Mew Plush Sewing Pattern

mew
PLUSH
a free sewing pattern by

mew plush 2 free sewing tutorial
mew plush
The legendary last Pokemon in the Kanto Pokedex, it's
Mew! This mysterious and mischievous little guy is
skills used:
extremely impish and cute. It has a small body with a • Fusible web applique
rounded, cat-like head. It also has tiny arms, big feet, and a • Curved sewing
curvy tail. • Basting
The tail would be a great opportunity for wiring so it's • Darts
posable. So there is both a curved tail option if you'd • Ladder stitch
rather not wire it, or a straight option that's much easier • Sewing small pieces
for wiring and posing. • Matching notches and points
difficulty: makes:
One plush: about 6" tall from
The most difficult part of this plush is matching all the bottom of body to top of head,
points in the curves of the ear and legs. The arms, feet, 4½" wide from each side of head,
and tail are also sewn on by hand, so give yourself more and 4½" long from nose to back of
time for that. body.
tiny
ears
wired
curved tail
tail
arms &
feet sewn
on by
hand
sew desu ne?

| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2022 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
materials & tools:

• ¼ yd. of pink fabric for main body • applique supplies:
• optional wire supplies for • 3" x 3" scrap of white applique fabric
adjustable tail for eye whites and eye shines
• 15" of 10-12 gauge jewelry wire • 3" x 3" scrap of blue applique fabric
• about 30" of 1" wide thin scrap for irises
material, like cotton, fleece, or flannel • 2" x 2" scrap of light blue applique
• jewelry pliers fabric for eye highlights
• wire cutter • 2" x 2" scrap of pink applique fabric
• hot glue for paw pads
• poly pellets (poly pellets are used to • 6" x 6” piece of light or heavy duty
help offset the weight of the wired fusible web
tail) • sewing thread to match main fabric and
• 9" x 4" of scrap fabric for poly pellet applique fabrics
puch • poly-fil stuffing
• Spoon or funnel for filling poly • basic sewing tools (sewing machine,
pellets scissors, iron, needles, pins, fabric
marker, seam ripper)
pliers wire cutter

10-12 gauge & wire is built in
jewelry wire cutter
fusible web: lightweight heavyweight

fusible fusible
• Fusible web adhesive is a sheet of adhesive with a
paper backing.
Not to be confused with fusible interfacing,
which is adhesive attached to a fabric/fiber
backing.
• Some common brands are Pellon & HeatnBond
• In countries outside the US, it may also be known
as bondaweb
• It comes in light and heavy duty varieties.
Lightweight strength is meant for applique you
intend to sew later. Heavy duty versions are for
a no-sew bond. If you try to sew them later your
machine might have trouble penetrating the glue.
sew desu ne?

fa bric com p a r is on:
fe lt cotton j e r s ey f le e ce m i nky
suggested fabrics:
long pile minky
minky or fleece
Medium weight, plush fabrics with about
minky 20%-30% stretch along the crosswise grain work
best for this project. The varieties shown to the left
are some good options and names to look for. Try
cuddle fleece to avoid heavyweight versions of fleece that are
intended for outdoor apparel or they may cause
trouble for the detailed areas.
You can also use non-stretch fabrics (such as felt),
micro fleece but be aware that the curves will be more difficult
to sew and the result will look different. The plush
will become more elongated and the edges will
anti-pill fleece look harder.
10" of minky
stretches to 13"
= 30% stretch
fleece
minky vs. felt
sew desu ne?

printing the pattern:

Set your computer to print
pages 27-29.
If you’re unfamiliar with
printing and assembling a
.pdf pattern, read the steps to
follow.
For the best results, use
a .pdf reader like Adobe
Reader. That's what is 1 2
shown here and will give you At the print dialog box, check Print the pages needed for
the most control over the the box that says print at the file. You might have one
settings. “Actual Size” or 100%. Any or more. Either way, be sure
other selection (such as “Fit to you have the full collection by
page”) will distort the pattern noting the page numbers in the
so it’s slightly larger or smaller corner.
and we don’t want that.
3 4 5
It’s likely your printer will have To line up the pattern pages, You can trace the patterns onto
a margin that ensures your match up the corresponding a different paper, or you can
image doesn’t print to the very diamond shapes. Each diamond also just cut them straight from
edge. Assembly will be easier if will have a letter, so it’s simply the printer paper -- be sure
you trim off this blank margin a matter of matching A1 to A2, that each piece is fully taped
edge. This will give you pages B3 to B4 and so on. The faint together along the joins so they
that overlap slightly during gray lines indicate the border of don’t fall apart when you cut
assembly. If you trim across the every page, you should be able them.
gray outline boxes, this will give to line those up as well. When
you pages that don’t overlap the diamond goes together,
but rather butt against each tape it in place.
other.
If you have many pages, it’s
easier to tape up the pages into
rows first. Then tape the rows
together into a full block.
sew desu ne?

