Hindawi

Advances in Materials Science and Engineering

Volume 2022, Article ID 8384193, 8 pages
https://doi.org/10.1155/2022/8384193

Research Article
Effect of Fibers and Weave Designs on the Thermo-Physiological
Comfort of Summer Scarf Fabric

Abher Rasheed ,1 Mumtaz Hasan Malik ,2 Faheem Ahmad ,1 Farooq Azam ,1

and Sheraz Ahmad 1
1
School of Engineering and Technology, National Textile University, Sheikhupura Road, Faisalabad 37610, Pakistan
2
School of Design and Textiles, University of Management and Technology, Johar Town, Lahore 54770, Pakistan

Correspondence should be addressed to Sheraz Ahmad; [email protected]

Received 17 May 2022; Revised 3 August 2022; Accepted 6 August 2022; Published 29 August 2022

Academic Editor: Fuat Kara

Copyright © 2022 Abher Rasheed et al. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License,
which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
The summer headscarves, which are usually made of polyester, are commonly used by women in the Middle East and South Asia
regions. The polyester fibers provide good luster and drape but give poor comfort to the wearer. This work aims to produce
summer headscarf fabrics using four different fibers with three different fabric structures to achieve comfortable summer scarf.
™ ®
The micropolyester, TENCEL , COOLMAX , and bamboo fibers were selected to construct the fabrics with 1/1 plain, 2/1 twill,
and 2/2 matt weave. The ring spinning technique was employed to form yarns, which were later used to construct fabrics from
these yarns. The fabrics were tested for drape, surface friction, air permeability, thermal resistance, overall moisture management
capability, etc. The study revealed that matt weave is the best choice for summer scarf fabrics due to its structure. Further, it was
™
also concluded that in fibers, micropolyester and TENCEL can provide the best results for aesthetic, tactile, and thermal comfort.

1. Introduction assessment of thermo-physiological comfort of fabric [6].

Fiber type, cross-sectional shapes of fibers, and their blends
Clothing is the basic need for humans that provides cover have significant impact on the air permeability, thermal
and protection to human body against external environ- resistance, and moisture absorption [7–9]. Moisture trans-
ment. The selection of clothing depends on the desire and portation and thermal properties of the fabric also depend
need of the human. The choice for the clothing changes with upon the type of yarn, fabric weight, thickness, and weave
the season, age, work and activity type, climate, and fashion structure. The structural parameters of woven fabric have
[1]. The fundamental demand of the clothing is the comfort great influence on apparel selection either for winter or
which can be defined as a pleasant state of psychological, summer season [10–12].
physiological, and physical harmony between a human body The strength and durability of the fabric is also a factor
and the environment [2]. The categories of comfort are for the selection of apparel as many other factors such as
sensorial/tactile comfort, psychological comfort, and color, appearance, comfort, and cost. Tear strength and
thermo-physiological comfort [3]. The ability of fabric to tensile strength are the mechanical properties which de-
allow air, perspiration, and heat through it is known as termine the strength criteria for the fabric, and these
thermo-physiological comfort. The air permeability, thermal properties also depend upon the fiber type, yarn type, fabric
resistance, and water vapor permeability determine the construction method, and nature of any coating or finish
passage of air, heat, and perspiration through fabric, and applied on it [13–17].
these properties depend upon the fiber nature, yarn type, Textile fibers are the fundamental unit of any textile-
fabric structure, and chemical coatings on fabric [4, 5]. based product. The natural and synthetic fibers and their
The movement of heat, air, and moisture in vapor and blends are usually used to construct a textile assembly [5].
liquid form through the fabric can be utilized for the The selection of textile fibers is very important in order to
2 Advances in Materials Science and Engineering

achieve the desired properties of a fabric. The type of fiber density (PPI) was kept less than the warp density (EPI)
significantly affects the mechanical and comfort properties because picks higher than ends are scarcely used in com-
®
of textiles [18]. COOLMAX is a modified polyester fiber,
which has excellent comfort properties due to its unique
mercial weaving. The technical specifications of the fabrics
used are given in Table 2. All fabric samples were manu-
structure. This fiber transfers moisture very quickly from the factured on the sample weaving loom (Evergreen, CCI
skin by pulling it towards the fabric and dries out from the Taiwan).
fabric surface due to its unique channeled structure. That is

