Adafruit Neopixel Uberguide
Adafruit Neopixel Uberguide
Guide Contents 2
The Magic of NeoPixels 5
Important Things to Know About NeoPixels in General 5
Can I use NeoPixels for POV (persistence of vision) displays? 6
How about for light painting? 6
Is there a limit to the number of NeoPixels in a chain? 6
Form Factors 7
NeoPixel Strips and Strands 8
RGB NeoPixel Strips 8
Mini Skinny RGB NeoPixel Strips 10
Side-Light NeoPixel Strips 10
RGBW NeoPixel Strips 11
“Neon-Like” NeoPixel Flex Strip 12
Ultraviolet NeoPixel Strips 13
NeoPixel Strands 14
Finer Details About NeoPixel Strips 15
NeoPixel Rings 17
NeoPixel Ring Product Selector (http://adafru.it/3042) 17
Finer Details About NeoPixel Rings 18
NeoPixel Matrices 20
Rigid 8x8 NeoPixel Matrices 20
NeoPixel Matrix Product Selector (http://adafru.it/3052) 20
Flexible NeoPixel Matrices 20
Finer Details About NeoPixel Matrices 22
We also have a few special-purpose matrices on the NeoPixel Shields page! 22
NeoPixel Shields 23
NeoPixel Shield for Arduino 23
NeoPixel Shield Product Selector (https://adafru.it/lCw) 23
NeoPixel FeatherWing 23
Pimoroni Unicorn Hat 24
Particle/Spark NeoPixel Ring Kit 24
Other NeoPixel Shapes 26
NeoPixel Stick 26
NeoPixel Stick Product Selector (http://adafru.it/3039) 26
NeoPixel Jewels 26
NeoPixel Jewel Product Selector (http://adafru.it/3047) 27
1/4 60 NeoPixel Ring 27
NeoPixel Ring Product Selector (http://adafru.it/3042) 27
Side Light NeoPixel LED PCB Bar 27
Individual NeoPixels 29
Integrated NeoPixel Products 29
Flora RGB Smart NeoPixels 29
Breadboard-Friendly RGB Smart NeoPixels 29
NeoPixel Mini PCB 30
Discrete NeoPixel Products 31
Through-Hole NeoPixels 31
The WS2812 Integrated Light Source — or NeoPixel in Adafruit parlance — is the latest advance in the
quest for a simple, scalable and affordable full-color LED. Red, green and blue LEDs are integrated
alongside a driver chip into a tiny surface-mount package controlled through a single wire. They can be
used individually, chained into longer strings or assembled into still more interesting form-factors.
We know you’re eager to get started…but If this is your first time using NeoPixels, please at least
read the “Best Practices” page before connecting anything!
1. RAM: NeoPixels require some RAM from the host microcontroller; more pixels = more RAM. It’s only a
few bytes each, but as most microcontrollers are pretty resource-constrained, this becomes a very
real consideration for large projects.
2. Power: each NeoPixel draws a little bit of current; more pixels = more power. Power supplies likewise
have some upper limit.
3. Time: NeoPixels process data from the host microcontroller at a fixed data rate; more pixels = more
time and lower animation frame rates.
NeoPixel products are available in a zillion form factors…from individual tiny pixels to huge matrices…plus
strips, rings and everything in-between.
Pick a category from the left column for product links and tips & tricks specific to each type of NeoPixel.
Though strips are described as “flexible,” they do not tolerate continuous and repeated
bending. “Formable” might be a better word. A typical application is architecture, where they can be
curved around columns and then stay put. Repeated flexing (as on costumes) will soon crack the
solder connections. For wearable use, either affix shorter segments to a semi-rigid base (e.g. a hat,
BMX armor, etc.), or use the individual sewable NeoPixels shown later.
Watch your power draw. Though each pixel only needs a little current, it adds up fast…NeoPixel
strips are so simple to use, one can quickly get carried away! We’ll explain more on the “Powering
NeoPixels” page.
Mini Skinny NeoPixel strips are about half the width of classic
NeoPixel strips. They’re available in two densities and
backing colors:
With a fourth LED per pixel, these strips may potentially draw
up to 33% more current than their RGB equivalents. The
maximum brightest cases are (approximately):
Some batches of 144 pixel strip don’t have pads between the
LEDs. If you cut these into shorter sections, the only way to
connect to them (except at the half-meter segments) is to
carefully solder directly to the LED. The corner with the notch
is the GND pin.
NeoPixel strips are just the start…we’ve got shapes too! Rings, grids, shields and more…
Rather than list a zillion different links, we have a single landing page for selecting among all the different
NeoPixel ring products:
12 37 mm / 1.5" 23 mm / 1"
All rings are about 3.6 millimeters / 0.15" thick (1.6 mm for PCB, 2 mm for NeoPixels).
RGB NeoPixels are the most affordable and can produce millions of color combinations.
RGBW NeoPixels offer an eye-pleasing “true” white in addition to RGB. These are available in three
different color temperaures:
RGBW pixels incorporate a translucent diffuser layer to help mix and soften the light output. This makes
them appear less intense than RGB pixels (which are “water clear”), but it’s really the same LEDs inside.
