Olt March 2022 PDF

i n d i a ’ s no.
1
T r av e l
magazine
march 2022• L150 www.outlooktraveller.com
Itchy
Feet
Volume 22
Issue 3
Chanderi
Hidden gems of the
temple town
Chandratal
Travelling
From the Himachal
highlands
neverBefore
Photo
Essay
Best from around
like
the world
Experiences that young travellers crave
Unmissable Food trails Bed, Breakfast Travelling being

experiences & Journeys Vegan
8 904150 800003 03
i t ’ s n o t w h e r e ——— i t ’ s h o w
march Itcy
Feet
eat
Volume 22
Issue 3
explore “Jobs fill your

26 The List pockets, adventures
Team OT fill your soul ”
— Jamie Lyn Beatty
26 Unmissable Experiences
Adrenaline-fuelled experiences
for millennials with itchy feet
The Trans Bhutan trail has

opened after 60 years
36 Food Trails
Moving beyond the conventional
choices
50 Bed & Breakfast

From a budgeted accommodation
Compass
to a luxurious stay
56 Vegan Journeys
Team OT 14 Man In Europe upon
overcoming fear
All about veganism and what’s it
like to travel being vegan 16 wheeling solo In tiger
country, spotting a wild cat
60 Chanderi
Adya Parashar
Discovering hidden gems in the
lands of ruins
66 Chandratal
Japnit Kaur Sidhu
All about the alpine meadows
and snowy highlands
18 just back from
70 Across the Globe Menchukha’s rugged beauty
The best of Travel Photography 20 around the block
of the Year (TPOTY) Awards Puducherry
Cover photograph: Shutterstock
outlook traveller 3
march
Regulars
4 Editor
Ashish Jha
eat
Senior Sub-editor
Mallika Bhagat
copy editor
saptak choudhury
Senior Features Writer
Simrran Gill
Consulting Editor
Anuradha Sengupta
Senior Contributing Writer
Uttara Gangopadhyay
Group Design Director
Deepak Sharma
Photo Editor
Shruti Singh
Deputy Art Director
Rehana Farhan Shaikh
Business Office
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
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PUBLISHER
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Marketing Director
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Asst. General Manager
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Regional Manager
↑ Celebrations at the Jaipur Literature Festival 81 Kapil Dhal (North)
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back Arun Kumar Jha (east)

Manoj Kamble (West)
80 books ← The Jaipur Production
Excerpt from the Blind Matriarch Literature General manager

Shashank dixit
Festival will be
81 author interview held in a
Manager
Sudha sharma
Namita Gokhale hybrid mode Associate Manager

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this year 81
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Released on 01-03-2022
Total no. of pages 80 + Covers
4 march 2022
It’s a generational
front
thing…
L ETTE R
T hat’s a nice image on

the cover, isn’t it?
The desire to go
A lot of you would perhaps beyond the usual, that
E DI T OR’S
think what’s so special in

it — a travel magazine ought keenness to soak in
to bring out such covers. But the sense of peace
there might be some who’d
know, and agree with why I in adventure — it’s
stress on this aspect.
It’s rather normal for
beautiful
international magazines
or adventure journals to A middle-aged woman reflected laughingly on the
publish such attention- ‘dress-code’ for the train travels and another became
grabbing covers. In India, and excited recalling the rise of corporate travel through the
especially for a homegrown 90s and noughties. Every generation adds a unique element
media title, things were very to the industry of travelling, and the latest generation has
different till a few years made it the most colourful and dynamic I reckon.
ago. The spike in adventure The desire to go beyond the usual, that keenness to soak
activities and travelling in the sense of peace in adventure — it’s beautiful, and we
for the desire to experience must thank the Millennials and Generation Z for seeking
something unique is a fairly unconventional experiences. There have been adventurers
recent phenomena. all through the generations — some brilliant ones, in fact
I’d written a column in our sister publication, Outlook, — but this young generation of travellers is making it a
about how travel has evolved over the last seven decades. social movement.
There were fascinating conversations that I had with Most of the travel industry reports and studies that
people across age groups and interests. Some were come out illustrate one common reality — people seek
seasoned luxe travellers, some moved about only for offbeat experiences and unique destinations. In our
business and then there were those who explored lands editorial meeting we had a few crazy ideas, but we finally
because it became their passion. thought, why not keep things simple and list out some
They were from across generations — Boomers, Gen-Xers, unique places and experiences for our readers? And that’s
Millennials and the young ones from Generation Z. There exactly what we’ve done.
was even a gentleman from the ‘silent generation’! That Taking simple decisions is sometimes the toughest. This
one editorial piece afforded me fabulous conversations. I month’s issue is a result of that. Hope you agree with some
wish to gather all those people in a lovely environment and of our choices, and suggest some of yours.
let sharing of experiences flow — that’ll be wonderful!
Through these conversations I realised that travellers
in every generation have pushed the envelope in their
unique ways.
The elderly recalled the period of the 50s and 60s
being quite strange. India had attained freedom from
Ashish Jha @AJ2eets
the clutches of the British not too long ago, and was
undergoing a radical change — not only of the political
kind, but also geographical, cultural, social, economic,
and behavioural.
6 march 2022
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
through excavations at Lalitgiri and Udayagiri the triangle overlooking a river of Brahmani Lord Buddha, the only of its kind in Odisha
Buddha statue
in ratnagiri(hill by the Archaeological Survey of India. – Chitrotpala river delta in coastal Odisha. and the eastern coast of India. It is now
of jewels)is the Excavations at the foothill of the Assia range being displayed at the site museum. Another
Ratnagiri, a Mahayana Buddhist site was a
site of ruined
celebrated centre for learning philosophy have unearthed a treasure of Vajrayana attraction of Lalitgiri is the apsidal chaitagriha
mahavihara,once
the major Buddhist and theology. The monasteries at Ratnagiri is deities, two large monasteries, an apsidal made of red bricks, the Buddhist temple from
monastery in the biggest among all historical monasteries temple and the only of its kind Vajrayana the Hinayana Period.
modern Odisha of India (in the 1st millennium CE) filled with
stupa. The location of Udayagiri is dramatic The Buddhist trail in Odisha is incomplete
double storied monastic cells, a central
shrine, numerous deities of Mahayana and set against the backdrop of a honeycombed without visiting the rock-cut elephant at
TRAVEL
TRAVEL
Vajrayana pantheons and a chlorite schist mountain. The entire area is filled with isolated Dhauli, close to Bhubaneswar and the famous
gateway, an architectural splendour. Carved remains of Buddhist relics in the form of battle site of Kalinga. Located on the bank
with minute details depicting various human monastic ruin, sculptures and caves. of River Daya, the forepart of the elephant is
characters the gateway is a visual treat to
Lalitgiri is the oldest site in the triangle carved out of a living rock above the edicts
the eyes. Ratnagiri is also the site where
found a staggering Buddhist Odisha – An and has flourished for the longest duration. of Emperor Ashoka. It is one of the earliest
Architectural Odyssey number of votive On the top of Lalitgiri Hill is located the specimens of Buddhist art symbolizing Lord
stupas, which were offered to dead theras and excavated remains of the maha stupa. From Buddha’s birth from the womb of his mother.
the resident monks after their death. The large here one can have a sweeping view of the Of late the excavations at Langudi Hill
concentration of votive stupas at Ratnagiri
countryside and transported back to an era near the diamond triangle have unfolded
rank next to Bodhgaya, the holiest Buddhist
site in the world. of intense Buddhist civilisation. The maha various mysteries. Panels of stupas and
stupa of Lalitgiri has a prized distinction in rock-cut Buddhist deities from the Mahayana
Ratnagiri also has a site museum exhibiting the entire Buddhist world. In the late 1980s and Vajrayana Period and a stupa from the
the archaeological remains of the hill. when excavation was carried out here, period of Emperor Ashoka are the major
Udayagiri is the largest Buddhist site in archaeologists discovered a relic casket of attraction at Langudi Hill. An inscription found
at Langudi suggests that the site was an
Dhauligiri Shanti Stupa important established at the time of Ashoka.
Archaeologists working on Buddhist sites
of Odisha have speculated that the Langudi
FROM GOLDEN
along with Ratnagiri, Udayagiri and Lalitgiri
once constituted a major university in the
lines of Taxila and Nalanda. The university was
known as Puspagiri and it was referred to by
TRIANGLE TO
the Chinese monk pilgrim, Huen Tsang in the
7th century CE.
The Buddhist heritage of Odisha is
unparalleled in entire India mainly because of
DIAMOND TRIANGLE
its architectural diversity. One also finds here
all branches of Buddhism, the Hinayana, the
Mahayana and the Vajrayana. It is believed
that Vajrayana Buddhism was founded here
by King Indrabhuti, which later spread to Tibet.
Lalitgiri For a traveller having an interest in heritage,
Odisha undoubtedly forms a kaleidoscope of
Buddhist Odisha – An Architectural Odyssey these weavers here are the only traditional
Buddhists left in India. This year Buddha
Buddhist architectural odyssey.
Purnima was celebrated on 26th May. Jitu Mishra is an Archeologist and

The diamond triangle of Odisha consists Co-Founder of Sarna Educational and
JITU MISHRA
T
the diamond triangle, an incredible Buddhist of three clusters of hills in Jajpur and Cultural Services LLP
cluster from the time of the Mauryas in the Kendrapada Districts, namely Ratnagiri,
he golden triangle of 3rd century BCE. The Buddhist civilisation Lalitgiri and Udayagiri. They are located at a
Odisha is widely known of Odisha continued to flourish even after distance of 90 km from Bhubaneswar.
for its majestic Kalinga Buddhism had declined in the rest of India. Until the 1950s, not much was known about
temples. The temples of It may be mentioned here that Buddha the Buddhist heritage of these hills. However,
Odisha are amongst the finest specimens Purnima, a festival commemorating the birth 4 years of intense archaeological excavations
of religious art and architecture in India. of Prince Siddhartha Gautama,is popular in the 1950s opened up an incredible treasure
However, very few know that Odisha is at weaving clusters of Maniabandha and of Buddhist stupas, deities and monasteries
blessed with yet another heritage triangle, Nuapatna villages in the Cuttack District as at Ratnagiri, followed by similar discoveries
Here,
there,
compass
now &
soon
World’s Safest
Cities
OV ERCOM ING FEAR 14 Amid the pandemic, some cities have made sure their
• citizens continue to feel safe
In the woods at panna 16 X WORLD
• The Coronavirus pandemic spurred major changes in our lives,

including the way we eat, travel and live. Cities have had to
become even more vigilant in order to provide greater protection
M ench u k ha’s rugged, to its people. To measure these changes in a more direct way,
w in dsw ept beauty 18 Economist Intelligence Unit recently released the 2021 Safe Cities
Index, which ranks 60 cities based on 76 safety indicators across
infrastructure, digital life, personal security, environmental factors
and, of course, health – with pandemic preparedness and Covid-19
mortality included this year. Ranked at the top of the index are
Copenhagen, Toronto, Singapore, Sydney and Tokyo, where
greater focus on citizen safety, environment, infrastructure and
inclusivity has led to growth and satisfaction among the people
even in the face of the pandemic.
Copenhagen, which topped the index, has a new environmental
security pillar, which measures sustainability (including
renewable energy incentives), air quality, waste management
and urban forest cover, which allowed its residents to cope with
the pandemic restrictions. Toronto’s multiculturalism, and its
community-specific vaccination programmes made the city safer.
The Safe Cities Index was first launched in 2015 with 44
indicators and 50 cities. Since then, the index has been updated
once every two years, increasing city coverage as well as
strengthening the framework to include emerging challenges.
Photograph: SHUTTERSTOCK
Tales
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
Efforts to clean the
Yamuna and protect
of The
it from further
pollution have picked
Yamuna
up in recent years.
TRAVEL
TRAVEL
But, much still
remains to be done
Delhi’s iconic Signature bridge

