Printed CNC Brutus

By Alex Holweger
Rev C
Before we begin:
I want to thank you for choosing to embark on this journey! I started this project as an experiment to see how far you can take a mainly 3D printed CNC
router with inexpensive components, the result is hopefully what you will soon enjoy!

Please read and be sure you understand the instructions before you begin building Brutus.

Now for some boring stuff (I know, I know). The tools you will be using to assemble Brutus may be sharp or very hot, please exercise caution while using
them and wear appropriate attire to protect yourself. Components used on the machine may have dangerous voltages applied to them, be careful
around them and only work on the electronics while the machine is unpowered and the power source is disconnected from it. The machine can move in
unexpected ways, please keep yourself and others clear of the machine while it is in operation to avoid potential injury. The cutting tools you may be
using in the machine can be extremely sharp, please keep yourself and any loose items or clothing away from the spindle while it is in operation and
handle them with care when installing or removing them from the spindle. Eye and ear protection is recommended while using the machine, the
machining process can be loud and throw debris while in operation.

Before beginning your prints be sure your printer is well calibrated and square. You can use a calibration cube checked with calipers or prints like this or
this to verify.

Ryan at V1 Engineering has some amazing documentation on the basics of milling and control as well as potential control board options. I recommend
checking out https://docs.v1engineering.com/ for any information outside the scope of this manual. Ryan has also made some incredible machines
that you should check out. Without him and his encouragement, Brutus would have just stayed a personal shop experiment.

You can also find me on the V1 Engineering Forums as Brute71 should you have any questions or need clarification on any of the steps ahead!
Bill of materials:
● Qty 8 M8x30mm Hex Head Bolt ● Qty 35 M3 Short Heat Set Insert
● Qty 4 M8x35mm Hex Head Bolt ● Qty 5 M4 Short Heat Set Insert
● Qty 8 M8x40mm Cap or Hex Head Screw ● Qty 18 M5 Long Heat Set Insert
● Qty 6 M8x50mm Cap or Hex Head Screw ● Qty 2 MGN12 Rail 200mm Length
● Qty 28 M8 Washer ● Qty 4 MGN12H Linear Bearing (Light Preload Recommended)
● Qty 26 M8 Lock Nut ● Qty 27 608 Ball Bearing
● Qty 2 M6x25mm Button Head Screw ● Qty 4 GT2 16T Pulley 2mm Pitch 10mm Belt Width
● Qty 4 M6x45mm Button Head Screw ● Qty 8 GT2 20T Smooth Idler 5mm ID 10mm Belt Width
● Qty 4 M6x75mm Cap Head Screw ● GT2 10mm Width 2mm Pitch Belt
● Qty 10 M6 Lock Nut ● Qty 1 M8 Brass Lead Screw Nut
● Qty 18 M5x20mm Cap Head Screw ● Qty 1 M8 TR8 4 start Lead Screw 175~180mm Length
● Qty 2 M5x25mm Cap Head Screw (30mm ● Qty 1 5mm to 8mm Spring Coupler
length optional) ● Qty 5 Nema 17 Stepper Motor 0.5Nm+
● Qty 35 M5x30mm Cap Head Screw ● Qty 4 Omron SS-3GL13PT Switch
● Qty 15 M5 Washer ● ¼” -or- 6mm OD Nylon Air Line
● Qty 37 M5 Lock Nut For Inch Version
● Qty 3 M4x10mm Cap Head Screw ● 1.25” OD 0.12” Wall Steel Tubing
● Qty 26 M3x6mm Cap Head Screw ● 1” OD 0.08” Wall Steel Tubing
● Qty 9 M3x8mm Cap Head Screw For Metric Version:
● Qty 10 M3x10mm Cap Head Screw ● 32mm OD 3mm Wall Steel Tubing
● Qty 16 M3x16mm Cap Head Screw ● 25mm OD 2mm Wall Steel Tubing
● Qty 8 M3x20mm Cap Head Screw
● Qty 4 M3x25mm Cap Head Screw Heat Set Insert Hole Specs:
● Qty 2 M3 Lock Nut ● M3 Short - Taper: 5.23-5.05mm OAL: 3.81mm
● Qty 8 #2x0.5” Sheet Metal Screw ● M4 Short - Taper: 5.94-5.74mm OAL: 4.70mm
● M5 Long - Taper: 8.00-7.15mm OAL: 11.13mm
Printed Part List and Settings:
All parts should have 3-4 perimeters using a .4~.6mm nozzle. Suggested layer height .20mm. Grid or triangular infill suggested. Minimum X and Z bed
size 230mmx140mm. Quality PLA Pro/+ is recommended for all parts, ABS, PC, PA can also be used if desired just be sure to account for shrinkage to
maintain dimensional accuracy. Around 3kg of filament will be used with mentioned settings. Only the Upper and Lower Caps will need some form of
support, the rest can be printed without. Recommended infill percent and quantities below. Settings are identical for the metric version of parts.
● Qty 1: X Carriage - 65%+ infill ● Qty 1: Upright Cable Guide Mount - 45% infill
● Qty 1: X Stepper Mount Top - 45~65% infill ● Qty 1: Carriage Cable Guide Mount - 45% infill
● Qty 1: X Stepper Mount Base - 45~65% infill ● Qty 2: Cable Guide End - 45% infill
● Qty 1 each: Rail Mount L & R - 45~65% infill ● Qty 1: Cable Chain Mount - 45% infill
● Qty 1: Z Stepper Mount - 45~65% infill ● Qty 5*: Cable Guide - 45% infill
● Qty 1: Z End Stop Mount - 45% infill ● Qty 2*: Y Rail Support - 45% infill
● Qty 2: End Stop SW Mount - 45% infill
● Qty 1: 65mm Spindle Holder - 65%+ infill Optional Mounts
● Qty 1 each: Gantry Upright L & R - 65%+ infill ● Qty 1: Dewalt DWP611 Mount - 65%+ infill
● Qty 1 each: Lower Cap L & R - 45~65% infill ● Qty 1: Makita RT070x Mount - 65%+ infill
● Qty 1 each: Upper Cap L & R - 45~65% infill
● Qty 1 each: Belt Tensioner Lower L & R - 45~65% infill
● Qty 1 each: Belt Tensioner Upper L & R - 45~65% infill
● Qty 2: Corner Top - 45~65% infill
● Qty 2: Corner Top Mirrored - 45~65% infill
● Qty 4: Corner Bottom - 45~65% infill
● Qty 2: Corner Belt Tensioner - 45~65% infill
● Qty 2: Corner Belt Tensioner Mirrored - 45~65% infill
● Qty 2: Y End Stop SW Mount - 45% infill

