皮革染色過程的主要問題及移染探討

Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
Clariant Chemicals (China) Ltd
24.01.2006
Taiwan Roadshow
Wet End Dyestuffs and Auxiliaries.
水場染料和染色助劑
High Quality Dyeing – Clariant Key Product Ranges.
極好的染色堅牢度 – 科萊恩主要產品系列
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006
High Fastness Dyeing.

極好的染色堅牢度
Key Issues in Dyeing
染色過程中的主要問題
Dyestuff Levelness 染料的勻染性

Dyestuff penetration 染料的滲透性
Light fastness 耐光堅牢度
Migration Fastness 遷移堅牢度
Perspiration 耐汗性
Wash 耐水洗性
Dry Cleaning 耐乾洗性
PVC Migration 耐PVC遷移性
Migration into a finish 耐塗層遷移性
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 3
Dyestuff Levelness – Key Issues that effect levelness
染料的勻染性 – 影響勻染性的主要問題
– Wet blue
– 藍濕皮
– The chrome distribution of wet blue is ALWAYS uneven
– 鉻在藍濕皮中的分佈通常都不均勻
– We try to limit this by rechroming
– 我們會進行鉻複鞣來改善這種不均勻性
– This can only minimize the problem
– 儘量減少不均勻性問題
Taiwan Roadshow – So the dye selection is very important because…
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
– 因此，染料的選擇相當重要，因為…
24.01.2006 Slide 4
染料的勻染性 – 影響勻染性的要點
– Dye Selection 染料的選擇
– All dyes have different affinities 所有染料的親和力都不同
– Need select dyes which have affinities as similar as possible
– 必須盡可能選擇親和能力相似的染料
– Homogeneous dyes preferable 最好選擇單一染料
– Cheap dye mixtures are generally made up of dyes with very
different affinities
廉價混合型染料通常由親和力相差很大成分組成
– The components exhaust at different rates !
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
染料成分的結合吸收率不同！
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 5
– Results in poor levelness ! 結果勻染性很差
染料的勻染性 -影響勻染性的要點
– Dye Selection – HOW CLARIANT IS DIFFERENT
染料的選擇 – 科萊恩的染料很具特色
– Sandoderm Range
Sandoderm 系列
– These dyes were DEVELOPED with similar affinities
以相似的親和力而生產出的染料
– Very combinable
配伍能力強
Taiwan Roadshow – Optimum Levelness
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
最佳的勻染性
24.01.2006 Slide 6
Dye Selection – HOW CLARIANT IS DIFFERENT
LEATHER DYES. 皮革染色

Clariant has a specific leather dye R&D
科萊恩有特殊的皮革染料研發機構
Not simply a textile R&D making leather dyes
不是簡單在紡織染料基礎上研發的皮革染料
our dyes made for leather
我們的染料主要針對皮革而生產
our dyes made by leather people
我們的染料是由專業皮革人士而製造
Taiwan Roadshow the only company that can say this
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather 只有我們公司堪稱如此
24.01.2006 Slide 7
– Dye Selection – HOW CLARIANT IS DIFFERENT
– Homogeneous 單一型
– 90% of all Clariant dyes ARE HOMOGENEOUS
科萊恩90%的染料是單一型的
– Any mixtures are tailor made
任何混合染料都是按實際需要製造的
– i.e the components carefully selected for combinability
Taiwan Roadshow 例如這些組份考慮其結合力仔細挑選出來的
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 8
Mixture or homogeneous – how do we know ?
混合型還是單一型– 我們怎麼識別？
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 9
Mixture or homogeneous – how do we know ?
混合型還是單一型– 我們怎麼識別？
– TLC – Thin layer chromatography TLC – 薄層色譜法
– can separate components and give is information
– 能分離不同的成分並給出資訊
– the solvent separates the dye into its components
– 溶劑使不同成分的染料分層
Copy or Original ? 是仿製的還是最初的？

– Here we see homogeneous Acid Brown 360
– 由左邊我們能看到單一型的酸性棕360
– Next to it a cheaper available copies
– 旁邊是兩個廉價的仿製產品
– can see that the ‘copy 1’ contains
– 4 different dyestuffs
– 能看出‘copy 1’ 含4種不同染料
Taiwan Roadshow
Public – can see that the ‘copy 2’ contains
Steve Brown
BU Leather
– at least 6 different dyestuffs
24.01.2006 Slide 10 – 能看出‘copy 2’ 至少含6種不同染料
Mixture or homogeneous – what is the effect ?
混合型還是單一型– 影響是什麼？
– Both copies will look the same as Acid Brown 360 in the pattern card
這兩個仿製產品在樣品卡上顯示出與酸性棕360類似的顏色色調
– However because of the varying affinities of dyestuffs
但是因為染料的親和力差異
– they will dye different shades on different substrates
它們在不同的皮上呈現不同的色調
– the components will exhaust at different rates
成份吸收率不同
– this could cause 這將會導致
– Unlevelness 不均勻性
– variable penetration (different coloured cut edge)
滲透程度差異（切口色調差異）
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 11
Mixture or homogeneous – the easy test !
混合型還是單一型 – 簡單的測試！
– Wet a piece of filter paper 浸濕一張過濾紙
– ‘blow’ the dye powder onto the paper 將染料粉“吹” 到紙上
– the components are easily seen 成分顯而易見
Copy 1 ‘blow out’

