CLUTCH MANUAL

CLUTCHES – PARTS – INFORMATION

JR. DRAGSTER
HRD RACING
908 N. MARCELLA AVE.
RIALTO, CALIFORNIA 92376
PH (909) 875 4150 FAX (909) 875 9115
WEBSITE: hrdracing.com

! WARNING !
FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE
FOLLOWING SAFETY
PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN
SERIOUS INJURY
 CLUTCH GUARD
FIRST AND FOREMOST, NEVER RUN THE ENGINE WITHOUT A CLUTCH
GUARD INSTALLED

ENGINES ARE CAPABLE OF RUNNING 10,000 RPM. WHEN A FAILURE

OCCURS, PIECES WILL BE TRAVELING AT A VERY HIGH VELOCITY
ENDANGERING NOT ONLY THE DRIVER BUT ONLOOKERS AS WELL.

ALL CLUTCH GUARDS MUST BE CONSTRUCTED OF A MATERIAL

CAPABLE OF CAPTURING ANY EJECTING PARTS OR PIECES IN THE
EVENT OF A MALFUNCTION.

NEVER CONSIDER THE CLUTCH GUARD AS ONLY A BELT GUARD.

THE FOLLOWING ARE EXAMPLES AND PROBABLE CAUSES WHICH COULD CAUSE A
CLUTCH TO COME APART

1. DRIVE OR CONVERTER HAS BEEN DROPPED CAUSING UNSEEN CRACKS THAT

COULD FAIL AT HIGH RPM.

2. BENT SHEAVES, CAUSING AN UNBALANCED EFFECT, COULD CAUSE A FAILURE.

3. BELT OR CHAIN FAILURE.

4. FIXING BOLT LOOSENS OR COMES OUT.

5. FOREIGN DEBRIS INTRODUCED TO COMPONENTS.

6. ENGINE CRANK BREAKS, DRIVE CLUTCH BECOMES UNATTACHED FROM THE

CAR.

THE ABOVE DOES NOT COVER EVERY PROBABILITY OF POTENTIAL PROBLEMS

WHICH CAN OCCUR REQUIRING A QUALITY CLUTCH GUARD.

THE ABOVE PERTAINS TO ALL CLUTCHES AND AS SUCH SHOULD BE

TAKEN VERY SERIOUSLY!

IMPORTANT!
BEFORE INSTALLATION read and understand the following information. Should any questions
arise, contact HRD Racing LLC for clarification.

1 BEFORE installation of the Drive Unit, a through inspection of the crank run out must be
performed. This inspection is required to determine if the crank is out of true, bent or
cracked. With an indicator, insure the crank does not exceed .003" out of true. Should
the test indicate otherwise, the problem must be located and corrected before installation
the Drive Unit can occur.
2 As with any metal to metal fit, usage is required to "seat" the mating parts. Because
"seating" is taking place, constant torquing of the 5/16" Fixing bolt ( threading into the
crank which retains the clutch to the crank )into the crank which retains the clutch to the
crank ) must be performed. NOTE: The 5/16" fixingbolt MUST be grade 8 or better.
Under no instance should this bolt be substituted for a lower quality bolt. The hollow 5/8"
bolt ( part #16, page 9 ) should stay tight after the initial torquing. BOTH BOLTS MUST
BE KEPT TORQUED TO MAINTAIN THE INTEGRITY OF THE DRIVE UNIT.
Torquing specifications are as follows: 5/8" = 40 ft lbs. 5/16" = 20 ft lbs. Should your
crank require a 3/8"bolt, torque it to 30 ft lbs.

After seating of the clutch has been achieved, apply a small amount of red Locktite to the threads of
the fixing bolt and re-torque. This is extra insurance to keep the bolt tight during use.

CHECK TORQUE OF 5/16" FIXING BOLT AFTER EVERY RUN!

Cheap and quick insurance considering the alternative

3 In the pits, while on the stand, NEVER run the engine RPMs up to the point of shifting
the clutch out. Damage to the Belt and Clutch could occur

BELT ADJUSTMENT
A properly adjusted belt is very important. For this reason, it is recommended that the belt be
inspected frequently.

The suggested amount of sag in the belt is 3/4". The following is the suggested method for
monitoring the sag in the belt.