* Quantity based on suggested build size, your needs may vary.

Tools Needed for Assembly:
● 13mm Wrench
● 13mm Socket
● Ratchet for above socket
● #1 Phillips Screw Driver
● 2mm/2.5mm/3mm/4mm/5mm/6mm Hex Keys or T-Handle Hex Keys
● ¼” Hex Drive 2.5mm Hex Bit
● ¼” Wrench or ¼” Hex Ratchet or ¼” Ratcheting Wrench
● 8”+ Smooth Single Cut Flat File or a flat sanding block
● Ruler or Tape Measure
● Square
● Soldering Iron
● Optional: Heat Set Insert Tips for your soldering iron
● Optional: Knife for print clean up and deburring
● Optional: Pair of 1-2-3 Blocks
Machine Sizing:
I designed this machine around a 25” by 25” work area with a ~1hp (800w) spindle in mind. This does not mean you cannot go larger/smaller for your specific needs! I do highly recommend
sticking with the recommended wall thickness to maximize your rigidity. I also do suggest using the Y Tube Supports every 12~18” of unsupported length for your Y axis to eliminate possible sag
or flexing from cutting.

Z Sizing is fixed, there is 3.5” (89mm) of clearance under the X Carriage and ~4” (100mm) of travel. You could put spacers under the corners if you needed a little bit of extra Z clearance.

For travel I would suggest adding 1.25” to your desired work area size, this is for clearance to get tools or edge finders on the edge of your material and a ⅛” gap before hitting the Uprights or
Corners on each end. Example: you want to have a 24”x24” work area, go for 25”x25”, another would be you want to work with full 24”x48” sheets, go for 25”x49” travels.

Now for some math (ugh, right?):

Y Tube Length = 10.7” + Y Travel (in inches) | Qty 2 | 1” OD -or- 25mm OD

272mm + Y Travel (in mm)

X Upper Tube Length = 8” + X Travel (in inches) | Qty 1 | 1” OD -or- 25mm OD

204mm + X Travel (in mm)

X Lower Tube Length = X Upper Tube Length + 1.25” | Qty 1 | 1.25” OD -or- 32mm OD
X Upper Tube Length + 32mm

Individual Belt Length = X/Y Travel (in inches) + 12.5” | GT2/GT3 2mm Pitch 9/10mm Width
X/Y Travel (in mm) + 318mm

Note: You will need 4 lengths of belt total. To convert your belt total to meters, multiply by .0254.
Example: Travel = 25”x48”. Individual X belt length is 25”+12.5”=37.5”. Total X belt length 2*37.5”=75”. Individual Y belt length is 48”+12.5”=60.5”. Total Y belt length 2*60.5”=121”. Total
belt length is 75”+121”=196”. Total belt length in meters is 196”*0.0254=4.978 meters.