Total # of
Size Dimensions Max Power Draw (approx)
LEDs
320 mm x 80 mm / 12.6" x
8x32 256 77 Watts (15 Amps at 5 Volts)
3"
Though called “flexible,” these matrices do not tolerate continuous and repeated bending. “Formable”
might be a better word — they can be bent around a rigid or semi-rigid shape, like a hat. Repeated flexing
(as on costumes) will soon crack the solder connections. (The videos on the product pages are to
highlight just how flexible these matrices are, but this really is a “don’t try this at home” thing.)
Flex matrices are available with RGB pixels only; RGBW is not offered.
If you need a size or shape of NeoPixel matrix that’s not offered here, it’s possible to create your own
using sections of NeoPixel strip!
NeoPixel matrices don’t enforce any particular “topology” — some may have rows of pixels arranged left-
to-right, others may alternate left-to-right and right-to-left rows, or they could be installed in vertical
columns instead. This will require some planning in your code. Our NeoMatrix library supports most
matrix topologies.
NeoPixel FeatherWing
Due to the way Unicorn HAT works, you can't use your Pi's
analog audio alongside it. If you see odd random colour
patterns and flickering make sure analog audio is disabled.
NeoPixel Jewels
It’s very strongly recommended that each NeoPixel have an accompanying 0.1 μF capacitor between +V
and ground. This prevents communication problems due to brownout of the on-pixel driver logic. It’s
occasionally sufficient to have one capacitor between pairs of pixels; some of our NeoPixel rings work that
way.
Through-Hole NeoPixels
SMT NeoPixels
WS2811 Driver IC
The NeoPixel driver logic is available
separately (http://adafru.it/1378) from the LEDs, allowing
power-users to create extremely customized designs…
perhaps using other LED colors, or combined with power
MOSFETs (http://adafru.it/355) to control high-current LEDs or
“analog” RGB LED strips (https://adafru.it/lCy) using the
NeoPixel protocol.
Identify the “input” end of your NeoPixel strip, pixel(s) or other device. On some, there will be a solder pad
labeled “DIN” or “DI” (data input). Others will have an arrow showing the direction that data moves. The
data input can originate from any digital pin on the Arduino, but all the example code is set up for digital
pin 6 by default. The NeoPixel shield comes wired this way.
For other Arduino boards with a separate +5V DC power supply for the NeoPixels: connect the +5V input
on the strip to the + (positive) terminal on the power supply (don’t connect to the Arduino), DIN to digital
pin 6 on the Arduino, and – (minus or GND) on the strip must connect to both the minus (–) terminal on the
DC supply and a GND pin on the Arduino (there are usually several — any will do).
The 144 pixel strips are so tightly packed, there’s no room for labels other than –, + and the data direction
arrows. Data is the un-labeled pad.
The order of the three pins can vary between different strip densities and batches. ALWAYS use the
labels printed ON THE STRIP. Look closely, NEVER blindly follow a NeoPixel strip wiring diagram; it
might be based on a different strip type!
When connecting NeoPixels to any LIVE power source or microcontroller, ALWAYS CONNECT
When using a DC power supply, or an especially large battery, we recommend adding a large
capacitor (1000 µF, 6.3V or higher) across the + and – terminals. This prevents the initial onrush of
current from damaging the pixels. See the photo on the next page for an example.
With through-hole NeoPixels (5mm or 8mm), add a 0.1 µF capacitor between the + and – pins of
EACH PIXEL. Individual pixels may misbehave without this “decoupling cap.”
Adding a ~470 ohm resistor between your microcontroller's data pin and the data input on the
NeoPixels can help prevent spikes on the data line that can damage your first pixel. Please add one
between your micro and NeoPixels! Our NeoPixel rings already have this resistor on there
Before connecting NeoPixels to any large power source (DC “wall wart” or even a large battery), add
a capacitor (1000 µF, 6.3V or higher) across the + and – terminals as shown above. The capacitor
buffers sudden changes in the current drawn by the strip.
Place a 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between the Arduino data output pin and the input to the first
NeoPixel. The resistor should be at the end of the wire closest to the NeoPixel(s), not the
microcontroller. Some products already incorporate this resistor…if you’re not sure, add one…there’s
no harm in doubling up!
Try to minimize the distance between the Arduino and first pixel, so the signal is clear. A meter or
two is usually no problem. Much longer and things can become unreliable.
Avoid connecting NeoPixels to a live circuit. If you simply must, always connect ground first, then
+5V, then data. Disconnect in the reverse order.
If powering the pixels with a separate supply, apply power to the pixels before applying power to the
microcontroller.
Observe the same precautions as you would for any static-sensitive part; ground yourself before
handling, etc.
NeoPixels powered by 5v require a 5V data signal. If using a 3.3V microcontroller you must use a
logic level shifter such as a 74AHCT125 (https://adafru.it/e5g) or 74HCT245 (http://adafru.it/1779). (If
you are powering your NeoPixels with 3.7v like from a LiPoly, a 3.3v data signal is OK)
Make sure that your connections are secure. Alligator clips do not make reliable connections to the
tiny solder pads on NeoPixel rings. Better to solder a small pigtail wire to the ring and attach the
alligator clips to that.
