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Sunday, May 29, 2022 » MORE AT FACEBOOK.COM/OCREGISTER AND TWITTER.COM/OCREGISTER
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VENUES

COURTESY OF LOS ANGELES PHILHARMONIC ARCHIVES


The Hollywood Bowl is shown in 1926, five years after the first performance in the canyon known as Daisy Dell.

From Ella to Beatles to Gustavo, a new book, box set and podcast
rewind a century of history at the Southern California institution
“Hollywood Bowl: The First 100
Years,” by Derek Traub, presents
By Kelli Skye Fadroski >> [email protected] and the orchestra performing with Gwen Stefani and text and photos of the iconic venue.
guests. The book can be purchased at laphil.com, at

T
the L.A. Phil Store at Walt Disney Concert Hall and
o commemorate the 100th season at the at the Hollywood Bowl.
Hollywood Bowl, the Los Angeles Phil- “The Hollywood Bowl is a little bit magical,” Ward
harmonic is publishing “Hollywood Bowl: said during a recent interview backstage at the venue.
The First 100 Years,” a 300-page, coffee ta- “It’s situated in a gorgeous natural environment and
ble-style book filled with rare photos and it’s an experience. You can bring a bottle of wine,
historical facts that pays homage to no- sit under this beautiful night sky and hear some of
table performances and moments in the history of the greatest music in the world. It has become a tra- A new vinyl box set includes over
the iconic venue. dition in the lives of so many families in Southern 50 classical, rock, pop and jazz
The book, which was written by the L.A. Phil’s California. There are people that have handed down performances from 1928-2021.
Derek Traub and edited by its director of humanities, their box subscriptions for generations now, so it’s
Julia Ward, and Robin Rauzi, will be available Friday,
and it coincides with the opening of the 100th sea-
really a part of people’s lives and a part of the fab-
ric of this city.” MORE INSIDE ,
son at the venue, with conductor Gustavo Dudamel HOLLYWOOD BOWL » PAGE 2 CENTENNIAL LINEUP: John Fogertye 3
Diana Ros s, The Roo ts on tap. Pag

4 5 10

BOOKS: For this geologist, Earth history BOOKS: A local author and swimmer TRAVEL: New York City hustles back to
is simpler to figure out than family history. explores a different kind of dog rescue. normal as its pandemic slowdown ebbs.

HHHH OPENS TUESDAY! MAY 31–JUNE 12


SCFTA.org
(714) 556-2787
coverstory
2 |  PLAYLIST | THE ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER >> OCREGISTER.COM
C SUNDAY, MAY 29, 2022

Hollywood Bowl
FROM PAGE 1

The Hollywood Bowl got its start in a


canyon then known as Daisy Dell in 1921,
according to the book. That was the first
time the L.A. Phil performed there, and
when Artie Mason Carter, also known as
the “mother of the Hollywood Bowl,” began
to champion the location as a permanent
home for affordable symphonic concerts
that would cost no more than a quarter.
“One of the things I was vaguely aware
of but didn’t fully realize until this book
was how the early history of the Hollywood
Bowl was so informed by really progressive
women,” Ward said. “The very early ori-
gins were a combination of city boosters
and typical city interests, but you had these
bohemian theosophist women who wanted
to do plays about all the world’s religions.”
Then there was Artie Mason Carter.
“She came out of community choruses
and she wasn’t wealthy,” Ward continued.
“She was a music teacher and just deeply
passionate about her mission. She believed
music was for everyone and should be ac-
cessible to everyone and she acted on that.
In the first few years everyone thought it
would fail, but literally penny by penny she
collected the funds and made it a success.”
The book explores decades of operas,
symphonies, ballets, theatrical produc-
tions, film screenings, comedy shows and PHOTO BY ARTHUR FAST
popular music concerts. It dives into leg- Shown newly renovated in 1945, the Hollywood Bowl takes on more of the design characteristics familiar to today’s audiences.
ends of the venue, including that of Ella
Fitzgerald, who sold out the bowl across
five decades from the 1950s to 1990s, and
conductor John Williams, who brought the
music of “Star Wars” to a live audience for
the first time. It was also the place where
the Beatles set an attendance record in
1964, selling 18,000 tickets in just hours. In
1979, it became home to one of the longest-
running music events in the area, the Play-
boy Jazz Festival, which ceased in 2019 and
is now the Hollywood Bowl Jazz Festival.
Ward said the Hollywood Bowl is def-
initely a place where every artist brings
their A-game, and there have been mo-
ments working at the venue that have
not only given her goose bumps but have
etched themselves in her memory.
“It’s amazing when there’s a single mu-
sician onstage in front of 18,000 people
COURTESY OF LOS ANGELES PHILHARMONIC ARCHIVES
and you can hear a pin drop,” she said.
“Like when Yo-Yo Ma plays the Bach Cello The Beatles perform in 1965 at the venue,
Suites, it’s just stunning. In 2014, when the where they set attendance records.
Ferguson [Missouri] protests were going
on, John Legend was here doing a tribute written and is hosted by Traub, will be
to Marvin Gaye and he came out and did available for free through podcast plat-
‘What’s Going On,’ and everybody knew forms or can be accessed at hollywood-
COURTESY OF LOS ANGELES PHILHARMONIC ARCHIVES
what that meant. There was a feeling of bowl.com/first100years starting Friday.
solidarity and being with one another in Conductor John Williams meets movie alien E.T. — aka the extraterrestrial — during a live- In each five to 10 minute episode, Traub
a space of processing and healing that you to-film performance with an orchestra at the Hollywood Bowl in 1982. shares the history of the 88-acre campus,
weren’t going to get on a couch alone at with stories pulled from an oral history
home.” set, “Hollywood Bowl 100: The First 100 cal, pop, rock, film and jazz performances of interviews and thousands of documents
The L.A. Phil will also put out, in addi- Years of Music,” which includes seven LPs at the venue between 1928 and 2021. from the venue’s archive and historical col-
tion to the book, a limited edition vinyl box featuring over 50 live recordings of classi- A 10-episode podcast series, which was lections throughout Southern California.

casinoinsider
ENTERTAINMENT

Mama is coming to Rancho Mirage ‘VICKI LAWRENCE AND MAMA:

— oh, and Vicki Lawrence is, too


A TWO WOMAN SHOW’
When: 8 p.m. Saturday
Where: The Show at Agua Calien-
te Casino Rancho Mirage, 32-250
all the time, ‘Man, you got the part, kiddo. Bob Hope Drive, Rancho Mirage
By Fielding Buck Tickets: $45-$75 plus fees
[email protected]
The mother is the nuts and bolts of the
family.’ ” Information:
Vicki Lawrence’s alter ego, Mama, has Lawrence had to rethink the character aguacalientecasinos.com
a lot to say. But it’s not likely to be about for the sitcom version, which ran 1983-
the coronavirus. 1990.
Mama is Thelma Mae Harper, a cranky “Mama from ‘Mama’s Family’ is a dis-
senior citizen that Lawrence played on tinctly different character than the one
“The Carol Burnett Show” in the 1970s that was on ‘The Carol Burnett Show.’ ”
Lawrence
and her own sitcom, “Mama’s Family,” in she said.
appears
the 1980s. “We took dramatic little slices of life
as her
Lawrence has been playing Mama live and turned them on their ear by mak-
signature
for the past 20 years, until the COVID-19 ing them silly. But when ‘Mama’s Fam-
character,
pandemic forced the cancellation of most ily’ came along it was really clear to ev-
Mama.
of her shows. erybody that Mama had to change; she COURTESY
Now she’s going out again, with a gig had to be a sitcom star. We did two shows, OF VICKI
Saturday at The Show at Agua Caliente and I shut it down. I said, ‘These aren’t LAWRENCE
Casino Rancho Mirage. funny.’ ”
In a phone interview from her Long She brought Korman in for coaching.
Beach home, Lawrence said she’s happy “He said, ‘People aren’t going to want
PHOTO BY TRACEY ROMAN
to be performing again. to come home from work every week
“The first time I did go out onstage, it Vicki Lawrence, shown in 2017, is known and sit and watch this old lady scream-
was so good to see people’s faces I just for her work on “The Carol Burnett Show.” ing at people for a half hour. She’s
started crying,” she said. “It was so nice now got to become silly. She’s got to
to see people again. That doesn’t change as much as Mama laugh. She’s got to do silly stuff.’
“I decided that Mama would come out changes, as the world is changing.” “I said, she’s never even smiled.
in a big ol’ mask and spray the audience. ‘I Lawrence’s story includes how, as an I’m not sure she can laugh.
don’t know where you people have been,’ ” Inglewood teenager in the 1960s, she was “Harvey looked at me. He
she added, assuming Mama’s Southern singing and dancing in the musical group said, ‘She is you, Vikki. You are
twang. the Young Americans and attracted Bur- Mama.’ Which is a frighten-
“So that was fun. But after I did that a nett’s attention, becoming a regular on ing thought.”
few times I decided, I don’t think I want to her show for its entire run, 1967-1978. Lawrence said she loved
remind people of COVID. Let’s just laugh. In 1973, Lawrence had a No. 1 Billboard doing sketches and musical
Let’s just forget this.” hit with “The Night the Lights Went Out numbers on “The Carol Bur-
Mama’s remarks are scripted. But Law- in Georgia,” a murder ballad written by nett Show,” but Mama was
rence, 73, said, “I think more like Mama as her husband at the time, Bobby Russell. her only recurring character.
I get older. I think you’ve reached the age She said she recorded it because nobody “I got to play a dumb
not to mince words, just say it like it is.” else had faith in it. blonde a lot, and that was al-
Lawrence calls her act a two-woman The following year Mama was born in ways fun. I remember say-
show. In the first half she comes out as a “Carol Burnett Show” sketch called “The ing to Harvey, because Har-
herself and talks about her career, much Family,” about a vicious mother bickering vey helped me so much, ‘Ev-
the way her mentor Carol Burnett did in with her daughter, Eunice. It was edgy for ery time I play this dumb girl
two recent sold-out performances at The variety shows at the time. Although Law- I get stupid for the whole
Show. Then she puts on a loud housedress rence was 24, Burnett gave her the role of week.’ I said, ‘Why is that?’
and curly gray wig and becomes Mama. Mama with co-star Harvey Korman’s en- “He said, ‘You will find
“My half of the show doesn’t change as couragement. that any part that you do
much, because it’s sort of autobiographi- “Mama was actually written for Carol, really well is a part of you.’
cal,” Lawrence said. “I think it’s all of the and Eunice was the character that spoke To which I said, ‘How come
things that people would ask me if I were to her. So I just consider Mama yet an- you’re so good in drag?’ I never
to do questions and answers, like Carol. other gift from Carol. Harvey said to me did get a good answer from him.”
SUNDAY, MAY 29, 2022 SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA NEWS GROUP | PLAYLIST   | 3
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MUSIC

PHOTO BY DUSTIN DOWNING


The Hollywood Bowl kicks off its official season Friday with a program that includes “Centennial Overture,” an orchestral piece written for the venue by film composer John Williams.

Hollywood Bowl centennial lineup set


Gwen Stefani, Billie OPENING NIGHT AT THE BOWL
Eilish, Questlove and, With: Gwen Stefani, Gustavo Du-
damel and the L.A. Philharmonic
of course, the L.A. Phil plus guests
When: 8 p.m. Friday
By Kelli Skye Fadroski Where: Hollywood Bowl, 2301 N.
[email protected] Highland Ave., Los Angeles
Tickets: $39-$99 at hollywood-
Following a shortened season bowl.com
with a limited capacity in 2021
due to the COVID-19 pandemic,
the Los Angeles Philharmonic He’s also singled out the Mu-
returns to the Hollywood Bowl sical Encounters show on Aug.
this year to celebrate the venue’s 2, which will feature Dudamel,
100th season, with multiple per- multi-instrumentalist Esperanza
formances led by music and ar- Spalding, members of Youth Or-
tistic director Gustavo Dudamel. chestra Los Angeles and the En-
“The Holly wood Bowl, it cuentros Orchestra, which fea-
changed my life completely,” Du- tures musicians from all over
damel said during a recent inter- the world.
view backstage at the venue. The Other highlights include Ricky
native of Venezuela came to the Martin with the L.A. Phil on July
Hollywood Bowl for the first time 22-23, John Fogerty on July 30,
in 2005 as a guest conductor, and a-Ha with the Hollywood Bowl
in 2009 he signed on as the mu- Orchestra and conductor Thomas
sic director. Wilkins on July 31, Diana Ross on
“I got this wonderful gift, and Aug. 26-27, Duran Duran on Sept.
that was another family,” he con- 9-11, Pink Martini on Sept. 14,
tinued. “A family of creativity, of RICH FURY — GETTY IMAGES and Grace Jones with Chvrches
beauty, of art, of music and all of Grammy Award-winning singer-songwriter Gwen Stefani will help deliver the pop portion of Friday’s season- on Sept. 25.
that. We have lived many wonder- opening show alongside Gustavo Dudamel and the Los Angeles Philharmonic. The Hollywood Bowl will host
ful projects. We are still crossing Juneteenth: A Celebration of
a pandemic and we had to stop Freedom on June 19 under the di-
playing music with an audience, rection of multi-instrumentalist
but then coming back now, it’s like Adam Blackstone and The Roots
a renaissance and everything feels drummer Questlove; the event
new again with this wonderful fla- will feature performances by
vor.” Earth, Wind & Fire; The Roots;
Lucky Daye; Robert Glasper;
Now and Gwen Billy Porter; Mickey Guyton; and
While the venue has already Re-Collective Orchestra, the first
hosted some outside events, the performance by an all-Black sym-
L.A. Phil’s batch of shows officially phony orchestra at the venue.
launches Friday with a stacked
evening of music that includes Fireworks, Valkyries
Dudamel and the orchestra per- and $1 tickets
forming “Centennial Overture,” a
piece written by movie composer Films, and soundtracks played
and frequent Hollywood Bowl live with screenings, have been
performer John Williams for the a summer staple at the venue
anniversary. There will also be an for decades. That continues this
appearance by Italian ballet star year with John Williams and Da-
Roberto Bolle and musicians from vid Newman conducting the L.A.
Youth Orchestra Los Angeles. Phil for Maestro of the Movies:
Novena Carmél will deliver a Celebrating John Williams at 90
set with dance trio Let It Happen, on Sept. 2-4. The Black Movie
followed by singer-songwriter Soundtrack program also returns
and No Doubt frontwoman Ste- for a fourth year with bassist
fani, who will join Dudamel and Marcus Miller leading the house
the L.A. Phil to perform solo ma- band along with the Hollywood
terial and No Doubt hits includ- ROY ROCHLIN — GETTY IMAGES
Bowl Orchestra on Aug. 24.
ing “Don’t Speak” and “Hollaback At the July Fourth Fireworks
Girl.” Putting their traditional ri- The Roots’ Questlove will serve as music director for Juneteenth: A Celebration of Freedom on June 19 with Spectacular, Steve Martin and
valry aside for the evening, the Earth, Wind & Fire; The Roots; Lucky Daye; Robert Glasper; Killer Mike; Billy Porter; and more. Martin Short with the Steep Can-
UCLA Bruin and USC Trojan yon Rangers and Jeff Babko will
marching bands will perform to- perform with the L.A. Phil, led
gether for the first time ever. And, by Thomas Wilkins, on July 2-4.
of course, there will be a massive A concert July 27 pays homage
fireworks finale. to legends that have performed
Stefani joins a long list of art- at the venue as Eilish, Blondie’s
ists who have collaborated with Debbie Harry and others salute
the L.A. Phil on popular music ar- Peggy Lee and Frank Sinatra.
rangements. The first pop star to Going back to one of the ear-
perform with the orchestra was liest performances ever at the
Frank Sinatra in 1943. In recent Hollywood Bowl, Dudamel has
years, Broadway star Cynthia Er- teamed with director Yuval Sha-
ivo, R&B singer-songwriter and ron and an all-star cast for The
multi-instrumentalist H.E.R. and Valkyries, a celebration of the
singer Christina Aguilera have music of German composer Rich-
teamed with the orchestra, and ard Wagner that includes “Ride
L.A.’s Billie Eilish collaborated for of the Valkyries” and “Magic Fire
her Disney+ concert film, “Hap- Music” on July 17.
pier Than Ever: A Love Letter to Dudamel said he wanted to ex-
Los Angeles,” which was released STEPHANE DE SAKUTIN — GETTY IMAGES pand upon the venue’s $1 Tuesday
last year. Dudamel is a fan of $1 tickets, and Thursday ticket offerings for
Dudamel said it brings him joy which will be available for L.A. some classical concerts; the pro-
to be able to work with these art- ETHAN MILLER — GETTY IMAGES Philharmonic performances July gram, which has expanded this
ists and give audiences a taste of Latin singer-songwriter Ricky Martin brings his show July 22-23. 12 and 14, Aug. 4 and Sept. 15. year, sets aside a limited number
classical music. of $1 seats on some evenings, be-
“We celebrate breaking the ful, beautiful and unique perfor-
ward to all of the performances from Los Angeles to Paris,” he cause “music and the arts are for
walls of thinking that classical mances. When I see a new audi- this year, but he’s most excited said, referring to his role as mu- everyone.” Available programs
music is in one box and another ence, it feels amazing because ev-
about bringing the Paris Opera sic director for the Paris Opera. this season include “The Music
type of music is in another box,” ery reaction, every applause is so
Ballet to the venue for the first “It’s wonderful we’re having the of Leonard Bernstein” on July 12
he said. “No, I really believe that genuine. and you how they receive
time, with pianist Jean-Yves chance to bring the ballet, one of and 14, The Splendor of Saint-
music is one. We have the oppor- the music. It’s incredible.” Thibaudet, on July 20-21. the most important ballet com- Saëns on Aug. 4, and Lang Lang
tunity to connect with these won- “It’s important for me as a mu- panies in the world, to the cel- Performs Disney on Sept. 15. The
derful artists and learn and share Summer highlights sic director also in Paris to create ebration of this 100th anniver- tickets are sold on a first come,
ideas and create these wonder- Dudamel said he’s looking for- an artistic and cultural bridge sary.” first served basis.
books+authors
4 |  PLAYLIST | SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA NEWS GROUP
C SUNDAY, MAY 29, 2022