Lay a Straight Edge on top of the belt ( as illustrated below ). Using a Fish Scale, pull down on the
center of the belt
between the Drive and Driven. When approximately 4 lbs. has been achieved the belt should have
pulled away from the Straight Edge 3/4".

Should the belt pull down greater than 3/4", a loss of lower gearing will be experienced. When this
occurs following will take place: When the throttle is applied the belt will rise on the pulleys of the
Drive Unit thus creating a higher gearing effect to take place. Another disadvantage of having a
loose belt is the loss of top end ground speed. When the belt is loose it will not be allowed to go to the
bottom of the Driven Unit thus creating a lower top end gearing effect and a loss of top end ground
speed.

Another potential problem with a loose belt is the possibility of turning the belt over ( up side down,
inside out ) while
performing a burn out, getting in and out of the throttle during a run or coming off the throttle at the
end of a run.

A tight belt will result in the car wanting to "creep" or pull through the lights during the staging
process. Belt damage will also occur should the belt be to tight.

With the engine shut off, the car should be able to be pushed with very little belt drag present.
 DRIVEN SPRING PRELOAD
PRELOAD TOO LOW PROBLEM:

After a burnout the belt does not return to the top of the Driven Unit pulleys. This leaves
the car in a higher gear for the next run. This also results in a loose belt situation because
the Driven Unit has not returned to the totally closed position. In turn, the loose belt could
roll over ( upside down, inside out ) after the burn out, while wheel racing ( in and out of the
throttle ) or after the completion of the run while letting off the throttle.

CAUSE:

Preload on the Driven Unit is below 6 lbs

SOLUTION:

6 lbs of preload is the very minimum at which the Driven Unit will perform as intended. It is
highly recommended that a higher degree cam be installed should less than 8 lbs of preload,
with the black spring, be desired.

PRELOAD TEST:

To check preload the following is recommended. Remove the belt. Using Vise Grips, with
softeners installed ( hose, rubber ) over the jaws to insure no damage occurs to the pulleys,
grip the very outside of the sliding half pulley of the Driven Unit ( see illustration below ).
Hook a fish scale to the Vise Grips at a point that equals the outside of the pulley. Be sure to
pull at a straight 90 degree angle to insure an accurate reading.
 GENERAL INFORMATION
The Jr. Dragster HRD/Powerbloc LLC clutching system is simple to tune, performance proven and a
very reliable unit. As with any performance unit, information is required to obtain optimum
performance and reliability. The following information is intended to provide you, the consumer,
with a working knowledge of the HRD/Powerbloc LLC unit. Should any questions arise after
completely reviewing the manual, PLEASE contact HRD RACING LLC immediately at (909) 875-
4150. A few minutes on the telephone will insure you will realize the full potential of your purchase.

When you begin to drive with and tune your HRD/Powerbloc LLC unit, it would be to your
advantage to forget everything that pertained to setting up your previous clutch. In the following
information we will explain how to set-up and tune the unit to gain optimum performance. NOTE:
Changes in gearing, tire pressures, carburetor adjustments, etc. may be necessary.

One of the large advantages you will notice, depending on changes in weather or track conditions, is
that the HRD/Powerbloc LLC unit will provide very consistent runs over and over again.

NEVER OPERATE THE ENGINE WITHOUT THE BELT INSTALLED ON BOTH THE DRIVE
AND DRIVEN UNITS!!!

INSTALLATION
1. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize lubricant to the crankshaft, crankshaft key and the inside of the
drive unit where contact is made with the crankshaft.

2. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize lubricant to the jackshaft, jackshaft key and the inside of the
driven (converter) where contact is made with the jackshaft. As in No. 1, the anti-seize will allow
for easy removal of the units. DO NOT use force to remove the units should they become stuck.
Damage will result. A puller kit is available in the event of a stubborn clutch.

3. The weight blocks are rounded on one end. When installing the blocks, make sure the rounded
end is UP into the cap. If the blocks are installed upside down, an unbalanced condition will
occur which could result in damage to the engine as previously stated. See drawing.
4. Using the washer (part #15) provided with your clutch, torque the 5/8” cap retainer bolt (part
#16) to 40 foot pounds. DO NOT use a standard washer on this bolt. DO NOT use Loctite on
this bolt!

5. Make sure your fixing bolt (the 5/16” bolt which holds the clutch to the crank) has at least ½” of
thread inserted into the shaft. NOTE: Due to variations in applications, this bolt is not supplied
with the clutch. The bolt should be Grade 8 as a minimum.