Individual Cable Guide Tube Length = X Travel (in inches) + 1” | ¼” Nylon Air Line | Qty 2
Note: Cut it longer to start and test fit, you want a slight upward arch to the airline to make sure it curls up correctly.

Footprint:
Overall Length = Y Tube Length

Overall Width (Corner Bottom to Corner Bottom) = X Upper Tube Length + 4.6” (117mm)

Max Width (Y Stepper Motor to Cable Chain) = X Upper Tube Length + 7.5” (191mm)
Electronics:
Controller: You have a lot of options here, like a lot. My personal machine uses a slightly modified version of V1CNC Marlin FW on an Ultimachine Archim2, you can view boards he has firmware
for here if you want to see some options. Firmware changes needed will be noted later in this manual. You can also use any board that will accept GRBL, or even a full on motion controller like
Pokeys57 or Ethernet Smooth Stepper with Mach 4.

Steppers: The Nema 17 76 oz-in/0.54 Nm stepper motors have more than enough oomph for this machine since X and Y operate in pairs.

Power Supply: 12v~24v 6A+ will be sufficient, I would go with a larger power supply if you intend to run other accessories off of it.

Spindle: The current spindle mount only accommodates 65mm spindles. An 800w spindle can do a lot of work, but you can put in a 1500w spindle if you would like.

Motor Drive aka VFD: You can get these pretty inexpensive bundled with a spindle off amazon or ebay. There are also some relatively inexpensive name brand VFD’s such as the Teco
L510-101-H1-U that work excellent and lets you use a 120v 20a outlet.
 Components needed for step: Please note the
X Carriage insert orientation.
Qty 2 M3 Short Insert

Note: Inserts should be installed at or just below the

surface. Heat set inserts can push up material around
them during install, recommend using sand paper or a file
to remove pushed up material.
This end down

M3 Short Insert
 Components needed for step: Recommend dressing the surface
X Carriage with a flat file to make it as flat as
Qty 12 M8 Lock Nut possible. You do not need to
Qty 8 M8 Washer remove much material, just get rid
Qty 8 M8x30mm Hex Head Bolt of the high spots.
Qty 4 M8x35mm Hex Head Bolt
Qty 12 608 Bearing

Note: The M8 holes will be a close fit with

the bolt, if you can’t lightly tap it in you may
need to run a 5/16” or 8mm drill bit through
the hole.

After installing all of the hardware the

M8x30mm bolt connections can be
snugged up, DO NOT overtighten as damage
to print or bearing can occur. Temporarily
install the upper and lower gantry rails and
check for fit. Fit should be a light preload
with no play. If preload is present with the
nuts on the 4 M8x35mm bolts loose, tighten
nut until it just touches the washer. If play is
present, tighten upper and lower pairs of
nuts evenly until play is removed. Remove
the Upper and Lower Rails once you are
satisfied with the fit.

If the nylon in the nut does not engage the

threads on the M8x35mm bolts you may
need to use a thinner washer or remove it.

M8x35mm Hex Head Bolt

M8x30mm Hex Head Bolt

 Components needed for step: Please note the
Recommend dressing the surface insert orientation.
Rail Mount Left and Right
with a flat file to make it as flat as
Qty 18 M3 Short Insert
possible. You do not need to
Qty 2 M5 Long Insert
remove much material, just get rid
of the high spots.
Note: Inserts should be installed at or just below the
surface. Heat set inserts can push up material around
them during install, recommend using sand paper or a file
to remove pushed up material. This end down

M3 Short Insert

M3 Short Insert M5 Long Insert

 Components needed for step:
Rail Mount Left and Right
X Carriage
Qty 4 M6x75mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 4 M6x45mm Button Head Screw
Qty 2 M6x25mm Button Head Screw
Qty 6 M6 Lock Nut

Note: Leave all of the M6 screws loose

for now, they will be tightened in a later
step.

M6x45mm
Button Head
Screw

M6x75mm Cap Head Screw

M6x25mm Button Head Screw

 Components needed for step: The M4 inserts are for mounting a mist
65mm Spindle Holder M4 Short Insert coolant nozzle setup as pictured below. Qty 2
Qty 4 M3 Short Insert M4x25mm screws are needed to mount it to
the spindle holder.
Qty 2 M4 Short Insert

Note: Inserts should be installed at or just

below the surface. Heat set inserts can
push up material around them during install,
recommend using sand paper or a file to
remove pushed up material.