Excavating
FIRST PERSON

my buried past
A SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA SITE LOOMS LARGE IN PERSONAL JOURNEY
By Lauret Savoy
the fastest on the continent. But as they grow,
Correspondent
they weather away, grain by grain, the residue
carried downward to spread around their base
My book “Trace: Memory, History, Race, and like a fallen skirt. The daily business here is up-
the American Land” (Counterpoint Press) be- lift and erosion, mountain making and decay.
gan as a struggle to come to terms with ques- The nearby Devil’s Punchbowl consists of
tions that have lingered since my childhood — sandstone and conglomerate, once sands and
about my origins, about my place, about what pebbles of ancient mountain streams that flowed
it means to inhabit this land and to be a citizen millions of years ago, now upended into rocky
of this nation. tablets.
Early on, the mountains, coast and quality What to take from this?
of light of Southern California imprinted on Each grain, each pebble embedded in Punch-
me, the only child of older parents who had mi- bowl rock began as detritus from the denuding
grated westward — my father searching for op- of ancestral highlands. Now-vanished cascades
portunity, my mother following without much once conveyed sand and gravel down now-van-
question. ished mountains. If you and I were to examine
I, though, had questions. the pieces, consider their texture and makeup,
I grew up in a family largely silent about its we could deduce much about their places of ori-
past: How my ancestors — from Africa, from Eu- gin, about climate through time. But the Punch-
rope and from Indigenous America — converged bowl as a place of tilted rock also means later
in me seemed beyond reach. Even though, as shifting and deforming. Earthquake after earth-
an Earth historian, I could track the continent’s quake dragged and shoved this terrain against
deep past from rocks and fossils, the traces of the San Gabriel Mountains like a crumpled car-
my own family’s generations seemed eroded and pet shoved into a wall.
PHOTO BY KRIS BERGBOM
lost. Origin and material source. Warping dis-
Was my family’s past lost to the ages? I won- Author, educator and former Southern California placement. We can still detect both kinds of
dered if my work reading the land’s history could resident Lauret Savoy compares her search for provenance even though most of what once ex-
help me fathom a human past on the land, so family history to her academic field, geology, with isted has long since eroded away.
I’d like to tell you a little about my path to un- the San Gabriel Mountains’ Devil’s Punchbowl a What of us? What of who we are is owed to
derstanding. metaphor for its many components and layers. memories of blood or culture, custom or circum-
Sand and stone are Earth’s memory. Each of stance? To hardness? What makes an individual
us, too, is a landscape inscribed by memory and in a sequence of generations?
by loss. At a young age, I began to hope that de- These questions simmered on my drive east
spite such wounds, a sense of wholeness could from the Punchbowl. June edged toward its lon-
endure. That each of us might possess a hard- gest days as I followed Pacific-bound streams to
ness — not harshness, not severity, but the qual- their source, then across the Continental Divide.
ity of stone or sand to retain some core though It did seem easier to piece together the geologic
broken again and again. history of almost any place on Earth than to
This internal struggle led me on many jour- recover my ancestors’ past. Easier to construct
neys across a continent and time to understand a plausible narrative of a long-gone mountain
how the country’s ever-unfolding history has range from the remnant pieces than to recognize
marked the land, this society and a person: the the braiding of generations into a family. Than
twisted terrain within the San Andreas Fault to know my parents’ reasons for turns taken.
zone. The Grand Canyon’s rim. A South Caro- •••
lina plantation. An island in Lake Superior. “In- The past-to-present that we all emerge from is
dian Territory” and Black towns in Oklahoma. broken and pitted by gaps, not unlike the frag-
The U.S.-Mexico border and U.S. capital. Na- mented annals of Earth history. For me, these
tional parks, burial grounds, even the names gaps grew from many things. From centuries of
this land wears. omissions and erasures. From losses of language
Once, on a journey to the Devil’s Punchbowl in and voice. From dispossession and forced servi-
the San Gabriel Mountains, I began to see how tude. From complex dimensions of lives flattened
the structure, materials, textures and history of and distorted by the weight of ignorance and
Southern California’s rugged landscapes offered stereotype. From public narratives that still dis-
metaphors to ponder the deposition and erosion member who “we the people” are to each other
of human memory, the fragmentation and dis- and to this land.
placement of human experience. And for you? What of your own life, the lives
In “Trace,” I write about this ancient yet dy- of your family? I ask each of you, please, to think
namic landscape near the San Gabriel Moun- about your own origins and ancestors, to pon-
tains and its lessons for a searching soul: der your relationships with the past to present
Steeply tilted sandstone ledges hundreds of sand grain roll, bounce and be carried aloft. on this land. Our stories will differ — yet this
feet high rim the Punchbowl, a “geologic curios- Long-avoided questions emerged as the current richness of experience is so vital to understand-
ity” within the San Andreas Fault zone. Fluent nudged me downstream with its sediment. I was ing who we are.
and patient in its work, the small stream drain- 5 years old when last at the Devil’s Punchbowl, Recognizing the nature of, and reasons be-
ing the rocky bowl gathers and reworks pieces on a picnic with my mother and father. Decades hind, silences and gaps is as important as gath-
of the cliffs and abutting San Gabriel Mountains later the cliffs and basin still fit within memo- ering the pieces found. In “Trace,” I begin this
today as it has done through centuries of days. ry’s frame, satisfying a wish to feel sun-warmed reckoning to re-member.
It is a tactile reminder that here is a land of pro- sandstone and this stream’s grainy flow. But per-
cess and response. Water’s motive forces, from haps I also returned to reach beyond memory Lauret Savoy is a writer and the David B.
cloud to creek — the forces of weathering and to some origin, to some direction. That 5-year- Truman Professor of Environmental Studies
erosion — and abrasive, shuddering movements old had imagined these waters flowed from the and Geology at Mount Holyoke College.
along bounding faults shaped and continue to beginning of the world ... . “Trace” won the American Book Award from
reshape the cliffs and basin. What one might The San Gabriel Mountains rise to 10,000 the Before Columbus Foundation and the
perceive as timeless is but one frame of an end- feet, jutting high above Los Angeles and the ASLE Creative Writing Award. It was also a
less geologic film. Mojave Desert. Between peaks and city basin finalist for a PEN American Award and Phillis
I descended through stands of pinyon, man- lies the sharp-turning hinge of a geologic trap Wheatley Book Award, as well as shortlisted
zanita and mountain mahogany to wade the door hidden by alluvium, freeways and sprawl. for the William Saroyan International Prize
cooling water. To watch grain after entrained These mountains continue to lift at rates among for Writing and Orion Book Award.

GETTY IMAGES
Devil’s Punchbowl in Angeles National Forest has rugged sandstone formations built up, torn down and twisted by the forces of the past and present: water, tectonics, accretion.
SUNDAY, MAY 29, 2022 SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA NEWS GROUP | PLAYLIST   | 5
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INTERVIEW

Sit! Fetch! Prevent drowning!


Long Beach swimming legend Lynne Cox has fun with water rescue dogs, but her message goes deeper
By Richard Guzman
[email protected]
Lynne Cox is a bestsell-
ing author and world-re-
nowned open-water swim-
mer who has been setting
records since she was a
teenager. So when Cox hap-
pened to see a video online
of another extreme athlete
like herself leaping out of a
helicopter to rescue a swim-
mer in a lake, she was fasci-
nated by the skills and cour-
age it took.
And it was all the more
fascinating for the Long
Beach resident because this
athlete was a dog.
The furry, black New-
foundland is one of the
brave members of the
Scuola Italiana Cani Sal-
vataggio, or Italian School
of Rescue Dogs, which work
alongside the Italian Coast
Guard to rescue swimmers.
“I really wanted to find
out how these dogs were
trained, how they became
such elite athletes,” said
Cox, who besides being a
world-class extreme swim-
mer is an accomplished
author who has written COURTESY OF LYNNE COX
six other books, includ- Elite swimmer and author Lynne Cox bobs in Long Beach’s Alamitos Bay with a friend’s
ing “Swimming to Antarc- dog. Cox has just released her seventh book, “Tales of Al: The Water Rescue Dog.”
tica,” a story that recounts
her experience in frigid wa- dogs and swimming and “She was 2 years old and letes that Cox wanted to re-
ters; and “Grayson,” about about courage and over- she was sniffing me and lay in her book.
a baby gray whale that got coming obstacles,” she said. wagging her tail. She was “Watching this process
lost near Seal Beach. And Cox, who was born in really excited to see me,” of members of the school
now, she’s written about Boston, grew up in Los Cox said. working with her, I realized
these canine athletes in Alamitos and now lives in Cox was able to jump in they solved a great mystery
her latest book, “Tales of Long Beach. She first be- the water and help train and figured out new ways to
Al: The Water Rescue Dog.” came known as an extreme the dogs as well, sometimes approach Al that were suc-
“It was curiosity, initially, open water swimmer when playing the victim for the cessful,” she said.
and then I realized there in 1972, at age 15, she set the dogs to rescue. But while “It was all about creativ-
was a story that emerged record for the fastest cross- Al was a perfectly friendly ity and thinking differently
from the experience,” said ing of the English Channel dog, she was not the ideal and I admired that. Instead
Cox, who spent about two from Britain to France: less rescue pupil at the begin- of thinking everyone needs
weeks at the Italian school than 10 hours. ning of her training. to train the same way, I
getting to know the dogs. She set several other open “I don’t want to give away think that everyone isn’t
In the book, she focuses on water records through- the whole story but Al was the same and people need
a brown female Newfound- out her career but is per- not the quickest learner, ac- to train differently,” she
land named Al who was just haps best known for her cording to everyone around said. “Through that they
starting her training at the 1987 swim across the Ber- her, and she didn’t seem to can reach higher levels.”
elite school when Cox vis- ing Strait in 38-degree wa- be understanding of what And even if the book
ited 10 years ago or so. ter from Alaska to the So- she was being asked to do. doesn’t inspire readers to
But while Al’s journey to viet Union. And she seemed to be very jump into frigid waters, she
becoming an rescue dog is in the water at Long Beach’s an inspirational guide for For her latest book, she easily distracted,” Cox said. thinks Al’s story is relatable
the thread that binds the Belmont Pool. It’s also a other athletes. decided to focus on Al af- But Al’s unique journey in many ways.
story, the book is also part travel and food story, since “It’s more than a story ter she met her on her first to becoming an elite res- “I just want people to feel
memoir as Cox writes about she writes about the Italian just about Al and about the day in Italy to check out the cue dog offered an impor- happy and be inspired by
her own early experiences cuisine she ate there, and is school; it’s more about other school. tant lesson for other ath- it,” she said.

INTERVIEW

Time travel time


Emma Straub makes a foray into fantasy to tip her hat
to her author dad and father-daughter relationships
By Stuart Miller
Correspondent
A If there’s one thing I know for sure,
it’s that he is going to die someday;
he’s not going to escape that. Neither are
any of the rest of us. So I didn’t feel like I
Emma Straub is 42 and lives a full life: was cursing him. In fact, it feels so mirac-
She and her husband have two young chil- ulous that he lived through the writing of
dren and own an independent bookstore the book and that he’s here still. I feel so
in Brooklyn, and she has written her sev- grateful.
enth book, “This Time Tomorrow.”
But Straub knows that in the book
world she still to some extent lives in her
father’s shadow: Peter Straub has written
QWereact?
you worried about how he’d re-

more than two dozen horror and fantasy


books, most notably, “Ghost Story,” “Shad-
owland,” “Koko” and his collaborations
A I talked to him about it a bit as I was
writing, but he wasn’t in a state that
he totally got what I was doing. When I
PHOTO BY MELANIE DUNEA
In Emma Straub’s “This Time Tomorrow,” a woman whose father is dying travels back in
with his friend Stephen King, “The Talis- gave him the book for the first time, he time determined to vanquish regret while knowing her actions could change her present.
man” and “Black House.” was still foggy. But he has now read it two
So when Peter Straub needed heart sur- or three times. I wasn’t nervous to give it minded me of Colson Whitehead’s post- school. So I do feel what Alice feels, won-
gery during the 2020 pandemic, it not only to him in the way people who write auto- 9/11 essay about the city and its constant dering if I’ve moved forward and grown as
shook his daughter, it inspired her. “This biographical things often are; his whole change. Was that on your mind at all? a human.
Time Tomorrow” is, at its heart, a book existence as my dad was proof he would
about father-daughter relationships and
about the acceptance of loss — but as a
tribute to her dad, Emma Straub makes it
be fine with it. Fiction was where he
worked through things, and writing was
how he did it. So I knew he’d understand.
A Yes. His book “The Colossus of New
York” is one of my all-time favor-
ites and that’s what I wanted to cap-
Q What was it like traveling back in
time to capture the emotional swings
of teenage life?
her first foray into the supernatural. He did; he loved it. ture — that feeling of being a New Yorker
In the novel, Leonard Stern, who is re-
vered for his one novel about time-travel-
ing brothers, is lying in a Manhattan hos- Q Did writing during the pandemic in-
form the sense of loss and the nostal-
and the accumulation of layers as Alice
turned back a clock on her memories. I
also thought about Paula Fox’s “Desperate
A I love teenagers and writing them be-
cause everything is so close to the sur-
face and so life and death because you’re
pital near death. His daughter Alice is gia for the past that simultaneously infuse Characters,” which captured the feeling of doing everything for the first time. In my
on the verge of turning 40 and her life is the book? walking around New York at night. That mind that all still feels quite recent to me,
stuck in neutral; she’s mourning all the was such a rich and meaningful part of although I don’t know what it will be like
conversations she never got to have with
Leonard. Suddenly, however, Alice falls
through the looking glass, finding herself
A Yes, 100%. The pandemic made this
an irresistible book to live inside. I
was stuck in my house except for visiting
my life as a teenager and as a parent, and
during the pandemic that was something
I could not do, go walking around the city
when my own children are teenagers.
Also, I’m a hoarder, so I have all my di-
aries. There are hundreds of pages of me
back in 1996 at age 16 again. Alice strug- my father in the hospital and I was stuck for two hours with a friend. But I could do pining over whomever, so I could access
gles to make the most of revisiting the in this terrifying moment where everyone it in the book. those feelings quite easily.
past even as she must negotiate how it was afraid to go outside.
changes the present. The result is simul-
taneously a light and entertaining comic
romp and a poignant exploration of what
I’ve always been really hesitant to write
about my New York City, but being stuck
in my house with my very loud children,
Q sively, but as someone with a family, a Qies?
Alice must learn to stop living pas-

bookstore and a collection of novels, you’re


Favorite time travel books and mov-

we can change and what we must accept,


especially when it comes to family.
Emma Straub spoke recently by video
I really wanted to be able to go out and
I wanted my city back. Not just my 2020
city but my city, which is the ’80s and ’90s
clearly not letting life pass you by. How
did you connect to her? A “Peggy Sue Got Married,” even though
I didn’t find the ending satisfying.
“Back to the Future,” of course, and “Bill &
about showing her father the novel, writ-
ing during the pandemic and sharing her
favorite time travel books and movies.
of the Upper West Side. I couldn’t go back,
of course, but I had so many conversations
with friends from childhood about what
A If I interacted with my 16-year-old
self, she’d feel pretty happy. I’ve done
OK by her. But I live a four-minute walk
Ted’s Excellent Adventure.”
For books, “Kindred” was amaz-
ing. Don’t tell Steve but I didn’t read
This interview has been edited for length we remembered. It made me so happy. De- from my parents and my kids go to the “11 / 22 / 63,” although I thought the adapta-
and clarity. spite the fact that I cried a lot while writ- school I went to, so all day long I’m in- tion was really good.
ing the book, it was so much fun to write. teracting with people who knew me as a All these stories underlined for me how

Q Were you at all superstitious about


writing about a dying father while
your own father was so sick? QThe sense of viewing one New York
laid over another, older version re-
child or teenager, meaning I do feel like
I live in this tiny, tiny bubble: my house,
my parents’, my bookstore, my children’s
steeped I was in time travel already, and
that gave me a sense of permission to do
my own thing.
eat+drink
6 |  PLAYLIST | SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA NEWS GROUP
C SUNDAY, MAY 29, 2022

HOLIDAY RECIPES

PHOTOS BY YAKIR LEVY


Apple noodle kugel, left, gets its dairy contributions from cream cheese and cottage cheese, while savory Mediterranean vegetable galette is made with cream cheese dough and feta.

Creamy apple noodle kugel 2. Preheat oven or toaster oven to 300 de-
Yield: 8 servings grees. Line a baking sheet with parchment

HAVE A VERY
paper. Place tortillas on baking sheet and
INGREDIENTS brush very lightly with oil. Bake 10 minutes

dairy
6 ounces wide egg noodles or until crisp but not burned.
Vegetable oil for drizzling 3. Spread ricotta mixture on baked tortillas.
4 ounces cream cheese, softened 4. Top with tangerine segments on outer
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons milk, whole or edge and a ring of strawberry slices and
low-fat, warmed blueberries.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus 5. Garnish with remaining 1 teaspoon
more for greasing tangerine zest. If you like, cut with a pizza
1/2 cup small curd cottage cheese, regular cutter.
or low-fat
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar Mediterranean vegetable galette
1 teaspoon vanilla extract Yield: 4 servings
1 teaspoon cinnamon, divided INGREDIENTS
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt Cream cheese pie dough:
3 large eggs, beaten 2 cups all purpose flour

S H AV U O T
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and 1/2 teaspoon salt
diced small 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
Berry compote: 12 tablespoons (6 ounces) butter, chilled
1 cup quartered strawberries and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 cup blueberries 1/2 cup (4 ounces) cream cheese, chilled
2 tablespoons sugar and cut into small pieces
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
Sweet and savory dishes are thick 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar or rice
vinegar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
PROCEDURE
with cheese, sour cream and more 3 tablespoons water
Filling:
2 Chinese eggplants, sliced about 1/3 inch
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees with oven thick
rack in center. Butter an 8-inch glass bak- By Faye Levy and Yakir Levy >> Correspondents 2 red bell peppers, cut in strips
ing dish.
1/2 red onion, cut in quarter slices

W
2. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Boil
egg noodles for 5 minutes until softened e love the creamy specialties of Shavuot, which begins 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
but still a little firm. Drain, drizzle with a Salt and freshly ground pepper
little vegetable oil and toss.
this year on Saturday evening.
1/2-3/4 cup crumbled feta cheese
3. In a large bowl beat together cream Shavuot commemorates the receiving of the Torah Fresh oregano leaves or dried oregano, for
cheese, milk and butter with a mixer. Add by Moses and the Hebrews at Mount Sinai. It is said that the an- sprinkling
cottage cheese, sugar, vanilla, 1 teaspoon Sesame seeds, for sprinkling
cinnamon, salt and beaten eggs and stir cient Israelites avoided meat the day before this important event,
until well combined. Gently fold in noodles PROCEDURE
and diced apples. and that was the origin of the holiday’s custom of serving dairy 1. Pie dough: In a large bowl, place the
4. Pour mixture into baking dish. Sprinkle foods. Some attribute this tradition to the season, as the holiday flour, sugar, salt and baking powder and mix
with remaining 1 teaspoon cinnamon. with a fork.
5. Bake kugel for 40 minutes. Cover with
occurs during the time of year when cows, goats and sheep give 2. Add butter and cream cheese and, with
foil and bake for 5 minutes until center is plenty of milk. clean hands, quickly crumble the mixture
set and top is golden brown. Cool at least until it looks like coarse meal with some
10 minutes. Cut in squares to serve. When I was growing up, I always looked forward to my moth- small peas in it.
6. Berry compote: Combine berries, sugar er’s Shavuot apple noodle kugel with cottage cheese. Now I make 3. Sprinkle vinegar and water over mixture
and lemon juice in a small saucepan. Bring and mix with a fork or your fingers.
to a boil over medium heat. Cook over an even richer version that includes cream cheese and butter. 4. Lightly squeeze and press dough until it
medium-low heat until berries started to Cream cheese also enriches our lemony blueberry muffins. We holds together. Form into a ball or rectan-
break down, about 7 minutes. Stir in lemon gle. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for about
zest and vanilla. Serve cold or at room tem- use ricotta cheese in a quick and easy fruit tart on a tortilla base. an hour.
perature, with the kugel. For a savory Shavuot pastry, a top choice of ours is a Mediter- 5. Filling: Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Arrange sliced vegetables in one layer in
Blueberry lemon muffins ranean vegetable galette with a flaky cream cheese dough. We fill a roasting pan. Drizzle with olive oil and
sprinkle with salt. Bake for 20 minutes or
Yield: 12 muffins it with roasted eggplant and roasted peppers, and for a double- until tender. Sprinkle with pepper. Cool to
INGREDIENTS cheese delight, we add feta. room temperature.
2/3 cup sugar 6. Divide dough in four equal pieces. Roll
2 teaspoons grated zest of Meyer lemons or each piece to roughly a 7-inch circle.
other lemons 7. Place one dough circle on a parchment-
2 cups all purpose flour covered baking sheet. Sprinkle with 1-2 ta-
2. In a small bowl rub sugar with lemon zest blespoons feta. Top with a layer of roasted
2 teaspoons baking powder Easy ricotta fruit tart vegetables, leaving a 1- to 2-inch border of
1/4 teaspoon baking soda with your fingertips until sugar is moist-
ened. Yield: 2 servings dough uncovered. Sprinkle vegetables with
1/4 teaspoon salt 1-2 tablespoons feta and a little oregano.
3. In a medium bowl whisk together flour, INGREDIENTS
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) butter, softened baking powder, baking soda and salt. 8. Fold in and pleat edges of dough over
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) cream cheese, 1 cup ricotta cheese filling, leaving an opening in center where
4. Beat butter and cream cheese with mixer 2 tablespoons tangerine juice
softened until soft. Add sugar and beat until light filling shows. Repeat with remaining dough
2 large eggs and smooth. Beat in eggs one by one, then 2 teaspoons grated tangerine zest, divided and filling.
2 tablespoons Meyer or other lemon juice lemon juice, yogurt and vanilla. 2 8-inch low-carb or regular flour tortillas 9. Lightly brush edges of dough with water
5. Mix in dry ingredients, then dried and Grapeseed or vegetable oil (for brushing) and sprinkle with sesame seeds.
3/4 cup whole milk yogurt
fresh blueberries with rubber spatula. 2 seedless tangerines, divided in segments 10. Refrigerate galettes for about 20 min-
1 teaspoon vanilla extract utes. Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
1/2 cup dried blueberries 6. Divide among muffin cups and sprinkle 6-8 strawberries, stemmed, thinly sliced
with pine nuts. 16-20 blueberries 11. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce oven
1 cup fresh blueberries temperature to 375 and bake for 15 minutes
2 tablespoons pine nuts 7. Bake 18-23 minutes until tops are golden PROCEDURE
and a thin knife inserted in a muffin comes more or until golden brown. Serve warm or
PROCEDURE out clean. 1. In a small bowl, combine ricotta, tan- at room temperature.
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Put liners gerine juice and 1 teaspoon tangerine zest.
8. Cool on a rack for 5 minutes, and remove Refrigerate. Faye Levy is the author of “Faye Levy’s
in 12 muffin cups. from pan. International Jewish Cookbook.”