6. After each time the engine has been ran the fixing bolt should be retorqued.

ANY QUESTIONS SO FAR? CONTACT HRD RACING AT (909) 875-4150. HELP IS JUST A
PHONE CALL AWAY.

CLEAR DIMENSIONS FOR THE PAGE BELOW ARE AS FOLLOWS

1 = 5.875 or 5 7/8” K = .375 or 3/8”

2 = 8.5 or 8 ½” L = 1.0625 or 1 1/16”
A = 6.3125 or 6 5/16” W = 2.75 or 2 ¾”
B = 4.6 or 39/64” X = 7.5937 or 7 19/32”
C/C = See Belt Adjust Info Y = .75 or ¾”
F/F = 1.4375 or 1 7/16” Z = Motor Bolt Holes
J = 1.1875 or 1 3/16”

BELTS
BELT PART NUMBER: 1122V-8620

With proper care and maintenance, it will not be necessary to replace your belt often. However it is
recommended to have a spare in the event of an unforeseen failure.

SPARE BELT STORAGE

Before you store you spare belt, put it on the car and make a few runs with it. A belt that has been
broken in works better than a brand new belt. When you store your spare belt, place it in a black
plastic bag with the opened end sealed off with a tie wrap. Try to keep the bag in a cool dry place,
out of the sun. The same applies to the belt on the car. After each race day, remove the belt from the
car and store it in the same manner. Following these instructions will help keep your belt from
hardening thus loosing performance.

GENERAL BELT INFORMATION

Never allow fuel, oil or other chemical to come into contact with the belt. Never use belt dressing.
Belt dressings do not work. If you feel you need to use belt dressing, there is a problem in the system
that needs to be addressed.

Always install the belt so that it rotates in the same direction. A simple way to insure this happens is
to have the lettering on the belt face out so it can be read, right side up, from the clutch side of the
car.

To check a belt for cracks, remove the belt from the car, turn it inside out and look for cracks
between the cogs. If any cracks are evident, it is time to replace the belt.

A new belt is 1 3/16” wide. As the belt is used it will get narrower which wi ll not allow it to sit at the
very top of the driven unit. This will effect the low side of the gearing spectrum. The lower the belt
sits in the driven unit, the worst your car will perform out of the hole (unless you change your gear
ratio). When this happens it is a good idea to replace your belt.

Clutch alignment (covered in another section) is a major concern for achieving long belt life.

When the engine is not running, you should be able to push your car with very little belt drag
occurring. It is not necessary to remove your belt to tow the car. More damage can occur to your
belt by removing it after every run and reinstalling it before each run than by leaving it on the car.
Should the belt drag excessively while towing, it is adjusted too tightly.

CLUTCH ALIGNMENT INSTRUCTIONS

It is most important that the clutches be in perfect alignment. This applies not only when the engine
is not running, but when it is running under a full load as well. Mis-alignment of the clutches causes
excessive belt wear. An enormous amount of horsepower is also lost due to poor alignment, which
causes unwanted friction.

CHECKING YOUR CLUTCH ALIGNMENT

1. Using two straight edges, thin enough to be placed between the engine and the drive clutch, place
one against the drive and one against the driven (see diagram). Adjust the engine or jackshaft
mounts until the straight edges are parallel with each other.

2. To check vertical alignment, place the straight edges as shown on the diagram. To adjust, place
a shim under the engine of jackshaft mounts. Repeat step one.
3. After the clutches are aligned parallel with each other, check for proper offset (FF alignment
diagram 1.4375” or 1 7/16”).

PREVENTING THE JACKSHAFT FROM BENDING AND/OR FLEXING UNDER A LOAD

When the clutch system is under power, the jackshaft, even one made of 4130 chromium, can flex
which causes misalignment in the clutches. This occurs as soon as the drive becomes engaged. HRD
Racing LLC has developed a system designed to alleviate this problem. The following information
will explain how to rid your system of jackshaft flex.

1. When all the belt adjustments have been completed, install an outboard bearing with adjustable
heim joints on the end of the jackshaft (mounts will be required for supports).

2. Tighten the heim joints until the bearing is snug.

3. Recheck all the belt adjustments one last time.

When the above is complete, you can be assured the clutch will retain proper alignment and
performance while under power.

