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Motorcycle Training Concepts S.M.A.R.T Rider Basic Training

Version 1.1
DanDanTheFireMan
Copyright © 2020

This is a derivative work. Original version by SociallyConstructed.Online, 2017.

Written, Edited and Designed by SociallyConstructed.Online

Samantha V. Logan & Dylan J. Marcy
All rights reserved.

No part of this book may be reproduced in any form by electronic or mechanical

means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without permission in
writing from the copyright owner.

Brought to you by:

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 What’s Covered In This Book

Welcome

A Note From Dan 5

Introduction 7

Why Being A S.M.A.R.T Rider Matters 9

Understanding Motorcycles & How They Work 11

S — Seeks, Recognizes, & Understands Hazardous Situations 27

M — Maintains Fundamental Motorcycle Skills 45

A — Acquires & Uses Personal Protective Equipment 59

R — Rescues Injured Motorcyclists with Medical Training 69

T — Teaches & Mentors Other Motorcycle Mentors 83

A Final Note 87

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 DANIEL HAS BEEN RIDING
MOTORCYCLES SINCE 2011.
Between 2007 to 2018, Dan was a full-time career
Firefighter/EMT-B, and regularly applied that
knowledge to help other motorcyclists stay safe.
Since then, he's been utilizing his YouTube
channel, DanDanTheFireman, to spread
motorcycle safety even further.

After retiring as a Firefighter/EMT-B, he became an

MSF Rider Coach, and an Accident Scene
Management Instructor to share his experiencewith
a growing community of online riders, fulltime.
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 A Note From Dan

Hello everyone!
Helping others to be safe has always been important to me. Education is the single
most important goal of my YouTube channel, the reason I packed
MotorcycleTrainingConcepts.Com full of a whole variety of free resources, and the
reason this book was created in the first place. It won’t take the place of practicing
in parking lots or getting experience out on the road, but it’s a great way to study
if you’re just trying to brush up before your first ride of the year, or you’re trying to
help out a friend before their first lesson.

Keep a lookout for “Notes From Dan” throughout the course of the book — there
will be a number of little comments I don’t think really fit into the flow of the book
itself, but are interesting or important and that I wanted to share anyways. The
book may be more serious and straightforward, but there’s no reason we can’t
have a little bit of fun as well!

Whatever your reasons for picking up this book may have been, thank you for
doing so. If it helps improve your knowledge base,

Thanks again for your support,

Dan, a.k.a. DanDanTheFireman

"Notes From Dan

Keep a lookout for Notes From Dan throughout the book! There
will be a number of little comments I don’t think fit into the flow, but
are interesting or important or that I wanted to share anyway. This
book may be more serious but there’s no reason we can’t have a
little bit of fun as well.

Additionally, this book is a part of the official Motorcycle Training

Concepts Youtube Channel! Simply click this icon any time you see
it to go to a related video about the concept discussed!

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6
 Introduction

Becoming a S.M.A.R.T. Rider

The material in this book outlines what it takes to get you on a motorcycle and be
a skilled, efficient, and S.M.A.R.T. Rider for years to come.

The point of this book isn’t to replace all of the resources you currently use, or
replace beginner classes if you’re a new rider. What it is, is an in­depth and
informative guide that can help you hone your skills, or serve as a great
introduction for friends or family you are helping to learn to ride. Especially where
state-specific laws regarding motorcycles are concerned, always do your due
diligence to make sure you’re in compliance, as Arizona’s rules aren’t always
applicable in other states (or beyond, if you’re an international fan).

The most important concept in this book is that of the S.M.A.R.T. Rider.
A S.M.A.R.T. Rider is a someone who:

— Seeks, Recognizes, & Understands Hazardous Situations

— Maintains Fundamental Motorcycle Riding Skills
— Acquires & Uses Personal Protective Equipment
— Rescues Injured Motorcyclists With Medical Training
— Teaches & Mentors Other Motorcycle Riders

Through the Motorcycle Training Concepts YouTube channel, I’ve used each
video to try and help viewers deepen their understanding of how to be a
S.M.A.R.T. Rider with the know-how to improve on-the-road safety. Each section
of this book is divided into segments to help reinforce those skills with a chapter
on motorcycle basics, and then a more in-depth explanation on each of the points
of being a S.M.A.R.T. Rider.

Whether you got into motorcycling because of the daredevils like Evel Knievil or
the a family member introduced you to riding by telling stories about a misspent
youth in search of thrills, the entire point of the DDFM and Motorcycle Training
Concepts channels are to learn how to ride safely. Doing so requires a more
serious overview of the influences that may try to get you to do something you
know could be putting your health or the health of others at risk.

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 Why Being a S.M.A.R.T. Rider Matters

Being a S.M.A.R.T. Rider matters because it’s in the best interest of you, and
everyone around you, to ride intelligently. There’s no upside to riding in an unsafe
manner, and plenty of downsides. At the end of the day, motorcycling is a hobby
for many of us. Performing that hobby in a way that’s safe and smart doesn’t
diminish the fun you can have on a bike at all. In fact, it probably increases it
substantially since you won’t have to risk your health, and can decrease the
chance of having to invest time or money into paying for your on-bike mistakes.
Why A Culture of Safety Matters
The name “DanDanTheFireman” is more than just a silly title. Firefighting, and the
culture surrounding it, is one of the perspectives that shapes how I view
motorcycling. At the end of the day, being smart with how you ride is as much a
practical decision as an intelligent one. It saves you money on hospital bills and
bike repairs. It saves you time recovering from crashes, or injuries in the future
after one too many crashes wrecked your body. It also saves those close to you
grief if you violate the law of the road and don’t walk away from that mistake.

A culture of safety prioritizes the life you have outside of motorcycling over sloppy
habits or cheap thrills. Being a S.M.A.R.T. Rider matters because you’re more than
just a motorcyclist. Riding intelligently helps you get back home in 1-piece.

Most importantly, it matters because each and every member of the DDFM Crew
matters to me. I don’t want to see obituaries of friends that could have easily
been prevented.

Some sections of this book will be educational and others more easy-going. Some
will be a bit more serious, but will be broken up with fun little “DanDanTheFireman
Comments”, asides that interrupted the flow of the book but were points I still
thought were important.

So whatever your mindset, all I ask is that you come into this handbook ready
and willing to learn.

Ready to get started?

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 UNDERSTANDING MOTORCYCLES

& How They Work

Before becoming a S.M.A.R.T. Rider, you first need to know what kind of
motorcycles are out there and how to choose the right ride!

Types of Motorcycles

One of the most fun and exciting parts of motorcycle riding is deciding what sort of
motorcycle you want to ride.

Are you riding long-distance, or just around town? For transportation, or for sport?
Will you be riding primarily on paved roads, or off-roading with your motorcycle?
Each motorcycle is specific to the job it will need to perform, so make sure you
choose the one best suited to what you need. Would you buy soccer cleats if you
were planning to run a marathon? The same principle applies here.

While motorcycles come in many different shapes and sizes, they generally share
several similarities: two wheels, motors, handlebars, and a throttle to twist.

If you’re not quite sure what sort of motorcycle is best for you, we can help you
narrow down your options. There are three broad categories of motorcycles
(street, dual purpose, and off-road), and a whole lot of different types of
motorcycles that fall under those categories:

Street
Street motorcycles are meant to be used on public roads or
highways, are the most common type of motorcycle, and are
the type of motorcycle you’ll likely want if you are just looking
for a new method of transportation. They are the most
versatile category of motorcycle, in looks and purpose. They
consist of anything from Cruisers to Scooters, are cheaper
and less fuel-consuming for short or long-distance travel, and
provide a flashy way to get around town or across country.

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 Cruiser
Cruisers are versatile, and one of the most customized
motorcycle types around. They’re popular for, well, cruising.
They’re generally not the most powerful bikes around, but
they’re comfortable and all about enjoying the journey!
Scooters
Scooters are known for their raised seat and lowered platform
for feet. They generally run on the smaller side for
motorcycles. They may not be as flashy as other motorcycles,
but they’re a popular choice because of their fuel efficiency
and the small amount of space they take up; which is a bonus
for those who live or work in places with limited parking space!
Sports Bike
A sports bike is a motorcycle that, much like a sports car, is
meant to go fast and look good while doing so. They sacrifice
some of the fuel efficiency of other street bikes and comfort
features of cruisers for sheer function, and are often some of
the best performers around.
Standard
The standard motorcycle is the original that inspired
everything else on the road. Upright seating is the most
distinctive feature for standard bikes. They’re cool, classy,
and like a slick leather jacket, they’ll always be in style.
Dual Purpose
Dual-purpose motorcycles are built to be used both on the
street, and off. They typically do not perform on the street or
off road as well as their more specialized counterparts, but
they are incredibly popular because of their ability to
competently handle most situations you’d want to ride in. The
biggest difference between dual-purpose motorcycles and
their kin are the specialized tires that can provide traction on
both paved and dirt surfaces.

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The tires aren’t the only unique thing about dual­purpose motorcycles. Installing
dual-purpose wheels on a street motorcycle would just give you a street
motorcycle with specialized wheels. There are many specializations that make
motorcycles dual-purpose. Dual-purpose motorcycles are a great choice for
anywhere where both pavement and dirt or gravel roads are encountered. They
generally include headlights, turn signals, and mirrors. While dual-purpose
motorcycles are generally street-legal in the area you purchase it in, you’ll need to
make sure you check out local laws in locations you’ll be visiting to make sure
you’ll still comply.
Adventure Touring
Dual purpose motorcycles are most popular as adventure
touring bikes. Because of their ability to go almost anywhere,
when you need a reliable bike that can handle offroading to a
campsite as easily as cruising down city streets, you need a
dual-purpose motorcycle.
Off - Road
The most important thing to note about off-road motorcycles
like motocross motorcycles is that they are not street-legal
and have to be transported via trailer or some other method
to the track or trail you intend to use it on.

These are the motorcycles seen in dirt track motocross races

or trick exhibitions. They’re also the sort of motorcycle you
would use if you wanted to explore any rough-terrain trails in
your area.

" BIKES IN ORDER OF APPEARANCE

1. KTM Duke 390 7. BMW R 1250
2. Indian Scout Bobber 8. Husqvarna TC 250
3. Piaggio Beverly 350 9. KTM 250 XS-F
4. Ducati Panigale V4 10. Beta 300RR
5. Thruxton RS 11. GasGas 280 E-Start
6. Honda XR650L
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 Dirt Bike
A dirt bike is a small bike meant specifically to be ridden over
rough terrain, as in the case of Motocross. It is generally made
of plastic and with a much smaller engine than most
regular-sized motorcycles, all the better for quickly scrambling
over dirt hills or crossing hurdles.
Enduro
An enduro motorcycle is an off-road racing motorcycle used
in enduros, which are long-distance cross-country time trial
competitions.
Trials
Trial motorcycles are small, thin-framed motorcycles meant to
be ridden while crouched or standing that are built specifically
to tackle obstacle courses.

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 Components and Controls

If you don’t have much experience on a motorcycle yet, all the different levers,
switches, and meters you’ve probably seen up to this point might look a little
confusing. Trying to learn what they all do may seem like a lot of ground to cover,
but thankfully, the process is usually pretty intuitive once you know what you’re
doing. The most prominent sort of motorcycle has a gas-powered engine and a
manual transmission, but common components belonging to a variety of different
types of motorcycles will be referenced.

Primary Controls
Primary controls change the direction your motorcycle travels, how fast it travels,
how much power the engine creates, and how that power is applied.
Handle bars
Control the direction of the motorcycle; a number of the other features of the
motorcycle are built directly into it to make those features easier to reach.
Clutch Lever
This component is specific to motorcycles with manual transmissions (which
accounts for most motorcycles), as the clutch is used to assist in changing gears.
The clutch lever is located just in front of the left handgrip. When squeezed tightly,
it disengages engine power to the rear wheel. While engine power is disengaged,
the motorcycle is free to change gears, coast, or brake without stalling. As it’s
slowly eased back to its original position while providing power viathrottle, it applies
proportionate power to the rear wheel.
Throttle
Used to change engine speed in order to accelerate or
decelerate. The throttle is built into the right hand grip.
Twist towards yourself to increase engine speed, and twist
away from yourself to decrease engine speed. This is
called “rolling on” or “rolling off” the throttle.
Front Brake Lever
Located in front of the throttle on the right handgrip, the front brake lever looks
similar to the clutch lever but confusing them could be devastating. Smoothly and
easily squeeze the front brake lever and it offers more resistance the more it’s
pressed in. The more it is depressed, the harder you’ll brake.

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 Rear Brake Pedal
This is a pedal located on the right side of the motorcycle,
just in front of the footrest. Press it down to control the
brake on the rear wheel.
Gear shift Lever
The gearshift is used by your left foot, in tandem with the
clutch lever to operate a motorcycle with a manual
transmission. Motorcycles generally have 5 or 6 gears,
which are typically ordered with 1st gear at the bottom,
neutral above it, and thengears 2 through 5 (or 6) above
that. Your left foot presses the lever down to downshift to a lower gear, or up to
upshift to a higher gear.