constructed over river Yamuna
O
f the many tributaries 7,000 different species of migratory necessary intervention if the river is by organisations and institutions efforts. In addition to these, a tertiary Top: Vishram Ghat at
and streams that join birds from around the world. It remains to be cleaned up in India’s capital such as the Archaeological Society of treatment plant (TTP) with a 20 MLD the bank of river Yamuna in
Mathura
the Ganga, it is probably one of Delhi’s 237 existing wetlands city. Furthermore, Ganga Praharis and India (ASI) and the Aga Khan Trust for capacity aids these efforts in a unique
Below: The Yamuna Biodiversity
Yamuna that is the most that plays such a vital role in ensuring volunteers, both young and old, have Culture today, one can well imagine way. This plant happens to be India’s Park is crucial to replenishing
significant. Not only is it extremely the sustenance of people and taken up the baton of cleaning up how central a role Yamuna must first ‘recycle reuse project’ under the Delhi’s groundwater supply
important to more than one religion, it maintaining the ecological balance all the banks of the Yamuna at various have played in the creation of these Namami Gange programme. The
also drains nearly 40% of the Ganga’s around. points along its course in Delhi. To this sublime architectural constructions. treated, reusable water is then sent
basin — Chambal, Betwa, Tons and Today, however, the river is in dire end, Tree Craze Foundation, a not- *** for use to the Indian Oil refinery in the Yamuna Biodiversity
Ken being some of Yamuna’s own straits in the National Capital Region. for-profit, was able to recruit over a This sense of a city’s heritage being city. This intervention helps stop the Park plays an
tributaries. Almost 57 million people There are many reasons for Yamuna’s million young and willing participants moulded by a river can also be seen in wastage of water resources in a major
depend on the Yamuna for survival, pollution: release of industrial effluents, through the Meri Yamuna, Mere Ghat the ancient city of Mathura — a place way, leading to its conservation.
important role in
and some of India’s most densely household and municipal sewage and programme to aid in these clean-up sacred because of the twin presences replenishing Delhi’s
populated cities lie on the river’s banks solid waste discharge, deforestation drives. of Yamuna and Lord Krishna. There *** supply of groundwater
— Delhi, Prayagraj, Agra and Mathura are a few of the critical ones. For centuries, the river has not just are as many as 25 bathing ghats along Both Mathura and Delhi continue
being a few of them. Under the National Mission for Clean sustained Delhi’s population, many the Yamuna here. The most famous of to be significant, from a religious
The Yamuna enters Delhi near Ganga (NMCG), however, significant of the city’s famed monuments and these, the Vishram Ghat, is dedicated perspective, even in the 21st century.
Wazirabad, then passes through the progress has been made to clean spaces have also been nurtured by to Lord Krishna—it is said that Krishna There’s an important lesson to be
city for 22 kilometres before making the Yamuna. The NMCG along with the river — Red Fort, Humayan’s Tomb retired to this ghat after defeating his learnt from the plight of the Yamuna
its exit. The Yamuna Biodiversity Park the Delhi Jal Board (DJB) has taken and the area now known as Sunder uncle, Kamsa. and the river-conservation efforts in
is located right where the river enters up work on building and upgrading Nursery are only a few of these. The For a city so dependent on Yamuna both cities. If we remain so steadfast
Delhi. As a wetland, its value cannot 13 sewage treatment plants (STPs) river once flowed close to these for livelihood and tourism, it is only to in our religious beliefs and care about
be stressed upon enough. Spread throughout the length and the breadth beautiful monuments, and supplied be expected that the river needs to be them so fervently, there should ideally
over 9,770 hectares, the park plays an of the city. The one at Okhla will have hygienic water to the complexes that protected in Mathura. Two STPs with be no conceivable reason why we
important role in replenishing Delhi’s a capacity of treating 565 million litres contain these monuments for use a capacity of 37 MLD operate and are should neglect the very river that Yamuna requires behavioural changes
supply of groundwater, especially daily (MLD) of sewage—the largest of by their residents. The times may expected to soon be upgraded. A third sustains them. Yet, the state of the regarding water usage on the part of
during the lean periods. Above all, it is its kind in India. Overall, the 13 plants, have changed, but looking at these STP with a capacity of 30 MLD is also Yamuna says otherwise — and it is this the inhabitants of the cities as much as
home to nearly 2,000 different species costing around ₹2,354 crore, will treat monuments, nurseries and gardens being constructed and slated to open callous, irreverent attitude of ours that it requires the dedicated efforts of the
of plants and between 5,000 and 1384.5 MLD of sewage in Delhi — a remarkably restored and maintained to further boost the river conservation needs to change. After all, saving the Namami Gange authorities.
C o m pa s s
Man in
europe
14 N i t in C h a u d h ar y
Overcoming Fear
“I short 10-second jump encapsulated the
t feels like a terrible mistake,” the cheapest public transport. I would
I told myself as I squeezed in the aisle transformative power of a journey. stand in a third-class rail compartment,
seat of the packed flight to Pune. I noticed We need journeys and their my shoulders rubbing against another’s.
my co-travellers whose masks were slipping transformative power more than ever now. There was no fear then. Perhaps it was my
from their noses. This made me angry, and I Fear has been a constant throughout the youth, or pure foolishness, which helped me
realised that I had been an angry, reluctant pandemic years. Yes, we fear to step out. forget being fearful. I remember distinctly
traveller the moment I stepped out of my Not only that, but we are also fearful for the transformation that trip caused, and I
parents’ home in Gurugram to travel to our families’ health, of our languishing overcame my hesitations to travel alone or
Pune, where I was headed to, for a business careers, of our lives slowly slipping by in talk to strangers. I made friends with whom
meeting. I was angry at the cab driver for uncountable Zoom calls. This sustained I stay in contact even today. That month-
carelessly spreading the towels on the seats exposure to fear has not only made us angry long journey made me a traveller and
– it looked messy, and I didn’t trust the car but also mistrustful of others. We judge melted my shyness a little.
was sanitised properly. I was angry at the others, for their actions directly put our Will I take such a trip again in the post-
guard who manned the airport entrance health at risk. pandemic years, I wonder? Perhaps not.
and didn’t ask for a vaccination certificate As the plane took off, I reminded myself I have become a different person – and
or RT-PCR test from any of us who lined of the month-long road trip I had taken definitely not the intrepid traveller I used to
up to enter the airport. I was angry at the across India when I had graduated 16 years be. As this realisation dawned, I opened my
crowd I saw at the airport, ignoring the fact back. I wanted to cover the four corners eyes. The fear-laced anger had altered into
that I added to it. Given the careless nature of the country and travel to the heartland sadness. Yes, I had kept my sanity intact in
of the checks outside, I wondered if any of before starting the corporate grind. The the COVID years. But, overcome with fear of
us could be a lethal Omicron carrier waiting little money I had necessitated that I take venturing out, I have lost the independence,
to infect the rest. the confidence to travel. Forget about
Now, inside the plane waiting for it striking up a conversation with an
to take off, I was irritated with the file unmasked stranger. This latent fear of
of people streaming in and how packed the ‘other’ has become a constant now.
the whole flight was. Keen on taking It’s easier to sit inside closed doors
a business meeting in person, I had than to get up and go. But that’s not an
decided to head to Pune. I should have option anymore, at least for me. Doing
never ventured out, I chastised myself so would mean becoming a closed
repeatedly. I closed my eyes and forced version of myself – an older Nitin, who
myself to take long breaths. It was had transformed with the travels to
then that I realised the emotion I was far-off places and by surviving – even
experiencing and that came interlaced thriving – in alien settings. It’s time
with anger – fear. for me to get back out there. Travel,
I have not felt so trapped, so alone, at least for me, still holds the power
so isolated in all my travels in the last to transform, to amaze, to inspire and
20 years as I have done in the last two. make bonds. It’s an antidote to the fear
Not even when I stood on the edge of that I was experiencing.
a cliff in Norway five years back, tied Realising this, I turned around to
to a rope, waiting to jump. There then, speak to the person sitting next to
the fear was paralysing. Still, I stepped me. He couldn’t see my smile hidden
ahead and off the cliff. That bungee beneath the mask, but I would strike up
jump was transformative. For those 10 a warm conversation still. Perhaps, he
seconds, I watched the fear inside me needs me as much as I need him. T
so closely that it failed to scare me as ← The round tower in Copenhagen
much as I had thought it would. That Illustration: Nitin Chaudhary
14 march 2022
C o m pa s s
wheeling
solo
16 Ro h i t h A s h o k
A Morning in Tiger Country

Photograph: Shutterstock
↑ Panna National Park is great for tiger sightings
“D coming from the eastern side,” he said while quickly, sir. This call is very close.” We reached
o you hear that?” asked
Devendar, our driver and guide simultaneously putting the pedal to the the location — and this time, he insisted that
on an early morning safari in Panna metal. Ten minutes later, we parked beside we wait. Ten minutes passed in complete
National Park. “That’s a warning call from a three other safari vehicles. All the guides silence. By the time, the 20-minute mark
sambar deer — a predator is nearby!” scoured the horizon in search of the elusive passed, I began to lose hope.
We had entered the park under the cloak predator. But, there was nothing to be seen. And then it happened. Devendar tapped
of darkness on a cold January morning. This whole routine was repeated eight me on the shoulder, pointing to the left
When the sun eventually came up, only a more times, at least, without any luck. And of the vehicle. Less than 100 metres away,
few warm rays trickled down through the by the time we took a break to eat an hour there was some movement in the grass. A
dense cover of trees. We drove through few seconds later, a male tiger appeared. He
the forest for nearly two hours, bouncing We entered the park paused to watch a few birds in flight and
around on the back of an open Gypsy until under the cloak of then continued his masculine strut without
we reached more open grasslands. darkness and later only a paying any attention to us. Almost as
Chital strolled across the trails casually, few warm rays trickled quickly as he had appeared, he vanished.
while the more cautious sambar chose Seeing a tiger in real life was entirely
down through the trees
to watch us from a safe distance. A wild surreal for me. It is truly an embodiment
boar was busy digging, trying to find later, I was beginning to wonder whether of grace and composure. While I am yet
a wholesome breakfast, completely these ‘warning calls’ were real. Could it just to entirely process the magnificence of
unperturbed by the vehicle parked close be pretence to make the experience more what I saw that morning, I can tell you
by. The peacocks and langurs arrived in exciting for tourists? After all, it’s definitely this much — it was thrilling, and instantly
numbers to bask in the sun — defrosting, I nicer to believe you ‘almost saw a tiger’ than addictive. Instead of simply ticking a
assume, after what had been an extremely to think that you travelled all the way to sighting off my bucket list, I am now
cold night. The sounds of the jungle grew just see deer, right? hooked. I know that I will keep going back
louder with every passing minute. Turns out, I couldn’t have been more for more — and I will be forever grateful to
Once again, Devendar heard something wrong. As we were packing up the boxes, live in a country where there are so many
I didn’t — another warning call. “It is Devendar’s ears perked up again. “Let’s go opportunities to do so. T
16 march 2022
M
Photograph: shutterstock
↙ The verdant enchukha blew me
meadows of away — literally and
Radar
Menchukha
figuratively.
Along with 12 others, I reached
Menchukha after a head- and ear-splitting
just back
18
helicopter ride from Dibrugarh. My first
view was all kinds of beautiful. It is a pretty
j u st ba ck
valley carved by the Siyom, a tributary of
the Brahmaputra, in the Shi Yomi district
of Arunachal Pradesh. From Menchukha’s
airstrip, on which we landed, one can vividly
see the olive green and brown mountains
and, further beyond, towering grey-white
snow-capped peaks.
Menchukha is extremely windy —
Shetland-like, but not quite as dreary.
Thankfully, we were quickly ushered into
SUVs. As we made our way up the steep
incline en route to the hotel, meadows,
homely wooden cottages with red and blue
roofs and Tibetan prayer flags fluttering in
the wind met my eye wherever I looked.
The journey to the hotel painted an
↓ A panoramic, ↑ The entrance
intriguing picture of Menchukha. The expansive view of to the monastery
town seems to be at a peculiar crossroads Menchukha above the hotel
of antiquity and modernity. “Traditionally,
the region was well-known for the spiritual no surer indication of Menchukha’s The next morning, I woke
healing powers of the waters of the Siyom. burgeoning status as a tourist destination up to a glorious sunrise
The word Menchukha itself refers to this than the fact that today, homestays can be
that bathed the valley
— men, meaning medicine, chu, meaning found in nearly every street of the town. We
the water from streams and rivers, and kha, were put up in The Myst Boutique Hotel, a
in light. I gazed at the
meaning snow,” explained Moyir Riba, our cosy three-storey, villa-like building that mountainside where
guide, on the way to the hotel. However, opened its doors in February 2021. The staff concrete blocks proudly
a realisation of its tourism potential was gracious and welcoming — and the spell out "Menchukha". It
has led to a significant improvement in room, large and warm. The combination of
was quite the sight.
its infrastructure. It is now fairly well- the two almost lulled me into forgetting
connected to places such as Aalo, Pasighat that my luggage, packed with all of my
Winds
and Guwahati by highways, in addition woollens and thermals, was yet to make its As dinner wound up, however, I started the hotel. We were also taken to a newly
to the border roads that run through the way from the helicopter to the hotel by the dreading the prospect of freezing to death constructed monastery on the road just
region, since it is roughly 30kms away from time early evening rolled in. at night. I needn't have worried. The above the hotel. It leads to a beautiful spot
the Indo-China border. I also came across Despite the undying efforts of the excellent central heating of the hotel and from where you can have a bird's-eye view
a number of grocery shops selling daily organisers at coordinating with various the wonderfully warm blankets provided of the valley. I gazed at the mountainside
necessities and an impressive number personnel, no trace of the luggage had been by its staff warmed me up sufficiently. The where concrete blocks proudly spell out
of garment shops selling much-needed found till the early evening hours. By night- scalding water may have frozen up in an "Menchukha". "There's a trekking route in
woollens and winter wear. time, I realised that the story had become instant when I went to bathe at night, but I that region. The locals had transported
Still, a number of issues persist. In my common knowledge in the town, with every had a most restful sleep under the blankets. the concrete blocks along that trail from
of Change
short stay, I was able to spot only one bank second person extending their condolences *** the foothills," Moyir had explained the day
branch with an ATM that had quite the and reassurances that it would be found. The next morning, I woke up to a glorious before. It was quite the sight.
queue whenever I crossed it. Even worse Moyir made a convincing argument, albeit sunrise that bathed the valley in light — ***
is the poor state of internet and mobile one made partly in jest: “A one-day stay in which I had missed the previous day. Along Back in the helicopter on my way back to
connectivity. Only BSNL provides cellular Menchukha is totally insufficient to explore with it came the news that my luggage had Dibrugarh, a bittersweet, wistful mood
Even in the ab sence of sufficient woollens, Saptak services in remote Menchukha, while the its charms and riches. I wish you could been found — in the helicopter itself! came over me. My mind kept going back to
Choudhury found himself swept off his feet by region seems to be perpetually trapped in stay a day or two more. And if the missing In the few hours I had before the Moyir's words — "I wish you could stay a day
Menchukha’s rugged, windswept beauty some kind of internet black hole. luggage is the instrument that makes this helicopter took us back to Dibrugarh, I or two more." At that moment, I couldn't
Homestays, however, are a most welcome happen, so be it — you should consider it basked in the glory of the spectacular views help but wish that the bag had remained
sight in Menchukha. And there can be your good fortune.” of the valley from the open courtyard of lost a few days more. T
18 march 2022 outlook traveller 19

