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Monsoon Repair

1. This document provides repair and service instructions for a Monsoon air rifle. It details how to check and adjust various components like the pressure, breech o-ring, magazine, and trigger. 2. The power output should be between 910-940 ft/s for semi-auto and 950-1050 ft/s, and instructions are provided for troubleshooting low or high power. 3. Dismantling and reassembly steps are outlined, including releasing air pressure and removing the shroud and barrel. Rebuilding info provides details on lubrication and alignment.

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Livio Braz
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82 views5 pages

Monsoon Repair

1. This document provides repair and service instructions for a Monsoon air rifle. It details how to check and adjust various components like the pressure, breech o-ring, magazine, and trigger. 2. The power output should be between 910-940 ft/s for semi-auto and 950-1050 ft/s, and instructions are provided for troubleshooting low or high power. 3. Dismantling and reassembly steps are outlined, including releasing air pressure and removing the shroud and barrel. Rebuilding info provides details on lubrication and alignment.

Uploaded by

Livio Braz
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Model Other model names Date Revision Revision date

Monsoon repair / service helper 2018-07-09 EN.18.01 -

1. Pressure: Min 180bar Max 210bar

To low: Charge with air


To high: Shoot a couple of shots until you get under 210bar, if it is higher than 210bar it will
Not be able to reload semi-auto.

2. Breech o-ring: Located in the magazine slot.


Replace if it’s missing.

3. Magazine: Test shoot without magazine (inspect magazine and replace if necessary)

4. Trigger: Adjust if needed, if it gets stuck or feel crispy it will probably need replacement.

Adjustment: Slacken H8 (counterclockwise) then start to test your way ahead

First you have the resistance in first stage, done by spring H6.
This is constant and cannot be adjusted.
Then you have the Second stage adjuster H8, this is a spring tensioned adjustment screw.
We will adjust the trigger let go after Second stage adjuster H8 is activated but before it is completely
compressed against the main block.

When this is set correctly you can adjust the reset screw G5 so that it stops the H8 0,5-1mm from the main
block. You will need to slacken G6 to be able to adjust G5.
It’s easiest adjusted with a set of pliers.

Next thing you can do is to set screwH3 (travel length), set so the reset screw G5 just gets under the trigger
base H2 as tight as possible but without touching each other.

You should also check the reset pin G1. The measurement between the two lines in the picture is not allowed
to exceed 1mm. If this should be too much bent
it must be straightened or replaced.
Model Other model names Date Revision Revision date
Monsoon repair / service helper 2018-07-09 EN.18.01 -

5. Power: The power should be around 910-940 ft/s to get the semi-auto working (5,5). 950-1050 ft/s (4.5)

Lack of power can be caused by:


Hammer spring tension is set to low or has loosened (K9), adjust clockwise.
Make sure the cocking bolt is able to go down in its slot when you change settings.
Hammer spring K8 has broken off and needs to be replaced.
Hammer K6 has been greases too much, this shall only have a thin layer of oil on the surface to prevent
corrosion.
Hammer is worn out, check the edge of the outer ring. This should be smooth and show no sign of sharp edges
and must be round.
Malfunctioning regulator (Only in caliber 4.5)
Barrel: The air channel between main block F2 and Barrel is not aligned, can be caused by
Faulty re-assembling upon repair.

Too much power can be caused by:


Hammer spring tension is set to high (K9, adjust counterclockwise).
Too much hammer weight K7, if you alter a system by changing parts you automatically
Change the setting of the rifle and the hammer weight can suddenly appear to be too much.
Factory settings can vary from rifle to rifle, Std settings is found in the detail drawing
Sometimes they are tuned with small additional weight rings.

Verification data for Hammer weight (length of spring guide):


4.5 = 34.5mm (32mm with one weight ring)
5.5 = 31mm (28mm with one weight ring)

6. Cocking system:

If the cocking feels rough it can be caused by:


Hammer is worn-out, check the edge of the outer ring. This should be smooth and show no sign of sharp edges
and must be round.
Cocking slot is worn and will need some polishing or grinding to smoothen the slot.
In worst case the block F2 need to be replaced.
Aligner K12 can jam if you have done extensive repairs. If you alter a system by changing parts
you automatically change the setting of the rifle and the aligner ends up in a slightly different position.
You might need to grind/polish this of in the end towards the reloading rod K1

7. Shroud: Check internal parts for damage and bits and pieces of lead.

The outer tube must be free from dents as this would prevent the reloading system from reloading.
Verification data for Muzzle diameter C1: 4.5 = 6.2mm, 5.5 = 6.5mm
Verification data for Washer diameter C6: 4.5 = 5.15mm, 5.5 = 6.20-8.5mm
Usual settings for caliber 5.5: 900-910 ft/s (6.20mm) 910-930ft/s (8mm) 930ft/s >(8.5mm)
Model Other model names Date Revision Revision date
Monsoon repair / service helper 2018-07-09 EN.18.01 -

8. Taking it apart:

Releasing of air, use a 2mm hex key as a lever to push the main valve forward as seen in the pictures.
To make it easier shoot air shots down as far as possible.

When shroud is removed it can be hard to remove D12, you might need to hit it with a plastic hammer.

There will probably be marks on the barrel from the three screws holding it, grind these down.
Model Other model names Date Revision Revision date
Monsoon repair / service helper 2018-07-09 EN.18.01 -

Dismantling the reloading rod K1 from Brass Bushing D4 and the Aligner K12 is done by hand with a polygrip
plier. The rod is left threaded in the aligner end so when you unscrew it counterclockwise from the brass
bushing it will at the same time separate from the aligner. It might need some heat to let go from the brass
bushing.

9. Rebuild info:

When you rebuild the main block you should only apply a thin layer of gun oil on the hammer assembly and
hammer spring.
You can use a bit more grease on the moving parts such as pellet probe, aligner and in cocking slot.
When you attach barrel make sure the air-channel is aligned, if you remove N3 you can use a hex key to align
the barrel correctly, use a 2,5mm hex key for caliber 5,5mm and 2mm hex key for Caliber 4,5.
Reinstalling reloading rod, Mount the Rod K1 to D4 but let about 4-5mm of the thread be visible.

Use a locking sealant to lock the rod.


For example Loctite 638.
The other end of the rod is left threaded
so this will thread into the aligner K12 at
same time as you do the final attaching to D4.

Hold a firm grip with your left hand at the plastic tube D15, then push the whole piece with the rod and all
down as seen in the picture below and you will feel when the thread goes into the aligner K12, and while
keeping it down you use a polygrip pliers to make the final attachment clockwise.
Model Other model names Date Revision Revision date
Monsoon repair / service helper 2018-07-09 EN.18.01 -

When you re-assemble the D12 air bushing you shall adjust this so that there is 2mm from the front edge of the
cocking slot and the cocking bolt, see picture.

The internal parts in the shroud should be fitted according to the picture and not as in the detail drawing.

Refill of air from Zero, if you fill the rifle from zero you might have problem with the air going straight
thru the rifle and out the barrel. If so just put the cocking bolt in the rear slot and fill again, now the hammer
will not push on the valve.

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