A HRD Racing LLC jackshaft stabilizing kit is available to alleviate jackshaft flex. See webpage
catalog.

CLUTCH ALIGNMENT IS ONE OF THE MOST

OVERLOOKED AND ABUSED ASPECTS OF JR. DRAGSTER
RACING
 DRIVE CLUTCH – PARTS LIST AND
DESCRIPTION
REFERENCE ABOVE DIAGRAM
1. Fixed Half Pulley – Includes shive and shaft

2. Sliding Half Pulley – Includes bushing

3. Shim Washer 1.2 – Used under part number 4. Increases spring tension. WARNING: The use of
too many of these shims will cause the spring to coil bind. Coil bind will not allow the clutch to
shift out completely.

4. Spring Guide Washer – Keeps spring centered in the sliding half pully.

5. Spring 3 ¾”, Black – Check spring length when new and document. When the spring begins to
“sag out”, the engagement RPM decreases.

6. Shim Washer 1.2

7. Shim Washer 0.6 – Same as number 6, just a different thickness. These shims are used for fine
tuning purposes. The shims will determine how close the fixed shive and the moveable shive are
allowed to come together by using different thickness’ and/or stacking of the shims. An example
would be with a lower horsepower engine, a heavy car and driver, the car may not react in the
proper manner when the clutch is allowed to shift all the way out (1 to 1 ratio) and the belt
travels to the top of the shives. In this case, shims would be added, per the diagram above, so the
belt is not allowed to travel to the very top of the shives when the clutch has completed it’s
shifting operation. WARNING: Never allow any part of the belt to rise above the shives. This
will result in premature belt expiration. The shim washers are intended only for very fine clutch
 tuning procedures and should not be a substitute for gearing changes. The clutch is designed to
shift all the way out and performs best when allowed to do so. Gearing changes will work best in
all but the finest of tuning procedures.

8. Shim Washer 1.2

9. Shim Washer 0.6 – Used to shim the spring the same way as part number 3. The same caution
should be taken as in number 3. Too many shims installed in the Spring Guide Bushing (part
number 10) will not allow the spring to be “captured” in the bushing. Should the spring come
out of the Spring Guide Bushing, it will no longer be centered in the clutch. This will result in
damage to the clutch.

10. Spring Guide Bushing – Serves two purposes. First, it is a spring guide. Second, it is the upper
bushing for the sliding half bushing. During installation, care should be taken so that no harm
will come to the bushing. Make sure the bushing is lined up and square so that no damage takes
place during assembly. This is a very important component in the clutch. If damaged, it will
need to be replaced.

11. Internal Snap Ring – Used to retain the spring and the spring guide bushing. Before releasing
spring tension, be sure the snap ring is in the groove completely.

12. Red Centrifugal Block – Refer to Installation section, number 3 for proper installation. It is very
important that these blocks are installed correctly. It is imperative that each block has the exact
same amount of weight installed in it. Failure to do so will result in an unbalanced condition,
which will cause harm to the engine and the clutch unit.

12A. Black Centrifugal Block – Same as above, high performance. Made out of a “slippery”
material. Substantially higher cost. Never mix with red blocks.

13. Flat Washer – Mounts on the end of the shaft, under the cap. Acts as a wear washer for the cap

14. Cap

15. Heavy Duty 5/8” Washer – Should this washer become damaged or misplaced, do not replace it
with a standard washer. Standard washers have been known to fail causing the clutch to come
apart while turning high RPM. This is a dangerous occurrence to say the least.

16. 5/8” Bolt Bored to 5/16” - Should your crank require a 3/8” fixing bolt, drill out the 5/16” hole to
3/8” in a lathe to insure the hole remains straight. It is not recommended to drill larger than
3/8”. Torque to 40 foot pounds

17. Square Key

18. Flat Spacer Washer – Used for adjusting the drive unit away from the engine. Can also be used
to adjust the driven unit on the jackshaft.

19. Sliding Half Pulley Bushing – Like the Spring Guide Bushing ( #10 ) careful clutch assembly is
required. Should damage during assembly occur, replacement will need to take place at a
machine shop.

