PASSIVE SOLAR BUILDING

ABSTRACT
Houses generally refer to a shelter or building that is meant as a dwelling or place for
habitation by human beings. “Houses” include many kinds of dwelling ranging from
rudimentary huts or nomadic tribes to high-rise apartment buildings.

A major constraint in meeting this demand is the spiraling cost of energy and other
changes in climate. Passive solar buildings aim to maintain interior thermal comfort
throughout the sun's daily and annual cycles whilst reducing the requirement for active
heating and cooling system Passive solar building design is one part of green building
design, The scientific basis for passive solar building design has been developed from a
combination of climatology, thermodynamics (particularly heat transfer), and human
thermal comfort (for buildings to be inhabited by humans). Specific attention is directed
to the site and location of the dwelling, the prevailing climate, design and construction,
solar orientation, placement of glazing-and-shading elements, and incorporation of
thermal mass. While these considerations may be directed to any building, achieving an
ideal solution requires careful integration of these principles.

They present seminar intends to discuss

➢ Demand for Passive solar building design.
➢ Interior thermal comfort
➢ Energy savings in the in future by fallowing passive building
design.
➢ Orientation of building according to solar path
➢ Passive solar heating strategies & relative design method.
➢ Environment – friendly, energy-efficient technology

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CONTENTS

1. Introduction
2. Components
2.1 Collection
2.2 Storage
2.3 Distribution
2.4 Control
3. Passive solar building design principles
3.1 Orientation
3.2 Overhangs and Shading
3.3 Windows
3.4 Thermal mass
4. Passive Solar Building Design Concepts
4.1 Direct Gain
4.2 Indirect Gain
4.3 Integrated Gain (Sunspace)
4.4 Passive Solar Cooling
4.5 Passive Solar Lighting
5. Conclusions
6. References

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Chapter 1
INTRODUCTION

New construction offers the greatest opportunity for incorporating passive solar
design, Passive solar system make use of natural energy flows as the primary means of
harvesting solar energy, Passive solar system can provide space heating, cooling load
avoidance, natural ventilation and day lighting.

Passive solar design refers to the use of the sun's energy for the heating and cooling
of living spaces. In this approach, the building itself or some element of it takes
advantage of natural energy characteristics in materials and air created by exposure to the
sun. Passive systems are simple, have few moving parts, and require minimal
maintenance and require no mechanical systems

Sun light can provide ample heat, light, and shade and induce summertime ventilation
into the well-designed home. Passive solar design can reduce heating and cooling energy
bills, increase spatial vitality, and improve comfort.

Solar energy is a radiant heat source that causes natural processes upon which all life
depends. Some of the natural processes can be managed through building design in a
manner that helps heat and cool the building. The basic natural processes that are used in
passive solar energy are the thermal energy flows associated with radiation, conduction,
and natural convection. When sunlight strikes a building, the building materials can
reflect, transmit, or absorb the solar radiation. Additionally, the heat produced by the sun
causes air movement that can be predictable in designed spaces. These basic responses to
solar heat lead to design elements, material choices and placements that can provide
heating and cooling effects in a home.

Passive solar energy means that mechanical means are not employed to utilize solar
energy.

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To get the most from your home - think sun. That's right, the sun can heat and cool your
home and reduce its energy use. More importantly, the energy from the sun can make
your home comfortable year-round.

There are two types of solar design systems -passive and active.

Homes constructed as passive solar design use the natural movement of heat and air to
maintain comfortable temperatures, operating with little or no mechanical assistance. It's
called passive solar because the design of the home maximizes the benefits it receives
from the sun with standard construction features. Passive solar takes advantage of local
breezes and landscape features such as shade trees and windbreaks, and uses a simple
system to collect and store solar energy with no switches or controls.

On the other hand, active solar systems use mechanical devices such as pumps and fans
to move heat from collectors to storage or from storage to use. Photovoltaic panels that
collect solar energy, turning it into electricity, are also considered an active solar system.

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Chapter.2
COMPONENTS

Fig.1: Components

2.1. Collection:

Passive heating concepts use heat from the sun to offset winter heating needs. The
collection subsystem may include windows, skylights, or some other type of solar
aperture. The purpose of the collection subsystem is to allow sunlight into the building to
heat the space and, if appropriate, to heat the storage mass. The storage subsystem
usually includes parts of the floor or interior walls of the building.

2.2. Storage:

The purpose of the storage subsystem is to store the collected solar heat until it is needed
by the occupants in the building. In most cases, heat is collected during the daytime and
used at night. Stored energy is released from the storage mass and distributed throughout
the building to offset heating energy use.

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2.3. Distribution:

Distribution is accomplished by arranging the functional spaces of the building such that
those that need heat are closest to the storage subsystem. The size and shape of the solar
apertures (collection subsystem) affects the quantity of heating energy available to offset
auxiliary heating energy needs. The size of the storage subsystem affects the quantity of
heat stored and the time delay between initial collection and final use of energy. The size,
shape, and location of rooms in the building impact the optimum distribution of the heat
throughout the building. Heat distribution is accomplished by a combination of radiation
and convection. Heat is radiated from the storage subsystem into the rooms being heated
after the collected solar energy has passed through the storage system. Heat is convected
through the air, warming it, and thereby warming the people in the room.

2.4. Control:

Control of the passive heating system might be quite different from control of an HV or
HVAC system. In many passive buildings, control is achieved through the use of shading
devices, or some other means to regulate the sunlight entering the building. More
complex passive buildings may also have thermostats to control fans and motors that
regulate the air flow control vents. In many passive buildings, the control mechanisms are
manual; that is, people control the building. A balance between the size, shape, and
location of each subsystem must be achieved to ensure optimal system performance and
Efficiency. If the collection subsystem is too large or too small, then either too much
energy is collected and the building is overheated or not enough energy is collected to be
effective. Similarly, if the storage subsystem is improperly sized, then it either holds the
energy in storage too long (oversized) or not long enough (undersized) to provide heat to
the building when it is needed. Finally, if the spaces of the building are not correctly
organized, the heat cannot be distributed in a manner that ensures optimal auxiliary
heating energy savings and comfort. In developing this handbook, extensive analysis was
done to determine the -optimal size of different subsystems for various climate zones and
building types.

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Chapter.3
THE BASIC SOLAR DESIGN PRINCIPLES

3.1 Orientation
3.2 Overhangs and shading
3.3 Windows
3.4 Thermal mass

3.1 Orientation

Fig.2 : Orientation

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Here's a news flash...the sun rises in the east and sets in the west. Here's another... the sun
is higher in the summer sky and lower in the winter sky. So what does that have to do
with a passive-design house? Everything. This simple lesson of nature literally sets the
foundation for a well-designed solar home.
When settlers constructed haciendas and missions in early California, they used a simple
and inexpensive design technique that today's builders all-too-often overlook: placing a
building in its natural surroundings to make it more comfortable for its inhabitants. Early
Spanish designs were usually long rectangular buildings, situated so their longer walls
faced toward the south to absorb the heat from the low winter sun. In the summer, when
the sun was higher in the sky, long porches helped to shade the buildings and keep them
cooler.
Early Californians knew that the key to good solar design is to face it south. There is no
substitute for a site with good southern exposure.

Today's passive design solar home is based on exactly the same principles. When
sunlight falls on or in a house, it is converted to heat- so the business end of a home, at
least from an energy perspective, is the south side.
If possible, the longer axis of the building, also known as the ridge line, should be
oriented east/west. By facing the ridge line in that direction, the longer dimension of your
home faces sunny south. The optimum position for maximum solar benefits is true south
but you can vary the orientation within 20 degrees of that direction with minimal effect.
In most parts of the U.S., however, just making the building the right shape, properly
placing its windows and pointing it in the right direction can cut the building's total
energy use by 30 percent- 40 percent at no extra cost.

Areas which are most frequently used should be located on the longer, south side of the
building, where sunlight can enter through windows in the south side, high clerestories
windows, or skylights. The shorter east/west side reduces the amount of surface area
exposed to the sun and cuts down of heat gain. Spaces such as garages, storage or laundry
rooms can be situated on the house's east/west facing "short side" where they act as an
additional thermal (or heat) buffer.

