53 Railway Modelling Tips
53 Railway Modelling Tips
2nd October 2018
www.ScaleModelScenery.co.uk
Table of Contents
Table of Contents 1
Introduction 7
Track Magic 9
WHAT IS TRACK MAGIC 9
RUNNING IN 13
WHY SHOULD I RUN LOCOMOTIVES IN? 13
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BACKSCENES 19
WHY SHOULD I USE A BACKSCENE? 20
Polystyrene 29
WHY SHOULD I USE POLYSTYRENE? 30
Bodyshells 30
WHY SHOULD I USE DIFFERENT BODYSHELLS? 31
Rockfaces 32
WHY SHOULD I MAKE MY OWN ROCKFACES? 33
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Mirrors 35
WHY SHOULD I MODEL MIRRORS? 36
Dusting 37
DUSTING? 38
Spillages 39
HOW CAN I AVOID SPILLAGES? 40
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Blades 55
WHY SHOULD I USE NEW BLADES? 56
Water 56
HOW CAN I MODEL WATER? 57
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Introduction
Thank you downloading our free Railway Modelling Tips eBook. We hope you enjoy reading it as
much as we enjoyed compiling it, and of course, we hope you find it useful. Please feel free to
pass it on to your modelling friends, fellow club members or anyone you think may benefit from it.
The hints and tips in this eBook are taken from the Tip Of The Day series that’s been running for
the past few months on our Railway Modellers Club website, and who knows, in another month or
so, we may be able to publish volume two!
Pop the kettle on and make a cuppa, then sit back, relax & have a read…
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One for DCC (Digital Command Control) layouts. With DCC systems & traditional Analogue systems
never try to directly mix them!! Always keep them both separate from each other.
However, you can have both on the same layout so long as each system is kept electrically isolated
from the other. On my own layout, I have one track that can be operated from both systems but each
system is kept isolated from each other via a DPDT switch that only allows one system to power the
double-throw (DPDT) switch. Basically, a DPDT switch is two SPDT switches in one, which can
control two separate circuits but is always switched together by a single actuator.
So in simple terms allows power from one system to be on & powering the track, but keeps other
systems power feed to the track turned off. Switching the switch over to the other system power to
the track automatically cuts the power to the track from the other system. Thus only one power
system at a time can only ever be used, using a DPDT switch to switch between the two.
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2. Track Magic
Trackwork if not regularly cleaned can soon get dirty which can lead to poor & unreliable running of
your trains. Regular track cleaning will keep your trains running smoothly. Track Magic by Deluxe
running on your layout. It's an electrical cleaner liquid that comes complete with dispensing
container, micro flexi brush & sponge pad. It removes dirt from electrical contacts, point blades, loco
wheels, trackwork etc. Track Magic works by dissolving and mobilizing microscopic oily
contaminants to leave a clean conducting surface for smooth, reliable and steady running.
We've used Track Magic for a good number of years now with great success & results. An essential
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3. SCRAP LOADS
Adding loads to your wagons adds interest & purpose to running your trains, after all the real
railways were built to carry goods. Adding scrap steel processing plant or part of a steel works gives
operating interest to your layout with loading / unloading operations for your scrap steel trains. For
scrap steel carrying wagons look out for the likes of Bachmann’s Scrap steel SSA wagons.
crumpled into pieces as well as making them into crumpled squared cubes to represent steel bales.
Weather them using the likes of Deluxe Materials Instant rust or similar followed by weathering with
weathering powders or coloured pastels. To fill a wagon you only need to do is the top layer of steel
scrap bales. Use a piece of foam or card to fill in the rest of a wagon, thus giving an impression that
the wagon is fully loaded.Scrap loads. To replicate a steel scrap load use aluminium kitchen roll cut
up into random sizes. Scrunched up into crumpled pieces as well as making them into crumpled
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squared cubes. To weather them use the like of Deluxe Materials Instant rust or weathering
powders.
Wiring for layouts comes in all sorts of sizes & colours so it makes sense to adopt a colour code
system for when you start on the wiring up of your layout. Keep a diagram of the wiring & include a
& wiring up track & accessories. A good way is to use red & black wires for the track power feeds.
So if you’re running for example two parallel tracks, wire one track up with red & black wires & the
Speaking from experience I once helped a fellow modeller with a wiring issue on his layout, he’d
used the same colour wire for all his layout wiring!! Much time was wasted working out which wire
was which. This could of been avoided if he’d used a colour coding system.