[19].
®
why COOLMAX is a good choice for summer clothing
2.2. Methods. Desizing of the fabric was done using hot
water treatment. The detergent was added to achieve de-
™
TENCEL is a regenerated cellulosic fiber, which has
good tensile and tear strengths and biodegradability. This tergency to remove the oil and dust from the fabric. The
fiber also has good comfort properties due to its porous concentration of detergent used was 2 g/L. The process
structure [20–23], which is suitable for summer fabrics. The temperature was 90°C, and the process was carried out for 1
micropolyester fiber has poor air permeability but has good hour. After that, the samples were washed with cold water to
water vapor permeability and moisture management remove detergent. It was then squeezed between the lab scale
properties due to its lower fiber diameter [24–26]. Bamboo padder to remove excess water and then dried on lab scale
fiber is another regenerated fiber, which is obtained from the machine. The drying temperature was 70°C, and dwell time
bamboo plant. Moreover, bamboo fiber is biodegradable and was 1 minute.
has antibacterial properties [27]. The high moisture ab-
sorption capacity and UV resistance make the bamboo fiber
2.3. Characterization
attractive for summer fabrics [28].
Headscarves and headwraps are some of the clothing 2.3.1. Yarn Testing. The yarn count was tested in accordance
articles which are highly attractive and useable among fe- with ISO 2060:1994 standard. Twist per inch (TPI) of the
male fashion and apparels. There are three important di- yarns was measured using standard ISO 17202:2002 (un-
mensions related to the comfort of the headscarf, i.e., twist/retwist standard test method). Tensile strength and
aesthetic, tactile comfort, and thermal comfort. The aesthetic elongation test of all the yarn samples were carried out using
value of a garment has a direct relationship with the fabric Uster Tensorapid-1 by Uster Technologies, Switzerland,
drape which is dependent on the fabric stiffness. Tactile following the ASTM D 2256-02 standard test method. Yarn
comfort may indirectly be determined using the surface unevenness, imperfections, and hairiness measurements of
friction of the fabrics with which the garments are produced. all the samples were done using Uster Tester-5 (UT-5) by
There are several evaluation techniques to find out the Uster Technologies, Switzerland, following the ASTM
thermal comfort. Some of them are thermal resistance, D1425 standard test method.
overall moisture management capability (OMMC), and air
permeability. The market survey revealed that polyester fiber
is widely being used to produce summer headscarf. A 2.3.2. Fabric Testing. The areal density of the fabric samples
polyester headscarf usually has a good aesthetic value, but it was measured according to ASTM D 3776 standard test
has poor tactile and thermal comfort properties. As the methods. To determine moisture management properties,
scarves are in direct contact with the skin, polyester may AATCC 195-2012 standard test method was followed. To
cause itching, abrasion, friction, and other uncomfortable measure air permeability of the samples, standard test
feelings due to the production of static charge on it. method (ASTM D 737-04 (2008)) was followed. A test
Therefore, there is a need to propose summer scarf fabrics method (ISO 11092:1993) was used to determine the thermal
with improved comfort and good drape. The aim of this resistivity of the fabric samples.
study is to develop and compare properties of scarf fabrics, Surface coefficient of friction test was determined
which are prepared by using different textile fibers and fabric according to the ASTM D 1894-01 standard. Five specimens
structures with better thermal and tactile comfort. were tested for each woven sample. For each test, two
specimens were cut. The sample, to be tested, was cut of
2. Materials and Methods 250 × 130-mm size. and was smoothened to eliminate
wrinkles, taking care that no alteration in the specimen
2.1. Materials. Four different fibers (COOLMAX ,
® surface occurs. The wrinkles were removed so that the
™
TENCEL , micropolyester, and bamboo) were used to
produce carded ring spun yarns of tex 10/1 count in a
surface remains smooth. The sample which was attached to
sled was cut at 120 mm2. The sample was stretched lighthy to
Toyoda R-4 ring frame. The technical specifications of fibers remove any distortions on the surface of the fabric. The
are given in Table 1. edges of the 120 mm2 specimen were attached to the back of
A total of 12 woven samples having three different weave the sled, and then the specimen-covered sled was attached
designs, i.e., 1/1 plain, 2/1 twill, and 2/2 matt, were man- through its eye screw to the nylon filament. The drive speed
ufactured as shown in Figure 1. The areal density (g/m2) of for the apparatus was 150 mm/min. After this, the driving
the fabrics ranged from 65–74 g/m2 which is suitable for mechanism was started to provide a speed of 150 mm/min.
summer seasons. Similar yarns having same count, i.e., Ne Due to the presence of frictional forces between the con-
60/1, were used in both warp and weft directions. Weft tacting surfaces, no immediate realtive motion was observed.
Advances in Materials Science and Engineering 3

Table 1: Technical specifications of fibers.

S. No.
1
Property
Length (mm)
TENCEL
38
™ Micropolyester
38
COOLMAX
38
® Bamboo
38
2 Linear density (denier) 1.44 1.17 1.00 1.19
3 Breaking force (N) 0.169 0.103 0.159 0.079
4 Tenacity (cN/tex) 99.83 43.68 91.82 25.36
5 Elongation (%) 21.37 12.51 17.57 16.20

1/1 Plain weave 2/1 Twill weave 2/2 Matt weave

Figure 1: Weave designs.

Table 2: Technical specifications of fabrics.

S. No. Material Ends (EPI) Picks (PPI) Weight (g/m2) Weave Thickness (mm)
1 Bamboo 102 74 73.67 2/1 S twill 0.26
2 Bamboo 100 74 72.74 1/1 plain 0.26
3 Bamboo 104 76 75.2 2/2 matt 0.22
4 TENCEL ™ 98 67 67.58 2/1 S twill 0.24
5 TENCEL ™ 95 67 66.32 1/1 plain 0.24
6
7
TENCEL ™
Micropolyester
102
94
67
70
69.25
69.72
2/2 matt
2/1 S twill
0.20
0.20
8 Micropolyester 100 70 67.72 1/1 plain 0.20
9 Micropolyester 98 72 69.66 2/2 matt 0.18
10 COOLMAX
® 100 73 70.93 2/1 S twill 0.20
11 COOLMAX
® 96 70 68.05 1/1 plain 0.22
12 COOLMAX
® 102 72 71.38 2/2 matt 0.22

This is due to the fact that lubrication on the sled is equal to circular disc having 18 cm diameter and was allowed to
or more than the static frictional force acting between the drape under its own weight, above which there was the
contacting surfaces. The reading of static and dynamic co- illumination source. The shadow cast by the fabric was
efficient of friction was recorded. traced to a piece of paper. The snap of this shadow
The fabric drape test was performed according to was taken using the camera. The larger the area of the
BS 5058-1973 testing standard, on the Cusick drape shadow is, the stiffer would be the fabric. The drape
tester. In this test, circular specimen of 30 cm diameter coefficient of the fabric was determined by using the
was used. This specimen was placed concentrically on the following formula:

[area under the draped sample − area of support disk]

DC % � ∗ 100. (1)
[area of the specimen − area of support disk]

3. Results and Discussion 3.2. Fabric Properties

3.1. Yarn Properties. The physical and mechanical 3.2.1. Fabric Areal Density and Thickness. Areal density
properties of the produced yarns are shown in Tables 3 of all the fabrics is given in Figure 2 which shows that
and 4. fabrics made up of bamboo and TENCELTM have slightly
4 Advances in Materials Science and Engineering

Table 3: Physical and mechanical properties of yarns.

S. No.
1
Parameter
Count (Ne)
TENCEL
61.70
™ Micropolyester
61.61
COOLMAX
61.59
® Bamboo
60.33
2 Twist per inch (T.P.I) 28.93 25.18 27.78 29.05
3 Single yarn strength (cN) 158.1 217.1 133.7 110.7
4 Elongation (%) 5.39 7.57 9.21 8.41
5 Tenacity (cN/tex) 16.07 22.64 13.59 10.94
6 CLSP 2429.68 3520.28 2054.70 1701.24

Table 4: Yarn imperfections.

S. No.
1
Parameter
Unevenness (U%)
TENCEL
13.06
™ Micropolyester
11.60
COOLMAX
13.68
® Bamboo
14.27
2 CVm (%) 16.66 14.58 17.20 18.04
3 Thin (-50%) 64 18.5 249 160
4 Thick (+50%) 217 52.5 148.5 203.5
5 Neps (+200%) 495.5 27 73.5 377.5
6 Imperfections/km 776.5 98 471 741
7 Hairiness 5.81 4.55 5.03 4.58

0.3 76
74
0.25
Areal density (g/m2)

72
Thickness (mm)

0.2 70
0.15 68
66
0.1
64
0.05 62
0 60
Bamboo TENCEL™ Micro COOLMAX® Bamboo TENCEL™ Micro COOLMAX®
polyester polyester

Plain Plain
Twill Twill
Matt Matt

Figure 2: Areal density of fabrics made using different fibers and Figure 3: Thickness of fabrics made using different fibers and
weave designs. weave designs.

the lowest bulk value which causes air to pass through it

higher areal density than micropolyester and COOL-
easily. On the other hand, bamboo fiber has second highest
®
MAX fabrics. But there is no significant difference
of areal density between the fabric samples. Plain weave
air permeability value due to its microporous structure [29].
and twill weave structures have almost same areal ®
COOLMAX fiber has more air permeability than micro-
polyester fiber because of its grooved structure [30]. Simi-
density, but matt weave has slightly lower areal density.
larly, due to the more compact structure of the plain weave,
Figure 3 shows the thickness value of the fabrics. It is clear
there are fewer pores available in the fabric to allow air to
from Figure 3 that fabrics made up of bamboo and
pass through it. Hence, in this case, it shows the lowest value
®
COOLMAX fiber have more thickness than micro-
polyester and TENCELTM fabrics. Twill weave fabrics
of air permeability. Matt weave is suitable for summer
clothing as it possesses lowest resistance to the air passing
have the highest value of thickness while matt weave have
through it due to lower number of yarn intersection and
the lowest.
loose fabric structure.

3.2.2. Air Permeability. Air permeability of all the fabrics is 3.2.3. Thermal Resistance. The effect of weave design and the
given in Figure 4, which indicates that TENCEL has
highest values of air permeability while micropolyester has
™ fiber nature on the thermal resistance is given in Figure 5.
Bamboo and micropolyester fibers have higher values of
the lowest value. The lowest value of micropolyester may be thermal resistance as compared to TENCEL and COOL- ™
due to the fact that the microfibers have large surface area,
which reduces the passage of air current through the fabric
®
MAX fibers. Figure 3 showed that the fabric made of
bamboo fibres have the highest value of fabric thickness.
as compared to the other fibers while TENCEL possesses ™ Higher thickness makes the fabric more heat resistant.
Advances in Materials Science and Engineering 5

3500 1
0.9
Air Permeability (mm/sec)

3000
0.8
2500 0.7
2000 0.6

OMMC
0.5
1500 0.4
1000 0.3
0.2
500
0.1
0 0
Bamboo Tencel M. polyester Coolmax Bamboo Tencel M. polyester Coolmax

Plain Plain
Twill Twill
Matt Matt
Figure 4: Air permeability of fabrics made using different fibers Figure 6: OMMC of fabrics.
and weave designs.

0.025
bamboo) have higher moisture content values as they are
Thermal Resistance (m2.K/W)

highly moisture absorbent and take long time to transmit

0.02 resulting in poor OMMC. There was no clear trend between
the weave type and OMMC of the prepared fabrics. Wetting
0.015 time for all the fabrics is given in Figure 7 which shows that
the wetting time is higher for micropolyester and COOL-
0.01
MAX fibers while it is lower for the cellulosic (TENCELTM
0.005
®
and bamboo) fibers. This may be due to their hydrophilicity
of cellulosic material having bonding sites to attract water.
0
Bamboo Tencel M. polyester Coolmax

Plain 3.2.5. Fabric Drape. Fabrics with better drape result in better
Twill aesthetic value of a finished garment. The drape of the fabrics
Matt has a direct relation with the fabric stiffness, which is
Figure 5: Thermal resistance of fabrics. mainly affected by the type of fiber, yarn structure, fabric
structure, and chemical finishes. The drape coefficient and
appearance of draped fabric were used to determine the
Micropolyester is micro denier fiber, which has high surface drape properties of the prepared fabrics. Figure 8 indicates
area, trapping more air inside the structure, which ultimately that the fabric made of micropolyester possesses lower
lowers the heat flow. The plain weave fabric has the highest drape coefficient values while bamboo possesses the highest
thermal resistance, while the matt weave has the lowest. The drape coefficient values among all the fabrics. This may be
plain weave fabric has maximum interlacement points be- due to the fineness of the micropolyester fibers which
tween warp and weft yarns which helped to hinder the flow possess lower coefficient values because fabrics made of
of heat. On the contrary, matt weave has the lowest thermal finer fibers are less stiff than those made with coarser ones.
resistance because of less number of yarn interlacements Fabrics made from bamboo fibers possess a slightly higher
between warp and weft. The twill weave has intermediate areal density (g/m2), which may have resulted in higher
values of thermal resistance due to the less compact structure drape coefficient value. Due to the more compact structure
as compared to plain weave but more cover factor as of the plain weave, highest value of drape coefficient was
compared to matt weave. observed which may be due to the fact that its compact
structure does not allow the movement of yarns and hence
resists more to bend under its own weight, thus providing
3.2.4. Moisture Management Properties. The results for higher values of drape coefficient. The lower number of
OMMC (overall moisture management capacity) are given yarn intersections and loose fabric structure give the lowest
in Figure 6 which indicate that the micropolyester fabrics value of drape coefficient for matt wave which was also
have greater OMMC values than the other fabrics. Micro- confirmed by the images of fabric in Figure 9. Figure 9
polyester fibers have good moisture wicking properties represents the images of the draped fabric samples. A 30 cm
which are due to their higher packing coefficient than circular sample of fabric was placed on a circular plate of
normal fibers. The average capillary size is less in the form of 18 cm diameter. The shape of fabric draped by its own
micropolyester spun yarn, which increases the capillary weight is shown in Figure 9. It can be observed that the
pressure and ultimately rapid moisture transportation. plain-woven sample has poor drape while the matt woven
Moreover, the cellulose-based fibers (TENCEL and ™ sample depicted the best drape among the samples.
6 Advances in Materials Science and Engineering

3
2.5

Wetting time (s)

2
1.5
1
0.5
0
Bamboo Tencel M. polyester Coolmax

Plain
Twill
Matt
Figure 7: Wetting time of fabrics.

20
18
Drape Coefficient (%)

16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
Bamboo Tencel M. polyester Coolmax

Plain
Twill
Matt
Figure 8: Drape coefficient of the fabrics.

Plain Weave Twill Weave Matt Weave

Figure 9: Appearance of draped fabrics.

3.2.6. Fabric Surface Friction. Surface friction has a fabric has the lowest coefficient of friction while
great impact on the tactile comfort of the garments. The
fabrics with low surface friction provide better tactile
™
TENCEL fabric has the highest coefficient of friction
among all the fabrics.
comfort and can be used for the garments which This surface smoothness of the micropolyester is re-
come directly in contact with the skin. Figures 10 and 11 sponsible for its lowest surface coefficient values. It was given
present the results for the static and dynamic friction, in Table 4 that the micropolyester yarn had minimum
respectively. The results depict that the micropolyester hairiness and least imperfection value.
Advances in Materials Science and Engineering 7

0.6 used to achieve exceptional results in all three aspects, i.e.,

0.58
aesthetic, tactile comfort, and thermal comfort. Another
study may be conducted to find out the best blend ratio
Coefficient of friction

0.56
0.54 ™
among micropolyester and TENCEL . In a nutshell, the
summer scarf fabric should be woven (matt weave) and
0.52
0.5
made of micropolyester and TENCEL blend. ™
0.48
0.46
Data Availability
0.44 The data used to support the findings of this study are
Bamboo Tencel M. polyester Coolmax
available from the corresponding author upon request.
Plain
Twill
Matt Conflicts of Interest
Figure 10: Static friction of fabrics. The authors declare that they have no conflicts of interest.

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