®

PROJECT PLAN

Classic built-in
book case
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 built-in
No complex wood joints, no tricky
techniques—you simply glue, screw
and nail all the parts together
by David Radtke

Y
ou would have loved the library in my old home-
town. Its beautifully paneled wood bookshelves
were as inspirational as the books they held. This
handsome bookcase features those same classic elements
—the curved brackets, column-like partitions and crown
molding. Now you can add
them to your living room or Project facts
study with this simply
Time
designed bookcase project.
25 to 30 hours
You can build the project
as shown from our clear Cost
$420
drawings and step-by-step
photos, or use these tech- Special Tools
niques to modify the dimen- Table saw, 18-gauge
sions for your own space. air nailer, power
miter saw
The partitions shown in
Photos 8 and 9 can be placed Skill Level
wall to wall as shown or can Intermediate
stop halfway into a room and
then finish off on the open side. Or you can extend the
length by building additional partitions and shelves.
This project is made from hardwood plywood, 2x6s,
hardwood boards and standard moldings available at
home centers and lumberyards. We chose birch boards
and plywood along with maple moldings and then used a
gel stain (p. 44) to give the project a cherry wood appear-
ance. You’ll notice we’ve also rubbed away stain to create
highlights for an antique look. The materials we used are
listed in the Shopping List and illustrated in the drawing
on p. 34. You can preassemble nearly all the parts of this
modular-type project in your garage or shop and carry
them into your room for assembly.

More BOOKCASE ➤➤

32 DECEMBER / JANUARY 2002 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN DECEMBER / JANUARY 2002 33
 Classic
built-in bookcase

1-1/4" 10-1/2" L T FIG. A

K
B
ANGLE BOOKCASE DETAILS
BRACKET
6-1/2" T
N1
P1 EACH 45-DEGREE MITERS ON
SQ.= 1" ALL CROWN JOINTS
Q1 J
14"
R1 Q4 FACE FRAME BRACKET
PATTERN Q4
1/4" DIA. K
2" HOLES P1
Q3 H
1" 1/2" DP. N2
S1 3/8" x 1-1/2" P2
9-1/2" FILLER Q1 X

F1
SECTION AT TOP L
K
N1
1-1/8" E
R1
J Q2 R2 Q3

3" SCREW D
P1 INTO WALL S1
5-1/2" ANCHOR
CUT-
OFF
M
Q4
Q1 2"
E H
H M
K
B
Q3 B
A S1 D G
G
S1
S1
C
B

FACE FRAME F1 X

A J
U2 K
U3 W2
X
W1
R1
45-DEG REE R2
MITER Q3
U5
(TYP.) F2

H S1 S2
V
R2
F2
C 44" X U1 V

U4 R2
45-DEGREE
MITERS (TYP.)
U3

R1 U2 S1
B
K
V U4 U5 (SIDE
Q3
PANELS ONLY) S2
MAGNETIC
LATCH 3/8" x 1-1/2" W2 R2 U1
J FILLER
H W2
6-1/4" ANGLE
W1
BRACKET
3/8"
W1
SECTION AT
1/16" CHAMFERS (TYP.) WINDOW SEAT