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For point motors use orange, green, white wires. There is no fast & hard rule as to which colours you
should use, choose your own colour system & stick to it! It’ll help in the long run with any wiring fault
5. INTERIOR LIGHTING
It’s well worth adding lighting to your layout, which can bring a night running session alive as well as
giving a different look & feel to your layout. As we head into the long dark nights of winter, what
room details that may be missed when not lit up. L.E.D. lighting is now very affordable with low
prices & a wide range of colours to choose from. Not only that, L.E.D’s come in warm & cool style
lighting. L.E.D’s can be bought in strips as well as single items. Cheap to run & don’t (or hardly) get
warm in use, are ideal for your layout & dioramas as well as vehicle & train models.
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Other lighting option as well is grain of wheat bulbs, again available in various colours & sizes.
Bring your layout alive & enhance any night time running session with interior lighting.
6. RUNNING IN
It goes without saying look after your model & it’ll give years of good service. With any new loco it
should be run in prior to going into service on your layout, as per the manufacturer instructions.
loco for at least an hour with the loco running light engine (Not hauling anything). This can be carried
out on your layout or on a rolling road. Start off by running at slow speeds & gradually building up to
medium speeds during the running in session. Run the loco 5 minutes at a time, first in one direction
& then five minutes in the opposite direction, & so on during the running in session.
This will give all the gears, bearings & moving parts etc, time to nicely bed in & result in a much
smoother running loco. If a loco that has just been serviced, it’s worth giving it a running in session
as it’ll give you chance to check for any issues after servicing.
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Try using a rolling road or fit an auto shuttle unit such as one by Gaugemaster. This will
automatically stop the loco, change the direction & set off again. On DCC some decoders / DCC
control systems have a built-in shuttle mode which allows for automatic running.
7. BALLAST COLOURS
A lot of people just use grey ballast on their layouts. But grey isn’t always the case!! A look at the
region or area you’re modelling will have a bearing on which colour ballast to use. Take a look at the
real railway to see what colour/size variations there is. Ballast colours depending on region, whether
it’s new or old ballast, how it’s weathered, what & how much traffic the line carries etc. Take
reference photos of the real thing to give you ideas as well as to a pictorial guide to work to.
Model Ballast comes in many sizes, grades & colours. Don’t be afraid to have a go at mixing various
ballast sizes & colours. In the photo, can be seen a mixture of ballast colours etc. Note how the
weathering & usage has also affected the look of the trackwork.
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If modelling OO scale, try using N scale ballast as a number of OO scale ballast offerings are over
scale. Check out the likes of DCC Concepts realistic range of ballast which gives a realistic looking
ballast.
shed, loft or garage. It also helps prevent baseboards from warping, moisture etc. Any emulsion
paint, varnish etc used for household decorating will do. Paint the baseboards prior to laying any
track or scenery.
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Apart from the likes of football, cricket, lawns & bowling greens, grass grows in various heights
depending on location. The season & time of year also has a bearing on the colour of grass.
scatters. Use & blending various different colours & heights of grasses, scatters, turf scatters, will
give a much more natural pleasing look & finish to your layout. Look at the real thing when you’re out
& about on your travels. Remember to take photos & use them as a reference guide to work to.
Look out for winter, summer, spring & autumn blends of static grasses. Use a static grass applicator
tool or puffer bottle to apply the static grass for best affect.
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Building a layout can use a large amount of glue. The glue of choice for many modellers is P.V.A.
is PVA glue. Buying the small tubes of PVA glue can rapidly work out very expensive. Save money
by buying the big bulk packs of PVA glue. Builders merchants, & the likes of places such as Screwfix
etc sell bulk buy packs. Don’t worry about the glue going off, as it usually has a long shelf life.
Always Keeping plenty of PVA glue in stock at home will lessen the chances of running out in the
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Rolling stock that frequently keep derailing is a sign that it could be the wheel back to back
alignment is out of gauge. This can be checked & corrected using a wheel gauge tool. Commonly
models, they come supplied with wheelsets that haven’t been properly been set to gauge correctly.
On other locos & rolling stock, the wheelsets can end up drifting out of gauge over time. One way to
check if your wheelset back to back measurements are set up correctly is to use a back to back
Using the back to back gauging tool will soon identify if the wheelset is correctly set up, or needs
adjusting.
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Use Corksheet for your trackbed.
wheel noise of passing trains & also help give a more realistic looking raised ballast shoulder. A
Cork sheet is available in sheet rolls, pre-cut to track width. Glue using PVA glue to your baseboard,
& place some heavy books on top of the cork sheet to keep it in place whilst the glue sets.
Other trackbed systems like those produced by such companies as Woodlandscenics, who produce
pre-chamfered trackbed. Other track bed systems such as Hornby, Gaugemaster etc do foam ballast
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13. BACKSCENES
Set the scene on your layout by using a backscene which adds depth to your layout scenics.
industrial to countrysides. Photographic backscenes very popular amongst modellers these come
supplied as rolled up sections in a tube. Unroll the back scene out on to a smooth flat surface, &
place some heavy books to flatten out the backscene for a couple of days before use.
