MODULE 2

SET UP AND OPERATE MACHINE/S

Introduction:
Learning Outcomes:

After carefully reading the module and performing the activities, you
should be able to:
1. Identify the types of sewing machine
2. Identify the parts and functions of the sewing machine

Pre-Test:

Learning Content:

Words to study
 Altering –changing portion of a garment so that it fits the body.
 Recycling –passing again through a cycle of changes or treatment.
 Reinforcing–strengthening with additional support.
 Repairing – restoring to good condition.
Sewing Equipment
A sewing machine is an equipment which is very important in any sewing
activity, whether be it repairing, altering clothes or recycling household articles. It
makes sewing easier and faster.

1. Lockstitch Sewing Machine. This is usually used in homes and sometimes

in school. This is also called “Domestic Sewing Machine”. It is run by foot and
may also be converted to electric power machine.

2. Hi-Speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine. This is sometimes called „straight

stitching machine” or industrial sewing machine. It has automatic lubrication
and is used by tailors and dressmakers.
3. Over Edging Machine. Other companies call it “small machine”. It finishes
the raw edges of the pattern for construction.

4. Embroidery Machine. This is used in making fancy stitches and in making

different kinds of embroidery stitches on fabrics for the Barong Tagalog,
pillow cases, linen, and other novelty items.

5. Button Holer Machine. This is used in attaching buttons to the garments.

6. Double Needle Machine. This is used in the construction of the different

kinds of clothing especially for the inseam, out seam and side seam.

7. Bartacking Machine. This is used in reinforcing the opening and closing of

pockets and plackets of garments.

Two Major Parts of the LockstitchSewing Machine

The two major parts of the lock stitch sewing machine are the upper and lower
parts.

The Upper Parts is composed of:

1. Head is the complete sewing machine without a cabinet or stand.
2. Arm is the curve part of the head containing mechanism for operating the
needle.
3. Bed is the flat portion of the machine and beneath is the feed dog where it is
mounted, and the shuttle and lower thread are placed.
Parts of the Sewing Machine in the Arm
1. Spool Pin is the thread holder.
2. Thread Guide keeps the thread in position.
3. Thread Take up Lever releases the thread and interlocks with the bobbin
thread.
4. Presser bar lifter moves the presser foot high
5. Tension controls the looseness and tightness of stitches.
6. Needle Bar holds the needle in place.
7. Needle Clamp holds and tightens the needle.
8. Presser Foot holds the fabric in place while sewing.
9. Needle is a slender tool attached in the needle clamp used for sewing.
10. Bobbin Winder controls the bobbin while winding thread.
11. Stitch regulator checks the length of the stitches.
12. Balance Wheel sets the mechanism in motion.
13. Belt connects the balance wheel to the drive wheel.
14. Stop Motion Screw hinders moving when loosened and starts moving when
tightened. 1 11 6 7 8 9 2 10

Parts of Sewing Machine under the Bed

1. Feed Dog moves the fabric while sewing.
2. Throat plate is the windows of the feed dog and it is where the bobbin threads
come out.
3. Slide plate is a movable plate that covers the shuttle and bobbin case.
4. Shuttle holds the bobbin case while sewing.
5. Bobbin is a metal spool for winding thread.
6. Bobbin Case holds the bobbin

The Lower Parts of the Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

The lower parts of the sewing machine are the cabinet and the stand. The
cabinet has drawers and screw on the hinges for the attachment of the head. The
following are the lower parts of the sewing machine and their uses:
1. Band Wheel leads the balance wheel through the belt connection.
2. Band Wheel Crank moves the band wheel.
3. Pitman Rod holds the treadle to band wheel crank.
4. Belt Guide holds the belt to its place.
5. Belt Shifter removes the belt from the wheel.
6. Dress Guard protects the dress from the wheel.
7. Treadle is where the feet are stationed to drive the band wheel through the
pitman rod.
8. Legs support the cabinet of the machine.
9. Cabinet holds the head of the machine by interlocking screw on the hinges.

Sewing Machine Needles and Threads

Sewing machine needles are graded according to diameter and length. In
the system of sewing machine needle sizes, the needles for the 96-87 machine
are of a class and variety known as 16 x 231 and are furnished in sizes 14, 16,
17, 18, 19, 21, 22, and 23. For example, a needle for this machine would be
specified as nos. 18, 16, x 231. Needles for the 31 -15 machines are of a class
and variety known as 16 x 87. These needles are furnished in sizes 14, 16, 17,
18, 19, 21, 22, and 23. The size of a needle is shown by a number stamped on
its shank. The low numbers indicate needles of small diameters, while the higher
numbers indicate larger sizes. In machine stitching, the thread must pass freely
through the eye of the needle. If the needle is too small, the thread will pull
through the eye with difficulty and interfere with successful operation of the
machine. On the other hand, if the needle is too coarse it will leave holes in the
material. Therefore, the needle size depends upon the size of thread to be used.

Parts and Functions of a Sewing Machine Needle

1. Butt - absorbs the pressure of the needle bar
2. Shank-provides stability to the needle blades and to its part when inserted
3. Shoulder-supports the blade and shank
4. Blade-the thinnest part of the sewing machine needle that always counters the
friction while sewing
5. Long Groove-the point where the shuttle hooks and the needle meet
6. Eye-it is where the thread is inserted.
7. Short Groove-the part of the needle blade
8. Point/Tip-it cuts the fiber of the material

Setting of Sewing Machines

Perfect machine stitching is easy to achieve if you set the machine
properly. This involves threading the upper and lower parts of the sewing
machine. The beginner in garment making must learn how to thread the head of
the sewing machine as one of the first steps in becoming a competent operator.
It is just as important to master the operation of threading a needle for hand
sewing. Now, are you ready to become a competent operator?
Threading the Machine
Each part of the threading mechanism on the head of a sewing machine
has a definite purpose in guiding the thread from the spool to the needle. The
thread must pass through the various guides in a given order so that the machine
will sew properly the formed stitches.
A. Order of threading in the upper part:
1. Spool Pin
2. Upper thread guide
3. Between metal disc of tension
4. Thread take up lever
5. Lower thread guide
 6. Needle
Steps:
1. Put the spool of thread on the spool pin.
2. Bring the thread to the thread guide.
3. Pull the thread between the metal disc of the tension.
4. Bring the thread up to the thread take up lever and raise it as it goes.
5. Pull the thread down to the thread guide.
6. Pull it through the lower thread guide.
7. Thread the needle.
B. Threading the lower part of lockstitch sewing machine
Steps:
1. Remove the bobbin case by pulling on the bobbin case latch.
2. Remove the bobbin from the case and wind the thread.
3. Put the bobbin back to the bobbin case and pull the thread through the
little slot at least 4 inches.
4. Be sure that you hear the case inside the shuttle.
5. Start the mechanism by rolling the balance wheel forward to get the
thread of the bobbin through the needle.
6. Pull the upper and lower thread together by 4 inches

Removing the Bobbin and Bobbin Case

It is often necessary to remove a bobbin to either refill or replace it. Here
are the steps in removing the bobbin and bobbin case:
1. Turn the balance wheel toward you with the right hand until the needle
has moved to its highest point.
2. Open the slide in the bed of the machine part way until the bobbin case
is visible.
3. Reach under the bed of the machine and open the bobbin case latch
with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand.
Caution: Keep feet off the treadle.
Note: The latch on the bobbin case for the machine opens to the left
at A to the right on the bobbin case for the machine.
4. Remove the bobbin case from the center stud with the latch held in
the open position.
Note: The bobbin will be held in the bobbin case while the latch is
open.
5. Remove the bobbin from the case by releasing the latch and turning
the open end of the case downward to allow the bobbin to drop out.
6. Place the bobbin case in machine drawer until you are ready to thread
it.
Note: Each bobbin case is adjusted to the machine on which it is
used. Avoid using bobbin cases from other machines.

How to Wind the Bobbin

Make sure that the bobbin fit the bobbin case of the machine you
are using.
1. Loosen the stop motion screw by turning it toward you. This
stops the needle from moving.
2. Put the spool of thread on the spool pin. Let it pass through the
first thread guide and the bobbin winder thread guide.
3. Wind the end of the thread a little around the bobbin toward
you, lift the bobbin winder latch and press the bobbin through its spindle.
4. Release the latch and press the bobbin winder against the
balance wheel.
5. Run the machine until the bobbin is full. In some models, the
bobbin winder automatically stops when the bobbin is sufficiently wound.
6. Lift the latch. Remove the bobbin and release the latch. Cut off
the thread from the spool. Allow 10 cm. (4 in.) of dangling thread.
 Learning Activities

1. Search one sewing machine. Identify and label the parts.

Assessment

Quiz
Reference
Francisco, Chic R. Complete Step-by-Step Guide in Fashion Designing,
Copyright 1992, Golden Ideas Publishing Home Inc.
Hilario, Carmelita B., Clothing Technology Made Easy, Publisher National Book
Store Printed 24k Printing Corp.,
Valenzuela City Rojo, Duran, et. Al. Practical THE, Home Economics III and IV,
Phillipine, Adriana Publishing
Complete Guide to Sewing. Reader‟s Digest. U.S.A. The Reader‟s Digest
Association, Inc., 1976.
De Cosse, Cy. et al. Singer (Sewing Update). U.S.A. Contemporary Book Inc.,
1988.
De Guzman, Ines A. Technology and Home Economics (First Year). Manila.
Saint Bernadette Publications, Inc.,1993.
Hilario, Carmelita B. Clothing Technology (Made Easy). Valenzuela City. 24k
Printing Co., Inc., 2001.
http//www. Ballentynes Fashion [email protected]
http//www. Jando.fabrics.co

Rubric

Answer Key

Pre Test
Assessment