If your microcontroller and NeoPixels are powered from two different sources (e.g. separate batteries
for each), there must be a ground connection between the two.
Some of our projects don’t make the above precautions…these are typically small battery-powered
devices and power spikes aren’t a big concern. Any project with a lot pixels or a large power
source should definitely include the power capacitor and data line resistor.
Adding a 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between your microcontroller's data pin and the data input on the
first NeoPixel can help prevent voltage spikes that might otherwise damage your first pixel. Please
add one between your micro and NeoPixels!
NeoPixels are usually described as “5 Volt devices,” but the reality is a little more nuanced than that.
Some (not all) NeoPixel products can work with slightly higher voltages. This depends on the additional
support components around the chip, based on available space, cost and the most likely application.
Refer to the specific product description page for guidance on acceptable voltage limits for each type.
When in doubt, aim for 5 Volts.
Lower voltages are always acceptable, with the caveat that the LEDs will be slightly dimmer. There’s a
limit below which the LED will fail to light, or will start to show the wrong color.
Make sure you only use NiMH cells in this configuration. Four
alkaline cells (the disposable type) will output 6V total — that’s
too high for some NeoPixels, and definitely too much for the
microcontroller!
Battery-operated LED project planning is discussed in greater detail in Battery Power for LED Pixels and
Strips (https://adafru.it/cDU).
To estimate power supply needs, multiply the number of pixels by 20, then divide the result by 1,000 for
the “rule of thumb” power supply rating in Amps. Or use 60 (instead of 20) if you want to guarantee an
absolute margin of safety for all situations. For example:
The choice of “overhead” in your power supply is up to you. Maximum safety and reliability are achieved
with a more generously-sized power supply, and this is what we recommend. Most power supplies can
briefly push a little extra current for short periods. Many contain a thermal fuse and will simply shut down if
overworked. So they may technically work, but this is the electronics equivalent of abusing a rental car.
Keep in mind, 60 mA is a worst case estimate! We’ve written a whole separate tutorial on getting things
under control: Sipping Power with NeoPixels (https://adafru.it/wbm).
I estimate I need a 3.6 Amp power supply. I have a 10 Amp supply on-
hand. Will this cause my NeoPixels to explode?
As long as the output is 5 Volts DC, you’re golden. The LEDs will only draw as much current (Amperes) as
they need. So extra Amps are OK — in fact, it can be a good thing. The larger power supply will run cooler
because it’s not being pushed to its limit.
If you go this route, the key is to have all of the ground pins among the strips connected in common, but
the +5V from each power supply should be connected only to one length of NeoPixels — those should not
all be joined. Every power supply is a little different — not precisely 5 Volts — and this keeps some from
back-feeding into others.
One possibility is to repurpose an ATX computer power supply. The nice beefy server types often provide
up to 30 Amps. Some minor modifications are needed…Google around for “ATX power supply hack.”
Note that the ATX 5V rail can be very unstable if there's no load on the 12V rail!
Even larger (and scarier, and much more expensive) are laboratory power supplies with ratings into the
hundreds of Amps. Sometimes this is what’s needed for architectural scale projects and large stage
productions. And occasionally we get requests for help…
Please note that projects of this scale are potentially very dangerous , and the problems of power
distribution are fundamentally different than hobby-scale projects. As much as we enjoy helping our
customers in the forums, they are for product technical support and not full-on engineering services. If
you’re developing a project of this scope, hire a professional electrician with experience in high-power,
low-voltage systems such as photovoltaics or large RVs and boats. This is no charade.
Distributing Power
The longer a wire is, the more resistance it has. The more resistance, the more voltage drops along its
length. If voltage drops too far, the color of NeoPixels can be affected.
Consider a full 4 meter reel of NeoPixels. With 5V applied at one end of the strip, for those pixels closest
to this end, power traverses only a few inches of copper. But at the far end of the strip, power traverses 8
meters of copper — 4 meters out on the +5V line, 4 meters back on the ground line. Those furthest pixels
will be tinted brown due to the voltage drop (blue and green LEDs require higher voltage than red).
1. Lower the voltage to the NeoPixels so it’s closer (or equal) to that of the microcontroller. This is why
we recommend LiPo batteries for FLORA projects: 3.7V is enough to run a short length of pixels, and
the microcontroller is comfortable at that voltage as well.
2. Use a logic level shifter (https://adafru.it/e5g) to step up the signal from the microcontroller to the first
pixel.
For more info on using a level shifter with your NeoPixels, have a look at this guide. (https://adafru.it/FXc)
Pick a category from the left column for information specific to each coding environment.
Because processor-specific assembly language is used, this library does not work on Netduino, ChipKIT
or other advanced “Arduino-like” boards. Others may have written code and libraries for such boards, but
we’re not able to provide technical support for any bugs or trouble you might encounter there; it’s some
real frontier engineering. Some of these alternative libraries are covered in the “Advanced Coding”
section.
https://adafru.it/cDj
https://adafru.it/cDj
1. Uncompress the ZIP file after it’s finished downloading.
2. The resulting folder should contain the files Adafruit_NeoPixel.cpp, Adafruit_NeoPixel.h and an
“examples” sub-folder. Sometimes in Windows you’ll get an intermediate-level folder and need to
move things around.