C o m pa s s
C o m pa s s
Time to Eat 1 Cafe Xtasi Enjoy the 3 Appachi Regional
Street photography and
best pizza in town Chettinad cuisine
city trails
Puducherry architecture
20
A B Indian • Chettinad •
French • Pan-Asian 2 Cafe Des Arts 4 Bay of Buddha Rooftop
French War Sri Varadaraja PERUMAL
• Italian French fare and coffee dining with pan-Asian fare
memorial Temple
Memorial dedicated Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, this
to the war heroes temple is also famous for its
c i t y t r a ils
of World War I who Dravidian patterns, the gopuram
sacrificed their lives (monumental tower) at the front
X Union territory to save the country and sculptured towers
of PUDUCHERRY C Basilica of the E Sri Aurobindo
Sacred Heart of Ashram
Puducherry
Heart of the City Jesus
A serene community
A Catholic church, ashram founded by
specimen of Gothic Aurobindo Ghose
architecture
F Mahatma Gandhi
statue
Built by the famous
sculptor Roy
D Serenity Beach Choudhury from the
A former French One of the most Madras School of Arts
French Colony colony, 1
and Crafts, it is one of
beautiful beaches,
•• Puducherry sits Cycling in White Town it is ideal for a quick the major landmarks in
quietly on the Bay Known for the French swim Puducherry
Puducherry’s of Bengal. We colonial-era villas that line
Iconic Eateries explore the
its streets, White Town has
everything - from quirky
•• beautiful beaches, cafes to craft shops that can
Auroville
crumbling
be explored on a bike tour
So Much 2 Auroville 4 Seaside promenade
cathedrals and To Do A universal township

in the making, this
Enjoy a leisurely walk at
this popular beachfront
•• quaint eateries
Scuba diving,
that give colour to place is the epitome of 5 aquatic Adventures
Walk Through gardens, cycling
this vibrant tranquility and proves
and more! Enjoy dives at both natural
History 2
to be the perfect escape
tourist destination and artificial reefs
•• for those in search of
Compiled by peace
Bar/Café MALLIKA BHAGAT
3 Botanical Garden
Hopping
The best way The Botanical Garden
•• to explore (or Le Jardin Botanique)
Puducherry is has around 1500 plant
Cycling Tours Puducherry either on foot varieties along with
eat is most
D or on bicycles a musical fountain, a
explore accessible by
road, either by toy-train ride and an
experience Puducherry bus or taxi aquarium for a fun
B day out
E 4
Puducherry 3
1 2 F
3 A 4
airport has All stops are C
1
few flights within 10 5
from major minutes of

cities each other
Chennai is
the closest
major travel
base with the
airport being
135 kms from Villupuram, the nearest railway station
Punducherry to Puducherry, is 35 kms away
20 j u ly 2 0 2 0 outlook traveller 21
Explore
Explore
R e g u l a r
R e g u l a r
Life is short,
explore
and the world
is wide
ex periences of a lifetime 26
•
beyon d the conventional food choices 36
•
There are journeys we take and then there are bed, break fast and jou rneys 50
journeys we take that define us. With the landscape
of travel changing at lightning fast speed, the •
options and the opportunities to undertake journeys
that define us are plenty. And benefitting from this TRAV ELLING AS A V EGAN 56
dynamic world of travel are millennials — mostly
in constant search of their next best adventure. •
Whether an adrenaline-fuelled vacay or a week of
slow, immersive travel, a luxurious stay or a night ch anderi and its hidden secrtes 60
backpacking in a hostel, everything is right up their
alley and they rarely shy away from any of it. •
h ighlands and alpine meadows 66
•
visuals from across the globe 70
Photograph: shutterstock
Left: Shore Temple,
Hues of
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
Mahabalipuram,
stands proud as
an architectural
wonder
Culture
Chettinad cuisine
takes its name from
the eponymous
TRAVEL
TRAVEL
region, which
was home to the
Chettiar community
of traders
of martial art) are some of the entertaining

forms of folk performances.
The culinary heritage of Tamil Nadu
has remained mostly unsung. The state
has a rich repertoire of vegetarian dishes,
including a range of chutneys and pickles.
One of the specialized branches of Indian
cuisine that evolved here is Chettinad
cuisine, which includes vegetarian and
non-vegetarian dishes. The cuisine
takes its name from the eponymous
The Nilgiri Mountain Railway was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005 region, which was home to the Chettiar
community of traders, whose food culture
From architectural marvel of its temples to the fascinating culinary

includes secular compositions such as of Chidambaram are among the best was highly influenced by that of the foreign
court poetry written by the stalwarts of sources about the dance form. The town countries and merchants they treaded
spread, Tamil Nadu is a land of infinite cultural richness

the literary academies. Compositions also hosts the annual Natyanjali Festival. with.
r
such as the ‘Thikural’ (a book containing Another popular dance festival is the One of the best ways to learn about
couplets or aphorisms on virtue, wealth, Mamallapuram Dance Festival. Besides, the heritage and culture of the state is
ich in history, literature, and cut cave temples, monolithic temples, - Conoor and Ooty, is also part of the love, etc.) authored by poet Thiruvalluvar Chennai also hosts many classical dance to observe the traditional festivals. The
culture, Tamil Nadu is firmly bas-relief sculptures, and structural Unesco Heritage awarded Mountain (whose statue is seen on a rock off and music programs. harvest festival of Pongal is celebrated
rooted in its heritage no matter temples were built between the 6th and Railways of India. Kanya Kumari) and Cilappatikaram are Not quite known beyond the state, Tamil across the state. It is the time when people
how modern a state it is. The 9th centuries under the Pallava rulers. In Built by the Nayaka rulers (16th -17th considered gems of early Tamil literature. Nadu also has a rich legacy of folk dance decorate their houses with colored powder
history of the state spreads over a few 2004, UNESCO awarded World Heritage centuries), the Meenakshi Temple Another famous poet was Kampan, and music performed during religious and (kolam) and boil the newly harvested rice
millennia, during which many dynasties Site status to what is collectively known of Madurai is a splendid example of who wrote Kambaramayanam or the social functions, they also form part of in milk with jaggery. This three-tofour-day
ruled the region. Beginning with the as the Great Living Chola Temples Dravidian temple architecture. The Tamil version of the epic Ramayana. popular entertainment. Therukothu (street festival is marked by special rituals. One of
Sangam era and nurtured by the Pallava, which were built between the 11th ancient Ramanathaswamy Temple of Modern Tamil literature and writing owe play), Kavadi, the dummy horse dance, Tamil Nadu’s traditional spectator sports,
Chera, Chola, and Pandya dynasties, the and 12th centuries. It consists of three Rameshwaram is known for its elaborately a lot to Subramaniya Bharathi, who also the peacock dance, silambattam (a form Jallikattu, is also organized during this
region has seen tremendous development temples – the Brihadeeshwara Temple built and carved corridors, which rank participated in India’s struggle for freedom. time. Although the event has its detractors,
in architecture, literature, performing arts, at Thanjavur, the Brihadisvara Temple among the longest corridors in the world. Temples in Tamil Nadu have also it is very popular across rural Tamil Nadu.
and regional cuisine. at Gangaikondacholapuram, and the There are innumerable such ancient been instrumental in developing the Another popular festival is the Chithirai
The most prominent example of Tamil Airavatesvara Temple at Darasuram. Once temples scattered throughout the state. state’s performing arts. The bulk of Festival of Madurai, which is an enactment
Nadu’s legacy is its architectural heritage. at Thanjavur, one cannot miss the famous Temple towns such as Kanchipuram, what is today known as Carnatic Music of the divine wedding of Goddess
From rock-cut caves to intricately carved art and craft that flourishes here which Chidambaram, and Kumbhakonam are originates here. Rituals and festivals of Meenakshi (an incarnation of Shakti) and
temples, these speak volumes about includes the bronze statues, especially also worth thevisit. temples are not complete without the Sundareshwar (an incarnation of Shiva).
the advanced skill of the craftspeople that of Nataraj (Dancing Shiva) and the Tamil Nadu’s literary heritage dates back orchestra of various traditional musical The state tourism department also holds
who lived here centuries ago. Not far unique Tanjore paintings (known for their to the BCE era, which includes literature instruments. Tamil Nadu is also home various festivals to highlight the cultural
from Chennai is Mahabalipuram, whose gold-coated finish and reminiscent of Tamil from the Sangam period. While early to India’s leading classical dance form – and natural heritage of the state.
Shore Temple and other monuments Nadu’s Maratha legacy). literature abounds in religious writings and Bharatanatyam. According to scholars, the
have been recognized as World Heritage The meter gauge Nilgiri Mountain poetic compositions mostly dedicated to 108 dance poses carved on the eastern Left: The harvest festival of Pongal is
Site by UNESCO in 1984. These rock- Railway, operating between Mettupalayam Shiva and Vishnu, the Sangam literature gopuram (gateway) of the Nataraj Temple celebrated with great excitement
Explore
Explore
26
*
the list
You can fly up to 30 feet in the air, dive
underwater, and then shoot back up and
lis t
lis t
swim like a dolphin
Unmissable
th e
th e
Flyboarding
Experiences
in Goa
The next time you are in Goa, try water sports
such as flyboarding for a king-sized experience
The best months to try Flyboarding
are October and May
Flyboarding, a sport invented only in 2012, is a
thrilling activity which allows one to fly through
the air and have a bird's-eye view of the water below.
It is done with two different pieces of equipment:
a flyboard and a personal watercraft. The person's
feet are fastened to the flyboard, which is, in turn,
connected to the personal watercraft through a hose
tied to the flyboard. Because you're suspended in the
water, you can safely ride your flyboard on the water
like you would on land. It might seem intimidating
at first, but the sport actually encourages you to let
go of your inhibitions. It is even friendly to non-
swimmers. Goa happens to be one of the best Indian
locations for flyboarding. Here, some of the state’s
most well-known operators (such as Atlantis Water
Sports and Flyboard India) will help you have a once-
in-a-lifetime experience. The activity is usually
organised on the Chapora river in north Goa.
� When you're flying, try not to glance down since
you can lose your balance
The urge for an adrenaline-fuelled

adventure or a solitude-seeking
escape is undeniable. Here are
Team OT’s suggestions for
millennials with itchy feet!
Photographs: Shutterstock
outlook traveller 27
Community Stargazing in
Explore
Explore
Service in Bhimtal
Auroville Experience a bright night sky filled with hundreds
of glittering stars along with quiet and soothing
lis t
lis t
In the pursuit of higher consciousness and spiritual spectacles in Bhimtal
bliss, you can intern and volunteer here
The stargate observatory in Bhimtal
Best time to visit is between November offers paid services ranging from Rs500 to
th e
th e
and March `10,000
Along the picturesque Coromandel coast of Tamil Nadu Are you someone who loves to watch little dots glistening
is Auroville where you can go to break the monotony and marvel at the night sky changing colours? Do you
of life and escape the grind – even if it’s just for a few have questions on how huge the universe is? Are you
days. Apart from the revered Matrimandir (a place of keen on knowing all about the magic that the night sky
meditation) and the Auro beach, Auroville has a lot holds within? If yes, set yourself up close and personal
more to offer on its plate, and is considered one of the in Bhimtal’s star-studded environs high up on the
most popular tourist destinations in Puducherry. While mountaintop. Adopting its name from Bhima in the
in Auroville, you can try your hand at organic farming Mahabharata, Bhimtal is a town situated in the district of
at Auro Orchard, go on a reforestation drive at Sadhana Nainital in Uttarakhand. It sits at an elevation of 1,370 m
Forest, or practise sustainable agriculture at Buddha above sea level, which makes it extremely convenient for
*
For transactions in Garden to conserve mother nature and live closer to a surreal stargazing experience. For all the astronomy and
Auroville, an Aurocard is earth. Other activities involving sowing seeds, weeding, stargazing enthusiasts, in the midst of the transcending
used instead of money
watering, preparing compost, harvesting vegetables, heaps of Bhimtal, cosmic observatories like the Stargate
washing, and packing fresh produce to take to the Observatory will help you take part in a dream-like
market can also be partaken. stargazing experience with their 45-minute heavenly night
show with the help of a state-of-the-art telescope, in the
company of folktales, food, cocktails and stars twinkling
overhead. You can observe the texture of the surface of the
moon, learn about stars, constellations, and get a photo of
Hike the Trans yourself with the stars in the background which will be
curated by the astrophotographers.
Bhutan Trail � Most stars in the night sky are much larger than our
sun. UY Scuti, one of the largest, can fit 5,000,000,000
suns (5 billion suns) inside it
This natural hiking extravaganza is fit for
history-and-adventure enthusiasts
The Trans Bhutan Trail was the only
genuine route to traverse until the 1960s
March 2022 is about to bring back one of the highly
regarded Buddhist pilgrim trails that is slated to run 60
years after its shutdown. The 250-mile trail, running from
Haa to Trashigang in Bhutan, was one of the sole ways of
travelling and communication across the country until the
1960s, when it was closed down. This ancient trail is now
back with an 11-day tour that millennials must include in The earliest-known
their travel bucket lists. You'll be able to walk some of the constellations in the night sky
best parts of this 403km track, seeing stunning landscapes were drawn and named by the
and walking around communities who have timeless Mesopotamian civilisation,
around 5,000 years ago.
stories from different eras to share. This journey, which
will include lovely camping places and overnight stays
in comfortable local homestay, will provide you with an
insight into Bhutan's rural and spiritual life that can only
be obtained by venturing off the main road.
� International guests will be granted a restricted
number of permits and all the walks will be led by
local guides
Explore
Explore
Scuba Diving in
the Andamans
lis t
lis t
*
Did you know scuba stands Experience the intriguing and mesmerising world
underwater
th e
th e
for self-contained underwater
breathing apparatus?
Best time to visit is from October to
May when the water visibility is at its
best
Andaman is arguably the best destination for scuba
diving in India. It offers ideal ocean conditions,
unparalleled visibility, a rich ecosystem of coral reefs,
and a mind-boggling diversity of unusual and vibrant
marine life. Going 12 metres deep and looking at the
sea anemones, corals, and beautifully patterned fishes
playing peek-a-boo all along makes the experience
surreal and exquisite. Although there are a number
of diving spots in the Andamans, the most famed
and unexplored ones lie in Havelock and Neil Islands.
With its turquoise waves caressing the pristine beach,
Havelock is a visual treat, but usually crowded. Some
of the best spots in Havelock for scuba diving include
Mac Point, Lighthouse, and Barracuda city. If looking
for complete solitude, you should head towards the Neil
Islands. Before conducting the dive, you’ll be taught
breathing techniques and gestures to communicate.
Once you are well acquainted with the techniques, the
instructor will take you into deeper waters.
� The Andaman and Nicobar islands serve as a
humble abode to the largest sea turtles in the world

Nomadic life in a
Explore
Explore
Caravan
Hire a house on wheels – and live in a home far away from
home with a caravan
Be prepared for confined spaces and minimum
lis t
lis t
amenities on the road
Have you ever wondered how fascinating it would feel if you
th e
th e
can travel off the beaten track while enjoying homely warmth
wherever you go? With the advent of caravanning culture in
India, you have a mini (and mobile) abode on vacations. While
making sure that you can be in charge of the little getaways
and group trips, these caravans provide amenities such as a
kitchenette, washrooms, electricity courtesy of solar panels
and batteries, cosy sitter-cum-beds and enough room for your
luggage. Offering freedom and flexibility, caravans let you hit
At Mawsmai Cave, try to wear dark- the roads without compromising on comfort and luxury. Some
coloured clothing as the limestone and of the caravans that you can surely look forward to hiring for
the congested passages tend to leave your next road trip are – LuxeCamper, Trippy Wheels, Camper
stains on lighter clothing. Trails from Bengaluru, Wacation On Wheels from Nagpur,
Motorhome Adventures from Delhi and Keravan Kerala. So, if
you are looking to break the monotony of travelling, a legendary
sojourn on a caravan is our pick.
� Many modern caravans now come integrated with IoT
(Internet of Things) that lets you control all appliances with a
smartphone app
Spot Cave Fishes

in Meghalaya
Embark on an underground journey and be enchanted
by the marine life in the caves of Meghalaya
*
In 2020, the largest-known subterranean fish was Despite being
historically associated
found in a cave in the Jaintia Hills in Meghalaya
with moving bands
Entering a cave in Meghalaya is like opening Pandora’s of Romani people, the
word 'caravan' itself is not
Box. There is no way to know what you'll find there —
Romanian. It comes from
secret pathways, water pools, rivers and caverns can all be the Persian word 'karwan',
discovered even in the most plain-looking cave. What’s meaning nomads
more, a variety of fascinating, unusual, ‘alien’ lifeforms
flourish in the pitch-black darkness of these subterranean
realms. Each cave provides a different experience for
travellers. The Mawsmai Cave, for instance, features rugged
limestone. Krem Mawmluh, on the other hand, offers
narrow openings, sharp rock edges and deep pools of water.
Then, there’s Krem Liat Prah, India’s longest natural cave,
with its gigantic trunk passage called the Aircraft Hangar.
As a kid, if you were dazzled by stories of treasure hunts
and pirates, these caves must be next on your list.
� Make sure to carry a head torch to make
exploration easier
*
Explore
Explore
The Chettiars brought huge amounts
of riches to India in trade with Burma
(Myanmar), Java, Khmer (Cambodia),
Ceylon (Sri Lanka) and Mauritius
Vibrance And
lis t
lis t
Warmth in
th e
th e
Chettinad
Centuries ago, banyan leaves served mostly dishes
juxtaposed with spices like fenugreek, fennel, clove
and freshly crushed turmeric in south India
Chettiar kitchens often offer
beautifully made vintage cookware
The UNESCO-accredited site of Chettinad in Tamil
Nadu has its own cuisine. Originally, the Chettiars,
who settled there around 3,000 years ago, were a group
of traders of salts and spices who were known to be
extremely rich and used to host lavish feasts. The
present-day rendition of their cuisine features some of
the best fish gravies and prawn curries you can taste in
the world. Their well-crafted menu also includes items
such as brain masala, stomach sambols and pepper
chicken along with an exquisite vegetarian banquet
replete with miniature potato fries, appams, idlis,
idiyappams, adais, dosais and dried curries. A trip to the
cluster of 76 Chettinad villages could be worth your
while, if only for tasting the sheer complexity and rich
flavours of spices and condiments mixed in one dish.
Cultures
� In the Sangam era, huge establishments were
created above the sea level to save the spices from
continuous droughts and floods
36
Cuisines
&
the list
Moving beyond regular and

conventional food choices,
Team OT dives into the hot
millennial picks for the season
Explore
Explore
Veganism
Amidst the Odds *
The earliest instances of
vegetarianism are found in
India, as practised by Jains
in the 6th Century BCE
lis t
lis t
Go on a vegan food trail in the different states of India
where cafes and restaurants are promoting vegan
cuisines and culture
th e
th e
It is mandatory to label foods in India as
vegetarian or non-vegetarian, with green
and red dots respectively
Finding vegan food while pedalling across borders can
be hard, but not impossible. While traversing across the
country and choosing a vegan lifestyle, get your hands
on masala dosas, idlis, dal makhani, kofta, rajma, and chole
kulche. Being a land full of varied cultures and food
preferences, India is also famous for culinary tourism, and
it is fairly easy to find vegan and vegetarian food items.
Despite all of its seafood attractions, PETA (People for the
Ethical Treatment of Animals) has also accredited Goa to
be India's most vegan-friendly state with popular vegan
and vegetarian restaurants like Zest, Blue Planet Cafe,
Bean Me Up, Soul Booster Bar, Cafe Tato, Chia Lounge,
among others, that offer a plethora of vegan delicacies.
The Silicon Valley of India, Bengaluru, too has an array of
vegan-friendly and vegetarian restaurants such as Santé
Spa Cuisine, Green Theory, The London Curry House, and
others. Gujarat, Haryana, Rajasthan and Punjab are also
increasingly offering multiple vegan options.
� It takes more than 2,400 gallons of water to
produce one pound of beef, but only 25 gallons to
produce a pound of wheat