Secondary Controls

Several other buttons and switches are visible across your motorcycle’s front.
Check your motorcycle owner’s manual for a comprehensive list of the controls
unique to your motorcycle. Some common controls include:
Engine Cut-Off Switch
Typically red, located near your right hand grip, and operated by your right thumb,
the purpose of this switch is to activate and deactivate your engine without your
hand leaving the handgrip. In the event of an emergency, pulling the clutch in and

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pushing this switch will disengage engine power from the real wheel and then turn
the engine off. While this switch is set to off your engine will not start, so always
check it as a part of start-up (FINE-C) procedures as recommended in MSF.
Fuel Supply Switch
Most modern motorcycles are fuel-injected, which means they only allow gasoline
to flow when the motorcycle is on and the engine is running. Some motorcycles
are carbureted and have a fuel supply valve typically located on the left side of the
motorcycle, under the gas tank. They may require you to flip the designated switch
to begin the flow of fuel. In addition to standard “Off” and “On” indicators, there
may also be “Reserve” or “Prime” positions. Their functions should be explained
in your motorcycle owner’s manual.
Choke
This is also not seen on fuel-injected models but is essential for older models. The
choke is normally located near the left handgrip or the carburetor of your
motorcycle, although the location can vary. In colder weather, the motorcycle may
have difficulty starting. The choke is used to allow an enriched fuel mixture—or fuel
that has more gasoline and less air than normal—to assist in the starting process.
Fuel injected models may have a high-idle control which serves a similarfunction
when starting in cold temperatures.
Ignition
Typically found near the gauge/instrument cluster located on the front of your
motorcycle, the ignition switch contains a slot for your motorcycle’s key. Most
motorcycles allow you to turn the key to positions labelled “On”, “Off”, “Lock,” and
“Park”. While the functions for the on and off positions are obvious, lock allows you
to lock the steering column of your motorcycle when you remove your key, and
park will lock your steering column and turn your tail lights on. This is useful ifyou’re
parked short-term on a poorly-lit street or highway. Some motorcycles have a
separate key slot meant to lock the column. Refer to your owner’s manualfor more
information.
Turn Signal
The turn signal is typically located near and operated with your left thumb. Slide it
right to go right, left to go left, and click the central button to return it to center and
turn it off. On a few choice models, the turn signals will be separated, with the right
turn signal control on the right hand grip, and the left turn signal control on the left
handgrip.

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Displays and Other Equipment

Just like the dashboard on a car, a motorcycle has a number of dials, gauges and
meters that display various pieces of information that are of use to you, such as:
Horn
On motorcycles equipped with a horn, the control is typically located near the left
handgrip and operated with the left thumb. As with all vehicles, use of the horn is
restricted to emergencies. The horn on many motorcycles isn’t the loudest, so
don’t rely on it and get ready to act while applying the horn to avoid emergencies.
High /L ow Beam Switch
This switch is located on your left handgrip and is used to control whether you’re
using your headlights’ low or high beam; most headlights start up automatically
with your engine, and are used for others to see you.
Opera ting Lights
Headlights, turn signals, taillight, and brake light. These lights add to your visibility,
and should be checked before each ride.
Mirrors
Your mirrors branch off to the sides of your motorcycle and are used to see behind
you. Motorcycle mirrors are convex and curved outwards to allow for a greater field
of vision and reduced blind spots. It is important to note that the mirrors do not
eliminate blind spots— they just reduce them. Objects in convex mirrors are
generally closer than their reflection would imply so please be aware of your space,
and check your mirrors frequently.
Side Stand or Center Stand
Side stands keep the motorcycle mostly upright and
stabilized, just as a kickstand stabilizes a bicycle. Motorcycles
that have center stands can use them to propthe motorcycle
straight upright, with one of the wheels slightlyelevated above
the ground. Center stands are very useful forboth routine and
roadside maintenance.
Side stands may sink
depending on the ground.

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Engine Start Button
This is located on your right handgrip, normally within easy reach of your thumb.
Press it in once and hold until the motorcycle starts (4-5 seconds), then release.
Odometer
Your odometer displays the total miles travelled on your motorcycle. Many have
modes that can be reset manually, allowing you to gauge the distance you traveled
on a full tank of gas, or the total distance of a trip you’ve taken.
Speedometer
The speedometer shows how fast your motorcycle is currently travelling.
Tachometer
The tachometer measures your engine speed in revolutions per minute (RPM). Do
not exceed the red line on this gauge. When your engine “revs” high and your
tachometer shows it is getting to a set RPM, it is a good indicator you need to
switch gears. Consult your motorcycle manual for the recommended shifting area
and listen to your motorcycle.
Other:
There may be a variety of other gauges on your motorcycle’s instrument cluster.
They may indicate when your high beams are on, what gear you’re in, how much
fuel is left in your tank, oil pressure, or any number of other useful pieces of
information. A full overview of all the miscellaneous displays on your instrument
cluster can be found in your motorcycle owner’s manual.

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The March of Technology:

In the modern world many riders add other instruments to their motorcycle to
create a more comfortable, convenient, (ostensibly) safe, and prepared ride.
Automatic transmissions, fish-eye mirrors, Anti-lock brake systems, clutch-
slipping, safety systems for downshifting quickly, and TPMS (Tire Pressure
Monitor Systems) can make riding easier and safer.

Conversely some instruments added to make your ride easier may impair your
ability to ride or impact your safety gear negatively. This may include on-board
cameras, Augmented Reality Heads-up Displays (AR HUDs), mobile phones,
bluetooth headsets and communication devices, digital displays affected by
sunlight, or additional lighting systems.

Phone mounts are great Communiction devices AR devices are not

for GPS, but can be are fun, but add mature enough yet to
distracting complexity to situations make riding safer

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 Controlling Your Motorcycle

Before purchasing your motorcycle, you need to make

sure you are physically able to ride it. Size and fit are
important, but many riders consider the weight of the
motorcycle they’re purchasing. Attempting to ride a
motorcycle that is physically too big or too small for you
may end badly, but most riders overestimate how heavy a
motorcycle they can handle, endangering themselves.

In general, it’s good to seek out a motorcycle you can

comfortably keep stabilized while mounted. This is You must be able to, and know
clearly essential in traffic, but motorcycle riding is also an how to lift your bike.
exhausting activity. You should make sure you’re
physically able to support the weight of your motorcycle
even at the end of a long ride, or during a ride in conditions such as extreme heat
or cold.
Mounting

Assuming you're mounting a motorcycle that suits your physique and skill level,
it’s as easy as holding the handlebars from the left, squeezing the front brake lever
to make sure the motorcycle doesn't roll, and swinging your leg over the seat. Once
you’re straddling the motorcycle, firmly sit on the motorcycle and pullthe side stand
up. After you’ve done that, you’re ready to start the motorcycle.
Dismounting
Dismounting is easy; just reverse the process described above. Shift to first gear,
flip the cut-off switch to the cut-off position, turn the key to off, swing the side

"The Right Ride

When considering whether a motorcycle is a good fit, you should
consider its height and how much leverage it affords you; whether you
can sit on the bike flat footed, with a slight bend in your arms when the
handlebars are square, and whether you can readily control the bike.

You can always get help finding a good fit at local dealerships.

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 stand firmly and fully down into place, lower your motorcycle until it’s rested upon
the stand, and while gripping the front brake lever, swing your leg back over the
motorcycle. Turn the handlebars to the lock position and lock them with the key.

Starting your Motorcycle

A good pre-start routine will help you as you’re learning to ride. It will remind you
of what to do and when to properly start your motorcycle. Motorcycle Training
Concepts recommends the FINE-C method, outlined in training from the
Motorcycle Safety Foundation:

— Ignition Start: Turn your fuel supply valve and ignition switches to On.
— Neutral: Make sure your motorcycle is in neutral—an easy way to check this is to
attempt to roll your motorcycle forwards and backwards while the forward and rear
brakes and clutch lever are not in use; if it rolls, your motorcycle is in neutral. Don't
trust the green Neutral light. It could be broken or giving off a faulty reading.

— Engine Cut-off switch: Turn your engine cut-off switch to the On or Run position.
— Clutch/Choke: Always squeeze the clutch when starting your motorcycle to
disengage the engine from the wheel. Some motorcycles even require the clutch
lever to be fully pressed in to start in the first place. If your motorcycle is equipped
with one, evaluate whether you need to use the choke or not. It can be helpful if
the motorcycle is having trouble starting due to cold weather, but make sure to turn
it back off once your motorcycle is running.

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Operating a Motorcycle with a Manual Transmission

Given that virtually all new models of cars come with automatic transmission,
younger riders getting into motorcycling may never have used a manual
transmission and may not know how they work. While most maneuvers crucial to
riding your motorcycle will be covered in a later section of this handbook, learning
how a manual transmission works is a small but sometimes challenging part of
operating your motorcycle. While it may feel difficult at first, practice will help you
become proficient, and that proficiency will eventually become second nature.
Make sure you take your time getting the basics down, and mastery is just a good
bit of practice away!

Shifting gears is the process of aligning the engine speed, measured in

Revolutions Per Minute (RPM), to its ideal RPM range based on your motorcycle's
speed. A transmission changes from one gear to the gear that best suits the MPH
range so the engine operates slower and at a cooler temperature.
Friction Zone
Your clutch lever controls what is known as the “friction
zone,” a narrow range of the clutch where engine power
is only partially engaged to the rear wheel of the
motorcycle. While you don’t want to fully release the
clutch until your motorcycle is fully in motion, use of this
friction zone to get your motorcycle started is one of the
most intricate maneuvers you can master on a
motorcycle. It is an absolutely crucial skill to learn, but it
can also be a challenging one. Take your time, and
practice. It will make a difference.

Once you are underway, shifting becomes much easier. You’ll eventually find a
rhythm with your motorcycle where shifting becomes second nature.
Up shifting
Upshifting, as covered earlier, is the process of shifting up to a higher gear when
your engine speed (RPM) is beginning to outpace your motorcycle’s road speed.
In other words, your motorcycle’s engine is working harder than needed tomaintain
your current speed. By upshifting, you allow your motorcycle to match with your
engine speed.

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 To upshift:
— Close the throttle completely
— Squeeze in your clutch lever fully
— Lift the gear shift lever firmly with your foot, once for each gear you shift
— Release the clutch slowly and re-apply throttle
Downshifting
Downshifting has several purposes; one primary purpose is engine braking, which
is the process of downshifting to slow your motorcycle down. Before engine
braking, ensure you’re traveling slowly enough to downshift safely. Don’t let the
motor rev into the tachometer’s red-line.

To downshift:
— Close the throttle completely to ensure you’re slow enough to downshift.
— Squeeze in your clutch lever fully
— Press down on the gear shift lever firmly, once for every gear you shift
— Ease out the clutch.

It’s important to be careful with the clutch as the motorcycle is in the process of
engine braking and releasing the clutch all at once could put unjust pressure on
your drive train, or cause your rear tire to skid and slide.

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 Maintaining Your Motorcycle

Proper and consistent maintenance is the key to keeping your motorcycle in top
shape so you can enjoy riding it as long as possible.

Before any and every ride you must make sure that your motorcycle is in good
riding condition. We recommend an inspection after riding as well, to check for any
damage that occurred during your ride. Because so much of a motorcycle is
exposed, it's important to make sure nothing impacts your ability to ride.
Check your motorcycle’s machinery
This includes your engine, transmission, driveshaft and the parts surrounding
these. Make sure rust is not inhibiting your motorcycle from functioning properly,
that all parts are in their proper place, and that nothing could possibly shake
loose or fall off.
Your motorcycle’s other moving parts
This includes your suspension, switches and levers on the front instrumentdisplay,
handlebars, and anything else that relies on smooth, unimpeded movement to
make the motorcycle ride.
Structural damage to the motorcycle
The frame of the motorcycle protects more vulnerable portions, and is important
to keep intact. The same applies to your seats as damage to them may mean long
term damage to components underneath.
Tires and Wheels
Make sure your tires are filled to their appropriate air pressure, their tread and
sidewalls look good, they're not dented, and their spokes are secure.
Hoses
Hoses carry fluids that help your motorcycle move, shift gears, help it brake, stop
it from overheating, and so much more. If you see a hose worn down or punctured,
take it in for maintenance.
Fluids
Make sure your oil and other fluids are at sufficient levels to ride and that nothing
is leaking before or after your ride.

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 Stands
Check that they are in good condition and will hold up your motorcycle adequately.
They must be stable enough that your motorcycle will not get easily knocked over
or tumble over on its own, even on softer surfaces.
Mirrors
Make sure they are not only in their proper position, but stable and sturdy. Ensure
they are cleaned well enough to see through, and that there are no imperfections
on the mirror causing it to warp.
Lights
Replace any burnt-out bulbs as soon as they show signs of going out. Motorcycles
are already hard enough for drivers to see, and you need all the visibility your lights
can give. Consider switching standard bulbs for brighter, longer-lasting LED bulbs.

Pre-Ride Inspection

The pre-ride may seem like a lot to do before every ride, but with
repetition it should only take you a matter of minutes once you
have a routine down. It’s helpful to keep a checklist in plain view
near your motorcycle until you no longer need assistance
remembering to do a once-over before you ride.
Rider does a safety
check after the ride It is also recommended that you perform a post-ride inspection.
That inspection can look the exact same as your pre-ride
inspection. It will give you a chance to clean any dirt and grime
your motorcycle may have acquired on the road and spot any problems that may
have occurred on your ride before they can become major problems later in the
future. Pay specific attention to your tires.

"Post-Ride Reviews
The DDFM Crew spends a lot of time talking about what others
could have done better as a rider. I encourage you to keep doing
this once you finish this handbook and begin to ride on your own.
If you made questionable decisions, take a look back and ask
yourself if it was honestly worth risking your health and your
motorcycle. After getting off your motorcycle is the best time to
think about what you learned while riding.

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 S.M.A.R.T. Rider Principles - S

S — Seeks, Recognizes, & Understands

Hazardous Situations

A motorcycle is 27x times more likely to crash than any other motor vehicle, and
the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) reports that
motorcyclists are nearly 35x times more likely to be fatally injured in a crash than
automobile operators.

Riding a motorcycle is inherently risky and motorcycling is 100% mental.

If your mental state isn’t up to riding, you can seriously hurt or kill yourself and
those around you. Driving defensively will help you avoid accidents, but there are
no guarantees. Accidents can be caused by another person, the environment,
mechanical failures, or damage sustained by the motorcycle itself. While none of
these factors may even be within your control, they all have potentially devastating
impacts on you and those around you. Acknowledging this before each ride keeps
you cautious and alert.

Are Y ou Good To Rid e?

The most important tool in a rider’s repertoire is an awareness of what’s going on
around them. Every second of every ride, you have to actively seek out warning
signs and be ready to react to any potential hazards before it’s too late.

