Booze by Bernard - Blends - The Backbone of The Whisky Business
Booze by Bernard - Blends - The Backbone of The Whisky Business
Booze by Bernard - Blends - The Backbone of The Whisky Business
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Written by
Bernard Gutman
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Do you like surprises? I'm sure you enjoy the good ones, such as a
tax refund or an all clear from the dentist. The problem is the nasty
surprises, such as an expensive sounding noise from your car engine
or a psychotic stalker on Facebook. What has this got to do with
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23/04/2023, 11:07 Booze by Bernard: Blends - the backbone of the whisky business
Our daily dram should be an unsurprising source of comfort. Blended whisky makes
up over 90% of all the whisky drunk in the world.
The remaining 10% comprises of Single Malts, whisky from malted barley, produced in
one distillery (example: Glenfiddich); Single Grain, the same as single malt, except it's
made with grain, (example: Bain's Cape Mountain Whisky); Blended Malt, two or more
single malts bottled together, (example: Monkey Shoulder); and Blended Grain, two or
more grain whiskies bottled together, (example: Compass Box Hedonism).
Blended whisky is relatively new in whisky terms and started in the 1830s when
Aeneas Coffey invented the Patent Still, also called the Coffey Still. This allowed for
continuous distilling, as opposed to a Pot Still, which produces spirits batch by batch.
Most decent blended whiskies consist of 75% grain whisky and 25% malt whsky, so
the large volume of spirit produced by the Coffey still are vital for the whisky market.
In around 1860 Anrew Usher, the father of modern whisky, began blending different
whiskies. At more or less the same time, young John Walker did the same in his
greengrocer store. Scotland exported the blended whiskies to England, America and
then the rest of the world.
The Coffey Still produces spirits much faster and at a lower cost than malt whisky
made in a pot still. At first, producers used grain whisky to reduce the cost of the
whiskies they sold. The added benefit was that grain whisky is much lighter and
sweeter than malt whisky. Consumers in Scotland began enjoying blended whiskies as
they were more palatable than malts, and the flavours were more consistent.
As the popularity of blended whisky rose, more and more distilleries sold their stock
of SIngle Malts to whisky companies who bottled the spirits under their own label.
Famous blended whiskies include Johnnie Walker Black, Ballantine's and Bell's. While
those whiskies have tasted almost the same for decades, the recipes have changed.
For example, there are around 32 different whiskies that make up Johnnie Walker
Black. Each of those whiskies, (around 5 grains and 27 single malts) has spent at least
12 years maturing in an oak barrel. While Cardhu and Caol Ila Single Malts will always
feature in JWB, there will be Single Malts from many other distilleries in Scotland.
We mere mortals will never know exactly which Single Malts and what proportions
make up a blend. Those secrets are known only to the Master Blender and one or two
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23/04/2023, 11:07 Booze by Bernard: Blends - the backbone of the whisky business
of his trusted assistant noses. They have to sample whiskies from around 100 barrels
every day. No, they don't drink them, they smell them.
The blend may feature 1000 bottles of Talisker in one year, and 100 the next, with
more Lagavulin making up the smoky component. After the whiskies are taken out of
their barrels, they are then "married" for a few months in other barrels, before being
bottled.
It takes about 20 years of training to become an expert nose and many modern noses
have a background in chemistry. They spend their days in maturation warehouses and
laboratories, ensuring that the taste and aroma of the whiskies remain the same, year
after year.
Next time you have a blended whisky, raise your glass and toast the Master Blenders.
Maybe one day we'll join them on a walk round the warehouse, sampling from 100
casks!
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