M3 Short Insert
Please note the
insert orientation.

This end down

 Components needed for step: Recommend dressing the surface
65mm Spindle Mount the linear bearings mount to with a
Qty 4 MGN12H Linear Bearing flat file to make it as flat as
Qty 8 M3x16mm Cap Head Screw possible. You do not need to
M3x16mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 8 M3x20mm Button Head Screw remove much material, just get rid
of the high spots.
Note: Leave the plastic insert in the linear
bearing to prevent the loss of balls. They
will be removed in a later step.

Leave the M3 screws loose for now, they

will be tightened in a later step.

I found it easiest to use a ¼” drive M2.5 hex

bit in the end of a wrench (ratcheting or
standard) to install the M3 screws.

M3x20mm Cap Head Screw

 Components needed for step:
65mm Spindle Holder
M8 Brass Lead Screw Nut
Qty 4 M3x25mm Cap Head Screw

Note: You may need to run a ⅛” drill bit

through the holes for the M3x25mm screws
as the insert may have pushed some
material in to it at the bottom.
 Components needed for step:
65mm Spindle Mount
Qty 2 MGN12 Linear Rails

Note: Use the linear rail to push the plastic

inserts out of the bearings
 Components needed for step:
65mm Spindle Holder
X Carriage
Qty 16 M3x6mm Cap Head Screw

Note: Loosely install the M3x6mm screws in

to the rails so they can still move slightly, a
small amount of blue thread lock is
suggested on each screw. Put the X
Carriage on its back then push the 65mm
Spindle Holder towards the X Carriage with
light pressure. Slide the 65mm Spindle
Holder up and down on the rails to get
everything to align. Lightly tighten the 4 end
M3x6mm screws on the rails, then evenly
tighten the screws securing the linear
bearings to the spindle holder. Finish
tightening the screws securing the linear
rails to the rail mounts. Now tighten the 4
M6x45mm cap head screws. Temporarily
install the lower 1.25” OD carriage tube then
tighten the M6x25mm cap head screws.
Test the assembly for free movement, with
the light preload bearings you should feel
some resistance but it should feel even top
to bottom. If it feels tight on one end or the
other, recheck that the rails are flat against
the rail holders and the rail holders are
sitting flat on the X carriage. Remove the
lower carriage tube when you are satisfied
with the feel.
Optional Makita RT070x or Dewalt
DWP611 Mount

The process for installing either

mount is identical to the steps for
the 65mm Spindle Mount.

Only hardware difference would be

2 less linear bearings with
associated mounting hardware and
one less M5 pinch screw.

The Z Max End Stop will also not be

used with this mount. I recommend
using a touch probe when using this
mount for Z Min homing.

The collet nut on the router when

installed as shown will be resting
against the base of the machine.
Router can be slid up to adjust for
different cutters if needed.

Either router will need to have the

power cable routed out to the left or
right to clear the Z Stepper mount at
Z Max position.
 Components needed for step: Please note the
Z Stepper Mount insert orientation.
Qty 2 M3 Short Insert

Note: Inserts should be installed at or just below the

surface. Heat set inserts can push up material around
them during install, recommend using sand paper or a file
to remove pushed up material.
This end down
 Components needed for step:
Z Stepper Mount
Qty 1 Nema 17 Stepper Motor
Qty 1 M8 Lead Screw
Qty 1 5mm to 8mm Spring Coupler
M3x8mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 4 M3x8mm Cap Head Bolt
Qty 1 608 Bearing
8x14mm Shims 0.5~1mm thickness
Shim Here

Note: Install the bearing in the stepper

mount first and make sure it is fully seated,
you will see a little bit of the outer race
protruding above the cutout, do not force it
any further. Seat the lead screw fully in the
coupler, then slide in the stepper motor
shaft until it seats against the lead screw.
Tighten the set screws in the coupler for
attaching it to the stepper motor shaft,
recommend using blue thread lock. Remove
the lead screw from the coupler for now.
Use some 8x14mm shims between the 608
bearing and the coupler to take up any gap,
you will need 2~5mm worth of shims. Once
shimmed, install the lead screw securing
the couplers set screws with thread lock.
Install and tighten the screws securing the
stepper motor to the mount.
 Components needed for step:
X Carriage Assembly
Z Stepper Mount Assembly
Z End Stop Mount
Qty 2 M5x20mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 1 M5 Washer

Note: Do not fully tighten the M5x20mm

Cap Head Screws yet. Check that the Z
Stepper Mount seats flush against the top
and back of the Rail Mounts, file or sand the
inside mounting faces of the Z Stepper
Mount as needed. The profiles of the Z
Stepper Mount and Rail Mounts should
match if correct. The Z End Stop Mount face
should be parallel to the top face of the
linear rail.

