Workshop Manual AL-KO PDF

Workshop Manual
Chapter 1
Towball couplings
Workshop Manual
Chapter 2
Overrun Devices
Workshop Manual
Chapter 3
Axles and Brakes
Workshop Manual
Chapter 4
Height Adjustable Overrun
Devices and Hitches
Workshop Manual
Chapter 5
Safety Winches
Workshop Manual
Chapter 6
Accessories
Workshop Manual
Chapter 7
Tools and Lubricants
Workshop Manual
AL-KO Kober Limited

South Warwickshire Business Park
Kineton Road
Southam
Warwickshire
CV47 0AL
Tel: 01926 818500

Fax: 01926 818562
www.al-ko.co.uk
copyright of AL-KO Kober Limited
October 2001
To the User…. This manual is intended for everyone who
maintains and repairs caravans/trailers with
AL-KO components.
The individual chapters give an overview of

the construction, maintenance and repair of
AL-KO trailer components and enable
maintenance personnel to carry out repairs
quickly and efficiently.
Conventions used in the description
Lists always begin with a dash (-) or a number

which corresponds to the item number in the
associated graphic.
Example:
1 Handbrake system
or
- Handbrake system (1)
Instructions for operations always begin with a

bullet (). Here, the reader is asked to carry
out work.
Example:
• Take out spring clip (3).
“Note” applies to special technical

requirements which maintenance personnel
must particularly observe (e.g. particular
points when assembling, tolerance range
when adjusting).
“Caution” is used to mark working procedures

which must be followed precisely to avoid
personnel being injured or components
damaged.
This manual consists of seven chapters in
which the construction, maintenance and
repair of trailer components are explained and
shown:
Chapter 1 “Towball couplings”
Chapter 2 “Overrun devices”
Chapter 3 “Axles and brakes”
Chapter 4 “Variable height overrun device

with towing hitch”
Chapter 5 “Safety winches”
Chapter 6 “Accessories”
Chapter 7 “Tools and lubricants”

1 Towball couplings
1.1 Function and construction of
the towball couplings
1.1.1 Function
The coupling is the connecting link

between the towing vehicle and trailer/
caravan.
For this task, all components of the towball
coupling must be in perfect condition from
a technical point of view.
1.1.2 Construction
Components:
AK 7 / 10/2 / 252
1 Housing
2 Safe coupling indicator
5 Coupling handle
AK 35
1 Housing
5 Coupling handle
01-1
AK 26
1 Housing
5 Coupling handle
AK 160 / 300 / 350
1 Housing
3 Wear indicator
5 Coupling handle
AKS 1300
1 Housing
3 Wear indicator
5 Coupling handle
6 Stabiliser lever
7 Friction pads
01-2
AKS 2000/2500/2700
1 Housing
4 Wear indicator
5 Coupling handle
6 Stabiliser lever
7 Friction pads
1.2 Maintenance
1.2.1 Checking the functions
General inspection
• Place the coupling onto the towball of the

towing vehicle and couple the trailer/
caravan
• Check that the coupling mechanism moves
freely
• Check the safe coupling indicator
• Check the wear indicator (if applicable)
• Check the coupling housing for damage
Safe coupling indicator
• Insert the test ball (1) (minimum diameter

49 mm) into the coupling
• The green area of the safe coupling
indicator (2) must be visible
Wear indicator
• Insert the test ball (1) (minimum diameter

49 mm) into the coupling
• The coupling handle of the AK 7 / 10/2 /
252 / 750 must not touch the rear section
of the housing
• The green area (1) of the wear indicator
must be visible on the AK 160 / 300 / 350
and AKS 1300.
01-3
• The marking “zu” [closed] (1) must be
visible on the AKS 2000/2500/2700.
The test ball and the ball of the

towing vehicle must have a diameter
of not less than 49 mm.
If the coupling or towball is

worn, it must be replaced immediately
as there is a danger of the trailer/
caravan caravan being uncoupled.
Friction pads on the AKS 1300
• Hitch up the coupling

• Turn the handwheel to the right until the
wheel ratchets
• The control mark (1) on the handwheel
must be visible
• If the control mark is no longer visible, the
friction pads are worn and need replacing
With older towing vehicles, the

ball may also be worn if the control
mark is no longer visible.
Friction pads on the AKS 2000/2500/2700

• Close the stabiliser lever until resistance is
felt
• The notch marking (1) on the pressure disc
must be between the notch markings (2
and 3) on the housing
• If the notch marking (1) on the pressure
disc has reached or gone past the rear
replacement mark (3) on the housing, the
friction pads are worn and need replacing
Testing the stabiliser lever on the AKS 1300

/ 2000/2500/2700

• Press the stabiliser lever (1) downwards
past the clearly felt resistance until the
friction pads are in contact and the lever
engages
Testing the handwheel on the AKS 1300

• Turn the handwheel (2) until the wheel
ratchets.
01-4
1.2.2 Operating notes (first time use)
Creaking noises on the AKS 1300 / 2000/

2500/2700
The friction pads of the AKS 1300 / 2000/2500

/2700 do not normally cause noise when
driving. If there is noise when driving, possible
causes may be:
• Drawbar running dry in the overrun bushes
− Grease using the grease nipple
− Grease the drawbar exposed
underneath the bellows
• Foreign objects or dirt between the friction
pad and towball
− Clean the towball
− Clean the friction pads with abrasive paper.
• In winter operation, the safe coupling
indicator has been sprayed with deicer.
− Clean the towball
− Clean the friction surfaces with abrasive
paper.
• The surface of the ball was not smooth
before first use
Towball of the towing vehicle for the AKS

1300/2000/2500/2700
• For the stabilising action, the towball must

be kept free of dirt and grease
• Dacromet-coated balls must be rubbed
down because of the lower friction which is
produced (abrasive paper)
The surface of the towball must be free
from scoring, rust and seizure marks
1.2.3 Lubrication
Lubrication intervals
Every 10,000 – 15,000 km or every 12

months, grease or oil the sliding and
swivelling points on the towball coupling.
• Components must be cleaned before oiling

or greasing
• Only a thin film of oil or grease must be
applied to the parts
01-5
Lubrication points
1 Grease the ball cup joint

2 Grease the joint of the coupling lever lock
3 Oil the safety indicator
4 Grease the contact surfaces of the ball cup
and the coupling lever lock
5 Grease the ball cup (not on the AKS 1300
or AKS 2000/2500/2700)
6 Lightly grease the friction pad bearings on
the AKS 1300 and AKS 2000/2500/2700
– no grease on the friction surface!
On the AKS 1300/AKS 2000/2500/2700

the inside of the ball cup (7) must not
be greased because of the friction
pads.
Lubricant type:
− Multi-purpose grease to DIN 51825 KTA 3K
− Teflon grease spray (see tools list)
1.3 Repair
1.3.1 Towball coupling
Coupling type details must not be painted over

or covered by additional parts.
Removing the coupling
• Pull the bellows (1) off the rear attachment

bolt (2) of the coupling (3)
• Unscrew the nuts (4) of the attachment
bolts (2)
• Drive out the rear attachment bolt (2) with
a 10 mm diameter retaining pin (length to
suit drawbar diameter)
• Leave the retaining pin pushed through the
drawbar and damper eye
• Drive out the front attachment bolt (2).
(Remember the spacer tube)
• Take off the coupling (3)
The retaining pin keeps the eye of

the damper in position.
With different types of overrun,

the damper is held in the drawbar with
spring pins instead of a coupling
01-6
Tightening torque values
The tightening torque values for grade 8.8

M12 bolts are indicated in the table
below.
The tightening torque for all

bolts on the AKS 2000/2500/2700
is 100 Nm.
Overrun device type Tightening torque
AL-KO 30 S 60 Nm
AL-KO 60 S – 60 S/3 60 Nm
AL-KO 90 S – 90 S/3 70 Nm
All other AL-KO overruns 86 Nm
Non-AL-KO overruns 77 Nm
Installing the coupling
• Insert the spacer tube into the drawbar

in line with the front attachment bolt
• Fit the coupling (1)
• Insert attachment bolts (2)
• Fit new self-locking nuts (3) and tighten
The screws and nuts on the AKS

2000/2500/2700 are to be tightened
to a torque of 100 Nm.
• Check that the damper operates by

moving the drawbar in and out
When inserting the rear

attachment bolt, the damper
eye retaining pin is driven out.
Always fit the horizontal bolts

through from the left side.
Do not re-use self-locking nuts.
01-7
Installing the AK 750 coupling
• Place the reinforcement plate of the

coupling on the shaft
• Place the towball coupling on the shaft and
position to suit the hole pattern
• Place the reinforcing plate on the coupling
shaft
• Insert the spacer tubes for the coach bolts
into the shaft
• Insert the coach bolts from above
• The square on the coach bolt engages in
the slot on the reinforcement plate
• Fit new self-locking nuts and tighten to 86
Nm
For stability, a distance piece

must be screwed on as well as the
reinforcement plate and spacer tubes.
Distance Pieces
The drawbar connections are designed for 50

mm. For smaller drawbar diameters, distance
pieces must be fitted. With the AKS 1300 /
2000/2500/2700, these are supplied as
standard. For other towball couplings, they
must be ordered separately.
There are also towball couplings

with smaller connection diameters.
Particulars of the three different distance

pieces can be found in the following table.
Drawbar Connection Distance piece

diam (mm) Thickness (mm) Item
50 Q - -
50/51 K - -
45/46 K 2.5 3
40 Q 5 1
35 Q 5 1
+2.5 +2
Q = horizontal fastenings (AL-KO overrun devices)

K = horizontal and vertical fastenings
01-8
Horizontal/vertical and horizontal
fastenings
The different drawbar connections of other

manufacturers require vertical fastenings as
well as horizontal fastenings.
With horizontal fastenings, the following

points must be observed:
• When inserting the bolts, thread them

through the spacer tube in the drawbar and
the damper (see overrun devices)
With horizontal and vertical fastenings, the

following points must be observed:
• Insert the vertical bolt (1) from above
• Engage the square on the vertical bolt in
the hole
• Fit the shaped washer (2) from underneath
• Fit new self-locking nuts (3) and tighten to
86 Nm
On the AKS 2000/2500/2700, tighten

the nuts on the horizontal fastenings to
a torque of 100 Nm. For the vertical
screw, see instructions given by the
overrun manufacturer.
The graphic opposite shows the connection

dimensions of the towball coupling.
− Drawbar diameter A
− Hole spacing B
− Hole spacing C
The data for the bolt fastenings are given in

the table below.
Drawbar Connection Hole spacing

diameter A (mm) B (mm) C (mm)
50 Q 50 11
35/40 Q 54 11
45/46 K 40 18
50/51 K 40 18
Q = horizontal fastenings (AL-KO overruns)

K = horizontal and vertical fastenings
01-9
Swivel angle
If the swivel angles are exceeded,

components are overloaded. This means that
correct operation is no longer assured. The
area above the coupling must be clear of
additional parts or parts of the vehicle.
The vertical swivel angle of +/- 25 degrees

must not be exceeded
• The horizontal swivel angle of +/- 20

degrees must not be exceeded
Removing the safe coupling indicator
The safe coupling indicator is

destroyed upon removal.
• Drive the stop of the safe coupling indicator
(1) inwards using a punch
• Remove the safe coupling indicator from
inside
Installing the safe coupling indicator
• Push the safe coupling indicator (1)

through the housing from inside, with the
pressure spring inserted
• Insert the test ball (1)

• Drive the stop pin (2) into the safe coupling
indicator, until it locks in it
01-10
1.3.2 AKS 1300 stabiliser
Removing friction pads and pressure

bearings
• Remove the friction pad retaining ring (1)
Take steps to avoid injury when

removing the retaining ring.
• Take out the friction pads (1) complete with

washers and pressure bearings
Installing friction pads and pressure

bearings
The friction pads must always be

replaced in pairs.
• The washers and pressure bearing must

be threaded onto the friction pad in the
order: thin washer (1), pressure bearing (2)
and thick washer (3)
• Insert the friction pad (1)
• Secure the friction pad with the retaining

ring (2)
Always use new retaining rings.
01-11
Removing the stabiliser lever
• Heat up the screw (1) with a hot air blower
• Unscrew and remove the screw

• Remove the friction pad
• Unscrew the stabiliser lever (2)
Installing the stabiliser lever
• Screw on the stabiliser lever (1)

• Open the stabiliser lever to the middle
position
• Clean the screw (2) and coat with Loctite

• Screw in the screw until it locks and then
back off by a quarter of turn (it must be
possible to move the lever).
• Install the friction pad
01-12
Removing the handwheel
• Remove the friction pad (1)

• Unscrew the handwheel (2)
Installing the handwheel
• Screw on the handwheel (1)