Can easily see
– Brown dye 棕色染料
– Yellow dye 黃色染料
– Blue dye 藍色染料
– Bordeaux dye 紫色染料
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
– 4 different dyestuffs
Steve Brown
BU Leather
– 4種不同染料
24.01.2006 Slide 12
– MIXTURE 混合型
Dyestuff Penetration – Key Issues that effect penetration
染料滲透性 – 影響滲透的要點
– Substrate affinity / charge 原料皮的親和力/電荷
– rates and degree of anionic dye penetration influenced by
陰離子染料的滲透力有以下影響因素
– relative affinities of the dyestuff for the substrate
染料對於物質的相對親和力
– more cationic substrates – less penetration
陽離子性越強 – 滲透性越差
– more anionic substrates – more penetration
陰離子性越強 – 滲透性越好
Taiwan Roadshow
– For cationic dyes the opposite is true
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
對於陽離子染料正好相反
24.01.2006 Slide 13
Dyestuff Penetration – Key Issues that effect penetration
染料滲透性 -影響滲透的要點
– Dyestuff affinity / charge 染料的親和力/電荷
– we already stated that all dyes have different affinities
我們已經說明了所有的染料都具有不同的親和力
– same rules for levelness apply to penetration
滲透性跟勻染性原則類似
– dyes of similar affinities should be selected
選擇相似親和力的染料
– unbalanced mixtures should be avoided
避免挑選不均勻混合的染料
Taiwan Roadshow
– molecular weight and solubility of the dye also has an effect
Public
Steve Brown 染料的分子量和溶解性同樣有影響
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 14
Dyestuff Penetration / Levelness – a little extra help !
染料滲透性/勻染性 – 一些特別有用的方法
– Since no two dyestuffs are identical
因為沒有任何兩種染料是一樣的
– it is never possible to have identical affinities
所以絕不可能有同樣的親和力
– we limit these differences by careful dye selection
我們通過對染料的仔細挑選來減小差異
– but we can also use auxiliaries to improve this further
但是我們也可以使用助劑來改善這種情況
– Coralon OT p
Taiwan Roadshow
– Dermagen GP Liquid
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 15
Coralon OT p
– Fiber substantive leveling / penetration agent, works by :
– 親纖維物質的勻染劑/滲透劑，通過
– takes up surface sights on the substrate so :
先佔據皮革的表面
– slows down the rate of surface exhaustion
減緩皮表面與染料的結合速度
– more levelness 勻染性更好
– forces the dyestuff into the substrate to find places to fix
促進染料滲入皮內並與之結合
– better penetration 滲透性更好
– offers up to 2% based on shaved weight 基於削勻革用量可達2%
– added 10-15 mins before the dyestuff 染色前10-15分鐘加入
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
– suitable for pale to medium depth shades only
Steve Brown
BU Leather
適合淺色和中等色調的染色
24.01.2006 Slide 16
Dermagen GP Liquid
– Dye substantive leveling / penetration agent, works by :
– 親染料的勻染滲透劑，
– complexes with the dyestuff blocking their reactive sites
– 與染料結合以此封閉染料的反應點
– dye cannot fix on the available sites
染料不能固定在反應點上
– closer rates of exhaustion so better levelness
拉近染料的結合速度因此勻染性更好
– dyes penetrate much quicker and easier
染料滲透更快更容易
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 17
Dermagen GP Liquid
– on acidification the dyes are released to fix properly
在酸性情況下染料能得以釋放並與皮適當地結合
– the Dermagen GP Liquid is washed away
Dermagen GP Liquid可以洗掉
– offers up to 2% based on shaved weight
基於削勻革用量可達2%
– added 5-10 mins before the dyestuff
染色前5-10分鐘加入
– suitable for medium to full depth shades
適合中等和深色調
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 18
Dermagen GP Liquid
No
Auxiliary
Dermagen
GP Liquid
Competitor
Product
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 19
Light fastness – Key issues that effect light fastness
耐光性 – 影響耐光的主要問題
– Light fastness is governed by the dyestuff structure
耐光性能由染料結構決定
– Light is energy – energy can change a molecular structure
光是一種能量 – 能量會改變一個分子的結構
– In dyes this changes causes fading or colour change
對於染料，這種變化會導致褪色或色調改變
– If the structure is stable then light fastness will be good
如果結構穩定那麼耐光性就好
– Some dyes have very stable structure
有些染料結構相當穩定
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
– Some do not, but we can improve this by metallization
Steve Brown
BU Leather
Clariant Chemicals (China) Ltd 有些不穩定，但我們可以通過金屬絡合的方法來改善
24.01.2006 Slide 20
Light fastness – The effects of metallization on light fastness
耐光性 – 金屬絡合對耐光的影響
SANDODERM
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 21
Migration fastness – Key issues that effect migration fastness
遷移堅牢度 – 影響遷移性的要點
Migration fastness is also governed by structure
遷移堅牢度同樣由分子結構決定
– molecular weight 分子量
– number of sulphonic groups 硫酸基團的數目
– number and type of azo groups 偶氮基團的數目和類型
– Metallization 金屬絡合
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 22
遷移堅牢度 – 影響遷移堅牢度的要點
– effect of structure 結構的影響
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 23
– effect of structure 結構的影響
LOW BUILD UP LOW BUILD UP