Blueberry lemon muffins, left, contain cream cheese, butter, yogurt and pine nuts, while this easy ricotta fruit tart requires only the simplest of cooking.
SUNDAY, MAY 29, 2022 SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA NEWS GROUP | PLAYLIST   | C 7

QUICK FIX RESTAURANTS

So much more New items join menus


than crackers
and cheese at local fast food chains lemonade.
By Cathy Thomas By Fielding Buck
Correspondent [email protected]
Availability: Seasonal
Information: dunkindonuts.com
Roxie has been my pal for After selling roast beef sand-
decades. We attended the wiches for nearly 60 years, Arby’s Farmer Boys
same high school and col- is striving to make burger history. Item: Parmesan-crusted sourdough
lege. She became the long- The chain is dabbling in wa- cheeseburger
time editor of Teen maga- gyu for its first-ever burger.
Description: A beef patty, bacon,
zine and generously gave It’s one of several new menu items
cheese and avocado between two
me my first writing gig, a in quick service restaurants. Here’s
slices of Parmesan-encrusted sour-
story about how to make a sampling of what’s out there.
dough bread.
a giant cookie that looked
like a pizza. It was topped COURTESY OF BURGER KING Availability: Through June 6
with sugary fake pepperoni Availability is limited for Burger Information: farmerboys.com
and grated white chocolate King’s Cheesy Breakfast Melts.
“cheese.” Imagine. PHOTO BY CATHY THOMAS
Miguel’s Jr.
Now retired and liv- Wine-soaked cherries Item: Fiery Habanero Hot Sauce
ing in California’s Central of American cheese on toast.
(no cooking necessary) and Description: This housemade con-
Coast wine country, Rox re- Availability: Limited time diment is featured on a special menu
slices of white cheddar top
mains an avid home cook. that includes crisp chicken tacos,
She shares recipes with
these crackers. Dunkin’ chicken taquitos and Garbage Burri-
me from time to time, and Items: Cornbread doughnuts, tos. But it can be added to anything
it was one of our culinary white cheddar cheese, Munchkin Donut Hole Treats, tomato on the menu or ordered on the side,
chat sessions that led me to whole or slices, see cook’s pesto grilled cheese, Mango Pine- according to a news release.
a great little cookbook, “100 notes apple Dunkin’ Refresher
COURTESY OF ARBY’S Description: Dunkin’s summer menu
Availability: Through July
Perfect Pairings,” by Jill Crackers for serving
Silverman Hough (Wiley, Cook’s notes: I often sub- Arby’s enters the hamburger fray includes several new items. Among Starbucks
$16.95). One of her recom- stitute a variety of Spanish with a sandwich whose patty is them are cornbread doughnuts and Items: Chocolate cream cold brew,
mendations from the book cheeses for the white ched- about half wagyu beef. cornbread bites shaped like dough- lime-frosted coconut bar
was for white cheddar with dar. My supermarket carries nut holes, a grilled cheese sandwich
wine-soaked cherries and with white cheddar on sourdough Description: These items were
a 5-ounce pack of sliced
herbs, an easy-to-prepare Spanish cheese: manchego, Arby’s with oven-roasted tomatoes and a rolled out with the chain’s summer
appetizer that is great for Iberico and queso de cabra. Item: Deluxe Wagyu Steakhouse nut-free pesto spread; and a mango menu. The cold brew is described as
entertaining at home, pic- Burger pineapple beverage that can be having a taste similar to a chocolate
nics or an afternoon snack. PROCEDURE made with green tea, coconut milk or malt. The lime-frosted coconut bar
Description: A chain that has spe- features white chocolate chips.
1. In a medium glass or cialized in sliced roast beef for nearly
White cheddar with stain-resistant plastic 60 years has added a burger to its Availablity: Year-round, according
container, combine wine, to the company
wine-soaked cherries oil, vinegar, herbs and salt,
menu, albeit briefly. Wagyu is high-
end beef from cattle bred in Japan Information: starbucks.com
and herbs whisking to dissolve salt. that for the most part hasn’t made it
Yield: 4-6, plus leftover Add cherries and cover; Taco Bell
into quick service restaurants. Arby’s
vinaigrette-cherry mix to refrigerate two days, stirring Item: Mexican Pizza
describes its patty as “52 percent
make about 4 more servings occasionally. You can refrig- American wagyu and 48 percent Description: If you’ve noticed drive-
INGREDIENTS erate for up to one week, ground beef.” It’s cooked sous vide
using a portion for one serv- thru lines at Taco Bell have been a
1/3 cup merlot or other dry to a slightly pink center, according little longer than usual, it’s probably
ing with half of the cheese to a news release, and served on a
red wine and the other portion for a because the chain restored Mexi-
2 tablespoons extra-virgin toasted brioche bun with lettuce, can Pizza to its menu May 19 after
future serving. The oil may tomato and cheese.
olive oil stiffen in the fridge; if so, pulling it in late 2020. It’s similar to
1 tablespoon balsamic leave at room temperature Availability: Through July 31. Check a tostada, with taco filling between
vinegar for an hour or so, then stir to Arby’s website to see what locations two crisp tortillas and a topping of
combine. are serving the burger and what the cheese and tomatoes. It’s been one
1 teaspoon herbes de pricing is. of the most hyped fast foods in re-
Provence 2. Place cheese on rimmed cent memory, and the publicity blitz
plate and spoon mixture on Information: arbys.com
1/4 teaspoon salt, kosher isn’t over. Today, a musical featuring
salt preferred top. Serve with crackers on
the side. Burger King Mexican Pizza fans Dolly Parton and
2/3 cup dried sweet cher- Items: Cheesy Breakfast Melts Doja Cat will debut on TikTok.
ries, such as Bing, coarsely COURTESY OF DUNKIN’ Availability: It’s permanently back,
chopped Source: “100 Perfect Pairings,” Description: These breakfast sand-
by Jill Silverman Hough (Wiley, wiches have sausage, bacon or ham Adding ice carelessly could spill your according to Taco Bell.
8 ounces medium-sharp $16.95) with scrambled eggs and two slices Mango Pineapple Dunkin’ Refresher. Information: tacobell.com

health+wellness
SUCCESSFUL AGING SENIOR MOMENTS

Life span, COVID, more keep Holy cow! What


choices we have
shifting the retirement picture if free of fear
Q You write a lot about retire-
ment. What’s new and what
should we be aware of? I am 68,
place, education and the home
front during each of their life
stages. And they are doing it
financial position. Older adults with
chronic health conditions continue to
be particularly vulnerable. The pan-
As rivulets of rain shed cold tears on the gar-
den window in my kitchen, I noticed that the
a recently retired businessman, again with retirement. They want demic did place a heavy emphasis strong splattering was causing an earthquake-
and want to make the most of a retirement that is more en- on technology, which left many older like effect that made the glass shelf begin to
my retirement years. Have we gaged and active as well as one adults at a disadvantage; they were on move ever so slightly.
learned anything from the tens that is filled with more new expe- the other side of the digital divide. Fi- The bovine collection that pastures on the
of millions of people who are re- riences than their parents’ retire- nally, the pandemic caused nearly 70% glass shelf of that window came alive and
tired? Many thanks. ments, and are less conservative of Americans to rethink the timing of started to do-si-do to the vibrations.
— B.J. and frugal than previous retirees. their retirement, either accelerating it Lark kitty jumped up onto the
or postponing it. According to a New counter, where she is not allowed,
HEALTH SPANS DON’T MATCH LIFE York Times article from April 20, econ- to join me in watching the show. I

A The answer is yes, we’ve learned


a lot. Research studies, observa-
tions, shared experiences and lives
SPANS >> This is the good news-bad
news story. Life expectancy has in-
creased about 30 years from 1900
omists are surprised at the number of
adults who are returning to work for
“unretirements.”
didn’t have the heart to shoo her
down. It might be the only time she
would see cows dance.
well-lived help us to continue learn- to the present — from 47 years to 77 These influences suggest a few mes- I was intrigued by what happens
ing about what makes for a quality re- years. That’s the good news. The bad sages for both older and younger peo- when you are unencumbered by dan-
tirement. We know each person expe- news is we also increased the number ple: ger. Rather than cowering in fear, as
riences this life stage differently, yet at of years older adults are living with ill- • We need to think about the im- I would during an earthquake, these guys were
the same time there are some common ness, disease and disability. Accord- plications and opportunities the long slipping and sliding to music only they heard.
threads. ing to 2019 data, average life expec- sought-after gift of increased longevity An unexpected opportunity made their earth
“The institution of retirement is go- tancy in the United States was 78.5 is providing for us and plan for them. move and they turned it into a dance. No duck
ing through a radical morphing; it’s years; 12.4 of those years were lived in • We need to know that, on average, for cover. No screaming. Just going with the
being reshaped by the successes and poor health, on average, leaving just a little over 12 years of poor health are flow.
failures of those currently retired,” 66 years of healthy living. accompanying this longer life. That One of the three-legged cows, a pink cutie who
says Ken Dychtwald, co-founder and means more effort is needed to adapt was a creamer in another life, tumbled off the
CEO of research and consulting com- RETIREMENT INCOME >> Funding for re- both our science and our lifestyles to shelf ledge toward the sink. I grabbed her just in
pany Age Wave. This radical morph- tirement typically has come from three maintain and enhance our health, fit- time and placed her back in the pasture.
ing is being influenced by trends and sources, often referred to as the three- ness and functioning. We need to If I hadn’t been there watching she would
events that surround us. Dychtwald legged stool of retirement: They are match our health span with our life likely have lost another leg or worse. But she
and Ken Cella, a principal at invest- Social Security, savings and pensions. span. (Sources: World Health Organi- fell lithely, with no expectations. Fearless, she
ment adviser Edward Jones, and their According to the report, the stool has zation, Global Health Observatory data morphed into a ballerina.
teams are authors of the recent report “become wobbly if not completely bro- repository, life expectancy and healthy Barely a day ago, slices of sun had cut through
“Longevity and the New Journey of ken.” The future of Social Security ben- life expectancy data for 2019.) the glass of that same window so brightly that
Retirement.” efits is uncertain, as fewer workers are • Finally, we need to save for lon- I had to put my sunglasses on to navigate the
Here are the trends identified in the contributing to the fund in relation to gevity beginning in our early earning kitchen. Unperturbed, the cows sunbathed con-
report. (It’s free and available at ed- the increasing number collecting bene- years, not only to survive but to opti- tentedly.
wardjones.com — search “new retire- fits. Most people are not saving enough mize that longevity bonus. They didn’t seek shade from the sun just as
ment.”) for retirement and not at the recom- Next week, we’ll learn about four they didn’t seek shelter from the rain the day
mended level of 15% of one’s income. types of retirees and what we can before. They sought opportunity. What do you
LIVING LONGER >> Most of us are aware Then there are pensions for those learn from their experiences. Stay do with unexpected shaking? You move with
of this phenomenon. What is new is lucky enough to have one. Only 16% tuned, be well and be good to our- it. How else could a cow have learned how to
that people are becoming increas- of Fortune 500 companies are offer- selves and others. dance?
ingly aware that the new longevity is ing guaranteed benefit pensions, com- Getting into the rhythm of my thoughts, I did
affecting their expectations, attitudes pared with the 25% that offered them
Helen Dennis is a nationally a slow two-step over to the stove to make tea.
and preparation for this extended life decades ago, according to the report.
recognized leader on issues of “What is the lesson here?” I wondered aloud to
stage. The 11,000 retirees surveyed Note a fourth leg of the stool is emerg-
aging and the new retirement, the tea leaves.
in the 2022 study say they intend to ing: income from work, because retir-
with academic, corporate and Maybe I’m supposed to keep seeking even if
live until age 89 and are hoping for 29 ees either need the income or they find
nonprofit experience. Contact the ground is shaking. There are still so many
years of retirement. other rewards from working. Helen with your questions and dances yet to be learned.
comments at Helendenn@gmail.
THE BABY BOOMER WAVE >> Just by their COVID-19 >> The final influencer is the com. Visit Helen at HelenMdennis. Email Patricia Bunin at patriciabunin@
sheer number, this generation has pandemic that has disrupted retirees’ com and follow her on facebook.com/ sbcglobal.net, follow her on Twitter @
changed environments of the work- health, family, their purpose in life and SuccessfulAgingCommunity PatriciaBunin and go to PatriciaBunin.com.
8 |  YOUR DAILY BREAK | SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA NEWS GROUP
C SUNDAY, MAY 29, 2022

ADVICE Bestsellers Horoscope

Friendship takes The SoCal Indie Bestseller


List for the sales week
ended May 22 is based
MASS MARKET
1. 1984: George Orwell
2. Children of Dune:
Moon Alert: Avoid shopping
or important decisions from
7-10:30 a.m. today. After that,

bizarre turn, needs on reporting from the the moon moves from Taurus
Frank Herbert into Gemini.
independent booksellers
of Southern California, the 3. The Wise Man’s Fear: Happy birthday for Sunday,
Patrick Rothfuss

social media block


California Independent May 29, 2022: You are clev-
Booksellers Alliance and 4. Animal Farm: George er, bright and communicative.
IndieBound. For an inde- Orwell Your fast mind generates lots
pendent bookstore near 5. Heretics of Dune: of ideas. You have a charming
you, visit IndieBound.org. Frank Herbert personality but are guarded
DEAR ABBY >> you aren’t. Imi- about your personal life. This
“Dana” has been tation is flattery, HARDCOVER FICTION 6. Mistborn: The Final year is a time of work, con-
my best friend but when it’s done 1. This Time Tomorrow: Empire: Brandon Sand- struction and building both
since 1995. We did to the extent that Emma Straub erson in a physical sense as well as
so many things to- it makes the role 7. Bridgerton: To Sir Phil- inner structures in your life.
gether, until she model uncomfort- 2. Sea of Tranquility:
Emily St. John Mandel lip, with Love: Julia Quinn Aries (March 21-April 19):
had gastric bypass Dear able, it is going 8. God Emperor of Dune: \*\*\*\*\* Today you have
surgery three years Abby overboard. What 3. Something Wilder: boundless energy because
Christina Lauren
COURTESY OF RIVERHEAD BOOKS Frank Herbert
ago. Mind you, Columnist Dana has been do- your ruler Mars is lined up
“This Time Tomorrow,” 9. Dune Messiah: Frank
Dana was never ing is more than 4. Time Is a Mother: by Emma Straub, is the with Jupiter in your sign. It
fat. She may have a little bit creepy. Ocean Vuong Herbert doesn’t get better than this!
top-selling hardcover 10. Cryptonomicon: Neal
been overweight, but she You stated that the two 5. The Lioness: Chris fiction release at Southern This is a day of great activity
was never morbidly obese. of you are no longer as Bohjalian Stephenson where you will work hard to
California’s independent
She never participated friendly as you were be- bookstores. TRADE PAPERBACK further your own interests
6. The Paris Apartment: and assert yourself among
in any of the fun sports I fore her surgery. To the ex- FICTION
Lucy Foley others. Tonight: talkative!
did, such as mud/obsta- tent possible, I’m suggest- 1. Book Lovers: Emily
cle course runs or fun 5Ks. ing you remove her from 7. The Midnight Library: 5. Anna: The Biography: Taurus (April 20-May 20):
Matt Haig Henry
Her lack of participation your social media plat- Amy Odell \*\*\* This might be a tricky
8. Lost and Found in 2. The Seven Husbands day, because it’s easy to fall
wasn’t due to her weight; forms, AND SO SHOULD 6. Freezing Order: A True of Evelyn Hugo: Taylor
she just said it “wasn’t for YOUR HUSBAND. Paris: Lian Dolan Story of Money Launder- into self-defeating behav-
Jenkins Reid ior where you create a poor
her.” 9. Trust: Hernan Diaz ing, Murder, and Sur-
After Dana lost some DEAR ABBY >> I recently re- viving Vladimir Putin’s 3. The Paper Palace: impression or undermine your
10. Lessons in Chemis- Miranda Cowley Heller position even though you
weight from her surgery, ceived a message from try: Bonnie Garmus Wrath: Bill Browder
4. People We Meet on don’t mean to do so. Ironi-
her mindset changed. She my 38-year-old daugh- 7. Finding Me: A Memoir: cally, you have lots of energy!
started making repeated ter telling me she no lon- HARDCOVER NONFICTION Vacation: Emily Henry
Viola Davis Make sure you channel it in
snide remarks to me about ger wants me in her life. 1. We Were Dreamers: 8. Phil: The Rip-Roaring 5. The Song of Achilles:
An Immigrant Superhero the right way. Tonight: money
my weight. I have some Due to circumstances (and Unauthorized!) Madeline Miller ideas.
joint issues that are ge- over which I had no con- Origin Story: Simu Liu Biography of Golf’s Most 6. The Netanyahus: Gemini (May 21-June 20):
netic. She said, “Maybe trol, she didn’t find out I 2. Crying in H Mart: A Colorful Superstar: Alan Joshua Cohen \*\*\*\*\* This is a fabulous
your weight doesn’t help.” was her birth father un- Memoir: Michelle Zauner Shipnuck 7. The Plot: Jean Hanff day to define goals and start
Eventually, we stopped do- til she was 13. As far as I 3. Taste: My Life Korelitz to actively pursue them, be-
9. Bad Mexicans: Race,
ing much together. know, we’ve had a good fa- Through Food: Stanley cause you have lots of energy
Empire, and Revolution 8. Klara and the Sun:
Lately she has been ther-daughter relation- Tucci to deal with others, especially
in the Borderlands: Kelly Kazuo Ishiguro
posting, “Does anyone ship. But recently, the man 4. The Palace Papers: friends and groups. You will
Lytle Hernández 9. Where the Crawdads
want to participate?” in who raised her until she Inside the House of excel at physical activity with
mud runs and 5Ks that I turned 13 died, and she 10. Mean Baby: A Memoir Sing: Delia Owens others, especially in groups or
Windsor — the Truth and of Growing Up: Selma
do, but she won’t ask me. has distanced herself from the Turmoil: Tina Brown 10. The Dictionary of in competition. Tonight: You
Many people have pointed me with no explanation. I Blair Lost Words: Pip Williams win!
out that Dana has been need to know how to han- Cancer (June 21-July 22):
copying my life for some dle this. Please help me. \*\*\*\* Because your ambi-
time now. We decided to — Shut-out Father tion to achieve is aroused
test that theory by pur- Universal Sudoku Puzzle today, you will work hard.
posely posting certain DEAR SHUT-OUT FATHER However, you want indepen-
things on Facebook. >> Your daughter has just dent authority over whatever
If we posted pictures lost the father who raised you do, because you want to
of butterflies, SHE would her during her forma- be your own boss today. This
post pictures of butter- tive years. She is griev- could make relations with
flies. If my husband posted ing. This may be her way a supervisor or boss a bit
touchy. Tonight: solitude.
an event, SHE would post of trying to cushion her-
the same event. I got a full self from the pain of los- Leo (July 23-Aug. 22):
sleeve tattoo on my left ing her other father in the \*\*\*\*\* Today you’re full
of enthusiasm! This is why
arm, and so did she, by event of your own death. Solution to last you want to make travel plans
the same tattoo artist. She Not knowing her, I can’t Sunday’s puzzle or do anything to expand your
likes things my husband offer more insight. How- horizons. You will also be
posts and even asked me ever, a way to handle this keen to defend your beliefs
“if he has a brother.” would be to communi- and your ideas about politics
The whole dynamic is cate to her that you love and religion, because today
odd. Some say imitation is her and always will, and you are bold and confident!
flattery, but I’m not flat- if she changes her mind, Tonight: popularity.
tered. More and more peo- you will always be there Virgo (Aug. 23-Sept. 22):
ple say she’s trying to be for her. Then, please, go on \*\*\*\* You will have no
me. I don’t want to be with your life. trouble protecting your own
friends with Dana any- best interests in discussions
more. Am I overreacting? Contact Dear Abby at about inheritances or how to
— Don’t Want a Twin DearAbby.com or P.O. Box share or divide something to-
69440, Los Angeles, CA day, because you are pumped
DEAR DON’T WANT >> No, 90069. © 2022 by Universal UClick with enthusiasm, confidence
and optimism! Others will
listen to you even if you
encounter disputes. Tonight:
The New York Times Crossword You are noticed.
Libra (Sept. 23-Oct. 22):
WAY OUT WEST By Daniel Mauer / Edited by Will Shortz \*\*\* You are a people
pleaser; however, today you
Daniel Mauer is a software 98 Jazz bassist Carter, who 55 Monogram in the 2016 85 Speedskater Kramer with I B M S G O B U S T P D F S S H O P will be unusually confident
engineer in Massachusetts. has appeared on more than presidential election nine Olympic medals S I S T E R S I S T E R A R I A H O P I
He started solving crosswords M O N A C O M O N A C O R A N T O M E N when dealing with friends and
with his father. Daniel and his
2,200 recordings 57 Puts away 87 Stir in L O G O N H O M A G E T E E N S partners. This is why you will
wife, Sandy, enjoy road trips, an 99 Being treated, in a way 59 Suffragist and abolitionist 89 String or integer, in F A W N S I T H K U D O P I B B
inspiration for this puzzle. 101 A whole can of worms? Abby ____ Alcott programming A L M A I C E I N L O U I E L O U I E stand your ground if someone
102 Mamas’ mamas 62 Georgia, e.g. 91 Brand with a bull in its logo
T O U R B U S A G E E X T R A E X T R A has any grievance with you.
ACROSS 106 Bug 63 One of two circling the 92 Critical warning
S O N T
E R R
A G
E L K O
H O T
H N O
S
M P
I R S
S
T
B O
E
N
T
A (A compromise might be a
1 “Meet the ____’’ (baseball 107 Bad review earth 93 Some scores in horseshoes A S A P Y E S N O T S A R H O R N E T win-win solution.) Tonight:
fight song) E T C E T E R A E T C E T E R A
108 Component of lacquer 65 Decorates deceptively 96 “My Name Is Asher ____’’ Explore!
5 Pertaining to any of five
66
S U R P R I S E S U R P R I S E
Italian popes
thinner High part of a deck 99 Offer one’s two cents C R I K E Y U S E R D O S A S S E R F
Scorpio (Oct. 23-Nov. 21):
12 110 More far out 67 Bon ____ (fashionable 100 Deprived L E V Y N T H I D E S M M A L E O
Small rodent
114 world) A R E A A A A E O N A P P A L L \*\*\*\*\* This will be a su-
18 Theme of this puzzle, 101 You usually do this lying
To be, in France
which winds its way nearly 68 One-named New Age down by yourself
N A M E
K N O C
S N A M E
K K N O C
S
K
E
R
T
I
D
N G
K N E
S
E P
A S
A
I
D
S
per-productive day, because
19 ____ Jay Hawkins, rock 2,500 miles through all the musician you’re keen to work. You have
pioneer who wrote “I Put a 103 Naval “Negative’’ V O T E F U E L D A R T C C E D