• Install the friction pad
Always use new retaining rings.
1.3.3 AKS 2000/2500/2700 stabiliser
Removing friction pads
• Take off protective caps (1)
• Press out the friction pads (2) inwards with

a punch
• Remove the friction pads from the
coupling, together with any shims (3) fitted
Friction pads must always be

replaced in pairs.
The friction pad shims must be

refitted in their original positions.
01-13
Installing friction pads
• Insert the new friction pads (1), with shims

fitted (if any), into the bearing from the
inside
• Press in the friction pad by hand, until it is

heard to engage

replaced in pairs.

refitted in their original positions
• Position the protective caps (2) and

press in
Removing the handle shells
• Loosen the Torx screw (1) and unscrew

• Take the two handle shells (2) off the
levers
Installing the handle shells
• Push the handle shell halves onto the

levers as far as they will go
• Engage the handle shell halves at the rear
first (snap fastening)
• Insert and tighten the Torx screw
In some cases the standard handle (1)

cannot be fitted. In these cases, the
replacement handle (2) is installed.
01-14
1.3.4 AKS 2000 Stabiliser
(pre 1994 models)
Removing friction pads
• Couple AKS 2000 to towing vehicle

(ensure visual indicator is green) - press
down coupling handle (1).

replaced in pairs.

refitted in their original positions
• The mark on the pressure plate (6) should

coincide with the markings on the housing
(10) or passes it.
• Remove screw (3) from stabiliser handle

• Punch out roll pins (4) with 2mm punch
• Open stabiliser lever until marks (9)

coincide with marks on housing (6)
• Rotate the adjusting bush with spanner

(SW 19) anticlockwise (5) until friction
lining (8) is in contact with the towball.
When the stabiliser lever reaches the

final position, the markings (6) must
conincide when resistance is felt.
Check wear condition of linings using

vernier callipers.
Dimension “X” above 1.0 mm:
Replace linings (see page 16)
Dimension “X” 1.0 mm or below:
Setting OK (Lining still has reserve)
If the friction linings are worn above

the limit, the towball could be
damaged.
• Drive in the safety pins (4) to the next

possible position.
Check alignment markings again

(6)
• Screw cross-screw (3) into the

stabiliser handle.
01-15
Replacing friction pads
If Dimension “X” is above 1.0 mm then:
• Uncouple AKS 2000
• With spanner, rotate adjusting bush anti-

clockwise until friction pad is released
• Feed in new pad making sure that groove

is lined up with the pin on the inside of
coupling head.
• Rotate adjusting bush clockwise until pad

is fully engaged and the shaft protrudes
through the adjusting bush
• Couple AKS 2000 to towing vehicle and

carry out ‘setting’ (see page 15).
01-16
Clearances
It is essential to comply with the following

particulars concerning clearances.
• The AKS 1300/2000/2500/2700 must only

be used with coupling balls to DIN 74058
(EC directive 94/20). This will provide the
stipulated swivel angle of +/- 25 degrees
• The AKS 1300 and AKS 2000 cannot be
used for rotating overrun devices above +/-
25 degrees
• The rear of the towing vehicle must have no
additional or projecting parts
The clearances required for the AKS 2000/

2500/2700 are shown in the graphic opposite.
− The distance (1) between the coupling

handle and the centre axis of the drawbar
must be at least 50 mm
− The distance (2) between the ball and the
rear of the towing vehicle must be at least
65 mm
− The distance (3) to the stabiliser lever must
be at least 440 mm
− Clearances in the handle areas must be at
least 25 mm in any operating conditions.
Various handle shells and bearing bolts for
the handbrake lever are available for these
cases
No components of the overrun device must be

located in the area behind the stabiliser handle
on the AKS 1300.
− The distance (1) must be at least 100 mm
− For the AKS 1300/2000/2500/2700 the

distance (1) between the centre of the ball
and the top of the cross member must be at
least 60 mm for the sideways swivel angle
of +/- 25 degrees.
The clearances required as per DIN 74058

impose the following limitations.
• Class A 50 – 1 coupling balls to DIN 74058

must not be used.
• Screw-in balls are only permitted if they
have positive locking.
• The AKS 1300 must not be used with a
reversing lock fitted on the left-hand side.
• No distance pieces must be used with the
AKS 1300
01-17
2 Overrun Devices 2.1 Function and construction of
the overrun device
2.1.1 Function
The overrun device (1) may be described as

the control unit for the overrun braking
system. Braking by the towing vehicle
generates a towbar force at the coupling point
(2). When the operating threshold is
exceeded, the drawbar (3) is pushed in.
This causes the wheel brakes (5) to operate
via the linkage system (4).
2.1.2 Construction
The overrun device consists of a number of

assemblies:
1 Handbrake system
2 Breakaway cable
3 Housing
4 Drawbar
5 Damper
6 Overrun lever in linkage system
7 Coupling head
2.2 Maintenance
Handbrake
• Pull the handbrake lever on and check that

it moves freely
• Check the condition of the gas strut.
• Check the condition of the overrun unit.
Jockey wheel and locking handle
• Check the wheel for damage

• Release the locking handle and check the
thread
• Move the jockey wheel up and down
• Tighten the locking handle
• Wind the jockey wheel up and down with
the crank.
Drawbar bearings
• Pull the drawbar out as far as the stop

• Press the drawbar up and down. With
square, delta and tubular overrun devices,
play must be not more than +/- 1.5 mm.
02-1
Overrun and coupling attachment bolts
• Check all attachment bolts of the overrun

device and coupling for tightness. (Ensure
the correct tightening torque)
Breakaway cable
• Check the ring of the breakaway cable on

the handbrake lever
• Check the condition of the cable guide
• Check the condition of the snap hook
• Check the condition of the cable
2.2.2 Lubrication
Grease or oil sliding and swivelling points of

the overrun device every 10,000 – 15,000 km
or 12 months.
Lubrication points
1 Grease the drawbar in the area of the

bellows.
2 Grease the bearing bush through the
grease nipples on the housing and the
cartridge.
3 Grease the pivot bolt of the overrun
lever and handbrake levers through the
grease nipple.
4 Grease the joint of the Brake rod end
fitting.
5 Oil the joints of the spring cylinder in the
handbrake lever.
Lubricant type: Multi-purpose grease to DIN

51825 KTA 3K4
2.3 Repair
2.3.1 Removing the handbrake lever
Repairing the overrun device is

made easier if the complete overrun
device is unbolted and removed.
02-2
Removing the handbrake lever on delta,
square and tubular overrun devices
Caution: Injuries can be caused

by the handbrake flying up
• Clip the snap hook (1) of the breakaway

cable into hole (2).
• Unscrew the brake rod from the rod end
fitting (3).
• Unclip the snap hook (1) of the breakaway
cable.
• Position the handbrake cable (4) vertically.
• Unscrew the nut (5) from the pivot screw
(6).
• Withdraw the handbrake lever (4) with pivot
screw (6).
When withdrawing the handbrake

lever, the overrun lever (7) and a
shim washer (8) will drop out of the
overrun device.
Removing the handbrake lever on the Euro

overrun device

by the handbrake lever flying up.
• Secure the handbrake lever (1) with a cable

tie (2).
• Unscrew the brake rod (3) from the rod end

fitting (4)
• Remove plug (5)

• Unscrew nuts (6) and take off the cover
plate (7)
02-3
• Secure the spring cylinder (8) with 4 to 5
DIN 125 A13 washers (9) and a DIN 934
M12 nut (10)
• Remove the cable tie
• Position handbrake lever vertically and
remove the spring cylinder (8) from
underneath
When dismantling, the spring

cylinder (8) will drop out
• Unscrew the nut (11) from the pivot screw

(12).
• Take out the pivot screw (12).
• Position the handbrake lever vertically and
withdraw downwards.
When withdrawing the handbrake

lever, the overrunl lever (7) and a shim
washer (8) will drop out of the overrun
device.
2.3.2 Installing the handbrake lever
Installing the handbrake lever on delta,


by the handbrake lever flying up
• Using grease, stick the shim washer to the

opening of the hole in the housing
• Insert and hold the overrun lever (2) with
the hook in the direction of travel
• Insert the handbrake lever (3) with pivot
screw (4) pushed through
The overrun lever (2) must be in

front of the carrier (5) of the hand
brake lever (3) in the direction of travel
Fit the slotted hole (7) on the

handbrake lever segment onto the
tongue (6) on the housing (see page 5)
02-4
• Screw the nut (8) onto the pivot screw and
tighten to 86 Nm
• Move the handbrake lever (3) downwards
cable into hole (10)
• Screw the brake rod into the rod end fitting
(11) and tighten the locknut
• Unclip the snap hook of the breakaway
cable.
• Adjust the braking system and check for
correct operation
The shim washer (1) must not be

tilted between the handbrake lever and
the housing.
Installing the handbrake lever on the Euro

overrun device

Beware of trapped fingers when

installing the spring cylinder.
• Using grease, stick the shim washer to the

opening of the hole in the housing
• Insert and hold the overrun lever (2) with
the hook in the direction of travel
• Insert the handbrake lever (3) from below.
• Insert the pivot screw (4) and put on the
shim washer (5).
• Fit the nut (6) and tighten to 86 Nm.
• Position the handbrake lever vertically.
• Place the spring cylinder (9) secured with

the washers (7) and nut (8) in its mounting
and move the handbrake lever downwards.

• Secure the handbrake lever (10) with a

cable tie (11).
• Remove the nut and washers from the
spring cylinder.
02-5
• Screw the brake rod (12) to the end fitting
• Put on the cover plate (14).

86 Nm
• Insert plug (16)
• Remove cable tie
• Adjust braking system and check for
correct operation
2.3.3 Removing the spring cylinder
Removing the spring cylinder unit with

delta, square and tubular overrun devices
• Unscrew the brake rod from the clevis (1)

• Loosen the locknut (2)
• Take the rod out of the clevis (1) and out of
the support bracket (3).
Removing the spring cylinder on the

Euro overrun device
This work is described in the section

“Removing the handbrake lever on the Euro
overrun device”.
2.3.4 Installing the spring cylinder
Installing the spring cylinder on delta,

• Thread the cylinder (1) onto the rod

• Screw on the adjusting nut (2)
• Screw the locknut (3) onto the rod
• Screw the rod (4) into the clevis fitting
(5)
• Screw the adjusting nut (2) up against
the spring cylinder (1) so that there is
no play
• Adjust the brake system and check for
correct operation
02-6
2.3.5 Removing the overrun lever
Removing the overrun lever on

delta, square, tubular and Euro overrun
devices
This work is described in the section “Installing

the handbrake lever on delta, square, tubular
and Euro overrun devices”.
2.3.6 Replacing the overrun lever
Removing the overrun lever on

delta, square, tubular and Euro overrun
devices
This work is described in the section “Installing

the handbrake lever on delta, square, tubular
and Euro overrun devices”.
2.3.7 Removing the manoeuvring handle
• Unscrew and remove the screws (1)

• Remove the half shells from the jockey
wheel tube
2.3.8 Installing the manoeuvring handle
• Press the two half shells together on the

jockey wheel tube (3)
• Insert the four screws (1) and tighten
in a diagonal sequence.
2.3.9 Removing the jockey wheel and

clamp on the Euro-overrun device
• Loosen the locking lever (1)

• Take the jockey wheel (2) downwards out
of the guide
02-7
• Take the clamping shoe (3) out of the
holder (4).
2.3.10 Installing the jockey wheel and clamp

on the Euro-overrun device
• Insert the clamping shoe (1) into the holder

(2)
• Insert the jockey wheel (3) through the

guide from underneath and pull up until the
recess is reached
• Tighten the locking lever (4)
2.3.11 Removing the breakaway cable
• Using two pairs of pliers, open the

breakaway eye (1) on the brake lever (2)
and unhook it
• Withdraw the breakaway cable (3) through

the guide bracket (4)
02-8
2.3.12 Installing the breakaway cable
• Pull the breakaway cable (1) through the

guide bracket (2)
• Hook the breakaway cable (3) onto the

brake lever (4) and press together with
pliers
The breakaway eye (3) must be

completely closed.
The breakaway ring used in older

models can be replaced with the new
breakaway eye.
2.3.13 Removing the bellows

bolt (2) of the coupling (3)
bolts (2)
• Drive out the rear attachment bolt (2)

with a 10 mm diameter retaining pin (5)
(length to suit drawbar diameter)
• Leave the retaining pin pushed through
the drawbar
• Drive out the front attachment bolt (2).
The retaining bolt (5) keeps the

eye of the damper in position. This is
necessary because of the outward
force exerted by the damper.
• Pull off the bellows (1)
02-9
2.3.14 Installing the bellows
• Fit the bellows (1) onto the bearing bush

(2)
• Insert the spacer tube into the drawbar in
line with the front attachment bolt

• Insert the attachment bolts (4)
86 Nm
When inserting the rear attachment

bolt, the damper eye retaining pin (6)
is driven out.
• Pull the bellows over the attachment bolt

(4)
2.3.15 Removing the drawbar bearings
Removing the drawbar bearings on a

tubular overrun device


cable into hole (2)
fitting (3)
cable
• Position the handbrake cable (4) vertically
• Unscrew grease nipple (5)

• Unscrew and remove the retaining screws
(6) of the bearing cartridge (7)
02-10
• Unscrew and remove the locating pin (8) of
the drawbar (9)

bolt (11)
bolts (11)
• Take out the attachment bolts (11)
• Pull out the bearing cartridge (14) with the

drawbar (15)
• Pull the drawbar backwards out of the
bearing cartridge (14)
Removing the drawbar bearings on delta,



cable into hole (2)
fitting (3)

bolt (5)
bolts (5)
02-11
• Unscrew the nut (8) of the damper retaining
bolt (9)
• Take out the damper retaining bolt (9)
Take out the stop plate (10) of the drawbar
• Pull the drawbar (11) and damper (12)

backwards out of the overrun device (13)
• Unscrew the grease nipples (14)

• Drive out the front and rear bearing bushes
from the back and front respectively using
a tube or extractor
Removing the drawbar bearings on the

Euro overrun device
Caution: Injuries can be caused by

the handbrake lever flying up.
• Secure the handbrake lever (1) with a cable

tie (2).

fitting (4)
02-12
• Remove plug (5)
• Unscrew the nuts (6) and take off the cover
plate (7).

