Merchandising Mix
Merchandising Mix
Merchandising Mix
Merchandise Mix:
The breadth and depth of the products carried by retailers is called as merchandise mix.
This is also known as Product Assortment. It includes the competing brands within a
category.
Depth of Assortment: this is the variety in any one category of goods and/or services
with which a retailer is involved. It refers to the average number of SKUs (stock keeping
units) within each brand of the merchandise line. For eg, if a retailer decides to stock 10
design of shirts in 5 different sizes and 4 different colors, it makes for the depth of
assortment. A range of women’s wear , in another example can be broken down into the
following categories:
Indian wear
Western blouse
Accessories
T shirts
Formal trousers
Indian wear can again be broken down into salwar kameez, mix and match suits, ethnic
blouses, and formal evening wear. The fabric color, size, quantity per size and the total
quantity would then comprise the depth of each style
The first level of classification is the company or the retail store itself.
The next level of classification is the department followed by the various categories of
products that the retailer offers in each department.
Then comes in the sub-categories: the style, the price points and finally the SKU itself.
Developing the merchandise mix allows the retailer to segment the market and appeal
to a select group of consumers.
ZARA: Introduction
Zara is a Spanish clothing and accessories retailer based in Arteixo, Galicia. It was
founded in 1975 by Amancio Ortega and Rosalía Mera. It is a flagship chain store of
the Inditex group.
It is claimed that Zara needs just two weeks to develop a new product and get it to
stores, compared to the six-month industry average. The company also launches
around 10,000 new designs each year. Zara has resisted the industry-wide trend
towards transferring fast fashion production to low-cost countries. Perhaps it’s most
unusual strategy was its policy of zero advertising; the company preferred to invest a
percentage of revenues in opening new stores instead. This has increased the idea of
Zara as a "fashion imitator" company. Its lack of advertisement is also in contrast to
direct competitors such as United Colors of Benetton.
Zara’s Business System
Zara is the largest and most internationalized of Inditex’s chains. Zara began to move
overseas in 1990. It also began to make major investments in manufacturing logistics
and IT, including establishment of a just-in-time manufacturing system, a 130,000-
square-meter warehouse close to corporate headquarters in Arteixo, outside La Coruña,
and an advanced telecommunications system to connect headquarters and supply,
production, and sales locations. The business system that had resulted was particularly
distinctive in that Zara manufactured its most fashion-sensitive products internally.
Zara’s designers continuously tracked customer preferences and placed orders with
internal and external suppliers. Production took place in small batches, with vertical
integration into the manufacture of the most time-sensitive items. Both internal and
external production flowed into Zara’s central distribution center. Products were shipped
directly from the central distribution center to well-located, attractive stores twice a
week, eliminating the need for warehouses and keeping inventories low. Vertical
integration helped reduce the “bullwhip effect”—the tendency for fluctuations in final
demand to get amplified as they were transmitted back up the supply chain
Even more importantly, Zara was able to originate a design and have finished goods in
stores within four to five weeks in the case of entirely new designs, and two weeks for
modifications (or restocking) of existing products. In contrast, the traditional industry
model might involve cycles of up to six months for design and three months for
manufacturing. The short cycle time reduced working capital intensity and facilitated
continuous manufacture of new merchandise, even during the biannual sales periods,
letting Zara commit to the bulk of its product line for a season much later than its key
competitors. Thus, Zara undertook 35% of product design and purchases of raw
material, 40%–50% of the purchases of finished products from external suppliers, and
85% of the in-house production after the season had started, compared with only 0%–
20% in the case of traditional retailers.
Design:
Each of Zara’s three product lines—for women, men, and children—had a creative team
consisting of designers, sourcing specialists, and product development personnel. The
creative teams simultaneously worked on products for the current season by creating
constant variation, expanding on successful product items and continuing in-season
development, and on the following season and year by selecting the fabrics and product
mix that would be the basis for an initial collection. Top management stressed that
instead of being run by maestros, the design organization was very flat and focused on
careful interpretation of catwalk trends suitable for the mass market. Zara created two
basic collections each year that were phased in through the fall/winter and
spring/summer seasons, starting in July and January, respectively. Zara’s designers
attended trade fairs and ready-to-wear fashion shows in Paris, New York, London, and
Milan, referred to catalogs of luxury brand collections, and worked with store managers
to begin to develop the initial sketches for a collection close to nine months before the
start of a season. Designers then selected fabrics and other complements.
Simultaneously, the relative price at which a product would be sold was determined,
guiding further development of samples. Samples were prepared and presented to the
sourcing and product development personnel, and the selection process began. As the
collection came together, the sourcing personnel identified production requirements,
decided whether an item would be insourced or outsourced, and set a timeline to
ensure that the initial collection arrived in stores at the start of the selling season.
The process of adapting to trends and differences across markets was more
evolutionary, ran through most of the selling season, and placed greater reliance on
high-frequency information.