Spell on You’’
shaded squares herein 70 Mower’s trail 104 Singer O’Day
G R E C
Y O D A
O G O A
B E N D
W A Y
P E
I
O P L
R U L
E P E
E
O P L E
lots of physical energy, which
117 Wishy-washy response 74 Means of electronic 105 Bad messages to send to means whatever you do, you
20 Hardly a team player?
118 Captivate communication with
M O O R
S S N S
A R G O
A M O R
D O
W
U B L
I S E
E D O
T O
U B
T A
L E
C K
21 Nickname for 114-Across the wrong person will do with strength and
119 The Panthers of the restricted access 107 Tap-in, e.g. Answers to last Sunday’s puzzle
coined by John Steinbeck
N.C.A.A., familiarly 76 Ending with cash or front vigor! Tonight: Check your
23 Large rodents 109 140, in old Rome
finances.
120 Art in the Television Hall of 77 Self images? 110 Covid Data Tracker org.
24 Corpse ____ (morning- Fame 79 Stevenson of 1950s politics Sagittarius (Nov. 22-Dec.
after cocktail) 111 New Deal power agcy.
121 Dislikes and then some 80 They may be ridden to 21): \*\*\*\*\* This is a
25 German surname part 112 Fools are often seen at its
122 Things sometimes named victory start: Abbr. fantastic day for competitive
26 One of the Guccis after presidents 81 Some co. name endings
28 At the top 113 Peaceful, informally sports and physical athletics.
DOWN 83 Santa Monica ____, 115
29 Skip or drop southwest terminus of
Partner of only You also will enjoy fun outings
31 Down-to-earth 1 One of 50,460 in the 116 Posed for a portrait with children and entertain-
Chunnel 114-Across
32 Cool 84 Golden rule preposition ing diversions. However, your
2 Actress Barrymore, great-
35 Opposite of a breeze
aunt of Drew energy is so pumped, be
37 Instruction for some
3 Famed fountain of Rome careful about taking risks,
Thanksgiving cooking
4 Half step, in music 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 both physically or gambling.
38 “Downton Abbey’’ countess
5 Character seen on a Tonight: Cooperate.
39 Colorful natural attraction
keyboard
along 114-Across
6 Bile
18 19 20 Capricorn (Dec. 22-Jan.
43 An awful state to live in 19): \*\*\* Today you have
7 Obsequious
46 Twitch user, perhaps 21 22 23 tremendous energy for mak-
8 Sun deck?
47 Spanish : -ando or -iendo ::
ing home improvements or
English : ____ 9 “That’s my cue!’’
24 25 26 27
48 Attempt to grasp, as a 10 Actress Long winning an argument with a
complicated situation 11 Component of a bridge family member. This is be-
truss 28 29 30 31 32 33 34
49 Car-pooling inits. cause you are confident and
50 Cuisine that includes 12 Positive results of some
convinced about what you
strikes 35 36 37 38
gochujang paste want to achieve. Remember
52 “Go ahead and ask’’ 13 TV 6-year-old who attends
Little Dipper School 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 that others have their own
56 Pastis flavorer
58 Peridot, for one
14 Lead-in to “com’’ ideas, too. Tonight: Work.
15 Bit of writing on Twitter or 46 47 48 Aquarius (Jan. 20-Feb. 18):
60 Smart, say
Tinder
61 Bad stat for a QB: Abbr.
16 Natural conclusion?
\*\*\*\* You can do a lot
49 50 51 52 53 54 55
64 Left
17 Some mil. officers
today, because you are con-
65 Tall, curved attraction
19 Abbr. on many streets in fident and enthusiastic. This
along 114-Across 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63
Quebec is why your communications
69 Gear for gondoliers
20 “Holy ____!’’ with others will be positive
71 Trafficker trackers, for 64 65 66 67 68 69 70
22 Pass and persuasive, which, in
short
27 Not mainstream, for short turn, makes this a strong day
72 Legend 71 72 73 74
30 Sierra ____ for those in sales, marketing,
73 Animal in the genus Bos
31 1990s film with a famous
teaching, acting or writing.
74 Following along
wood chipper scene
75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82
75 Roux ingredient?
32 Word with a wave in Tonight: Socialize!
78 B3, nutritionally Oaxaca 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 Pisces (Feb. 19-March 20):
82 Beverage with a “New 33 Classic Camaro \*\*\*\* You are confident in
England’’ variety 90 91 92 93
34 Grant ____, northeast financial negotiations today.
83 Gone to press? terminus of 114-Across
86 Booked it 36 Kind of tape 94 95 96 97
However, your confidence will
88 Phrase one might yell at 37 $100 bill, slangily
be so strong, you must be
the screen during a horror
38 Underwriting? 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 careful. Don’t take unneces-
film sary risks in financial ventures
39 “What malarkey!’’
90 What roots are, to powers
or financial speculation. Do
40 Paid penance 106 107 108 109
92 Graffitied artistic
attraction along 114-Across 41 Site of a U.C. in the O.C. your homework. Tonight:
94 Summers in la cité 42 Muscle-bone connector 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 Cocoon.
95 ____ Austin, Biden’s 44 Verb in Poe’s “The Raven’’
secretary of defense 45 Trece menos doce 117 118 119
97 Bugs 51 Many a Hollywood worker Find Georgia Nicols
53 Brownish-yellow hue 120 121 122 horoscopes at
54 Big ____
georgianicols.com.
Universal Crossword
Edited by David Steinberg May 29, 2022
SUNDAY, MAY 29, 2022 SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA NEWS GROUP | YOUR DAILY BREAK   | 9 C

ACROSS 41 Show the 8 Bite-size 30 Thomas of


1 Garment Universal
ropes to Crossword
desserts “That Girl”
Universal
that looks Crossword
43 Excessively
Editedvirtuous
on sticks
by David Steinberg May 29, 2022
31 True up FRUMPY MIDDLE-AGED MOM
the same 9 Heros’ 32 Not to be
4
backward?
ACROSS
1 Easy to
Garment
understand
that looks
person
41 Show the
46 What
ropes has
43 rules
to
at
Excessively
8 aliases?
Bite-size
10 “So
11 Had
tasty!”
desserts
a bite
on sticks
30 discussed

37
Thomas of
36 Slowpokes
“That Girl”
31 Hot
Truedog up
Sanity and savings dwindle
as my girl’s wedding nears
the same
9 Marriott rival virtuous
school? 9 Metal
12 Heros’in 32 Keyboard
39 Not to be
backward?
14 Poem of personArabia
47 Saudi aliases?often
bronze, discussed
operators
4 Easy to 46 What has 10 “So tasty!” 36 Slowpokes
homage
understand neighbor
rules at 13 Type of
11 Had a bite 40 Bibliographic
37 Hot dog
15
9 Pet
Marriott rival 48 “It’s ___
school? 12 talk
Metal oninthe 39 list abbr.
Keyboard
14 protection
Poem of 47 Time” (beer
Saudi Arabia internet
bronze, often 41 Resistor
operators As many of you tioned the other travel insurance paid the
org.
homage slogan)
neighbor 18
13 Edmonton
Type of 40 measure
Bibliographic know, my 23-year- day that their bills, but I did start pan-
16
15 Protruding
Pet 50
48 Joltless
“It’s ___ joe hockey
talk on the 42 Street
list abbr. old daughter Curly friends all drink icking at one point that I
protection
navel Time” (beer
54 European internet
team 41 surface
Resistor
org. slogan)with 18 Party
Edmonton measure Girl is getting mar- White Claw hard might not make it home
17 In a way capital 22 at 44 Downfall ried. In a few days. seltzer, so we in time for the Big Day.
16 Protruding 50 Joltless joe hockey 42 Street
19 Change,
navel like a baguette-
54 European a club
team 45 Foray
surface So, last night I spent should get some However, here I am, all
17 the
In aConsti-
way baking
capital with 24
22 Refusals
Party at 49
44 Coup
Downfall d’___ an exciting prewed- White Claw. the wedding garlands
19 tution
Change, like competition
a baguette- 26 Some
a club 51
45 Golf
Foray targets
20 Allegation
the Consti- 57 Famous
baking 24 historic
Refusals 49 or
Coupevents
d’___
ding evening, de- As in, a LOT of are sorted out and I only
21 Word
tution before competition
last words 26 Plains
Some 51 Surmounting
52 Golf targets voting several hours White Claw. have 36 rustic center-
20 “bar”
Allegation
or 57 in
Famous
“Julius historic
homes or events
53 Greek salad to untangling fake Great. So who’s pieces to make by Satur-
21 “drink”
Word before last words
Caesar” 27 Plains
___ a tie 52 cheese
Surmounting sunflower gar- going to drink day.
“bar” or in “Julius homes 53 Greek salad lands to put on the din- all that wine? Well, OK, This is a huge occa-
23 Come
“drink”down 59 Select
Caesar” 27 (necessitate
___ a tie 54 Touch
cheeseon
23 to Earth
Come down 59 group
Select of overtime)
(necessitate 54 the
Touch headon
ner tables at her wedding I will, but still. Someone sion for me, not only be-
25 Great
to EarthBasin celebrities
group of 28 Boot up
overtime) 55 ___ carte
the head venue while watching could have mentioned cause Curly Girl is my
25 natives
Great Basin 60 Salary
celebrities 29
28 Outdoor
Boot up 55 menu
___ carte old episodes of “Father the words “White Claw” only daughter, but be-
natives
29 Social 60 boost
Salary 29 clothing
Outdoor menu
56 Upholstery Brown” and a depress- before I bought $1,800 cause when I was very
29 campaign
Social boost prize
61 Poker clothing
brand, or 56 problem
Upholstery ing movie called “Friends worth of fermented grape sick not long ago, I re-
campaign
started 61 Records
62 Poker prizefor brand,
a squirrelor 58 problem
Play for a fool With Money.” This is the juice. ally didn’t think I’d be
started 62 Records for a squirrel 58 Play for a fool
by Tarana
by Tarana later
later kind of exciting celebrity This afternoon, Curly around long enough to
Burke
Burke 63
63 War
War horse
horse PREVIOUS
PREVIOUS
Answers PUZZLE
puzzle ANSWER
PUZZLE
to yesterday’s ANSWER life I have. Girl is going to bring over see this day. (Wiping a
31 Classic 64 Wellness This movie was a the seating chart. Ap- tear away.) But, here I
game retreat downer partly because all parently I’m supposed to am, as mean as ever, and
consoles
consoles DOWN
DOWN the characters were de- sit at the “family table.” I even plan to dance to
33 Some
33 Some 1 Brownish
1 Brownish
simians pear pressed — even the rich Well, I don’t want to sit the DJ, though I’m still
simians
34 Kissing in pear
2 Person you ones — and also because with my family. I have to rather gimpy.
34 Kissing in
public, e.g., 2 Person
look up you
to I don’t have any money, see those people all the Curly Girl informed me
public,
briefly e.g., 3 look up to
___ blocker so I don’t need to watch time anyway. I want to sit a few days ago that she’d
35 briefly
Metallica 3 ___ blocker
(heart rich people cavort un- with my friends who’ve lost the list I gave her of
35 Metallica
drummer (heart
medicine)
happily with each other. flown from all over to at- dance songs I wanted the
Ulrich
drummer 4 medicine)
South Asian
36 Ulrich
Stethoscope rice variety I especially don’t have tend this event. Is that DJ to play, and I can’t
4 South
5 Venomous
Asian
36
users: Abbr.
Stethoscope rice variety any money now, because wrong? I don’t think so. help wondering if that
37 “Witness” snake I’ve just plunked down I’m doing it even if it is. was actually an accident.
users:
directorAbbr.
Peter 5
6 Venomous
Swimsuit
37 “Witness”
38 PC pioneer snake
brand
a good portion of my re- My daughter is de- She felt that she was enti-
39 director
Greenish Peter 6
7 Swimsuit
Optimist’s 5/28 © 2022 Andrews McMeel Universal
tirement account to pay manding that every- tled to pick all the songs
bluepioneer
38 PC words
brand www.upuzzles.com for this upcoming wed- one who’s coming has to for the entire event, since
39 Greenish 7 Optimist’s 5/28 © 2022 Andrews McMeel Universal ding. I hope my daughter wear black, so she can it’s “her wedding.” But I
blue words www.upuzzles.com realizes this means I’ll be shine in her white wed- pointed out to her that
5/29
Mixed Doubles by Gary Larson moving in with her when ding dress. I find this an- I’m paying for this event,
I run out of cash. noying, but I went along and she’ll be getting all
Since the wedding is in with it. She also banned the good presents from
5/29
Mixed Doubles by Gary Larson less than a week, I keep all children under the my friends, so we will be
thinking there will be age of 10, which means dancing to music that we
a point at which I stop a set of family friends like, not just songs that
spending money. But this who are important to sound like squirrels on
is simply a hallucina- me were so miffed they speed.
tion caused by too many couldn’t bring their new Besides, who doesn’t
drugs in college. Every baby, they’re boycotting like Motown and the Bea-
time I think, “OK, whew, the wedding. They’d even tles?  So after I finish
I’m done,” I realize it’s already bought match- writing this, I have to sit
going to be cold up at ing black outfits to wear. down and re-create my
her mountain venue, so I was really upset about dance list for her. Some
of course I have to order this, but I finally decided of those songs better be
the girl a fake fur shrug just to bless it and re- played this weekend. I
to wear over her wedding lease it. need my Rolling Stones.
dress so she doesn’t turn If you read last week’s Meanwhile, I just found
blue. column, you know that I out that Curly Girl’s birth
Then, there’s the li- just got stuck in London mother, who lives in an-
quor. After I’d already with my nephew, who other state, is planning
bought some 137 cases came down with a mild to show up at the wed-
of white wine, red wine, case of COVID-19, so we ding. She was invited,
sweet wine, dry wine, had to delay our flights but no one expected her
sangria and such, not home for five days. Lon- to come. Hmm. Let’s
to mention the beer, the don isn’t the worst city bring on the drama.  Stay
bride and groom men- to be stuck in, and the tuned.

Sudoku Classic TM

How to play: Each row, by David L. Hoyt


column and set of 3-by-3 Use the clues to help unscramble the
four Jumbles, one letter to each square,
5-29-22
I was watching him on
boxes must contain the to form four words. TV while I was at work, but
my boss didn’t catch me.
numbers 1 through 9 Clue:
without repetition. HRECES It made it to #1

Answers to last week’s puzzle Clue:


DMIELD Heaton show: “The ____”
?
Clue:
TGILINS Phil Dunphy could get one
THAT SCRAMBLED WORD GAME Clue: Before he got his
By David L. Hoyt and Jeff Knurek big break, this actor was
Clue: a mail carrier in Littleton,
Unscramble these Jumbles, NYCAACV Problem for the Loudons Massachusetts.
one letter to each square, Then arrange the circled letters to form the
to form six ordinary words. answer, as suggested by the above cartoon
Get the free JUST JUMBLE app • Follow us on Twitter @PlayJumble

and clue.

TRETEH Answer
Answers to 5/22/22 Jumbles: WRITER WALKER FANTASY CLIMATE
Answer: This actress, who was born in Liverpool, England in 1956, attended
the London Academy of Music and Dramatic Art.

SSALPH
c 2022 Tribune Content Agency, LLC,
You can e-mail David L. Hoyt at [email protected]. KIM CATTRALL All Rights Reserved

THAT SCRAMBLED WORD GAME TV Crossword


RFTEGO
By David L. Hoyt and Jeff Knurek
Unscramble these Jumbles,
one letter to each square,
to form six ordinary words.
Get the free JUST JUMBLE app • Follow us on Twitter @PlayJumble

LNEAGC
SKGATE
REVIDT
RAITMU
MISPRH
TIUSAH
SNIECC
Now arrange the circled letters
©2022 Tribune Content Agency, LLC to form the surprise answer, as
YNWOAH All Rights Reserved. suggested by the above cartoon.
PRINT YOUR ANSWER IN THE CIRCLES BELOW
“ ” -
SYPRAT
Now arrange the circled letters
©2022 Tribune Content Agency, LLC to form the surprise answer, as
All Rights Reserved. suggested by the above cartoon.
PRINT YOUR ANSWER IN THE CIRCLES BELOW
“ ”

Answers toAnswer:
last week’s puzzle
TETHER FORGET ATRIUM
SPLASH GASKET HIATUS
The books near the top of the
Answer:
bookcase had —
GLANCE SHRIMP ANYHOW
DIVERT SCENIC PASTRY
After they cleaned up when
HIGH “SHELF”-
Michelangelo was done painting
the ceiling, it was a —
ESTEEM MAY 22, 2022
“PRISTINE”
CHAPEL MAY 29, 2022
outandabout
10 |  PLAYLIST | THE ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER >> OCREGISTER.COM
C SUNDAY, MAY 29, 2022

TRAVEL

M ANH ATTAN
SPRINGS
BACK TO
LIFE
TED SHAFFREY — THE ASSOCIATED PRESS
Manhattan is getting its groove back as the things tourists love, like Broadway shows, restaurants, museums and shopping destinations, return to prepandemic accessibility.

