1970-1981 - Volkswagen - Beetle - 4 Cylinders 1.6L MFI OHV - 31358701

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General Information And Maintenance

Volkswagen Air-Cooled 1970-1981 Repair Guide

Do's
See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 Print

Fig. Fig. 1: Screwdrivers should be kept in good condition to prevent injury or damage which could result if the blade slips from the
screw
Fig. Fig. 2: Power tools should always be properly grounded

Fig. Fig. 3: Using the correct size wrench will help prevent the possibility of rounding off a nut
Fig. Fig. 4: NEVER work under a vehicle unless it is supported using safety stands (jackstands)

Do keep a fire extinguisher and first aid kit handy.


Do wear safety glasses or goggles when cutting, drilling, grinding or prying, even if you have 20-20 vision. If you wear glasses for the sake of vision,
wear safety goggles over your regular glasses.
Do shield your eyes whenever you work around the battery. Batteries contain sulfuric acid. In case of contact with the eyes or skin, flush the area
with water or a mixture of water and baking soda, then seek immediate medical attention.
Do use safety stands (jackstands) for any undervehicle service. Jacks are for raising vehicles; jackstands are for making sure the vehicle stays
raised until you want it to come down. Whenever the vehicle is raised, block the wheels remaining on the ground and set the parking brake.
Do use adequate ventilation when working with any chemicals or hazardous materials. Like carbon monoxide, the asbestos dust resulting from
some brake lining wear can be hazardous in sufficient quantities.
Do disconnect the negative battery cable when working on the electrical system. The secondary ignition system contains EXTREMELY HIGH
VOLTAGE. In some cases it can even exceed 50,000 volts.
Do follow manufacturer's directions whenever working with potentially hazardous materials. Most chemicals and fluids are poisonous if taken
internally.
Do properly maintain your tools. Loose hammerheads, mushroomed punches and chisels, frayed or poorly grounded electrical cords, excessively
worn screwdrivers, spread wrenches (open end), cracked sockets, slipping ratchets, or faulty droplight sockets can cause accidents.
Likewise, keep your tools clean; a greasy wrench can slip off a bolt head, ruining the bolt and often harming your knuckles in the process.
Do use the proper size and type of tool for the job at hand. Do select a wrench or socket that fits the nut or bolt. The wrench or socket should sit
straight, not cocked.
Do, when possible, pull on a wrench handle rather than push on it, and adjust your stance to prevent a fall.
Do be sure that adjustable wrenches are tightly closed on the nut or bolt and pulled so that the force is on the side of the fixed jaw.
Do strike squarely with a hammer; avoid glancing blows.
Do set the parking brake and block the drive wheels if the work requires a running engine.

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Volkswagen Air-Cooled 1970-1981 Repair Guide

Don'ts
Print

Don't run the engine in a garage or anywhere else without proper ventilation-EVER! Carbon monoxide is poisonous; it takes a long time to leave the
human body and you can build up a deadly supply of it in your system by simply breathing in a little every day. You may not realize you are slowly
poisoning yourself. Always use power vents, windows, fans and/or open the garage door.
Don't work around moving parts while wearing loose clothing. Short sleeves are much safer than long, loose sleeves. Hard-toed shoes with
neoprene soles protect your toes and give a better grip on slippery surfaces. Jewelry such as watches, fancy belt buckles, beads or body adornment of
any kind is not safe working around a vehicle. Long hair should be tied back under a hat or cap.
Don't use pockets for toolboxes. A fall or bump can drive a screwdriver deep into your body. Even a rag hanging from your back pocket can wrap
around a spinning shaft or fan.
Don't smoke when working around gasoline, cleaning solvent or other flammable material.
Don't smoke when working around the battery. When the battery is being charged, it gives off explosive hydrogen gas.
Don't use gasoline to wash your hands; there are excellent soaps available. Gasoline contains dangerous additives which can enter the body
through a cut or through your pores. Gasoline also removes all the natural oils from the skin so that bone dry hands will suck up oil and grease.
Don't service the air conditioning system unless you are equipped with the necessary tools and training. When liquid or compressed gas refrigerant
is released to atmospheric pressure it will absorb heat from whatever it contacts. This will chill or freeze anything it touches. Although refrigerant is
normally non-toxic,[qlR-12 becomes a deadly poisonous gas in the presence of an open flame. One good whiff of the vapors from burning refrigerant
can be fatal.
Don't use screwdrivers for anything other than driving screws! A screwdriver used as an prying tool can snap when you least expect it, causing
injuries. At the very least, you'll ruin a good screwdriver.
Don't use a bumper or emergency jack (that little ratchet, scissors, or pantograph jack supplied with the vehicle) for anything other than changing a
flat! These jacks are only intended for emergency use out on the road; they are NOT designed as a maintenance tool. If you are serious about
1
maintaining your vehicle yourself, invest in a hydraulic floor jack of at least a 1 / 2 ton capacity, and at least two sturdy jackstands.

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Volkswagen Air-Cooled 1970-1981 Repair Guide

SERVICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY


It is virtually impossible to anticipate all of the hazards involved with automotive maintenance and service, but care and common sense will Print
prevent most accidents.

The rules of safety for mechanics range from "don't smoke around gasoline," to "use the proper tool(s) for the job." The trick to avoiding injuries is to
develop safe work habits and to take every possible precaution.

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Tune-up

Volkswagen Air-Cooled 1970-1981 Repair Guide

TUNE-UP
See Figures 1 and 2 Print

Fig. Fig. 1: Tune-Up Specifications

Fig. Fig. 2: Tune-UP Specifications (Cont.)

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Engine And Engine Overhaul

Volkswagen Air-Cooled 1970-1981 Repair Guide


Battery
Print

Fig. Fig. 1: The battery is located under the rear bench seat. The rear seat lifts up and can be removed from the car.

The electrical system of the Volkswagen is a negative grounded type. All models except the 1975 and later Type 2 use a 45 amp battery. The 1975 and
later Type 2 uses a 54 amp battery. On Type 1 and Type 3 VW models, the battery is located under the right-hand side of the rear seat. On Karmann Ghias
and Type 2 models through 1979, the battery is located in the engine compartment. On 1980-81 Type 2s (Vanagon), it is located under the passenger's
seat. On Type 4 models, the battery is beneath the driver's seat. On Type 2 Campmobiles equipped with a refrigerator, an additional 45 amp battery is
available.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures 2 through 5

Fig. Fig. 2: Loosen the negative battery cable terminal nut . . .


Fig. Fig. 3: . . . and lift the cable off of the battery terminal

Fig. Fig. 4: The battery must have a shield for the positive terminal, as the rear seat could catch on fire if the terminals contact the
metal seat frame
Fig. Fig. 5: If the battery is to be replaced, remove the hold-down nut and lift the hold-down up and off its mounting stud

Fig. Fig. 5: If the battery is to be replaced, remove the hold-down nut and lift the hold-down up and off its mounting stud

Fig. Fig. 5: If the battery is to be replaced, remove the hold-down nut and lift the hold-down up and off its mounting stud

1. Disconnect the battery cables. Note the position of the battery cables for installation. The small diameter battery post is the negative terminal. The
negative battery cable is usually black.
2. Undo the battery hold-down strap and lift the battery out of its holder.

CAUTION
Do not tilt the battery as acid will spill out.

3. Install the battery in its holder and replace the clamp. Reconnect the battery cables.

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Volkswagen Air-Cooled 1970-1981 Repair Guide

Battery, Starting and Charging Systems


BASIC OPERATING PRINCIPLES Battery Print

The battery is the first link in the chain of mechanisms


which work together to provide cranking of the automobile engine. In most modern vehicles, the battery is a lead/acid electrochemical device consisting
of six 2v subsections (cells) connected in series so the unit is capable of producing approximately 12v of electrical pressure. Each subsection consists of a
series of positive and negative plates held a short distance apart in a solution of sulfuric acid and water.

The two types of plates are of dissimilar metals. This sets-up a chemical reaction, and it is this reaction which produces current flow from the battery
when its positive and negative terminals are connected to an electrical accessory such as a lamp or motor. The continued transfer of electrons would
eventually convert the sulfuric acid to water, and make the two plates identical in chemical composition. As electrical energy is removed from the
battery, its voltage output tends to drop. Thus, measuring battery voltage and battery electrolyte composition are two ways of checking the ability of the
unit to supply power. During engine cranking, electrical energy is removed from the battery. However, if the charging circuit is in good condition and the
operating conditions are normal, the power removed from the battery will be replaced by the alternator which will force electrons back through the
battery, reversing the normal flow, and restoring the battery to its original chemical state.

Starting System

The battery and starting motor are linked by very heavy electrical cables designed to minimize resistance to the flow of current. Generally, the major
power supply cable that leaves the battery goes directly to the starter, while other electrical system needs are supplied by a smaller cable. During starter
operation, power flows from the battery to the starter and is grounded through the vehicle's frame/body or engine and the battery's negative ground
strap.

The starter is a specially designed, direct current electric motor capable of producing a great amount of power for its size. One thing that allows the
motor to produce a great deal of power is its tremendous rotating speed. It drives the engine through a tiny pinion gear (attached to the starter's
armature), which drives the very large flywheel ring gear at a greatly reduced speed. Another factor allowing it to produce so much power is that only
intermittent operation is required of it. Thus, little allowance for air circulation is necessary, and the windings can be built into a very small space.

The starter solenoid is a magnetic device which employs the small current supplied by the start circuit of the ignition switch. This magnetic action moves
a plunger which mechanically engages the starter and closes the heavy switch connecting it to the battery. The starting switch circuit usually consists of
the starting switch contained within the ignition switch, a neutral safety switch or clutch pedal switch, and the wiring necessary to connect these in series
with the starter solenoid or relay.

The pinion, a small gear, is mounted to a one way drive clutch. This clutch is splined to the starter armature shaft. When the ignition switch is moved to
the START position, the solenoid plunger slides the pinion toward the flywheel ring gear via a collar and spring. If the teeth on the pinion and flywheel
match properly, the pinion will engage the flywheel immediately. If the gear teeth butt one another, the spring will be compressed and will force the
gears to mesh as soon as the starter turns far enough to allow them to do so. As the solenoid plunger reaches the end of its travel, it closes the contacts
that connect the battery and starter, then the engine is cranked.

As soon as the engine starts, the flywheel ring gear begins turning fast enough to drive the pinion at an extremely high rate of speed. At this point, the
one-way clutch begins allowing the pinion to spin faster than the starter shaft so that the starter will not operate at excessive speed. When the ignition
switch is released from the starter position, the solenoid is de-energized, and a spring pulls the gear out of mesh interrupting the current flow to the
starter.

Some starters employ a separate relay, mounted away from the starter, to switch the motor and solenoid current on and off. The relay replaces the
solenoid electrical switch, but does not eliminate the need for a solenoid mounted on the starter used to mechanically engage the starter drive gears.
The relay is used to reduce the amount of current the starting switch must carry.

Charging System

The automobile charging system provides electrical power for operation of the vehicle's ignition system, starting system and all electrical accessories.
The battery serves as an electrical surge or storage tank, storing (in chemical form) the energy originally produced by the engine driven generator. The
system also provides a means of regulating output to protect the battery from being overcharged and to avoid excessive voltage to the accessories.

The storage battery is a chemical device incorporating parallel lead plates in a tank containing a sulfuric acid/water solution. Adjacent plates are slightly
dissimilar, and the chemical reaction of the two dissimilar plates produces electrical energy when the battery is connected to a load such as the starter
motor. The chemical reaction is reversible, so that when the generator is producing a voltage (electrical pressure) greater than that produced by the
battery, electricity is forced into the battery, and the battery is returned to its fully charged state.

Newer automobiles use alternating current generators or alternators, because they are more efficient, can be rotated at higher speeds, and have fewer
brush problems. In an alternator, the field usually rotates while all the current produced passes only through the stator winding. The brushes bear against
continuous slip rings. This causes the current produced to periodically reverse the direction of its flow. Diodes (electrical one way valves) block the flow of
current from traveling in the wrong direction. A series of diodes is wired together to permit the alternating flow of the stator to be rectified back to 12
volts DC for use by the vehicle's electrical system.

The voltage regulating function is performed by a regulator. The regulator is often built in to the alternator; this system is termed an integrated or
internal regulator.

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Volkswagen Air-Cooled 1970-1981 Repair Guide

Distributor
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

See Figures 1 through 9


Fig. Fig. 1: To remove the distributor, label the distributor cap terminals . . .

Fig. Fig. 2: . . . and detach the spark plug wires from the cap
Fig. Fig. 3: Unfasten the retaining clamps, then lift the distributor cap off of the distributor housing

Fig. Fig. 4: Position the engine at Top Dead Center (TDC) by turning it until the timing marks align and the distributor rotor points
toward the No. 1 terminal position on the cap

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