cutting the fabric:
1 2 3 4
Place pattern on the fabric, Pin the pattern in place, use Using the paper as a For all fur fabrics, shake the
and make sure the stretch pattern weights, or trace the template, cut out the fabric. excess fuzz away.
line matches the stretch outline of the pattern with a Cut the required amount
of the fabric. The nap line washable marker. according to the pattern.
should go in the direction of
the fur.
cutting layout:
STRE TCH
main body fabric
F F
¼ yd.; 9” long
B B
G I I
D
G C
D
NAP
A A E E H H H H I I J1 J1
41" wide
scrap fabric
J1 works best
for a tail with
optional no wire
4” long
K K poly pellet
pouch for
use J2 for a
wired tail
offsetting
9" wide weight of
wired tail
before you begin:

• Briefly read the project instructions so you know what to expect.
• If desired, mark the cut fabric pieces with the markings and symbols from the pattern. Or
wait until the applicable step before transferring.
• Note that a ¼" seam allowance is used throughout the project, which is included in the
pattern templates.
sew desu ne?

eye whites, shines: white hold applique while

trace onto pulling paper away
paper side iris: blue
eye highlight: light blue
a. b.
1. prepare the face applique c.
a. Grab your fusible web and applique templates. Trace the face and foot templates. You'll need:
• eye white (2) • irises (2) • eye highlights (2)
• eye shines (6) • foot pads (2)
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side of the fusible web onto the applique fabrics, following the color
guides on the paper templates:
• eye whites & eye shines on white • irises on blue
• iris highlights on light blue • foot pads on pink
c. Cut out your applique pieces and grab your two head front pieces (A). Grab your first applique
layer, the eye whites. Set your paper pattern on top of the head front piece. Align the applique piece
on top where the placement markings are. Next, carefully pull the paper pattern away while holding
the applique piece in place.
add remaining
fuse eyes add small pieces
first irises
next
d. e. f.
d. Fuse the first applique layer (the eye whites) with your iron. Use a press cloth, such as a scrap piece
of cotton. This will help protect any polyester or fuzzy fabrics from melting or scorching.
e. Add the next layer, the irises.
f. Continue building up the eye with the next piece, the eye highlights. Arrange and fuse it the same as
the other pieces using the paper pattern (and the photo) as a guide.
Lastly, add the smallest pieces like the eye shines.
Make sure you have both sides of the head when complete.
sew desu ne?

2. applique the other pieces

a. Take this time to also applique your other
body pieces using the same method. Two of foot
the feet (I) need foot pads. pads
for feet
If you used heavy duty fusible web, you can
keep the pieces fused without sewing, or you
can sew them in place a number of ways. I’ve
used a zigzag stitch here.
→ Refer to the next step for some other
applique options.
4
2
straight stitch; applique 3
great for felt whipstitch 1
2a. other applique options

a. Other good options for applique include a straight stitch, which involves sewing around the edge of
the applique pieces with a straight stitch using matching thread -- about 1/8” in from the edge.
b. You can also applique by hand; I prefer a whipstitch. Thread a hand-sewing needle with some
matching thread and knot it. Bring the thread up from the back of the project; about 1/8” in from the
edge of the applique shape. Bring it down perpendicular from the curve, just outside of the applique
shape. This completes one stitch.
c. For the next stitch, bring the needle back up about 1/8” away from the previous stitch and 1/8” in
from the edge just as in the first stitch. Once again, bring it down just outside the applique shape.
Continue this way until you’ve sewn around the shape.
sew desu ne?