20. Weights – The exact amount of weight in each weight block is imperative. This cannot be
stressed enough.

Nylon Threaded Cap – Each Nylon Threaded Cap weighs 1.7 grams. Each weight ( #20 ) weighs
3 grams. For fine tuning purposes, the use of two Nylon Threaded Caps in a block is
 permissible. EXAMPLE: Should two Weights be too much weight, and one Weight is not
enough, use one Weight and two Nylon Threaded Caps in each block to achieve the desired
performance.

DRIVEN CLUTCH – PARTS LIST AND

DESCRIPTION
REFERENCE ABOVE DIAGRAM
A. Fixed Half Pulley – Includes shive and aluminum shaft.

B. External Snap Ring – Prevents shim movement.

C. Sliding Half Pulley – Includes shive, bushing and cam shoes.

D. Springs – Black .156 Wire Size Weakest

Yellow .162 Wire Size
Brown .177 Wire Size
Sky Blue .188 Wire Size
Grey .207 Wire Size Strongest
E. Fixed Cam - 40 Degree
45 Degree
50 Degree
55 Degree

F. Square Key – Cam Key

G. External Snap Ring – Cam retainer

H. Square Key – Fixed pulley key

I. Cam Shoe – Always replace all (3) shoes. Failure to do so will result in uneven contact between
the shoes and all three points on the fixed cam ( part E ).

J. Pulley Shim – Used to adjust the space between the pulleys to insure the belt is at the top of the
pulleys when the car is at rest.

K. Sliding Half Pulley ( part C ) Bushing – Two required – These bushings are made of a fiber type
material which can easily be damaged during assembly and disassembly of the clutch. To avoid
damage, make sure all sharp edges removed from the key way slot and the aluminum shaft.

L. Cam Shim – Should the cam points ( very tip of the fixed cam ) be resting on the cam shoes ( part
I ) when the clutch is idle, place the cam shims between the snap ring ( part B ) and the fixed cam
( part E ). Add as many as is needed to remove the cam points from the cam shoes.

CLUTCH SET-UP INSTRUCTIONS

OBJECTIVE

1. Simplify tuning procedures for the HRD/Powerbloc LLC clutch.

2. Explain how the clutch should react under a given condition to achieve maximum performance.

3. Provide a working knowledge of how to “tune” your clutch to perform under changing
conditions.

4. How to make changes that will allow you to take full advantage of the powerband built into the
engine you are working with.

TERMINOLOGY

DRIVE – The clutch mounted on the engine.

CONVERTER/DRIVEN – the unit mounted on the jackshaft.

MOVEABLE FACE - The shive that moves in and out on the drive and driven.

ENGAGEMENT – Drive engages belt at a given RPM resulting in the car moving forward.

POWERBAND – The RPM range ( Example: 5,000 RPM to 9,500 RPM ) in which the engine
produces the most horsepower.

BOG – Engine not reaching the powerband before the clutch engages. Engine not running to it’s
full potential.
OVER-REV – Engine RPM’s are above and beyond the powerband.

LOOSE – Loss of traction, wheel spin.

HOOK-UP – Good traction, no wheel spin.

EXPLANATION

A properly tuned drive and converter will out-perform a manually operated clutch and transmission.
However, as this may be your first experience with a drive and driven unit, a standard transmission
and clutch will be used as a comparison.

If your engine were over revving, you would shift to a high gear. If your engine is bogging, you
would shift to a lower gear. When leaving the starting line, the optimum situation would be to
engage your manual clutch so your engine wouldn’t bog and at the same time your tire wouldn’t lose
traction.

This can be accomplished by using the HRD/Powerbloc LLC drive and driven unit.

THE FOLLOWING IS A GUIDE TO ADJUSTING YOUR DRIVE AND DRIVEN UNITS TO

OBTAIN THE MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE AVAILABLE FROM YOUR PURCHASE

TROUBLE SHOOTING

PROBLEM SOLUTION

Engagement RPM too low Remove equal amount of weight from each
block.

Engagement RPM too high Add an equal amount of weights to each block.

Engine over revving while accelerating The blocks are too light. Add one or more weights
to each block. Always add weight to the blocks in
equal increments. Another option is to reduce
torsion on the driven unit spring and/or change
the cam to a higher degree. This will facilitate the
belt movement along a greater radius in the clutch
pulley, increasing the load.

Engine bogging while accelerating The blocks are too heavy. Remove one or more
weights from each one block in equal
increments. Another option is to increase
the spring torsion and/or change the cam to a
lower degree. This will slow down the rise of the
belt in the clutch which in turn will decrease the
load on the engine.

