ILLUSTRATED INDEX

1
 1

JUNIOR'S, MISSES' AND WOMEN Page 1

(Revised Edition]

THE 'BODY* MEASUREMENTS, listed below, have been

compiled in accordance with those used in the r.eady-
to-near trade.

THE "UPLIFT BRA' brought about a slight Increase

in the bust clrcimference measurement (approximately
2") for all sizes (Fig. A).

THE WIDTH ACROSS BACK has about 3/4' to I' ease al-
lowance for free arm movement (Fig. B). The shoul-
ders are correspondingly broader, and require pads.

THE PREVAILING GIRDLES have lowered the back waist-

line si ightly, therefore the back waist length mea-
surements have been increased accordingly.
«aOo
To draft the dress bodice, see pages 2 and 3, and to
draft the dress sleeve, see page 4.
The measurements given on those pages include ease
allowance around bust, waistline, arm, elbow and
Flo. A wri St. Fig. B

BODY MEASUREMENT CHART

JUNIOR SIZES MISSES' SIZES WOMEN'S SIZES
SIZES 1 1 13 15 17 12 14 : 16 18 20 40 42 44 46
1 BUST CIRCUMFERENCE 31 33 36 37 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
2 WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE 23 25 M 28 30 32 34 36 38 40
3 HiP CIRCUMFERENCE 33 35 37 39 36 3B 40 42 44 48 48 60
4 BACK SHOUIDER HEIGHT 15-3/4 1616-1/4 16-1/2 6-3/4 17 17-1/4 17-1/2 17-3/4 17-7/8 18 IB- 1/8 18-1/4
5 CENTER BACK LENGTH 15 15-1/4 15-1/2 15-3/4 16 16-1/4 16-1/2 16-3/4 17 17-1/8 17-1/4 17-3/B 17-1/2
6 SHOULDER SEAM 4-7/8 5 5-1/8 5-1/4 5 5-1/8 5-1/4 5-3/8 5-1/2 5-5/8 5-3/4 5-7/8 6
7 ACROSS BACK 13-1/2 14 14-1/2 15 14 14-1/2 15 16-1/2 16 16-1/2 17 1
7- 12 18
8 SIDE SEAM LENGTH 7-1/8 7-1/4 7-3/8 7-1/2 7-3/4 7-7/8 8 8-l/B 8-1/4 a- 1/4 8-1/4 8-1/4 B-1/4
9 FRONT SHOULDER HEIGHT 16 16-1/4 16-1/2 16-7/8 1 7-3/8 1 7-3/4 18 18-1/4 18-5/8 18-7/8 19-1/4 19-6/8 20
10 CENTER FRONT LENGTH 13-1/2 13-3/4 14 14-1/4 1 4-3/4 15 15-1/4 15-1/2 15-3/4 16 16-1/4 16-1/2 16-3/4
U ACROSS CHEST 12-1/2 13 13-1/2 14 13 13-1/2 14 14-1/2 15 15-1/2 16 16-1/2 17

12 OVERARM LENGTH 22-1/4 22-5/a 23 23-3/8 23 23-3/8 23-3/4 24- /8 24-1/2 1

24-6/8 24-3/4 24-7/8 25
13 UNDERARM LENGTH 16-3/4 17 17-1/4 17-1/2 17-1/4 17-1/2 17-3/4 18 18-1/4 18-1/4 18-1/4 18-1/4 18-1/4
14 ARM CIRCUMFERENCE 9-3/4 10-1/4 10-3/4 1
1- 1/4 10 10-1/2 1 1 1 1-1/2 12 12-5/8 13-1/4 13-7/8 14-1/2
15 ELBOW CIRCUMFERENCE 9-1/4 9-3/4 10-1/4 10-3/4 9-1/2 10 10-1/2 1 1 II- 1/2 12-1/8 12-3/4 13-3/8 14

16 WRIST CIRCUMFERENCE 6-1/8 6-3/8 6-5/8 6-7/8 6-1/4 6-1/2 6-3/4 7 7-1/4 7-1/2 7-3/4 8 8-1/4

HOW TO TAKE HE A S UBE HEN TS

 . 1 4

Page 2 JUNIOB'S, MISSES' AND WOMEN'S

{Re vised Edition)

The Illustrations above show

bust measurement taken around
body over bra (fig. i)
dress form (fig. xi)
dress or blouse (ftg. iii)

All 3fiflures represent size I6.

yet it Is important to note that
for chest expansion allowance,
the dress form (figure iiO mea-
sures 2' more around bust than
on figure i,and that the dress
or blouse (figure m
) measures

about 4' more than figure i for

Sketches above show where each
measure Is taken on the figure.
ease and free arm movenient.
Therefore, the bust measure on 1
- Back Shoulder Height
si ze 16 s -i
2 ~ Across Back
36' on figure i, 3 - Shoulder Seam
38* on fiflure ii, 4 ~ Center Back Length
40* on figure iix. 5 - Bust Line
6 - Side Seam Length
The draft to the right provides 7 - Front. Shoulder Height
4' ease allowance around bust j
No seams are allowed 8 - Center Front Length
and I* ease around waistline. j
9 - Across Chest

1 SIZES 1 13 15 17 12 /'1 16 18 20
A to 8 - E0lial<^ HACK SHnill [IFfi HFIf^HT mtxacttr omant 15-3/4 16 16- 1/4 16-1/2 16-3/4 1 17 1 7- t /4 17-1/2 17-3/4
A to C — Equals 1/2 of ACROSS BACK measure plus 3/8' 7" /8 7~3/8 7-5/8 7-3/8
1 7-7/B 7-5/t 7-7/8 B- 1/8 8-3/B
C to D ~ Back shouldfir slope depth Spu&re 3t C 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
D to £ - Equals SHOULDER SEAM { 1/4* ease inc luded) 5- 1/8 5-1/4 6-3/8 5-1/2 5-1/4 5-3/E 5-1/2 5-5/8 5-3/4
B to F - Equals CENTER BACK LENGTH measurement. 15 15-1/4 15-1/2 15-3/4 16 .
16-1/2 16-3/4 17
£ to F - Curve a line for back of neck.
F to G - Equals half of B to F plus 3/4". 8-1/4 8-3/8 8-1/2 8-6/8 8-3/4 9 9-1/8 9-1/4
8-7/6S
G to H - Equals half of bust measurement Pius 2". 17-1/2 18-l/S 19-1/2 20-1/2 18 19 20 21 22
F to I " Equals about half of F to G. 4-1/8 4-1/8 4-1/4 4-1/4 4-3/8 4-3/3 4-1/2 4-1/2 4-5/8
r to J - Equals half of ACROSS BACK measurement. 6-3/4 7 7-1/4 7-1/2 7 7-1/4 7-1/2 7-3/4 8
G to M - Equals half ofG to H less 1/4'. 8-1/2 9 9-1/2 10 8-3/4 9-1/4 9-3/4 10-1/4 10-3/4
G to K - Equals line 1to J. Then connect J to K. 6-3/4 7 7-1/4 7-1/2 7 7-1/4 7-1/2 7-3/4 8
K to L - Draw diaoonal line at '45° angle. 1 1-1/8 1-1/8 1-1/4 1-1/8 1-1/4 1-1/4 1-3/8
D to M ' Curve armhole line from 0 to J to L to M.
A to N -
N to 0 -
Equals bust line G to H.
Equals FRONT SIWULDER HEIGHT plus 2'.
17-1/2
18
18-1/2 19-1/2 20-1/2
18-1/4 18-1/2 18-7/8
18
19-3/8 J 9-3/4;
hd 20
20
21 22
20-1/4 20-5/8
0 to P - Equals FRONT SHOULDER HEIGHT measurement. 16 16-1/4 16-1/2 16-7/8 17-3/8 7-3/4; '1
IB 18- 1/4 IB-5/e
P to Q - Equals 1/2 of ACROSS CHEST .tneasure.plus 3/8'. 6-5/8 6-7/8 7-1/8 7-3/8 6-7/& ;7-i/tf 7-3/8 7-5/8 7-7/8
0 to R - Front shoulder slope depth. Square at Q. 1-1/4 1-1/4 1-1/4 1-1/4 -1/4 1-1/4! ; l-i/4 1-1/4 1-1/4
R to S - Equals SHOULDER SEAM measurement. 4-7/8 5 5-1/6 6-1/4 5 ,
5-1/* 5-1/4 5-3/8 5-1/2
0 to T - Equals CENTER FRONT LENGTH measurement. 13-1/2 13-3/4 14 14-1/4 14-3/4 i 15 15-1/4 15-1/2 15-3/4
P to U - Equals P to S plus 1/2'. Draw line 45''angle. 2-1/4 2-3/8 2-3/8 2-1/2 2-3/8 ! 2-3/6i' 2-1/2 2-1/2 2-5/8
S to T - Curve neck line from S to U to T.
T to V - Eouals about half of T to H. !!-iy4 2-3/8 2-3/8 2-1/2 2-3/8 i
2-3/8' 2-1/2 2-1/2 2-5/8
y to * - equals half of ACROSS CHEST measurement. 6-1/4 6-1/2 6-3/4 7 6-1/2 6-3/4; 7 7-1/4 7-1/2
H to X - Equals line V to ft. Then connect W to X. 6-1/4 6-1/2 6-3/4 7 6-1/2 6-3/4: 7 7-1/4 7-1/2
X to Y - Draw diaqonai line at 45" anqie. 3/4 7/8 7/8 1 7/8 7/8 ! 1 1 1-1/8
R to M - Curve armhole line from R to ft to Y to M.
H to Z - The distance between bust and brrast ine.1
2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
j

Z to AA - Equals H to M plus 3/8". Square at Z. 9-3/8 9-7/8 10-3/8 10-7/8 9-5/8 0-!/d 10-6/8 1
1-1/8 11-5/8
M to BB - Equals SIDE SEAM LENGTH (through point AA). 7-1/8 7-1/4 7-3/8 7-1/2 7-3/4 7-7/6: 8 6- /8
1 8-1/4
G to CC - Equals half of 1 to J. 3-3/8 3-1/2 3-5/8 3-3/4 3-1/2 3-5/8, 3-3/4 3-7/8 4
B to DD - Equals G to CC less 3/4'. 2-5/8 2-3/4 2-7/8 3 2-3/4 2-7/81 3 3-1/8 3-1/4
DO to EE- l-l/2'ithen connect DO toCC to EE for dart. 1-1/2 1-1/2 1-1/2 1-1/2 1-1/2 1-1/2! 1-1/2 1-1/2 1-1/2
Z to FF - Equals half of V to W plus 1/2'. 3-5/8 3-3/4 3-7/8 4 3-3/4 3-7/8; 4 4-1/8 4-1/4
0 to GG - Equals Z to FF less 3/4'. 2-7/8 3 3-1/8 3-1/4 3 3-1/8; 3-1/4 3-3/8 3-1/2
GG to HH- 2-l/8':then connect from HH to BB to EE. 2-1/8 2-1/8 2-1/8 2-1/8 2-1/8 2-1/8' 2-1/8 2-1/8 2-1/8
HK to 11- 2- 1/8'; then connect GG to FF to II for dart. 2-1/6 2-1/8 1 2-1/8 2-1/8 2-1/8 2-1/8 2-1/8 2-1/8 2-1/6
 .

JUNIOR'S, HISSES' AND WOMEN'S Page 3

(Revised Edition)

STYLE 1
Side and waist darts for
smoother fit over the bust.
Using the dress bodice
front, make a side dart in
pattei-n as fol lows:

z and XI
Slash along dotted line (A to B) then spread and ;
make the waist dart 2* wide at waistline as shown
in diagram n.

Draw V-shaped lines for each dart 12' away from

pivoting point 6) as shown by dotted '

Ines.
and IV Ill
Using the dress bodice back, shorten waist dai't \*

STYLE 2
The tucks at waistline
give the bodice a softer
effect below the bust thiin
with dart fitting.

I and II
Trace bodice front of Stvie I; then replace the
waist dart by making 2 tucks, 2' high, and drawing
the 4 lines |* apart, parallel to center front.
HI and IV
Repeat process for making the 2 tucks In back:then
add 1/2' toside seam at waisti ine as shown by dotted
I ines.

STYLE 3
Sleeveless dress bod ice
with scooped neckline.
A sleeveless dress is usual-
ly closer f tting (about

r
i

2*} around bust.

The depth of the armhole
is raised about 3/4'

(Front) and iii (Back)

I
Lower the neckl ine, raise the armhole, and reduce the
width at top of si de seam as shown by dotted nes. 1 i

II (Front) and iv (Back)

Reduce i/4' at center front and back neckline to
nothing at waistline. This will keep bodice froT,
standing away at lower part of neck.

DRESS FOUNDATION • UIP LENGTH

I - FRONT
Using the dress bodice front, make side and waist
darts asshown in style above, but when spreading
|

for side dart, make waist dart li" wide Instead of 2'.

Draft the hip length sections as follows:

A to B - 6-1/2' (waist to hipline).
B to C - Equals bustllne D to E. Square at B,
C to F - Connect.

II WAIST OART
-

6 to G - Eouats H to ; then connect from

I J to 6 to
K to ccnnplete the waist dart.
Lower the hipl Ine 1/4' at center front to nothing
at side seam.
HI - BACK
Use the dress bodice back to draft the hip section
as fol lows:
L to M - 7" (waist to hipline).
M to N - Equals bustllne 0 to P. Square at M.
N to 0 - Connect.
IV - y/arsT cm
M to R " Equals S to T at top of dart;then connect
from U to R to V to complete the waist dart.
 1 .

Page 4 JUNIOR'S, MISSES' AND

(Revised Edition)

The illustrations to the

left show howtotake the
necessary arm measure-
ments for drafting the
dress sleeve pattern.

For sleeve pattern mea-

JUNIOR SIZES MISSES' SIZES surements in junior and
misses si zes, see chart to
SIZE 1 13 15 17 r 12 14 16 18 20 the left. No seams are
al lowed.
1 OVERARM LENGTH 22- /4 22-5/8 23
1 23-3/a 23 23-3/8 23-3/4 24- /8 24-1/2 1

2 UNDERARM LENGTH 16-3/4 17 17-1/4 17-1/2 17-1/4 17-1/2 17-3/4 18 18-1/4 The measurements include
14-1/2
about 3' ease al lowance
3 ARM CIRCUMFERENCE 12-3/4 13-1/4 13-3/4 14-1/4 13 13-1/2 14 15
around arm (at muscle),
i ELBOW CIRCUMFERENCE 10-3/4 1-1/4 1-3/4 12-1/41 1 II 11-1/2 12 12-1/2 13 and the necessary ease
& WRIST CIRCUMFERENCE 7-1/8 7-3/8 7-5/8 7-7/8 7-1/4 7-1/2 7-3/4 8 8-1/4 around elbow and wrist.

1
nOV TO DRAFT THE DRESS SLEEVE
A I
t
A to 8 Equals OVERARM LENGTH measurement. Draw straight line
from A to B.
Equals UNDERARM LENGTH measurement. Mark point C on
1 fTTT rrfT^TftT.T'T ~ "*£ iine A-6 (A to C equals cap height or 1/3 of armhole
circumference. For example: tf armhole of bodice mea-
sures 19-1/2', cap height Is 6-1/2*}.
C to D Equals half of arm circumference measurement. Square
this line across at point C. ^ :*/<'/
Same amount as C to 0. Square across at C.

II
Equals hal f of B to point F C '
I

e bow
I I i ne pos 1 on
^ 1 i .

Eoua's half of elbow measurement. Square tliis

cross at poi nt F. "/ /

Same amount as F to G, Square across at F.

Ill

Ki--- — -ti M A -,L

III
Ki r-
I B to I
'
Equals E to G, less I". Square across at point B.
I
I
o,' B to J Same amount as B to I. Square across at point B.
I

I to K Draw line from to K through G and 0, bringing pointK

1

dI- Di- V -•'

to the level of point A.
I
N J to L Draw line from J to L through H and E«bringing point L
to the level of point A. Connect K to L.

IV. {Guide lines for sleeve cap)

-fH A to M Equals 1/4 of A to K.
D to N Equals t/4 of D to C. Connect M to N.
M to 0 Equals 1/2 of M to N. Mark point 0 on line M-N.
A to P Equals 1/4 of A to L.
E to 0 Equals 1/6 of E to.C. Connect P to 0-
P to R Equais 1/2 ol P to 0- Mark point R on line P-Q.

A to D - Draw curved cap line from A to D through Q for front of

sleeve cap as Indicated.
A to.E - Draw curved line from A to E through R for back of
sleeve cap.
I to S - Equals wrist measure. Mark point S on line l-J.
S to T - 3/4". Square a tine down at point S.
I to U - Equals half of to B. I

U to T - Connect; then draw curved line from T to I

T to H - Connect.

VI. tV-shaped elbow dart).

The back edge of sleeve, from E to H to T.is 1-1/4' longer than
front edge, from D to G to i. Make V-shaped dart I- 1/4 'wide and
3-1/2* long at elbow as indicated, making upper tine of dart,
parallel to elbow line.
 ) t

SUB-TEENS AND TEENS Pa^e 5

(KeTlsed Edition

The body msasurefflents listed below, have been revised and compiled
in accordance witli those used in the ready-to-wear trade.
1 SI It 12

fiB^ About
5 Feet, 3-
j
SIZES 8 19, - 12 14 10 12 14 „
1"
1 CENTER BACK LENGTH 13 13-1/4 13-5/8 14 .
4-1/4 14-1/2 14-7/8 15-1/4 from nape of neck to waistline
2 ACROSS BACK 12 12-1/2 13 13-1/2 12-1/2 13 13-1/2 14 froffl armhole to armhole

3 SHOOLOER SEAM 4-1/4 4-3/8 4-1/2 4-5/8 4-3/8 4-1/2 4-5/a 4-3/4 from side of neck to armhole
4 FULL BACK WIDTH 15-1/2 16-1/4 17 15-1/2 16-1/4 from side sea/n to side ssam
5 SIDE SEAM LENGTH 6- /2 1
6-5/8 6-3/4 7 7-1/3 7-1/4 7-3/8 7-5/8 —
—
to wajstline
6 BACK WAISTLINE 1 1 1
1- 1/2 12 12-1/2 ll-l/2[ 12 12-1/2 13-1/2 Yrom sl^d^"'^
' —
7 CENTER FRONT LENGTH 1 1-7/8 12-1/4 12-6/8 13 13- 1/8 13-1/2 13-7/8 14-1/4 from base of neck to waistline
8 ACROSS CHEST 1- 1/4 1-3/4 12-1/4 12-3/4 1-3/4 12-1/4 12-3/4 13-1/4 from armhole to armhole
9 FULL FRONT WIDTH
1

15-1/4
I

16 16-3/4 17-1/2
13-1/2
16 16-3/4 17-1/2 — from sifle seam to side seam
Iron S1G0 sGafTi to side seam
10 FRONT WAISTLINE 12 12-1/2 13 12- 1/2 13 ' 14 1/2

11 BUST CIRCUMFERENCE 27-1/2 29 30I/2' 32 29 30-1/2 32 34 body rneasur efT.en

11 BUST €1 RCUMFEBEKCE , 30 31-1/2 33 34-1/2 31-1/2 33 34-1/2 36-1/2 ease included for fitted bodice
12 WAIST CI RCUMftRtt.CE 23 24 ,
25 26 24 25 26 28 a fairly snug measurement
13 HIP CIRCUMFERENCE 29 3 i 33 35 3 33 35 37 at ful lest part of hio
14 i
NECK CIRCUMFERENCE 1
1-1/2 12 1^1/2 3- 1/8 12 12-1/2 13-1/8 13-3/4 at base of neck

15 I UNDERARiJ LENGTH 14- I/a 14-1/2 14-7/a 15-1/4 15-6/8 16 14-3/8 16-3/4 from armhole to wrist
16 ARM CIRCUMFERENCE a 9-1/2 10 10-1/2 9-1/2 ID 10-1/2 II at ful lest part of muscle
17 ELBOW CIRCUMFERENCE 9 9-1/2 10 10-1/2 9-1/2 10 10-1/2 1 1
wi th arm bent up
18 OVERARM LENGTH 19-1/2 20 20-1/2 21 21-1/2 22 22-1/2 from top of arm to rfrist
19
1
WRIST CIRCUMFERENCE a- 1/4 6-1/2 6-6/8 6-7/8 6-1/2 6-5/e 6-7/8 7 a loose measurement

20 STATURE (HEIGHT) 58-1/2 59-1/2 60-1/2 61-1/2 62-1/2 63-1/2 64-1/2 65-1/2 heiflht measurement
1

i1
HEAD HEIGHT 8-7/8 9 9-1 /a 9-1/4 9-3/a 9-1/2 9-5/a 9-3/4 from nape of neck to top of head
22 CERVICAL HEIGHT 48-5/8 49- /2 1 50-3/a 51-1/4 63-1/8 54 54-7/8 65-3/4 from nape of neck to floor
23 CROTCH DEPTH 1 i-i/e 11-1/4 11-1/2 11-5/8 1 1-7/8 12-1/8 12-1/4 12-1/2 1' ease al lowance included
SIDE LENGTH 36-3/4 37-1/4 37-3/4 38-1/4 38-7/8 39-1/2 40 40-1/2 from waist to floor
25 1
WAIST TO HIP 5-7/8 6 6-1/8 6-1/4 6-3/8 6-1/2 6-5/? &-3/4 at sid>! seaffl

Sketches below indicate v>here each DRAFT OF FITTED BODICE FOUNDATION

measurement Is taken on the figure.
When drafting the fitted bodice
Front and Back according to the
measurements above, use thestep-
by-step directions given In the
Drafting book, Page S, but make
the changes on the front draft
"If as fol lows:
6 to J - Equals half of B to £,
plus 1/2'.
R
J to 0 - Locate point 0, 2* be-
\° low point J,

Increase the width of Front and

Dart at waistline as follows:
L to S Saffle distance as L to M
on Back draft.
M N Q
R to T '
Same distance as L to S
on Front draft.

DRAFT OF FRONT Ullti SIDE DART

Make the side dart as follows:

Draw side dart line rom P to U; f

then slash from U to P and from
T to P, and spread I' at side
seam by pivoting at point P, as
shown In diagram II.

II
Draw V-shaped I ines
for each dart, hav-
ing the points of each
dart, 1 • anay from the
pivoting point P for
size 8; I- 1/4*, for
rO and 12; |-t/2Sfor
14 and 16, as shown
Q T Q T
by dotted I ines.
 )

Page 6 LONG TORSO DRBS (Sub-Teens and Teens

OBAFT OF DRESS FOUHDATXOH (Hip L^rngth)

I and III
Usino the fitted bodice front and Back, add the extra ease
allowance needed around bust and waistline for the dress or
blouse; then broaden the sbou Idcrs.and deepen the armhole as
shown by dotted lines. Shorten back waist dart I'.

II - FRONT {Hip Length)

to B - Equals waist to hip measure, less |/2« (see body
measurement chart for Sub-Teen and Teen sizes).
B to C - Equals bustllne 0 to £, plus 1/4*. Square at B.
C to F - Connect.
8 to G - Equals H to ithen connect from J to G to K.
;
to
^complete the waist dart.
IV - BACK (Hip Length)
L to W - Equals waist to hip measure (see measurement
chart)
M to H - Equals bustllne 0 to P, pfus 1/4". Square at M.
H to 0 - Connect.
M to R - Equals line S to T: then connect from U to R to V.
to complete the waist dart.

DRAFT OF LONG TOHSO URJBSS

Featufinfl dropped shoulder and square neckline.

Skirt sweep equals at least 3 times the .hip cir-
cumference of the bodice.

X and zi - Neckline
Lower the neckline as shown by dotted lines.makina
i^S..*?VS'"« ^ront. 2-1/2' wide for sfze 12,
with l/e* grade I"
for each size.
Dropped Shoulder - Raise shoulder 1/2" at arfflhole,
\.5nd drop armhofe, |-|/4' at side seam in Front and>
/
Back; then draft the 3' dropped shoulder outline as
shown by dotted lines.
-^Lower the hipline |/4* at center front, to nothing
at side seam.

rri and I? - Long Torso

Lengthen bodice front and Sack by locating the sea/n
\ine approximately half way between the hip and waist-
iines. For example: If waist to hip length is 6',
draw the seam line 3* below waistline from center
front to center back, as shown by dotted lines.

V and 71 - Skirt
Draft skirt the required length as follows:
Make length from natural waistline to hem of skirt,
twice the lefflth of 'Back Waist Length" measurement.
For example; If length from back of neck to waist-
line is I4-I/2', the length from waistline to hem
of skirt is 29'.
Draft width of Skirt as follows:
A to 8 - Equals at least 3 times the width of C to
0 for Skirt front.
a F - Equals at least 3 times the width of G to
H for Skirt Back.
To complete the pattern, add seams and make corre-
spending notches.

E
A GATHER B
4 GATHER F

3f ; 3

FRONT CENTER
SKIRT FRONT SEAM SIDE SNRT RACK
CENTER BACK

Lirrrm
i:i>i:(;l
 (Sub-Teens and Teens) Page 7
TOPPER STYLE
DBAFT or TOPPER PATTEHH

FRONT t - Coat Foundat on i

f//a
Using the dress foundation as a guide
draft the coat foundation as follows:
Lower the neckline 1/4'
-
Broaden the shoulders 1/4'
-
Lower the armhole I

Add 1/2' to each side seam.

11 and III - Back of Col lar

A to B Equals bacit of neck C to 0.
SQuare at point A.
B to £ - Width of Collar (1-1/2'). Square
at point B>
E to F - Equals 8 to A. Square at E.

IV and V - front and Collar in one

For front overlap, continue line down ^
below point F, 1-1/4* awav from center
front as shown by dotted line.

In order to close the side dart, first ^,

locate a pivotino point along the side
dart, 3' away fromcenter front. /

Draw slash line from neck (l-l/2\away^

from center front) to pivoting point.
Slash along dotted lines from shoulder
to pivoting point and spread, closing
the side dart as shown in diagram v.

DRAFT OF TOPPER DITil DEEPER AIIUHOLE

Lower thearmhole, extend side seams and

center back, and lengthen below htpllne
as shown- by dotted lines. Draw the bottom
Iines si ightly curved.

VII and VIII

Divide Front in 2 sections as shown by
dotted lines;then separate as shown in
diagram VIII.
Draft Front Facing, Pocket and Welt as
shown by dotted ines. I

To complete pattern, add seams and hem

at lower edge.
 .

Page 8 TOPPER SLEEVE - 2 Styles (Sub-Teens 4 Teens)

DBAFT OF SLEEVE PAITEB.I (St,l. 1)

l^'tjill-strates the 2-piece Topper set-in

flliit
Sleeve «ith a 4- »i<)e turn-gp cuff. Sleeve is 3/4 lenjth.
<|Ot>
?™>iole sleeve as sho»n indlagraas
iVo'Sff ViJ«?'Li5f 1V
=lee»easst,oSa in
duSr;i5'I';rifL"fil?oSl?'"
I - (Refer to Page 5 for Arm Ueasurements)
A to 8 - Equals Overarm length measurement.
A to C - Equals Arm Circumference measurement, plus
B to D Same as A to C; tfien connect C to D.
B to t Equals Underarm Length measurement.
0 to f Same as 8 to E; then connect E to F.
G 10 H Center'line between line A-C and line B-D.

IV II and III '

Sleeve Cap
E to I - Equals 1/3 of E to J
/I 6 to K
K to I
Equals
1/3 of G to A; then
Equals
nai f of K to
connect K to I .

"V
I

f to M Equals
1/4 of F to J.
G to N Equals
1/3 of G to C: then connect fj to M.
H to 0 Equal
U4"L.,i of M
ha f ui
£ ,>a, N to
LU M.
IM , .

G to £ - Draw curved line from G to E. through L,for front of

sleeve cap as indicated.
G to F - Dra* curved line from G to F, through 0, for back of
sleeve cap.

Fac ng
1 Li ne IV
Draft Sleeve facing, 5-l/S' »ide, for a 4'»ide turn-up cuff.
?i''iff„''f"' i" 2 "'Jf 'r<^ 2 to H; then dra» lino across,
gra- V. This provides the extra room for
the shoulder pad.
V - for the Deeper Armnole
Lo«er the sleeve cap 3' and extend I' at the
sides of each
sleeve section, as shown by dotted lines,

VI and VII
The deep armhole sleeve must be so constructed,
that it will
allo» the wearer to raise the arm more comfortably.
Thus for
J. i.;5!E"' 5''l!I°'f'. '•'e "Merarm length of the sleeve must
follows-
° *" "
diagrams vi and VII, as

Divide top of sleeve cap of each sleeve section into

3 equal
partsjthen draw curved slash lines, 2- deep, and divide each
in half. Mark the sections A to D.
Slash as illustrated and
spread, raising sections A and 0, 3'; then draw seam lines
slightly curved as shown by dotted lines.

DEAFT OF BACLAB SLEEVE (Slyl. 2)

("e'"" seams have been

^f""on Front
I

adiedl'i?a}?"fS;
'5^r=0lan armhoie and Back by drawing
sl?nh 'iS J, ! lines asshown b, dotted lines. Mark
A aSd 6 sections

Cut away the shoulder sections (A and

B) and apply them to
the corresponding positions on top of the
sleeve sections.
II
To complete the patt»rn, add seams and
a hem at lower edge.
 1 4

HALF SIZES - WOMEN'S AND MISSES

(REVISED EDITION OF PAGE 85)

The difference between the HALF SIZE and REGULAR

SIZE figure is mainly in the height.the HALF SIZE
figure measur ng 5 feet 4" or ess, and the RE6ULAR
i
I

SIZE, 5 feel 6' to 8*.

measurements
There is also a difference in the
figure
around bust, waist and hip, the HALF SIZE
measuring about 2" to 3" more than the REGULAR
SIZE- that is, ccmparino size 14-1/2 *ith 1-4;
16-1/2 nith 16, etc.

Garments designed especially for shorter women

(trade term isHALF SIZES) are made about 3 Ho
4'
shorter than the garments for the REGULAR SIZES;
that is, about " shcrter
1 in the waist and sleeve;
2" to 3' shorter in the skirt length.

Not all styles that are designed for the REGULAR

.there-
SIZE figures are suitable for shorter momen;
fore the HALF SIZE garment must be appropriate
in
the
design as well as perfectly proportioned for
shorter figure.

ow have been com-

The body measurements listed be
I

in the ready-
piled in accordance with those used
to-wear trade.

The measurements on pages 10 & n for HALF SIZES

include the necessary ease allowance around bust
and waistline for the oodice pattcrn.and
around
arm and elbow for the sleeve pattern.

BODY MEASURE MEM CIIABT

SIZE 14-1/2 1
16-1/2 18-1/2 20-1/2 22-1/2 1

37 39 41 43 Over the fullest part of the bust

1 8UST CIRCUMFERENCE 35
31 33 35 37 A fairly snug measurement
2 WAIST CIRCUUEERENCE 29
40 42 44 46 About 7' below waistline
3 HIP CIRCUMFERENCE 38
16-1/4 16-1/2 16-7/8 17-1/8 From shoulder at neck to waistline
4 BACK SHOULDER HEIGHT 16 ,

16-1/4 16-1/2 15-3/ 16 16-1/4 From nape of necl^ to waistline

S CENTER BACK LENGTH
4-7/8 5 6-1/8 5-1/4 5-3/B From neck to armhole
6 SHOULDER SEAM
14-1/2 15 16-1/2 16 16-1/2 From armhole to armhole
7 ACROSS BACK
6-7/8 7 7-1/8 7-1/4 7-1/2 From armhole to waistline
8 SIDE LENGTH
16-3/4 17 17-1/4 17-5/8 17-7/8 From shoulder at neck to waistline
9 FRONT SHOULDER HEIGHT
14-1/4 14-1/2 14-3/4 15 from base of neck to waistline
10 CENTER FRONT LENGTH 14
14-1/4 14-3/4 15-1/4 15-3/4 From armhole to armhole
n ACROSS CHEST 13-3/4
23-1/4 23-1/2 23-3/4 24 Frnm tnp nf armhole to wrist
12 OVERARM LENGTH 23
16-6/8 16-3/4 16-7/8 17 17-l/B From bottom of armhole to wrist
13 UNDERARM LENGTH
1-1/2 12 12-1/2 13 Around fullest part of muscle
14 ARM CIRCUMFERENCE 1 1 1

10-1/2 11-1/2 12 12-1/2 Around elbow with arm bent up

15 ELBOW CIRCUMFERENCE 1

6-3/4 7-1/4 7-1/2 7-3/4 A loose measurement

1« miST CIRCUMFERENCE 7

now TO TAKE measiirehehts

 . . .

Page 10 HALF SIZES - DRAFT OP DRESS BODICE

H0» TO DRAFT BODICE BACK
HOW TO DRAFT BODICE FRONT
F°r corresponding pattern nsa-
ciojEmtfA surements in all sizes, see For corresponding pattern mea-
* i? chart below. surements in all sizes, see
chart helow.
No seams are allowed.
No seams are allowed.

A to B-EQuals SHOULDER HEIGHT A to 6-Equals SHOILCER HEIGHT

measurement. measurement.
A to C-Equals half of ACROSS A to C-Equals half of ACROSS
BACK measure, plus i". CHEST neasure, plus 3/8'.
Square across at A.
C to D-2'. Square line doxn
from line A-C for shoul- C to 0-1-1/2'. Square line
der slope point. down from ine A-C for I

shoulder slope point.

A D to E-Equals SHOULDER SEAM, 11

plus i' allowance for D to E-Equals SHOULDER SEAM.
f
shoulder dart (see di- Draw ins 0 to £, lo-
1

agram IV below ). cating point E some-

Draw Ine D to £, lo-
I
where on ne A-C. 1 1

cating point E some-

where on B tc F-Equals CENTER FRfflIT
ine A-C. I

CEHTEB LENGTH.
BACK 6 to f -Equals
LENOTH CENTER BACK
LENGTH. Mark point F to G-Equals A to E. Draw
on I ine A-B. diagonal (bias) line.

E to f-Draw curved necl< line to F-Draw curved neck line

from E to F, squaring from R to F through G,
neck ine across at I
squaring across at F,
point F. and squaring dom at E
from ine E-0. I

Ill
f to G-Equals half of CENTER Ill
BACK LENGTH, pi us li'. B to H-Equals half of A to B.
G to H to l-Equals half of FULL
H-Equals hal f of FULL
BACK WIDTH measure. FRONT WIDTH measure.
Square across at G. Square across at H.
F to l-Equals half of F to G. F to J-Equals half of F to
H.
I to J-Equals hal f of ACROSS J to K-Equals half of ACROSS
BACK measurement. CHEST measurement.
Square across at I Square across at J.
G to K-£quals to J width. I
H to L-Same as J to K.
L to M-l-l/8'for size IBiwith
1/16' grade per size.
1/16" grade per size.
Draw diagonal ine. I
Draw d agonal
i ine. I
0 to H-Draw armhole line from
D to l-Draw armhole line from
p to J to L to H.
0 to K to M to I

IV
B to M-Equals
half of BACK IV
E A WAISTLINE ireasure.plus H to N-2'. Mark
1-1/2" al lowance for point N on
waist dart. center front line.
N to 0-Equals H to I,
Square across at B. plus
3/8 '.Square across at N.
G to N-Equals half of to J. I
to P-Equals SIDE LENGTH.
B to 0-Equals G to N, less J"
Draw ine through 0.
1

0 to P-l-l/2':then draw dart N to 0-Equals half of J to K

ines 0 to N to P.
I
plus 1/2".
H to Q-Equals SIDE LENGTH. - to R-Equals N to Q, less 1".
Draw Ine through M. I
Square across at B.
0 to P-Connect for waist ine. I
B to S-Equals B to R plus
For shoulder dart, draw a ine J"; 1

I then connect S toP to

from center of shoulder to compietis walsti ine.
point N; then draw dart 1/2'
wide, 3* long as shown. S to T-U"; then draw dart
I Ines R to 0 to T.
SIZE 14-1/2 16-1/2 18-1/2 20-1/2 22-1/2 SIZE 14-1/2 16-1/2 18 -1/2
BACK SHOULDER HFIGHT 16 16-1/4 16-1/2 16-7/8 17-1/8 20-1/2 22-1/2
FRONI SHOULDER HEIGHT 16-3/4 17
CENTER BACK IFNGTH 15-1/4 15-1/2 15-3/4 16
17 -1/4 17-6/8 17-7/8
16-1,74 CENItK l-RONT LENGTH
SHOULDER SEAM 4-7/8 14 14-1/4 14- 1/2 14-3/4 15
5 6-1/8 5-1/4 6-3/8
FULL BACK WIDTH
SHOULDER SEAM 4-7/8 5 5- I/a
19-1/2 20-1/2 21-1/2 22-1/2 23-1/2 5-1/4 5-3/8
FULL FRONT WIDTH 20 21
ACROSS BACK 14-1/2 15 16-1/2 22 23 24
16 16-1/2 ACROSS CHEST
BACK HAISTLINE 14
13-3/4 14-1/4 14- 3/4 16-1/4 16-3/4
16 16 17 18 FRONT WAISTLINE 16 17
SIDE LENGTH 6-7/8 7 7-1/8 7-1/4 18 19 20
7-3/8 SIDE LENGTH 6-7/8 7 7- 1/8 7-1/4 7-3/8
 .

HALF SIZES DRAFT OF DRESS SLEEVE Page 11

The ilustrations to the

I

left show how total^e the

necessary arm measure-
ments for drafting the
drefes sleeve pattern.

n For sleeve pattern

surements
mea-
in ail si zes,
see chart to the left.
14-l/g 18-1/2 Ho seams are allowed.
SIZE
23-1/2 from shoulder to wrist
Overarm Length 23-1/4
1 .
armhole to wrist
froffl The measurements include
2. Underarm Length 16-7/a
a little below armhole about 3' ease allowance
14-1/2 15-1/2 around arm (at muscle),
3. Arm Ci rcumference 14
12-1/2 13-1/2 »iith arra bent up and the necessary ease
4. Elbow Circumference IS
8-1/4 8-1/2 8-3/4 a loose measurement around elbow and wristi
5. Wrist Ci rciMferehce 7-3/4

HOW TO DRAFT THE ONE-PIECE DRESS SLEEVE

I
Draw straight line
A to B Eduals OVERARM LENGTH measurement.
from A to B. . ^ ,
•

Mark point C on
B to C -
Equals UNDERARM LENGTH measurement.
or 1/3 of .armhole
line A-8 (A to C eouals cap height bodice mea-
il?cumference. For example: If armhole of
sures 19-1/2". cap height is 6-1/2 I.
measurement. Square
C to 0 - Equals half of arm ci rcumference
this line across at point C.
at C.
C to E - Same amount as C to 0. Square across

II
Mark point F on ine A-B for
Equals half of B to C
1

B to F
elbow ine position.
1

this line a-
F to G • Equals half of elbow measurement Square
cross at point F.
at F.
F to H Same amount as F to G. Square across

III
point 8.
B to I
•
Equals f to G, less I'. Square across at
B to J Same amount as B to Square across at point B.
I .

to K through G and D, bringing

pointK
Ito K - Draw line from I

to the level of point A.

point L
J to L -
Draw line from J to L through H and E, bringing
to the level of point A. Connect K to L.