fold
along
point of
dart
blend
stitching repeat for
3. sew the head front darts

into fold both darts
a. Grab both of your head front pieces (A) that have the eyes
appliqued. These pieces have a dart along the bottom that
helps form the shape of the head. They're the small wedges darts:
cut into the main shape. They're also labeled on the paper Darts are a v-shaped wedge sewn
pattern for easy identification. into a pattern piece that create a
3D shape in the fabric.
Start by folding the fabric along the point of the dart so the
right sides are facing and the raw edges match up. The two lines of the darts are
sometimes called the legs. These
b. Sew from the opening of the dart down to the fold of the lead up to the point.
fabric. Try to blend your stitching into the fold of the fabric
for a smooth transition and a rounder finish to the stuffed You can think of darts like a partial
plush. seam. One that only goes part-way
through the fabric.
c. When complete, each head front piece should have one dart
along the bottom.
a. Grab your two ear front

pieces (B). These will be head front will clip into seam
join to ears allowance at
attached to the inner curves inner curve
of your head front (A) next.
These pieces have numbered
points for easy identification,
points 3 and 4.
b. To make the alignment a little
easier, it helps to make small
clips into the seam allowance
of the inner curve on the
head front. This will allow the
fabric to stretch more. 4. prep the front ears
sew desu ne?

stretch inner
curve to fit sew from repeat for
points 3 to 4 both ears
3 4
5. sew the front ears

a. Stretch the inner curve of the head front (A) to match up with the front ear (B). Points 3 and 4
should match up. This will help ensure the ears aren't attached backwards.
b. Sew the head front to the ear from points 3 to 4.
c. Repeat with your remaining head front and ear piece so you have both sides of the head.
sew
along
center
front only
6. sew the center head front

a. Take one of your head front pieces (A) and align it with the other so right sides are facing and the
raw edges match up.
b. Sew the pieces together along the center edge. Sew from the top corner down to the bottom corner.
c. Open up the pieces when complete.
sew desu ne?

inner legs will

join to belly
line up
notches
1 1
2 2
sew from
7. sew the inner legs

point 1 to 2
a. Grab your inner leg pieces (D) and your belly (C). The inner curve on both the belly and inner legs
will match up next. They're labeled with points 1 and 2 for easy alignment.
b. Align the inner curve of the inner leg with the inner curve of the belly. Match up the notches on the
inner legs with the notches on the belly. Also line up points 1 and 2.
c. Sew the inner leg to the belly along the inner curve from points 1 to 2. Repeat with the other inner
leg piece so both are joined.
head front will line up center marking sew along the finished
join to body with front seam neck edge body front
a. b. c. d.
8. sew the front neck
a. Grab your head front piece from before (A) and your body front so far. The neck edges of both
of these pieces will be joined next.
The neck edge on the belly is marked with a circle marking in the center for easy alignment.
b. Layer the head front over the body front, matching up the raw edges and circle marking at the
center head seam. Pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the head front to the body front along this neck edge.
d. Open up the pieces when complete.
→ This completes the front half of the body! Set it aside for a moment while we work on the
back of the body.
sew desu ne?

fold
along
point of
dart
blend seam repeat for

9. sew the back head darts into fold both darts
a. Grab your head back pieces (E). These pieces also have darts along the bottom like the head front.
Sew them the same way, starting by folding the fabric along the point of the dart. This should match
up the slanted edges.
b. Sew from the opening of the dart into the fold of the fabric.
c. Repeat this for both head side pieces so you have two darts total.
head back will repeat for

join to back ears stretch inner sew from both ears
curve to fit points 5 to 6
6 5
a. b. c. d.
10. sew the back ears
a. Grab your head back (E) and ear back (F) pieces. We're going to repeat steps 5-6 but with the
back of the head instead. This begins with finding the two edges with points 5 and 6. Clip the seam
allowance in the inner curve of the head back.
b. Stretch the inner curve of the head back to match up the edge on the ear back. Line up points 5 and
6 to ensure the ear isn't attached backwards.
c. Sew the head back to the ear from points 5 to 6.
d. Repeat for both head back pieces for two ears total.
sew desu ne?

