Builders Method
Builders Method
Hello! My name is Johnny and I have been designing and building domes since
2015. I won't bore you with dome theory or anything like that, this is just the
nitty gritty steps you need to build a gorgeous dome with beautiful joinery, and
do it right the first time!
Check out this step by step video I made to help you visualize the process, you
can follow along with this printed version of the method!
https://youtu.be/Sl9fEp-27EM
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Each face of a dome is made into a panel.
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We can make these panels in the shop,
cover them, and do 90% of the finish work
before ever transporting them to site.
Johnny Bayles
802 380 9184
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Golden Trillium
Geodesics LLC
2022
Method: Finish and Bevel
If you are ripping wider boards down before splitting them into struts, IE ripping a
2x6 down to a 2x3, do that first, then apply finish. This is an advantage if you cannot
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find straight 2x3 stock, which is likely. Your material being straight is very important.
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Step 2: Rip your bevel angle
It is absolutely critical that the bevel angle remain as accurate as possible. A
digital angle finder is your friend. At this point it should be noted that if the any of
the other dimensions of your strut are different from the plan, that is ok.
As long as all your struts are consistent, you can adjust your jig to fit your strut
dimensions. However, the bevel angle itself must be accurate to the plans.
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Method: Bevel and Jig
Once you have set your saw blade to the proper angle, take a scrap piece the
same dimension as the stock you are going to rip. If you can, mark the end of the
board with the prescribed angle intersecting the center. Set the fence in such a way
that you make a cut, then flip the off-cut 180 degrees and send it back through the
saw, cutting off just a tiny bit more.
This ensures that you are maximizing material usage and getting an exact
replication of dimensions across all struts. It's better to have slightly smaller struts
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that are consistent than thicker struts that don't exactly match.
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If it helps, you can cut your struts down to size before ripping them. For
example, if your struts will be less than 4' and you have 8' boards, you can cut them in
half to make running them through the table saw easier. BE CAREFUL - don't cut them
too short. Figure out how many struts you will need and set the lumber aside ahead of
time.
Step 3: Make a jig
This is the most important part of the dome building process, but it is very
simple. Take a piece of plywood, preferably 3/4" thick or more to prevent warping, a
little bigger than your prescribed panel size, using height and width.
Take a straight edge or chalk box and mark a line along the bottom of your
plywood. Make two marks on the line that are the length of the bottom of your panel
apart. Using a thin piece of wood as a compass, set a nail or screw in one end and
then another the length of the side of your panel apart.
Using the two bottom marks, set one nail of your compass on a mark and scratch
a line with the other nail as the compass arcs. Then place the compass on the other
mark and repeat the process. Where those two scratches intersect should be the third
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vertex of your triangle. From here you can check your measurements from each point.
If it checks out, connect the dots. This is the outside dimension of your panel. While
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fabricating the panels, nothing should protrude inside or outside of these lines.
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Method: Jig
Working one side at a time, take your strut material and set it wide side down,
bevel facing out, on the inside of the lines you marked. Clamp the strut to your jig
on this line, holding in place. Using a straight scrap piece of wood (3/4" X 1 1/2"
plywood works great), screw a rail down to the jig that butts up against your strut
material. Secure it well.
Unclamp your strut and repeat the process on all three sides. You should be able
to push your strut against the rail and the strut will "split" the line you made.
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Bevel out, wide side down
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Method: Jig and Initial Miters
Step 4: Initial Miters
The next step is to cut your initial miters. These are the cuts that butt into the
adjoining strut. Take care to cut them the right direction, and cut as little off the end
as possible. The angles will be listed in the Panel Dimensions page of the plans.
The excess length of the strut on the other end will overhang the jig for now.
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will typically be two different angles
for each panel. Multiply the amount of
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panels you need by 3 to get your total
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struts. Cut 2/3 of them at the bottom
angle, 1/3 at the top angle. Label
them if necessary.
Initial Miter
Compound © Copyright
Miter Golden Trillium
to be cut Geodesics LLC
later 2022
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Method: Final Miters
Step 5: Final (compound) Miters
Once all your initial miters are cut, it's time to make the final cut on your strut.
Because it terminates at the end of the intersecting strut, it is a compound bevel.
This just means that it has a miter and a bevel. It might sound intimidating but there
are a few simple ways we can tackle this.
The most simple, but time consuming method, is with a hand saw. You butt the
struts together on your jig, counter-sink and fasten them together. Using clamps to
hold struts to the rails helps. Then you can carefully cut the excess off each strut with
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the handsaw, following not only the bevel of the intersecting strut but the angle of
the miter as well.
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If this sounds difficult, don't worry. After a handful of cuts you'll be flying
through it. It's actually pretty Zen. I have seen it done similarly with a circular saw.
