B.

Pharm 6 Sem Herbal Drug Technology

Herbal Cosmetic - According to Drug and cosmetic act, Cosmetics are defined as an articles intended to be
rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part
of body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance.
Herbs includes crude plant materials like leaves, flowers, fruit, seeds, stem, wood, bark, root, rhizome or
other plant parts, which may be entire, fragmented or powdered. Herbal materials also included fresh juices,
gums, fixed oils, essential oils, resins and dry powders of herbs.
Advantages of Herbal Cosmetics over Synthetic cosmetics-
• Natural in nature
• Safe to use
• Compatible with body
• Variety of product
• Affordable and Non expensive
• Not need to tested on animals
• No side effects

Classification of Cosmetics-
1. Skin Care Products
2. Hair Care Products
3. Oral Care Products
1. Skin Care Products
i. Coconut oil- it is obtained from the dried kernel of the fruit or seed of coconut palm tree Cocos
nucifera, family- Arecaceae, which contains about 60- 65% of the oil. Coconut oil is used as a skin
moisturizer and softener.
ii. Olive oil- This oil is a fixed oil extracted from the fruits of Olea europaea, family- Oleaceae. It is used
as skin and hair conditioner in cosmetics like Lotions.
iii. Aloevera- Aloevera is a herbal plant species of Aloe barbadensis, belonging to Liliaceae family. It is an
ingredient in many cosmetics as it heals, moistures, and soft skin. Aloevera provides cleansing action,
vatamins A, C, E, B, choline, B12, B7 and provide anti-oxidant activity.
iv. Carrot- It is obtained from the plant Daucus carota, belonging to family Apiaceae. It is rich in Vitamin
A. Carrot seed oil is used as anti-aging, revitalizing and rejuvenating agent.
v. Ginkgo- The leaves and nuts of the Ginkgo biloba, family- Ginkgoaceae, it has been used as an anti-
oxidant and anti-inflammatory agent. Also has significant anti-fungal, anti-biotic effect.
vi. Neem- Neem belongs to family- Meliaceae and species- Azadirachta indica, it has antifungal, anti-
bacterial and pain relieving properties.

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 B.Pharm 6 Sem Herbal Drug Technology

vii. Green tea- it is obtained from the plant Camelia sinensis, which inhibits two- stage chemical
carcinogenesis.
viii. Calendula- Calendula officinalis have a remarkable anti-oxidant activity, anti-inflammatory activity
and wound healing activity.
ix. Turmeric- It is a deep yellow to orange powder that comes from the underground stems Curcuma longa
of the family- Zingiberaceae. It is used as antiseptic, analgesics, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-
malarial and insect-repellent.
x. Almond- Almond oil is one of the safest oil that can be used in cosmetic products, as it causes less
acidic reactions than any other oils. The oil has been used for skin protection against the dry and hot
climate conditions. It whitens the skin and used in fairness creams.
xi. Sandalwood- Sandalwood is used to freshen and refresh dull skin. Sandalwood paste is used to heal
skin problems and provide glow to the skin. Sandalwood is also used in face packs and scrubs.
xii. Saffron- Saffron helps in cleansing of skin. It is used in cosmetics in production of fairness creams,
cleansers and skin-blemish lotion.

2. Hair Care Products

i. Amla-It is obtained from the plant Emblica officinalis, family- Euphorbiaceae. Amla is rich in vitamin
C, tannins, minerals such as phosphorus, Iron and Calcium which provides nutrition to hair and also
causes darkening of hair.
ii. Almond oil- the almond oil is obtained from Prunus dulcis. The almond oil contains about 78% of fat. It
cantains very small amount super- unsaturated Omega-3 essential fatty acids. It stimulates thicker hair
growth and prevents premature graying of hair.
iii. Shikakai- it is obtained from the plant Acacia concinna, family- Leguminosae. The fruits of this plants
are used for washing hairs, for improving hair growth and also as an expectorant, emetic and purgative.
iv. Henna- Henna comes from the plant Lawsonia inermis, family- Lythraceae. Which contains a dye
molecule known as Lawsone, which when processed produces henna powder. It is used in coloring of
hairs and also has anti- dandruff properties.
v. Brahmi- Centella asiatica, family- Umbelliferae. Is a herb which contains essential oils, sterols,
flavonol, glycosides and triterpenoid saponins. Brahmi oil is used in hair care formulations. It delays
graying of hairs.
vi. Bhringraj- Bhringraj species Eclipta alba, family- Asteraceae, is an annual or perennial plant found in
moist places throughout India. Bhringraj mainly contains alkaloids (Ecliptine), glycosides (β- amyrin),