IV. (Guide lines for sleeve cap)

A to M - Equals 1/4 of A to K.
D to N - Equals 1/4 of 0 to C. Connect M to N.
M to 0 - Equals 1/2 of M to N. Mark point 0 on line M-N.
A to P - Equals 1/4 of A to L.
E to 0 - Equals 1/6 of E to C. Connect P to 0.
line P-Q.
P to R - Equals 1/2 of P to Q. Mark point R on

A to 0 - Draw curved cap. ne from A to D through Q for front of

I i

sleeve cap as indicated.

of
A to E - Draw curved line from A to E through R for back
sleeve cap.
point S on line l-,l.
1 to S - Equals wrist measure. Mark
S to T - 3/4'. Square a ine down at point S. I

to U - Equals half of
I
to B. 1

line from T to
U to T - Connect; then draw curved
I

T to H - Connect.

VI. (V-shaped elbow dart).

longer than
The back edge of sleeve, from E to H to T,is l-l/";'
front edge, from 0 to G to Make V-shaped dart l-j/4"wide and
I .

of dart,
3-1/2" long at elbow as indicated, making upper line
paral lei to elbow ine. I
 .

Page 12 HALF SIZES - DAKTS, TUCKS AHD GRADING

STYLE - Front with side darts

I

This style features side and »aist darts »hlch

fltve It a stnoother fit over the bust.
Using;the bodice front foundatlon.make a
dart in pattern as follows: side

Slasii along side dart line

(0 to 0)-then sorMri
and „al,e.the..aist dart 2- lid?';'
as sho*n in diagram ii.
.SllM
II and III
Draw V-shaped lines 4-l/2Mong for side dart,
and 5-1/2'iono for y/aist dart (for size 16-1/2)

STYLE 2 - «ith side dart and «alst tucks

The tucks at waist ine give the front a little
1

extra fulness IxiIcm the bust, and also a softer

effect than with dart fitting.
I and II
Trace outline of front (Style I); then trace
the lines for the side and waist darts.
lo replace the waist dart, make 2 tucks, 2'
highland drawing the 4 lines ! apart.
for size 16- l/S.make the first tuck 2-l/2'fro«i
center front.

Completed front pattern with waist tucks.

STYLE 3 - With shoulder tuck at

armhole
Especially suitable for the HALF
SIZE figure.

£|«S nL"?'^' 'i:°"f

P^""-" °' Style 2,dra»
n^r as near as possible
to a«*™
to ^r«kI^^
armhole) point I- away from ihe side
dart. Mark sections A and B; then slash and
spread as sho»n In diagram 11.
Straighten side seam ine. I

Mark the sewing lines'for the shoulder tuck.

3* long as shown.

STYLE 4 - Back with waist tucks

trace fhe'iin.ff^'^"?'" '""ndatlon; then

the lines for shoulder and
waist darts.
T . II *hd III
Jf^K'"'';" make 2 tucks. 2'
high, and draw the 4 lines
I' apaM.
for size 16-1/2, make the first tuck, 2-1/2'
away from center back. '

GRAOIIIG HALF SIZES

Diagrams below show where end how much

to grade FRONT, BACK and SLEEVE per
u
" Chart below shows the grade of the bodice
size. and
Sleeve In 6 sizes, 144, lei, isi. 2dJ, 221.

HOW TO DRAFT HIP-LENGTH DRESS FOUNDATION

HALF -
SIZES
liSfh l^t
Length
r Dress Foundation
«.
^= *fft Hip-
according to direotiona (Jiven on pafca
diagrams, I to IV, but, for the Front,
nake the following oh^Ses/
__Make waist dart 1-3/4" wide Instead of 1-1/2"
- " A to B - 7" (waist to hip) _
BtoC-equals bustllne D to E, plus 1/2 "
 SKIRT STYLES Page 13
SHORT JACKET ond 2

'"T FRONT' BACK

l"Hein

HOWTO DRAFT JACKBT PATTERH \

lond II -Front Shoulder Don
Foundation as o guido, diaw
SHORT JACKET Ullng th» rev!s.d Hip-Lenglli Dress
, slosh linos from- shouldsr to breost point, and (rom eonter front ,

• Feafuring -
I to hreast point, as shown by
doited lines; then slash and spread, ,

closing op the side dort as shown In

diagram II. j
Double*Br«astad Front -

III I

Looae-FittingWaistline- ih. armhole, add to |

Lower the neckline as Indicoted; then lower
then drow lower edgej
Convsrtlble Notch Collar - the side seams ond at center front, and
lines o( Jacket as shown by dotted
lines.
Sleeve, about 3/4 length.
IV - Jacket Facings
then draft the Neck
First odd 1" hem to lower edge o( Jacket;
arid Front Facings as shown by
dotted lines.

V and VI- Sleeve

widtli of Sleeve;
Using the Dress Sleeve Foundotion, Increase
then shorten Sleeve as shown by dotted lines.
Add 1 hem,
VII. Collor
Trace lop of Jacket Front; then droft Collar os follows:
center,^
A to C Equals Neck measure, from center front to
bock. Drew line from A to C, through point B.
vin
C to D 1-1/4" (This equals the Collar stand at center
back). Draw sqoored line, from C to D to point
c
at center of curved neckline.
Equals C to D, plus 1/2". Drow straight line from
C to F •

SKIRT - (2Slyl«i) D to F, through point C.

- Featuring •

Square (rom linoD-F to point G.oboul V from

lopolj_
F to G -
Sheoth Skirt, with lower then connect G to A, to complete Collar.
edge sweep, about 44' .

X ' Upper Collar

as shown.
4.Piece~Flared Skirl,
Moke Upper Collar 1/8" wider then Under Collar
with VHMp, about 70 ,

To complete pattern, odd seams. Moke corresponding notches.

For WAISTBAND direc^.^

tlons, see page 52 In
"Pattern Drofting & HOW TO DRAFT SKIRT PATTERN For double darts, make 2smailer darts inplace of
Grading" book.
land 11- Sheath Skirt "flio single darts in Front and Back as indicated.
(For Peg-Top Front, moke pleats Instead of darts).
Using the Hip-Length Dress Foundation as a
guide, draft Skirt, the reiiuirad Imgth, and make II ond III - Flared Skirt
...j.t I.
Fiwit, equol the Front
width ot lower ei. Draw slosh lines as shown by dotted lines; then
width Qt hlp« plus -1^". The lame applies to
stash and spread, closing up the darls as shown.
|
r
the Back.
For close-fitting waistline, reduce at side seoms,
1 1

/and raise wolstline at side seams as Indicated. I

To complete pattern, odd seams and hem at bortom.
I

'n. ...
Ill
 OVER-BLOUSE DRAFTING (Sfyl.. 1 »„d 2)

Using the revised "Hip-Length Dress Foundation"

as a guide, trace Front and Back; then for closer-fit
"cis'line), make dan 1/2" wider
I SwSm
n/4 on each side of dart), and extend point
of
dart up to breost point, as shown by dotted
lines.
Droft lower neckline at shown; then for button
cloi-
. . ing in front, add 3/4" to center front as shown by
'
dotted lines.

II
Draft length of Blouse, to 4" below waistline.
STYLE 1 For semi-fltled Blouse, reduce width of Bock waist
dorl, 1/2 pi woistllne.and odd 1/2" at siife seoms
• pMlurlng '
as shown by dotted lines.
Seml-fltfed Over Blouse - Droft Front and Neck Focings as Indicated. (Front
Closer-fit (just below bust) -
m Facing may be made In one with Front).

Scooped neckline -
Separate Front Ponel from Front; then mark 2 small
pleots in place ofthe single dart, below breast point.
m
Add I hem
'°
to lower edge of Blouse.
'PWlng as indicated.

Dropped-Shoulder outline •
Draft the Dropped Shoulder outline on Front
and
Ribbon trimming on panel. Back at shown by dotted lines. To complete the pattern, allow seams.

HOW TO DRAFT PATTERN (Style 2) V \Front

I \
Using the Dress Bodice Foundation as shown in the Supplementory \
RevUed Edition of Junior's, Misses and Women's sises, reduce I

1/2 at top of side seams, and raise armhole 3/4" at shown

by I

dotted lines. ' .

II
I
Droit Midriff as follows: Width of Midriff ot center front ^
end at i

waist dart, equals 1/3 of center front length; width of Midriff

side seam is
at _—
1 less thon at center front. ' i

For overlap closing, add 3" to center front of Midriff; then

draw I ,' ,' '
rolling line, fromMldriff to shoulder seomotneckline
as indicated. I ,'
, ,

ForRevers, draw line from shoulder to bottom outer edge of Front; i

* ^
|
then trace Rovers to make Rovers ond Front in one section
as i
shown in diogrom IIL I I

III
STYLE 2
'"«•). ""!<• <lo't 1/2" wider
I
I

Draft 1-1/2" wide Facings for arm-

f,°/jn°"''''", "'""r'" 'i"*'
(1/4 on each side of the dart) ot top of Midriff, as
J I

Featuring -
shown bi I hole, back of neck and lower edge,
dotted lines: then separate Midriff from Front, OS shown by dotted lines.
Sleeveless Over-Blouse -
ond close up dart I

(between B-C) as shown in diagram IV.

Fitted Midriff In front - Midriff is faced of self fabric.
IV I

Front end Rovers in one. Draft Facing, 4" wide for Rovers and Front
as shown; then trace 1

g to make Facing
l-acing — . vssu.H
and (Front one sociion.
in uiio
iwiii III section. '

Mark short lines for the pleat in ploco of the bust dart.
[
To complete poHern, add seams.
 -

OVER-BLOUSE DRAFTING (SlyU 3)

NECK ,

FACING I

FRONT ,

FACING ,

HOW TO DRAFT THE PATTERN

Foundation OS o
Usino the revised "Hip-Unglli Dress
4" below the woistllne;
guide, draft length of Blouse, to
bullon-closina, as sliown
then add 3/4" to center front, for
" eliminoto llie
ly dotted lines. For loose-fitting waistline,
vraist darts in Front and Back.
STYLE 3
- F«olurin9 -
For draft of Collor, first lower the neckline
V2"
at center

front; then draft "Flot-Flltlng Collor"

occording to directions
Neck pleott In front - given In '"Pattern Drafting «. Grading" book, page 4».
1" Hem''
-
FlnVflttlng Collor
Draft Bock Neck Focing, 1-1/2" wide as indicated.
Loose-fitting vniittllno-

One-plecs Short Sleeve.

Dtoft Front Focing as shown by dotted

lines. I ^
1

III „
to 2" from
I
""^ ^- SLEEVE FACING
For neck pleots in front, first extend side dort, ,

center front; then drow slash lines for the neck pleats._|
Mork sections A-B-C.
IV VI - SLEEVE
side dart ond spfeod, Sleeve" poltern, see
Slash along pleat lines, from neck to To droft "Short
size spreads lor "Chemise Dress
closing up the side dart, and nuking equal directions given for
the 2 pleats as indicated. droft, diogrom IV.

V
1/2" to side sooms as
For looser-fitting waistline, add To complete the poHern, allow seams.
of Blouse.
shown by dotted lines. Add 1" hem ot lower edge

11

I Breaswl

FRONT Vil- ll

VIII FOLD
SLEEVE FACING
Hnw TO DRAFT FRONT PATTERN OF THE ABOVE STYLE BY USING
THE BOOK
?Se "?HEST SLl5?" FR0iT FOUNDATION IN BACK OF
land II
o guide, change pottern
1 Using the "Chest Slant" Front Foundation as
Side Dart" Front 05 shown in diagrams I
and 11.
to a
Ill to VII
according to
To complete the Front pattern, droit Front and Facing
directions given obove for diagrams I to V.

VIH - Cutting Diagrom

_ SELVAGES
39" folded fobric. - NECK FACING
Pattern pieces are laid out on
 .

Page 16 EHPIRE PBINCESS DBESS - STYLE I

HOW TO DIUFT TBE PATTEBN

Using the Hip-Length Dress Foundation as shown
c in the Supplementary Revised Edition of the
bub-leens and Teens, or the Junior's, Misses
and Women's srzes, draft pattern as follows:
FRONT \.
BACK
I and II - Empire Waistline
\ Empire FRONT
>lVaistl ine
^- A to B - Equals 1/3 of A to C.
*- ,.--0 to E - Equals A to B, less I".
B to E - Square across to dart;
G
Natural \ "i- then connect to point E.
Waistline
--->- A BACK f
F to G - Same as D to £ on Front.
H to - I Equals F to G, less 1/4'.
G to - I Connect.
^ Hipltne
w > \ll S'°!f "ske ^"f""
^istline, (Just below
dart 1/2- wider (1/4' on each /
^iL''"f*ii;
--fi''fi,°','"°,''Vt2'»"^ point of dart up
fo the level of the side dart, as shown
by dot-

Separate the Front and Back sections as shown

in diagrams rii and vi.

tii and IV
To eliminate the side dart, draw
slash
line from point of side dart
to Errpire Seam fine (diagram iii)
as shown by dotted line; then slash
and spread, closing the side dart
._as shown in diagram iv. This also
provides the additional amount needed
for the front pleats.

V and VI /
'.
S''*'*
neckline in Front and /

"'ffi '''ft 'fK Dropped-Shouider,'

',

^thne as shown by dotted lines'.

To keep bodice from standing away
at square neckline, reduce T/4'at
top of center back and front neck-
STYLE 1
line to nothing at lower edge of
• FcBturing • bodice as shown In diagrams vil
and VIII.
The Empire Waisti ine - Skirt Length - Equals the prevail-
Closer-fit (Just below the bust) - ing style length, measuring from
Square neck ne -
I i
natural waisti ine to hem of ski rt.
i
Oropped-Shoulder outline - .O.caw straight Ines down below hip .' I
7-Qore flared skirt - , 'o,
Si I* to required
requ red length;
length: then curve hot-
I
bot- /r-
—
'
Skirt sweep, about 4 yards. -' .torn lines sliglitly as shown by dot- ,'
,
- .j.pi^.:-
f-.i
ted lines. ! i i
,

For a sweepof 4 yards, draw slash -

'~
— L^nes at the 7 skirt seams to waist-
I ine; then slash and spread as shown
'^.'.
.•^Sl.ash
In diagram vil and vill, making"
, the necessary allowance for the
,' required sweep (about 5' at each
,' spread).
vzi and VIII BACK
To complete the pattern, add seams
and a skirt hem; then make corre-
sponding notches.
 .

DRESS WITH MIDRIFF (Laiig-Tor>« Effect ) - STYLE 2 Page 17

BOW TO DRAFT TOE PATTERN

Using the Hip-Length Dress Foundation as shown
in the Supplementary Revised Edition of the
Sub-Teens and Teens, or the Junior's, Misses
and Wwnen's sizes, draft pattern as follows:
1 and II - Midri ff
A sleeveless dress is usually closer fitting
'(about 2") around bust, and the depth of t he
armhoi e is rai sed 3/4' as shown by dotted nesI i

Midriff - First draft lower edge of midriff,

half way between hip and waisti ine; then draff
.^"TTie upper edge of midriff as follows:

FRONT
A to B - Equals i/3 of A to C.
D to E - Equals A to B, less I'.
B to E ~ Square across to dart;
then connect to point E.
BACK
F to G - Same as 0 to E on Front.
H to - Equals F to 6, less 1/4'.
I

G to I
- Connect.

I
For closer fit midriff (just below the bust),
'i make dart I/?' wider (1/4' on each side of
(__tjiedart); then bring dart up to the level of
'the side dart as shown by dotted lines.

Separate the Front and Back sections as shown

in diagrams iii and vi.

Ill and IV
To eliminate the side dart, draw slash line
frgm point of dart, down to midriff line; then
slash and spread, closing the side dart as shown
in diagram iv. This also provides the additional
amount needed for the bust ine gathers.
I

V and VI
Lower the neckline in Front and Back, and ex-
pend Front, 3/4' beyond center front for but-
STYLE 2 ton closing as shown by dotted lines.
• Featuring •

Long-Torso Midri f f -
Closer-fit (just below bust) - VII and VIII
Slightly lower neckline -
Dirndl Skirt -
Draft front facing as indicated; then trace
Facing and Front in one section.
Skirt sweep, nearly 4 yards

Skirt
Length of Skirt - Equals the prevailing style
length, measuring from natural waistline to '
Oiem of skirt.
Width of Skirt-Equals about 4 times the cir-
cumference of the bottom of midriff.

To complete the pat tern, add seams and a skirt

liem; then make corresponding notches.

Gather

id

SKIRT FRONT SKIRT BACK

0
 . j

Page 18 EHPIRE SHEATH (With Peg-Top Skirt) - STVLE 3

BOV TO DRAFT THE PATTERN

I and II
Using the Hip-Length Dress Fcxjndation, draft
the Empire Waistline on Front and Back {from
A to I), as described for Style 1, paraoraolT'"
#1 and II.
For pointed empire waistline, raise line 2'
above point B at center front, to nothing at
dart as indicated.

For closer fit Empire Waistline (just below

\ the bust), make the dart 1/2* wider (I/4'on each
t^ide of dart); then extend dart up to the level
of the side dart as shonnn by dotted lines.
For additional darts at waistline, {for smootfier
,
fit), first add 1/2' to side seams at waist^.
Valine, to nothing at top and bottom; then draTt
the oval shaped darts, 7* lonfl and t/2* wide,
vA^'^ way between dart and side seam.
'

Separate the Front and Back sections as shown

in diagrams III and vi.

'•^ III and IV

iminate the side bust dart, see directions
'Jfo el
given for Style 1, paragraph #m and iv.

VI and vii
V,
Draft neckl Ine in Front and Back; then draft
^Dropped Shoulder outline as shown by dotted^ /
Iines.
Skirt Length- Equals the prevailing stylo length,
measuring from natural waistline to hem of skirt_.
,'Width at lower edge of Skirt Front equals hip-
\
tine plus 1'. The same applies to Skirt Back.
H p
i 1 i ne)
For peg-top effect in front of skirt, draw slash
J ine through center of waist dart to bottom;
,_ihen slash from toptobottom and spread 1' as
snown in diagram vii.

Draw the stitching ines of the peg-top dart to

I

waistline only. When stitched, it automatically

formsasoft pleat below waistline (see sketch
below)
IX
Add a kick pleat at center back of skirt as
shown by dotted lines. Pleat is stitched to
8' below hipline and across pleat {see sketch
below). —
Foracloser fitting waistline, reduce 1/4" at
center back as indicated.
To complete the pattern, add seams and a skirt
hem; then make corresponding notches.
 HIDRIFF DRESS (With S«rplica Bodice) - STYLE 4 Page 19

QOV TO DRAFT THE PATTERN

I - Dress Bodice
Usino the Dress Bodice Foundat ion as shown
in the Supplementary Revised Edition of
Junior's.Misses' and Women' sizes, trace
Front for left and right side as indicated.

II and III - Midriff

Width of Midriff atcenter front equals
l_/3of center front length -

r_.9i dart, i* less than at center front -

\jLt side, I* less than at center front -'
at center back, i* less than at side.

IV, V and vi
For closer fit midriff(just below bust),
make dart l/2'wider ( l/4'on each side of
dart)at upper edge of midr ff; then extend
i

"point of dart 2" up as showi by dotted I ines.

Draft lower neckline as shown in diagrams
IV and VI.
Separate the midr ff sections on Front and,
i

Back; then eliminate the darts on midriff

between E and B, Band CandG and K (dia-
grams V and vi), and on Front Bodice be-
tween D and A (diagram v).

VII
For pleats in bodice front, draw 3 slash
Lines as shown by dotted iines; then, to
,

el imi nate the waist dart,slash along dot-

'-o^ y ted lines and spread, closing up the dart
shown in diagram viii. Make sure that
the pleat spreads are equally spaced.
' Draw the pleat stitching lines to center
k front only as shown in diagram x. When
\ ^''stitched, soft pleats will automatically
' form beyond center front.

VIII and IX
.propped Shoulder - Draft the Dropped Shoul-.
der outlines as shown in diagrams viii
and IX.
STYLE 4
- Featuring -

Surplice Bodice - May be made X and XI

with right front over left or Skirt Length - Draft skirt length accord-
left front over right. ing to the prevailing style length, mea-
Midr f f .closer fit below bust.
i
suring from waistline to hem of skirt.
Dropped Shoulder outline.
Skirt - Gathered or pleated. Skirt Width -Equals about four times the
Skirt sweep, width of lower edge of midriff.
about 4 yards.
To complete the pattern, add seams and a
skirt hem; then make correspwding notches.

Gather or Pleat Gather or Pleat

 . 1 ,

Page 20 URAFT OF BOLERO and ONE-PIECE SHEATH

STYLE 1 DRAFT OF BOLERO PATTEHN (Style 1)

- Featuring -
Using the Hip-Length Dress Foundation as
shown in the Supplementary Revised tdition
Semi-Fitted Bolero - of the Sub-Teens and Teensorthe Junior's,
Shawl Collar and Front Misses and Women's sizes, draft pattern as
in one - fo I lows:
Short Sleeve with Cuff. I - Bolero
For semi-fitted Bolero, trace Front & Back
to waisti ine only, and el iminate the waist
darts; then reduce 1/2° at sides of waist-
line, and draw curved out ne In Front as ,
I i

slnown by doited lines.

instead of the 1/4' ease on back shoulder .

seam, make a dart, 1/2' wide and 3' long, at center of shoulder seanr:then \
add 1/4' to shoulder at armhole. For bottom of back, make t-l/4' wide facing.
J
Sleeve H -
Using the Dress Sleeve Foundation, draft short sleeve and cuff as shown by'
'
dotted ines.I

III - Col lar

To complete tlie col lar and front in one, draw
equals back of neck (from shoulder a squared line from poi nt 0 (about 2" ong I
)

seam to center back). Square this then continue the line slightly curved to
line up from shoulder line. edge of front as shown by dotted line.
One-Pi ece S leeve ess I

VII
Sheath - B to C - then connect from A to C.
1/2"; Draft faci ng as ndicated, making facing 1/8'
i

Extra wai st darts in. wider and /S' longer at center back as shown
1

Front and Back - by dotted nes I i

Square neck ne - I i
2-3/4". This equals 1-1/4" for stand
of collar at center back, plus 1-1/2' To complete the pattern, add seams on all
K\ck pleat at center
for turn back. Square at point C. sewing edges.
back -
Neck and Armhole may
be faced or f n shed I i

th Tr immi ng Band.
i

nAFT OF SHEATH PATTERN (Style 2)

Using the Hip-Length Oress Foundation as described

for Style above, draft pattern as follows:
I

I and II
For addi tional darts at wa istllne ' n Front and Back,
^. firstreduce width of each waist dart l/?",and shorten
the darts ' at hi piIne; then draft oval shaped darts
i

j/J" wide and 7' long, half way between the da'rt""^
"an'd side seam as shown by dotted lines.

For closer fit front(just below the bust),make the

^waist dart l/2'wider, about 5" above the waistline;
then extend the dart up to the level of the side
dart as shown by dotted lines. ,
'
A sleeveless dress is usually closer f itti ng around
bust (about 2'). Therefore, reduce 1/2' at upper^
part of each side seam; then raise armhole 3/4' as
shown by dotted lines.
ma
Draft squared neckline as shown by dotted
Dress length equals the prevailing style length.
lines.
v
Width at lower edgeof Front equals the front width
at hipline, plus I", The same applies to the Back.

Add a kick pleat at center back as shown by dotted

lines. Pleat is stitched to 8* below hipline along
center back and across the pleat(see sketchj.
t 1-

To complete the pattern, add seams and a dress hem. Inside of Back
 JACKET DBESS BODICE Page 21
FITTED SnORT fod

DBAFT OF JACKET (Style 3)

I
Using the Hip-Length Dress Foundation
as in Styie 1, trace Front and Bacl< to
waistline oniy; then extend the front
— u^waist dart up to the level of the side
dart as indicated.
1 Lower neckline I'atcenter front, and
I extend front 3/4" beyond center front
for front closing overlap; then shorten
I

Front and Back 2" as indicated,

;

Instead of the 1/4" ease on back shoul-

i

der seam, make a dart 1/2" wide and 3

1

1 long at
center of -shoulder seam; then
ad"d 1/4' to shoulder seam tjeyond
armhole.

II
Draft front faci ng as shown; then trace
Facing and Front in one section.
To divide Front and Back into 4 sec-
tions, draw seam lines from armholeto
top of the waist darts; then extend side
;aart to the dividing line as shown by
, dotted lines.
'
Separate the 4 sections; then close up
'
the side dart as shown in diagram ill.
I III
[ Draw curved linesatthe cornersof the
I
4 sections as shown by dotted lines.
To draft collar, see directions given
- on page vu in Supplementary Section,
SIDE '
Parti 2 -using steps from A
to H, but
SIDE
raoNT
riiur.j BACK '
make tTie following changes:
J
AtoB-r ("•• "U-agrai" 1' "
-
B to C - 7' (for size 16)
to D - l-lM" -
C
B to H - 3".

IV
For 3/4 Length Sleeve, use the Dress
Sleeve Foundation as in Style and
,

shorten 5"; then divide in half and

draw seam' line 1/4" toward the front.
"fiVduce I" at topof sleeve to nothing,
3" below; then apply the sleeve sec-
tions to Front and Back as follows;
N Overlap capofslncve I" at top of
armhole to nothing at lower part
Uf armholeas sho*n by dotted lines.

To complete the pattern.add seams and

make corresponding notches.

Ill and IV
DRAFT OF DRESS BODICE FRONT (StyU 4) shown
Instead of the single waist Jart as (below
in diagram II, draw 2 smaller darts
equal ling the sing e waist
the niMt lines),
and
ia?t; ?hen slash' afong tSe pleat linesas shown
STYLE 4
Using the Dress Foundation as in Style, 3, spread, closing up the waist darts
. Featurini; - trace Front to waistline only; then pivoting in diagram IV.
shown
at breast point, close up side dart as V
Dress Bodice in diagram ll.
Sleeveless Reduce 1/4' at center front neckline; then
Front - raise armhole and reduce width at top of side
Scooped Neck ne -
1 1
II seam as shown by dotted lines.
- Lower the neckline as indicated.
St itched shoulder pi eats
To draft Bodice Back, see Draw 2 parallel slash lines for the pleats To complete the pattern, add seams.
directions for Style 7. as shown by dotted lines.
 Page 22 FITTED JACKET Kisono Sleeve)
<iritfa and DRESS BODICE

DnAFT OF JACKET PATTERN

(Slyle 5)

I
Using the Dress Foundation as
in Style trace Front S Back
I ,

to waistline only; then extend

the front dart up to the leve_l,-
of the side dart. Make waist
dart 1/2' wider (1/4" on each sid^
of the dart), 4" above waist-
line as shown by dotted lines.
Instead of the 1/4° ease on back ,
shoulder, make a dart, 1/2' wid^_/'
and 3' long at center shoulder
seam; then add 1/4" to shoulder
seam beyond armhole as shown.

II
Draft out ne of Front as indi-
I i

cated; then shorten Jacket as

STVLE 5 shown by dotted lines.
- Featuring
Fitted Short Jacket -
•

For 3/4 length sleeve, use the

m
3/4 Length Kimono Dress Sleeve Foundation as in
Sleeve - Style 1, and shorten 6"; then
divide in half and draw seam
Sleeve Gusset inserted line, 1/4" toward the front. ^-
at underarm. Reduce 1" at top of sleeve cap
to nothing, 3' below.

^ IV - Kimono Sleeve .'•i

Trace Front S Back wi th shou Iders 3" apart at neckline ' ' ,'
and apart at armhole;then place sleeve withtopof cap
overlapping I- beyond armhole at shoulder, and having
/ / i

the / / r

cir^K ''5'??^2'',-"^"'X °2 "o"' ^'''^^ at underarms as ' / / '

shownbydotted lines. Draft a facing for bottomof sleeve.

I
'
' /
,C
'

4
„ I \
For gusset, draw diagonal slash lines, 3-1/2' long FACING-
from
A to B on Front, and 3-1/2- long, from C to 0 on Back
(the""'"
angleof these lines run from the underarm corner (Aand
C)
to neck at shoulder). Draft a diamond shaped gusset
4-I/2'
wide, and haying each line, 3-1/2" long, to correspond
with
the s|ash lines on Front and Back.
Draft facings for Front and Back, closing up the waist-
line darts as indicated.

'fie pattern, add seams and make corresponding

^ ^ /^^GUSSET-
notches'^'* GUSSET ;

DRAFT OF DRESS BODICE FRONT (Style 6) HI and IV

Insteadof the single waist dart as shown in
I
,
diagram ii, draw 2 smaller darts (below the
STYLE 6 Usi no the Dress Front Foundation as in \pleat nes), equalling the single waist
I I

dart-
Style then slash along the pleat lines and spread
Featuring -
4, trace Front to waistline only.
closing up the waist darts as shown in dia-
Sleeveless Dress Bodice Lower the neckline as shown by dotted line- gram IV.
Front - then pivoting at breast point, close up
the For sleeveless bodice, reduce 1/2' at top
side dart as shown in diagram n. of
Scooped Neck ine -
I
side seam and raise armhole 3/4" as indicated.
Diagonal pleats, over- To complete the pattern, add seams.
lapped at center front.
Draw 2 paralle-l linesVorthe pleats,
making
the space between lines, 2-1/2" wide,
To draft Bodice Back, and V and VI
haying the ines reach dovm to I" below breast
I
Diagrams show the entire Front, and how the
see Style 7 directions. point as shown by dotted lines. pleats overlap at center front.
 (Stylo "Pi 8) Page 23
DRESS BODICES 7

Ill
DBAFT OF DBESS BODICE (Style 7)
Separate front and shoulder section at seam;
then draw slash lines as follows:
parts;
Using the Dress Foundation as in Style I, trace First divide seam lines into 3 equal
lines.
Front and Bacl< to waistline only; ttien lower then draw slash lines as shown by dotted
the neckline as shown by dotted lines. IV and V
For sleeveless dress bodice, reduce 1/2" at and spread,
ine;tnen To al low for gathers in front.slash
too of side seam to nothing at waistl closing up, the darts; then slash shoulder sec-
raise armliole 3/4' as shown by dotted lines. _tion and spread to equal
the lower spreads,
STYLE 7
from standing away at lower part cover
To l<eep bodice "cut a bias strip 6" x l-IM' for loop to
. Featuring •
of neckline, reduce !/« at center front and the gathered seam.
back necldine to nothing at waistline.
Bodice for Sleeve-
less Dress - II seams and make
square To complete the pattern, add
Gathered Shoulder Draw seam line across front, 1/2" above corresponding notches.
Section. neciil ine.

DBAFT OF DBESS BODICE FRONT (Style 8)

Style I,
Using theDress Foundation as i" lower
trace Front to waistline onlyjthen
neckline as shown by dotted lines.
1/2" at top
For sleeveless bod ice, reduce
as
of side seam and raise armhole 3/4
shown by dotted ines.I

II
Draft yoke seam as fol lows:
to B - 1-3/^".
line ParaHe,,
B to C - I-3/4-. Draw this
to neckline, then connect CtoD^
III , .

Separate yoke from front;then draw slash

by
lines from B and C to darts as shown
dotted ines.
I

IV
drape,
To allow for fulness for the front closing
slash alongdotted lines and spread,
lines in
up the darts; then draw slash
'yoke as shown by dotted lines.
dotted
For gathers in yoke, slash along
ines and spread as shown in
I
diagram V.

Trace left and right^ront sections; front

th_en.

extend right front up 3" and left

for loop over yoke at
UP I- above B and C lines.
center front as shown by dotted
corresponding notches.
Add seams and make

CONSTRUCTION OF FRONT
VI
front sec
Join center seam of yoke and
t ions. Finish neckedge
and bottom edge of
hem.
STYLE 8 like (between C and C) with .narrow
1-3/4
Gather yoke at center and draw into
.

- Featnring •

and 0) as
Sew yoke to Front (between C
Bodice Front for
Sleeveless Dress- drape
notched, leaving extension free for
Front draped over over yoke.
the gathered Yoke ''
at center -
Bring extension "'"iO"
To draft Bodice left "J^J"*!-'
front as
and join to extension of
Back, see direc- notched, to complete the front.
tions for Style 7.
 HALTER AND SUN-BACK DRESS BODICES (4 Styres)

FRONT

DRAFT OF HALTER PATTERN (Sty)e 1)

I
»'(
Edlll™ of the Junior's, Missos and
tdition
''<"'"!'°"°" « Supplementary Revised,
,
I Women's sizes, draft pattern as follows- I
'

STYLE 1
1
I
Trace Front and Bock to woistline only; then '

Featuring for the Sleeveless Bodice, reduce

Hotter Dress Bodice - 1

T"
?°" "]
l/lL ?o sloovele..
Nnes dross 'f!"<':<"»>
is ustiolly
"•>'» Tmhole 3/4" OS shown bi dotted
obout 2" closer fitting oround bust). '
I

i
L_Drow lines for Halter Front as Indicated. '

Low V-neck Front -

Sun-Back Bodice -
Front and Halfer
n and III
in one -
a diagonal line for V-neck; then reduce
'
necklir 1/4" to nothing at worstj
Bust-fitting pleats. as shown (this will keep bodice
from starding • •/ay oflower port of necC). I
Mork sections A-B-C.

indicated, ond mark sections E-F-

£^1. Ur lI" f;"""'
Back Neckband (section D), and apply ,„ '''S'r then draft
From, motchlng shoulders.
Slash Front along IJaller line to breost
point; then close up the dorts in Front and
bust.rtLtx;"s fw-''"' >^'''!^-'L
IV and V
Pn'trrrm'",?. Mirt^t^tir^rG^l'^''' "
Allow seems on oil sewing edges for Halter and Facings to complete the pattern.

STYLE 2

• Featuring •

Off'The-Shoulder Bodice •

Low V-neck in Front ond Back

Bust-fitting pleats -

I DRAFT OF "OFF-THE-SHOULDER" BODICE (Style 2)

'
I
Using the Dress Foundotion, troce Front and
Bock to woistlinj only; then reduce
ot upper srde seam, end raise ormhole
I
os described for Style I.

I di°J j"°""^''lV*°j"''''T"
Sleeve Foundation as shown; then
""^ ' "> 3" "•lo* "« Town bj
dl».d l'"
L dptted i
Imes. Square "r*
across ol the 3" point and mark sections 1 and
to top of ormhole of Front and 2; then a!p1^
Back as indicated.

Hand III
Draft V-neck in Front ond Bock, having the band. 2-1/2" wide over ih. IJ

a™hrro'^ '°'!d'
f-^-" i-'-^M lo.h.'vtT iit%or,on;
""^connect the two points as show„._
Zk Ition^'A B-c!
Reduce neckline 1/4" in Front os described In Style 1, diagram II.

IV

?i'atm n"f^: tfrg\h°."irt''F'a'ci°nV"'""'"''

Slosh from ormhole to breast point olong dotted
lines; then close up the side ond

re:;rretbLs.!,yilrpTe:sf
To complete the pottern, oilow seams on oil sewing
edges.
 HALTER AND SUN-BACK DRESS B 0 D I CE S (4 Styl e s)

STYLE 3

- Featuring -

Halter and Off-The-Shoulder Bodice -

{Combining Styles ] ond 2)

"Off-The-Shoulder" band must be

pieced underneath the Halter, see
construction diagram below.
1

DRAFT OF HALTER PATTERN (Styto3)

Draff Front and Back according to direction given in Style 2 for "Off-The-
Shoulder" bodice, diagrams land II.

II
Close up the Front waist dort and eliminate section C as indicated; then
draw a seam line parallel to center front as shown by dotted line. Uork sec-
tion E. Separate secli<»>s A and E olong seam line as shown in
diagram IIIi_ J
The purpose of the seam is for piecing sections A and E underneath the
Halter.

Ill
To complete the Halter part of the Front pattern,
..Center Bade Jroff sectlons and D according to directions given
C
Halter
5^^!^ ^ "Halter Pattern", diagrams land II;
then apply sections C-D to Front as indicated. The
V-spread above the breast point, forms the featured
bust-fitting pleats.

IV and V
Draft Facings for Holler neck and armhole as shown.

Allow for seams on all sewing edges and^noke corre-

sponding notches.

STYLE 4

• F eatu ring*

Holter Dress Bodice with Collar -

FRONTS si
'^^^
I
FRONT \
5" neck opening at center front

Sun-Back Dress Bodice -

Bust-fitting pleats.

DRAFT OF HALTER WITH COLLAR (Slyl. 4)

I
waistline only; then
I
Using the Dress Foundoljon, trace Front and Bock to
Style 1. Marl<
reduce at upper side seam, and raise armhole as described for
I
sections A-B; then pivotino at breast point, close up side dart as shown in

I
diagram II.

at center (ront; then draft "Flat-Flttlno Collar"

Lower the neckline 1/2"
pollern according to the directions given in the book Pattern Drotting &
\ I

Grading" on page 49, but make collar only 2" wide.

II ond III
Draw line from Shoulder to armhole in Front, and for "Sun-Back" pattern
drow line as shown by dotted lines. Mark sections C-D.

Draft Back Neckband pattern as shown (section E) for bock of Halter.

1 Drow the 3 1" apart at center front and 1-1/2" apart at the
pleat lines,
lines_and_close_
waist dart. Mark sections F-G-H; then slash along the pleat
up the waist dart in Front ond Back as shown in diagram III.

IV and V
Draft Facing for Halter Front and Back as shown by dotted lines.

Add seams- and moke corresponding notches.

 Page 26 CHEMISE DRESS and SLIP

DRAFT OF CHEMISE DRESS PATTERH

I
]
Using the Hip-Length Dress Foundation, trace Front and dorts as indicated;
^hen for front closing, odd 3/4" to center front as shown.
l_

II
Draft Front Facing as indicated; then trace Facing and Frwit in
one.
Trace Back Hfp-Length Dress Foundation and waistline dart.
Instead p' the 1/4" ease on the back shoulder seam, moke dart 1/2" wide
ond 3 long at center of shoulder seam; then add 1/4" to shoulder at ornv
hole OS shown by dotted tines. Draft bock nock facing, 1-1/2" wide.

Ill
Add 1/2" to side seam of Front and Back at woistline; then for slight-fitted
CHEMISE DRESS waistline, reduce waist darts 3/4" in width of waistline, ond 2" in length
j
OS shown by dotted lines. '

- Feoiuring • For Loosft-Fitting Chemise at waistline, eliminate the waist darts entirely.
Draft dress the required length. Width at lower edge of Front, equals
the
SI ishtly-fitted or loose- Front width ot htpline, plus 1". The same applies to the Back.
fitting waistline ~
rv '

May be worn with or with- Using theOress Sleeve Fourdotion, trace Sleeve 3" long at underorm seam;
SLEEVE FACING;
out belt- then draft Sleeve Facing 1-1/2" wide for lower edge of Sleeve, ^
j

(For greater orm ease - when roising the arm - lengthen top of undera^
One-piece Short Sleeve
seams of Sleeve according *o directions given for Trapeze dress Sleeve,
J
To complete the pattern, odd
Dress sweep about 44". diagrofTi III).
seams on all sewing edges.

SHOULDER
'^---STRAP--^

front\

DRAFT OF CHEMISE SLIP PATTERN \

I I

Using the Hip-Length Dress Foundation, trace Front and I

the dorts as shown; then reduce ]/2" at top of side seam, t

II 1

Draft upper edge of Slip by drowing diagonal lines as indi- )

cated; then fty slash-got^iered seam fine, draw diagonal

|

I
line frtun center front to waist dart.
|
Draft shoulder strap 1/2" wide as shown.
|

Illand IV I

For gathers, drow slash line from diagonal seam line to I

point of side dart. Mark sections A-B; then slash andj

spreqd, closing up the side dart as shown in diagram IV . Complete the pattern by adding
CHEMISE SLIP seams and a hem at lower edge.
For shoulder strop position, draw line from center of
- Featuring - shoulder to breast point.

Slash-gothers below bust -

Troce Bock Hip-Length Dress Foundation, and reduce 1/2" at top of side seam to nothing at waistline.
Bra-fitfing Front - Draft upper edge of Slip as shown; then, for shoulder strop position, drow line
from center of shoulder
to the waist dart.
Loose-fitting waistline.
Droft shoulder strap 1/2" wide; then combine front and back strop in one.
Trim upper and lower edge
of Slip with lace edging.
Draft Slip the required length. Width ot lower edge of Front, equals the Front width at
hipline, plus
1 . The same applies to the Back. For Chemise wear, eliminate the woist dorts.
 TRAPEZE DRESS page 27

DRAFT OF TRAPEZE DRESS PATTERN

Using the Dress Foundation, trace Front

ond Back to waistline only.

Lower the neckline 1/2" at center front;

then draft "Flat-Fitting Collor" pattern ^
|

according to direction given in the book

"Pattern Drafting & Grading", page 49.

Using theDress Sleeve Foundation, trace T

Sleeve 3" long at underarm seom; then j

draft Sleeve Facing, 1-1/2" wide _j

lower edge as shown.

For2-pi©ce Sleeve, divide Sleeve in half

and reduce 1" at top, to nothing, 3"J)e-^ j
low as shown.

II
For narrow shoulder effect, draw lines _
on Front and Back, from shoulder to arm-
hole as indicated. Mork sections 1 and 2;
then apply to Sleeve as shown in Diagram
II.

Draft Facing for front neck opening os_^/

shown by dotted lines.
^

III
TRAPEZE DRESS
For greater arm ease (when raising the - Featuring -
arm), lengthen underarm seams of Sleeve
at top, as follows: Flat- Fitting Collor with 5" neck
opening in front -

Draw diagonal line, 1-1/2" long os^

shown; then raise underarm seam as Shoulders, 2" narrower, and 2-ptece
shown by dotted lines.
Sleeve with extended cap -
-
Front waistline slightly fitted

Dress sweep, about 80".

IV
For panel effect in Front, draw slosh
lines from center of neck to waistline
(through breast point), having the panel,
1/2" wider at waistline thon ot breast
point. Mark sections A-B-C.

V and VI
Slash from neck and waistline to breast
point; then close up the side dart, mak-
ing the space at waistline, 1" wide^

Draw slash line from waistline to center,

of ormhole as indicated. Mark section D;
then slash and spread 3-1/2" ot waist-,
line as shown in diagram VI, (This will
give the correct Trapeze sweep at lower
edge).

Draft Front the required dress length,

making the lower curved line, parallel to
the waistline as shown by dotted lines.

For a correct grain-of-goods of side sec-

tion of the Front, draw slosh line from
breast point to lower edge (through cen_fer
of the 1" space at waistline); then slosh
from breast point to lower edge and
spread 3" at breast point as shovmjn IX and X Droft Bock the required dress length,
diagram VIII. Draw slash line from waistline to centej making the lower curved line, parallel
i

of ormhole in Back. Mark sections E-F; waistlineas shown by dotted lines.

to the
then slash and spread 3-1/2" at waist-
VIII line as shown in diagram X. (This will
To complete the dart, draw V-shaped give the correct Trapeze sweep at lower Add seams ond make corresponding
linesto a point, 16"belowthe waistline^ edge). notches.
 Page 28 PEDAL PUSHERS - JAMICA SHORTS - BERMUDA SHORTS - SHORT- SHORTS

Pedal Pushers PEDAL PUSHERS

- Featuring -

FiHed waistline with soft

pieots in front ond with
darts in back.

HOW TO DRAFT "PEDAL PUSHERS" PATTERN

I
Using iKe "Slim Pants Foundation' as a guide, trace Front and Backas
indicoted-
than for Pedal Poshw»" length, locate lower edge (ine by moking the distance
Slim Pants Foundation" as shown between A and C equal 1/3 of A to B.
in "Paltsm Drafting & Grading"
II
book, pas« 62, diagram III. Add 1 hem to lower edge; then complete the pattern by adding seaniK.

II - Jomaica Shorts III - Bemiuda Shorts

For "Jamaica Shorts", locate lower

edge lino by having the distance from
_A to C «qiMl half of A to B, and for
Bermuda Shorts", locate lower line
by having the distance from A to D
equal 3/4 of A to B as shown by
dotted fines.

HOW TO DRAFT "JAMAICA SHORTS"

OR "BERMUDA SHORTS" PATTERN
Hand m
Increase width of leg of Front ond
Bock OS Indicated; then add 1" hem
I OS shown by dotted lines.
Using the "Slim Pants Foundation" "JAMAICAS" or "B ERMUDAS"
as o guide, trace Front and Back as - Featuring -
Indicated; then draft the "Jamaica"or To C9mplete pattern, add seoms and
BermudaShorts" paHernas follows: Fitted waistline with pleats or darts
make corresponding notches.
front, and with darts In bock -

SHORT-SHORTS
- Featuring •

Fitted waistline with darts

tn Front and Bock,

HOW TO DRAFT "SHORT-SHORTS" PATTERN

I
Using the "Slim Pants Foundation" as a guide,
draft length of "Short-Shorts" by drawing the arc
line OS shown by dotted lines.

II
Facing^vFof closer-fit around leg, reduce lower edge 1" as
Line^'slwwn 'n diagrams Hand III.
-.fy^k^' HI
'OV Focing ol lower edge, first place Front ond
Backtogether of lower side seoms;thendraft 1-1/2"
wide Facing os shown by dotted lines.
- — — — — —
To complete pattern, add seams.
 v I

PATTERN DRAFTING AND GRADING

SUPPLEMENTARY SECTION - PART 2

How to scale the How to use the "NECK

DRESS FOUNDiTION- Paje Page AND ARMHOLE GUIDE" -
Page XIV. JACKET AND SLEEVE IN ONE.... II BLOUSE *ITH SHAOL COLLAR X Page XV.
JUMPER DRAFT Ill BLOUSE (Turtle Neck Col lar).XI
DRESS WITH GORED SKIRT IV SKIRT (Semi-circular} XII
CAMISOLE 4 PETTICOAT DRAFTS.. SKIRT WITH FRONT INSET. . XIII
. .

COAT (Flared Back) Style I VI HOW TOSCALE THE FOUNDATION. .XIV

COAT (Flared back) Style 2...vii HOW TOUSE THEARMHOLE GUIDE. .XV
BLOUSEWITH SHIRTWAIST OOLLAR..»ni REFERENCE PAGE FOR MAKING)
BLOUSE GRADING IX JACKET OR COAT FOUNDATION I. XV
Page II DRESS-JACKET AND SLEEVE IN ONE
HOW TO DRAFT THE JACKET PATTERN
I
Using the dress foundation to waistline
only, trace front and back as indicated,
liaving the shoulder touching at neckline,
and spreading shoulder edges 1" at arrrhole.
Slash waist dart between A and 6;then
close up front dart as shoAn in diagram II.
IL
Lower neckline i"at center front, add 3/4"
to center front for closing oVerlap; add
3/4" for blousing allowance in front and back.
Place sleeve foundation wi th cap over ap~ I

ping front armhole i" at stiou der, havi ng I

each side of (ower part of cap at equai

distance from arnthole and side seam.
Shorten sleeve 5*. Raise elbow dart 1*.
Ill
For dolman sleeve, draw diagonal guide
line 4'')ong at each side;then draw curved
underarm lines from waistline to sleeve.
Draft 3"wide cuff for lOT«r edge of sleeve;
then trace for double material cuff.
Draft f rent f ac ngi "wi de al shou der hav-
I I

ing facing I ineparal lei tocenter front;

then trace facing and front in one section.
For waistband, make a double band l-i"
wide finished and the length of half of
the waist measure, plus 3* extension for
center front closing.
IV
Add seams andmake corresponding notches.

V^A^Vf- ("

This style features striped

fabric withthe strip es run-
ning straig'ht at center
front and bias in back.
Jacket blouses slightly at
waistline which permits free
arm movement.
Sleeve is3/4pushup length,
and features ade^(dolman)
underarm.

HOW TO DRAFT THE COLLAR

!
Trace front; then draft collar as follows:
A to B - 1/2' for lower neckline.
ri
B to C - Draw straight ine. I

B to D - Equal s neck measure from center front to

center back (about 7-\/2' for size 16).

Trace curved i i n between^B and Ctoopposite side

of the strai ght
IV
0 to E - Square a line from 0 to 'E 1-1/4" long.
This equais thecol lar stand atcenterback
of collar.
For neck edge, square a. ine down from £ to the
I

curved line.
D to F - Equals D to E, plus 3/8".
V
F to G - Square a ine down from ine E - F to G,
I I

having point G about 1-1/2" from center

front; then connect B to G.
VI
Trace collar section for double material collar.
A low for seams.
I
 HOW TO DRAFT THE JUMPER Page III

THIS STYLE features side and waistdarts

'
DRAFT OF BODICE BACK
A JUMPER is a sleeveless dress and may
be worn over a blouse or sweater. in front of bodice;waist darts inback. I

The neckl ine isusual ly cut low in front, Skirt has inserted pockets in front. Using thehip length dress foun-
back and over the shoulders. Afsoasoft pleat near each pocket open- dation, trace back to waistline
The armhotesare also cut a ittle deeper.
t ing for needed fulness over the pockets. only; then reduce width and
Because the bodice is sleeveless, it is There is a kick pleat, 22* in length, length of dart as indicated.
made closer fitting at underarm seams. at center back of skirt. II
Deepen the arrrtole 1/2"; then re-
duce width of back 1/2' at sideseani.
Lower the neckline 1-1/2' at cen-
ter back and 2' at shoulder seam.
Ill and IV
Draft facings 1-1/4' wide for
neck and armhole; then trace
as shown In diagram iv.
DRAFT OF SKIRT BACK
V
Trace back hip section; then
reduce width and length of dart.
Curve hipl ine up 4'toward side;
then continue straight lines
down at side and center back to
required length. Make lower cur-
ved line parallel to hipline.
VI
Reduce 1/2' at side edge and
ra se waisti ine 3/4' at side edge
i

to round the side seam over hip.

VII
Add 22' length kick pleatat center
--Dack, as shov.n Dy dotted nes. I i

~'
DRAFT OF BODICE FRONT
I
Trace front to waistline only.
Make waisti ihe dart wider.
Lower the armhoie J'. Reduce
width i' at top of side seam.
11
For side dart, draw line from
side seam to a point 2' diagonal ly
above breast point. Slash ana
spread, making center front line
straight as shown in diagram III.
in
Lower theneckl ine as indicated.
IV and V
Draft neck and armhole facing
l-i' wide; then trace.
DRAFT OF SKIRT FRONT
VI
Trace front hip section; then
curve h p ine up 3 "toward side.
i
I

Draft outlineofskirt below hip

as described for skirt back.
Reduce i'at side edgeandraise
waistline 3/4" same as back draft.
For a 2° waistline pieat, slash
through dart to bottcm, and spread
r at top as showi in diagram VII.
This provides for a soft pteat
(r deep) near pocket opening.
VII
Draw a diagonal pocket opening
I ine as indicated.
VIII
Draft outi ine of pocket as shown
by dotted lines. Trace shaded
part for 'Inset and Pocket' as
shown in diagram X.
IX
For pucker in pocket opening,
make skirt i' wider at upperpart
of sidese^ tonothing at bottcm.
Make inside pocket correspond-
ingly wider at opening as shown
by dotted nes. i i

Trace shaded part of "Inside

Pocket' asshown in Diagram XI.
Add hem atbottom of skirt;then
add seams on all sewing edges.
 . c

Page IV RA G LA H -S LE E VE DRESS * 8-GOBED SKIRT

This style features:
Sideandwaist darts in
bodice -si ightly deep-
ened armhole - shou Ider
dart in sleeve.
The 8 gored sitirt has
asweepof over3yards,
and extra ease al low-
ance around hip.
For 'Bouffant' wear,
sl(irt has enough ful-
ness around hip and sweep
Trace front and back dress foundation to waist- at lower edge to be worn
line only; then adjust armhole, side seams and over a stiffened crino-
watst darts as shown by dotted lines. Iine petticoat.
Adjust each side of the dress sleeve foundation
to correspond with the adjustment of the bodice
armhole and side c aaiti
fin seams
'

HOW TO DRAFT SKIRT

V
Trace hip sections of the
dress foundation: then curve
hip and waistlines up 1*
toward the sideband reduce
waistline i\ at each side
seam as shown by dotted lines.

Divide hip sections into

4 parts by cutting along dart
I ines.Mark sectionsA toD.

Continue straight lines domi

below hip sections to re-
quired length; then curve bot-
Draft raglan armhole seam lines, slightly curved. tom lines parallel tohlpline,
For side dart, draw slash line; then slash and
spread as described for the "Jumper Dress*. VIII
For additional sweep, add
Draw curved slash lines on each side of sleeve aoout 2-i" at bottom of
cap as shown by dotted lines. each seam, to nothing, 3"
below waisti ine.

Slash each side of sleeve and spread t-i' at un-

derarm. (The spread at underarm must always
equal
twice the amount the armhole was lowered); then
connect at each side to elbow line. Trace raolan
sections F and G;then apply themtotop of sleeve
cap C and D, "
I
apart
r

Continue shoulder dart"ines I-i* to

a point as
shown by dotted lines on sleeve.

ll^tL f^®
center front
.2" '^^"ter
for front closing overlap
front.
to Add V
Draft front facing 4° wide as sbowi by
dotted lines.
Add seams and make corresponding notches.
For roll-coJIar draft, see method
on page 49.
 . . I .

DRAFT OP CAMISOLE AND PETTICOAT Page V

CASING FOR ELASTIC

C3
'
C
PEPI I IM

HOW TO DRAFT CAMtSOLE

II iir
I
Draft top of camisole, mak- Make casing forwaistline to
Using the hip length dress equal waistline measurement
foundation as a guide, trace ing length of center front
10 .center back 7", and side of bodice (center front to
front and back to waistline
seams 8* as shoMi by dotted ines. center back)
only; then reduce width of I

A camisole is bodice at bust ine toI Upper edge of camisole is

usual iy worn nothing at waisti ine. Draw shou der strao
I
nes n I i i trimmed withembroidered in-
under a sheer After tracing the hip sec- front and back as indicated. sertion beadinQj and drawn
in wi th r bbon tie.
blouse or dress. tions, raise hip and waist-
i

'

This style has ine V at side to nothing ^ Make peplum front and back and make corre-
i

4'long. Eliminate the waist Add seams

elastic around at center of hipl ine asshown sponding notches.
waistt ine. by dotted ines.
I darts in front and back.

This style features a fit-

HOW TO DRAFT PETTICOAT ted yoke and a very ful
petticoat (about 2-1/2
I yards sweep)
Using thehip sections of tt can be made of tafetta
the dress foundation as a or crinoline for "bouffant"
fluide, curve the hip and wear
waist lines up 4' tcward the
side as shcMTi by dotted lines. 1f made in crinol ine, the
yoke and a 10" deep hem
Reduce the width and length (s made of si k tafetta, I ,

of the waist darts as in- rayons, cottons, etc.

dicated.

ri
Reduce wai sti ne 3 at i '

each side seam, and raise

waisti ine i" at sides as
shown by dotted lines;
then draw the waisti ine
and side seams slightly
curved as shown in dia-
gram III.
Draw a ine " above hip
I I

Iine tocomplete lengthof

petticoat yoke pattern. FRONT SIDE AND BACK
ft

Ill
Draft petticoat required
length (about " shorter i

than skirt length) and make

'
width of petticoat at least
2-j times the width of
lower edge of yoke from
center front to center
back.
Divide petticoat into 2
parts, making width of--
front 1/3, and width of
side andback 2/3 of the
enti re width as ndi cated. i

Draft facing for lower

edge of petticoat iO» deep.

Allow for seams on al I sew-

ing edges.
 )

COAT WITH FLARED BACK - 2 STYLES

(How to draft coat, sleeve and collar - Part i)

III

Coat features 4-piece flared j

back, 2-oiece sleeve, convertible
collar, and patch pocket with '

flap, ,

DRAFT OF COAT (STYLE I

I
Using the coat foundation as a
Quide, mark shoulder dart on
front; then slash and spread,
forming straight center front
line as shown m diagram n.
Chance the i/4' ease at back
shoulder, to a spread of 3/A*
as shown in diagram ii.

II
Deepen armhole and front of
neck, t/S".
Divide Oack in 2 parts, draw-
ing line oarailel to center,-
a
back line, measuring from top
of slash to bottom.

Draft coat the required length,

makfng allowance for the back
flare at each seam as shown by
dotted lines, starting the flare,
7' from neck.

Add to sides as shown;then add

extension beyond center front
for button closing. Draw slight-
ly curved lines at bottom.

IV, V and VI
Draft facing as indicated;then
trace to make front and facing^
in one section. Add hem at'
bot torn.
Draft pocket and flap, making
f lap I wider at bottom.
Make flap and facing in one
section; then add T wide hem
at top.
Add seams on coat, pocket and
flap.
 ' .

COAT WITH FIjARED BACK - 2 STYLES Page VII

(How to draft coat, sleeve and collar - Part 2)

HOW TO DRAFT COLLAR

. D to F Equals twice the stand plus 1/2'. (Total
I and II Square this Hne frofn line D - E.
A to 8 - 1/2'. Ora* lower neck at center front. (aboit V and VI
B to C - This equals neck measure to center back - do*n frcm line D - F to shoulder
Square
8' for size 16). Draw straight line, B to C. F to G
B then connect from G to H, drawing
to H - 5':
Ill sltQhtly curved lines at neck and outer edge.
collar;
C to 0 - 1-3/4', Tfiis equals stand at Hack of ^
Make upper collar 1/8" wider as shown. Add seams.
then connect D to E. (0 to £ equals C to E). '

HOW TO DRAFT SLEEVE wide to fit Iwer sleeve.

'^Oraft cuff 3-1/2'
and 1 1 '
I
Divide sleeve into 2 parts, from shoulder notch
Using the coat sleeve foundation, taKe out the
elbow dart by making a tuck in back, to nothing^
y
I
to bottom; then draw slash line across cap; 3'
from top.
in front as shown In diagraffl II.
J
IV
Deepen sleeve cap at sides (1/2*). This corres- ,

ponds with the deeper armhole of the coat. j

Separate the 2 sleeve sections: then slash from />
center to sides and spread 1/2'. This provides'l
111 !
extra room for shoulder pad.
Make sleeve 3/4" wider at each side as indicated.,'
This corresponds with the coat increase at side V and VI
of armhole. Draw sides of sleeve slightly curved. cuff and facing in one section;then add
lutake
>

Make sleeve 1/4' wider at each side of cap. hem at bottom. Add seam.

YOKE
4 1
T

V
r-j 1
BACK \

DRAFT Of COAT (STYLE 2)

flares concen-
This coat features the 2-piece back «lth the
trating near center bacl<, below yoke.
the folds
The bias oralo of ooods at center back will permit
of the flares to fail more softly.
I and II
Trace coat back foundation; then deepen armhole and add to
side seam same as for style I. Draft yoke as indicated.
Ill and IV
For flare al lowance, dra» slash lines, 2-1/2" apart; then
slash and spread as shown in diagram IV.
Draft back the required lenotn, addinj 1' at center back hip^ -,-7-/7/
as shown by dotted lines and adding hem at bottom.
Add seams on all edges except at center back of yoke.
'l'y//7//77/7//MSi!/77//l/-''
j u/xy ^^-i u a
 Page VIII LOUSE WITH SHIRTWAIST COLLAR
(How to draft and orada the pattern - Part I)

G '
H

-til-

Hi^L^^"!" 'fioj*" Toss foundation as a

ouide, but omit sl'oi'l^er seam,
tracing the wist darts. \ 1° iri.i.^,J°'.'"'i cut off
'">"! the
front at shoulder,
Ijoner the front necl<line, to back yoke at shoulder as
and Jo n
1/3", and iSdlcatea?
>'^' center f foil, to
n^^" at
nothing side.
fn'
n fmn'f'''S„2"S"f"'
tront and back
"les
Ij"«;then slash and spread as shown by dotted
S^'JI"^ spread as shown in diaaram
^'^'loXlioX^O II?
«ntelTon{"li?ef="" ,'.

iH;.,"?* certain that slash lines are

?JfI* ''f'^'" ,"^=1' center baclc lines, and that they are kept
'5^ section and close in center
i^J'!hl"^?i;!'S
up the i/4' dart ss sho«n in diaoram 11°
Jok.'Kac'k.

Blouse features I- forward

shoulder seam.
It has shirring front and
in
back below the yoke, and
'r°n' IS. also fitted with
fing'th'."*^'

s'{L*''trU?""
\ ; u tr; ! I
French cuff Is about 2-1/2'
wide, finished.
Draw V-shaped da"ifront and back,'
In
froii waist to hip as shown by dotted facing' as indicated. The
lines.
For closing overlap, add 3/4' to center of Si;? ni "f,"'"" 'i • separate pattern
ront. ece
r
,,SithVfroit. 1

Mark positions for buttonholes (about «dd seams on all sewing edges;
3-1/2" apart). corresponding notches,

HOW TO DRAFT THE COLl/IR

< to B - l/2\ Draw lower neck line. E to F - ?-l/2'. This equals E to D plus
1-1/2- (total 2-1/2"). Square
B to C - Draw straight ine.
i this line from line E - C.
B to D - Eouais neck measure fron? center V
front to center back (about 7-1/4" F to G - Square this line from line
for size 16). Continue straight E-F.
B to H - 5"; then connect G to H, drawing
tine from C to D. si ightly curved I Ine.
III VI
D to E - I This equals stand at back Draw grain line parallel to front edge
of collar: then connect E to C. of collar. Add seams.
 B L O 0S E -S LE E VE AND GRADING Page IX
(How to draft and grade the pattern - Part 2)

GATHERS 2H'
FACING^'
- CUFF 2ii

vm TO DRAFT THE SLEEVE IV

at front
Shorten sleeve as follows: 2" at each side: f\lt'
I »7id U slash' 1-1/2" at back slash at which point
draw a slash
Using the dress sleeve foundation, lake out the elbow dart
,

line 2' long for back opening.

by malslng a tuck in back of sleeve to nothing in front;
then dra« straight lines frou eibo» to urist at each side Make a facing I' longer than sleeve opening, and 2-1/2" wide.
as indicated.
for
Make the french cuff 2-I/4' "g-l/S' (for size 16).
To alio« for gathers at bottom, divide sleeve into. 4 eoual the double cuff make the turn back wide.
parts. Hark sections A to D;then slash along dotted lines
and spread as shown in diagram IV. Add seams in sleeve and cuff.

GRADING SIZE 16 to 18
Chart shows where and ho*
much pattern is graded from
one si ze to another.
Use method of grading by
shifting pattern, step-by-
step, as shown on page 83.
The grade is based on an
Increase of I-I/2' around
bust instead of 2", which
means 3/8" grade from cen-
ter front to side seam, etc.

GOAD KG CHART
I

Below is a chart of graded

sizes, 12 to 20, showing
the 5 graded sizes of the
?attern pieces, as welt as
he dress form in the b sizes.

FOLD CUTTING LAYOUT

Cutting diagram shows how
to ayI pattern pieces on
36" fabric.
The yoke and cuffs are
laid crosswise. The collar
sections are laid length-
wise at front edge to avoid
stretching.
The facings for collar and
cuff are shown in dotted
I Ines.

SELVEDGES
 .

Page X BLOUSE WITH TURTLE-NECK COLLAR

To draft the dropped shoul-

der pattern, trace outline
of dress foundation with
shoulders even at neck line,
and I" apart at armhole.
II
For the dropped shoulder
outline, draft as follows:
A to B - l-t/2".
C to D - 1-1/2".
B to e - Connect.
B to E - Eojals half of B to 0.
E to F - Connect.
Ill
B to G - 1-1/2" (square a
I ne down at B)
i

D to H - \-\/2\
6 to E ~ Connect.
E to H - Connect.
E to - \/2\
I

G to*H - Craw curved line

through i.
Blouse has a back clo^
Draw curved line at each ing, and features di-
side of the underarm seam agonal side dart f t-
above points G and H as ting in front.
I

shown by dotted tines.

The turtle neck col lar
For lenoth of blouse, draw is cut on the bias and
lower Tine in front and has about I " stand at
back 6' below waistline. center front.
For back closing overlap,
^add 3/4" to center back.
For diagonal side dart,
draw slash line in front,
then slash and close up
front dart as shown in dia-
gram IV. Draw V-shaped dart
away from breast point.
The waist darts in front
and back are joined below
waisti ine only.
IV
For armhote facing, place
shoulders together of front
and back and trace outline
of armhole, making facing
1-1/2" wide as indicated.
Add 2" hem at back opening;
then add seams to complete
the pattern.
Mark positions for button-
holes as shown.

TURTLE-NECK COLLAR DRAFT

Trace front; then draft

A col lar as fol lows:
B A to B - Draw straight lire.
/
A to C - Eaual&neck measure
FRONT I FRONT I from center front
to center back(about
7" for size 16).
II'
A to 0 - e-3/B'. This equals
" for stand plus
I

-3/8' for turn back.

I

Ill
A / A / D to E - Equais ine A to B. I

IV
FRONT 'v FRONT "v E to C - Connect; then draw
curved I ine at point E,

V
Trace for double material ^
collar.
»'
Trace for entire col lar;
then add seams.
Collar has extra allowance
for ease at neck edae.This
wi 1 1 at low the col I ar to
roll enough to cover neck
seam line.
BLOUSE WITH SHAWL COLLAR & PEPLUM Page XI

Blouse features dropped shoulders and close-

fittino waistline »lth waist darts in front
and baclt.

Front and collar are in one section.

Use the drcoped shoulder foundation and separate

the hip sections of front and hncli.

It
Close up front dart, spreading waist dart as
indicated: then add 3/4" to center front for
front closino overlap. Marls positions tor hut-
holes as shown below on front.

6" 'onjitj!"
For peplum.make the hi" sections
jllvlde each section Into 3equal parU
and marR
ihem A to F.

For circular peplum, s ash th' ««*'?D?

X'J
against the
from lower edge up, and place them bottom.
square as Indicated. Draw circular line at

Add I
•
hem at center fwnt and lower circular edge.

HO* TO DRAFT SHAWL COLLAR AND FRONT IN ONE

I

A to B - Equals back of neck (3- for size 16).

Square this line up from shoulder line.

II
B to C - 1/4"; then connect C to A.

Ill
1-1/4' for stand
C to 0 - 2-3/4". This equals -1/2'
of collar at center back p us
for turn back. Square this line at
point C.
ly
To complete the col lar and front In one, draw
3- lono
a squared line from point D.about ""J
then continue the line slightly curved to edge
of front.

V and VI
Draft facing for front and collar as indicated,
making the facing l/B" «i Ja-" at col lar and
shown
lapel,and 1/8" longer at center back as
by dotted lines.
the
Add seams on all sewing edges to complete
blouse pattern.
Page XII TWO-PIECE S E M I - C I R C nLAR SKIRT

This skirt is cut so that center

front and back are on the hi as, the
right side seam on the lengtniiise
grain and the left side seam on the
crosswise grain.

To draft the sl<irt, use the plain

2-piece sliirt foundation as a guide.

Trace outline of front and back, but

continue side seam lines straight
to the top as Indicated.

II
Divide each skirt section into 3 eoual
parts as shown by dotted lines and
mark sections A to F; then reduce
•aistline by draning V-shaped lines
from waist to hipline as Indicated.

Ill
Reduce waistline In front by slash-
ing from bottom to hipline, and bringing
sections A, B and C together above
hipl Ine as 11 lustrated.

Repeat process for back of skirt.

For the semi-circular skirt, make

slashes in skirt front from nip to
waistline; then spread, placing sec-
tions * and C against the 46* tri-
angle for a perfect bias at center
front.

Repeat process for skirt back.

Draw circular lines for bottom of

skirt.

For waistband, make a double band

1-1/2" wide finished, and the length
of the waist measure, plus 3/4" ex-
tension for left side opening.

To complete the pattern, add seams

on all sewing edges, and add I* hem
at bottom. Make corresponding notches.

Diagram shows cutting layait for skirt.

Dotted lines Indicate other half of

front and back.
 —

S K I H WITH AND POCKET Page XIII

DRAFT OF FRONT
I

Usino the skirt front foundation as

a ouide.draw slasii line
from bottom
then
to side at liip as indicated,
sissli and spread for extra
sweep at
bottom as shovin in dlaaram II.

n
Draw diaoonal line for pocl^et open-
outline
ino as indicated; then draw
'for Inset and pocliet on front of
sl^irt.

Trace each section separately as

shown In diagram III.

Ill
Draft the pocket facing, 2' wide, for
pocket opening as Indicated.
in-
Add 4" to center front for the
verted pleat.
fRONT OF SKIRT
DRAFT OF BACK
IV
Using the skirt back foundation as
a guide, draw slash line from
dart
to bottom as indicated; then separate
each section as shown In diagram V.

L_H!?J LINE For extra sweep at bottom add I" at

4" bottom to nothing at hip to each
section as shown by dotted lines.

VI
1 C D Draw the grain ne arrow on the
I i

side back by squaring a line from

hi pi ine.

1 BACK
VII
For waistband, make a double band
/ Z 1-1/2' wide finished and the length
of the waist measure plus 3/4" ex-
tension for left side openino.
4-
' .
To complete pattern, add seams and
i: r make corresponding notches.
BACK OF SKIRT
Add hem at bottom.

This skirt features an inverted pleat

at center front, with inset and pocket
at each side of front.
Back of skirt Is in 3 gores.
 e

Pa^e XIV HOW TO SCALE THE DRESS FOUNDATION

BACK
I
Mark around the dress back foun-
dat on then draw all sea
i
; I

lines, beginning from point A

at top of waist dart as follows:
A to C - Equals twice A to B.
A to E - Equals twice A to D.
A to G - Equals twice A to F.-
Continue to draw ai other I

scale lines, ending with line

A to S.
Draw straight li nes, connect no i

C to.O to M tO'K to I, and con-

necting G to E as shown in
diagram ii,
11. NECK AND ARMHOLE
Divide neck line into 4 equal
parts and divide armhole into
6 parts. Draw all scale lines
from point A through the di-
viding points ,mak no each line i

twice the length of line from

point A to the dividing point.
Draw curved neck ine from I

E to C and armhole line from

G to 1, connecting all points.
Mark point U on hipline as
fo ows: 1 1

A to U - Equals twrce A to T.

Ill and IV
Scale the waist dartas follows:
A to W - Equals twice A to V.
A to Y - Equals twice A to X.
Draw connecting nes f rem to U I i

to Y to complete the waist dart.

Connect from K to W to Y to 0
for waisti ine.

FRONT
I to IV
Mark around the dress front
f9undation; draw a! scale I

lines, beginning from point A

at top of waist dart, and using
same method as for sea no the I J
back foundation.

SLEEVE
Mark around sleeve; tnen di-
vide base of cap in half and
rv.ark point A in center.
Draw al I

scale ines from point A as

I

fol ows; I

A to C -
Equals twice A to B.
A to E -
Equals twice A to D.
A to 6 -
Equals twice A to F.
F to H -
Equals half of F to J.
Continue to draw af other I

scale lines ending with line

A to R; then draw connecting
1
1 nes from C to E to G to 1 to
K to M to 0
Q R C -^<^V^>V/--- diagrarr' ii.
to R as shown in

II and III
A to T - Equals twice A to S;
then connect 0 to T to M for
e I boft dart.
To sea le s eeve cap d v de I
, i i

cap outline into 3 equal parts; 1

then draw scale lines from

point A through the dividing
poi nts as ill ustrated.

HOV TO INCREASE THE 1/4 SCALE

?S^S^J9H"P*I'0" (FRONT, BACK
AND SLEEVE) TO FULL SCA^E SIZE.
Use sarpe method of scaling as
described for the half scale
foundation, but making the lines
equal 4 times the length in-
stead of twice the length.
 HOW TO USE THE NECK & A B MH O I, E GUIDE Page XV

SHOULDER
SLOPE

The "neck and armhole guide' was especially II. BACK ARMHOLE
devised to aid the student in drawing att Place 'guide* to the annhole of the foundation
curved outlines (neck and armhole) when draft- so tiiat the shoulder and side seam lines are
ing the fitted front and back in size 16 as even. Viark annhole.
shown on page 8. For other sizes, it is ne-
cessary to shift 'guide' to the desired posi- FRONT NECK
III.
tion while marking the curved tines.
Place 'guide' to the neck of foundation
so that center front and shoulder slope lines are
even; then nark neck line.
I. BACK NECK
After completing all straight lines for back
of draft, place 'guide* to neck of draft, IV. FRONT ARMHOLE
having the shoulder slope and center back Place 'guide' to armfwle of foundation so that
lines even;then mark back of neck from shoul- the shoulder and side seam lines are even; then
der to center back. mark armhole from shoulder to side seam.

ANOTHER USE FOR THE 'GUIDE'

This 'guide' may be used to draft a complete

fitted waist front and back (size 16) in a
short space of time and without the use of a
square.
Draft foundation as follows:

Place 'guide' in upright position and draw

armhole outline; then continue to rule shoul-
der and side seam lines as follows:
A to B - 5 - Back shoulder.
C to D - 4-3/4 - Front shoulder.
E to P - 8-1/4 - Back side seam.
E to G - 8-1/4 - Front side seam.

II.
To draw back neck and center back tines, place
'guide' with back shoulder slope in a straight
line with tine A-6, at point B.
K to I- 16 - Center back length.
Before drawing center back
ine,
f see that J to K is
, 7'.f4' below H).
Draw neck and center back lines.
III.
To draw frontneck and center front lines, place
'guide' with front shoulder slope in a straight
Itne with line D-C, at point D.
L to M - 15 - Center front length.
Before drawing center front
line, see. that N to 0 is,-
FRONT 6-5/8'. (3" below L).
Draw neck and center front lines.
IV.
To complete the draft of front and back, draw
waistline and draft darts according to direc-
tions given on page 6.
 1 .

Page XVI JACKET & COAT FOUNDATION REFERENCE

PRELIMINARY STEPS
FITTED WAIST FOUNDATION DRESS FOUNDATION (HIP LENGTH)-
Draft on page 8 Draft on page 1
in order to make patterns for
jackets or cOats, a foundation
must first be made for the
front, back, and sleeve. This
can be accomplished quite sim-
pty by using the follcwing steps:

1. Draft the fitted waist

foundation according to in-
structions given on page 8.
2. After completing the draft
of the front and back, use
it as a guide to draft the
dress foundation (hip length)
as shown on page 1 1

3. Finally, draft the dress

sleeve foundation as shcwi on
page 12.

These are the pre imi nary steps

t

necessary before mak ng the i

Jacket or coat foundations which

are shown on page 66.

JACKET FOUNDATION -

THE JACKET FOUNDATION

Draft on page 66
Al jackets which are worn over
1

a blouse or dress, require extra

ease allowance around bust,
waist, hip, neck and arm.

Bv lowering the neck line 1/8',

this will automatically In-
crease the neck edge to the
correct size (about 1/2' larger
than dress neck edge).

The armhole must be lowered at

least 1/2* to give the neces-
sary cofflfort when jacket Is
worn over blouse or dress.

Sleeve should be made about I'

larger around muscle and elboiv,
and about 1/2* longer than dress
sleeve, measuring froflt cap to
wrist.

COAT FOUNDATION - THE COAT FOUNDATION

Draft on page 66
Coats should be made large enough
so that when worn over a dress
it will fit comfortably and at
the same time, represent the
correct size. Therefore, the
ease allowance around the body
and arm, and the depth of
armhol e.shou Id be proportion-
ately greater than that of the
jacket foundation.

The method as shown on page 66

indicates the minimum ease al-
lowance which is suitable for
the fitted coat, such as the
reefer or princess coat.

