Reading The ON/OFF Flashes of The Check Engine Light

In a nutshell, to get the trouble codes stored in your Car's fuel injection computer's memory, we need to
jumper together 2 specific terminals of the diagnostic link connector (DLC). Your car will then flash the
malfunction indicator light (MIL -also known as the check engine light CEL) and flash the trouble code to you.

These are the steps to retrieve the trouble codes:

1. Make sure your battery is fully charged before starting (it's customary to place a charger on the battery
while retrieving trouble codes to keep the battery from discharging).

2. Turn the key to the ON position but don't start the vehicle.

3. Jumper terminals TE1 and E1 of the diagnostic link connector that's located on the bottom left (driver-
side).

4. Count the number of flashes of the malfunction indicator light (MIL).

5. If no trouble codes are present:

 The MIL will flash continuously and evenly (see illustration below).

6. If trouble codes are present:

 The MIL will flash the trouble codes in a specific pattern.

 The digits of the trouble code will be flashed at about 1/2 (.5) second intervals. A 1 1/2 (1.5)
second pause will separate first and second digits of the code (see illustration above).

 If more than one trouble code is stored, a 2 1/2 (2.5) second pause will separate the next
flashed trouble code.

 Once all trouble codes are flashed. a 4 1/2 (4.5) second pause will occur. After this 4.5 second
pause, the trouble codes will be repeated.

 Trouble codes are flashed in order of smallest to largest number.

The first thing we need to do is to make sure that the igniter (ignition control module) is getting power.

The wire feeding the igniter with battery power is the white with red stripe (WHT/RED) wire of the igniter
harness connector.

The WHT/RED wire connects to the female terminal labeled with the number 3 in the image above.

IMPORTANT: Remember, it's important that you have verified that the ignition coil IS NOT sparking and that
it IS NOT getting the IGC signal.

Let's get started:

1. Connect the red multimeter test lead to the WHT/RED wire of the igniter's electrical connector. This
is the wire that connects to female terminal number 3 in the image above (of the igniter's harness
connector)

2. Connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery negative (-) terminal.

3. Have your helper turn the key to the ON position.

4. Your multimeter should read 10 to 12 Volts DC if the igniter is getting battery power.

Let's take a look at what your test results mean:

CASE 1: The igniter is getting 10 to 12 Volts DC. This is the correct and expected test result. The next step
is to make sure the igniter is getting Ground.

CASE 2: The igniter IS NOT getting battery power. This tells you that the igniter is not working due to a lack
of battery power.

Your next step is to find out why this battery power is missing and restore it. Once battery power is
restored, the igniter should function again.
TEST 2: Making Sure the Igniter Is Getting Ground

The igniter (ignition control module) gets Ground thru' its case.

So, in this test section, we're going to do a very simple multimeter voltage test to make sure the igniter is
Grounded.

Here are the test steps:

1. Check that the igniter is bolted securely to its metal bracket and that the metal bracket is bolted
securely to your Toyota's strut tower.

2. Connect the red multimeter test lead to the battery positive (+) post.

3. With the black multimeter test lead, touch the igniter's metal case.

4. Your multimeter should read 10 to 12 Volts DC if the igniter is Grounded.

Let's take a look at what your test results mean:

CASE 1: The igniter is getting Ground. This is the correct and expected test result. The next step is to make
sure the igniter is getting the IGT signals from the fuel injection computer.

CASE 2: The igniter IS NOT getting Ground. This tells you that the igniter is not working due to a lack of
chassis Ground.

Your next step is to make sure that the igniter is bolted securely to its location in the engine compartment.
You may also have to make sure that your Toyota Camry's chassis is Grounded to the battery negative (-)
terminal. Restoring Ground to the igniter's case will solve the 'no-spark no-start' condition.
TEST 3: Testing the Igniter Control Signal

The igniter control signal (IGT = igniter trigger signal), is the signal that tells it to start activating the ignition
coil. Without it, your car is not going to start due to a lack of spark.

The IGT signal comes from a fuel injection computer (PCM).

The PCM will only send this signal to the igniter after it receives the 2 camshaft signals from the distributor.

IMPORTANT: You'll need to use an automotive LED light with a built-in resistor. A 12 Volt test light will not
work and can damage the igniter.

IMPORTANT: The Igniter must remain connected to its electrical connector for this test to function. To
access the IGT signals inside the wire, you'll need to use either a back probe or a wiring piercing probe. You
can see an example of a wiring piercing probe here:

These are the test steps:

1. Connect the red LED wire to the WHT wire of the igniter's electrical connector. This is the wire that
connects to terminal number 2 in the image above (of the igniter's harness connector).
NOTE: The igniter must remain connected to its electrical connector.