34 DECEMBER / JANUARY 2002 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

 Classic
built-in bookcase

Cutting List The sandwich-style partitions

KEY QTY. SIZE & DESCRIPTION are the backbone of the project
A 8 1-1/2" x 4" x 95" center partition
struts Cut your plywood lengthwise to the dimensions in the Cutting List to
B 8 3/4" x 12-3/4" x 95" plywood make your exterior partition skin. Equip your circular saw with a new,
partition sides
C 4 3/4" x 4" x 95" plywood partition
thin-kerf 40-tooth carbide blade. Use a long cutting guide (available at
fronts home centers) clamped to the plywood sheet to guide your saw for
D 12 3/4" x 9-3/8" x 39" reinforced straight cuts. Also rip straight 8-ft. 2x6s to 4-in. widths with your table
plywood shelves*
E 12 1/2" x 1-1/2" x 39" hardwood rear
saw for the core of each partition. NOTE: Buy your 2x6s about a week in
shelf supports* advance and bring them inside to dry out and adjust. You may have
F1 12 5/8" x 1-1/8" x 39" decorative some that’ll warp or twist as
edge molding*
F2 1 5/8" x 1-1/8" x 39-3/4" decorative
they adjust to the dry envi-
edge molding* ronment inside the house, so
G 8 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 95-1/2" partition buy a couple of extra pieces
face stiles
H 12 3/4" x 4" x 3-1/4" partition rails
just in case.
J 8 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 3-1/4" partition rails Assemble the partitions
K 8 3/4" x 7-1/4" x 10" curved brackets on a flat surface as shown in
L 1 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 143-1/2" ceiling Photo 2 and then set them
cleat*
aside for the glue to dry.
M 4 1-1/2" x 4" x 95" wall cleats
N1 4 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 39-1/4" soffit
Once the glue is dry, drill the
cleats* 1/4-in. holes for the shelf pins
N2 2 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 42-1/4" soffit as shown in Photo 3.
cleats*
P1 2 3/4" x 7-1/4" x 39-1/2" front fascia*
Notice the 2-in. gap at the
P2 1 3/4" x 7-1/4" x 42-1/4" front fascia* back of the sandwich. This is
Q1 2 1/4" x 1-1/4" x 39-1/4" left and crucial. It’ll allow you to slip
right upper fillets
the partitions over cleats
Q2 1 1/4" x 1-1/4" x 42-1/4" upper
center fillets attached to the wall with
Q3 8 1/4" x 1-1/4" x 1-1/2" under- room to spare, as shown in

1
MEASURE the width of your
bracket fillets
Photo 7. TIP: The extra room and the height of the ceiling.
Q4 4 1/4" x 1" x 6-3/4" face frame fillets
1/2 in. of space between the Also check the window placement.
R1 4 3/4" x 10-1/2" x 39-1/4" side base Our room was almost 12 ft. wide with an
shelf and soffit (plywood) cleat on the wall and the
8-ft. ceiling, and the window was very
R2 3 3/4" x 10-1/2" x 42-1/4" center
close to the center. If there’s no window,
base shelf, soffit and bench
(plywood) More BOOKCASE ➤➤ just build shelves into the center section.
S1 6 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 78-1/4" bracket
support molding

2
S2 2 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 3-1/4" seat bracket GLUE AND
support molding NAIL the
T 20 ft. 3-1/4" hardwood crown molding plywood sides
U1 6 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 10-1/2" side and (B) to straight 2x6s
center base shelf supports (A) ripped to 4 in.
U2 2 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 7-1/2" side bench wide. Leave a 2-in.
supports gap at the back and
U3 2 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 42-1/4" bench cleats a 3/4-in. gap in the
(glued from underneath) front. Next, glue and
U4 6 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 4-3/4" base section B nail the front 3/4-in.
stops
plywood piece (C)
U5 4 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 12" side panel base so it’s flush with the
cleats (glue to W1 and W2)
A sides. Make all four
V 6 3/4" x 6-1/4" x 10-1/2" plywood A
partitions exactly
center base shelf supports
alike and be sure
W1 20 ft. 3/4" x 5-1/2" (1x6 base molding)* B
the pieces are all cut
W2 20 ft. 3/4" x 1-1/2" (bifold stop molding
1-1/4 in. less than
as base cap)*
your ceiling height.
X 30 ft. 1/2" quarter-round face frame
C Let the glue dry for
trim*
B a couple of hours
* Cut pieces to fit before assembling.