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Since you live in your home summer and winter, you should design it for the entire year.
It is important to be comfortable all year long, not just a single season. Sometimes, solar
homes are built with large areas of upward, tilted, south-facing glass, designed to catch
every bit of sun, winter or summer. While tilted glass does maximize heat gain during the
winter months, it also maximizes that same heat gain during the summer. If you
understand that the rays of sun's high summer arc will bounce off vertical, south-facing
glass and reduce heat gain, you can let nature do the work for you in a passively designed
home. Remember, too, that heating and cooling needs differ from locale to locale -
Sacramento's climate (in California's Central Valley) is a lot different than San
Francisco's climate, even though they are only 100 miles apart and virtually at the same
latitude.
Designing for all 12 months means knowing the environmental particulars and weather
patterns that relate to your home's site. Sometimes those factors can be as important as
facing the building south.
Landscape features such as trees, rocky outcroppings, small hills or water can impact
how your home performs. Become familiar with the prevailing winds and the pattern of
air movement on your property - this knowledge will help you use trees and other natural
features to direct summer breezes into the house while channelling cold winter winds
away from it. Evergreen trees or a sheltering hilly outcropping on the north can buffer
winter winds and harsh weather. Deciduous trees placed on the south and east or west
can shade your home in the summer before dropping their leaves in the winter to let the
sunlight into your home.

3.2 overhangs and shading

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Fig.3 : Overhangs and shading

Keep the sun off the glass in the summer. Let the sun fall on the glass in the winter. How
can you do both? Shade, of course.
Overhangs are one of the best (and least costly) shade design elements to include in your
home. In the summer, when the sun is high in the sky, the overhangs should shade the
room completely. In the winter, when the sun is low, the overhangs should allow the full
sun to enter, warming the air, as well as the floor, wall and other features.
It's important that overhangs are properly sized. If they are too short and in the summer,
your south-facing glass can act as a solar cooker for your living spaces. If they are too
long, your living areas will stay dark and cool not only in the summer, but in the winter
as well.
The best scheme to keeping your home cool is not to let it get hot in the first place, so use
shade when possible. Besides overhangs, shading can be provided by several other
means: cover panels over skylights, insulated drapes or shutters, exterior shades, awnings
and landscaping.
Properly placed trees and vine-covered trellises can stop summer sun on the south, east
and west sides of your home. Landscaping is one of the best methods to keep your home
cool. The temperature inside your home can increase as much as 20 degrees or more if
east and west windows and walls are not shaded.
Deciduous trees and vines make good partners with passive-designed buildings because
they lose their leaves in the winter and permit more sunlight to pass through during the
cold season. Trees also take overhangs one step further - they can lower roof and attic

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temperatures by shading the roof as well as blocking direct solar gain. Care must be taken
in planting trees, however, so their shadows will not fall on solar collectors used for
water heating.

3.3 Windows
Keep the sun off the glass in the summer. Let the sun fall on the glass in the winter. How
can you do both? Shade, of course.
Overhangs are one of the best (and least costly) shade design elements to include in your
home. In the summer, when the sun is high in the sky, the overhangs should shade the
room completely. In the winter, when the sun is low, the overhangs should allow the full
sun to enter, warming the air, as well as the floor, wall and other features.
It's important that overhangs are properly sized. If they are too short and in the summer,
your south-facing glass can act as a solar cooker for your living spaces. If they are too
long, your living areas will stay dark and cool not only in the summer, but in the winter
as well.
The best scheme to keeping your home cool is not to let it get hot in the first place, so use
shade when possible. Besides overhangs, shading can be provided by several other
means: cover panels over skylights, insulated drapes or shutters, exterior shades, awnings
and landscaping.
Properly placed trees and vine-covered trellises can stop summer sun on the south, east
and west sides of your home. Landscaping is one of the best methods to keep your home
cool. The temperature inside your home can increase as much as 20 degrees or more if
east and west windows and walls are not shaded.
Deciduous trees and vines make good partners with passive-designed buildings because
they lose their leaves in the winter and permit more sunlight to pass through during the
cold season. Trees also take overhangs one step further - they can lower roof and attic
temperatures by shading the roof as well as blocking direct solar gain. Care must be taken
in planting trees, however, so their shadows will not fall on solar collectors used for
water heating.

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3.4 Thermal mass

Fig.4: Thermal mass

So far everything described as a passive home is basic, smart construction. What truly
sets a passive design home apart from a standard tract home is thermal mass.
If solar heat is to be used when the sun is not shining, excess heat must be stored.
Everyone has leaned against a sun-warmed brick or stone. It's warm and comfortable and
takes a while to cool off. That's thermal mass. Thermal mass is simply a solid or liquid
material that will absorb and store warmth and coolness until it is needed.
Thermal mass in the form of concrete, masonry or water has a much better storage
capacity for heating and cooling than does the surrounding air. That's why thermal mass
acts to prevent large changes of indoor temperature as the outdoor temperatures rise or
fall. In fact, a well designed solar home can hold an interior temperature between 68 and
70 degrees, balancing the square footage of glass (solar collectors) and the right amount
of effective thermal storage mass.
In winter, thermal mass absorbs heat by direct sunlight. At night the process is reversed
as thermal mass gives up heat, warming the room
by radiation, convection and conduction. In the summer, thermal mass should be shaded
so it draws the warmth from the surrounding air and cools the room. The greater the area
of thermal mass, the greater its ability to store heat and maintain a uniform temperature.

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There are two ways thermal mass works in a passive design home: direct solar
gain and indirect solar gain.
How thermal mass is used in a passively designed home is the owner's choice. Thermal
mass can take numerous forms such as brick, tile or thick concrete floors (called a Solar
Slab). It can also be a large brick or stone internal fireplace or an interior wall made of
adobe or brick.
A masonry or concrete wall (called a Trombe Wall) or water filled containers (called
a Tube Wall) can also be used to absorb heat and cool. This type of system must have
southern exposure and receive direct sunlight.
Regardless of which type of passive system is installed in your home, it must be
thoughtfully designed, balancing glazing with thermal storage mass.

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Chapter.4
Passive Solar Building Design Concepts :
A total of eleven different passive concepts will be considered. Many other possible solar
concepts were evaluated. The ones listed below are appropriate in a wide range of
climates and building types.
• (H) Direct gain with storage
• (H) Indirect gain
• (H) Direct gain (without storage)
• (H) Sunspaces
• (C) Night Mechanical Ventilation
• (C) Natural Ventilation
• (L) Windows
• (L) Skylights
• (L) Sawtooth Apertures
• (L) Monitor Apertures
• (L) Atria
The letters (H), (C), and (L) stand for heating, cooling, and lighting, respectively, and are
used to remind you of the purpose for each passive solar system concept.

4.1 Direct Gain

In this system, the actual living space is a solar collector, heat absorber and
distribution system. South facing glass admits solar energy into the house where it
strikes directly and indirectly thermal mass materials in the house such as masonry
floors and walls. The direct gain system will utilize 60 - 75% of the sun's energy
striking the windows.

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Fig.5: Thermal mass in the interior absorbs the sunlight and radiates the heat at night

In a direct gain system, the thermal mass floors and walls are functional parts of the
house. It is also possible to use water containers inside the house to store heat. However,
it is more difficult to integrate water storage containers in the design of the house.

Fig.6: Direct Gain plus Storage.

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Air National Guard Composite Operations and Training Facility, Bangor, Maine.
NOTE:The illuminated mass wall on the left of the picture and the sloped direct gain
apertures in the roof.

Direct gain system rules of thumb:

A heat load analysis of the house should be conducted.

• Do not exceed 6 inches of thickness in thermal mass materials.

• Do not cover thermal mass floors with wall to wall carpeting; keep as bare as
functionally and aesthetically possible.
• Use a medium dark color for masonry floors; use light colors for other lightweight
walls; thermal mass walls can be any color.
• For every square foot of south glass, use 150 pounds of masonry or 4 gallons of
water for thermal mass.
• Fill the cavities of any concrete block used as thermal storage with concrete.
• Use thermal mass at less thickness throughout the living space rather than a
concentrated area of thicker mass.
• The surface area of mass exposed to direct sunlight should be 9 times the area of
the glazing.
• Sun tempering is the use of direct gain without added thermal mass. For most
homes, multiply the house square footage by 0.08 to determine the amount of
south facing glass for sun tempering.

Fig.7: Casting of L-Panel

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4.2 Indirect Gain

In an indirect gain system, thermal mass is located between the sun and the living
space. The thermal mass absorbs the sunlight that strikes it and transfers it to the living
space by conduction. The indirect gain system will utilize 30 – 45% of the sun’s energy
striking the glass adjoining the thermal mass.

Fig.8: Indirect gain

Here there are two types of indirect gain systems:

• Thermal storage wall systems (Trombe Walls)

• Roof pond systems

Thermal Storage Wall –In Direct gain system a passive solar heating system consisting
of a south facing wall constructed of heavy masonry (Trombe Wall) or water filled
containers (water wall). The outside south-facing surface is glazed to admit sunlight and
reduce heat losses.

Thermal storage wall systems:

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The thermal mass is located immediately behind south facing glass in this system.

Fig 9: Thrombe wall

Thermal Mass Walls or Trombe Wall Day and Night Operable vents at the top and
bottom of a thermal storage wall permit heat to convect from between the wall and the
glass into the living space. When the vents are closed at night radiant heat from the wall
heats the living space.

Roof pond systems:

Six to twelve inches of water are contained on a flat roof.

This system is best for cooling in low humidity climates but can be modified to work in
high humidity climates. (Effectively provides heat in southern U.S. latitudes during the
heating season for one story or upper stories of buildings.)

Water is usually stored in large plastic or fiberglass containers covered by glazing and the
space below is warmed by radiant heat from the warm water above.

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These require somewhat elaborate drainage systems, movable insulation to cover and
uncover the water at appropriate times, and a structural system to support up to 65 lbs/sq
ft dead load.
Indirect gain system rules of thumb for thermal storage walls

• The exterior of the mass wall (toward the sun) should be a dark color.
• Use a minimum space of 4 inches between the thermal mass wall and the glass.
• Vents used in a thermal mass wall must be closed at night.
• A well insulated home (7-9 BTU/day-sq. ft.-degree F) will require approximately
0.20 square feet of thermal mass wall per square foot of floor area or 0.15 square
foot of water wall.
• If movable night insulation will be used in the thermal wall system, reduce the
thermal mass wall area by 15%.
• Thermal wall thickness should be approximately 10-14 inches for brick, 12-18
inches for concrete, 8-12 inches for adobe or other earth material and at least 6
inches for water.

4.3 Isolated Gain:

An isolated gain system has its integral parts separate from the main living area of a
house. Examples are a sunroom and a convective loop through an air collector to a
storage system in the house. The ability to isolate the system from the primary living
areas is the point of distinction for this type of system.

The isolated gain system will utilize 15 - 30% of the sunlight striking the glazing
toward heating the adjoining living areas. Solar energy is also retained in the sunroom
itself.

Sunrooms (or solar greenhouses) employ a combination of direct gain and indirect
gain system features. Sunlight entering the sunroom is retained in the thermal mass and
air of the room. Sunlight is brought into the house by means of conduction through a
shared mass wall in the rear of the sunroom, or by vents that permit the air between the
sunroom and living space to be exchanged by convection.

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The use of a south facing air collector to naturally convict air into a storage area is a
variation on the active solar system air collector. These are passive collectors. Convective
air collectors are located lower than the storage area so that the heated air generated in the
collector naturally rises into the storage area and is replaced by return air from the lower
cooler section of the storage area. Heat can be released from the storage area either by
opening vents that access the storage by mechanical means (fans), or by conduction if the
storage is built into the house.

The sunroom has some advantages as an isolated gain approach in that it can provide
additional usable space to the house and plants can be grown in it quite effectively.

The convective air collector by comparison becomes more complex in trying to

achieve additional functions from the system. This is a drawback in this area where space
heating is less of a concern than in colder regions where the system would be used
longer. It is best to use a system that provides more than one function if the system is not
an integral part of the building. The sunroom approach will be emphasized in this
information since it can provide multiple functions.

Fig.10: Day and Night Operation of a Sunroom Isolated Gain System

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Sunrooms (Sunspace):

Sunrooms can feature sloped and/or overhead glass, but is not recommended for the
Austin area. A sunroom will function adequately without overhead or sloped glazing.
Due to long hot summers in this area, it is important to use adequate ventilation to let the
heat out. Sloped or overhead glazing is also a maintenance concern. Due to the intensity
of weather conditions for glazing facing the full .I. ventilation: passive design and brunt
of the sun and rain, seals between the gazing panels need to be of extremely high material
and installation quality.

A thermal wall on the back of the sunroom against the living space will function like
the indirect gain thermal mass wall. With a thermal wall in the sunroom, the extra heat -
During the day can be brought into the living space via high and low vents like in the
indirect gain thermal wall.

More elaborate uses of the heated air generated in the sunspace can be designed into
this system, such as transferring the hot air into thermal mass located in another part of
the house.
Isolated Gain rules of thumb for sunrooms:

o Use a dark color for the thermal wall in a sunspace.

o The thickness of the thermal wall should be 8-12 inches for adobe or earth
materials, 10-14 inches for brick, 12-18 inches for (dense) concrete.
o Withdraw excess heat in the sunroom (if not used for warm weather plants) until
the room reaches 45 degrees and put the excess heat into thermal mass materials
in other parts of the house.
o For a sunroom with a masonry thermal wall, use 0.30 square feet of south glazing
for each square foot of living space floor area. If a water wall is used between the
sunroom and living space instead of masonry, use 0.20 square feet of south facing
glass for each square foot of living area.
o Have a ventilation system for summer months.

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o If overhead glass is used in a sunroom, use heat reflecting glass and or shading
systems in the overhead areas.
•

Fig .11: sun space

4.4 Passive Solar Cooling:

• Ventilation & Operable Windows

A primary strategy for cooling buildings without mechanical assistance (passive

cooling) in hot humid climates is to employ natural ventilation. (The Fan and Landscape
sections also address ventilation strategies.) In the Austin area, prevailing summer
breezes are from the south and southeast. This matches nicely with the increased glazing
on the south side needed for passive heating, making it possible to achieve helpful solar
gain and ventilation with the following strategies:

• Place operable windows on the south exposure.

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• Casement windows offer the best airflow. Awning (or hopper) windows should be
fully opened or air will be directed to ceiling. Awning windows offer the best rain
protection and perform better than double hung windows.
• If a room can have windows on only one side, use two widely spaced windows
instead of one window.

• Wing Walls

Wing walls are vertical solid panels placed alongside of windows perpendicular to the
wall on the windward side of the house.

Fig.12: Top View of Wing Walls Airflow Pattern

Wing walls will accelerate the natural wind speed due to pressure differences created by
the wing wall

• Thermal Chimney

A thermal chimney employs convective currents to draw air out of a building. By

creating a warm or hot zone with an exterior exhaust outlet, air can be drawn into the
house ventilating the structure.

Sunrooms can be designed to perform this function. The excessive heat generated in a
south facing sunroom during the summer can be vented at the top. With the connecting
lower vents to the living space open along with windows on the north side, air is drawn
through the living space to be exhausted through the sunroom upper vents. (The upper
vents from the sunroom to the living space and any side operable windows must be
closed and the thermal mass wall in the sunroom must be shaded.)

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Fig.13: Summer Venting Sunroom

Fig.14: Summer Venting Thermal Mass Wall

Thermal mass indirect gain walls can be made to function similarly except that the
mass wall should be insulated on the inside when performing this function.

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Fig.15: Thermal Chimney

Thermal chimneys can be constructed in a narrow configuration (like a chimney) with an

easily heated black metal absorber on the inside behind a glazed front that can reach high
temperatures and be insulated from the house. The chimney must terminate above the
roof level. A rotating metal scoop at the top, which opens opposite, the wind will allow
heated air to exhaust without being overcome by the prevailing wind.

Thermal chimney effects can be integrated into the house with open stairwells and atria.
(This approach can be an aesthetic plus to the home as well.)

Other Ventilation Strategies

• Make the outlet openings slightly larger than the inlet openings.
• Place the inlets at low to medium heights to provide airflow at occupant levels in
the room.

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Fig.16: Thermal Chimney Effect Built into Home

Inlets close to a wall result in air "washing" along the wall. Be certain to have centrally
located inlets for air movement in the center areas of the room.

