Cosmetic product

development
Formulations:

1) Mouthwash
2) Toothpaste
3) Body lotion
4) Deodorant cream
5) Deodorant lotion
6) Deodorant foot powder
7) Lipstick
8) Compressed Face Powder

Reminders:
To all:
1) Identify all the needed material/apparatus and chemicals in each
experiment. And write it’s functions/uses.
2) Memorize all the experiment procedures, materials, chemicals and its uses
for the oral exam.
For those who will join the f2f:
1) Bring the following materials = Suitable container for your product, Liquid
soap with sponge, Rags, Tissue, small masking tape and scissor.

Online:
> Make or design a packaging (Primary and Secondary) of each formulation.
Write all the details and informations needed.
 Mouthwash
Materials Quantities

Potassium bicarbonate 10 g

Sodium borate/teraborate 10 g

Thymol 0.25 g

Eucalyptol 1 ml

Methyl Salicylate 0.25 ml

Amaranth solution 7 ml

Alcohol 25 ml

Glycerin 50 ml

Purified water q.s 1000 ml

Procedures:
1) Dissolve the potassium bicarbonate and sodium borate in 100 mL purified water, and the glycerin.
2) When effervescence has ceased, add the mix to 500mL purified water.
3) Dissolve the other ingredients in the alcohol, and add the solution of salts to the alcoholic solutions
with the agitation on the bottle shaking machine.
4) Then add sufficient quantity of purified water to make the product measure 1000mL .
5) Allow the mixture to stand, with occasional shaking during 24 hours.
6) Filter using talc, if necessary to produce a clear solution.

Questions:

1) What are the synonyms of mouthwash?

 breath freshener
 gargling liquid
 gargle
 rinse

2) What is the different between gargle and a mouthwash?

Gargles are aqueous solutions frequently containing antiseptics, antibiotics, and/or anesthetics
used for treating the pharynx and nasopharynx by forcing air from the lungs through the gargle held in
the throat; subsequently, the gargle is expectorated. Many gargles must be diluted with water prior to
use. While a mouthwash are aqueous solutions, often in concentrated form, containing one or more
active ingredients and excipients. They are used by swishing the liquid in the oral cavity. Mouthwashes
can be used for two purposes: therapeutic and cosmetic.

3) What are the uses of the ingredients in the above formulation?

 Potassium bicarbonate: buffer the intraoral pH, and lubricate and clear the mouth of viscous
salivary secretions
 Sodium borate/teraborate: Used as a preservative, buffer, antiseptic and fungicide
 Thymol: antiseptic with antibacterial and antifungal activity
 Eucalyptol: antibacterial properties, anti-fungal agent
 Methyl salicylate: flavouring; overcomes disagreeable tastes
 Amaranth solution: for mouth ulcers, and swollen mouth and throat
 Alcohol: enhances the flavor, provides sharpness to the taste, aids in masking the unpleasant
taste of active ingredients, functions as a solubilizing agent for some flavoring agents, and
may function as a preservative
 Glycerin: humectant; increase the viscosity of the preparation and provide a certain body or
mouth feel to the product. It enhance the sweetness of the product
 Purified water: solvent

4) What are the uses of mouthwash?

 Therapeutic rinses or washes can be formulated to reduce plaque, gingivitis, dental caries, and
stomatitis.
 Cosmetic mouthwashes may be formulated to reduce bad breath through the use of
antimicrobial and/or flavoring agents.

Pink Toothpaste

Materials Quantities

Calcium carbonate 16.7 g

Tricalcium orthophosphate 13.4 g

Saccharin 0.016 g

Soap powder 3.3 g

Tragacanth 0.03 g

Peppermint oil 0.17 g

Spearmint oil 0.03 ml

Methyl salicylate 0.06 ml

Clarified honey 5 ml

Glycerin 5 ml
 Liquid paraffin/Mineral oil 0.33 ml

Purified water 10 ml

Procedures:

1) Sift the powders together in the vibration sieve and table.

2) Mix the honey, glycerin and water in a beaker.
3) Place the powder mixture in the mixer and kneader/blender.
4) Add the mixture slowly with trituration to the powder mixture until the desired
consistency is produced.
5) Add the following agents and tragacanth. Mix well.
6) Finally add the soap gradually and liquid paraffin. Triturate well.
7) Pass the product through the fine sieve if necessary to remove grits or lumps of
congealed soap. Allow the cream to stand in a few hours. Then fill in the tube.

Questions:

1) What is the basic function of toothpaste?

 Its basic function is to remove plaque.

2) What are the uses of the ingredients of pink toothpaste?

 Calcium carbonate: a common abrasive that helps remove plaque, debris and
surface stains
 Tricalcium orthophosphate: controls the delivery of calcium and phosphate
ions to the teeth, works synergistically with fluoride to improve performance
 Saccharin: sweetener for flavoring
 Soap powder: to loosen and break down substances on your teeth that would
otherwise not be soluble; foaming agent
 Tragacanth: thickening agent
 Peppermint oil: antimicrobial; flavoring
 Spearmint oil: antimicrobial; flavoring
 Methyl salicylate: antiseptic
 Clarified honey: antibacterial
 Glycerin: keeps the toothpaste from drying out; humectant
 Liquid paraffin/Mineral oil: improved dental biofilm control
 Purified water: solvent

3) Is toothpaste considered a cream? Why?

 Toothpaste are dental creams which foams. In pharmaceutical preparations,
cream is a semisolid dosage form being either an emulsion of oil and water or
an aqueous microcrystalline dispersion of a long chain fatty acid or alcohol.
Essentially, it is a preparation of oil in water.

4) The color of the toothpaste depends on what factor?

The color usually depends on the sensory effect in correlation to its advertised
flavour.

Shampoo

Materials Quantities

Soft soap 25 ml

Alcohol 62.5 ml

Lavender oil 1.25 ml

Rosemary oil 0.5 ml

Rose-geranium oil 0.75 ml

Solution of Potash, 5% 12.5 ml

Purified Water 147.5 ml

Procedures:

1) Dissolve the soap in alcohol and add the oil.

2) Mix the solution of 5% potash with 500mL of water and add gradually to the
alcohol mixture.
3) Add enough water to volume.

Questions:

1) What are shampoos?

Shampoos are for cleansing the scalp and hair. Anionic surfactants are used as
the major cleansing agent, and amphoteric surfactants are also combined as the
second cleansing agent. Nonionic surfactants such as alkanol amides stabilize foams
and increase viscosity.

2) What are the uses of each of the ingredients in the above formulation?
 Soft soap: foaming agent
 Alcohol: preservative; antiseptic
 Lavender oil: active ingredient; fragrance
 Rosemary oil: active ingredient; fragrance soothes the hair
 Rose-geranium oil: active ingredient; fragrance; restores and shine to
curly, dry and frizzy hair
 Solution of Potash, 5%: base
 Purified Water: solvent

3) What are some of the medicated (anti-dandruff) shampoos in the market? Indicate
their active ingredient.

 Salicylic Acid (T/Sal Neutrogena) - an active ingredient whose primary

function is to remove scales and scalp build up in the hair.
 Coal Tar (Redwin) - when incorporated into the product, it specifically aims
dandruff problems or “thick crust” problems, it targets conditions such as
dandruff, psoriasis and eczema.
 Zinc Pyrithione (Scalpex) – it is an antifungal that targets dead skin cells. It is
suitable enough for everyday use, but it is needed to be used more frequently
until dandruff is visually gone.
 Ketoconazole (Nizoral) - it is a fungicide which aims to treat yeast infections
on the scalp. Ketoconazole is deemed as a strong active ingredient.
 Selenium Sulfide (Selsun Blue Pro-X) -when incorporated into the product, it
targets the yeast present on the scalps that when left unmanaged may result to
dandruff. Selenium sulfide can also slow down cell turnover, but it can also
discolor colored hair (blonde, ginger hair, chemically treated hair).

Body Lotion

Materials Quantities

Cetyl alcohol 1.25 g

Stearic acid 5.75 g

Mineral oil 2.75 g

Sodium stearate 0.075 g

 Veegum 11.5 ml

Triethanolamine 0. 58 ml

Perfume (jasmine oil) 0.2 ml

Distilled water 228.6 ml

Procedures:

1) Mix the first four ingredients and heat to 70-80*C in a water bath.
2) Mix separately the Veegum, triethanolamine, and water and heat to 70-80*C and
place in the agitator.
3) Slowly pour the fatty phase into the water phase with stirring.
4) Continue stirring until cool.
5) Add the perfume at 50*C. Mix well.

Questions:

1) What are lotions? How are they applied?