These surfaces
should be coplanar
 Components needed for step:
X Carriage Assembly
Carriage Cable Guide Mount*
Qty 2 M3x8mm Cap Head Screw M3x8mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 4 M3x6mm Button Head Screw

Note: After installing the M3x8mm Cap

Head Screws you can tighten the M5x20mm
Cap Head Screws from the previous step.

*Use the Carriage Cable Guide Mount M3x6mm Cap Head Screw
Mirrored if you wish the cable guide to go to
the Right Gantry Upright.
Components needed for step:
X Carriage Assembly
Qty 1 M5x25mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 2 M5 Washer M5x25mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 1 M5 Lock Nut Note: M5x30mm will work here,
will just stick out further.
 Components needed for step:
X Stepper Mount Top
X Stepper Mount Base
Qty 4 M5x30mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 4 M5 Washer
Qty 4 M5 Lock Nut
Qty 4 GT2 20T Smooth Idler
GT2 2mm Pitch 10mm Wide Belt

Note: Run the 2 X axis belt sections through

the base before installing the idlers and top,
the belt teeth will face outwards. Set the
idlers in place then pull a loop in the belts as
shown in the diagram. You can now install
the top and screws. DO NOT overtighten the
M5x30mm screws, this will cause the idler
bearings to bind! Tighten the M5x30mm
bolts until they just seat against the washer
then loosen ⅛ turn. You should be able to
still wiggle the washer around on the bolt.
 Components needed for step:
X Stepper Mount Assembly
Qty 2 Nema 17 Stepper Motor
Qty 2 GT2 16T Pulley
Qty 8 M3x16mm Button Head Screw

Note: Make sure the pulley aligns with the

idlers before securing the stepper motors
to the mount. Also make sure the pulley
winds up inside the belt loop formed in the
previous step.
Components needed for step:
X Stepper Mount Assembly
X Carriage Assembly
Qty 4 M6 Lock Nut
 Components needed for step:
X Carriage Assembly
Qty 3 M5x30mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 6 M5 Washer
Qty 3 M5 Lock Nut

Note: Just thread the M5 screws in enough

to engage the nylon in the lock nut. These
will be tightened when the spindle is
installed.
 Components needed for step:
X Carriage Assembly
End Stop SW Mount
Qty 2 M3x10mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 2 M3 Lock Nut
Qty 2 #2x0.5” Sheet Metal Screw
Qty 1 Omron SS-3GL13PT Switch

Note: Move the spindle holder up until it

contacts the Z Stepper Mount then move
down about 1mm or 1/16”. Slide the End
Stop SW Mount until the switch actuates.
Tighten the M3x10mm screws to secure the
position of the end stop sw mount. Your Z
Max end stop is now set.
 Components needed for step:
Finished X Carriage Assembly
Your Preferred Beverage

Note: X Carriage Assembly is now done!

Take a refreshing sip of your preferred
beverage and a short break, you have
earned it!
 Components needed for step: Please note the
Gantry Upright L & R insert orientation.
Qty 16 M5 Long Insert
Qty 2 M3 Short Insert

Note: Inserts should be installed at or just

below the surface. Heat set inserts can
push up material around them during install,
recommend using sand paper or a file to This end down
remove pushed up material.

Repeat step for the other Gantry Upright.

The M3 Short Inserts only need to be

installed in the side you wish to mount the X
end stop to. On the L side the end stop
would be X Min, R side would be X Max. M3 Short Insert

M5 Long Insert
 Components needed for step: Please note the
Gantry Upright L or R insert orientation.
Qty 3 M4 Short Insert
Qty 3 M3 Short Insert

Note: Inserts should be installed at or just

M3 Short Insert
below the surface. Heat set inserts can
push up material around them during install,
recommend using sand paper or a file to This end down
remove pushed up material.

This step only needs to be performed on the

side you wish your wiring to run via the
cable guide and from the machine via the
cable chain.