Shows pack ’em in, museums


and restaurants bustle as
pandemic slowdown passes
By Julie Besonen
the precaution is logical.
The New York Times
In concert with Broad-
way League protocols, the
During the worst months Drama Book Shop also re-
of the pandemic, Manhat- quires masking. The long-
tan’s once-teeming side- time bookstore’s previous
walks were ghostly foot- location closed in 2019,
paths, but it was never a and Lin-Manuel Miranda
ghost town. Ghost towns is among the partners
are abandoned for good. who revived it last year in
But New York stalwarts a handsome new space
held fast, groping their way (266 W. 39th St.). In addi-
into the light as restaurants, tion to every play and show
bars, theaters and other ven- business biography imagin-
ues got off to wobbly starts able, there are comfy chairs
when vaccines made it feel to sink into while gazing
less fraught to venture out. overhead at designer David
And now, suddenly, it Korins’ twisting bookworm
seems, Manhattan — espe- sculpture of more than
cially around Times Square 2,400 books and scripts ar-
and in neighborhoods be- ranged chronologically as a
low 42nd Street — has bar- paean to theater history. ANNA WATTS — THE NEW YORK TIMES
reled back to life with all Broadway geeks can bed Bryant Park, a favorite place for picnics and taking a break from crowded sidewalks, is a few blocks from Times Square,
the things that have al- down at Civilian, a 27-story, the Birdland Jazz Club and All’antico Vinaio, the hottest place to eat in the theater district.
ways lured visitors: splashy 203-room hotel that opened
museum exhibitions, big in Hell’s Kitchen (305 W. nah crab drift in puréed as- and ground pork.
names on Broadway, res- 48th St.) last November. Da- paragus soup swirled with W hile the pandemic
taurants everywhere. Many vid Rockwell and the Rock- smoked crème fraîche. Rav- saw the closure of hotels
beloved businesses did not well Group dreamed up ioli plumped with braised throughout the city, includ-
survive these last two years, the design, its second-floor chicken in cacciatore sauce ing the Roosevelt, the Excel-
among them, Lord & Taylor, lounge featuring dollhouse- boosted with olives, broc- sior and the Omni Berkshire
Jazz Standard, Upright Cit- size sets for shows like “Ha- coli rabe, garlic slivers and Place, new lodgings in Chel-
izens Brigade theaters, “21” destown,” “Take Me Out” crisp shards of chicken skin sea are picking up, includ-
Club, Pegu Club, Café Bou- and “Moulin Rouge!” An is a heartier dish on the sea- ing Hyatt Place New York
lud, La Caridad 78, Eisen- outdoor terrace is tranquil sonal menu. (140 W. 24th St.), SpringHill
berg’s Sandwich Shop and except for the occasional For a meal near the Mor- Suites By Marriott (140 W.
Coogan’s. But hotel open- siren. Sensitive sleepers gan, head to Café China 28th St.) and the Motto by
ings, new restaurants and might be more bothered by in Murray Hill (59 W. 37th Hilton (113 W. 24th St.). Mot-
spirited street life are bol- the noise from elevators; St.), which reopened in a to’s ground floor lobby is an
stering hope that a full re- request a room away from ANNA WATTS — THE NEW YORK TIMES
three-story building in De- active scene, and there’s an
covery is at hand. them. This month, prices cember. The owners, Yim- expansive, modern lounge
Midtown and downtown range from $189-$449, ac- Visitors peruse works by Jean-Michel Basquiat at a new ing Wang and Xian Zhang, on the second floor. Rooms
office workers are less in cording to a recent online immersive exhibition in Chelsea’s Starrett-Lehigh Building. whose lovely Tribeca restau- are built for efficiency and
evidence as remote work search. The cheapest rooms rant, China Blue, closed in start at $300. A recent check
remains strong, but the fit a bed and not much else, rett-Lehigh Building (601 tickets). Postponed for a 2020, favor understated dé- on Trip Advisor tallied 163
56.4 million visitors pro- and amenities are stripped W. 26th St.), where a food year because of the pan- cor, with fringed lamps and reviews, 154 of them with an
jected to show up this year down; it costs $20 per day to hall was scheduled to open demic, the exhibition at the luminous touches of jade “excellent” rating and zero
(up from 32.9 million in request housekeeping. this month. Timed tick- Whitney Museum of Ameri- green. Tea-smoked duck, “poor.”
2021, according to the city’s The hottest place to eat in ets, available until Labor can Art has a somber theme, spicy cumin lamb and lip- New York can’t yet re-
tourism promotion agency, the theater district is a mod- Day, often sell out despite but beauty is present in the tingling, lush ma po tofu claim its nickname as the
NYC & Co.) should help est Italian deli, All’antico the price ($35 on weekdays, haunting photos of East swimming in leeks and chili city that never sleeps, but
make up for their absence. Vinaio (729 Eighth Ave.), $45 on weekends, a bit less Los Angeles, by Guadalupe sauce are highlights. So are what used to feel like a
where lines form before it for seniors and children un- Rosales, and Rebecca Bel- delicate scallion pancakes, stopped clock is finally tick-
In and around opens at noon. The Flor- der 13). more’s sculpture of a hu- sautéed string beans with ing away again. Anyone who
Times Square ence import is manned by Basquiat died at 27 of a man cloaked in a sleeping fermented mustard green enjoyed the former peace
upbeat guys singing along heroin overdose in 1988, and bag and surrounded by bul- shoots and dan dan noodles and quiet is out of luck.
Sidewalk gridlock is in to Italian music while slic- his estate lent the 200-plus let casings. woven with sesame paste Those days are gone.
full bloom in Times Square. ing and stuffing squares of artworks and artifacts, most Several videos are mes-
Some people still wear golden schiacciata (Tuscan of them never before exhib- merizing, including the first
masks in the open air, oth- bread that’s thinner than ited. His sisters helped faith- floor’s “Extracts,” a medi-
ers as chin straps ready to focaccia). La Favolosa is the fully re-create their child- tation on “Moby-Dick,” by
pull up for taxis, the sub- bestseller, the bread plas- hood living room and din- the collective Moved by the
way and city buses, where tered with pecorino cream ing room in Brooklyn, and Motion. On the sixth floor
the mandate still stands and artichoke cream, piled in video clips they, and oth- look for Coco Fusco’s gor-
(though many increasingly with salami and spicy egg- ers, share fun memories of geous “Your Eyes Will Be an
flout it). plant and crushed into a big the artist. A replica of his Empty Word” and Alfredo
Proof of vaccination and delicious mess. The shop is paint-spattered studio on Jaar’s “06.01.2020 18.39,” de-
masks in cinemas and the cramped, so if it’s a nice Great Jones Street is here, picting the attack on peace-
majority of restaurants are day, picnic in Bryant Park, too; a video projects the art- ful protesters in Washing-
no longer compulsory. Most a 10-minute walk away. ist at work there. ton, D.C., in 2020 following
Broadway theaters recently Pumping dance music George Floyd’s murder. And
dropped the vaccine re- Below 42nd Street fills an homage to the Pal- be sure to step outside for
quirement, although mask-
ing will remain in effect
through at least Tuesday,
Heading downtown, you
see many new cultural ex-
periences, including Little
ladium nightclub’s Michael
Todd VIP Room, where Bas-
quiat loved to party and a
Charles Ray’s affecting fig-
urative sculptures on the
fifth-floor terrace.
Nobody Beats
according to the Broadway
League. Actors from shows
like “Plaza Suite” (Sarah Jes-
sica Parker, Matthew Brod-
Island, a blossoming public
park on the Hudson River
that looks like something
out of a fairy tale. It’s so pop-
mural of his dominated a
wall. The intimate family
element combined with the
scope of Basquiat’s glowing,
Great spots to eat near
the Whitney include Pas-
tis, Cookshop, Chelsea Mar-
ket, the reborn Barbuto and
Our Coverage.
erick), “Macbeth” (Daniel ular in warm months that gone-too-soon talent creates the lesser known Mary Lane
Craig), “Company” (Patti Lu- timed entry reservations are an emotional effect that’s (99 Bank St.), a breezy West
Pone, Katrina Lenk), “Funny being enforced. hard to shake. Village bistro with outdoor
Girl” (Ramin Karimloo) and Causing a sensation In the Meatpacking Dis- seating. Owned by Black-
“The Music Man” (Sutton among art lovers is “Jean- trict, the Whitney Biennial foot Hospitality, it is open
Foster, Hugh Jackman) have Michel Basquiat: King Plea- 2022, “Quiet as It’s Kept,” is for lunch, brunch, happy ocregister.com/subscribe
been sidelined periodically sure,” an immersive new ex- on through Sept. 5 (99 Gan- hour and dinner (closed
this season by COVID-19, so hibition in Chelsea’s Star- sevoort St.; $25 for timed Mondays). Morsels of Jo-
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6/5 THE HIGHWAYMAN SHOW
“A MASTERPIECE” “REMARKABLE and BEGUILING” 6/6 JUSTIN HAYWARD
— Newport Beach Independent — The Show Report 5/29
DONAVON 6/8 BUCKCHERRY
FRANKENREITER
6/9 JANIVA MAGNESS 6/21
6/11 YÄCHTLEY CRËW
6/12 BUCKCHERRY
6/16 CHINA CRISIS
6/17 BEATLES VS STONES
by Thornton Wilder 6/18 THE SIDE DEAL (featuring founding
members of train, sugar ray and PawnshoP kings)
directed by Beth Lopes 6/1 6/19 DELVON LAMAR ORGAN TRIO
DAVID 6/21 JOSHUA RADIN
N – J 4 BROMBERG
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6/25 JETT HEADZ
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Evan Lugo, Grace Morrison and Hal Landon Jr. Photo: Matt Gush
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6/16 8/12 MARK FARNER’S AMERICAN BAND 7/22
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Reid was also named as one the country’s Top 10 writers in the Breaking News category.

We’re proud of our team of hard-working journalists who go to great lengths each day to bring
you the area’s best coverage in print and online. Whether it’s a local high school game or a
dy b it ew

n n n n n
n n n n
OPENS
June 18, 2022

CELEBRATING
CHICANO
ART AND
CULTURE
THE CHEECH MARIN CENTER
F O R C H I C A N O A R T & C U LT U R E

RIVERSIDE ART MUSEUM

BUY YOUR
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Image Credit (from top to bottom):


• Frank Romero, Arrest of the Paleteros, 1996
• Judithe Hernández, Juarez Quinceañera, 2017
• Carlos Almarez, Sunset Crash, 1982

All artworks are part of The Cheech Marin Collection

RIVERSIDEARTMUSEUM.ORG/GET-TICKETS

   SCNG PREMiUM 3


contents issue no. 3

Putting down roots Tasty train Mocktail mania


Immigrants find connection in Have culinary adventures and Alcohol-free doesn't
a community garden save gas riding Metrolink have to mean boring
page 11 page 24 page 40
up close 6 | current 8 | merced 14
gourmet baja 16 | la paz 20 | tin city 32
casinos 36 | home tour 43 | first person 45
PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER editorial CONTRIBUTORS
RON HASSE KEITH BIRMINGHAM, DAVID CRANE,
[email protected] EDITOR TYLER SHAUN EVAINS, MARLA JO FISHER,
SAMANTHA DUNN MADHUSHREE GHOSH, JEFF GRITCHEN,
[email protected] PAUL HODGINS, SUSAN HORNIK,
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
BRAD A. JOHNSON, WILL LESTER,
FRANK PINE CRAWFORD MCCARTHY, DEAN MUSGROVE,
[email protected]
COPY EDITOR
JERRY RICE LEONARD ORTIZ, JENNY PETERS,
MARK RIGHTMIRE, PAUL RODRIGUEZ,
advertising PHOTO EDITOR
MINDY SCHAUER, BROOKE STAGGS,
EMILY ST. MARTIN, JENN TANAKA,
VICE PRESIDENT, MICHELE CARDON ANNE VALDESPINO, ANA VENEGAS
ADVERTISING
KYLA RODRIGUEZ CREATIVE DIRECTOR
[email protected] LAILA DERAKHSHANIAN cover
VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING DESIGNER ILLUSTRATION
BILL VAN LANINGHAM KAREN KELSO JEFF GOERTZEN

COPYRIGHT © 2022 SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA NEWS GROUP


A PRODUCT OF

4 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


from the publisher

Feast your eyes


on food and
travel reads
DEAR LOYAL SUBSCRIBERS,

I
think it’s safe to say sharing great food with family, friends,

LEONARD ORTIZ, SCNG


coworkers and colleagues is often the starting point for
inspired conversations. A meal well enjoyed can also
expand the palate and the mind, opening each of us to new
perspectives and viewpoints. In fact, science tells us that
sharing a meal together actually raises our levels of oxytocin, the
feel-good hormone associated with bonding to others.

All the more reason to makes a tantalizing argument pandemic.


dig into this issue of SCNG for making the trip south Complimenting great
PREMIUM magazine about to Valle de Guadalupe in storytelling are compelling
food and travel destinations. Baja California, Mexico, for visuals from award-winning
Our talented staff writers and premier dining experiences. staff photographers Mindy
photographers — along with SCNG PREMIUM editor Schauer and Leonard
other in-the-know California Samantha Dunn interviews Ortiz as well as art director
writers — deliver a diverse the sommelier at Brea Chop Jeff Goertzen, who created
menu. House, which is a favorite the cover illustration and
In our pages you’ll find haunt of many including the opening spread for this
recommendations for culinary our senior editor Todd month’s featured read on
adventures, local dining picks Harmonson. sampling culinary destinations
JEFF GRITCHEN, SCNG

that you can check out next And staff journalist Tyler around the region by train.
weekend (or tonight!), along Shaun Evains shares her At Southern California
with a couple of stories that personal recommendations on News Group, we strive to
you can sink your teeth into three Black-owned restaurants deliver the best in local news
for an enjoyable Sunday read. to try in the L.A. metro area — along with smart, informed
Old La Brea Chop House Columnist Marla Jo Fisher local gems with an appetizing feature writing like the stories
array of culinary options. you’ll find here. And as
Now that travel restrictions always, we are committed to
are being lifted, more of our maintaining open and candid
readers and staff members lines of conversation between
are finding their way across our staff, our clients and
the country and across the partners, and, importantly,
globe. Like SCNG writer with you, our subscribers.
Brooke Staggs who penned Contact me anytime at
a wonderful essay on how her [email protected] and
recent trip to Africa restored enjoy this month’s issue of
BROOKE STAGGS, SCNG

her faith in humanity post- SCNG PREMIUM.

RON HASSE
Tanzania PRESIDENT & PUBLISHER,
SCNG

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 5


up close

The Grape Gatsby


At Old Brea Chop House, this is the guy you want to talk to about the vino
BY SAMANTHA DUNN

S
tep into Old Brea
Chop House and
you’ll be transported
to the kind of plush
steak house experience
you’d expect to find in
Chicago or New York — a
place where you wouldn’t be
surprised if Frank Sinatra
and the rest of the Rat Pack
magically waltzed right in
and took a corner booth.
The owner, Tony Faluso,
was a bigwig at Morton’s
Steak House for two
decades, and the chef knows
what to do with great cuts
of meat and seafood (the
delicious Tomahawk must
be as big as your head).
But the guy you want
to talk to about what to
pair with a prime rib or
King Crab Oscar is Steven
Ashworth. He’s the-rare-
for-an-American Italian
Master Sommelier, but
is also a self-described
“knowledge junkie,”
conversant in all aspects
of wine service and food Wine Director Steven Ashworth, the sommelier at the Old Brea Chop House
pairing, not to mention
world history and When did you first fall in love with wine?
geography — someone with While competing in Europe, I got exposed to wine, and
a general gift of gab. kind of fell in love with it. People say that we have these
You can often find defining moments in our lives, you know, that kind of form
him holding court in the and mold us. The things that we do are the things that we
dining room, spinning become. For me, that was definitely the case.
fascinating tales about a It was 1989. I was traveling through Europe and had just
wine’s journey to your table. finished a major competition. A friend of mine invited me
A former track athlete out to dinner to a little family run restaurant in Milan. At
who competed in Europe, the time, I liked wine, but didn’t know a lot about it. I could
a college professor and a tell you the difference between a Cabernet and a Pinot
wine consultant, Ashworth Noir, but beyond that, I didn’t know a whole lot. Anyway,
( just call him Steve) admits we went to this dinner and the wine poured was the one
he had a “very convoluted” that left a mark on me: Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva,
path to his current career, the 1986 vintage.
but all that life experience It wasn’t particularly fancy wine, but I was like, oh my God,
just adds to his expertise. I’ve never tasted anything like this in my life.

6 SCNG PREMiUM ♦ MAY 2022


Is that why you became an
expert in Italian wines in
particular?
When I was competing in
Europe, I was based in Italy. I
lived in Florence on and off for
the better part of about a dozen
years and fell in love with it.
Then I started studying Italian
wine very naively, not knowing
that Italy is hands down the
hardest region of the world to
learn. I’m glad no one told me
that in the beginning, because
it probably would’ve slowed me
down — but, then again, maybe
not.

Why is Italy the most difficult


wine region to study?
Think about Italy as a country,
how long it is. It covers a lot
of ground from top to bottom,
right? And then you factor in
the fact that there are two
islands as well with Sarnia
and Sicily — there are a lot of
microclimates. There are more
great varietals grown in Italy
than literally the entire rest of
the world combined. Some of
the finest wine I’ve ever drank
in my life has been produced in
a little backyard vineyard, and
the only place you can get the
wine is in a restaurant where
they literally serve it out of a
barrel.

Choosing a wine can


be intimidating for the
uninitiated. What’s your best
advice for average folks?
I’m the most unstuffy
sommelier anyone will ever
meet simply because all that
matters to me is, do you like
what’s in your glass? If it’s a
$10 bottle of wine and you love
it, that’s a great bottle of wine.
If it’s a $300 bottle and you’re
like, eh, it’s okay, then it’s not
worth it. It might be amazing
PHOTOS BY JEFF GRITCHEN, SCNG

for someone like me or someone


with a more refined pallet — or
someone for whom the price
tag matters. But to be honest,
throw out any rules that you’ve
ever heard. At the end of the
day, all that really matters is, do
you like it?

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMiUM 7


current

7 ultimate destinations for serious foodies

These must-try KNIFE PLEAT


restaurants are Chef Tony Esnault and his team at Knife Pleat
create tasting menus that celebrate holidays such
sure to impress as Nowruz, the Persian New Year, and the start of
white truffle season. With his wife/partner Yassmin
Sarmadi, Esnault expanded Knife Pleat’s offerings:
BY JENN TANAKA a Saturday afternoon tea service and fashion-
LEONARD ORTIZ, SCNG
forward lunches where the lobster Caesar salad
Chef remains one of the best lunchtime offerings in OC.
NOBU RYOKAN Tony South Coast Plaza, 3333 S. Bristol St.,
Perched on Carbon Beach, also known Esnault Costa Mesa
as “Billionaire’s Beach,” the exclusive :: knifepleat.com
Nobu Ryokan in Malibu features a
specialty menu for guests and gives
them prime access to Nobu Malibu,
which is one of the best spots in CASA VEGA
L.A. for spotting Hollywood’s A-list. The iconic L.A. red-boothed Mexican
It’s also one of the most difficult restaurant is an Angeleno favorite.
reservations to obtain in the country. Recently, it was elevated with a couple
That is, unless you’re staying at the of cameos in Quentin Tarantino’s “Once
Ryokan, and your concierge gladly Upon a Time in Hollywood” and Apple
assists. Savor the priceless sunrise TV’s “Mythic Quest.” In February 2022,
view from your private balcony while this family owned restaurant in the Valley
feasting on the Nobu-style toasted also was honored as a James Beard
bao buns. The delectable bites are “America’s Classics.” At Casa Vega, the
exclusively served in-room and arrive guacamole is still prepared tableside. The
with golden yolked eggs prepared esquites (creamy corn with cotija cheese,
sunny side up, and crispy Nueske cilantro and lime) and the cornflake-

DAVID CRANE, SCNG


bacon, nestled in buttery pan-fried crusted vanilla ice cream are old school
Chinese-style steamed buns. It’s an Mexican-American fare that represents
ideal way to start the day in L.A. nostalgic bites of SoCal’s culinary past.
22752 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu 13301 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks
:: malibu.nobuhotels.com :: casavega.com

LULU AT OTOTO ARDOR


THE HAMMER MUSEUM Ototo is the ultimate L.A. destination New York chef John Fraser returned to
Acclaimed food activist Alice Waters for sake aficionados. This nondescript California and showcases why he is a
brought Lulu at the Hammer Museum Echo Park restaurant serves sake on tap, master of plant-based cooking. At Ardor,
to fruition in 2021. The open-air including special seasonal releases from located inside Ian Schrager’s The West
space decorated with Chinese elm Japan. The ever-changing menu melds Hollywood Edition, the menu blends
trees is best enjoyed with the lunch chef Charles Namba’s childhood memories Mediterranean influences with hyper-
prix fixe tasting menu conceived of his mom’s yoshoku cooking. The food locally grown California produce to create
by chef David Tanis, who cooked is decidedly Western, but the style has vegetable-forward dishes. The charred
with Waters at Chez Panisse. The deep roots, originating from Japan’s carrots with hummus, fresh herbs and
restaurant celebrates “regenerative Meiji period in 1889. Think: potato salad pine nuts, crisp onion rings, and heirloom
food,” which takes food sourcing with fried capers and Kurobuta pork tomato-topped milk bread entice. Yet,
beyond sustainability and what Nature sausage, crispy panko-crusted Caledonian the desserts are the showstoppers. A
magazine calls “a food system to prawns with house-smoked roe, and rock phyllo-dough “pizza” with vanilla creme,
restore the planet.” Lulu also plans to shrimp okonomiyaki, a crispy egg-based gooseberries and 25-year aged balsamic
work with the University of California pancake with cabbage, sprouts and bonito vinegar is cut tableside and best enjoyed
system to educate students about flakes. The menu changes often to echo cozied in one of the swanky leather
local food sourcing and cooking. California’s changing seasons and to best banquettes. Michelin guide dubbed Ardor
Hammer Museum, pair with what’s being poured. as “ultra-chic” with a luxe rainforest vibe.
10899 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles 1360 Allison Ave., Los Angeles 9040 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood
:: lulu.restaurant :: ototo.la :: ardorweho.com

8 SCNG PREMiUM ♦ MAY 2022


Find one of the best
lunchtime offerings in OC
at Knife Pleat.

