ELEVATION DOWN keys. After selecting the
desired unit of measure, press the SELECT key to advance to the next setting.
2. Duration.
This setting allows the owner/manager to select the maximum workout time,
which will be available to the user. The speed display will show “dUr”. The
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range is from 0 to 90 minutes in increments of 5 minutes. “0” is unlimited time
and is the default setting. The top display shows the time selected. Select the
duration by using the ELEVATION UP or ELEVATION DOWN keys. After
selecting the desired duration, press the SELECT key to advance to the next
setting.
3. External Communication
This setting selects either the C-Safe (CSF) or Cardio-Key (CAr) communications
protocol. The top display will show “S.CO”. The speed display will show either
“CAr” or “CSF”. Use the SPEED UP or DOWN keys to toggle between the two
(2) settings. If neither C-Safe nor Cardio-Key is used, either setting will work.
After selecting the desired communication protocol, press the SELECT key to
advance to the next setting.
4. User Speed
This setting allows the owner/manager to select the maximum speed, which will
be available to the user. The top display will show “U.SPd”. The range will
depend on the factory settings the defaults of which are 0.3 to 10.0 MPH (1 to 16
KPH). The speed display shows the value selected. The default setting is 10.0
MPH (16.0 KPH). Select the maximum user speed by using the SPEED UP or
SPEED DOWN arrows. After selecting the desired speed, press the SELECT
key to advance to the next setting.
5. Distance
This function displays the distance since the deck was last flipped. The top
display will show “FLIP”. The speed and elevation displays combine to show the
distance with the speed display showing thousands of miles (or kilometers) and
the elevation display showing hundreds of miles (or kilometers). If “FLIP” is
displayed in the TIME window in normal operating mode and the deck has been
flipped, the following steps must be performed to clear the distance. Press and
hold the ELEVATION UP arrow for three (3) seconds to reset (once 12,000 miles
has been accumulated). Press SELECT to exit the Club Mode and return to start
mode. If the treadmill is not displaying “FLIP” in the TIME window, press
SELECT to advance to Speed Calibration.
6. Calibrate Speed
“CALS” will be shown in the top display. This setting calibrates the speed of the
treadmill. After this calibration is completed, the system will reboot, load data
and resume normal operation. If you want to calibrate the elevation instead of
speed, press SELECT to bypass this Setting.
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Make sure there is nothing on the treadmill belt. It will be moving at high
speed on this next step. In SPEED CALIBRATION mode, the target speed
appears in the speed window, while the actual speed appears in the time
window. The elevation window displays a default variable set by the software on
a 250-bit scale. Press the START button one (1) time to begin SPEED
CALIBRATION. The belt will start to run at a very rapid speed.
The target speed of “10.0” will appear in the speed window. Whatever the actual
speed is will appear in the time window. If the actual speed is more than .30 mph
faster than the target speed, turn the speed pot, labeled R56 on the motor
controller (lower PCB), counterclockwise until the range is found. If the actual
speed is lower than the target speed, turn the speed pot clockwise until actual
speed is between “10.00 and 10.30” mph. Once the speeds are within range,
press the START button.
Let the treadmill belt slow down completely before performing this next
step. “Ir C” will be present in the speed window. This part of the procedure
determines how the motor adjusts to having a load on the belt. The
compensation variable appears in the elevation window. To make compensation
adjustments, use the SPEED UP arrow to increase or SPEED DOWN arrow to
decrease compensation. If the belt is not moving, increase the compensation by
pressing the SPEED UP arrow until it does. The belt should be moving at a low
speed. Walk on the belt. If the belt stops or bogs down badly, the compensation
needs to be increased. If the belt is very jerky, the motor is usually
overcompensating and the compensation should be lowered using the SPEED
DOWN arrow. Perform this step until the belt movement feels smooth when
walked upon. When accomplished, press SELECT. The treadmill will now go
into an Auto Calibration mode.
Do not press any buttons or interfere with the belt in any way during Auto
Calibration. During this step, the upper PCB will automatically search for and
calibrate low speed (.3 mph), average speed (4.5 mph), and high speed (10.0
mph). Once completed, the upper PCB will flash “SCAL PAS”. Press START to
return to the main screen.
7. Calibrate Elevation
If you have calibrated the speed, you will need to reenter the Club Setting Mode
again. Press SELECT until “CALE” is shown in the top display. This setting
calibrates the elevation of the treadmill. Press the ELEVATION UP and
ELEVATION DOWN switches simultaneously for three (3) seconds to enter the
elevation calibration subprogram. “ECAL” will be shown in the top display.
Press START.
The top display will show the high grade selected the Factory Settings Mode,
which is “25.0”. The speed display will show “UP2”. The elevation display
shows position in the 256-bit scale used by the software as indicated by the
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elevation potentiometer (it should be more than 225 when the treadmill is
completely elevated). The treadmill will elevate to the high limit switch. The top
display will then change to “0.0” which is the low grade set in the Factory Settings
Mode. The speed display will show “dn4”. The elevation display should be less
than 30 when the treadmill is completely lowered. The treadmill will descend to
the lower limit switch. The software will automatically create a scale based on
the difference in resistance of the potentiometer from the upper to the lower limit
switches.