Drive belt gums the pulley disks The belt is slipping. Increase the tension on the
driven spring. Add one or more weights to each
block. Recheck alignment of clutches. Replace
belt.

Uneven acceleration Dirty belt. Driven unit is defective. Belt width is

uneven. Check driven unit. Replace belt.

Clutch over heats on one side Poor alignment of the clutch and converter.
TUNING PROCEDURE

Begin with adjusting the weight in each block of the drive unit to a point that when engagement
occurs the engine does not bog and at the same time the car does not experience excessive wheel spin.

IMPORTANT! Add and remove weights equally. Each block must have the same amount of weights
installed. Failure to do so will result in an unbalanced effect, which will cause severe damage to the
engine and the drive unit.

After the engagement RPM has been established, you will need to find out where in the powerband
you’re your engine runs best. Some engines do not produce enough horsepower and/or torque to
maintain speed when the clutches are shifted all the way out. In this case ground speed will be lost.
Take note as to when the engine seems to start bogging during the run.

At this point you should have the engagement RPM dialed and you should know how far the clutch
can shift out and remain in the powerband.

The drive and driven must be tuned as a unit. As you make changes in the driven unit, you may have
to make changes in the drive. Take note of which engagement speed workied best and keep working
back to that point. Also note at what point the engine worked best when shifting out and keep
working back to that information.

DRIVEN UNIT

EXAMPLE: The car leaves the starting line running strong. After a few feet the engine boggs. This
is an indication the driven unit is shifting out too soon. The solution is to add more tension to the
spring of installing a lower degree cam.

For calibrating the converter there are 4 cams available. 40, 45, 50 and 55 degree. 5 different
springs are available. The larger the wire the stronger the spring. There are 6 spring settings in
each cam. To stay in a lower gear range longer, use a stronger spring and/or a lower degree cam.

There are many adjustments that can be made to this unit. When tuning the clutch, make small
adjustments. This will insure your not adjusting the clutch in the wrong direction.

Once you have the driven unit tuned to your liking, only small adjustments to the drive unit
(add/subtract weights) should be necessary as track conditions change. Add weight – shift out faster.
Remove weight – shift out slower

When adjusting the spring tension in the driven unit, do not over wind the spring. Should the spring
be in the number 6 position in the cam and more tension is necessary, replace the spring with the
next stronger spring.

To check spring tension on the driven unit, perform the following: When the spring is new, remove
the belt, place a pair of vise grips (with jaw softeners so no harm can come to the pulley) on the outer
edge of the moveable face. Hook a fish scale to the vise grips, next to the pulley, and pull until the
pulley begins to move. At this point record the pound reading on the fish scale. Log this reading and
check periodically. When checking to determine if the spring is losing strength, all the settings must
be the same as when the original test took place. The fish scale method is also used to check the
amount of preload on the driven unit for tuning purposes. See “ Driven Spring Preload” sheet at the
beginning of manual for more details and diagram.

DRIVE UNIT
Weights weigh 3 grams each. The nylon cap, which holds the weights in place, weighs 1.7 grams.
For fine tuning purposes, it is permissible to use more than one nylon cap in each block. Nylon caps
are available through HRD Racing LLC.

The drive spring should be measured when new and the length recorded. As the spring sags (gets
shorter) the clutch tuning will change. This will cause the engagement RPM to become lower. When
this occurs the spring needs to be replaced. Springs do not last forever. To make your spring last
longer, it is recommended to remove it from the clutch between race days.

All changes should be made one at a time. As each change is made, check the effect the change has
made to your assembly. Each and every car will require it’s own set-up. No two cars are the same.
The tuner who takes the time to test several different settings will have the advantage at the track.

These instructions are not intended to cover all phases of clutch tuning. Our intent is to give the
individual who is just coming into the sport, with no experience with a belt drive system, a working
knowledge of the system.

There is no substitute for experience. The more you “play” with the clutches, the more information
you will gain and retain. Much more so than reading volumes of technical manuals.

Make sure you keep a log of every result from every change made. Make your own log or use the one
included in this package.

The HRD/Powerbloc LLC clutch can be tuned for a stock engine as well as a full race engine
producing high horsepower.

Should any questions arise, please contact HRD Racing LLC. We are here to field your questions
and help you in any way we can!