leave
open for
turning
11. sew the head back

a. Take your head back pieces (E & F) and align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching
up.
b. If you haven't already, locate the opening for turning markings found on the paper pattern for the
head back. Transfer them over to the wrong side of the fabric. Sew the head back pieces together
along this edge only, but leave the opening that you marked.
→ Set aside your head back for a little while as we work on the body back.
fold
along
point of
dart
repeat for both

blend seam back pieces
into fold
12. sew the body darts

a. Grab your body back pieces (G). This piece also has a dart, found in the bottom corner. Sew it
similar to the others, starting by folding it along the point of the dart and matching the slanted lines.
b. Sew starting at the opening and work toward the point. Try to blend your stitching into the fold of
the fabric. This will create a rounder finish for your plush.
c. Repeat with your remaining body back piece for two darts total.
sew desu ne?

wavy tail (J1): straight tail (J2):
leave leave
open for open for
turning turning
13. sew the tail

a. Before we finish sewing the body, we're going to sew the tail. Grab your tail pieces (J1 or J2). Align
them with right sides together and the edges matching up.
b. Sew the tail pieces together around the long curved edge. Leave the short straight edge free for
turning the piece right side out later.
a. Trim the excess seam

allowance at any inner and trim
outer curves. This will reduce seam if not using
allowances wire: stuff
bulk and increase flexibility at curves semi-firmly
when the piece is turned.
Turn the tail right side out
through the opening in the
end.
b. Now is where the
instructions divert:
If you don't plan to use
wire in your tail: stuff the
tail now. Fill it semi-firmly, 14.
turn & stuff the tail
just enough so it takes shape
and the rounded end looks full. Then move onto step 15.
If you do plan to use wire in the tail: Don't stuff the tail yet. Hold onto the tail until after the rest
of the plush is sewn. Skip ahead to step 16.
sew desu ne?

basting:
align tail baste
above body within seam
dart allowance A form of temporary
sewing meant to hold
pieces in place. A long
stitch length is often
used for this reason.
The finished result is
not meant to be seen
and sometimes is even
removed later (depending
on your project).
15. baste the tail
a. If you haven't already, note the tail markings found on the paper pattern for the body back (G).
These also serve as placement lines if you're using a non-wired tail.
Take your stuffed tail (J1) and align it over the placement lines, slightly above the body back dart.
b. Baste the tail in place within the seam allowance to hold it in place for future steps.
align leaven
body open for tail
pieces later
16. sew the body back

a. Take your two body back (F) pieces and align them with right sides facing and the raw edges
matching up.
b. Sew them together along the edge with the dart from step 12.
If you are using a tail without wire: you'll be securing the tail into the seam during this step.
If you are later adding a tail with wire: leave a tail opening where it's indicated on the paper
pattern above the body dart.
sew desu ne?

line up sew along

neck edge the
center seams finished
head
back body
will join back
to body
a. b. c. d.
17. sew the back neck
a. Grab your head back pieces from before (E) and your body back (F). The neck edges of both of
these pieces will be joined next.
b. Layer the head back over the body back, matching up the raw edges and the center seams. Pin the
fabrics together.
c. Sew the head back to the body back along this neck edge.
d. Open up the pieces when complete.
a. Grab both of your front and line center

back pieces so far. Align top seams
them with right sides facing. sew
We're going to sew around around
head
the entire body. Experts
should be able to handle this
all in one go, but we're going
to break it down into several
parts for beginners.
Start by aligning the head

pieces. Match up the head
front seam with the head
back seam. The neck seams
18. sew the head front & back
(from steps 8 and 20) and b. Sew the head front to the back all the way around, starting at one
the ear seams (from steps 5 side of the neck and going to the other. Don't forget to pivot at
and 10) should also match up. the ears.
sew desu ne?

a. Next, line up the body pieces.

This is the edge starting at
the neck and going down to line
up
point 1. Pin the inner leg (D) body
to the outer leg (F). It starts pieces
at point 1 and goes around to
point 2. Repeat on the other 1
side with the other leg. Pin 2
the fabrics together.
b. Sew from the neck down to
point 1 at the top of the leg. sew
Next sew around the leg, around leg
from point 1 to point 2. 19. sew the leg
a. At the edge between the

legs, the center point on the
belly (C) will match up with
the back seam (from step
19). Pin and sew between the 1
legs, from one point 2 to the
other. 2 2
b. Lastly, finish up the other sew

2
side by repeating step 19 in between

the other direction. Sew from legs sew
point 2 to 1, then up the side, around
other leg
ending at the neck seam.
When complete, you should 20. finish the body
have stitching around the
entire body. You can check at
points 1 and 2 for any gaps.
You can also check the neck
seam.
sew desu ne?