HIGH MIGRATION 染色深度差 HIGH
TO TEXTILE
深度差，易遷移
至紡織品
NUMBER OF
SULPHONIC
OK
GROUPS BAD PVC
BAD PVC
磺化基團的數目 MIGRATION
LOW
TO TEXTILE
SOLUBILITY
耐PVC遷移性差
耐PVC 遷移性差，
，易遷移至紡織
溶解性差
LOW 品 LOW
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
LOW HIGH
24.01.2006 Slide 24
MOLECULAR WEIGHT 分子量
– Migration fastness is also heavily influenced by impurities
– 不純成分對遷移堅牢度的影響也很大
– during synthesis reaction by products can be formed
– 在產品合成反應中形成的
– these are called impurities
– 這些被稱為不純成分
– these can be limited by tight control of the reaction :
– 通過對反應的嚴格控制可以減少
– Temperature 溫度
– Pressure 壓強
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown – pH pH
BU Leather
– mechanical operations i.e stirring 機械操作即攪動

24.01.2006 Slide 25
– Migration fastness is also heavily influenced by impurities
不純成分對遷移堅牢度的影響也很大
– impurities can also come from low quality raw materials
原材料也有可能含有不純成分
– if they are present in the raw materials they cannot be eliminated during the
reaction
如果原材料裏含有不純成分那麼不可能在反應中除去
– the quantity, molecular weight and the solubility of these impurities have a
direct influence on migration :
這些不純成分的數量，分子量和溶解性都會直接影響到遷移性能
– PVC migration PVC 遷移
– Migration through the finish 通過塗層遷移
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown – Wash / perspiration / rub etc 水洗/汗/摩擦
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 26
– Migration fastness the effect of impurities
不純成分對遷移堅牢度的影響
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 27
– If we examine the TLC plate we can understand the reduction in fastness
properties in the counter to Acid Brown 432
通過看TLC 矽膠板我們知道這些混合染料相對於酸性棕432的堅牢度
等級有所減少
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 28
– Now we reveal the dyestuffs…
– 現在我們對染料進行分析
Sandoderm Brown R and Cheap ‘Copy’

Sandoderm Brown R 和廉價的‘複製品’
– Poor control of reaction – impurities
反應時控制不當-不純成分
– Poor raw material – impurities
廉價原材料 –不純成分
– needs shading because of this
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
必須以其他色調遮蓋
BU Leather
Clariant Chemicals (China) Ltd – POOR FASTNESS PROPERTIES
24.01.2006 Slide 29
堅牢度差
– Impurities – How Clariant control these..
不純成分– 科萊恩是如何控制這些…
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown 原材料是經過嚴格控
BU Leather
Clariant Chemicals (China) Ltd 制才用於生產線
24.01.2006 Slide 30
控制每樣參數
每個生產步驟
都被監測和登
記
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 31
This means we can produce dyestuffs with a complete lack of :
這意味著我們生產出的染料完全不含：
– Insoluble impurities 不溶解雜質
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 32
Dyestuff Migration – a little extra help !
染色遷移性 - 一些特別有用的方法
– Since no two dyestuffs are identical
因為沒有完全相同的兩種染料
– and migration fastness is based on the structure
並且遷移性是以化學結構為基礎
– we produce the optimum structures for fastness
我們為得到更好的堅牢度而生產最適宜化學結構的產品
– but we can also use auxiliaries to improve this further
但是我們也可以利用助劑來改善
– in particular perspiration fastness
– 特別的耐汗堅牢度
– Tanfix AL Liquid
– Dermafix P Liquid
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 33
Tanfix AL Liquid
– Aluminium Hydrochloride based fixing / build up agent
– 堿式氯化鋁結構的固定劑和加深劑
– applied as an aftertreatment for fixation
作為固定劑用於後處理
– improves the dye / substrate bond
增加染料與皮纖維的結合點
– reduces the migration tendency
降低遷移的可能性
基於削勻革用量可達2%
– applied in a fresh (clean*) bath at the end of processing
於工藝後階段的新鮮浴液
– * bath must be clean to prevent precipitation of anionic materials otherwise
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
reduction in rub fastness
Steve Brown
BU Leather 浴液必須乾淨以防止與陰離子物質產生沉澱從而降低耐擦性
24.01.2006 Slide 34
Dermafix P Liquid
– Specialty cationic dyestuff fixing agent
特殊的陽離子染色固定劑
– superb improvements in perspiration fastness achievable
能夠很好地改進耐汗堅牢度
– improves the dye / substrate bond
加強染料與皮纖維之間的作用鍵
– reduces the migration tendency
降低遷移的可能性
基於削勻革用量2%
– applied in a fresh (clean*) bath at the end of processing
用於工藝後階段的新鮮浴液
– * bath must be clean to prevent precipitation of anionic materials otherwise
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
reduction in rub fastness
Steve Brown
BU Leather 浴液必須乾淨以防止與陰離子物質產生沉澱從而降低耐擦性
24.01.2006 Slide 35
Dermafix P Liquid
The two most difficult types of dye to gain good perspiration fastness…
在兩種不同類型染料獲得良好的耐汗堅牢度
– Acid Black 210 – general all round poor perspiration fastness
酸性黑210 – 耐汗堅牢度普遍較差
– Direct Red – textile type dye always stains cotton
直接紅 – 紡織型染料，易於棉上的染色
Taiwan Roadshow
Public – this was designed to dye cotton ! 這種染料設計用於染棉
Steve Brown
BU Leather
Clariant Chemicals (China) Ltd – with DERMAFIX P LIQUID – Excellent perspiration fastness
24.01.2006 Slide 36 使用DERMAFIX P LIQUID - 極好的耐汗堅牢度
Summary How Clariant Meets YOUR Needs
科萊恩如何滿足你們的需要
– Dye R&D is focused on leather application
– 染料的研發主要針對皮革應用
– Produced to meet the needs of the tanners by tanners
– 產品滿足廠家客戶需要
– Raw materials are screened for impurities
– 考慮雜質而對原材料的篩選
– Synthesis is controlled and monitored
– 對合成生產的控制和監測
– 90% of all our dyes are homogeneous
– 我們的染料90%都是單一型
– Any mixture are ‘tailor made’ for performance
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
– 任何混合染料都是按需而造的
BU Leather
Clariant Chemicals (China) Ltd – Specialty auxiliaries offered to enhance performance
24.01.2006 Slide 37
– 使用特殊助劑以提高其性能
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006
The Key Dyestuff Ranges.

Sandoderm Dyestuffs
The only range of dyes produced specifically for leather application
專門用於皮革的特殊系列染料
– Metal complex dyes for shoe, upholstery and garment
– 用於鞋，傢俱革和服裝革的金屬絡合染料
– High combinability 極高的配伍性
– Wide range of shades achievable 色調範圍廣泛
– Excellent penetration 極好的滲透性
– Excellent light fastness 極好的耐光性
– Excellent migration fastness 極好的遷移性
– Optimum acid dyes available for washable articles
– 耐水洗性能好的最適宜的酸性染料
Taiwan Roadshow
– Even fast to the pH 9 test !
– 甚至可以在pH =9時測試堅牢度
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 39
Sandoderm Dyestuffs – The Range
Suitable for widely different substrates 廣泛適用於不同的種類的皮源

– Wet blue 藍濕皮 - cationic substrate 皮上帶陽離子電荷
– Wet white 白濕皮 - more anionic substrate 皮上相對陰離子電荷
Taiwan Roadshow
Public 較多
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 40
Sandoderm Dyestuffs – The Range
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 41
Sandoderm Dyestuffs – Combinability
High combinability between the range members

這系列染料相互間配伍性高
– Huge number of attainable shades 可獲得大量不同色調
– Here we see :這裏我們可以看到
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown – Grey GB / Brown R / Yellow / Dark Brown / Yellow
BU Leather
Clariant Chemicals (China) Ltd Brown / Brown DGV combinations 配伍性
24.01.2006 Slide 42
Sandoderm Dyestuffs – Combinability
High combinability between the range members 相互間配伍性高

– Huge number of attainable shades
可獲得大量不同色調
Taiwan Roadshow – Here we see : 這裏我們可以看到

Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
– Olive GB / Yellow Brown R / Brown R / Navy RB / Red G and
24.01.2006 Slide 43
Brown G combinations 配伍性
Sandoderm Dyestuffs – Fastness
Migration Fastness to Plasticized PVC (IUF442) 耐PVC 遷移堅牢度(IUF442)

Taiwan Roadshow
– All show excellent results 所有的染料測試結果極好
Public
Steve Brown – The synthesis, structure and the impurities are all controlled
BU Leather
Clariant Chemicals (China) Ltd – 合成，結構和不純成分都受控制生產
24.01.2006 Slide 44
BLACK R
DARK BROWN R
GREY GB
NAVY RB
OLIVE G
RED G
BROWN DGV
BROWN R
BROWN G
YELLOW BROWN
R
ORANGE R
YELLOW R
0 1 2 3 4 5 6
Light fastness (IUF402) 耐光堅牢度(IUF402)
Taiwan Roadshow – All show excellent results 所有的染料測試結果極好
Public
Steve Brown – Metal complex dyes based mainly on chromium and cobalt
BU Leather
– 主要是鉻和鈷金屬絡合染料
24.01.2006 Slide 45
BLACK R
DARK BROWN R
GREY GB
NAVY RB
OLIVE G
RED G
BROWN DGV
BROWN R
BROWN G
YELLOW BROWN R
ORANGE R
YELLOW R
0 1 2 3 4 5
Perspiration Fastness (IUF426) 耐汗堅牢度(IUF426)
Taiwan Roadshow – All show excellent results 測試結果極好
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
– The synthesis, structure and the impurities are all controlled
– 合成，結構和不純成分都得到控制
24.01.2006 Slide 46
BLACK R
DARK BROWN R
GREY GB
NAVY RB
OLIVE G
RED G
BROWN DGV
BROWN R
BROWN G
YELLOW BROWN R
ORANGE R
YELLOW R
0 1 2 3 4 5
Wash Fastness (IUF423) 耐水洗堅牢度 (IUF423)
Taiwan Roadshow – All show excellent results 測試結果極好
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
– The synthesis, structure and the impurities are all controlled
– 合成，結構和不純成分都得到控制
24.01.2006 Slide 47
Sandoderm Dyestuffs
Clariant are constantly looking at new molecules and manufacturing
process’s
科萊恩在不斷研究新型分子和生產工藝
In 2004 two new Sandoderms were launched