Paris à Los Angeles

Cheaper and faster than an Air France


flight, these classic bistros in Los Angeles
give you that vrai taste of France
BY EMILY ST. MARTIN

LEONARD ORTIZ, SCNG


LA POUBELLE BISTRO

La Poubelle Bistro lies in the heart of Franklin Village. The name, which
translates to “the trash can,” was picked to honor seedy jazz clubs and
brothels of early 1960s London (which is not French, but let’s go with it).
In 1969 when La Poubelle opened, it seemed a fitting name for the state
of the Franklin Village neighborhood and spirit of the owners. “La Poubelle
is a crazy place,” says long-time employee Mançois when I corner him
under the bistro’s iconic blue awning. The French fare includes classics like
steak frites, moules frites and soupe à l’oignon. At night, La Poubelle Bistro
opens its La Poubelle party doors to the neighboring room, where local
bands play under a massive disco ball and neon Le Son sign (the sound).
If you’re longing for some down-and-out Paris vibes, La Poubelle is the
Parisian fringe party you may be looking for.
Pro tip: Enjoy the delicious cocktails and apéritifs on the patio couch
framed by the blue mural of Paris city streets and the Eiffel Tower.
:: facebook.com/lapoubellebistro

LOUPIOTTE KITCHEN FIGARO BISTROT

Another Los Feliz charmer is Figaro Bistrot, or as Los Feliz


EMILY ST. MARTIN

Loupiotte Kitchen. The small locals call it “Café Figaro,” is the


JENN TANAKA

At n/naka, the 11-course


tasting menu changes restaurant looks like a French charming variety of bistro that’s
almost daily. market with tables framed by perfect for people watching from
vibrant shelves stocked with one of the blue and gold patio
French wines, champagne, tables that frames Vermont Avenue
cookies and oils. Patrons can or meeting friends for champagne
n/naka order at the counter from a and dessert. While the French
EMILY ST. MARTIN

The two Michelin-starred menu with French classics like pastries are certainly a star at
Japanese kaiseki restaurant soft scrambled eggs made with Figaro Bistrot, the menu offers and
displays the creativity of chef Parmesan and crème fraîche, executes top-notch items from
Niki Nakayama and her wife/ croque monsieur with hot ham, the Caesar salad to the pain perdu
partner/sous chef Carole Iida- mushrooms and béchamel, and (French toast) and especially le
Nakayama. The 11-course tasting a goat cheese salad served crab façon bénédicte (crab cakes
menu changes almost daily, but on sourdough bread. Dine in eggs benny) – they’re all incredible.
one signature dish represents for breakfast and lunch (the Pro tip: Since it’s just a hop and
the culmination of Nakayama’s restaurant is closed midafternoon) a skip from Skylight Books, Figaro
creative take on California or come by later for dinner. Bistrot may be the perfect spot
kaiseki: The creamy abalone There’s also a secluded room to plop down with a book (maybe
pasta with delicate fish roe in the back perfect for intimate “Candide” by Voltaire or Alexandre
and shaved truffles. Nakayama dinner parties and birthday Dumas’ “The Count of Monte
appeared on “Master Chef” and celebrations, and a charming patio Cristo”?) and a café au lait. Bonus:
teaches kaiseki-style cooking via with bench tables outside. A dining room with comfy couches
her “Master Class,” but the best Pro tip: Order the orange wine, and cozy pillows in overstuffed
way to experience her food is it’s soft and silky and goes down chairs. Wind down with a glass
eating at n/naka. lovely on a hot Los Feliz summer of wine and enjoy something
3455 Overland Ave., Los Angeles day. smothered in béchamel.
:: n-naka.com :: loupiottekitchen.com :: figarobistrotla.com

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMiUM 9


current

Let’s eat!

PHOTOS BY DAVID CRANE, SCNG


Reporter Tyler Shaun Evains gives us a taste
of her favorite Black-owned restaurants
around Los Angeles
THE FLAVOR TABLE MY 2 CENTS LA

Seafood for breakfast, anyone? What My 2 Cents LA puts a West Coast


to try at this Creole spot in South spin on Southern soul food with
Central that opens early morning: gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan
Shrimp and grits: Their version is options. What to try:
really shrimp étouffée with the rice Oxtail tacos: They will melt in
swapped out for the hominy porridge. your mouth after first making it
Short ribs and smothered pork chops water. Super-tender braised beef
are the other “over grits” options on is absorbed in a whiskey reduction.
the menu – what more can I say? Enough said.
Crab and shrimp omelet: You can Under the menu’s Tacos Negros
get it smothered in that Cajun gravy section – yes, Black tacos – you’ll
(étouffée sauce) for a few extra also find agave jerk shrimp, catfish,
bucks. fried green tomato, plantain and
Fried catfish and shrimp combo: callaloo, as well as the classic
Just perfectly crisp, Louisiana-style ground turkey and cheese.
deliciousness served with eggs, Club sandwich: What may seem
country potatoes or grits, and a like an unlikely pick at a place like
biscuit. this is just simplicity done right. It SIMPLY WHOLESOME
There’s a long list of items for the comes with fried chicken breast,
typical breakfast-lover: buttermilk turkey bacon and a sweet barbecue Caribbean-esque health food restaurant and
pancakes, caramel or peach cobbler remoulade, lettuce and red onion store in the South Central/Inglewood area. What
French toast, ham steak, garlic on an Italian bread roll – but ask to try:
chicken sausage, salmon croquettes, instead to make it grilled with Jamaican patties: You can’t go wrong with
and much more. applewood bacon, trust me. either the cabbage or chicken patty. The cabbage
2812 W. Florence Ave., Vegan peach cobbler: They have is seasoned perfectly, while the chicken has
Los Angeles; 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. a with-dairy option too, don’t a mild curry flavor; the flaky dough ties it all
Wednesday through Sunday; closed worry. together.
Monday and Tuesday 5583 W. Pico Blvd., Smoothies and slushes: There are so many
Red’s Flavor Table (takeout Los Angeles; 11 a.m to 6 p.m. to choose from I don’t remember which is my
only), 254 N. Market St., Suite A, Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to favorite. Kwesi’s Special blends pineapple,
Inglewood; open the same days, but 7 p.m. Saturday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. coconut, banana, strawberry and ice cream in a
closes at 3 p.m. Sunday, closed Monday way I’ve never tasted anywhere else. And, Simply
:: flavortableflorence.com :: my2centsla.com Wholesome is the only place I’ve seen and
ordered a 32-ounce smoothie – it’s bigger than
it sounds.
An all-day menu features breakfast (until 1 p.m.
daily, 3 p.m. on Sundays) including meatless and
eggless options for vegetarians and vegans.
For lunch and dinner, there are great options like
the salmon fajita wrap, lentil burger and Island
Delight; chicken, fish or vegetables in marinara
sauce with rice and peas, macaroni pie (a firmer,
more spiced Caribbean version of macaroni and
cheese), West Indian potato salad and plantains.
4508 W. Slauson Ave.,
Los Angeles; 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday-Saturday,
9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday. The health food store
closes at 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday.
:: simplywholesome.com

10 SCNG PREMiUM ♦ MAY 2022


community
Reflections on a community farm for immigrants,
a source of resilience and neighborhood joy
MINDY SCHAUER, SCNG

Fatuma Adan from Somalia waters her lush garden at the New Roots Community Farm in San Diego.

BY MADHUSHREE GHOSH
New Roots neighborhoods and economic self-sufficiency. Part of this
mission is the New Roots Community Farm.
Near the working-class neighborhood of City Heights in Alongside these East African communities in the southeast
San Diego is a green stretch that you could easily miss if you San Diego neighborhoods of Encanto, Skyline, Paradise
didn’t pay attention to the road that leads to it. A hand- Hills and City Heights, there are immigrant groups from
painted sign, “The New Roots Community Farm,” is quite Cambodia, Guatemala, Mexico, El Salvador, Philippines,
inconspicuous, while bossy chickens in the coop close to the Korea, Vietnam and many more. They all access New Roots
chain-linked fence gate offer greetings as you enter. Community Farm in the middle of this “food desert” – low-
You’re transported to heaven, and it’s right next to a income neighborhoods in which affordable, good quality,
California freeway. fresh food is hard to come by. Refugees and immigrants
For decades, the City Heights neighborhood has welcomed have been allotted about 75 plots in which to grow food from
refugees and immigrants from African countries including their native countries to sustain their families and to sell at
Somalia, Zimbabwe, Congo, Uganda and the Democratic farmers markets.
Republic of the Congo. An estimated 30,000 East Africans As an immigrant to America as a graduate student three
call San Diego home, making it the largest African decades ago, and the daughter of refugees – my parents
community in California. The City Heights Community moved to India from what’s now Bangladesh during the
Development Corporation (City Heights CDC) works with partition of India into India and Pakistan – I am hyper-
residents to create and sustain affordable housing, livable aware of what it takes for people to travel continents and

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 11


oceans to a different country, culture, food and language, peace-building, compromises and alignment of
especially in search of safety and shelter. the members.
Through one of San Diego’s many urban gardening The success is a testament to the leadership, flexibility
programs, I first visited New Roots at the start of the and long-term vision of the gardeners and volunteer
pandemic when each plot was thick with mustard greens, leaders like Figueroa. When I mention her leadership,
kale, beets and herbs. I returned home after that first visit Figueroa’s eyes crinkle as she smiles again, dismissing
with greens, and cooked them in mustard oil and nigella the praise.
seeds. I was instantly transported to my mother’s Bengali “This is for everyone, and don’t forget to talk to the others
kitchen. Just the smell of dry red chilies sautéed on high who also worked hard to get this going,” she insists, and
heat with greens to be eaten with mustard sauce (kashundi) her granddaughter watches her proudly as she slowly walks
triggered memories of home, or what it used to be home, for to her plot, showing me the new crops of lettuce and kale
an immigrant like me. growing in the fields.
It didn’t matter that the greens were grown by farmers Now, New Roots produces nearly 20,000 pounds of
from Africa who cooked it differently, it didn’t matter that chemical-free, culturally relevant produce supporting the
the food was prepared in a sunny California city – all that gardener households, as well as neighbors and communities.
mattered was that immigrants and refugees grew the food Anastasia Brewster, strategic partnerships manager of the
and then cooked it to remember the land they left behind. City Heights Community Development group, observes,
I set out to find out more about this community garden, “In the face of the threat of gentrification, together, we are
which, to me, is an emblem of how help continues to preserving an important cultural asset to prevent cultural
reestablish immigrants and refugees by welcoming what erasure, a common consequence of gentrification.”
they bring and adding their experience to help them But that’s not the only value.
be part of this world. Idzai Mubaiwa, 56, from Zimbabwe, laughs
SETTING DOWN ROOTS as she explains, “It’s not just about growing
greens. It’s therapy. When I got this plot in
When you walk through the lanes, 2009, it was like gold to me.”
the green lushness transports you into Another founding member of this
another world, even though you can community garden, Mubaiwa’s main
hear the cars whiz by a few yards away. focus, as it is for most members here,
The swaying trees and leaves provide is to grow food for her family. She
a safe haven from the daily humdrum, branched out to grow cucumbers,
not only to the community farmers, but beets, kale greens and other vegetables
also their children, many of whom have to sell at the nearby Hillcrest Farmers
grown up here in this program. Market to supplement her income.
Kale greens jostle with sugarcane In Harare, Zimbabwe’s capital, corn
alongside collard greens, banana plants, was plentiful but needs space which isn’t
nopales, lemongrass, even marigolds. as available in San Diego. So Mubaiwa
Banana fruit hangs low covered by purple has adjusted the foods she and her family
fruit sheath, alongside sugarcane and bamboo grow and eat. Living in an expensive city and
shoots next to mustard greens. African cuisine in a food desert neighborhood, access to organic
would use these greens with cornmeal, or in stews greens is scarce. Yet, farmers in New Roots are able to
with meats. sustain and also farm greens that give them supplemental
As part of the neighborhood development and settlement income.
programs, the New Roots community gardening program Many global groups comprise the New Roots community:
is one of the nation’s first programs to make neighborhoods The Mamas Group comprises women from the primarily
food-sustainable. agrarian Somali Bantu tribes. (From Kenya, Khadijah
During one of my visits to the community farm, I met a – who provided me only with her first name – leads
founding farmer on one of her rare breaks from tending that group, and sells most of the produce she grows in
her plot. Hermelinda Figueroa, 79, originally from her plot.) Members of the Neighbors Group are from
Oaxaca, smiles shyly behind her mask as her 21-year-old the neighborhood homes next to the garden, who farm
granddaughter Aurora translates. alongside the immigrant/refugee plots. And across from
While Figueroa grew papayas, oranges, avocados and the African groups are the Southeast Asian farmers – from
herbs in her own City Heights home, the idea of having a Cambodia, Vietnam, China – while on the far end of the
common plot of land for many in the neighborhood was garden are the farmers from Latin countries.
attractive to her. She became the force behind getting other Among the New Roots plots, there are distinct markers
families interested in forming New Roots. between global regions: The Latino gardens have wood-
Working closely with the city and the International carved signs of ownership on the plots, and the African ones
Refugee Commission, she sought her own Hispanic have painted signs. But all communities work closely on
community’s buy-in and assistance. The city would not cross-pollination of ideas and mutual respect of the land.
allow this project to proceed unless at least 20 families
were willing to sign up for it. The land to be allotted was NEIGHBOR HELPING NEIGHBOR
the parcel next to Chollas Parkway. Every day, she called her As we walk through the narrow mud lanes between plots,
MINDY SCHAUER, SCNG

friends, and neighbors, relentlessly focused on getting the I notice Figueroa’s hands. They are those of a farmer’s –
garden started. creased, arthritic, and yet, when she touches a Swiss chard
Many didn’t call back, many weren’t interested, but leaf, have the grace of a dancer’s. She has needed to slow
she was keen to find those who were – and she did. This down as her knees aren’t the same as before. Now, from July
initiative has proudly existed as a community project for through October, she grows marigolds, or la maravilla, for
nearly a decade and a half, sustained through negotiations, Day of the Dead festivities. The rest of the year, her friend,

12 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


Don Camarillo, grows beans, cilantro, garlic and other
greens on her allotted plot.
She stops and waves at farmers in the distance and tells
me the countries they’re from – Mexico (Oaxaca, Sinaloa),
Guatemala, El Salvador, Cambodia. At the furthest edge of
the garden, Hermelinda introduces me to Octavia, a newer
farmer also from Oaxaca. Octavia, who offers only her first
name, is growing kale and lettuce.
Pulling a beautiful head of lettuce, Octavia hands it to me,
refusing any payment. “Next time,” she says, giggling, “next
time you pay. This time, take it home!”
To me, her gesture feels very Indian; where I come from,
food and what you grow represents joy and love – something
that cannot be sullied by a monetary transaction. Later,
at home, I chop the lettuce, and add beet greens from my
garden with garlic and make a saag to eat with rice – a
perfect combination of San Diego, Oaxaca and India in
one bowl.
GRASSROOTS ACTIVISM
Amy Lint, a friend, activist and supporter of New Roots Hermelinda Figueroa, left, and Anastasia Brewster show off produce grown
since its inception, is a proponent of the people who make on the New Roots Community Farm, which is tucked inside a working-class
New Roots what it is. “This is a true community, where residential neighborhood in San Diego.
mental health and therapy is a positive focus. When adults
leave their countries, they lose their confidence with
the loss of language and communication methods. They
depend on their children to translate and navigate
a new world.”
But when they come back to the land, they regain their
power and space. They connect – through the land and
food – and align with other displaced members within the
community. Currently, Lint is helping the members with a
compost project to ensure nothing goes to waste and can be
reapplied to the land for years.
She marvels at the successes of the past decade – that New
Roots is now a sustainable, organic farming program, that
when she worked with the farmers and the city, the project
was termed a development project. “They treated this almost
like a condo program! We changed the urban agricultural
policy through New Roots. The farmers came to the city
council and argued for this space. It was grassroots activism
and they’re so proud they affected change.”
Michelle Obama, the former first lady, and other leaders
have visited New Roots, and the initiative continues to Khaeija Jumale from Somalia works in her vegetable garden.
inspire many such community programs across the country.
Lint gently advised me to keep the farmers informed about
this article I’m writing. “This is their life. Journalists come
here, chat with them and leave. The farmers need to see how
much of a difference they are making to the world, right? Tell
the readers the farmers sell their produce at the Hillcrest and
City Heights farmers markets every week, ask them to come
visit, and buy their produce.”
I have to agree.
The City Heights CDC helps the farmers by convening
monthly New Roots Leadership Council meetings with
volunteer leaders representing five primary language groups
(Spanish, Kisigua, Khmer, Karen and English) to plan
programs like composting and diverting waste from landfills
while keeping the farm sustainable.
Aurora proudly proclaims, “I’m about to be 21, and I grew
up here, knowing only organic farming. That’s the only rule
here, because that’s what we brought from our countries.”
I start to visit New Roots regularly. This isn’t a
journalistic or writing project for me anymore. This is now
personal. They are as much me as I am them.
Hajia Kangame from Kenya gets ready to plant tomatoes in her garden at
Madhushree Ghosh is author of the memoir “Khabaar.” New Roots Community Farm.

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 13


food + travel

Merced
THEWEEKENDGETAWAYYOUNEVERKNEWEXISTED
STORY AND PHOTOS BY EMILY ST. MARTIN

“Merced? Why on Earth are you cleaner than the streets of downtowns I
spending the weekend in Merced?” frequent. Inside, I get settled and head to
I’m asked this as I’m driving northbound dinner in the courtyard where there’s a
through the Grapevine, past Bakersfield, two-man ensemble playing stand-up bass
past miles of railroad tracks and graffiti- and guitar.
painted trains. Andrea, who works for the hotel, sits
The question has merit, because of all the across from me. Platters overflowing
glorious destinations on Earth, I’d never with pork chops, barbecue chicken and
longed for Merced. After checking the elote corn cobs cover the table, bourbon
crime rates and cringing, I asked myself and honey cocktails too. Andrea tells me
the same thing. But Merced is making a between sips that she grew up in Merced
push to become the next hot destination and that the hotel used to be boarded-up.
spot for wine and dine enthusiasts like I ask what she did for fun, and she says her
me, so rather than visit Sonoma or Paso friends would typically hang out near the
Robles, I figure, OK Merced, let’s see what creek. “We never had any of this,” she says,
you’ve got. gesturing toward the hotel.
I venture on, farther north from Fresno, Day two and it’s high noon at Vista Rainbird's Sauterne poached
until I reach this middle-of-nowhere town Ranch. A white farmhouse sits adjacent cod with stuffed morel
nestled within acres of olive and almond to vast farmland and inviting vineyards. mushrooms, white shiso
groves. There’s a quaint wooden sign that reads glazed peas, walnut and
I arrive at the newly renovated El “wine tasting open” with a red arrow matsutake tapenade alliums
Capitan Hotel on the corner of Main and pointing toward the farmhouse, so
M streets. It’s a modern white building naturally I walk in that direction. Marc
with nods to its art deco past incorporated Marchini greets the group; he’s a fourth-
into the design. Looking around, there generation Mercedian farm owner. They
are no clear signs of the crime rate that grow everything under the sun, even
had me spooked. The streets are clean, grapes for pinot noir despite them not

Potato Tart includes fermented potato mousse, brown Left: Rainbird's fan favorite (chef's favorite,
butter and pestled nasturtium, topped with trout roe. too!) is the Rye & Farro country loaf served
It pairs nicely with Opolo Paso Robles sparkling wine, with sunflower butter, bellwether ricotta,
according to the menu. golden raisin marmite and honeycomb.

14 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


Native Son downtown Merced. At
is a cozy the Antique Mall, I find
coffee a rack filled with 1960s
shop in the nightgowns à la Sharon
morning, by Tate. I buy two for $50,
nightfall, and skip onward down
craft the strip. There’s a used
cocktails bookstore which the cashier
are clinking tells me has been around
and the “since before I was born!”
tables are And there’s Bobby’s Market
filled. where I run in and find
Smoker’s Blend Tea, with
doing so well in the Central to the south, Merced appears CBD and THC harvested
Valley heat. to be up for the challenge with by the Sisters of the Valley
“Our zinfandel is the best,” Rainbird. — activists, healers and
gloats Tom Jackson, who’s Amuse bouche kicks off self-proclaimed pot-growing
worked for the family for the five-course experience nuns. I make it back just in
decades. At a table outside and features a white onion time to catch the shuttle to
the farmhouse, they serve macaroon filled with pork Corbin Cash Distillery in
guests fresh salad and pasta pâté, crispy chicken skin and nearby Atwater.
with sauce made from the lingonberry jam. If there’s anyone who
tomatoes and garlic they “That’s bark from Fish eats, breathes and sleeps
grow on the farm. They Camp Yosemite,” Abby sweet potatoes, it’s David
pour an array of wines — Johnson, the hotel sales Souza, the frontman of
merlot, chardonnay, a brut manager, says as I examine Corbin Cash Distillery.
sparkling wine, and the zin my macaroon. “Chef Not only does he show
(which I agree is best before scavenged it himself.” us how he packs ’em and
enthusiastically accepting a I choose the bluefoot ships ’em, he explains in
second glass). mushroom risotto for my riveting detail how he
Marc prides himself on the second course. turns them into booze.
pizzas they make, and I can The third course, otherwise We taste all the spirits,
taste why — they’re topped known as the bread course, is including vodka made with
with peppers, mushrooms and the clear favorite at our table sweet potatoes that goes
onions grown at Vista Ranch — a rye and farro country down like butterscotch,
and cooked in wood-fired loaf that’s crispy and salty and sweet potato liqueur,
ovens we can see from where on the outside, buttery and which sounds questionable
we’re sitting. airy inside and served with a but tastes like a boozy
Taking in my surroundings, bellwether ricotta and golden spiced holiday cider. Again,
I don’t feel like I’m in Central raisin marmite. When the I’m thinking, who knew,
California. Aside from the chef comes by our table to say Merced?
absence of rolling hills, I feel hello, he admits the bread is My last night in Merced, I
like I’m indulging at some his favorite too. get a feel for the nightlife. I
secluded villa in Sonoma. It’s Main course for me is check out Mainzer and bang
around this point, nearing a beeswax and black salt my head to ’80s hair metal.
the end of my second glass of crusted Mariposa Ranch I peek in at the Portuguese
zin, that I acknowledge I’m ribeye, and for dessert, it’s the tapas bar. I have a cocktail
pleasantly surprised by my almond panna cotta, which at Native Son. Just as I’m
weekend away in Merced. uses almonds harvested ready to call it a night, I ask
Back at El Capitan, after a nearby. a local I pass on the street
wine-tasting induced nap, I’m I tried everything on the if there’s any karaoke bars
ready to mosey over to the menu, trading bites with nearby. She smiles and says,
newest attraction: Rainbird. neighbors, to make sure I “Not yet!”
While the Central California experienced it all. It was
Valley hasn’t exactly been delicious, but the bread, :: elcapitanhotel.com
known for its culinary scene, something about the bread is :: vistaranch.com
Above: Rainbird's amuse bouche is at least not in the same special. :: rainbirdrestaurant.com
a white onion macaroon filled with vein as their San Francisco Saturday morning, while I :: mercedantiquemall.com
pork pâté, crispy chicken skin, neighbors to the north or brace myself for the distillery :: corbincash.com
lingonberry jam and shiso. their Los Angeles neighbors tasting to come, I shop :: themainzer.com

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 15


travel

Wear your stretchy pants to


Mexico’s wine country

TAKEABITEOUTOF
The evening mist rolls
Baja BY MARLA JO FISHER

over the vineyards in the


Guadalupe Valley (Valle de
Guadalupe) near Ensenada.

16 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


YEAH, YEAH, WINE SCHMINE. to help you in the small towns that
Lots of people know that you can make up the wine country.
drive down and enjoy drinkable We are here to talk about the
wine these days in the Valle de food. That’s right. You’re allowed to
Guadalupe, which is just over the pour some vino while you’re eating.

PHOTOS BY ANA VENEGAS


border in Baja California. But this is all about eating at the
(It’s three hours away. What are place that coined a new expression:
you waiting for? Get going!) Baja Med. And that’s why I go
But let’s set aside the draw of 180 down there. After all, there are
wineries – many of which now use wineries all over California. But
grapevine cuttings from the best you’re not going to get an amazing
that Europe has to offer. And the gourmet meal for half-price there.
fun and adventure of driving dirt Sol De Media Noche is a busy stop in the Guadalupe I’m even thinking about bringing
roads to find them. And the friendly Valley. The family owned business serves top-notched my teetotaler friends to Mexico, just
people everywhere who are happy cheeses, breads and marmalades to enjoy with wine. to eat. They will thank me.

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 17


Fauna restaurante at Bruma plan. Reservations are also strongly
I must confess I haven’t eaten here recommended, if not essential. There’s
yet, but it’s on my list for our next visit, also a pricey hotel here, in case you
because friends rave about it. You won’t don’t want to drive anywhere afterward.
be surprised to learn it’s in a beautiful At this writing, Fauna’s chef is David
vineyard setting with a mountain Castro Hussong (yes, that Hussong)
backdrop. And the restaurant is located who has developed a reputation for
at the Bruma winery, which is renowned creative and exquisite cuisine, along
for its beautiful art and architecture. with Maribel Aldaco Silva.
Bruma is one of the first wineries you “Mexican cuisine at hand, we cook
come to if you drive down into the valley what we find,” Hussong is quoted on
from Tecate. By crossing the U.S. border the Fauna website, but we’re not talking
at Tecate, you’ll have about an hour of chicken wings here.
beautiful boulder-strewn scenery before There’s an eccentric mix of tasting
you enter the official Ruta del Vino. menu and à la carte here, so plan to
This means that, if you’re coming from relax and go with the flow. There is an
the other end of the highway, Bruma actual indoor portion, which is good in
and Fauna will be the last place you case it’s chilly.
visit.
This can take longer than you Price point: Expensive

ANA VENEGAS
think, due to the irresistible urge to Location: 22760 Valle de Guadalupe
linger everywhere, so if you want / Ensenada, Baja California
to visit Fauna, make yourself a :: faunarestaurante.mx

Deckman’s at El Mogor
Run by Michelin star chef Drew
Deckman, this is another restaurant that
serves its customers outdoors on a series of
stunning terraces overlooking the vineyards.
Food and service are refined, with a casual
feel. Food is cooked over a huge outdoor
grill, making this a place for people who
love meat and seafood.
The offerings are local farm-to-table —
they grow their own fruits and vegetables —
and Deckman is involved in the Slow Food
movement. The menu changes constantly,
but look for oysters, clams, grilled meats
and crab.
The day we were there, they had fresh
anchovies and quail on the grill. They
didn’t have a vegetarian menu, and when
I asked for veggie food, they came up with
some, but it wasn’t terrific. They had an
interesting tasting menu. The service was
spotty, but really this is a place that you
have to try. (The editor of this magazine
swears it’s some of the best food she’s ever
had, and she used to live in snooty Paris,
France. So.)
The restaurant is located at the Mogor-
Badan winery, where tastings are also
PHOTO COURTESY FERNANDO CARMELA

available.
Reservations are essential. Walkups are
not accepted. In the spirit of Baja, they
suggest casual clothes and sensible shoes. A
sweater is not a bad idea, or even a blanket.

Price point: Expensive


Getting there: Ensenada-Tecate Highway
km. 85.5, San Antonio de Las Minas, Valle
de Guadalupe, B.C., Mexico
:: deckmans.com For chef Drew Deckman, the Valle de Guadalupe “is a chef’s dream.” House specialties at Deckman's include

18 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


The Hacienda

PLANNINGAHEAD
(also known as Restaurante y Vivero La Hacienda)
There are a few different ways to enter the Ruta de Vino,
which is the officially designated name for the Valle de
Guadalupe wine country. Perhaps the most popular is to
Getting there: Valle de Guadalupe, which sits drive the beautiful coastal road south, as if you’re going
14 miles northeast of Ensenada along Baja to Ensenada, but then cut off onto Highway 3, 14 miles
Highway 3, is a three- to four-hour drive from northeast of Ensenada. When I take this route, I always
Southern California. It is most often entered try to stop for breakfast or lunch at La Hacienda, which
from a turnoff on Baja Highway 1 or by entering can be found on the turnoff to San Antonio de las Minas
Mexico through Tecate, then heading south. (sometimes called Villa Juarez). Yes, it’s down a rutted dirt
Temperature: The weather is usually pleasant, road, but my old Toyota Corolla can make it, and your car
with cool-to-chilly winters and hot summers. can, too.
Bring a sweater even in summer for evenings This business started 40 years ago as a plant nursery, on
spent outdoors. a beautiful pastoral setting covered with ancient oak trees.
Peak time: The Ruta de Vino has become the People began asking if they could picnic there. Sensing
Napa Valley of Mexico, with many well-heeled a good thing, the owner began selling roast chicken and
Mexican tourists visiting from all over. Crowds burgers. Nowadays, there are elegant tables under the
can get heavy during holidays and the Vendimia beautiful oak trees, and a refined menu that attracts day-
wine, food and harvest festivals in August. It’s trippers from all over. It’s impossible to avoid relaxing
never a bad idea to make reservations. Day trips while there, and the excellent food and service prepares
from Ensenada or Rosarito Beach are popular. you for the day to come. Check out their weekend brunch
buffet. While you’re there, see if you can sample some of the
flavored aperitifs made from local fruits by the owner’s son.

Price point: Low to medium


Location: Restaurante y Vivero la Hacienda, Santos
Degollado 444, 22766 Villa de Juárez, Baja California
:: lahaciendaresta.com

Finca Altozano
If you’re the kind of person whose life depends on trying
to get a reservation for The French Laundry in Napa, you
might as well just turn the page right now. Because there
are no snooty restaurants in the Valle. None. Nada.
But that doesn’t mean there isn’t incredible gourmet
food. It just means that it’s cheaper, less pretentious and
easier to get into than it is at home. Expect to pay half of
what a fine dining experience would cost at home. Though
you have to drive a dirt road to find it.
One case in point is Finca Altozano. It was founded by
celebrity chef Javier Plascencia, who at last count runs
seven restaurants. It has refined and elegant cuisine.
Think Kumamoto oysters mignonette, Serrano ham
from Extremadura, artisanal cavatelli with beef cheek
and fennel and oak-grilled quail. People come from
everywhere to eat there.
But, here’s the thing: The entire restaurant is outdoors
under a roof with rustic tables and chairs. The food
is cooked over a wood-fired oven. On one memorable
visit, the resident pet pig, Olivia, slept on my foot the
entire meal. (She’s too big now and been relegated to the
farmyard, sadly).
I’ve never met Javier Plascencia, but he sat near me once
wearing a plaid flannel shirt and John Deere tractor cap.
That attitude encapsulates the Valle de Guadalupe dining
experience, which is all about enjoyment, and not about
attitude.

Price point: Medium


Address: Carretera Tecate-Ensenada (Highway 3) Ejido
Francisco Zarco, Valle de Guadalupe 22750
e the massive rib eye for two, Kumiai oysters and grilled quail. :: fincaltozano.com

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 19


adventure

Get From living desert to teeming


sea, here’s how to experience
Baja’s wonderland

La Paz
20 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022
BY JENNY PETERS

F
eeling adventurous after, oh, two years
of being cooped up? La Paz in Baja
California promises a wonderland for
those who love adventure – whether
that’s the relatively tame kind or a bit closer to
the edge.
Perched on a protected bay on Mexico’s
famed Sea of Cortez (aka the Gulf of
California), the city is the major gateway to
everything those spectacular waters have to
offer. It’s a desert climate, so it is warm to
downright hot virtually all year round, just
like Cabo San Lucas, located about two hours
to the south.
To get to La Paz, take one of the numerous
nonstop, 2.5-hour flights to Los Cabos out of
LAX. Once there, hire a transport service to
drive you north. Or, you can rent a car, but
know that once you’re in La Paz, you won’t
really need one, as tour companies will pick
you up, taxis are plentiful and walking is
definitely an option around town.

GET WET
While there are many adventures to be had
in La Paz, the ones that get you wet are some
of the most exciting. So, plan to be on a boat
as often as you can – especially in the months
of November to May, when the Sea of Cortez
really lights up. That’s when the whale sharks
meander in, those massive, gentle sharks that
feed on plankton. Snorkeling with a whale
shark is a surreal experience for these are the
largest fish in the world, and the moment
you hit the water with one, you’re suddenly
aware of just how small we humans are. The
exhilarating rush of swimming with them is
hard to compare with anything else; but scuba
diving in the Sea of Cortez runs a close second.
Every dive in this underwater wonderland
is different, of course, but if you’re lucky you’ll
spot six Moray eels among the corals, teeth
bared in search of food, then a sea turtle will

A whale shark mural in


La Paz

The sun sets on a beach in La Paz.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF VISIT LA PAZ, ALFREDO MARTINEZ FERNANDEZ

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 21


wander by, followed by a school of spotted eagle rays. And if huge sand dunes that are a gas to navigate. It’s a loud, dirty,
your luck is really holding, hammerhead sharks might even hot afternoon that can get even dirtier if you try your hand
make an appearance or a perhaps a pod of dolphins will at surfing down the sand dunes and don’t quite keep your
zoom past. One thing is certain: you’re going to romp with balance – and it’s a blast! Numerous companies offer these
seals at Isla del Espiritu Santo, for they live there year-round driving adventures (try Baja Rent for a good guided tour),
and love to show off for visitors. but the area is so large that you feel like you’re out on your
And then there are the whales – so many whales! own, with only tire tracks to show that others have been
Humpbacks, gray whales, sperm and blue whales all there, too.
annually make their way to the waters around La Paz where
they have their babies, then stay for months to allow the GET ANGLING
offspring to get big and strong enough for the migration There’s an awful lot of fish in this sea, so it’s no wonder
back to the north. Venture out on a small boat tour to get up that deep-sea fishing is a hugely popular adventure centered
close to these majestic creatures – it’s an encounter you will in La Paz. Anglers are practically guaranteed a catch, be
never forget. it marlin, swordfish, tuna, wahoo, amberjack, dorado or
My friends and I like making The Cortez Club watersports grouper. In fact, there are big money fishing tournaments
center our home base for all these aquatic explorations, through the summer months and into October. But you can
PHOTO BY ALFREDO MARTÍNEZ FERNÁNDEZ

as they have been in business since 1995 and really know be a beginner and have a wild time with a rod and reel here,
everything about these waters and the denizens of the deep as the fishing guides bring all the experience you need. Take
that call it home. a full-day trip and see what you bring home (the guides will
make sure you only bring home fish that are in season) and
GET DIRTY then the real magic of La Paz begins.
Grab your oldest clothes (and whatever you do, don’t It’s such a fishing town that many of the top restaurants are
wear white!) to have a completely different experience out perfectly willing to take your catch and cook it right up for
in the desert in a Polaris RZR. That fat-tired, wide-open, you that night, creating spectacular dishes and even pairing
four-wheel drive vehicle can go anywhere, but for locals and Mexican wines (from the Valle de Guadalupe in northern
visitors alike, the prime place to go is El Mogote. Found Baja). Famed chef Hector Palacios of Origen La Paz did just
across the bay from La Paz, this wild place is filled with that after our fishing voyage, creating a five-course meal from

22 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


the dorado and grouper caught earlier. Sea Side, Steinbeck’s Experience the
and Tailhunter are other eateries that are happy to cook up beauty of Playa
your catch. And Baja Adventure Co., which offers numerous Balandra Bahia
fishing excursions, clean all your fish and vacuum seal it if (top left), where
you want to transport it all the way back home. whale watching
(bottom left) and
GET SLEEPY even swimming
La Paz has many places to stay. Among them, Costa Baja with whale sharks
Resort & Spa is a popular beachfront hotel just to the north (bottom right) is a
of town that boasts a private beach, swimming pool and must. Find quaint
spa. Baja Club is a boutique hotel in the center of town, accommodations
just steps from the beautiful three-mile waterfront like the Hotel
Malecon walkway that’s filled with sculptures, playgrounds Guaycura (top
and even a skate park. right).

GET PAMPERED
Cap off your Baja Sur adventures with a completely
different experience by spending your last few nights at
the Montage Los Cabos, located not far from Los Cabos
International Airport. Their Montage Spa is a gorgeous
place, filled with steam rooms, plunge pools and other
PHOTOS BY VIRRO BORJA

soothing amenities, where talented massage therapists


work out kinks you didn’t know were there. You can even
have a treatment on the beach, as the Montage is one of
the few Cabo luxury resorts that has both a beach and a
protected cove known as Santa Maria Bay that’s perfect for
ocean swimming.

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 23


explore

TASTY TRAIN
TRAVELS
READYFORAGASTRONOMICADVENTURETHATSAVESGAS?
TAKETHEMETROLINKANDEXPLORE.
BY JENN TANAKA
Did you know Metrolink’s Orange County Line connects travelers to
l
lots off prime
i f d destin
food d inations? On weekends, all-day passes
for adults are $10, whille riders 17 and younger can hop aboard
for free. Riding the raiils reduces your carbon footprint and,
according to the Metrrolink’s stats, “by taking the train,
Metrolink riders ann nually help reduce 130,000 metric tons of
CO2 equivalent greenhouse gas emissions.” Sure, the train is
an eco-friendlier wayy to travel, but if the prices at the pump
have you cutting bacck on gas consumption, this mode of
transportation is also
o a cost-saving alternative.
Navigate the diningg options with this comprehensive
restaurant guide. Begiin or end at San Juan Capistrano or
Union Station in Los Angeles – either way, there
are h
historic tea houses and Michelin star
resstaurants to be discovered. All aboard,
an
nd eat well!
ILLUSTRATION BY JEFF GOERTZEN

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 25


HERITAGEBARBECUE

SANJUAN Across the street from Mission


San Juan Capistrano, Heritage

CAPISTRANOO Barbecue’s offset smokers waft


the scent of slowly smoked meats
prepared by pitmaster Daniel
Castillo and his team. Outdoor
San Juan Capistrano has experienced a seating feels as if you’re dining
culinary resurgence during the past few in Castillo’s backyard. The lines
years. Michelin-lauded restaurant Heritage are long, but what do you expect
Barbecue joined old-school neighborhood from a Michelin Bib Gourmand
favorites like Trevor’s at the Tracks and Ramos winner?
House Cafe to create a dining landscape ideal Order: For newcomers, try the
for wanderlust foodies. The city’s historic brisket and beef ribs. Then move
downtown centers around a picturesque terra- to the daily specials. Sandwiches
cotta tiled mission. The area surrounding the created by chef Nick Echaore
mission is pedestrian-friendly and quaint, include brisket banh mi, and
with most of the restaurants within a two- the tacos are rolled with award
minute walk from the Amtrak/Metrolink winning Burritos Las Palmas

LEONARD ORTIZ, SCNG


train station. tortillas. For dessert, banana
pudding layered with pound cake.
Walking distance from station:
0.1 mile; 2 minutes
:: heritagecraftbbq.com

TEAHOUSEONLOSRIOS
If you’re seeking a cozy slice of San Juan Capistrano, reserve a table at
the Tea House on Los Rios. The 1911 cottage nestled on historic Los
Rios Street was converted into a teahouse and maintains its charming
historical ambiance. Sit outside on the patio and watch passersby
MARK RIGHTMIRE, SCNG

longingly stare at your tower of pastries and tea sandwiches.


Order: Afternoon tea is the most popular, but other savory English-
inspired entrees include shepherd’s pie with a freshly baked buttermilk
scone and the farmers market vegetable quiche.
Walking distance from station: 450 feet; 2 minutes
:: theteahouseonlosrios.com

RAMOSHOUSECAFE
ELADOBEDECAPISTRANO
Built in 1881, the Ramos House Cafe was
transformed into a restaurant in 1995. In 2020, The California State Landmark building is updated with a mesquite
Michelle and Kris Winrich took over the local grill in the kitchen. President Richard Nixon, who was born in Yorba
favorite. Linda and had his Western White House in San Clemente, enjoyed the
Order: Cinnamon apple beignets. These sweet California-Mexican food prepared by El Adobe de Capistrano’s chefs.
bites are Order: The President’s Choice combination plate, which included
an updated the former president and his wife’s favorites: chile relleno, chicken
version of the enchilada and a beef taco, with rice and beans.
cafe’s famous Walking distance from station: 0.2 mile; 3 minutes
beignets that :: eladobedecapistrano.com
MARK RIGHTMIRE, SCNG

were featured
in magazines
and travelogues FKNBREAD
for decades.
Huckleberry This family owned bakery is named after the owners’ three boys:
coffee cake and Finn, Kane and Nash. The bakery is known for its sourdough bread,
basil-cured but in 2021 the kitchen expanded its offerings to include grab-and-go
salmon lox with toast points are other new menu items such as salads and sandwiches. The bakery rotates a selection of
options worth a try. scones, pastries, cookies and pies.
Walking distance from station: 344 feet; Order: Grab a loaf of sourdough; for sweets, try a baklava croissant.
1 minute Walking distance from station: 410 feet; 2 minutes
:: ramoshouse.com :: fknbread.com

26 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


ANAHEIM
The Anaheim Regional Transportation
Intermodal Center (or ARTIC) connects commuters
BRAD A. JOHNSON, SCNG

to the Honda Center and Angel Stadium of Anaheim. The


glowing exterior is a lightshow visible from the freeway, but the
surrounding dining options are lackluster. The local breweries
in Anaheim, however, are worth a visit. Some like Golden Road
Brewing serve IPA-infused food, too.