M4 Short Insert
 Components needed for step:
Gantry Upright L & R
Qty 6 M8x50mm Cap/Hex Head Screw
Qty 8 M8x40mm Cap/Hex Head Screw
Qty 14 M5 Lock Nut M8x40mm Cap/Hex Head Screw
Qty 20 M5 Washer
Qty 14 608 Ball Bearing

Note: The M8 holes will be a close fit with the

bolt, if you can’t lightly tap it in you may need
to run a 5/16” or 8mm drill bit through the
hole.

After installing all of the hardware the

M8x40mm bolt connections can be snugged
up, DO NOT overtighten as damage to print or
bearing can occur. Temporarily install the Y
rail and check for fit. Fit should be a light
preload with no play. If preload is present
with the connection of the 3 M8x50mm bolts
loose, tighten the nut until it just touches the
washer. If play is present, tighten the nuts
evenly until play is removed, suggest starting
with the center connection. Remove the Y
Rail once you are satisfied with the fit.

Repeat step for the other Gantry Upright.

M8x50mm Cap/Hex Head Screw

 Components needed for step:
Gantry Upright L & R
Qty 4 M5x30mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 4 M5 Lock Nut
Qty 4 GT2 20T Smooth Idler
GT2 2mm Pitch 10mm Width Belt

Note: The M5x30mm screws do not need to

be tight, tighten the screws until the head
bottoms out on the print then back off ⅛ of
a turn. Install the belt with the teeth facing
away from the stepper motor mount. Pull a
loop in the belt as shown in the diagram, a
small allen key or 90* oring pick will help
with this.

Repeat step for the other Gantry Upright.

 Components needed for step:
Gantry Upright L & R
Qty 8 M3x10mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 2 Nema 17 Stepper Motor
Qty 2 GT2 16T Pulley

Note: Be sure to align the pulley with the

idlers.

Repeat step for the other Gantry Upright.

 Components needed for step: Please note the
Gantry Upright L or R insert orientation.
Upright Cable Guide Mount* M3x8mm Cap Head Screw
Cable Chain Mount*
Qty 3 M3x8mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 3 M4x10mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 3 M4 Short Insert

Note: Inserts should be installed at or just This end down

below the surface. Heat set inserts can push
up material around them during install,
recommend using sand paper or a file to
remove pushed up material.

This step needs to only be performed on one

side.
M4x10mm Cap Head Screw
*If you elect to have the mounts on the Right
Gantry Upright you will need to use the
mirrored version for the Cable Chain Mount
and Upright Cable Guide Mount.

You should have a blank Cable Chain mount

.step file in your download that you can
adapt to your particular cable chain. My
pattern is for a R38 17x38mm cable chain
off ebay that has 3 slotted countersunk M4
mounting holes as shown to the right.

M4 Short Insert
 Components needed for step:
Gantry Upright L or R
End Stop SW Mount
Qty 1 Omron SS-3GL13PT Switch
Qty 2 M3x6mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 2 #2x0.5” Sheet Metal Screw

Note: This step only needs to be performed

on one of the Gantry Uprights. Left side will
act as a X Min end stop, right side will be X
Max end stop.
 Components needed for step:
Gantry Upright L & R
Upper Cap L & R
Lower Cap L & R
Qty 16 M5x20mm Cap Head Screw

Note: Leave all of the M5x20mm screws

loose for now to allow installation of the
Upper and Lower X tubes.

Repeat step for the other Gantry Upright.

 Components needed for step:
Gantry Upright L or R
Cable Guide End
Qty 1 M5x25mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 2 M5 Washer M5x25mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 1 M5 Lock Nut Note: M5x30mm will work here,
it will just stick out further.
Note: This step only needs to be performed
on one of the Gantry Uprights.
 Components needed for step:
Gantry Upright Assembly L & R
X Carriage Assembly
1” OD Upper Gantry Tube
1.25” OD Lower Gantry Tube

Note: Slide the Gantry Tubes in to the X

Carriage, then install the Gantry Uprights on
to each end. Lightly tighten the M5x20mm
screws for the Upper and Lower Caps, they
need to be loose enough to allow the
Gantry Tubes to move for alignment.
 Components needed for step:
Gantry Assembly
Qty 2 1” OD Y Tubes
Qty 4 Corner Bottom

Note: Perform this step on a flat, stable

surface.

Slide the 2 1” OD Y Tubes in to each Gantry

Upright then place the Corner Bottoms
under each end of the Y Tubes noting the
orientation.

Note the orientation

 Components needed for step: Please note the
Qty 1 Corner Top insert orientation.
Qty 1 Corner Top Mirrored M3 Short Insert
Qty 4 M3 Short Insert

Note: Inserts should be installed at or just

below the surface. Heat set inserts can
push up material around them during install,
recommend using sand paper or a file to This end down
remove pushed up material.

