Fishing and The Processing of Seafood in Parion
Fishing and The Processing of Seafood in Parion
Fishing and The Processing of Seafood in Parion
Abstract
Parion, a colony founded in 709 BC, is located on the Anatolian bank of the Propontis.
It was a significant littoral city and accommodated two harbours. The ancient city’s
location and riches are now the heritage of the modern day Kemer Village of Biga Mu-
nicipality, Çanakkale Province, which is a fishing village. The city was a polis until the
period of Roman rule, and many ancient writers mentioned different aspects of the polis.
One of these aspects is the seafood procured and processed in Parion. At Parion, a range
of seafood (from fish and salted fish to crabs and oysters) is attested through ancient
writers, archaeological evidence and epigraphic sources.
The intention of this paper will be to approach ancient fishing by examining the ar-
chaeological material related to the procuring, processing, and production of the afore-
mentioned marine species. It will evaluate the marine species and fishing techniques
described in modern Turkish, Greek, and Latin in order to identify the modern def-
inition of these species. It also will aim to establish ancient production techniques. Evi
dence related to this topic is drawn from ancient writings, archaeological evidences and
epigraphic evidences. Consequently, this paper aims to establish the place, techniques,
and diversity of fishing in Parion, contributing to the disciplines of archaeology, econ-
omy, sociology and biology.
Parion
Parion is an ancient Greek colony founded in 709 BC,1 and is known to have had two
harbours.2 The city was founded on the southern shore of the Propontis and is in close
proximity to the point where the Hellespont joins the Propontis (fig. 1). Parion can be
described as a Hellespont settlement as well as being a Troad settlement. Parion, located
in Kemer Village of Çanakkale, Biga in Turkey, is still a fishing settlement today.
Fish and other marine species known in Parion are attested by different evidence, such
as: ethno-archaeology (done in the modern village of Kemer), epigraphic sources, in-
scriptions and depictions, archaeological material, as well as comparisons with neigh-
bouring ancient cities.
Parion is located on the waterway heading to the Black Sea. This important trade
route is also the route taken by migrating fish, which travel from the Mediterranean or
Published in: Martin Bentz – Michael Heinzelmann (Eds.), Sessions 2 – 3, Single Contributions. Archaeology and Economy in the
Ancient World 53 (Heidelberg, Propylaeum 2022) 535–552. DOI: https://doi.org/10.11588/propylaeum.999.c13384
536 Vedat Keleş – Michael D. Yilmaz
Fig. 1: Aerial photo showing the harbours of Parion and Kemer Village.
Aegean to the Black Sea and vice versa through the Hellespont-Propontis.3 Therefore,
the works regarding the ancient fishing of Byzantion is an important asset for under-
standing ancient fishing in Parion.
Among the species4 listed (Table 1), the Tuna, Dolphin, Kolias, Crab and “Linusian
Snail” are the most interesting species. These species and some others of significance
will be mentioned briefly.
Tuna: This is known from a depiction on a published5 inscription. The tuna (thynnaion;
θυνναιον) is sacrificed to Poseion in gratitude for a good harvest.6 The sacrifice is de-
picted as being made to Priapos instead of Poseidon7 since Priapos was the patron god
of fishermen.
Dolphin: This is another species which was depicted along with the tuna and Priapos
on the same inscription.8 From this, one could conclude that it was one of the species
hunted by the fishing guild.
Kolias: Pliny9 names the colias as “the fish of Parion” since it was caught in great
numbers in Parion.
Crab: Arkhestatus10 states that the crabs of Parion are famous, and calls them “the bears
of the sea”. This can be interpreted in two ways: the term “bear” may refer to the the
anatomical features (i.e. long arms), in which case the species was likely a lobster, or it
Fishing and the Processing of Seafood in Parion 537
is simply a large crab. Arkhestratus mentions the crab called astakos (ἁστακος) (lobster)
to be located widely in the Hellespont, but does not mention the crab called karabos
(καραβος).11 According to Athenaeus, the karabos is found in rocky areas and the as-
takos in sandy areas. Although Parion has both, locals mention a giant crab called pavu
rya. Another detail is that coins of neighbouring Priapos depict lobsters.12
Scallop, Cockle and Oyster: The midden discovered in the Roman bath13 had a great
quantity of scallop, cockle, and oyster, which reveals that these species were produced
and consumed in Parion (fig. 2). Finds of cattle bones with butchering marks hint that
the midden belonged to a nearby butchering shop.