Sour and Spice
Explore
Explore
on a Parsi Food
On your way back from
Ladakh, get your hands on
Trail
jars of apricot jam, as they are Flavourful and adequately balanced between sweet
lis t
lis t
100% organic and grown and and sour with some Iranian spice, it would be
processed in the region itself worthwhile to give Parsi cuisine a try
Most Parsi cuisines have nuts. Beware
th e
th e
of allergies
If the Parsis had not arrived on Indian soil and
imbibed it with their wonderful culture, India, as a
whole, would not have been the same. While their
contributions to the economic world are notable, their
distinct gastronomy is as significant. In the states
of Gujarat and Mumbai, especially, its influence has
been paramount. Parsi cuisine is a mix of delicacies
as diverse as the civilisation itself. After moving from
Persia, the group has lived on the Gujarat coast. This
Beyond Momos
unique background gives Parsi food a distinctive taste
due to the amalgamation of gosht (meat), dry fruits
and Noodles in
from its Irani roots, nuts, eggs, potatoes — all seasoned
with a variety of spices. One of the most popular
Ladakh
traditional Parsi dishes is jardaloo salli boti. Using
boneless cubes of meat called boti, this tangy and spicy
Parsi meat is served with store-bought matchstick
Dig in to the rustic and soul-uplifting Ladakhi preparations potatoes called salli. Then there is sali per eedu, which
made of rice, barley, meat and rooted vegetables is the Parsi-Indian version of shakshuka, with a lot
In case of gluten allergy, opt for rice-based of flavours and poached eggs. Mumbai is also quite
options, as barley is a staple crop in the region famed for the Parsi cafes and restaurants such as
Britannia and Co., Cafe Military, and more.
If you thought momos, thukpa and noodles were all there is
to Ladakhi cuisine, think again. There are many sumptuous � Parsis first migrated to India from Iran in the
dishes awaiting your approval, but you could start with the 7th-8th century CE to preserve their culture
and heritage
delightfully aromatic and homely Ladakhi pulao, prepared with
white rice, mutton stock and caramelised onions, carrots
and nuts. You may not find it at the street vendors’,
but it is a mainstay in many Ladakhi households.
Next up is the skyu soup, a comfort dish in which
small, thumb-sized balls of barley or wheat
dough are boiled and cooked slowly along
with root vegetables like potatoes, carrots
and turnips. For a different taste altogether,
give chhurpi a shot. It is a variety of cheese
that is made from yak milk, and comes
in three versions: plain, sweet and salty.
Chhurpi is commonly cherished with an
interesting range of breads and stews such
as the sweet and tangy tingmo, the extremely
thick khambir or even homemade pasta. For
*
Most Parsis communicate
your day’s source of protein, don’t miss dastuk,
through Gujarati or
a homespun porridge of rice, yak milk and butter, English, but their native
salt, pepper, wild greens and capers that is often language is Avestan
considered to be the best meal on chilly winter days.
� Order butter tea with khambir, and have a traditional
Ladakhi tea time to keep your body warm
Feature
Feature
Special
Special
Colour the
Valley ViVid
As synonymous with the blanket of white as winter sets in,
Kashmir is also as much about a colourful canvas of many blooms
and beaming life thanks to the beauty of the season of spring.
Almond Blossom in Kashmir

A
Feature
Feature
s the monochrome winter saying gar firdaus bar roo-e zameen
if you too want to enjoy
gives way to spring, ast, Hameen ast-o hameen ast-o
Kashmir’s hills and meadows hameen ast – if there is a paradise on
this kaleidoscopic play of
begin to turn into a riot of earth, it is this, it is this, it is this. colours, a visit to Kashmir
colours. The ground thaws and tiny Drawn by the natural exuberance in spring is a must
colourful flowers raise their heads and the pleasant weather, the people
Special
Special
among the soft green grass of the of Kashmir pack their picnic baskets
meadows, their stalks swaying merrily and set off for flower viewing and a
in the breeze. Overhead, the sky turns merry outing with family and friends,
into a shining blue. The snow-peaks a practice that has been in place
etched against the horizon dazzle in for ages. Now you know why such
their white raiment. beautiful wicker picnic baskets are haven. From staying in houseboats,
The Mughal gardens of Srinagar sold in the traditional basket weaving taking a shikara ride on the lakes,
breakout into a profusion of blooms. shops of Srinagar. sightseeing, shopping at floating
The countryside is awash with white So if you too want to enjoy this markets or exploring the shops along
and pink flowers of almond, peach kaleidoscopic play of colours, a visit the boulevard, drinking noon chai to
and cherry blossoms, the air fragrant to Kashmir in spring is a must. Pack breaking bread at some of the quaint
with their mild scents. The mustard in some of the must see destinations bakeries, you will be spoilt for choice.
fields join the show with their bright as you explore the flower bedecked The Dal Lake, tucked between the
yellow blooms. Twinkling among the valley. Shankaracharya Hill and Hari Parvat
meadows or covering the hill-sides One of the best places to begin (Koh-e-Maran), is largely the hub of all
are crocuses, hyacinths, snowdrops, your trip is from Srinagar. Easily activities. The shore extends a little
narcissus or daffodils, forsythia, and reached by air and road (and soon by over 15 kilometres with the boulevard
countless other blooms. The beauty rail), the capital of the newly formed lined with Mughal era gardens, parks,
of nature silently echoing the famous Union Territory, Srinagar is a tourist hotels and restaurant, and shops.
Left: The soft rays during

sunset pierce through to
decorate the Zabarwan
forest range at the Dal lake
Above: The colours of
autumn spreading their
beauty in Nishat Garden
Tulips grow in the wild in Pampore Women working in the paddy fields
Feature
Feature
While staying on the shore of the So you have to plan accordingly. spring. Located about 7km away from by their thick cluster of flowers. Apricot Shopian, etc. saffron production. But if you are here
Dal Lake is convenient for travelling Spread over 30 hectares, the garden Srinagar’s Lal Chowk, Badamwari blossom are white in colour, often As you travel through the in spring, you will find an abundance
to and fro, spend at least a night in rises gradually through seven terraced is one of the best places to see the tinged with a pink or reddish hue, and countryside, especially across of peach trees in bloom, clouds of
any of the houseboats on the lake. fields. It is home to about 60 varieties almond blossoms. Enjoy the pale have a pleasant scent. Pampore towards the end of the light pink and purple flowers covering
There are various price categories to of tulips, which are segregated into pink flowers and their fragrance as Fret not if you have not been able season, the bright yellow of the the branches.
suit every pocket and style. Check early, mid, and late blooming varieties. you stroll through the Badamwari to enjoy the cherry blossom viewing mustard fields appear in sharp Spring is also the time when
Special
Special
with the tourism department’s Expect to see over 15 lakh flowers garden in Shahr-e-Khaas. Expect to or Hanami (flower viewing) Festival of contrast to the more subdued hues apples, apricot and pear trees too
information centres to get a list of the bloom this year. Along with tulips, find local people visiting the area, Japan. Take your picnic basket and of the cherry and peach trees. The flower. Srinagar, Badgam, Pulwama,
government-approved houseboats. you are likely to see other varieties their picnic hampers filled with tea, travel to Harwan Garden (19km from Pampore plateau is also known for its Anantnag, Baramulla are known for
The shikaras (traditional row boats), of flowers too, such as hyacinths, bread and other foods. Kashmiris are Srinagar), watered by a canal bordered wild tulips and poppy. their apple orchards.
ferry boarders to and from the shore, daffodils and some species from extremely hospitable people and do with Chinar trees. Here you will find Pampore, about 12km by road from Complement your feast for the
take them on short cruises across the the ranunculus genus. Usually, J&K not be surprised if you are invited to a profusion of cherry trees, their Srinagar, is popularly known for its eyes with a gastronomic exploration.
lake, and even ply as floating shops. tourism department arranges for a participate in their feasting. branches smothered in pink and white Kashmir has an amazing range of
During spring, the dainty shikaras, spring festival during this time to A trip to Charar-e-Sharief (an ancient blossoms. Tailbal (about 13km from breads. There are some excellent
piled high with seasonal flowers and acquaint visitors with the culture, craft shrine, about 40km from Srinagar) Srinagar) and Dara are also known Yusmarg, further bakeries in Srinagar (and a few of
fruits, appear like wee floating gardens and food of the region. Budget some will also reward you with sightings of for their cherry orchards. Kashmir is the smaller towns too) which still
south from here,
among the waters of the Dal Lake. time to explore the various stalls set almond blossoms. Yusmarg, further one of the major growers of cherry bake breads in the traditional way.
Visitors can buy seeds, bulbs and up during this time. south from here, is also known for in India. The fruit is grown in many
is also known for These are mostly reminiscent of the
flowers from them. It is said that the almond blossoms spectacular flowering of almond trees. areas of Kashmir, such as Tangmarg spectacular flowering region’s connection with Central Asia
Kashmir was a favourite holiday are the first to herald the arrival of The pear blossoms can be identified (in Baramulla), Lar (in Gandarbal), of almond trees of yore. Many of them are family run
destination of the Mughals, especially
Emperor Jahangir. The gardens such
as the Shalimar, Nishat and Chashma
Shahi, speak volumes about their
patronage. Built in steps or terraced
fashion, filled with fountains and
channels, these Pleasure gardens
are known for their seasonal flowers.
Spring is one of the best times to
enjoy the profusion of blooms.
During March/April, Kashmir
holds its globally acclaimed tulip
festival. Organised by the J&K tourism
department, it is organised at the
Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden,
located in Siraj Bagh, in Srinagar. The
Zabarwan Mountains overlook the
garden. The flowers bloom within a
short span of time, usually from the
last week of March to middle of April.
Right: Kahwa served with

traditional bread
Kashmiris are
extremely hospitable
people and do not be
surprised if you are
invited to participate in
their feasting
Beautiful view of the landscape from Pari Mahal
Feature
Feature
The colourful and use traditional wood-fired clay
spread of the
tulip garden
ovens. Some of the breads worth
with towering trying are tchot (a flatbread), lawasa
mountains in the (an unleavened thin flat bread)
backdrop
and chochwor (a soft round bread
sprinkled with sesame and poppy
Special
Special
seeds). There are also bakeries who
specialise in recipes preserved from
the British era. Srinagar is also known
for its street food.
Keep a packet of nadir monji – lotus
stem coated in rice flour or chickpea
flour – handy as you explore the many
tourist attractions. Or maybe try a
monji gaade (a snack made of fish).
If you are feeling peckish, you may
try the Masala Tchot (hummus style
channa and radish chutney wrapped in
a lawasa). Another popular dish is the
smoked Kashmiri barbecue, tujje. And
if you are thirsty, there is a range of
teas to choose from, such as the Nun
Chai or Sheer Chai, the many varieties
of Kahwa, etc. If you are looking for
some grand fare, there is modur pulao,
shab deg, gushtaba, etc.
A trip to Kashmir is not complete
without a shopping spree. It is
interesting to find many of the hand
painted designs and embroideries
drawing inspiration from the regional
flora. Some of the popular products
you may buy are hand-knotted
carpets, walnut wood carvings, papier
mache products, chain stitch, crewel
fabrics and utility products (curtains,
cushion covers, bed spreads, etc.), and
pashmina shawls. Although available
in Srinagar, you may also buy saffron if
you are visiting Pampore.
For more details on Kashmir,

you may contact the officials of
Department of Tourism Kashmir
via the website, Instagram, Twitter
or Facebook accounts, or over the
phone by dialling 0194-2502279.
Explore
Explore
Bed
lis t
lis t
50
th e
th e
the list
Hustle It Up
With Hostels
One can travel with a far greater peace of mind
when accommodation expenses are not burning a
hole in your pocket. Hence, enter hostels
&
Carry silk liners and pillowcases to
protect yourself from bedbugs
Breakfast
A plethora of cost-effective hostels in India make
them viable and attractive options for millennials
travelling on a low budget. Some of them even offer
unique experiences. For instance, The Hostel Crowd
offers three different hostels (Jungle, Summer, and
Old Quarter) in various locations in Goa. These are
theme-based, affordable living spaces that also
provide rooftop yoga lessons, shuttle services, Wi-Fi
and guided tours. However, the safest, most reliable
option in India would probably be the ones run
by the Youth Hostels Association of India. Besides
providing nice, economical lodgings to tourists, the
organisation also hosts different state - and national
- level camping and trekking adventures — an added
incentive for thrill - seekers.
� Don’t forget the essentials like ear plugs, eye
masks and padlocks so that you can have an
undisturbed and secure stay
Whether a budgeted
accommodation, or a super
fancy stay, millennials have
their hearts (and pockets) open
to all experiences. Here are
Team OT’s picks
Explore
Explore
Home Is Where
instance, Sunnymead is a lovely colonial-style ancestral
property that was converted into a bed-and-breakfast
Homestays Are
in 2011. It, however, retains the earthquake-resistant
Dhajji architectural style in which it was built — a point
of significant curiosity for the visitors. Other modern
lis t
lis t
Having gone through several makeovers, homestays homestays offer experiences in keeping with the culture
in India are now providing the essence of an intimate
of the land on which they are situated. The popular
resort experience
Chhotaram Prajapat’s Homestay, situated some 20
th e
th e
You can choose your hosts and stays as kilometres from Jodhpur, is a case in point. Huts have
per your interests
consciously been chosen as the residences in order to
From the Sunnymead Estate in Shimla, Himachal provide an authentic Rajasthani village experience to the
Pradesh to the Bangala Heritage Hotel and Homestay in visitors — all in keeping with the belief that India’s heart
Chettinad, homestays seem to be in their honeymoon and soul resides in its rural areas.
period all over India. In many cases, homestays
� Even the best homestays might offer used toiletries
essentially entail refurbishing ancestral properties. For and linen. So, it’s best to pack your personal kit
*
Take note of the checking-in
and checking-out times at the
homestays in certain locations,
as these may be dependent on their
connectivity with the city
Cherish the Intimacy at

Boutique Hotels
If you want an extravagant travel experience with more. Boutique hotels provide a hyper - seasonal
a luxurious touch, then boutique hotels should be menu with the freshest ingredients and usually have
your go-to destination-worthy eateries which are just a cherry
One has the flexibility to customise on top of the cake. Furthermore, the heritage designs
and plan the stay according to personal and unmatched hospitality with high-end amenities
preferences like open-air swimming pools, stylish bars and lounge
Offering a personal touch to your travel venture, areas, salons or spas, premium interiors, unique group
boutique hotels are highly intimate and feature a activities like yoga sessions or nature hikes, along
strong artistic sense with an irresistible charm – with complimentary breakfasts make such stays
think elegance, eclecticism, and fascinating décor wholesome. Guests staying in a boutique hotel, on the
and elements that make the experience different. other hand, are assured satisfaction because boutique
Boutique hotels comprise a maximum of 100-200 hotels are built to cater to personalised services. So,
rooms. If you are a sucker for privacy, comfort and if you're in the mood to splurge, pack your bags and
quiet, then you can book one of the hotels such as prepare to be spoiled and pampered at a boutique hotel.
La Villa in Puducherry, Shahpura Bagh in Rajasthan, � Boutique hotels only became popular in the 1980s
RAAS in Jodhpur, Ahilya by the Sea in Goa, and many in New York, San Francisco, and London

INDIAN
RESPONSIBLE
TOURISM Summit
& AWARDS 2022
Reimagining india
The Sustainable Way
HAMPI, KARNATAKA
April 6, 2022
ex p l o r e
ex p l o r e
ve ga n
ve ga n
57
Vegan
vegan
Journeys
Does the key to a greener, more sustainable planet lie in
adopting a vegan lifestyle?
I
t would perhaps not be unfair to say
that veganism no longer remains a fad the
world over. Reports and studies predict that the global vegan
food market will surpass $31 billion by 2026. Furthermore, a 2021
study in the US found out that one in five adults advocated for more
plant-based items in their diets, while in the UK, more than 8 million
individuals vowed to stay away from meat- and dairy-based products
in their meals in 2022. And, while there’s no accurate figure, some
estimates place the number of vegans in India at around 5 million.
Unsurprisingly, it is the people from the millennial and Gen
Z generations who are driving forth this radical shift in food
consumption and lifestyle patterns. They may be motivated for
different reasons — a healthier diet, a cleaner, more sustainable
environment or the need for a guilt-free life without blood on
one’s hands — but perhaps, what they all share in common is a firm
conviction that going vegan is one of the only ways to save the
planet and its inhabitants.
Recently, we sat down with vegan practitioners from different
spheres of life to understand what it really means to be a vegan
↖ A bowl of traveller in India and abroad. The takeaways from the conversations
greens daily have useful hints for those looking to embrace a vegan lifestyle.
can keep
the doctor
away
↘ Green vegetable
vegan salad with
Why Veganism?
spinach, mushrooms,
ex p l o r e
ex p l o r e
broccoli and quinoa
“ To me, veganism is about animal liberation and saving the lives of

animals. That’s first and foremost. Animals share the planet with us; they
are not here to be used by us. At the same time, [after] understanding
that animal agriculture is one of the biggest contributors to greenhouse
ve ga n
ve ga n
gas emissions, consumes the largest portion of foodgrains on the planet
(which is leading to forest land being converted into farmland to produce
food for the animals, huge amounts of biodiversity and rainforest loss,
Hardships
huge amounts of the stress on water reserves of the planet), it makes
utmost sense to turn vegan both for the animals and the planet. We, as
consumers, have the power to change the world. What we demand is going
and
to be produced.”
—Kuntal Joisher, mountaineer
“ I started my vegan journey about 5 years ago. Initially it was for ethical
reasons as I realised the horrors behind the meat and dairy industries.
However, with time I also learned about the health benefits of this life-
challenges
style and studied to become a plant-based nutritionist and health coach. “ People do not understand what we don’t
I discovered that eating this way was actually the best thing I could do for consume even after listing everything
Tips and hacks for would-be vegans

my health. I noticed I had a lot more energy, I could sleep better and re- out; saying there’s ‘only a little bit of egg/
covered much faster after a workout. I experimented with a lot of recipes milk’ in the item. Some are not willing to
and soon realised that vegan eating can be as delicious as you want it to make the effort of omitting an item and
be. Besides flying, I think this is my second biggest passion. I love guiding just refuse to provide a vegan meal. But “ For anyone and everyone starting on I found dishes such as ‘sausage with isn’t vegan. We all make mistakes but we
people on how to transition into a plant-based lifestyle.” in most places, people are very open and or trying out veganism, I recommend the roasted potatoes’, ‘beef with seasonal veg- shouldn’t dwell on them. Instead, we can
—Aashti Sindhu, pilot and vegan activist understanding — especially, given the rise etable salad’ and ‘rice with chicken’ on learn and try to do better the next time.”
same thing. Make sure you do your re-
of allergies across the world, it would be the the menu, I would ask for rice, potatoes — Aashti Sindhu
search about the foods and the locations
restaurant’s loss to refuse to adapt.” that you are going to. List down the res- and salad together. So, basi-
—Aditi Nanavaty, taurants and what they serve. If you want cally, the restaurant had no FORM IV
food and lifestyle blogger to go a step further, contact them and ask trouble in putting together a ( See rule 8 )
OUTLOOK TRAVELLER
them if they can accommodate your pref- dish which was different from
1. Place of Publication : New Delhi
“ The worst country in terms of vegan food erences. These days, the menu is available the menu.” 2. Periodicity of Publication : Monthly
3. Printer’s Name : Indranil Roy
for me was the Maldives. I was not staying in on food aggregator apps. So you can easily — Daisy May Queen Whether Citizen of India ? Yes
( If foreigner, state the country of origin ) Not Applicable
a 5-star resort but on a local island — and no view the menu and also find out about Address AB-10, Safdarjung Enclave
New Delhi - 110 029
one knew what veganism was. Besides, Mal- eating joints near your place of stay. Try “ I think it’s quite easy to 4. Publisher’s Name : Indranil Roy
Whether citizen of India? Yes
dives had very few options which consisted of out being vegan before you travel so that travel as ( If foreigner, state the country of origin) Not Applicable
Address : AB-10, Safdarjung Enclave
vegetables and fruits — food they had to buy you know what works best for your body, a vegan. You just have to do New Delhi - 110 029
5. Editor’s Name : Ashish Jha
from abroad (they do not grow them on their what your likes and dislikes are. Now you some research before going Whether Citizen of India Yes
↗ Spring ( If foreigner, state the country of origin) Not Applicable
appetizer
islands). So, I lived on rice and dark chocolate.” can pack food items such as oats, nuts, to the place. We are lucky in Address : AB-10, Safdarjung Enclave
New Delhi - 110 029
with raw —Daisy May Queen, former television seeds and fruits. Plan ahead so you know India to have a lot of plant- 6. Name and addresses of OWNER
vegetables presenter and radio host what and where you can buy groceries Individuals who own the Outlook Publishing (India) Private Limited
based options because most newspaper and the partners of Windsor, 7th Floor, CST Road, Kalina
and green shareholders holding more than Santacruz (East), Mumbai 400 098
pea hummus if your travel duration is long, or if your traditional Indian cuisine is one per cent of the total capital : SHAREHOLDERS
hotel doesn’t have too many options.” very easily veganised. If you’re 1. Varahagiri Investments & Finance Pvt. Ltd.
RAHEJAS, Corner of Main Avenue & V.P. Road,
Memorable vegan experiences

— Kean Lewis, travelling abroad, it might get Santacruz(West), Mumbai-400 054.
professional footballer 2. Manali Investments & Finance Pvt. Ltd.
challen-ging depending on RAHEJAS, Corner of Main Avenue & V.P. Road,
Santacruz(West), Mumbai-400 054.
the country you’re visiting. 3. Matsyagandha Investments & Finance Pvt. Ltd.
“ In the beginning, vegan travellers South-East Asia and Europe
RAHEJAS, Corner of Main Avenue & V.P. Road,
“ In 2018, I took part in an organised fundraiser bicycle “ My most memorable meal was in Lisbon, Portugal. It was a
4. Bloomingdale Investments & Finance Pvt. Ltd.
used to face a lot of hardship. People did are also extremely vegan- RAHEJAS, Corner of Main Avenue & V.P. Road,
tour from Poland to Germany and didn’t mention to the ravioli and it was incredibly delicious. In India, it would be the not recognise what you were talking friendly. I think the only place
5. Coronet Investments Pvt. Ltd.
organiser I was vegan because I just assumed there would delicious vegan food that was made especially for me at the about when I asked if they have vegan where I have had a hard time RAHEJAS, Corner of Main Avenue & V.P. Road,
be vegan options. So, I cycled 400 kms and ate only potatoes Oberoi Sukhvilas in Chandigarh. We were there in the winter, and food. Nowadays, it is much easier in a lot has been the Middle East. My
I, Indranil Roy, hereby declare that the particulars given are true to the best of my knowledge
for three days.” everything from sarson ka saag to makke ki roti was made vegan.” of countries. My favourite hack during only advice to vegans would and belief.