You will only need to put the M3 Short

Inserts in one Corner Top and one Corner
Top Mirrored. Recommend the 2 corner
tops with inserts be placed at the front of
the machine.

Please note the orientation of the corner

tops.

This face points away from the gantry

 Components needed for step:
Qty 2 Corner Top
Qty 2 Corner Top Mirrored
Qty 16 M5x30mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 16 M5 Lock Nut

Note: Tighten all of the M5x30mm screws

lightly, the Corner Assembly should still be
able to move on the Y Tube for alignment.

Repeat step for the other 3 corners.

 Components needed for step:
Qty 1 Corner Top
Qty 1 Corner Top Mirrored
Qty 4 M3x6mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 2 #2x0.5” Sheet Metal Screw
Qty 2 Omron SS-3GL13PT
Qty 2 Y End Stop SW Mount

Note: Suggested location for the Y Axis end

stops is the 2 front corners of the machine
for auto gantry squaring. Alternate location
would be both corners at the rear for the
same function at Y Max.
 Components needed for step:
Finished Main Assembly
Your Preferred Beverage

Note: Measure the spacing between

uprights, adjust the width as necessary to
get the spacing you want. Using the
carriage, move it to one upright to get it
squared vertically, then evenly tighten the
M5x20mm screws for the caps on that side
in a criss cross pattern. Repeat for the other
side. While keeping the corners pressed
against a flat surface, evenly tighten the
M5x30mm screws holding the corner tops
to the bottoms in a criss cross pattern.

You are now done assembling the main

mechanics of Brutus!Take a refreshing sip
of your preferred beverage and a short
break, you have earned it!
Mounting and Squaring the Base:

This is an example of how I assembled the machine

on to my table. Start by squaring up the back corners
of the machine to the back edge of your table. The
back side of the table is now our reference. Put one
screw in to the machines back right corner, do not
fully tighten, it still needs a little wiggle room for
alignment. Go to the front right corner, using a
square against the back table edge and a straight
edge, line up the front right corner to the straight
edge, the right Y Rail should now be perpendicular to
the back edge of the table. You can now install the
remaining 3 screws and fully tighten them in the back
right corner and install and tighten the screws in the
front right corner. Move the gantry to the back of the
machine, install one screw in to the corner bottom on
the rear left of the machine. Make sure the 2 back
corners are still even to each other in reference to
the back edge of the table.
Mounting and Squaring the base:

With the gantry still at the back of the machine use a

pair of 1-2-3 blocks and a straight edge ruler or tape
measure to measure the rail width at the rear of the
machine. Note this measurement. Using the same
measurement method, check the rail spacing at the
front of the machine. Move the free front left corner if
needed to match the measurement at the rear of the
machine. Screw down the front left corner, install the
remaining screws in the rear left corner. You can now
reference the rear corners for setting the Y end stops
and the Y Rails are parallel.

1-2-3 blocks are not necessary for this, I just found

using them easiest for getting an accurate and
consistent measurement with a rule.
Installing Belts in Tensioners:
Correct Belt fit Incorrect Belt fit
Routing for all of the tensioners is as shown.
Tensioners will only fit correctly in the housings one
way. Make sure the belt is not twisted when the
tensioners are in place.

If the belt fit in the tensioner is too loose, it can pull

out of the tensioner. The pictures to the right display
correct and incorrect fit. If loose place shims on the
smooth side of the belt and install in the tensioner. I
used steel shim stock, but small slips of printer paper
will work just as well.
 Components needed for step:
Belt Tensioner Upper L & R
Belt Tensioner Lower L & R
Qty 4 M5x30mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 4 M5 Lock Nut

Note: Install the belts as shown in the

Installing Belts in Tensioners step before
installing the tensioners in the housings.
Make sure the belt is not twisted once the
tensioner is in the housing.

The face of the tensioner should be flush

with the cap or recessed once the belt is at
tension.

The belt does not to be as tight as a guitar

string. Incorrect tension can cause
accuracy problems, binding, breakage of
parts, or significantly reduce the life of the
belt.
 Components needed for step:
Qty 2 Corner Belt Tensioner
Qty 2 Corner Belt Tensioner Mirrored
Qty 4 M5x30mm Cap Head Screw
Qty 4 M5 Lock Nut

Note: Install the belts as shown in the

Installing Belts in Tensioners step before
installing the tensioners in the housings.
Make sure the belt is not twisted once the
tensioner is in the housing.

The face of the tensioner should be flush

with the cap or recessed once the belt is at
tension.