However, my preferred
method is to make this final
Flush Cut cut with a miter saw. It can
be done with a single bevel
miter saw but is best with a
dual bevel saw, which means
the saw bevels left and right.
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Counter Sink
2022
And Fasten Excess that was
just hanging off
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Method: Final Miters
In order to achieve the final cut with a miter saw, you will want to clamp all
struts to the jig without fastening them. Make a pencil mark on the side that the
intersecting strut is butting into (for the bevel) and make a mark on top of the
selected strut (for the miter).
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appropriate miter
(according to the plans)
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Mark inside this corner
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as well as the bevel
angle described on the
plans. Mark this line
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Method: Jig - Half Panel
Repeat these steps for every strut, as they are each unique. Remember that you
have all the info you need for the angles in the plan. Be sure to keep the struts
organized, labeling them as you go if you feel the need. As you build the panels, you
can flip an assembled panel over sideways and put it back on the jig. If there are
significant gaps, you may need to adjust your jig.
The panel making process is similar for the partial or half panels usually required
for doorways and base panels. Whatever panel they are a partial of, you can mark the
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dimensions on the existing jig and cut space for the dividing struts to go.
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Partial panels tend to have angles a little more difficult to cut. Since there are
usually also fewer to make, I usually use a handsaw to do the final cut.
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Center Strut 2022
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Method: Windows
Step 6: Windows
For a window opening you simply make one panel extra for each window you
want. There should be some already be included in your plan count. On the panel
where the window will go, leave the cover material off, and attach the covered
window frame with two small hinges.
A lateral framing member can be added to the window to support a gas filled
piston that will serve to hold the window open.
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Lateral Framing Member
After Dome assembly, flash this seam with tape
Gas Piston
These are the sections we are able to cover in one piece without wrinkling or
folding the cover material. Pentagons and hexagons are shown.
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Clamp and screw
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where the arrows
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are. Get as close
as you can to the
corner.
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When pre-assembling panels before covering, the panels are arrayed so that the Golden Trillium
"bottoms" (the longest side) are on the outside. With hexagon panels, because they Geodesics LLC
2022
are so close to being equilateral, it's helpful to mark the bottom during assembly. Use
clamps and be sure they are right on before screwing them together.
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Method: Covering
Covering with film takes some practice. When you're first starting I suggest
putting only a handful of staples in each side until you get in the zone. It will
make it easier when you have to inevitably tear some out and tighten something
here or there.
Here is a general rule of what order to staple the film
in, pulling tight to the sequential number.
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4 6
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2
3 5
Film is stapled on the beveled edge, so that when the panels come together, the stapled
seem is hidden. So make sure the section of cover material you are stretching overhangs the panels © Copyright
by a few inches. Golden Trillium
Geodesics LLC
2022
Single layer poly tends to stretch better when its warm. I tend not to use it due to its fragility
though. Instead, I use a woven poly film. It has more of a tarpaulin texture and isn't as elastic.
Good for stretching over frames in the cold. 11
Method: Base Sections
Step 8: Base Sections
Depending on the geometry of your dome, you will have beveled or non-
beveled base sections. Typically it is easiest to assemble the base panels and the
base sections, lay them out on your site, double check measurements, stake them
down (even temporarily), and then proceed to assemble the rest of the panels.
Do-Deca-Dome
Base Panel/Section
5/8 Division
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Bucky Ball
Base Panel/Section
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Center
Strut of
Half Panel is
Un-Beveled Full Panel
Intersects
With Base,
Retains
Normal
Bevel
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5/8 Division
Bucky Ball
Shown
I would suggest putting in the minimum amount of screws until the whole dome is
assembled, in case you need to go back and adjust. These structures are pretty
flexible until they are complete, so feel free to use that to your advantage. However,
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be aware that it may not be a good idea to assemble them in windy conditions. Golden Trillium
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This is a great time to put silicone caulk or gasket material between your frames as
you build the dome for an extra layer of water tightness!
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Method: Seam Tape and Anchors
Step 10: Hang the door and Tape the Seams
It's useful to stake the door card/door posts apart the correct distance before
hanging the door to ensure a good fit. Using shims, prop the door up the appropriate
amount and fasten the hinges to the door card/door post.
Tape the open seams, where the panel sections came together. Make sure the
surfaces where tape is to be applied is clean and dry! Start with bottom seams and
work your way up, lapping the top seams over the bottom ones.
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Step 11: Anchoring the Dome
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There are many ways to anchor your dome, depending on your site. If you're
dome is sitting on gravel or earth, my preferred way is to use a series of 3' long
sections of rebar as a stake, pounded in at a 20-30 degree angle, and attached to
the base section with metal strapping.
Once the dome is anchored, congratulations! You just built a geodesic dome!
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2022
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Additional Resources
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Please send any questions, feedback or project photos to [email protected]
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Thank you for your support!
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2022
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