2. Connect the black LED wire to the battery negative (-) terminal.

3. After the LED light is set up, have your helper crank the engine as you observe the LED light.

4. The LED light should flash ON and OFF in steady pulses as the engine is cranking if the IGT signal is
present.

Let's take a look at what your test results mean:

CASE 1: The LED light flashed as the engine was cranked. This is the correct and expected test result and
tells you that the igniter is getting the IGT control signal from the fuel injection computer.

CASE 2: The LED light DID NOT flash when you cranked the engine. This tells you that the igniter is not
activating the ignition coils due to a lack of the IGT control signal.

The most common reason the IGT signal is missing is a defective camshaft position sensor.
TEST 4: Testing Camshaft Position Sensor 1

In this test section we're going to test camshaft position (CMP) sensor 1 inside the distributor by
measuring the A/C voltage it produces, as we crank the engine, with a multimeter.

If you have an oscilloscope, then in photo 2 of 2 (in the image viewer above), you'll find the waveforms for
both CMP sensors. The oscilloscope settings that I used were: Time/DIV 100ms, Volt/DIV: 2 Volts,
Attenuation: 1X.

IMPORTANT: This test is done on the distributor's 4 pin connector. You'll need to use a test lead with
insulated crocodile tips to attach your multimeter to the male spade terminals indicated in the test steps
below.

These are the test steps:

1. Disconnect distributor 4 pin connector from its 4-wire connector.

2. Connect one multimeter test lead to terminal #1 of the distributor connector.

3. Connect one multimeter test lead to terminal #2 of the distributor connector.

4. Place your multimeter in Volts AC mode.

5. Have your helper crank the engine once you have set up the multimeter test leads.

6. Your multimeter should register a reading that should oscillate between 0 and 0.2 Volts AC as the
engine turns if the camshaft position sensor is functioning.

Let's take a look at what your test results mean:

CASE 1: The CMP sensor produced the indicated AC Voltage. This is the correct and expected test result
and tells you that CMP sensor 1 is OK.

CASE 2: The CMP sensor DID NOT produce the indicated AC Voltage. This tells you that the camshaft
position sensor is defective.

This lack of CMP 1 signal will keep the PCM from activating the igniter. In turn, the igniter won't activate the
ignition coil. Replace the distributor (since the CMP sensors are not sold separately).
TEST 5: Testing Camshaft Position Sensor 2

In this test section we're going to test camshaft position (CMP) sensor 2 inside the distributor by
measuring the A/C voltage it produces as we crank the engine.

If you have an oscilloscope, then in photo 2 of 2 (in the image viewer above), you'll find the waveforms for
both CMP sensors. The oscilloscope settings that I used were: Time/DIV 100ms, Volt/DIV: 2 Volts,
Attenuation: 1X.

IMPORTANT: This test is done on the distributor's 4 pin connector. You'll need to use a test lead with
insulated crocodile tips to attach your multimeter to the male spade terminals indicated in the test steps
below.

These are the test steps:

1. Disconnect distributor 4 pin connector from its 4-wire connector.

2. Connect one multimeter test lead to terminal #3 of the distributor connector.

3. Connect one multimeter test lead to terminal #4 of the distributor connector.

4. Place your multimeter in Volts AC mode.

5. Have your helper crank your engine once you have set up the multimeter test leads.

6. Your multimeter should register between 0.2 to 0.4 Volts AC as the engine turns if the camshaft
position sensor is functioning.

Let's take a look at what your test results mean:

CASE 1: The CMP sensor produced the indicated AC Voltage. This is the correct and expected test result
and tells you that CMP sensor 2 is OK.

CASE 2: The CMP sensor DID NOT produce the indicated AC Voltage. This tells you that the camshaft
position sensor is defective.

This lack of CMP 2 signal will keep the PCM from activating the igniter. Replace the distributor (since the
CMP sensors are not sold separately).

You can conclude that the igniter is defective and needs to be replaced if you have:

 Make sure the ignition coil is not sparking and not getting the IGC signal from the igniter.
 Make sure the igniter has power (TEST 1).

 Make sure the igniter has Ground (TEST 2).

 Make sure the igniter is getting the IGT signal from the fuel injection computer (TEST 3).

 Make sure the camshaft position sensors are creating their signals (TEST 4 and TEST 5).