Machine Embroidery: The Essential Guide To

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The Essential Guide to

MACHINE
EMBROIDERY
Contents
Supplies
Chapter 1 - Choosing the Right Fabric for Your
Embroidery - (Pages 3-6)

Chapter 2 - Choosing the Right Threads for Your


Machine Embroidery Projects - (Pages 7-10)

Chapter 3 - Choosing the Right Needles for Your


Machine Embroidery Projects - (Pages 11-13)

Chapter 4 - Taking the Headache out of


Embroidery Stabilizers - (Pages 14-16)

Technical
Chapter 5 - Understanding Thread Tension
- (Pages 17-18)

Chapter 6 - What You Need to Know


About Pull Compensation - (Pages 19-20)

Chapter 7 - Machine Embroidery Hooping


- (Pages 21-22)
Choosing the
Right Fabric
for Your
Embroidery

1
Guidelines to fabrics that are the easiest or best to embroider for great results
When you start out in machine embroidery there are so many different supplies you need to be looking at, it can easily
get overwhelming. In this chapter we shed light on the different types of fabrics you can use. We also give you some
guidelines to which fabrics are the easiest or best to embroider to ensure great results right from the start.

First Things First


We cannot repeat and emphasize often
enough that the final result of your
embroidery project depends on a number of
factors. You need to ensure that you select
the right needle, fabric, stabilizer to suit the
size and stitch density of your embroidery
design. We dedicated complete chapters
to needles and stabilizers, so in this one we
will focus on the other factors. For a great
outcome you also have to make sure that
your embroidery machine is well-tuned, set at
the appropriate needle and bobbin tensions
and you need to use the right settings in your
embroidery software. image: GaGa Fabric & Accessory / Aliexpress

Choosing the Right Fabric Go Natural


for Your Embroidery Design Natural fabrics with a tight weave create a strong base for embroidery
When choosing your fabric, you need to and are the easiest to embroider. Because the fibers run horizontally
consider the weight of your embroidery and vertically, the needle can easily penetrate the material. Fabrics
design. The fabric needs to be strong enough such as cotton, linen, silk and wool support decorative stitching well.
to hold the design. Looser fabrics are less
able to hold the threads. If you want to use Quilting or Quilter’s Cotton
a specific type of fabric, you need to select It is a light fabric that comes in a large variety of colors. It is best to
a design that is suitable for the weight of use simple and open designs when embroidering with quilter’s cotton.
that fabric. The ‘thread count’ of the fabric It is very versatile and great to use in projects like placemats, table
refers to the fabric’s weave and determines runners, wall hangings and of course quilts.
the ability of the fabric to permit a needle to
thread through it without difficulty.

Choosing the right fabric for your embroidery | 3


image: dontlooknow.typepad.com images: baltic-flax.com & bumblebeelinens.com

Hanky Linen Linen


Commonly used in Australia, this material is a beautiful A lovely natural fabric. It is lighter, more textured and
fine and lightweight linen/cotton blend with small slubs stronger than cotton. Linen is considered the strongest of
throughout. It is great for embroidery when using the natural fibers and wears extremely well.
correct stabilizer.

Silk Wool
A popular choice of fabric by many embroiderers for its It is a great choice to use either in woven or felted format.
beautiful sheen. You might think it is a delicate fabric, but Felted wool does not fray, so you can just cut the edges. It
silk actually provides a good, crisp and strong base. offers depth without swallowing the thread.

Terrycloth & Waffle Unusual/Difficult to Embroider


You can create beautiful personalized gifts by Materials
embroidering monograms on bath robes and towels. There are a number of different materials that people
The key with these textured fabrics is to use a water- experiment with and the results are often striking.
soluble topping on the top of the fabric and designs with Embroidering on burlap/hessian, toilet paper, straw
solid fills to avoid the stitches getting lost in the texture. placemats and hats, vinyl and even balsa wood, you can
create something truly unique.

Choosing the right fabric for your embroidery | 4


Working with Fabrics in When you click Auto Fabric a dialog box opens that allows you to set your fabric.

Hatch Embroidery Software


Hatch Embroidery software has a great
feature for working with fabrics called Auto
Fabric. You can set it up before you begin and
it will make adjustments to the density and
other settings that can be affected by the
different fabrics so that it stitches out better.