Mount the backscenes on to a board taking care to join up the backscene sheets up. Use a suitable
glue such as Deluxe Materials View glue. It may well be worth sealing the backscene board prior to
fitting the backscene sheets. Another way of adding a backscene is to paint your own, or if you’re not
confident with painting a backscene it’s worth contacting a local artist to paint one for you.
Backscenes are also useful for hiding non-scenic sections such as fiddle yards, as well as acting as
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Buy the right timber / sheet materials for your baseboard & benchwork. Make sure
WHY SHOULD I CHOOSE THE RIGHT TIMBER?
When selecting timber for your layout framework & baseboards whilst your at DIY shops / timber
merchants, be careful with the timber / sheet material you select. Go for sheet material that is stored
flat rather than being stored standing up or on its side. Stored standing up or on its side, can lead to
material warping out of true. With packs of timber at the DIY stores take your time in selecting, don’t
take the first pack of timber on the shelf. Go for the straightest timber battens that you find in
stock.Taking care at this stage will give the best materials to work with, whilst building your
baseboards.
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A layout needs a good firm set of supports. A well supported layout is easier to work on & give
WHY SHOULD I USE BASEBOARD SUPPORTS?
When building a layout there are various options for supporting a baseboard. On legs, trestles, wall
mounted or suspended from the ceiling. Another option is for the baseboard to sit on the top of units
which give handy storage under the layout. For the legs, you can opt for bespoke made to measure
legs or tressels. Companies such as the Little Layout Company, for example, make trestles stands
which are ideal if you have a portable layout. The trestles can be adjusted for height which is great
for locations where the floor may not be level. For permanent layouts use bespoke made to measure
baseboard legs. It’s also worth using good quality timber for the baseboard legs.
For wall mounted layouts look at using angled wall mounting brackets either the L shaped type or
angle with wall slot type racking. This allows for easy height adjustment.
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Cutting timber can be a time consuming job, save time by getting it cut for you.
WHY SHOULD I GET TIMBER PRE-CUT?
When purchasing your timber & baseboard sheet material, it’s worth getting it cut for you. Many DIY
shops & timber merchants offer a cutting service which is well worth taking advantage of. Yes there
may be well be a cutting charge for the service, this could add a couple of £’s more on to the total
cost of the materials. But this is money well spent in the time it saves, allowing you to get on with the
job of building a layout baseboard & frame work quicker. It’s worth taking a cutting list with you.
Some of the smaller or independent DIY/timber merchants are worth using as can work out cheaper
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Always keep the Handbook to your DCC (Digital Command Control) controller handy.
WHY SHOULD I KEEP MY DCC HANDBOOK HANDY?
When starting out in the world of DCC control on your model railway, keep your handbook by your
DCC controller (sometimes known as a command station). How many of us are guilty of not reading
Each DCC system controller varies in operation so keep the handbook alongside when operating, it
makes for quick reference when needed. Take your time to read through & familiarise with what
each function & operation does. Abonus of this is that you may find a new feature or control function
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Use download & print off track plan templates to help plan your track layout design.
WHY SHOULD I USE TRACK TEMPLATES?
When working out track plans on paper to the full size, use lining wallpaper to draw out your
full-scale track plan on. Peco does download & print off track templates to the same size as the
https://www.peco-uk.com/page.asp?id=pointplans
On the link above choose what scale of track you are using, then select which size track, i.e: Code
100, Code 75 etc. Then choose the pointwork / Switchwork for your track plan. Next download the
point/switch template, set your printer to 100% or actual size to print off to the template to the same
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Using these paper track templates allow you to try various track layouts before actually buying any
pointwork. Thus saving time & money over buying point work that may not be suitable for your track
plan.
Use Track pins to hold your model railway track securely in place.
WHY SHOULD I USE TRACK PINS?
One method of securing the track to the baseboard is to use track pins. On Hornby & Peco Set
Track, the track comes with pin holes in the sleepers from the factory. On Flexi track & other
trackwork, you’ll need to make a hole in the sleepers for the track pin. Don’t be tempted to hammer
the track pin through the sleeper without first making a hole for the track pin. Hammering the track
pin without drilling a hole first can lead to the sleeper being damaged, splitting the sleeper apart or
worse damaging the rails!! Use a small handheld pin vice to make a hole in the sleeper. Use a 1mm
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drill bit. To insert the track pins either use a pin pusher or a pair of pliers to push the track pin in
place, or if using a hammer, use a pair of pliers to hold the pin whilst hammering it in.
It’s recommended to use the thicker track pins such as those by Peco Part no:ST280, as these are
more robust than the thinner track pins & won’t bend as easy.
