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 SS inger 401
titch

B ook

and Decorative Sewing Tips

by Sarah Bradberry
http://www.knitting-and.com
Decorative Machine Stitches
There are an enormous number of uses for the decorative stitches on sewing machines.
They can be used to embellish with pattern, create visual texture (and with some special
techniques, 3 dimensional texture), turn a fabric into a whole new design.
You can use them to embellish anything from the edges of an insertion, cuffs and
collars, buttonholes and pockets, to ribbons, embellish seams, the list goes on.
Here are a couple of samples I have sewn with the Singer 401G.

Sampler with decorative satin stitches worked over 4 strands of perle cotton. Sewn
using a multi-strand cording foot.

Bobbin work using zig-zag, straight and blind hem stitch. For another example, see the
“stupendous stitching” art work on the last page of this booklet.
When I first bought my Singer 401, I was intrigued by the “unknown stitches” that could
be made by using the left hand settings on the stitch dial D - J in conjunction with the
right hand settings and various fashion
discs.
When I couldn’t find a reference on-line,
I decided to stitch out all the variations
so I would have a record of all the usable
stitches on my machine.
As it turned out, each primary stitch (all
those letters on the right hand side), and
each fashion disc will give you on average
2-4 more stitches that are immediately
useful, with some giving you up to 8 more.
The rest of the variations are mostly ugly or not immediately useful, but by stitching them
out, I now have a lot more attractive stitches than I thought I did!
I am presenting them in this download-able format for anyone who would like a stitch
reference, or to help people decide which fashion discs, or cams, they would like to buy.
At the end of the booklet you’ll find a list of stitching tips that I have collected from
various sources to help get the best stitch outs possible.

How to Read My Samples

My machine is a Singer 401G, and I have recorded the length of most of my samples in
metric, which is the length of the stitch in mm.
My stitch length regulator is shown on the right,
with stitches per inch on the left and stitch length
in millimetres on the right.
If you have a 401A, your machine probably only
has stitches per inch. Here’s a handy reference so
you can still make sense of my samples.
24sts per inch = 1mm
16sts per inch = 1.5mm
12sts per inch = 2mm
8sts per inch = 3mm
Wherever my samples have a stitch length of 0.4
to 0.7mm, substitute the length that works well
with satin stitch with your thread and fabric.
Each sample was stitched on quilting weight cotton backed with heavy weight, non-woven iron on
interfacing. The first letter is the left hand dial setting (B or D to J)
The second letter is the right hand dial setting (K to S, with S meaning Special)
W = stitch width.
L = stitch length. Stitch lengths are in mm unless otherwise noted. Please see the previous page for
a conversion chart to stitches per inch.
On later samples you will see a number within a circle. This is the number of the fashion disc, or
cam, being used. All samples were stitched with size 50 sewing cotton in the bobbin.
Sample 1- Stitch L Please note that my upper tension should have been much looser on this
example. This sample was sewn with size 50 mercerised cotton.
Sample 2 - Stitch L continued
This sample was sewn with size 50 mercerised cotton.
I particularly like setting HL with a width of 3 and worked as satin stitch.
Sample 3 - Stitch M
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
At this point I didn’t realise my bobbin tension had loosened, which caused bobbin thread to show
on the front. I tightened it up and it hasn’t happened again. Also, my satin stitch length should
have been a bit longer.
Sample 4 - Stitch M continued
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
“3W” on the first sample means a width of 3.
Sample 5 - Stitch N
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
This is one of my favourite decorative stitches. I particularly like to use setting BN with a width of
5 and satin stitch with 4 threads of size 10 perle cotton in a cording foot.
Sample 6 - Stitch N continued
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
Sample 7 - Stitch O
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
I particularly like setting DO with a width of 3.
Sample 8 - Stitch O continued
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
Sample 9 - Stitch O continued
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
Setting JO with a width of 4, at maximum length, would make a nice line of bobbin work if you
turned the work around and worked two rows side by side. You’d have a line of stitching with
diamonds at regular intervals.
Sample 10 - Stitch P
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
I really like the variations that setting D, E and F give with this stitch. I think they’d look really nice
with a shorter stitch length for a true satin stitch look.
Sample 11 - Stitch P continued
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
Sample 12 - Stitch Q
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
DQ with a width of 3 is another of my favourites :-)
Sample 13 - Stitch Q continued
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
I didn’t find a lot of stitch variations that I liked with the Q primary stitch but the HQ settings
with the longer stitch settings deserve some experimentation. I think they would be interesting
if a second line was worked 1/4 to 1/2 an inch away and sewn from the other direction so they
formed a border. Perhaps framing a machined eyelet or hand embroidered daisy in the middle or
each “box”
Sample 14 - Stitch Q continued
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
I have no idea where I would use it but I quite like HQ with a width of 4 and length 1.5
Sample 15 - Stitch R
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
I love the DR setting when worked in satin stitch.
Sample 16 - Stitch R continued
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
FR with a width of 2 and satin stitch length apparently makes quite a nice scalloped edge on fine
fabrics
Sample 17 - Stitch R continued
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
Some more weird stitches that may make nice borders with something worked in between
Sample 18 - Stitch R continued
This sample was sewn with size 40 mercerised cotton.
Stitches Using Fashion Discs
The following samples were all worked using the fashion discs, or cams, and setting “S” or “Special”
on the right hand of the dial (this engages the fashion disc). The disc number for each sample is
written in a circle. Missing disc numbers are the same as the primary stitches and not needed.
Sample 19 - Disc 1
This sample was sewn with size 50 mercerised cotton.
My machine absolutely hated this thread. I’m not sure why I persevered with it for the whole page,
but that’s the reason for the appalling tension problems. With the satin stitch set shorter, the BS
setting actually stitches out lovely neat triangles. The settings are written on the right hand of each
line.
Sample 20 - Disc 1 continued
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
Sample 21 - Disc 1 continued
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
Sample 22 - Disc 2
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
I was surprised at how many usable stitches you can achieve with fashion disc 2. I especially like
the DS and ES settings.
Sample 23 - Disc 2 continued
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
Sample 24 - Disc 2 continued
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
Sample 25 - Disc 2 continued
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
Sample 26 - Disc 3
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
It was going to take me forever to stitch out all the variations in several stitch lengths so I decided
to stick to a length that would give you an idea what both satin and straight stitch designs might
look like.
At the end of this file you can see examples of disc 3 stitched out in several different threads,
ranging from size 50 to size 12.
Sample 27 - Disc 4 (Closed Scallop)
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
There are two versions of disc 4, this being the most common one, but not the one that came with
my machine. Since the other one is the same as disc 6 (an open scallop), I’ve chosen to show the
closed scallop version here.
Sample 28 - Disc 5
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
The ES setting with disc 5 gives quite a nice range of lozenge shapes.
Sample 29 - Disc 6 (this stitch is also the original disc 4 for some machines)
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
Setting ES with a width of 4 is a nice variation on the original stitch, with just a little extra width.
Disc 6 is also the same as the disc 4 that originally came with my machine.
Sample 30 - Disc 7
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
Worked at a setting of BS with a width of 5, this stitch is recommended for adding lace at the
bottom of a garment or on both sides of a lace insertion.
Sample 31 - Disc 11
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
Setting ES gives you some lovely variations on this stitch. It’s also one of my favourite stitches for
couching multiple rows of perle cotton when using a multi-thread cording foot.
Sample 32 - Disc 12
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
I like the way the DS settings give you a row of blocks on only one side. ES with a width of 2 looks
like a row of slippers :-)
Sample 33 - Disc 13
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
I think a few of these stitches need to be worked with a slightly longer length in order to see if
they’re useful or not.
Sample 34 - Disc 14
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
Sample 35 - Disc 15
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
Sample 36 - Disc 16
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
Sample 37 - Disc 17
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
This disc is not as common as the others and thus a bit expensive. If you stitch it out with a thick
green thread and work French knots on the widest part of the stitch it makes a very cute flower
border.
You only need the disc if you want to work variations other than BS with a width of 5 or twin/
two-needle sewing. Setting GR with a width of 3 will give you the same stitch as disc 17 setting BS
with a width of 5.
You can see stitch outs of all stitches with two needle sewing towards the end of this booklet.
Sample 38 - Disc 19
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
I really like the way setting DS with a width of 3 or 4 gives a little zig-zag to the straight stitches
between blocks. Worked closer together as a true satin stitch, this is a really nice decorative stitch.
Setting GS with a width of 4 is also kind of fun.
Sample 39 - Disc 20
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
When I first bought this disc I remember wishing the stitches were wider. Setting DS with a width
of 4 gave me exactly the look I wanted. I think HS with a width of 3 or 4 also needs to be worked
with a longer stitch length to see how that would look.
Sample 40 - Disc 21
This sample was sewn with size 50 sewing cotton.
The last disc available for the 401 is another one of my favourites. Worked at setting BS with a
width of 5, this is another great stitch for couching multiple rows of perle cotton with a cording
foot.
I also like the way Settings DS and ES seem to mirror each other when worked in widths 3 and 4.
Twin and Two Needle Sewing
In the 401, two needles can be placed side by side, or twin needles can be used. Some exciting
effects can be created using two needles and two very different threads. See the manual for details.
If you’re using a twin needle wider than a size 3, check that your chosen stitch will fit within the
maximum width of the machine before sewing.
Sample 41 - stitches L, M, N, O, P, Q and R (primary stitches)
These samples were sewn with size 50 mercerised cotton.
All of these samples were stitched with two size 90/14 embroidery needles and a width of 3. Length
is measured in stitches per inch.
Sample 42 - Fashion discs 1 - 7
These samples were sewn with size 50 mercerised cotton.
All of these samples were stitched with two size 90/14 embroidery needles and a width of 3. Length
is measured in stitches per inch.
Sample 43 - Fashion discs 11 - 17
These samples were sewn with size 50 mercerised cotton.
All of these samples were stitched with two size 90/14 embroidery needles and a width of 3. Length
is measured in stitches per inch.
Sample 44 - Fashion discs 19-21 and straight stitch
These samples were sewn with size 50 mercerised cotton.
All of these samples were stitched with two size 90/14 embroidery needles and a width of 3. Length
is measured in stitches per inch.
Straight stitch is worked with the red width lever set on number two only.
Tips for Decorative Stitching
• Stabiliser is important. You can use any type, including a hoop. Choose one that is
appropriate for your project.
• Use the right needle for your fabric and thread, such as metallica needle for metallic
thread or embroidery needle for fast satin stitching with rayon and polyester. I found
that a jeans needle size 100/16 was best for size 12 mercerised cotton on quilting
cotton backed with heavy weight iron on stabiliser.
• Use good quality thread. It doesn’t have to be expensive. Make sure it is smooth and
properly twisted, not fluffy. Vintage threads may or may not work, depending on
how they have been stored during their lifetime.
• Use the “special purpose” foot that came with your 401 or a satin stitch foot. These
have a groove underneath to stop the stitches bunching up on top of each other and
jamming the machine. Specialty feet such as cording and braiding feet will also work
• When working wide or satin stitches, lower the top tension on your machine. The
wider the stitch, the more you will need to loosen it. If wide satin stitches are losing
their definition and the bobbin thread is showing on the top of your work, the top
tension is probably too tight. If they are loopy and sloppy the top tension may be too
loose.
• Most of the time, decorative stitches are not structural. Therefore it doesn’t matter if
the top thread shows on the back as this will not weaken your construction.
• The best stitch length depends on your choice of thread, especially for satin stitch.
Keep a scrap piece of your chosen fabric and stabiliser to test your stitches.
• If your satin stitches are crossing each other, nudge the stitch length slightly longer.
They may be bunching too close together, which doesn’t look nice.

The Stitch Sampler

I recommend choosing the stitches you like for your project and stitching them out
with different threads, lengths and widths so you know exactly what they will look like
before starting your project. This will not only give you a record of various settings to
refer to for future projects, but also a chance to get to know which needles work with
different threads, and really get used to working creatively with your machine.
On the following page is a sampler I made with fashion disc number 3 and setting BS
with a width of 5.
I used a size 90/14 embroidery needle unless otherwise noted. Bobbin thread is size 50
cotton sewing thread throughout.
1. (Pink row on the left) Size 50 mercerised cotton with a tension of 2.5
2. Same thread with a tension of 0.5 and stitch length nudged slightly longer.
3. (Purple) Size 50 sewing cotton. Tension 0.5.
4. (Blue) Size 40 mercerised cotton. Tension 2.5. Changed to tension 1, which was a bit loose.
5. (Lavender) Size 50 polyester embroidery thread with a tension of 2.5
6. (Variegated orange) Size 30 mercerised cotton. Top tension of 2.5 (too tight), changed to 1.
7. Budget size 50 rayon embroidery thread. Top tension 0.
8. Good quality size 50 embroidery rayon. Top tension 0
9. Same thread with the top tension set at 1, then 0.5
10. Size 12 mercerised cotton. Top tension 0, and a size 100/16 jeans needle used.
Resources for Creative Sewing

Books
And So to Embroider
The Needlework Development Scheme, 1960
Whilst this book is about hand embroidery, it covers a lot of interesting ideas about
design and use of fabric that can be applied to decorative machine embroidery.

The New Machine Embroidery by Joy Clucas

Nelson Publishers, 1988
This book covers many free machine techniques that would work beautifully along side
decorative machine stitching plus appliqué, stitch shaping (changing the width of your
stitch as you sew), sewing over macramé rings, cut-work, 3 dimensional stitching and
design.

Fine Embellishment Techniques - Classic Details for Today’s Clothing by Jane

Conlon
The Taunton Press, 2001
Includes a section on bobbin work and decorative machine stitching, plus making your
own trims using machine stitching to embellish commercially manufactured trims and
other hand and machine embellishment and finishing techniques.

Classes
(Please note: These are affiliate links. I have taken and enjoyed both of these classes)

Stitch Savvy, Creative Machine Embellishments (Craftsy)

This class contains a couple of small sections that would be difficult to work with a
mechanical machine (involving combining stitches on the machine’s computer), but it
also covers an enormous range of techniques that you can do. This is a technique class
in which you create your own “notebook” full of stitched samples in whatever format
you choose.

Stupendous Stitching, Adventures in Surface Design (Craftsy)

This class is completely workable with a mechanical sewing machine. This is a
technique class in which you create a finished artwork that can be used in sewn projects
if you wish. It includes some other ideas on how to use decorative stitches as well.

Back page, front cover and pages with coloured borders show a piece of “stupendous
stitching” by Sarah Bradberry, from the Craftsy class of the same name. All decorative
machine stitching, couching and quilting was done on a Singer 401G.