DIN 125 A13 washers (9) and a DIN 934
M12 nut (10).
• Remove the cable tie.
• Position the handbrake lever vertically and
remove the spring cylindert (8) from
underneath.
When dismantling, the cylinder

(8) will drop out.

bolt (12)
bolts (12)
• Unscrew nut (15)

• Pull the damper (16) frontwards out of the
drawbar

bolts (18)
02-13
• Lift out the cast bearing cartridge (19) with
the drawbar (20)
• Pull out the drawbar (20) and take off the
bellows (21)
The holes (22) take the attachment

screws for the cast bearing cartridge.
2.3.16 Installing the drawbar bearings
Installing the drawbar bearings on the

tubular overrun device
Caution: Injuries can be caused by

the handbrake lever flying up.
• Insert the drawbar (1) into the bearing

cartridge (2)
• Slide the bearing cartridge (2) into the
housing (3)
When inserting the bearing

cartridge, make sure that the holes are
correctly positioned.
• Screw the locating pin (4) into the drawbar

(5)
• Insert the retaining bolts (6) and tighten

to 50 Nm
• Screw in grease nipples (7)
• Check that the drawbar moves freely
• Fit the bellows (8) onto the bearing

cartridge
• Position the coupling (9)
• Insert the attachment bolt (10)
86 Nm
The rear attachment bolt must pass

through the front damper eye.
Do not re-use self locking nuts.

02-14
correct operation
Installing the drawbar bearings on delta

and square overrun devices

• Press the front (1) and rear bearing bushes

into the housing (2) as far as they will go,
from the front and rear respectively
• Drill a 7 mm diameter hole for the grease
nipples (3)
• Ream out the bearing bushes to the
required fit using a reamer with guide
• Screw in the grease nipples (3)
Different reamers are available

(see tools list- Section 7).
• Insert the drawbar (4) and damper (5) into

the overrun device (6) from the rear
• Secure the damper (7) and stop plate (8)

• Insert the damper retaining bolt (9)
50 Nm
02-15
(1)

86 Nm
The rear attachment bolt must pass

through the front damper eye.

correct operation
Installing the drawbar bearings on the Euro

overrun device


• Push the drawbar (1) into the bearing

cartridge (2) from the rear
• Insert the bearing cartridge (2) into the
overrun device

40 Nm +/- 5 Nm
02-16
• Insert the damper (6) with damping rubber
into the drawbar from the front
• Fit the nut (7) and tighten to 50 Nm

cartridge
86 Nm
The rear attachment bolt must

pass through the front damper eye.
• Position the handbrake lever vertically

the washers (12) and nut (13) in its
mounting and move the handbrake lever
downwards

cable tie (16)
buffer unit
• Fit the cover plate (17)

86 Nm

02-17
• Screw the brake rod (20) into the rod end
fitting (21) and tighten the locknut
• Adjust braking system and check for
correct operation
2.3.17 Removing the damper
Removing the damper on the tubular over

run device


cable into hole (2).
fitting (3)

bolt (5)
bolts (5)

bolt (9)
• Take out the damper retaining bolt (9)
Do not confuse the damper

retaining bolt (9) with the handbrake
lever pivot bolt.
• Unscrew the retaining bolts (10) of the

bearing cartridge (11)
02-18
• Unscrew the locating pin (13) of the draw
bar (14)
• Pull out the bearing cartridge (11) with the

drawbar (14) and the damper (15)
• Take the damper (15) out of the drawbar
(14) backwards
Removing the damper on delta and square

overrun devices

There are two different methods

of securing the damper in the drawbar.
A: combined with the coupling bolts
B: separately with clamping sleeves

cable into hole (2)
fitting (3)

bolt (5)
bolts (5)

bolt (9)
• Pull out the damper retaining bolt (9)
• Take out the stop plate (10) of the drawbar
02-19
• A:
Pull the damper (11) backwards out of the
overrun device (12)
• B:
Move the drawbar with damper backwards
and drive out the spring pins.
Removing the damper on the Euro overrun

device


cable tie (2).

fitting (4)
• Remove plug (5)

• Unscrew the nuts (6) and take off the cover
plate (7).

DIN125 A13 washers (9) and a DIN 934
M12 nut (10).
• Remove the cable tie.
• Position handbrake lever vertically and
remove the spring cylinder (8) from
underneath.
When dismantling, the cylinder

(8) will drop out.
02-20
bolt (12)
bolts (12)
• Unscrew the nut (15)

• Pull the damper (16) frontwards out of the
drawbar
2.3.18 Installing the damper
Installing the damper on the tubular overrun

device

• Insert the damper (1) and drawbar (2) into

the bearing cartridge (3)
• Push the bearing cartridge (3) into the
housing (4)
When inserting the bearing cartridge,

make sure that the holes are
correctly positioned.
• Screw the locating pin (5) into the drawbar

(6)
• Insert the retaining bolts (7) and tighten

to 50 Nm
• Screw in the grease nipples (8)
02-21
` • Insert the damper retaining screw (9)
• Fit the nut and tighten to 86 Nm
The bolt (9) must pass through

the rear damper eye.

cartridge
86 Nm
The rear attachment bolt must


cable
correct operation
Installing the damper on delta and square

overrun devices

• Insert the damper (1) and drawbar (2) into

the housing from the rear
• Line up the damper (1) and stop plate (4)

• Insert the damper retaining bolt (5)
• Fit a new self-locking nut (6) and tighten to
86 Nm
02-22

• Insert the attachment bolt (10)
86 Nm
The rear attachment screw must


fitting (14)
cable
correct operation
Installing the damper on the Euro over

run device
Caution: Injuries can be caused by the

handbrake lever flying up

• Insert the damper (1) with damping rubber

into the drawbar (2) from the front
• Insert the damper screw (3) through the
hole in the housing
• Fit the nut (4) and tighten to 50 Nm
02-23
car tridge
line with the front attachment bolts
86 Nm
The rear attachment bolts must

• Position the handbrake lever vertically.

the washers (9) and nut (10) in its mounting
and move the handbrake lever downwards.

cable tie (13)
spring cylinder.
• Fit the cover plate (14)

86 Nm
02-24
• Screw the brake rod (17) to the rod end
fitting (18) and tighten the locknut.
2.3.19 Removing the connector holder on

the Euro overrun device
• Pull the connector holder for the 7 way

(1) and 13 way (2) connectors out of the
housing.
2.3.20 Installing the connector holder on

the Euro overrun device
• Plug the connector holder for the 7 way (1)

and 13 way (2) connectors into the
housing.
02-25
3 Axles and brakes
the axles
3.1.1 Function
Each wheel has an independent suspension

system in the axle body (1), so that individual
wheel suspension is provided.
The swinging arms (2) connect the stub axle
(3) to the three-sided inner tube (4) in the axle
body.
When the vehicle is loaded, the three-sided
inner tubes are twisted relative to the six-sided
outer tube.
The rubber suspension units (5) are
deformed when suspension movement occurs
and provide a high degree of self-damping.
Schematic view of the suspension load in the

AL-KO six-sided rubber suspension axle.
3.1.2 Construction
The axle consists of a number of

assemblies:
1 Six-sided outer axle body

2 Three sided inner tube (not visible),
individually for each wheel
3 Swinging arm
4 Axle for mounting the backplate and brake
drum
3.1.3 Different types of axle
The AL-KO axle range comprises six different

types.
AL-KO standard axle (unbraked)
03-1
AL-KO standard axle (braked)
AL-KO compact axle (unbraked)
AL-KO compact axle (braked)
03-2
AL-KO Euro-Plus axle (braked)
• Stub axle secured with collar nut
AL-KO Euro-Plus 45° (braked)
• Stub axle secured with socket head screw
03-3
the wheel brake
3.2.1 Function
The braking of the towing vehicle pulls on the

brake rod (1). The equaliser (2) passes on the
pulling force to the Bowden cables (3) of the
wheel brakes.
The backplate (4) is rigidly fitted or welded to

the swinging arm and does not rotate. When
the brake is applied via the Bowden cables,
the expander (5) presses the brake shoes (6)
against the brake drum. The vehicle is braked.
3.2.2 Construction
The wheel brake system consists of a

number of assemblies:
1 Brake rod
2 Equaliser
3 Brake rod steady (recommended extra)
4 Bowden cable
5 Wheel brake
03-4
Spring Carrier
Spring Carrier
Adjuster Housing Adjuster Nut
Adjuster Screw
Automatic Reverse Lever Inspection Hole
Direction of Travel
Tension Spring Leaf Spring
Leading Shoe
Tailing Shoe (asbestos-free) (asbestos-free)
Brake Shoe Pressure Spring
Brake Shoe Pressure Spring Brake Shoe Pull-Off Spring
Expander Clutch
Link Stop (Reverse)
Adjuster Housing Adjuster Nut

Adjuster Screw
Automatic Reverse Lever
Tailing Shoe (asbestos-free)

Tension Spring

Leading Shoe
Brake Shoe Return Spring (asbestos-free)
Expander Clutch Link Servo Stop, Reversing
03-5
Wheel brake 3081 / 3081 AR
On trailers with stationary or air braking, the

reversing function is immobilised.
Dismantling wheel brake 3081

“ Dismantling the wheel brake”.
Dismantling wheel brake 3081 AR

“ Dismantling the wheel brake”.
03-6
3.3 Maintenance
3.3.1 Maintenance intervals
Initial inspection after 1500 km or

6 months
• Check braking system adjustments

• If necessary, re-adjust the braking system
• Check end play in the wheel hub bearings
on standard axles
• On standard axles, lubricate the bearings
On boat trailers which are driven

into the water, re-lubrication must be
carried out once a year. This does not
apply to waterproof hubs.
Maintenance after 10,000 or 15,000 km or

every 12 months
• Adjust the braking system (wheel brakes)

• Check brake lining wear through the in
spection hole in the backplate.
Where the pull rod overrun travel

is more than 60%, more frequent
adjustment is required. This is due to
heavy loads (using as a trailer or
frequent travel in mountainous
country).
Maintenance after 30,000 km or every 24

months
• Release the wheel brake

• Check brake lining wear
• If necessary, replace the brake linings
• Check the internal components of the
wheel brake
• If necessary, replace weak return springs
• Grease sliding surfaces of adjuster nuts,
automatic reverse lever pivots and
expander lever pivots
• Re-adjust the braking system
03-7
3.3.2 Maintenance work
Before carrying out maintenance work,

always:
• Lift the trailer with a vehicle hoist

• Pull out the drawbar (1) of the overrun
device as far as it will go
• Release the handbrake fully (move down
wards)
Checking braking system adjustment
• Lift the trailer

• Pull on the handbrake to the first notch
With the gas strut version,

hold the lever at the first notch by hand.
• Turn the wheels in the direction of travel

• Check whether braking resistance is uni
form
• If necessary, adjust the braking system
Adjusting the braking system
• Slacken off the brake rod completely at the

equaliser
• Loosen the hexagon nut (1)
• Loosen the ball nut (2)
• Check play in the Bowden cable at the axle

abutment (3):
- about 5 mm
The play in the Bowden cables

should as far as possible be equal for
the brakes on the wheels of an axle.
• Remove the blanking plug from the adjust

ment hole (4)
• Using a screwdriver (5), rotate the adjuster
nut
An arrow is stamped on the

backplate next to the adjustment hole.
Turning in the direction of the arrow
adjusts the brake up, turning in the
opposite direction slackens the brake
off
03-8
• Grease the seating surface of the ball nut
(6)
• Connect up the brake rod on the equaliser
with the ball nut, but do not tighten yet
• Apply the handbrake hard a number of
times to settle the components of the
braking system
• Tighten the ball nut until the Bowden inner
cables are pre-tensioned by 1 – 2 mm
• Lock the ball nut with the hexagon nut.
Movement of the brake rod while

travelling may cause unwanted applica
tion of the brake. To avoid this, the
fitting of a brake rod steady (7) is
recommended.
On versions with a spring cylinder:

tighten the M10 self-locking hexagon
nut only far enough to leave about
1 mm clearance for the spring cylinder
between the nut (8) and support (9).
Checking brake lining wear through the

inspection hole in the backplate
• Remove the blanking plug from the

inspection hole (1)
• Check brake lining wear
• If necessary, renew the brake linings
Renew the brake shoes if there is

less than 2 mm thickness remaining.
03-9
3.3.3 Lubrication
Lubricating the standard axle
The end play on the wheel hub bearings must

be checked after 1500 km or 6 months.