If using DCC keep a locomotive record card to log the loco decoder CV settings,
modellers, it’s worth keeping a record of your locomotives fitted with DCC decoder chips. It can be
easy to forget what decoder you’ve fitted, or the loco address number. So it’s worth keeping some
form of a record card to keep track of things. An example of a ‘Loco Record Card’ can be seen
● Locomotive type – Class & livery of the loco, for example, class 55 BR blue
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● Type of decoder fitted in the loco – for example, Gaugemaster DCC27 Omni
deceleration
● Notes section – for recording additional details such as when the loco had the decoder fitted,
Use a DCC Locomotive Cheat Sheet to keep track of your loco DCC addresses.
WHY SHOULD DCC LOCO CHEAT SHEET?
If you have a reasonable number of locomotives in your model fleet it can be easy to forget which
DCC address you’ve given to your locos. It’s worth keeping a quick reference list of your loco DCC
addresses by your DCC Command station (DCC train controller). I keep my locomotives DCC
addresses on printed sheets on the wall for ease of viewing. As a backup, it’s worth writing the
locomotive DCC address number either in the model box or on the supplied service info sheet that
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comes with the model. Keeping the DCC loco cheat sheet by the DCC controller is very handy. It’s
amazing how many modellers don’t record down their loco address numbers, & end up forgetting a
All locomotives that are DCC fitted need an address number allocating to them, a bit like each car
Once you’ve converted your loco to DCC (by fitting a decoder chip inside it), what loco address
number should you use? An easy way is to use part of the loco running number. On basic DCC
starter controllers like the Hornby Select for example, it can store up to around 60 loco addresses
using a two-digit loco address. So you can use any number between 1 & 60 as the locomotive
address number. So, for example, you have a loco which is numbered 47 022. Use the last two
numbers as the loco DCC address, thus we’d give that loco the address number 22.
For more advanced DCC controllers such as The Hornby Elite, Gaugemaster Prodigy, Digitax Evo,
Signatrak, Ecos etc allow you to allocate loco address numbers between 1 up to 9999 & some
beyond!! These allow you to use four figure loco address. So, for example, take loco 47 022 again.
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You could address the loco using four digits from it’s running number thus: 4702 or 7022 used as the
loco address.
Having allocated the loco it’s address, on some DCC control systems you can also name the loco.
You can use any name or full loco number for the loco. Depending on which DCC control system
your using. You can call up the loco using it’s full name/running number either via the list of locos
saved on the DCC controller, or via a saved favourite locos list.
23. Polystyrene
Polystyrene makes for a great lightweight base for forming the basic shape of your landscaping on
WHY SHOULD I USE POLYSTYRENE?
Use polystyrene for forming the landscape such as hills, embankments, cuttings etc. It’s worth
asking around shops & supermarkets etc if they have any waste polystyrene packaging they don’t
want, as often they’ll give it away for free. Also check out the local DIY shops & insulation suppliers
for sheets of polystyrene.
Use PVA glue to fix the polystyrene in place & once the glue has set use a hand saw to cut to the
shape you require. This can get messy when cutting using a handsaw. A cleaner cut can be made
using a hot wire cutter. A word of warning as regards glue, some glues like super glue can melt
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polystyrene. The likes of Woodland Scenics sell foam glue which is ideal for working with
polystyrene.
24. Bodyshells
On a tight budget may mean buying a new locomotive isn’t always easy. One way to expand variety
WHY SHOULD I USE DIFFERENT BODYSHELLS?
On a tight budget? Want a new loco but can’t afford to buy new? One way to increase the variety of
your fleet is to purchase spare loco body shells. A quick trawl of the likes of ebay, Facebook model
trading groups, swapmeets, model shows etc can often bring up loco body shells for sale. Buying a
body shell from a loco in a different livery that will fit your existing fleet, will allow you to expand the
variety of your fleet. You may drop lucky & find custom resprayed bodyshells too!
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On DCC operated layouts a separate programming track is needed for programming locomotives.
WHY SHOULD I USE A DCC PROGRAMMING TRACK?
Operating your layout using DCC control it’s recommended you have a separate dedicated
programming track to the main layout, for programming your locos. A section of track long enough to
hold a couple of locos or a DMU is all that is needed in most cases. Most DCC controllers have a
separate power outlet for connecting to a programming track, usually labelled up as Prog, or
Program. This provides power at a lower current to the programming track & thus won’t damage the
loco or accessory decoders. Another option for a programming track is to incorporate a built-in
programming track on the main layout. This needs to be set up with a switch that will change over
the main track power to the programming track outlet power. You’ll also need to fit isolating rail
joiners to isolate the programming, this will keep it separate from main track power supply during
programming.
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26. Rockfaces
As well as readily available rockfaces, it’s worth making your own rockfaces which can also save you
money whilst producing custom bespoke rocks to fit your layout scenery.
buying ready-made rockfaces & rockface pieces, cork bark, & casting own your own rockface.
Companies such as Woodland Scenics & Noch for example, produce rockface molds for use in
casting your own rockfaces. Another cheaper option is to use Kitchen/baking aluminum sheet rolls.
Simply cut off a piece, scrunch up the piece then open out into the desired shape rock face. Use
modelling plaster such as Woodland Scenics lightweight hydrocal plaster which gives a strong but
lightweight piece. Mix the plaster up & pour into the mold & leave to set. Once set remove from the
mold & fix into place with glue or plaster. For more variety, try breaking some of the pieces you mold
into smaller rock pieces. For creating cracks & fissures in the rock face use a carving tool, if you
don’t have a carving tool then a small flat bladed screwdriver will do. Use a wire brush or a plaster
carving brush. Again the likes of Woodland Scenics sell plaster carving tools & carving brushes.
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Plug in type connectors are easy to use & install on layout wiring. Ideal for removable baseboard
choc block connectors. This allows a baseboard to be removed or an electrical section to be isolated
These simple chocblock plug & pin connectors are very easy to install. Simply strip a small section of
the plastic wire sleeve off the wire. Either twist the exposed the wires to keep them together or add
Unscrew the screw on the connector & insert the wire into the connector. Re-tighten the screw to
hold the wire in place. To connect the connectors together, simply plug the connector with the pins
on into the other connector. These connectors are available from the likes of the electrical suppliers
such as RS, Rapid, model shops, DIY shops, & of course the online retailers.
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Plug in type connectors are easy to use & install on layout wiring. Ideal for removable baseboard
let down the appearance of the kit. One way to hide the exposed edges is to colour them in. Use a
coloured pencil, felt tip pen, or even paint. Gently rub a pencil, felt tip pen along the bare exposed
edge, this blends the edge in with the surrounding walls. With paint, use the dry brushing method to
Another method is to use texture sheets, & laser cut cornerstones which the likes of
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29. Mirrors
easy to make & install to a layout. Mirrors add extra detail to the interior of buildings & elsewhere
around your layout. Use tin foil such kitchen/baking foil cut to size & simply glued into place on walls
etc. Another method is to use self adhesive foil from the likes of B&Q, Toolstation, Screwfix etc.
Simple cut to shape, peel off the backing & stick into place.
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Changing the standard supplied speakers on DCC sound fitted locos can greatly improve sound.
size speakers to see what works & sounds best to you. What may work best for particular loco
sound may not sound as good on other loco sounds. DCC sound specialists like Legoman Biffo (Yes
that is his name), Digitrains, DCC Supplies amongst many others supply a range of different types &
sizes of speakers. Speakers like Bass Reflex, Earth Mover, Zimo Dumbo etc can vastly improve the
loco sound. It’s worth visiting a DCC sound specialist to for a demonstration of the different
speakers/sounds available.
Hornby has introduced a budget range of sound speakers called TTS (Twin Track Sound), you can
https://www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk/?s=TTS&post_type=product&v=79cba1185463
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31. Dusting
Every layout suffers from dust & household dust. Keep your layout hard surfaces & locomotives &
rolling stock clean with one such dusting product called Dust Dabber!
DUSTING?
Keeping locos & other hard surface areas on a layout/diorama clean of dust is an ongoing problem
for many modellers. One way to keep locos & hard surface areas clean is to use a product called
‘Dust Dabber’. This cleaning product by Woodland Scenics was primarily designed for modelled
water scenes. On layouts with modelled water using Deluxe Materials Aqua Magic, Woodland
Scenics own brand water products, etc, a build-up of dust can soon spoil the reflective look of the
water. Dust Dabber is basically a bright green sticky, putty type product. To use, unscrew the lid &
pull a small amount of Dust Dabber out the tub. Now as the name applies, simply dab on to any hard
surface to pick up any dust & small loose debris. Once done simply replace back into the tub &
kneed back into the dust dabber material inside. Dust Dabber will retain & hold the dust. Dust
Dabber also works great on locomotives & rolling stock, ideal for getting into the awkward corners on
your locomotives. Having used Dust Dabber myself for over a year now, found it safe to use on locos
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Don’t throw away waste modelling material. Ask yourself can i reuse elsewhere on the layout?
making the hills & landform on your layout. Save any plaster waste bits that has set hard that may be
left. Break the waster plaster up into small bits to form what's known as Talus. The Talus has many
uses on the layout such as: Mineral loads, Riverbed rocks & stones, Scree on hillsides &
embankments.
Paint or dye the Talus to suit the scene you’re modelling. Allow to dry & fix into place using PVA or
scenic glue. The photo above of a Scottish river scene gives one example that Talus could be used
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33. Spillages
Take care when modelling in how you store your glue & paint, more so when bottles etc are open.
