PHILIPPINE WOODS CLASSIFICATION

KAMAGONG
Also known as Philippine Ebony, kamagong is a wood unique to the country. With a
black heartwood (inner region) and gray sapwood, this produces really dramatic, dark
timber hence the name. The grain is often grayish and has strong, dark brown streaks.
“It’s good to use on accent pieces lang, but [it] may not be good idea to make a whole
furniture piece out of it,” says Benji.

Ideal for: Small, decorative pieces and combat tools like arnis sticks and eskrima

MOLAVE
One of the hardest local woods, molave has a fine texture that makes it smooth to the
touch. It’s available in pale yellow to pinkish-brownish tone with a lighter sapwood (outer
region), and mostly straight grain. It has no distinct odor.  

Ideal for: window frames, shipbuilding, structural posts, railroad tracks, and other
outdoor applications

NARRA
This very popular tropical wood has tones that range from yellow to red. The grain
(texture and alignment of wood fiber) is often interlocked and wavy, which creates
interesting flame and ribbon figures when quartersawn or flat sawn, which makes it a
beautiful finishing material. Texture can be anywhere from average-fine to average-
coarse. The wood itself is lustrous and has an attractive odor. Narra is classified as
endangered and vulnerable here, and in Malaysia.

Ideal for: furnishings, floor planks, wall panels

TANGUILE
A moderately hard reddish wood, tanguile is one of the seven local woods often referred
to as Philippine Mahogany. This abundant wood type boasts of fine ribbon or straight
grain. It’s relatively soft and easy to work on, but resilient enough for outdoor
construction.

Ideal for: interior finishes, cabinets, boat building

YAKAL 
This resinous wood with yellow to golden-red tones is another local mahogany type. A
high-grade timber, yakal can tolerate harsh hot and cold weathers.

Ideal for: furniture, surface finishes, small weapons, and outdoor constructions
CLASSIFICATION OF PHILIPPINE WOODS
For commercial purposes, Philippine woods are classified into first, second, third and fourth groups.
Classification of Philippine Woods according to forest charges as stated on Revenue Regulation No. 3, s.
1972 dated April 17, 1972.

First Group

1. Afu 21. Dangula o Sasalit 41. Lijinai 61. Narak

2. Almaciga 22. Dao 42. Lumbayao Bato 62. Narig
3. Almon 23. Dungon 43. Magasusu 63. Narra
4. Amugis 24. Dungon Late 44. Malaanonang 64. Pagatpat
5. Apitong 25. Duyok-duyok 45. Makaasim 65. Pahutan
6. Akle 26. Ebony 46. Malabunga 66. Piagau
7. Anangan 27. Gisok 47. Malaguijo 67. Pine, Benguet
8. Bagtikan 28. Gisok-gisok 48. Malakadios 68. Red Lauan
9. Bakan 29. Guijo 49. Malakawayan 69. White Lauan
10. Balu 30. Igem 50. Maluwai 70. Saplungan
11. Banaba 31. Ipil 51. Manggachapui 71. Sudiang
12. Bansalagin 32. Kaburo 52. Nato 72. Supa
13. Batikulin 33. Kalantas 53. Palosapis 73. Tabau
14. Batitinan 34. Kalamansi 54. Manggasinoro 74. Tabigi
15. Betis 35. Kaliot 55. Maranggo 75. Tindalo
16. Betenghol 36. Kamagong 56. Margapali 76. Teak
17. Bitaog 37. Kamuning 57. Matang Araw 77. Urung
18. Bulong Eta 38. Kulilisan 58. Mayapis 78. Yakal
19. Gana-fistola 39. Liusin 59. Mahogany
20. Dagang 40. Lumbayao 60. Molave

Second Group

1. Agoho 21. Lanutan 41. Tiga

2. Agoho del Monte 22. Loktob 42. Tukang Kalaw
3. Alupag 23. Malabatino 43. Toog
4. Alupag Amo 24. Malabayabas
5. Anubing 25. Malakatmon
6. Bagras (Amamanit) 26. Manngis
7. Balete 27. Mangkas
8. Batino 28. Mapilig
9. Bayok 29. Palomara del Monte
10. Binggas 30. Marag
11. Bitanghol 31. Palataogen
12. Dita 32. Panau
13. Kamatog 33. Pili
14. Katmon 34. Phlippine Chestnut
15. Katmon Kalabaw 35. Rain Tree (Acacia)
16. Kayu-galu 36. Sangilo
 17. Kubi 37. Taba
18. Hagakgak 38. Tamayuan
19. Lanio 39. Tangile
20. Lanipau 40. Tanglin

Third Group

1. Amayan 21. Kalingag 41. Malatumbaga

2. Anislag 22. Kalumpit 42. Matamata
3. Antipolo 23. Kansulud 43. Miao
4. Api-api 24. Kato 44. Nangka
5. Bakawan 25. Kayataw 45. Pototan
6. Balakat 26. Lulling Manok 46. Sakat
7. Balikbikan 27. Dalinsi 47. Salakin
8. Balobo 28. Gisihan 48. Salingkugi
9. Bangkal 29. Gubas 49. Sandit
10. Batukanag 30. Lago 50. Santol
11. Biyanti 31. Lamog 51. Tanghas
12. Binurang 32. Lanipau 52. Talisay
13. Bogo 33. Malakamias 53. Talisay gubat
14. Bolon 34. Langarsi 54. Taluto
15. Bulala 35. Mambingan 55. Tinsang Pintasi
16. Bulog 36. Malapapaya 56. Tusi
17. Basaing 37. Malasaging 57. Unik
18. Baras 38. Malacoan Sau
19. Bugas 39. Malaanonang
20. Kautuan Bangkal 40. Malasantol

Fourth Group

The fourth group shall include all species not included in any of the three groups.

It should be noted that the classification of Philippines woods according to strength does not change.
In other words, trees like apitong, red lauan, mayapis, and bagtikan remain in the second group.

Common Wood Defects: Types &

Causes of Lumber Issues
Unfortunately, there are very few perfect pieces of lumber out there. If you are
going to build a deck, you might as well become familiar with the different types of
defects so you know what to watch out for.

Defects in lumber are faults that detract from the appearance and utility of the
wood. Some are present when the wood is produced and others develop or
become more severe as the wood ages. As a general rule, you can reduce the
amount of defects by purchasing higher-grade materials at the outset.

Properly drying the wood before it is installed will also help. Using protective stains
on your deck can prevent some damage to the wood by slowing down the drying
process in order to limit checking. Stains can also conceal visual defects by covering
them with a consistent color throughout the deck.

Warping is any variation from a true plane surface on a piece of lumber. This occurs
due to the differences between radial, tangential and longitude shrinkage in a piece
of wood or growth stresses that encourage the board to reform its original shape.

Checks and Splits

A check is a term used to describe a crack that runs through a board, usually
running lengthwise. It is usually caused when lumber dries out too quickly. Adding a
UV-protective stain can help protect decking and rails. Checking often affects
pressure-treated framing materials as they are usually sold very green and are put
under a lot of stress as they dry out in the sun. Thicker members like 6x6 posts
tend to dry out unevenly and are especially susceptible to extreme checking.

Wood reacts differently in the various climates across the U.S., and different species
and grades also have differing appearances. Straight from the lumberyard, lumber
components likely already have some cracking and checking present. Lumber
grading procedures evaluate these conditions piece by piece and rate the lumber
accordingly. A grade one lumber is of better quality, and thus of greater structural
performance than a grade two, for example. When it comes to posts, grade two is
most often accepted and the market norm.

Exterior environments have fluctuating moisture content in the air and materials.
Whether in a dry or wet climate, there will still be annual variation. With the
typically large cross-sections of posts, commonly 4x4 or 6x6, the lumber does not
dry uniformly. As the wood dries, it shrinks, and the shrinking often causes existing
cracks to open or twisting to occur. This is normal and structurally acceptable in
most cases.

Pecking is a strange phenomenon found in certain kinds of wood, like cypress. This
appears on lumber as a cavity or pitted area in a board caused by a parasitic fungus
when the tree is still alive. The decay stops after the tree is cut. The result is an
unusual textured surface.

Rot and Decay

Rot and decay is the general description for the disintegration of wood fiber. Decay
is caused by microscopic organisms like mold and fungus that feed off the natural
substances found in wood. Fungi require four conditions in order to survive: an
oxygen supply, 40-100 F temperatures, a supply of moisture (most fungi need a
moisture content of 30% or more to thrive) and a food source. Some woods like
cedar and redwood have extracts in their heartwood that make them naturally
resistant to decay. Pressure-treated wood uses man-made chemicals that are toxic
to fungus and mold. Many stains have mildew inhibitors that should help prevent
decay. The most effective method of avoiding decay is to keep your deck materials
dry before and after installation.
The Heart Pith is the spongy center of the tree that appears on the surface of the
board. The true pith is the size of a pencil or ¼" in diameter, but it may move
around a lot in crooked trees. In addition to the pith, the first 3 or 4 growth rings
are pretty immature and should be treated with caution. As these underdeveloped
sections dry out, they can open up and curl at the edges. You will probably want to
cut out this section.

Ring Shake
Ring Shake is caused by parasitic bacteria that weaken the wood and results in
cracking between and parallel to the tree's growth rings, resulting in lower strength.
This is much like a large straw with a smaller straw inside of it. If it is stood upright,
it can fall out of the bottom. Ring Shake can also cause a dark discoloration and an
unpleasant vinegar or rancid odor. This defect usually occurs in wood with high-
moisture content. It takes a long time for shake to spread, so it is usually found only
in the lower part of trees and can be cut out.

Some boards appear to have discolored streaks. They are commonly referred to as
mineral streaks. This happens when dark colored minerals are drawn into the tree
from its water source or when mold grows in poorly ventilated areas. The stains are
generally blue or brown. Stains can be cut out or covered by a dark colored wood
stain. Some commercial wood cleaners containing oxalic acid can be effective to
clean off stains from mold.

Many types of insects feed on and make their home in wood. Beetles, moths and
wasps are the most common types. Most insect borers are "secondary invaders" or
are attracted to wood that is already weakened, damaged or dying. The insect’s
presence usually means the tree is already in poor health. Wood-boring insects
produce sawdust like frass (excrement). Their holes are usually round and are
scattered in a random pattern across the wood. Wood content must be over 30%
moisture content for insects to thrive. Pin wormholes are wormholes that are
smaller than ¼" in diameter.

Pitch, Gum and Sap

These conditions are seen as a pocket of bleeding resinous material found on a
board and occur when the tree is injured. It sometimes happens when a feeding
insect damages the living part of the bark. Resin or sap can stain lumber and may
cause difficulty when applying finishes.

Wane
The presence of bark or the absence of wood on the corners of a board is called
wane. This defect will only be found in lower-grade lumber. You may be able to turn
the board over to conceal this kind of defect in some applications.

Shelling is a severe raised grain on the pith side of lumber. Because trees' growth
rings are made up of earlywood and latewood layers, repeated cycles of wetting
and drying can cause the earlywood to separate from the latewood. This is the
most common in southern pine lumber.
Crook or Crown
A crook or crown is a defect found in a board that is bent end-to-end in the
direction of the tall ends of a board as it continues down the length of the board. It
can occur from uneven drying or if the tree's pith (soft core at the center of the
tree) is at the edge of the board. You may be able to rip the board to recover a
narrower straight board, or make multiple passes through a jointer.

Bow
A bow is a defect in a board that bends along the grain lines. If the board were laid
across a flat surface, both ends would be in the air. There is no warp across the
grain. This can be caused by uneven air circulation as the wood dries. Any bowing
causes internal stresses that will make the board difficult to cut. Ripping a board
that is bowed can be dangerous. Crosscutting should be done with the bow facing
upwards.
Cup
Cupping occurs when the board bends edge-to-edge across the face of a board and
where the ends of the boards will look like the letter "U". It is common in boards
that are cut close to the pith. Cupped boards can be ripped into smaller boards and
planed. Trying to force it flat can cause cracking.

Twist
Twisting is a general term for a board that bends in any variety of directions and
cannot maintain a straight line. Sometimes one corner doesn’t line up with the
others. It usually occurs when the wood grain pattern is not parallel to the edge.
Knot
A knot is a defect in a piece of wood caused by the presence of a branch. Grading
lumber knots are classified for their size, form, soundness and the firmness with
which they are held in place. Knots are not only unattractive looking, they also can
weaken the board strength and often act as the starting points for checking. Higher
grades of lumber will have fewer and smaller knots.

Dead or Loose Knot – During the development of a tree, lower branches usually
die off and are surrounded by subsequent growth around it. Dead branches
produce knots in this way that are not attached to the wood and are more likely to
fall out.

Tight Knot or Closed Knot– Tight knots do not affect the wood's strength and have
a flat face free of openings on the board’s surface. These knots were produced
from a living branch that was incorporated into the tree as it grew.

Spike Knot – Spike knots are the result of a branch that runs into the edge of a
piece of lumber, growing larger as it nears the edge. These can become raised on a
deck surface and can be very sharp and dangerous to step on with bare feet. Do
your best to cut these sections out as they can pose the worst problems.

Pin Knot – A knot that is less than ½". Smaller knots are usually sounder and are
less visible. They may be present on some higher grades of wood.

Manufacturing Defects For Decking

These are defects found in lumber that are caused by sawing and dressing lumber.
The machining process to produce dimensional lumber puts a large amount of
stress on wood. In trying to reshape a large uneven log composed of complicated
grain patterns into usable lumber can cause reactions that produce low-quality
lumber.

Roller Check – Roller check occurs when a cupped board is mechanically flattened
between roller planes. A light roller check is up to 2’ long, a medium roller check is
between 2’ and 4’ long and heavy roller check is more than 4’ long.

Skip – Skip is referred to as any area where the planer missed the surface, leaving it
roughed up. Skip is caused when the width or thickness of a piece is too small for
the planer to remove all the rough surfaces.

Machine Burn – Machine burn is the visible darkening of wood due to the
overheating of the knives, usually because they are too dull. This defect can usually
be removed by sanding.