— Amélie Gagné, traveller and blogger — Aditi Nanavaty

those days was to mix different items be not to stress if they ac-
Dated : March 1, 2022

sd/-
Indranil Roy
from different dishes. For example, if cidentally eat something that PUBLISHER

ex p l o r e
ex p l o r e
↙ The
Chanderi
Regulars
60
Fort
complex
60
W
C h a n d e ri
C h a n d e ri
Chanderi
We boarded a train from Delhi to
Lalitpur, the nearest junction to
Chanderi on an ordinary August evening. Monsoon,

perhaps, is the best season to visit Madhya Pradesh.
The countryside which is rendered dry and dusty-
brown during the preceding summer months,
transforms into a verdant landscape under the spell
of heavy rains. Chanderi, a small picturesque town
in Madhya Pradesh, lends its name to the popular
handwoven sarees it exclusively produces. But many
will be surprised to find that the town has much
more to offer than sheer, gossamer textiles.
The town piqued my interest a few years ago. I had
been curious to visit the place, for, despite its rich
history, Chanderi seldom features as a popular travel
destination among heritage enthusiasts. So last year,
when a friend asked if I wanted to travel to Chanderi
on her birthday, I responded with a resounding yes.
An hour-long bus ride from Lalitpur to Chanderi
rewarded us with spectacular views of the beautiful
green fields and forests on either side. Once in
In the Land of
Chanderi, we made our way to the centre of the
Forts
town. We were lucky to have reached Chanderi on
a Saturday, and experienced the extensive weekly
market. If sources on the internet are to be believed,
then present-day Chanderi dates back to the 11th
century. But its history is more tumultuous and
traces its roots in mythology and folklore as well.
According to a legend, the city was established by
lord Krishna’s cousin, king Shishupala, in the Vedic
period. Another one suggests that king Kirtipal of
Temples
the Gurjara-Pratihara dynasty shifted the capital
Discovering the hidden from Buddhi (old) Chanderi, a site that still exists
and
gems of Chanderi on some 16 kms away from the current settlement, and
which is home to over 55 Hindu and Jain temples.
an impromptu trip to However, since its establishment, Chanderi has seen
Madhya Pradesh many dynasties rise and fall — the Kachhwahas,
the Mamluks, the Malwa Sultanate, the Mughals
Words: Adya Parashar and the British — all leaving behind marks on
its architectural landscape. The importance and
prosperity of Chanderi can also be noted in various
travel accounts by famous chroniclers, among whom
was Ibn Battuta, who visited the city in 1342. He
Photograph: Shutterstock described Chanderi as a thriving, culturally rich

← Toteshvara ↓ Pasta at ↑ Unwinding
Mahadev the weekly the silk
temple bazaar threads
A barter network enabling companies to buy without spending cash.

Simply by paying in kind, You get all products & services
Photograph: Adya Parashar Photograph: Adya Parashar
city that had huge bazaars teeming with built by the Bundela king, Durjan Singh, in domeless Shehzadi ka Rauza, built in the Buyback Arrangement
people and goods. the 16th century. Also present is a mosque 15th century by the governor of Chanderi for
with intricate stone carvings featuring floral his daughter, Mehrunissa, and Parmeshwar Additional Marketing Force
patterns and verses from the Quran built by Tal and its surrounding cenotaphs of the
Having had our fill of the
Resource Mobilization
sights
Alauddin Khilji. Some parts of the complex Bundela kings and their satis.
have a more gory history. For instance,
the Johar Smarak, which was built to
Apart from the Team Synergy
royal vestiges
and sounds of the market, we met with commemorate the mass immolation of 600
a friend, Saiful Islam, a resident of Rajput women in 1528, when Babur attacked
Chanderi and young master weaver who the kingdom. Then, there’s Khooni Darwaza, Expenses Converted Into Sales
enthusiastically offered to take us around where the Malwa sultans would hang the scattered across its landscape, Chanderi
town. Together, we made our way to the
sprawling Chanderi Fort complex called
bodies of prisoners, and which is said to
have literally been bathed in blood again
and its environs have been a hub of great
religious and spiritual activity. Under the
Resource Consolidation
the Kirti Durg. Perched on a hilltop, it when Babur laid siege to the fort. In a way, Gurjara-Pratihara dynasty, and during the
offers breathtaking views of Chanderi and the fort is a metaphor for Chanderi itself — rule of the Kachhwahas, many Hindu and
its surrounding forests and fields. Built in it is peppered with numerous historical sites Jain temples were built in the area. Later,
the 11th century by king Kirtipal, the fort
is also an amalgamation of the different
from different periods and warrants plenty
of time to explore each of them leisurely.
Sufism was woven into the spiritual fabric
of the city. To help us see the area through
for more information:
cultural and architectural elements that
each conqueror brought with them. There
Over the course of the next day, Saiful
continued to guide us through more of
this lens, we met Muzzafar Ansari, popularly
known as Kalle bhai, a historian, guide and +91 98915 62122
is the Naukhanda Mahal with a central these sites — the forlorn Raja Rani Mahal, expert on all things Chanderi. Kalle’s bhai
courtyard, fountain, and tank, which was one of the 43 remaining palaces in town, the penchant for history and storytelling not [email protected] www.resourcesinc.co.in
62 march 2022
ex p l o r e
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ex p l o r e
ex p l o r e
↙ A hamlet
Regulars
66
enroute
Chattru
A
66
c h a n dr a t a l
c h a n dr a t a l
chandratal
As I lay in my sleeping bag and listened to

the sound of soft snow
falling on my tent, I reminisced about the last

few days which I had spent — working on the
weekdays, followed by insane adventures during
the weekend. This happened to be my last night in
Himachal Pradesh. The next day, I planned to hike
down to the city and pack up my stuff to leave for
home after spending a week and a half working
from hills and then hiking to the Hampta Pass,
peddling from Rohtang La to Manali and camping
near the mighty Chandra Tal. All I could wonder
was how this campsite could feel more like home
than home itself. There was a thin layer of a tent,
another thin mattress, and a not-so-cosy sleeping
bag between me and the cold ground. Yet it felt like
the most comfortable bedding I have slept on in
my entire life.
With a series of COVID-induced lockdowns
dominating the last two years, avid travellers like
me had been looking for that small escape window.
And the moment I saw it, I grabbed it without a
second thought. It was in the middle of the day
during October that I received a call from a college
friend who suggested working from the hills,
Into the Alpine

instead of our homes, for the next two weeks. The
meadows
plan was to work during the weekdays and spend
the weekends hiking and camping. Despite the
initial hesitation we hopped on this journey and
booked ourselves a homestay — literally at a dead-
end — for two weeks.
The tourist season at these places begins from
late June and ends around early September. So the
probability of us encountering crowds was fairly
low. And as we had expected, there was nobody
except our group of six.
In a distant faraway land, there are snow-capped mountains, We began our
mesmerising sunsets, local cafes and the human footprint journey

Words & Photography : Japnit Kaur Sidhu on a Friday afternoon. We reached Old Manali in
the evening — it felt strange to see the otherwise
overcrowded streets so deserted. We called it an

and our limited ration steered us in the
ex p l o r e
ex p l o r e
opposite direction.
The next week was
all about
c h a n dr a t a l
c h a n dr a t a l
the early-morning long walks in the pine
forests, heavy breakfasts in local cafés, and
working on the laptop while absorbing
the cool autumn sunshine. With all the
cosiness, the motivation to work did not
come easy. The usual attractions — distant
snow-covered mountains, lush green
forests, the sound of water flowing in
the nearby stream, and the sight of the
beautiful Jogini waterfall — proved to be
major distractions. And giving in to the
temptation, we rented mountain bikes to
ride from the Rohtang Pass to Manali — a
← The waste ↑ The ↓ Mountain → Camping
distance of 55 kms. collected picturesque pony grazing at Balu ka
It was a fine, sunny morning with white, from the Chandratal the last Gera at
vicinity Lake grass of the 11,900ft
puffy clouds hovering all over the sky and
season
a perfect opportunity to cycle. Cycling in
the mountains is one of the most thrilling
experiences, along with being sustainable,
and is one of the best ways to enjoy what
the place has to offer. It took us 4-5 hours to
cover the distance. By the time we reached
Manali, exhaustion took over, and we ended
the day with a scrumptious meal.
The next weekend, we trekked to
the Hampta Pass. The trek is generally
undertaken during the monsoons. We,
however, went in October, eventually
↖ The author becoming the last group for the season. It is
and her
friend making about 32 kms long, at an elevation of 4,287
a pit stop m, and is fairly easy for all sorts of trekkers.
Generally, it takes six days to complete the
early night in anticipation of the long morning to warm ourselves up, we started trek if one intends to cross the pass and end we took out our garbage bags and ended up It was a fine, sunny sure that no footprint of mine is left behind.
journey the next day — to Chandra Tal. Due our hike towards Chandra Tal. in Chattru. But we opted for a shorter route carrying ten of them back with us. There is always a cleaning drive planned for
morning with white,
to the Atal Tunnel, the 140-km journey Chandra Tal is shrouded in myths and and managed to complete the trek in 3 days the last day of the trek in order to leave the
takes around six hours now, down from the legends. Some locals will indulge you in — instead of crossing the pass, we retraced puffy clouds hovering place just the way we found it.
I have been
all over the sky and a
trekking
10 hours it used to take previously. mysterious stories of fairies sighted by our steps. The trek starts from a forest and Time and again I’ve been asked — why
We began at 8 am the next morning with some at the lake; others will talk about the scenery quickly changes to beautiful perfect opportunity do you trek? How can someone enjoy
our camping equipment, pre-cooked meals, UFOs landing there. But it’s not the grasslands and river crossings. One moves to cycle. Cycling in walking, carrying so much load, sleeping on
warm clothes, and lots of garbage bags. stories that gave us goosebumps. We were from the treeline towards the snowline in the Himalayas since 2010. In the the ground, getting sunburnt at times, or
the mountains is one
The ride was a bumpy one with hardly astonished and agonised at the same time with mountains on both sides, walking past decade, the culture of trekking has dealing with temperatures as low as -20°C?
any signs of civilisation after Khoksar. We to see it littered with candy wrappers, food parallel to the streams. It is the Hampta increased exponentially. On one hand, this of the most thrilling Similar to meditation, I have always found
reached the Chandra Tal camping ground packets, paper plates and even discarded Pass that divides the lush, green Kullu has provided a source of income to the local experiences walking in the mountains to be therapeutic.
at sunset. While some of us were arranging clothes. The next step? We grabbed our Valley from the treacherous and barren communities, but, on the other, it has also I not only think about the frostbites and
the equipment and pitching our tents, the garbage bags and started picking up the Lahaul Valley. One starts their journey from led to exploitation in the name of tourism. treks, huge amounts of garbage can be sore feet but also the sounds of nature, the
others prepared the meals. It was a very litter — and got the bags, filled to the brim, a hamlet called Sethan to ultimately end up Solid waste is accumulating at a fast pace seen left behind. Since 2017, I have actively absolute stillness that gives time to think
cold night, with temperatures falling as low back to Manali. All of us were keen on in Chattru. However, amidst these surreal and proper infrastructure to handle the aimed to become a part of the solution and contemplate, the extraordinary terrain,
as -7°C; yet, we were all very enthusiastic. staying at Chandra Tal for another night. sights were plastic plates, wrappers, glass amount of waste is not in place yet. With instead of the problem. During my travels the star-laden infinite sky and the gentle
After engaging in some cardio the next But a replay of the dropping temperatures bottles and much more. And once again, commercialisation at the helm of these — whether with a group or solo — I make touch of the cool breeze. T

ex p l o r e
ex p l o r e
Regulars
70
PH O T O E S S AY
PH O T O E S S AY
eyes
For Your
70
PHOTO ESSAY
Only ↑ This colourful, red-and-blue ‘painting’

taken by Italian photographer Fortunato
Gatto is actually a reflection of a cold, wintry
sunrise captured on wet sand in Eig, Small
Photographers from all over the world push their creative Islands, Scotland
senses to craft amazing visual stories Photo credit: Fortunato Gatto/www.tpoty.com

→ There’s a striking
ex p l o r e
ex p l o r e
contrast that plays
T
out in this scene
under the Mansudae
Grand Monument in
he Travel
Pyongyang, North
Photography of Korea. A group of
the Year (TPOTY) students learn history
awards have been through the statues of
the erstwhile leaders,
PH O T O E S S AY
PH O T O E S S AY
honouring excellence as an old hunched
in the field of photography since woman goes the
its inception in 2003. In spite of the opposite way, having
lived through it all.
pandemic, The TPOTY awards 2021 Photo Credit:
saw nearly 20,000 entries from 151 Alain Schroeder/www.
TPOTY.com
countries. The winning photos are now
up on their website (https://www.tpoty.
com/). From abstract photos of stunning
natural beauty to stark depictions of
social realities, these pictures seem to ← Dani Salvà’s photo
shows preparations
hold a mirror up to the various aspects for the Dance of
of humanity and nature. Some other Death in Catalonia,
photos tell stories and depict paradoxes Spain — a dance
that continues
in fine bits of ‘storytelling’. Encouragingly a long legacy of
enough, TPOTY also honours the future macabre dances
crop of budding photographers with a from the Middle ↗ Using a slow-shutter speed, 13-year-
Ages, in which five old Indigo Larmour records the sheer
slew of different awards for those under skeletons dance to excitement and buzz of a camel race in Al
18 — and if the best photos in these the beat of a drum Dhaid, Sharjah, United Arab Emirates
categories are any indication, the future Photo credit:
Photo credit: Indigo Larmour/www.tpoty.com
Dani Salvà/
of photography is bright indeed. T www.tpoty.com
↓ 90-year-old Mr Trinh Ngoc still works

as a shoemaker in Saigon, Vietnam. For
decades, he has made shoes for the
Cambodian royal family and many famous
Vietnamese singers
Photo credit: Viet Van Tran/www.tpoty.com
↗ The vibrant-yet-mellow picture,

shot by Jai Shet, an 18-year-old
landscape photographer, displays
the bright red-foliage of fall in Texas
against a misty background
Photo credit: Jai Shet/www.tpoty.com
ex p l o r e
↓ In this stark depiction of humanity’s abuse of nature,

a man scavenges for ‘valuables’ such as bottles and
cans amidst all the garbage thrown into the sea which
surfaces during low tide in the harbour area of Belèm
Photo credit: Johnny Haglund/www.tpoty.com
PH O T O E S S AY
↘ Captured in Lombardy, Italy, Beniamino

Pisati’s photo tells the story of a man who
sleeps in an underground hut the size of a
coffin (called ‘the bait’ in the local dialect)
despite owning a comfortable stone house
Photo credit: Beniamino Pisati/www.tpoty.com
↑ Trevor Cole catches a young Mundari

herdsman in Terekeka, South Sudan,
in the act of immersing himself in the
fresh urine from his Ankle Watusi cow
— which is apparently thought to be an
antiseptic and is used to dye hair red or
bleached blonde
Photo credit: Trevor Cole/www.tpoty.com

ex p l o r e
ex p l o r e
↘ Jose Fragozo’s picture of a ↘ Normally, you would mistake this photo
hippopotamus in a drought-stricken mud for a music album cover. But, you would be
pool in Kenya was taken at an incredibly surprised to know that the Teton Mountains
precise moment — just as it blinked its eye in the photo’s background appear invisible
after coming up to take a breath because of the forest wildfires that were
Photo credit: Jose Fragozo/www.tpoty.com raging when the photo was clicked in August
2021 by 17-year-old Tevin Kim
Photo credit: Alain Schroeder/www.tpoty.com
PH O T O E S S AY
PH O T O E S S AY
↘ Black panthers have been a source of
↘ Snow sticks to the mountains of south-
fascination for Will Burrard-Lucas since
east Alaska, forming unique features called
childhood. Lighting up this magnificent creature
spines. Pally Learmond’s picture shows
against the inky-black darkness in this photo,
a mountain face called Dirty Needle in
however, required a fair amount of creativity
Haines, Alaska, which also happens to be a
and tweaking of cameras
playground for professional free-ride skiers
Photo credit: Will Burrard-Lucas/www.tpoty.com
Photo credit: Pally Learmond/www.tpoty.com

Back
back
— Books —
The Blind
Matriarch
R e g u l a r
Namita Gokhale on her
little book, JLF and more
things to
fill in your
journey
— Final shot —
*
Spread across over 30 hectares of blooming
tulips, the Keukenhof Gardens in Holland are
a true spectacle. Travellers from across the
globe make their way to the garden each spring and a
fresh theme defines the flower park each year. With
nearly 7 millions flower bulbs planted annually at the
garden, one can simply choose to spend a leisurely
afternoon in the park or hop on to one of the 15kms
hiking trails that the garden offers. The garden also
has weekly rotational flower shows, ponds and
pavilions as well as various restaurants and terraces
Photograph: SHUTTERSTOCK
Life in the Time of the “Books Endure, and That
Back
Back
Book
extract
80 Coronavirus Is Their Strength”
i nte rvi e w
As the country’s biggest literary extravaganza returns on
ground this year, Namita Gokhale, Festival Director, Jaipur
I
Literature Festival (JLF), speaks to Simrran Gill about what to
t’s Holi. 10 March. The
look forward to and more
festival of colours is
meant to usher in the onset » You’ve always had a deep lockdowns. It is told through the
of summer, but not this year. It’s connection with books. How perspective of an old woman who
cold, windy and cloudy. The Holika has the journey been — from lives on the top floor of the family
fire the night before whimpered in conceptualising Kitaabnama for house, presiding over her two sons,
the breeze. The coronavirus is keeping Doordarshan till 2021? her daughter-in-law and daughter,
people indoors, and the prime minister I have had a long, fruitful and joyous her grandchildren, and the two ladies these have been so different in size and
has urged people to celebrate the rowdy journey all the way. It’s been a real who help run the household. It’s a scale, but they share a sense of joyous
festival with the utmost restraint. privilege to be surrounded by books quiet story — nothing much happens energy. The International Festival of
On the ground floor of C100, Shanta and writers and readers, by arguments on the surface, but there are unseen Indian Literature, Neemrana, and the
has been cooking up a storm. She has and poetry and literary friendships. A depths, secrets and hurts from the Africa Asia Literary conference, as well
baked two batches of gujiyas, made with part of me likes to hide in a corner and past, and the complex inner life of as the various international editions of
organic flour and suji, and coated them write my heart out. I also like to reach an Indian joint family. the JLF have all been full of learnings
in a gentle cardamom-flavoured syrup. and life lessons.
Munni, from among her many roles,
that of an accomplished cook, wanted » How does it feel to be back on
to fry them, but Shanta wanted them ground for JLF this time?
baked. It was a new recipe, and once the Fingers crossed! We are waiting to once
gujiyas had been coated with a patina of “Happy Holi, my darling sister! And to and retinopathy that led to her loss of again experience the intense energies
silver virk, Shanta placed them in four you too, Munni didi.” vision was a factual reality to Matangi’s of community, of human interaction, of
baskets, along with a sprig of larkspur Shanta deposited a basket of baked children. Her own unflustered live audiences.
from her tiny garden, with its first gujiyas on the dining table. She held acceptance of her condition had made
blooms of spring. her hands together in an exaggerated it all seem even more normal. » What should we look forward
No colours this year, not even dry, namaste, then raised them to her Because the retinal damage had set to this year at the JLF?
powdered ones. Nobody trusted the forehead and said Adaab. in gradually, Matangi had adapted her We look forward to sessions that are
Chinese imports any more, and the fear “Keep your distance, dear brother,” faculties to the blurred vision. She urgent and timely, as well as those that
of the virus had led her, like most of her she said affectionately. “And a very went about her tasks with easy, relaxed discuss timeless issues. The hybrid
friends, to be cautious. happy Holi to all of you. I must rush up movements, never complaining, never model gives us great opportunities to
Dollar the dog and Trump the cat to see Mummy now, I never got to visit letting on how little she could actually innovate and experiment.
were left behind as the two women set her last evening, what with the police see. She had not even noticed when and out, to interact with people, to create » You’ve been behind several
off on their festive excursion. Munni coming in.” how her instincts had begun to take connectivity. Kitaabnama — which I other initiatives. What, in your » How is JLF trying to merge
rang the bell on the first floor and tried Satish’s even-featured face betrayed over, and when her sense of hearing, curated for Doordarshan for two years view, are the binding elements of international influences and
to peep in from the eyehole. Shanta no curiosity. “The police?” he asked of smell, even of taste, had become — had the most enormous footprint all such institutions? Also, what Indian sensibilities?
tried to call her brother but he seemed softly. “What have you been up to, sis?” sharper, more acute. Her fingertips, her and outreach and the legacy remains makes them exclusive? I think local writers and readers are
to be out of range. “It can wait,” Shanta replied as toes, even the in the hundred episodes still available All these literary initiatives require what are important. What we call
Another floor up, to the ornate front she rushed up the stairs. “Will catch hairs on her arm, on YouTube. My twentieth book is also deep, trusting and playful creative ‘international‘ doesn’t really represent
door that announced the home of Ritika up later.” were all part of a landmark, as is the Sahitya Akademi collaborations. Working together as a the gamut of world literatures. We, at JLF,
and Satish. Satish opened the door, Matangi was sitting on her bed, her the apparatus of Award for English 2021. team, supporting each other’s strengths, present international literatures, across
looking worried. “She has a cold,” he hands spread out before her, as though perception. recognising the weak links in the languages and cultures,
said, “and she is running a temperature. she were examining her nail polish. This excerpt is » Could you tell us something chain — these things are important in but we also stress voices
And the maid has been ill all this week Her mother’s blindness had been an from The Blind about The Blind Matriarch? building and sustaining organisations. that cry out to be heard
as well. Damn!” He collected himself ingrained part of Shanta’s life since she Matriarch by The Blind Matriarch was written in The Bhutan Literature Festival, the and books that need to
and summoned up his normal charm. was young. The macular degeneration Namita Gokhale real time during the first and second Kumaon LitFest, Jaipur [JLF] — all of be made visible.

Back
F I NA L S H O T
Photograph: Shutterstock
T here is no dearth of cultural and

historical marvels around the world.
And for those who love to chase these art
Big Events Travel website, is Paris, home to
almost 300 museums and 1,142 galleries.
Packed with world-class art, much of which
museum, the Louvre, the city draws
millions each year for the chance to get up
close to Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, the iconic
delights, the best destination, according to is on show at the world’s most popular Venus de Milo, and more.
82 march 2022
i n d i a ’ s no.1
T r av e l
magazine
March 2022 • `150 www.outlooktraveller.com
Bright &
Brilliant!
The long spell of winter whiteness comes to an end. The last packs of snow melt, to
be painted with vivid hues of green and streams flow with great excitement. Spring
in Kashmir brings cheer and liveliness!
P h o t o g r a P h : a q u i b b h at

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i n d i a ’ s no.

march 2022• L150 www.outlooktraveller.com

Experiences that young travellers crave

Unmissable Food trails Bed, Breakfast Travelling being

explore “Jobs fill your

The Trans Bhutan trail has

50 Bed & Breakfast

Cover photograph: Shutterstock

Circulation & Subscription

back Arun Kumar Jha (east)

80 books ← The Jaipur Production

Excerpt from the Blind Matriarch Literature General manager

Namita Gokhale hybrid mode Associate Manager

Company secretary & law officer

Printed and published by Indranil Roy

T hat’s a nice image on

think what’s so special in

Purnima was celebrated on 26th May. Jitu Mishra is an Archeologist and

In the woods at panna 16 X WORLD

• The Coronavirus pandemic spurred major changes in our lives,

Delhi’s iconic Signature bridge

A Morning in Tiger Country

↑ Panna National Park is great for tiger sightings

18 march 2022 outlook traveller 19

cathedrals and To Do A universal township

from major minutes of

of martial art) are some of the entertaining

From architectural marvel of its temples to the fascinating culinary

spread, Tamil Nadu is a land of infinite cultural richness

The urge for an adrenaline-fuelled

30 march 2022 outlook traveller 31

Spot Cave Fishes

Moving beyond regular and

38 march 2022 outlook traveller 39

Almond Blossom in Kashmir

Left: The soft rays during

Right: Kahwa served with

For more details on Kashmir,

Cherish the Intimacy at

52 march 2022 outlook traveller 53

“ To me, veganism is about animal liberation and saving the lives of

Tips and hacks for would-be vegans

Memorable vegan experiences

— Amélie Gagné, traveller and blogger — Aditi Nanavaty

58 march 2022 outlook traveller 59

Chanderi on an ordinary August evening. Monsoon,

60 march 2022 outlook traveller 61

A barter network enabling companies to buy without spending cash.

Photograph: Adya Parashar Photograph: Adya Parashar

Regulars Read what is Racy, Reliable and iRRepRessible

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