Frequent conversations with store managers were as important in this regard as the
sales data captured by Zara’s IT system. Other sources of information included industry
publications, TV, Internet, and film content; trend spotters who focused on venues such
as university campuses and discotheques; and even Zara’s young, fashion-conscious
staff. Product development personnel played a key role in linking the designers and the
stores, and were often from the country in which the stores they dealt with were located.
On average, several dozen items were designed each day, but only slightly more than
one-third of them actually went into production. Time permitting, very limited volumes of
new items were prepared and presented in certain key stores and produced on a larger
scale only if consumer reactions were unambiguously positive. As a result, failure rates
on new products were supposed to be only 1%, compared with an average of 10% for
the sector. Learning by doing was considered very important in achieving such
favorable outcomes. Overall, then, the responsibilities of Zara’s design teams
transcended design, narrowly defined. The teams also continuously tracked customer
preferences and used information about sales potential based, among other things, on a
consumption information system that supported detailed analysis of product life cycles,
to transmit repeat orders and new designs to internal and external suppliers. The design
teams thereby bridged merchandising and the back end of the production process.
These functions were generally organized under separate management teams at other
apparel retailers.
Distribution
Zara had its own centralized distribution system. Zara’s system consisted of an
approximately 400,000-square-meter facility located in Arteixo and much smaller
satellite centers in Argentina, Brazil, and Mexico that consolidated shipments from
Arteixo.
All of Zara’s merchandise, from internal and external suppliers, passed through the
distribution center in Arteixo, which operated on a dual-shift basis and featured a mobile
tracking system that docked hanging garments in the appropriate bar-coded area on
carousels capable of handling 45,000 folded garments per hour. As orders were
received from hand-held computers in the stores (twice a week during regular periods,
and thrice weekly during the sales season), they were checked in the distribution center
and, if a particular item was in short supply, allocation decisions were made on the
basis of historical sales levels and other considerations. Once an order had been
approved, the warehouse issued the lists that were used to organize deliveries.
Lorena Alba, Inditex’s director of logistics, regarded the warehouse as a place to move
merchandise rather than to store it. According to her, “The vast majority of clothes are in
here only a few hours,” and none ever stayed at the distribution center for more than
three days. Of course, the rapidly expanding store network demanded constant
adjustment to the sequencing and size of deliveries as well as their routing. The most
recent revamp had been in January 2002, when Zara had started to schedule
shipments by time zone. In the early morning while European store managers were still
stocktaking, the distribution center packed and shipped orders to the Americas, the
Middle East, and Asia; in the afternoon, it focused on the European stores. The
distribution center generally ran at half its rated capacity, but surges in demand,
particularly during the start of the two selling seasons in January and July, boosted
utilization rates and required the hiring of several hundred temporary workers to
complement close to 1,000 permanent employees.
Shipments from the warehouse were made twice a week to each store via third-party
delivery services, with shipments two days a week to one part of the store network and
two days a week to the other. Approximately 75% of Zara’s merchandise by weight was
shipped by truck by a third party delivery service to stores in Spain, Portugal, France,
Belgium, the United Kingdom, and parts of Germany. The remaining 25% was shipped
mainly by air via KLM and DHL from airports in Santiago de Compostela (a major
pilgrimage center in Galicia) and Porto in Portugal. Products were typically delivered
within 24–36 hours to stores located in Europe and within 24–48 hours to stores
located outside Europe. Air shipment was more expensive, but not prohibitively so.
Thus, one industry participant suggested that air freight from Spain to the Middle East
might cost 3%–5% of FOB price (compared with 1.5% for sea freight) and, along with a
1.5% landing charge, a 1% finance charge, miscellaneous expenses, and (generally) a
4% customs duty, bring the landed markup on FOB price to 12% or so. In the case of
the United States, a 20%–25% landed markup seemed a better approximation because
of tariffs of up to 12% as well as other added cost elements.
Despite Zara’s historical success at scaling up its distribution system, observers
speculated that the centralized logistics model might ultimately be subject to
diseconomies of scale—that what worked well with 1,000 stores might not work with
2,000 stores. In an attempt to increase capacity, Zara was beginning construction of a
second distribution center, at Zaragoza, northeast of Madrid.
This second major distribution facility, to be started up in summer 2003, would add
120,000 square meters of warehouse space at a cost of €88 million close to the local
airport and with direct access to the railway and road network as well.
Retailing
Merchandising
Retailing Aspects:
Zara’s stores functioned as both the company’s face to the world and as information
sources. The stores were typically located in highly visible locations, often including the
premier shopping streets in a local market (e.g., the Champs Elysées in Paris, Regent
Street in London, and Fifth Avenue in New York) and upscale shopping centers. Zara
had initially purchased many of its store sites, particularly in Spain, but had preferred
long-term leases (for 10 to 20 years) since the mid-1990s, except when purchase was
necessary to secure access to a very attractive site.
Zara actively managed its portfolio of stores. Stores were occasionally relocated in
response to the evolution of shopping districts and traffic patterns. More frequently,
older, smaller stores might be relocated as well as updated (and typically expanded) in
new, more suitable sites. The average size of the stores had gradually increased as
Zara improved the breadth and strength of its customer pull.