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN DECEMBER / JANUARY 2002 35

Classic
built-in bookcase

recess in the partition is convenient

for running wiring for low-voltage
lights in the soffits of the bookcase.
We were just storing books, so the
lighting wasn’t necessary.
BACK EDGE Save time:
OF
PARTITION Preassemble the
shelves while the glue
sets for the partitions
While the glue is drying on the
partitions, it’s a good idea to get
other parts cut and ready to
1/4" BRAD assemble. Start with the shelves.
POINT BIT
From measuring the room in
STOP COLLAR
Photo 1, you’ll have a good sense
of the shelf length. Make them all
9-1/2"
CENTER about an inch or more too long and
trim them later for an exact fit. By
making the shelves a bit long, you
don’t have to fuss with perfectly
1" aligning the moldings on
CENTER
the front and back of the
shelf as you glue and nail

3
MEASURE 12 in. down from the top of
your partition and drill 1/4-in. holes, 1/2 in. STEEL them together. Also, save
deep, every 2 in. to accept the shelf pins. DRILL 1/4" time by forming an
GUIDE HOLES
Ensure accuracy by making a drill guide from a
assembly line.
steel strip, available at your hardware store. Just 12" C
mark and drill the strip with a 1/4-in. twist bit and NOTE: Don’t make

you’ve got a great jig you can use for future proj- these shelves more than
ects. Mark one end with paint so you always know 42 in. long or they may
which end goes up, then drill three 1/16-in. holes
2"
noticeably sag. Our
evenly along the length so you can use brad nails
to attach the guide to your work surface. shelves are 39 in. long.
The 1/2-in. anti-sag
cleat glued to the rear of the

4
GLUE and
nail 1/2-in. shelf is not a stock item, but
thick hard- you can make it on a table
wood strips on the
backside of the shelf
saw. First cut
F 1-1/2 in. wide strips
(E) and 1-1/8 in.
decorative molding
to the front (F). An
BRAD NAIL
18-gauge air nailer HOLE
2"
D
is worth renting for
this task. You can
nail the molding as DRILL
GUIDE
you align it without
the possibility of it
shifting, not to men-
tion you’ll be done
E
in less than a tenth
of the time required 1/8" x 1-1/8" x 72"
for ordinary nailing. STEEL DRILLED
EVERY 2"

PAINTED
END
More BOOKCASE ➤➤

36 DECEMBER / JANUARY 2002 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

Classic
built-in bookcase

5
from a wider board. Then tip this TRACE the
piece on end and cut the 3/4-in. brackets
(K) from
width down to 1/2 in. This step is the dimensional
called resawing and can be tricky grid in Fig. A and
because the workpiece gets narrow. cut them out
Use a push stick to keep your fin- carefully with a
jigsaw. Sand the
gers clear of the blade. If this is K curve smooth
(PATTERN)
beyond your adventurous spirit, with 100-grit
have the lumberyard folks cut it for sandpaper fol-
you for a nominal fee, and stick to lowed by 150-grit
/4"
7-1 sandpaper.
the fun parts of the project. And
don’t forget, while you’re resawing
(or having someone else do it),
make parts Q.

10
"
The front molding of the shelf
(5/8 in. thick and 1-1/8 in. wide)
covers the nasty plywood edge and
also stiffens the shelf. This molding
came from a local home center.
Match it with the profile shown in
Fig. A or feel free to use any similar
profile with the same dimensions.

G J G

6
CUT the long stiles (G) of the face frame and nail them with 8d finish
nails to the short rails (H and J). Use a drill bit to make a pilot hole
slightly smaller than the diameter of the nail. Set the nails and fill the
recesses with matching putty later.

Trace the curved brackets using the grid method

Mark your first bracket (K) on a the dots. Once the lines are drawn,
piece of 1x8. First lay out a 1-in. cut out the shape with a jigsaw and
square grid on the 1x8, then mark use your first cutout as a template
face frame the shape intersections with the grid for the rest. Smooth the curve with a
detail and draw a smooth line connecting drum sander or sanding block.