HOW CAN I AVOID SPILLAGES?
I’m sure most of you (myself included) at some point have accidentally knocked over tubs of glue &
paint, resulting in a mess over the workbench or in the worst case ruining a model. Avoid costly
spillages, keep your modelling workbench clean & tidy by using a purpose made tool/glue stand or
make your own. This could be done using a stiff card, plasticard sheets, plywood etc built up to form
a box with shaped holes cut to take glue bottles, paints etc.
Commercially available paint/glue stands are also available such as Humbrol’s workbench & our
own Scalemodelscenery.co.uk Type One Paint stand. These have purpose made holes that fit glue
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Can that household object be used for modelling? Don’t throw away in the bin use it for modelling
instead. Household disposable items can make a great source of modelling material.
HOW CAN USE WASTE HOUSEHOLD ITEMS?
Building Download Card kits or scratch building is a very cost-effective way of adding buildings &
details to a layout/diorama. Save card packaging from the likes of breakfast cereal boxes as these
are ideal for use as the base layers on download kits. It’s also worth asking shops if they have any
waste cardboard they don’t want as this can be a free source of modelling material. Other everyday
waste objects can make for a great source of modelling materials as well. The late Alan Downes,
who was one of Britain’s master modellers was great at turning everyday waste objects into
modelling masterpieces. One such example was his stunning model of a steelworks which can be
seen above. So think before you throw, ask yourself can I re-use this?
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Can that household object be used for modelling? Don’t throw away in the bin use it for modelling
instead. Household disposable items can make a great source of modelling material.
HOW CAN USERECYCLED GLAZING?
One of our club members ‘Weeblexx123‘ has a fantastic recycling & reuse tip for glazing.
Weeblexx123 says – ” I never throw anything away before thinking can I use it. I keep plastic sprues
and offcuts bits of card, cardboard packaging bits of foam etc. The household plastic recycling
container is a treasure trove especially packaging with clear film that is excellent for glazing.
So as Weeblex123 says, any clear packaging such as what we use here at Sale model scenery for
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Use an electric screwdriver to speed up baseboard building & from getting wrist ache!
WHY SHOULD I USE AN ELECTRIC SCREWDRIVER?
During the building of a layout at some point, you’ll be using a screwdriver. If you’ve not got one
already it’s highly recommended to use an electric screwdriver. Not only speeds up the job but saves
time, it also saves getting sore & aching wrists. A browse any tool/DIY shop, online etc you’ll find
one to suit your budget. Generally available as cordless type & come with built-in rechargeable
battery, most are supplied with a recharger too! They come in the following designs: Straight type,
Most come with a selection of screwdriver bits including a handy magnetic screwdriver bit
attachment. Think which design will suit you best? Ask yourself will you fitting screws in tight corners
& spaces on the layout, or have free unobstructed space for fitting screws? For tight spaces go for
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Add depth & set the scene on your layout by using a photographic backscene.
WHY SHOULD I PHOTOGRAPHIC BACKSCENES?
Backscenes have moved on a long way with lots photographic ones now available on the market.
They, of course, give a more realistic feel to a layout than the older printed image type versions that
have been around decades. The photographic ones range in many different sizes to suit various
scales & cover just about any landscape & scene you can think of. A bonus of the photographic
backscenes, is that various companies can also produce bespoke backscenes either from their own
Here’s a selection from our own range in the link below to give you an idea:
https://www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk/?s=backscene&post_type=product&v=79cba1185463
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Your camera or camera phone is your best tool for collecting modelling reference materials.
areas of your modelling that may not look quite right, or highlight areas that need attention. It’s also a
good way to record how your layout has progressed from start to finish.
Most people these days have a camera built-in on their smartphones, which is ideal for capturing
things you see which would make great models on your daily travels. Look for the little details in the
street that you may not usually take any notice of. Look for things such as grates, manholes,
concrete utility markers, telephone poles, broadband boxes etc. Look for textures & weathering on
brickwork, walls, pavements, road surfaces, windows, roofing etc. Reference photos of what we see
in the street every day can help improve our modelling to recreating a realistic scene. What you
photograph today, may be gone or change in the future. So will help provide a useful reference in
the future, a look at photos of your town/city/village taken over the last few decades can show how
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This tried & tested method works very well indeed. For copper clad sleepers search online for
Wizzard Models who supply copper clad sleepers.
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WHY SHOULD I MODEL WINTER?
The bulk of model railway layouts that are modelled are set in spring/summer time. Add a bit of
variety & model a winter. This could be the whole layout or just a section of a layout with scenic
breaks to divide the winter scene from the rest of the layout. With lots winter snow products available
from, Noch, Woodland Scenics, Deluxe Materials to name a few, modelling snow couldn’t be easier.