3. Rename the folder (containing the .cpp and .h files) to Adafruit_NeoPixel (with the underscore and
Here’s a tutorial (https://adafru.it/aYM) that walks through the process of correctly installing Arduino
libraries manually.
(If the Adafruit_NeoPixel rollover menu is not present, the library has not been correctly installed, or the
IDE needs to be restarted after installation. Check the installation steps above to confirm it’s properly
named and located.)
Select your board type and serial port from the Tools menu, and try uploading to the board. If the
NeoPixels are connected and powered as previously described, you should see a little light show.
Nothing happens!
Check your connections. The most common mistake is connecting to the output end of a strip rather than
the input.
to
Adafruit_NeoPixel strip(LED_COUNT, LED_PIN, NEO_RGBW + NEO_KHZ800);
I don't have RGBW LEDs and the LEDs are still blinking weird!
99% of the time this is due to not having a shared ground wire connected to the Arduino. Make sure the
Ground wire from the Neopixels connects to BOTH your power supply ground AND the Arduino ground.
It’s assumed at this point that you have the Adafruit_NeoPixel library for Arduino installed and have run
the strandtest example sketch successfully. If not, return to the prior page for directions to set that up.
To learn about writing your own NeoPixel sketches, let’s begin by dissecting the strandtest sketch…
#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>
The block of code that follows is mostly descriptive comments. Only a couple lines are really doing any
work:
The first few lines assign numbers to the symbols “LED_PIN” and “LED_COUNT” for later reference. It
doesn’t need to be done this way, but makes it easier to change the pin and length where the NeoPixels
are connected without digging deeper into the code.
The last line declares a NeoPixel object. We’ll refer to this by name later to control the strip of pixels.
There are three parameters or arguments in parenthesis:
1. The number of sequential NeoPixels in the strip. In the example this is set to LED_COUNT, which was
defined as 60 above, equal to 1 meter of medium-density strip. Change this to match the actual
number you’re using.
2. The pin number to which the NeoPixel strip (or other device) is connected. Normally this would be a
number, but we previously declared the symbol LED_PIN to refer to it by name here.
3. A value indicating the type of NeoPixels that are connected. In most cases you can leave this off and
pass just two arguments; the example code is just being extra descriptive. If you have a supply of
classic “V1” Flora pixels, those require NEO_KHZ400 + NEO_RGB to be passed here. RGBW
NeoPixels also require a different value here: NEO_RGBW.
Then, in the setup() function, call begin() to prepare the data pin for NeoPixel output:
void setup() {
strip.begin();
strip.show(); // Initialize all pixels to 'off'
}
The second line, strip.show(), isn’t absolutely necessary, it’s just there to be thorough. That function
pushes data out to the pixels…since no colors have been set yet, this initializes all the NeoPixels to an
initial “off” state in case some were left lit by a prior program.
The Adafruit Trinket 5V 16 MHz board requires a little extra setup. You can see the steps required in
the “strandtest” example sketch.
In the strandtest example, loop() doesn’t set any pixel colors on its own — it calls other functions that
create animated effects. So let’s ignore it for now and look ahead, inside the individual functions, to see
how the strip is controlled.
There are a couple different ways to set the color of a pixel. The first is:
The first argument — n in this example — is the pixel number along the strip, starting from 0 closest to the
Arduino. If you have a strip of 30 pixels, they’re numbered 0 through 29. It’s a computer thing. You’ll see
various places in the code using a for loop, passing the loop counter variable as the pixel number to this
function, to set the values of multiple pixels.
The next three arguments are the pixel color, expressed as red, green and blue brightness levels, where 0
is dimmest (off) and 255 is maximum brightness. The last optional argument is for white, which will only be
used if the strip was defined during creation as an RGBW type and the strip actually is RGBW type.
To set the 12th pixel (#11, counting from 0) to magenta (red + blue), you could write:
to set the 8th pixel (#7 counting from 0) to half-brightness white (with an RGBW strip), with no light from
red/green/blue, use:
Here, color is a 32-bit type that merges the red, green and blue values into a single number. This is
sometimes easier or faster for some (but not all) programs to work with; you’ll see the strandtest code
uses both syntaxes in different places.
You can also convert separate red, green and blue values into a single 32-bit type for later use:
uint32_t magenta = strip.Color(255, 0, 255);
Then later you can just pass “magenta” as an argument to setPixelColor rather than the separate red,
green and blue numbers every time.
You can also (optionally) add a white component to the color at the end, like this:
setPixelColor() does not have an immediate effect on the LEDs. To “push” the color data to the strip, call
show():
strip.show();
This updates the whole strip at once, and despite the extra step is actually a good thing. If every call to
setPixelColor() had an immediate effect, animation would appear jumpy rather than buttery smooth.
Multiple pixels can be set to the same color using the fill() function, which accepts one to three arguments.
Typically it’s called like this:
“color” is a packed 32-bit RGB (or RGBW) color value, as might be returned by strip.Color(). There is no
option here for separate red, green and blue, so call the Color() function to pack these into one value.
“first” is the index of the first pixel to fill, where 0 is the first pixel in the strip, and strip.numPixels() - 1 is the
last. Must be a positive value or 0.
If called without a count argument (only color and first), this will from first to the end of the strip.
If called without first or count arguments (only color), the full strip will be set to the requested color.
If called with no arguments, the strip will be filled with black or “off,” but there’s also a different syntax
which might be easier to read:
strip.clear();
This returns a 32-bit merged RGB color value. This is always RGB, even if the “ColorHSV()” function
(described below) was used.
The overall brightness of all the LEDs can be adjusted using setBrightness(). This takes a single argument,
a number in the range 0 (off) to 255 (max brightness). For example, to set a strip to 1/4 brightness:
strip.setBrightness(64);
Just like setPixel(), this does not have an immediate effect. You need to follow this with a call to show().
setBrightness() was intended to be called once, in setup(), to limit the current/brightness of the LEDs
throughout the life of the sketch. It is not intended as an animation effect itself! The operation of this
function is “lossy” — it modifies the current pixel data in RAM, not in the show() call — in order to meet
NeoPixels’ strict timing requirements. Certain animation effects are better served by leaving the
brightness setting at the default maximum, modulating pixel brightness in your own sketch logic and
redrawing the full strip with setPixel().
setPixelColor() and fill() both still want RGB values though, so we convert to these from HSV by using the
ColorHSV() function:
If you just want a “pure color” (fully saturated and full brightness), the latter two arguments can be left off:
In either case, the resulting RGB value can then be passed to a pixel-setting function, e.g.:
strip.fill(rgbcolor);
There is no corresponding function to go the other way , from RGB to HSV. This is on purpose and by
design, because conversion in that direction is often ambiguous — there may be multiple valid possibilities
for a given input. If you look at some of the example sketches you’ll see they keep track of their own
hues…they don’t assign colors to pixels and then try to read them back out again.
The gamma32() function takes a packed RGB value (as you might get out of Color() or ColorHSV()) and
filters the result to look more perceptually correct.
You might notice in strandtest and other example sketches that we never use ColorHSV() without passing
the result through gamma32() before setting a pixel’s color. It’s that desirable.
However, the gamma32 operation is not built in to ColorHSV() — it must be called as a separate operation
— for a few reasons, including that advanced programmers might want to provide a more specific color-
correction function of their own design (gamma32() is a “one size fits most” approximation) or may need to
keep around the original “numerically but not perceptually correct” numbers.
There is no corresponding reverse operation. When you set a pixel to a color filtered through gamma32(),
reading back the pixel value yields that filtered color, not the original RGB value. It’s precisely because of
this sort of decimation that advanced NeoPixel programs often treat the pixel buffer as a write-only
resource…they generate each full frame of animation based on their own program state, not as a series of
read-modify-write operations.
Help!
I’m calling setPixel() but nothing’s happening!
There are two main culprits for this:
1. forgetting to call strip.begin() in setup().
2. forgetting to call strip.show() after setting pixel colors.
The above declares two distinct NeoPixel objects, one each on pins 5 and 6, each containing 16 pixels and
using the implied default type (NEO_KHZ800 + NEO_GRB).
I'm getting the wrong colors. Red and blue are swapped!
When using through-hole 8mm NeoPixels (or V1 Flora pixels), use NEO_RGB for the third parameter in the
Adafruit_NeoPixel declaration. For all other types of NeoPixels, use NEO_GRB.
Also see the “Advanced Coding” page — there’s an alternative library that includes “nondestructive”
brightness adjustment, among other features!
For using really large numbers of LEDs, you might need to step up to a more potent board like the
Arduino Mega or Due. But if you’re close and need just a little extra space, you can sometimes tweak your
code to be more RAM-efficient. This tutorial has some pointers on memory usage. (https://adafru.it/coj)
The Adafruit_NeoMatrix library builds upon Adafruit_NeoPixel to create two-dimensional graphic displays
using NeoPixels. You can then easily draw shapes, text and animation without having to calculate every
X/Y pixel position. Small NeoPixel matrices are available in the shop. Larger displays can be formed using
sections of NeoPixel strip, as shown in the photo above.
In addition to the Adafruit_NeoPixel library (which was already downloaded and installed in a prior step),
NeoMatrix requires two additional libraries:
1. Adafruit_NeoMatrix (https://adafru.it/cDt)
2. Adafruit_GFX (https://adafru.it/cBB)
If you’ve previously used any Adafruit LCD or OLED displays, you might already have the latter library
installed.
Installation for both is similar to Adafruit_NeoPixel before: unzip, make sure the folder name matches the
.cpp and .h files within, then move to your Arduino libraries folder and restart the IDE.
If using an older (pre-1.8.10) Arduino IDE, you’ll also need to locate and install
Adafruit_BusIO (https://adafru.it/Ldl).
Arduino sketches need to include all three headers just to use this library:
#include <Adafruit_GFX.h>
#include <Adafruit_NeoMatrix.h>
#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>
Layouts
Adafruit_NeoMatrix uses exactly the same coordinate system, color functions and graphics commands as
the Adafruit_GFX library. If you’re new to the latter, a separate tutorial explains its
use (https://adafru.it/aPe). There are also example sketches included with the Adafruit_NeoMatrix library.
We’ll just focus on the constructor here — how to declare a two-dimensional display made from NeoPixels.
Powering the beast is another matter, covered on the prior page.
The library handles both single matrices — all NeoPixels in a single uniform grid — and tiled matrices —
Let’s begin with the declaration for a single matrix, because it’s simpler to explain. We’ll be demonstrating
the NeoPixel Shield for Arduino in this case — an 8x5 matrix of NeoPixels. When looking at this shield with
the text in a readable orientation, the first pixel, #0, is at the top left. Each successive pixel is right one
position — pixel 1 is directly to the right of pixel 0, and so forth. At the end of each row, the next pixel is at
the left side of the next row. This isn’t something we decide in code…it’s how the NeoPixels are hard-
wired in the circuit board comprising the shield.
We refer to this layout as row major and progressive. Row major means the pixels are arranged in
horizontal lines (the opposite, in vertical lines, is column major ). Progressive means each row proceeds in
the same direction. Some matrices will reverse direction on each row, as it can be easier to wire that way.
We call that a zigzag layout.
However…for this example, we want to use the shield in the “tall” direction, so the Arduino is standing up
on the desk with the USB cable at the top. When we turn the board this way, the matrix layout changes…
The first two arguments — 5 and 8 — are the width and height of the matrix, in pixels. The third argument
— 6 — is the pin number to which the NeoPixels are connected. On the shield this is hard-wired to digital
pin 6, but standalone matrices are free to use other pins.
The next argument is the interesting one. This indicates where the first pixel in the matrix is positioned
and the arrangement of rows or columns. The first pixel must be at one of the four corners; which corner is
indicated by adding either NEO_MATRIX_TOP or NEO_MATRIX_BOTTOM to either NEO_MATRIX_LEFT
or NEO_MATRIX_RIGHT. The row/column arrangement is indicated by further adding either
NEO_MATRIX_COLUMNS or NEO_MATRIX_ROWS to either NEO_MATRIX_PROGRESSIVE or
NEO_MATRIX_ZIGZAG. These values are all added to form a single value as in the above code.
The point of this setup is that the rest of the sketch never needs to think about the layout of the matrix.
Coordinate (0,0) for drawing graphics will always be at the top-left, regardless of the actual position of
the first NeoPixel.
Tiled Matrices
A tiled matrix is comprised of multiple smaller NeoPixel matrices. This is sometimes easier for assembly or
for distributing power. All of the sub-matrices need to be the same size, and must be ordered in a
predictable manner. The Adafruit_NeoMatrix() constructor then receives some additional arguments:
Adafruit_NeoMatrix matrix = Adafruit_NeoMatrix(
matrixWidth, matrixHeight, tilesX, tilesY, pin, matrixType, ledType);
The first two arguments are the width and height, in pixels, of each tiled sub-matrix, not the entire display.
The next two arguments are the number of tiles, in the horizontal and vertical direction. The dimensions of
the overall display then will always be a multiple of the sub-matrix dimensions.
The fifth argument is the pin number, same as before and as with the NeoPixel library. The last argument
also follows prior behaviors, and in most cases can be left off.
With a single matrix, there was a starting corner, a major axis (rows or columns) and a line sequence
(progressive or zigzag). This is now doubled — similar information is needed both for the pixel order within
the individual tiles, and the overall arrangement of tiles in the display. As before, we add up a list of
symbols to produce a single argument describing the display format.
The NEO_MATRIX_* symbols work the same as in the prior single-matrix case, and now refer to the
individual sub-matrices within the overall display. All tiles must follow the same format. An additional set of
symbols work similarly to then describe the tile order.
The first tile must be located at one of the four corners. Add either NEO_TILE_TOP or
NEO_TILE_BOTTOM and NEO_TILE_LEFT or NEO_TILE_RIGHT to indicate the position of the first tile.
This is independent of the position of the first pixel within the tiles; they can be different corners.
Tiles can be arranged in horizontal rows or vertical columns. Again this is independent of the pixel order
within the tiles. Add either NEO_TILE_ROWS or NEO_TILE_COLUMNS.
Tiles don’t need to be square! The above is just one possible layout. The display shown at the top of this
page is three 10x8 tiles assembled from NeoPixel strip.
Once the matrix is defined, the remainder of the project is similar to Adafruit_NeoPixel. Remember to use
matrix.begin() in the setup() function and matrix.show() to update the display after drawing. The
setBrightness() function is also available. The library includes a couple of example sketches for reference.
Other Layouts
For any other cases that are not uniformly tiled, you can provide your own function to remap X/Y
coordinates to NeoPixel strip indices. This function should accept two unsigned 16-bit arguments (pixel X,
Y coordinates) and return an unsigned 16-bit value (corresponding strip index). The simplest row-major
progressive function might resemble this:
uint16_t myRemapFn(uint16_t x, uint16_t y) {
return WIDTH * y + x;
}
That’s a crude example. Yours might be designed for pixels arranged in a spiral (easy wiring), or a Hilbert
curve.
RAM Again
On a per-pixel basis, Adafruit_NeoMatrix is no more memory-hungry than Adafruit_NeoPixel, requiring 3
bytes of RAM per pixel. But the number of pixels in a two-dimensional display takes off exponentially…a
16x16 display requires four times the memory of an 8x8 display, or about 768 bytes of RAM (nearly half the
available space on an Arduino Uno). It can be anywhere from tricky to impossible to combine large
Gamma Correction
Because the Adafruit_GFX library was originally designed for LCDs (having limited color fidelity), it handles
colors as 16-bit values (rather than the full 24 bits that NeoPixels are capable of). This is not the big loss it
might seem. A quirk of human vision makes bright colors less discernible than dim ones. The
Adafruit_NeoMatrix library uses gamma correction to select brightness levels that are visually (though not
numerically) equidistant. There are 32 levels for red and blue, 64 levels for green.
The Color() function performs the necessary conversion; you don’t need to do any math. It accepts 8-bit
red, green and blue values, and returns a gamma-corrected 16-bit color that can then be passed to other
drawing functions.
FastLED works altogether differently; it’s not a drop-in replacement for Adafruit_NeoPixel, and existing
sketches will require some rewriting.
Note: FastLED currently works only with RGB NeoPixels; RGBW pixels are not yet supported. At all. You
will get incorrect and unpredictable colors.
We don’t write or maintain FastLED, and can’t provide software troubleshooting advice. If requesting help
with a FastLED NeoPixel project in the forums, we’ll usually ask that you try one of the known-working
Adafruit_NeoPixel example sketches to narrow down whether it’s a hardware or software issue.
If you don't constantly update the NeoPixel, IR will work in between updates, but if you update them all
the time, you will need to use another library and a microcontroller more capable than an
Uno or Mega. Ideally one with DMA so that NeoPixels don't take up any CPU cycles.
Marc MERLIN explains how to this depending on what chip you have (Teensy, ESP8266 or ESP32):
http://marc.merlins.org/perso/arduino/post_2017-04-03_Arduino-328P-Uno-Teensy3_1-ESP8266-ESP32-
IR-and-Neopixels.html (https://adafru.it/xA2)
For a strip of 100 pixels, that’s (100 * 30) + 50, or 3,050 microseconds. 1,000,000 / 3,050 = 328 updates
per second, approximately.
However…
That’s only the time needed to push the bits down the wire. The actual refresh rate will be something less
than this, and can’t be estimated as a single number for all cases. It takes time to process each “frame” of
animation. How much time depends on the complexity of the math and the efficiency of the code (for
example, floating-point calculations can be relatively slow). The formula above gives a maximum
theoretical rate, but that’s just a starting point. Reality in some cases could fall an order of magnitude (or
more) below this.
For exploratory benchmarking, you can always write code as if a large number of pixels were present, and
time the result. The extra output bits will simply be ignored by the strip (or you can even test with no
NeoPixels connected at all).
One option is to use a different LED type, such as our DotStar or LPD8806 strips, or WS2801 pixels. These
can be driven at higher data rates, though they do have some other tradeoffs with respect to NeoPixels
(cost, color resolution and/or pixel density).
Another is to develop your own code on a more capable microcontroller or an FPGA that drives multiple
NeoPixel strips in parallel. One such project — OctoWS2811 for the Teensy 3 microcontroller — is shown
later. This sort of thing is a complex undertaking and not recommended for beginners. And even among
more experienced programmers, there’s often an unreasonable over-emphasis on data rates when the
real bottlenecks lie elsewhere…don’t dwell on this too much unless you can confirm it’s the root of
the problem.
Plus a super potent 8-way concurrent NeoPixel DMA library (https://adafru.it/Blw). We offer a
companion FeatherWing (https://adafru.it/Et6) and breakout board (https://adafru.it/CJd) to make
connections and level-shifting easier!
Third-Party Libraries
In addition to the previously-mentioned FastLED library, NeoPixel-compatible libraries have been
developed for devices beyond Arduino. Please keep in mind that Adafruit did not develop any of this code
and can’t fix bugs or offer technical help. This is Wild West stuff.
OctoWS2811 (https://adafru.it/cDM): specifically for the PJRC Teensy 3.0 microcontroller board. Uses
DMA to drive up to 8 NeoPixel strips concurrently with minimal processor load. Multiple boards can
be cascaded for still larger displays.
FadeCandy (https://adafru.it/cDN): also for Teensy 3.0. Doesn’t support as many pixels as
OctoWS2811, but adds dithering and smooth interpolation for color purists.
LEDscape (https://adafru.it/cDO): specifically for BeagleBone Black. Although the BeagleBone is a
multitasking Linux system like the not-NeoPixel-compatible Raspberry Pi, this code exploits hardware
features specific to the BeagleBone Black to drive hundreds of meters of NeoPixel strip with virtually
no processor load.