38 DECEMBER / JANUARY 2002 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

 L

The partition faces are

like super-narrow face
LEAVE 1-1/8"
frames on cabinets SPACE FROM
SIDE WALL
Because they’re so narrow and
don’t have to support weight as real
cabinet face frames do, you can just
nail the face frame parts together as
shown in Photo 6 and Fig. A. Once
they’re nailed, you’ll need to sand
the front and back completely flat
to get them to lie nicely against the
4'
partition fronts. The tool of choice LEVEL
for this is a random orbital sander 1-1/2" x 4"
WALL CLEAT
(a good $60 tool if you don’t already
own one). You can start with 80-grit
paper and finish with 150-grit.
Glue and screw

7
FASTEN the wall cleats to your drywall with wall anchors and con-
the partition cleats struction adhesive. We used a screw-in anchor called an E-Z Ancor with
to your wall a 3-in. No. 8 deck screw. Use a level to get the first cleat perfectly
plumb, then use your tape measure to place the remaining cleats.
In this article, we’re assuming you
have wood or tile floors, but if you

8
TIP the column
have carpeting, you’ll need to roll it partitions into
back, remove the tackless strip, and place and slip
then stretch and trim it later. We’ve them over the wall
also assumed that most of you have cleats. Fasten the parti- L
tions to the cleats with
drywall over wood studs, but if you 2-in. screws (3 and 6 in.
don’t, use the right anchor for your from the ceiling and
wall, whether it’s concrete, brick or the floor, respectively).
plaster. If you have drywall with They’ll be hidden later
by the upper soffit and
wood framing, you probably won’t lower base of the book-
hit a stud as you try to screw the case. Use a framing
partition cleats to the wall (Photo 7). square to make sure
Before fastening the wall cleats, the partitions are
square to the back wall,
screw a 1x2 cleat to the ceiling so then fasten them to the
the front edge is 10-1/2 in. from ceiling cleat with 2-in.
the back wall. This cleat serves two steel angle supports.
purposes: It helps support the
partition and works as a cleat for
9
L CUT each
the fascia (Photo 9). Our ceiling fascia piece
(P) to fit
joists ran perpendicular to the wall, snugly between the
so we could get a solid connection ANGLE partitions. Cut and
BRACKET P
into the ceiling every 16 in. (your fit the cleats (N) as
joists may be 24 in. on center). If the well. Screw the fas-
N cia to the ceiling
joists are running parallel to the cleat with 1-5/8 in.
back wall, you’ll need to use wood or deck
anchors and construction adhesive. screws.
Next, drill four 3/16-in. diameter
holes along the length of each wall

More BOOKCASE ➤➤

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN DECEMBER / JANUARY 2002 39

 Classic
built-in bookcase

10
cleat, plumb the cleat into position CUT the
P2
and then drive a nail through the fillets (Q1
Q1
through
holes to mark the anchor locations in Q2
Q4) on a table saw.
the drywall. Screw in your wall Sand each piece
anchors and then smear construc- (100 grit) to soften
R1 Q3
tion adhesive the sharp edges.
Cut and nail each
on the back- S piece into place with
side of the a small finish nailer.
cleat and Glue and nail the
screw it to the brackets (K) below
the fascia and fillet.
wall. Measure Cut the lower
top and bot- bracket supports
tom to the (S), center them
next cleat to below the brackets
and fillet, and glue
ensure they’ll and nail them to the
be parallel. partition sides with
Install the rest the air nailer.
in the same
manner. NOTE:
Keep the end
bracket wall cleats 1-
and upper 1/8 in. from
partition adjacent side
walls.
Slip the partitions over
the wall cleats and
screw them into place
Carry the partitions into the room TOP OF
and tip them up carefully to avoid FACE
FRAME
scarring the ceiling. The partitions
are fastened only at the top and
J
bottom, as mentioned in Photo 8, G H
5-1/2"
so the screwheads will be covered by
other parts later. Once the partition G
is fastened to the cleat, screw the
CUT ALONG
angle brackets to the partitions at MARK
the top and bottom 10 in. from the
back wall as shown in Photo 9.
Use a framing square to ensure the
partitions are perpendicular to the
back wall. Once the partition is
perfectly aligned, drive a screw

