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OF FOOD
Red meat
Meat has played a central role in human nutrition for
at least 2 million years. In the modern world, meat—
especially red meat—has accounted for an increasingly
high proportion of our diet, with consequences for
obesity, cardiovascular health, and cancer rates.
Myoglobin and
cytochromes
Muscle fiber
Muscle fiber
In muscles that are constantly
at work—such as leg muscles—
there are lots of myoglobin and
cytochromes, which provide
the muscle fibers with all the
oxygen and energy,
respectively, that they need
to function.
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TYPES OF FOOD
Red meat
68 69
Red meat and nutrition
Red meat is a complete protein source, providing all of the
essential amino acids that our bodies cannot create. It is also a rich
source of iron and B vitamins. Significant health concerns remain,
however. The red meat we consume tends to be high in fat—the
higher the fat content, the greater the flavor and tenderness of the
meat.
FATTY
Higher fat content means a greater number of calories, more ACIDS
saturated fats, and the health risks associated with them.
U Enzyme breaks
fats down
to fatty
acids
AMINO
ACIDS
The body needs iron to We need the amino acids
make oxygen-carrying provided by meat to construct
hemoglobin in the blood, the proteins that make up our
as well as cells, including
their membranes and all Enzyme breaks Enzyme breaks
myoglobin in
the cell machinery. proteins down glycogen down
our own
to amino to glucose
muscles.
acids
Hanging meat
Meat should be
hung after
slaughtering to
prevent excessive
toughness. Meat cut
immediately on
slaughtering will be
very tender, but
within hours
muscles contract
irreversibly. To
minimize these
effects, carcasses
are hung in
such a way that the
muscles are
stretched by
gravity. Longer
hanging periods
(such as a week)
allow enzymes in
the meat’s own
muscles to get to
work tenderizing
and producing
flavors.
White meat
White meats include chicken, turkey, duck, and pigeon—
some definitions include veal, piglet, rabbit, certain
game birds, and frog. The different function and
physiology of white meat gives it unique characteristics
of flavor and nutritional value, which in turn have
led to an explosion in global production and
consumption of poultry.
UPSIDE-DOWN ROASTING
In Western cultures, there is a chef’s trick
Fat from back
to roasting chickens and turkeys—place drips into meat
them breast-down in the oven. This is Muscle fiber
because most of the bird’s fat is Light meat
located on its back, so when White muscle cells do not need as
placed upside down and rich a bloody supply as red muscle
cells, so they contain less oxygen-
cooked, the fat trickles into the
carrying red pigments—making
bird’s meat—providing a rich white meat lighter in color.
flavor and moist texture. If
cooked breast upward, the
flavorsome fat just pools at the
bottom of the pan and is wasted! HEAT
TYPES OF FOOD
White meat
70 71
Pasture-raised or caged chickens?
Nutritionists argue that there is a nutritional difference
between hens raised inside in cages and those allowed
to roam and feed outside in pastures. Pasture-raised
chickens have a different diet, a more active foraging
strategy, and lower stress levels than caged, barn-
raised, or free-range chickens (see pp.232–33). There is
evidence that this not only improves the amount of
essential fatty acids and vitamins in the meat, but also
reduces the levels of unhealthy fatty acids.
Nutritional differences
According to a study KEY IN THE US,
comparing pasture-raised and
caged chicken, the pasture-
Caged chickens TURKEY
raised poultry had less
omega-6 fatty acids and
Pasture-raised CONSUMPTION
chickens
more beneficial omega-3
(especially when fed on
HAS DOUBLED IN
soybeans), less fat overall THE PAST 25
(including saturated fat), and
much more vitamin E. YEARS
Muscle
Taste and texture
Each cut encompasses a different set of muscles on the
animal. The guiding principle behind evaluating different Fatty meat CHUCK STEAK
cuts of meat is that more active muscles (such as those
found on the legs) have thicker fibers and more
connective tissue, and so will have tougher
and chewier meat. More active muscle will
also have more fat, however, and so may Fattier cuts of meat can benefit from slow cooking
to render down their fat. Globules of fat are
be more flavorsome. Butchers divide most scattered in-between muscle fibers that would
animals into a broadly similar set of cuts, have provided the muscle with energy (see
with the same terminology applying to p.68).
cows, sheep, goats, and pigs—the
French have the most types of cut
when it comes to beef.
CHUCK
CHEEK NECK
TONGUE
Connective
tissue RIB EYE
Tough meat
takes longer
to become
tender
RIBS
BRISKET
BRISKET
BRAISING Muscle
fiber
BRISKET MEAT
Tough meat
Cuts from the breast, such as brisket, have higher
levels of connective tissue that supported much
of the animal’s weight when it was alive. Brisket
is cooked for longer and often in liquid to
dissolve
the connective tissue and make the meat less tough.
TYPES OF FOOD
Cuts of meat
72 73
Muscle fiber
OFFAL
Lean tender
meat can be Offal (the internal organs of an animal, not including
cooked in a muscle or bone) comes in many forms, and each
shorter time organ has its own distinctive flavor and texture. Offal
generally has more connective tissue and tends to
need slow, thorough cooking; livers are a popular
exception. A lot of offal and organ meat has high
levels of nutrients and essential fatty acids, and
low levels of harmful fat. For instance, liver and
kidney can be particularly high in iron and folate
FRYING (vitamin B9).
RUMP
4 HOURS IS
THE MAXIMUM TIME IT CAN
5
TAKE TO COOK PIGS’ FEET—AFTER
WHICH EVEN THE BONE IS
EDIBLE
FLANK
WHY CAN’T WE
EAT RAW
MEAT?
LEG
It is thought that our teeth
and stomachs evolved to be
better at digesting the more
easily available nutrients in
safer, cooked meat, but we
are able to eat very fresh
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Processed meats Grinding
Surfaces are the risk zones
Since ancient times, meat has been processed to for meat contamination, and
extend its lifespan and to add flavors and aromas that grinding radically increases
meat’s surface area. Producers
can only be produced through the unique biochemical therefore ensure any
bacteria are killed by
processes involved—resulting in a wide range of blanching the meat (very
products. briefly heating and cooling it)
before grinding.
THERE IS A 42 PER-
CENT HIGHER RISK
OF DEVELOPING
HEART DISEASE FOR
GROUND MEAT
EVERY HOT DOG
YOU EAT PER DAY
High-pressure
water blasts meat
off bone
Different parts
of meat in
sausage
results in
mottled color Solution injected
into bacon
Meat flecks Different parts of meat results
pressed
together into ham slices in ham’s patchy color
Starter culture
of fungi added
Mycoprotein
5 grows
For about six weeks the
mycoprotein continues to
cycle around the fermenter
Cooling down
and grow. Eventually, it 4 The rapid growth of the
collects in a chamber
and is then harvested. fungus, and its constant metabolism,
generate lots of heat. Coils of cooling
water help to maintain the
optimum temperature for fungal
growth.
Oxygen Nitrogen
the use of I
HEAT TREATMENT D N
Using meat substitutes other R G
Although meat substitutes might protein Y
I
seem like a modern trend related to sources
N
health benefits, they have actually such as G
been popular since ancient times nuts, and,
through cultural and religious as shown A
here, the N
prohibitions against meat. For
D
example, tofu was created in ancient controlle Finishe
6 d
China by vegetarian Buddhists. Today d growth C produc
the primary sources of meat of H ts
substitute are soy-based products, mycoprote I Harvest
ins from L ed
gluten-based products from grains, L mycoprotein
fungi.
is heated to neutralize harmful substances, spun
in a centrifuge to dry, and is then chilled. The
mixture is also treated to make it more closely
resemble muscle
fibers, flavored, and shaped into meatlike
products, such as sausages or slices.
SAUSAGE
HARVESTE SLICES
D
MYCOPROTEIN
TYPES OF FOOD
Meat substitutes
76 77
SOYBEANS
IS
MYCOPROTEIN
VEGAN?
Although pure mycoprotein
probably would be vegan,
most marketed products
are not because they use
egg white as a binder and
milk ingredients during
processing.
0
OMEGA 3 FATS (PERCENTAGE BY WEIGHT)
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0 1.0
2.5
1.6 1.6
2.0 2.1
TROUT
BLUEFIN TUNA
MACKEREL
SALMON
HERRING
Oily fish
One of the richest known sources
of vital omega-3 fats, oily fish have
oil throughout their tissues and 184 BILLION TONS
more oil overall than white fish.
They tend to be warmer-water TOTAL GLOBAL FISH
species or more active fish, such
as trout, tuna, and salmon. PRODUCTION IN
2014
Oily fish and white SASHIMI
fish
Fish are high in protein, rich in nutrients such as iodine, calcium, and
B and D vitamins, and low in cholesterol. Fish are often divided into oily Fish sashimi, thin slices of raw fish
(or fatty) and white fish. Oily fish have more fat than white fish and are prepared Japanese-style, is popular
particularly rich in omega-3 fatty acids (see pp.28–29), notably EPA and worldwide. However, because the
DHA. These two omega-3s can be made in the human body from fish is raw, there is the risk that it
another omega-3, alpha linolenic acid (ALA), but only in small amounts may be contaminated with
—so EPA and DHA are best obtained from the diet. White fish have less parasites or microbes, and the fish
must therefore come from
fat than oily fish. They also contain omega-3s, but less than oily fish.
high-grade sources and be
prepared carefully.
Fish
The largest single source of wild food in the human
diet as well as the product of a rapidly growing
branch of farming, fish are a source of important
nutrients such as protein and omega-3 fatty acids.
TYPES OF FOOD
Fish
78 79
0
0.5
1.0
0.2 0.3
0.6 1.5
0.4 0.5
2.0
HALIBUT
CATFISH
SNAPPER
FLOUNDER
COD
2.5
KEY
Fat under skin Fat between
Oily fish
muscle blocks
White fish High
fat Dark
Omega-3 fats (% by weight)
concentration muscle Where’s the fat?
in dark In fish, fat is generally stored
muscle White in thin layers under the
White fish muscle skin and between muscle
White fish have less oil and omega-3s than Spine blocks. It is also present in
oily fish, and the oil tends to be concentrated strips of dark muscle that
in the liver rather than throughout their body Gut cavity run along the body. These
tissues. White fish include all flatfish, such strips are larger and fattier
as halibut and flounder, as well as some White in oily fish and smaller and
cold-water muscle less fatty
ocean fish, such as cod, monkfish, and mullet. OILY FISH WHITE FISH in white fish.
Concentration of toxins
The ocean is the ultimate
repository of much of the pollution MERCURY
generated by natural and Volcano
manmade sources. Pollutants that Mine
are not readily broken down Factory
naturally, such as mercury, heavy
FOOD CHAIN HEAVY
metals, and persistent organic
METALS
pollutants (POPs, see pp.202–03),
may be present in low levels in
small prey animals but
accumulate through the food chain, Large
Tuna Mackerel
shark
becoming concentrated in top Krill
predators, such as sharks.
APHRODISIACS
Raw oysters have a historic ABOUT ONE-THIRD
reputation as an aphrodisiac, and
20% there is some evidence that OF THE WARM-WATER
this reputation may be justified. SHRIMP HARVEST
They are high in zinc, which
aids male fertility, and have IS FARMED RATHER
also been found to contain
amino acids that can trigger the
THAN FROM
release of sex hormones in men WILD STOCKS
15% and women.
PERCENTAGE OF FAT, BY WEIGHT
SQUID
SCALLOP CRAB
SHRIMP
0
10% 15% 20%
PERCENTAGE OF PROTEIN, BY WEIGHT
TYPES OF FOOD
Shellfish
80 81
When to eat shellfish
Many types of shellfish are best KEY
avoided at certain times of the year, Safe
Toxic algae Nontoxic
for a number of reasons. First, many algae Dangerous
species breed in the summer and
expend their energy reserves during Seasonal toxicity
this period, becoming meager and The summer months
High levels of Lower levels
are often the worst
less tasty. Second, summer is also algal toxins of algal toxins
for toxic blooms of
the period when toxin levels are algae and for harmful
highest. The best period for eating microorganisms,
many shellfish is during the winter which proliferate in
warmer waters and
months, when they are fattening up in can accumulate in
preparation for the breeding season filter feeders, such
as many mollusks
and when toxin levels are low. SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER and crustaceans.
Shellfish poisoning
Many shellfish feed by filtering
out food particles from the
Lamb has a high water. However, they also trap
LAMB percentage of fat in
relation to protein
toxins and microbes, which may
build up and, if enough
contaminated shellfish are
eaten, may cause poisoning. The
toxins are not destroyed by
cooking. Symptoms of the main
BEEF types of shellfish poisoning are
outlined below.
CHICKEN
Paralytic shellfish poisoning
Numbness and tingling, loss
of coordination, difficulty
speaking, nausea, vomiting.
May be fatal.
Neurotoxic shellfish
poisoning Nausea, vomiting,
slurred speech. No known
fatalities.
OCTOPUS
LOBSTER
EGGS AS EMULSIFIERS
POTASSIUM
Emulsifiers blend substances that are unmixable, such as
IRON
oil and water. The result is an emulsion—tiny droplets of
one substance suspended in the other. Egg proteins VITAMIN E
can create emulsions useful in cooking, such as
mayonnaise, which is an emulsion of oil in vinegar or
lemon juice.
MAYONNAISE
Water-loving PROTEIN
IN CLOSE-UP
part of egg
Vinegar protein
Oil faces the
Oil-loving part of egg protein water-based
surrounds and fluid outside
isolates a tiny droplet
TYPES OF FOOD
Eggs
82 83
17
Cooking eggs
Eggs are versatile cooking
ingredients, but the quality of an
egg diminishes over time, partly
because the shell is highly porous,
allowing moisture to escape. As an Curled
THE NUMBER OF
9
egg dehydrates, it becomes more protein
alkaline, which makes the egg EGGS PER PERSON
white runnier and the membrane
around the yolk weaker. Freshness,
In a raw, unbeaten egg, the protein chains
are folded and curled up, enabling
AVAILABLE FOR
therefore, is essential in making them to remain separate,
self- contained units
CONSUMPTION
the best fried and poached eggs.
Eggs have proteins that harden
suspended GLOBALLY
in water; the
when heated or beaten, resulting in egg remains IN 2014
a range of useful cooking effects. liquid.
N G
Trapped air
bubble
Uncurled
Uncurled Air bubble
protein with
protein expands
cross-links
A BAD REPUTATION
WHAT’S THE In recent years, eggs have experienced
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN bad press, but most concerns are
WHITE AND BROWN unfounded. For instance, egg yolk is
high in cholesterol, but contrary to what
EGGS?
scientists once thought, dietary
The color of a chicken egg cholesterol does not greatly affect blood
cholesterol levels. Salmonella
in no way reflects contamination, which has hit the headlines
differences in taste or in some countries, is in fact the main risk in
nutritional value. It is eating eggs, but the risk is now very low
thanks to hen vaccination.
merely determined by the Vulnerable people (such as the elderly)
breed of the hen that can further lower the risk of becoming ill by
produced it. cooking or pasteurization of their eggs.