When the elevation calibration is complete, the top display will show “ECAL” and
the speed display will show the lower grade limit and the elevation display will
show the upper grade limit (both in terms of the scale value). Press START and
the system will reboot, load data and resume normal operation.
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7. Let the treadmill belt slow down completely before performing this next
step. “Ir C” will be present in the speed window. The default value of “12”
will be showing in the elevation window. This part of the procedure
determines how the motor adjusts to having a load on the belt. The
compensation variable appears in the elevation window. To make
compensation adjustments, use the SPEED UP arrow to increase or SPEED
DOWN arrow to decrease compensation. If the belt is not moving, increase
the compensation by pressing the SPEED UP arrow until it does. The belt
should be moving at a low speed. Walk on the belt. If the belt stops or bogs
down badly, the compensation needs to be increased. If the belt is very jerky,
the motor is usually overcompensating and the compensation should be
lowered using the SPEED DOWN arrow. Perform this step until the belt
movement feels smooth when walked upon. When accomplished, press
SELECT. The treadmill will now go into an Auto Calibration mode.
8. Do not press any buttons or interfere with the belt in any way during
Auto Calibration. During this step, the upper PCB will automatically search
for and calibrate low speeds (.3 mph), average speed (4.5mph), and high
speed (10.0 mph). Once “SCAL PAS” appears, press START to return to the
main screen.
9. Test the operations of the treadmill. If there is a problem, please call SCIFIT
Service @ 1-800-745-1373.
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VI. Adjustments and Parts Replacement
NOTE: Repeat the “Checking Belt Tension” and “Adjusting Belt Tension”
procedures until optimal tension is achieved.
WARNING: Over-tensioning the running belt can cause premature belt, deck
and roller failure. For this reason, running belts and decks are
considered as "normal wear” items that are not covered by
warranty.
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B. Deck and Running Belt Replacement
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5. Remove the two (2) rear end caps by removing two (2) 5/16” bolts, one (1)
per side, using a ½” wrench and socket. Using a 9/16” wrench, remove
the 3/8” bolt on each side securing the foot pad (P1250) and spacer
(A1249) to each side.
6. Remove the two (2) running belt tensioning socket head cap screws, one
(1) on each side, using a 5/16” Allen wrench.
7. Remove the tension bracket (P1439) from each side.
8. Locate the guide roller assemblies (P1242). There is one (1) guide roller
assembly (P1242) on the bottom side of each extrusion.
9. Using a ½” wrench, remove the two (2) bolts with 5/16” lock washers that
runs up through the front roller cover (A1917), the extrusion and into the
guide roller bracket. There is one (1) located on the underside of each
extrusion.
10. Slide guide roller assemblies out from under the extrusion and deck belt.
11. Using a 9/16” socket, remove the two (2) bolts holding front roller cover to
the motor plate. This will allow you to remove the front roller cover.
12. Using a ½” socket, loosen the ten (10) outer bolts that run through the
deck mount braces (P1429) and cross braces (P1274) on the bottom of
the deck (P1425), approximately three (3) to four (4) turns. Only loosen
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these outside bolts. Do not do anything to the bolts that runs
through the cross braces and into the deck.
13. Once the deck is free, remove the left front roller bolt using a 9/16”
wrench. Then remove the right front roller bolt. Rotate the right side of
the front roller (A1244) under the belt (P1246). This will loosen the timing
belt (P1247) and make it easy to slide off. The front roller will now be
rotated almost 90° from its original position. Pul l out the front roller.
14. Clean off any wax built up on the front roller with a straight edge.
15. The rear roller (A1245) will slide out the back of the treadmill. Repeat
cleaning procedure.
16. Slide out deck and belt from the back of the treadmill.
17. Remove the five (5) deck cross braces (P1274).
18. Remove T-nuts in the deck and insert on the opposite side of the deck.
19. Install the five (5) deck cross braces on opposite side of new deck. Do not
over torque bolts. Use blue Loctite on these bolts.
20. Mist the rubber frame strips (A1441) on the deck frame braces (P1440)
with WD-40 to make the deck easier to slide.
21. Slide belt and deck back in place in the side frames. Be careful the rubber
on the long deck braces does not bind while sliding.
22. Install the 1” rubber caps (P1487) on rear roller.
23. With the running belt slid over, install the rear roller into the extrusions,
making sure the threads for the tension bolts can be seen.
24. Position each tension bracket over the lips of the extrusion from which
they were removed. With a mallet, tap the bracket onto lips of the
extrusion. Do the same to both sides.
25. Insert the rear roller tension bolt through each tension bracket and into the
rear roller. When threads catch, turn each bolt approximately 3-4 turns.
26. Push each end cap bracket back into the appropriate extrusion.
27. Line up the holes in the end cap bracket with the holes in the extrusions
and welded tabs of the rear cross member.
28. Insert the bolts for the foot pads and foot spacers on each side. This bolt
will run from inside the extrusion on down through hole.
29. Slide spacer onto each bolt followed by the flat washer and foot pad.
Place 9/16” wrench onto bolt head and turn foot pad clockwise until tight.
30. Insert the bolts that run up through the welded tabs and the end cap
brackets. Put a 5/16”-18 nylock nut on each bolt and tighten down. Insert
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the front roller the reverse of the way you removed it. Position the roller
with motor belt in place and install the two (2) front roller bolts. The right
side has a roller spacer (A1401) that goes between the front roller and
frame.