Add a snowy backscene to complete the scene these are available from Scalemodelscenery.co.uk,
ID Art Printers as well as various others. Before adding the scenic snow think about what kind of
look you want, is it a light dusting of snow or a heavy blanket of snow? If going for a light dusting of
snow, add vegetation first. Use winter blend static grasses, bare trees etc to your layout first. Add
scenic snow & the longer grasses to poke through the snow as per the real thing.
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faces, roads, rivers etc will need modelling first. Use bare white plaster for the landform base to start
off. Then build up your layers of snow to form snow drifts & deep snow banks. Think which direction
the snow has fallen from, as this affects how the snow will settle on a building. Remember snow
usually settles on flat surfaces, ledges roofs, & on walls that it has been blown on to.
Of course, you can use other materials for making snow. Modellers over the years have used
Polyfilla, scouring powder, talcum powder, plaster, baking soda, flour & salt. Some are ideal for short
temporary periods e.g. photographic purposes. Though salt, flour shouldn’t be used for a permanent
snow scene.
If using overhead lighting use cooler white & blue type lighting colours to help create the effect.
There is a wide range of colour changing LED lighting strips, these allow you to set the colour to suit
your needs. They are widely available from the likes of B&Q, Screwfix, Ebay etc
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out in 1:76 OO scale at around 32cm. With this in mind, many of us often end up using models of
fully grown mature trees that are too small. Some fully grown mature trees can tower above
two-story houses. Have a look next time you are out & about at the trees in your area.
Season & time of year has a big bearing on what the trees look like, so for example if modelling
winter then the trees would be bare. In autumn the leaves & foliage would be various yellows browns
& orange type colours. Springtime with new leaf growth, the leaves will be brighter lighter green
Look for the taller model trees when selecting models of mature trees, these often are found in the
premium range brands of the various model scenic companies. They may cost a little more but are
well worth it. You, of course, can also make your own trees. Use twisted wire coated in plaster &
painted in suitable dark colours, tree trunks aren’t brown as such so look at the real trees & note the
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here’s a way to increase your loco fleet for minimal cost. One side of your loco renumber it to a
different running number thus replicating two locos in the same class. So for example, you have
diesel loco 37 057, remove the number off one side & renumber it say 37 058. So when running &
viewed from one side you’ll see it as 37 057, & when turned round & viewed from the other side
you’ll see it as 37 058. This way you can expand your fleet without actually buying new locos. Only
the cost of a loco transfer number pack. Check out the following loco transfer manufacturers:
● Fox Transfers
● Modelmaster
● HMRS
● Railtec
● Replica Railways
They produce both waterside & pressfix type transfers. The other option is to produce your own
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etc. Blu Tack is one cheap versatile way to use as a third hand.
for holding stuff. Blu Tack is ideal as it’ll stick to most surfaces without damaging them. For attaching
small glued items onto a model try placing a ball of Blu Tack on the end of a screwdriver which will
hold the small part. It’s also ideal for temporarily holding brass etched named headboards on to
locos. Blu Tack is available for all good stationery shops, craft shops, supermarkets etc.
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When installing DCC sound decoders & speakers in your locos, take your time & plan ahead how to
carry out the installation. Look at online guides as well as purchasing books that cover installing
DCC sound. Speak to the DCC sound specialists who offer invaluable advice on what speakers will
or won’t fit in your locos. They’ll also give advice on which speaker is best for your loco & your
budget.
Take your time during when installing the speakers & decoders, DON’T RUSH!! Rushing the job
could mean you miss useful positions for speakers & the wires. Nothing is worse than a rushed a job
which can result in getting wires trapped or fouling the drive mechanism of a loco.
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Vehicles, trains etc don’t stay clean for long. Using weathering washes help give your model &
scenery extra realism. This helps bring out extra detail & can make for impressive looking models if
done correctly. It easy to do & great fun, try practicing on an old model or a test piece of scenery to
begin with.
When painting & weathering rock faces made of plaster, use thin washes rather than using neat
paint. Use water-soluble paints such as thinned artist acrylics, Humbrol washes, Woodland Scenics
pigments. Use Light thinned coats to build up the rock effect. The porosity of plaster will help soak
Using thin washes on buildings etc will help bring out details & add a more realistic natural
weathered look. Look on Youtube videos for videos by Humbrol, Woodland Scenics & other
modelers showing how to use weathering washes & Pigments to achieve different weathered effects
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questions. As well as online, speak to fellow modellers first hand at model shows.