trim outer
curves
clip seam
allowance the
at corners finished
body
21. clip & turn the body

a. Finish by trimming and clipping the seam allowances at the corners and curves. Begin with the outer
corners at the tips of the ears.
b. Then clip the seam allowances at the corners of the body, particularly at the neck seam and points 1
and 2. This will help reduce bulk and increase flexibility when the piece is turned later.
c. Turn the body right side out through the opening in the back of the head.
→ If you're using wire for your tail, continue below. Or if your tail won't have wire, skip ahead to
step 26B.
wrap strip
fold over each glue wire to around wire
end of wire fabric at an angle
continue
gluing as
you go
22. wrap the wire
a. If you're using wire for the tail, take this time to prep it now. Grab your wire, your jewelry pliers,
your hot glue gun, and the strip of thin scrap fabric.
Begin by bending over the ends of the wire with the pliers to eliminate the sharp ends. Bend the wire
onto itself by about ½" on both ends.
b. Next, use the hot glue to wrap the fabric around the wire. Begin with a dollop of glue on the end of
the fabric. Then press the wire into the glue so the strip is at an angle as shown. Fold the ends of the
fabric over the end of the wire.
c. From there, cover sections of the fabric in glue, then carefully wrap it around the wire. Keep the
fabric strip at an angle so it wraps down the length of the wire.
sew desu ne?

insert tail
through back
insert of body
into the
tail
complete
wrapping the
wire
23. insert the tail

a. Continue wrapping the wire until it's entirely covered. Then fold over the ends of the fabric and
secure it with more glue as necessary.
b. Grab your tail from before (J1 or J2). Insert the wire into the tail so it reaches the tip. There will be a
good bit leftover coming out of the opening.
c. Grab your sewn body so far. Insert the end of the wire through the tail opening you left in the back
and into the body.
a. Take your wire and wrap it

around itself to make a circle. wrap extra wire settle wire
This will create a base for the into a circle on bottom
tail so it's sturdy inside the of body
body of the plush.
b. Bend and settle the base of
the tail along the bottom of
Mew's body so it's as flat as
you can get it.
24. create the tail base
sew desu ne?

leave open
for filling fill until close up by
almost full hand
25. sew the poly pellet pouch

a. Grab your poly pellet pouch (K) pieces. If you haven’t already, transfer the opening for filling
markings found on the paper pattern for the pellet pouch.
Take your two pellet pouch pieces and align them together (either way facing; doesn’t matter). Sew
around the perimeter of the oval, leaving an opening as indicated by the markings.
b. Fill the pouch with poly pellets until it’s almost full. I like to use a spoon for this, but some people
prefer a funnel.
c. Once you’ve finished, thread a hand sewing needle and stitch the opening closed with a whip stitch
or back stitch. You can also sew it by machine, but go very slowly or just use the hand wheel. Sewing
over a pellet will very likely break a needle.
stuff body sneak

insert pouch halfway stuffing
into body into legs
26. stuff the body

a. If you have a poly pellet pouch, take it and insert it into the body of your plush through the
opening in the head. Rest it over the wire base you created in step 24.
b. Then stuff the rest of the body over the pouch. Fill the body about halfway with stuffing.
c. While the body is halfway stuffed, sneak extra bits of stuffing into each leg. Having stuffing in the
body will help keep the leg stuffing in place. Fill up the last of the body when the legs are stuffed
firmly and there are no wrinkles in the seams.
sew desu ne?

bring needle
stuff sneak out near
nose stuffing one edge of
firmly into ears opening
27. stuff the head

a. Next, fill up the head with stuffing. Be sure to get plenty in the nose area so there are no wrinkles in
the seams or darts.
b. While the head is almost full, sneak some stuffing into the ears. This will help keep the ear stuffing
from falling out. Lastly, stuff the rest of the head until it's firm.
c. Once the plush is stuffed, make sure the seam allowances in the opening are tucked inside and
prepare to ladder stitch it closed. Thread a hand-sewing needle and knot it at the end. Insert the
needle from the inside of the opening and out of the plush near one edge of the opening. This will
leave the knot inside the plush.
ladder bring pull at thread

stitch needle out while clipping
closed 1"-2" away
28. sew the plush closed

a. Continue from here doing a ladder stitch. Take a 1/8” stitch into the
fold of one side of the opening, then go across and take another. Keep
going down the opening until you reach the end. 1
2
b. When you’re finished, stitch a knot into the end of the seam. Then
insert the needle near the finished knot and out of the plush about
1-2” away.
c. Pull the thread through and hold it taut while snipping the thread. 4
3 seam allowance
The excess thread should sink back inside the plush -- all hidden! (folded inside)
sew desu ne?