11
CUT the tops off each face frame 5-1/2 in. from
through the brackets into the ceiling the top to make room for the column fillets (Q4).
Make the cuts perfectly square.
cleat and then into the bracket on
the floor.
(P) between the partitions, screw a cleat against the back wall. To finish
Install cleats to hold
1x2 cleat (N1 and N2) to the back- the top of each section, cut the soffit
the fascia, soffit
side of each fascia 3/4 in. up from pieces R and nail them to the cleats.
and base shelf in place
the bottom. Next, fasten the match- Screw 1x2 strips (U1) to the
Before you screw the fascia pieces ing wall cleats parallel to the fascia bottom of the partitions and make

40 DECEMBER / JANUARY 2002 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

 Classic
built-in bookcase

12
CENTER center floor supports (V) from
UPPER the face scrap plywood to support the lower
FACE FRAME frames
SECTION evenly on the front base shelves (Photo 15). If you have
Q4 of the partitions, a floor heat register, remove the
LOWER then glue and cover and install an extension boot
Q4 FACE FRAME nail them to the
SECTION (Photo 17).
plywood partition
fronts. Glue the Dressing up the plain
fillet (Q4) in place
and then glue and
boxes with the right trim
nail the top section makes all the difference
of the face frame
to the top of the
Start by nailing the fillet trim (Q1
partition. and Q2) on the bottom of the fascia.
The fillet is wider than the fascia, so
center it so it extends equally on the
front and back of the fascia. Next,
CROWN
MOLDING glue each bracket (K) to the parti-
(T) tion side and nail it to the partition
and to the fillet above. Working
your way down the side, continue
18-GAUGE
FINISH with the small
NAILER 3/8" x
CROWN 1-1/2" fillet (Q3). Glue
RETURN FILLET
PIECE this small piece
to the bottom
of the bracket

13
CUT
AND with molding
NAIL the glue (a tackier
crown molding to
woodworking
finish the joints
along the ceiling. Cut glue) or car-
and glue small pieces penter’s glue.
of wood to fill the Cut the
gaps on the side of
bracket sup-
each partition behind
the face frame. ports to fit
between the fil-
let and the floor
mitered
CUT your crown detail
14 crown
molding
more safely and
to support the
curved bracket. These supports are
designed to nestle the shelves and
accurately by posi-
tioning the molding
hide the gaps between the shelf ends
BOTTOM SIDE
upside down on the and the partition sides. Cut the cen-
OF CROWN
miter saw bed. Mark ter seat (Photo 17) and fit the
the pieces so you brackets and fillets underneath as
can see the mark and
slowly cut through
shown in Fig. A
the piece. Let the (the seat height is 22 in.).
saw fall through the Cut the partition face frames as
molding. Don’t force shown in Photo 11 and fasten them
the saw or hurry
the cut.
to the partitions. Notice that the
plywood front of the partition
becomes the background for the
face frame. It’s not necessary to get

More BOOKCASE ➤➤

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN DECEMBER / JANUARY 2002 41

 Classic
built-in bookcase

a tight fit against the ceiling because CUT

the crown molding will cover the
ceiling joint and the exposed screws
AND
NAIL 15
the base molding
R1

along the top of the fascia. to wrap around

Crown molding can be fussy, so if the face frame and
partition sides.
you’ve never installed it before, see U
Note that you’ll
“For More Information” on p. 44 need small fillets to V
3/8" x 1-1/2"
and buy an extra piece of molding fill the gaps in the FILLET
(you can always same way as you
did at the top under
return the
the crown molding
unused piece). returns. Screw in U
I’ve installed cleats (U) 6-1/4 in.
miles of crown from the floor on
the side of each par- V
over the years
tition. Also screw
and still found the floor cleats (V)
the small pieces to the floor to sup-
port the center of HEATING
a bit challeng- VENT
each base shelf (R). EXTENSION
ing this time
because the
ceiling was
somewhat
irregular. The VISUAL
baseboard key is to cut the GAP
BIFOL
detail pieces uniform-
D STO
P

ly. I like to draw a line right on the

bed of my miter saw and always 1x6
align the molding edge with the saw. BASE
SECRET
PANEL
Small gaps at the joints can be filled
OPEN your secret storage
with putty and sanded, so don’t by prying it with a pocket
drive yourself nuts seeking perfec- knife or putty knife.
tion against a ceiling that’s not.
Don’t bother coping the crown
pieces (Photo 13), because they’ll be
tough to fit; miter them instead.
FASTEN
Fitting the base CABINET
CATCH HERE
and making
a secret compartment W2