It’s well worth attending any of the model railway & models shows around the country. As well as
seeing layouts & modelling first hand, it’s a great time to ask any questions. Don’t be afraid to speak
to the people running & operating the layouts? Ask them about their layouts, ask them how things on
the layout have been modelled or how things have been wired up etc. They’ll be more than happy to
answer your questions as well as offering hints tips & advice. They’ll also will help point you in the
right direction with your modelling. Remember they’ll have many years of modelling experience, so
should be able to help you. No question is too daft, so don’t be afraid to ask. Even with years of
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damage & knocking off detail parts such as buffer beam details.
Once you’ve added super detailed extra parts to a locomotive, you may find it’ll sometimes not fit
back in its original box. To save accidental damage to a model that has the extra detail parts fitted,
alter or modify the model box. This can be done by simply cutting a section out of the polystyrene
tray or plastic tray that the loco comes in, to allow room for the extra detailed parts.
If this is not possible, then look at other suitable boxes that come with foam inserts. The foam insert
can be easily cut to shape to suit the loco & allow clearance for the extra detailed fitted parts.
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49. Blades
Blades don’t last forever. If a blade has become blunt replace it!
When building card kits, laser cut kits, download kits, always use a new sharp craft knife blade. If the
blade is struggling to cut through card & paper texture sheets, then it’s time to replace the blade as it
has become blunt. A blunt blade will snag & tear the paper texture sheets & end up ruining the
modelling piece. Keep a pack of spare craft knife blades handy & remember to change blades
On a tight budget? Use a blade sharpening tool to re-sharpen knife blades & extend the blade life.
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50. Water
rivers, lakes/lochs, waterfalls, ponds, seas, drainage ditches, puddles etc. As well as using tried &
tested methods such as varnishes, there are also various modelling water products available on the
market. Ready-mixed & ready to pour modelling water products are great & easy to use. The likes of
Deluxe Materials Aqua magic & Woodland Scenics water products are one such items..
For doing deeper water scenes or adding depth, pour the modelling water in layers & allow each
layer to set before pouring additional layers to achieve the depth you require. Some water products
allow you to pour deeper layers such as Woodland Scenics Deep Pour Clear & Deep Pour Murky.
You can add tints to the water to give a more natural look, for example: Canal & river estuaries are a
murky brown colour. Deepwater is usually a dark colour. Sea’s vary in colour such as greens, blues,
browns & dark colours. Rivers usually are more clear along the shallow edges changing to browns &
dark colours in the deeper middle parts of the river. Faster moving water can be modelled using
water effects products to create ripples, waterfalls etc. Add a white pigment paint to highlight foam,
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coal burning fire use some of the small pieces of coal as material for your layout. Preferably the
small pieces of pulverised coal are best. Otherwise, place a lump of coal in a bag & hit with a
hammer to break it down to a suitable size. Use a sieve to grade the coal for use on your layout.
Alternatively if visiting a preserved steam railway, worth asking if they can let you have a piece of
Coal can be fixed in place using P.V.A. glue or scenic model glues. For piles of coal use a 50:50 mix
of P.V.A. glue with a drop of washing up liquid. Use a syringe to carefully apply the glue to piles of
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cut to length using track cutting tools. Ideal for long track runs & creating realistic curves which have
a gentle transition leading into & out of the curves. Using flexible track saves you money over the
traditional settrack type track work. As well Hornby, other makes to consider are Peco, Tillig, C & L
It’s worth using track template tools such as those by Tracksetta amongst others, as these help lay
perfectly straight track & various radius curved track. Don’t forget to but your rail joiners at the same
time you buy the flexible track!! It’s also worth keeping a few spare packs of rail joiners & track pins
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worth going old school by buying a track plan book. There are lots available to choose from both
new & second hand. The likes of for example, Peco track plan books show the track plan but also
how a layout will look when built. Great if needing some inspiration!! Peco & Hornby amongst others
also give a list of which track sections you’ll need, so you’ll have no need to guess as to what track
you’ll need to buy. The track plan books also show where to connect the power supply as well as
Moving up a level there are track plan books also aimed at modellers who want to move onto more
advanced layouts. For example, the likes of the Late C.J.Freezer who penned & published many
excellent track plan books & booklets over the years. Point work used in these sort of track plan
books use the likes of Peco (or similar) longer radius points rather than the sharper radius Hornby
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We hope you enjoyed reading our 53 Tips eBook. Whilst you may already know quite a few of them,
even if you take away just one or two things from this book, then that’s brilliant!
For further hints, tips & videos, and exclusive tutorials, why not check out our Railway Modellers
www.RailwayModellers.com
For details of our growing range of laser cut & 3D printed kits and accessories in OO, N & O scale,
please visit:
www.ScaleModelScenery.co.uk
If you’re on Facebook, please feel free to join our Railway Modellers Group with over 4000 active
members, sharing hints, tips and photos of their layout every day! You can find the group at:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/railwaymodellers/
www.ScaleModelScenery.co.uk 59