Thus, while the average size of Zara stores at the beginning of fiscal year 2001 was 910
square meters, the average size of the stores opened during the year was 1,376 square
meters. In addition, Zara invested more heavily and more frequently than key
competitors in refurbishing its store base, with older stores getting makeovers every
three to four years.
Zara also relied on significant centralization of store window displays and interior
presentations in using the stores to promote its market image. As the season
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progressed and product offerings evolved, ideas about consistent looks for windows
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and for interiors in terms of themes, color schemes, and product presentation were
prototyped in model window and store areas in the headquarters building in Arteixo.
jeans skirts trousers
These ideas were principally carried to the stores by regional teams of window dressers
and interior coordinators who visited each store every three weeks. But some
adaptation was permitted and even planned for in the look of a store
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zara
jeans skirts trousers
Price: Rs.3990
UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON: an introduction
HISTORY:
Benetton Group is a global fashion brand, based in Treviso, Italy. The name
comes from the Benetton family who founded the company in 1965.
Benetton Group is listed in Milan. Benetton has a network of around 6,000
stores in 120 countries. The stores are managed by independent partners
and generate a total turnover of over 2 billion euro. In 1965, Luciano
Benetton, the eldest of four children, was a 30-year-old salesman in Treviso.
He saw a market for colourful clothes, and sold a younger brother's bicycle in
order to buy his first second-hand knitting machine. His initial small
collection of sweaters received a positive response in local stores in the
Veneto region, and soon after he asked his sister and two younger brothers,
Gilberto and Carlo, to join him. In 1965, the entity known as the "Benetton
Group" is formed.
In 1966, the Benettons opened their first store in Belluno and three years
after in Paris,
with Luciano as chairman, his brother Gilberto in charge of administration,
their younger brother Carlo running production, and Giuliana as a chief
designer.
Today, the Benetton Group is present in 120 countries around the world. Its
core business is fashion apparel: a group with a strong Italian character
whose style, quality and passion are clearly seen in its brands, the casual
United Colors of Benetton, the glamour oriented Sisley, the leisurewear
brand Playlife. The Group produces over 150 million garments every year. Its
network of around 6,000 contemporary stores around the world, offers high
quality customer services and generates a total turnover of over 2 billion
euro.
Design:
A staff of 300 designers from all over the world creates the collections for the
casual United Colors of Benetton. The design team is also engaged in
researching new materials and creating new lines for different targets from
children, men and women to expectant mothers, offering them not only
practical and modern styles but also maximum comfort.
The result is the latest trends in design and a rich output of many models a
year which are realized with computer assisted design systems fully
integrated with the rest of the company's production phases.
Production:
Consistently high quality is one of the fundamental characteristics of the
Benetton production process from the raw materials to the finished garment.
A constant commitment to innovation, a crucial factor for development, has
always
characterized the Group’s business organization, from communication to IT,
from research into new materials to integrated logistics. Special attention is
given to innovation in production, where all systems and equipment are
constantly renewed.
The Benetton production system, co-ordinated by a high-tech facility at
Castrette (Italy)
is capable of turning out over 150 million garments every year.
Logistics:
Benetton has direct control of the logistics phase for both own manufactured
and sourced products, and has invested in modelling, organization, and
automation of logistic processes in order to completely integrate the entire
production cycle, from client orders, to packing and delivery.
Merchandise Mix:
The breadth and depth of the products carried by retailers is called as
merchandise mix.
This is also known as Product Assortment.
Accessories:
The Autumn/Winter 2010-11 United Colors of Benetton accessories and
footwear
collection explores new frontiers of in terms of shape, material and colour.
LIFESTYLE:
Verde.Rosso.Giallo.Blu.United (fragrances) :
Benetton is colour: colour celebrating the diversity of the world, colour
speaking to every
culture, colour as a universal means of communication. Colour as passion, as
instinct, as something to which we all share the same spontaneous human
response.
Like colour, fragrance is a universal language, communicating through
intuition, emotion
and evocation. Now colour and fragrance come together in a collection of
scents inspired by Benetton's legacy – a legacy of creativity, universality and
youthfulness, with colour at its heart. A collection of four perfumes
representing an homage to Benetton's history and presence, inspired by the
iconic colours and the wool stitch - timeless elements of the brand's DNA.
Adult Eyewear:
Glamour and originality distinguish United Colors of Benetton eyewear. A
wide range of
frames with all the colour, energy and comfort you would expect from
Benetton.
Adult Sunglasses:
The United Colors of Benetton sunglasses are coloured according to tradition:
trendy but without going to extremes. It is a collection with wrap-around
frames and shaded lenses for unique and unmistakeable proposals.
Return Policy:
Unworn, full priced merchandise with tags attached and accompanied by the
original
receipt can be exchanged within 14 days at the store of purchase. There will
be no refunds or store credit. All sale merchandise is final sale. For hygenic
reasons all sale of underwear and inner garment are final, returns or
exchange of these items will not be permitted. Payments made by Credit
Card, will receive the applicable amount credited to the card account within
14 working days .
Retailing Aspects: