Pre-engineered Building Materials

Exterior

Light Corrugated Metal Sheeting

Light corrugated metal shits are usually used as a
cladding for external walls or for roofing. These steel
sheets, barely 0.5mm thick, are coated with an
aluminum-zinc alloy for corrosion protection on both
sides, and come with an attractive, durable paint finish
on the outside. These sheets are installed over a grid
of purlins, a steel member that rests on the main
structural frame and supports the roofing material. In
pre-engineered buildings, cold formed Z sections are the
member of choice for purlins. 

Installation:
Before installing the sheets, contractors will install layers of insulation and vapor barriers. Rolls
of glass wool or mineral wool are the most common type of insulation for such buildings. Since
there is no inner wall over which to fix these layers, a layer of galvanized chicken wire mesh is
first laid over the purlins. Over this, the insulation and vapor barriers are laid, and then the
corrugated sheets are laid. The sheets are fixed with self tapping screws that run through the
sheets and layers of insulation directly into the purlins. The purlins, chicken mesh and insulation
are thus visible from below, and can be left as such or covered with a false ceiling. Polycarbonate
skylights can be installed in the roof sheeting to create natural lighting.

Rigid Steel Frame

Rigid frame buildings are known for their load-resisting structures, consisting of straight or
curved members interconnected with mostly rigid connections. As a result of these connectors,
the rigid steel building structure can resist movement and have an improved overall stable design.
The Structural Support System of a Pre-engineered steel building is divided into 3 main parts:

 The primary support system

 The secondary support system and,
 The bracing system
These 3 structural systems are engineered to absorb the loads and forces that are acting on the
building and they transfer those loads into the foundation system.
Rigid Frames and Endwall Frames are laid out in a carefully engineered pattern to provide the
primary support for the building. The distances between the centerline of each of the frames is
called a Bay.  Bay Spacing is an important factor in determining the design of your structure. The
required width of each bay is something that customers should consider because it will have an
effect on where you are able to place windows, service doors, and larger garage, overhead and bi-
fold doors along the sidewalls of your steel building.
Rigid Frame Support
The rigid frame is the most used frame in pre-engineered Steel Building Systems, and so it stands
to reason that it is responsible for why we identify this as a Rigid Frame Pre-Engineered Steel
Building.
A Rigid Frame is designed to bear the load for half the bay of the roof on either side of its
location.
Clear Span Rigid Frames
By far the most frequently used primary framing in a Pre-Engineered Steel building is the Clear-
Span Rigid Frame. We call these frames “Clear-Span” simply because they have no interior
columns or support between the exterior columns.
The typical Rigid Frame on a steel building has
tapered vertical columns and a tapered rafter. These
are the I Beams of the steel building – meaning that if
you took a cross-section through either a column or
rafter section, you would have an I-shape.

Insulated Wall Panel

Insulated metal panels (IMPs) are exterior wall and roof
panels with steel skins and an insulating foam core.
Insulated metal panels are known for their superior thermal
properties, design flexibility and fast installation time.
Insulated metal panels are weather-tight and provide a
strong thermal and moisture barrier.
These are engineered panel joints provide protection from
wind, rain and moisture and allow aesthetic integration of a
multitude of profile types. They are available in a wide
array of textures and finishes to match any project.
Installation guide:
1. Structural Framing
To prevent structural and aesthetic issues with the finished product, framing needs to be
within the IMP manufacturers' design criteria. Because factory insulated metal panels are
strong and rigid, the MCA Selection Guide says the structure they attach to must be held to a
 closer tolerance than that required for some other systems.  Additionally, it says the
alignment of supports is especially important with the most commonly used back seal or
liner-side seal systems where the support alignment establishes the final alignment of the
wall.
The Metl-Span Installation Guide also notes that the structural framing should be properly
designed to accept the erection and design loads as imposed by the wall panels. And, the
location of the interior and/or exterior panel joint and perimeter seals should be properly
specified for the project's moisture an vapor control requirements.
2. Cutting Panels
To cut IMPs, installers should always wear safety glasses, gloves and long-sleeved shirts. The
Metl-Span Installation Guide recommends using either a circular saw with carbide-tipped,
metal-cutting blade, an insulated metal panel saw or a band saw with metal-cutting blade.
3. Panel Caulking and Sealants
Before lifting the IMP panels into place, Harrell says wall panel sealants should be applied in
the panel joints in the field. Sealants are non-exposed, non-skinning butyl contained within
the wall and roof panel joint. a common technique is the liner side seal network, which
involves field applying non-skinning butyl sealant on the structural steel at panel ends and
connecting them to either shop- or field-applied sealant located in the panel side joint. This
results with each panel having a complete perimeter of butyl sealant on the liner side, which
creates an excellent vapor barrier. At transition areas, such as corners or wall-to-soffit edges,
proper liner trim is needed to maintain the liner seal continuity.
4. Lifting and Installing Panels
Panels are lifted into place with suction lifting equipment or other industry standard methods.
When standing longer IMP's without a suction lifter, IMPs are turned on edge and then lifted
from the bundles to eliminate over-flexing the IMPs and potentially causing damage.
5. Fasteners
To achieve the published load values, the MCA Selection Guide advocates using fasteners
and clips as recommended by the panel manufacturer. Both should be installed in accordance
with the manufacturer's instructions, as verified by the structural calculations. Make sure not
to overdrive or underdrive the fasteners, as it could result in leakage.
6. Cleaning Panels
After installation, panel surfaces should be wiped with a wet, soft cloth to maximize the
performance of the coatings while removing all dirt, oil, grease or other contaminants. To
remove superficial oxidation and tough stains, AWIP recommends using a regular household
cleaner followed by a thorough rinsing. If touch-up paint is required, contract the panel
manufacturer to obtain touch-up paint or a paint chip for color matching.

Interior
Suspended Acoustic Tile

Acoustic Ceiling Tiles (ACT) a stick-built grid system. Sometimes called a lay-in ceiling, this
type of system is versatile, durable, and cost effective. In addition, the ceiling tiles can be
removed without damage to the system so that above ceiling items can be maintained. Seen
throughout many commercial and institutional buildings.
Suspended Acoustic Ceiling Components
The diagram below identifies the major components of a suspended lay-in ceiling. The
continuous main beam T shapes are suspended
from the structure above by hanger wires. Shorter cross T segments connect to the main beam T
shapes to make a rigid frame. Edge molding shapes are attached to the walls around the perimeter
of the room. Finally, ceiling tiles are dropped into the grid to finish the ceiling.
Ceiling Grid T Shapes
The most used T shapes are 15/16" wide; however, 9/16"
wide T shapes are becoming more common. Suspended
ceiling manufacturers also make a variety of shapes that
offer aesthetic options to the designer. A stepped T shape is
often used with tegular tiles to provide a ceiling with more
depth. A reveal T shape provides a notch along the length of
the grid that makes the T shapes recede more than a typical T
shape.
There are two common edge moldings used to terminate a ceiling
grid at a wall. The standard shape is the Angle Molding. Also
available is a Shadow Molding, which creates a shadow line along
the edge of the room. Manufacturers also provide their own series
of edge molding shapes.
   

Ceiling Tile Materials and Design

Ceiling tiles come in an infinite variety of textures and designs. Most ceiling tiles are made from
mineral fiber, but other materials are available, such as fiberglass. Mineral fiber tiles typically
have a high Noise Reduction Coefficient (NRC), which means they are good at absorbing sound
within a space to prevent echo or loud environments. While some tiles have a high Ceiling
Attenuation Class (CAC), meaning they prevent sound from passing through the ceiling to
another space, acoustic ceiling tiles are generally not used to provide privacy between spaces.
In addition to tile material, there are a wide variety of designs available. Tiles may have a rough
appearance or a smooth appearance. Tiles may also have designs imprinted in them or other
patterns scored into the tile.

Installation:
STEP 1: Draw a Room Scale
Draw the exact dimensions of the room to scale on graph paper. Choose from either a 2' x 2' or a
2' x 4' pattern. The pattern size will determine the material requirements for the ceiling. For the 2'
x 4' pattern, install the patterns in a standard or reverse pattern. Each pattern offers a different
appearance. It is important to space the cross tees so the border panels at the ends of the room are
equal and as large as possible.
STEP 2: Choose the Lighting Location
If the ceiling will be recessed and built-in lighting will be installed, decide where to locate the
panels of light and clearly identify them on the drawing.Determine the exact height at which the
suspended ceiling will be installed. Allow a minimum of 3 to 4 inches for clearance between the
old ceiling and the new ceiling. Keep in mind that additional clearance will be required if
recessed lighting is being used.
STEP 3: Attach Wall Angles
After locating the exact position for the suspended ceiling, use a level to draw a line completely
around the room indicating where the wall angle will be applied. Don't assume the original
ceiling is level.Fasten the wall angles securely at all points. Nail them to studs or use screw
anchors or other fasteners on brick or masonry walls. Position the wall angle so that the bottom
flange rests on the level line you have drawn on the wall. Overlap the wall angle on inside corners
and miter the wall angle on outside corners. Make a temporary wooden miter box if you don't
have one. Cut any needed angles with metal cutting snips or a hacksaw.
STEP 4: Install Wiring
If recessed lights are being installed, place the wiring before putting the suspension wires in
place. For recessed lighting, use either 2" x 2" or 2" x 4" drop-in lighting fixtures, which are
specially designed for this purpose. Fluorescent light fixtures can also be centered over the panels
and a luminous lay-in panel can be used instead of a regular ceiling panel.
STEP 5: Attach Suspension Wires
Main tees should always run at right angles to the joists in the room. Locate the position of each
main tee by stretching a tight line from the top edge of the wall angle on all sides of the room at
each position where the main tees are to be placed.
Now, cut the suspension wires to the proper length. The wires should be 12 inches longer than the
distance between the old ceiling and the new guideline string. Locate the first suspension wire for
each main tee directly above the point where the first cross tee meets the main tee. Check the
original sketch of the room to determine this location. Be sure the suspension wires are securely
fastened. Apply them to the ceiling with screw eyes, screw hooks, nails, or by drilling. Attach a
suspension wire every 4 feet along the level guideline. Stretch each wire to remove any kinks and
make a 90-degree bend where the suspension wire crosses the level line.
STEP 6: Splice the Main Tees
Refer to the layout sheet to determine the distance from the wall to the first cross tee. Measure
this distance along the top flange of the main tee and locate the slot just beyond this point. From
this slot, measure back the same distance, subtract 1/8" and saw the main tee at that point. The
1/8" subtraction is for the thickness of the wall angle. If the wall angles are not square, position
the cross-tee slots accordingly. When main tees are installed in rooms less than 12 feet across, cut
the main tee to the exact measurement of the room, allowing 1/8" for the thickness of the wall
angle. For rooms wider than 12 feet, the main tee can be spliced. Be sure to align the splice so
that the suspension wires are correctly positioned. Splice carefully, or all the main tees will be
thrown off.
STEP 7: Install the Main and Cross Tees
Install the main tees so that they are all level with the wall angle already mounted. Use a long
level for this. Install the cross tees by inserting the ends of the cross tees into the slots in the main
tees. Use the manufacturer's instructions for fitting the cross tees into position. Determine the
location of the cross tees by the pattern selected
STEP 8: Place the Ceiling Panels
Drop the ceiling panels into position by tilting them slightly, lifting them above the framework
and letting them fall into place.

Brick Veneer Cladding

A type of siding we put on a wall, which is made of rather thin brick parts. In contrast to
traditional bricks, a veneer is not a building material, and it can be installed even well after the
whole house is completed. It needs to be attached to some other surface, and usually, it is a timber
and steel frame or insulated concrete block. During the installation, it is essential to include an air
cavity that is placed between the wall and the veneer. That space is crucial for insulation purposes
because it can then be filled with insulation material and keep the moisture out of the building.

Brickwork may be supported at each floor by the edge

beams in steel frames. These attachments are in the form
of stainless steel brackets that are connected to steel plates
welded to the edge beams. The brackets are placed at 400 or
600mm spacing along the edge beam, depending on the wall
height of 2.8 to 4m (and hence its weight), and allow for
adjustments on site to align with the brick coursing. The
projecting stainless steel angle fits into the mortar joint. The
detail shows the typical build-up of materials at an edge
beam to achieve a high level of thermal insulation.
Steps on how to install brick veneers:
Step 1.    
Remove any decorative trim such as crown molding, window and door trim, or mantel pieces, as
well as any paneling from the wall.
Step 2.    
Starting at the bottom of your surface, use a measuring tape and a pencil to mark horizontal lines
2-7/8 inches apart. This width will accommodate the brick veneer plus 3/8- inch of grout, and the
lines will help you place the brick veneer pieces in straight rows.
Step 3.    
Determine how many and what size edge pieces you will need, and cut them to size using a tile
cutter or a wet saw.
Step 4.    
Spread a layer of wall adhesive on the wall between the floor and the first guideline you drew.
Covering only a row at a time helps ensure you can lay the veneer before the wall adhesive skins
over (drying on surface), which is usually around 10 minutes.
Step 5.    
Press the veneer pieces into the wall adhesive, starting at the bottom corner and leaving 3/8- inch
between them. To increase initial tack, use the following venting method: after pressing each
piece into place, pull it away and wait one to three minutes. Then press it back into place. If the
pieces still slip, use tape to brace them.
Step 6.    
After finishing the bottom row, apply wall adhesive for the next row up and lay the veneer so that
the midpoints of the pieces line up with the seams of the row below them. We recommend you
use 3/8-inch spacers between the pieces. Continue this process until all the veneer pieces are
used.
Step 7.    
Allow the wall adhesive to dry for at least 24 hours.
Step 8.    
Use a pointed trowel to apply grout between the veneer pieces. Sanded tile grout looks most like
mortar. Smooth the grout and eliminate air pockets with a grout float. As you go, use a damp
sponge to wipe off any grout that gets on the face of the veneer pieces. Allow the grout to dry
completely.

Acoustic Mesh Panels

Are interior aluminum-based panels designed to

improve poor workplace and commercial acoustic
environments. The panels incorporate a sag-free, one-
inch-thick honeycomb support plate, layered with an
intermediate blanket of fiber-free acoustic fleece to
dampen noise. Lights, downlights, and sprinklers can
be easily integrated. The panels can also be removed
and refitted quickly for maintenance purposes. They
are made from a proprietary composite of aluminum with a sag-free, one-inch thick honeycomb
support plate layered with an intermediate blanket of fiber-free acoustic fleece. The metal fabric
panels achieve an NRC value of .9 (SAA = .92) making them almost silent. They could be
applied on walls, ceilings, interior and partitions.

Installation:
You have two main methods to choose from for
successful soundproof panel installation — the
soundproof adhesive method and the Z-clip system
method. Both can provide great results, so choose the
one that best meets your needs and works for your
unique situation.

Soundproof Adhesive Method

1. Sand: Your first step is to sand the surface on which you’ll be mounting your acoustic
panel. This evens the surface to prepare it to accept the adhesive’s bonding power. Any
high-grit sandpaper will do. After sanding, be sure to clean any dust and debris.
2. Level: Use a straight-edge level and a pencil to mark the area where you’ll be placing
your panel. Doing this will ensure your panels are straight after you hang them.
3. Screw: Next, you’ll screw the included leveling brackets onto the mounting surface. This
will help your panels lay the correct way on the wall when you install them.
4. Apply: Apply adhesive to the back of the acoustic panel. Start by adding a line of
adhesive to the perimeter of the panel about two inches from the edge. Then make an “X”
with the adhesive to divide the rectangle into four equal sections. Put a 2- to 4-inch circle
of adhesive in each of these sections.
5. Install: The final step is to put the panel onto the wall and allow about a day for the
adhesive to cure.

Z-Clip Method
The Z-clip method is an easy and fast way to install acoustic panels. But it also involves the use
of power tools and is a bit more intrusive to your home or studio’s walls. If you want to rearrange
your panels in the future, then this method might be for you. Here’s the step-by-step process for
installing acoustic panels with the Z-clip method:
1. Level: Make sure you hang the Z-clip level by using a straight-edge level and pencil to
mark the location where you’ll install the Z-clip. You can even make small marks in the
screw holes to know where the screws will end up.
2. Attach: Attach the Z-clips to the mounting surface. Line it up with your existing marks
and use a screw gun and screws to attach it.
3. Clip: Clip the panel onto the Z-clip to hold the panel securely in place.
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