This project will tie in with the rest

of the room better if you replace
SUPPORT
your existing base molding and BLOCK
carry it through along the bottom of
12"
the bookcase. We made a two-piece BLOCKS
base with 1x6 capped with bifold
stop for the top member. To create W1
a small gap between the two base
pieces (Photo 16 and Fig. A), we
chamfered the top edge of the 1x6

16
ASSEMBLE the “removable” secret-panel base section to create
and the bottom edge of the bifold
a secret storage box under the base shelf. Keep the base panel in
place with a cabinet magnet catch fastened to the side of the
More BOOKCASE ➤➤ support piece (V).

42 DECEMBER / JANUARY 2002 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

Classic
built-in bookcase
stop slightly with a block plane.
This lends a traditional custom
molding look.
To create the secret compartment
panels, cut some 12-in. blocks and
glue them to the back of the 1x6 base
pieces and nail the stop molding to
the blocks (see Fig. A). Glue a pair of
small blocks to the backside of parts
S to create a stop for the secret pan-
els. Install a magnetic cabinet latch to
the center base shelf support (V) to
hold the secret panel in place.
Fill all the nail holes, then
sand and finish
the bookcase
Sand the bookcase with 100-grit
sandpaper followed by 150-grit.
Paint the bookcase if you’d like or EXTEND HEATING
DUCT THROUGH
create the handsome antique finish BASE
we did. We used Old Masters Gel
Stain (see Buyer’s Guide) and mixed
five parts Cherry to two parts Red SUPPORT
BLOCK

17
Shopping List ASSEMBLE the window seat by screwing cleats (U2) to the sides
DESCRIPTION QTY. of each center partition and then nail the seat to the cleats. Note:
3/4" birch plywood. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 The seat is reinforced below by front and rear supports
1x8 x 8' birch (fascia and
glued to the underside of the seat before it is nailed in place. Glue molding to
bracket material) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 the front of the seat,
1x6 x 10' birch base molding . . . . . . . . 2 then nail the seat brack-
1x6 x 10' birch (face frame parts). . . . . 4 ets and fillets in place as
1x6 x 7' birch bracket supports
shown in Fig. A.
and fillet material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Bifold stop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20' Mahogany to one part
1/2" birch quarter-round. . . . . . . . . . . 30'
Special Walnut. Blend
3-1/4" birch crown molding . . . . . . . . 20'
1x2 pine cleat strips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24'
these in a separate con-
5/8" x 1-1/8" x 8' decra molding . . . . . . 7 tainer and apply them to
1/4" steel shelf pins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 the sanded
3" deck screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 dozen surface with a clean rag.
2" deck screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 lbs.
Apply enough to cover,
1-1/2" 18-gauge air nails . . . . . . . . 1 box
8d galvanized casing nails. . . . . . . . 1 lb.
and remove the excess
Carpenter’s glue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 pt. after a few minutes.
Magnetic cabinet latches . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Gently remove just
Buyer’s Guide
enough stain to enhance
Old Masters Stain can be found at paint the grain pattern. A dry
supply stores. Call 800-747-3436 for a
local dealer. www.oldmastrs.com
brush works to get the excess stain out seat with
of the corners. You can rub a bit more optional cushion
For More Information aggressively if you’d like to reveal some
■ “Easy to Install Cove Molding,” highlights or simulate wear. Let the stain Art Direction • BECKY PFLUGER
Dec./Jan. ‘99, p. 36.
dry and finish the cabinet with two coats Photography • BILL ZUEHLKE
■ “Wall Fasteners,” Nov. ‘96, p. 68. Project Design • DAVID RADTKE
of polyurethane varnish. Illustrator • EUGENE THOMPSON

44 DECEMBER / JANUARY 2002 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN