1

Contents
Before you start 3
Make skincare and haircare formulas 6
Make makeup formulas 10
Make organic formulas 21

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 Before you start
Welcome and thank you for subscribing to the Create Cosmetic Formulas program! To help you get the
most out of the program, please read the information on this page and watch our instructional videos
specific to the programs you have subscribed to, so you can find your way around easily.

New to formulation?
If you are new to formulation – or never formulated before – or simply not sure, please watch and learn
from our FREE Cosmetic Formulation Fundamentals Masterclass first.

This is a totally free series of foundation learning covering off on essentials of putting together cosmetic
formulations, including how to read and write formulas, check and adjust pH, a variety of equipment
related learning and other fundamentals that will help you get started right.

Click here for access information: includes 15 short lectures + 50 page formulating essentials guide book
– all completely FREE to help you get started!

Did you know all cosmetic formulas must total 100% w/w (100% by weight)?
The Create Cosmetic Formulas program has been designed to help avoid errors – it has a built-in
function that prevents you from creating formulas that are MORE than 100%. If you are having any
issues with clicking ‘generate method’, the most likely reason is that you have more than 100% of
ingredients in your formula.

When you have over 100%, the program won’t allow you to proceed,

because the formula needs to total 100% maximum.

If you are not sure what this means, please watch these videos which helps explain it:

• How to write a cosmetic formula: https://youtu.be/K077QLu-YCM

• How to calculate large batch sizes: https://youtu.be/BEP5NX-xKRk

If you have created your formula with more than 100%, you will need to:
1. Print out your existing formula if you like your ingredient choices – otherwise disregard this step
2. Click on the ‘Clear Progress’ button at the top of the formula – this should reset everything to
zero
3. Start again – but make sure all ingredient inputs do not exceed 100% total

…and just like that, the program has already helped you avoid making your first error!
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Questions on equipment?
You only need basic equipment to get started. Please watch this video.

• Equipment to start making skincare at home: https://youtu.be/xzhabUsikYg

Need more help or be part of a special group to get support?

Join our exclusive Create Cosmetic Formulas subscribers facebook group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/944617743062784

Use the password: #CCF2022 to be provided access.

Post your questions in the group and receive regular updates about the program.

Want us to add an ingredient to the program?

We can only add ingredients to the program where they are available from small suppliers and allow us
to create formulation possibilities that are fail-safe for beginners. If you would like us to consider
adding an ingredient, please email the hyperlink of where you can purchase the ingredient to
[email protected]

Remember to join our facebook group and you will be kept up to date of all new ingredient additions!

Trouble sourcing materials?

With materials, we are trying to accommodate as many people as possible from all over the world. We
only list ingredients in the program that are available from small suppliers, but not every supplier
carries every material. Even experienced Cosmetic Chemists can’t get every ingredient they need from
one supplier – so please get used to what your local suppliers, as well as those in nearby countries, can
provide, so that you can have the most choice when it comes to ingredient selection.

There are a few ways to broaden your searches for raw materials:

• Visit our global suppliers page:

https://createcosmeticformulas.com/IngredientSuppliers/cosmeticingredientsuppliers-897/ –
a comprehensive list of small suppliers from all over the world. Have a supplier not on this
page? Email us and we’ll add them!
• Join our Cosmetic Raw Materials for Small Brands facebook group
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1734896293290235/
– here you can split packs with others to access materials from large suppliers

You can also try approaching your local suppliers for materials you can’t access; if they get enough
people asking them for certain materials, they may start stocking it!

Please remember: even our experienced Chemists need to go to multiple supplier for their materials, so
you shouldn’t limit yourself to only one supplier. Please expand your sources to have the most choice to
create outstanding formulas!

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Please watch our instructional videos to help you get the most out of the program:
Watch our detailed video to see step by step how to use this fantastic program.

• How to make cosmetics using the Create Cosmetic Formulas program:

https://youtu.be/IrLQUnyJjeE

Additional videos can be found specific to each program here:

• Welcome to Create Cosmetic Formulas program – click here.

• Welcome to Create Cosmetic Formulas Make-up – click here.
• Welcome to Create Cosmetic Formulas Organic – click here.

Got other questions?

Try our Frequently Asked Questions page:
https://createcosmeticformulas.com/FAQ's/cosmeticformulaquestions-888/

Remember to join and post in our facebook group:

• https://www.facebook.com/groups/944617743062784
• use password: #CCF2022

Or email us: [email protected]

We’re here to help you Create Cosmetic Formulas!

Happy formulating

5
 Make skincare and haircare formulas
Subscribe/re-subscribe here:
https://createcosmeticformulas.com/Cosmeticformulas/Makeskincareandhaircareformulas-900/

How to add a powdered herbal extract to a formula

To use a powdered extract in your formula, you will first need to ensure it is water soluble, and mixed
with water, glycerin or ethanol.

Here is how to do this:

1. Check on the suppliers site if they say the powder is oil or water soluble. If it is oil soluble, it will not
suit the program where it lists the extract as water based. If you are not sure, or their site does not tell
you, email the supplier first and ask them if that material is water, glycerin or ethanol soluble, so that
you don’t purchase an ingredient that may not be suitable.

2. Where it is water, glycerin or water soluble, mix it in a ratio of 1 : 50, unless you know the exact
extract ratio. If you are not sure, stick to the 1 : 50 rule. This means you would prepare it by mixing 1g
of powder in 50g water (or glycerin, or ethanol – whatever the supplier has told you it is soluble in).
Only prepare what you need on the day, otherwise it could grow micro-organisms. Here are some
equivalent inputs to help you if you are stuck:

• If you only need 1g of the final water-soluble extract prepared, mix 0.02g powder with 1g water
(even though this is ever so slightly over 1g, the herbal extract, if water soluble, will dissolve
and will not impact your formula).
• If you need 2g or more, multiple the above by how much you need.
• If you are stuck, remember to email [email protected] , we have a Cosmetic
Chemist checking those emails to help you if you are stuck.

3. If you want to create your own herbal extracts using ethanol or glycerin from dried herbs, please
watch this video which shows you how to do that, and find the exact % inputs shown on that video in
this dropbox link.

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 Are you looking at the product types and thinking – what does that mean?
Here is a little more information to help you decide…

What do you want to create today?

Balm – lips A balm specifically for use on the lips – from a soft, semi-solid consistency through to
stick like structure, the choice is yours, just use more consistency factors to increase the
‘hardness’
Balm – body A balm specifically for use on the body (not lips) - from a soft, semi-solid consistency
through to stick like structure, the choice is yours, just use more consistency factors to
increase the ‘hardness’
Body wash (foaming) A foaming product for cleansing the skin of the body. Wash off shortly after application
and massaging onto the skin.
Body scrub (foaming) A foaming, exfoliating scrub product for the body. Wash off shortly after applying and
massaging onto the skin.
Clay/charcoal mask A mask product, containing clay or charcoal, for purifying the skin. Apply to face or body,
leave on for approx. 15 minutes then wash off thoroughly.
Conditioner Apply to the hair after shampooing to condition the hair and leave it feeling soft and
detangled. Leave on 1-5 minutes then wash off thoroughly.
Crème cleanser A gentle cleanser ideal for sensitive and dry skin types, apply to the face, massage on to
clean and then wash off thoroughly.
Crème cleanser (scrub) A gentle cleanser ideal for sensitive and dry skin types with exfoliating scrub particles.
Apply to the face, massage on to clean and then wash off thoroughly.
Face wash (foaming) Deeper foaming cleansing for normal and oily skin types for gentle yet effective cleaning.
Massage on, and then wash off thoroughly.
Face scrub (foaming) Deeper foaming cleansing for normal and oily skin types with exfoliating scrub particles.
Massage on, and then wash off thoroughly.
Gel A clear leave on product for light, non-greasy hydration. Can be used on face or body.
Mist/spray A product sprayed onto the skin to provide light hydration throughout the day.

O/W body butter Very viscous and emollient cream-like product for deep hydration and moisturisation.
Ideal for all over body use.
O/W cream Viscous cream to hydrate normal to dry skin types. Ideal for face and body use.

O/W lotion A lighter lotion product to provide good hydration to the body, it spreads well and easily
delivers moisture to arms and legs.
Serum (gel like) More moisturising and hydrating than a gel but lighter than a lotion and cream. Serums
are useful to provide actives in a light product form that can be applied before more
intensive moisturising creams.
Serum (lotion like) More moisturising and hydrating than a light serum or gel, it’s still lighter in feeling than a
cream. Serums are useful to provide actives in a light product form that can be applied
before more intensive moisturising creams.
Shampoo High foaming and cleansing for the hair. Apply, massage through then rinse off
thoroughly.
Toner Can be used after cleansing to tighten pores and refresh the skin before applying serums
or moisturisers.
W/O cream Extremely rich and hydrating cream product for very dry and mature skin types. Not
suited to oily, young or Asian skin types; this product form is ideal for 50+ female
Caucasians.
W/O ointment Extremely rich and viscous, ointments are more cream like than a balm but very balm
like. Ideal for intensive care products where an emollient after feel is desired as they can
feel a bit greasy.
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 Then when you get to the formulas and see ingredient types, are you wondering
– what does that mean?
Here is a brief explanation about the different ingredient types you see listed.

Actives Highly active ingredients with proven results; these are different to added extras because
they have proven clinically efficacy.

Added extras Materials that have a nice story but not proven results. They can add to your point of
difference and product story.

Antioxidants Help protect a formula against ‘rancidity’ – colour or odour changes that can occur to
plant or essential oils. They are NOT preservatives.

Chelating agents Bind to metal ions that may be present in hard water or formulas. They can also help
boost antioxidant and preservative performance. We’ve made these essential in formulas
where they are absolutely necessary; optional in formulas where they are not absolutely
necessary and left them out of formulas where they are not necessary.
Consistency factors Make balms ‘harder’ and creams ‘thicker’. We’ve set these to suit different product
types.

Emulsifiers Help hold oils and water together to make lotions, creams and conditioners. We’ve set
these to be the right types to suit different products. You’ll see some chemical
descriptions so we can classify them properly and this will make more sense if you study
more with us later.
Essential oils/fragrances Make products smell (and flavours taste) nice. We’ve set the limits to ensure safe and
(or flavours in lip balms) suitable use for different product forms. We also help you know which essential oils
blend well with each other.
Humectants Provide hydration to formulas. They give moisture, suppleness and smoothness to the
skin.

Lipids Are oils and butters. We call them ‘lipids’ to cover the whole class of ‘oily substances’.

pH adjuster To make products suit the preservatives or actives selected, or suit the skin, we need to
adjust the pH of a formula. Please watch our video on how to adjust pH and then use the
right material to achieve the right pH depending on the formula you create!
Preservatives Help protect against microbial contamination. We’ve set the limits to ensure safe but
effective use for you.

Surfactants Are the materials that create bubbles and clean well in wash off products. You will see
more technical terms to describe the different types of surfactants that we use, but
we’ve set these up so you don’t need to know about the different types to be able to
choose the right materials!

Water alternatives Used to make your product smell and feel nicer than just using water, they are
completely optional and can add to your point of difference and product story. If you use
too many water alternatives and have problems with your water calculation, it means
you have gone over 100% for your formula. Reduce the water alternatives until the
formula totals 100%.

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 Sometimes in the method you’ll read terminology you might not be sure of too.
Here’s what that means:

Emulsion These are the ‘white’ looking creams/lotions that form when we mix oil and water
together properly.
Low shear If you have more advanced equipment, it means mix with a propeller stirrer. If you are
using a whisk, just stir at a moderate speed. Be careful not to introduce too much air into
your formula while mixing though, even if the method doesn’t specifically state this.
Never use a stick blender if you see low shear stated.
Homogenous This is a more scientific way of saying ‘evenly dispersed’ or ‘evenly spread throughout’.
High shear If you have more advanced equipment, it means mix with a homogenising head. If you
are using a whisk, stir vigorously at high speed. Be careful not to introduce too much air
into your formula while mixing though, even if the method doesn’t specifically state this.
Stick blenders also create high shear although in small samples these can suck a lot of air
into the sample which is not suitable.

Want to know more? Want to learn to formulate professionally? Study with Institute of Personal Care Science –
all on-line, study anywhere, anytime – full Internationally Recognised Training and Qualifications.
Download course information, prospectus, price list and application form here

COURSE IDEAL FOR… NORMAL DURATION

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Diploma of Personal Care Our most comprehensive formulation program including quality control, 12 months (part time)
Formulation recommended for Beginners and Qualified Scientists wanting full career
training – this is the qualification Employers look for on a resume when hiring
a Formulation/Cosmetic Chemist
Certificate in Advanced Qualified scientists/allied health wanting rapid up-skilling in formulating and 15 weeks (part time)
Cosmetic Science quality control at a commercial level
Certificate in Advanced Those wanting to specialise in hair care, treatment, styling and temporary hair 15 weeks (part time)
Hair Formulations colourant formulations at a Professional level.
Certificate in Advanced Rapid, advanced and specific up-skilling in Organic formulations – ensure you 2 months (part time)
Organic Formulations can formulate first by completing at least our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic
Science or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation
Certificate in Advanced Rapid, advanced and specific up-skilling in Colour Cosmetic formulations – 2 months (part time)
Colour Cosmetics ensure you can formulate first by completing at least our Certificate in
Formulation Advanced Cosmetic Science or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation
Beginners Cosmetic A series of 9 Introductory Formulation videos explaining the basics of 15 hours
Science Workshops cosmetic science with demonstrations of how to put together formulations (1month access to watch as
PLUS Formulation Starter Booklet so you can get making straight away! many times as you like)

Diploma & Workshop in Brand Management

Diploma of Cosmetic Comprehensive Brand Management training for those involved in the 7 months (part time)
Brand Management marketing, concept development and management of Cosmetic brands and
their product range
Cosmetic Brand Buisness Looking to create or build your own cosmetic brand? This workshop essential 15 hrs + activities
workshop viewing PLUS comes with a business plan template specific to the cosmetic (1 month access to watch
and personal care industry as many times as you like)
Certificate Courses in Regulatory Affairs
Certificate in Cosmetic Cosmetic compliance including safety, evaluation, marketing, labelling, 6 months (part time)
Regulatory Essentials ingredient and quality checks (AU, EU, US, NZ, South Korea, Canada, China and
JP; including EU safety evaluations and preparation of EU PIFs)
EU Cosmetic Compliance Workshop 1: Preparing Labels & Responsible Person: Those involved in EU 2hrs each
Workshops label compliance and/or as the responsible person (1month access to watch as
Workshop 2: Preparing your PIF: Those involved in preparing EU Product many times as you like!)
Information Files for EU compliance
Workshop 3: Safety Calculations & Evaluations: Those involved in safety
calculations and evaluations to EU compliance requirements

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 Make makeup formulas
Subscribe/re-subscribe here:
https://createcosmeticformulas.com/Cosmeticformulas/Makemakeupformulas-901/

What’s so different about formulating with colour?

Apart from the obvious (the colour!), colour formulations need to stabilise a lot of powder and pigment
beyond just being a stable formulation themselves.

If you have made general skin and hair care products before, you’ll notice these differences and how
your formulas and methods need to be a little different to accommodate these extra stability needs.

If you’ve never made general skin and hair care products before, don’t panic, this program will guide
you on how to build your formulas correctly and incorporate colour effectively, but you will probably
benefit from having a little basic hands on experience first from our Beginners workshops, which you
can read more about here:
https://personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/BeginnersCosmeticScienceWorkshops-469/ You
don’t have to do these beginner workshops to use this program, but if you are feeling a little
overwhelmed or having trouble making samples, this beginner workshop series will help you a lot –
jumping straight into formulating with colour, if you’ve never made product before, is a bit like trying to
run before you can walk. If you are feeling stuck with how to put formulas together, please complete
that beginners workshop series and you’ll find your feet easier.

In this program, we have included colourants that you can get from small suppliers. Since different
small suppliers call their colourants different names, we’ve included a description in the program of the
colour we are referring to, so you can source that colourant, even when called a different name.

With your different foundations (and concealer) products, you will see ‘Skin colour blend’ as your only
choice in the ‘mica and colourants’. To make sure you get the right coverage and colour for each
formulation type, we have calculated the inputs of colourants you need to get various shades. Please
follow the inputs provided to achieve the required shade as listed in the following tables. This is also
mentioned and explained in our introductory video for the Make Up version of the program, so please
also watch that video (provided in the welcome page).

Make sure you also watch our videos on how to create colour provided in the welcome email, as it
shows you how to combine colour into your formulas when you are preparing samples.

Happy formulating!

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Concealer Stick
Shade 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
%w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w
Titanium dioxideor zinc oxide 10.00 10.00 10.00 9.00 7.50 - -

Iron oxide yellow 0.91 1.25 1.70 2.30 3.60 6.30 5.00
(CI 77492)
Iron oxide red – russet 0.28 0.40 0.50 0.65 1.10 4.15 4.15
(CI 77491)
Iron oxide black 0.11 0.16 0.21 0.275 0.45 4.55 4.55
(CI 77499)
Mica 3.70 3.19 2.59 2.775 2.35 - 1.30

Shade Green Purple

%w/w %w/w
Titanium dioxide or zinc oxide 7.50 7.50

Chromium oxide green 2.50 -

Ultramarine violet - 7.50

Mica 5.00 -

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Foundation – Crème Set
Shade 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
%w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w
Titanium dioxide or zinc oxide 8.00 8.00 8.00 7.20 6.00 - -

Iron oxide yellow 0.60 0.875 1.20 1.30 2.20 4.00 3.20
(CI 77492)
Iron oxide red – russet 0.215 0.32 0.40 0.475 0.90 3.30 3.30
(CI 77491)
Iron oxide black 0.085 0.13 0.16 0.20 0.725 3.65 3.65
(CI 77499)
Mica 3.10 2.675 2.24 2.825 2.175 1.05 1.85

BB Cream
Shade 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
%w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w
Titanium dioxide or zinc oxide 5.00 5.00 5.00 4.60 3.75 - -

Iron oxide yellow 0.41 0.62 0.80 1.17 1.75 2.85 2.29
(CI 77492)
Iron oxide red – russet 0.12 0.17 0.22 0.31 0.61 1.92 1.92
(CI 77491)
Iron oxide black 0.03 0.05 0.07 0.10 0.46 2.10 2.1
(CI 77499
Mica 1.44 1.16 0.91 0.82 0.43 0.13 0.69

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Foundation liquid – water based
Shade 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
%w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w
Titanium dioxide or zinc oxide 6.00 6.00 6.00 5.50 4.50 - -

Iron oxide yellow 0.50 0.74 0.96 1.40 2.10 3.42 2.75
(CI 77492)
Iron oxide red – russet 0.14 0.20 0.26 0.375 0.725 2.30 2.30
(CI 77491)
Iron oxide black 0.04 0.06 0.08 0.125 0.55 2.50 2.50
(CI 77499)
Mica 2.32 2.00 1.70 1.60 1.125 0.78 1.45

Foundation liquid – oil based

Shade 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
%w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w
Titanium dioxide or zinc oxide 6.00 6.00 6.00 5.50 4.50 - -

Iron oxide yellow 0.455 0.60 0.85 1.00 1.70 3.15 2.50
(CI 77492)
Iron oxide red – russet 0.14 0.20 0.28 0.355 0.70 2.10 2.10
(CI 77491)
Iron oxide black 0.055 0.075 0.105 0.15 0.55 2.25 2.25
(CI 77499)
Mica 3.35 3.125 2.765 2.995 2.55 2.50 3.15

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Foundation – loose powder
Shade 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
%w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w
Titanium dioxide or zinc oxide 8.00 8.00 8.00 7.20 6.00 - -

Iron oxide yellow 1.40 2.00 2.90 3.50 6.00 7.50 6.00
(CI 77492)
Iron oxide red – russet 0.375 0.55 0.80 1.00 1.80 4.50 4.50
(CI 77491)
Iron oxide black 0.11 0.15 0.22 0.275 1.25 4.75 4.75
(CI 77499)
Mica 7.115 6.30 5.08 5.025 1.95 0.25 1.75

Translucent powder

Shade 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
%w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w %w/w
Titanium dioxide or zinc oxide 5.00 5.00 5.00 3.75 1.80 - -

Iron oxide yellow 0.70 1.00 1.45 3.00 3.20 3.75 3.00
(CI 77492)
Iron oxide red – russet 0.20 0.30 0.40 0.90 1.50 2.25 2.25
(CI 77491)
Iron oxide black 0.05 0.08 0.11 0.63 1.30 2.375 2.375
(CI 77499)
Mica 2.55 2.12 1.54 0.22 0.70 0.125 0.875

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Mascara iron oxide blends
Shade Iron oxide black Iron oxide brown blend Iron oxide blue blend
(dark brown)
%w/w %w/w %w/w
Iron oxide red – russet - 1.20 -
(CI 77491)
Iron oxide black 10.00 8.80 1.00
(CI 77499)
Ultramarine blue - - 9.00
(CI 77007)
Eyeliner iron oxide blends
Shade Iron oxide black Iron oxide brown blend Iron oxide blue blend
(dark brown)
%w/w %w/w %w/w
Iron oxide yellow - 2.55 -
(CI 77492)
Iron oxide red – russet(CI - 2.55 -
77491)
Iron oxide black 14.00 8.90 1.40
(CI 77499)
Ultramarine blue - - 12.60
(CI 77007)

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How do I add a powdered extract to my formula?

To use a powdered extract in your formula, you will first need to ensure it is water soluble, and mixed
with water, glycerin or ethanol.

Here is how to do this:

1. Check on the suppliers site if they say the powder is oil or water soluble. If it is oil soluble, it will not
suit the program where it lists the extract as water based. If you are not sure, or their site does not tell
you, email the supplier first and ask them if that material is water, glycerin or ethanol soluble, so that
you don’t purchase an ingredient that may not be suitable.

2. Where it is water, glycerin or water soluble, mix it in a ratio of 1 : 50, unless you know the exact
extract ratio. If you are not sure, stick to the 1 : 50 rule. This means you would prepare it by mixing 1g
of powder in 50g water (or glycerin, or ethanol – whatever the supplier has told you it is soluble in).
Only prepare what you need on the day, otherwise it could grow micro-organisms. Here are some
equivalent inputs to help you if you are stuck:

• If you only need 1g of the final water-soluble extract prepared, mix 0.02g powder with 1g water
(even though this is ever so slightly over 1g, the herbal extract, if water soluble, will dissolve
and will not impact your formula).
• If you need 2g or more, multiple the above by how much you need.
• If you are stuck, remember to email [email protected] , we have a Cosmetic
Chemist checking those emails to help you if you are stuck.

3. If you want to create your own herbal extracts using ethanol or glycerin from dried herbs, please
watch this video which shows you how to do that, and find the exact % inputs shown on that video in
this dropbox link.

17
V7
 Are you looking at the product types and thinking – what does that mean? Here is a little
more information to help you decide…
What do you want to create today?
Blush – loose powder Loose mineral powder to apply to the cheeks for blush colour.
Bronzer – loose powder Loose mineral powder to add bronze to golden-bronze colour. Can be used on the
face, shoulders or body for an instant bronzed effect.
Bronzer – stick An instant bronzing product in stick form, to add bronze to golden-bronze colour.
Can be used on the face, shoulders or body for an instant bronzed effect.
Concealer - stick A strongly opacifying stick product to cover blemishes or hide imperfections.
Contourer – loose powder Loose mineral powder to add depth, shadows and contours to face shape or body
features. Can be used on the face, décolletage or body areas for a contoured
effect.
Contourer – stick An instant contouring product in stick form to add depth, shadows and contours
to face shape or body features. Can be used on the face, décolletage or body areas
for a contoured effect.
Eyeliner Liquid eyeliner to emphasise the eyes or create ‘cat’s eye’ lines.
Eyeshadow – loose powder Loose mineral powder you can create a variety of colours with.
Foundation – crème set Good coverage solid foundation that applies easily with a sponge, to suit a variety
of skin tones.
Foundation – liquid – BB cream Light coverage water based liquid foundation with actives added.
Foundation – liquid – water based Good coverage water based liquid foundation for a variety of skin tones.
Foundation – liquid – oil based Good coverage oil-based liquid foundation for a variety of skin tones.
Foundation – loose powder Good coverage mineral powder foundation for a variety of skin tones.
Highlighter – loose powder Loose mineral powder to highlight and enhance features. Adds white, golden or
rosy pearl tones to suit a variety of skin tones. Can be used on tops of cheeks,
around eyes or on the body to accentuate and highlight key features.
Highlighter – stick An instant highlighting product in stick form, to highlight and enhance features.
Adds white, golden or rosy pearl tones to suit a variety of skin tones. Can be used
on tops of cheeks, around eyes or on the body to accentuate and highlight key
features.
Lipgloss Liquid lip colour that feels luscious on the lips with a variety of colourants that can
be added to alter the look and colour.
Lipstick Solid lip colour that feels creamy on the lips with a variety of colourants that can
be added to alter the look and colour.
Mascara Lash building mascara that coats lashes to enhance their volume and appearance.

18
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 Then when you get to the formulas and see ingredient types, are you wondering
– what does that mean?
Here is a brief explanation about the different ingredient types you see listed.
Actives Highly active ingredients with proven results; these are different to added extras because
they have proven clinically efficacy. Because of the difficulty in stabilising colour in
formulas, we have only included a few actives in this program. To add more actives and
create more unique colour cosmetics, you would need to undertake more detailed study to
ensure the formula you create is stable with other actives selected, please contact us if
you’d like to learn more to do this: [email protected]
Added extras Materials that have a nice story but not proven results. They can add to your point of
difference and product story.
Antioxidants Help protect a formula against ‘rancidity’ – colour or odour changes that can occur to plant
or essential oils. They are NOT preservatives.
Binders Help the colour powder to bind to your skin, so the powder doesn’t just fall off.
Chelating agents Bind to metal ions that may be present in hard water or formulas. They can also help boost
antioxidant and preservative performance. We’ve made these essential in formulas where
they are absolutely necessary; optional in formulas where they are not absolutely
necessary and left them out of formulas where they are not necessary.
Consistency factors Make balms ‘harder’ and creams ‘thicker’. We’ve set these to suit different product types.
Effects pigments Add some extra hue, shimmer or shine to your formulas – use more for a greater effect, or
less for a subtle effect. Add none at all for flat colour.
Emulsifiers Help hold oils and water together to make lotions, creams and conditioners. We’ve set
these to be the right types to suit different products. You’ll see some chemical descriptions
so we can classify them properly and this will make more sense if you study more with us
later.
Essential oils/fragrances Make products smell (and flavours taste) nice. We’ve set the limits to ensure safe and
(or flavours in lip balms) suitable use for different product forms. These should be limited in make-up products, we
have set the limits to very low, or you can leave them out altogether.

Humectants Provide hydration to formulas. They give moisture, suppleness and smoothness to the skin.
Lipids Are oils and butters. We call them ‘lipids’ to cover the whole class of ‘oily substances’.
pH adjuster To make products suit the preservatives or actives selected, or suit the skin, we need to
adjust the pH of a formula. Please watch our video on how to adjust pH and then use the
right material to achieve the right pH depending on the formula you create!
Preservatives Help protect against microbial contamination. We’ve set the limits to ensure safe but
effective use for you.
Water alternatives Used to make your product smell and feel nicer than just using water, they are completely
optional and can add to your point of difference and product story. If you use too many
water alternatives and have problems with your water calculation, it means you have gone
over 100% for your formula. Reduce the water alternatives until the formula totals 100%.
Water proofing agent Provides water proofing properties to the formula, used in mascara and eyeliner to make
them water resistant.

19
V7
 Sometimes in the method you’ll read terminology you might not be sure of too.
Here’s what that means:
Emulsion These are the ‘white’ looking creams/lotions that form when we mix oil and water together
properly.
Low shear If you have more advanced equipment, it means mix with a propeller stirrer. If you are
using a whisk, just stir at a moderate speed. Be careful not to introduce too much air into
your formula while mixing though, even if the method doesn’t specifically state this. Never
use a stick blender if you see low shear stated.
Homogenous This is a more scientific way of saying ‘evenly dispersed’ or ‘evenly spread throughout’.
High shear If you have more advanced equipment, it means mix with a homogenising head. If you are
using a whisk, stir vigorously at high speed. Be careful not to introduce too much air into
your formula while mixing though, even if the method doesn’t specifically state this. Stick
blenders also create high shear although in small samples these can suck a lot of air into
the sample which is not suitable.

Want to know more? Want to learn to formulate professionally? Study with Institute of Personal Care
Science – all on-line, study anywhere, anytime – full Internationally Recognised Training and Qualifications.
Download course information, prospectus, price list and application form here

COURSE IDEAL FOR… NORMAL DURATION

Diploma & Certificate Courses in Cosmetic Science
Diploma of Personal Care Our most comprehensive formulation program including quality control, 12 months (part time)
Formulation recommended for Beginners and Qualified Scientists wanting full career
training – this is the qualification Employers look for on a resume when hiring
a Formulation/Cosmetic Chemist
Certificate in Advanced Qualified scientists/allied health wanting rapid up-skilling in formulating and 15 weeks (part time)
Cosmetic Science quality control at a commercial level
Certificate in Advanced Those wanting to specialise in hair care, treatment, styling and temporary hair 18 weeks (part time)
Hair Formulations colourant formulations at a Professional level.
Certificate in Advanced Rapid, advanced and specific up-skilling in Organic formulations – ensure you 2 months (part time)
Organic Formulation can formulate first by completing at least our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic
Science or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation
Certificate in Advanced Rapid, advanced and specific up-skilling in Colour Cosmetic formulations – 2 months (part time)
Colour Cosmetic ensure you can formulate first by completing at least our Certificate in
Formulation Advanced Cosmetic Science or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation
Beginners Cosmetic A series of 9 Introductory Formulation videos explaining the basics of 15 hours
Science Workshops cosmetic science with demonstrations of how to put together formulations (1month access to watch as
PLUS Formulation Starter Booklet so you can get making straight away! many times as you like)

Diploma & Workshop in Brand Management

Diploma of Cosmetic Comprehensive Brand Management training for those involved in the 7 months (part time)
Brand Management marketing, concept development and management of Cosmetic brands and
their product range
Cosmetic Brand Business Looking to create or build your own cosmetic brand? This workshop essential 15 hrs + activities
Workshops viewing PLUS comes with a business plan template specific to the cosmetic (1 month access to watch
and personal care industry as many times as you like)
Certificate Courses in Regulatory Affairs
Certificate in Cosmetic Cosmetic compliance including safety, evaluation, marketing, labelling, 6 months (part time)
Regulatory Essentials ingredient and quality checks (AU, EU, US, NZ, South Korea, Canada, China and
JP; including EU safety evaluations and preparation of EU PIFs)
EU Cosmetic Compliance Workshop 1: Preparing Labels & Responsible Person: Those involved in EU 2hrs each
Workshops label compliance and/or as the responsible person (1month access to watch as
Workshop 2: Preparing your PIF: Those involved in preparing EU Product many times as you like!)
Information Files for EU compliance
Workshop 3: Safety Calculations & Evaluations: Those involved in safety
calculations and evaluations to EU compliance requirements

20
V7
 Make organic formulas
Subscribe/re-subscribe here:
https://createcosmeticformulas.com/Cosmeticformulas/Makeorganicformulas-902/

What makes formulas ‘organic’ compared to just ‘natural’

Natural formulas contain natural and naturally derived materials without synthetic materials being
used throughout processing of the starting raw materials. You can make an organic formula by using
organic materials in place of natural materials where possible.

But to have a ‘Certified Organic’ formula/product, you need to:

• have minimum inputs of organic materials,

• your organic: natural ratio needs to be a minimum ratio
• you must use organic materials where the organic version of the material exists e.g. plant
oils and essential oils
• and you can only use certain types of preservatives, emulsifiers and surfactants.

This program has been designed to automatically calculate the minim inputs required to achieve
‘Certified Organic’ input to COSMOS standards, as well as make sure your organic: natural ratio is the
minimum required. It also only includes ingredients that you can use in COSMOS certified formulas.

In this program, you will need to use water alternatives to make up a certain input of your formula
(where water is the bulk ingredient) or other minimum inputs may be set to make sure you achieve
these input requirements, without you needing to worry about the full details or even performing
the calculations. If there are minimums set on certain ingredients, this is why.

You may also need to use some reconstituted materials, so we have reconstitution information for
you below to help with calculating how to add concentrated powders in the right dilution.

How to calculate reconstitution values

In organic formulas, you need to reconstitute some materials to achieve the minimum required
organic input. Here is how to calculate reconstitution values:

• If you are using an aloe vera 100:1 concentrate, divide the required reconstituted value by 100,
then add that much of the powder concentrate + remainder in water. For example:
o Let’s say your formula needs 70% aloe vera juice – reconstituted 100:1, this means you
need:
▪ 70 / 100 = 0.7 of 100:1 aloe concentrate (powder) mixed with 69.3 water
• If you are using an aloe vera 200:1 concentrate, divide the required reconstituted value by 200,
then add that much of the powder concentrate + remainder in water. For example:
o Let’s say your formula needs 70% aloe vera juice – reconstituted 200:1, this means you
need:
▪ 70 / 200 = 0.35 of 200:1 aloe concentrate (powder) mixed with 69.65 water

21
V2
The formula will tell you how much reconstituted aloe vera juice you need if that is what you select
– then calculate the amount of aloe concentrate (powder) depending on which form of the
material you are using.

You don’t need to do reconstitution calculations with hydrosols or coconut water.

How do I add a powdered extract to my formula?

To use a powdered extract in your formula, you will first need to ensure it is water soluble, and
mixed with water, glycerin or ethanol.

Remember, to achieve Organic Certification requirements, you must use organic extracts, and must
use organic ethanol or organic glycerin to dissolve them, using the steps described below. If you
don’t, a certifier won’t accept the extracts as suitable.

Here is how to do this:

1. Check on the suppliers site if they say the powder is oil or water soluble. If it is oil soluble, it will
not suit the program where it lists the extract as water based. If you are not sure, or their site does
not tell you, email the supplier first and ask them if that material is water, glycerin or ethanol
soluble, so that you don’t purchase an ingredient that may not be suitable.

2. Where it is water, glycerin or water soluble, mix it in a ratio of 1 : 50, unless you know the exact
extract ratio. If you are not sure, stick to the 1 : 50 rule. This means you would prepare it by mixing
1g of powder in 50g water (or glycerin, or ethanol – whatever the supplier has told you it is soluble
in). Only prepare what you need on the day, otherwise it could grow micro-organisms. Here are
some equivalent inputs to help you if you are stuck:

• If you only need 1g of the final water-soluble extract prepared, mix 0.02g powder with 1g
water (even though this is ever so slightly over 1g, the herbal extract, if water soluble, will
dissolve and will not impact your formula).
• If you need 2g or more, multiple the above by how much you need.
• If you are stuck, remember to email [email protected] , we have a
Cosmetic Chemist checking those emails to help you if you are stuck.

3. If you want to create your own herbal extracts using ethanol or glycerin from dried herbs, please
watch this video which shows you how to do that, and find the exact % inputs shown on that video
in this dropbox link.

22
V2
 Are you looking at the product types and thinking – what does that mean?
Here is a little more information to help you decide…
What do you want to create today?
Balm – lips A balm specifically for use on the lips – from a soft, semi-solid consistency through to stick like
structure, the choice is yours, just use more consistency factors to increase the ‘hardness’
Balm – body A balm specifically for use on the body (not lips) - from a soft, semi-solid consistency through
to stick like structure, the choice is yours, just use more consistency factors to increase the
‘hardness’
Body wash (foaming) A foaming product for cleansing the skin of the body. Wash off shortly after application and
massaging onto the skin.
Body scrub A foaming, exfoliating scrub product for the body. Wash off shortly after applying and
(foaming) massaging onto the skin.
Clay/charcoal mask A mask product, containing clay or charcoal, for purifying the skin. Apply to face or body, leave
on for approx. 15 minutes then wash off thoroughly.
Cleansing balm A semi-solid oil based product to gently remove make-up.
Cleansing oil A liquid oil based product to gently remove make-up.
Conditioner Apply to the hair after shampooing to condition the hair and leave it feeling soft and
detangled. Leave on 1-5 minutes then wash off thoroughly.
Crème cleanser A gentle cleanser ideal for sensitive and dry skin types, apply to the face, massage on to clean
and then wash off thoroughly.
Crème cleanser A gentle cleanser ideal for sensitive and dry skin types with exfoliating scrub particles. Apply to
(scrub) the face, massage on to clean and then wash off thoroughly.
Face wash (foaming) Deeper foaming cleansing for normal and oily skin types for gentle yet effective cleaning.
Massage on, and then wash off thoroughly.
Face scrub (foaming) Deeper foaming cleansing for normal and oily skin types with exfoliating scrub particles.
Massage on, and then wash off thoroughly.
Gel A clear leave on product for light, non-greasy hydration. Can be used on face or body.
Micellar water A gentle liquid product to remove water based make up easily.
Mist/spray A product sprayed onto the skin to provide light hydration throughout the day.
O/W body butter Very viscous and emollient cream-like product for deep hydration and moisturisation. Ideal for
all over body use.
O/W cream Viscous cream to hydrate normal to dry skin types. Ideal for face and body use.
O/W lotion A lighter lotion product to provide good hydration to the body, it spreads well and easily
delivering moisture to arms and legs.
Serum (gel like) More moisturising and hydrating than a gel but lighter than a lotion and cream. Serums are
useful to provide actives in a light product form that can be applied before more intensive
moisturising creams.
Serum (lotion like) More moisturising and hydrating than a light serum or gel, it’s still lighter in feeling than a
cream. Serums are useful to provide actives in a light product form that can be applied before
more intensive moisturising creams.
Shampoo High foaming and cleansing for the hair. Apply, massage through then rinse off thoroughly.
Toner Can be used after cleansing to tighten pores and refresh the skin before applying serums or
moisturisers.
W/O cream Extremely rich and hydrating cream product for very dry and mature skin types. Not suited to
oily, young or Asian skin types; this product form is ideal for 50+ female Caucasians.
W/O ointment Extremely rich and viscous, ointments are more cream like than a balm but very balm like.
Ideal for intensive care products where an emollient after feel is desired as they can feel a bit
greasy.

23
V2
 When you get to the formulas and see ingredient types, are you wondering
– what does that mean?
Here is a brief explanation about the different ingredient types you see listed.
Actives Highly active ingredients with proven results; these are different to added extras because they
have proven clinical efficacy.
• One active, CoQ10, needs to be reconstituted before use if it comes in powdered form.
In the formula, you will have a reconstituted value to use; this needs to be mixed first.
For example, if you plan to use 0.5% reconstituted CoQ10, you would divide this by 10,
then use that amount of powder, and mix the remainder with organic sunflower oil.
o 0.5 / 10 = 0.05 of CoQ10 powder + 0.45 organic sunflower oil

Added extras Materials that have a nice story but not proven results. They can add to your point of
difference and product story.