As a rider, it’s important to be aware of the risks associated with riding. You will
encounter many types of hazards, including vehicles. However, there are many
other dangers, so make sure you aren’t just looking from vehicle to vehicle as you
scan the road in front of you. Debris, roadwork, animals, and even pedestrians are
potential hazards you may encounter, and must be ready to react to. A deep
pothole or a manhole cover has just as much potential to disrupt your ride if you
aren’t prepared for it as a car merging into your lane unexpectedly.

If you only learn one thing from this entire workbook, let it be this:

If you do not see the hazard you cannot use the skills you think you have.

Whether you have the ability to properly respond to a threat is less important than
whether you have the abilty to spot potential dangers and navigate around them

27
 before they become problems. Seeking, Recognizing, and Understanding
Hazardous Situations is the first and most important part of being a S.M.A.R.T.
Rider, and that process starts before you ever hop on your bike.

Before you ride, prepare yourself mentally to ensure you are capable of riding
effectively. Ask these critical questions at a minimum:

1. Am I sober?
2. Can I concentrate?
3. Am I aware of what I’m getting into?

If the answer to any of these questions (especially the 1st one) is “No”, a taxi, Uber,
or lift from a good friend would be a more responsible option than endangering
yourself and others by riding.

Remember the DDFM color code chart, and put it to use in determining
whether or not you’re good to ride:

— White Stage - "Zoned Out" & Oblivious

— Yellow Stage - "Zoned In" & PLANning your ride.
— Orange Stage - Entered a hazardous area or spotted a potential hazard.
— Red Stage - "Action Time" - Executing proper evasive maneuvers.
— Brown Stage - Failure to execute appropriately or execute anything at all.

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A Warning About Altered States
Riding safely means that you must be mentally prepared for the risks you will
encounter while on your motorcycle. Your ability to pay attention to your
environment can be impaired in a number of ways. Intoxication, stress, anxiety,
being preoccupied, and even physical exhaustion can make the task of focusing
much more difficult than normal. In a car, this is dangerous. On a motorcycle, this
is a recipe for disaster.
Attentiveness
Assess your mental state before you get on a motorcycle. If you are having trouble
concentrating, or if any part of your pre-ride routine seems more difficult than usual,
it may not be safe for you to ride in this condition. If your ability to prepare for a
ride is affected, delaying your ride until you find it easier to concentrate is
recommended.
Exhaustion
Fatigue can affect your ability to make decisions similarly
to intoxicants; slowing down your reflexes, increasingyour
response time, and impairing your judgement.

Riding a motorcycle is more physically demanding than

driving a car and requires constant use of muscles that
would normally only be used for short periods of time. Plan
rest stops along the way to help avoid fatigue.
Intoxication
Riding under the effects of anything that can impair your reaction times or leave
you not entirely aware of what’s going on around you is dangerous, no matter how
much you’re used to being under the effects of your intoxicant of choice. Justtake
a look at some of the videos breaking down accidents involving drinking anddriving
on the DanDanTheFireman channel.

An unfortunate amount of accidents happen as a result of intoxication — according

to the NHTSA, as many as 45% of motorcycle fatalities involvedmotorcyclists who
had alcohol in their system.

29
 Other popular intoxicants include:
— Cannabis: Although no longer as notorious as it once was, it’s still just as
debilitating under the influence of THC.
— Hallucinogens: Enough said.
— Inhalants: Don’t do them before riding.
— Prescription drugs: It doesn’t matter that they’re legal. They’re still dangerous
because they still have an effect on your reaction time.

Do what you want in your spare time. I just want you to be safe on the road, for
your sake and for the sake of those around you. If it inhibits your ability to do
anything else… don’t ride while under its effects.
DUI
A DUI is an infraction for Driving Under the Influence. DUIs aren’t limited to any
specific intoxicant. They apply to alcohol, any of the above drugs, and a variety of
substances not covered here.

As of 2020, in Arizona the punishment for a DUI could include:

— Loss of license
— At least 10 days in jail
— Being subject to fines and penalties of at least $1,250
— Mandatory community service
— Alcohol screening/education/treatment classes
— A certified ignition interlock device
— If your Blood Alcohol Concentration is 0.15% or higher, it is considered an
Extreme DUI and the penalties worsen to at least 30 days in jail without the
option for probation or a suspended sentence, and at least $2,500 in fines.

If you're caught a 2nd time the punishment could be:

— At least 90 days in jail

— Fines of up to $3,000
— Your license will be revoked for 12 months
— Additional alcohol screening/education/treatment classes
— Additional community service

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An ignition interlock device is a mobile, mandatory breathalyzer that inhibits your
car from starting if the driver is intoxicated for 2 years following license
reinstatement. Please note however that these aren’t manufactured for
motorcycles. If you get a second DUI, you will be left unable to ride your motorcycle
for at least 2 years.

If you’re not located in Arizona, make sure you are aware of local laws regarding
DUIs, including what counts as a DUI and punishments you may face if you choose
to drive while intoxicated. If you are in Arizona and have more questions, please
refer to the Arizona Department of Transportation’s writeup on the subject.
Stress & Anxiety
Stress and anxiety can be debilitating. It’s natural to look for ways to distract
yourself from the things that cause stress or anxiety, and some find that riding
provides this outlet. You may want to wait until you are a more experienced
motorcyclist before heading out for a ride though. As you gain experience,
operating your motorcycle will become more instinctive, which will allow you to
focus on the road in front of you and possibly help clear your mind.

Less experienced riders have to think more about what they are doing, which
decreases reaction time. Because of this, it’s recommended that they delay their
ride until they are in a mental state where they are able to focus entirely on
operating their motorcycles.

Beware that even distracted veteran motorcyclists will have a slowed-down

reaction time, or may react improperly to dangers. There’s a fine line between
going on a ride to clear your head, and going on a ride too worked up to
concentrate on the road ahead of you.

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32
 Learning What To Look For

When you’ve established that you’re good to ride and you’re on the bike, it’s
important to remember that, while motorcycling is a hobby, that doesn’t mean you
can just sit back and enjoy the ride. What kills far more motorcyclists than alcohol
is not knowing early warning signs to potential hazards. This can come from a
few different places, the first of which is a lack of proper education.

Many otherwise-great courses or workbooks give only cursory looks towardswhat

to actually look for when you’re on the back of your bike, because it can be difficult
to accurately test your on-bike reactions from the classroom. Additionally, there’s
not really a safe way to test your ability to react while on the bike itself, soit makes
sense why this appears to be a bit of a blind spot in most classes.

The DanDanTheFireman YouTube channel is great for tackling this problem,

because it was designed to get you as close to the action as possible without
putting you at risk so you can learn from others’ mistakes. Hosted on the channel
are videos that show disasters or close calls, alongside observations about what
the rider (or those around them) were doing wrong, and why what the rider did was
or was not correct in the situation. These sorts of close-ups can help to show, in
tangible ways, what you need to look for and how you should react to it.

Making Sure You Are Seen

Learning what to look for is only one side of the coin. The other is ensuring that
those you share the road with see and react to you, as well. Drivers are
accustomed to looking for other four-wheeled vehicles when merging into another
lane, turning, or checking for traffic at a stop sign, but they may not see a
motorcycle, a bicycle or a pedestrian, because they are smaller and less visible.

Motorcycles are often louder than the typical car, which can be helpful in alerting
other motorists of your presence. Still, it is never safe to assume that other
drivers see you. As distracted driving becomes a bigger and bigger problem, it is
essential to take extra steps to ensure maximum visibility as a rider.
Effectively Utilize Your Gear
The easiest way to increase your visibility is to buy gear that is highly visible. Riding
a black motorcycle with black gear may look sharp, but you will be harder to see.
Brightly colored protective gear with built-in reflectors can be a great start.
Reflectors on your motorcycle help even more.

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 Drive Defensively
A good rule of thumb is to check twice before turning, merging
into another lane, or making any other adjustments in traffic. Keep
your eyes moving constantly, as you scan for anyone who may
not see you, so that you can avoid a collision.

The principle of right-of-way is one of many rules of the road that

is often misunderstood or even ignored by motorists. Though you
may pull up to an intersection first and have the right of way
because of it, it’s never safe to assume that other motorists have
seen you. When navigating intersections, be aware of vehicles
High-Viz gear is great, but no that approach the intersection at roughly the same time, and
substitution for movement,
awareness, and staying make sure that your path of travel is clear before proceeding.
S.M.A.R.T.
Rules of the road for navigating intersections, including stop
signs and stop lights, are designed to prevent collisions. When you know and
follow these rules, they can save you from an accident. A full 3-second stop at a
stop sign, for example, will give you the time needed to assess whether the car
across from you is intent on stopping to let you by, or if they just stopped long
enough to check their mirrors and accelerate off again. There may even be times
where you may have the right of way, but will need to yield to another motorist who
doesn’t see you.

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Lights and More

Your motorcycle comes equipped with a variety of equipment meant solely for the
purpose of making yourself known to others. High visibility clothing, gear, and other
aftermarket add-ons can go a long way towards increasing visibility.
Headlight
Much like other vehicles, the headlight on your motorcycle has two settings. The
same rules of the road apply for use of high and low beams. Low beams provide
visibility and illuminate your path in traffic. The high setting illuminates more of the
road in front of you when traveling alone after dark. Ensure that your headlights
are on the low setting when following a vehicle or encountering oncoming traffic.
Turn Signals
Your turn signals communicate to other drivers when you are about to merge into
another lane of traffic. It will also indicate that you are about to turn or change lanes
so that other drivers can avoid you. Most motorcycles do not automatically cancel
their turn signals, so make sure you do so manually if necessary.
Brake Lights
Brake lights signal to other motorists that you are stopping. Since motorcycles can
stop more quickly than larger vehicles, it’s important to give cars behind you
enough time to stop. Pulsing your lights is a good way to let other drivers know
you intend to stop so they have time to slow down accordingly.
Horn
Some motorcycles come equipped with a horn, which should only be used in the
case of an emergency. If you're ever in a situation you need to use your horn, don’t
rely on it to be sufficient to warn traffic around you of your location — ride
defensively and identify an escape route.

Lane Positioning
Your path of travel in a lane is important for both avoiding obstacles and for making
others aware of your presence. Cars typically travel in the middle of the lane
because of their size. They occupy most of the lane, and have less room to shift
within a lane without interfering with oncoming traffic, or drifting onto the shoulder
of the road. Motorcycles, on the other hand, have the advantage of adjusting
positions in a lane, allowing for optimal visibility and safety.

35
 Typically, you want to remain in the left-hand portion of your lane (lane position 1).
This will put you immediately in front of the driver of the cars behind you, and in
view of oncoming traffic if the vehicle in front of you otherwise blocks their view.
The biggest danger, however, is that drivers merging into your lane from the left
will not give you much time to react to them and you are nearest oncoming traffic.

The center of the lane (position 2) is great for maintaining a cushion between you
and traffic in other lanes. It’s a good place to gravitate towards if there are
obstacles on either side of you, such as slow-moving traffic to your left, and a row

36
of parked cars to your right. Be careful when riding in the center, because it’s also
where drops of oil, other lubricants, and road debris tend to collect.

The right side of your lane (position 3) is useful if you are trying to increase visibility
at a stop that obscures the rest of your lane, or if you are approaching a left turn.
The right side of the lane has the most buffer room from oncoming traffic and will
give you the most time to react to anything coming from the left. A disadvantage
of riding on the right side is that it may limit the number of escape paths available
to you. This is most concerning if you are located in the furthest lane to the right,
where your only paths of escape are ahead of you, behind you, and turning off onto
the shoulder of the road.

The best lane position for you to be in will change constantly so you should
constantly seek out the best vision, quickest escape paths, and safest space
cushions. Knowing the best position is something each rider must analyze and
adjust to continuously.

Which Lane Should You Be In?

While riding on larger city roads or travelling down the highway, knowing which
lane you should be in can be vital to helping keep you safe. Riders should
constantly analyze traffic, road surface conditions, and upcoming hazards to
identify which lane provides the best path of travel.

On large highways with three or more lanes, you want to avoid the right-hand
lanes. The far-left lane can help you pass slower traffic, but can be unsafe for
general riding as aggressive drivers tend to flock towards that lane. The far-right
lane will be full of cars merging onto and off of the highway, and is safest to avoid
until you are preparing to make your exit.

On smaller two-lane highways, keep to the left-hand lane. You will run into more
aggressive drivers and will need to adapt your riding accordingly, but you also will
have to try and navigate the rush of cars entering and exiting the road if you ride
in the right-hand lane.

If this doesn’t seem like a straight answer, that’s the point. You must constantly
assess and reassess your positioning in the lane as you ride.

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 Be Watchful
The biggest benefit of riding while taking careful note of everything around you is
that you will increase the amount of time you may have to react to any potential
dangers. This will give you the opportunity to switch lanes, or adjust your position
in the lane, to avoid or escape dangerous situations.
360° Awareness
Don’t get complacent. Always scan for obstacles to your sides or behind you. Your
eyes should constantly be on the move. It’s important to check side to side to keep
track of vehicles beside you, and to use your mirrors to make sure the road directly
behind you is clear, as well.
Use Your Mirrors
Your mirrors can help you to see what’s going on around you without requiring you
to take your eyes off of the road. Be aware that all mirrors have blind spots, or
areas beside or behind you that will not show up in your mirror’s field of view. While
your mirrors should allow you to spot hazards, it’s not safe to depend on mirrors
alone when switching lanes. If you’re concerned about the driver next to you, or if
you feel there may be someone in the lane slightly behind you that you can’t see
in your mirrors, quickly look over your shoulder to check. Make sure to check the
lanes beside you before you proceed to merge or change lanes.