Murex: Many unbroken murex shells were found in the Slope Bath, specifically in a
water channel which flowed in to a small reservoir,14 hinting at cultivation. The shells
could be identified as Bolinus (Murex) brandaris, which were the main ingredient for
producing purple dye.15
Linusian Snail: Strabo mentions that the delicious “Linusian Snails” were caught in
Linon, a dependency of Parion.16 The word describing the creature is linousioi kokhliai
(Λινούσιοι κοχλίαι), which can be translated as “Linusian screw”, and identify the
Ancient Greek Latin Turkish English Binomial Ancient Epigrafic Archae- Ethnoarchae-
Author ologic ology
Table 1: Seafood Species of Parion: Evidences for Seafood Species in Parion (Legend: +: Direct evidence, –: Evidence
through other cities in the region, *: No longer hunted).
Ἁντακαιος/ Attilus Mersin Sturgeon Acipenser –
Ἁκκιπἡσιος gueldenstaedti
Table 1 (continued)
539
540 Vedat Keleş – Michael D. Yilmaz
species as a snail. Linon is located at the modern fishing village of Aksaz, or at Şahmelek
Beach.17 This is supported by the fact that the word linon can mean either linen (flax) or
fishing line,18 which hints that the settlement is related to fishing. Therefore, the species
can be defined as a sea snail. Local fishermen mention two species of sea snails, one of
which is reputedly delicious: the Giant Tun (Tonna galea).
Cultivated Species
Farming fish in lagoons was begun by the Greeks, then the Romans continued produc-
ing fish by placing eggs, fingerlings, and adult fish in brackish small lakes or ponds.19
The Romans widely produced oysters, mussels, scallops and other shellfish through
artificial cultivation and they were vastly consumed.20
With Hooks
Long-Line Fishing: Long-line fishing is mentioned by ancient sources as a way to
catch multiple fish simultaneously. The long-line is composed of branch lines fitted
with multiple fish hooks (up to a hundred) that are attached to a main line, which
allows the fisherman to cast thousands of hooks at once. Although the labour of baiting
these hooks limited the operation, the standardisation of Roman fish hooks made it
easier.23
Fish hooks from the midden at the Roman bath (dating to the 4th – 6th century AD)
preserve evidence of this method. The hooks were found grouped together (fig. 2, 3),24
and were most likely discarded from the long-line system together with the fish to gain
rebaiting time. They were later deposited in the midden along with the other waste
material.
Regular Fishing Line (Sea & River): Catching fish with a regular fishing line in a
city which had a fishing industry would not need any evidence, although singular fish
hooks are present.25 Polyaenus offers evidence regarding catching fish from the river,
which flows to the sea by Parion.26 He mentions fishermen cooking fish, drinking wine
and making offerings to Poseidon, which the envoys of Parion joined while walking to
Hermaeum. Hermaeum is mentioned as in the vicinity of the Çınardere or Otlukdere
Fishing and the Processing of Seafood in Parion 541
Villages of Biga.27 Considering the statement, the fishermen must have been positioned
by the Kemer River, which would reveal fishing from the river.
Seine: These nets are used either from the shore or from a boat or two, and are known
as σαγήνη in Greek and sagena in Latin. This large net consists of two large cords, one
of which had floats and the other weights, with the net or mesh held between them
vertically. The net was laid in an arc that later was closed to a circle and contracted.30 In
Duty Individual(s)
Parion the use of seine is known by the inscription which mentions five vessels and the
duty of a float layer (Table 2).31
Casting Net: Known in Greek as amfiblestron (ἀμφιβληστρον), these nets can be em-
ployed from the shore in shallow waters.32 According to the evidence presented by
written sources these nets were not deployed from vessels. Although there is no evi
dence of this technique being used in Parion, the fishermen of modern Kemer Village
use this basic technique. Therefore, it is likely that it also was used in Antiquity.
Stationary Net: These nets are called peza (πέζα) in Greek.33 This is a very basic tec-
nique and would have been used along with other techniques.
Hooks
A total of 16 fish hooks have been identified in Parion (fig. 3). Amongst these examples
one comes from the southern necropolis,36 fourteen were found in the Roman bath,
agora and the theatre,37 and one final example is from a mixed fill from the agora.
Eleven of the fish hooks were found within the midden located in the Roman bath. The
midden consisted of mollusca shells and cattle bones with butchering marks dating to
the 4th – 6th century AD. At this time the Roman bath was no longer in use,38 suggesting
that there were butcher shop(s) nearby.
Netting Tools
Netting tools are known to be very similar to some medical tools.39 However, the pres-
ence of these finds aboard shipwrecks of fishing vessels, one can conclude that these
are netting tools.40
At Parion, finds of netting tools are represented with three examples (fig. 3); two
come from the Odeion and one from the theatre.41
Net Weights
The net weights found in Parion comprise 2 lead weights (fig. 3): one comes from the
Roman bath and the other from the theatre.42
Fishing and the Processing of Seafood in Parion 543
Fig. 3: Bronze fishing hooks (A. 1st – 2nd century AD; B. 4th – 6th century AD; C. 4th century
BC – 3rd century AD); Bronze netting tools (D. 3rd – 5th century AD; E. 3rd – 5th century AD;
F. 2nd – 3rd century AD); Lead net weights (G. 4th – 6th century AD; H. 2nd – 3rd century AD).
Products of Fish
Fresh, dried, and salted fish are not the only products of fishing industries. Along with
the fish itself, the bones, oil, and internal organs were used as byproducts.43
Food
Althought Greeks and Romans consumed fish fresh when possible, they also often dried,
smoked, or salted (salsamentum) fish.44
Fresh Fish: Fresh fish is the direct product of fishing, which would be consumed locally
in a short period of time and would not be an exported commodity.
Dried Fish: Most meat was preserved with salt or used in the production of other food
items, which lasted longer than their fresh ingredients.45 Fish could be stored for ex-
tended periods of time by being dried or salted. Fish was dried in the sun with the aid
of salt.
544 Vedat Keleş – Michael D. Yilmaz
Salted Fish: Salted fish, salsamentum or tarikhos (ταριχος) is another way in which fish
could be stored for extended periods of time. It would naturally be an exported com-
modity similiar to the dried fish. Salted fish was produced by placing layers of fish meat
and salt in containers, which were pressed down with weights and the dry fish was
preserved.46
Ancient sources mention that all salted fish from the Hellespont and the Pontus were
delicious.47 It is stated that salsamentum was produced from small scombridae and tuna,
which were in high demand beginning from the 5th century BC and increased drastically
in the 1st century BC.48
Garum Sauce: Another fish product are the sauces produced from the fish: the main
commodity is known as garum/garos (γάρος) or liquamen. The garum sauce became a
delicacy for the Roman kitchen during the Republican period. It also is known to have
been used instead of salt, as a sauce, as well as for occasional medical practices.49
There are a wide variety of recipies for the production of garum, though the most
basic way to prepare garum is to let the meat, eggs, internal organs and blood of fish
ferment with salt inside a container for several months. The top layer of liquid resulting
from this process would be the garum.50
Although a wide range of fish were used for garum production the finest and most
expensive (garum sociorum and gari scombri) is mentioned to come from small scom-
bridae.51 Given that Scomber scomber and Scomber colias are known to Kemer Village
today, together with the ancient fishing hooks found in Parion, these garum commod-
ities were likely produced in Parion and exported elsewhere.
Muria: Muria or halme is the basic and low-quality variety of garum and would have
been used to preserve wine, meat, vegetables and cheese. Produced from fish fermented
with salt and water, it should rather be called “fish juice” rather than a sauce.52
Allec: Allec is the bottom layer from the garum production of undissolved fish matter.
This was consumed mostly by the poor and slaves.53
Gaming Pieces
Examples in Parion show that the vertebrae of fish were slightly worked to become
gaming pieces for board games (fig. 4).54
Fishing and the Processing of Seafood in Parion 545
Fig. 4: Gaming pieces made from fish vertebrae from the Slope Bath of Parion (3rd – 4th cen-
tury AD).
Ornaments
Grave M210, dated to the late 5th century BC, contained a scallop shell with a hole made
through each valve. The object is identified as a pyxis through similar examples. (fig. 5)55
Architecture
Lime Production: During excavations in the Roman bath and Sdj 8, mollusca shells
were recorded in very close proximity to or adjacent to several lime pits.56 Especially
the lime pit in Sdj 8 had mollusca shells embedded into the pit itself. This illustrates that
lime production was fuelled by mollusca shells as well as limestone and marble.
Rubble Filling: Excavations conducted in the aqueduct bridge and Sdj 10 have revealed
mortar (opus caementicium) fragments adhering to mollusca shells. This indicates that
the shells were used as rubble filling.
Shipyard: Oil procured from fish is mentioned as used for the maintenance of vessels.57
Fishing vessels therefore gathered the material for their own needs.
546 Vedat Keleş – Michael D. Yilmaz
Archaeological and epigraphic evidence exists regarding individuals from Parion in-
volved in fishing.
Graves
M106: The grave goods of the grave M106 (fig. 6) dated to the 1st – 2nd century AD. Among
these, a few scallop and other mollusca shells were left as grave goods.58
M172: A fishing hook was deposited in the grave M172 (fig. 6), which dated to the 1st –
2nd century AD.59
M182: The individual in the giftless and therefore undated grave M182 (fig. 6) has a
particular deformation on its incisor teeth. The deformation of the individual is similar
to that of net menders and makers in the modern Kemer Village.60
M210: Grave M210 (fig. 6), dated to the late 5th century BC, does have a burial gift pyxis
fashioned from a scallop shell, with a hole made through each valve.61
Fishing and the Processing of Seafood in Parion 547
Fishing Guilds
Watchtowers known as skopeia (σκοπιά) and thynnoskopeia for tuna were used for
coastal fishing. The thynnoskopeia would be used along with determined hunting
grounds for traps or nets, which were called epokhai. Ancient sources and legal in-
scriptions mention that these lookout positions along with fishing shoals were leased
to private operations.62
One of the hills in Parion that overlooks the Propontis is called Semer Tepe (Saddle
Hill) and is used as a modern skopeia.
Two inscriptions from Parion, dating to the 1st – 2nd century AD, give the names of the
shoals or their localities.
Neilaion Fishing Guild: The inscription regarding the fishing guild operating in the
Neilaion area is one of the most remarkable fishing guild inscriptions. It lists the names
of the individuals together with their duties (Table 2), and has a depiction of Priapos and
an altar with a tuna fish as a sacrifice, and a dolphin.63
Phrou-Fishing Guild: Given the nature of the inscription, all that can be said regard-
ing the second fishing guild of Parion is that it was operating in the shoals of Phrou-.64
548 Vedat Keleş – Michael D. Yilmaz
Conclusion
Notes
1 Eus.Hist. 183.
2 X. HG, 1.1.13 – 16.
3 Tekin 2009, 22; Bursa 2010, 7 – 9.
4 For evidence of species from neighbouring cities see: Bursa 2007, 82 – 97. 265 – 267; Tekin 2009, 20 – 45.
5 Robert – Robert 1950, 80 – 94 pl. 5; Frisch 1983, 10 – 14 no. 5; Lytle 2006, 68 f. fn. 75. 76 fig. 19.
6 Bursa 2007, 27; Tekin 2009, 42; Ath. 297e, 301f, 303b.
7 Robert – Robert 1950, 80 – 94 pl. 5
8 Robert – Robert 1950, 80 – 94 pl. 5; Frisch 1983, 10 – 14 no. 5; Lytle 2006, 68 f. fn. 75. 76 fig. 19.
9 Robert – Robert 1950, 92; Ath. 116b – c; Plin. 32.53.
10 Ath. 92d.
11 Ath. 104f.
12 Wroth 1892, 176 no. 1 – 5 pl. XXXV.4 – 6.
13 Yılmaz 2015, 66, Pic. 45; Yılmaz 2018, 215.
14 Keleş et al. 2018, 191, Resim 11.
15 Lytle 2007, 249.
Fishing and the Processing of Seafood in Parion 549
16 Str. 13.1.15.
17 Körpe 2008, 388.
18 Bekker-Nielsen 2002, 218; Opp. 3.73 – 75.
19 Kron 2008, 206, 211; V. Max. 9.1.1.
20 Kron 2008, 212 f.
21 Kron 2008, 205 f.
22 Bekker-Nielsen 2010, tab. 1.
23 Kron 2008, 205; Bekker-Nielsen 2010, 191; Ael. NA, 15.10; Arist. HA, 621a15; Opp. 3.75,3.78,468 – 4 81.
24 These fish hooks are said to be suitable for the catching of mackerel or pelamyd by the fishermen of
Kemer. Yılmaz 2015, 64, Pic. 42.
25 Başaran et al. 2014, 399; Çelikbaş 2016, 187 – 189. 404 f. Cat. no. K50, Pl. XLIII, Ill. 28.
26 Polyaen. 6.24.
27 Leaf 1923, 100; Frisch 1978, 105 fn. 5; Hammond 1980, fn. 23; Talbert 2000, 789 (Hermaion), Map 52.
28 Kron 2008, 205.
29 Bursa 2007, 22; Bekker-Nielsen 2002, 218; Opp. 3.73 – 75.
30 Bursa 2007, 21; Bekker-Nielsen 2002, 217 – 2 22; Kron 2008, tab. 8.5; Bekker-Nielsen 2010, 191 f.; Ael. NA,
15.5; Opp. 3.79 – 84,124, 4.68,490 – 503.
31 Frisch 1983, 11. 13 no. 5; Lytle 2006, 69 f. fn. 77,78; Bekker-Nielsen 2010, 194.
32 Bursa 2007, 20; Kron 2008, table. 8.5; Bekker-Nielsen 2002, 216; Bekker-Nielsen 2010, 191; Hes. Sc. 213 –
215; Hdt. I.141.2; Opp. 3.80.
33 Bursa 2007, 22; Bekker-Nielsen 2002, 218; Bekker-Nielsen 2010, 192 f.
34 Bursa 2007, 22; Bekker-Nielsen 2002, 218; Opp. 3.85 – 86.
35 Bursa 2007, 22; Bekker-Nielsen 2002, 218.
36 Çelikbaş 2016, 187 – 189. 404 f. Cat. no. K50, Pl. XLIII, Ill. 28.
37 Yılmaz 2015, 64, Pic. 42; Çelikbaş 2016, 187 – 189. 405 f. Cat. no. K51 – 52, Pl. XLIII, Ill. 28.
38 Yılmaz 2015, 65; Yılmaz 2018, 215.
39 Çelikbaş 2016, 135, fn. 859.
40 Galili et al. 2013, 154 fig. 14.
41 Çelikbaş 2016, 135. 326 f. Cat. no. E23 – 25, Pl. XLI, Ill. 16; Çelikbaş 2018, 191. 215 Cat. no. 50 fig. 6.
42 Çelikbaş 2016, 226. 471 Cat. no. U1 – 2, Pl. LVI, Ill. 41.
43 García Vargaz – Florido del Corral 2010, 226.
44 Curtis 2008, 385.
45 Curtis 2008, 385.
46 Curtis 2001, 317. 397. 403. 407. 413. 416; Bursa 2007, 36 f.; Curtis 2008, 385 f.
47 García Vargaz – Florido del Corral 2010, 220; Ath. 27e.
48 García Vargaz – Florido del Corral 2010, 219 f.; Plb. 4.38.4 – 5.
49 Curtis 2001, 317. 403 – 4 05. 414. 416; Bursa 2007, 36. 39 – 4 1; Lenger 2008, 69 fn. 1,2,3; García Vargaz –
Florido del Corral 2010, 220.
50 Curtis 2001, 414; Bursa 2007, 39 – 42; Curtis 2008, 385 f.; Lenger 2008, 69. 70, fn. 5,7; Plin. 31.43.
51 Purcell 1995, 144; Curtis 2001, 415 – 4 46; Bursa 2007, 39; Lenger 2008, 70. 73 fn 8,37; Tekin 2009, 57; Hor.
S. 2.8.46.; Mart. 13.102; Plin. 9.66,31.43; Sen. E. 95.25.
550 Vedat Keleş – Michael D. Yilmaz
52 Curtis 2001, 317. 403 f. 413 f.; Bursa 2007, 42; Lenger 2008, 73 fn.38; García Vargaz – Florido del Corral
2010, 220.
53 Curtis 2001, 403. 414; Bursa 2007, 42; Lenger 2008, 73 f. fn.39,40,42; García Vargaz – Florido del Corral
2010, 220; Plin. 31.44.
54 Özkan 2018, 34 f. 77 f. Cat. no. 28. 29.
55 Karali 1999, 21 Fig.13B
56 Keleş et al. 2017, 35.
57 García Vargaz – Florido del Corral 2010, 225.
58 Başaran 2010, 394.
59 Başaran et al. 2014, 399; Çelikbaş 2016, 187 – 189. 404 f. Cat. no. K50, Pl. XLIII, Ill. 28.
60 Forthcoming anthropological (and ethno-archaeological) report.
61 Keleş et al. 2019, 596, Resim 2. For similar example see Karali 1999, 21 Fig. 13B.
62 Bursa 2007, 25; Tekin 2009, 49 f.; Bekker-Nielsen 2010, 189; García Vargaz – Florido del Corral 2010,
213 – 2 15; Ael. NA, 15.5; Arist. Oec. 2.1346b; Pl. Lg. 7.824a.
63 Robert – Robert 1950, 80 – 97 pl. 5; Frisch 1983, 10 – 14 no. 5; Purcell 1995, 146 f. fig. 10.1; Lytle 2006, 68 –
70 fn. 75 – 7 8 fig. 19; Bekker-Nielsen 2010, 194; Bursa 2010, 36 f.
64 Robert – Robert 1950, 89 – 96; Frisch 1983, 14 f. no. 6; Bursa 2010, 37.
Image Credits
All images by the Parion archive. – Table 1: by the authors. – Table 2: by the authors after Robert –
Robert 1950; Frisch 1983; Purcell 1995; Lytle 2006.
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