wired tail: non-wired tail:
ladder
stitch tail
to body secure tip:
tail to Adjust the wire at the
head base of the body (not
just the tail itself) to
help keep the body
sitting upright.
29. secure the tail

a. If your tail is wired, you'll want to tuck under the seam allowances at the base of the tail, then
ladder stitch it to the back corner of the body.
b. If your tail is not wired, you may want to secure it in place so it stays pointing up. Ladder stitch a
small bit of the tail to the back of the head so it doesn't flop down.
trace seam
line from paper repeat for
pattern both arms
30. sew the arms

a. Grab your arm pieces (H). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. The tiny fingers are a little detailed, so if you need help sewing them accurately, it helps to transfer
the stitching line from the paper template. Trim away the seam allowance from the template along
the fingers. Then use it as a tracing template on the wrong side of the fabric.
c. Sew them together all the way around the traced line.
sew desu ne?

trim seam cut through

allowance one layer of
between fabric only stuff
fingers lightly
31. turn & stuff the arms

a. Trim the excess seam allowance around the tips of the fingers.
b. To turn the pieces, cut a 1" slit through one layer of the fabric only, near the base. There's also a
cutting guide on the paper pattern for extra help.
c. Stuff the arms lightly with stuffing. Give them just enough so they take shape. You may want to put
small bits in the fingers so they take shape as well.
align
between sew
head & leg around arm
seam for
shoulder
lift up
arm to sew
underneath
32. attach the arms

a. Take one of the arms and align it over the body. Place the cut side of the arm down onto the belly
(C) right between the inner leg (D) and the neck seam.
b. Ladder stitch the arms to the body, going around the cut from step 31. Sew near the arm seam when
attaching the shoulder.
c. For the underside of the arm, you'll have to flip it up and sew beneath the arm.
Repeat for both arms.
sew desu ne?

sew around
both feet
cut
through
back
(blank)
foot layer
33. sew the feet

a. Grab all of your feet pieces (I). Take two of them, one with the appliqued foot pad and one blank
one. Align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. Sew entirely around the foot shape. Repeat with your remaining feet pieces for two total.
c. To turn the pieces, cut a 1" slit through the blank layer of fabric only, near the base. There's also a
cutting guide on the paper pattern for extra help.
trace stitching
lines bring
needle out
stuff at bottom
feet of line
lightly
34. begin the needle sculpting

a. Stuff the feet (I) semi-firmly with stuffing. Give it enough so there
are no wrinkles around the outer edges of the fabric.
b. Next, we're going to use needle sculpting to create the toes. These
needle
are lines hand-stitched into the outside of the foot. Begin by sculpting:
transferring the stitching lines from the paper pattern. A form of shaping on a
Next, grab the longest hand sewing needle you have. Thread it with finished plush using thread
heavy duty thread (or doubled-over all-purpose thread if you don’t to pull in and contour areas of
an otherwise smooth surface.
have heavy-duty) and knot the end. Because it is done from the
c. Grab one of your feet. Insert the needle through the opening you've outside, it counteracts the
cut. Bring the needle out at the bottom of one of your stitching outward force of the stuffing
lines. inside the plush.
sew desu ne?

insert into back and pull gently to

wrap through same point create the toe
thread
around
foot
35. wrap the toes

a. Pull the thread through, then wrap the thread around the foot.
b. Insert the needle into the bottom of the stitching line on the other side of the foot. It should be
directly opposite the first point. Bring it out at the same spot as before.
c. Pull the needle through and allow the thread to wrap around the foot. Pull at the thread gently so it
squeezes the foot and creates a line for the toe.
Repeat the stitch you made once again, pushing the needle through the foot from one side to the
other.
insert into back and knot thread

through bottom of next line wrap thread around
top of foot and trim
36. finish the needle sculpting

a. To move onto the next toe, stick the needle into the back of the foot as before, but instead bring it out
at the bottom of the other stitching line. Then you can repeat the previous step to needle sculpt the
toe for that area.
b. Repeat this process, stitching through the foot and allowing the thread to wrap around the top,
creating the toe line.
c. When complete, tie off the thread, then bring it out and trim it like before with the ladder stitch in
step 28. Then repeat steps 34-36 with your remaining foot so you have two total.
sew desu ne?

a. Take one of your feet and

align it over the leg seam align feet
(from step 19). The cut side onto legs
ladder
should be facing down. stitch
b. Sew the foot to the leg using around cut
a ladder stitch. Go around
the cut you made in step 33.
Go around with long stitches
for the first pass. Check that
you like the placement, then
go around again with tinier,
neater stitches for the second
pass. 37. attach the feet
Repeat for both feet.
congrats!
This completes your
plush! Now give it a
big hug!
sew desu ne?

pg. 1/3
TEST SQUARE
2”
¼” seam allowance
Cut 4 from pink fabric
cutting line
stitching FOOT (I)
measure this square to
toe
be sure you’ve printed
at the proper NAP
proportions
N (D fa ce
R ) bric
IN EG pinkowan
L fromm all
center
t 2 sea
E
front 2
Cu ¼”
BELLY (C)
P
NA
1 ¼” seam
allowance
1
STRETCH
HEAD
1
3
FRONT (A)
NAP
Cut 2 from pink

fabric
¼” seam
allowance
center
bottom
2 2
4
6
NAP
NAP
appliq
placem ue
ent
Cut 2 from pink
BACK (F)
allowance
¼” seam
EAR
fabric
STRETCH
dart
5
pg. 2/3
)
cutting line
L br ic
1
D m p am e
(J
V2 fro ” se anc
TAink fa

¼ ow
¼” seam allowance
I
NAP
all
ARM (H)
E
t
CU Cu
R
4
TCH
NAP
RE
FRONT (B)
ST
Cut 2 from pink
allowance
¼” seam
EAR
fabric
3
NAP
P
NA
rning
opening for tu
STRETCH
6
g
llin
fo r f i
HEAD
ing BACK (E)
en
op Cut 2 from pink
fabric
L ET ¼” seam
EL (K) ric
allowance
P
O LY CHcrap fanbce
P OU m s llowa
P 2 fro m a
dart
t a
Cu ” se
¼
pg. 3/3
il
ta 2)
/
(J1
t
dar
MewT T E RghNt.com
NAP
)
K (bG c
DY B pink fa e
r i
BOut 2 from allowanc
NAP
ush
2
C
P A o ly k n i
TCH
A
eam
P l
E
¼” s
STR
1
.c h
C
www
EYE WHITE
applique
trace & cut 1 each
from white
IRISES
applique
trace & cut 1 each
from blue
EYE SHINES
applique
STRAIGHT TAIL (J2)
trace & cut 2

each from white
allowance
¼” seam
EYE HIGHLIGHTS
applique
trace & cut 1 each
from light blue

Mew Plush Sewing Pattern

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Mew Plush Sewing Pattern

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Mew Plush Sewing Pattern

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mew

a free sewing pattern by

sew desu ne?

materials & tools:

pliers wire cutter

fusible web: lightweight heavyweight

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fa bric com p a r is on:

minky vs. felt

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printing the pattern:

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cutting the fabric:

before you begin:

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eye whites, shines: white hold applique while

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2. applique the other pieces

2a. other applique options

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3. sew the head front darts

a. Grab your two ear front

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5. sew the front ears

6. sew the center head front

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inner legs will

7. sew the inner legs

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blend seam repeat for

head back will repeat for

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11. sew the head back

repeat for both

12. sew the body darts

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wavy tail (J1): straight tail (J2):

13. sew the tail

a. Trim the excess seam

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16. sew the body back

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line up sew along

a. Grab both of your front and line center

Start by aligning the head

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a. Next, line up the body pieces.

a. At the edge between the

b. Lastly, finish up the other sew

side by repeating step 19 in between

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21. clip & turn the body

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23. insert the tail

a. Take your wire and wrap it

24. create the tail base

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25. sew the poly pellet pouch

stuff body sneak

26. stuff the body