apply to water proof hubs.
• Take off the hub cap (1) and bearing cap
• Remove the split pin from the castellated

nut
If only the end play is to be adjusted,

tighten the castellated nut to 50 Nm
(see description below)
• Unscrew and remove the castellated nut (1)
• Pull off the wheel hub together with the

taper roller bearing (2) inside it, and also
the DIN washer (3)
• Pull out the taper roller bearing and clean
03-10
• Insert the greased taper roller bearing
(1) and DIN washer into the wheel hub (2).
For lubricating the bearing, a multi-

purpose grease to DIN 51825 KTA 3K4
is to be used.
• Fit the wheel hub and bearing onto the stub

axle (3)
• Fit the castellated nut (1)

• Tighten the castellated nut to 50 Nm, at
the same time rotating the hub (2), until
resistance can be felt (use a torque
wrench)
• Back off the castellated nut (1) by 30

degrees and insert the split pin (2)
End play of 0.05 mm is permitted.
Overtightening the bearings causes

bearing damage
• Fit the bearing cap and hub cap (3)
3.3.4 Lubrication
Lubricating the standard axle with collar

nut
The end play on the wheel hub bearings must

be checked after 1500 km or 6 months.

apply to waterproof hubs.
03-11
• Take off the hub cap (1) and bearing cap
If only the end play is to be

adjusted, tighten the castellated nut to
50 Nm (see description below).
• Unscrew and remove the collar nut (1)
• Pull off the wheel hub together with the

taper roller bearing (2) inside it, and
also the DIN washer (3)
• Pull out the taper roller bearing and
clean
• Insert the greased taper roller bearing (1)

and DIN washer into the wheel hub (2).
For lubricating the bearing, a

multi-purpose grease to DIN 51825 KTA
3K4 is to be used.
• Fit the wheel hub and bearing onto the

stub axle (3)
03-12
• Fit a new collar nut (1)
• Tighten the collar nut to 50 Nm, at the
same time rotating the hub (2), until
resistance can be felt (use a torque
wrench)
• Back off the collar nut (1) 30 degrees and

lock using the special tool (2) ( see list of
tools). Stake the collar of the nut into the
groove on the stub axle.
End play of 0.05 mm is permitted.
The collar of the nut must not be

sheared.
Overtightening the bearings causes

bearing damage.
• Fit the bearing cap and hub cap (3)
03-13
3.4 Repair
3.4.1 Removing the brake drum

• Unbolt the wheel
• Remove the dust cap using the shaped tool
(1, see list of tools)
For safety reasons (danger of injury)

and to avoid component damage, we
recommend the use of the special tool.
• Unscrew the flange nut
• Turn the brake drum slightly by hand and

pull off
If the brake drum will not pull off, turn

the brake shoe adjuster screw (2) in the
opposite direction to the arrow. An arrow
(3) is stamped on the backplate next to
the adjustment hole.
• Renew worn brake drums with scoring or

severe corrosion.
Brake drums must not be skimmed.
3.4.2 Installing the brake drum
• Renew worn brake drums with scoring or

severe corrosion
Brake drums must not be skimmed.
• Fit the brake drum onto the stub axle (1)

and wheel brake (2)
There must be no load on the

axle when tightening the flange nut.
03-14
• Tighten the new flange nut to a torque of
280 - 300 Nm (3)
Use new nuts.
• Drive on the dust cap using the shaped

tool (4, see list of tools)
• Bolt on the wheel
• Re-adjust the braking system
NOTE: SECTIONS 3.4.3 AND 3.4.4 ARE FOR 3.4.3 Removing the stub axle
INFORMATION ONLY - THESE PROCEDURES
MUST ONLY BE CARRIED OUT AT THE • Remove the brake drum
AL-KO FACTORY. • Remove the protective cap on the swinging
arm side using a suitable tool.
When re-fitting the stub axle, the

position of the stub axle indicated by
the mark (1) must be kept exactly the
same, as otherwise the toe-in will have
to be re-adjusted.
When replacing the stub axle, it is

recommended that the toe-in should be
checked.
• Transfer the mark on the stub axle to the

swinging arm, using a suitable marker.
− Where the stub axle is secured with a
collar nut:
• The mark (1) is located on the swinging
arm side
− On the Euro-Plus axle with socket head

screw:
• The mark is located on the brake drum side
and must be carefully transferred to the
swinging arm side
03-15
• Unscrew the nut or socket head screw
− Where the stub axle is secured with a collar

nut:
• Unscrew the nut, preventing the stub axle
from turning using a shortened Allen key
(see AL-KO list of tools)

screw:
• Unscrew the socket head screw
Dismantling releases the

backplate (2) and stub axle (3).
3.4.4 Installing the stub axle
When re-fitting the stub axle, the

position of the stub axle indicated by
the mark (1) must be kept exactly the
same, as otherwise the toe-in will have
to be re-adjusted.
When replacing the stub axle, it is

recommended that the toe-in should be
checked.
There must be no load on the axle

when tightening the flange nut.
• Secure the stub axle:

− Where the stub axle is secured with a
collar nut:
• Tighten a new collar nut to the specified
torque:
On the 1637/2051: 500 – 550 Nm
On the 2361: 700 – 750 Nm
Prevent the stub axle from turning using a

shortened Allen key (see AL-KO list of tools).
If the stub axle is rotated when

tightening the nut, the toe-in must be
re-adjusted.

screw:
• Tighten the socket head screw to a torque
of 360 – 380 Nm
• After tightening, apply fresh locking paint
• Fit the protective cap on the swinging arm
side
03-16
3.4.5 Removing the Euro wheel
brake assembly (not on standard
axles)
• Remove brake drum (see 3.4.1)

• Remove stub axle (see 3.4.3)
− Normal Bowden cable:
• If necessary, slacken the hexagon nuts (1)

and ball nut (2) on the Bowden cable
− Quick-fitting Bowden cable:

• Unhook the Bowden cables from the
equaliser
• Slacken the hexagon nut (1) and ball nut

(2) on the brake rod
• Push back the Bowden cable end bush (4)

• Lift off upper part (5) of the Bowden cable
abutment
• Take the upper part out of the opening in
the backplate
• Push the Bowden cable (6) into the

backplate so that the nipple (7) can be
released from the attachment eye (8)
• Pull out the Bowden cable
03-17
3.4.6 Installing the Euro wheel brake
• If necessary, fit the individual parts to the

backplate (for instructions see “Fitting the
wheel brake”, 3.4.6).
Inserting the Bowden cable
• Take off the top part of the Bowden cable

abutment
Make sure that the Bowden cable

end sleeve is fitted the right way round.
• Hook the nipple (4) of a genuine AL-KO

Bowden cable (3, with stamped AL-KO
marking) into the attachment eye (5) of the
expander.
• Pull back the Bowden cable so that the
nipple slides into the correct position.
Bowden cables with excess cable

length must not be fitted into this attach
ment eye. Removal of the excess cable
is not permitted.
• Check visually that the Bowden cable

has seated correctly in the attachment eye.
• Push the upper part (1) of the Bowden

cable abutment into the opening in the
backplate
• Place the upper part to fit exactly over the
welded-on lower part (6)
After fitting the Bowden cable end

sleeve, check again that the Bowden
cable end fitting is correctly seated in
the attachment eye.
• Hook the Bowden cables with the ball

nipple (quick-fitting Bowden cables) onto
the equaliser (7)
• Tighten the hexagon nut and ball nut on the
brake rod
• Screw the equaliser tight on the abutment
03-18
• Adjust the ball nuts (8) and lock with the
hexagon nuts
• Screw the equaliser tight on the abutment
• Fit the backplate (9) to the swinging arm

(10)
Fit the backplate so that the Bowden

cable abutment is positioned as close
as possible to the swinging arm.
• Install the stub axle
Check where the Bowden cable

comes out. Is the cable on top or
underneath?
3.4.7
3.4.7 Dismantling the wheel brake
• Press the brake shoe steady spring (1)

towards the backplate.
The pressure on the brake shoe steady spring

releases the cover plate (2) on the outside of
the backplate.
• Remove the cover plate
Repeat the procedure on the second brake
shoe
• Spread both brake shoes (3) outwards at

the adjuster housing, and disengage from
the slots (4)
03-19
• Take off the brake shoes with expander
lever and return spring (5)
• Separate the brake shoes by unhooking the

tension spring (6) and expander lever
• Take the adjuster (7) out of the adjuster

housing
• Press together and remove the split pin (8)

on the automatic reverse lever pivot bolt on
the outside of the backplate
03-20
• Take out the pivot bolt (9) of the automatic
reverse lever towards the inside
• On the 1636 G wheel brake, the pivot bolt

for the automatic reverse lever is riveted
• Drive the pivot bolt (10) inwards with a
punch
• Take out the automatic reverse lever (11)

and tension spring (12)
3.4.8 Fitting the wheel brake
• Assemble the parts for the wheel brake
The automatic reverse lever (1) and

backplate (2) are different for left and
right wheel brakes
03-21
• Hook a new tension spring (3) into the
backplate by the square end of the spring
• Check that the automatic reverse lever
moves freely
• If the automatic reverse lever is stiff, lubri
cate the pivot
• Replace corroded automatic reverse levers
together with the pivot bolt
• Hook the automatic reverse lever into the
hooked eye on the spring
• Insert the pivot bolt (4)
The automatic reverse lever is

under tension between the tension
spring and pivot bolt.
When fitting the 1636 G wheel

brake, the riveted pivot bolt (5) of the
automatic reverse lever is replaced with
the standard pivot bolt (6).
• The automatic reverse lever (1) must be

against the stop of the adjuster housing (7)
• If the automatic reverse lever is not against

the stop of the adjuster housing, the
tension spring (3) must be renewed.
• Insert and bend over the split pin (8)

securing the pivot bolt
03-22
• Check the leaf spring (9) on the adjuster
device for tension
• Check that the leaf spring engages
sufficiently in the adjuster nut (10)
• Replace weak leaf springs
• Check that the adjuster nut turns freely
• Lubricate stiff adjuster nuts
• Replace rusted up adjuster screws
together with the adjuster nuts
• Grease the adjuster nuts and adjuster

device
• Fit the adjuster device into the adjuster
housing
• Assemble the appropriate brake shoes

(11), expander (12) and new tension
spring (13)
− Before installing the expander lever:

• Check that the expander moves freely
• Lubricate stiff expander lever pivots
• Replace expanders with rusted up pivots
− Installation position for the expander lever:
• The open side of the attachment eye (14)
for the Bowden cable must face towards
the pivoting point (15) of the expander
lever
− Installation position of the tension spring:
• The eyes of the tension spring must face
outwards in the installed position
On type 1637, the brake shoes are

different on the left and right sides.
Note the stamped markings (16, 17)
when fitting.
If the brake shoes are fitted on the

wrong side on this type, the brake will
not operate.
03-23
• Ensure that the expander lever and
automatic reverse lever are correctly
positioned: the pivoting point of the
expander lever (18) must be fitted on the
same side as the pivot bolt of the
automatic reverse lever (19)
Failure to comply with this alters the

brake shoe travel and impairs braking
action.
• Place the assembly of brake shoes,

expander and tension spring onto the
backplate.
Spread the brake shoes outwards

and engage in the slots (20) on the
automatic reverse lever.
• Pass the brake shoe steady spring clips

through the openings (21) in the brake
shoes
• To secure, press the brake shoe steady

spring (22) towards the backplate
• Push in a new cover plate (23) (the plate
may be omitted in the compact axle
service)
• Repeat the procedure on the second brake
shoe
03-24
IMPORTANT NOTE: SECTION 3.4.9 IS FOR 3.4.9 Measuring and adjusting toe-in
INFORMATION ONLY. ALTERATION TO
THE AXLE GEOMETRY MUST ONLY BE Definition
COMPLETED AT THE AL-KO FACTORY.
Schematic view of toe-in:
The toe-in setting gives the axles tyre wear
values comparable with those of passenger
cars. The axles must therefore be installed
with toe-in.
Standard factory toe-in setting 30' ± 10'

Direction of Travel
Range of adjustment
The range of toe-in adjustment is 30' (0.5°)

on either side.
No adjustment is possible on the:

− standard axle
Toe-In Toe-Out
− compact axle
If the toe-in is out of tolerance on

the standard or compact axle, the axle,
swinging arm or stub axle are damaged
and must be repaired at the
manufacturer’s works.
Continuous adjustment is possible on the:

− Euro-Plus axle (stub axle secured with a
collar nut)
Adjustments in steps is possible on the:
− Euro-Plus-45° axle (stub axle secured with

a socket head screw)
If the range of adjustment of 30' is

not sufficient, the axle, swinging arm or
stub axle are damaged and must be
repaired at the manufacturer’s works.
In this case, the complete axle must be
removed and sent to the manufacturer.
It will be completely repaired at AL-KO.
03-25
Percentage Reasons for increased tyre wear
of tyre pressure of load
If the toe-in setting is not as specified, in
creased tyre wear may occur.
Remaining Tyre Mileage
Low tyre pressure or overloading of the trailer

are the most frequent reasons for increased
tyre wear.
The figure shows the remaining mileage, the

highest value being reached at optimum tyre
pressure (100%). If overloading of the vehicle
is avoided, optimum tyre mileage may also be
expected.
Tyre pressure too low Overloading
Excessive speed and high temperature also

Percentage of expected mileage
contribute to increased tyre wear.
The point of normal tyre wear

Outside Temperature
(100%) is specified at an average

speed of 64 km/h and an average
temperature of 19° C.
Remaining tyre mileage
Increased tyre wear also occurs with

incorrect loading. An increased drawbar
load is incorrect (figure A).
Tail-heavy loading of the trailer with negative

drawbar load (figure B) also generates
increased tyre wear.
03-26
The correct condition is to load the trailer
centrally as far as possible, making full use of
the permissible drawbar load (figure C).
Preparations for measuring toe-in
• Determine the axle type and permitted axle

load from the type plate on the axle
• Establish the permitted total weight of the
vehicle
• Weigh the vehicle
Vehicle weight must not exceed

the permitted total weight.
• Adjust the tyre pressures to the specified

values
• Move the vehicle 2-3 m forwards or simu
late the movement on a rolling road
• Measure the toe-in
For measuring the toe-in, the

wheels of the vehicle must be loaded.
• On straight axles, toe-in should be 10' – 30'

independent of axle load.
• On delta axles, calculate the toe-in settings

Vehicle Weight (Kg - Weighed) from the table on the next page.
%GA = x 100
Permitted Axle Load as per type plate
• Calculate the numerical value for %GA
using the formula opposite
• Read off the correct toe-in value for delta

%GA Toe-In [ ] = ' axles from the table opposite
70 0 - 15 • If the measured toe-in differs from the toe-

80 0 - 15 in to be set, the toe-in must be re-adjusted
90 0 - 20
100 5 - 25 On axles manufactured before
1993, the toe-in is 30' ± 15'.
03-27
Preparations for adjusting toe-in

• Unbolt the wheel
• Remove the dust cap with the shaped tool
(1, see list of tools)
For safety reasons (danger of injury)

and to avoid component damage, we
recommend the use of the special tool.
• If corroded, clean up the threaded pin and

end face
• Establish the position of the notch on the
stub axle
nut:
• The notch (2) is located on the swinging
arm side

screw:
• The notch is located on the brake drum
side and must be carefully transferred to
the swinging arm side.
• On the basis of the notch position, estimate
whether the possible adjustment available
is enough to set the required toe-in
Possible adjustment available

Direction of Travel
If the range of adjustment is not
enough to set the required toe-in, repair
Lon can be carried out at the
gitud
inal manufacturer’s works
Axis
Notch on the swinging arm centreline, front
The toe-in is already at its maximum possible

value. It can only be adjusted by a maximum
of 1° in a negative direction. Further
adjustment in the direction of positive tracking
is not possible.
03-28
Notch on the swinging arm centreline, rear
Direction of Travel The toe-in is already at its minimum

possible value (possibly even toe-out). It
can only be adjusted by a maximum of 1° in
Lon a positive direction. Further adjustment in
gitud
inal the direction of negative tracking is not
Axis
possible.
Notch at right angles to the swinging arm

Direction of Travel centreline
The toe-in can be adjusted by not more than

Lon 30' (corresponding to 0.5°) in either direction.
gitud
inal With different notch positions, there are
Axis
corresponding differences in the range of
adjust ment.
Loosening the stub axle fastening

nut:
• Unscrew the flange nut, preventing the stub
axle from turning using a shortened Allen
key (see AL-KO list of tools)
• Screw on a new flange nut (do not tighten)
• Adjust the toe-in by rotating the stub axle

screw:
• Loosen the socket head screw and un
screw about 10-15 mm. Pull out the stub
axle past the spanner face on the toothed
bush
• Adjust the toe-in by rotating the stub axle.
On the Euro-Plus axle with socket head screw,
this can only be done in 60° steps
• Re-use the old socket head screw while
setting the toe-in
03-29
Rotating the stub axle
Where toe-in is too little:

• Turn the stub axle notch in the direction of
the axle body
If the notch is above the lengthwise axis

of the swinging arm, rotate in the
direction of the continuous arrow (1). If
the notch is below, rotate in the
direction of the dashed arrow (2).
Regardless of the direction of rotation

of the stub axle, the notch must not go
beyond the lengthwise axis of the
swinging arm, as this could cause
undesirable changes in camber.
Where toe-in is too much:

• Turn the stub axle notch in the direction of
the end of the swinging arm
If the notch is above the lengthwise axis

of the swinging arm, rotate in the
direction of the continuous arrow (3). If
the notch is below, rotate in the
direction of the dashed arrow (4).
Regardless of the direction of

rotation of the stub axle, the notch must
not go beyond the lengthwise axis of
the swinging arm, as this could cause
undesirable changes in camber.
• Check that the toe-in setting is correct
Securing the stub axle after adjusting toe-

in
Install the stub axle rotated to the

correct position.
For tightening the nut or socket

head screw, there must be no load on
the axle.

nut:
Tighten the new flange nut to a torque of 600
– 650 Nm, preventing the stub axle from
turning using a shortened Allen key (see AL-
KO list of tools)
03-30
If the stub axle is rotated when
tightening the nut, toe-in adjustment
must be repeated.

screw:
• After checking that the toe-in setting is
correct, loosen the old socket head screw
• To secure the stub axle, use a new socket
head screw with plastic locking device
• Tighten the new socket head screw to a
torque of 360 - 380 Nm
3.4.10 Fitting dampers
• Select dampers to suit the appropriate

weight class (see table)
Weight range for AL-KO Octagon axle

dampers
Total weight
Order no. Colour Single axle Tandem axle Hinge fitting eyes
244 084 green up to 900 up to 1600 yes

244 085 blue 900 to 1300 1600 to 2500 yes
244 086 red 1300 to 1800 2500 to 3500 yes
244 087 black 1800 to 4000 3500 to 7500 no
282 259 black up to 1500 up to 3000 yes
• Look up suitable damper mountings and

retainers to suit weight class and frame
design (see table)
Suitable for types Euro axle system: Damper Non AL-KO

damper mounting, mounted in chassis:
plug-in, swing arm welded version mounting
per swing arm for welding
to frame
Single axle Tandem axle Colour Order no. Order no. Order no.
up to 900 up to 1600 green 244 088 — 208.631.02.02
900 to 1300 1600 to 2500 blue 244 088 - 208.631.02.02
1300 to 1800 2500 to 3500 red - 258.631.02.02 208.631.02.02
1800 to 4000 3500 to 7500 black - 258.631.02.02 208.631.02.02
03-31
• Determine installation dimensions
according to the table
• The installation dimensions refer to the
following drawings.
Installation dimensions for types Installation dimensions with no load on axle

Single axle Tandem axle Colour A B C D E
up to 900 up to 1600 green 265/270 min. 255 125 52 to 75 25 to 50
900 to 1300 1600 to 2500 blue 235 min. 255 125 52 to 77 25 to 50
1300 to 1800 2500 to 3500 red 265 min. 255 125 52 to 75 25 to 50
1800 to 4000 3500 to 7500 black 265 min. 255 125 52 to 75 25 to 50
up to 1500 up to 3000 black 235/265 min. 255 125 52 to 75 25 to 50
Installation for AL-KO Chassis
Installation for non AL-KO Chassis(example only)
03-32
• Remove square plugs from the
swinging arm using a suitable tool
• Insert the damper mounting (1) into the
slotted hole on the swinging arm
Fit the damper mounting so that

the arrow marking (2) faces in the
direction of travel.
Incorrect fitting will destroy the

damper mountings and dampers.
• Press the half-shells of the damper

mounting (1) together. If necessary, use
pliers
- On forged swinging arms:

• Weld the damper mounting lugs (3) to the
swinging arm
Depending on the frame design,

the damper screw is fitted on the out
side or inside of the damper mounting.
Check with table opposite.
Caution. The distance between

the tyres and damper components must
not be less than 16 mm. Failure to
observe this may cause accidents.
Axle Type Attachment
Straight inside
Delta outside
Delta SI-N 10/12
Chassis with
section
outside1
Delta
Delta SI 850
Delta SI-N 10/12
Delta SI 14
Chassis with
section
1
Note: Maximum permissible wheel size is
6J x 14 ET 38 with 185/70 R14 tyres or
6J x 15 ET 30 with 206/65 R15 tyres 03-33
• Fit the damper screw (4) on the correct side
(shown here: inside fitting) of the damper
mounting
• Loosely screw on the self-locking nut (5).
Correct installation position for

dampers: Cylinder tube at the bottom
on the damper mounting, coloured shroud
tube at the top on the frame.
Incorrect fitting will destroy the

damper mountings and dampers.
The screw head must always

be fitted on the tyre side.
Safety distance between the

attachment screw and tyre: 15 mm
minimum.
Fitting the damper to the vehicle frame
• Compress the damper completely

• Extend the damper again by 20 mm
• Offer up the damper screw to the frame (6)
and pass through the nearest hole
• Fit the chassis reinforcement
− On the AL-KO system chassis:
• Use the reinforcing plate
− On non-AL-KO chassis:
• Weld on mounting plates to suit specified
installation dimensions
• Loosely screw on the self-locking nut, do
not tighten yet
• Align the damper and damper mounting
• Tighten the self-locking nuts on the frame
and damper mounting to 86 Nm
• In each case, use the screw head (7) to
prevent it rotating
03-34
4 Height Adjustable overrun device with towing hitch
4.1 Function and construction of the

Height Adjustable Overrun
4.1.1 Function
The overrun device (1) may be described as

the control unit for the overrun braking
system. Braking by the towing vehicle
generates a towbar force at the coupling point
(2). When the operating threshold is
exceeded, the drawbar (3) is pushed in. This
causes the wheel brakes (5) to operate via the
linkage system (4).
4.1.2 Construction
The overrun device consists of a number of

assemblies:
1 Handbrake system
2 Breakaway cable
3 Housing
4 Drawbar
5 Damper (fitted internally)
6 Overrun lever, upper
7 Overrun lever, lower
8 Adjustment aid with gas strut
9 Locking bar
10 Height adjustment arms
11 Linkage cable
12 Pivot bolt
4.2 Maintenance
With all work undertaken on the

variable height overrun device, make
sure at the conclusion of the work that
the overrun device and towbar are
parallel with each other. Otherwise the
braking system will not work.
With all work on the height adjustable

overrun device, the trailer must be
secured with wheel chocks to prevent
movement.
04-1
Handbrake
• Pull the handbrake lever (1) on and check

that it moves freely
• Check the condition of the gas strut
The condition of the gas strut can be

checked by visually inspecting for
leaks. Fluid leakage means reduced
effectiveness.
Serrated locking rings
• The serrated locking rings must lock

together without any play
• Tighten the locking bar and hammer tight
with a plastic or rubber hammer (2)
• Insert the spring clip (3)
Drawbar bearings
• Pull the drawbar out as far as the stop

• Press the drawbar up and down. Play must
be not more than +/- 1.5 mm
Overrun device damper
• Test by moving the damper in and out.

Replace if there are oil leaks, or reduced
effectiveness or if air has been drawn in
Adjustment aid
• Check the condition of the gas strut
04-2
Overrun and coupling attachment screws
• Check all attachment screws of the overrun

device and coupling for tightness. (Ensure
the correct tightening torque)
Breakaway cable
• Check the ring of the breakaway cable on

the handbrake lever
• Check the condition of the cable guide
• Check the condition of the snap hook
• Check the condition of the cable
Jockey wheel (attachment / mounting) and

locking bar
• Check that these move freely and are

undamaged
4.2.2 Lubrication
Every 10,000-15,000 km or 6 months, grease

or oil sliding and swivelling points of the height
adjustable overrun device.
Lubrication points
1 Grease the drawbar in the area of the

bellows.
2 Grease the bearing bush through the
grease nipples on the housing.
3 Grease the serrated locking ring joints.
4 Grease the pivot bolts of the overrun and
handbrake levers through the grease
nipples.
5 Oil the locking bar.
6 Oil the joints of the gas strut in the hand
brake lever.

51825 KTA 3K4

51502 KPF 2C (for serrated locking ring joint)
04-3
4.3 Repair
With all work undertaken on the

height adjustable overrun device, make
sure at the conclusion of the work that
the overrun device and towbar are
parallel with each other. Otherwise the
braking system will not work.
With all work on the height adjustable

overrun device, the trailer must be
secured with wheel chocks to prevent
movement.
4.3.1 Removing the ball coupling

screw (2) of the coupling (3)
screws (2)
• Drive out the rear attachment screw (2)
• Drive out the front attachment screw (2).
4.3.2 Installing the ball coupling
• Insert the spacer tube (1) into the drawbar

(2) in line with the front attachment screw
• Insert the attachment screws (4)
86 Nm
• Check operation of the damper by moving
the drawbar in and out
Always fit the horizontal screws through

from the left side, viewed in the
Do not re-use self-locking nuts
04-4
4.3.3 Removing the towing eye
• Remove the cable tie (1) securing the

bellows

screw (3) of the towing eye (4)
screws (3)
• Drive out the front attachment screw (3).
• Take off the towing eye (4)
4.3.4 Installing the towing eye
• Fit the towing eye (1)

86 Nm
Always fit the horizontal screws through

from the left side, viewed in the
Do not re-use self-locking

nuts.
• Push the bellows (4) over the rear

attachment screw
• Secure the bellows with the cable tie (5)
04-5
4.3.5 Removing the bellows

“Removing the ball coupling or towing eye”.
4.3.6 Installing the bellows

“Installing the ball coupling or towing eye”.
4.3.7 Removing the drawbar bearings

screw (2) of the coupling (3)
screws (2)
• Drive out the front attachment screw. (Re
member the spacer tube)
• Pull the bellows off the drawbar bearings
• Loosen the rear attachment screw (5) of

the overrun lever and take off the nut
• Pull out the attachment screw and take out
the upper overrun lever (6)
04-6
• Loosen and remove the nut of the damper
mounting bolt
• Pull out the damper mounting bolt (7) and
remove the distance pieces (8)
On type 101 VB, 161 VB and 351 VB

overruns, the damper mounting bolt is
installed vertically.
• Remove the protective cap from the hole in

the housing
• Position the spring pin of the damper in
front of the hole by means of the draw bar
• Drive out the spring pin (9) with a punch
On type 101 VB overruns, the

damper is secured with the coupling
attachment screws.
• Pull out the damper (10) rearwards
• Loosen and unscrew the nuts of the screws

(11)
04-7
• Pull the drawbar (13) backwards out of the
overrun device (14)

• Drive out the front (16) and rear (17)
bearing bushes from the back and front
respectively using a tube or extractor
4.3.8 Installing the drawbar bearings
• Press the front (1) and rear (2) bearing

bushes into the housing (3) as far as they
will go, from the front and rear respectively
• Drill 7 mm diameter holes for the grease
nipples (4)
• Ream out the bearing bushes to the
required fit using a reamer with guide
• Screw in the grease nipples
Different reamers are available

(see tools list).
• Insert the drawbar (5) into the overrun

device from the rear
• Check the damping rubber (6) for damage
Replace the damping rubber (6) if

damaged.
04-8
• Insert the stop plate (7) with two screws (8)
• Fit and tighten new self-locking nuts.
• Insert the damper (9) into the overrun

device from the rear
• Position the hole in the draw bar and the

damper eye at the hole in the housing
• Drive in the spring pin (10) using a punch
On type 101 VB overruns, the damper

is secured with the coupling attachment
screws.
• Press the protective cap into the hole in the

housing
• Locate the damper (9) and distance pieces

(11) with a screwdriver (12)
• Insert the damper mounting bolt (13) with
washer (14)
• Fit and tighten new self-locking nuts
On type 101 VB, 161 VB and 351 VB

overruns, the damper mounting bolt is
installed vertically.
04-9
• Insert the upper overrun lever (15) into the
housing (16)
• Insert the attachment screw (17)
• Fit new self-locking nuts and tighten

(19)
• Insert the spacer tube (20) into the drawbar
in line with the front attachment screw

86 Nm
Always fit the horizontal

screws through from the left side,
viewed in the direction of travel.
4.3.9 Removing the damper

“Removing the drawbar bearings”.
4.3.10 Installing the damper

“Installing the drawbar bearings”.
4.3.11 Removing the stop

04-10
4.3.12Installing the stop

4.3.13Removing the damping rubber

4.3.14Installing the damping rubber

4.3.15Removing the handbrake
• Unscrew the nut (1) of the attachment

screw and remove together with the washer
(2)
• Remove the handbrake lever (3) from the
pivot bolt (4)
4.3.16Installing the handbrake lever
• Fit the handbrake lever (1) onto the pivot

bolt (2)
• Insert the securing bracket (3) into the slot
(4) on the housing
• Fit and tighten the self-locking nut (5) with
washer (6)
The handbrake lever (7) must be

located behind the carrier (8) of the
overrun lever.
04-11
4.3.17 Removing the breakaway cable
• Open the breakaway eye (1) on the brake

lever (2) with two pairs of pliers and unhook
• Pull the breakaway cable (3) out

through the guide eye (4)
4.3.18 Installing the breakaway cable
• Pull the breakaway cable (1) through the

guide eye (2)
• Hook the breakaway ring (3) onto the brake

lever (4) and press together with pliers
The breakaway eye (3) must be

completely closed.
The breakaway ring used in older

models can be replaced with the new
breakaway eye.
4.3.19 Removing the overrun lever, upper
Before loosening the locking bar, the

overrun device and height adjustment
arms must be secured against falling.
• Remove the retaining ring (1) and shaped

washer (2) of the locking bar
04-12
• Pull out the spring clip (3)
• Unscrew the locking bar (4) and washer (5)
• Take out the pivot bolt (6)
• Remove the split pin retaining the pin (7)

• Remove the pin and washer (8)
• Separate the overrun lever (9) from the
brake rod (10)
04-13
• Unscrew the rear attachment screw (11)
and remove the nut
• Pull out the screw and the upper overrun
lever (12)
4.3.20 Installing the overrun lever,

upper
• Insert the upper overrun lever (1) into the

housing
• Insert the rear attachment screw (2)
• Fit a new self-locking nut and tighten to 86
Nm
• Connect the overrun lever (3) and the

brake rod (4) with a pin (5)
• Fit the washer (6) and secure the pin with a
split pin
• Insert the overrun lever into the upper part

and locate with the pivot bolt (7)
04-14
• Screw up the locking bar (8), fit the shaped
washer (9) and secure with the retaining
ring (10)
4.3.21 Removing the overrun lever, lower
Before loosening the lower overrun

lever, the overrun device and height
adjustment arms must be secured
against falling.
• Remove the retaining ring (1) and

shaped washer (2) of the locking bar
• Pull out the spring clip (3)
04-15
• Remove the locking bar (4) and washer (5)
• Pull off the left-hand height adjustment

arm (6)
• Pull out the pivot bolt (7) with the hand

brake lever, not forgetting the right-hand
height adjustment arm (8)
• Pull out the pivot bearing bush (9) of the

lower overrun lever with adjustment aid
The lower overrun lever (10) with

adjustment aid will fall out when the
pivot bolt is removed.
04-16
4.3.22 Installing the overrun lever, lower
• Insert the overrun lever (1) with adjustment

aid into the towbar (2) and locate with the
pivot bolt (3)
The gas strut of the adjustment

aid must be inserted into the opening
(abutment) in the towbar.
• Insert the pivot bolt (4) with handbrake

lever, not forgetting the right hand height
adjustment arm (5)
The handbrake lever securing

bracket (6) must be inserted into the
slot (7) in the towbar.
The height adjustment arm must

be secured against dropping.
• Fit the left-hand height adjustment arm (8)

so that it is in the support (9) of the
adjustment aid
04-17
• Fit the washer (10) and tighten the locking
bar (11)
• Fit the shaped washer (12) and retaining

ring (13)
4.3.23 Removing the adjustment aid

“Removingthe overrun lever, lower”.
• The adjustment aid (1) with gas strut is
taken off the bush of the overrun lever
(2)
4.3.24 Installing the adjustment aid
• The adjustment aid (1) with gas strut is

fitted onto the bush of the overrun lever
(2)
The remaining work is described in the

section “Installing the overrun lever, lower”.
04-18
5 Safety winches
5.1 Function and Constrution of
Winches
5.1.1 Function
The winch is used for lifting and hauling loads.
To avoid uncontrolled lowering of the load, all

winches have an automatic load-pressure
brake.
If less than the minimum weight is

lifted, uncontrolled lowering of the load
may occur.
The load-pressure brake only becomes

effective after correct pre-tensioning by
turning the crank several times.
Under load, at least two turns of cable

(turns of strap) must be left on the
drum.
Types 901 A and 1201 A have an auto-unwind

device. The cable or strap can be speedily
unwound when the crank is removed.
Caution. Wire cables can cause injury.

Always wear gloves.
To prevent release of the load-pressure

brake, the crank must be left on the drive
shaft when the winch is used with a
suspended load.
5.1.2 Construction
The winch consists of the following

assemblies:
− Crank handle (1)

− Cover (2) to protect the gearing and brake
mechanism
05-1
− Drive shaft (3)
− Intermediate shaft (4)
− Drum (5) to take up the cable or straps
The intermediate shaft (4) is omitted on

types 351 and 501. In those cases, the
teeth on the drum (5) face outwards
instead of inwards.
The drive shaft comprises the following

assemblies:
− Transmission pinion (1)

− Inner brake disc (2)
− Ratchet wheel (3) to engage the pawl
− Outer brake disc
The intermediate shaft comprises the

following assemblies:
− Gear wheel (1)

− Intermediate pinion (2)
5.2 Maintenance
5.2.1 Checking the cables and straps
Cables and straps must be checked

regularly for wear or damage and if
necessary replaced immediately.
Checking criteria for cables
• Examine for
− Crushed areas
− Breakage of individual wires
Checking criteria for straps
• Examine for
− Abrasion
− Cracks
− Breakage of fibres
05-2
5.2.2 Compulsory specialist check
(at least once a year)
In accordance with the UVV

“Winches, lifting and hauling gear”
(VGB 8 §23) , the winch must be
checked at least once a year by a
specialist. Depending on the conditions
of use (frequency of use) and operating
conditions, more frequent testing may
be required.
5.2.3 Maintenance work
On all models, make sure that the

brake discs (1) do not come into
contact with oil or grease.
Models with loose brake discs are

assembled as standard with graphite
paste (Klüber company, Wolfracoate
99113)
No other lubricants are permitted.
Lubrication with oil
• Regularly oil the bearing bushes (1,2) of

the drive shaft
• Regularly oil the bearing bushes-needle
bearings of the intermediate pinion (3)
• Regularly oil the bearing (4) of the drum
hub
• On the back, also oil the bearing bushes of

the drive shaft (2) and the outer surfaces of
the shaft (4)
On type 501, the intermediate stage is

omitted.
05-3
Lubrication with grease
• Regularly grease the tooth flanks of the

gear wheels (1-4)
• Grease the acme thread of the crank
mounting (5) regularly and adequately

Cleaning dirty screw threads
• Regularly clean the acme thread on the

crank mounting
On models 901A and 1201A
• Grease the acme thread (1) of the crank

mounting (crank nut) regularly and
adequately, removing the crank and un
screwing the crank nut for this purpose.