The box-coat however

, requires
,

extra ease around bust and hip,

and often a slightly deeper
armhole. This type of coat can
be worn over a suit.
 PAGE
PAGE
.. 79
HOOD DRAFT
BATHROBE DRAFT ^2.
PRINCESS DRESS DRAFT
HOUSECOAT DRAFT
BLOUSE WITH PEPLUM * JACKET DRAFTING
-
BLOUSE (Tuck-ln) WITH YOKE 29
BOLERO AND ETON DRAFT ^
BOLERO JACKET •• '2 CARDIGAN JACKET DRAFT ^
BRA DRAFTING iSrifEEVE-FouNOAtioN':;:;:: el
BRASSIERE DRAFT «^
CARDIGAN JACKET DRAFT g iffil ^i^^-=:\\\v:.-:. I
COMBINATION (Brassiere and Panties) WITH PEPLUM „
to 19
NECKLINES (Cowl neck and high necklines)
.. 17
79 to 82
CAPE DRAFTING . 100
57 NIGHTGOWN DRAFT •

CIRCULAR SKIRT . 98
COAT DRAFTING - , PAJAMA TOP DRAFT •

BOX COAT DRAFT ^ PAJAMA TROUSERS DRAFT (lono and short) 99

CHESTERFIELD DRAFT g
66 PINAFORE DRAFTING <2 styles) °^
DRAFT OF COAT FOUNDATION
PRINCESS (Reefer) DRAFT 'g PLAVSUIT DRAFT (Waist and Shorts)
27
WITH DEEP NOTCH COLLAR |6 PRINCESS DRESS DRAFT - HOUSECOAT DRAFT
WITH RAGLAN SLEEVE iS PRINCESS SLIP DRAFT ^5
WITH SHAWL COLLAR "
COLLAR DRAFTING -
FLAT FITTING COLLAR -. ;
g
,„ ^''»E'a^ FOUNDATION g
MANNISH SHIRT WAIST COLLAR t^ai^iamK^stiiisi:;;;;;;::;:
NOTCH COLLAR DRAFT ^ d^aKIng- is-stiiur :;:
ROLL FITTING COLLAR .,
VEST AND COLLAR IN ONE
: :
;
yifU
,a
COWL NECK DRAFTING - r,
CULOTTES DRAFT SLEEVE DRAFTING - 40
-
DRESS DRAFTING ^'AT'kfPEVE" S DiiioN-bRAFt;
:
.
ei
DARTLESS FRONT 12"^
i;:
DRESS FOUNDATION IHIp length)
IIi ORESS SLEEVE FOUNDATION DRAFTING
EVENING GOWN DRAFT SS
FULL LENGTH DRESS FOUNDATION
i!ffiit^i;!^EB?fl°^"^'^^::::::::::-i^i
ii-i^ifi
" t° 28
FUNDAMENTAL DRESS DESIGNS fSid'^fip^^b^i^E^ETRpTiNG ie'stiies)-.;
:
:
iaz- tij
HIGHER NECKLINE DESIGNS
PRINCESS DRESS DRAFT ^'
ETON JACKET '2

FITTED BODICE DRAFTING , . , ft

BODICE FCWNOATION (Regu ar size$) 6-7
BODICE FOUNDATION (Spec al Measurements) SHORTS DRAFTING
FITTED ZlCES WITH Bap AND .9 ^'^fo °^
FRENCH FITTED BODICE (2 styles) 1" SLACKS AND SLIM PANTS DRAFTING
GRADING - SUP DRAFTING - gg
85 BIAS SLIP DRAFT |§
HALF SIZES 86
g? PRINCESS SUP DRAFT g=
JUNIOR SIZES
LADIES SIZES ^ STRAIGHT SLIP DRAFT IV %^
Etc.)90 to 93 L^
'
:87-88-89 UNDERGARMENT DRAFTING (Bras, Panties,
RAGLAN IlEEVE; kittONO' SLEEVE', ETC.

printed In U* S* A.
ILLUSTRATED INDEX
 FORSWORD
student as well
This book is dedicated to the
manufacturing industry
as the worker In the .garment
the art of pattern
who is interested in learning
drafting and grading.
industry and
The enormous growth of the garment
designs which calls
the constant development of new patterns, re
in making
for expert craftsmanship this subject to
ieals the need of a text book in the trade.
meet with the every day problems of
Principles of
The book contains the fundamental
most practical
pattern drafting and grading, and the
accordance with the
Slthod of making patterns in herein is pre
sketch of the garment. Each problem design, the
tented with an illustration of the
in successive
method of making the pattern shown description
stages, and the text, giving a detailed
of each step.
the
to the author's vast experience
i"
Due
plus C9nstant
trade and years of teaching in schools, "sed in this
research on\h is subject, the method
book is most modern, elaborate and instructive
esson s also intended to seo/e as a fundamental
Each i
in the trade
background to the advanced mechanic
as wel I as to the beginner.
cations to a r-
Many students have the Oual fi i

others have
utirallv design or create new styles;
pattern makers
thi abi ty to be?ome good technical
are fortunate to possess
and araders- still othirs of
both'qualificltions. It was wi th t e thought
this text dook
helping these various groups that
was prepared.
Dr. William
The author is deeply indebted to
e High School
H Doolev of the Straubenmul ler Textiguidance
I

and
SfK vork, for his inspirational
invaluable counsel on this subject.
Mr. L. Samuels
The author is also grateful to P. Difatte
nf the Textile Evening School, and to Mr.
Needle Trade Even ng
a^Mr. I. Curtifof Central
i

and cooperation, in
IShoo for their kind assistance book.
preparing subject matter for this
 PATTERN DRAFTING
INTRODUCTION
Pat terfl Drafting As
Applied to
Women's Garment Designing
The most important
women
contribution tn th<.
s garment industry is the system of nptJ^rn

"""^
:^jr2it^°gV:a%^:?«sp^irin^%^?fc^L^v^"^

aeiigning. kLlT'"^"
desiani'"nn'"° bketch ng or q -^"f
^
"'"e^' "^tlod of
na stvlp.; c an^*i,„ i

Fashion an ilts exp lss

"^H'V^J-
by. sketching new designs ^hef
'Jtft for women" glr-
sketclies are general ly used
rf^i"' J^^^^ by pat-
"'''^^'^ ^°
glfments"'" ^"^ ^ nlw IlL"^ of

ci.nill!®'^''^-!"', °' pattern drafting or flat de-

tt'e ?"St and hij. Fl at des ig^ is so cal ed

i
'g I

ed"o^^1rI??in^"*ia^p%?«^'«" ^ ^'--^ an%%°e$^'ip^^

f iflSre
'
li^J;H'' """^ ^° a guide to^™Pl« size
^iJtlr; rfor i!
pattern draft the
the new design. Style lines seams
?re planned in acci?da^ce
?hl'!{-
the style. The outlines of the Sith
pattern pieces are
then traced, seams are allowed/the
cor?elpondina
li'^^lcZfltt-X^r^
nlpu,I?for^i"?hrfg2^Jl[?or?If{2?n^?^ '£rea?t;
Illustrated and outlined in this text book t
"'"""^ ?f Pattefn making- frol
t e°ske[c '"nf^fh flarment to the finished
tern? pat-

tunitJ''ln every oppor-

i^^mH* ° proportions of the sketched
garment and to apply the style
lines to the cor-
responding positions in the draft. To insurp
 DIRECTIONS FOR TAKIKG MEASUREMENTS 5

I'irst have the person wear a plain dress or blouse, with

•Ihen drafting a foundation pattern for the human figure,
it is not only important to take the necessary measure- a hitJi neckline, regular ai-mliole, and plain set-in-sle«ve;
then arrange a tape or thin cord around bust and waist-
ments, but also to take them correctly.
line rather closely, as illustrated,
For best results, students should first practice taking
measurements of the dress form (for drafting purposes; Before taking the measurements, place pins pn the garment
before taking measurements of the human figure. at the positions indicated on figures I and II, as follows:
I

I
- Center back at neck.
2 - Center back at waistline.
3 - Shoulder seam at armhoie.
4 - Shoulder seam at neck.
5 - Side seam at armhoie.
6 - Side seam at waistline.
II
7 - Center front at neck.
8 Center front at waistline.
-

Use a standard tape measure to take all the measurements on the

figure; use the tailor's square or triangle to draft the
pattern.

*hen taking the front and back measurements (from side to side
This will
it bust line), have the person take a deep breati;.

lowance around
brovide the fitted waist with the necessary ease al
example: * size model measures 34" around bust, but
bust. For 16
36» to 36-1/2.
after taking a deep breath she will measure between
All dress forms have the chest expansion allowance.
should include the chest ex-
Therefore the fitted waist pattern
pansion allowance or else the side seans will tend to np.

THE USE OF THE

TAILOR'S SOUARE

Diagram shows impprtant

construction lines in
the draft of the back.
It demonstrates the usa
of the square in minia-
ture forms.

When drafting the back,

the f rst line to be
i

drawn is the center back

ine.This serves as the
i

backbone of the draft

just as the center back
IS the backbone of the
Illustration above shows the relative positions between f igu re.
the figure and the waist pattern, it also iustrates
i i

some of the important corresponding points at waistline,

neck and armhoie depth, rfs follows: Al other points in the
I

draft must be located

WAISTLINE - According to the present by ruling squared lines
style trend, the waistline slopes with great prsclslon.
at a slight angle, making the waist- Mark a noticeable dot
line 1/2" lower at center front, at the end of each drawn
and 1/4" lower at side seam than line.
at center back, as indicated at
points A, 8 and C.

NECK - The posture of the figure

brings tlie back of neck, point D, II and III
about ?• higher than front of
These diagrams show sep-
neck, point E, (measuring from
arate relative positions
the floor level). between the figure and
the pattern of the back
ARMHOLE DEPTH - Point F_ at armhoie and front sections.
is located about 1° below the arm-
pit of the human figure. This
applies to a dress wither without
sleeves. For the normal figure,
only halfof the pattern
slope is needed, (from center
SHOULDER SIjOPE - The normal back to center front).
of the shoulder brings the point
at armhoie about 2* tower than at
neck.
For a noticeable di f-
ference between the left
WAIST DARTS - The darts in front and and right side of the
back give the garment a smooth and figure, an «nti re front
close fit at the waistline. and back pattern is re-
quired.
 —

DRAFT OF FITTED BODICE BACK

(Special Measurement Method)
HOW TO DRAFT THE FITTED WAIST FOUNDATION
PATTERN
The fol lowing diaarams sho* how to take
the necessary
measurements on the figure and how to draft
the pattern. VIM. SIDE WAIST DEPTH
* to N Draw a Ine from A to
I

The dotted lines in the drafting diaoranis represent the N, locating point N
'XlWe llTek?' ""'^^ S'oStf " somewhere on line K-l
for side waist depth.

IX. SIDE SEAM LENGTH

I. CENTER BACK LENGTH N to 0 Draw side seam line,
A to- B From neck to waist.
0 to P Square a line across
Draw this line for cen- from 0 to center back
ter back line.
Q to 0 ^|9"ai"e a line up from
^ Q to 0.
0 to R.,.1" Draw a diagonal line.
1 to 0 Draw the armhole from
Ito D to R to 0,

II. ACROSS BACK

A to C Equals 1/4 of line A-B. X. SACK WAISTLINE
C to D Equals half of width N to H Connect for waistline.
across back.
S to T Square a line up to T.
Square a II he across
to D; For dart, reduce re-
I. then extend
I ine about 3". quired amount each side

\ of S,to nothing at T,

III. BACK SHOULDER HEIGHT

B to E Equals length from
waist to shoulder, at
neck. Tape is parallel
to center back line.

Extend center back line

up above A.

IV. BACK BODY WIDTH

E to F Equals half of back plus
\ i\\ NO SEAMS ARE ALLOWED /
1/4' ease a lowance.I

Square a line across

E to F,
F to G Square a ns down
I i
,-1--®lD_V J HiuiluiliuJuiliiC ij

froi» F to line C-D.

V. BACK SHOULDER SLOPE

6 to H il?' Square a line across
at B.
H to I Draw a line from H to
I, marking point I

somewhere on line F-G

for shoulder slope.

VI. BACK SHOULDER SEAM

I to J Equals shoulder, plus
/4' ease al towance.
I

Locate J somewhere on
ine E-F.
I Then draw
shoulder line.
J to A Draw a curved line for
back of neck.

VII. FULL BACK WIDTH

B to K Extend line down 1/4'.
K to L Equals half of back,
measuring to side seam
at armhole.
Square a ine across
I

from center back line

at K.
L to M Square a ne up" from
I i

L to line C-D.
 DRAFT OF FITTED BO DICE FRONT
(Special Measurement Method)
IX. SI DE SEAM LENGTH
to M Draw side seam line.
I. CENTER FRONT LENGTH l_

ne across
u
M to n
N Square a I i

A to B fro" "8Ck to waist- j^^^ ijj^ ^i^jgr fr„„t.

line. This measurement
is taken alono center 0
to u
0 lo
u Square a line up to 0.
front from the tiase of Continue to the top.
the necit to the waist- 0 to P ^7/8'._Draw a diagonal line.
line. Draw the armhole from
n to m"
H »
Draw line from A to B ^ to D to P to M.
for center front line.
X. FRONT WAISTLINE
II. ACROSS CHEST o to 0 First locate 0 atcross-
A ina of diagonal lines
A to C .About 1/5 of 1 1 ne
and D to B;
N to L,
and B,
then square a ine a- 1

C to D Equals half of width cross from R to 0.

across cheet. Equals R to 0 less 1/2".
ne across B to S
Square a I i
Equals reductions at
C to D; then extend S to T
front waistl ine.
line about 3'.
Make dart by drawing
equal length fines from
III. FRONT SHOULDER HEIGHT Q to S and 0 to Ti then
Equals lenath from connect from T to L.
B to E
waist to shoulder, at If measurement across
neck. fullest part of bust
Tape is paral lei to , Is greater than line
center front I ine. ',N to M, cut out dart
and slash from Q '° !i
(2' from P). Spread
needed amount at 0,
pivoting at U. (This
also helps to reduce
IV. FRONT BODY Wl OTH armhole slightly).
c to F .Square a line across
t
^ ^^^^ J
This line equals half
of front at shoulder
seam.
f to G Square a linedo«n from

FRONT SHOULDER SLOPE

B to H. Equals length from cen-
ter front waist to
shoulder at armhole.
Mark point H somewhere
on line F-G for shoul-
der slope.

VI. FRONT SHOULDER SEAM

H to Draw a ne f roin H to
I i

1 locating some- I

where on ine E-F. I

A to I. For front neckline,

draw a curved line froj
A to I, passing 1/2'
from crossi ng of guide
llries.as 11 lustrated.

VII. FULL FRONT WIDTH

B to J Square a line across
ftt B. L * , 1

This line equals half

of front, measuring
across bust to side
seam, at armhole.
J to K Square a line up from
J to ine C-D.
1

VIII. SIDE WAIST DEPTH

A to L Equals length from cen-

side at waist.
Mark point L somewhere
on ine J-K.
I
 . .

DRAFT OP PITTED BODICE

MISSES 12-20

Equals Center Back Lenptli.

Equals about j of Ce'H^Bark nnth U
Equals i of Across Back
Measurement.'
Equals shoulder height line.
Equals line C-D, plus .

Equals shoulder slope d eotti.

Equals Shoulder seam (f ease^i nc hiri^dr~
or back o f neck.
Equals Side Seam Length, less
i'-.
Jquals i of mil Back Width measurem ent
E quals Side Seam Lenpth.
Square across at point L. '

'
Connect for Side Seam ling.
Equals i of J-K line.
connect to complete the »alstTTneT
Square a line domn from point
0 to line .l-K"
Draw a diagonal line at 45'> annTaT
Draw back armhole line from
G to D to P to k
»idth of dart at waistline:
Equals distance from U to center
of N-Q.
For dart, connect from N to R to
0.

-
Eqiia Is '

l /g of' Across ^h^tjeasurement

-

Equals '~
shoulder hei ght line.^
Equals line C-0 plus }
Equals shoulder slo pe^d^MjT
Equals Shoulde r Spam^

cross at A , and squa rmji from H, as i I lus

sue 16 (wi th I/8- gra de for each two sizes)
Equals j oi mn
front Wldth~agiiU?aii^
Equals Side Seam Lennth.
Square a line down from point 0 to line
J-K
Draw adiagonal line 45° angle,
uraw iront armhole line f rom t! -

to D tn N to k.
Equals about foT B to C on center
frHiit
Equals about j of 6-f ||ne
Equals 0 to less i".
Connect
Equals width of dart at waistline.
Equals length of Ine 0-P I

connect to complete the waisti fneT

5 measurements 4 and 6 on the

back.and 9 and in ™e^\u^'fe^rS^?t" MM'j^^^S;
-"--"t
itn-iiToU^r- ti'^r*s?e;:a"iiu:?°??„n.rsf:

Li- CENItK BACK IFNCTH

'

, 2 ACKUSS BACK
"
SHOULDER SFAm'
...4 FULL BACK WIDTH
SlUt SEAM IFNCTH
'
,
6 BACK WAI.STI INF

CENIER FROM IFHCTu"

8 ACHUSS CHEST
'

l-ULL FRONT WIDTH

BACK 10 fHONI WAISTI INF
FRONT
 2 STYLES OP PITTED BODICES

BODICE BACK WITH KECK DART

BODICE FRONT WITH 3 WAIST DARTS
.'1 njustration shows waist dart omitted,.
1
Diagrams IV, V and vx show how to eliminate the walst\
front foundation; then square a line across
; ;

Trace the i 1 dart, and how to form the neck dart. \

at tap of dart.
For the 3 darts, first trace part of the first dart, I !
" \

Trace the back foundatloni tlien eliminate the Waist

.

from A to A-l. I
'.dart by reducing I' at waistline to nothing at armhole
'
,

II ! "near side seam. Mark sections 0 and E. ;

Mark tire position for the top of the 3 darts i' apart \ V
between A, B and C. Bring sections 0 and E together; then draw new center
j

Make the space at lower part of the first dart, be-., back line, by adding 1/4' at necif and reducing 1/2' |

tween A-l and A-2, l/3 .of the single dart In the front at waistline, as shown by dotted line. |
foundation.
Ill
Complete the second and third dart (saje size as first), Make the neck dart 1/4' wide and 3' long; 1-1/2" from,/
making the space 3/4" wide between each dart at walst- ceijter back. . .y
1 Ine.

11
BODICE WITH 3 SHOULDER TUCKS 3 tuck lines.
Cut out front; then slash along theandolose up the
- Place front on another sheet of PaPjr
evenly for the
1 lustration shows 3 tucks at shoulder
1
and no darts waist darts to spread section A-B-C-D
3 shoulder tucks. Pin to position.
at the waist Ine.
I

The garment fits closely at the wai st 1 1 ne and smoothly

over the bust. Ill
Trace front and mark shoulder tucks in ddtted linos,
and
According to the design, the tucks may be made as In- making the left tuck 8" long, center tuck 4-3/4",
side or outside tucks. In appearance, both ways are the right, 4-1/2".
decorative; In fitting value, both serve the same
purpose.
ivand V
Cut outfront in muslin and make the 3 shoulder tucks,
as shown in the diagrams.
Use the front with the 3 waist darts as a guide; then Press tucks toward the center front.
mark positions for the 3 tucks as follows: First draw As a rule, tuck lines are parallel to the center front
the center tuck line, from the center of shoulder to line, or slant slightly toward the center front, at
the middle dart; then draw a line I' each side of the lower part of tucks..
center line, and mark sections A-B-C-D.
 .

10 2 STYLES OP FITTED BODICES

FRENCH riTTEO BODICE

I
I Mustratlons show front and back vle» of French
bodice.

fr°"* Includino the darts;

«%"hoSrby dotte"d

111
Divide Front into two parts as follows:
A to 6 —
Equals front shoulder.
A to C —
Equals 1/2 of shoulder,
C to D —
Draw line from C to D, at top of dart.
Divide Back into two parts as follows:
Eto F —
Equals A to C on- front shoulder
F to G —
Draw line from F to S, at top of dart.
H —
Center between F-G.
I to J
J to H
—
Equals B to C on front shoulder.
—
Connect.
For the orain lines, mark arrows on side
by squaring from thebust line. sections

IV
2" apart, slimlnating the
Ir?ff waistline and the dart at the back
shiifde?!
curved line In side- section of front
point D as shown by dotted line. at

For the first fittlna, add seams on

the edges, as
shown in the diaqrafn.
Make correspondinq notches as indicated.
Use two sinqle notches in front, one above
bust curve and one below. the

!if2. S'"'.' "5*' pattern for a oarment, allow

seams also at jieck, armhole and waistline.

VI
This diaaram shows fittino partly joined.
First Join the front sections, matchinq notches'
^iS2«-"'i:/""'* "'.f"^ sections °Join sidJ
open, before joining
Kde"seS:r

BODICE WITH LOVI NECKLINE *

III

with

iii.f ir!i'?!!^.5!;£"'i '5 running from is usual ly dropped

waistline to armhole instead of to shoulder sean. \?b^u{°55io?'fSii3?„^t«rde^?f^
f™"*' 1-1/2". as lllus-
'ult^d"*
II
Trace front and back foundation and shift position
darts as shown by dotted lines; then draw seam line of.
from' "0
top of darts to armholes In front and back. isih'ojrj;°d"StVe°d''i?s?s"!
Mark sections A, B, C and D.
lowance and notches are to be
al
made in the same manner as for
t(i» French fitted bodice!
 n

DRESS FOUNDATION HIP LENGTH

HO* TO DRAFT THE ORESS FOUNDATION
to draft the dress foun-
Use the fitted «aUt foundation as a out de
dation, as follows:
EASE ALLOWANCE FOR THE DRESS FOUNDATION
I

and back.
lines. Trace the waist darts in front

C„t oulHhf
datlon as follows:
ilU'??oWh^airt:^S^ifK r» oress fo.n-

13 15 17
SIZE 1 I

HIP 32 34 36 38
A to B 6-5/8 6-3/4 6-7/8 7

B to C 8-1/2 9 9-1/2 10

F to C
G to H 6-1/8 6-1/4 6-3/S 6-1/2
H to J" 8-1/2 9 9-1/2 10

to K 6-3/8 6-1/2 6-6/8 6-3/4

J
length (about 2 ).
Square a line across at K, indefinite
slash 'rom L to M, and
To complete the front draft,
waist dart from N to M and 0 to M; then
iSt oSt the so that point P
pivoting at POi"' .s«'"0 front
K. as sno*n
touches the squared line near poi nt
i

diagram III.
III. COMPLETING THE WAIST, DART
dart in front
Connect P to J; then complete the waist
as fo ows1 1

H to Eciuat sspace, L to M.
N to • Connect.
- Connect.
same manner
Sake dart*n"hacii. below waistline in
In front. , .

slant" dress
This completes the draft of the "chest
foundation. No seams are allowed.
"shoulder darf
See directions below for maKlns the
or the "side- dart" dress foundation

HOVI TO DRAFT THE SHOULDER DART FRONT

similar to the
The method of drafting' this front jf with one ex
draft of the "cliest slant" foundation, front
ceptlon that instead of slashing fro» cente
to breast point L to M) you si ash. from center of
( ,
at
point to M and pivot front
shoulder to breast L
squared line near
pSint M so that point P touches the
point K, as shown In di-agram II.
dart.
/'Connect P to J and make the waist
dart from shoul-/
To complete the .front, drai'v-shaped
der seam to about 2" above breast point.
to length at center front, to nothing at
Add 1/2"
side seam.
make the shoulder and
Cut out front In muslin; "hen dress form.
waist darts. Try muslin fitting on

HOW TO DRAFT THE SIDE DART FRONT

I ANC II , .

Repeat method of drafting the 'ro"! ^"1

seam to breast
for the side dart; slash from side
front
point L to M, and swing lower side part of
so that point, P w toucl^ the
(pivoting at point M) ,
1
1

squared Tine near ^oint K, as shown in diagram

II.

foundation, connect P to J, and then

''to complete the
'
make the dart below waistline.
about 2 from,.-
Draw V-shsped dart from side seam to
breast point.
nothing at side seam^
Lengthen center front 1/2" to
as shown by dotted lines.
I»
form
Make muslin fitting and try on dress
12
OHE-PIBCE SHAPKD DRESS SLEEVE
(Draft From Dress Armhole)

kS?.*?.''!?'*.**" one-Piece shaped sleeve, uslna the arm-

hole of the dress foundation (size 16)
as a Sulde!
a^^Mls't'?Sfl';;fss\?^L%?^„7„"?'|S^ "'"^
The cap height measurement A to C,as
shown In diagram I, "O"""' the arm, about
l'%?loTJrKSrl?''

' -
fnTfoVe'sT H'rWlZ.ln\'' '''' n„e,to„oh-,
A to C - 6- Cap height. Square line across
at C.

0 to E - l>.

tSfer.,r,i"i "^'f
[ a^d°£.%s^fy5?"' '
F to 0 - * • I

II
H to I - 17 - Draw a straiglit line down between the side

in
to J - 17-3/4 - Extend line
1
3/4- above H.
K i.
Center between J and I.

IV
f N to 0 - Draw line through
L and E.
•\ P to 0 - Draw line through
M and G.

GUIDE LINES FOR SLEEVE CAP

" Center between 0 and 0.
S Center between 0 and R,
T Center between R and 0. i

V Center {etwee; U and H. Draw guide

a to E to V; then from T to lines from
G to l' from H.

. SLEEVE CAP (

Curve a line from G to R to E; then

(rom E to J to G.
VII

„. SHAPING THE
, SLEEVE
shape sleeve as follows:
N to W - 1/2'
I

L to W - Connect.

X.'^' "elow line N-P.

M* lo X '-lo/Zi'""""'"'
. vm I

FRONT OF SLEEVE
y Center between
R to Y - Connect,
Form front of sleeve as follows;
,

tf^ce from EtoJ ^-l- '

---to'K-''tE«; SSJ'"*E'lpsrand fold

.-- L?*
l-W. tJSL°?°"
Trace
' again on lino
from K to Y to W and open paperl
IX
BACK OF SLEEVE ,

''e?eat process of diagram

VIII "hSf s^^-^'f""'
Out begin tracing from 6 to J, etc. '

BACK DART

ie.sf''r!r?4J''Uirffian*-froS?%^g%^?'

"-iM-'SidS!"'
" ""^ 3' '<>"« a"-"

Mo seams are al lowed.

 .

DRAFT OP ONE-PIECE DRESS SLEEVE

(Special Measurement Method)

The illustrations above show how to take the

fo! losing arm measurements:
1. Underai"!!! lenflth
— ^

from armhole to wrist.

— —
2. Arm Circumterence -a little below armliole.
3. Elbow Circumterence with arm bent up.
4. Overarm Length from shoulder to wrist.
5. Wrist -Circumference - a loose measurement.

HOW TO DRAFT THE SLEEVE FOUNDATION, SIZES 12 TO 20

The sleeve draft provides for a 2", minimum ease allowance around the arm
at muscle. For example: If arm measurement is II' for size le.make, sleeve
'^vPattern 13" wide, or 6-1/2" from D to E.
-.,«hen drafting the sleeve, line A-B should be directly in center ot draft.

SIZE 12 14 16 18 20
A to B 17-1/4 17-1/2 17-3/4 18 IS-l/4 Equals Underarm Lenflth.
A to C 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 Mark point C, on line A-B.
D to E 6 6-1/4 6-1/2 6-3/4 7 Equals 1/2 of arm measure, plus
1
" ease..
A to F 8-5/a 8-3/4 8-7/8 9 9-1/8 Equals 1/2 of ine A-B. 1

G to H 6 5-1/4 5-1/2 5-3/4 6 Equals 1/2 ot Elbow Measure.

Square across at point B, in-
definite length, for wristl.lne
J K 22-1/4 22-S/8
to 23 23-3/8 23-3/4 Equals 0/erariji Length, through G and D
L to M 22-1/4 22-6/8 23 23-3/8 23-3/4 Equals O/erarm Length, through H and E
K to M Coinect for top of Sleeve cap line.

H. GUIDE LINES FOR SLEEVE CAP

K to N - Equals 1/2 of line K-M. D to R - Equals 1/2 of D-C.
K to 0 - Equals 1/4 of line K-M. m to S - Equals 1/2 of M-E, less 1/2'.
M to P - Equals 1/4 of line K-M. c to T - 1'.
K to 0 - equals 1/2 of K-0.
Draw the guide lines from 0 to 0 to R for iront of sleeve) for back of
sleeve, from P to S to T.
SLEEVE CAP
For top of cap, draw a curved line from S to N to 0; for bottom of cap,
from 0 to A to S as shown by dotted lines.
1 1 1. SHAPING THE SLEEVE
Shape the draft ol sleeve as follows;
J to U - 1/2'
U to G - Connect ... , . , ,

U to V - Equals 1/2 of wrist measure. Draw this line 3-1/2' long tor size
16, with l/B" grade for each size, bringing point V, about
3/4'
below ine J~L.
I

V to H - Connect.
V to W - Equals 1/2 of line U-V.
W to F - Connect.
IV
To complete the sleeve, fold drafting paper on line Q-G, and trace from
?to A to F; then open paper and fold again on line G-U, and trace from
to W to U.
V AND VI ,, .i.
^ Repeat process tor tracing back of sleeve as shown by dotted Ines; then I

'convert the extra length at elbow (about l-l/4')by making a V-shaped dart
\about 3" long for size 16 (with l/8\ grade for each size).
To complete sleeve pattern, allow seams.

ONE PIECE SHAPED SLEEVE WITH 3 ELBOW DARTS

The feature ot this sleeve is that it is slightly more
shaped than the sleeve with the single elbow dart.

For the 3 elbow darts, add I' to back edge of sleeve by

slashing along the elbow line, from back to front, and
spreading 1' at elbcw.

Plan the 3 darts by first drafting the center dart, 3/4" x

2-1/2'. Then draft the other 2 darts, one above, and the other
below the center dart, as shown by dotted lines.
S POUND ATIOM WITH BROADER SHOULDER
HO* TO ADJUST DRESS FOUNDATION FOR BROADER SHOULDER
AND
SlIGHTir DEEPER ARMOIE
I

i i*"'"'''"' 0'
form. The dotted line Indicates a
flljhtly broader shou der outline, th s be
feature In practically all tybss of Jarments. ng°
a style "
A garoient having the anihole extending beyond the normal
fS. shoulder,
the JD" 'houlder, reeulres padding. The broader
iiJ"!^"" the
greater the need, for the padding.

Hiftin fi-J!^ T?l'«fllZ ""Por ambole as ndlcated by

should be maintained as ahown In the diagram?

BACK
2fl! Si^i."^ .''^??''•^«"'' «n»tiole 1/4* deeper. Extend
front
t^i't^itlt buniffJir *"

II

lii^IfJr!)!'''!
*!tli broader shoulder cut .

'"?or%,j fngf^Jr';jr.s„^rh'i;,ni'?f,^s?rbfi.isr
??

1?!Si''gM.tSJ'?r5JJorf;r"b.i;?™" •"<'
^'"-fo"

f£''k™"l''"",''!''!..'"
f™"*. si'sli fro« center of shoulder
h fl"f*
center
oo'nf !"••"
front line as
<"> 'ro"' i"rt, forming "raigni
shown In diagram II.
straloht

IIJ
Illustration III shows sleeve made to conform
wltli the
broader shoulder and slightly deeper anahole.
\
^'.A^t' J'i' J'^S.^'^?'.!"""*'
pad to extend
e«
to allow shoulder \
>
l/2» or 3/4" beyond armhole.

?il°''?'/a."L.°i'"" ?' foundation adjusted for

a^ltjonal ease In sleeve
tat.llfJS"? f/jM'- for
'
iit

""^
-Ifi.%S'iio„fl?|.'!;? a'S ttfiUY.^

IV
Divide each side of sleeve cap Into 2 equal
parts, and
Indicate with cl r«les. ThI s wl I ( give the position
^^ease In sleeve cap between circle*. for

For materials such as velveteen or corduroy, use

the
foundation, because of the difficulty of
easing In. the extra allowance for fulness.

HOW TO MAKE A SHOULDER PAD FOR THE DRESS

I and II

\ Cut a diamond shaped piece 7"x 7" In silk or rayon; then

.A--Jnsert cotton battina and thin it out towards the cuini.
point.
V__Turn in edges and sllpstitch.

-_.Tack pad to shoulder and armhole seams..

fi™*"^2H?? r'""' position of pad starting 2- /

 n

DBESS SHOUIiDER PAD STYLES

ADJUSTING PATTERN
FOR SHOULDER PAD

M M
FInallv draft bottom of pad as follows: , .

TO DRAFT PAD FOR THE SET-IN-SLEEVE

,
for each
HO»f
J to K - T3/4" for size I6(«lth 1/8' orade
Make shoulder pad pattern In, 3 ««ct Ions. J to L - 3^3/k*. This equals half of J to K.
Pad should be about l-l/4'thlck at center outer en<t,wnen 1/8" grade for each 2slzes.
L to M - 6" for size 18, with
finished. ^ .

K to M - connect! then draw curved 1 1 nes as shown I

I and II diagram II.

Draft top section of pad as follO!»s; v size).
.i .
each
A to B - 8- tor size 16 (with 1/8' arade for 1/4*) to the
To coBipiete the pattern, allow seams (about notches and
A to C - 4'. This eauals half of A to 8. edges as indicated; then make corresponding
orade tor each 2
C to D - 4-3/4- f<Sr size 16, *lth 1/8'
mark sections I, 2 and 3.
sizes.
A to D - connect. . ,, - i»
B to B - connect: then draw curved lines as shown In
diagram II. HOW TO ADJUST PATTERN FOR SHOULDER PAD
Raise shoulder in front and back about I/4' >* outer
part, to nothing at center of shoulder. Make shoulder
Draft center section of pad as follovis: .
l/2> wider; make arnihole 1/4' deeper;
make underarm seam
f' to f : 6.|/4-for size I6(«ith 1/8' grade for each
size).
1/4" wider at top to nothing at bottom.
E to 6 - 3-1/8". This epuais half of £ to F. Adjust sleeve pattern as follows. 5«l«e.£fP 'Sj^J-Ki!!,'
then widen sleeve 1/2" at arm to nothing at bottom.
H to - f-IM-: This represents the thickest part of
I
Deepen cap at each side about 1/4 .

pad. Then draw curved lines as shovrn in diagram II.

VII

facing; then cut 4 more layers, each 1/2" ff?' j'?"'

HOW TO MAKE THE PAD illustrated. '

the shoulder edges. Arrange in position as

Sew section 3 to sections 1 and 2, taking up 1/4" seams. Slip cotton batting between edges of pad, and
shape, thin-
ning cotton to nothing at shoulder edges.
Cut crinoline Interfacing same as •ft'oiJ-ifL™'?'' "Jl
of sec-
VI
team allowance at outer edge.Baste to wrong sidev. Stitch pad about 1/2" In from raw edges, then
overcast.
tion 3. Turn right side out as shown In diagram VII
II! and IV , ,

inter-
.

Showing finished pad.

Cut a layer of cotton batting same., as crinoline

III and IV
FOR ROUNDED SHOULDER PAD layer of
Fold oval section through center, Inserting
cotton batting. Whip raw edges together.
This pad Is especially suitable for the dress with kimono
sleeve, raglan sleeve or dropped shoulder sleeiie design.
add an oval shaped piece to the lap oval section to dress pad about 3/4Vln_If02 «"*{;;
edge of pad at center, to nothing at each end. Whip
For the rounded pad, to
regular dress pad as follows: pad easing in fulness.
I and II VI

JSJ^cS? ?ria?S?fSf ISlirtiar"'"" " Showing finished pad.

DRESS S T rL E s

STYLE I - With Shoulder Dart

' foundation
ifiS'^™'!" to waist-
}er^|JouT^P;?S'J-(^??(Ms£
II
" -^'"^^ "^^t
tilirrshlifdUlirf."
III

STVLE 2 - With Vest

above waistlJne. *
Mark «*?tllSs°A LTb':

2- length pleat alonj the

II - No
waist ^rt linest
seams are al lowed.

STYLP(3)- With Double

Shoulder Tucks

'
?;:!~.''!;-«f?«'!f.'«s-!.;ss"j;

^' ""I- ll"'-

n Ufr? the tuck lines
- Mark as illustrated.

STYLE 4 - With Side Dart Fittino

~ f™" side
?'f/??°Sif'°" '°[ f"'^ ''"t seam

"
dI??^?f'"'''^?^'' close uo front
si?ii^h°t'2;:trr%?;„i

aWrol-I^Jalt'^ii'^t.'™"

STYLE 5 - With Pleated Side Section

" '"""'iation, mark

tfoI!°fB°th'''f
tion "'"'l
for the two
posi-
pleats; then mark sections

" *i>ist darts to

Jlil fH^t^H ^f^" separate
thp pleat
nTS.'.T''^'*."'^*-'""'^'' slash along-
the lines and spread for the side
pi eats.
Indicate the pleats with notches.
No seams are al lowed.
 e

17
DRESS PBOHT - 6 STYLES
STYLE - Dartless Front
I

Illustration sho»s front without darts.

eliminated.
Pattern is so cut, tliat the darts are
used for
The dartless front foun~dation may. be and to
styles made in soft and thin inaterials,
fit the less mature figure only.
I
- Using the dress front foundation to »aist--
to
line only, draw lines from breast pornt lines
nick and armhole as shown by dotted
Mark sections A, B and C.
II - Slash on dotted lines and close M'
up front dart
leaving the
making the spread at neck I

remainder of the spread at armhole.

at neck, and arBhole Jith
HI - Indicate the spacesdotted
notches, and with (n«s ffom arahol
I

to breast pointt

Shoulder
STYLE 2 - Kith Pin Tucks at
such
Pin tucks are used mainly in shceroaterials,
as georgette, chiffon, sheer crepes, etc., and
wrong side of
the tucks can be made on right or
material .
.

I - Usino the dartless front foundation, draw

first tuck line 1-1/4- in from neck,
the
breast point,
along shoulder line, down to
Draw remaining tuck lines 3/4" apart.
then slash on tuck
II - Cut out armhole dart; 'or I'B
lines and spread |74" at shoulder of the
pin tucks. This will reduce part
fulness at armhole.
shown W,j3tted jn«,
Ill . Make lenothof tucks as
I

less
making the first tuck 4" long, and 1/4
for each succeeding tuck.

Above the
STYLE 3 - High Cowl Neck, I"
Regular Neckline
then raise
1 . Trace dartless front foundation;
neck! r at center front, and lower neck
I " at shoulder.
ne from center front
II - Draw a curved si ash. 1 1

at higher neck, to shoulder r

below neck-
line. Mark sections, A and B.
ne between A and B 'rom
III - Slash along dotted 1 1

?enter front to shou Ider; then rai so r-ection

right
A, so that the upper
line will bo at
angle to the center front line.

This will provide the allowance for the

drape.
shown by the
Add I' hem across the top as
dotted lines.

STYLE 4 - Neck Darts

then
.
Trace the dartless front foundation;
draw lines for the iterts as shown by dotted
lines, i-'ark sections A to 0.
along
.
Cut out the armhole dart; then slash
the 3 dart lines, and spread sections B,
I,

and 0, 1/2" at neck, ,for 1/4" darts.

For center front dart, draw line 1/4' in
point
from center front at neck, down to a
6* below neckline.
Lower the neckline I" evenly all around.
- Draw V-Shaped lines for the neck darts In-
dicating top of darts with notches.

STYLE 5 - Neck Bathers

space
Illustration shows gathers at neck (the
being about 2" each side of center front).
- Using the dartless front foundat'iM, draw 2
I
slash lines as shown by dotted lines; then
mark sections A to D.
waist darts;
II - First cut out the armhole and
then slash alongdotted lines from neck
down,
and spread for neck gathers, closing up the
darts at armhole and waist.
front pattern.
Ill - Diagram shows completed
The 2 gathering lines near neck edge, are
about 1/4" apart.
COWL NECK FRONT _ 3 STYLES
show how to allow
f5fnesI'?n"??„S?'?*
lu ness rn front for sing e, double or

°' foundation
Is 2 sufde.*^

COWl NECK WITH SINGLE DRAPE

Illustration shows blouse

« oh neck
drape in front. Neckline is •
111 1ne 1

I ir at sbouJder.

III

COWL NECK WITH DOUBLE DRAPE

founiatlon as
a^guidl. 'fi'; s{f;l;i;?*^^:»f^
-^s?!;?'affs:£EH5gi:^^^^^

swtlonni'ald"?'',!;!!'" ='5=5
•'t f ^9" ^' 3na spread for draoe altnw-
' the squa?ed"li„e^°^;
-illu4t?ited
Illustrated. T?,°;' front to
Trace waisti Ine only,

Ucul'li ""^
if°E.Ji.''

COWL NECK WITH TRIPLE DRAPE

Use tlje regular hip length foundation as a

guide,
draw afllSUS^r. positions for
t^Ve f2r'?jf 'Se^nirssibif dr^^ir
JI
Draw squared I Ines; then slash front, and soread

and C touch the squared line

as IllSltratldV'
in
Diagram ahovs front completed.

f?SSt.'"'*
*" »" "a" canter
 STYLES OP DRESS NECKLINES 19

HIGHER NECKLINE DESIGN

..Mark position for the second pleat about 2' from first pleat,
illustration shows front and highar necitilne In one, with square
For higher necitilne draw line from * to 8, then
pleats at waistline.
a ine up ' to C
.
1
i

I III
Using the dress front foundation to waistline only, as a C to 0 - 1/4'; then connect D to B.
guide, mark position for the first pleat from front dart
A to E - S'; tlien dra» curved line from D to C to E.
to ffaistl ine.
IV
Slash and close up front dart to spread for the first,,
pleat as siiown in diagram II. Allow seams, and make notches at pleats.

V VI & vin

/li
\ I

I
1 S

Illustration shows back view of higher

i:

neckline wlth\
fj VII

neck darts, \ For hiolier neckline, draft pattern as follows:

\ F to 6 - I". Continue center back line up.
H to I
- I*. Be sure that ttie distance frotn 1 to G is
y and VI j 1/2' less than the distance from H to F, minus
Use dress back foundation as a guide. |
the dart.
For neck dart^first draw new center back line by adding / Continue the dart above the neckline to a point.
1/4* at neck and reducing 1/2' at waistline, 'as showi^/
by dotted line. HII
Make neck dart 1/4' wide and 3* long, l-l /2* from center back..^' Add seams on al |
edges but center back

PLtATED COWL NECK DESIGN

/ Mark positions for the drapes, , shown by the dotted
Illustration shows cow) nedt about 5* de^ at center front. lines. Make pleat lines about 3* long.
The stitched pleats at shoufder hold the drapes in position. in
I Slash along drape lines from center front to shoulder and
Using the dress front foundation as a guide, nark posi- spread so that the lower points of sections A, B and C
tion for the pleats and V-neck as shown by dotted lines. ^touch the squared outline.
Mark sections A, B and C. IV
Slash along pleat lines: then close up front dart andy' For best results, front with cowl neck should be cut
spread between A, B and C as shown in diagram II. on the bias of goods.
20 DRESS FRONT WITH YOKE 3 STYLES

Draw a slraisht line for yoke seen line, from armhole

STYLE ^to center front, 2-1/2" above wai sti ne:i tlien shift
I armriole dart toward the yoke seam tine.
Using the dress front foundation to waistline onl
draw line from armhole to front dart, as shown Draw neckline paral lei to yoke seam line, makino yoke 5"
dotted line. Mark sections A and B. wide. Reduce 1/2" at waistline between C-B and brino
tooether, as shown In diagram III.