31. Slide deck to where it is ½” to 1” from the front roller. Tighten the ten (10)
outer bolts that run through the cross braces on the bottom of the deck.
32. Install the two (2) guide rollers. Hook the roller housing inside the deck
belt and place the flat side of the guide roller bracket on the innermost lip
of the extrusion.
33. Start the HCS 5/16 – 18 X ¾” and 5/16” lock washer up through the
extrusion and the guide roller bracket.
34. Make sure the bracket is perpendicular (90° angle) to the extrusion.
Tighten bracket in place.
35. Install rear roller tensioning socket head cap screws. There is one (1) on
each side.
36. Install the two (2) end caps, and the two (2) footpads.
37. Tension the running belt by tightening the rear roller tensioning socket
head cap screws equally.
38. Plug the treadmill power cord into the electrical outlet.
39. Turn the unit on and press START to allow the unit to return to 0% grade.
40. Tension the running belt according to the “Running Belt Tracking and
Tensioning” procedure (Page 34).
38
C. Cushioned Deck and Running Belt Replacement
39
4. Using a Philips screwdriver, remove the motor hood (P1252).
5. Remove the two (2) rear end caps by removing two (2) 5/16” bolts, one (1)
per side, using a ½” wrench and socket. Using a 9/16” wrench, remove
the 3/8” bolt on each side securing the foot pad (P1250) and spacer
(A1249) to each side.
6. Remove the two (2) running belt tensioning socket head cap screws, one
(1) on each side, using a 5/16” Allen wrench.
7. Remove the tension bracket (P1439) from each side.
8. Locate the guide roller assemblies (P1242). There is one (1) guide roller
assembly (P1242) on the bottom side of each extrusion.
9. Using a ½” wrench, remove the two (2) bolts with 5/16” lock washers that
runs up through the front roller cover (A1917), the extrusion and into the
guide roller bracket. There is one (1) located on the underside of each
extrusion.
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10. Slide guide roller assemblies out from under the extrusion and deck belt.
11. Using a 9/16” socket, remove the two (2) bolts holding front roller cover to
the motor plate. This will allow you to remove the front roller cover.
12. Using a ½” socket, loosen the ten (10) outer bolts that run through the
deck spacer (A2085), deck cross braces (A2080) and into the nut bar
(A2081) on the bottom of the deck (A2352), approximately 3-4 turns.
Only loosen these outside bolts. Do not completely remove them.
13. Once the deck is free, remove the left front roller bolt using a 9/16”
wrench. Then remove the right front roller bolt. Rotate the right side of
the front roller (A1244) under the belt (P1246). This will loosen the timing
belt (P1247) and make it easy to slide off. The front roller will now be
rotated almost 90° from its original position. Pul l out the front roller.
14. Clean off any wax built up on the front roller with a straight edge.
15. The rear roller (A1245) will slide out the back of the treadmill. Repeat
cleaning procedure.
16. Slide out deck assembly and belt out the back of the treadmill.
17. Remove the four (4) urethane springs (P2086).
18. Flip the deck over if it hasn’t been done before. If the deck has been
flipped once before, install new deck. Do not lose the nylon sleeves
(P2087) on the locating pins (A2108) near the corners of the deck.
19. Reinstall the urethane springs.
20. Slide belt and deck back in place in the side frames.
21. Install the 1” rubber caps (P1487) on rear roller.
22. With the running belt slid over, install the rear roller into the extrusions,
making sure the threads for the tension bolts can be seen.
23. Position each tension bracket over the lips of the extrusion from which
they were removed. With a mallet, tap the bracket onto lips of the
extrusion. Do the same to both sides.
24. Insert the rear roller tension bolt through each tension bracket and into the
rear roller. When threads catch, turn each bolt approximately 3-4 turns.
25. Push each end cap bracket back into the appropriate extrusion.
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26. Line up the holes in the end cap bracket with the holes in the extrusions
and welded tabs of the rear cross member.
27. Insert the bolts for the foot pads and foot spacers on each side. This bolt
will run from inside the extrusion on down through hole.
28. Slide spacer onto each bolt followed by the flat washer and foot pad.
Place 9/16” wrench onto bolt head and turn foot pad clockwise until tight.
29. Insert the bolts that run up through the welded tabs and the end cap
brackets. Put a 5/16”-18 nylock nut on each bolt and tighten down. Insert
the front roller the reverse of the way you removed it. Position the roller
with motor belt in place and install the two (2) front roller bolts. The right
side has a roller spacer (A1401) that goes between the front roller and
frame.
30. Slide deck to where it is ½” to 1” from the front roller. Tighten the ten (10)
outer bolts that run through the cross braces on the bottom of the deck.
31. Install the front roller cover. Only insert and tighten the bolts going
through the front roller cover and into the motor plate.
32. Install the two (2) guide rollers. Hook the roller housing inside the deck
belt and place the flat side of the guide roller bracket on the innermost lip
of the extrusion.
33. Start the HCS 5/16 – 18 X ¾” and 5/16” lock washer up through the front
roller cover, extrusion and the guide roller bracket.
34. Make sure the bracket is perpendicular (90° angle) to the extrusion.
Tighten bracket in place.
35. Install rear roller tensioning socket head cap screws. There is one (1) on
each side.
36. Install the two (2) end caps, and the two (2) footpads.
37. Tension the running belt by tightening the rear roller tensioning socket
head cap screws equally.
38. Plug the treadmill power cord into the electrical outlet.
39. Turn the unit on and press START to allow the unit to return to 0% grade.
40. Tension the running belt according to the “Running Belt Tracking and
Tensioning” procedure (Page 34).
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D. Belt Replacement Walk-In Procedure
1. Once the deck has been flipped or replaced and a new belt has been
installed, the combination must be “walked in”. The “walk in” in designed
to distribute the phenolic wax on the deck evenly into the belt fibers and
across the deck. Not “walking in” a belt can cause chunks of wax to break
loose from the deck and embed on the rollers causing a thumping noise
and leaving an area of the deck with no wax which will cause a friction
problem. Failure to “walk in” the combination may result in damage
to the deck.
2. Start the treadmill and increase the speed to 10 MPH and let it run for five
(5) to ten (10) minutes to warm up the new belt.
3. Once the five (5) minutes has been completed, decrease the speed to 1.5
MPH.
4. While facing the display, step onto left side of the belt, approximately ten
(10) to twelve (12) inches from the rear, and walk in a snakelike pattern
until you reach the front of walking surface. (Pattern is shown above.)
5. You may reverse the snakelike pattern until reaching the rear or step off
and repeat the first pattern.
6. “Walk in” must be performed for ten (10) minutes.
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E. Guide Roller Replacement
1. Elevate the treadmill to 15% grade.
2. Unplug treadmill from wall outlet. Treadmill will remain elevated.
3. Locate the guide roller assemblies. There is one (1) guide roller assembly
(P1242) on the bottom side of each extrusion.
4. Using a ½” wrench, remove the bolt with lock washer that runs up through
the extrusion and up into the guide roller bracket.
5. Slide guide roller assembly from under extrusion and running belt (P1246).
6. To install the new guide roller assembly, hook the roller housing inside the
deck belt and place the flat side of the guide roller bracket on the
innermost lip of the extrusion.
7. Start the HCS 5/16 – 18 X ¾” bolt and 5/16” lock washer up through the
extrusion and the guide roller bracket.
8. Make sure the bracket is perpendicular (90° angle) to the extrusion.
Tighten bracket in place.
6. With a 9/16” wrench, remove the left side, front roller bolt. Loosen the
right side, front roller bolt far enough to disengage the bolt threads from
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the roller threads. Rotate the right side of the front roller (A1244) under
the deck and running belt. This will loosen the motor’s timing belt on the
left side of the front roller and make it easy to slide off. Rotate the front
roller approximately 90º from its original position. Pull the roller out from
under the treadmill.
7. Install new front roller by reversing step 6.
8. Install guide rollers.
9. Turn each rear roller tension bolt clockwise, approximately 6-10 turns.
10. Tension running belt according to the “Running Belt Tracking and
Tensioning” procedure (Page 34).
6. With a 9/16” wrench, remove the left side, front roller bolt. Loosen the
right side, front roller bolt far enough to disengage the bolt threads from
the roller threads. Rotate the right side of the front roller (A1244) under
the deck and running belt. This will loosen the motor belt on the left side
of the front roller and make it easy to slide off. Rotate the front roller
approximately 90º from its original position. Pull the roller out from under
the treadmill.
7. Place a solid object under the rear cross member (P1513) of the treadmill
(i.e. tool box, stool, cinder block, etc.).
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8. Remove the rear feet. Using a 9/16” wrench, hold the head of the bolt that
runs through the center of the foot spacer (A1249) and into the foot pad
(P1250). Rotate the foot pad until it unthreads completely from the bolt.
Repeat this procedure for the other foot removal.
9. Using a ½” wrench and socket, remove the bolts that hold the end cap
brackets to the welded tabs of the rear cross member.
10. Pull end caps out of the extrusions.
11. Remove both rear roller tension bolts and the tension brackets (P1439).
12. Slide the running belt to one side or the other.
13. Pull the rear roller (A1245) out of the treadmill.
14. Install the two (2) 1” rubber caps (P1487) from old roller onto new roller.
15. With the running belt slid over, install the new rear roller into the
extrusions, making sure the threads for the tension bolts can be seen.
16. Position each tension bracket over the lips of the extrusion from which
they were removed. With a mallet, tap the bracket onto lips of the
extrusion. Do the same to both sides.
17. Insert the rear roller tension bolt through each bracket and into the rear
roller. Once the threads catch, turn each bolt approximately 3-4 turns.
18. Push each end cap bracket back into the appropriate extrusion.
19. Line up the holes in the end cap bracket with the holes in the extrusions
and welded tabs of the rear cross member.
20. Insert the bolts for the foot pads and spacers on each side. This bolt will
run from inside the extrusion on down through hole.
21. Slide spacer onto each bolt followed by the flat washer and foot pad.
Place 9/16” wrench onto bolt head and turn foot pad clockwise until tight.
22. Insert each of the bolts that run up through the welded tabs and the end
cap brackets. Put a 5/16”-18 nylock nut on each bolt and tighten down.
23. Install front roller by laying it inside the running belt at a 90º angle. Once
the pulley of the front roller clears the deck, slide the drive belt over it.
Proceed to rotate roller until it gets to its normal mounting position. Place
the front roller spacer between front roller and the extrusion. Install and
tighten the 3/8” bolt.
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24. Mount the guide rollers back into their normal positions.
25. Tension the running belt according to the “Running Belt Tracking and
Tensioning” procedure (Page 34).
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motor pulley, one (1) of the tension bolts will need to be tightened. If the
belt is riding against the inside lip of the motor pulley, one (1) of the
tension bolts will need to be loosened. Each time an adjustment is made,
the flywheel needs to be spun to allow the belt to seat.
15. Once aligned the timing belt should appear taut. Tighten the bolts and
nuts at the base of the motor. The timing belt should have approximately
3/8” travel when pushed down and then pulled up on. If this is too tight,
loosen motor and back tension off the tension bolt closest to the front
roller and add an equal amount to the other tension bolt. Spin the flywheel
to allow the belt to seat and retighten motor bolts and nuts. If the timing
belt is too loose, add tension to the tension bolt closest to the front roller
and reduce tension by an equal amount on the other tension bolt. Spin
the flywheel to allow the belt to seat and retighten the motor. Repeat this
procedure until the tension is correct.
16. Verify speed sensor alignment. When the flywheel is rotated, the magnet
(P1599) in the flywheel should pass the center of the speed sensor
(P1522). The speed sensor can be adjusted by moving the slotted
bracket (A1598) forward or backward until the magnet passes the center
of the speed sensor. This adjustment requires a 7/16” socket and
extension to loosen and tighten the bolt holding the speed sensor bracket
in place.
1. Elevate treadmill to 15% incline and turn off power to the unit.
2. Using a Philips screwdriver, remove the motor hood (P1252).
3. Use a 5/16” Allen wrench to turn each rear roller tension bolt,
counterclockwise, 6-10 full turns to release running belt pressure.
4. Remove the left, front roller bolt using a 9/16” wrench or socket.
5. Loosen the right, front roller bolt far enough to disengage bolt threads from
the roller threads.
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6. Press down on the right side of the front roller until it is free of the front
roller spacer (A1401).
7. Remove roller spacer. Newer models have a nylon thrust bearing (P2046)
between the spacer and the extrusion. Then pull the bolt out of the
extrusion. Newer models have an additional nylon flange bushing (P2045)
inserted into the front roller bolt hole on the outside of the right extrusion.
8. Lift the front roller back up slightly and slide to the right, into the extrusion
channel vacated by the spacer. This will create enough of a gap on the
left end of the front roller to remove your old belt.
9. Slide the old belt off the front roller pulley and the motor pulley.
10. Install your new belt around the two (2) pulleys.
11. Once the new timing belt is in place, slide the front roller to the left until the
threaded hole in the end of the roller shaft lines up with the bolt hole for
the front roller in the left extrusion.
12. Insert the bolt and lock washer through the left extrusion and into the front
roller. Thread about ¾ of the bolt into the front roller.
13. On the right side, insert the bolt through the extrusion, and nylon flange
bushing (if applicable). On the inside of the extrusion, place nylon thrust
bearing (if it was originally equipped) onto bolt followed by the spacer.
14. Line the threaded hole in the right end of front roller with the bolt coming
through the spacer.
15. Thread the bolt into roller and then tighten both front roller bolts.
16. Restore power to the unit and tension the running belt according to the
“Treadmill Running Belt Tracking and Tensioning” procedure.
17. With the power off, check the drive belt tension. There should be
approximately 3/8” travel when pressing down on top of the belt to put belt
at its lowest position between the pulley, then hooking a finger below the
belt and pulling to its highest point. If this isn’t correct, loosen the nuts at
the base of the motor and the motor tension bracket.
18. Slide motor towards the front of the treadmill until the timing belt is taut
and the motor and front roller pulley are aligned.
19. Hold the motor in this position and slowly spin the flywheel to allow belt to
seat properly on the pulleys. (If slack develops, slide motor towards the
front of unit to take up slack created when the belt seated.)
20. Once this alignment has been done and the belt is taut, use a 9/16”
wrench and ratchet with 9/16” socket to tighten the motor bolts.
21. This action should create a little play in the timing belt. Once the motor
has been locked down, snug the nut on the motor tension bracket. The
belt should have approximately 3/8” travel when pushed down and then
pulled up on. If this is too tight or too loose, loosen motor and tension nuts
49
and move motor slightly forward or backwards and retighten nuts. Repeat
this procedure until the tension is correct.
22. Verify all nuts and bolts are tightened down.
23. Restore power and test operation of the treadmill.
24. Restore and fasten motor hood in place.
6. Loosen the two (2) innermost bolts, closest to the elevation motor, on
each coupling using a 5/32” Allen wrench. Do not loosen the outer two (2)
bolts, as this is not necessary and will lengthen the time needed for this
job.
7. Slide the long shaft and coupling off the elevation motor shaft by moving
them horizontally and away from the elevation motor.
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8. Remove the three (3), elevation motor mounting bolts. Earlier elevation
motors were mounted using ¼-20 x .5 button head bolts. These require a
3/32” Allen wrench to remove bolts. Later models used ¼-20 x .5 with a
¼” lock washer. These require a 7/16” wrench to remove.
9. Slide the elevation motor horizontally out of coupling on the short shaft
side and remove from system. (Motor will slide towards left side of
treadmill, as if you were using the treadmill.)
10. Install the new elevation motor by sliding the elevation motor shaft into the
coupling on the short shaft side. Slide elevation motor until the mounting
holes on the motor line up with the mounting holes in the plate.
11. Install the three (3), elevation motor mounting bolts finger tight.
12. Pull short shaft and coupling onto motor shaft as far as it will go. The
pinion and elevation rack should line up vertically. If they do not, slide the
shaft horizontally until they do.
13. Tighten the inner bolts on short shaft coupling.
14. Slide the long shaft and coupling back onto the elevation motor shaft until
there is about 1/32” between the coupling and the elevation motor’s
gearbox casing. The pinion on the long shaft should line vertically with the
elevation rack.
15. Tighten the three (3), elevation motor mounting bolts.
16. Turn the shaft on top of the elevation motor, using a drill, until the wheel
on the short shaft side barely touches the floor. (Clockwise will raise the
wheels and counterclockwise will lower the wheels).
17. It is possible that you will have to pull the wheel on the long shaft side to
the floor by hand because the coupling is not locked in place yet.
18. Make sure racks are set using a level spot on the floor. Both wheels
should be making light contact with the floor at this point.
19. When the racks are level, tighten the inner bolts on long shaft coupling.
20. With the potentiometer gear facing you, gently turn the gear
counterclockwise until it stops. You can damage the potentiometer if you
turn it too far. Then turn the gear clockwise ¼ of a turn.
21. Mesh the potentiometer gear with the gear on the long shaft off the
elevation motor. Make sure they are properly aligned. The teeth should
be meshed together and the gears should line up with each other
vertically.
22. Reinstall and tighten the ½” bolt holding the potentiometer bracket.
23. Check all bolts for tightness and all gears for alignment, including how the
pinions align with the elevation racks. If the pinions do not align, loosen
the two (2) outermost bolts on whichever coupling does not line up. Slide
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that shaft and pinion horizontally until it does. Then re-tighten the
outermost bolts.
24. Reconnect the elevation motor and starter capacitor wires to the terminal
block.
• If you have a 4-wire elevation motor, the motor lead labeled “1” and
one (1) of the starter capacitor leads connect under the top, left screw
in the terminal block. The motor lead labeled “0” and the other starter
capacitor lead connect to the left side screw that is located second
from the top. The motor leads labeled “4” and “5” get tied together and
connect to the right side of the terminal block under the third screw
from the top.
• If you have a 3-wire elevation motor, the motor lead labeled “5” and
one (1) of the starter capacitor leads connect under the top, left screw
in the terminal block. The motor lead labeled “0” and the other starter
capacitor lead connect to the left side screw that is located second
from the top. The motor leads labeled “1” connects to the right side of
the terminal block under the third screw from the top.
25. Verify all wiring connections, including the potentiometer cable plugged
into the lower PCB.
26. Secure the elevation motor starter cap to the motor plate. This can be
done using silicone or 3M, two-sided tape on the bottom of the cap.
27. Restore power to the treadmill.
28. Calibrate the elevation using the Elevation Calibration Procedure.
29. Do an operations test on the treadmill.
30. Re-install the motor hood.
K. Potentiometer Replacement
52
6. Install the new potentiometer (P1269) onto the old bracket (P1485). To do
this step, loosen the set screw on the pinion (P1479), using a 1/16” Allen
wrench and slide the pinion off the end of the potentiometer shaft. Using a
½” wrench, remove the nut that holds the potentiometer to the mounting
bracket. Pull the old potentiometer out of the bracket and insert the new
potentiometer with the wires facing the top of the bracket. Re-install the
½” nut and tighten. Slide the pinion back onto the potentiometer shaft and
re-tighten the set screw.
7. With the potentiometer gear facing you, gently turn the gear
counterclockwise until it stops. You can damage the potentiometer if you
turn it too far. Then turn the gear clockwise ¼ of a turn.
8. Mesh the potentiometer gear with the gear on the long shaft off the
elevation motor. Make sure they are properly aligned. The teeth should
be meshed together and the gears should line up vertically.
For units equipped with a safety pan, perform the following steps:
1. Elevate the treadmill to 15% grade. Disconnect power by unplugging the
treadmill power cord from wall socket.
2. Using a ½” socket, remove bolts holding safety pan (A1446) on the bottom
of the elevation assembly.
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3. Disconnect wires running to each limit switch (P1260).
4. On the backside of the bracket that the limit switches mount to, remove
the two (2) nuts holding the limit switches in place. Remove switches.
5. Re-attach wires in the same order on the new limit switches.
6. Replace the new limit switches through the same two (2) holes that the
other switches were removed from. Make sure the two (2) legs on the
limit switches clear the elevation rack (A1508).
7. Replace the two (2) 4-40 machine nuts on the backside of the bracket.
8. Install the bolts back in the bottom of the safety pan.
9. Recalibrate the treadmill using the Elevation Calibration Procedure to
verify that the limit switches are functioning properly. This procedure is
located in the Club Mode (Pages 27-32).
For units equipped with a motor plating extending to the front of the
treadmill, perform the following steps:
1. With the treadmill at 0% elevation, turn the power switch to the off
position.
2. Using a Philips screwdriver, remove the motor hood.
3. Disconnect the 6-pin and 8-pin Telco cables from the lower PCB.
4. Disconnect the green static drain wire. This wire comes out of the hole in
the left upright and has a connector between the upright base and the
lower PCB mounting plate.
54
5. Using a ½” socket and extension, remove the four (4) bolts with washers
and the four (4) nuts with washers from the upright bases.
6. Remove the upright assembly by lifting it up over the elevation racks and
set it off to the side.
7. Disconnect wires running to each limit switch (P1260).
8. On the backside of the bracket that the limit switches mount to, remove
the two (2) nuts holding the limit switches in place. Remove switches.
9. Re-attach wires in the same order on the new limit switches.
10. Replace the new limit switches through the same two (2) holes that the
other switches were removed from. Make sure the two (2) legs on the
limit switches clear the elevation rack (A1508).
11. Replace the two (2) 4-40 machine nuts on the backside of the bracket.
12. Set the upright assembly back in place. Make sure not to catch the
wires on the elevation racks.
13. Reinstall and tighten the bolts, washers, and nuts to secure the uprights in
place.
14. Plug the Telco cables into the lower PCB.
15. Reconnect the green static drain wire.
16. Recalibrate the treadmill using the Elevation Calibration Procedure to
verify that the limit switches are functioning properly. This procedure is
located in the Club Mode (Pages 27-32).
55
M. Upper PCB Replacement
1. Turn off the power to the unit then remove the safety magnet (S1744) from
the upper display.
2. Using a Philips screwdriver, remove the four (4) screws mounting the
upper display. They are located on the bottom side of the console.
3. Lift membrane (P1517) up to expose wiring connections on the back of the
upper PCB (P1944). Warning: Make sure you are grounded before
handling electronics. Failure to do so may result in static damage.
4. Disconnect all wires to the upper PCB by grabbing them at the connector
and pulling away for the connector on the upper PCB. While holding only
the membrane, remove the display assembly from the console.
5. Remove the eight (8) Philips screws holding upper PCB to the membrane.
6. Disconnect both ribbon cables from the membrane to the upper PCB.
7. Replace upper PCB and install the eight (8) Philips screws.
8. Reconnect the ribbon cables.
9. Reconnect the two (2), black wires from the magnetic switch (P1522).
These wires are not polarity sensitive.
10. Rest bottom of membrane on the cutout in the upper console. Tilt the top
of the membrane back toward you. This will create enough room for you
to access the wires and the back of the upper PCB.
11. Reconnect wires to the upper PCB.
• The wireless heart rate cable comes out of the left side of the console.
This component has a gray cable with the 3-pin Molex header and
connects to the horizontally mounted, 3-pin connector on the left,
backside of the upper PCB.
• If your treadmill is equipped with contact heart rate, a black cable with
a 3-pin Molex header will be coming from the left side of the console.
This plugs into the vertically mounted, 3-pin header just below the
wireless heart rate header.
• Plug the 6-pin and 8-pin gray Telco cables into the black headers on
the bottom, center part of the upper PCB.
• If your unit is equipped with Cardio Key, there will be a gray cable with
a 4-pin Molex header coming through the right side of the console.
56
This plugs into the vertically mounted header on the right, backside of
the upper PCB.
• Broadcast Vision is another optional feature of the treadmill. If your
unit is set up for this option, there is a black, 8-pin Telco cable coming
into the console housing. Its location depends on where the user
decided to mount the keypad. This plugs into the black header that
sits by itself on the right, backside of the upper PCB.
12. While making sure not to pinch any wires, lay the display down into the
console housing.
13. Insert the four (4) display screws through the console back plate and into
standoffs.
14. Snug these screws until secure. Do not heavily torque.
15. Calibrate upper display. See Software Set Up After Upper PCB
Replacement (Version 10.1-10.5). See pages 32-33.
N. Membrane Replacement
1. Turn off the power to the unit then remove the safety magnet (S1744) from
the upper display.
2. Using a Philips screwdriver, remove the four (4) screws mounting the
upper display. They are located on the bottom side of the console.
3. Lift membrane (P1517) up to expose wiring connections on the back of the
upper PCB (P1944). Warning: Make sure you are grounded before
handling electronics. Failure to do so may result in static damage.
4. Disconnect all wires to the upper PCB by grabbing them at the connector
and pulling away for the connector on the upper PCB. While holding only
the membrane, remove the display assembly from the console.
5. Remove the eight (8) Philips screws holding upper PCB to the membrane.
6. Disconnect both ribbon cables from the membrane to the upper PCB.
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7. Remove upper PCB.
8. Using a 1/16” Allen wrench, remove the two (2), 4-40 X ½” screws holding
the magnetic switch (P1522) in place.
9. Pull magnetic bracket (P1609) loose and reinsert on the new membrane.
10. Place the magnetic switch flat side down and start the two (2), 4-40 X ½”
screws through the slots in the switch.
11. Slide switch completely to the right and tighten screws.
12. Replace upper PCB and install the eight (8) Philips screws.
13. Reconnect the ribbon cables.
14. Rest bottom of membrane on the cutout in the upper console. Tilt the top
of the membrane back toward you. This will create enough room for you
to access the wires and the back of the upper PCB.
15. Reconnect wires to the upper PCB.
• The wireless heart rate cable comes out of the left side of the console.
This component has a gray cable with the 3-pin Molex header and
connects to the horizontally mounted, 3-pin connector on the left,
backside of the upper PCB.
• If your treadmill is equipped with contact heart rate, a black cable with
a 3-pin Molex header will be coming from the left side of the console.
This plugs into the vertically mounted, 3-pin header just below the
wireless heart rate header.
• Plug the 6-pin and 8-pin, gray Telco cables into the black headers on
the bottom, center part of the upper PCB.
• If your unit is equipped with Cardio Key, there will be a gray cable with
a 4-pin Molex header coming through the right side of the console.
This plugs into the vertically mounted header on the right, backside of
the upper PCB.
• Broadcast Vision is another optional feature of the treadmill. If your
unit is set up for this option, there is a black, 8-pin Telco cable coming
into the console housing. Its location depends on where the user
decided to mount the keypad. This plugs into the black header that
sits by itself on the right, backside of the upper PCB.
16. While making sure not to pinch any wires, lay the display down into the
console housing.
17. Insert the four (4) display screws through the console back plate and into
the standoffs.
18. Snug these screws until secure. Do not heavily torque.
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O. Wireless Heart Rate PCB Replacement
1. Turn off the power to the unit then remove the safety magnet (S1744) from
the upper display.
2. Using a Philips screwdriver, remove the four (4) screws mounting the
upper display. They are located on the bottom side of the console.
3. Lift membrane up to expose wiring connections on the back of the upper
PCB (P1944). Warning: Make sure you are grounded before handling
electronics. Failure to do so may result in static damage.
4. Disconnect all wires to the upper PCB by grabbing them at the connector.
While holding only the membrane, remove the display assembly from the
console.
5. Remove the eight (8) Philips screws holding upper PCB to the membrane.
6. Using a Philips screwdriver, remove the four (4) screws located in the
sides of the console.
7. Tilt the top of the console towards the running belt area. This will allow
you access to the wireless heart rate PCB.
8. Make sure you are grounded, i.e. use of a grounding strap, before
performing the steps below.
9. Remove the old wireless heart rate PCB, which is held in with a two-sided
foam tape on each side and a tie wrap.
10. Clean the mounting surface.
11. Secure new wireless heart rate PCB the same way the old PCB came out.
12. Run wireless heart rate cable into console. Place console into its normal
mounting position. Insert the four (4) screws through the sides of the
console until snug. Do not heavily torque.
13. While making sure not to pinch any wires, lay the display down into the
console housing.
14. Insert the four (4) display screws through the console back plate and into
the standoffs.
15. Snug these screws until secure. Do not heavily torque.
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P. Contact Heart Rate PCB Replacement
1. Turn off the power to the unit then remove the safety magnet (S1744) from
the upper display.
2. Using a Philips screwdriver, remove the four (4) screws mounting the
upper display. They are located on the bottom side of the console.
3. Lift membrane (P1517) up to expose wiring connections on the back of the
upper PCB (P1944). Warning: Make sure you are grounded before
handling electronics. Failure to do so may result in static damage.
4. Disconnect all wires to the upper PCB by grabbing them at the connector
and pulling away for the connector on the PCB. While holding only the
membrane, remove the display assembly from the console.
5. Remove the eight (8) Philips screws holding upper PCB to the membrane.
6. The contact heart rate PCB is the “black box” mounted inside the console.
Cut the tie wrap tab, which holds this in place.
7. One (1) side of the contact heart rate PCB has one (1) wire coming out of
it, which connects to the upper PCB. The other side of the contact heart
rate PCB has two (2) wires coming out of it. Follow the two (2) wires to
the point where they connect to the two (2) wires leading to the contact
grips. Disconnect both wires at that point.
8. Plug the two (2) leads from the new contact heart rate PCB into the two
(2) wires leading to the contact grips.
9. Mount the new contact heart rate PCB in position, using a 4” tie wrap.
Once secure, cut of the excess of the tie wrap.
10. While making sure not to pinch any wires, lay the display down into the
console housing.
11. Insert the four (4) display screws through console back plate and into
standoffs.
12. Snug these screws until secure. Do not heavily torque.
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• The cable from the power switch or filter (if equipped) has two (2) wires
on the newer treadmill while the older treadmills have three (3) wires.
The blue wire connects to BC4 Common, the brown wire to BC5 A/C
IN, and the green wire (on the older treadmills only) to BC9 FRAME.
• The cable from the lower PCB to the fuse block also differs. Newer
treadmills have a gray-jacketed cable with a large white, Molex header.
This plugs into the lower PCB at JP9. The older treadmills have one
(1) brown and two (2) blue wires from the terminal block to the lower
PCB. The brown wire connects to BC3 COM, the top blue wire to BC2
UP, and the bottom blue wire to BC1 DOWN.
• The elevation potentiometer cable plugs into JP1.
• The 8-pin Telco cable plugs into P2, while the 6-pin Telco plugs into P1
(label not visible).
• The speed sensor cable plugs into JP2.
• The red lead from the drive motor plugs into BC6 A1+, while the black
lead plugs into BC7 A2.
9. Double-check all connections.
10. Restore power to the treadmill.
11. Recalibrate speed following the instruction in Club Mode depending on
your software version. See Club Mode (Pages 27-32).
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VII. Assembly Drawings and Parts Replacement
62