Power Bouldering Training Plan 1: My Account (/My-Account/)

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Power Bouldering Training Plan 1

Uncategorized
(https://www.climbstrong.com/education-
center/category/uncategorized/) Bouldering
 (/training-plans/?
fwp_training_plan_subcategory=bouldering),
Power (/training-plans/?
fwp_training_plan_subcategory=power)
Campus
center/tag/campus/), Limit Bouldering
 center/tag/limit-bouldering/), Power
center/tag/power/), Strength
center/tag/strength/)
The Power Bouldering plans are built to help you maximize power production in boulderers and route climbers. This training plan incorporates
bouldering (indoors or out), campusing, and resistance training. This is a simple Level I plan, appropriate for climbers who have been training
very little in the past 12 months, want a very simple program, or are new to organized training altogether. The time commitment of this plan is
9-10 hours per week on average.
DAY
DAY 1 DAY 3 DAY 4 DAY 5 DAY 6 DAY 7
2
WEEK Volume Limit Volume

1 Bouldering Bouldering Bouldering Limit Bouldering
Rest Rest Rest
Session (90 Session (90 Session (90 (90 minutes)
minutes) minutes) minutes)
Strength Strength Strength
Resistance Resistance Resistance
Training (60 Training (60 Training (60
9h
Volume Limit Volume

Limit Bouldering
Bouldering Bouldering Bouldering
Rest Rest Rest Session (90
Session (120 Session (90 Session (90
minutes)
WEEK
2
Strength Strength
Campus Campus
Resistance Resistance
Training (20 Training (20
minutes) minutes)
minutes) minutes)
9.5h
Volume Limit Volume

Bouldering Bouldering Bouldering Limit Bouldering
Rest Rest Rest
Session (90 Session (90 Session (90 (90 minutes)
WEEK
3
Strength Strength Strength
Resistance Resistance Resistance
Training (60 Training (60 Training (60
9h
Volume Limit Volume

Limit Bouldering
Bouldering Bouldering Bouldering
Rest Rest Rest Session (90
Session (120 Session (90 Session (120
minutes)
WEEK
4
Strength Strength
Campus Campus
Resistance Resistance
minutes) minutes)
minutes) minutes)
10h
Day 1:
Volume Bouldering – 90 minutes
Warm-Up (15 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles. Do two each V0, V1, V2 up to your onsight grade(a maximum of 10 problems). If your
onsight grade is at the V1 or V2 level, simply do six problems below your level to warm-up.
Session (75 min): Volume bouldering is about building work capacity for longer climbing days and more high quality tries. You’ll limit the
difficulty of your climbing day to problems at your onsight level (climbs you can normally do first try) and the next two grades below. For
example, if your onsight level is V5, the session would consist of getting as many problems in the V3, V4, and V5 grade range as possible. In
this session you have 75 minutes to climb these problems. Don’t hurry, but don’t spend too much time chatting either. During this session you’ll
want to track your VSum (add up the total V points for all the problems you do), and the “density” of the session (divide the VSum by the
session time, in this case 75 minutes).
Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes
Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible. This reduces the needed warm-up time as you should be very warm after bouldering!
5 rounds:
5x Pull-Ups (https://youtu.be/ZZgo9HiMqfc)
5x Front Squat (https://youtu.be/v3q2WAa8dBc)
30-60 sec Frog Stretch (https://youtu.be/oLfrrZGLJ8Y)
5 rounds:
5x Bench Press (https://youtu.be/j4UoQ_0wECE)
5x Deadlift
30-60sec PVC Shoulder Stretch (https://youtu.be/TKBO0oFQfak)
Day 2:
Rest
Day 3:
Limit Bouldering – 90 minutes
Warm-Up (15-20 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles. Do two each V0, V1, V2 up to your onsight grade(a maximum of 10 problems). If your
Session (70-75 min): Limit bouldering is a critical component to upping your power on steeps. In this session, you will focus on doing hard
boulder problems that take several tries (usually 3-5) to complete. The limit bouldering sessions should last no more than 75 minutes after
warm-up, with “more rest than needed” between problems. Quality of effort is our big goal – not how many problems you can do.
Keep track of your “Average V” in this session, adding up your VSum and dividing by the number of problems you do. Over the course of this
training plan, you’ll want to increase this number each Limit session.
Day 4:
Warm-Up (15 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles (2 each of every grade up to OS).
Session (75 min): Steady paced, medium-intensity bouldering. Track VSum and Density of problems. Each of these numbers should go up
slightly compared to the last session (Day 1).
Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible.
5 rounds:
8x Inverted Row (https://youtu.be/BPYSeoIpfQI)
4+4x Walking Lunge (https://youtu.be/_oD9bjkAhDc)
30-60 sec Fire Log
5 rounds:
8x Overhead Press (https://youtu.be/QZUT8hs2lzE)
15x Kettlebell Swing (https://youtu.be/HIxoZwFWqjU)
30-60sec Doorway Shoulder Opener
Day 5:
Rest, or easy cardiovascular training. Opt for conversational intensity hiking or running, no more than 75 minutes.
Day 6:
Session (75 min): Limit bouldering. Look for an increase in Average V over Day 3.
5 rounds:
5 rounds:
5x Deadlift
Day 7:
Rest
Day 8:
Session (105 min): Volume bouldering. Track your VSum (add up the total V points for all the problems you do), and the “density” of the
session (divide the VSum by the session time, in this case 60 minutes). Compare these to the numbers from Day 1 and Day 4.
5 rounds:
5x Front Squat
5 rounds:
5x Deadlift
Day 9:
Rest
Day 10:
Session (70-75 min): Limit bouldering. Look for an increase in Average V over Day 6.
Campus Training – 20 minutes
Campusing is high-intensity, but is good practice for timing and for developing your contact strength. If you are very fatigued from the
bouldering, skip this part of the day’s session. Otherwise, do the following sets.
3 sets: Single-Rung Ladders 1-2-3-4-5-6-7 (3 hits each hand), rest as needed between
3 sets: 1-3-4 or 1-4-6, 2 times per side, rest as needed.
1 set: 1-5 or 1-6, one per side.
Day 11:
Rest
Day 12:
Session (75 min): Steady paced, medium-intensity bouldering. Track VSum and Density of problems. Even though your session duration goes
up (and the VSum with it), your Density should remain steady or increase.
5 rounds:
30-60 sec Fire Log
5 rounds:
Day 13:
Rest
Day 14:
3 sets: 1-5 or 1-6, one per side.
Day 15:
Warm-Up (15 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles. Do two each V0, V1, V2 up to your onsight grade (a maximum of 10 problems). If your
session (divide the VSum by the session time, in this case 105 minutes). Compare these to the numbers from Day 8 (VSum) and Day 12
(Density).
5 rounds:
5 rounds:
5x Deadlift
Day 16:
Rest
Day 17:

Day 18:
Session (75 min): Steady paced, medium-intensity bouldering. Track VSum and Density of problems. Compare to Day 15.
5 rounds:
30-60 sec Fire Log
5 rounds:
Day 19:
Rest
Day 20:
5 rounds:
5 rounds:
5x Deadlift
Day 21:
Rest
Day 22:
session (divide the VSum by the session time, in this case 105 minutes). Compare these to the numbers from Day 15 (VSum) and Day 18
(Density).
5 rounds:
5 rounds:
5x Deadlift
Day 23:
Rest
Day 24:
Day 25:
Rest
Day 26:
Session (105 min): Steady paced, medium-intensity bouldering. Track VSum and Density of problems. Compare to Day 22.
5 rounds:
30-60 sec Fire Log
5 rounds:
Day 27: Rest
Day 28:
At the end of this program, you’ll see significant gains in the resistance training numbers, and you’ll also note much progress in all three
aspects of the bouldering you tracked. If this program feels like it is still interesting and will produce results, feel free to run another 28 day
cycle of it. Otherwise, consider switching to a plan that focuses on a different aspect of your fitness, such as an endurance plan.
Posted in: Uncategorized (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/category/uncategorized/)
Tags: Campus (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tag/campus/), Limit Bouldering (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-

center/tag/limit-bouldering/), Power (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tag/power/), Strength
(https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tag/strength/)
14 Comments
willsends on February 15, 2018 at 12:00 am
Hi there,
Wondering if you could suggest a HB routine / the optimum days to HB with this strength + climbing plan?
Going to commit to this training plan, but would like to also incorporate some hangboarding in there if possible!
Will
Reply (https://www.climbstrong.com/training-plan/power-bouldering-1/?replytocom=5#respond)
Steve Bechtel on February 15, 2018 at 6:48 pm
Hi Will,
I would be reluctant to add any extra training to this plan. I think that the volume is quite high and the power gains might be
diminished if you try to do too much. It takes courage to focus, but for the length of this plan, I think most athletes can do that.
Unless you are working at a very novice level, the load of frequent bouldering plus weights will be plenty to help you see good
gains.
willsends on February 15, 2018 at 7:28 pm
Thanks a lot for the reply!
Will
Samuel Lashof-Regas on December 26, 2018 at 11:03 pm
Hi Steve,
I’m interested in whether your answer to “can I add HBing to this plan?” would be different for a more advanced trainee
who just want something super simple/ and adaptable. In my own experimentation I’ve found (and I think you’ve said this
in some article or pod) that trainees should be hangboarding at some level all year around, and from what I’ve found
adding some form of HB into RT sessions after power-focus sessions still produces decent gains in both power and
strength. I’m wondering what the detailed disagreement to this might be?
Thanks for the time and thought.
Sam
Steve Bechtel on January 6, 2019 at 12:29 am
Hi Sam,
It’s mostly a matter of focus in this case. In all honestly, it’s really a rare program that we don’t put HB training in.
As long as you have a good perspective on what you are getting out of the HB (i.e. maintenance in this case),
you’ll know what to do and how much.
sentor77 on July 3, 2018 at 6:06 am
Hey Steve,
I like the detail of this plan. I’d love to see more examples of plans that follow this format (calendar, followed by step-by-step instructions
for each day / session). Really helpful.
Just want to clarify though, is it really a level 1 plan designed for “climbers who have been training very little in the past 12 months, want a
very simple program, or are new to organized training altogether”? Seems like a 4 day per week workout, including 2.5 hr sessions isn’t for
climbers who are new to training altogether?
Lastly – nice job on the new book. I’m familiar with the Anderson’s bros book and have seen good success from it at times. That said, I’m
looking forward to trying your non linear periodization approach.
Rob
daniel duane on March 7, 2019 at 1:38 pm
Hi Steve, I’ve been pairing this program with your Base Strength 2–using those RT sessions instead of these, I mean. I’m doing that
because my long term focus is really on all-around conditioning for the coming outdoor season. To that end, I’d love your take on a few
questions: 1. Any objections to that pairing? 2. I suspect that HB would be more appropriate than campusing at my (low) finger-strength
level; ok to sub in? 3. I’m 51 yrs old and (overuse) injury prone; what’s your view of training modification for age?
Steve Bechtel on March 7, 2019 at 5:44 pm
Hi Daniel,
1. Not a problem. Whatever works in your schedule and with your needs should be fine.
2. You are right!
3. Rule #1 avoid injury. I would stay with slow and steady progress rather than worrying about feeling like the workout is “hard” or
“working.” You can train just as well as you used to, you just need to be more intelligent about rest and recovery.
Christopher Ee on February 15, 2021 at 3:33 am
If I can only commit to 2 days of bouldering in the gym, is it possible to better to extend this training program to 8 weeks instead of the
normal 4 weeks?
Steve Bechtel on February 15, 2021 at 10:32 pm
Yes. That is perfect and very wise. In fact, it will probably work better!
Paula Bock on April 11, 2021 at 6:40 pm
Can you suggest any alternatives for campus training? I do not have access to a campus board. Thank you!
Steve Bechtel on April 12, 2021 at 7:03 pm
Sure. The campus training in this program is minimal, and you could easily substitute some explosive bouldering training or even
Moon Board work. The main thing is to work on power and “jumpy” style movement.
Paula Bock on April 26, 2021 at 5:41 pm
Great! Thank you. I do actually have access to a Moonboard. Another question: how would you recommend scheduling
the strength resistance training in my case: the only time I have access to weights is before a climbing session or on rest
days (this has to do with the different and conflicting hours that the two different gyms (bouldering gym and general
fitness gym) have and my work/life schedule).
Steve Bechtel on April 28, 2021 at 9:08 pm
Well…weight training is clearly not going to be part of a rest day. It’s not ideal to lift before bouldering but it’s
certainly possible. You can also spread the plan out a bit, take a few more weeks to get through it and just
alternate through the days.
The bigger issue is you’re trying to make a specific plan fit a limited schedule. The better path might be to write
out your available training hours for a week, look at your training priority, and schedule about 75% of your time
doing that thing. You can the do all the rest of your activity in that other 25% of your time.
Keep good notes, pay attention to what worked and what didn’t, and you will probably have an excellent personal
plan by the end of the season.
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Power Bouldering Training Plan 1

WEEK Volume Limit Volume

Volume Limit Volume

Volume Limit Volume

Volume Limit Volume

Volume Bouldering – 90 minutes

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

5x Front Squat (https://youtu.be/v3q2WAa8dBc)

30-60 sec Frog Stretch (https://youtu.be/oLfrrZGLJ8Y)

5x Bench Press (https://youtu.be/j4UoQ_0wECE)

30-60sec PVC Shoulder Stretch (https://youtu.be/TKBO0oFQfak)

Limit Bouldering – 90 minutes

Volume Bouldering – 90 minutes

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible.

8x Inverted Row (https://youtu.be/BPYSeoIpfQI)

4+4x Walking Lunge (https://youtu.be/_oD9bjkAhDc)

30-60 sec Fire Log

8x Overhead Press (https://youtu.be/QZUT8hs2lzE)

15x Kettlebell Swing (https://youtu.be/HIxoZwFWqjU)

30-60sec Doorway Shoulder Opener

Limit Bouldering – 90 minutes

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible.

5x Front Squat (https://youtu.be/v3q2WAa8dBc)

30-60 sec Frog Stretch (https://youtu.be/oLfrrZGLJ8Y)

5x Bench Press (https://youtu.be/j4UoQ_0wECE)

30-60sec PVC Shoulder Stretch (https://youtu.be/TKBO0oFQfak)

Volume Bouldering – 120 minutes

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible.

30-60 sec Frog Stretch (https://youtu.be/oLfrrZGLJ8Y)

5x Bench Press (https://youtu.be/j4UoQ_0wECE)

Limit Bouldering – 90 minutes

Campus Training – 20 minutes

3 sets: 1-3-4 or 1-4-6, 2 times per side, rest as needed.

1 set: 1-5 or 1-6, one per side.

Volume Bouldering – 90 minutes

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible.

8x Inverted Row (https://youtu.be/BPYSeoIpfQI)

4+4x Walking Lunge (https://youtu.be/_oD9bjkAhDc)

30-60 sec Fire Log

8x Overhead Press (https://youtu.be/QZUT8hs2lzE)

15x Kettlebell Swing (https://youtu.be/HIxoZwFWqjU)

30-60sec Doorway Shoulder Opener

Limit Bouldering – 90 minutes

Campus Training – 20 minutes

3 sets: 1-3-4 or 1-4-6, 2 times per side, rest as needed.

3 sets: 1-5 or 1-6, one per side.

Volume Bouldering – 120 minutes

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible.

5x Front Squat (https://youtu.be/v3q2WAa8dBc)

30-60 sec Frog Stretch (https://youtu.be/oLfrrZGLJ8Y)

5x Bench Press (https://youtu.be/j4UoQ_0wECE)

30-60sec PVC Shoulder Stretch (https://youtu.be/TKBO0oFQfak)

Limit Bouldering – 90 minutes