Slash along line from arinhole to front dart;then close Complete yoke section as Illustrated; then trace
up front dart, spreading A and B, as Illustrated. — /'
add seams.

lin

II
STYLE 2
'.Complete the yoke section, making the diagonal part of
I
\the yoke 2" wide and 1-1/2" past center front. Reduce
Draw the yoke and tuck lines. as shown by dotted lines; another 1/2" at waistline between B and E and bring to-
Mark sections A, 8, C ana D. gether, as shown in diagram HI,
III
Slash along dotted lines of yoke and tucks; then close
Trace yoke and front sections; then mark the tucks about
up front dart to spread for the tucks, as shown in 2" long.
.
Add seams on all edges but center front of
diagram II,
section 8.

, STYLE 3
(Surplice Front) !

Draw curved yoke line 'about 6-1/2' long, as shown by Draw diagonal lines of section A to waistline, as shown''
dotted line, Changs the front dart to point toward the J '.,bydotted lines, making it 4" wide.
yoke seaia line, as Illustrated. Mark sections A and B. Reduce another 1/2" at waistline between B and C and/
bring together, as shown in diagram HI.
Slash along dotted line of yoke; then close up dart to /'

spread between A and B, as shown In diagram II. Ill

Allow seams on all edges and make corresponding notches.
 ; ,

FROHT 21
SLASH GATHERS IH - 3 S T T Ii E S {

i /and waisti ine, spreading between A-B and C for fulness,

ARMHOLE SLASH GATHERS \\ as shown in diagram II.
I ' "
ne only , '
,'

Using the dress front foundation to wai St I i i

Lower the neckline I at shoulder and l> at center
draw'slash line fror« armhole (slightly slanting); then,' ,'

front.
divide It Into 3 parts and draw 2 lines down to. bust- I
Ill
line, as Illustrated. Reduce 1/2' at the waistline, as ;

shown by dotted lines. Mark sections A, B and C. / Allow seaihs on all edges but center frontj and
Slash alono dotted lines; then close up darts at front/ edge of armhole slash which is to be bound.

SLASH GATHERS NEAR WAISTLINE II

I ~\ i

dart to spread for fulness; then bring

'•Close up front
Draw slash line from side seam, as Illustrated; then/ .^sections B and C together.
reduce at waistline, as- shown by dotted lines. Mark
sections A, B and C. Draw neckline as shown by dotted lines.
Ill
Slash along dotted line from the side; then slash along leaving on
dotted lines from waistline up. Allow seams on all edges but center front,
edges.
Cut away reduction at side of section C. * as much seam as possible at the slashed

as shown by dotted line. .

SLASH GATHERS AT ARMHOLE AND LOWER SIDE

Ill
I
Spread section 0, about I", for necessary additional,'
Draw the 2 slash lines; as described for the 2 upper ] fulness.
problems; then draw vertical slash lines and reduce at..'
waist, as Illustrated. Mark sections A, B, C and D. i NOTE: measure about 1-1/2
The edge to be gathered, should
times the length of the plain edge. For Example; It
n the edge to be gathered
dart andy' the plain edge is 8" long,
Slash on dotted lines; then close up front should be at least 7-1/2' long.
bring sections 8 and C together.
22 GATHERS IN DRESS FRONT - 8 S T T I, E S

Reduce 1/2' at waistline, as shonn by dotted lines,,-''

VuSLT/J',''L''^':\ °l I'S"! '.m^ equal parts and dPaw

2 lines down as illustrated.
Ill
Mark sections A,B,C and 0. Allow seams. Make corresponding notcties.

STYLE 2 II
Cut out front and separate yoke; then slash and close
up the darts in front section to spread for fulness
between B, C, D, E and F.
draw yoke 1 ine, 2" below
,For overlap in yoke, extend 1' at center front and
make rounded outlj^ne.
floduce 1/2"
at waistline, as illustrated. Divide
yoke !J^T^,iT''« ^'^9' to •>* oathered should measure at least
?'° 5 eoual parts, and armhole into 3 parts; then 1-1/2 times tns length of the plain edge.
aI"^
draw lines from yoke to darts and
armhole, as shiwn by Ill
dotted lines. Mark sections A to F.
All.ow for seams and make cbcresoonding notches*

STYLE 3
I
\ Cut out front; then slash along dotted lines and close.
continue down v,up front and waist darts, bringino sections A, B and C
center front and across
i-ine 1- from tooether. Spread between D, E, F and G for necessary
to side, as shown by dotted
at the waistline, 9s fulness allowance.
n
Divide ^"i?^ I
istrated.
i 1 1

section A in 4 parts and armhole in 3

then draw 3 lines from section A, as shown by parts;
Ill
lines.
dotted Separate the front sections; then allow seams and make
Mark sections A to G.
corresponding notches.
 GATHERS IH DRESS FRONT - 3 STYLES 23

H
STYLE I
Slash along dotted lines; then close up front dart and
brino sections B and C together. Spread between A-u
I 'and E for necessary additional fulness.
Draw line from center front, 4* atwve waistline, to Cut away reduction at side of section C.
side, 2' above waistline.
Ill
Reduce ! at the waistline, as sl\own by dotted lines;,/
Separate the 2 sections; then add seams and make cor-
tlien draw 2 lines down from arnhole, as Illustrated.
Mark sections A to E. responding notches.

11

'\ up front dart, spreading between 8 and C for part of

,
STYLE 2 "the fulness at top.
I Spread between sections C and D about 1* for additional
fulness at top and bottom. Draw V-neck line, as shown
Draw yoke lines, as illustrated; then draw 2 lines down by dotted lines.
from yoke, as shown by dotted lines. Mark sections A,
B, C and D. Ill
II Allow seams and make corresponding notches, Add seam
'Cut out front and slash along dotted lines; then close 'also to center front of yoke.

STYLE 3 V Divide arnhole in 3 parts, and side seam in 3 parts;

I ^\ i then draw slash lines into shoulder, armhole, and side
Draw V-neckline; then continue line from V-neck to*; !
seam, as illustrated.
waistline for front section, as shown by dotted lines./ j
Ill

Reduce |/2' at the waistline, as illustrated.,,--'' / Stash along dotted lines and spread necessary amount
Slash front section along dotted lines; then close upy for gathers.
front dart. Allow seams and make corresponding notches.
 24 DRESS BACK DESIGN - 3 S T y I, E S

STYLE I

I
,' Use dress lack foundation to waistline only as VBrino sectionsB and C together to reduce at waisti ine.
a Quiae.
Draw yoke and pleat lines, as shown by Ill
dotted lines-
"i tS e'
"
at the waistline,
I a/id mark section^ l?S!r"!„rt°
lines, ^"i^'i"
and spread
slash along pleat
about 1-1/2' for each pleat.
seams and make corresponding notches. Allow

SrY,LE 2 i them A to E. Slash along yoke line and down to dart

I \.between C and D; then close up dart, spread at top
'Trace back foundation and draw for part of fulness.
yoke and bust lines,
shown by dotted lines. I

•Reduce at the I
waistline then continue slash./ then slash along dotted lines from top
ne to yoke, f^^h^fi' '°'*S=
1 1
necessary additional fulness,,
as Mi,„Ti!!5..^'"'f25
Illustrated. Add seams. -*
II
Divide back section below yoke into 4 parts and mark' '"J? '? gathered should measure at least
1-1/2 times the length of the plain edge.

STYLE 3
• Slash along lower seam line and bring sections A
and B
^...together for the fitted lower back. Cut away
reduction
at side of section A. '

bustline, and the III

lower seam line, as illustrated.
Slash from lower edge to armhole between C and D;
*^'?tli"e in 2 places, as shown by dotted then'
if^^^" fulness, as described for the
""^ <,*I?I '"ilti""?!
Alio* for seams and make corresponding
liSJlMs^ArBf' clnd'o?" ''™''°"
notches
 3 METHODS OF DRAFTING A DRESS FRONT

The above diaorams show 4 types of foundations

fhe'"dlagra»s°beloi show ho* the. same style (as illustrated
on
L-S.-.. dart
the figure) can be dratted by using the side dart, shoulder
result.
or dartless fr«it foundation ts a guide, and attain the same

These tour steps show how to draft pattern, using the side
dart foundation as a guide.
For measurements and other details for drafting, see
page 22,
Style 2.

be used, these four diagrams

If shoulder dart foundation is to
show how to draft the pattern for the sa»e 'tylj! ,j™tf„ !?!
closingupthe
part of the fulness for gathers Is allowed, by
shoulder dart).

than the
DARTLESS FRONT A dartless front foundation has a larger armhole
FOUNDATION other foundations, as indicated by the notches.
Diaorams II and nishow how to reduce the fulnesi «* arjlfole.
by bringing the notches together, thus
creating part of the
fulness for gathers at the yolie seam line^
DBA F TOP PULL LENGTH DRESS FOUNDATION

Illustration shows shoulder dart in

front,
waist darts In front and back
skirt"
^"^^ '""^^ °'

Dress has about 5" ease around bust

and 2" ease around hip (7" belo*
»alst). Waistline is close fitting?

Use the hip length dress foundation

;? •Jlstline only about 8" apart);

then trace hip sections
about 2" be-
low waistline. Mark
seetlonsVto of

Raise hip and walstflne 3/4"

at side
~--L'??i^"' Ct^'^S «t center of hfp
sections as shown by dotted
lines.

2^^^h^''?!l''**^'""'
of shoulder to breast
'rod. center
point:
slash and o ose up center'^frbnt then
d"t

For skirt, contfjue straigtit lines

3k M mJfJJ*fi; lower edge of.-

fi'thV^Siv^'SfpfynT" ""•""•"el

"art in front from

?f?«fioinr" " ' 2'"°"

It' .fiS" "ttino waistline, reduce

Sottei' fn.ys- at s.de as shown b?

dotted lines." EUmlnJie the dart in
front of skirt.

j& a?'^?|{h;2,^1Jr45«t ,/|;

d1??e3'ir?L^?"" ""^" ^ho*"

full length
I°„S!L'^ ttif dress
"'"s on all sewino
;L and maite corresponding
edges
notches
 .

PRINCE SS DRESS OR HOUSE COAT 27

Illustration shows garment with

square neckl ine and slide fast-
ener closing in front. For house-
coat make pattern ankle length.

Using the dress (hip length),

foundation as a guide, draft
pattern as follows:
Divide front into two parts.
A to 8 - Equals front shoulder.
A to C - Equals 1/2 of shoulder.
C to D - Draw ine from C to D,
I

at top of dart.

II
Divide back into two parts.
E to F - Equals A to C on front
shou der
1

f to 6 - Draw line from F to G.

at top of dart*
H Center between F-G.
I to J - Equals B to C on front
shoulder,
J to H - Connect.
Slash front from shoulder, to
point 0 and close up front dart''
as i lustrated.
I

Mark grain line arrows parallel

to center front and back.

in
Cut out front sections and trace
about 8" apart.
Continue straight lines down to
required length; then shape bot-
tom as shown by dotted lines.

For additional flare at bottom,

add 2* to each seam edge at
bottom, to nothing at waistline.
Draw 3l Ightly
, „ Ine In
curved . I

front at point D.
side section of fi
Draw square neckline, as shown
by dotted lines.

IV
Trace back sections and con-
tinue straight lines down; then
draw bottom line as described
for the front section.
Draw slightly curved tine at^
point G.
Allow seams to complete the
pattern.
88 DRAFT OF EVEHING GOWN

SHOULDER STRAP \

Evening go*(\ features "off the shoulder* neckline.

Neckedge Is trlnined »lth a gathered ruffle. '
If?ff the foundation to waletltne only; then for close
The fitting over the bust In front Is aided hy two darts ' fitting waist ne, make waist dart In front 1/2* wider,
I

and reduce waistline In back 1/2', as shown by dotted

bist ' J"" «'«>»« the
]
lines.
Shirt !s circular, with the fulness distributed evenly I
Draw side dart lines as indicated, and mark sections A to E.
°"* fo™» » ""p"te i Slash along the 3 dart lines and spread by closing up
l\rcU° I
the center front and waist darts, as shown in diagram IV.
,
The 3 darts should be spaced evenly ihen spread apart.
Using the hip length dress foundation, draft the lower I Make each dart 2" shorter as indicated,
neckline as indicated. Trace the hip sections of the foundations, and divide
i

Ora« shoulder strap iines In front and back, making \ each section into 3 equal spaces. Mark sections f to K.
strap 3/4' wide.
For close fitting waisti ine draw V-shaped Ilnes,frat waist
Make strap la one piece as shown in diagram IV. to hipllne, taking out specified amount.
Bring together F to G.and G to H as shown In diagrkm IV.
Draft length of neck bindin"to e«uai the distance from Repeat for sections l-J-K.
center front to center back as Indicated. This oives^
the binding sufficient V
length to fit around the Suter For drafting the skirt front, make slashes In hip sec-
part of the arm. tion from flip to waistline and spread, placing the hip
Sfif
"OtcliMat neckedge and binding which section against the square as indicated.
will Sfl^'fSS?"'!'
also indicate the sewing positions for the shoul-
der strap.
'^ns't skirt, continue straight lines down be-
^ *'""' H
=''2*" dotted lines; then draw circular
binding"'"* line 11^^ ?f
at bottom. Repeat process for back of skirt.
BLOUSE WITH YOKE
back -
This blouse features an inverted pleat in
-
Slightly broader shoulders
Striped material with yokes, pocket and sleeve
cross*! se .
s J .

and is
Blouse is hip-ienoth (6' below waistline),
worn tucked into the skirt.
below waist-
The darts in front and back are joined
line only.
sleeve of
To draft blouse, use front back, and
dress foundation as a guide.

shouloers 1/4' broader, as shown by dotted

Make
I ines.
Draw yoke lines in front and back t«( squaring across
chest line in front, 2' below neck, and SQuaring
across from center back, 4' below neck

Draw slash line for gathers

In front, from cantor of
yoke to breast point; then
nark sections A to F.
Draw lower blouse line, S'
below walsti ine.

.Sleeve is 3" long at under-

"arm seam and I" narrower at
bottom. Draw strai gill line,
acrx>ss.

II
Separate yoke from front and
back; then close 1/4" dart
,jn back yoke between D and t.
Slash front on line between
. B and C from yoke to breast
point, and spread for gathers
by closing up front dart.

For front closing overlap,

add 3/4" to center front;
then marl^ position for but-
tons and buttonholes, 3
apart, beginni ng the first at
center of yoke.

Mark position for corres-

ponding notcttes at yoke seams,
sleeve and amhole*

For shoulder pads - Place

'yoke sections, shoulder to
shoulder; then draft shoul-
der pad as snown by dotted
I Ines.

Ill
Mark position for a 4' x 4"
pocket, 2" from center front
and 2* below yoke;then trace.

Allow seams on all sections;

then add hens and a pleat as
1 lustrated.
1

Cutting layout to the left

shows pattern pieces laid on
one way striped material, 36*
wl de.

SELVEDGE
 30 BLOUSE WITH PEPLUM

of blouse, with front and Cut

ioluJ''lJ'Sl!/''»J5
collar '^"J at higher
in one, and pleats
naistline. then
.....M«t™Sl r.Si''S\fi;rS-.''.'?!!r.™'«tH!!?:
brim
front dart and trace.
.Make front I" wider for overlao at
I center front and
Use dress front foundation (hip
Reduce at the waistl Ine,
lennth) as a miirf. M'SStUd^ifSesf^'" ^ cetW/Zk 'li
•
I
as shown^y io??ed f lies.'
Orawluaher waistline at center front III
to nothino at
for thTi pT^Ts'lt'SifSff?;!'""" '"^It'oO.
Mark sections Make a facino for front and collar as shown by dotted
I ines

nUjra^?i'??eftnt'!!a1s?l?:.?' ""^ ""^'^

'mLS"f S^SVf'
tions F and ^l?^*' ?'°"» MistlineUhen bring sec-
IV G together for a fitted peplum.
foundation
"lack (hip length), as a guide.
BSS„^f'"!P waistline in
niJJ !*. Z places as shiwn by dotted
lines, extending the center back line 1/4' at
neck. I «
Dram V-shaped dart at neck, as illustrated. allowing for seams on all edges
Mark sections E, F and G, t' I,'!?°5J5?,H''
but center back. Make corresponding
notches and mark
.^position for the 2 pleats to replace the dart.
 ,

31
SLEEVE DRAFTING - 3 STYLES

II and III
.trace
Illustration shows sleeve gathered into a wristband, First trace front part of sleeve and open; then
1
' wide. back of sleeve.
IV
I
ength (about
Make wristband I- wide and the requi rededges of sleeve
I

Trace sleeve draft according to the outline of the draft 7-1/2" for size 16). Allow seams on all
on paje 12, diagramvi; then draft sleeve for thisstyle
and band, "and is usually made double.
as shown by dotted lines.

r <

y
« 0 I

(the enti re cuff is about 12' long for size 18).

bottom lustrated
Illustration shows sleeve oathered at top and
in and IV
wi tha cuff 3' wide.
dotted lines,
I Divide top of cap into 4 parts and draw
as illustrated. Mark sections A to
F.
Fi rst trace sleeve draft as described for
Style I: then
at top of
draft sleeve for this style as shown by dotted lines. Slash from top to bottom and spread about I'
II
each slash.
draft 1/2 of cuff as il Allow seams on all edges of sleeve and cuff.
Trace and. open sleeve; then

Illustration shows bell sleeve about 3/4 length.

I Trace and open back of sleeve;then draft shaped
tnm-
mlng band as illustrated.
Trace the outline of the sleeve draft i'>5<'.f°'; ^
-
Style 1: then draft the bell sleeve as shown by dotted jY
1 1 nes. Trace band; then allow seams on all edges. Mark grain
n line arrow.
Trace ^ind open front part of sleeve.
 32 SLEEVE DRAFTING - 3 STYLES

Illustration shows 2-piece shaped sleeve.

J-oe Sleeve draft accordijj to the

outline of the .raft I
SrHS'lJj.„"?/Sg?{er??i;k*^'«

^"^'^ ^'^'^'i"": then add sea«

„ ; and make notches.
^'""^ ='«ve as /'
Cut out sleeve in „,teria'l
f'Tusl^rlur^' and first Join bac.
easina rn between notches at elbo». "
sea« "

Sketch shows the S-pi'ece sleeve with 3 darts at top

I

Dr. Slash Mnes as shown ^ dotted n„.,.,d ,ar. sej ^r!sHE^:

'
'

'
'^-^''^1^%^^^^

'""'^
^lll'VAlTt^lTo l;fir:' '"~~V

dfviJS'liwfr'lioelitoVS^Sal ?ins! " i

-'"t^X """-e as shown by dotted lines.

""'"^ "<'««.-• tfSpfSJe Thl^r^^r"""'"" ""''"o^ dart

a;2"»l^i;\:^??oniraJf'B.*° '""^
 SLEEVE DRAFTING - 3 STYLES 33

Sleeve with 3 darts at shoulder. \ \

,'

^.^^ spread sections as il-

I
. , i'l Mustrated, raising the sections I-1/2' at center, and
dots at top ot cap.y jpreadins evenly at top for the 3 darts.
Tric« sleeve foundation; then mark 3
,

2-1/2' apart. ; iv

Mrk Draw V-shaped darts ah<.. I- ion, to comp lete thesieeva.

Bra. slash lines as sho," b,
tions A to E.
dotted I ines.and sec,,/'
.
— —

Si oeve with 5darts at shoulder.

down and j.,w== i". the
J^oss to
This style has slightly more fulness at top than the 3-,, ; Slash
v. .'Slash cap from top oown, ai.u '
yr:
j;;;;' rais
even y at top for the 6
ons eveni
sections 0 darts, rai s
rf«rt
dart si.eve.
sleeve
Sleeve. ,
t
;i
,,
spread the secti
vscread
.si.
i
gj<.tio„s a to H 2- at center.
Trace sleeve foundation and mark 5 dots at top of caPi- i

1-1/2' apart. '

|
I»

, 1 1
'
Tn complete
To
1 sleeve
cnmolete sleeve, draw 6 V-shaped darts about 1" long.
Draw slash lines as 1 lustrated and mark section A to J./
1

illustrat-
,''
half, and draw^dotted lines slightly curved as
Sieeve with slash gathers »t shoulder. '\ / ed. Mark sections A to^F^.

dotted i„es^|l spread the^seotions^as illus-

Tr„e.s,eeve foundation; thenJt^Jhe.shoulder sectlon)Vjiash_^on J
-1/2" wide and 2" deep at center of cap.
1-1/2° between each of the other sections.
II
IV
Divide cap half on either side of shoulder section
in .. , .

iidn^kdots-thin divide length of shoulder .se ction in. Allow seams and make corresponding notches.
 34 SIiEEVE DRAFTING - 3 STYLES

?l«»»,j;ith oreat amount of fulness lines and mark sections A to

it't»i'"^h,',?"fff?!3
at top, but fitted from elbow to wrist. E.

&
Ill

I l-.'.'A^MVhz fHi'sTufSe? ?'le''ip?eai°Jt'{Sra|? Iff"" " '

'°
^?1.rilUg2;^?feg^g;!!w'lg°^,::s-S§1,^;/'£;-„fjgg s5?f?-„eHftS'i?{2?r?„,i|:^'"

Trace short sleeve and draw line ^^i"!!!

.throuoti, center from top to bottom; then across
tlirouati center
"!-trated, making
II thripSeidlt tiribSu"? I?"*"
Divide sleeve cap into 6 equal parts; then
draw 2 <ines
straijht across as shown by dotted lines.)
Mark sections Make siseve stiffening i,ir top of sleeve 4' deep.

Sleeve has 6 pleats at top, all pressed toward

the
"f'" ^'•<»<*-ll curved lines as
•shown by dotted lines, Mark
I sections E to K.
Trace the l-piece shaped sleeve and mark
the posit ons III
at bottom. apart Slash aiono dotted ines and spread as
Mark sections A to D. I
lustratcd i
makino the spread for each pleat i-i/s- I

wide.
Mark positions for the slash lines, g-
apart on either Trace sleeve and mark the pleat lines
as i Must
 STYLES 85
SLEEVE DRAFTING _ 3

part and. spread,

from C to B to D. Malie slashes in upper
diagram II.
forming slightly curved line at top, as shown in
.II
Illustration shows sleeve with crescent shaped section (this is to build up
at top of cap. This section is padded with
interlinino B to E equals B to A plus 1/2'
to help the sleeve extend as illustrated. the sleeve a little above the shoulder).
Ill
I
up sleeve,
points A-B;C Slash through center from top to bottom. Bui let
Trace sleeve foundation 6" lono;theii nark from C to E to D and spread,
about 4 hi drawing a curved line
and 0. Malie * to B 1-1/2": * to C and A to 0
.
of the crescent
Connect C to D through B; then divide into 6 parts
as so that the curved line equals lower edge
shown by dotted lines. Cut out sieeve;then cut
through shaped piece. Al low seams.

II,
from
This sleeve has S darts and has the same fitting effect Slash crescent shaped piece along dotted lines
cap of
as the above style. The top of sleeve is also padded, top to bottom and spread; then arrange over
using the crescent shaped piece as a guide. sleeve between C and D, and trace.
Ill
I
To complete the
Use the completed sleeve sections of the above style
as a guide. Divide the crescent shaped piece into 6
The V-shaped lines form the darts.
sleeve pattern, allow, seams on aj I edjes.
idoes- —
Use trie
an in-
parts, mailing the 4 center spaces 1-1/2' wide at top, orescent'siiaped' piece' in its original outline for
and I-3/4' at bottom. terlintng pattern, to pad top of sleeve.

II

—
Trace sleeve foundation 6' long; then mark points A-B ,.'
A to G equals E to A (diagram I).
the sleeve for square shoulder
This is to build up
effect.
and C, makingV M A to and A to C ubout4';
^.^ B ...... about 4 Draw a short
..1..^ ..n in, about I' below the
parallel to and cap
circuiai line
I ;

\ III
of sleeve, and mark points 0-E and F; then divide into Bui Id up sleeve
4 parts as shown by dotted lines. Slash from A to E.and '--Slash through center from top to bottom.
remainder of slashes by drawing a curved line from 0 to
G to F «k
ng D to
from E to F,and £ to 0; then make with D to H, and F to G with F to Allow
alon^ dotted lines to top of cap and spread as shown G correspond i
.

seams on al edges.
I
in diagram ii.
 SLEEVE DBAPTING - 3 STYLES

Sleeve with band at top of cap,

Slash canter" of sleeve from top
and across down between R r
to the sides: then slS»h iJfJ .1.?
curved lines of sections A' to
S
''

lidfat'tor
wiae at top, I'l/jS^'iS"'
1-1/2 wide at bottom,
^«t'0"S A to D 2>) spread as shown In diaoram III.Srand ' tS th^ toe'
and about !• lonj. I

Build up sleeve cap as^shown by dotted

lines.
s^^ioSs Pto'S:"' illustrated and mark/' IV
Allow seams to complete the sleeve.

Sleeve with band and 3 pleats at top

of cap dotted lines as illustrated, and mark sections
A to E,
in
0^?de,'^^?'t?^c%.'""' D as a
spread, raising sections 8
Divide cap Into 4 equal llTc i- "Jinv^ spreadrng evenly at top for the
parts and mark dots. pleats. '

first draw center- line down g-

long; then drawremalning
cZTAl Z s'le^'l.''''""-"'^ --S to

Sleeve with slash gathers at

top.

JfKMiSr!o'?i;S''ifi?s!«"'"»"'' <^^'^""' f<.^6and:then ^"and lines from top do«n, and to the
'Viiti-
II ustrated, raising sections J,
|1 ini "i-""?? 2"
shiwn'S? Sfti"e§ H^s'?" * ^-
nvx^^if^z L:-b? »n^i^sir^^ IV
Allow seams and make corresponding notches.
 . ,

STYLES 37
PUSH-UP SLEEVE DRAFTS 2

STYLE I (Lantern Design uaWp «;lashes in upper sleeve from lower --o-
the space
The lower sleeve is so cut that the arm open- gp and spreld is if lystrated,makinQ and
ing Is on the straight grain, thus keeping between A and B enual the space between I

the opening from stretching. J, etc.

V
Trace the sleeve foun()atlon;then draft sleeve Allow seams and make corresponding notches;
6" long at underarm seam. then cut out sleeve in fabric.
longer than opening, and
Divide sleeve in 2 parts, maldno upper sleeve Cut a facing, "
I

1" long at underarm seam. 2-1/2- wide; then sew to lower s eeve, r ght
Illustrated,
Draft lower sieeve 1/2" narrower each side
of sides together,, tapering seam, as
turn
the underarm seam at lower edge. Slash through center for opening; then
facing to Inside as shown In diagram VI.
Divide upper sleeve '?nto 8 equally spaced
parts, and mark sections A to H: then divide Sew lower sleeve to upper sleeve. Pfe«^«j;
lower sleeve Into 8 parts as shown by
dotted open; then join underarm seam of sleeve and
Iines. Mark sections to P.
I
facing (opening out the facing).
Turn facing to inside again, and sllpstitch
upper
Separate lower si eeve'sectlon from the inner edge to position.
section; then make slashes from top to lower VII
and spread as Illustrated, leaving seam sew a loop and
edge, for closer fit around arm,
allowance space at sleeve opening between/ button at lower underarm seam.
sections and P.
I

lOWER „
SLEEVE"
. ,
V
STYLE 2 IV
Separate lower sleeve from the upper
This sleeve is about 3/4 length and may section; then make slashes from top to ,

be worn pushed up toward the elbow. bottom and spread as indicated; leaving
The method of making' pattern for lower seam allowance space at sleeve opening/
si eeve is simi lar to styleI
between sections G and L.(The space be-
tween sections I and is automatic).
,)

Take out el Bow dart in sleeve foundation

by making a tuck In back of sleeve to Make slashes In upper sleeve from lower
nothing in front as illustrated. Trace. edge to the top and spread as Illus-
trated, making the space between A and
B equal the space of the lower sleeve
Draft sleeve a-l/2' shorter;then divide between G and H, etc.
sleeve In 2 sections, making lower
sleeve 4' long. Broaden sleeve slightly V
below elbow as shown by dotted lines. Allow seams and make corresponding
Ill notches. Make a facing, longer than
I
,

Divide upper sleeve into, 6 equally sleeve opening and 2-1/2' wide.
spaced parts, and mark sections A to r; To make sleeve In fabric, use
directions
then divide lower sleeve as illustrated, given above for style I.
and mark sections 6 to L.
 PUSH-UP SLEEVE DRAFT 2 STYLES

STYLE 3
Sketch shoxs 3/4 length
sleeve with
cuff pushed up to»ar3 the
elbo*.
Oathers to Make slashes from bottom to
mLTft''?^ff"°*^"" 'he cap
sleeve and spread as indicated; of
dftfon ?h"
dition, f"""*! has arm. In ad-
the sleeve then
an extra al- gr^* of.sleeye MshSSS
/"' inverted p eat
ItlTJ^ n ' "lakino sleeve atout
r tn^^'"'/'!'"
C,and i'fi*?^'' sections B and
about l/2»lon()er between sec-
Lions r and G.

ft'!?" ^-'/S' shorter; the« Jii°Sut*frfab"riir"

make cuff 4' deep as Indicated.
Slash from cuff to elhow dart: V and VI
close up dart as shown In then
dIaoVam 11.,. Make the inverted pleat before
gathering lo*er edge; then join to
Straiohten the back seam line upper edge of cuff'
shown by dotted lines;thOT as
swSfatl Join underarm sea» of sleeve and
dilgrariiS? '
"
tSm of°25f f.''"
III
Oividesleeve Into a eoual I, spaced Showing sleeve, r'fght side out.

ALLOWANCE FOR CASING./

VI ^(INSIDE):
STYLE 4
This sleeve (about 3/4 lenoth) is Make slashes from lower edge to cao
='>"?,3 sleeve? §uti if
steii''of'°
stead of a cuff at ^"^ spread 2' at each
lower edge, I

f'" shed with a

and elast c to hold sleeve in casing
il^^lf If I Add l/S' for casing at lower edge.
tion, just below the elbow.
posi- Allow seams to complete the
I
pattern.
V
To make sleeve in fabric, first
join
Draft sleeve 3-1/2' shorter; underarm seam, and press seam open;
s ash from bottom to elbow then then make casing at
dart and lower edge
close up dart as shown in fPenltO at underarm
diagrai, 11. Itilti
seam ^"^V elastic.
to finsert

fisfiStid?
fasten f'3^'i'
iSlfli 'Jp"* l/4'wide) and
ends together.
Divide sleeve into's equally VII
spaced Showing finished sleeve, rignt
parts, and nark sections A to side
hf
 STYIiES 39
PUSH-UP SLEEVE DRAFTS _ 2

STYLE I

tlie 'Jacii-O-
in two sections, and is called II
\ I
sisave is
The pattern. Is so «it that the uMer Then slash aion9\
Ll"e?n' lli2ve.
thus eliminaling ipnarate lower Sleeve from upper.
and IoUt sleeve sections are circular, ,
to form
j
do?ted*lin« ISd li^ead upper ^U??!'
t«9„<=|f^"i^„:,f sleeve,
the underarm^seam. j
slashing from lower edge to top in the sleeve.
and froS upper edge to bottoit in lower ,

form the Inner ,

foundation; then / Arrange the spreaded parts carefully to
"
Trace the one-Diece shaped sleeve |
circles as illustrated. /
the un-/
5 the outi inSs of the"short iloeve, mkiJJ sleeve sec-
dp rarii about 6* long, and I" narrower
each s de of the , Make the outer circles of upper and lower
^'Serarm at lower ^oe. Draw lower line
sliohtly curved. , tions alike in shape and size.
first divide sleeve into two parts, """SLS'm'
t on about 1-1/2" ong at s des, and about 5" deep at Ill
spaced parts
Unte?; then divide sTeeve Into's equally Add seams and mark corresponding notches.
as shown by dotted lines.

nes from lower-,

fulness
Illustration shows sleeve with greater part of with a Slash upper sleeve along the dotted 1 1

2' in front of sleeve

about 6- above wrist. It Is a 2 section sleeve edgl to cap, and spread apart about about
narrow band at the wrist. between sections A, B and C; then spread apart
3° between sections C, 0 .ind E, giving a little more
fulness In back.
lower sleeve from top to lo«e'- edoe^
Make slashes in
upper section
back of the' and spread sections the same amount as the
First takeout dart by making a tuck in front at at corresponding positions.
in the j
sleeve foundation pattern to nothing sleeve. between'
Add about I' to the length of the upper sleeve
,

elbow, as illustrated; then trace the /

lower sleeve- sections B and E, as shown by dotted ine.
I

Divide sleeve into 10 parts, making the and J Ill

6' and sections A, B. F, G, I
about long, .J. lines. Add seams and make corresponding notches.
about 1-1/2' wide, as shown by dotted
DRAPTINa - 2 STYLES
STYLE I

itoHt'f^f)?".
about l-i/4 h*''°"'5 extended
beyond .i>">">^^'-
the regular arnihola.

I
R»?k foundation of the Front,
Back and Sleeve as a guide.
Cut off part of sleeve cap and
apply to
JKnVif/' as follows:
shoulder,
''^f'^ "tended

Ihroudh center of
U^lL 'Tk* ^ <'°' 1-'^/''' from top
f^n^u'"*"
along T^'''*.?
the center line, and mark dots on
cap of sleeve,3" each side of the
shoul-
"<=t!°"s * B: then
mlrt''°i^h **f'*'
liSi 3«1?o.nsS!idr52iS.'"

II
Apply sections^ and B to
correspondina
position at armhole as follows:
Divide sections A and B into 3
equal
slashes from lower
up and apply to armhole, spreading edge
tions slightly as illustrated: se?-

The sleeve cap now requires

the 1-1/4"
bui Id up as fot lows:

^1*1"",^^'"'^'"'^.°' "alf and mark

iraw ine between dots. Oral
rfP'^"
mark siciiSn'^ C
Slash through center, from top
down; then
,iti diagram bringing sections C and
III ,

(or 5/8- In two places)

L"',,
equal the ar,ount cut away at to
top of Cap.
For armhole slash gathers, draw slash
sections I to K; theii slash and
as shown In dlagramllLclosIno up spread
dart and reducing 1/2" at waistline.?ront

For back, draw new center back line bv

f/is'i?''ni^r,2Jri;ii';eW?.'-'""«-

^?d^rieaSri!!d^^mrrrsntis;ti\"L"d%?"^
Ill and IV
Diagrams show walsti Ine reduced
and al-
lowance made for gathers at
armhole.
HOW TO >MKE SHOULDER PAD PATTERN
A - Trace front and back, placing pat-
tern Shoulder to shoulder and
even
at armhole.

?raw outline of pad. 1-1/2- from neck-.

-'
Mne to the corners of armhole as 1
1

lustrated.
B - Shows completed shoulder pad pattern.
C - Shows pad being tacked to correct
position on inside of garment.

STYLE 2
Sketch shows garment same as in Style I

tSndad'Sh^'H?!.^^"'^'''"^
tended '°P.and ex-
about 3/4' beyond the sh oiilder.

I and II

?fj„^lf«;« of Style 1; then divide upper

^
IS= and mark parts. Draw siSsh
lines sections A to E.
Ill and IV
Slash on dotted lines and spread,
raisi ng
sections above E, 3/4' for the
feoulred
sleeve extension' beyond the shoufde?.
FT OP YOKE AND SLEEVE IN ONE

Illustration shows shoulder extended

about i' beyond the regular armhole. The
pad holds shoulder of yoke in position.
The sleeve Is in two parts »ith seam
through center.

I
Trace the dress foundation of the Front,
Back and Sleeve; then draw the yolie seam
lines on front and back as shown by dot-
ted lines, and mark sections A. to 0.
Draw a line through center of sleeve and
sections E and F.
fflark

Mark dots on cap of sleeve, 2-1/8" each

side of the center line.

II
Cut through center of sleeve; then cut
away yoke sections and place at corres-
ponding position on sleeve cap, ((•»>'
t eavi ng

I" space between yoke and sleeve (for

"trie extended shoulder) as shown In dla-
graTi III.

For shoulder tucks, draw 3 lines, I'

apart.

Slash along tuck lines and spread, clos-

ing up front dart, and thus malting straight
center front line.
Make pleat in back at waistline, 2" high
along the dart t Ines.

Di agram shows completed pattern for waist

and sleeve

SHOUU3EI! PAD

To make shoulder pad pattern, place yoke

sections, shoulder t<5 shoulder, and even
at neckline; then draw outline of pad,
^1-1/2" from neckline to corners of arm-
C 3 hole as shown by dotted lines.
SHOULDER PAD Illustration at right shows pad being
tacked to correct position on inside of
garment.
KIMONO SLEEVE DRAFT

The folloKfing diagrams show how to draft

the kimono sleeve, using the dress front,
bacliand sleeve foundation pattern as a
guide.

Chart shows front and bacl< traced with

shoulders even at necl<iine, and i' apart
at arnhole. (For shoulder pad allowance,
make space between front and back at arm-
~ hole 1-1/2" instead of I'.

Place sleeve with top of cap overlapping

1/2' beyond the front armhole at shoul-
der, and having points A and 8 at even
distances from armhole and underarm seams
of front and back; then trace sleeve as
shown by dotted lines.

II
4 to. C - l-l/?"
Bto D -
C to 0 - Connect
C to E - Hal f of C to 0
E to F - Connect for shoulder seam line.
E to G - 2"
C to G - Connect
G to D - Connect

,.-Ora« curved line from C to 0, passing \/2' belo* point G.

This becomes the seam line for the dropped shoulder style and
divides the front and back from the sleeve.
This seam Is considered practical from the standpoint that the
garment can be cut most economically In narrow width of material.
The seam thus cut becomes the style feature of garment and elves
the appearance of a dropped shoulder.
Draw curved line at each 'side of the underarm seam above points
C and D, as shown by dotted lines.
Close up front dart, spreading dart at waistline for a pleat.

Shows completed kimono front, back and sleeve.

Seams are to be allowed.
Notches should be made at corresponding edges.
The kimono sleeve lacks the tailored appearance of the raglan or
set-in sleeve. For best results, soft and thin materials should
be used for the kimono sleeve design. If the material is wide
enough, the sleeve may be made in one piece with the front and back.
It is called a kimono sleeve style because the regular armhoie
IS el imtnated.
For short kimono sleeve style, use the front and back only as shovm
in diagram iv. tower armhole edge may be fioished with a harrow
facing, band or cuff.
FOR DEEPER ARMHOLE AMD WIDER SLEEVE
For deeper armhole, add 1-1/2" to each side of front and back as
..shown by dotted ines. i

..For wider sleeve, add 1-1/2" on each side of sleeve at top, to

nothing at bottom as indicated.
 ,

43
KIMONO SLEEVE WITH GUSSET

Illustrations bolow show 2-plece kimono sleeve with

gusset under the armi
material
This style sleeve Is most suitable in heavier
such as velveteen, woolen material, etc.
A kimono sleeve with a (lusset allows the
a™ to,fj'M
more easily, and when the arm is<'i"0PP«?'*i«
appears more tailored than the kimono sleeve without
the gusset.

I
pattern shoil-
Trace front and bacit foundation, placing Mark points A
der to shoulder, and even at neckline.
and B. u.
front.
Place sleeve foundation with top of cap touching
armhole at point B; (sleeve 5« "fl'Jfsleeve
trace sleeve as-
is-
on both sides at underarm seams) then
shown by dotted Ines.I

II
lower
Divide width of sleeve in half from point B to
edge, point C, as shown tiy dotted line.
Draw diagonal slash lines for gusset, 3' lo"?. '™
0 to E, and from F.to fi. The angle of these lij",""
be located by placing ruler from D to A
and F to A.
as follows:
For shoulder pleats In front draw lines
A to H - 1-1/2".
H to I
- I'.
J to K - I'.
H to J - Connect.
1 to K - Connect.

Ill
shoulder
•ipnarate front and back; then slash along
olelt ines from H to J and to K.and close up front
I

Make pleat at
I

8art, sirllding at shoulder for pleats.

H, 5' long, and 4-3/4" long
at 1.
section, making each
For gusset, draft diamond shaped "n-^^rarm s ash lines
line 3" long, to correspond with
of front and back. Gusset should be about 3 wide
across center.
gusset Joins to front; the light
The shaded part of
part, to back.
Seams are to be allowed on all sewing edges.
BAGLAH SLEEVE DRAFT

The fol loming diagrams show ho» to draft the

raglan sleeve, using the dress roundatron oat-
tern as a guide.

Trace front and bacic to waistline only, placino

pattern piecK shoulder to shoulder, w! th neck-
['"^^.•"'™-^« l>»<^ styoMer being 1/4' longer,
should be reduced 1/4' as shown by dotted
line.
A to B - Equals 1/3 of front armhole.
A to C - Equals 1/2 of back armhole.
-•
— Mark p9int D at
sieeve cap.
shoulder notch of

E to B - Connect.
F Center between E-B.
E to C - Connect.
G Center between E-C.
H to J - Equals width of sleeve at neckline,
making E to H twice the width, of E
to J as fol lows;
E to H - I"; then draw line from H to f.
E to J - l/2»: then draw line from J to G.
.Purve the line at points f and a in front;
at
fS dllgrL m.'^
^*"«> I* dotted lines

°" *» B and L to 0 as show by dot-

Ud*l Sm?" •<

Slash sleeve f ron K to 0 and L to D;then spread,

havino the sleeve
cap touch the shou der section at points B and 6.Th
I

s'wi if -"uiu
length-
en the underarm sein of sleeve about I-I/2'.

/or gathers at neck, slash front from neck, to dart: then close
up front dart to allow for gathers at neck is shown In diagram
v!

Allow seams on all edges but center front and back.

Make corresponding notches at arniholes and sleeve. There should
be at least 1/2" ease allowance in the sleeve between the notched.

because the^'J*** f'T? fftiill value as the set-in sleeve,

lower part of the sleeve and armhole are about the
same in construction.
It is called a raglan sleeve becauss the
shoulder section and
sleeye are in one part with the armhoie seams running
towards the
necK, in iront and back.
BAQIiAM SIiEEVBS - g STYLES

STYLE I

Use the raolan sleeve foundation pattern as

a guide.
For gathers at shoulder, drawa slash lin« on
front, from shoulder to dart; then mark sec-
tions A and B. Slash; then close up front dart
and spread for gathers as show in diaoram II.
For shoulder dart in sleeve, draw a line
through center of sleeve from top down, the
length of shoulder;then draw lines to sides
"of sleeve cap, as illustrated. Mark sections
C-D-E.

To make shoulder pad pattern, etc. ,

see_dja-,,
grains to the ri ght.

For neck' dart in back, first draw new center

back line by adding 1/4' at neck, and reducing
i/2' at waistline as shown by dotted ine;
then make neck dart 1/4' wide, and 3' long,
1-1/2" from center back, as shown in diagram
II.

n
For shoulder dart, slash from top of sleeve
down and across;then spread about J or 4
at top. The spread above E wi allow the
1 1

.shoulder to extend slightly.

Ill

Allow seams and make corresponding notches

In front and sleeve to Indicate the
position
for gathers in front.
The raglan sleeve wfth shoulder dart, gives
the garment a more tailored appearance and
better fit over the arm at shoulder.

STYLE 2
Illustration shows raolan sleeve
in one section.
I

Use the raglan front, back and sleeve foun-

dation pattern as a guide,
follows:
x.J)raft the yoke 0(1 front and back as
A to B ~Eguals 2/3 of front armhole.
C to D ~
on sleeve equals A to B on front.

E to F —Equals 2/3 of back armhole.

G to H ~on sleeve equals E to F on back.
Draw yoke lines on front and back as shown
by dotted lines.

Cut away yoke sections from front andback,

and apply to sleeve at corresponding positions.
For gathers in front, draw slash line as il-
lustrated; then slash and spread as shown
"in diaoram III.

Ill
Allow seams and make corresponding notches,
Mark grain line arrow in yoke and sleeve
parallel to center back.
Draft cuff 1-1/2' wide at lower edoe of
sleeve.
46 DROPPED SHOUIiDEB SLEEVES - 8 STYLES
STYLE I

I
Use the dress foundation front, back and
sleeve as a guide.
A to B - Equals 1/2 of front arai/iole.
C to 0 Equals A to B.
E to F sleeve equals A to B on front
armnole.
E to G - sleeve equals C to 0 on back
arnho !e.
F to 6 - Connect.
H - Center between F and G.
E to I- Draw line from E to through H,
i

1/2' below H; then draw a s[

ightly
curved I ine from F to to G. i

°ff '^^P of sleeve on line from F to

-J"'
to fa: then cut through from E to I

and apply I

^fS'k"? *" Mrtespondinfl positions at front

and back armhole between A-B, and C-D
as
shown by dotted lines in diagram II,

II
Draw V-neck line in front, 6" 'deep.
For shoulder pleat, draw line
from shoulder
slash, »Kl close up front dart,
I^-'
spreading "'r"
for shoulder pleat as shown in
diagram III,

III
Make shoulder pleat 5' long, marking with
notches at shoulder and with dots 5' below.
-Reduce the ease in front and back of sleeve
slightly below F and G as follows:
F to J - I/4'.
G to K - 1/4'; then connect from J to
to K I

for the new line at top of sleeve,

ISrJSSSiJj? ?*f"Fn, add seams and make

corresponding notches..

STYLE 2
I
Use the dropped shoulder front, back
and
sleeve pattern as a guide.
Lower neckline as indicated by dotted lines:
then draw yoke lines (slightly curved) by
continuing from dropped shoulder line to
center front and back.
For pleat in front.draw slash line and mark
sections A to E.

Separate yoke sect Ions; then slash front, and

close up front dart, spreading betweenAandS
for pleat,

sSJtfinl" 11"jV

Slash sleeve from lower edge up, and spread

about 2" between each section.
Allow seams on all but fold edges; then make
corresponding notches in yoke, front, and
back.
Mark arrows for grain lines.
 47
DEEP ARMHOLE SLEEVES - 2 S T T Ii E S
(WIK6 SLEEVE OESIfiKS)

STri-E 1
This style features a 3-1/2'
deeper armhole sleeve.
Front has d iaaonal side dart,
I

Draft deeper armhole and

vider shoulder as indicated.
Draft side dart line; then
mark sections A to C.
Close up front and waist
darts, spreading side dart
as shown in diagram II.
II
Cut out front and back along
the new armliole lines; then
trace as illustrated.
Place sleeve with cap almost
touching armhole at shoulder
and balancing sleeve evenly
at each side. Trace.
Draw front part of sleeve
cap, 1/2* away from armhole,
and widen top of sleeve from
armhole to elDo* as indi-
cated.
Ill and IV I

Trace outline of sleeve a long I

new cap lne;then divide top

I

of cap into e equal parts.

To lengthen underarm seam at
top. first draw curved slash
lines about 2" "sep «t «ach
slde;then divide In half and
The "deep armhole* s-leeve must De so con- mark sections 0 to H.
structed that it should allow the wearer Slash as Illustrated and
to raise her arm quite comfortably. spread, raising sections D
To accooipl ish this, the sleeve pattern and G, 3-1/2";, then draw un-
must he provided with extra length at derarm seam lines as indi- Allow seams and make corres-
the top of the underarm seam as demon- cated . ponding, notches.
strated in diagrams III and IV,
For example: for a 3-1/2" deeper armhole,
the sleeve underarm seam should be
lengthened 3-1/2" at the top;for an arm- STYLE 2
hole 2' deeper, add 2" to the top of
other This style features square
sleeve underarm seam, etc. In
armhole sleeve, 3/4 length,
words, as much as, the armhole is deepen- and 3' d eeper armhole.
ed, so much must be added to the length
of the underarm seam of sleeve at top.
I

Draft square armhole 3" deep,

'and 1/2" wider shoulder as
shown by dotted ines. 1

Close up front dart and

spread waist dart as shown
in diagram II.

II
Cut out front and back along
'new armhole llnes;then trace
front, back and sleeve as de-
scribed in style 1, diagram II.

Ill and IV
Trace outline ot sleeve along
new cap line and divide topi
of cap Into 8 equal parts.
3'
To lengthen underarm seam
at top, first draw slash
lines; then slash and spread
as Indicated.

For 3/4 sleeve, draft sleeve

6' shorter;then widen sleeve
si Ightly at lower edge as
shown by dotted lines.
Add I' hem at lower edge.

, Allow seams and make corres-

1 ponding notches.
 48 SLEEVE DRAFTING - 8 STYLES
DEEP ARMHOLE RASIAN SLEEVE
DEEP ARMHOLE RAGLAN SLEEVE
This style features a 2-l/2>
I deeper armhole, with shoul-
der dart n s leeve.
I

The sleeve pattern requires

lenothenino of underarm seam
at top. See information
given for "deep armhole"
sleeve on preceading pace.

Draft the deeper armhole and

broader shoulder as indi-
cated .
For neck gathers, draw slash
iina from neck to breast
point and mark sections A
and B; then slash and close
,
up front dart as shown in
/--^diagram II.
11
Draft the rajlan armhole
lines, drawing the lines
slightly curved as shown by
'.tlotisd lines. Uark sections
C to E.
Ill and IV
Trace outline of sleeve: then
cut out sections C and D and
place over top of 8 leeve cap
as illustrated.
'"^At each side of sleeve, connect
from sections C and 0 to el-
bo* line.
/ V and VI
Trace outline of sleeve along -

new shoulder section lines; '

then divide each side of up- I GATHERS
per seam into 4 epual parts.
,

To lengthen underarm seam at i

top, first draw curved slash)
lines about 2' deep at each/
side of sleeve; then divide
In half and mark sections F
to J.
Slash as illustrated and
spread, raising sections F
and I, 2-1/2"; {hen draw un
"
derarm seam ' ines si IghtI
iy
curved as shown by dotted

Allow seams and make corres-

ponding notches.

CAP SLEEVE
Cap SLEEVE
Sleeve is 4-1/2" long at center, and
I long at underarm seam.

Trace outline of sleeve;then draft cap

sleeve as shown by dotted lines.
II
Cut out sleeve alor^ the new cap sleeve ^
outline: then divide into 10 parts as
indicated. Mark sections A to J.
Ill
Make slashes along the 5 center tines
and spread, placing lower edge of sleeve^
on a straight ine. I

In order to make the lower edge of sleeve

a straight line al the way across, re-
I

"i"'"
duce slightly at each side of sleeve
between A-8, 6-c: H-l and I-j7
IV
For a faced sleeve, uake sleeve and
facing In one by reversing pattern to
other side of straight line.
 FLAT AND ROIil PITTING COLLARS 49

STyLE I — FLAT FITTING COLLAR

Illustration shows collar, Peter Pan design.

I
Trace front and back of- fitted waist or dress
foundation, overlapping 1/2° at armhole be-
x-" BACK ,> i tween B and C, and even at neckline, point A.
This wi give the collar about
1 1 /B ' rol whi ch I I

wi tend to hide the seam al

1 1 around the neck, I

Lower neckline i/2* at center front as shown

by dotted ine. I

II
Draft collar as follows:
0 to E - Equals width of col lar at center back
(about 2-3/4" ).
Draw outer edge of collar paral lei to neckline;
COLLAR then curve front of collar as illustrated,
III
This diagram shows- entire collar.
Allow seams on all edges.

STYLE 2 - .FLAT FITTING COLLAR

STYLE 2 Sketch shows sailorcol lar design. Collar also
has /8* roi at neck.
1 1

Front has a V-neckllne, about 4' deep.

SACK There Is 2' opening below collar at center
front for 'lacing.
I
'Trace front and back, overlapping shoulders
at 9rfflhoie as described above for Style I.
A to B - Equals depth of V-neck.
C-to fl - Connect for V-neckHne of front.
II
Draft collar as follows:
0 to E - Equals about 6'.
E to F - Equals 6'. Square line across at E.
F to B - Connect to complete collar draft.
II!
Diagram shows entire collar. Allow seams.

ROLL FITTING RaL FITTING

COLLARS COLLARS

B B

IV V
V VI 1
POINTED COLLAR

VII

Trace front and draw V-neckllne as follows:

A to B - 5'. Draft front part of collar as follows:
C. to B - Connect.
'
, C to J - Equals F to H on back shoulder (dia-
11 gram III ).
For stand In back of collar, flr^t trade back J to K - Equals G to H on back of col lar.
foundation; then build up stand as follows: K to B - Equals front neckline C to B, Draw
0 to E Equals twice the stand at center back. a straight line from K'to 6.
For example; If collar has a ' stand, I Apply back of collar (line G-H) to frontlllne
extend. center tack line D to E, 2', K-J), as illustrated in diagram VI.
POINTED COLLAR E to G Equals back of neck, D to F. Square VI
this line across at E. For pointed col lar, complete front part below
Ill J as shown by dotted lines (the pointed end
to H Equals 1/2 of shoulder width. of collar Is 4' long, 2' away from center front).
to H Connect. For shawl collar design, draw si Ightly curved
line from J to B.
to I Equals G to H plus 1/4'.
H to I Curve a line for lower edge of col lar.
Diagram shows outline of half of the shawl
IV or pointed col lar.
Trace back of col lar on anothersheet of paper, Add seams on all edges but. center back.
from to F to G to H to I; then cut out.
I
50 MAN NISH COLI.AK DRAFTS - 2 STYLES

COLLAR WITH SEPARATE STAND

COLLAR WITH SEPARATE STAND
Illustration shows collar with I' stand at cen-
ter front and 1-3/8* stand at center back.

COLLAR BAND
Trace front, as shown by dotted llnes;tlien draft
col lar as fol tows:
A to B - Draw straight line.
B to C - Square a line up for center from
I

stand.
C to 0 - Equais^Une A to B plus_ba5k_ot-.necK.
D^to E - Square a line down i-l /8" for stand. In
center back.
II
E to F - Square a line from E to shoulder.
F to B - Connect.
B to G - Extend line 5/8*.
Q to C - Draw a curved line.
Ill
OUTER COLLAR
D to H - Equals 0 to E plus 3/8'.
C to - About 2-1/2". Draw straijht
I ll.ne through

H to I - First square line at H; then connect to

Centef IV
Divide the outer collar section into 3 equal
parts and mark them J, K and L. Slash from lower
edge up and spread about i/B* at eacli slash, as
Illustrated. This allowance is for ease over the
shoulder.

Allow seams on all edges but center back; then

make corresponding notches.
FRONT

COLLAR AND STAND IN ONE

II lustration shows collar with I stand at cen-
ter back.

Trace front'; then draft collar as follows:

A to B - 1/2", for lower neckline.
8 to C - Draw straight line.
C to D - Continue straight line from C to b >or
back of neck (3*).

II
Trace curved neckline between B and C to. opposite
side of straight Ine. I

'
I*. This equals stand in center back,'
Draw lines D to E and from E to curved
line with the square, as Illustrated.
D to F Equals D to £ plus 3^*,

IV
B to 6 About 2-1/2* long, with point. G. l* away
from center front.
F to G •
First square a line at F; then connect
to G.

Slash collar In two places and spread, as Illus-

trated. Tnis allowance is for ease over the shoul-
der.

Allow seams. Make corresponding notches at neck-

edge.
 •

COLbAR AMD VEST IH ONE _ 2 STYLES el

The collar has a I* stand

at center back.

The vest is double breast-

ed, and is part of the
garment .

Using the fitted waist

foundation as a guide,
draft collar and vest as
fol lows:

First cut away a section of the fro"* "•'j.'^ilines.

1!.*°
come part of the vest, as shown by dotted
II
squared
Draft vest 4' wide to a point 5' above the
outline; then draw rolling line to shoulder.
Ill
section.
Fold paper on rolling line and trace vest
IV and V
given for
Draft back of collar, using the method as
the Roll Collar (Page 48).
VI
front with
Cut out back collar section and apply to Z- «
shoulder lines touching, bringing edsf of collar neck of
1

from armholo. Then draw a curved ne from

collar to vest, as shown by dotted line.

VII
Draw a curved line for the front of collar.
VIII
Diagram shows vest and collar In one, completed.
Seams are to be allowed.

STVLE 2
This vest meets at center
front, and fastens with
buttons and toops.

Vest is held at waistline

with an elastic belt.

Collar rolls in back with

a I' stand.

it is a detachable collar
and vest style which may
be worn with a jacket.

then draft the

First draw a V-neck line, 4' deep;
vest 4' wide and 1" below walsti Ine.
II

Trace vest as shown by dotted lines.

Ill and IV
shoulder as
Draft back of collar and apply to frontdraft front ot
described above for vest Style I; then
cot lar.

Seams are to be allowed so that collar and vest may

be faced.
Position For Loops--'
 SKIRT DRAFTIHG - 2 STYLES
(SiitDlified Method For Regular Sizes)

~3r

DRAFT OF FRONT
DRAFT OF BACK
A to fii/flf 5«n'«r front' length.
A to A to B - Equals center bac» length.
o I K ? from wdlst
''d'st to nip.
hip. A to
^ - 7 from waist to hip.
I

1/2' for ease. C to D - Eguals 1/4 of hio measure

a o° ? : Equa s
I hipline C-D. plus 1/2- for ease
Square across at B 6 to E - Equa s hne C-D. Square
c lo r - Ecmals center front line A-B dIus 1/3' across at B.
I'ne up from E to f,. through 0° ""•"raoa
Draw a E to t - tguals center
bacK line, less 1/4'
F J F to
wrved line,
B to G pSHSff fi!/"J'"» slightly
"^^S"
curved line. B to G ; feis 1/4 i'l^Vl^ ^'if*-ly
° r«"ie"' then connect C to n.- 4 *ith 1/8 grade for each size.
from G to D :
,
A to
H to . f^SffJ'^/of measure plus 1/2- for ease
'irt, r wide at po nt J,
J to 0 ; Cinni^t'"!?/!?
line from A fo *; A to V ' c. ?^P?1
K to L I??? "I?' If'sure
thiiV SluS l-'for dart.
'""'^ llii«.fro« L t o A.
L to D : &nn«t?

° '° " " """OO

the back as described for the front. to
«moleti''?H2'hl!.:"^i'-
complete

"O""!' Dand 1-1/2" wide finished

n?i "JhS^^JjSti, "f"' .«
"""""
l2ft s?d%'XlnSf
Draw curved hipline parallel to
lower curved Hne. To complete pattern, allow for
seams and hem.

l-PIECE SKIRT WITH PLEATED INSETS

This style features Inverted
pleats at lower part of center
front and bacK which adds to the
sweep at lower edge.

DRAFT OF FRONT
DRAFT OF BACK

foJndatlon; then add a 2- pleat Ill and IV

Jf"lo2eVi;;t
at lower part Sf
of center front as shown by, dotted
.,.

Make 1/2- dart, 4" long at center of

lines "i .'"Mounlation, then make the pleat
"'."t'' a"" I'notI' as for the front,
waistline. ?E?= i33f
thus adding ini*.'*!?
16" to the lo*er edge sweep
of SKI rt.
Allow for seams and hem.
width'Snd";i„'ilh';?»,2,??'™^«>'«l'"« to fit the
 53
DRAFT OF 4-PIECE FLARED SKIRT
Illustration shows skirt on tlie bias »t center
front and back;straight at side seans.
Waist-
band is I' wide finished.

Draft according to the foiloiiiing neasureeents

Front length 27', HID ci reui«.,.-.37
Back 27i'
. Waist. ' 28'
I
Bottom • 72' I

l<i.
I

to B Equals center front length.

to C Equals 6-1/2"
to 0 Equals half of hlo circumference plus
I' for ease.
Square this line across at C.
C to E - Equals 1/3 of line C to D; then
draw
an arc line above D about 10' long,
pivoting at E,
rcumference.
B to F - Equals IM-of lower edge ci
,
-
Square this line across at 8.
- Equals B to F. Before drawing this
F to G
line, place square by touching point
F for lower edge, and touching
outer
curve of arc line for center back line;
then draw G to F for bottom line, and
G to H for center back line.
II

To curve bottom line, draft as follows:

B to J - Equals half of B to f.
G to K - Equals hal f of G to F.
J to K - Connect; then draw
curved line.

For waistline, draft as follows:

A to L - Equals 1/4 the distance
between A to H.
Square this line across at A.
H to H - Equals line A to L.
Square this line at H;then connect 1.
to M, and draw curved line.
I. to N - Equals half of L to M.
to 0 - Equals half 9f J tolK.
to 0 - Connect for side sfaii line.

Ill
0 to P - Equals B to C.
curved hip iinc
G to 0 - Equals B to C. Draw
from 0 to P to C parallel to botton
'curved line. ,,. ,
. w *
N to R - Equals reduction at
waistline (about
1/2'); then connect from R to P.
the side seam
Draw grain line arrows parallel to
notches. Add
Allow seams and make co rres^ondi no
hem at lower edge (about

The diagrm below shows cutting layout for 54

plaid material.
roiD

SIDE VIEW
 6. -GORED SKIRT STYLES

STVLE I
STYLE
This skirt Is cut In 6 cores
and has a 60" sxeep at lower
adgst
1 \s<*V \
l'>^ \ \
To draft outline of skirt, use
eomiilete directions given for
a \^ % O 1
the 4-olec6 flared skirt, page
53,
all
diagrams I and II. using
the measurements except
'
\l
» 1
W \
the bottom, which Is 60'.

S \ FRONT \ ^ \ ^
3 \ 5?"^ 8 gored skirt, first
tlis, curved hipl ne as
^^fCl* "Motte'l I lie; then
"5j?fJ
SrSIL faai" lines for the

II iiH**''; k'!^'"'"9 t"" panels

i\ Xi?f
at bottom.
»™ 5-1/2- wide

in
Make reduction at waistline
from waist tohlpilne. by draw-
ing si Ightly curved ines as I

shown by dotted lines. Mark

corresponding notches.

IV
for. waistband malw a double
band I' wide finished and the
length of the waist measure,
P us 3/4' extension for left
side opening.

To complete the skirt pattern,

al low for seams and add hem at
bottom.

STYLE 2
STYLE 2
This skirt features a narrow
front pane I, with gathers above
hip in the side sections.

Using the front sections as a

guide, make panel i" narrower,
and side section ! wider.
11. HI and IV
For gathers, divide front edge
above hlpline into 4 eoual
parts; side edge Into 3 equal
parts.
Draw slash lines as indicated;
then slash and spread for gath-
ers.
Make corresponding notches.
NOTE: The space for gathers
(between notches) should mea-
sure at least 1-1/2 times the
length of the plain edge.

STYLE 3 STYLE 3
Sketch shows wide gathered front
GATHER panel with inside pocket at each
side of panel. Openings are trim-
med with ruffles.
I
Using the front sections as a
guide make panel, I' wider,
and side section i" narrower.
II and III
I
For gathers at waistline, dl-
1 ^1 V de panel into 3 parts; then
slash and spread, increasing
the upper edge about 2-1/2"
and making lower edge, equal
I

5 the upper edge.

I 6 IV
Draft pocket and' ruff ie for a
6" pocket opening, making the
ruffle I" X 9- finished.
 ,

66
PEG-TOP SKIRT DRAFTING
STYLE I.
STYLE give the
This style features pleats in front, «ihich
peg-top effect.
position with a pointed.iloke.
The pleats are held in
the sweep
The back of skirt is plain in design and
at lower edge is about 46 or 48 .

used should be soft, thin, and plUble.

The fabrics

this style, use skirt

To draft front of skirt for
front foundation as a guide.

yoke as shorn
Trace outline of front:''then draft the
in the diagram, and mark
section A.
Draw the 3 pleat lines as follows:
lower yoke line into 4 eaual parts;
First divide parts.
ihen d vide lower skirt line into 2 equa| waistline.
'Mark a dot on side seam llne,IO' below
llnes.and
Draw the pleat lines as shown by dotted
mark sections B to E.

II
To allow for Pl"t^fl«^^?l«*f" SiJS^'^stfaigh"?
to side, and spread for pl«at. 5
line at side siam. Then slash along the other 2
spread for pleats as
-1151s from top to bottom and
indicated on the diagram.

Ill
the Pl«at li""
Complete the pattern by marking
St 2° longilhen allow seams on all sewing edges,
and add hem at lower edge.

STYLE 2.
th 6 pleats on
Illustration shows peg-top skirt wi
each side of canter front.
on the inside,
The pleats are stitched together
iavini the pleats nearest t° the side °"eL
seam. '™"hf
long, to about 2" long nearest to

The «thod of^ making the Pft'^;"

snouio
No. 1. and the a lowance for the b P eats
Style I.
tStal the allowance for the 3 pleats in
rt a greater al-
For a more prominent peg-top Sk i

lowance for pleats may be made.

and divide
Trace outline Of skirt front foundation,
then draw the
tbi bottom line into 3 equal parts;
shown by dotted lines.
"pleat lines as

II

slash along the

To allow for the 6 pleats, first s de,
lines between A-B and C, from waistline
to
2 pleats, forming a straight line
and spread for
at side seam. 1 . k.t
slash along the other 3 lines from top to bot-
"Then
tom, and spread as indicated.

Ill
the correct stitch'
Draw the pleat lines.indicating
ing length for each pleat.
To complete the pattern, add seams on the sewing
edges, and add a hem at lower edge.
PEG-TOP SKIRT DRAFTING

"^9*' peg-top design,

I5i J-^. ?
the skirt having side pockets Ini
a pleats or each side of center
front.

I
Trace outline of skirt front foun-
dation, and divide bottom line
into 3 equal parts.
Draw slash lines for the pocket.
co«l and pleats as shown bv dot-
ted lines; then mark sections
A

II
To straighten side seam line,
s ash between A and Cfrom waist-
line to nip and across to side-
I then spread, formino a straight
>llne at side seam.

Ill and IV
Continue slashing from hip to
bottom, and spread 14' at top for
?«liet opening;then
til.Jm
slash between C and 0 and false
i^seption C to the top as Illus-
trated.

Slash along remaining pleat lines

from top to bottom, and spread
for p eats and cowl as shown in
the diagram.

VI
Add pocket section as shown by
dotted lines; then add seams and
indicate pleats with notches.
Mark grain line arrow parallel
to the side seam making front
part of Skirt bias. This will
allow the pleats and cowl to fall
In soft folds.

VII
After cutting out matei-ial,
center front seam; then make Join
pleats and baste at upper edge.
To form pocket, turn material
.right sides together, and Join
seam as indicated. Turn riobt
side out.

VIII
Sew a stay piece to Inside to hold
poCKSts and pleats in position.

IX
.This illustration shows
view of skirt front. """i"*
outside
DKAPT OF CIBCUIiAR SKIBT
Illustrations show a2-piece
-
circular skirt, with the fu
ness distributed evenly alt
around.

The skirt is so circular that

center front and center back
of skirt is on the cross»ise
of goods, and the side seams
are lengthwise as shown in the
cutting ayout below (diagra'"
I

To draft the skirt, use the

plain 2-piece skirt foundation
as a gui de.

Trace outline of front and

back, but continue side searn
-.lines straight to the top as
ndi cated.
t

Divide each skirt section Into

3 equal parts as stown by dotted
lines, and mark sections A to F;
then reduce at waistline by
drawino V-shaped lines from
waist to tilpline as Indicated.

Reduce waistline In front by

bringing sections A,B and C
. together above the hipline and
^spreading below hip as illus-
trated.

Repeat process for back of skirt.

in
For additional fulness at Icwier
edge, make slashes in skirt
front frorr. hip towaistlinei
then spread, placing sections
A and C against the square as
Indicated.

Repeat process for skirt back.

Draw circular lines for bottom
of skirt.

For waistband, make. a double

band 1-1/2' wide finished and
the length of waist measure,
plus 3/4' extension for left
side opening.

To complete pattern, add seams

on ail sewing edges, and add
a narrow hem at lower edge.

IV

Diagram shows cutting 'wou*

for skirt. Dotted lines indi-
cated other half of (font and
back.
SKIRT DRAFTING

IJustratlon shows sports skirt

I

»ith pleated side sections, and

an
inverted pleat at lower part
of center back.

Skirt has a seam at center back

above the pleat, with darts at top.

Trace the outline of the 2-piece

skirt foundation; then trace Uie
2 darts in back,

Divide front into 4 parts, as shown

by dotted Iines, making section A
^,4 wide, 3" below hip, and 4~i/2»
Wide at bottom; then divide side
•-ssct^on into 3 parts of equal

. — Separate the front, side and back:

then add a pleat In back 12' long
and 4' wide. "

-4'
If waistline requires further re-
,
duction, draw line from hip to
5 r?'"'''*'' MBunt, as shown
by dotted line at center back.

The lines between B, C and D are

vfhe poa tlon where the pleats are
to be al lowed.

Ill
Allow for 2 side pi'eats in side
section. The amount to be allowed
for the pleats depends on the de-
sired width at lower edge, the
,

usual allowance being about 3'

for each pleat.

Allow seams on all edges but cen-

ter front. Make a wider seam al-
^lowance at center back. This is
for machine stitching each side
of the seam. Add for a hem rft
lower edge. Make corresponding
notches.
SKIRT DRAFTING

Sketch shows skirt in 4 parts. The

yoke has no darts and pattern is
so cut that it fits smoothly over
the hip.

The circular skirt and the yoke

is divided by a zifl-zag seam line
around the hi pi ine*

Skirt has the fulness falling In

a large fold below each point of
the yoke.

Trace the outline of the 2-pieoe

skirt foundation and divide front
and back Into 4 eouSI parts at
hlpllne and lower edge.

Draw straight lines from bottom,

through hip.txt waistline, as shown
by dotted lines;then draw the zig-
zag lines, beginning at center
front, l-l/Z' above hip, down to I"
'below hlpllne, and up 1-1/2' above
hip at side seam, etc. #
Reduce at waistline the required
amount by drawing V-shaped lines
down to r below hip as lllustrat-

II

Separate the yoke and ski rt sec-

tions; then reduce walsti Ine In
yoke by joining sections A and B
in one, and sections C and 0 in one
as 1lustrated.
1

The lines between E and F, and G

'and H are the positions where the
fulness Is to be allowed.

Slash front and back from lower

edge up. and spread the desired
amount for fulness, al lowing about
8' for each fold at lower edge.

Add seam allowance on al edges

I

but center front and back. Add

for a hem at lower edge. Make cor-
responding notched.
60 SKIRT DRAFTING

STYLE 2
Sketch shows skirt with pleated
side sections.
|

The w*e sections are In one piece

with the front and back.

Each side section has 2 side pleats i

and inverted pleat.

I

Trace the 2-piece skirt founda-

tion, draw the hipllne, and divide
draft Into 8 parts as follows:
Make sections A and 0' 4" wide at
-.hip and 4-1/2' wide at Iwttoin.
Divide side section into 4 equal
•P^.It*;
Lower the yoke seam line
.,1/2'below hip in front, to noth-
ing in back.

Reduce waist ine In front and back

I

above the center of sections E and

H, making the reduction in back
about twice the amount of reduc-
tion in front.

Separate the front, back and side

sections;then reduce waistline by
vbrinoino sections A and 8 togeth-
er and sections C and D togetlier.

The lines between sections E, F, G

and H, are the positions where
pleats are to be added.

ni
Allow for 2 side pleats and in- I

verted pleat as illustrated. The

amount to be al lowed for the pleats
depends on the desired width at
lower edge of skirt. For example:
If the original plain skirt, size
Id, measures about 1-1/4 yards at
bottom, and 2 yards is the de-
sired width, allow 3-1/2' for each
side pleat, and 7' for the In-
verted pleat.

Add seam allowance on all edges

but center front and back. Add
for a hem at lower edge. Make cor-
responding notches.
DRAFT OP CULOTTES 61

Sketch »ho*s front and back view »f culottes with Inr

verted eleat at center front and back. w
This style Is a combination of skirt and trousers In
one (skirt length), and Is suitable for sportswear.

Trace outline of the 2-piece skirt; then draft the

culottes as fol lows:

A to B Equals center front length.

. C to 0 Equals center back length.
E to f Equals si de length.
E to S Equals crotch depth length plus 1' for ease
al lowance.
8 to N Equals F to G.
D to J Equals F to G; then connect fron H to j for
crotch line.
to K Equals half of H to G less 1'. Square this
1Ine across at H,
- k to L Equals H to B; then square down at K.
to B Connect.
to M Equals half of G to J, plus 1'. ^quare this
line across at J.
to N Equals J to D; then square down at M.
to D Connect.
H to 0 Equals S'. Draw diagonal line from H to 0;
then draw a curved line from center front
to K through 0.
to P Equals 2-1/2"; then draw a curved line from
center back to M through point P.

Cut out the front and back sections and use the cen»
, ter front and back lines for pleat lines; then mark
*
^sections 1-2-3-4,

Slash along center front and back lines; then spread

about 3' for each pleat as Illustrated. Allow seans
on all edges and nake corresponding notches.
 , ,

62 SLACKS AND SLIM PAHTS DRAFTING

HON TO DRAFT THE SUCKS PATTEfiH

EQuals side length irieasurenient.

Equals 6-3/4" for die 12
6-7/8* for size 14
7' for s! ze 16 and up.
Equal s 1/4 of h flieasureRient plus 3/4'
j for ease. Square this line
across at C.
Saeie length as C to 0. Extend line 0-C to E then pivoting at D,
draw an arc- line above E.
Equals crotch death ff.aasurement dIus I" for ease. Mark point F on
line A-e,
Equals hipline D-£. Draw this line through F, parallel to hioline
0-E.
Square this line up at G through 0, making this line 1/2' less
than A to F.
Equals 1/2 of line f to H, Extend line G-H to J.
Equals 1/2 of line H to J
Equals line G-l (center front) plus 2" for center back line. Draw
this line from K to L touching the outer most curve of arc line.
Equals length frors K to J.
Equals l-l/2\ Draw a diagonal line; then draw a curved line frOi^i
D to M through S' SLACKS
Equals l~!/4', Dra» a curved line through 0.
Equals length F to S. Square a line down at 6.
Equals length F to 6. Square a line -down at K.
Connect for lower edge.
Equals 1/2 of line P to 0.
Square a Irna across at R for knee l)n«;th«n draw slightly curved
lines fron M to R and J to S for inner lag seam.
Equals r
Connect,
II
Draw waistline, slightly curved, from to A to L. Reduce waUt-
I

|[n« to fit 1/2 of waist neasure. First aake part of reduction at

sides and center front. Then make a dart In back and a pleat in
front as follows:
Equals 1/2 of C to £.
Equals 1/2 of back waistline; than draw a V-sh^ped dart, 6' long.
Equals 1/2 of D to C.
Equals D to ; then draw a V-shaped dart.
111

For crease lines on front and back, divide the knee

"and lower lines In half; then draw crease lines Bottom Width 184"
froa bottom to hipllns. Size Id

WAISTBAND
LIM PANTS
Joe vaistband, <Dake a double bartd 1-1/2* widb fin-
ished and the length of waist nsasure plus 3/4' ex-
tension for left side opening.

To complete pattern^ allow for saaas and hen. Make

corresponding notches.

HOI TO TAKE MEASUREMENTS

WAIST — TaRe snug Eieasurefnent,
7' below Kaisthne.
HIP
CROTCH DEPTH
SIDE LENGTH —~
Froo waist to chair.
Froa waist to ankle.

CORRESPONDING BODY MEA'SUREMEHTS

SIZE li 14 16 18 20 40 4f «4
«AlST S6 30 32 34 36 33
HIP 33 35 37 39 43 46
41 47 Bottom
SIDE LENGTH «i 41 4 It 411 42 42 42 42
f.^
for SLIM PANTS, CROTOI DEPTH 121 121 13 I3i i3i I3t 14 i4i
Width 124"
v_reduce as indicated,. (I' ease included) Size le
 SHORTS DRAFTING STYLES

STYLE I

Illustration shows plain shorts

design with darts in back for close
f 1 tt I ng wai st I i ne.

I
Using the s lacks foundation as
a guide, trace front and back to a
little below the crotch depth, as
shown by dotted lines.
Instead of the \fz* pleat, ease at
front walsti Ine.

ir
For a slight additional flare at
sides, add 1" to front and I* to
back at bottom to nothing at hip.
Tor additional flare near inside
leg seam, draw slash lines in front
and back, 2' from seam and mahk
sections A,B,C and D; then slash
and spread about *
at bottom, as I

shown in diagraffl III.

Ill
Straighten lower edge as shown by
dotted lines.
Draw tjrain line arrows by squaring
from hipl ine.

Add seatns on al edges and hem at

I

bottom; then make corresponding

notches.

FRONT

FRONT

STYLE 2 Separate yoke and front section; then draw pteat lines,
Sketch shows yoke in front with side pleats below yoke squaring them from bottom. Mark sections 4«6 and C.
about l-l 12* apart.
Ill
Sack is same as In Style I.
Slash along pleat lines and spread about 2* for each
pleat.

IV
I
Allow for seams and hem, as shown by dotted
Use shorts front of Style i, shown above in diagram
III, as-a guide. Designate the width of pleats with notches.
Draw yoke line slightly curved as i I lust rated. Place center front of yoke on fold of goods.
64 DRAFT OP PINAPOBE - 2 STYLES
3TVLE I

Oress consists of bodice with ruf-

fle, waistband, and dirndl skirt.
Orsss has a back closing, and may
be worn with or without sleeves.
For sleeveless dress, make bodice
fit closer arognd the bust as shown
In stylo 2 below, (diagram iT.

Usino the dress foundation (hip

3= }!/{ ienoth), divide front and back as
rr-i-y^--, WAIST I
— ffTTT '

shown by dotted Unas; than draft

waistband, 1-1/2" wide, and mark
sections A to K.

BACK 1 II
^Separate the bodice, waistband and
hip sections, and eliminate the
darts on the waistbands.
CENT6lt BACK
Draft the square neck In front and
back as shown by dotted llnss.

Ill
Draft the ruffle in front and back,
3-1/2' wide at top and I-I/2' wide
at bottom; then lenothen ruffle for
gathers, making oattera hal f tines
greater in length than the original
Tength.

for skirt, continue center front

line down below hip, 20", and square
line across at bottom, at least
twice the size of the front waist-
band; then complete the front of
skirt as shown by dotted linos. Re-
peat same process for back of ski rt.

For back closing overlap, add 3/4"

.to center back on the 3 sections:
then mark position for buttonholes,
pocket, 7" s 7" for skirt

Add seams and hems as Illustrated;

then make corresponding notches.

STYLE 2
Ihe ski and waistband is same as
1*1
for sty e I above.
t

To draft the bodice, use the upper

pari of the dress foundation as a
guide.

Reduce width of front and back at

bitstllne to nothing at lower edge.
For armhole dart, draw line from
armhole to breast point, Mark sec-
tions A and B; then slash and spread
..by closing up front dart as shown
In diagram II.
II
Draft- new necklines In front and
back as shown by dotted lines; then
for back closing overlap, add 3/4"
^to center back.

Ill
Draft shoulder strap in front and
back as shown by dotted lines.
I?
ShouJder strap may be made into one
pattern by joining at shoulder line.
Add hem in back; then allow seams
and make corresponding notches.
 DRAFT OF PLATSUIT

Garment consists of a bodice, waist-

band and shorts.
lit has a front closing to iiipline.

Shorts feature side pleats in front

^ \
and back.

FRONT 1 r

Trace dress foundation (hip length)*

B then draft the waistband, t-r/2'
wide as shown by dotted lines. Mark
sections A to I.
tQ- II
"^..Separate the bodice,wai stband, and
H hip sections, and el iminate the
HIP lineI darts on ttie waistbands.
Reduce width of front and back at
busti Ine to nothlnp at lower edge
as shown by dotted lines.

Ill
Draft deeper neckline and armhole
In front and back.
Add 3/4* to center front of bodice
and waistband for front closing
overlap; then add a 2' hem In front
as shown by dotted lines.
IV
Mark position for buttonholes at
even intervals; then add seans and
maite corresponding notches.
In place of the waist darts In front
and back, mark gathering lines at
wai sti ine.

DRAFT OF SHORTS
V

Using the hip part of the dress

foundation) first trace the front
section; then square a line across
Jindeflnite length) at hioline.
Place back section on hipllne, 2*
from front, lifting center hack,
1-1/2* above hi pi ine; then trace.
Shift dart, 2' toward the side,
making the dart 6' long, and I* wide
_at walstl ine.
VI
Continue the center and side lines
down to crotch depth, making the
crotch line 6" below hip for size
16, with 1/4", grade for each size.

VII
Continue the crotch line across, 4*
beyond center front and back for
'size 16, with i/8* grade for each
size; tlien lengthen shorts, 4' be-
low the crotch line. Draw the cur-
"ved lines at center front and back
jbelow hipllne.
Reduce side seams at waistline to
CENTER FRONT nothing at hJp as shown by dotted
Jines.
.
2'. r 2*/j'
For front closing overlap, add 3/4*
to center front rrofl waist to hip.
For pleats, draw lines in front and
back as indicated; then slash and
spread as shown in diagram VIII,

Add seams and hems; then make cor-

responding, notches.
/

JACKET AND COAT FOUNDATION

JACKET FOUNDATICH
I , ya A^i
Using the dress foundatfon as a j^jide,
trace front and back 1/4* apart at
side seam; then broaden the shoulders
t/2', lower the armhole 1/2", and lower
the neckline 1/6" as shown by dotted
lines.
J.J.

For single breasted jacket, add 3/4*

to center front; for double breasted,
about 3'.
For jacket sleeve, use method of draft-
ing as given for dress sleeve, but
making cap height 1/2" greater than
for the dress sleeve, due to. the deeper
armhole.
Ill QRAFT OF JACKET SLEEVE
This chart shows draft of sleeve made
III JACKET SLEEVE wider at arm and elbow to provide the
jacket sleeve with Greater width than
DRAFT the dress sleeve. The underarm length
is 17-3/4'.
rv
/UPPER\
The dotted lines show the shaping of
the sleeve 1-1/2* forward, and 5'
wide at lower edge.

Mark the position for seams v»hrch form

the under sleeve section, The extension
at the lower back edge is for the
placket.

VI
Complete the upper sleeve section by
tracing the front and back parts, as
shown by dotted lines.

COAT FOUNDATION

Using the dress foundation as a guide,

trace f ront and back 1/2* apart at side
.seam. Lower the neckline i/4' and
armhole '.then broaden shoulders 1/2'
I

! n
For a single breasted coat, add I' to
center f ront for
; double breasted,
apout 3-1/2".
F6r coat sleeve, use the same method
3(s given for the dress sleeve, but
n)ake cap height 1' 'greater than the
dress sleeve.
Ill DRAFT OF COAT SLEEVE
this chart shows draft of sleeve made
with the dimensions of a
Ho conform
'coat sleeve, with underarm length
/ 17-3/4.".
IV
For a slightly shaped sleeve, bring
lower part of sleeve forward about
3/4*.

Trace front and back of sleeve as in-

dicated by dotted lines; then draw a
V-shaped dart along back of sleeve at
elbow.

NOT£: For Jacket and Coat foundations,

seams are to be allowed on all sewing
edges.
 . .

JACKET AHD COAT SHOULDER PAD 87

'A
HO* TO DRAFT THE JACKET PAD 1. to M - 5' for size 16 (with i/8*grade for each 2 sizes).
J to M - Connect. ^ ,
, .
,

Mak« shoulder, pad pattern In 4 sections. M to K - Connect; then draw curved lines as shown In
Section 4' Is used only when making a pad cover. diagram II. , . , . ,

Draw a V-shaped dart 4* long and 1/2* wide at point L.

The pad cover Is used mainly for unllned Jackets and Coats.
I and II Ill
Draft top sections of pad as follows: To cofflpiete the pattern for the pad cover, allow ssams
A to 8 - 10' for size |6 (with l/3"9rade for each size). (about 1/4'ji and make cor responding notches.
A to C - 5'. (This equals lialf of A to B). Mark ssctlons I to 4.
C to D - 4-3M' for size 16 (wltti 1/8' orade for each
2 sizes).
A to 0 - Connect. FOR THE COAT PAD
D to B - Connectithen draw curved lines as shown In dia-
gram II. Make draft, same as for the jacket pad, but make the
fol lowino changes:
Draft outer soetlon of pad as follows; A to B - 12' G to H - 3-3/8"
E to F - 7-3/4" tor size 16 (with 1/8' grade for each A to C - 6- J to K - Tl'
s ze
i ) E to F - 8-1/2' J to L - 5-1/2'
E to G - 3-7/8'. (This eouals half of E to F). E to G - 4-1/4' . .

G to H - 2-7/8' Make V-shaped dart I* wide. at point L.

H to I - T-3/8'. This represents the tliickest part of
the pad. Then draw curved lines as shown in
IV
diagram II.
H0# TO ADJUST PATTERN FOR SHOtlLDER PAD
Finally draft bottom of pad as follows:
J to K - 9' for size 16 (with 1/8* grade for each size).
Adjust front, back and sleeve according to the direc-
J to L - 4-1/2*. (This equals half of J to K).
tions given for the dress pad on page I5.

MUSLIN

HCW TO MAKE THE JACKET PAD v and VI

After ^„„,„,
cutting „ section „ 3 in
i in, -trim away 1/4"
I

aliowanc. on outer edge; then make dart by stltch-

seam allowance
Cut out sections 1 and 2 In erinollnsi then stitch seam, on dart lines
ing together
taking up 1/4' seam.
VII
Place muslin against cotton sideof shoulder pad and baste.
Press seam open; then cut away 1/4' seam allowance on
outer edge. VIII
This diagram snows finished pad,
Ill and IV
Cut layer of cotton batting, the same shape as crino-
i
IX and X - PAD COVER
lineithen cut 4 more layers, each 3/4" smaller on shoul-
der edges (for coat cut- 6 more layers, eacli 1/2" smaller Seam section to section- 2; then sew section -4 to sec-
I

on shoulder edges). Arrange in position as Illustrated; tions 1, 2 and 3 taking up i/4' seams. Turn right side
then place crlnol Ine on top and baste, thinning baiting out. Slip pad between edges of cover. Stitch raw edges
to nothing at shoulder edges* together; then overcast.
WITH NOTCH COLLAR
Jacket, single breasted, with shoul-
der or neck dart fitting.
Waist darts form fitted waist-
I ine.
Jacket has a seam at center back
and darts at back neckedge.
The collar has a 1-1/4' stand at
center back, and t' stand at shoul-
der seam.
I

Usino the jacket foundation, mark

position for shoulder dart; then
continue to draw a straight line
at center front, as shown by dotted
I Ines.
Ji
For shoulder dart, swing upper
part of front to within 1/2* of
dotted tine by pivoting at breast
point.
Ill
For single breasted jacket, add
3/4' to center front, bringing line
to 4" above waistline. From that
point, draft the rolling line, stop-
ping I' away from neck.at-snoulder

Fold on rolling line; then trace

neck and center front, as shown by
dotted line.
A to 6 - l/4\ (For heavier mate-
rial as cheviot, etc.,
Jtiarkpoint B 3/8' from A),
This gives the outer edge
of the collar the neces-
sary ease over th^ shoulder
0- Mark point D In center between A and C
V
B tc E - 3'. This equals back of neck. Oraw a stra ight
line from D to E through B.
E to F - i-l/4'. This equals the stand of collar at back
of neck. Square a line across at E.
to G - 3'. This ine is twice the col lar stand plus 1/2'.
I I

G to H - Square a line down to shoulder seam.

C to - 172'. Mark point I, i/2' below C,m center front line.
I

0 to J - Draw a straight line fromDtoJ, 1/2" past I

•! C " i"?',!'- i"»king point K about 3' below H.

J to L - 2-1/2'. Oraw this line about i/4' below K..
L to M - Draw a slightly curved line.
F to N - Connect for rolling line.

Trace revers to complete the front.

VII
For facing, trace front, making It I' wide at shoulder
and 4' wide at lower edge, .

vin
Lengthen facing 1-1/2' to correspond with the front, as
shown in diagram XI.
Make upper collar 1/8" wider than under collar.
IX
For neck dart, mark a ine from neck (1/2" from rolling
Iine) to breast point.

Close shoulder dart to form neck dart;then draw V-shaped

dart about 4" long.
Draw 2 waist darts 6" long, 3' above and 3' below the
waistline. Make each dart 1/2' wide at waistline.
XI
Complete draft by tracing back foundation to the front
with side seams even; shift side seam toward back 2' and
reduce I" each side of line at waist.
Draw new center back line, reducing 1/2" at waist, and
adding 1/4' at neck.
Make a neck dart 3' long and 1-1/2' from center back.
Lengthen I' at center back and 1-1/2' at center front.
 DRAFT OP CARDIGAN JACKET 69

CARDIGAN
This style Jacket Is usually
single breasted with a V-neck front.
Some of the features of this style
are as fol lows:
front shoulder tuck, 1-1/4' deep
at armhole.
OouHle waist darts In front be-
low waisti Ine.
Shoulder dart in back.
Seam at center back with waist
darts In back, 10" long.

Use the jacket foundation to draft

this pattern.
Mark position for shoulder tuck
slash Ine, from shoulder to bust
I

and dwn to tilpllne as Indicated.

Mark sections, A to C.

II
Slash from shoulder to bust and
vswing section A to within 1/2'
S" "i of dotted line,

III
FRONT ^ To make the 1-1/4' deep shoulder
\
,
tuck, slash from bust to hipline
^and spread section C, 2-1/2" at
shoulder, as Illustrated.
Mark dots on tuck lines to Indi-
cate a 4' long tuck.

< —
IV
For single breasted closing, add 3/4 (maximum I'} to
1 VM LINE 1 center front.
Draft V-neck tine, 5' below high neckline.
Lengthen jacket front 1-1/2" at center front and I'
at side seam.
Mark position for buttons and buttonholes, about 3-1/2'
apart at center front.

Draft the waist darts,8' long (4° belcw, and 4' above
^ the waistline, as Indicated. Use the part of the darts
In diagram v.
''below waistline only, as shown
Curve the side seam slightly below waistline.

V and VI
Draft facing 1-1/2" wide at shoulder and 3' wide below
bust. Add I* hem at bottom of front.
Draft ebcket S" deep and S-l/2' wide; then add I* hem
at tpp^f pocket.

VII
HIP LINC 1 -—Reduce' 1/2" at center back waistline, to nothing at
hip and bustllne,
WSSZ^^' Indrease the 1/4' shoulder dart In back to 3/4", as
^shown In diagram VIII.

Draft the back waist dart, 10' long.

Lengthen back, I' below htpllne: then curve the center
back and side seam line, slightly.

IX
Add I' hem at bottom of back.
Draft the neck facing, 1-1/2' wide, as shown by dotted
I Ines.

To complete the pattern, add seams and make corresoondr

Ing notches.
70 DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET
Sketches show the front and
side view of the jacket.
Front has shoulder dart and
waist dart fitting.
Back has a seam at center
b&ck and is in 4 sections.
Jacket has the regular notch
col lar.
Use the jacket foundation to
draft this pattern.

Mark position for shoulder

dart; then continue to draw
a straight line to the top
at center front,

II
For shoulder dart, swtno up-
per part of front to within
1/2' of dotted line.

For double-breasted front,

add 3* to center front, brina-
ifiQ line !• above the waist-
line. From that point, draw
the. rolHno line, as shown
by dotted line, stopping I'
away from neck at shoulder.

IV
Fold paper on rolling line;
then trace neck, center front,
and part of shoulder, as
shown by dotted ines.
I

UPPER
COLLAR

Draft the notch collar and revers, using the same

method and directions as given for the notch col lar of
single breasted jacket.

Complete the front by tracing the reverb, as shown by

dotted lines.

This diagram shows front and uflder collar separated.

Dotted line Indicates the rolling tine.

For upper collar, trace under collar 1/6" wider.

For front facing, trace front, maklno facing I' wide
at shoulder and 4' wide at waistline and lower edge.
Draw a waist dart in front 10' long, 5' above and 5*
below waistline, and 4* from side seam.
\F«CING / / Complete Jacket draft by tracing the back foOndation;
then draw new center back lines and neck dart as for
POCKET- \I the single breasted jacket.
/
WELT /
Divide tfie back into two sections, and reduce at waist-
/
line, as indicated in the diagram.
/

/ Lengthen jacket; then mark position for pockets.

This diagram shows ttie outline of the pattern pieces

traced from the draft.
®
r 1
f Curve the seam lines of the back sections at the corners,
near the armhote.
 ,

JACKET WITH SH AW Ii COLLAR

Illustration shows jacket fastened

with' link buttons at waistline.
Collar has 1-1/4' stand at center
back, and 1
* stand at shoulder seam.
Upper collar and front facing are
in one piece, with seam at center
back.
Jacket is a 7 gore style.

Usino the jacket foundation, mark

position for seam In front, from
shoulder to breast polntithen draw
a straight line at center front,
as shown by dotted line.
n
Swing upper part of front to with-
in 1/2.' of dotted line, pivoting
at breast point; then trace.

HI
Draw the rolling line from waist-
line up, beginning at center front
and stopping 1' away from neck at

M /
shoulder seam.
IV
Fold paper on rolling line; then
trace neck, center front, and part
of shoulder, as shown by dotted
/ / 1 i nes.

Draft the shawl collar from A to

I, using the same method and dimen-
sions as for the notch collar;then
continue as fol lows:

0 to J - Draw a straight line from

D to J. ' past I 1

H to K - Draw a slightly curved line,

<- UNDER Vin UNDER passing through point J.
COLLAR COLLAR
VI

Fold paper on rolling line and trace revers to complete

front.

This diagram shows under collar and front separated with

the rolling line indicating the stand in collar.

for facing and upper collar in one. place under Co lar to

n^ckedge of front and trace, making facing I" wide at
COLLAR AND shoulder, and 3' wide at lower edge.
FRONT FACING

This diagram shows upper collar and facing in one.

Facing must be lengthened to correspond with the front
length, as shown In diagram X.
XI UNL NED JACKET
I

Complete the draft by tracing back foundation to the front

with side seams even; then divide back and front Into 4
sections as fol lows:
For back, square a line across at bust line from center
back; then draw a straight line from bustllne to hip, 4
from center back, and from bustllne to shoulder, Z-1/4
from neck. Reduce shoulder 1/4' to nothing, 4" below
shoulder.
For front, draw a straight line from breast point to hip,
4' from center front.
For semi-fitted jacket, reduce at waistl.ine 1/2' each side
then
of straight line to nothing at bust and hiplines;
lengthen as Indicated.

Inside view of unllned Jacket.

 —
JACKET WITH PEPLUM ITOH - BOIiBBO

JACKET WITH PEPLUM

illustration shows jack-
et with yoke and invert-
ed pleat in back.
I
Mark position for seam in
front above breast point
as shown by dotted lines.
Trace back; then draw new
center back lines. Hake
neck dart in back.
Reduce at walstl ine. "

II
Swing upper part of front
to within 1/2' of straight
dotted line; then trace.
Divide front into two
parts below breast point;
then reduce at waist! ine.
Draft yoke in back and
reduce at waist! ine.
Ill
Add to center front,
i
'

if
and lengthen !/2' at cen-
ter front.
Make a straight col lar
2* wide and the length
of the neckline.
IV
1 A B C D
For peplum, separate at
r wai sti ne; then join sec-
i

tions E and F for front

1
peplum, and sections G
afid H for back peplum.

t F e H Reduce back of jacket at

waistline by joining sec-
tions C and D in one. /
for inverted pleat, add
about 2* at center back.
ETON JACKET
An Eton style is a short
1
— ' jacket about waist length,
/ with sleeves. It may be
/ '
B>2y
I'M /
i

single or double breasted

/ ' I or as lustrated.
i It I

1 V can also be made with a

' V 1 / 1 \ J col lar.
'
/
^ f T"^
/ II

I
FRONT BACK
Mark position for shoul-
der darts in front and
back.

Swing upper dart of front

to within 1/2' of center
front dotted line; then
draft revers.

Trace revers to complete

front.
Shorten front and back
at waist ne. i i

BOLERO
A Bolero style .is, as a
rule, a sleeveless gar-
ment, usually the length
of an Eton jacket. It is
col lar ess, and the front
I

is rounded.
IV
The draft shows front of
Eton with dotted line in-
dicating the outline for
a Bolero front. The back
for Bolero and Eton Is
alike.
DRAFT OP PRINCESS COAT 73

DRAFT OF COAT
I
Using the coat foundation as a guide, di-
vide FRONT into t»o parts as follows:

A to B - Equals front shoulder.

A to C - Equals half of shoulder.
C to 0 - Draw straight line from point C
to top of dart.
Divide BACK into two parts as
fol lows:
E to F - Equals A to C on front shoul-
der,
F to G - Draw straight line from point F
to top of dart.
F to H - Equals half of line F-G.
1 to J - Equals 6 to C on front shoulder.
J to H - Connect.

For a rhigher neckllne.draft as follows;

FRONT
A to K Draw a strai ght line from A to K.
-

A to L - r. Square from tine A-K at A.

K to M - r. Square from line A-K at K:
then draw a curved tine from L
to H, parallel to the neckline,
as shown in diagram II.

BACK
N to 0 - I'. Continue center back line
up, N to 0.
E to P - I'. Be sure that the distance
from P to 0 equals E to N.iess
1/2'; then draw a curved line
from E to P, parallel to neck-
I ine.

Slash FRONT from shoulder C to point D,

then close up front dart as Illustrated.
Continue lines down below hipllne to re-
quired length, as shown by, dotted lines.
For grain lines, mark arrows on SIDE sec-
tions by squaring from the hipllne.

Ill
Fo'roverlap on FRONT, add to center front,
as shown by dotted'line: then mark posi-
tion for buttons and bultoftholes.
Make facing sections for front and neck,
"as shown by dotted lines.

The cutting diagram below shows how to

lay the pattern pieces of size 14 or 16
on 54* nap material.
 .

DRAFT OF COAT

I
Trace front and back of coat
foundatfon; then shift side seam
toward back, 1-1/2".

Mark shoulder dart linejthen. con-

tinue center front tfneup as
shown by dotted tine. For shoul-
der dart, swing upper part of
front to within 1/2^ of dotted
line as shown rn diagram II.

Increase back shoulder aart from

to 3/4" as shown in diagram

II
Separate front and back at naw
side seam line and trace each
about 5* apart; then draft coat
42*, length adding at lower center
>ack for vent, and adding at cen-
|:^ ter front for, f font closing, as
shown by dotted liaes. Draw rol-
ling ( ine for revers.

Ill
Reverse neck and center front
fine, and draft revers and notch
collar as described for 'Jacket
with notch collar*, but make col-
lar 3-1/2' wide at center back,
and bring shoulder point, 1/2'
away from neck instead of 1/4*.

Trace revers to complete front.

IV
Make facing for front I" wide at
^.shoulder and 4" wfde from revers
to bottom. Make upper collar at
least 1/8* wider than under col-
lar.

Mark post tlon for pocket, and

flap. Add seam allowance In pat-
tern sections, and a h&a at tK>t-
tom: then make corresponding
notches.

The insert in the draft contains

cutting diagram, showing size f4
' or 16 pattern laid on 64''flap
material

DRAFT OF SLEEVE (2-PIEC£) .

VI
Trace coat sleeve foundation;
then slash from bottom to eibow
dart, and spread I' at bottom as
shown in diagram VIX.

VII
Divide sleeve In 2 parts; then
draw slash line across cap 1-1/2"
from top.
SLEEVE.

Stash from center to sides and

0| spread f for broader shoulder
effect.
11
Ol ,

Allow seams and make correspond-

L i
lag notches.
 DRAFT OP CH^TERFIEIiD COAT

DRAFT OF COAT
I
Using the coat foundation as a
guirfe, trace front and back;
then shift side seam toward back,
2"at top, and 2-1/2'at bottom,
Mark shoulder dart One: then,
continue center front tine up
as siiown by dotted Ifne,
for shoulder dart, swing ugper
part of front to within I/2*of
dotted iineasshowi in di agramll.
Increaseback shoulder dart from
1/4" to 3/4' as ^oMi in dl agrafa il,

Make an oval shaped waist dart

in front as indicated.

Continue center back lino down,

for 42" length; then reduce l/2'at
'iifaistl ine, z& show by dotted lines.

For side dart ]n front, first

draw slash line from armnole at
side, to hipline'3' frofn side;
then slash and spread I" and nark
the V-shaped dart «s shown in
diagram II.
Sketches show Chest-
erfield Style Coat,
II
single breasted,
wi th notch col lar, Seuarate front and back at new
2 - piece shaped side seam Ifne and spread secr
tion about 4' apart.'then draft
sleeves, patch
coat to bottoffl, reducing 3/4* at
rockets, and vent each side seam of waistline,
n back, ^adding a 2'vant at tower center
back.and adding at center front
^ for front closing, as shown by
dotted lines. Draw rolling Itne
for revers.

For revers and notdi collar, usp

Same method of drafting as de-
scribed for the box coat.

IV
Make facing and upper collar as
shown by dotted ines.I

Draw slash line for. neck dart

from breast ooint to neck, 1/2"
from rolling Ifne; then slash
and spreeid for neck dart by clos-
ing up diDulder dart as shown in
diagraa V. Draw V-shaoed dart6'
long.

Mark positrons for patch pocket

and pocket welt.
Add seam allowance tn pattern
sections and a hem at bottom;
tlien make corresprvidi ng notches.

, The Insert In draft contains

"Fyttrng dlag ran, showing this
pattern in size 14 or 16 laid
on 64* nap material.

DRAFT OF 2 -PIECE SHAPED SLEEVE

VI
Draft coat sleeve as shownjn
draft of coat foundation, Oi'a-
?ram III: then shape sleeve be-
o« elbow line, 1-1/2* toward
front as shown oy dotted lines,
VII
Dotted lines show position for
under sleeve seams. The exten-
sion at lower back edge is for
the placket.
VIII and IX
Complete the upper sleeve sec-
tion by tracing the front and
back parts as indicated.
X
Allow seams and Make corres-
ponding notches.
COAT C OIiLAR DRAF-flNQ - 2 STYLES
COAT WITH DEEP mjCH COLUR
lustrations show coat
1 1

with a wider collar than

the regular notch collar*
The coHar has a t-l/2'
stand at center back; I*
stand at shoulder,
I
BACK OF COlUR
A to B - 3",
B to C - 3-1/2'.
D to E - l-t/2'.
C to £ - Connect.
B to Equals C to E
F -
plus 1/4".
E to F - Draw a curved
ine. 1

II
FRONT ROLLING. LINE
Form* shoulder dart; then
draft double-breasted front,
and draw rolling line, as
shown by dotted lines.
Ill
Fold' on rolling line and
trace neck and center
front.

Apply back of col lar to

front, as shown by dotted
Ines.
I

V
Draft front part of col-
lar and revers, using the
same method as for the.
notch collar (page 88).
VI
Trace refers to complete
the front.

COAT WITH REGUUR NOTCH

COLLAR AND HIGH REVERS
1 lustration shows coat
1

with notch collar, having

1-1/2" stand at center
back, and * stand at shoul-
I

der.
This collar is si mi lar to
the jacket notch collar^
the difference being In
the ease a lowance when I

drafting the back of the

cottar (see explanation on
page 68, detail IV).
Since coat materials are
usually very heavy, there
is an ease allowance of
1/2', compared to ttiel/4'
or 3/8" ease a towance for I

the jacl^et notch collar.

I and II
Using the coat foundation,
first make shoulder dart
in front, as Illustrated.

in and IV
Make front wider, draw rol ing
I ine, and
I trace neck
and center front.

Draft notch collar and revers, using the same method

piven for the regular notch collar draft, but accord-
ing to the measurements given in this diagram.
Note the 3/4* allowance for ease at shoulder.
Back of collar is 3-lfi' wide, or I-I/2' for the stand
and 2' for the outer part.
VI
Trace revers as Illustrated, to complete the front.
 .

TH SHAWIi COL L A R - 2 STYLES 77

SHAWL COLLAR WITH DARTS

IN BACK
1 lustration shows col-
1

lar with a 3' stand in

back. The darts in
back cause the collar
to stand away from the
neck. This is neces-
sary because of the
high stand.
I and i:

Using \he cmt founda-

tion .draft the shou - 1

der dart in front, as

i lustrated.
I

Ill and IV
Make front wider be-
low waisti ine and draw
rol ing ine;
I then I

trace neck and center

front.
V
BACK OF COLLAR
A to 8 --6'.
8 to C - 3-1 f2\
C to 0 - Connect.
B to E - Equals C to
0 plus 1/4*.
D to E - Draw a curv-
ed Ine. I

VI

Apply back of cot tar

to front as shown by
dotted ines. I

vn
Draft ront part of f
col lar andrevers, us-
ing the same method as
shown for the jacket
shawl collar (paoe61).

VIII
Trace revers to complete the front.
IX
Mark the position for the darts, as shown by
dotted lines.
X
spread collar sections; then draw V-shaped Unas
for darts.

SHAWL COLLAR WITH

SEPARATE COLLAR STAND
1 1 lustration shews coat
wi th neck dart n i

front, and col lar with

a separate stand.
This col lar is cut in
two parts to at low the
outer part to be cut
in fur and the stand -

in materi al
This is to prevent
skin rri tati on sotne-
i

times caused by fur

rubbing against the
neck.
XI and XII
These diagrams show
how to draft the neck
dart.
xiil and XIV
For separate col lar
stand, cut through
ro ing Ine;
1 1 then I

close the darts and

trace stand in one
piece.
 :

DRAFO? OF RAGLAN COAT SLEEVE

RAGLAN SLEEVE WITH
SHOULDER DART

Using the coat foundation

of the front, back and
sleeve, Shi ft the shoulder
seam forward 1/4'. Also
shift the shoulder notch
on the sleeve toward the
front, 1/4*.

II
Draft the rafltan armhole
lines on the front and
back, as shown by dotted
I ines.
Mark dots on front and
back part of the sleeve
cap to correspond with the
dots on the armhole.

Ill

Cut away the shoulder sec-

tions of the front and
back, and apply them to
the cap of the sleeve,
having the sections touch
the side of the sUeve
cap at a corresponding po-
'silion. The space between
the sleeve cap and the
shoulder sections equals
the shoulder extensionon
the coat . fo r examp e I

For a 'broader shoulder,

I

make space between sleeve

^cap and shoulder sections
r deep, etc.

IV
Al low seams and nark cor-
responding notches.

TWO-PIECE RAGLAN SLEEVE

2-PIECE
V and VI RAGUN SLEEVE-
The method of making this
sleeve is to divide the
dart sleeve in two parts,
as shown by dotted lines.
The allowance under the
__,arm may be given to anv
' sleeve which is made for
the deeper armhole.
The amount to be added at
the top of the underarm
seam depends on the depth
of the armhole of darment.
For example:
For "
I deeper armhole,
allow 1" to the underarm
length of the sleeve, as
illustrated. For I-I/2'
deeper armhole, addl-I/2',
etc.
Allow seams- and mark cor-
responding notches.
 .

PTS OF HOOD AND CAPE

HOW TO DRAFT THE HOOO PATTERN
Sketch shows how to taKe "Head Height" measurement.
Other views show Hood faced with contrast lining.
Hood has a 2" turn back at top of front, and a pleat
at ea^ side of neckedge.
Use the back foundation, size 16, to draft the hood.

I
A to 6 - Equals 2'. Extend center back line up, 2*.
B to C - Equals 3' (Sack of Neck).
C to D - Draw line from point C to 0 at armhole.
C to E - Equals 4" (Front of Neck). Square a fine
up from fine C-D; then connect £ to D.
8 to F - Equals U' (Head Height, plus 4"). .

to G - 8* (Across Back l<leasurefflent, plus I').

'
G to D - (^nnect.
II
F to H - Equals 2* (allowance for back of head).
G to - Equals 2" (extention for turn back).
I

D to J - Equals l*". Then connect from E to J to I

E to B - Draw curved neckline for Hood,

H to B - Connect.
Ill
for pleat at shoulder, draw slash line from C to I.
Then mark point K in center of line C-l , and point
L in center nf line E-l, Slash frnm C to I. and
from K to t; then spread 2' at C for the pleat, as
shown in diagram I v.
If prefarred, a dart or gathers may be used instead
of tha pleat.
IV.
Add seans and mark pleat lines Z' long.

HO* TO DRAFT THE CAPE PATTERN

Illustration shows cape with shoulder dart fitting and with mfnlmum
sweep at lower edge {60" sweep, and 42" length for size 16).

Use the dress foundation as a guloe to draft the caps.

Trace front and back about 12' apart; then make shoulder dart.
..^A to 6 .* Square a line across from center bacK to arnhole,
B to C - Eduals 1/4 of line A-B, (allowance for ease over the arm).
n> to E - Equals line B to C.

F to G - 43*. (Length of Cape). Extend center bacK line down to £.

6 to H - Eduals 16* (1/4 of 60* sweep). Sguare this line across at 6,
H to C - Connect; then draw a curved line from shoulder to point C,
jl to I - Equals 1/2 of line H-G, Square line to point Ifrom line C-H.
^' J to K - Equals H to G; then locate point L and complete draft of front.

Add seams and make corresponding notdnss. IMe shoulder dart 2' shorter.
^-^'^^ F

/ n ~

fy A

HIP LINE \ 1 1 j

/
/
/

/
/

^1 t:T.i...i.t.J

J L K H 1 €
 DRAFT OF CIRCULAR CAPE

I FRONr BACK ustrations below show plain 2-plece cir-

1
1

cular cape about 3/4 iMotfi, 40'-fro« b»ck of

necK to bottom.
Draft cape, using the fitted front and back
of waist as a guide, as follows:

A to B - Square line across, from center back

to armhole.
C to D - Draw line from armfiole to center
front, parallel to waistline.

Place front and back so that shoulders meet

at armhole, havino the space between B and C
half of A to B (this space represents the
minlinum amount for any style cape).

Draw sllohtly curved line between B and C,

III
E to F - Represents required cape lenoth at
center back (40' for this draft).
0 to G - Equals A to F.
H - Center between 8 and C.
1 to J - Draw line tlirouoh H, makino H to J
equal A to F.
F to (S - Draw circular line throuoh J, . 'This
line is parallel to line A to 8 to H
to C to D).

for a cape less circular at lower edge, re-

duce at J to nothing at H on front and back
as shown on th^ inside dotted lines.,
For additional fulness In cape, add at J to
nothing at shoulder point I, as shown by the
outside dotted lines.

CEKtTER BACK
CAPE WITH SHOUIiDER SHIRRING 81

This style gives the cane a slight pgff at

the shoulders due to the allowance in the pat-
tern for gathers.

I and II
Using the fitted waist foundation as a guide,
begin to draft the cape In sane nianner as
described for the 2-piece plain cape in dia-
grams I and II > page 60.

Ill
Draw seam lines in front and baclt from shoul-
der to waistline, curving line slightly about
3/4* away from armhole, as shown by dotted
lines. The space at waistline Is 1/4' wider
than at bustline In front and back.

lY
Cut out front and back; then cut through along
seam nes.
I i

Locate point E.in center between B and C, and

draw line from shoulder to point E; then slash
and spread about 3' at top for gattiers, as
shown In diagram V.

Draw curved line about 2' above side section.

This provides additional fulness for the puff.

Make cape required length (about 32'} as shown

by dotted ines. I
82 CAPE WITH YOKE AKD SHOULDER DARTS
Illustrations betow show cape with 5 shoulder darts. The
cape is about 32* long.
The pattern is so cut that it provides the extra fulness
for the square shoulderad effect.

Using the fitted waist foundation, trace front and back,

with shoulder to shoulder, and neckline even; then shift
shoulder line forward 1/2' for new shoulder hne as shown
by dotted line,
Draft yoke 3' wide at center front, 3-1/2' at center back,
and 4-1/2' at shoulder seam.

n
Draft the dart lines as follows:
First draw a curved line between armholes 3* below the
yoke line: then draw the dart lines I' apart at the yoke,
and 1-1/4* apart at the lower curved line.

Draw a squared line at the upper left corner. Then cut

out front and back in one piece (inctudlne the extended
section for the darts).
Before placing front and back against the squared line,
slash alono shoulder line and tnto the yoke; then con-
tinue to slash down each dart \if\6.
Place front and back carefully against the squared lines,
making equal size spaces for darts; then trace as Il-
lustrated.
Draw a circular line from center back to center front
along bust line, and 4' below dart section at side, as
shown by dotted tine. This circular tine serves as a
guide tine for drawing the lower edge cape line.

Diagram shows draft of cape 32' long with lower circular

line parallel to the circular guide line.
For additional puff, add to top. of darts as shown, by
dotted line.
Instead of darts, cape may be made with pleats or shirring
at shoulder.
For a cape with less fulness at bottom, reduce about 4*
each side of side seam. , .
 ( PATTERN G RAD NG I
)
GRADING MISI ! S SIZES (16 to 18)

GRADING is the art of increasing or decreasing

a sample size pattern proportlonateJy, according to the
standard body measurements.

The method of grading a pattern from one size to an-

other is bj' shifting the pattern piece from point to
point, tracing each step as you go along.

The instructions for grading the pattern as shown an

this page is merely fundamental, and should serve as a
basis for grading style patterns.
NOTE: Many manufacturers grade the width of front and
back only 3/8" Instead of t/S", from center front or
back to side seam, in this case, they grade only 1/16'
for the shoulder, and 3/16^ from armhole to side seam.

HOW TO GRADE THE BACK

WAIST LENGTH GRADE II BACK NECK GRADE Ill SHOULDER SEAM GRADE IV PART OF ARMHOLE GRADE

First draw center back Next shift pattern out Shift pattern out 1/8" Shift pattern down 1/8',
IIne; the^ shift pattern l/a*. keeping center back and trace from C to D: tracing armhole from D
up 1/4' from A to B and of pattern, paraflel to then mrk corner at point D to E and mari^ing point E,
trace the corner at point B. line A-B; then trace about 2' above bust line.
corner at point C.

V PART OF ARMHOLE GRADE VI SIDE LENGTH GRADE VII BACK MISTLINE GRADE

G ^

Shi ft pattern out 1/4*, Shift pattern down 1/8" Shift pattern in i/8" showing where and how
and trace armhole from ^. and trace from F to G: and t^ace from G to A, to much pattern was graded.
E to F;then trace corner then trace corner at complete the grade.
at point F. point G. Diagram also shows how
to grade wai stt ne of
i

pattern that has a waist

dart.

HOW TO .GRADE THE FRONT HOW TO GRADE THE SLEEVE

To grade the front, use Showi ng where and how To grade tne sleeve, use Showi ng where and how
same method 'of shifting much pattern was graded. same method of shifting much the sleeve pattern
pattern as for grad- pattern as shown for was graded from size 16
ing the back, except the Diagram also shows how and
to grade waisti ine of
Grading the Sack to 18.
neck, which is graded In ront, beginning from A
two shi fts. pattern that has a waist to B, then 8 to C, etc. The et bow dart remains
dart. the same for all sizes.
 .. )

84 GRADING WOMEN'S S I Z E S (36 to 38

The prade from 36 to 38 Is very much the same

as the grade from 16 to IS.the difference be-
ino an extra grade In the front over the bust,
from shoulder seam to walsti ine.This grade Is
required for the ladies' sizes only.

Whether the front has a side dart, shoulder

dart or waisjt dart fitting, the extra grade of
1/8' should be given as shown In these d(a-
g rams

The ladies' sizes represent the mature figures,

and therefore the front pattern requires the
extra grade (I/8M in the dart for each size.
The underarm length of the waist and sleeve
remains the same for alt ladies' sizest

The flrade In the armhole and in .the sleeve cap

Is somewhat greater than In the mJsses' sizes*

The prade from 38 to 40 and from 4) to42ietc..

Is the same as from 36 to 38.
WITH SIDE DART

GRADE OF PATTERN WITH SIDE DART IN FRONT

Chart shows where and how much pattern Is In-
creased from 36 to 38.
The extra grade of 1/8' over the bust In-
creases the size of the side dart. This also
provides the necessary grade of 3/8' from
shoulder to waisti Ine, there being 1716* at
the shoulder (when the neck Is raised I/I6*},
3/16* at the arnhole^and 1/8' at the bustllne.

The sleeve grade at the wrist is half of the

bicep grade. For instance: The grade at bleep
is 1/2*: at the wrist 1/4'. This princlpleal-
8o applies to the grade of sleeve In the miss-
•M K es' sizes.

SHOULDER OART 2-PIECE BACK

... .

GRADE OF SHOULDER DART, WAIST OART, etc.

Chart shows method of grading front pattern
with shoulder dart or waist dart fitting, mak-
ino the increase of 3/8* from shoulder to
waisti ine,and increasing the size of the dart
/8' for each size.
I

Chart also shows where and how much the two-

piece back Is Increased from 36 to 38.

4-PIECe PATTERN WITH 2-PlECE SLEEVE

6RADE OF 4-PIECE PATTERN WITH 2-PIECE SLEEVE

the same method In grading the 2-pi6ce
as in grading the shoulder dart front.

The grade of the 2-ptece back Is similar to

the grade of the back sections tn the above
chart

The entire 1/8* shoulder grade Is applied to

the side section of front and back.

The increase of the 2--piece sleeve is the same

as one-piece sleeve shown in the chart.
 '

GRADING SIZE 16 to 36 and 16 to 16h 85

GRADING SIZE 16 (misses') to 36 (ladies' size)

The grade from 16 to 36 is very mch the same
as the grade from 36 to 38, the difference be-
ing an extra 1/4" grade in the waist length.
This makes the back about 1/2' longer waisted
and the front 5/8' longer from shoulder to
waist] ine.

Whether the front has a side dart, shoulder

dart or waist dart fitting, the extra grade of
l/8Vshouid be given across the bust, as shown
In the charts of ladies' grade 36 to 38.

The ladles' size 36 is the mature figure and

therefore requires this extra grade over the
bust.

GRADE FROM !6 to 36
Chart shows where and how much pattern Is
Increased frora 18 to 36. The extra grade of
1^' Increases the size of the side dart. This
also provides the necessary grade of 5/8' from
shoulder to waistline in the front, there be-
ing 1/16' at shoulder {when the neck is rais-
ed I/I6'), 3/16* at the artnhole, 1/8' at the
bustline, and 1/4' between the dart and the
walsti ine.

The sleeve grade is very much the same as from

16 to 18, the difference being 3/16' grade in
the cap height instead of I/S*.

GRADE FROM 16 to 16^

GRADING 16 (regular) to 16& (half size)
The difference between the regular arid the
half size figures is m.iiiily in the heiglit.the
regu lar size figure measu ring 5 feet 7 or 0 '

in height, and the half size about 5 feet 3*.

Garments designed for the shorter women (trade

term is half sizes) are made about 3' shorter
than the garments for the standard reou lar
sizes: that is I' shorter above the waistline
and 2* shorter below the hip.

The hip of the half size figure is about I'

to 2' larger, and the waistline about 1' larg-
er, than the regular size figure. The arm is
about I
*
shorter.

GRADE FROM REGULAR TO HALF SIZE

Chart shows where and how much pattern is grad-
ed from regular to half size.
GRADE FROM REGULAR TO HALF SIZE
This method may be applied to grading patterns
from 16 to I6i, 36 to 362, or 13 tp I3i. For
instance: If a style is designed in the regular
mi sses' ladies' or junior sizes, and the same
,

style may be suitable for Sorter women, a half

size pattern Is then made by grading from the
regular to the half size, making the pattern
shorter proportionately, and larger in the hip
and waistline, as shown in this ciiart. Once
the half size is established, the pattern rsay
be graded to the other required sizes as fol-
lows:

For the misses half si zes, I4i, I6i

' I8i, etc.
.

For the ladies' hal f sizes, 36i , 3^ 40i ,42Letc.

,

For the juniors' half sizes, i3i^, I5i,t7i,etc.

The method of grading the pattern from 161 to

I8i, or 36i to 38i, or I3i to I5i,is the same
as the grade frorr 16 to 18, 36 to 38 or 13 to
15, respectively.
86 GRADING JUNIOR'S AN D GIRL'S SIZES

GRADING OF JUNIOR SIZES

The junior sizes range from II to 17, or II-
13-15-17.
The flrad^ from 13 to 15 Is very much the same
as the grade from 16 to 18.

These junior sizes should not be confused with

the in-between sizes of the misses' regular
sizes. For Instance: If a style is niade in
sizes 14-16-18-20, and there Is a special re-
quest for the same style to be rKide In the in-
between sizes, as \^lh]9 of the misses' regu-
lar sizes, the size 15 would be graded half a
size sfflaller than the 16. or the I9 elze vrould
be exactly a size In between the 14 and 16.

SHOWING GRADING POSITION ON PATTERN

This chart shows where and how much pattern Is
graded from 13 to 15. The sleeve is graded
1/4" in length at the elbow, if It is a straight
sleeve. For a shaped sleeve, the grade is di-
vided into two parts, 1/8" above and |/8' below
the elbow, as shown In ihe misses' grading.

NOTE; Many manufacturers grade the front and

back only 3/B' instead of \/2', from center
front or back to the side seam. In other
words, they grade only 1/8' Instead of t/4',
from arnihole to the side seam. However, for
close fittino garments, as a fitted bodice,
si 10 or tailored garment, the i/2' grade is
preferred.

GRADING GIRLS' SIZES

The girls' sizes range from 8 to 14, or 6-8-10-
12-14.

Styles for these sizes are suitable -for girts

of public school age.

Size 8 or 10 is the sample size.

The average increase in the height of girls in

the above sizes Is about 2" per year, in
other wordSfthe 10 year size girl Is 4' tall-
er than the 8 year size, etc.

SHOWING GRADING POSITION ON PATTERN

This chart shows where and how much pattern
is graded from size 8 to (0. Use the same
amount when grading from 10 to 12, 12 to 14,
or 8 to 6.

When grading from 8 to 6, reduce instead of

increase, as you shift the pattern.

The grade of the skirt length Is about 3* per

SlZSi
 KIMONO RAGLAN DOLMAN SLEEVE GRADING

KIMONO SLEEVE

GRADING THE KIMONO SLEEVE

Chart shows how pattern Is graded frotn
size 16 to 18.

When grading the front and back 1/4'

longer in the waist, the Increase must
be made near the top, as illustrated.
This gives the sleeve 1/2' grade across
the top.

For the ladies' sizes with shoulder or

side darts, use the sane method of
grading the darts as shown on the grade
from 36 to 38.

When grading a pattern for a loose fit-

ting garment, grade front and back 3/8*
each in the width, making only 1^"
grade at the underarm instead of l/4'.

For junior sizes, use the same method

as described below for the Dolman sleeve.

GRADING THE RAGLAN SLEEVE

Chart shows the grade from 16 to 18
for the front, back and sleeve.

When grading the ragian sleeve and the

raglan armhole of the front and back,
it is important to grade the corre-
sponding amounts at the corresponding
post t ions,

Ttie amount used for grading must tally

with the grade of a pattern with a
regular armhole and set-in sleeve. For
instance; the total grade from neck to
wrist of 16 to 18 is 3/4", or 1/8' at
shoulder, 1/8" at the cap of the sleeve,
and t/8'' above and l/S' below the elbow.

The width of the sleeve at the neck re-

mains the sane for all sIzes.The usual
grade in the neck is given in the front
and back on'ly.

DOLMAN SLEEVe

GRADING THE DOLMAN SLEEVE

Chart shows where and how much pattern
is graded from size 16 to 18.

The grade of the waist length is similar

to the grade of the kimono sleeve pat-
tern. The entire 1/4" grade Is made
near the top of the front and back and
a corresponding grade at the top of the
sleeve.

For the junior sizes, from 13 to !5, or

15 to 17, etc., the grade is the same
as shown in the chart, the only diffe-
rence being an extra grade of 1/4" be-
tween the armhole and the waistline in
front and back sections. This would
account for the 1/2' grade in the watst
length, between the neck and the waist-
line.

For ladies' s{zes,8ee directions above

for the klfflono sleeve.
88 SKIRT GRADING - 3 STYLES (16 to 18)

STYLE I
(2-PIECE SKIRT)
STYLE I

The increase from 16 to 18 is

2* arcRind waist and hip, or I'
from center front to center
back.
Chart shows where and how much
pattern is increased from !6
to 18. The front takes the
1/2' grade in one shift, while
the badi grade is divided in-
to two shifts, as Illustrat-
ed.
STYLE 2
FRONT Chart shows skirt pattern in
four sections and it also
shows how much to grade each
section from one size to
another.
It is an established rule
that the front and back of a
4-plece skirt pattern is to
be graded only 1/8* each, and
3^' for each side section.
»/8" 'Is
JLmJLb
STYLE 3
STYLE 3 Chart shows wtiere and hew much
pattern is graded from 16 to
18, using the same principle
as the grade for Style 2.
When grading the yoke parts
of the. front and back, they
must be graded to correspond
with the top part of the ad-
joining side section.

STYLE 4
Chart shows 2-piece skirt
with side yoke, graded from
16 to 18.
Use the same method of divid-
ing the grade as shown In the
grade of Sty le 3.
It is advisable to keep the
lower edges of the yoke of
the graded sizes at the same
angle as the sample size. The

UJ Lju
same applies to the slant-
ing edges of the front and
back.

STYLE 5 STYLE 5
Chart shows prade of skirt
front which is in 3 parts,
and skirt back with 2 darts.
Chart also shows where and
how much pattern is increas-
ed, which totals I' from cen-
ter front to center back.
The 1/8' grade near the cen-
rti ter front and back, and the
balance at the side is in
keeping with the grade of the
4-piece skirt.

STYLE 6
Chart shows grade of trousers
or divided skirt from size
16 to 18.
The grade of the crotch depth
from waistline to the leg
seam is 3/8*. This grade Is
made in two shifts as indi-
cated with arrows in front
and back.
The waist and hip grade is
the same as for the skirt.
 JACKET AND COAT QRADIHG (16 to 18) 89

STYLE I STYLE I

Chart shows where and how much

jacket pattern is graded from size
16 to 187
2-PIECE sleeve

The enti re increase of the under-

arm grade is given at 'the side of
the front because the underarm
seam had been shifted toward the
bacit about 2'.

The grade of the 2-piece sleeve

is divided equally between the
upper and under sleeve, with the
usual cap grade In the upper sleeve.

The collar takes the neck grade

of the front and back.

SHLE 2

STYLE 2
Chart shows peplum jacket graded
from 16 to 18.

Peplum does not grade in iength,

but when gradinp In width, pat-
tern must be shifted in the di-
rection of the shape of the pieces
as indicated with arrows. The same
applies to the lower sleeve sec-
tion.

The upper sleeve takes the entire

sleeve length grade.

STYLE 3
^ "1 COLLAR
STYLE 3
Chart shows coat pattern graded
from 16 to 18.

When grading the circular part

of the front and back, pattern
must be shifted In the direction
as Indicated on the chart with
arrows.

The horizontal and vertical grade

nust correspond with the upper
side sections.

The cuff grade nust correspond

with the grade of the lower part
of the sleeve.

NOTE: Many manufacturers grade

the front and back only 3/8' in-
stead of 1/2', from center front
or back to the side seam. How-
ever, for closer fitting garments,
the 1/2' grade is preferred.

'/e" '/e
90 UNDERGARMENT DRAFTING
(Bra and Panties Foundation)

The^bra" wtiich is an abbreviated

brassiere, has the up) ft out! ine i

or the cup shape fi ttipg, suitable

for the misses and junior size
f gures.
i

This "bra'style has triple bust

darts.
The panties are cut on the bias
and have gusset sections at lower
part of front and back.

Use the hip lengtii dress foundation

(size 16) as a guide. Trace front
and back to waistline only; then
trace the hip sections about 2'
below waisti ine. Mark sections
A to J, as illustrated.
Reduce 1/2* at side to nothinfl at
hip.
Reduce 1/2' at center back waisti ioe
to nothing at neck, and to t/4*
at hip.
.Draw straight line from center
of shoulder to top of dart in
front and baclt.
For panties, continue lines down
and shape tower edge, as shown
by dotted ines. I

II
Draft the'bra" as indicated by
dotted lines; then irake shoulder
straps 12*. wide.1

Tor panties, reduce front 1' at

waistline to nothinQ at hip, by
closinc) up front dart, thus spread-
ing below hip. Reduce half of
dart at back waistline (leaving
a 3/4' dart) to nothing at hip,
spreading lower edge, as illus-
trated.
Draft gusset sections at center
frgnt and hack, as shown by
dotted lines.

III

Cut out front and back of the "bra"

sections; then bring A and B to-
gether and D and E toflether, as
i lustrated.
I

For shoulder strap, join front

and back sections in o*ne.
For elastic in back, cut off 2'
from center back of section E
for a 4" strip of elastic, as
CU-TTIHG DIAGRAM SELVEDGE shown n di agram I v.
i

IV
For a cup shaped fitting, slash
front between A and C, and spread
•
I at breast point.
For the bust darts, make the first
dart 3* long and 1/3 the width
of the spread at lower edge. Make
remaining darts as shown in diagram
V.

V
AMow seams and draw grain tines
on"bra sections.

VI
Make the entire panties pattern;
then mark s! ash ines 3-1/2'
I

long at center front and back for

the gusset sections.
At low seams and make correspond-
ing notches.
 .

UNDERGARMENT DRAFTING 91

SHOULDER STRAP

ELASTIC

8RA FOUNDATION

Ill
Illustration shows "bra'wlth front panel
and double bust pleats. Separate the panel section; then slash
I along pleat lines and close up dart,
spreading for the 2 pleats.
Use the *bra' foundation (page gOj diagram
IV) as a guide to draft this style. IV
Draw V-shaped lines, if darts are desired
instead of pleats.
Mark positions for oanef seam and pleats
as shown by dotted lines- Mark sections Allow for seams, mrk grain line, and
A, B, C and D. make corresponding notches.

SHOULDER STRAP

E LASTIC

BRA FOUNDATION

This styte'bra'has hori2X)ntal seam across and sids seam in 2 equal parts; then
front sections. draw horizontal seam tine, as shown by
Pattern is so cut that It gives the'bra" dotted line* Mark sections A, B and C.
the CUD shape fitting. Ill
I Close up dart between B and C.
Use the 'bra' foundation as described a- IV
bove for Style I

Allow seams and lower front sec-

in upper
II thenmark grain tines and make
tions;
Divide center front Into 3 equal parts^ corresponding notches.

The panties and gussets are In one. spread below hip, as iltustrated.
There are no side seams. II
Round off corners along center front
and back at gussets, as shown by
Use the panties foundation (shown on dotted lines.
page 90. diagram II) as a guide. For left side opening draw a 6' line
Trace front and back (including the at side.
gussets) with side seams together. Mark grain line, allow for seams and
Eliminate the waist -dart in back and make corresponding notches.

PANTIES WITH SEAM AT CENTER

UNDERGARMENT DRAFTING
(CoBblnatlon Style)

Illustration shows brassiere with

bust gathere.and panties with gusset.
Tillsoaritient is usually worn in
place of a slip under a dress of
heavier material and Is about 2'
onger thaa the regulation panties
length.

Use the hip length dress founda-

tion (size 16) as a guide.
Reduce i/2' at side to nothing at
hip.
Reduce i/2' at center bacl< waistline
to nothing at necli, and to 1/4"
at hip.
Draw straight line from center of
shoulder to top of dart In front
and bacl^.
for panties, continue lines down
and shap? lower edge, as shown by
dotted lines.

II
Draft the brassiere as indicated
by dotted lines; theniral(e shoul-
der straps \/2' wide. Mark sections
A to H,
(For CUD shape fitting, slash be-
tween A and C and spread at I
breast point, as shown on page 90
diagram IV.

Separate the brassiere sections In

front and bacli; then close up the
front dart between A and B, and
continue lower seam line to side,
as shown by dotted line.
Brino sections E and F together to
complete back.
For panties, bring sections C and
D together and G and H together,
above the hipline, spreading sec-
tions below hip as illustrated..
Draft gusset sections at center
front and back, as shown by dotted
I Ines.

IV
Make the entire brassiere and panties
pattern; then mark slash lines at
lower edge of center front and
back for gusset sections.
Allow seams, mark grain lines and
make corresponding notches.
 G

UNDERGARMEHT DRA P T I M 9-3

(2 Styles of Brassieres)

SHOULDER STRAP

FRONT BACK FRONT

STYLE I

Use the hip length dress foundation (size 16) as a guide:

then reduce 1/2' at side to nothing at hip, and l/2" at center
back waistline to nothing at neck and to 1/4' at hip.
Draw straight lines from center of shoulder to top of dart
in front and bacii; then draft brassiere, as shown by dotted
lines and raarit sections A to F.

II
Separate the 3 front sections, and 2 back sections as illustrated
closing up front dart between A and B;then nark the position
for the 2 pleats in section B.

STYIE Ill and IV

This style brassiere extends about 3* below the Slash along the 2 pleat lines: then cl.ose up waist dart,
waistline, and fastens to the foundation or spreading evenly for the 2 pleats.
corset, to hold the brassiere In position. Allow seams, mark grain lines and maiie corresponding notches,

Use the dress foundatl (size 16! to waisti ine only; then
reduce 1/2' at s
side seam.and l/2'at center back waistline to
nothing at neck.
Draw straight line from center of shoulder to top of dart in
front and back, and make shoulder strap 1/2' wide. Draft
brassiere as shown by dotted lines and mark sections A to fi.
II
Close up front dart between A and B, and bring section 0 and
E together, and F and G together, as iustrated.
i i

Ill and IV
For cup shape fitting, slash between A and C and spread I'
at breast point; then draw V-shaped lines for dart.
STYLE 2
Draw the horizontal seam line as shown by dotted line: then
This style brassiere is suitable for ladies and separate as shown in diagram IV.
misses sizes, and extends to i-i/2' above the
waisti ine. V
Mark grain lines, add seams and make corresponding notches.
 .

STRAIGHT SLIP DRAFT

Illustrations show slip with pointed

or straight upper edge outline.
Front has 2 side darts for fitting,
over the bust.
The lengthwise darts in front and back
give the garment a closer fitting vaist-
I ine.

Trace front and back dress foundation;

then reduce 1/2' at side to nothing at
hip.
Draw straight line from center of
shoulder to top of dart in front and
back
Draw side dart ines, Iustrate4.
I

11
Draw lower neck and armhole lines, as
shown by dotted lines, makina shoulder
strap 5' long in front and 5* long in
back.
Stash alongside dart lines; then
close up frontdart to straighten cen-
ter front Ine. I

in
Draw V-shaped lines, 3' long, for
each side dart.
Continue straight lines down to re-
quired length and shape bottom, as
shown by dotted lines.
For straight upper edge outline, square
line across from center front and back,
naking underarm seam a little higher
as i I lustrated.
Allow seams on all edges but center
front and back.

IV
Diagram below shows cutting layout.
for straight si ip.
The bias strips are for underfacing
the neck and armhole edges.

FOLD OF MATERIAL
PRINCESS SI.IP DRAFT 95

Illustration shows princess slip, with

neckline about 6* lower at center front
and'7' lower at center back; armhote
is 1-1/2* deeper than dress armhole.

Using the dress (hip length) founda-

tiorv as a guide, trace front and back;
then trace the darts.
Draw straight tine from center of
shoulder to top of dart in front and
tiack. Mark sections A,6,C,D and E.
Reduce width of front and ti&cV, 1/2'
at bust and waist to nothing at hip
as shown by dotted lines.

U
Wake neckline 6' lower in front and
7' lower in back. Draw armhole 1-1/2'
deeper. Make shouldfir strap 4' long
in fro.nt and 4' long in back.
Cut out front and back sections, and
separate them as shown in diagram III.
Make center front line straight by
bringing sections A and B together.
Combine front and back part of shoul-
der strap in one.

Trace the 4 sections, leaving enough

space for the lower part of the slip.
Continue straight lines down to re-
quired length; then shape bottom, as
shown by dotted ines. I

Draw arrows for grain lines by squaring

f rem h i
pi i ne.
For a Cup shape fitting over the bustj
add 1/4' to front sections at breast
point; then subtract I/4V 3' below
breast point, as shown by dotted lines.

Shape upper part of side fronts about

1/2' towards armhole, as illustrated.

Complete pattern by adding searas and

making corresponding notches.

IV
Diagram below shows how to lay pattern
on the goods.
The bias strips are for underfaclng
neck and armhole edges.
Lower edge of slip may be finished
with narrow hem.

FOLD OF GOODS
96 BIAS SLIP DRAFT

A bias slip has several advantages,

soma of which are:
it does not require a placket at the
left side, which eliminates a sewing
operation.
It molds better to the form around
bust, waist and hip, due to the oia-
terlal being on the bias.

Trace front and back dress founda-

tion (hip lenath); then reduce at
side and draw lines to shoulder in
front and back, as illustrated.

SHOULDER STRAP
II*
Draw lower neckline and armhole, as
shown by dotted lines; then divide
front and back in 4 sections and
mark them A, 8, C and D.
Separate each section and close up
front dart as shown in diagrani III.
Make shot/lder strap in one part.

Ill
Trace the 4 sections on another sheet
of paper, al lowing enough room for
an entire front and back, as shown
by dotted Iines.
Mark grain lines and make corres-
ponding notches.

jV SELVEDGE
The cutting diagram above shows how to lay bias slip pattern on the goods.
If piecings are required, they must be laid on the same. lengthwise grain.
The bias strips are for lower edge binding.
The upper front and back sections may be lined.
 DRAFT OP BATHROBE

Robe is double breasted, and has a notch

col I ar.
The method of drafting the notch collar is
exactly the sarfe as the jacket notch collar.
The belt is 1-1/2" wide firrlshed, double.
The sleeve Is a l-piece shaped sleeve with a
dart at back elbow. The method of drafting
the sleeve Is exactly the same as the coat
sleeve.

Using the dress front foundation as a guide, t /

draw slash iJne for shoulder dart. Marli sec- 1 I

tions A to C.

Slash along shoulder dart line; then close

up front dart.
Cut out waist dart, from hip to breast point;
.then spread front 3/4" at hip, pivotlno at
breast point.
Draw V-shaped dart from shoulder, to a point
3' above breast point.
Roll ing

For the robe, extend shoulder 1/2', lower the

armhoie 1/2', and widen front and back r
each at side seam as shown by dotted lines.
FRONT
IV ©- O
Eliminate the waist darts In front and back;
then continue straight lines down below hip
to bottom (ankle length).
For double breasted front, add 3-1/4" to cen- ©- O 1

ter front at waistline and 3-3/4' at bottom,

drawing line to a point 5" above viaistiine;'
then draw rollino line and draft lapel as VII
tndicated. Trace lapel to other side of rol-
ling I ine. UPPER <7V UNDER
Add hem at bottom of front and back.
COLLAR / COLLAR

Mark position for buttons and buttonholes, 5'

above, and I' below the waistline.
Draft facing 1-1/2' wide at shoulder, and 6'
wide from lapel to bottom.
Draft patch pocket 6-1/2' wide at top, 7'-
wide at bottom and 7" deep. 1
FRONT
AND VIIVI & a
After drafting notch collar according to
directions given for the'Jacket notch col-
Ur', make the upper collar 1/8' wider and
longer than the under collar. 0- @
Allow seams on all pattern pieces.
 DRAFT OF PAJAMA TOP
II

Jacket is loose fitting and features double

shoulder tucks in front.
' t may be \^orti tucked in, or over the trousers.
/ Ulf 1
A I/b// C (
Armhote is sliflhtly deeper, and sleeve is flat
at top of cap, the same as the mannish shirt
sleeve.
1'

FRONT FRONT /

WAIST IJNe/ Using the dress foundation as a guide, draw

slash lines for the tucks as indicated. Mark
sections A, 8 and C.

Slash along tuck lines and spread by closing up

HIP LINE
front dart, and forming straight center front
iIne. Make one tuck 4' long and the other, 3-3/4".

Ill
Hake shoulder i/2" longer, armnole 1/4' deeper,
and make side wider as Indicated.
Lengthen Jacket 1/2' beloM hipllne at center
back and side, to I" at center front.

For front closing overlap, add I" to center

ron t then lower the neck
"^s,f ; at center front,
t
'

curving the outline as indicated.

IV
XJark positions for buttons and buttonholes, 4*
apart. Draft pocket 4-1/2' X 4-1/2".
For facings In front and back, draft as shown
by dotted Ines. I

Add seams and hems; then make corregwnding notches.

DRAFT OF SLEEVE
I
Trace outline of jacket front, and mark point A
and 8 at side seam as Indicated.
Locate point C on side seam line by having A to
C equal 1/3 of line A - 8; then locate point 0 at
deepest part of armhoIe(about 2"from side seam):
then connect C to D.

Trace lower part of armhole and upper part of

side seam to opposite side of line C-0 as sho*n
by dotted llnes;then mark point E as Indicated.

II
Draft sleeve as follows:
to G - Equals overarm (enoth. Draw this line
by continuing shoulder line straight
to wri St.

6 to H - Equals 1/2 of wrist measure plus 2-I/2*.

H to E - Connect for underarm seam tine.
Ill
J'race other half of sleeve to opposite side of
line F-G as shown by dotted lines.

IV
Make front part of sleeve cap 3/8* lower as In-
^ jai cated.

T9«l"^y" a slight ease in the sleeve cap, add

1/8" at each side of sleeve as shown by dotted
lines.
. Add seams and hem; then m^e corresponding notdies.

CORRESPONDING ARt.i MEASUREMENTS

MISSES SIZES 12 14 16 1 18 20
OVERARM LBIG1H 2?- 1/4 122-6/8 23 23-3/8 23-3/4
WRIST MEASURE 6-1/41 6-l/S 6-3/4 7 7-1/4
 1

DRAFT OP PAJAMA TROUSERS 99

illustrations show ankle length or short trousers,

featuring tt/cks at waistline in front and back. Using the hip part of the dress foundation, trace front
and back sections, having the hipline, straight across
The crotch depth in pajama trousers, is usually l" deeper as ritustrated.
than in slacks or sports wear shorts, therefore .the dis-
tance from A to C in diagram i, equals crotch depth For ankle length trousers, draft according to the jun-
measurement, plus 2* for ease.. iors' .misses' and ladles' sizes as follows:

SIZE 1 1 13 15 17 12 14 16 18 20 40 42 44
A to B 38 38-1/2 39 39-1/2 39 39-1/2 40 40-1/4 40-1/2 40-1/2 40-1/2 40-1/2 Equals ankle length.
A to C 13-1/4 13-1/2 13-3/4 M 13-l/E 13-3/4 14 14-1/4 14-1/2 14-3/4 IS 15-1/4 Equal s crotch depth
(2" ease included).

0 to E Equals hipline on dress foundation.

"E to f Equal s 1/2 of C to E.
D to G Equals 1/2 of £ to F.
E to H Equals i/2 of E to F.
H to K Equals D to J, plus 2". Draw this line from H to K, touching
center bacl< waistline of dress foundation.
Draw slightly curved line from K to side seam.
II
to L 1/2' at wai St ne. t i

to M 1-1/2". Draw diagonal line. , 1

to G Draw center front line from L to G through M, curving the line

below hip.
H to N 1-1/2". Draw diagonal line.
K to F Draw center back line through N.
G to 0 Equals 1/2 of G to D.
0 to P Equals length from C to B.
F to C Equals 1/2 of F to H.
0 to R '
Equals length of C to 8.
P to R -
Connect.
0 to S • 8".
P to T 1/2'.
G to T Draw leg seam line from G to T through S, curving inel
I

C to U si ightly above S.J

,

fi to V 1/2"
F to V Draw leg seam line through U.
e to « I

* to Vi Connect for side seam line.

For close fitting waistline, make double tucks in front and back as indi-
cated, making each tuck in front I" wide, and each tuck in back 1-1/2'
wide. If necessary make further reduction a side seam as shown in dia-
gram III.
Ill
Hake hem at bottom of trousers pattern; then add seams and make corres-
ponding notchcG.
For wai stband, make a double band l-l/4"wide finished, and the length of
waist measure, plus 3/4''extensi on in back for left side opening, and ex-
tra allowance at front end for double buttonholes.

. i CROT CH LINE. 4 U
 NIGHTGOWN

HOW TO DRAFT THE FRONT PATTERN

Using the dress foundation as a guide

seam 1/2' at bust and waist, to nott\rng at hi
For gathers at shoulder slash as indicated; then close
up front dart as shown in diagram II.

Draft 3' wide waistband; then separate the 3 sections

as shown In diagram iii.
Draft armhole 1-1/2' deepe r al around.
I

Trace front to opposite side of center front,

uratt v-necl<;then make corresponding notches at waist-
band and front.
IV and V
For gathers in waist, draw slash lines from armhole
to
lower edge between notches; then slash and spread 3/4-
at each slash as shown in diagram v.
For sl<lrt. extend lines down to ankle length and curve
^''°»" ""J "lotted lines, raising walst-
r?'™,,
Iine, 3/4" at side.
For additional flare, draw slash lines as Indicated;
then slash and spread as shown In diagram v.
Add I' hem at neck fdge; then add seams.

^ |WAIST tINE.

HOW TO DRAFT THE BACK PATTERN

Trace dress back foundation; then reduce side

seam, l/2"at bust and waist, to nothing at hip.

Draft armhole 1-1/2' deeper all around; then

draft waistband 3'wide as Indicated. Separate
the »3 sections as shown In diagram iii.
Ill
Trace back to opposite side of center back
Draft V-neck as indicated; then make cor-
responding notches at waistband and back.
IV
For gathers, draw slash lines- In waist; then
slash and spread 3/4" at each slash as shown
in diagram v.
Raise waistline 3/4"at side and draft skirt
as described above for the front.
For tie-belt, make a double band r wide
finished, and 32' long.
»
Add i"hem at neck edge and seams on all sew-
ing edges.
 I
I^paTtTrn draftTng an~d g^aFTn^s^
REVISED 19<1 EDITIOH I

IHCLUDIMG

SUPPLEMENTARY SECTiOK SUPPLEMENTARY ;SECTIOH

PART 1 PART 2
Pages 1 to 28 Paged to XVI
1

FOR OTHER BASIC PATTERN DRAFTING & GRADING PROBLEMS. SEE WHITE PAGES 1 to 100

::1

copyright 3961 "CCIII] Piibll^ed H. Bohr, 19 teary St,, Eastdiester, N.7. '[^^Z^ .Printed iaO.S.^.
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 PRINCESS SLIP DRAFT 95

Illustration shows princess slip, with

necltline about 6' lower at center front
and 7' lower at center back; armhole
is 1-1/2" deeper than dress armhole.
/ /
/
/
/ /
/ 1

B c
^ !
Using the dress (hip length) founda-
I

1
tion' as a guide, trace front and bacl<;
then trace the darts.
Draw straight fine from center of
shoulder to top of dart in front and
b.ack. Mark sections A,B,C,D and E.
Hi pi i nei Reduce width of front and tiAck 1/2"
1
at bust and waist to nothing at hip
FRONT BACK as shown by dotted lines.

n
Make nec(<tine 6"
lower in front and
7* Draw armhole 1-1/2'
lower in back.
deeper. Make shoulder st^'ap 4* long
in front and 4' long in back.
Cut out front and back sections, and
separate them as. shown in diagram III.
Make center front ilne straight by
bringing sections A and 6 together.
Combine front and back part of shoul-
der strap in one.

Trace the 4 sections, leaving enough

space for the tower part of the slip.
SHOULDER STRAP Continue straight lines down to re-
quired length; then shape bottom, as
shown by dotted lines.
la-
3"f
\ Draw arrows for grain lines by SQuaring
A f rom h i p I i ne.

B
For a cup shape fitting over the bust,
j

/A 3- add 1/4' to front sections at breast

point; then subtract IMV 3' below
breast point, as shown by dotted lines.

Shape upper part of side fronts about

1/2' towards armhole, as illustrated.

Complete pattern by adding seams and

making corresponding notches.

IV
Diagram below shows how to lay pattern
on the goods.
The bias strips are for underfacing
neck and armhole edges.
Lower edge of slip may be finished
wi th narrow hetti.

—
FOLD OF GOODS
96 BIAS SLIP DRAFT

A bias slip has several advantagqs,

11
SHOULDER
~~ sone of which are:
STRAP It does not require a p racket at the
left side, which eliminates a sewing
operation.
It molds better to the form around
bust, waist and hip, due to the ffla-»
terial being on the bias.
V'/a" ft*

Trace front and back dress founda-

tion {hip lenath); then reduce at
side and draw Tines to shoulder in
front and back, as illustrated.

FRONT BACK

111 SHOULDER STRAP ir

Draw lower necliline and armhole, as
shown by dotted lines; then divide
front and back in 4 sections and
mark them A, B, C and D.
Separate each section and close up
front dart as shown in diagram III.
Make shoulder strap in one part.

Ill
Trace the 4 sections on another sheet
of paper, all owing enough room for
an entire front and back, as shown
by dotted 1nes.
1

Mark grain ines and make cor res-

I

ponding notches.

SELVEDGE
The cuttinfl diaoram above shows how to lay bias slip pattern on the goods.
If piecings are required, they must be laid on the same. engthwi se grain.
I

The bias strips are for lower edge binding.

The upper front and bacl^ sections may be lined.
 DRAFT OP BATHROBE 97

III

Robe Is double breasted, and has a notch

col lar.

The method of drafting the notch collar is

exactly the san>eas the jacl^et notch collar.
The belt is 1-1/2" wide firfished, double.
The sleeve is a l-piece shaped sleeve with a
dart at back elbow. The method of drafting
the sleeve is exactly the same as the coat
sleeve.

I
Using the dress front foundation as a guide,
draw slash Mne for shoulder dart. Mark sec-
tions A to C.
II
Slash along shoulder dart line; then close
up front dart.
COLLAR
Cut out waist dart, from hip to breast point;
^then spread front 3/4' at hip, pivoting at
breast point.
Draw V-shaped dart from shoulder, to a point
3' above breast point. Rol I ing /
k7 /
Ill I ine 1

For the robe, extend shoulder 1/2°, lower the

armhole 1/2*. and widen front and back 1" 1
each at side seam as shown by dotted lines. 1
1 FRONT
IV ©- ©
Eliminate the waist darts in front and back;
then continue straight lines down below hip
to bottom (ankle length).

For double breasted front, add 3-1/4" to cen-

0- 0
ter front at waistline and 3-3/4" at. bottom, ^'
drawing line to a point 5" above waistline; VII
then draw rolling line and draft lapel as
indicated. Trace lapel to other side of rol- UNDER
ling ine. UPPER
I

COLl^R COLL/^
Add hem at bottom of front and back.

Mark position for buttons and buttonhol 68,5*

above, and I" below the waistline.
Draft facing 1-1/2" wide at shool der, and
wide from lapel to bottom. 1

r
Draft patch pocket 6- 1/2" wide at top, 7-'" 1
wide at bottom and 7' deep. '

1
FRONT
VI AND VII
©• ®
After draft! m) notch collar according to
directions given for the'Jacket notch col-
lar', make the upper collar 1/6" wider and
longer than the under collar.
©- @ 1

Allow seams on all pattern pieces.

 PAJAMA TOP

Jacket is loose fitting, and features double

shoulder tucks in front.
It may be wort: tucked in, or over the trousers.
DEEPER >l

1,
ARMHOLE jf Armhol e is sliohtly deeper, and sleeve is flat
at top of cap, the same as the mannish shirt
si eeve.

BACK
Using the dress foundation as a guide, draw
slash lines for the tucks as Indicated. Mark
sections A, B and C.

II
Slash along tuck lines and spread by closing up
front dart, and forniino straight center front
IIne. Make one tuck 4' long and the other, 3-3/4".
FACING BACK Ill
LINE-.
FACING Make shoulder 1/2" longer, armtiole 1/4" deeper,
and make side wider as indicated.
Lengthen jacket 1/2" below hip line at center
back and side, to I" at center front.

For front closing overlap, add I" to center

xfront;then lower the neck "
at center front, I

curving the outline as indicated.

IV
Mark positions for buttons and buttonholes, 4'
apart. Draft pocket 4-1/2" X 4-1/2".
For facings In front and back, draft as shown
by dotted I i nes.
Add seams and hems; then make corresponding notches.

DRAFT OF SLEEVE
I
Trace outline of jacket front, and mark point A
and B at side seam as indicated.
Locate point C or side seam line by having A to
C equal 1/3 of line A - B; then locate point D at
deepest part of armhole(about 2''from side seam):
then connect C to D.

Trace lower part of armhole and upper part of

side seam to opposite side of line C-D as shown
by dotted lines;then mark point E as Indicated.
y" n
Draft sleeve as follows:
>J to G - Equals overarm lenoth. Draw this line
by continuing shoulder line straight
to wrist.
G to H - Equals 1/2 of wrist measure plus 2-1/2".
H to E - Connect for underarm seam line.
Ill
J'race other half of sleeve to opposite side of
line F-G as shown by dotted lines.

I»
I Make front part of sleeve cap 3/8" lower as In-
--^dicated.
a shght ease in the sleeve cap, add
1/8" at each side of sleeve as shown by dotted
I ines.

. Add seams and hem; then make corresponding notches.

CORRESPONDING ARM MEASUREMENTS

MISSES SIZES 12 14 16 18 20
OVERARM LENG1N 2?- 1/4 22-5/8 23 23-3/8 23-3/4
WRIST MEASURE 6-1/4 e-i/2 6-3/4 7 7-1/4
 DRAFT OF PAJAMA TROUSERS 99

U lustrations show ankle length or short trousers,

featuring tiicks at waistline in front and back. Using the hip part of the dress foundatioti, trace front
and back sections, having the hipline, straight across
The crotch depth in pajama trousers, Is usually I' deeper as f lustrated.
1

than in slacks or sports wear shorts, therefore .the dis-

tance froir A to C in diagram i, equals crotch depth For ankle length trousers, draft according to the jun-
tneasuren^ent, plus for ease.. iors' , mi sses* and ladies' sizes as follows:

SIZE 1 13 15 17 12 14 16 IB 20 40 42 44
A to B '
38 3a-i/2 39 39-1/2 39 39- 1/2 40 40- 1/4 40-1/2 40- 1/2 40-1/2 40-1/2 Equals ankle length.
A to C 13-1/4 13-1/2 13-3/4 M 13-1/2 13-3/4 14 14-1/4 14-1/2 14-3/4 15 15-1/4 Equals crotch depth
(2° ease included).

0 to E - Equals hipline on dress foundation.

'""^ to F - Equal s 1/2 of C to E.
1
' D
1-
to G Equals 1/2 of E to F.
( £ to H Equals 1/2 of E to F.
to K Equals D to J, plus 2". Draw this line from H to K, touching
center back waistline of drsss foundation.
to A Draw slightly curved line from K to side seam.
II
, J to L 1/2" at wai sti i ne.
'
D to M 1-1/2". Draw diagonal line.
;
L to G Draw center front line from L to G through M, curving the tine
below hip,
1 H to N 1-1/2". Draw cJi agonal ne. I i

1 K to F Draw center back line through N.

1
G to 0 Equals 1/2 of G to 0.
1
0 to P Equals length from C to B.
1 F to c Equals !/2 of F to H.
1
Q to R Equal s ength of C to B.
1

1
P to R Connect.
'
0 to S
to T 1/2".
^ to T Draw leg seam line from G to T through S, curving ine j
1

to U 6". si i
y above S.J
ghtl
to V i/2".
'
F to V Draw leg seam line through U
I
B to * ?. I

A to - Connect for side seam line.

For close fitting waistline, make double tucks in front and back as Indi-
cated, making each tuck in front I" wide, and- each tuck in back 1-1,^2"
wide. 'If necessary make further reduction a side seam as shown in dia-
gram III.
Ill
Make hem at bottom of trousers pattern; then add seams and make corres-
ponding notches.
For wai stband make a double band l-l/4"wide finished, and the length Of
,

waist measure, plus 3/4 "extensi on in back for left side opening, and ex-
tra allowance at front end for double buttonholes.

0 o i- WAI9TBAND
 DRAFT OP NIGHTGOWN
1^" III
i^"

WAISTBAND

HOW TO DRAFT THE FRONT PATTERN HIP LINE

Using the dress foundation as a guide, reduce side

seam 1/2" at bust and waist, to nothing at hip.
For gathers at shoulder, slash as ndicated; then close
i

up front dart as shown in diagram il.

II
Draft 3" wide waistband; then separate the 3 sections
as shown in diagram III,
Draft armhole 1-1/2" deeper all around.
Ill
Trace front to opposite side of center front.
Draft V-neck;then make corresponding notches at waist-
band and front.
IV and V
For gathers in waist, draw slash lines from armhole to
lower edge between notches; then slash and spread 3/4",
at each slash as shown in diagram v.
For skirt, extend lines down to, ankle length and curve
bottom line as shown by dotted lin-es, raising waist-
1ine, 3/4" at si de.
For additional flare, draw slash. lines as indicated;
then slash and spread as shown in diagram v.
Add r hen! at neck edge; then add seams.

Nightgown features
a 3" wi de set-in
waistband and has
no side opening;
therefore waist-
I ne must be arge
i I

enough to slfp
BACK over bust.

\ _iu-'*_lr-v '

^ jwAIST LINE WAISTBAND

HIP LINE

HOW TO DRAFT THE SACK PATTERN

I
Trace dress back foundation;then reduce side
seam, l/2"at bust and waist, to nothing at hip.
11
Draft armhole 1-1/2" deeper all around; then
draft waistband 3"wide as indicated. Separate
the'-S sections as shown in diagram iii,
rn
Trace back to opposite side of center back line.
Draft V-neck as indicated; then make cor-
responding notches at waistband and back.
IV
For gathers, draw slash lines- In waist; then
slash and spread 3/4" at each slash as shown
in di agram v.
Raise waistline 3/4"at side and draft skirt
as described above for the front.
For tie-belt, make a double band I' wide
finished, and 32" long.
¥
Add hem at neck edge and seams on all sew-
I"
ing edges.
fri'l'I'lTl'I'lT DRESS FOUNDATION,
HIP - LENGTH
1/4" Scaie Size 1g

Made according to
the measurements, as
shown on white pagfes
8 and 11.

NO SEAMS ALLOWED

J. 1.1. l.l.l.l.ll.l.l.l.l.l.l.l.l.l.l.l.l.l.l.l.l.l,