Window insect screens decrease the velocity of slow breezes more than stronger breezes
(60% decrease at 1.5 mph, 28% decrease at 6 mph). Screening a porch will not reduce air
speeds as much as screening the windows.

Night ventilation of a home should be done at a ventilation rate of 30 air changes per
hour or greater. Mechanical ventilation will be required to achieve this.

High mass houses can be cooled with night ventilation providing that fabric furnishings
are minimized in the house.

Keep a high mass house closed during the day and opened at night.

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4.5 Passive solar lighting:

Skylights:

Fig.17:Skylight schematic.

Skylights (SKY), as illustrated in Figure, are horizontal apertures cut through the roof of
a building.

Fig.18: Skylights

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SAWTOOTH APERTURES:

Sawtooth apertures (SAW), as schematically illustrated in Figure below, are a toplighting

system that includes a glazed vertical surface and a sloped roof. The name comes from
the fact that a series of these apertures look like the teeth of a handsaw. In some
literature, this type of aperture is called a roof clerestory.

Fig.19: illustrates sawtooth apertures schematic

Monitor Apertures

Monitor apertures (MON) were initially developed during the 19th century for use in
industrial facilities that had high- and low-bay areas side by side. See Figure. The
highbay is extended beyond the roof line and glazed on two opposing sides that extend
above the roof. Both sawtooth and monitor apertures are appropriate in almost all one-
story buildings that have large open areas, such as industrial facilities, maintenance
facilities, and warehouses.

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Fig.20: Monitor aperture schematic.

Atrium:

Atrium: In multistory commercial-type buildings, the most difficult location to daylight is

the center of the building, called the building core. An atrium (ATR) is a core daylighting
concept that opens up the center of the building so that it can he daylight. See Figure. An
atrium works best when the perimeter of the building, within 15 ft of the exterior walls, is
daylighted using sidelighting techniques. An atrium can be capped with any of the roof
aperture systems previously discussed.

Fig.21: Atrium schematic

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Chapter.5
Conclusions

• Passive solar building design is a part of green building design by the providing
this type of design; we can able to use solar energy, which offers no cost & our
non-renewable resources can be saved to a larger extent.

• Passive solar building design provides thermal comfort during various seasons,
like summer, winter & it is very use full design to provide natural ventilation in
the building, passive solar provides natural light by installation of photovoltaic,
which didn’t require any other source of energy, proper orientation of building
can be done by this type of design.

• As we are seeing the day by day the earths weather condition is changing
improperly due to the pollution which we are making on the earth, & global
temperature is also raising day by day, This year in India we are observing a
Highest temperature of 47o C, in north, so there is a lot of scope for this type of
construction which provide us a complete comfort during all seasons and all
weathering condition.

• In western countries this type of construction is common scenario, and they have
codal provisions for Passive solar design, but unfortunately in India we are still
lacking behind, this is a very vast study area to deal with, So i expect this report
may help us to know something about the need for this subject.

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Chapter.6
References:

1. ^ Doerr 2012.

2. ^ Norton 2014.

3. ^ "U.S. Department of Energy - Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy - Energy

Plus Energy Simulation Software". Retrieved 2011-03-27.

4.abRating tools". Archived from the original on September 30, 2007. Retrieved
2011-11-03.

5. ^ a b c Talamon, Attila (7 Aug 2013). "Passive Solar Design in Architecture - New

Trend?". Governee.

6. ^http://www.srrb.noaa.gov/highlights/sunrise/fig5_40n.gi fbare URL image file]

7.^http://www.srrb.noaa.gov/highlights/sunrise/fig5_On.gifbare URL image file]

8.Ahttp://www.srrb.noaa.gov/highlights/sunrise/fig5_90n.gi fbare URL image file]

9. ^ a b "Your Home Technical Manual - 4.3 Orientation - Part 1 [29 November 2012.
Archived from the original on 2012-11-09.

10. Aab- b "Your Home Technical Manual - 4.7 Insulation" C. 25 March 2012.
Archived from the original on 2012-03- 25.

11. ^ "BERC - Airtightness". Ornl.gov. 2004-05-26. Archived from the original on

2010-08-28. Retrieved 2010-03-16.

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