Antioxidants Help protect a formula against ‘rancidity’ – colour or odour changes that can occur to plant or
essential oils. They are NOT preservatives.

Chelating agents Bind to metal ions that may be present in hard water or formulas. They can also help boost
antioxidant and preservative performance. We’ve made these essential in formulas where
they are absolutely necessary; optional in formulas where they are not absolutely necessary
and left them out of formulas where they are not necessary.
Consistency factors Make balms ‘harder’ and creams ‘thicker’. We’ve set these to suit different product types.

Emulsifiers Help hold oils and water together to make lotions, creams and conditioners. We’ve set these
to be the right types to suit different products. You’ll see some chemical descriptions so we
can classify them properly and this will make more sense if you study more with us later.
Essential Make products smell (and flavours taste) nice. We’ve set the limits to ensure safe and suitable
oils/fragrances (or use for different product forms. We also help you know which essential oils blend well with
flavours in lip balms) each other.
Humectants Provide hydration to formulas. They give moisture, suppleness and smoothness to the skin.

Lipids Are oils and butters. We call them ‘lipids’ to cover the whole class of ‘oily substances’.

pH adjuster To make products suit the preservatives or actives selected, or suit the skin, we need to adjust
the pH of a formula. Please watch our video on how to adjust pH and then use the right
material to achieve the right pH depending on the formula you create!
Preservatives Help protect against microbial contamination. We’ve set the limits to ensure safe but effective
use for you.

Surfactants Are the materials that create bubbles and clean well in wash off products. You will see more
technical terms to describe the different types of surfactants that we use, but we’ve set these
up so you don’t need to know about the different types to be able to choose the right
materials!

Water alternatives Used to make your product smell and feel nicer than just using water, they are completely
optional and can add to your point of difference and product story. If you use too many water
alternatives and have problems with your water calculation, it means you have gone over
100% for your formula. Reduce the water alternatives until the formula totals 100%.

24
V2
 Sometimes in the method you’ll read terminology you might not be sure of too.
Here’s what that means:
Emulsion These are the ‘white’ looking creams/lotions that form when we mix oil and water
together properly.
Low shear If you have more advanced equipment, it means mix with a propeller stirrer. If you are
using a whisk, just stir at a moderate speed. Be careful not to introduce too much air into
your formula while mixing though, even if the method doesn’t specifically state this.
Never use a stick blender if you see low shear stated.
Homogenous This is a more scientific way of saying ‘evenly dispersed’ or ‘evenly spread throughout’.
High shear If you have more advanced equipment, it means mix with a homogenising head. If you
are using a whisk, stir vigorously at high speed. Be careful not to introduce too much air
into your formula while mixing though, even if the method doesn’t specifically state this.
Stick blenders also create high shear although in small samples these can suck a lot of air
into the sample which is not suitable.

Want to know more? Want to learn to formulate professionally? Study with Institute of Personal Care
Science – all on-line, study anywhere, anytime – full Internationally Recognised Training and Qualifications.
Download course information, prospectus, price list and application form here

COURSE IDEAL FOR… NORMAL DURATION

Diploma & Certificate Courses in Cosmetic Science
Diploma of Personal Care Our most comprehensive formulation program including quality control, 12 months (part time)
Formulation recommended for Beginners and Qualified Scientists wanting full career
training – this is the qualification Employers look for on a resume when hiring
a Formulation/Cosmetic Chemist
Certificate in Advanced Qualified scientists/allied health wanting rapid up-skilling in formulating and 15 weeks (part time)
Cosmetic Science quality control at a commercial level
Certificate in Advanced Those wanting to specialise in hair care, treatment, styling and temporary hair 15 weeks (part time)
Hair Formulations colourant formulations at a Professional level.
Certificate in Advanced Rapid, advanced and specific up-skilling in Organic formulations – ensure you 2 months (part time)
Organic Formulations can formulate first by completing at least our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic
Science or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation
Certificate in Advanced Rapid, advanced and specific up-skilling in Colour Cosmetic formulations – 2 months (part time)
Colour Cosmetics ensure you can formulate first by completing at least our Certificate in
Formulation Advanced Cosmetic Science or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation
Beginners Cosmetic A series of 9 Introductory Formulation videos explaining the basics of 15 hours
Science Workshops cosmetic science with demonstrations of how to put together formulations (1month access to watch as
PLUS Formulation Starter Booklet so you can get making straight away! many times as you like)

Diploma & Workshop in Brand Management

Diploma of Cosmetic Comprehensive Brand Management training for those involved in the 7 months (part time)
Brand Management marketing, concept development and management of Cosmetic brands and
their product range
Cosmetic Brand Business Looking to create or build your own cosmetic brand? This workshop essential 15 hrs + activities
Workshop viewing PLUS comes with a business plan template specific to the cosmetic (1 month access to watch
and personal care industry as many times as you like)
Certificate Courses in Regulatory Affairs
Certificate in Cosmetic Cosmetic compliance including safety, evaluation, marketing, labelling, 6 months (part time)
Regulatory Essentials ingredient and quality checks (AU, EU, US, NZ, South Korea, Canada, China and
JP; including EU safety evaluations and preparation of EU PIFs)
EU Cosmetic Compliance Workshop 1: Preparing Labels & Responsible Person: Those involved in EU 2hrs each
Workshops label compliance and/or as the responsible person (1month access to watch as
Workshop 2: Preparing your PIF: Those involved in preparing EU Product many times as you like!)
Information Files for EU compliance
Workshop 3: Safety Calculations & Evaluations: Those involved in safety
calculations and evaluations to EU compliance requirements

25
V2