2004年，有兩個新的Sandoderm 染料投放市場
Sandoderm Bordeaux B p
Sandoderm Red Brown W p
In 2006 the range was completed with the launch of

2006年，此系列得到完善
Sandoderm Brown CB p
Sandoderm Black D p
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
These are all new dyestuffs 這些都是新型染料
Steve Brown
BU Leather
Unavailable from any other supplier 難以從其他供應商獲得
24.01.2006 Slide 48
Sandoderm Dyestuffs
Clariant saw a technical ‘gap’ in this shade area

科萊恩發現市場上此色系都有一個技術上的缺陷
Traditionally Acid Red 119 or Violet 90 used 傳統的酸性紅119 或紫90
Textile based dyes 紡織型染料
Poor staining to cotton 棉的沾色等級差 (c.a. 1-2)
Poor staining to wool 羊毛沾色等級差 (c.a. 1-2)
Poor light fastness 耐光等級差 (c.a. 2-3)
Full R&D Project to develop a Bordeaux 為發展Bordeaux系列，有一套全面的研

發方案
Successful : Sandoderm Bordeaux B p
碩果：Sandoderm Bordeaux B p
Staining to cotton 棉的沾色等級 (c.a. 4-5)
Staining to wool 羊毛沾色等級 (c.a. 3-4)
Light fastness 耐光等級 (c.a. 5)
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
Clariant – Meeting the needs of the market with –
BU Leather
Clariant Chemicals (China) Ltd 科萊恩 – 滿足市場需求 -
24.01.2006 Slide 49
PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS 完善產品性能
Sandoderm Dyestuffs
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Brochures available for collection !
Steve Brown
BU Leather
適於收藏的小冊子！
24.01.2006 Slide 50
Sandoderm Dyestuffs
Clariant saw a shade ‘gap’ in this shade area

科萊恩發現市場上此色系都有色調的缺陷
No high fast red browns of this shade available
此紅棕色系染料堅牢度不高
Full R&D Project to develop a high fast shade in this area

為提高色調堅牢度，我們有一套全面的研發方案
Successful : Sandoderm Red Brown W p
碩果： Sandoderm Red Brown W p
Staining to cotton 棉的沾色等級 (c.a. 4-5)
Staining to wool 羊毛的沾色等級 (c.a. 4-5)
Light fastness 耐光等級 (c.a. 4-5)
Taiwan Roadshow
Clariant – Meeting the needs of the market with
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
科萊恩 – 滿足市場需求
24.01.2006 Slide 51
YOUR COLOUR REQUIREMENTS 您們對顏色的要求
Sandoderm Dyestuffs
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 52
Sandoderm Dyestuffs
Clariant saw a shade ‘gap’ in this shade area

科萊恩發現市場上此色系都有色調缺陷
With performance and ECONOMY
經濟又實用
Full R&D Project to develop a high fast shade in this area

為提高色調堅牢度，我們有一套全面的研發方案
Successful : Sandoderm Brown CB p
硕果：Sandoderm Brown CB p
Nice mid brown shade 很好的中間色調棕色
Excellent fastness 極好的堅牢度
Very economical ! 非常經濟實惠
Clariant – Meeting the needs of the market with 科萊恩 – 滿足市場需求

Taiwan Roadshow YOUR COLOUR REQUIREMENTS 您們對顏色的要求
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather YOUR FASTNESS REQUIREMENTS 您們對堅牢度的要求
24.01.2006 Slide 53 YOUR COST REQUIREMENTS 您們對成本的要求
Sandoderm Dyestuffs
SANDODERM BROWN CB p
The middle brown shade of this dye, in between Sandoderm Brown G and
Brown R, as well as their excellent dyeing and fastness properties and, last
but not least,
its very economical production cost.
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
适于收藏的小册子！
24.01.2006 Slide 54
Sandoderm Dyestuffs
Sandoderm Black D p
Clariant already have the No.1 fastness black
科萊恩已經擁有堅牢度等級一流的黑色染料
Sandoderm Black R p – unbeatable performance on leather
Sandoderm Black R p – 無與倫比的性能
The market loved the fastness but commented

在市場中它的堅牢性能很受歡迎，但是有以下意見
Shade on the blue side 在藍皮上的色調
Cost is restrictive to extensive use 廣泛應用中的成本限制
Full R&D Project to develop a new black to address these issues

對於這些問題我們有一套全面的研發方案來發展新型黑色染料
Successful : Sandoderm Black D p 碩果： Sandoderm Black D p
Much deeper intense black shade 黑色強度高
Very high fastness achievable 堅牢度高
Very economical ! 十分經濟實惠
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Clariant – Meeting the needs of the market with 科萊恩 – 滿足市場需求
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 55 YOUR REQUESTS REALISED 達成您們的需要
Sandoderm Dyestuffs
Sandoderm Black D p
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 56
Derma Dyestuffs
Range of acid and direct dyes for universal use

一系列酸性和直接性通用型染料
Excellent build up properties 極好的上染性
No impurities (good fastness) 不含不純成分（堅牢度較好）
Full range of shades 色系全面
Members carefully selected for use on leather 精心挑選的皮革染料
Excellent penetration properties 極好的滲透性
High light fastness achievable (via selection)
可達到很高的耐光堅牢度（經過挑選）
90% of the range are homogeneous 90%的染料都是單一型
Any mixtures are ‘tailor made’ balanced blends
Taiwan Roadshow 任何混合型的都是按需而造的
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 57
Derma Dyestuffs – The Range
Derma Dyestuffs – 系列
Derma Yellow GL p Derma Green BS p

Derma Red BG p 50 Derma Blue RF p
Derma Red BA p 150 Derma Blue 5R p
Derma Bordeaux V p 120 Derma Blue DBN p
Derma Beige D p Derma Grey D p
Derma Brown 3GNF p Derma Grey LL p
Derma Yellow Brown GS p
Derma Brown 5G p 200
Derma Carbon BFN p
Derma Brown 3GL p 250
Derma Carbon NBS p
Derma Havana R p
Blue – New Additions. Derma Carbon AFR p
Derma Havana HG p
Derma Carbon 4P p
Derma Havana G p
Derma Brown 3R p
Derma Brown G2R p 140
Derma Brown RB p 140
Derma Red Brown RO p
Derma Brown CR p
Derma Brown DR p
Taiwan Roadshow Derma Brown D3G p
Public
Steve Brown Derma Brown D2GL p
BU Leather
Clariant Chemicals (China) Ltd Derma Dark Brown VP p
24.01.2006 Slide 58 Derma Olive GB p
Derma Dyestuffs – The Range
Complimentary shades 口碑極佳的色調
The following bright shades can be used to compliment the range
以下鮮豔色調作為對系列的補充應用
Give the Derma dyes a new ‘fashion’ edge
使Derma染料具有新型“流行”色調的優勢
Solar Orange 2GL p 200

Sandolan Brilliant Red N-BG p 125
Sandolan Rhodamine E-BN p 300
Drimarene Green X-3GL CDG
Solar Turquoise Blue F-BL p 400
Taiwan Roadshow
Sandolan Cyanine N-6BN p 275
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 59
Dermasoft – Innovation from Clariant
Dermasoft – 科萊恩的創新
Pastel colours and beiges have always been a problem area for tanners.
淺色和米色染料在制革廠中的應用總存在些問題
Two methods are commonly used :普遍應用的兩種方法：

– using a small amount of standard strength acid dye
– 運用少量標準濃度的酸性染料
– added with dispersant / penetration agents
– 加入分散劑或滲透劑
– dyeings tend to be unlevel and show poor penetration
– 染色時易出現染色不均勻及滲透性差
– pre-mixed dye and dispersant combinations are offered by many suppliers
– 許多供應商可提供經預先混和染料和分散助劑的混合物
– this tends to perform better than the first method
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
– 這種方法比第一種性能好些
Steve Brown
BU Leather
– but is still problematic for levelness and penetration
24.01.2006 Slide 60 – 但是依然存在染色不均勻和滲透性差的問題
Dermasoft – 科莱恩的创新
Clariant can now offer the solution – Dermasoft
科莱恩为了解决这个问题 - Dermasoft
The dyes are chemically pre-dispersed

这些是经预化学分散的染料
– therefore the dye and dispersant act as a single molecule
– 因此染料和分散剂结合后成为单一的分子
– so are carried evenly and quickly through the substrate
– 因此它与皮革作用均匀，渗透快
– Dermasoft also allows levels of fastness previously unattainable from pastel
shades and beiges :
– Dermasoft 能够达到以往浅色和米色不能达到的坚牢度等级
– PVC Migration 耐PVC迁移性 : 5
– Light Fastness 耐光性 : 3-4
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
– Perspiration Fastness 耐汗性 : 4-5
– Wash Fastness 耐水洗性 : 3-4 (minimum）（至少）
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 61
What is a pre-dispersion ? 什麼是預分散？
Below we see the standard method to produce a pastel shade and also the ‘Soft’
way. 以下我們看到的是生產淺色調染料及以‘Soft’形式的標準方法
NORMAL WAY常規 “SOFT” WAY本方法
REACTION MASS反應料 REACTION MASS反應料
CHEMICAL
PRE-DISPERSION
INTERACTION
預分散
化學反應
NORMAL DYE常規染料 DERMA SOFT DYE
PHYSICAL DISPERSANT
MIXTURE
DISPERSANT
分散劑分散劑
物理混合
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
LEATHER DYEING LEATHER DYEING
24.01.2006 Slide 62 PASTEL SHADE染淺色調 PASTEL SHADE染淺色調
The mixture shows individual dye and dispersant molecules

Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
混合物中染料和分散劑分子是獨立存在的
BU Leather
Clariant Chemicals (China) Ltd The Dermasoft pre-dispersion shows combined molecules
24.01.2006 Slide 63
預分散的Dermasoft 是結合在一起的分子
Summary - Dermasoft
High penetration
滲透性好
Excellent levelness and fault coverage
極好的均勻性和遮蓋性
High fastness achievable
達到很高的堅牢度
Excellent combinability amongst the range
在整個色系裏相互間的配伍性高
Taiwan Roadshow
DERMASOFT THE SOLUTION FROM CLARIANT
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather DERMASOFT源自科萊恩的解決方法
24.01.2006 Slide 64
Remacor Remaderm – Economy and Reliability
Remacor Remaderm – 經濟、可靠
Compact range of dyestuffs designed for shoe uppers

專門用於鞋面革的簡便系列染料
High combinability amongst the range 相互間的配伍性高
Classic range of ‘shoe’ shades 鞋面顏色一流
Homogeneous dyestuffs 單一型的染料
Good economy 經濟實惠
Excellent build up properties 上染性極好
Medium levels of fastness attainable 可達到中等堅牢度
In 2005 the range was extended 2005年，此系列得到補充
New ‘higher performance’ dyestuffs added 增加了新的更高性能的新
染料
Larger colour range attainable 色調範圍更廣
Also suitable for upholstery and garment leathers
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown 同樣適用於傢俱和服裝革
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 65
Remacor Remaderm – Economy and Reliability
Remacor Remaderm – 經濟、可靠
The ‘new’ Remacor / Remaderm Range
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 66
Summary 摘要
Clariants direction 科萊恩的方向
– Clariant offers the full range of dyestuffs and auxiliaries to meet every
tanners need
為了滿足每個制革廠家的需要，科萊恩提供整系列的染料及
助劑
– Clariant continues in its efforts to provide new and innovative solutions
to the market
科萊恩不斷努力向市場提供新型的、創新的解決方法
– Clariants efforts in R&D not only cover new products but also in
optimizing existing process’s and products
科萊恩不僅致力於研發新型產品而且努力優化現有生產流程
和產品
Taiwan Roadshow
– an ongoing rationalization of manufacturing costs
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather 也正在努力使製造成本合理化
24.01.2006 Slide 67
Process / Manufacturing Optimization
工艺/制造最优化
Clariants Economy
科萊恩經濟實惠
– Clariant quality and performance has never been doubted

科萊恩產品質量及性能是毋庸置疑的
– Mention Clariant dyestuffs and the response is always favorable
科萊恩染料的口碑極好
– ‘Clariant dyes excellent products…….. but’

“科萊恩的染料相當好……但是”
– There is always a ‘but’ !

總是有“但是”
– ‘….but just to expensive for us !’
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
Steve Brown
“….但就是太貴了！”
– However times change……..and companies adapt
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 68
然而公司不斷地對價格做出較合理的調整
工藝/製造最優化
Clariants Economy
– Alongside our continuous R&D into new products Clariants other focus has been ;
在不斷研發新型產品的同時，科萊恩也很重視
– Optimization of manufacturing costs and process’s

製造成本和工藝的最優化
– Raw materials
原材料
– Processes optimized for maximum reaction yields
最優化的工藝以達到最大限度的生產效益
– Manual handling cost dramatically cut
Taiwan Roadshow
Public
人工處理成本顯著減少
Supply chains (routes to market) shortened
Steve Brown
BU Leather –
24.01.2006 Slide 69 供應鏈縮短（產品到達市場的路線）
工艺/制造最优化
Clariants Economy
– This has led to reductions in manufacturing costs

— 首先降低製造成本
– We can now offer :
– 我們現在能提供：
– Guaranteed Clariant Quality 科萊恩產品的質量保證

– At a much more economical cost 更加經濟的成本
Clariant Dyes + Economy !

科萊恩的染料+經濟型！
‘The perfect combination’
Taiwan Roadshow
“完美組合”
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 70
New for 2006.
The final piece of the dyestuff story….

來到染料部分的尾聲了
We have already shown and proven the :

我們已經展示並證明了：
– Guaranteed Clariant Quality 科萊恩產品的質量保證

– At a much more economical cost 更加經濟的成本
Clariant Dyes + Economy !
科萊恩的染料+經濟型！
Now we can also offer local supply !

現在我們還可以提供本土供應！
40 dyestuffs now in stock in Hong Kong and China
Taiwan Roadshow
現在香港和中國大陸有40種染料的庫存
Much quicker supply to the market
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather

24.01.2006 Slide 71
更快地滿足市場供應需求
New for 2006.
The final piece of the dyestuff story….

來到染料部分的尾聲了
Before we offered : Quality and Economy giving :

以前我們提供：質量和經濟實惠：
‘The perfect combination’
“極好的結合”
Now we offer : Quality / Economy AND LOCAL STOCK giving :

現在我們提供：質量、經濟實惠以及本地庫存：
‘The ULTIMATE combination’
“最佳的結合”
Take a fresh look, you’ll be pleasantly surprised !

Taiwan Roadshow
這是些會讓您們驚喜的全新產品！
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
24.01.2006 Slide 72
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
Any Questions ?
24.01.2006
問題解答
Public
Steve Brown
BU Leather
Thank you for listening!

24.01.2006
謝謝您們！
The end of our presentation.

皮革染色過程的主要問題及移染探討

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皮革染色過程的主要問題及移染探討

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High Fastness Dyeing.

 Dyestuff Levelness 染料的勻染性

 LEATHER DYES. 皮革染色

 Copy or Original ? 是仿製的還是最初的？

 Copy 1 ‘blow out’

LOW BUILD UP LOW BUILD UP

– mechanical operations i.e stirring 機械操作即攪動

 Sandoderm Brown R and Cheap ‘Copy’

The Key Dyestuff Ranges.

 Suitable for widely different substrates 廣泛適用於不同的種類的皮源

 High combinability between the range members

 High combinability between the range members 相互間配伍性高

Taiwan Roadshow – Here we see : 這裏我們可以看到

 Migration Fastness to Plasticized PVC (IUF442) 耐PVC 遷移堅牢度(IUF442)

 In 2004 two new Sandoderms were launched

 In 2006 the range was completed with the launch of

 Clariant saw a technical ‘gap’ in this shade area

 Full R&D Project to develop a Bordeaux 為發展Bordeaux系列，有一套全面的研

 Clariant saw a shade ‘gap’ in this shade area

 Full R&D Project to develop a high fast shade in this area

 Clariant saw a shade ‘gap’ in this shade area

 Full R&D Project to develop a high fast shade in this area

 Clariant – Meeting the needs of the market with 科萊恩 – 滿足市場需求

 The market loved the fastness but commented

 Full R&D Project to develop a new black to address these issues

 Range of acid and direct dyes for universal use

Derma Yellow GL p Derma Green BS p

Solar Orange 2GL p 200

 Two methods are commonly used :普遍應用的兩種方法：

 The dyes are chemically pre-dispersed

NORMAL WAY常規 “SOFT” WAY本方法

REACTION MASS反應料 REACTION MASS反應料

 The mixture shows individual dye and dispersant molecules

 Compact range of dyestuffs designed for shoe uppers

 The ‘new’ Remacor / Remaderm Range

– Clariant quality and performance has never been doubted

– ‘Clariant dyes excellent products…….. but’

– There is always a ‘but’ !

– Optimization of manufacturing costs and process’s

– This has led to reductions in manufacturing costs

– Guaranteed Clariant Quality 科萊恩產品的質量保證

 Clariant Dyes + Economy !

 The final piece of the dyestuff story….

We have already shown and proven the :

– Guaranteed Clariant Quality 科萊恩產品的質量保證

 Now we can also offer local supply !

 The final piece of the dyestuff story….

Before we offered : Quality and Economy giving :

Now we offer : Quality / Economy AND LOCAL STOCK giving :

 Take a fresh look, you’ll be pleasantly surprised !

Thank you for listening!

You might also like

Dyestuff Levelness 染料的勻染性

LEATHER DYES. 皮革染色

Copy or Original ? 是仿製的還是最初的？

Copy 1 ‘blow out’

Sandoderm Brown R and Cheap ‘Copy’

Suitable for widely different substrates 廣泛適用於不同的種類的皮源

High combinability between the range members

High combinability between the range members 相互間配伍性高

Migration Fastness to Plasticized PVC (IUF442) 耐PVC 遷移堅牢度(IUF442)

In 2004 two new Sandoderms were launched

In 2006 the range was completed with the launch of

Clariant saw a technical ‘gap’ in this shade area

Full R&D Project to develop a Bordeaux 為發展Bordeaux系列，有一套全面的研

Clariant saw a shade ‘gap’ in this shade area

Full R&D Project to develop a high fast shade in this area

Clariant saw a shade ‘gap’ in this shade area

Full R&D Project to develop a high fast shade in this area

Clariant – Meeting the needs of the market with 科萊恩 – 滿足市場需求

The market loved the fastness but commented

Full R&D Project to develop a new black to address these issues

Range of acid and direct dyes for universal use

Two methods are commonly used :普遍應用的兩種方法：

The dyes are chemically pre-dispersed

The mixture shows individual dye and dispersant molecules

Compact range of dyestuffs designed for shoe uppers

The ‘new’ Remacor / Remaderm Range

Clariant Dyes + Economy !

The final piece of the dyestuff story….

Now we can also offer local supply !

The final piece of the dyestuff story….

Take a fresh look, you’ll be pleasantly surprised !