Machine Embroidery: The Essential Guide To
Machine Embroidery: The Essential Guide To
Machine Embroidery: The Essential Guide To
MACHINE
EMBROIDERY
Contents
Supplies
Chapter 1 - Choosing the Right Fabric for Your
Embroidery - (Pages 3-6)
Technical
Chapter 5 - Understanding Thread Tension
- (Pages 17-18)
1
Guidelines to fabrics that are the easiest or best to embroider for great results
When you start out in machine embroidery there are so many different supplies you need to be looking at, it can easily
get overwhelming. In this chapter we shed light on the different types of fabrics you can use. We also give you some
guidelines to which fabrics are the easiest or best to embroider to ensure great results right from the start.
Silk Wool
A popular choice of fabric by many embroiderers for its It is a great choice to use either in woven or felted format.
beautiful sheen. You might think it is a delicate fabric, but Felted wool does not fray, so you can just cut the edges. It
silk actually provides a good, crisp and strong base. offers depth without swallowing the thread.
It will even give you a recommended stabilizer to use and if suggested a topping.
2
Embroidery
Projects
The right thread will ensure your embroidery design is the best it can be!
The types of threads you will use for machine embroidery for are a little different to those used for hand embroidery.
Machine embroidery threads come in many different materials, ranging from rayon (the most popular) to silk and to
polyester. There are also less conventional threads like mylar, metallic and “special-effect” threads. Read on to learn
about which threads will suit your embroidery best!
Cotton
Cotton threads are a little less popular than polyester or
rayon, as the threads are very soft and tend to be a little
bit more fragile. However, this does not mean cotton is
less useful than rayon or polyester! The delicacy of cotton
threads makes it fantastic for finer material as the threads
Polyester come in finer weights, leaving less distress on your
Polyester threads are also a popular choice as they delicate fabrics. Cotton threads also have a flatter, matte
function and look similar to rayon. They do not have as finish, so if your preferences lean away from the glossy
high a shine as rayon however they do have a similar sheen provided by rayon, silk and polyester, cotton may
durability as they are not prone to fraying, shrinking or be for you.
stretching. One specific feature that makes polyester an
attractive option is the fact that the color does not fade
even when it comes in contact with bleach, making it a
great option for material that requires frequent washing.
image: punchwithjudy.com.au
Bobbin Thread
Designed specifically for use with machine embroidery,
bobbin thread is a lightweight thread that has the
durability of rayon and polyester. It can easily withstand
the rapid movements of your machine. Again, bobbin
threads are very versatile and come in a variety of
different sizes. It is often recommended to pair your
bobbin threads with another complimentary thread
of the same weight.
Conclusion
With all the different threads out there today, you will no doubt be able to find one that suits your needs!
Remember that finding the right thread is just as important as finding the right needle and can make or break
your final embroidery project, so it is key to always choose the best materials and tools for your specific purpose.
However, as usual, embroidery is not always about getting things perfect in one go! Be prepared for some fairly
extensive trial and error but learning to embrace the experimental part of embroidery is one of the best parts!
Every hobbyist who appreciates the fine beauty of embroidery will appreciate how Hatch Embroidery software
has revolutionized enjoyment of this long-time, honored craft. With a user-friendly and intuitive interface and
top technology, it leads the way for creating memorable and professional looking embroidery creations.
Do you have
several brands of
thread that you use?
No problem! You can combine Want to change the
thread charts to create your own. color in the design?
It’s so easy with Hatch
Embroidery. Just a click and
you have your new color applied!
3
Embroidery
Projects
All the basics you need to know about machine embroidery needles
Needles are an absolutely pivotal aspect of machine embroidery. Choosing the right needle out of a seemingly
endless amount of choice and confusing information on the internet gets overwhelming very quickly! We put
together a quick guide to give you a clear picture of the most important things you need to consider when shopping
for embroidery needles for your projects.
Before buying your machine embroidery needles you need to look at the specifications of your embroidery machine
and consider the type of fabric, stabilizer and thread you are going to be working with. These are the main factors
that determine the size and the point of the embroidery needle for your project. By using the right needle you will
eliminate thread breaks and your embroidery design will run smoother and look cleaner and crisper.
A Few Examples:
The general rule is to use a larger needle for heavier fabric
such as canvas and a smaller for lighter fabric such as
batiste. Small letters would require smaller needle with a
sharp point. Embroidering on dense fabric such as leather
or suede would require a sharp point titanium needle.
Best Advice
As there are hundreds of variations to embroidery projects depending on the factors you need to take into consideration
(fabric, stabilizer, thread and stitch density as discussed above), there are no exact rules as to which needle is the best
for your specific project. The best advice is to keep a variety of needles on hand to experiment and always do a test run
before embroidering.
4
The perfect guide to choosing the right stabilizer for your embroidery projects
Choosing stabilizers can be tricky. Make the wrong choice and your final stitch-out could end up completely different
to what you planned! That is why we put together an overview on the different types of stabilizers and which one to
choose for your embroidery projects.
What is a Stabilizer?
Stabilizers are often stiff sheets placed over
(topping) or, more frequently, underneath
(backing) your designs. In this article we
cover the three main types of backing type
stabilizers (cut-away, tear-away and wash-
away) as well as two additional stabilizers
that are a little less universal (heat-away
and spray-on).
Stabilizers help minimize a variety of issues
including, but not limited to; puckering,
stretching, uneven lines, crooked or
mismatched stitching and sinking. This
happens because many materials, cloth
materials especially, can easily shift and
bunch up as they lack the stiffness of other
materials, like leather. This leaves a wider Backing vs Topping Stabilizers
margin for error, especially if your fabrics
are lighter. Placing a stabilizer underneath Backing and topping both fall under the category of stabilizers
your fabric cuts down this movement and for machine embroidery and are just what their names suggest.
gives you a more steady canvas to work on. Topping is typically placed over your design with the main purpose
of preventing stitching from “sinking” into your fabric. Generally
topping is only used with fabrics that are more “stitch absorbent” or
textured, and they typically come in wash-away and tear-away types.
Backing, on the other hand, is recommended for every fabric, with
very few exceptions. Backing helps your fabric maintain its physical
and structural integrity while being embroidered, and also allows
your designs to keep their shape after being laundered. The focus
of this blog post will be on backing stabilizers.
image: weallsew.com
5
Don’t let your threads play tug-of-war, take time to understand how it works!
As an embroiderer you want to achieve beautiful end results, no matter if you are doing it as a hobby, semi-professionally
or professionally. There are many factors that can have an influence on how your embroidery looks like when it comes
off the machine. We have talked extensively about choosing the right fabrics, threads, needles and stabilizers previously.
In this chapter we explain how thread tension can effect the final result of your machine embroidery. We also show you
how you can check if your machine is set to the right tension by looking at your embroidery and how to adjust your top
thread to ensure great final results.
So to recap, the quality of your embroidery is influenced by the balance of the tension of the bobbin thread and the top
embroidery thread. It is typically the top thread that gets adjusted to achieve the optimum balance and ensure that the
‘tug-of-war’ between the two threads is even.
Understanding thread tension is important because it also effects the pull of the thread on the fabric, which can cause
distortions. In the next chapter, we will discuss this issue and how to use pull compensation to avoid that.
6
How to compensate for the push & pull effects of machine embroidery
As an embroiderer you always aim for the best possible end result. There are many factors that can have an influence
on how your embroidery ends up when it comes off your machine. We have talked about choosing the right needles,
fabrics and threads and about thread tension previously here on our blog.
In this chapter you will learn about the pull and push effects in machine embroidery and how to use pull
compensation to achieve great results every time. As one of my very experienced colleagues always says: “Machine
embroidery is not WYSIWYG.” meaning that what you see on your screen is NOT what you get off your embroidery
machine. Why is that? As we showed in last week’s thread tension article, in order to create embroidery stitches your
machine needs to form many-many tiny little knots where the needle penetrates the fabric and the bobbin thread
and the top thread links together.
7
Keeping you in the ‘Hoop’ with all the essentials for great embroidery results
When you are new to machine embroidery, the amount different things you need to learn can get a little daunting.
That’s why we’ve put together this quick run down on hooping, so you get a good understanding of why it is so important.
Hoop Burn
A pet peeve of many embroiderers is the dreaded “hoop
burn”, where the hoop leaves an imprint on the material.
This occurs when the hoop presses too hard into the
layers of material and stabilizer underneath it, and its
grip smashes the fabric’s fibers down. In most cases, it is
easily fixed. Simply re-fluff your fabric by adding a bit of
moisture. Hooping Technique
One method is to cover up hoops with an elastic wrap Remember to ensure that the hoop is fairly snug, it
to relieve pressure. Hoop wrapping is quite a popular should not be loose. However, make sure you do not
preventative approach, with people using muslin cloths or stretch the fabric, as this will distort your design. If
linen among other fabrics. possible, do a test sew with a similar, or the same, fabric
Another method you can use to avoid hoop burn on if possible. This way there are no nasty surprises, and
sensitive fabrics, such as velvet, is floating. you will not need to re-do your project.
Conclusion
Hooping is something that embroiderers, especially machine embroiderers, should become very familiar with.
Hooping is vital when it comes to producing a final product that meets (or perhaps even exceeds) your expectations,
as it prevents all kinds of mishaps. With proper hooping, or hooping substitutes, you will avoid puckering and
misalignment, and your designs will turn out exactly the way you were hoping.
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Get up to speed with Hatch Embroidery by learning all the basics of creating, editing
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