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 B.Pharm 6 Sem Herbal Drug Technology

triterpenic acid and steroids (ecalbasaponins). Brahmi oil is very good as hair tonic and used in hair
formulation for healthy.

3. Oral Care Products

i. Clove- Eugenia caryophyllus, Myrtaceae is consists of essential oils, eugenol, isoeugenol, eugenol
acetate, β- caryophylline. It has analgesic, antibacterial, antiviral, anti- inflammatory, antioxidants
properties.
ii. Tea tree oil- it has antiseptic, antifungal, non-irritant properties and also used as a mild solvent. The
major active component is terpinene-4-ol. Tea tree oil has been used to destroy micro-organism in the
mouth before dental.
iii. Triphala- triphala is a powder combination of amalaki, haritaki and bibhitaki. It contains ascorbic acid,
thiamin, riboflavin and niacin. It is antioxidant, antimicrobial. It is used in dental caries, bleeding and
ulcerated gums
iv. Garlic- Allium sativum, when held in mouth for 5 minutes it sterilizes the oral cavity, as it has strong
antibacterial activity.
v. Aloe- it has strong immune modulating and healing properties. It is analgesic, antibacterial, antiviral,
antifungal, antioxidant immune modulating, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory. Aloe vera is used in the sites
of periodontal surgery, toothpick injuries, chemical burns,

Herbal excipients- Pharmaceutical excipients can be defined as nonactive ingredients that are mixed with
therapeutically active compound(s) to form medicines. Excipients affect the behaviour and effectiveness of
the drug product more and more functionality and significantly.

Significance of Natural Excipients- These polymers such as natural gums and mucilage are biocompatible,
cheap and easily available and are preferred to semi synthetic and synthetic excipients because of their lack
of toxicity, low cost, availability, soothing action and non-irritant nature.

Advantage of Herbal Excipients

• Biodegradable: Naturally occurring polymers produced by all living organisms. They show no
adverse effects on the environment or human being.
• Biocompatible and non-toxic: Chemically, nearly all of these plant materials are carbohydrates in
nature and composed of repeating monosaccharide units. Hence they are non-toxic.

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B.Pharm 6 Sem Herbal Drug Technology

• Economic: They are cheaper and their production cost is less than synthetic material.
• Safe and devoid of side effects: They are from a natural source and hence, safe and without side
effects.
• Easy availability: In many countries, they are produced due to their application in many industries.
Classification of excipients:
Excipients are commonly classified according to their application and function in the drug products:
a) Herbal Sweetners
b) Binders, diluents
c) Disintegrants
d) Colorants
e) Viscosity builders
f) Perfumery agents and flavoring agents

a) Herbal Sweetners-
1. Stevia: It’s extracted from the leaves of a plant called Stevia rebaudiana. Several sweet compounds are
found in stevia leaves. The main ones are stevioside and rebaudioside A. Stevia is very sweet but has
virtually no calories. It has no effect on blood pressure that is normal or only mildly elevated. Stevia has also
been shown to lower blood sugar levels in people with diabetes.

2. Erythritol: It is another low-calorie sweetener. It’s a sugar alcohol found naturally in certain fruits. It
contains 0.24 calories per gram, or about 6% of the calories in an equal amount of sugar, with 70% of the
sweetness. Erythritol doesn't spike blood sugar or insulin levels. It’s absorbed into the body from the
intestine but eventually excreted from the kidneys unchanged.

3. Glycyrrhiza glabra: Liquorice roots, which are wrinkled and brown on the outside and yellow on the
inside, contain glycyrrhizin, a compound that is 50 to 150 times as sweet as cane sugar.