38
Your blind spots change every time you shift your mirrors, so don’t assume you
know where they are. The mirrors on a motorcycle are much smaller than those
on a car, so the blind spots may be larger than you are used to.
Keep Your Eyes Moving
Constantly scan the road in front of you, and check your mirrors every few
seconds. You should always look for hazards or potential danger. The sooner you
spot a hazard, the longer you have to react. Likewise, any hazards down the road
should be taken into consideration well before you have to act to avoid them. Early
detection is the best defense for every situation a rider may encounter. Thesooner
a hazard is spotted, the more time you have to react.
Target Fixation
Take care not to focus too long on any one detail around you, especially in the
event of an accident. Focusing solely on one thing makes you more liable to miss
other hazards around you. Many major accidents are the result of a chain- reaction
of small oversights. Paying too much attention to one obstacle increases your
chance encountering another hazard you did not see.

Another reason to avoid focusing too intently on a single spot is because of

something called “target fixation”. Target fixation describes the unconscious
tendency for the operator of a vehicle to inadvertently direct themselves towards
an object that has their full attention. In other words if you fixate on a target, you
will move toward it. Instead of focusing on the hazard or accident, identify an
escape path and focus on riding towards your exit, away from danger.
Following Distance
How closely should you follow a car in front of you to best ensure you can avoid
an accident, should one occur? The simple answer is “far enough that you can
quickly react to avoid an emergency”.

Maintain a minimum cushion of about 4 seconds between you and traffic in front
of you while moving. In situations where visibility or road conditions are poor, or
you otherwise don’t feel confident in that four-second buffer, double or even triple
the cushion distance. Be on constant watch if you are travelling at high speeds.

The easiest way to estimate your following distance is to choose a landmark and
begin counting once the vehicle in front of you passes it. If you reach thelandmark
before a full 4-second count, slow down a bit until that minimumcushion has been
achieved.

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 Watching Traffic
While you’re following at least 4 seconds behind the car in front of you, look
through their vehicle and examine what’s 3 seconds in front of them. Don’t rely on
the driver in front of you to notice or react to hazards in a safe and timely manner.
Out of Sight
Make sure you’re prepared for potential hazards you may not see. Is this a
construction zone? Is your lane ending? Is your exit coming up? How could any of
this impact your ride? What S.M.A.R.T stage should you be in? Give yourself as
much time as possible to prepare.
Have an Out
As soon as you notice danger, you must decide how to react. You may need to
quickly evaluate three or four different actions you could take, and isolate what
option would work best. For example, if there is an accident in front of you, do you
have time to stop? Or change lanes to avoid it? Are you going to have to swerve
or pull off so traffic behind you doesn’t run you over?

Even bicycle lanes or shoulders of the road can be used during an emergency. It
is generally illegal to ride in themb ut they serve as great escape routes.

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 Put It All Together — The P.L.A.N. Method

While it may seem easy to keep this in mind now, stress on the road makes it
difficult to remember in the moment. In the event of a crisis your brain typically
goes to its lowest level of training. Instead of trying to remember everything in this
chapter for use when riding, just try to remember the P.L.A.N. method instead. It
cuts down on what you need to remember, and gives you a quick and easy
checklist you should be going down constantly throughout the course of your ride.
P: Position Yourself for Safety
Before you find yourself in a dangerous situation, set yourself up for success in
your current lane. Move into a lane position that affords you the best line of sight,
at least one escape path, and the most significant space cushion you can create,
so you can brake or swerve effortlessly.
L: Locate Potential Hazards
Take note of anything that could interrupt your ride. Is a car in front of you driving
erratically? Are you making yourselve easy to spot? Is there debris on the road, or
is it in a state that would make navigation difficult? Most hazards present
themselves in front of you, but many can pop up to the side of or behind you, so
be sure to check your mirrors regularly. You'll find that, when you’re actively
looking, you’ll spot a number of dangers that you'd otherwise miss.
A: Adapt to Perceived Hazards
Once you’ve located a hazard, spend a second planning out how to adapt to it.
Early adaptation can make a potentially hazardous threat a non-issue if you react
appropriately. Sometimes all it takes is to move into a different lane position or
lane to solve a potential problem. If the hazard becomes a threat, be prepared to
negotiate that hazard.
N: Navigate Around Threats
If adapting to avoid a threat doesn’t work, use your skills on the bike to safely
navigate around the primary threat to your safety with an emergency swerve —
and be wary of any secondary threats as others adapt to the threat, as well!

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 "RIDING WITHIN LIMITS
It is your job to navigate your risk tolerance, but failing to do so
can put you and people around you at risk. Ask yourself if taking
on a risk is deserving of the reward, and whether you may be
biting off more then you can chew. Think through this chart
whenever you get on a motorcycle.
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 One Final Note

“Seeking, recognizing, and understanding hazardous situations” seems like a

pretty simple premise for a chapter, and many of the tips here really are common
sense. But knowing how to be a good rider (or a S.M.A.R.T. one!) hinges upon
consistently seeking out, recognizing, and understanding hazardous situations.

Another common mistake that gets new riders killed is trusting in the skill of other
drivers to keep them safe. This follows an assumption that other drivers see you,
that they know what you’re doing, and that they are going to follow the rules of
the road. Cars are a lot bigger than motorcycles, and will seriously injure or kill you
if your assumptions are not accurate. Treating other drivers like the potential
hazards they are can and probably one day will save your life.
Complacency Kills
What is complacency? According to the Oxford Dictionary, complacency is “a
feeling of smug or uncritical satisfaction with oneself or one's achievements.” This
translates to a rider that doesn’t constantly scan their surroundings, doesn’t look
to identify potential hazards, and doesn’t P.L.A.N. out how to avoid them.

Complacency kills junior riders (and even a lot of veteran ones) who, after a few
hundred hours on the road, think they’ve seen it all and stop heeding the
instructions of those who have ridden a lot more than they ever will. The Dunning-
Kruger Effect comes into play here: because they know more than the average
person about riding a motorcycle, they assume that their knowledge and skill at
riding is a lot higher than what it actually is precisely because they can’t begin to
comprehend how much they don’t know about riding safely.

This devil­may­care attitude of “I have the skill to react to threats as they occur”
kills even veteran riders with decades of experience under their belts all the time.
Just ask someone who rides as part of a club how many people they know that
have died of overestimating their capabilities. The answer may surprise you.
Don ’t Trust in Others To Drive Safely
Just as deadly as overestimating your own ability is overestimating the ability of
others driving around you. This isn’t to say that everyone on the road is a bad
driver, but that there are a lot of bad (or distracted) drivers out there. It’s already
been said, but it’s important to treat other drivers like the potential hazards they
are. It can and probably will save your life.

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 Driving While Distracted
Distracted driving is up dramatically in recent years — phones are the biggest
culprit here, but there are a number of handheld electronic devices that can
contribute to this. Every second spent returning a text, fiddling with the radio, or
glancing at the GPS to check when the correct turn is coming up is a second that
another driver isn’t actively looking out for you. We already covered that
motorcyclists are more difficult to spot than cars; they are much smaller in
comparison, as covered above, which means it’s that much easier to get lost in
someone’s blind spot.
The Old and the Young
The Association for Psychological Science had an interesting cover story titled
Psychology on the Road that everyone should read. It’s an interesting assessment
of the impact that age can have on drivers and how they identify and react to
emergency situations. Older drivers, for example, may be slower to reactto danger
or may not see hazards in time. Paired with the lower visibility of motorcycles, this
means that there’s an even higher chance they simply will not see you, or will not
be able to react to your presence once they realize you’re sharing the road with
them. Younger drivers will not have the experience to makedecisions very quickly,
which can put you in danger if their last-minute reaction encroaches upon your
space or cuts you off from your path to safety.

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 S.M.A.R.T. Rider Principles - M

intains Fundamental Motorcycle Skills

Closing the last chapter on complacency and not relying on other drivers was no
accident; keeping your fundamental motorcycle skills honed takes intention and
effort. A false sense of security is the best way to neglect your responsibility to
continually look for opportunities to grow as a rider.

Seeking, recognizing, and understanding how to react to potentially hazardous

situations is the most important part of being a S.M.A.R.T. Rider, and will help you
to escape any number of difficult situations before they turn dangerous. If a
situation does turn dangerous, however, it’s important to know how to react.

The M in S.M.A.R.T. Rider stands for Maintain Fundamental Motorcycle Skills,

and covers keeping your on­bike skills sharp so they won’t fail you when the time
comes to use them.

Learning A Skill

You learn skills through practice and repetition. The more you correctly practice a
skill, the more competent you become. When applied to motorcycling,consistently
practicing foundational skills such as operating the motorcycle can help take you
from struggling to even ride to making the motorcycle seem like an extension of
your body. In the same way that good practice makes you a good rider,
consistently being lazy when you ride, or not keeping up with your fundamentals
and settling into bad habits will make you a worse one. The quality of your riding
on the road depends on the quality of your practice in parking lots.

The reason this happens is because of a process called neuroplasticity. This

resource will provide a more in-depth overview of the subject, but basically, your
brain is constantly rewiring itself as you learn skills and retain information. If you’ve
ever learned something new, struggled at first, and now are doing that same thing
so proficiently that it’s difficult to remember a time you weren’t an expert,
neuroplasticity is the process you can thank.

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46
 The Fundamentals

Making sure you’re proficient enough to make it from Point A to B is an essential

part of minimizing hazards, by making sure you’re not the hazard.

If you’re a new rider, think about driving a car: How do you turn a corner? What do
you do at an intersection? In the event you do need to make an emergency stop,
what is the safest way to do so? Riding a motorcycle is more risky than driving a
car so the way you navigate traffic will require some adjustments. If you’re a
veteran rider, reviewing the fundamentals if it’s been a while is a good way to get
back in the motorcyclist mindset before getting back out on the road; I’d
recommend at least skimming the section before moving on.
Proper Motorcycle Posture
Your posture will vary depending on the maneuver. Are you riding down a
straightaway? Turning? Braking? The center of gravity will vary in each case.

Typically, you want to be sitting upright, shoulders squared, with your head up.
Your hands should comfortably grip the handgrips with
your arms relaxed and neutral. The balls of your feet
should be on the footrests, easily able to access the
controls, with your knees close to the motorcycle.

Your primary goal is to make sure your bodyweight

balances your motorcycle, but good posture will alsomake
your rides much more comfortable. If you find your back
aching towards the end of longer rides, you may want to Especially on rough terrain
posture is key.
make sure that your posture is correct.
Turning

How you handle turns will differ depending upon your speed and the radius of the
turn. You want to approach turns slowly enough that you will not need to apply
brakes during the turn; you will actually want to be slowly, steadily applying throttle
throughout the course of your turn to help pull you through at an even speed, so it
is important to approach your turns with this in mind. This keeps the contact point
of the tires doing what they should: the front tire changes the direction of the bike
while the rear tire keeps the bike accelerating.

47
 Basic Turns
The safest technique for navigating turns is to enter the turn slowly, and accelerate
through. Remember the MSF's mnemonic, slow, look, press, and roll.

— Slow: Approach and enter the turn slowly.

— Look: As you anticipate the turn, look through the turn further ahead along
your desired path of travel. This will help you to assess hazards on the road,
and make sure your end destination is suitable to be ridden on.
— Press: Set yourself up to countersteer in preparation for the turn. This
requires pressing the handgrip in the direction that you are turning to angle
your motorcycle away from the turn, giving you the opportunity to lean in
the direction you are turning before proceeding with your turn.
— Roll: Apply some throttle to slightly increase your speed through the turn.
Tight Turns
For tight turns, like U-turns you'll want to counterweight your motorcycle. Instead
of leaning with the motorcycle, remain upright as the motorcycle turns. Use your
body weight to counteract your motorcycle’s tendency to fall to the inside. This is
particularly useful when you are traveling at slow speeds, such as in a parking lot.

Counterweighting is a challenging skill to learn on a motorcycle. There are several

key elements to the technique that you must understand to be successful. This is
a skill that can be difficult to visualize, and must be felt to be fully understood, so
practice lots until you start to feel a bit more confident.

48
Braking Systems

Braking systems are intricate, complicated systems with many parts that work
together to increase the efficiency of your brakes. Referring to your owner’s
manual will help you gather information on the braking systems specific to your
motorcycle. Some of the more common braking systems include:
Traditional
Each brake is operated manually and separately with no electronic or mechanical
intervention from the machine.
Anti-Lock Braking Systems (ABS)
Your ABS is an automatic system that helps prevent your tires from locking up and
skidding from too much brake lever or pedal pressure. It achieves this goal by
pulsing your brakes whenever the sensors onboard detect that your tires are
starting to decelerate at a pace that is impossible for a vehicle to do – in other
words, when your tires have locked up. Pulsing your brakes allows your wheels to
keep traction instead of sliding, decreasing the distance it would take you to stop.

ABS systems can certainly save your life if you have yet to master the skill of
pulsing your breaks, but it shouldn’t be relied upon. Treat ABS as a safety net that
you hope to never use, but are sure glad to have just in case.
Integrated/Linked Braking System
An integrated braking system works to apply some brake to your front wheel when
your rear wheel brake is used. The purpose for this is to distribute braking power
more evenly between both wheels of your motorcycle, which will help to keep your
motorcycle’s rear wheel from locking up. Since newer riders have beenfound to
over-apply their rear brakes and under-apply their front brakes, an integrated
braking system can be used to help correct this problem.
Braking
Learning to brake safely and efficiently is one of the most important skills for you
to master. You also need to have a good handle on what sort of braking system
you have, and how to use it in an emergency. Avoiding an accident must be your
primary goal as a motorcyclist and knowing how and when to use your brakes is a
vital part of staying out of trouble.

49
 Properly Applying Brakes
The most important part of braking is knowing how much pressure to use. Brake
too little, and you risk not stopping in time and hitting an obstacle or stopping in
the middle of an intersection. Brake too hard, and you risk locking up your tires,
which will cause you to lose control of your motorcycle and fishtail.

