Research Article

Volume 10:12, 2021

Industrial Engineering & Management
DOI: 10.37421/iem.2021.10.330

ISSN: 2169-0316 Open Access

Effect of Loop Length in Different Stitches on Dimensional

and Mechanical Property of Single Jersey Knitted Fabrics
Alemayehu Assefa*
Department of Thermal Engineering, Addis Ababa University, Ethiopia

Abstract
Single jersey knitted fabrics are generally used to make underwear and outerwear. To investigate the impact of loop length and stitches design on the dimensional
and mechanical properties of single jersey knitted fabrics, which are develop high-performance knitted goods has been expanded by changing the loop length and the
type stiches design. To analysis the effect of loop length and stitches type on dimensional and mechanical property, 12 sample knitted fabrics by varying loop length
such as 2.5mm,2.7mm,2.9mm and 3.0mm were produced by circular knitting machine. These sample fabrics were produced from 100% cotton 30Ne ring spun yarn by
varying loop length and stitch design. The specimens used for sampling were determined like: CPI, WPI, GSM thickness, stiches density, breaking force and extensibility
properties by using ASTM standards for each test fabric sample. As observed in the result, with an increase in loop length, the dimensional properties CPI, WPI, GSM,
thickness and stitches density decreased for all the stitches design, while mechanical properties like maximum breaking force and extensibility increase with an increase
loop length. Tuck stitch is thickest and heaviest of other stitches for each loop length and knit stitch is highest maximum breaking force and extensibility `of other stiches.
Float stitches fabric is lightest in weight, thinnest in thickness, least extensibility, required lowest breaking force and highest stitch density when compare to tuck and
knit stitches on each loop length. In general loop length and stitch design affects all the dimensional and mechanical properties of knitting fabric. This paper worked on
single jersey, from the analysis grey stage of knit fabrics, that source will show better performance for the summer inner wear and some for winter outwear by change
loop and stitch design.
Keywords: Stitches design • loop Length • GSM • Dimensional Properties • Mechanical Properties

influences fabrics dimensional and mechanical properties [8,9]. In general,

Introduction many researchers have done work on the effect of knitting parameters on some
physical properties, and they studied the effect of yarn parameters mainly yarn
Knitted fabrics are very popular and important part of textile material. It is a count, types of raw material, and yarn twist on mechanical and dimensional
method by which thread or yarn is turned into cloth or intermeshing loops. properties of knitted fabric. Few researchers have also done work on the
Stitch is knitted fabric consists of consecutive rows of loops. As each row effect of knitting parameters mainly machine gauge, stitch density feeding
progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop [1-4]. In knitting and takedown tension on fabric dimensional and comfort properties, such as
industries, many derivatives of single jersey construction can be developed shrinkage, Spirality, bursting, pilling and air permeability[10]. Both dimensional
by knit, tuck, float stitches and their combinations for different reasons mainly properties and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics are influenced by the
for design purposes. A loop is a stitch exhibiting four binding or interlacement structural parameters of the fabrics and finishing process. According to these
zones, that is, two around the needle loop and two around the base. A tuck studies, the strength and the elongation of weft knitted fabrics increased with
stitch is composed of a held loop, one or more tuck loops and knitted loops. increasing density. In the fabrics, loop lengths combine in the form of course
Tuck loops reduce fabric length and lengthwise elasticity because the higher lengths and different stich design influences fabric dimensions and mechanical
yarn tension on the tuck loop causes them to rob yarn from adjacent knitted properties. The present work is focused on the combined effect of three
loops, making them smaller and providing greater stability and shape retention. different types of stitches knit stitch, tuck stitch and float stitches on some of
Float stitch is composed of a held loop, one of more float loops and knitted the dimensional properties of single jersey knitted fabrics such as: CPI, WPI,
loops. Float stitch fabrics are narrower than equivalent all-knit fabrics because GSM thickness and stiches density and also so mechanical properties are: -
the wales are drawn closer together by the floats, thereby reducing width-wise breaking force and extensibility. But a gap between producer and customer
elasticity and improving fabric stability [5]. The different stitch combinations because of unaware of the dimensional and mechanical properties of the
have a significant effect on by different fabric properties of single jersey knitted knitted fabric and also do not know the effect in different stitch design and
fabrics [6]. The physical and mechanical properties of these basic structures loop length variation on properties of knitted fabric. So, this research focus on
differ widely. Due to the structural difference, knitted fabrics are used in to solve those problems by varies stitch design and loop length. Therefore,
different applications [7]. The previous studies reported the effects of physical by using vary loop length and stiches, to produce different dimensional and
parameters such as yarn linear density, yarn twist, loop length, the tightness mechanical properties of knitted fabrics. All the tests for fabric properties were
factor, finishing treatment and degree of washing on the dimensional properties carried out for grey stage; there properties can considerably vary after further
of knitted fabrics. According to these studies, the strength and the elongation finishing of the fabrics.
of weft knitted fabrics increased with increasing density. In the fabrics, loop
lengths combine in the form of course lengths and different stich design
Materials and Methods
*Address for Correspondence: Alemayehu Assefa, Department of Thermal Materials
Engineering, Addis Ababa University, Ethiopia, Tel: 251918554849, E-mail:
[email protected] 100 % cotton ring spun yarn was taken as raw material. The cotton yarn has
Copyright: © 2021 Alemayehu Assefa. This is an open-access article distributed 860m - 1 twist, 30 Ne count, 9.21% U% 0.6 thin - 50% 27.5 thick + 50% and
under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits 30.5 Neps +200%. The single jersey sample knit, tuck and float are produced
unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the
original author and source are credited. Methods
Received 09 December 2021; Accepted 23 December 2021; Published 30 • Sample fabric production: Four samples were produced from
December 2021 each stitches design knit, tuck and float by by using single-bed circular knitting
Assefa A. Ind Eng Manage, Volume 10:10, 2021

machine (Mayer $ Cie, Germany) with 30 cylinder diameter, 72needles, 4 cam loop length, because the loop are drawn closer together by the floats and also
tracks, 4 feeders and 120 creel tracks. float stitch is highest stitch density in each loop length, because loops closed
each other in wale and course direction when compare to other stiches. When
• Sample preparation: By using ASTM and ISO standard.
loop length increase the stitch density single jersey knitting fabric decrease.
Determination of WPI, CPI and Stitch density: By the help of counting glass
to measure WPI and CPI of various stitch length and, to calculate stitch density. Effect of loop Length on GSM
Stitch density = WPI × CPI GSM depends on knit structure, and loop length of knit fabrics. It is clear that
GSM change with the change of stitch length for three stitches of single jersey
Where WPI is Wale per inch and CPI is Course per inch fabric have been seen in bar chart. The figure 1 shows that with the increase of
loop length GSM of the fabric decreases for each stitch design. It is found that
Determination of Fabric Weight (GSM): Standard Test Method ISO 33071
with the increase of loop length there must be more open space in the fabric
Fabric weight (GSM).
hence areal density will decrease Figure 1.
Determination of Fabric Thickness: Standard Test Method ASTM D1777- 96
(2011) thickness (mm). Effect loop length on fabric thickness
Determination of Tensile strength: Standard Test Method ASTM D5034 From figure 2. It is clear that thickness change with the change of stitch length
(strip) measuring Breaking force (N) and Elongation (%). for three stitches of single jersey fabric have been seen in bar chart. show that,
fabric thickness decreases with the increased loop length for three stitches,
Determination of extensibility: Standard Test Method ASTM D2594- this happen compactness of structure and relative closeness of the loops
2004Testing property Extensibility (%). decrease when loop length increase and single jersey knitting Fabric which
contain tuck stitches is thickest stitches due to accumulation of yarn in stitches
Result and Discussion at tucking places for each loop length and float is thinnest other stitch due to
float yarn on fabric (Figure 2).
Effect Loop Length on CPI, WPI and Stitch Density Effect loop length on fabric tensile property
Table 1 Show clear that CPI & WPI change with the change of loop length. From Table 2 show that maximum force required to break the fabrics increase
For single jersey knitting fabric, CPI and WPI decrease with the increase of when loop length increase and also elongation is the fabrics extension
loop length for three stitches design. Tuck stitch is lowest WPI of other stiches percent (%) until the fabric is broken increase for three stitches, this happen
due to the structure with tuck stitches loop shape has a widest base and tuck compactness of structure & relative closeness of the loops decrease when
is higher CPI than knit stiches, during tuck stitch the knitting action up to tuck loop length increase and fabric with knit stitches is maximum force (N) required
height and float stitch is highest both CPI and WPI of other stiches for each to break and elongation(%) other stitches due to most loop configuration occur

Table 1. Averages of WPI, CPI and Stitch density three stitches with vary loop length.

Sample No Loop length WPI CPI Stitch density (WPI× CPI)

(mm) Knit Tuck Float Knit Tuck Float Knit Tuck Float
1 2.5 25 20 31 37 43 50 925 860 1550
2 2.7 23 18 29 35 41 48 805 738 1392
3 2.9 21 16 28 33 39 46 693 624 1092
4 3 20 15 27 32 38 45 640 570 1026

250
GS
200
150
M Knit
100
50 Tuck
0 Float
2.5 2.7 2.9 3
Loop length (mm)

Figure 1. Average of GSM three stitches with varies loop length.

Table 2. Averages of tensile property three stitches with different loop length.

Sample Loop Tensile property

Widthwise Lengthwise
No length Max .Breaking force Elongation (%) Max .Breaking force Elongation (%)
(mm)
Knit Tuck Float Knit Tuck Float Knit Tuck Float Knit Tuck Float
1 2.5 230 210.1 155 162 134 102 201 183 134 136 115 103
2 2.7 256 228.3 177 184 164 125 222 199 153 161 131 125
3 2.9 265 254.6 189 207 179 149 249 218 163 178 153 146
4 3 279 266.2 266 213 191 161 257 232 171 180 167 157

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Assefa A. Ind Eng Manage, Volume 10:10, 2021

0.8
0.6
Thickness
(mm) 0.4 Knit
0.2 Tuck
0
Float
2.5 2.7 2.9 3
Loop length (mm)

Figure 2. Average of thickness three stitches with varies loop length.

Table 3. Average of extensibility properties three stitch with different loop length.
Sample Loop Extensibility (%)
No Length (mm) Lengthwise Widthwise Widthfloat
knit tuck float knit tuck float
1 2.5 70.2 61.5 49.2 102.5 81.8 60.3
2 2.7 81.6 73.5 57.8 123.5 103.5 75.8
3 2.9 95.3 86.5 69.6 146.8 125.8 89.6
4 3 103.8 92.1 74.5 160.3 141.2 102.4

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for three stitches design of single jersey knitting fabric’s, WPI, stitch density,
thickness and GSM decrease with the increase of stitch length. But extensibility
and maximum breaking force increase with the increase of loop length. Knit
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tuck stitch is highest weight and thickness of other stitches design and float
stitch is highest stitch density.

References
How to cite this article: Alemayehu Assefa. “Effect of Loop Length in Different
1. Emdadul Haque and Md Shamim Alam . “Understanding Textiles for a Stitches on Dimensional and Mechanical Property of Single Jersey Knitted
Merchandiser.” BMN foundation Press, Dhaka (2009). Fabrics." Ind Eng Manage 10 (2021): 330.

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