4. Thaumatin: The Thaumatins are a family of very sweet proteins present in the fruits of the tropical plant
Thaumatococcus danielli (Marantaceae) a bushy plant. Thaumatin elicits a very sweet taste that is rated to be
2000 to 10000 times sweeter than sucrose. Thaumatin is effective at masking bitter notes often associated
with pharmaceuticals or vitamins.

Amit Kr. Shukla KIPM

B.Pharm 6 Sem Herbal Drug Technology

b) Natural Binding agents-

A binding agent (or binder) is a substance that holds or draws other materials together mechanically,
chemically or as an adhesive, to form a cohesive whole.
1. Pectin: Pectins are non-starch, linear polysaccharides extracted from the plant cell walls. In the food
industry, folic acid incorporated microcapsules were prepared using alginate. The blended alginate and
pectin polymer matrix increased the folic acid encapsulation efficiency and reduced leakage from the
capsules.
2. Guar gum: Guar gum comes from the endosperm of the seed of the legume plant Cyamopsis
tetragonolobus. Strong acids cause hydrolysis and loss of viscosity, and alkalies in strong concentration
also tend to reduce viscosity. It is insoluble in most hydrocarbon solvents.
3. Khaya gum: Khaya gum is a polysaccharide obtained from the incised trunk of the tree Khaya
grandifoliola (family Meliaceae). The gum is naturally available, inexpensive and non-toxic has also
fostered the interest in developing the gum for pharmaceutical use. its potential as a directly
compressible matrix system in the formulation.

c) Herbal diluents: Natural diluents include starches, hydrolyzed starches, and partially pregelatinized
starches. Common diluents include anhydrous lactose, lactose monohydrate, and sugar alcohols such as
sorbitol, xylitol and mannitol.

1. Methyl-cellulose: Methylcellulose is the organic material used as a diluent in the pharmaceutical

formulation. It is the cellulose derivative. It causes the abdominal fullness, difficulty swallowing,
nausea, rectal bleeding, stomach pain, and vomiting.
2. Dicalcium phosphate: Dicalcium phosphate (DCP) is a combination of positively charged particles
of calcium and negatively charged particles of hydrogen phosphate which is interchangeable with the
phosphate in the body.

d) Binders: Excipients are also known as additives, which are used with active pharmaceutical ingredients
to convert in to a pharmaceutical dosage form for suitable administration. They ensure that the
formulations are manufactured according to required physical strength and quantity. Examples of
dosage form in which binders are used are as follow: Tablets, Pills, Pallets, Granules, and Pastes etc.

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B.Pharm 6 Sem Herbal Drug Technology

e) Flavoring agents: Flavors are used as taste masking agents which hides the unpleasant taste or order of
dosage form. A flavor enhances the likelihood of medicine and makes them more compatible for
patient’s administration.
• Flavoring agents may be artificial or natural.
• Artificial flavoring agents are synthesized in laboratories while natural flavoring agents are extracted
from plants.
• Sweetening agents also separated from plants and also manufactured synthetically. Pastes, Syrups,
Emulsions, Suspensions, Mouth washes etc. Examples of flavoring agents are Black pepper,
Cardamom, Fennel, Ginger, Peppermint, Nutmeg and saffron.
f) Coloring agents: Coloring agents comes under the category of organoleptic agents. Coloring agents
promotes the appearance in pharmaceutical formulations.
• Coloring agents are also used for differentiate of dosage form or for easy identification of
dosage forms.
• Coloring agents are also used as dyes and widely used in cosmetics industries. All coloring
agents used in pharmaceutical industries is approved or certified by FDA.
• Example of dosage forms in which coloring agents are used- Tablets, Pills, Pallets,
Capsules, Pastes, Ointments, Syrups, Emulsions, Suspensions etc.

g) Perfumery agents: An active ingredient is a compound which imparts the aroma to the perfume
compositions or enhances the aroma of an existing perfume compostion. Perfumary agents includes
Musk, sandalwood oil, Rose oil, Jasmine oil, benzoin, Turpentine and Levender oil.

Herbal Formulations

Herbal formulations means a dosage form consisting of one or more herbs or processed herbs in specified
quantities to provide specific nutritional, cosmetic benefits meant for use to diagnose, treat, mitigate diseases
of human beings or animals, alter the structure or physiology of human beings or animals.

1. Herbal syrup: Syrup is a concentrated mixture of sugar in purified water.

• Ayurvedic herbal cough syrup comprising goodness of herbs such as Tulsi, Liquorice, Ginger,
Vasaka which has been reported to provide effective relief in cough without causing adverse effects.
• Combination of these herbs with honey is intended to provide additive benefit in relieving symptoms
of acute non-productive cough.

Amit Kr. Shukla KIPM

B.Pharm 6 Sem Herbal Drug Technology

Preparation of Herbal Syrup-

• An herbal syrup is prepared by combining a concentrated decoction with either honey or sugar, and
sometimes alcohol.
• Mixing a decoction with honey or sugar helps to thicken and preserve the decoction.
• The added sweetener can also help to increase the palatability of some herbs.
• The basic proportions you want to use are 2 parts herbal decoction to 1 part honey or sugar. This is
called a 2:1 ratio.
or 1:1 ratio of decoction to honey/sugar while others find a 1:1 ratio to result in a syrup that is too
sweet.
2. Herbal Tablets: Tablets may be defined as the solid unit dosage form of medicament or medicaments
with suitable excipients and prepared either by molding or by compression.
• The excipients can include diluents, binders, glidants and lubricants to ensure efficient tableting.
• A polymer coating is often applied to make the tablet smoother and easier to swallow, to control
the release rate of the active ingredient, to make it more resistant to the environment (extending
its shelf life), or to enhance the tablet's appearance.
Tablet Evaluation:
Evaluation of tablet includes the assessment of tablets physical, chemical and biological properties.
To studies them the following test are formulated:
• Appearance
• Size and Shape,
• Organoleptic properties,
• Uniformity of thickness,
• Hardness,
• Friability,
• Determination of pH
• Specific gravity
• Stability testing

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B.Pharm 6 Sem Herbal Drug Technology

Novel drug delivery system:

“Novel Drug delivery System (NDDS) refers to the formulations, systems and technologies for transporting
a pharmaceutical compound in the body as it is needed to safely achieve its desired therapeutic effects.
Drug delivery systems (DDS), are based on approaches that are interdisciplinary and that combine
pharmaceutics, bio conjugate chemistry, and molecular biology. It is a novel approach to drug delivery that
addresses the limitations of the traditional drug delivery systems.
The therapeutic benefits of these new systems include: Increased efficacy of the drug, Site specific
delivery, and decreased toxicity/side effects, increased convenience, viable treatments for previously
incurable diseases.

Phytosomes

Phytosomes are also known as herbosomes, are recently added herbal formulations that are better absorbed
than extracts.
• Phytosomes are prepared through the attachment of individual ingredients of herbal extracts to
phosphatidyl-choline, resulting in a formulation having higher solubility and hence better absorption
Various popular herbal extracts including Ginkgo biloba, grape seed, hawthorn, green tea, and
ginseng have been incorporated in phytosomes.
• Phytosomes, also known as phospholipid complexes, are well-known delivery systems that are
closely related to liposomes in terms of their structure and configuration.
• The chemical bonding ensures the stability of phytosomes, enhances the encapsulation efficiency and
stability of bioactives, generally at a stoichiometric molar ratio of 1:1 or 1:2 (phospholipids:
phytochemicals).
• Phytosomes were found to improve solubility, permeability rate and bioavailability of active
compounds in various cases and inhibit or delay physical and chemical degradation.

Advantages of Phytosomes

i. Improve the absorption of lipid insoluble polar phytoconstituents, enhance the bioavailability.
ii. Appreciable drug entrapment which becomes very beneficial.
iii. Reduce the dose due to increased absorption.
iv. Phosphatidylcholine shows synergistic effect because it is a hepatoprotactive also.
v. Phytosomes are more stable because of the chemical bonding between the phytoconstituents and
vi. carrier i.e., phophatidylcholine.
vii. Effective in cosmetics.

Amit Kr. Shukla KIPM