WS2812 LED Driver (https://adafru.it/Etc) for Parallax Propeller.
xCORE NeoPixel test code (https://adafru.it/dcO) for the XMOS xCORE startKIT.
Some of these are 3.3V devices. See the “Powering NeoPixel” page for notes on controlling 5V
NeoPixels from 3.3V microcontrollers.
There’s a math goof in the datasheet’s timing values. Use these figures instead:
Note that there’s nearly 25% “wiggle room” in the timing. So if your code can’t match the recommended
times exactly, it’s usually okay, as long as it’s close.
There are three bytes of data for each pixel. These should be issued in green, red, blue order, with the
most-significant bit first.
The data for pixel #0 (nearest the microcontroller) is issued first, then pixel #1, and so forth to the furthest
pixel. This does not operate like a traditional shift register!
After all the color data is sent, the data line must be held low for a minimum of 50 microseconds for the
new colors to “latch.”
You may want to dig through our Arduino library (https://adafru.it/aZU) for insights. The timing-critial parts
are written in AVR assembly language, but it’s extensively commented with C-like pseudocode.
You can use these LEDs with any CircuitPython microcontroller board or with a computer that has GPIO
and Python thanks to Adafruit_Blinka, our CircuitPython-for-Python compatibility
library (https://adafru.it/BSN).
Of single boards computers, only Raspberry Pi computers have NeoPixel support at this time.
Do not use the USB pin on your microcontroller for powering more than a few LEDs! For more than
that, you'll want to use an external power source. For more information, check out the Powering
NeoPixels page of this guide: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/powering-
neopixels
First make sure you are running the latest version of Adafruit CircuitPython (https://adafru.it/Amd) for your
board.
Next you'll need to install the necessary libraries to use the hardware--carefully follow the steps to find and
install these libraries from Adafruit's CircuitPython library bundle (https://adafru.it/uap). Our CircuitPython
starter guide has a great page on how to install the library bundle (https://adafru.it/ABU).
For non-express boards like the Trinket M0 or Gemma M0, you'll need to manually install the necessary
libraries from the bundle:
neopixel.mpy
adafruit_bus_device
Before continuing make sure your board's lib folder or root filesystem has the neopixel.mpy, and
adafruit_bus_device files and folders copied over.
Next connect to the board's serial REPL (https://adafru.it/Awz) so you are at the CircuitPython >>> prompt.
Once that's done, from your command line run the following command:
If your default Python is version 3 you may need to run 'pip' instead. Just make sure you aren't trying to
use CircuitPython on Python 2.x, it isn't supported!
For NeoPixels to work on Raspberry Pi, you must run the code as root! Root access is required to
access the RPi peripherals.
Run the following code to import the necessary modules and initialise a NeoPixel strip with 30 LEDs. Don't
forget to change the pin if your NeoPixels are connected to a different pin, and change the number of
pixels if you have a different number.
import board
import neopixel
pixels = neopixel.NeoPixel(board.D5, 30) # Feather wiring!
# pixels = neopixel.NeoPixel(board.D18, 30) # Raspberry Pi wiring!
Now you're ready to light up your NeoPixel LEDs using the following properties:
pixels[0] = (255, 0, 0)
That's all there is to getting started with CircuitPython and NeoPixel LEDs!
import time
import board
import neopixel
# On CircuitPlayground Express, and boards with built in status NeoPixel -> board.NEOPIXEL
# Otherwise choose an open pin connected to the Data In of the NeoPixel strip, i.e. board.D1
pixel_pin = board.NEOPIXEL
# On a Raspberry pi, use this instead, not all pins are supported
# pixel_pin = board.D18
# The order of the pixel colors - RGB or GRB. Some NeoPixels have red and green reversed!
# For RGBW NeoPixels, simply change the ORDER to RGBW or GRBW.
ORDER = neopixel.GRB
pixels = neopixel.NeoPixel(
pixel_pin, num_pixels, brightness=0.2, auto_write=False, pixel_order=ORDER
)
def wheel(pos):
# Input a value 0 to 255 to get a color value.
# The colours are a transition r - g - b - back to r.
if pos < 0 or pos > 255:
r = g = b = 0
elif pos < 85:
r = int(pos * 3)
g = int(255 - pos * 3)
b = 0
elif pos < 170:
pos -= 85
r = int(255 - pos * 3)
g = 0
b = int(pos * 3)
else:
pos -= 170
r = 0
g = int(pos * 3)
b = int(255 - pos * 3)
return (r, g, b) if ORDER in (neopixel.RGB, neopixel.GRB) else (r, g, b, 0)
def rainbow_cycle(wait):
for j in range(255):
for i in range(num_pixels):
pixel_index = (i * 256 // num_pixels) + j
pixels[i] = wheel(pixel_index & 255)
pixels.show()
time.sleep(wait)
while True:
# Comment this line out if you have RGBW/GRBW NeoPixels
NeoPixel Jewel
EagleCAD PCB files on GitHub (https://adafru.it/ped)
Fritzing object in Adafruit Fritzing library (https://adafru.it/aP3)