Body lotions are mostly made of water, oil, and other moisturizing
ingredients. A lotion has a greater percentage of water in the formula and is
thinner in consistency. It is easy to spread, quickly absorbed, and feels very
light on the skin. Lotions are reasonably hydrating without feeling heavy and
work well for those with oily skin. To get the most out of a body lotion, apply
it after you get out of the shower or bath, when your skin is warm and damp.

2) What are the uses to stearic acid, Cetyl alcohol, mineral oil, and sodium stearate in
the preparationof lotion?
 Stearic acid: emulsifier, emollient, and lubricant that can soften skin
and help to keep products from separating
 Cetyl alcohol: emulsifier; helps prevent creams from separating into oil
and liquid
 Mineral oil: humectant
 Sodium stearate: stabiliser and thickener

3) What is the basic function of lotion in cosmetics?

Lotions maintain skin's hydration levels by locking in the moisture, keeping
the skin healthy, soft, and supple.
4) In the preparation of the lotion, why the water phase is heated to a temperature
about 10*C higher than the oil phase before mixing?
All ingredients in your water phase are liquid at room temperature, but
you have to heat your water phase to almost the same temperature as the oil
phase to avoid any solidification of high melting point components.

5) Some lotions (like sun tan and sunburn solutions) contain opaque materials like
zinc oxide, and titanium oxide. What is the purpose of adding these materials?
 Zinc oxide: a skin protectant that is used to treat and prevent various skin
conditions including minor abrasions, burns
 Titanium oxide: UV filter and it presents low risk of exposure

6) What are the recommended screening agents for lotions to diminish or prevent
sunburns?
That would be lotions that have an SPF of 30 or higher, accompanied
by UVA filters that are photostable or photo stabilized. Those specifications
are considered as the best choice. Lotions with screening agents is supposed to
not only protect the skin from the sun, but it is also expected to reduce the
long-term health risks associated with solar harm.

Deodorant Cream

Materials Quantities

Aluminum sulfate 36 g

Purified water 40 ml

White petrolatum 78 g

White wax 40 g

Cholesterol 6g

Perfume q.s

Procedures:

1) Dissolve the aluminum sulfate in the water and filter the solution.
2) Melt the white petrolatum, white wax and cholesterol at about 80*C in a bath of
boiling water.
3) Stir constantly the melted mixture in the agitator while concealing.
4) When the temperature reach about 50*C incorporate the aqueous solution with
agitation.
5) Add perfume as desired.

Questions:

1) Deodorants can be applied in the form of what?

Deodorants are applied either in the form of creams, lotions, or even
powders.

2) What are antiperspirants?

Antiperspirants are products that are equipped with an inhibitory action
on sweat secretion. They are commonly used to block sweat pore and reduces
perspiration to the skin and also reduces body odor.

3) What astringent are commonly use as deodorant and antiperspirants?

The most commonly used on antipersperants and deodorants in the
market nowadays are aluminium chlorohydrate and aluminium zirkonium
tetrachlorohydrate glycine complex. Alternatives do exist such as aluminum
chloride, as well as propantheline bromide which is an anticholinergic drug,
they are used but are less common.

DEODORANT LOTION

Materials Quantities

Aluminum sulfate 12.5 g

Aluminum chloride 20 g

Borax 1.25 g

Lavender oil or rose oil q.s

 Benzoic acid q.s

Purified water 216.25 ml

Procedures:

1. Dissolve the aluminum chloride in 212.5 ml of water.

2. Then add the aluminum sulfate and borax gradually while shaking.
3. Add the preservative, previously dissolved in 3.75 ml water and finally add the
perfume.

Questions:

1. What are the uses of each of the ingredient in the above formulation?
• Aluminum sulphate – astringent
• Aluminum chloride – antiperspirant
• Borax – buffering agent to the antiperspirant
• Lavender/Rose oil – essential oil; fragrance
• Benzoic acid – stabilizer; emollient
• Purified water - solvent

2) What are deodorants?

Deodorants work by killing the bacteria on your skin, and they also
work as an anti- perspirant by reducing the amount of sweat. The modern anti-
perspirant was invented in the 1940s – they contain an active ingredient
(almost always an aluminium compound) to reduce the amount you sweat.

3) How does astringent exert deodorant and antiperspirant effect?

Antiperspirants are astringents aimed to reduce the amount of both eccrine and
apocrine sweat secretions. They are considered to have a coagulating effect on
skin protein and thereby block the openings of the sweat ducts on the skin
surface.

Deodorant foot powder

 Materials Quantities

Salicylic Acid 0.25 oz

Boric acid 1 oz

Chlorthymol 10 gr

Benzoic acid 0.5 gr

Talc 0.5 lb

Procedures:

1. Pulverize all ingredients into fine powders in a mortar and pestle.

2. Mix intimately and pass through the sieve.

Questions:

1) What is the purpose of the sifting powders?

Removing contaminants to providing non-gritty cosmetic powders.

2) What are the uses of each ingredient in the formulation?

• Salicylic acid – antibacterial and antifungal agent
• Boric acid – stabilizer, helpful in treating foul foot odor
• Chlorthymol – active ingredient; anti-fungal agent
• Benzoic acid – antimicrobial preservative
• Talc – base powder

3) What is the best container for loose powders?

If packaging a loose powder you should look for something that will
aid in dispensing the product properly such as a sifter container or wide mouth
jar.
 Lipstick

Materials Quantities

Paraffin wax 120 g

White Beeswax/white wax 75 g

Cocoa butter 30 g

Liquid petroleum 120 g

Vanillin 150 g

Colorant q.s q.s

Procedures:

1) Melt the wax together in the suppository molding and filling pot.
2) Add the cocoa butter and petroleum and stir to a uniform mass.
3) Remove the heat (switch to no. 0) and add while stirring the vanillin.
4) Color to desired tint with alkanet and fill into molds.

Questions:

1) What are the principle requirements of a good lipstick?

 It should efficiently cover lips with colour and impart a gloss which
would last long.
 It should be able to maintain the intensity of colour without any
alteration in the degree of its shade.
 It should be able to adhere firmly to the lips and should not provide
any greasy appearance.
 It should possess good thixotropic property so as to deposit the colour
with minimum pressure.
 It should show a smear proof coloring effect.
 It should possess required plasticity and be able to maintain all the
properties throughout the storage period.
 It should not be gritty.
 It should be easily dried.
  The stick should possess even firmness and should maintain its
strength at varying temperatures up to 55°C.
 The stick should not dry or crumble easily.
 The lipstick should possess a pleasant fragrance and a good flavour
 Should be safe and non-irritating to the lips.
 Result in blooming or sweating of the lips.

2) What ingredient is particularly valuable in making the so-called indelible lipsticks?

Castor oil with its high viscosity, even when warm, helped to keep the
pigments in suspension and its oily nature gave the lipstick gloss and
emolliency.

3) Give synonyms of the following substances commonly used as bases in the

formulation of lipsticks:
A. Cocoa butter: Theobroma oil
B. Liquid petroleum: Petroleum jelly
C. Paraffin wax: Petroleum wax
D. White Beeswax: Candle wax

Compressed Face Powder

Materials Quantities

Zinc oxide 100 parts

Kaolin 300 parts

Talc 400 parts

Magnesium carbonate 200 parts

Perfume q.s

Procedures:

1) Mix the powders in a ball mill.

2) Pass through the sieve in the vibration table.
3) Compressed.
Questions:

1) What is the use of zinc oxide, kaoliln , talc and magnesium carbonate in the
preparation of compact powder?
Covering Power. Covering power is the quality that enables a powder
to conceal blemishes, skin imperfections and shine. Ingredients such as
titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, kaolin and magnesium oxide are used for their
covering power.

2) What are the qualities of face powder?

According to cosmetic chemists, the ideal powders should have five
characteristics: covering power, absorbency, adhesiveness, slip and bloom.
 Covering power is the quality that enables a powder to conceal
blemishes, skin imperfections and shine.
 Absorbency describes how well a powder holds perspiration
and skin oil.
 Adhesiveness is the ability of the powder to stay on the skin.
 Slip, or the quality of smooth spreading, results from the use of
talc.
 Bloom is the attractive, velvety finish that powder imparts
because of ingredients such as starch.

3) What substances can give the powder a waterproof property and an attractive
velvety softness?
 Zinc stearate
 Magnesium carbonate

4) What is talc commonly used for compact powder?

Talc may be used in products to absorb moisture, prevent caking,
improve consistency, or to make a product opaque.

5) What are the three distinct processes of producing compact powders?

a. Powder mixing and homogenizer
b. Shaking sieve powder machine
c. Compact powder pressing machine

6) Why is potato starch not used in the formulation of powders?

 This ingredient is extracted from potato and acts as a thickener and
gentle emulsifier. Benefits: this emulsifier adds natural texture to the products.
Its emollient properties add extra hydration and rapid absorption to the skin.