The belt does not to be as tight as a guitar

string. Incorrect tension can cause
accuracy problems, binding, breakage of
parts, or significantly reduce the life of the
belt.
 Components needed for step:
Qty 5* Cable Guides
Qty 2 ¼” Nylon Air Line

Note: Install the air lines in to one of the

cable guide ends then install your cable
guides. You can then install the other end of
the air lines in to the opposite cable guide
end. You can fix the cable guides in place
with hot glue or e6000.

Depending on air line tolerance the fit in the

cable guide ends can either be loose or
snug. If loose you can use a little CA, hot
glue, or E6000 to secure the air lines at each
end.

At the farthest extent, the air lines should

still slightly arch away from the gantry
tubes.

The slots in the cable guides and cable

guide ends are for zip ties to cleanly secure
wiring to the guide assembly.

*Quantity will depend on overall X travel and

desired spacing between guides. I
recommend 5~6” spacing between guides.
This is my intended routing of the cable chain. Running the
wiring out the back offers a cleaner look at the front of the
machine and protects it from materials being loaded from
the front of the machine. There is a blank cable chain
mount .step file that can be modified to suit your cable
chain or to provide a mount to route it the other way. You
can pass wiring through the gantry tubes for a clean way to
route it.
Marlin Firmware:
You will use one of the V1CNC_(controller)_Dual firmwares from here to modify, make sure you get the version for your particular controller! Arduino IDE or Visual Studio with PlatformIO will be
needed to upload the changed firmware. The Marlin site has excellent documentation on Installing and Configuring Marlin.

Under Config.h

--Endstop Settings--
#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG << Comment this out as shown if only using the Z Max switch, leave commented in if you plan on using a touch probe like this
//#define USE_IMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_JMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_KMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG << Comment this out as shown if you are using the suggested X Min switch location
#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG << Uncomment this in as shown if you are using the suggested Z Max switch
//#define USE_IMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_JMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_KMAX_PLUG

// @Section Homing
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR 1 << Change this so Z homes in the positive direction (up), leave set to -1 if you are using a touch probe like this
//#define I_HOME_DIR -1
//#define J_HOME_DIR -1
//#define K_HOME_DIR -1

// @section machine

// The size of the printable area

#define X_BED_SIZE *** // 200 <<Set *** to your X Travel in MM
#define Y_BED_SIZE *** // 200 <<Set *** to your Y Travel in MM

// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.

#define Z_MAX_POS 100 <<Sets the Z Max position, make sure value is set to 100 as shown. Can be set to 120 if using the optional Makita or Dewalt router mounts.
Marlin Firmware cont.:
Under Config_adv.h

// @section extras
#define X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS
#if ENABLED(X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS)
#define INVERT_X2_VS_X_DIR // Enable if X2 direction signal is opposite to X
//#define X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS <<Comment this out as shown, otherwise one of the X motors will not stop when homing
#if ENABLED(X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS)
#define X2_USE_ENDSTOP _XMAX_
#define X2_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0
#endif
#endif

#define Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS
#if ENABLED(Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS)
#define INVERT_Y2_VS_Y_DIR // Enable if Y2 direction signal is opposite to Y
#define Y_DUAL_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(Y_DUAL_ENDSTOPS)
#define Y2_USE_ENDSTOP _YMAX_
#define Y2_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0 <<This is where you can set the Y2 stop offset for squaring the gantry during homing
#endif
#endif
Squaring the Gantry:

By this point you should have the machine wired and

able to move on its own. Make sure the steppers are
moving the correct way! Start with small 1mm
movements, if one motor is wrong you will need to
change it. Can simply flip a motor plug or change it in
firmware. Once everything is moving the right way
continue on!

Remember that reference edge from Mounting and

Squaring the Base? We will use it once again! Home
the Y Axis, measure each side from the Upright to
either the corner or your reference edge as shown. If
they don’t match you can physically adjust the end
stop position or the Y2_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT
setting in the firmware to correct it. That is it! Now
every time you turn on and home your machine the
gantry will be square!
Final Steps:

Last but not least, time to install the spindle. With the
Z Axis at the top, slide the spindle in to the holder. I
recommend spacing the spindle nose 4”~4.5” from
the spoil board so your cutter can clear things up to
the bottom of the X Carriage. Once you got that
spacing, snug up the 3 M5x30mm screws on the
spindle holder.

Now you can take another sip of your preferred

beverage, and appreciate the hard work you have
done!

Now go make some chips in the way that doesn’t

require cooking!
Postlogue:
You may have noted a dust shoe in some of the pictures, that is something I am still working on so stay tuned!