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Effects of Resin Finish on Cotton Blended Woven Fabrics

Article · July 2014

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 International Journal of Scientific Engineering and Technology (ISSN : 2277-1581)
Volume No.3 Issue No.7, pp : 983-990 1 July 2014

Effects of Resin Finish on Cotton Blended Woven Fabrics

Azmary Akter Mukthy, Abu Yousuf Mohammad Anwarul Azim
Department of Textile Engineering, Primeasia University, Dhaka-1213, Bangladesh
Corresponding Email: [email protected]

Abstract--Resin or wrinkle free finishing is widely used in the embossed finishes and finishes with softeners, stiffening agents,
textile industry to impart wrinkle-resistance to cotton fabrics water-repellents and oil-repellents. Cellulosic fiber-containing
and garments. Considerable loss in strength of the finished fabrics are made wrinkle resistant by a durable press wrinkle-free
fabrics has been a major concern for the industry. The overall process which comprises treating a cellulosic fiber-containing
objectives of this work are to investigate the effect of resin fabric.
finish on wrinkle recovery, tensile strength, bending length & • Crosslinking agent
DP ratings of cotton and cotton blended fabrics. However the • Catalyst
changes due to crease resist finish are found to be statistically • Additives
significant. In addition, the wrinkle recovery angle • Surfactants
increases approximately 42% , breaking strength reduces Crosslinking agents
about 64% , Stiffness increases 8% after the crease Resin finishing is carried out with products known as crosslink-
resistant finishing. To find out the varieties of cotton blended ing agents. These change woven and knitted fabrics composed
fabrics in order to develop market viable new products is also of cellulosic fibres and their blends with synthetic fibres in such
another purpose of this project. a way that the resulting textiles are easier to care for.
Catalysts
Keywords-- Crease resistant finish, Tensile Strength, Bending Another essential component of the resin-finishing recipe is the
length, Wrinkle recovery angle and DP. catalyst. It allows the reaction to be carried out within the 130
I. Introduction –180 °C temperature range usually employed in the textile in-
Resin finishing has been able to maintain its position in the fi- dustry, and within the usual curing times (several minutes in the
nishing of textiles based on cellulosic fibres despite various dis- case of curing machines and several seconds in the case of sten-
advantages such as strength losses, shade changes, reduced ters).Three classes of catalysts are distinguished in the dry cros-
whiteness, and controversy about formaldehyde content. In fact, slinking process commonly used today:
recently there has been a resurgence in its importance, because it • Ammonium salts, e. g. ammonium chloride, sulfate and nitrate
allows textile finishers to stand out from the competitors by • Metal salts, e. g. magnesium chloride, zinc nitrate, zinc chlo-
producing fabrics with enhanced quality. ride, aluminium sulfate and aluminium hydroxychloride
• Catalyst mixtures, e. g. magnesium chloride with added organ-
II. The Advantages Of Resin-Finished Over Unfinished Textiles, ic and inorganic acids or acid donors.
Especially After Washing, Are: Additives
• Improved dimensional stability and shape retention The purpose of the additives is to offset partly or completely the
• Less tendency to creasing adverse effects of the crosslinking agent. Thus softening and
• Easier to iron smoothing agents are applied not only to improve the handle, but
• Softer and smoother also to compensate as much as possible for losses in tear
• Better appearance and therefore more durable strength and abrasion resistance. Other additives serve to impart
• Less change in shade a particular character to the fabric. Examples are stiffening and
• Improved wet fastness of dyeing and prints filling agents, water-repellents, hydrophilizing agents, etc. Addi-
• Less tendency to pilling, especially of fibre blends tives may be the following categories:-
• Greater wash resistance of mechanically produced lustre and • Polymers based on acrylic monomers, vinyl monomers, silox-

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 International Journal of Scientific Engineering and Technology (ISSN : 2277-1581)
Volume No.3 Issue No.7, pp : 983-990 1 July 2014
anes, amides, urethanes and ethylene The swelling of cellulosic fibres by moisture can be reduced by
• Low-molecular substances such as fatty acid derivatives and the application of self crosslinking urea or melamine products as
quaternary ammonium compounds well as by products that mainly crosslink with cellulose mole-
• Mixtures of these substances cules. Without such a crosslinking finish, cellulose fibres can
Surfactants take up more than 10 % of their weight in water. As the fibres
Every resin-finishing recipe contains surfactants as emulsifiers, swell, the
wetting agents and stabilizers. These surface-active substances fabric must crease and shrink to relieve the internal stresses
are necessary to ensure that the fabric is wet rapidly and tho- caused by the swelling. The new arrangement of the cellulose
roughly during padding and to stabilize the recipe components molecules in the swollen form of the fibre is fixed by newly
and liquors. An enormous variety of surfactants exists. Only the formed hydrogen bonds between adjacent cellulose molecules,
most important group of nonionic surfactants for resin finishing, mostly in the amorphous fibre area. Therefore the uneven and
the ethoxylates, will be discussed here. The general formula of wrinkled appearance of the cellulose fabric remains after drying,
an ethoxylate is: R–O–[CH2CH2O]n–H in contrast to fabrics made of nonswelling synthetic fibres.Two
R = long-chain fatty alcohol or alkylphenol group the recipe different chemical approaches have been used commerciall to
components and liquors. producenon-swelling or durable press cellulose fabrics. The
original approach is theincorporation of a polymerised finish
III. Causes Of Crease Formation in the pores of the fibres, so that water molecules cannot easily
Deep wrinkles in fabric--or creases--are most often a result of penetrate the fibre. The newer approach is the reaction of multi-
day-to-day wear. The pressure from sitting or leaning for extended functional crosslinking agents with the hydroxyl groups of adja-
periods of time will cause folds in the fabric to form creases in cent cellulose molecules that hinder the swelling of the cellulose
garments. Some creases, however, result from improperly folding fibre.
or storing clothing. Many textile scientists have studied new me-
thods to measure wrinkle resistances of fabrics [1-7]. It is best to V. Cross-Linking Agent
hang clothes when not being worn to reduce wrinkling [8]. Not all The first resin-finishing agents – developed in the 1930s to im-
wrinkles are the result of pressure, and some fabrics are more prove the poor wet strength of viscose staple fabrics – were
likely to wrinkle than others. In addition to the weave and compounds of formaldehyde and urea, though compounds of
thread-count of a textile, the fibers manufacturers use to produce formaldehyde and melamine were later also used. In recent years
fabric can affect how a fabric will wrinkle. Cellulose materials the importance of this group of crosslinking agents has declined
such as cotton, viscose and linen have a very poor resistance to because of the controversy about the high levels of free formal-
creasing [9] . The primary cause of the shrinkage of cellulosic dehyde in the products and on the finished goods. With the ap-
fibres is the fact that these fibres can readily absorb moisture. pearance of easycare synthetic fibres in the 1950s, heterocyclic
This absorbed moisture facilitates internal polymer chain move- crosslinking agents were developed to improve the competitive-
ments in the amorphous fibre areas by lubrication. It disrupts the ness of cotton. Heterocyclic crosslinking agents are based on
internal hydrogen bonding between these polymer chains. When urea, formaldehyde, and various other substances such as di-
a moisture laden cellulosic fibre is stressed, the internal polymer amines and, in particular, glyoxal of the crosslinking agents that
chains of the amorphous areas are free to move to relieve that are formaldehyde-free, only products made from dimethyl urea
stress. Hydrogen bonds can reform between the polymer chains and glyoxal have gained a small share of the market. Other for-
in their shifted positions, in effect locking in the new configura- maldehyde-free crosslinkers have remained insignificant be-
tion. With no restoring forces available, a newly formed wrinkle cause of high toxicity, high manufacturing costs, inadequate
or crease will remain until additional processes (ironing for ex- wash resistance or poor effects. Since practically all effective
ample) apply adequate moisture and mechanical forces to over- resin-finishing agents are based on formaldehyde, they have
come the internal forces. become part of the public debate about the toxicity of this sub-
stance. This debate has strongly influenced and stimulated the
IV. Mechanisms of Easy-Care Finishing development of crosslinking agents in recent years. New cros-

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 International Journal of Scientific Engineering and Technology (ISSN : 2277-1581)
Volume No.3 Issue No.7, pp : 983-990 1 July 2014
slinkers for low-formaldehyde finishing and formaldehyde-free system plays such an important role in influencing the strength
resins were developed. With the revival of resin finishing, loss of cotton fabrics cross-linked by DMDHEU, the selection of
processes that were almost forgotten, such as postcuring and the catalyst system and its concentration is crucial for optimising
moist crosslinking, are being applied again. the tensile strength retention of the finished fabrics [12-14].
The crosslinking agents that result in the permanent press finish
are often derivatives of urea. A popular agent is DMDHEU, di- 6. Effect Of Cross-Linking On Fabric Properties
methylol dihydroxyethyleneurea [10]. The reaction with cross-linking agents depends on changes in the
physico-chemical properties of the fibres, such as swelling and
solubility behavior [15-17]. As consequence of the cross-links in
the structure, fibre mechanical properties are changed by gaining
weight, moisture and on dimensional stability that imparts the
qualities like freedom from wrinkles, crease recovery, tensile
strength, tearing strength and abrasion resistance. These give
cotton some elastic and resiliency properties. Such cross-linked
cotton can recover from deformation stresses and thus wrinkles
will not form [18].

VII. Types Of Cross-Linking Process

The resin-finishing process involves padding and drying the
open-width, cellulosic-fibre-based fabric and then curing it by
one of a number of methods.
Figure 1. Synthesis of DMDHEU
The principal reaction of DMDHEU products is the crosslinking The following different crosslinking processes are used in resin
of adjacent cellulose molecules, as shown in Figure 2. finishing:
. • Dry crosslinking process
• Moist crosslinking process
• Wet crosslinking process
• Postcure process
• Precure process
Figure 2. The permanent press effect arises from crosslinking
• Dip-dry process
of molecules of cellulose by chemical agents such as
DMDHEU
Dry crosslinking process
 The catalysts used for DMDHEU systems, such as The most important of these processes is dry crosslinking, in
magnesium chloride, cause degradation of cellulose, thus reduc- which the fabric is cured in a dry state. After being padded, the
ing the tensile and tear strength of cotton fabric. The magnitude of fabric is usually dried on the stenter and then cured in a curing
fabric strength loss is affected by temperature, time, and con- apparatus, or on the stenter immediately after drying
centration of the catalyst. Fabric strength loss also depends on (flash-curing process).
both the cation and anion of the catalyst. An activated catalyst
system, which includes an organic acid, causes more severe fabric Moist crosslinking process
tensile strength loss[11]. In moist crosslinking, the fabric is cured in a moist, partially
swollen state (about 6 –12 % residual moisture). The fabric is
 Tensile strength loss of cotton fabric treated with padded with liquor containing a mineral-acid catalyst in addition
DMDHEU is due to both the cross-linking of cellulose and the to the crosslinker. BASF recommends sulfuric acid, because
degradation of cellulose caused by the catalyst. Because a catalyst hydrochloric acid is problematic for various reasons including

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 International Journal of Scientific Engineering and Technology (ISSN : 2277-1581)
Volume No.3 Issue No.7, pp : 983-990 1 July 2014
hydrogen chloride in the exhaust air. The fabric is subsequently Precure process
dried to a residual moisture content of 6 –12 %. After being Crosslinking in the precure process is also carried out in the dry
batched for one or two days at a temperature of 25 – 35 °C, the state. Another permanent-press method, it is a special case in
fabric is washed, neutralized and dried. Afterwards it is usually which blended wovens of synthetic and cellulosic fibres (usually
further treated with handle-finishing agents. The process is very PES/CO or PES/CV with over 60 % PES) are provided with
expensive, because several drying steps are necessary. Moreover, permanent creases. In the first step, the cellulosic component
in practice it is difficult to maintain the exact conditions required, undergoes standard continuous resin-finishing by the dry cros-
such as residual moisture content and batching temperature. slinking process. After making-up, the finished garment is
Very good easy care effects, low formaldehyde values and low shaped by heat setting the synthetic fibres at high temperature
strength losses are obtained only if these conditions are exactly and under high pressure in special ironing presses. Today, the
maintained. The process has regained importance in recent years, name “precure process” is occasionally given to the dry cros-
following an interval of more than 20 years, in the manufacture slinking process to distinguish it from the postcure process.
of virtually non-iron, all-cotton textiles of acceptable strength. The original precure process is no longer important.

Wet crosslinking process Dip-dry process

In wet crosslinking, the reaction takes place when the fabric is in The dip-dry process is a special case of the permanent-press or
a wet, fully swollen state. Today this method is no longer used, postcure process. The fabric is first made up into garments,
even though it is much easier to carry out than moist crosslink- which are dipped to impregnate them with the finishing liquor,
ing, because the dry crease recovery is almost the same as that of centrifuged, dried, ironed and cured. This process has also expe-
untreated cotton textiles. As in the moist crosslinking process, a rienced a revival.
liquor containing a strong mineral acid is applied and the batch
of wet fabric is rotated for about 20 hours at room temperature. VIII. Experimental
The fabric is then washed, dried, neutralized and, if necessary, VIII.1. Materials:
aftersoftened. Because of the repeated drying required, this Fabrics used:
process is also expensive. 1. 100% cotton woven fabric
2. 99% cotton & 1% spandex blended woven fabric
Postcure process 3. 98% cotton & 2% spandex blended woven fabric
The postcure process is another old process that has experienced 4. 65% cotton & 35% polyester (PC) blended woven fabric
a revival, beginning in the USA. It belongs to the dry crosslink-
ing methods and is the most significant permanent-press method. VIII.2. Experimental tools & equipment
The fabric is treated as in standard dry crosslinking but not cured.  Resin used:
The treated fabric is subsequently made up into garments and  Formaldehyde resin, DMDHEU(BASF)
provided with crease lines or pleats in the steam press before  Concentration of resin: High
being oven-cured. Earlier permanent-press methods, for example  Methods of application: Padding and Curing
the Koratron process, have disappeared as a result of a number
VIII.3. Methods
of disadvantages, such as a formaldehyde odour problem during
Pre-Cure process:
steaming (more than 1000 ppm in the AATCC 112 test!) and a
The samples fabrics are cut into 35cmx35cm for padding in
pronounced shade change because of the zinc nitrate that had to
padding machine. At first samples are padded into a padding
be used to achieve the necessary high reactivity. Today’s post-
machine at 5.5 bar pressure. After padding these samples were
cure process can be carried out with low-formaldehyde cros-
dried at 120ºC for 2 min and cured at 170ºC temperature for 45
slinkers that are reactive enough to be catalysed with magnesium
seconds in a pre-heated oven of 50ºC.
chloride, and formaldehyde-free crosslinkers that have the addi-
The following recipe is used for padding:
tional advantage of producing an even better tensile strength.

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 International Journal of Scientific Engineering and Technology (ISSN : 2277-1581)
Volume No.3 Issue No.7, pp : 983-990 1 July 2014
1. Fixapret Resin CL: 100g/l And After Resign Finish
2. Fixapret Catalyst F-M: 30g/l IX. Result
3. Perapret Additive PEP: 30g/l IX. 1. Recovery angle
4. Siligen Softener SIE: 20g/l Machine: Shirley Crease Recovery tester
5. Kieralon Washoff XC-J Conc : 1g/l Sample size: 4.4cmx1.5cm
6. PH: 5.5 Table 1. Recovery angle of different types of fabrics
7. Padder pressure 1.5 bar before and after resign finish
8. Pick-Up% :65-75%
Particulars Warp way angle (de- Weft way
In figure 3 samples image are shown.
gree) angle (degree)

Before After Before After

finish finish finish finish
1.100% cotton 76 142 80 125
woven fabric

2.99% cotton &1% 64 126 100 130

spandex blended
woven fabric

3.98% cotton & 124 154 58 84

2% spandex
blended woven
fabric
4.65% cotton & 98 92 107 116
35% polyester
blended woven
fabric

Figure 3. Image Of Different Types Of Fabrics Before

IX.2. Stiffness:
Machine: Shirley Stiffness Tester
Sample size: 6inX1in

IX. 3. Tensile strength

Machine: Good brand vertical strength tester Table 4. Tensile strength different types of fabrics before and
Sample size: 8inx2in after resign finish (Warp way)

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 International Journal of Scientific Engineering and Technology (ISSN : 2277-1581)
Volume No.3 Issue No.7, pp : 983-990 1 July 2014
1. 100% cotton woven fabric Close to 4
Particulars Tensile strength (Pound)
Before finish After finish 1. 99% cotton &1% span- Close to 4
dex blended woven fa-
1.100% cotton 142 71
bric
woven fabric
2. 98% cotton & 2% span- Close to 4
2.99% cotton 99 64
dex blended woven fa-
&1% spandex
bric
blended woven
3. 65% cotton & 35% po- Close to 4
fabric
lyester blended woven
3.98% cotton & 130 79
fabric
2% spandex
blended woven
X. Result Discussion
fabric
 Effect of treatment on wrinkle recovery
4.65% cotton & 45 40
The results of wrinkle recovery of treated fabric are shown in
35% polyester
table 1 It is observed from the table that in all the treatments the
blended woven
wrinkle recovery is increased but the increase is not the same in
fabric
all cases significant increase in wrinkle recovery has been ob-
served .On comparing wrinkle recovery of fabrics, it is observed
Table 5. Tensile strength different types of fabrics before and that the treated fabrics show 42% increase in wrinkle recovery
after resign finish (Weft way) angle in warp direction and 32% increase in weft direction over
untreated fabrics. This is due to the accelerated catalytic reac-
Particulars Tensile strength (Pound) tion at high temperature.

Before finish After finish  Effect on bending length:

1.100% cotton woven 170 119 Table 2 and 3 shows that all the treated fabrics generally had
fabric smaller bending length meaning that all the treated fabrics were
2.99% cotton &1% span- 166 130 stiffer when compared to the untreated fabric. It is observed that
dex blended woven fabric the treated fabrics show 8% increase in bending length in warp
(Table 2) direction and 6% increase in weft direction (Table 3)
over untreated fabrics. This is due to the accelerated catalytic
3.98% cotton & 2% 212 111
reaction at high temperature. When the treated fibres were dried
spandex blended woven
during the curing step the finishing agent molecules present
fabric
inside would react with the cellulose surfaces and the reactivity
4. 65% cotton & 35% 171 165
is higher pre-cure technique due to high temperature which
polyester blended woven
gives higher activation energy to both the hydroxyl groups of
fabric
the substrate and the finishing agent. As the cross links intro-
duced between the hydroxyl groups were covalent bonds that
IX. 4. DP rating
held the cellulose molecules together, they would function as a
Method: ISO Home Wash & Tumble dry: 30 min at 60-900C
swelling restraint (Kling, 2001). When the fibre cross sectional
Table 6. DP rating of different types of fabrics
area increases and other factors remain constant, the stiffness
will increase (Frushour and Knorr, 1983).
Particulars Durable Press (DP)
 Effect of treatment on Tensile Strength:
Rating

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 International Journal of Scientific Engineering and Technology (ISSN : 2277-1581)
Volume No.3 Issue No.7, pp : 983-990 1 July 2014
To evaluate the effect of treatment on fabric strength, tensile ments: http://www.indianapparelportal.com.

strength of the fabric was analysed which is shown in Table 4 ix. Savilla B P,physical Testing of Textile (TheTextile Institute &

and 5, the tensile strength of the fabric is found to be reduced in Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge),2003,310.

both warp (Table 4) & weft (Table 5) direction. It is found that x. Klaus Fischer et al. "Textile Auxiliaries" inUllmann's Encyclope-

the decrease in tensile strength of finish fabric as compared to dia of Industrial Chemistry

unfinished fabric is 64% in warp direction and 43% in weft 2002,Wiley-VCH,Weinheim. doi:10.1002/14356007.a26_227

direction .The acidity (pH-5.5) of the finishing agent has a xi. He development of DMDHEU is described in this news re-

significant effect on the reduction of tensile strength of the port: http://chemistry.about.com

treated fabric. /od/howthingsworkfaqs/f/clotheswrinkle.htm

xii. Chen C C: Cross-linking of Cotton FabricTreated with DMDHEU
XI. Conclusion Using the High Tem perature Steam Process, Textile Research Journal, 1990,
From the findings of the study it can be concluded that there is: Vol 60, pp 118-122.
1. Increased crease recovery xiii. Pai S D, Ukidve A V, Raje C R and BhaskarP: Properties of
2. Increased stiffness Chemically Treated Fabrics, The Indian Textile Journal, March 1999,pp
3. Decreased in tensile strength 32-34.
4. Improved DP rating xiv. Chaudhari R: Wrinkle Resistance Finishing:Ironing Out the
5. Free from chemical residues due to aging Concepts, Journal of Textile Association, May-June 1997, pp 19-21.
xv. Pandey S N and Nair P: Cross-linking of Cotton Cellulose with
XII. Suggestions Triazone and DMDHEU,The Indian Textile Journal, January 1988,pp
Similar studies should be carried out on all the varieties of 110-118.
cotton blended fabrics in order to develop market viable new xvi. Sa Whney P S, Harper R J, Robert K Q and Ruppenicker G F:
products. Finishing and Properties of Fabrics Produced with PolyesterS-
taple-Core/Cotton-Warp Yarns", Textile Research Journal, July 1991, Vol 61,
XIII. Acknowledgement
No 7, pp 393-397.
We wish to express my sense of gratitude to all the people who
xvii. Tsung-Yuan Han and Cheng-Chi Chen:Cross-linking of Sulfonated
have contributed towards the preparation of this project. Our
Cotton Cellulose,Textile Research Journal, 1998, Vol 68, No 2,pp 115-120.
sincere gratitude is to Mr. Khaled Mamun to help us in suc-
xviii. Jessica Bujol (2002): New Cotton: Inventor of Wrinkle-free Cotton,
cessfully completed this project with a deep sense of self con-
Ruth Rogan Benerito,New Orleans, 1960.
tentment. We are extremely thankful to my supervisor Dr.
Ummul Khair Fatema for supervising my work by giving in-
formation, methodology of the project and extremely thankful
to the management of BASF for providing all the chemicals,
machine for my experiment. We also thankfully place on record
the untiring support rendered to me by Mr. Kashem Anamul to
provide me the fabrics.
References
i. Kim E H,Text Res j,69(1999)860.
ii. Yang X B & Huang X B,Text Resj,73(2003)451.
iii. Kang T J & Lee Y J,Text Res j,70(2000)469.
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vi. Amirbayat j & Alagha M J,Text Resj,87(1996)349.
vii. X u W & Li Y, Text Res j,86(1995)129.
viii. Wrinkle Free Finish on Gar-

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 International Journal of Scientific Engineering and Technology (ISSN : 2277-1581)
Volume No.3 Issue No.7, pp : 983-990 1 July 2014

Table 2. Stiffness of different types of fabrics before and after resign finish (Warp way)

Front Left Front Right Back Left Back Right

Particulars Before After Before After Before After Before After

Finish Finish Finish Finish Finish Finish Finish Finish

1. 100% Cotton
2.2 2.3 2.1 2.2 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.0
woven fabric

2. 99% Cotton &

1% Spandex 2.25 2.4 2.2 2.5 2.4 2.45 2.5 2.6
blended fabric
3. 98% Cotton &
2% Spandex 3.0 3.6 2.6 2.8 2.6 3.9 3.0 3.6
blended fabric
4. 65% Cotton &
35% Polyester 3.6 4.1 3.7 3.8 3.3 4.0 3.2 4.1
blended fabric

Table 3. Stiffness of different types of fabrics before and after resign finish (Weft way)

Front Left Front Right Back Left Back Right

Particulars
Before After Before After Before After Before After
Finish Finish Finish Finish Finish Finish Finish Finish

1. 100% Cotton
2.5 2.6 2.6 2.7 2.5 2.8 2.5 2.6
woven fabric

2. 99% Cotton &

1% Spandex 2.2 2.4 2.2 2.3 2.0 2.2 2.0 2.3
blended fabric
3. 98% Cotton &
2% Spandex 2.6 2.9 2.45 2.6 2.2 2.5 2.3 2.5
blended fabric
4. 65% Cotton &
35% Polyester 2.7 3.0 2.5 3.0 2.7 3.1 3.1 3.0
blended fabric

IJSET@2014 Page 990

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