5.3 Repair
5.3.1 Removing the crank
Types 501 to 901
• Remove the cover cap (1)
05-4
• Lock the cable drum
• Unscrew the attachment screw (2)
• Remove the retaining ring and washer
• Loosen and take off the crank handle (3) by

turning to the left several times
Types 901 A and 1201 A
Removing the crank handle

• Pull out the locking button (1)
• Pull the crank handle off the crank nut (2)
Removing the crank mounting

• Unscrew the attachment screw (3)
• Remove the retaining ring and washer
• Loosen and take off the crank nut (3) by
turning to the left several times
05-5
5.3.2 Removing the covers
• Remove the crank handle
• Unscrew the screws (1)
• Fold the covers (2) on the top outwards
and remove
5.3.3 Removing the brake discs and

ratchet wheel
• Remove the crank handle

• Remove the covers
Until the pressure spring and the spring

retaining plate on the pawl have been
unhooked, beware of trapped fingers
when removing.
Both brake discs and the ratchet wheel

are free to move axially on the drive
shaft. They can be removed without
tools.
• Remove the outer brake disc (1)

• Remove the ratchet wheel (2)
• Remove the inner brake disc (3)
5.3.4 Removing the pawl
• Remove the brake discs and ratchet wheel

• Turn the pawl (1) to the right
• Press the spring retaining plate (2) down
wards
• Unhook the spring retaining plate with
spring (3)
• Unscrew the hexagon screw (4)
• Remove the pawl
05-6
5.3.5 Removing the drive shaft
On type 351, the drive shaft cannot be

removed. Accordingly, removal is
described for type 501 only.
Type 501
• Remove the brake discs and ratchet wheel

• Remove the pawl
• Drive the pin (1) out of the drive shaft
• Remove the crank mounting (2) from the
drive shaft.
• Remove the retaining ring (3) from the drive

shaft
• Remove the washers (4) from the drive
shaft
The washers are used for lengthwise

adjustment and the same number must
therefore be refitted.
• Press the bearing bush (5) outwards and

remove
• Push the drive shaft inwards (6) out of the
bearing on the drive side
• Take out the drive shaft
05-7
5.3.6 Removing the gear wheel and
bearing
• Remove the drive shaft

• Unscrew the hexagon screw (1)
• Take off the gear wheel (2)
• Unscrew the screws (3)

• Take off the bearing housing (4)
• To remove the intermediate pinion (5),

remove the drum (6)
Type 651 to type 901
• Remove the gear wheel (1)

• Unscrew the nut (2) on the back of the
housing frame
5.3.7 Removing the drum
Type 501
• Unscrew the nut (1)

• Take out the screw (2)
• Take out the drum
05-8
• Remove the gear wheel (1)

• Unscrew the nut (2) on the back of the
housing frame
• Pull out the screw (3)

Type 1201
• Remove the gear wheel

• Remove the retaining ring (1) from the
drum shaft
• Pull out the axle (2)

Contrary to the illustration, the axle can

only be taken out with the gear wheel
removed.
05-9
5.3.8 Installing the drum
Type 501
• Insert the screw (1) in the direction of the

arrow into the drum and housing
• Tighten the nut (2)
The drum must rotate freely.
• Insert the drum (1), ensuring that it meshes

with the inner intermediate pinion
• Insert the screw (2) into the drum and the
frame of the unit
• Tighten the nut (3) on the back of the

housing frame
The drum must rotate freely.
Type 1201
• Insert the drum (1), ensuring that it meshes

with the inner intermediate pinion
• Insert the axle (2) into the drum and the
housing
Contrary to the illustration, the axle can

only be fitted with the gear wheel re
moved.
• Fit the retaining ring (3) onto the drum axle
05-10
5.3.9 Installing the intermediate
pinion and bearing
• Install the drum (1)

• Insert the intermediate pinion (2)
• Position the bearing housing (3)

• Tighten the screws (4)
• Fit the gear wheel (5)

• Tighten the screw (6) and washer (7)
5.3.10 Installing the drive shaft
Type 501
• Position the drive shaft (1) at an angle

• Insert the free end into the bearing opening
as shown (2)
05-11
• Fit the bush (3) onto the drive shaft and
press into the housing
• Push the drive shaft and bush into the

bearing on the drive side (4)
The washers are used for lengthwise

adjustment and the same number must
therefore be refitted.
• Fit the washers onto the drive shaft

• Fit the retaining ring (6) to the drive shaft
• Fit the crank mounting (7) onto the drive

shaft
• Drive a new pin (8) into the drive shaft
05-12
5.3.11Installing the pawl
• Place the pawl (1) onto the spacer tube

• Screw on the hexagon screw (2) and
washer (3)
• Turn the pawl to the right
• Insert the spring retaining plate (4) and
spring (5) into the retainer on the housing
• Hook the spring retaining plate and pres
sure spring into the pawl
5.3.12 Installing the brake discs and

ratchet wheel
If the pressure spring on the pawl is not

unhooked, beware of trapped fingers
when installing.
On types 351 to 901, the brake disks

should be lubricated with graphite
paste (Wolfracoate 99113). On type
1201, they are not metal and must
therefore not come into contact with oil
or grease.
Both brake discs and the ratchet wheel

are free to move axially on the drive
shaft. They can be fitted without tools.
• Fit the inner brake disc (1)

• Fit the ratchet wheel (2)
• Fit the outer brake disc (3)
5.3.13 Fitting the covers
• Insert plastic lugs (1) on the covers (2) into

the winch housing
• Fit the covers
• Tighten the screws (3)

05-13
5.3.14 Installing the crank handle
• Fit the crank handle (1) onto the drive

shaft, having previously removed the
screw, washer and retaining ring
• Screw the crank handle onto the drive
shaft, until the crank nut bears against the
brake disc

• Fit the washer
• Fit the retaining ring
• Tighten the attachment screw (2)
Note maximum torque values:
- type 351: 10 Nm
- types 501 - 901: 20 Nm
- type 901 A: 10 Nm
- type 1201 A: 20 Nm
The crank must turn at least a quarter of

a turn to the left without the drive shaft
or cable drum moving or turning with it.
• Press on the cover cap (3)
Types 901 A and 1201 A
Fitting the crank nut
• Place the pressure spring in the crank nut

• Screw the crank nut onto the drive shaft
until the crank nut bears against the brake
disc
• On type 1201 A, insert the attachment
screw (2) and tighten
• On type 901 A, fit a new self-locking
hexagon nut onto the threaded section of
the drive shaft
05-14
Fitting the crank handle
• Pull out the locking button (3)
• Fit the crank handle onto the crank nut (4)
• Engage the locking button
5.3.15 Replacing cables and straps
Installing the cable on types 501 to 901
• Thread the cable end from the inside (1) of

the drum outwards through the opening (2)
• Pass (4) the cable end out of the opening

and under the retaining plate (3)
• Bring the cable end back to the other side
of the retaining plate (5) so that a semi-
circular loop is formed
• Tighten the screw (6)
Note: maximum torque 10 Nm.
Installing the cable on type 1201
• Thread the cable end from the inside (1) of

the drum outwards through the opening (2)
05-15
• Pass the cable end out of the opening and
through the sleeve (3)
• Tighten the screws (4) on the outside of the
sleeve
Installing the strap on types 501 to 901
The anchor bar (1) includes a washer (2) and

screw (3).
The various small and medium size

models each require different anchor
bars and strap sizes.
The breaking strain of the strap must be

at least seven times the specified haul
ing load in the lowermost layer of cable.
Type Anchor bar Strap Minimum breaking strain
351 352.516 245.355 2450 kg

501 352.514 245.356 3500 kg
651 352.515 245.357 4550 kg
901 352.516 245.358 6300 kg
1201 352.657 245.115 8750 kg
• Pass (5) the anchor bar from the outside of

the drum through the strap loop (4)
• Engage the anchor bar on the opposite
side (6)
05-16
• Insert and tighten the screw complete with
washer (7) through the outside of the drum
into the threaded hole in the anchor bar
Installing the strap on type 1201
• The anchor bar (1) includes the carriage

bolt (2) and self-locking nut (3)
The breaking strain of the strap must be

at least seven times the specified haul
ing load in the lowermost layer of cable.
Type Anchor bar Strap Minimum breaking strain
351 352.516 245.355 2450 kg

501 352.514 245.356 3500 kg
651 352.515 245.357 4550 kg
901 352.516 245.358 6300 kg
1201 352.657 245.115 8750 kg
05-17
• Pass (5) the anchor bar from the outside of
the drum through the strap loop (4)
• Engage the anchor bar on the opposite
side (6)
• From the inside of the drum, insert the

carriage bolt (7) into the square opening in
the anchor bar
• Tighten the self-locking nut (8) on the

outside of the drum
05-18
6 Accessories
6.1 Dampers
6.1.1 Overview of range
The weight range for which the usual axle

dampers available on the market are designed
has too wide a spread (1).
The consequence: optimum damping is only
achieved at average trailer weights (2). Lighter
axle load
trailers bounce and bump because the damp

ing is excessive, and with heavier trailers the
usual additional dampers have scarcely any
effect, as the damping is insufficient.
AL-KO build dampers with different settings

for four different weight ranges:
- Green for axle weights up to 900 kg (3)
- Blue for axle weights up to 1300 kg (4)
- Red for axle weights up to 1800 kg (5)
- Black for axle weights over 1800 kg (6).
Optimum damping action is thus achieved for

damping force most types of trailers.
This means:
− Better driving stability
− Better braking stability
− Optimum road contact.
Features of AL-KO Octagon dampers

− The installation position ensures low wear
and strain-free mounting with up to 5° tilt
permitted by the attachment eyes with
bushed rubber mountings
− The integral bolts and nuts fitted to the
damper eyes are provided as standard
− Overload protection prevents overstressing
of the materials
− Only best quality seals used
− Valves of chromium plated silver metal
− Piston rod surface finish 0.1 Ra
− Dust protection between outer and inner
tubes
− Only special fluid used.
Installation dimensions, technical data

and order numbers can be found in
section 3.4.10 “Installing dampers”.
06-1 06-1
6.2 AL-KO Safety security devices
(1)
AL-KO Safety anti-theft devices are produced

in four different models:
− for AKS 2000/2500/2700 (1)
(2) − for AKS 1300 (2)
− for AK 300 and 160 (3)
− for AK 160 with 35 mm shaft diameter
− for AKS 2004 (4)
(3)
(4)
Features of the AL-KO Safety anti-theft

devices:
− Protection against unauthorised coupling
and uncoupling
− Protection against theft of the ball coupling
− Barrel lock with anti-drilling protection
− Fitted by locking plates (4) on right and left
sides (integral part of casting on on AKS
2004)
− Can remain fitted for driving
- Have Sold Secure & TUV Approvals.
On the AKS 2000 with round side arms ([5],

units built up to 1992), the AL-KO Safety
cannot remain fitted for driving, as the
stabilising handle cannot be operated fully ie
the handle cannot be pushed fully down due
to interference with the safety device..
06-2
6.2.2 Fitting the device (illustrations
show the AKS 2700)
• Open the stabilising lever (1) on the AKS
• Place the AL-KO Safety on the AKS (2)
• Press in the lock barrel (3) until it engages

• Dust is excluded by the cover (4) which
swivels over the lock barrel.
• Close the stabilising lever
To remove, carry out these steps in

reverse order.
06-3
6.3 Jockey wheels with spindles
AL-KO jockey wheels with spindles are

produced for five different static loads:
− for 150 kg capacity with plastic wheel (1)
− for 150 kg capacity with steel wheel (2)
− for 200 kg capacity with plastic wheel (3)
It is usual practice is to give the static

load capacities only. When
manoeuvring (= dynamic loading), the
load capacity is reduced by up to 40%.
Features of the AL-KO jockey wheels with

spindles:
− Ergonomically shaped crank handles
− Crank handle knobs coloured to suit the
other controls of the overrun device
− Excellent durability through the use of hot-
galvanised tubes
− Rolled spindles with acme threads ensure
special stability
AL-KO jockey wheels with quick-action

spindles
The jockey wheel is equipped with a double
spindle. This double spindle consists of two
spindles with different thread pitches. Friction
conditions ensure that the quick-action thread
starts first.
Method of operation:
− Starts with quick-action winding up or down
− When resistance occurs as the wheel being
lowered contacts the ground, the unit
changes to normal action
− As the unit is raised and the end of the
quick-action travel is reached, the unit
changes to normal action.
A brief jolt may occur when switching

over to normal action.
Continue raising the wheel with the

normal action until the locking spring
engages.
06-4
6.3.2 Special version for heavy car
trailers
For heavy car trailers with a total weight of up

to 3500 kg, AL-KO offer a jockey wheel with a
load capacity of 500 kg.
It is usual practice is to give the static

load capacities only. When
manoeuvring(= dynamic loading), the
load capacity is reduced by up to 300
kg.
Additional features of the AL-KO jockey

wheels for heavy car trailers:
− Thrust bearing for easier crank operation
− Retractable jockey wheel complies with
UVV regulations
− Clearly audible ratchet engagement makes
for easy locking of the jockey wheel
Special wheels for excellent manoeuvring

characteristics. The wheel on these jockey
wheels is rounded in shape.
Advantages on hard surfaces: excellent
manoeuvring characteristics
Advantages on soft surfaces: broad contact
area
06-5
6.4 Prop stands and adjuster
spindles
Applications
AL-KO prop stands may be used in the most
varied situations:
− as an economical alternative to the trailer
jockey wheel
− as additional support for trailers carrying
extreme loads at the rear (e.g. use as
drive-on ramp)
− as a stabilising aid for vehicle lifts, cabins,
compressors, emergency generators, car
trailers and horse boxes
AL-KO prop stands are manufactured in five

different versions:
− rigid prop stand with clamping device for
200 kg load capacity (1)
− rigid prop stand with positive locking
system for 400 kg load capacity (2)
− prop stand with spindle for 400 - 1500 kg
load capacity (3)
− prop stand with spindle and locking device
for 1200 kg load capacity (4)
− adjuster spindle for 400 kg load capacity
(5)
Features of the AL-KO prop stands:

− Safe to operate through use of ball bearing
thrust races
− Thick-walled tube give special durability
− Use of rolled spindles gives excellent
stability
06-6
6.5 Corner steadies
AL-KO corner steadies are produced in three

different versions:
− 800 kg static load capacity, standard
version (1)
− 1000 kg static load capacity, Stabilform
version (2)
− 1000 kg static load capacity, Stabilform
version, quick wind (3)
Features of the AL-KO corner steadies:

− Fitted quickly and easily using the mounting
brackets on the system chassis, secured
with two screws
− Hot-galvanised surfaces for long life
− Excellent stability provided by the use of:
− top-hat sections (standard version)
− extruded sections (Stabilform version)
− ribbed side struts( Stabilform version)
− rolled acme thread spindles (standard and
Stabilform versions)
06-7
AL-KO corner steadies with quick wind
spindles
The corner steady is equipped with a double
spindle. This double spindle consists of two
spindles with different thread pitches. Friction
conditions ensure that the quick-action thread
starts first.
Method of operation:
− Starts with quick-action winding up or down
− When resistance occurs as the wheel being
lowered contacts the ground, the unit
changes to normal action
− As the unit is raised and the end of the
quick-action travel is reached, the unit
changes to normal action.
A brief jolt may occur when switching

over to normal action.
Continue raising the wheel with the

normal action until the locking spring
engages.
6.6 Steady braces
6.6.1 Overview of models
AL-KO steady braces are available in three

different versions:
− 500 kg static load capacity, symmetrical
construction (1)
− 600 kg static load capacity, asymmetrical
construction for front left or rear right fitting
(2)
− 600 kg static load capacity, asymmetrical
construction for front right or rear left fitting
(3)
Features of the AL-KO steady braces:

− Supplied without fastening materials
06-8
6.7 Vehicle jacks
AL-KO vehicle jacks (1) are used in

conjunction with bolted-on jacking points (2)
on the frame. This effectively prevents
slipping.
Features of the AL-KO Side Lift Jack

− Lift height 85 mm to 375 mm, variable
− Side forces on the frame minimised by the
swivelling design of the jack insertion fitting
− Static load capacity up to 800 kg
(maximum lift 1600 kg)
Features of the AL-KO Scissor Jack

- Lift height 110 mm to 340 mm, variable
6.7.2 Fitting operations
Holes for jacking point fittings
From 1991 onwards, every AL-KO chassis is

equipped as standard with the appropriate
mounting holes (3) on the side members for
attaching the jacking point fittings.
On all other vehicles from 1980 onwards, the

mounting holes are drilled by the user
according to the instructions provided.
06-9
6.8 Spare wheel carrier
As most breakdowns with trailers are caused

by tyre damage, it is recommended that a
spare wheel carrier (1) and vehicle jack should
be carried on the trailer at all times.
Features of the AL-KO spare wheel carrier:

− Fitting close to the axle and light weight
cause minimum impairment of handling
− Under-floor mounting gives unimpeded
storage space
6.8.2 Determining the Correct Size
AL-KO Spare Wheel Carriers are available in

three sizes. To determine which size is
suitable, first measure the distance between
the chassis members (Fig. 1). You will also
need to measure the ‘X’ dimension (Fig. 2)
and have details of the specific wheel and tyre
that is fitted to the caravan and refer to Fig. 3
for suitable tyre sizes.
06-10
6.9 Brake rod steadies
On the road, the free-hanging rods of the

brake linkage are able to swing. The swinging
is transmitted to the Bowden cables of the
axle, causing insignificant but undesirable
braking of the trailer. This means reduced
performance, additional brake lining wear and
reduced car and trailer safety.
AL-KO brake rod steady, front
The brake rod steady, front (1) is attached

to a suitable point under the trailer floor. A
neat guide is provided for the rod and the
braking system operates only when braking is
actually required.
AL-KO brake rod steady, rear

The brake rod steady, rear (2) is simply
screwed onto the rod and then fed through
the axle abutment (3). This means that un
wanted braking caused by the weight of the
brake rods and equalisers is avoided.
06-11
7 Tools and Lubricants
7.0.1Tools and aids for service
stations
Description Prices in £, nett Part

Number
Euro-axle tool set (for flange nut) consisting of:
1 torque wrench 60 – 300 Nm £125.00 + VAT 601203
1 adapter, 1/2" to 3/4" + Carriage
3 sockets, sizes 32 / 36 / 41
Drift for protective cap / fitting dust caps £12.50 + VAT
For wheel brakes 1637 and 2051 + Carriage 603751
For wheel brake 2361 603752
Brake drum remover
for removing and fitting brake drums on wheel brake 2361 605267
Tool for fitting AMC torsion bar axle
for removing and fitting round torsion bars 1211430
BTR version
Staking tool for collar nut 690342
Tools for overrun devices Prices on application
Reamers for reaming drawbar bushes (plastic bushes)
Reamer for 35 mm diameter drawbar 247440
7.0.2 Lubricants and servicing products
Description Prices in £, nett Part

Number
LZ corrosion protection 800057
100 / 150 ml
for threaded holes
brake drums
braking surface
brake drums
Poligrat zinc cleaner
No. 162-4240
approx. 0.6 litre 800061
for removing white corrosion on frame sections, shaft,
overrun housings
HSP 1400 high temperature lubricant
for wheel brake components, e.g. expanders, adjusters,
automatic reverse Order through Würth Würth part no.
893.123
HTS Asobon high temperature lubricant
for Bowden cables etc. Order through Würth Würth part no.
893.123
Shell Retinax LX2
400 g cartridge
for AMC torsion bar axle bearings 800075
07-1
7.0.3 Test tools / measuring
equipment
Description Prices in £, nett Part Number
Test ball, 49 mm Price on Application 1.310.055
07-2
Table of contents
Page No.
1 Towball couplings 01-1
1.1 Function and construction of the towball couplings 01-1
1.1.1 Function 01-1

1.1.2 Construction 01-1
1.2 Maintenance 01-3
1.2.1 Checking functions 01-3

1.2.2 Operating notes (first time use) 01-5
1.2.3 Lubrication 01-5
1.3 Repair 01-6
1.3.1 Towball coupling 01-6

1.3.2 AKS 1300 Stabilisers 01-11
1.3.3 AKS 2000/2500/2700 Stabiliser 01-13
I-1
Table of contents
Page No.
2 Overrun devices
2.1 Function and construction of the overrun device
2.1.1 Function 02-1

2.2 Maintenance

2.3 Repair
2.3.1 Removing the handbrake lever 02-2

2.3.2 Installing the handbrake lever 02-4
2.3.3 Removing the spring cylinder 02-6
2.3.4 Installing the spring cylinder 02-6
2.3.5 Removing the overrun lever 02-7
2.3.6 Installing the overrun lever 02-7
2.3.7 Removing the manoeuvring handle 02-7
2.3.8 Installing the manoeuvring handle 02-7
2.3.9 Removing the jockey wheel and clamp on the Euro overrun device 02-7
2.3.10 Installing the jockey wheel and clamp on the Euro overrun device 02-8
2.3.11 Removing the breakaway cable 02-8
2.3.12 Installing the breakaway cable 02-9
2.3.13 Removing the bellows 02-9
2.3.14 Installing the bellows 02-10
2.3.15 Removing the drawbar bearings 02-10
2.3.16 Installing the drawbar bearings 02-15
2.3.17 Removing the damper 02-19
2.3.18 Installing the damper 02-22
2.3.19 Removing the connector holder on the Euro overrun device 02-26
2.3.20 Installing the connector holder on the Euro overrun device 02-26
I-2
Table of contents
3 Axles and brakes Page No.
3.1 Function and construction of the axles
3.1.1 Function 03-1

3.1.3 Different types of axle 03-1
3.2 Function and construction of the wheel brake
3.2.1 Function 03-4

3.3 Maintenance
3.3.1 Maintenance intervals 03-7

3.3.2 Maintenance work 03-8
3.4 Repair
3.4.1 Removing the brake drum 03-14

3.4.2 Installing the brake drum 03-14
3.4.3 Removing the stub axle 03-15
3.4.4 Installing the stub axle 03-16
3.4.5 Removing the Euro wheel brake assembly (not on standard axles) 03-17
3.4.6 Installing the Euro wheel brake 03-18
3.4.7 Dismantling the wheel brake 03-19
3.4.8 Assembling the wheel brake 03-21
3.4.9 Measuring and adjusting toe-in 03-25
3.4.10 Fitting dampers 03-31
I-3
Table of contents
4 Height adjustable overrun device with towing hitch Page No.
4.1 Function and construction of the variable height overrun device
4.1.1 Function 04-1

4.2 Maintenance

4.3 Repair
4.3.1 Removing the ball coupling 04-4

4.3.2 Installing the ball coupling 04-4
4.3.3 Removing the towing eye 04-5
4.3.4 Installing the towing eye 04-5
4.3.5 Removing the bellows 04-5
4.3.6 Installing the bellows 04-5
4.3.7 Removing the drawbar bearings 04-5
4.3.8 Installing the drawbar bearings 04-5
4.3.9 Removing the damper 04-7
4.3.10 Installing the damper 04-10
4.3.11 Removing the stop 04-10
4.3.12 Installing the stop 04-10
4.3.13 Removing the damping rubber 04-11
4.3.14 Installing the damping rubber 04-11
4.3.15 Removing the handbrake lever 04-11
4.3.16 Installing the handbrake lever 04-11
4.3.17 Removing the breakaway cable 04-12
4.3.18 Installing the breakaway cable 04-12
4.3.19 Removing the overrun lever, upper 04-12
4.3.20 Installing the overrun lever, upper
4.3.21 Removing the overrun lever, lower
4.3.22 Installing the overrun lever, lower
4.3.23 Removing the adjustment aid
4.3.24 Installing the adjustment aid
I-4
Table of contents
5 Safety winches Page No.
5.1 Function and construction of the safety winches
5.1.1 Function 05-1

5.2 Maintenance
5.2.1 Checking cables and straps 05-2

5.2.2 Compulsory check by specialist (at least once a year) 05-2
5.2.3 Maintenance work 05-2
5.3 Repair
5.3.1 Removing the crank handle 05-4

5.3.2 Removing the covers 05-6
5.3.3 Removing the brake discs and ratchet wheel 05-6
5.3.4 Removing the pawl 05-6
5.3.5 Removing the drive shaft 05-8
5.3.6 Removing the gear wheel and bearing 05-9
5.3.7 Removing the drum 05-9
5.3.8 Installing the drum 05-11
5.3.9 Installing the intermediate pinion and bearing 05-11
5.3.10 Installing the drive shaft 05-12
5.3.11 Installing the pawl 05-14
5.3.12 Installing the brake discs and ratchet wheel 05-14
5.3.13 Fitting the covers 05-14
5.3.14 Installing the crank handle 05-15
5.3.15 Replacing cables and straps 05-16
I-5
Table of contents
6 Accessories Page No.
6.1 Dampers
6.1.1 Overview of range 06-1
6.2 AL-KO Safety security devices

6.2.2 Fitting the device (illustrations show the AKS 2000) 06-3
6.3 Jockey wheels with spindles

6.3.2 Special version for heavy car trailers 06-5
6.4 Prop stands and adjuster spindles
6.5 Corner steadies
6.6 Steady braces
6.7 Vehicle jacks

6.7.2 Fitting operations 06-9
6.8 Spare wheel carrier
6.9 Brake rod steadies
I-6
Table of contents
7 Tools and lubricants Page No.
7.0.1 Tools and aids for service stations 07-1

7.0.2 Lubricants and servicing products 07-1
7.0.3 Test tools / Measuring equipment 07-2
I-7

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Workshop Manual

AL-KO Kober Limited

Tel: 01926 818500

copyright of AL-KO Kober Limited

The individual chapters give an overview of

Conventions used in the description

Lists always begin with a dash (-) or a number

- Handbrake system (1)

Instructions for operations always begin with a

“Note” applies to special technical

“Caution” is used to mark working procedures

Chapter 1 “Towball couplings”

Chapter 2 “Overrun devices”

Chapter 3 “Axles and brakes”

Chapter 4 “Variable height overrun device

Chapter 5 “Safety winches”

Chapter 7 “Tools and lubricants”

The coupling is the connecting link

AK 160 / 300 / 350

• Place the coupling onto the towball of the

Safe coupling indicator

• Insert the test ball (1) (minimum diameter

• Insert the test ball (1) (minimum diameter

The test ball and the ball of the

If the coupling or towball is

Friction pads on the AKS 1300

• Hitch up the coupling

With older towing vehicles, the

Friction pads on the AKS 2000/2500/2700

• Hitch up the coupling

Testing the stabiliser lever on the AKS 1300

• Hitch up the coupling

Testing the handwheel on the AKS 1300

• Hitch up the coupling

Creaking noises on the AKS 1300 / 2000/

The friction pads of the AKS 1300 / 2000/2500

Towball of the towing vehicle for the AKS

• For the stabilising action, the towball must

Every 10,000 – 15,000 km or every 12

• Components must be cleaned before oiling

1 Grease the ball cup joint

On the AKS 1300/AKS 2000/2500/2700

Coupling type details must not be painted over

Removing the coupling

• Pull the bellows (1) off the rear attachment

The retaining pin keeps the eye of

With different types of overrun,

The tightening torque values for grade 8.8

The tightening torque for all

Overrun device type Tightening torque

Installing the coupling

• Insert the spacer tube into the drawbar

The screws and nuts on the AKS

• Check that the damper operates by

When inserting the rear

Always fit the horizontal bolts

Do not re-use self-locking nuts.

• Place the reinforcement plate of the

For stability, a distance piece