Snatching your brakes as quickly as possible may seem like the easiest way to
stop, but it’s actually inefficient and dangerous. Because weight will be transferred
to the front wheel as you brake, you will want to ease off of your rear brake after
initial application, while increasing how hard you are squeezing in your front brake.
To avoid locking up your motorcycle, make sure the initial application of brakes
and transfer of brake power from rear brake to front is done smoothly.

Assuming your motorcycle doesn’t come equipped with an ABS system, locking
up your brakes will drastically decrease their effectiveness. Locking up your rear
tire leaves you vulnerable to fishtailing, which can easily launch you off your
motorcycle. Locking up your front tire is also very dangerous, and will lead to
sliding out and on the ground in under a few seconds. To avoid this, close the
throttle and then smoothly, but firmly apply both brakes. Pull in the clutch lever,
and as you’re slowing, be sure to downshift all the way down to first gear by the
time you have come to a full stop.

Keep in mind that 80% of your stopping power comes from your front brake; this
increases to 90% in an emergency.
Braking in an Emergency — Red Stage Maneuver
Braking in an emergency is similar to braking regularly: a steady application of
your brakes and clutch lever. In an emergency stop leverage both your front and
rear brakes as effectively as possible. Approximately 80% of your braking power
should be applied to your front brakes so you don't lock up your rear wheel.

While you will primarily be stopping outside of curves and turns, if you do find you
have to stop while the bike isn’t entirely vertical, don’t forget you’ll have very
diminished traction. A large portion of your tire’s traction is already being used for
lean angle.

Touching the brakes mid-corner can be absolutely deadly. In a situation where you
have to stop while mid-corner, attempt to stand your motorcycle vertically. The
downside to this is that standing the motorcycle up mid-corner may also prove
deadly. In a left hand corner, that may mean exiting the roadway. In a right-hand
corner, that could mean going right into the oncoming traffic lane.

50
Stopping suddenly in traffic is dangerous. Vehicles behind you cannot stop as
quickly because they have greater momentum at the same speed. Be prepared
to avoid getting hit from behind, whether that means changing lanes or pulling off
to the shoulder of the road. You might have to combine swerving and braking to
avoid this type of hazard - a dangerous feet on its own.

Thoroughly test the limits of your motorcycle’s brakes in a safe environment. This
could be an abandoned parking lot, empty street, or other empty facility so you
know the appropriate amount of pressure to apply (and to which brake) in the event
of an emergency. Practicing in safe conditions increases your confidence and
improves your response time in an actual emergency.
Swerving — Red Stage Maneuver
In some cases, swerving to avoid an obstacle – such as an oncoming car that
you would hit if you just tried to brake – is preferable to stopping, especially in
situations where you may not have enough time or distance to brake. As a new
rider just learning to ride, you will have to separate swerving and braking. Once
you have more practice and skill with these emergency maneuvers, you can begin
to blend these together. Reminder, that this is more of an advanced skill. It is best
to do one or the other until then.

"PRACTICE RIGHT
Motorcycle Training Concepts' youtube channel includes a full
playlist of maneuvers and exercises to practice in local parking lots,
or on your local neighborhood streets.

51
52
 Navigating Hazards

Intersections
Intersections are, by default, orange-stage situations. All intersections require
riders to process massive amounts of information to navigate safely. Riders may
be considering right-of-way, the status of the traffic light, whether there are other
cars, or any number of other variables.

Make yourself very physically obvious in order to make it difficult for a driver to
overlook you. If a driver is sitting in the oncoming turning lane, to increase visibility,
you can:

— Ride in a lane position that allows for the best line of sight and escape paths.
This is typically in lane position 2, but can change based on these
requirements.
— Cover your controls and be ready to act
— When pulling out of an intersection, give yourself extra time to ensure that
nobody is attempting to speed through the intersection.

Lane Changes & Merging

If the lane beside you has adequate space and a cushion in front and behind where
you will be entering into your new lane – you should have room to merge.

Make sure that your speed and the speed of the lane next to you are similar
enough that you can quickly accelerate or decelerate to match the new lane upon
merging. Check the space with your mirrors, signal your intent, quickly turn your
head to double check the opening, and proceed to merge. After merging, match
your speed with that of the lane you are now in for a seamless transition.

Merging lanes is similar to changing lanes in many ways, with the exception that
your lane ending may tempt you into making a risky lane switch. Avoid this
temptation, and take your time as you look to merge.

In both cases, make sure you are clearly visible to those you are changing lanes
in front of, and that you do not merge in front of someone who will have intruded
on your space cushion before you can finish the lane change.

53
 Passing Other Vehicles
When preparing to pass a vehicle, don’t tailgate. When the passing lane is clear,
signal your intent to change langes, look over your shoulder to ensure you have
room to move over and pass. When passing, make sure you ride fast enough to
quickly outpace the vehicle you’re passing, but not recklessly fast. Even while
passing, traffic law dictates that you must uphold the road’s speed limit.

Make sure you only pass one vehicle at a time. Check that you have fully passed
the slower vehicle and merge quickly back into your original lane.
Animals
Small animals that run across your path should be avoided if
possible, but if you are not able to swerve or brake, prepare to go
over it as detailed in the section “Crossing Over Small Obstacles”
below. Make sure you’re not leaned over when you hit the animal,
as you will lose traction and crash.

Animals are largely Some medium-sized animals, dogs especially, may choose to
unpredictable.
chase after your motorcycle. If a dog ahead of you is getting close
to your motorcycle’s trajectory, slow down, downshift,
adjust your line, and quickly accelerate past the dog. Larger animals such as
moose, elk, or deer have the potential to cause devastating damage to you and
your motorcycle. Instead of speeding up or slowing down to attempt to avoid them,
your best option is to simply stop until they clear the road. As soon as you are sure
no other animals are waiting to cross the road, proceed as normal.
Crossing Over Small Obstacles
Sometimes going over a hazard is simply more practical than going around it.

When crossing obstacles, square your motorcycle and choose a path of travel that
ensures that you will be perpendicular to the obstacle as you cross it, or as close
to perpendicular as possible. Crossing an obstacle at an angle could result in your
front tire slipping out from under you.

Stand slightly to keep from getting bucked off your motorcycle when you hit the
object. Make sure both hands are on your grips, but off the brakes or clutch lever.

Before crossing over the obstacle, apply a small amount of throttle to shift weight
towards the rear of your motorcycle and help your motorcycle cross the obstacle.

54
UNSAFE ROAD CONDITIONS
Night Driving
Watch the cars or vehicles in front of you. Even using the appropriate beams,
wearing the appropriate gear and driving at reasonable speeds, the night can
obscure obstacles that would normally be easily visible. A car in front of you
bouncing or jerking can alert you to something you wouldn't otherwise see.
Crack Sealant
On highways, the tar that is used to seal cracks that don’t warrant a full repair quite
yet can melt and become sticky and slick. If possible, change lanes to avoidsealant
before it becomes an issue.
Cracked & Worn-Down Streets
When riding on poorly maintained roads, watch for depressions, potholes, and
rough or uneven grooves in the road. Where possible, adjust your path of travel
to ride on the portions of the road in better repair to avoid accidents.
Dirt Roads, Gravel Roads & Loose Surfaces
Unpaved surfaces or paved surfaces with large amounts of loose debris will result
in diminished traction for your motorcycle.

Make sure your acceleration, deceleration and turns are taken smoother and more
gradually so as to prevent a total loss of traction.

Loose rocks, gravel, and other debris on asphalt roads can be very dangerous,
even more so than dirt roads, and must be navigated extremely carefully. Any
sudden change in acceleration, braking or lean angle will likely result in a sudden,
unexpected change in direction or even a crash.
Icy, Snowy or Muddy Patches on Roads
When snow, rain, mud, or other elements are present, focus on small, smooth
movements. Don’t accelerate, lean, or brake abruptly. Cross all such patches with
your motorcycle completely vertical.

Keeping in the tracks of other vehicles or navigating dry patch to dry patch may be
your best options when you have no other choice but to pass over a slick patch in
the road. Just keep things slow and stable. If you know, going into a ride,that ice
on the road is likely, take a car instead or stay home until it melts.

55
 Uneven Roads
Some areas, especially in locations that expect heavy amounts of rainfall, have
crowned roads (roads that are higher in the middle than on the sides). Other roads,
especially those on hills or in the mountains, may just have been paved at a slight
angle. Be aware of the unique difficulties these roads may present and proceed
with caution. Since they will make you feel like you are being pushed towards the
roadside, adjust your input on the handlebars.
Wet Roads
Waiting out rain is always going to be your best bet for navigating a road coated
with standing water. If that isn’t an option, try to avoid patches on the road where
water has built up. If you aren’t careful, the water can lift your motorcycle from the
road beneath you, leading to your motorcycle losing traction with the ground. This
is called hydroplaning.

Look out for any surface that seems shinier and more reflective than it normally
does; this is a pretty good indication that water is built up on the surface. Since
traction will already be a problem, be careful and reduce both the speed you enter
and angle you lean into a turn.
Wind
Wind can have a significant impact on your ride, and you should be aware of how
crosswinds and gusts may affect your movement within your lane. When riding in
steady, high winds from the side, you will need to adjust your pressure on the
handgrips. Strong gusts of wind may be encountered in the open and in the
mountains, and may be strongest near the crown of a hill. You may also encounter
gusts, turbulence, or a vacuum effect when in close proximity to large vehicles.

For example, if you are riding in a strong wind that is blowing left to right, you must
place extra pressure on your left handgrip to maintain your path of travel. If you
pass a large vehicle in oncoming traffic, they will momentarily block the wind, and
with the lack of wind pressure and your added pressure on the left handgrip, you
will tend to veer to the left if you’re not prepared.

56
Maintaining Your Proficiency

“Use it or lose it” is the best way to think about your motorcycle skills. Even if you
practice to the point of being a great rider, further practice is required to maintain
that level of expertise. While good practice makes for good skills and bad practice
makes for bad skills, no practice leads to losing the skill you tried so hard to
cultivate. Whether the season’s right for motorcycling for the first time in almost a
year or you purchased a motorcycle on a whim after not riding in years, your skill
level has dropped since the last time you were able to regularly ride, and you need
to consciously work at building up your skills before you just hop on your bike and
take off without a care in the world.

There’s no substitute for being able to practice your on­bike skills on an actual
bike, but continuing your education is an effective way to make sure you keep your
skills sharp. Whether you’re keeping up your skills watching Motorcycle Training
Concepts videos, reading through books on the subject, or making sure to set and
keep good habits while on your bike, effort and intention is what’s going to make
you a great rider.

"PRACTICE RIGHT
Motorcycle Training Concepts' Youtube Channel includes a full
playlist of maneuvers and exercises to practice in local parking lots,
or on your local neighborhood streets.

57
58
 S.M.A.R.T. Rider Principles - A

A — Acquires & Uses Personal Protective Equipment

Proper riding gear is just as important a part of being a S.M.A.R.T. Riders know
what to do when you face an emergency. Assuming that crashes can — and likely
will — happen to you is an important part of riding, and being prepared for that
eventuality will save your life.

It’s important to choose your equipment wisely over trying to save a couple of
bucks. Think of it like insurance for your bike: it’s expensive, annoying, and you
might have a hard time justifying the cost when the bill comes due. But in the event
of a wreck, suddenly all that money you spent “just in case” is going to seem like
a much better purchase than a few more nights of take-out.

Helmets

Your helmet is the most important and most identifying piece of your gear. While
you may want to purchase a helmet with a color scheme or design that is
aesthetically appealing to you, the primary factor of your
choice in helmets must be protection.

In order to ensure motorcyclist safety, the U.S.

Department of Transportation (DOT) has established
minimum standards for the construction of helmets. Look
for the DOT sticker (or ECE in Europe) to ensure ahelmet
meets minimum standards for protection. That said, the
better your helmet performs above this standard, the Look for both DOT and ECE
certifications at minimum.
better off you’ll be.

"GREAT ADVICE
I've left a few recommendations in this chapter, and some links to
resources and videos for finding great beginner gear, but if you
need specific recommendations, we've got several thousand riders
on the DDFM Discord you can ask. Just join for free to get a bit of
help from the awesome community we’ve got going on!

59
 How Your Helmet Should Fit
A helmet should be comfortable, but snug. A loose helmet is useless, but a helmet
that’s too tight also creates problems. Make sure the helmet doesn’t move around
on your head if you try to shift it, and you also want to avoid localized pressure on
any part of your head. In the event of a crash, a loose helmet could be knocked off
your head entirely. On long rides, a tight helmet could cause headaches and/or
pressure sores.

The Parts of a Helmet

Helmets are made of four main parts: A shell, impact-absorbing lining, comfort
padding, and a retention system.
The Shell
The shell of the helmet is the layer that is initially subjected to impact in the event
of a crash. The solid outer layer is designed to disperse kinetic energy experienced
during a crash, and transfer it away from your head. The shell also prevents sharp
objects such as rocks, parts of your motorcycle, or other debris from penetrating
the softer layers of your helmet, minimizing the potential for injury to your head.

If you are involved in an accident at any speed, it is imperative that you have your
helmet inspected for damage although it would probably be smart to just replace
it entirely. Your helmet may look and feel like it made it through the incident fully

60
intact, but there could be internal cracks or damage invisible to the naked eye.
Even an impact as minimal as dropping the helmet could result in damage that
would justify replacing the helmet.
The Impact Absorption Lining
Helmets are lined with a series of specially engineered foam layers directly
beneath the shell. These layers further disperse energy from an impact throughout
the helmet. The more that kinetic energy can be dispersed, the less likely you are
to sustain localized impact injuries.
Helmet Padding
Padding is provided inside the helmet primarily for comfort, and to ensure the best
fit for your helmet. Many helmets are designed for the padding to beremoved, so
it can be washed or replaced as necessary.
Retention System
This system keeps your helmet attached to your head. It might seem like a small
detail, but a helmet can't protect you if it won't stay on. Make sure the helmet you
choose has a system you're confident in.