You can find it in the Customize Design Toolbox

It will even give you a recommended stabilizer to use and if suggested a topping.

Choosing the right fabric for your embroidery | 5


The software also allows you to manage your own fabrics.
You can create your own, or if you find that you want
different settings for your fabric, you can change that
under the Manage Auto Fabrics feature. You will find this
under Software Settings > Manage Auto Fabrics.

You may need to change stitch density in order to stitch


on a different fabric or with a different thread. Hatch
Embroidery software lets you change the density of most
stitch types across the whole or selected parts of a design.

Choosing the right fabric for your embroidery | 6


Choosing
the Right
Threads for
Your Machine

2
Embroidery
Projects

The right thread will ensure your embroidery design is the best it can be!
The types of threads you will use for machine embroidery for are a little different to those used for hand embroidery.
Machine embroidery threads come in many different materials, ranging from rayon (the most popular) to silk and to
polyester. There are also less conventional threads like mylar, metallic and “special-effect” threads. Read on to learn
about which threads will suit your embroidery best!

Weight and Strand Count


The weight or size of your thread plays an
important role in the final outcome as well
as its compatibility with the fabric you are
embroidering on. The rule of thumb is simple:
the higher the number, the finer the thread.
Different types of threads (explored further
later) will usually have different limitations on
how fine or heavy they can go. For example,
cotton threads are available up to 100,
whereas rayon typically does not go higher
than 40. Threads also generally consist of
multiple strands being twisted together. To
find out the strand-count you need to look
at the number next to the weight, which tells image: wonderfil.ca/splendor.com

you how many strands. For example, 80/2


would mean that the weight is 80 and the
thread consists of 2 strands. When choosing
Rayon
the size of your thread, it is best to consider Rayon threads are the most popular for any type of embroidery,
the fabric you are embroidering on. What hand and machine. Rayon has a high, reflective sheen and is readily
size threads were used? What kind of fabric available. Rayon is the preferred thread type as it performs very
is it? Is it stiff or flexible, and does it stretch? well; its durability and versatility (it is available in many sizes) make
Finer threads (60 and up) are best for lighter it perfect for the rapid push and pull of machine embroidery.
or more delicate materials. Thicker threads
are best suited to heavier duty pieces like
upholstery. Another important thing to note is
that different machines are suited to different
types of strands, so as a final step, make sure
your thread is compatible with your machine.

Choosing the right threads for your machine embroidery projects | 7


image: OliverTwistsFibres (Etsy)

Cotton
Cotton threads are a little less popular than polyester or
rayon, as the threads are very soft and tend to be a little
bit more fragile. However, this does not mean cotton is
less useful than rayon or polyester! The delicacy of cotton
threads makes it fantastic for finer material as the threads
Polyester come in finer weights, leaving less distress on your
Polyester threads are also a popular choice as they delicate fabrics. Cotton threads also have a flatter, matte
function and look similar to rayon. They do not have as finish, so if your preferences lean away from the glossy
high a shine as rayon however they do have a similar sheen provided by rayon, silk and polyester, cotton may
durability as they are not prone to fraying, shrinking or be for you.
stretching. One specific feature that makes polyester an
attractive option is the fact that the color does not fade
even when it comes in contact with bleach, making it a
great option for material that requires frequent washing.

image: punchwithjudy.com.au

Wool image: EverythingIndian (Etsy)

Wool and other heavy-duty threads are perfect for


heavier materials such as tapestries and furnishings. Wool
Silk
threads come in a variety of different sizes, with Persian Silk threads are the number one choice when
wool being the thickest and crewel wool being the finest. embroidering on delicate, luxury fabrics like silk and
Wool threads are especially suited to crewel embroidery satin. Unsurprisingly, silk can be less durable than rayon
projects. Typically, wool is not one of the more popular but it is by no means a flimsy thread type. Silk holds up
types of thread, but if you are working with quite a hefty surprisingly well (basically as well as polyester!) especially
material, you may need to turn to a wool thread. when used on corresponding silk fabrics. However, it
is quite costly and nowhere near as readily available as
some others, but you’ll get a sheen that is unrivalled by
any other thread!

Choosing the right threads for your machine embroidery projects | 8


image: Noxton.com

Metallic and Mylar Special Effects


Metallic and Mylar threads are less common thread types, These threads are often acrylic or woolen and are
often used more to create accents or embellishments. most known for their unique aesthetic. These are used
They require a specific type of needle. This is because primarily for costume purposes as opposed to utility, with
they do have a tendency to break, especially when used many special effect threads containing glow-in-the-dark
with a high speed embroidery machine, so extra attention technology or changing colors under different lights.
needs to be given to these threads. However, for those These types of thread are probably the hardest to come
who are looking for a little something extra, they add a by, and you would most likely need to place an order with
sparkle to your designs like no other thread, and are well speciality stores online.
worth the effort if you are looking for a little glamour!

Bobbin Thread
Designed specifically for use with machine embroidery,
bobbin thread is a lightweight thread that has the
durability of rayon and polyester. It can easily withstand
the rapid movements of your machine. Again, bobbin
threads are very versatile and come in a variety of
different sizes. It is often recommended to pair your
bobbin threads with another complimentary thread
of the same weight.

Conclusion
With all the different threads out there today, you will no doubt be able to find one that suits your needs!
Remember that finding the right thread is just as important as finding the right needle and can make or break
your final embroidery project, so it is key to always choose the best materials and tools for your specific purpose.
However, as usual, embroidery is not always about getting things perfect in one go! Be prepared for some fairly
extensive trial and error but learning to embrace the experimental part of embroidery is one of the best parts!

Every hobbyist who appreciates the fine beauty of embroidery will appreciate how Hatch Embroidery software
has revolutionized enjoyment of this long-time, honored craft. With a user-friendly and intuitive interface and
top technology, it leads the way for creating memorable and professional looking embroidery creations.

Choosing the right threads for your machine embroidery projects | 9


Here are a few advantages you get with Hatch
Embroidery software when it comes to threads:
Hatch Embroidery lets you sort your threads by color, code, color name, or brand!

Can you use any of


your threads with
Hatch Embroidery?
Hatch includes over 85 thread
brands. If you do not find your Have a certain set of
own thread brand, you can colors that you want to
create your own thread charts. use over and over for
special projects?
Hatch Embroidery has you covered!
You can select these threads to
make your own color set.

Do you have
several brands of
thread that you use?
No problem! You can combine Want to change the
thread charts to create your own. color in the design?
It’s so easy with Hatch
Embroidery. Just a click and
you have your new color applied!

You have purchased


a design and it came
with the wrong
thread brand? Do you have a
No worries! You can simply thicker thread that
select your thread brand you want to use?
and click “Match all”.
Hatch Embroidery allows you to
select the object or whole design
and adjust the density (spacing)
to allow for the thicker thread.
Choosing
the Right
Needles for
Your Machine

3
Embroidery
Projects

All the basics you need to know about machine embroidery needles
Needles are an absolutely pivotal aspect of machine embroidery. Choosing the right needle out of a seemingly
endless amount of choice and confusing information on the internet gets overwhelming very quickly! We put
together a quick guide to give you a clear picture of the most important things you need to consider when shopping
for embroidery needles for your projects.
Before buying your machine embroidery needles you need to look at the specifications of your embroidery machine
and consider the type of fabric, stabilizer and thread you are going to be working with. These are the main factors
that determine the size and the point of the embroidery needle for your project. By using the right needle you will
eliminate thread breaks and your embroidery design will run smoother and look cleaner and crisper.

The Anatomy of Machine


Embroidery Needles
Machine embroidery needles have a flat side
and a round side so that they fit properly
into the machine. The various parts of
the needle are called shank, shaft, eye,
groove and point. It is useful to take into
consideration the different parts of a needle,
and how each part works, when deciding
which needle to use for a specific project.

What to Look out for When Researching


for Information on the Internet?
There is a lot of information available on the internet on needles.
What we noticed the most when browsing around, how difficult it
was to clearly differentiate which part of the article was talking about
needles in general, machine embroidery needles or sewing machine
needles.So it is essential that when you are making decisions about
what size needle to buy, you always check that the advice given is
purely for machine embroidery needles.

Choosing the right needles for your machine embroidery projects | 11


So What is the Difference Between Size
Machine Embroidery Needles and Embroidery needles vary in size between 7-11 (US) or 70-
Sewing Needles? 110 mm. The lower the number, the finer the needle. The
size of the needle you will need to go for depends on the
There are needles made specifically for machine kind of fabric, stabilizer and thread you are using for your
embroidery, we will refer to those as embroidery needles project and the stitch density of your embroidery design.
or needles throughout this chapter, and there are sewing
machine needles that can also be used for machine Type
embroidery if needed. More on this later.
If your project requires heavy duty needles, your best bet
Although both can be used for machine embroidery, the
is titanium. If you are using dense or tough materials or
main difference between embroidery and sewing machine
embroidering large designs, these needles can penetrate
needles is the shape of the eye and scarf. Machine
through the fabric without the point and surface quickly
embroidery needles have a longer eye and a specially-
losing their original shape and dimensions. They on
shaped scarf to suit the more delicate embroidery
average last 3 to 5 times longer than regular chromium
threads and not to break or fray them.
plated needles.

Choosing the Right Needle Type for


Your Machine
The very first thing you need to do before you start
shopping for embroidery needles is to look at the user
manual of your embroidery machine and find out what
type of needle it will fit. The shape of the shank of the
required needle can vary depending on the brand of your
machine, so checking this first is very important.

More on Machine Embroidery Needles


Point
The most commonly used embroidery needles have a
universal point, which means a slightly rounded tip that
sits between the sharp and ballpoint type points. The
universal point suits most kinds of fabrics and stabilizers
in general. One of the exceptions to this is, if you are
using a very fine stabilizer such as the water soluble
stabilizer that looks like a plastic film, you need to use a
sharp point needle, so it can penetrate easily through the
stabilizer, without ripping it.
Choosing the Right Needle for your
Embroidery Project
Before embroidering you need to consider the
specifications of your embroidery machine for the needle,
the weight and the weave of the fabric, the type of the
stabilizer and thread you are going to be working with and
also the density of your embroidery design.

A Few Examples:
The general rule is to use a larger needle for heavier fabric
such as canvas and a smaller for lighter fabric such as
batiste. Small letters would require smaller needle with a
sharp point. Embroidering on dense fabric such as leather
or suede would require a sharp point titanium needle.

Choosing the right needles for your machine embroidery projects | 12


What If My Project Requires a Important Things to Take Into
Ballpoint or a Sharp Point, but I Consideration
Cannot find Such Embroidery Needle? When you change:
As I mentioned before, you can use sewing machine • The needle size or the eye size of the needle, you are
needles for machine embroidery too. But because the changing the tension on the top thread.
eye on sewing needles are shorter, what we usually
• The needle size, you are changing the relationship of
recommend is going up a size. So if your embroidery
the needle scarf to the hook point.
project requires a size 70 embroidery machine needle,
you can use a size 80 sewing machine needle instead. • The needle point, you are changing the way the
It is all about ensuring that the thread fits “comfortably” needle penetrates the fabric.
through the eye.

Best Advice
As there are hundreds of variations to embroidery projects depending on the factors you need to take into consideration
(fabric, stabilizer, thread and stitch density as discussed above), there are no exact rules as to which needle is the best
for your specific project. The best advice is to keep a variety of needles on hand to experiment and always do a test run
before embroidering.

Choosing the right needles for your machine embroidery projects | 13


Taking the
Headache out
of Embroidery
Stabilizers

4
The perfect guide to choosing the right stabilizer for your embroidery projects
Choosing stabilizers can be tricky. Make the wrong choice and your final stitch-out could end up completely different
to what you planned! That is why we put together an overview on the different types of stabilizers and which one to
choose for your embroidery projects.

What is a Stabilizer?
Stabilizers are often stiff sheets placed over
(topping) or, more frequently, underneath
(backing) your designs. In this article we
cover the three main types of backing type
stabilizers (cut-away, tear-away and wash-
away) as well as two additional stabilizers
that are a little less universal (heat-away
and spray-on).
Stabilizers help minimize a variety of issues
including, but not limited to; puckering,
stretching, uneven lines, crooked or
mismatched stitching and sinking. This
happens because many materials, cloth
materials especially, can easily shift and
bunch up as they lack the stiffness of other
materials, like leather. This leaves a wider Backing vs Topping Stabilizers
margin for error, especially if your fabrics
are lighter. Placing a stabilizer underneath Backing and topping both fall under the category of stabilizers
your fabric cuts down this movement and for machine embroidery and are just what their names suggest.
gives you a more steady canvas to work on. Topping is typically placed over your design with the main purpose
of preventing stitching from “sinking” into your fabric. Generally
topping is only used with fabrics that are more “stitch absorbent” or
textured, and they typically come in wash-away and tear-away types.
Backing, on the other hand, is recommended for every fabric, with
very few exceptions. Backing helps your fabric maintain its physical
and structural integrity while being embroidered, and also allows
your designs to keep their shape after being laundered. The focus
of this blog post will be on backing stabilizers.

Taking the headache out of embroidery stabilizers | 14


Determining Which Stabilizer to Use Cut-Away Stabilizers
Before starting you will need to consider the type of fabric Cut-away stabilizers do not get totally removed upon
you plan to embroider, specifically fabric stability, fabric completion, instead the excess is trimmed and the
density and stitch density. These three factors are the stabilizer stays attached to the fabric. They are quite
most important when selecting the right stabilizer. With versatile and are great especially for delicates, with the
denser stitch counts, the stabilizer needs to be sturdier. exception of silk. They are an absolute must with stretchy
The less stable the fabric, the more stability you will need. or knit type materials. Many people prefer cut-away
The heavier the fabric, the heavier the stabilizer ought to stabilizers for garments, because there are no jagged
be. Some fabrics may require two stabilizers, some may edges that can irritate the skin. For sheer or loose-
require none. Standard fabrics will usually just require one knit materials use a polyester or nylon mesh cut-away
type of stabilizer. Your embroidery fabric is always your stabilizer. These are made specifically to be invisible
starting point so make sure you do your research on what through sheer fabrics.
stabilizers are compatible with your fabric.

image: weallsew.com

Tear-Away Stabilizers Wash-Away Stabilizers


Tear-away stabilizers are a great, cost-effective option Water soluble stabilizers are less universally used than
and are the quickest and easiest to remove. They are cut-away or tear-away stabilizers. They are known for
simply adhered to the back of your embroidery design their flexibility, transparency and water solubility, so they
during embroidery with stitches, and then torn right off. are best for cases where your project requires no traces
These are best used with a sturdier fabric as the act of of the stabilizer to be left after embroidery. They are often
tearing may be a little bit harsh for more delicate fabrics. considered the perfect ‘invisible’ stabilizer, and are mostly
They do not provide as much support as cut-away used with either more delicate, sheer materials, pieces
stabilizer, and you would not hoop them as they are quite that require constant wash-and-wear and stand-alone
rigid. Instead you can slide them under your hooped fabric lace designs.
after you attached the hoop to your machine. Tear-away
stabilizers are categorized by weight, as most stabilizers
are, so when you are working with heavier fabrics, a heavy
weight tear-away stabilizer is required.

Taking the headache out of embroidery stabilizers | 15


image: romanticrecollections.com image: it.matri.eu/borduurring

Heat-Away Stabilizers Spray-On Stabilizers


One of the go-to stabilizers for fussier fabrics, heat-away A modern type of ‘invisible’ stabilizer, spray-on stabilizers
stabilizers is perfect for pieces that are too delicate for are used to stiffen fabric temporarily without the use
tear-aways, too sheer for cut-away and non-washable of any additional material. Spray-on stabilizers are
lace. There are two types (woven and filmy backed). The perhaps one of the most convenient types, however, it
woven stabilizers will flake off with heat and the filmy is important to note that they are best suited for lighter,
stabilizers will dissolve completely. Like wash-away non-stretch fabrics that have less need for serious
stabilizers, heat-away stabilizers are less universally stabilization. Many embroiderers also avoid spray-on
applicable than the standard cut or tear-away stabilizer as stabilizers when it comes to expensive materials, like raw
they do not provide as much support. silk, but this is simply an extra pre-caution.

Practice Makes Perfect!


The one thing you need to do over and over again is practice. It is not unusual to use the wrong type of stabilizer
at first (if you didn’t – congratulations are in order!). I suggest keeping a notebook and pasting good and bad samples
and making notes as you complete your projects as to what worked and what did not. It will take some getting used
to, and remember, repetition is the key to getting it right in the end!

Taking the headache out of embroidery stabilizers | 16


Understanding
Thread Tension

5
Don’t let your threads play tug-of-war, take time to understand how it works!
As an embroiderer you want to achieve beautiful end results, no matter if you are doing it as a hobby, semi-professionally
or professionally. There are many factors that can have an influence on how your embroidery looks like when it comes
off the machine. We have talked extensively about choosing the right fabrics, threads, needles and stabilizers previously.
In this chapter we explain how thread tension can effect the final result of your machine embroidery. We also show you
how you can check if your machine is set to the right tension by looking at your embroidery and how to adjust your top
thread to ensure great final results.

Top Thread vs. Bobbin Thread


To understand thread tension, first you need
to understand how the the two threads,
your bobbin thread and your top embroidery
thread work together. Watch this great video
below that demonstrates really well how a
sewing machine works. It is exactly the same
with your embroidery machine.
This infographic (on the right) also shows you
the relationship between the bobbin thread
and the top thread. Imagine it as if the two
threads were playing tug-of-war. It is not a
bad thing though. In order to form a lock,
both of the two threads need to be slightly
tense, but there has to be an optimum
balance between the two.

How Can I Tell if My Thread


Tension Is Right?
Once you have done your test stitch-out, you
need to have a look at the back of your fabric
and check how much of the top thread was
pulled through it. The result will indicate if
the tension of the top thread is too loose,
too tight or just right.

Understanding thread tension | 17


How to Adjust Thread Tension on My Machine?
When you checked the back of the fabric on your test stitch-out and you noticed that your top tension is either too
loose or too tight, you need adjust the top thread tension using the dial(s) on your machine. Although it is possible
to change the tension of the bobbin thread, it is typically the tension of the top thread that gets adjusted and this
infographic shows you how.

So to recap, the quality of your embroidery is influenced by the balance of the tension of the bobbin thread and the top
embroidery thread. It is typically the top thread that gets adjusted to achieve the optimum balance and ensure that the
‘tug-of-war’ between the two threads is even.
Understanding thread tension is important because it also effects the pull of the thread on the fabric, which can cause
distortions. In the next chapter, we will discuss this issue and how to use pull compensation to avoid that.

Understanding thread tension | 18


What You
Need to Know
About Pull
Compensation

6
How to compensate for the push & pull effects of machine embroidery
As an embroiderer you always aim for the best possible end result. There are many factors that can have an influence
on how your embroidery ends up when it comes off your machine. We have talked about choosing the right needles,
fabrics and threads and about thread tension previously here on our blog.
In this chapter you will learn about the pull and push effects in machine embroidery and how to use pull
compensation to achieve great results every time. As one of my very experienced colleagues always says: “Machine
embroidery is not WYSIWYG.” meaning that what you see on your screen is NOT what you get off your embroidery
machine. Why is that? As we showed in last week’s thread tension article, in order to create embroidery stitches your
machine needs to form many-many tiny little knots where the needle penetrates the fabric and the bobbin thread
and the top thread links together.

Push and Pull Effects


Because we embroider on various fabrics,
which all have a natural stretch, there
will always be some pull on your fabric as
the hoop moves back and forth and the
stitches are formed. This causes distortion
and unevenness. The amount of pulling
depends on a number of factors, such as
the fabric you are using and how well you
hoop it, the type of stabilizer you applied,
the size of your design, the type of fill stitch
and underlay stitching you are using. All of
these together effect the outcome of your
embroidery. During embroidery application,
stitches pull the fabric in with the direction
of the stitches. This can result in gaps in your
stitch out. Also, in the case of an area of fill,
the stitching pushes out at a right angle to
the line of stitching, so the embroidery will
image: digitizingfactory.com
end up further out then what it looks like
on your screen. To compensate for the push
and pull effects of machine embroidery
you need to develop a certain level of
digitizing experience.

What you need to know about pull compensation | 19


What is Pull Compensation? How to Adjust Pull Compensation
During the digitizing process you need take into Your test stitch out will reveal any areas which would
consideration the natural pull effect and compensate for benefit from fine tuning the pull compensation. When
it, which means you need to add to the stitch length the you do a test stitch out and you notice that there is too
same length of the expected pull. much pulling on the fabric, you will need to adjust your
software settings to compensate for the pulling. It is easy
Experienced digitizers can manually compensate for
to see if objects that should be touching or outlines have
pull by overlapping objects as they digitize. Automatic
gaps between them.
pull compensation, however, counters the pull effect by
‘overstitching’ outlines of filled shapes on the sides Check your software manual for adjusting pull
where the needle penetrates. compensation. Hatch Embroidery allows you to select the
type of fabric you want to embroider on and it will set the
recommended pull compensation for that specific fabric
automatically. You are also able to manually override this
by putting a value in. This means you can have different
pull compensation for different objects in the design.
This is very useful if you have different fill stitches in
different areas.
See the below screenshots to see how to adjust pull
compensation in your Hatch Embroidery software.

What you need to know about pull compensation | 20


Machine
Embroidery
Hooping

7
Keeping you in the ‘Hoop’ with all the essentials for great embroidery results
When you are new to machine embroidery, the amount different things you need to learn can get a little daunting.
That’s why we’ve put together this quick run down on hooping, so you get a good understanding of why it is so important.

Hooping is a Vital Part of


Machine Embroidery
You might have a fantastic design that
you purchased from someone or created
yourself, but if you do not get your
hooping right, the embroidery that comes
off your machine can still end up very
average or even bad.

What is the Purpose


of the Hoop?
The hoop holds an even tension on the
fabric and prevents it from puckering.
Stabilizers
This allows the stitches to have an even Using stabilizers for machine embroidery is necessary to add stability
tension and line up correctly without to the fabric and hold it in place while it gets stitched. Almost all
loose threads. Therefore, when you hoop fabric has a level of stretch, and stabilizers help avoid the push and
your fabric, it is very important that it is pull effect of machine embroidery.
nice and taut.
Hooping can be a little frustrating,
especially if you have perfectionist
tendencies. It can get quite fiddly as it
requires the handling of loose fabric and
multiple layers of stabilizer. If it is not
done properly, improperly hooped pieces
can lead to all kinds of frustrating issues
like puckering, misalignment and uneven
stitches.

Machine Embroidery Hooping | 21


Hoop Size Floating
Embroidery machines all have a set of hoop sizes, so There are certain materials that just will not work with
make sure you check your machine’s user manual for a traditional hoop (denim edges, slippery fabric and
these measurements. For example, if your hoop size is 6 delicates), there is another options that can provide a
x 10, any designs you work with will need to be smaller “hooping” effect without needing to use an actual hoop.
than that when purchasing or creating designs.
Floating is when you only hoop the stabilizer and place
Luckily, with Hatch Embroidery, you can select your your material on top. It is advised to use a fabric spray
machine type in the software, and the available hoop adhesive to secure the fabric, or a stick-on stabilizer as
sizes will show. You can then select the smallest hoop this will adhere directly to your fabric and lock it down
size that fits your design. to ensure little to no movement.
Remember, unhooped fabric becomes very vulnerable
Why the Smallest Hoop? to shifting and gapping, so only use this method if you
Using a large hoop for a small design will allow more really must.
room for the fabric to move within the hoop which leads
to the design not stitching out properly. Therefore, it
is best to choose the smallest possible hoop size to fit
your design. This will avoid the fabric being dragged in
the hoop and ensure your embroidery comes off the
machine looking great.

Hoop Burn
A pet peeve of many embroiderers is the dreaded “hoop
burn”, where the hoop leaves an imprint on the material.
This occurs when the hoop presses too hard into the
layers of material and stabilizer underneath it, and its
grip smashes the fabric’s fibers down. In most cases, it is
easily fixed. Simply re-fluff your fabric by adding a bit of
moisture. Hooping Technique
One method is to cover up hoops with an elastic wrap Remember to ensure that the hoop is fairly snug, it
to relieve pressure. Hoop wrapping is quite a popular should not be loose. However, make sure you do not
preventative approach, with people using muslin cloths or stretch the fabric, as this will distort your design. If
linen among other fabrics. possible, do a test sew with a similar, or the same, fabric
Another method you can use to avoid hoop burn on if possible. This way there are no nasty surprises, and
sensitive fabrics, such as velvet, is floating. you will not need to re-do your project.

Conclusion
Hooping is something that embroiderers, especially machine embroiderers, should become very familiar with.
Hooping is vital when it comes to producing a final product that meets (or perhaps even exceeds) your expectations,
as it prevents all kinds of mishaps. With proper hooping, or hooping substitutes, you will avoid puckering and
misalignment, and your designs will turn out exactly the way you were hoping.

Machine Embroidery Hooping | 22


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Choosing the right fabric for your embroidery | 23


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