Types of Helmets

There are many different types of helmets on the market, but

it’s important to remember that not all helmets are created
equal! The different types of helmets are described below. In
order from most protective to least protective, they are:
Full-face Helmets
These helmets cover your full head and face. They provide
the most protection for your head, by far. They’re also the
most comfortable helmets. An integrated and interchangeable
visor will protect your face without restricting your vision.
Visors or face-shields provide protection from sun, rain, and
debris.
Modular Helmets
These helmets have an adjustable chin bar that can bemoved
towards the top of the head while the rider is stopped. This
allows for an essentially full-faced helmet while in motion, but
with the ability to adjust it while stopped so the

61
 rider wouldn’t have to fully remove their helmet if they were doing something the
chin bar would inhibit. They have almost the same functionality of a full-face helmet
but may not hold up as well under impact. Never ride with the chin bar in the upper
position, it should always be down when in motion.

This is a great option for those that are claustrophobic. When stopped at a stoplight
or after a break, you can flip open the helmet and take a breather.
Three - Quarter Helmets
A three-quarter style helmet offers the same protection as a
full-face helmet, minus the chinbar that would protect your
neck and chin. It is advisable to wear goggles and face masks.
Environmental elements (wind, rain, debris, insects, etc.) are
a concern with this design.
Half-Helmets
Resembling a bicycle helmet more than a motorcycle helmet,
these helmets provide the least protection by far. Not only do
these helmets leave your head and neck exposed, because
the straps are also exposed, they are more likely to come off
in the event of a crash. These helmets must also be worn in
conjunction with eye, face, neck, and hearing protection, and
are highly discouraged.

Caring for Your Helmet

Make sure to follow the owner’s manual your helmet will come with to the letter. In
general, it’s good practice not to use harsh cleaning supplies that could degrade
or damage the shell when you clean it, and your helmet should always be stored
properly (shiny side up) as per your owner’s manual in order to prevent wear and
tear to the lining of the helmet. The main concern is the polystyrene foam, or the
Impact Absorption Lining. The shell is pretty resilient, but the foam can degrade
with harsh chemicals. Warm water and mild soap is best for anything gear

"FIND A GOOD FIT

Helmet sizes are deceptively difficult to shop for because the size of the hard
shell and the inside padding can vary between brands. I recommend asking the
staff at the store to assist you. The last thing you want to do is buy something
that you cannot take back after riding with it!

62
related. If at all possible, avoid resting your helmet on your motorcycle for any
length of time. If your helmet falls and lands poorly, it can cause damage to the
helmet that could have otherwise been easily prevented. Even a small drop could
crack the shell.

Most importantly, remember that helmets do not last forever. Even if your helmet
doesn’t show signs of wear or damage, it will need to be replaced regularly down
the road. According to Shoei, its helmets should be replaced five years after the
purchase date, or seven years after the production date. The production date is on
a sticker inside the helmet under the padding near the ear.
Eye Protection
While many helmets come with eye protection and full-faced, modular, or three-
quarter helmets will come with a bit of ear protection because of the padding and
insulation around your ears, the default options will not be sufficient.

Make sure the visor or glasses you are going to use are free of scratches, dents
or any other malformation that would interfere with your ability to see the road in
front of you.

If you will be riding during the daytime, a tinted visor or pair of sunglasses will help
shield your eyes from the sun and make it easier for you to see. These sametinted
visors, however, will impede your vision when it gets dark. Clear visors or glasses
will not interfere with your vision in the dark and UV protection is no longer needed.

When washing your eye protection, make sure to use a mild mixture of water,
soap, and washcloths instead of paper towels or another disposable alternative.
Do not use any material that could scratch or damage the lens.

"THE RIGHT GEAR

A big part of the S in being a S.M.A.R.T rider is being able to see and respond to
potential hazards before they happen. Eye strain and environmental factors can
be easily mitigated with the appropriate gear. Adventure helmets may include a
shade on the vizor you can use to block the sun, and some helmets include
internal sun shades.

63
 Ear Protection
Motorcycling is loud.

According to a recent 2018 study by the Journal of Fundamental and Applied

Sciences, the average human ear will be damaged after 8 hours of sustained
sound above ~80 decibels, even from as far away as 25 feet.

Many motorcycles are much, much louder than this, and you sit directly above the
engine while you ride. This translates to nearly 90-95 decibels inside the helmet.

While the insulation in helmets will assist in filtering out some of the noise made
by operating a motorcycle, prolonged use of a motorcycle without any sort of
earplugs will eventually lead to permanent hearing loss.

Most earplugs only filter noise at frequencies or volumes that will eventually
damage your hearing, but allow you to still hear what’s going on around you. This
means you won’t have to worry about being unable to hear surrounding traffic.

"PACK SEVERAL

We recommend the appropriate eye protection to improve your

visibility in whatever environment you will be riding in, and any ear
protection capable of blocking sounds at a frequency of ~80
decibels or above. Pack duplicates of both, just in case.

Gloves
Gloves not only protect your hands and fingers from the elements and any debris
that may sting them as it flies by, but they also provide benefits such as better and
easier grip on the motorcycle’s controls and grips with protection in the eventof a
crash.

Gloves made specifically for motorcycling are highly recommended. They are often
curved to reduce hand fatigue while gripping handlebars, with seams on theoutside
of the glove for greater comfort over longer rides. Some are reinforced with armor,
for further protection.

There are many different types of gloves, each with a unique purpose. Gauntlet
gloves have covers extending from the hand to the forearm to cover the cuff of
your riding jacket in order to better insulate your riding gear, and to stabilize the

64
wrist during a fall. Some gloves are thinner for riding in warmer climates, and some
are much thicker with special insulation that allows for both flexibility and warmth
in colder climates.

Make sure your gloves are going to hold up to what you need them for. We also
recommend that you equip yourself with multiple types of gloves if you’re not quite
sure what to expect. Better safe than sorry!

Basic sport gloves offer Basic Armoured glove Armured gauntlets

movement but aren't from Sidi looks great on provide support and
best on the road the road. performance

"THE SEASONS
Gloves are very specific based on size, fit, and preference but your
ability to effectively operate your motorcycle and avoid various
hazards is critical.

Always get armored gloves, but the most important factor is the fit.
Consider the seasons you are riding. Mesh gloves can get really
cold in the winter, but work great in the summer.
Motorcycle Jacket & Pants
Riding suits typically consist of either separate jackets and pants or a one-piece
combination that keeps your limbs and torso fully protected. Most motorcycle-
specific protection comes with removable armor. Some suits have vents that can
be sealed or unsealed with a zipper, in order to adjust to changing weather. It is
recommended to keep them sealed whenever possible to maximize protection, but
they can be useful if you begin to overheat on your ride.

Jackets and pants may vary in their material and purpose, but for the most part
they should fit snugly, be slightly longer in the limbs than normal clothing would
be, and will often be almost radiant in color to increase visibility. If the motorcycle
gear you are purchasing is not particularly bright, a brightly colored or high

65
 visibility vest is advised. It doesn’t matter how cool you look if you
don’t make it to your destination.

A protective full-body layer is almost as important to your health

and safety as your helmet. Whether one piece or two, your jacket
and pants are specially designed with armor to help prevent
fractures, and to reduce loss of skin in the unfortunate event you
fall and skid across the ground. These articles are often
accentuated along the elbows, knees, and ribs with extra padding
and armor

Touring Jackets get pricey, but Think of these layers similarly to your helmet: the outer “shell” of
are generally comfortable, your clothing works to make sure nothing abrasive penetrates the
stylish, and durable.
exterior, while the armor insulates you from the shock of the crash
and any accompanying blunt force trauma.

"SAVE YOUR SKIN

Motorcycle-specific body armor can be expensive, but just like a
heavy winter coat in the Alpine winter months, preparation is the
key to survival. Pavement eats skin much faster than leather and
plastic, so at 70mph, whether one piece or a pants/jacket duo, those
armor inserts become your lifeline.
Boots
A good pair of low-heeled, over-the-ankle boots are the minimum we can
recommend. In the event of a crash, getting sturdy over-the-ankle motorcycle
riding boots can help prevent a serious accident to your ankles and feet.

They look sporty around These boots will protect Full shin protection will
town but there's less your ankles and laces. prevent damage to your
protection. legs.

66
Boots also come with various features recommended for motorcycles like steel-
toes and steel-rivet soles. The height of the boot on your leg may also be relevant
depending on the type of pants you're wearing, so you may want a few pairs.

"Function > Style

Most work boots are sufficient, but on a motorcycle, there are many
considerations to be made. I recommend getting the boot that
gives the most protection. As a new rider you have a greater
chance of dropping your bike on your ankle during slow speed
maneuvers. Boots with mid- or full-calf protection is best.

Wearing the Right Gear

If you intend to ride despite sun, rain, or snow you may need to have a number of
different types of specialty gear on hand. Warm-weather gear, for instance, looks
very different from gear you may want to wear if you’re riding in freezing
temperatures, because it’s meant to protect you against different environmental
factors.
Warm Weather Gear
Warm weather gear needs to protect you, while taking into consideration the
potential for heat exhaustion, heat stroke, and dehydration. This is often
accomplished by providing zippers on jackets and pants that can be unzipped to
allow airflow to cool down the rider. Thinner, less bulky gloves can keep your hands
and fingers cooler, but may sacrifice protection.

The most important thing to remember about riding in warm or hot weather is that
even just riding a motorcycle will result in more perspiration than most people
expect. Riding is more than just sitting and guiding your motorcycle. Make sure to
drink enough water, and know your personal tolerance for heat. Signs of heat
exhaustion include fatigue, nausea, loss of appetite, muscle cramps, cognitive
decline, and increased pulse and respiratory rate.
Cold Weather Gear
Gear that provides adequate insulation is essential in preventing hypothermia.
Hypothermia, caused by a lower-than-usual body temperature, can result in
lowered reaction times and a sluggish, delayed ability to process your
surroundings, which can be deadly for a rider.

67
 Counteract this by layering clothes beneath your motorcyclegear
and wearing a fully sealed windproof and waterproof jacket.
Thermal layers are a wonderful base, as they are meant to trap
body heat and keep you warm while riding. Cold gear should fit
very snugly and should include multiple overlapping layers.

If you are going to be out in the cold for extended periods of time
you may also want to take a tip from the skiers and use a few of
those jacket pockets to store some exothermic sodium-acetate
heating pads you can pop and warm yourself up with.
Waterproof Gear
Be very careful what fabrics,
layers, and gear you choose to If you’re worried about rain, investing in a suit specifically built to
stay warm and dry. keep you dry and warm will make all the difference. While your
riding must be adapted to account for rain, a warm and dry rider
will focus on that task much easier than a cold and wet one.

One Final Note About Your Safety Gear

While interesting and sleek-looking gear that makes you look like a 21st century
Steve McQueen may immediately attract your attention, remember the primary
purpose of motorcycle gear is to increase your chance of walking away from a
crash, or even just surviving a crash and living to ride again.

Bulkier, brightly colored gear may not appeal to you, but it is much more visible
than dark-colored gear and more protective than alternatives. Jeans and slim,
fashionable leather jackets are made more for looks than riding. Wear those to the
concert, not while riding. So have fun and buy gear that appeals to you, but be
willing to sacrifice looks for utility because protection against weather, debris, falls,
and other hazards will be well worth it in the long run.

Since it seems like there’s an endless variation of different types of gear all with
their specific purposes, how many sets of gear should you need? Simply put, as
many as you need. Some riders in areas that have relatively stable climates may
only need one set of gear, with a couple back-up pieces just in case. Someone
who rides in several different seasons may need a different set of gear for each
one. If you aren’t sure whether the type of gear you are using will stand up to the
task, then it’s probably time to buy something that you are sure will do the job.

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 S.M.A.R.T. RIDER PRINCIPLES - R

R — Rescues Injured motorcyclists

with Medical Training
Learning how to properly administer medical assistance consists of more than
knowing how to bandage road rash or apply a tourniquet. It also means being able
to assess whether the help you provide helps or hinders the injured rider. It is
perfectly acceptable to just call 911 (or your regional emergency line equivelent) if
you’re not confident or comfortable that you’ll help a motorcyclist instead of
harming them. Make sure they’re not disturbed until responders arrive. Nobody’s
going to judge you for stepping back and making sure assistance is provided by
knowledgeable professionals.

If you’re worried about legal action being taken against you for trying to render
help, look into your state’s Good Samaritan laws and the extent to which you’re
covered by them. Very infrequently will you be penalized for improperly helping
someone, and even then, you’ll only be penalized for doing something that you
should reasonably know could seriously injure them. As was highlighted in the
source above, “Good Samaritan" laws are written to encourage bystanders to get
involved in these and other emergency situations without fear that they will be sued
if their actions inadvertently contribute to a person’s injury or death.”

If you have medical training, this will be a valuable review; if you have no such
relevant training, but in the event of an emergency you want to be able to help, it’s
worth looking into classes in your area that may cater to those who want to beable
to offer assistance if they need to — there may even be one specifically for
motorcyclists like programs provided by Accident Scene Management. Hands-on
experience, even just in a simulated environment like a classroom, can be the
difference between life and death.

This chapter will be a helpful guide, but it's not a substitute for
actual training — this is a resource to help when you need it.
Being Prepared
The best way to be prepared for an accident is to pull together your own personal
trauma kit that can help you save your life, or the life of someone else in the
event of an accident. If you need recommendations for a prebuilt trauma kit, I’d
recommend the official Motorcycle Training Concepts RESQ Kit. Go crazy, get
multiple so they’re easily available in your home and every vehicle you own!

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 If you choose to create one for yourself, make sure it
contains:

— 1 Trauma Shear
— 1 to 2 CAT Tourniquets
— 1 to 2 5”x9” ABD Pads
— 4 4x4 Gauze Pads
— 2 to 4 Roll Gauze 4"
— 2 Triangular Bandage
— 1 Emergency Blanket
Motorcycle Training Concepts
provides safety kits tailored to — 1 CPR Face Shield
RESCQing riders.
— 1 to 2 sets of Nitrile Gloves

Feel free to customize your trauma kit by adding additional items if you so desire.
Remember, if you are in a crash or come to the assistance of someone who is,
you will need to replace the supplies you use up. Lightning may not strike the same
place twice, but there’s no guarantee you won’t be in a second accident.
Help Yourself First
As we will soon go over with the RESQ acronym, the first fundamental rule of
medical care is take care of yourself first, by making the immediate area as safe
as possible and making sure you’re in good enough condition to assist. You can’t
give effective help if you’re in a compromising position as well. Treating yourself
could be as simple as quickly bandaging or covering your injuries to make sure dirt
or debris in the area doesn’t cause an infection later to something like covering
profusely-bleeding injuries to stop your blood from entering cuts and scrapes on
their person and potentially causing blood-borne illnesses.

Just as important as making sure you’re in a position to offer help

is making sure that you’re properly equipped to help. Personal
protective equipment (or PPE) is a must. The most important part
of this is making sure your face is covered, preferably by your
helmet if your helmet has a visor that shields your face. Glasses
and a bandana or similar mask will do the jobin a pinch. The goal
Motorcycle Trauma First here is to make sure you don’t get any bodily fluids on the injured
Response classes like rider, and that they don’t get anythingon you. Your jacket, pants,
Accident Scene Management
are highly encouraged. and boots are going to protect you from getting blood, saliva, or
bile on you pretty well, but most

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motorcycle gloves aren’t made of fluid isolating material. Make sure to carry a
trauma kit that contains nitrile examination gloves to ensure you have a proper
barrier between your hands and the injured rider. Take off any jewelry that could
rip the glove, and make sure to wash your hands, forearms, and any gear that
came in contact with bodily fluids throughout your administering aid.
Helping Others
An important part of helping someone else is making sure that the scene is safe
and cleared, and that the risk of those driving by causing a secondary accident is
minimized as much as it can be. If an injured rider is in the middle of the road, for
example, you can help in a few ways: you can attempt to move the rider if the road
is busy enough that you can just form a barrier around them (although if you have
the option to safely leave the rider where they are, this is preferred), youcan
help direct traffic thereby keeping the rider motionless and safe from passing
vehicles, or you can just contact the proper authorities and let them do their jobs
if you aren’t confident in your ability to help. Again, that is always a viable option,
sometimes doing nothing but calling 911 is how you can best help.

Address Immediate Emergencies In the Surrounding Area

Before addressing injuries, ensure that the rider is in a position they aren’t likely
to sustain further injury. If they’re in the middle of a road with heavy traffic and it’s
the best option, get them out of the road. If they’re laying on asphalt hot enough
to burn, negate the risk by moving them to a cooler surface or creating a barrier
between them and the ground. If their motorcycle is on top of them and restricting
their break, move it off of them. There are a million potential injuries that could be
in your immediate vicinity, and if you’re wanting to lend meaningful aid, you’ve
taken it upon yourself to do what you can to minimize or negate those risks.

If the injured party’s bike has fallen on them, you may need to lift it off of them to
prevent it from crushing them or injuring them further. Lift with your knees, not your
back. More importantly, beware that you may be dealing with a crashed vehicle
that has sharp or hot parts in close proximity to the injured rider, so you want to be
as efficient as possible in getting the motorcycle off of the rider, donning your nitrile
examination gloves, and providing assistance. It’s also important to remember that
you may be injured by sharp or heated parts if you’re not careful when moving the
bike.

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 Moving An Injured Person
This should only be done in extreme emergencies. The examples listed above
(laying in a road with heavy traffic patterns or laying on a surface that could cause
damage with continued exposure) could count, but so could being trapped under
a vehicle that’s caught fire or requiring you to flip them from laying on their stomach
to where they are laying on their back so you can perform CPR.

Keep in mind that improperly moving an injured person can result in injuries
worsening or permanent damage, especially if the injured area is around the head
or neck. Take care to keep these areas as still as possible if you have reason to
suspect the rider may have injured them.
Call 911
Once you’ve been able to confirm that immediate dangers have been minimized,
it’s time to call emergency services. Fill them in on the condition of the rider, your
condition, your location, and assess approximately when help will be on it’s way. If
the operator on the other end of the line can guide you through what to do until
help arrives, great! Your adrenaline may be pumping, emotions may be intense,
and you may have trouble keeping a calm head on your shoulders. While this is
both understandable and acceptable, it will not help the other rider when you seek
to provide assistance, and the operator on the other end of the line may be able to
help. Even if they can’t, knowing professional help is on the way can help your
state of mind in and of itself.

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Check for Consciousness
If the rider is conscious, your first responsibility before administering any treatment
is to check in with them and attain consent. Assess whether they’re coherent,
whether their injuries look worse than they are and they feel they will bealright until
help arrives, and provide any support they may request (calling a family member,
or even leaving them alone entirely if they ask).

At this point, if you feel the rider may need treatment, ask whether you have their
permission to assist them. If they decline treatment and you believe they’re in a
clear enough state of mind to understand the implications of that decision, do as
they request. If you don’t believe they’re in the state of mind required to make that
decision, and you haven’t already, call 911 and relay the information you’ve
collected to the operator.
Administering Treatment
Although this section will assume that you’re administering treatment on someone
else, most of these steps can be tweaked in order to be of use on yourself. If you’re
not sure where to start or how to proceed after you’ve begun to give the rider
treatment, you can use CABSS to help figure out what to do next:

— Circulation (bleeding)
— Airway
— Breathing
— Shock
— Spinal motion restriction (SMR): A collective term that includes all
methods and techniques used to limit the movement of the spinal column
of a patient with a suspected spinal injury.

When treating injuries, treat injuries to the head, neck, torso, and abdominal
regions first unless a more urgent wound (such as a wound you may fear has
nicked a major vein or artery) could be lethal if not addressed immediately. When
assessing the rider, make sure you assess their entire bodies, not just the areas
that “look” injured. Further inspection may reveal something you missed at first
glance, or a hard-to-find wound that could have gone untreated.

Lastly, always assume risk of head or spinal injury and act with the required care
to not inflict even more damage upon the person.

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 Circulation
The first step in your CABSS checklist is Circulation. The goal here is to find and
treat any clear signs of bleeding.

You’ll want to first remove any jewelry from the injured area as jewelry can cut off
circulation and cause damage if the area swells. Then apply pressure with a
compress of gauze or a clean piece of cloth and elevate the injured location. This
process will help slow the bleeding until help arrives, minimizing blood loss.
Hemostatic Dressing
If you cannot follow the above guidance (such as if the injury is on the rider’s torso
and elevation would be tricky), a hemostatic dressing may be a better option.
These are powders or dressings with special solutions on them that help wounds
to clot more quickly than normal. Apply the dressing and hold firmly, the way you
would with any other dressing.

Because of the makeup of the dressing, make sure you are wearing gloves when
applying the dressing or powder, and your gloves are discarded safely before you
touch anything else.
Pressure Dressings & Tourniquets
An additional way to stop a wound on the arm or leg from bleeding is with a
pressure dressing. What this is, is a piece of gauze or other sort of dressing placed
on top of the wound, wrapped in even more gauze to ensure that it stays securely
in place. This creates a covering that, if applied properly, shouldn’t moveor dislodge
itself from the injury, and will slow or stop bleeding while protecting theinjury from
outside contamination.

If the bleeding is too heavy for a pressure dressing alone, a

tourniquet can be used to stem the bleeding any further. A
tourniquet is a strip of material wound tightly around an arm or leg
above a severe injury, and is a last resort as it relies on fully
cutting off circulation to an area to stop a massive injury from
bleeding. They’re most useful in situations where a potentially
life-threatening injury will not stop bleeding, the limb is crushed
and doesn’t have a singular wound site, or there are multiple
wounds on the limb and you don’t have the resources to stop
Tourniquets are a last ditch
effort but one you must have. them all.

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Begin by taking a piece of cloth or other material (the wider the better — too thin
a piece of fabric, and you could cut into the tissue and cause further injury),
wrapping it around a site above the injury, and using a stick or other something
similar to tighten the bandage until enough pressure is applied to stop thebleeding.
Make sure you know exactly when the tourniquet was applied, the trauma
specialists that arrive to help will need to know. Once applied, leave the tourniquet
alone.
Broken Bone s
While incredibly painful, thankfully broken bones are not generally lethal. The
exception to this rule is if veins or arteries near the sign of the break are severed
in the wreck, or by the bone afterwards.

Generally, supporting the bone you suspect may be broken will be sufficient, either
with your hands or using something to keep it in place. The main goal is to keep
the bones still until help arrives. Unless you have no option and need to move for
some reason, building a curde splint won’t be needed.

If you choose to support the broken bone (i.e. an arm), support the bone above
and below the site of the break, and if possible keep the injury elevated. An icepack
may be placed atop the break to help treat pain and slow swelling.

Airway

The trick to clearing the airway is to settle the head and neck into a relaxed position
that facilitates breathing. Start by looking at the person’s chest, if they’re
unconscious. Is it rising and falling? Good, they’re breathing! If you can’t tell, place
your ear near their mouth and nose. This can help you to both listen for their
breathing, or feel their breath on the side of your face. You can also use a mirror
or your phone screen to test for breathing by holding it in front of their noseand
mouth and seeing if the glass fogs up.

"Further Reading
If you want to learn more about effective ways to treat riders, I
highly recommend you check out Accident Scene Management.

In addition to the trauma kit linked in the first part of this chapter
and the graphics from the Circulation segment of the CABSS
overview, there are a whole lot of great pieces of information you
can pour through to increase your knowledge on the subject.

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 Breathing
If you cannot see, hear, or feel breath coming from the injured rider, sit behind their
head, carefully lift their chin using a Jaw Thrust. Do not use standard CPR head
tilts as they require undue spinal movement.

If there is a helmet in the way, do not remove it unless it is a full face helmet
obstructing access to perform rescque breaths, and you have confirmed that
breaths are necessary.

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To Perform Jaw Thrust Rescue Breathing:
— Place your fingers underneath the hinge of the jaw and push up slightly to thrust
their jaw forward. The combination of lifting their chin and thrusting the jaw forward
may clear the tongue from the throat and enable breathing.
— If simply lifting does not allow them to breathe administer rescue breaths.
— Give 2 one-second long breaths, then 1 more second-long breath every 6 seconds.
Ensure they have enough air, but don’t blow too forcefully.
— Continue rescue breathing until they start breathing on their own, help arrives,
someone is able to take over, or you are to exhausted to continue.

The rider has approximately 5-minutes before brain damage begins to occur, so time is of
the essence. This is where the barrier we recommended you keep in your kit comes in use.
The most important part of rescue breathing is making sureyou have a good seal between
the mask or flat barrier and the injured rider. If youdo this properly, there should be no
leakage of air between you and the injured rider. Additionally, for the same reason you
wear gloves, use a barrier when rescue breathing. You never know if the rider is ill, or if you
are.

To Remove A Rider's Helmet

In most cases you should not risk removing a helmet, but if the rider is wearing a full-face
helmet that impedes your ability to offer aid, you may need to. The greatest risk to removing
the helmet is spinal damage that could leave the rider paralyzed, or damage the brain.

This process is easiest done with two people; one removes the helmet and one stabilizes
the head. If you’re the only one on­scene, do what you can to follow these instructions to
the best of your ability:

— Once you’ve confirmed that the rider is having trouble breathing and will need
rescue breathing, remove the chin strap to the helmet and set their head in a
relaxed, neutral position.
— Rescuer 1 is responsible for stabilizing the head with a hand behind the head at the
base of the skull, and the other on the chin.
— The 2nd person slowly pulls the helmet off from the sides. Be careful not tocatch on
the rider’s face or anything that would jostle the rider’s head.
— The 1st person will move their hand up along with the helmet supporting the rider’s
head until the back of the skull is cradled in the hand.
— Once the helmet is off, one rescuer must support the head at all times fromthat point
forward. If you're alone, slowly let the patient's head down.

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 Injuries to the Chest
Chest injuries are the most common problems you may face when lendingsupport
to crashed riders, and can be identified by a few key symptoms. They may be
coughing (even coughing up blood), laboring to breathe or sucking air likethey’re
trying to breathe through a funnel, panicked, or disoriented. Blue, off-colorlips may
also be a sign of poor oxygenation, and that they may need assistance.

If they’re conscious, they may want to sit rather than lay down. Try and keep them
calm by talking slowly and calmly, and encouraging them to take deep breaths as
further help arrives. If they look like they may pass out try to ensure that they don’t
injure themselves if they do faint, prepare your barrier, and perform rescue
breathing if they fall unconscious. If they do not fall unconscious, there’s no need
to attempt rescue breathing, and this may in fact make things worse.

If the difficulty breathing is due to a broken or dislocated rib, rolling a shirt or jacket
and placing it on the injured arm can help keep pressure off.

Shock
There are many different kinds of shock, which is essentially a reaction your body
has when blood isn’t circulating as efficiently as it should be for one reason or
other. This is an indication that something is very, very wrong and may be
displayed by a number of symptoms such as low blood pressure, a weak pulse but
rapid heart rate, dizziness or fainting, vomiting, and more.

Throughout the course of treatment, watch carefully for changes in the rider’s
condition. If possible, get continued updates from them about their status, so you
have the most up-to-date information to relay to help when medical professionals
arrive. If the person is unconscious, do not move their head in order to place
padding or anything underneath it, as it could disturb them or worsen injuries to
the head or neck. Most importantly, if the rider attempts to move, do not hold them
down or attempt to stop them; try to keep them from injuring themselves in their
movements instead if they will not lay back and relax.
Hypovolemic Shock
This type of shock occurs when an excess of blood is lost. Make sure that you’ve
treated any and all external injuries to the best of your ability.

Pay special attention to injuries to the stomach. These can be much more extreme
than they first appear, as the abdomen can hold up to a liter of blood

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from internal injuries that may not be visible to you. If
they’re complaining about signs of shock and were injured
in a way that makes you suspect they may be bleeding
internally, carefully begin to administertreatment.
Treating Hypovolemic Shock
Help them into the aptly­named “shock position:” laying
flat on their back, with their legs either bent or slightly
elevated. Cover them both to keep them warm and to
protect them if there are any open wounds. In the event that there are organs
protruding from the wound, do not attempt to put them back.

The key here is to keep the rider warm. Keep them dry and out of the wind, cover
them from head to toe, and if you have access to them, set hot packs near areas
that are prone to losing heat quickly, such as the armpits, neck, or groin. Make
sure that a layer goes between the hot packs and skin, to prevent further injury.
Neurogenic Shock
Neurogenic shock occurs when a traumatic spinal cord injury occurs — such as
in the event of an awful motorcycle crash. Wounds or fractures to the skull or scalp,
swelling and bruising across the face, a bleeding nose or stiff neck, and a loss of
consciousness can be signs of potential neurogenic shock. The rider couldalso be
concussed, or suffering from brain swelling as a result of impact with the skull.

Unlike neurogenic shock, there’s not much that can be done for treatment by non-
professionals. If they are bleeding from the head, it’s important to remember to
treat these wounds differently than you would wounds on the rest of the body: Do.
Not. Apply. Pressure. This can apply a dangerous amount of pressure to the brain
if they have a skull fracture, causing further injury. Cover the site with gauze and
carefully wrap it to help stop the bleeding.
Psychogenic Shock
This sort of shock is not unique to the injured party. Beware that you will likely be
suffering from it, as well! Psychogenic shock is the result of being placed in a
stressful situation. Those suffering from psychogenic shock may faint, or exhibit
any of the other generalized shock symptoms listed above.

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 If you are suffering from psychogenic shock, you’re still okay to attempt treatment
on someone who is injured. It will just require a high degree of self-monitoring, or
being doubly careful of what you say and how you act. Force yourself to look and
sound calm, even if you’re pretending, and be firm with your treatment (if it’s
accepted) without yelling — remember, as stressed as you may be, this is the
rider’s emergency, not yours. Continue to talk to the rider, even if they aren’t
responding. It gives both them and you something to focus on, which can help.

Spinal Motion Restriction (SMR)

Spinal injuries are some of the scariest around due to their unpredictability. If
you’re worried the rider may have experienced an injury to their spine, be on the
lookout for the following symptoms:

— Soreness, tenderness or pain

— Body parts that are suddenly numb, weak, or tingling
— Sudden paralysis — localized or across the body
— Difficulty breathing
— Loss of control over bladder and bowels or other parts of the body

A spinal cord injury is unpredictable. Instead of trying to treat it, the best you can
do is offer support by immobilizing the spine in a neutral position to prevent injuries
from worsening, or additional injuries from taking place. Begin by informing the
rider of what you’re about to do, so they don’t panic and attempt to move. Without
covering the riders ears or putting pressure on their neck, help therider keep their
spine in place. Be sure, before you begin, that you’re in a comfortable position, as
you’ll have to hold this position until help arrives.
Traumatic Brain Injury
Traumatic Brain Injury (TBI) is an injury to the brain resulting from an external
force such as a blow to the head. TBIs are associated with temporary and/or
permanent impairment to brain function, including physical, emotional and
cognitive damage. A common type is a concussion.

A concussion can result from even a seemingly minor bump, blow, or jolt to the
head or neck and may be tricky to recognize. Many crash victims who experience
a concussion do not lose consciousness. Others may only lose consciousness
very briefly. Your best clues that a motorcycle rider may have a concussion are
often changes in their behavior after they have experienced a bump, blow, or jolt.

For example, the rider may seem confused, dazed, or stunned; lose the ability to
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remember or follow simple instructions; or repeatedly ask what happened. The
rider may complain of a headache, feel nauseated or vomit, have blurred or
doubled vision, complain of dizziness, or be especially sensitive to light or noise.

Many crash victims who experienced concussions say that the concussion caused
them to feel “sluggish”, “groggy”, or “just not right.” If you think that a motorcycle
rider has sustained a concussion, advise them to stop and lay down. This is the
time to call 911 and get Emergency Medical Services on scene.

Know What to Do in an Emergency Situation It Will Save Lives!

When you’re in the midst of an emergency is the worst time to be pouring through
this chapter for the first time. Even if you don’t take a full CPR, Accident Scene
Management, or Motorcycle Training Concepts course, take an afternoon every
so often to either learn basic first aid skills you’ll need to know, or check up on your
bike’s first aid kit and make sure it’s prepared in the event of an emergency.

These skills could very well save a life one day, maybe even your own.

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 S.M.A.R.T. Rider Principles - T

T — Teaches & Mentors Other Motorcycle Riders

Instead of focusing on how you can be a S.M.A.R.T. Rider, the T is meant to help
you pass these lessons on to those around you. As the saying goes, the best way
to learn something is to teach someone else.

You may be a newer rider with a year or two of experience under your belt helping
your friend buy a bike and showing them the ropes. Or maybe you’re a parent
who’s been riding for decades and you now want to introduce your child to the
lifestyle. Whatever the case, being forced to put on a new helmet and focus on
teaching instead of directly improving your skills can force you to think about these
processes in entirely different ways. Remember the concept of neuroplasticity?
Whenever you force yourself to learn something new, or you experience
something new, your brain physically changes to take in the lesson you’ve learned.
By helping others in your community, you help yourself as well.

Teaching your community about motorcycling best practices is great for helping
you learn, but it’s also great for keeping those around you safe. Motorcyclists
knowing the rules and laws while on the road helps keep everyone on the same
page, which can help improve safety — although, if you’ve learned anything about
being a S.M.A.R.T. Rider, you should know better than to rely on that.

If you’re interested in learning how to pass on your knowledge because you don’t
quite know how, we pulled together a number of resources that should help. These
are split into two sections: what skills and traits you should have yourselfto help
others learn, and how to identify learning styles in others, so you canmore
accurately adapt to how they will best learn.

Another reason being a mentor can help the community around you is by getting
rid of barriers that may stop someone from getting into motorcycling because they
just don’t know where to start. Learn the material inside classrooms, inside this
book, from experience, and so on. Relay that material to your mentee. While
they’re going to need (and should want!) to take in­person classes themselves,
becoming a font of information and resources is a great way to encourage
someone you know to take that leap.

You can even lend them books like this one so they can learn information they
may find useful without having to purchase their own!

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How To Be an Excellent Mentor

Being an excellent mentor starts with experience; you can’t mentor someone if you
don’t know what you’re talking about, or if they know more than you. But remember
that experience is relative, and you don’t have to ride for years before you can
teach someone what you’ve learned. Some of our best mentors can be friends or
colleagues whose grasp of the information they’re mentoring us on is only slightly
more in-depth than ours.

Excellent mentors are also those who can help others grow, and are happy to do
so. While the grumpy old sage trope may be what many of us think of when we
imagine a mentor, the most impactful mentors are those who are excited to teach,
which can create or deepen a sense of excitement in the mentee.

More important than any inherent skill at teaching is excitement and desire, and
the ability to accept feedback if the way you’re teaching just isn’t doing it for your
mentee. Mentee/mentor relationships are more than just transfers of information
— they’re partnerships, and every partnership is different.

Some breakdowns of this topic that have been really helpful would be 7 Qualities
That Make A Good Mentor, and How to be a Great Mentor by Kenneth Ortiz. They
tread a lot of the same ground, which should give you a pretty good idea of the
role we think a mentor should play in the life of those they’re helping to grow.

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Learn in g To Tailor Y our Lesson s F or Success

There’s more to being a mentor than just knowing how to teach. You also have to
know how to adapt to how your mentee learns.

This is a process that involves a lot of trial and error, and will eventually end up
with you having a unique teaching process that you’ve built over a period of years
or decades of instruction. Because of how individualized this process can be, it’s
hard to tell you what the right way to teach is because, simply put, there isn’t one.

How you teach depends, first and foremost, upon your strengths as a teacher. Are
you a strong verbal communicator? Do you have an eye for detail, and can help
correct problems with a student’s posture before it solidifies into bad habits?
Maybe you’re an avid bookworm, and your library is overflowing with important,
useful information you learned after years of pouring through books on thesubjects
you find interesting. Whatever your strengths may be, utilize them as you move
forward in your mentorships.

Keep in mind, however, that the most important part of a mentorship is learning
how to teach your mentee in a way that makes sense to them. Everyone learns
differently, has different motivations for wanting to learn new skills, and gets pulled
into lessons differently. The beginning of your mentorship may be a bit of a
give-and-take as you figure out how to teach at the level your mentee is at, and
they learn to adapt to your mentorship style, and that’s okay.

Be careful, though, that you don’t push too hard during this process to force the
mentee to accept your teaching style. You’re a mentor, a guide. It’s not your job to
force this skill upon them, but to help them enjoy it in the same way you do.

If you want more information, start with Valamis’s article 8 Adult Learning
Principles, or How to Engage the 7 Types of Learners in Your Classroom. They’re
full of tons of valuable information.

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 A FINAL NOTE

Let's talk about the culture of motorcycling

Motorcycle riders are typically portrayed in the media as rebels without a cause.

Adrenaline junkies who throw caution to the wind as they ride mile-long wheelies
down the road at 100mph, or outlaws involved in clubs, as depicted in shows like
Sons of Anarchy.

While these displays are overdramatized and inaccurate representations of the

average rider, many have their interest piqued and flock to motorcycle riding
because of these perceptions. There are some clubs and groups of riders that do
display elements of the above archetypes, but those are the groups of riders that
normally wind up killing or seriously injuring themselves relatively quickly.

Fortunately, this perception is beginning to change in riders of all skill levels.

Even longtime riders are starting to make changes, taking the keys of friends who
have had too much to drink and beginning to wear safety gear for the first time in
their decades-long riding careers.

Unfortunately, the “old­school” riders that are making

these alterations to their riding are beginning to change
because those that do not are incredibly likely to die on
the road. Many of these riders either paid the price and
were involved in accidents that occurred on account of
their own recklessness, or have lost friends in accidents
that could have been prevented.

To many on the outside looking in, the most popular and

problematic view of “biker culture” is the one that depicts
riders wearing leather jackets and popular motorcycle
brand t-shirts, spending wild nights out at bars with fellow
bikers, and driving home intoxicated to sleep off that
night’s drunkenness — all just to go out and do it again.

This careless, reckless attitude has long been sanctioned

by a subset of riders as well as certain motorcycle makers
and dealerships in an attempt to make

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 motorcycling seem exciting and dangerous. It generates profits in an already-
profitable industry. Many dealership-sponsored events serve alcohol to attendees,
and motorcycle bar crawls are still incredibly common (or rather, were pre-COVID).
These activities more or less pave the way for new riders to make the same
mistakes as the old-school ones by encouraging these behaviors.

Why Is It So Common?
For many, partaking in biker culture isn’t about riding at all. It’s about the
camaraderie that comes from belonging to a group, and how others will perceive
them if they’re accepted. A young adult trying to prove themselves or a middle­
aged professional having a desperate need to escape from a life they may see as
boring and mundane may purchase a cruiser on a whim.

After riding out to the nearest “biker bar” they can find in hopes they can make it
with the in-group, they may begin to drink and show off, fundamentally
misunderstanding that motorcycling is more than just a social club. Or a group of
old friends may seek to relive their youthful years by riding to a bar and catching
up over a few beers.

Peer pressure is also an important factor in how and why this culture is being
perpetuated. Some old-school bikers don’t want to see their culture and
community fade away like it is and tend to lash out against those that either change
or won’t participate. Others are second or third­generation riders, and
recklessness was taught to them from a young age. So much so that they have
trouble separating their risk-threshold and drinking limit from riding. Worse, they're
part of clubs where that’s the norm.

Another reason that people may be encouraged to ride recklessly or drink before
riding is that they haven’t seen any friends or loved ones killed on the road.
Unfortunately, it can take a serious injury or even death for some to see that
motorcycle riding is an activity that carries with it substantial risk.

Is There A Solution?
The easiest solution is to simply not participate.

If you’re at a rally or a bar crawl, don’t drink unless you have a way to get home
that doesn’t involve riding, and don’t ride near those that are. Many riders won’t risk
their lives or their motorcycles by drinking or riding in a risky, stupid manner
because motorcycle repairs and hospital bills are expensive, and they also often
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won’t ride with those that they think will put them at risk.

What this means for you as a rider is that you may avoid
riding with certain friends or family members unless they
agree to change how they ride, or altogether switching
who you choose to ride with. Riding with the right group
can and will make the difference.

This Is About You

If those you ride with are encouraging you to cut corners, take risks, or ride in ways
that will put you in danger, you have a decision to make. You can’t force anyone
else to ride safely, or to stop taking risks with their riding. All you can do isrefuse to
ride with them any more.

Biker culture is as much hobbyist side of motorcycling as it is a social club.

If the group of riders you do most of your riding with are people that you don’t feel
comfortable riding with, find a group that shares values with you. Ideally you want
to look for a group of smart and responsible riders, people you feel as comfortable
on the road with as you do off of it. Plenty of charities host rides for motorcyclists,
or fundraisers for good causes, and combine that sense of community that draws
many riders with a good purpose. Find a reason to ride in away conscious of those
around you.

Even if you personally are drawn to riding because of that aspect of danger and
excitement, there are groups that focus on generating that adrenaline rush in a
way that’s not liable to end with riders laying out their bikes or hurting and killing
themselves such as closed-circuit tracks. Find a group that knows how to control
the risks being taken on the road.

"Join The Crew!

If you want to be a part of an inclusive motorcycle community, the
DDFM Crew is always available. We have 1000s of members on
our public Discord server, and a ton more resources at
MotorcycleTrainingConcepts.com. If you ever need somewhere to
fit in and a culture to join, we’d be lucky to have you!

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