MAYFIELD LAMILLCOFFEE
The bright open-air space features high ceilings, a The Los Angeles-based specialty coffee roaster grew a loyal
small market section with cookbooks, Emily Brown following in Silver Lake before expanding to Anaheim. The sleek
stoneware mugs, and a variety of wines. red exterior and modern white interior with wooden and brass
Order: Pop in for brunch and cocktails. The classic evokes a museum-boutique atmosphere.
croque madame is the safe and tasty way to commence. Order: A classic breakfast sandwich with Neuske’s bacon, the
Eggplant toast (think: avocado toast upgraded) and the Valrhona mocha and the Japanese iced coffee.
za’atar-spiced chicken served on the weekend Supper Walking distance from station: 0.7 mile; 14 minutes
Club menu showcase the kitchen’s modern take on :: lamillcoffee.com/pages/anaheim
California-Mediterranean cuisine.
Walking distance from station: 167 feet; 1 minute
:: mayfieldoc.com
NOBLEALEWORKS
TREVOR’SATTHETRACKS The microbrewery is a local favorite with a rotating tap list.
The large steel water tower marks the
The space itself attracts architecture aficionados with its brewery’s entrance. Though it doesn’t have
1894 Mission Revival-style exterior. While the building a kitchen, there is a rotating list of local
ISAAC ARJONILLA

and proximity to the tracks evoke a nostalgic vibe, the food trucks and pitmasters who sell food
menu is modern Californian. The restaurant sources to pair with Noble Ale Works beers.
locally from The Ecology Center; it serves salads Order: Ask in the tasting room about the
and flatbreads along with nostalgic desserts. Owner monthly specials and what’s best on tap at
Trevor Baird dedicates his time to the community the moment.
by supporting organizations such as South County Walking distance from station: 0.9 mile; 19 minutes
Outreach, a nonprofit that helps prevent homelessness :: noblebeertogo.square.site
in OC.
Order: The Southern seafood chowder and Nonna’s
Sicilian cannolis are great bookends to a meal. The
ahi tuna nachos and the Farm Stand Feaster prepared
with vegetables from The Ecology Center are sharable
starters that showcase the area’s abundance.
Walking distance from station: 49 feet; 1 minute
:: trevorsatthetracks.com

PAUL RODRIGUEZ
RAMENSHACK
Keizo Shimamoto made it his life’s mission to craft
ramen. He developed several recipes after traveling
around Japan and the United States. His goal: devour
as many bowls of ramen as possible. These taste GOLDENROADBREWINGANAHEIM
memories, travels and the evolution of his soup bases
are represented on his menu. Broths range from The award-winning brewery expanded into Anaheim with an
traditional tonkatsu (pork) to chicken with dashi and a industrial-style pub that features 30 beers on tap. The outdoor
completely vegan version. space is welcoming for large groups and pets. The indoor
Order: The classic Tonkatsu is where most diners start, ambiance feels like a Southern California biergarten.
but the vegan Capistrano shoyu ramen with kabocha Order: Al pastor fries with pineapple-habanero crema, pub
broth is a true celebration of Shimamoto’s Ramen Shack pretzel with IPA beer cheese, street tacos, beer-infused flan, and
in Southern California. mango nada with mango sorbet and chamoy seasoning.
Walking distance from station: 276 feet; 1 minute Walking distance from station: 1.1 miles; 22 minutes
:: ramenshack.com :: goldenroad.la

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 27


SANTAANA
The Santa Ana Metrolink
Station – a gem of Spanish
Revival architecture, with its red barrel tiled
roof and painted tiles – was built in 1985. It’s
been seen in several Hollywood productions,
including “Rain Man” with Dustin Hoffman
and Tom Cruise, and the second season of “True
MARK RIGHTMIRE, SCNG

Detective.” … The real stars now are all the great


eateries close by:

BLINKINGOWLDISTILLERY
Orange County’s award-winning distillery
updated its offerings with a full kitchen. The
outdoor patio is welcoming for imbibing in
the afternoon or brunching on the weekends.
The sleek bar inside offers an intimate tasting
room experience where guests can view the steel
drums and barrels where the distillery’s liquors
are aging to perfection.
Order: Start by sampling Blinking Owl
Distillery’s rye whiskey then move on to the
food. The Everything Bagel breakfast pizza
highlights the playful innovation of the kitchen
BRAD A. JOHNSON, SCNG

during brunch. Pair it with a cocktail – perhaps


an Aquavit Bloody Mary or a Blinking Owl rye
whiskey oat milk coffee concoction.
Walking distance from station: 0.4 mile;
9 minutes
:: blinkingowldistillery.com

TRUST/DETENTIONDTSA 4THSTREETMARKET
The next iteration of Playground, Trust and This collective of
Detention DTSA offer chef-driven meals in two restaurants highlights
formats. At Trust, chef Justin Werner presents the culinary range
thoughtful tasting in downtown Santa
menus that Ana. Hawaiian
change weekly. plate lunches at
The dinners Faka’s Island Grill,

BRAD A. JOHNSON, SCNG


revolve around vegan tostadas with
themes such as coconut at La Vegana
BRAD A. JOHNSON, SCNG

New York/Roots, Mexicana, and OC


Adventures in favorites such as
Seafood and Electric City Butcher
ultimate pasta are housed in this
dinners. eclectic food hall and
At Detention, recording space. Electric City Butcher is known for its thoughtfully
chef John Parker sourced meats. The small farms and ranches that ECB finds for its
presents a series of layered dishes such as the lamb and beef earned it the reputation as one of the best butcher
“cheddar” broccoli sweet potato with brown shops in Orange County.
butter soy emulsion in a laid-back setting. The Order: Electric City Butcher frozen lamb and beef dumplings. These
cocktail omakase experience highlights the small-batch dumplings are a collaboration with Cali Dumpling Co.,
evolution of the bar program. and are only available at Electric City Butcher’s shop. The chicken
Order: The tasting menu at Trust. liver mousse is sold in glass jars. And, for your four-legged friends,
Walking distance from station: 0.7 mile; the butchers sell roasted bones for chew toys.
13 minutes Walking distance from station: 0.7 mile; 13 minutes
:: trustdtsa.com :: 4thstreetmarket.com

28 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


POURCOMPANY

FULLERTON
ON The gastropub-style
menu is boosted by the
kitchen’s attention to
The historic station here
has been operational sourcing. The restaurant
since 1865 and houses two is a popular watering
depots: one built by the hole in the evenings,
Union Pacific Railroad in but its brunch offerings
1923 and another built by (including chilaquiles
Atchison, Topeka and Santa and French toast) are
Fe Railway in 1930. Both worth a visit earlier in
are listed on the National the day.
Register of Historic Places. Order: A burger –
Explore the city’s history simple, classic and done
BRAD A. JOHNSON, SCNG

with locomotives at the well with bacon jam and


Fullerton Train Museum, beer-braised onions.
which is open the first and Walking distance from
third Saturday of every station: 0.3 mile;
month. 7 minutes
:: pourcompany.com

THECELLARRESTAURANT
Since 1969, this old school, leather-boothed restaurant has been an
under-the-radar Fullerton dining destination. Complete with oddities,
local lore and old Hollywood stories – this is the place where Richard
BRAD A. JOHNSON, SCNG

Burton proposed to Elizabeth Taylor! – The Cellar remains an O.C. gem.


Order: Chateaubriand for two, French onion soup and the grande soufflé.
Walking distance from station: 0.3 mile; 5 minutes
:: cellardining.com

KHANSAABDESICRAFTKITCHEN
The Michelin-award winning restaurant
showcases chef Ali Mookhi’s cooking, which
encompasses flavors from Pakistan and India.
The Halal-friendly menu and alcohol-free
cocktails create a tapestry of flavors that
illustrate Mookhi’s love of street food.
Order: Pani puri, butter chicken and tandoor-
fired naan.
Walking distance from station: 0.2 mile;
5 minutes

JEFF GRITCHEN, SCNG


:: khansaaboc.com

SOMISOMI
Steps from the museum center, this popular
dessert chain serves Japanese-style taiyaki
waffles stuffed with Nutella, custard or cheese.
The shop is intended for takeaway orders with ROMANCUCINA
a small seating area.
Order: The uber photogenic matcha ice cream The family run, red sauce Italian restaurant is an Orange County favorite
stuffed taiyaki with custard and chocolate for families and Cal State Fullerton students. Casual décor, string lights,
cookie crumbles. wooden bar and big-screen TVs add to the ambience.
Walking distance from station: 0.3 mile; Order: Calamari fritti and pasta with chicken covered in rosa sauce.
6 minutes Walking distance from station: 0.2 mile; 4 minutes
:: somisomi.com :: romancucinafullerton.com

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 29


LOSANGELES
Built in 1939, historic Union Station is a Los Angeles icon. With cameos in countless Hollywood films and as
a location for the Academy Awards, the depot is a tourist attraction on its own. Its proximity to downtown’s
most historic and coveted restaurants also make it convenient for Metrolink dining adventures. “The last
great train station,” as it was nicknamed, entered the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. The
combination of Art Deco and Spanish Colonial Revival Architectural styles makes Union Station a feast for the eyes.

LALUZDELDIARESTAURANT CIELITOLINDO
Since 1959, this homestyle Aurora Guerrero
Mexican-American restaurant opened her nondescript
has served countless visitors stand in 1934. Since
to Olvera Street in downtown then, this family owned
Los Angeles. The Berber shop put taquitos on
family managed the restaurant the map. The shredded
for decades with grandson beef rolled in a corn
Gregory taking the reins. After tortilla and lightly
all these years, most of the fried and covered with
menu remains unchanged – green avocado sauce
when something works, why seems ubiquitous with
change it? – with Michoacan California Mexican
Mexican influences. cuisine, but it all started
KEITH BIRMINGHAM, SCNG

Order: Salsa verde chicken on Olvera Street at


with tortillas, chicharrón Cielito Lindo.
tostada, tamales and Picadillo Order: Taquitos!
tacos. Walking distance from
Walking distance from station: 0.2 mile;
station: 0.2 mile; 4 minutes 4 minutes
:: luzdeldia.com :: cielitolindo.org

FUGETSU-DOBAKERYSHOP
This family owned Japanese confectionary shop is one of the oldest running
businesses in Little Tokyo. Known for its pounded sweet rice desserts filled with red
Azuki beans, this small storefront is one of the only places to prepare this delicacy.
Order: Peanut butter manju or seasonal strawberry-infused white bean manju dotted
DEAN MUSGROVE, SCNG

with chocolate are gateway bites.


Walking distance from station: 0.7 mile; 13 minutes
:: fugetsu-do.com

DAIKOKUYALITTLETOKYO CHADOTEAROOMATJAPANESE
PHOENIXBAKERYATCHINATOWN AMERICANNATIONALMUSEUM
The izakaya-style restaurant features an
As one of L.A. Chinatown’s expansive menu ranging from sukiyaki to The museum’s tea room
oldest businesses, Phoenix hamburger with brown gravy over rice. serves an English-style
Bakery holds a special place in The wooden booths and sushi bar give the afternoon tea with tiered
the hearts of locals. restaurant a laid-back atmosphere. But the towers of sandwiches,
Order: Birthday cakes long list of menu items and the speedy pace of scones and pastries. The
flavored with strawberries, the servers keep this Little Tokyo restaurant wide selection of tea options
almond cookies and sticky popular with locals seeking a casual albeit well- and comprehensive menu
sugar “butterflies.” During the executed meal. enhance the experience.
Lunar New Year, mooncakes Order: Daikoku ramen with tonkatsu broth Order: Afternoon tea
are the confections to order. and chashu. service.
Walking distance from Walking distance from station: 0.6 mile; Walking distance from
station: 0.8 mile; 18 minutes 13 minutes station: 0.5 mile; 10 minutes
:: phoenixbakeryinc.com :: group.bishamon-ten.com/daikokuya/littletokyo :: chadotearoom.com

30 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


THEROWDTLA SPRINGSTREET
SMOKEHOUSEBBQ
The Row is 32 acres of land
in downtown Los Angeles This American-style
that houses two Michelin- barbecue joint features
lauded restaurants: Hayato a sampling of Texas,
and Kato. On Sundays, Carolina and Nashville
Smorgasburg Los Angeles influences. The decor is
pops up from 10 a.m. to 4 understated: steel beer
p.m. with L.A. and O.C. food kegs, wooden picnic
vendors: Mama Musubi, tables and a red-painted

PHOTO BY JENI AFUSO, COURTESY OF KATO


Cali Dumpling Co., Cena fence.
Vegan, Broad Street Oyster Order: The Kitchen
Co., Burritos Las Palmas and Sink barbecue sampler
more. (brisket, burnt ends,
Order: At Kato, chef pulled pork, chopped
Jonathan Yao’s exploration of chicken, hot links, beef
Taiwanese-American cuisine. and pork ribs). For
Walking distance from dessert, don’t skimp and
station: 1.5 miles; get the peach cobbler.
30 minutes Walking distance from
:: rowdtla.com station: 0.3 mile;
6 minutes
:: sssmokehouse.com

HOPLISEAFOODRESTAURANT MANUELA
This Cantonese-style This Arts District retreat is a feast for the eyes. Occupying
restaurant located in the the former Globe Mills complex, the restaurant features

COURTESY OF LITTLE JEWEL OF NEW ORLEANS,


heart of Chinatown is great artwork commissioned by Sir Paul McCartney and others.
for groups and offers a The garden is where the restaurant thrives with herbs
banquet-style menu. The and delicate produce. Manuela’s chickens roost nearby,
historic restaurant is known and guests are invited to stroll through the green space as
for its seafood dishes: whole they wait for a table. In the kitchen, chef Kris Tominaga

PHOTO BY OWEN KOLASINSKI


fried fish, calamari, and the takes playful chances with Southern flavors.
famous slippery shrimp. Order: Cream biscuits with Col. Newsom’s aged country
Order: As the name ham, ocean trout tartare and the venison burger.
suggests, seafood is supreme Walking distance from station: 0.8 mile; 18 minutes
at Hop Li. Other Cantonese- :: www.manuela-la.com
style dishes such as the
pan-fried noodles, sizzling
rice soup, Peking duck
COURTESY OF MANUELA

and honey walnut shrimp THELITTLEJEWEL


remain classic menu items. OFNEWORLEANS
Walking distance from
station: 0.7 mile; The Southern-influenced
15 minutes market and delicatessen
:: hopliseafoodlosangeles.com is inspired by the flavors
of NOLA. Boudin,
andouille and tasso
sausages are prepared
PHILIPPETHEORIGINAL in-house. Beignets are
served with chicory
From Dodgers baseball players to the city’s finest, coffee and the list of po’
Angelenos stop into Philippe The Original for the boys ranges from soft
legendary beef dipped sandwich. Since 1908, Philippe’s shell crab to Louisiana
has become synonymous with downtown. The fried catfish.
restaurant moved to its current location in 1951, but it Order: Crescent City
remains a spot for in-the-know Hollywood celebrities oyster po’ boy and spicy
and locals. Creole style Jambalaya
Order: The beef dipped sandwich is the classic way to (available Fridays).
BLAINE OHIGASHI

go. But the lamb dipped sandwich is a must-try only Walking distance from
available at Philippe. station: 0.3 mile;
Walking distance from station: 0.3 mile; 6 minutes 8 minutes
:: philippes.com :: littlejewel.la

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 31


travel

TIN CITY
Experience the
delightful down-market
for budget gourmets
in Paso Robles

BY PAUL HODGINS

A h, wine country! The long drives on bumpy backroads, the pricey tasting rooms that look
like Versailles, the smelly winery dog lounging at your feet. Wouldn’t it be nice to just park
yourself in an interesting urban neighborhood, walk around and sample unusual wines in hip,
casual surroundings, maybe shop for a picnic, and enjoy a really good meal – or even a tasty craft
beer – between tasting room visits?
Welcome to Tin City, emblematic of
a trend that’s transforming California’s
wine world and drawing in people who
wouldn’t be caught dead on a “wine
trail.”
Neighborhoods like Tin City, near
Paso Robles on the Central Coast,
were born out of economic necessity.
In many California wine regions,
success has come at a cost – literally.
Smaller winemakers looking to open
production facilities and tasting
rooms have found themselves priced
out of rapidly appreciating real
estate markets. Rents in downtown
neighborhoods, where off-the-beaten-
track wineries can showcase their
products to a bigger audience, are
often beyond their reach.
And over the last decade, the tastes
and habits of wine consumers have
changed as well. Younger wine lovers
are more interested in an intimate
and casual experience that involves
meeting the winemaker, seeing how
wine is produced as they taste it, and
experiencing wine as part of a larger
sensory, aesthetic and gustatory
experience.
The result has been the emergence
of consumer-friendly wine

PHOTOS BY ANNE VALDESPINO, SCNG


neighborhoods in offbeat urban
locations where the costs of building
and operating a wine-making facility
are more affordable, and where
wineries are only one part of the
scene. You can find them in Santa
Barbara, Lompoc and – perhaps most
successfully – in Paso Robles, a town
in the middle of one of California’s
fastest-growing wine regions, where Turtle Rock Vineyards is a family owned boutique winery that produces about 1,500 cases annually.
Tin City has set an impressive
standard for the concept. 2011, Andrew Jones envisioned it as
An industrial neighborhood near the perfect spot for his new passion
the 101 about four miles south of project, a winery he would call
downtown Paso – home for many Field Recordings. “I was looking for
years to pool builders, air conditioning something affordable and quiet. It was
installers, auto repair shops and a good place for an upstart winery,”
other unglamorous businesses – has Jones said in a 2021 Pix interview.
transformed itself over the last decade A short while later, husband-and-
into a haven for artisanal winemakers, wife team Brian and Stephanie
distillers, brewers and several upscale Terrizzi signed a lease on a nearby
PHOTOS COURTESY TIN CITY, DBA

businesses, including a gourmet building for their offbeat winery,


grocery store and a restaurant with a Giornata. It was a smart move that
Michelin star. gave the young winemakers a unique
Young winemakers looking for a platform for their unusual wines and
bargain-priced facility were the first turned them into trendsetters as
A small selection of Giornata wines and other
to discover the neighborhood. In Tin City took off. pours at Etto Pastificio

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 33


The metamorphosis continued in
2013 when BarrelHouse Brewing Co.
opened the doors to its craft brewery
and rambling gardens, where bands
frequently perform on an impromptu
stage – an old flatbed truck. You’ll also
find other very non-brewery touches,
such as a fantastical artificial waterfall.
BarrelHouse and the small band
of upstart winemakers established a
beachhead, bringing thirsty crowds
to the area for the first time, and it
inspired a growing influx of artisanal
winemakers and other related
businesses. Many of them rented
rustic spaces from Mike English,
owner of a pool company who had
property in the area. New buildings
popped up, imitating the rustic style
of the original structures. Locals
began calling the area Tin City, and
the name stuck.
By the middle of the decade a
second, larger wave of new tenants Etto Pastificio is an Italian provisions store in Tin City that offers groceries such as fresh produce,
began arriving. “We always thought salumi, cheeses and fresh-made pastas. It's owned by Brian Terrizzi and his wife, Stephanie Terrizzi,
this was a really solid up-and-coming makers of Giornata wines, which also are sold at the store.
area, based on the success of (similar
neighborhoods in) Lompoc and Santa
Barbara. It definitely had legs,” says
Jeff Strekas, director of operations and
winegrowing for ONX Wines. Its Tin
City facility opened in 2015.
Strekas likes the entrepreneurial
spirit of Tin City and the mutual
generosity of the winemakers that
have taken up residence. “There are
a lot of synergies with wineries here.
There’s always a forklift right next
door if you need one. We have the
ability to help each other and share
equipment.” That neighborliness also
leads to exchanges of ideas as well –
the upside of any shared workspace
where like-minded and ambitious
people gather.
Some might grumble that Tin City
has become too successful. Parking
spaces can be hard to come by on
the streets and lots that surround
its 33 storefronts. Mostly you’ll find
PHOTOS BY ANNE VALDESPINO, SCNG

respected “garagiste” winemakers in


residence here, but there’s a healthy
mix of other businesses as well: Tin
City Cider Co., the super-popular
restaurant Six Test Kitchen (in
September 2021, it became the first
restaurant in San Luis Obispo County
to earn a Michelin star), Negranti
Creamery, McPhee’s Canteen, and Etto
Pastificio, a gourmet Italian grocery The tasting room at Field Recordings is spacious with high ceilings; another area has a basketball hoop.

34 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


TIN CITY DIRECTORY
Aaron Levo
3050 Limestone Way, Paso Robles; 2975 Limestone Way, Paso Robles;
805-369-2037 805-400-5994
:: aaronwines.com :: levowine.com

Al Lago Wines McPhee’s Canteen


PHOTO COURTESY TIN CITY, DBA

480 Marquita Ave., Suite B, Paso Robles; 3070 Limestone Way, Paso Robles;
805-235-1947 805-369-2787
:: allagowines.com :: mcpheescanteen.com
BarrelHouse Brewing Co. MCV Wines
3055 Limestone Way, Paso Robles; 3773 Ruth Way, Suite A, Paso Robles;
805-296-1128 805-712-4647
:: barrelhousebrewing.com :: mcvwines.com
Benom Wines Monochrome Wines
3050 Limestone Way, Paso Robles; 3075 Blue Rock Road, Paso Robles;
805-369-2036
run by Brian and Stephanie Terrizzi. 805-674-2160
:: benomwines.com
:: monochromewines.com
The feel of Tin City is industrial Brian Benson Cellars
chic with a touch of farmhouse. It’s 2915 Limestone Way, Paso Robles; Negranti Creamery
805-296-3838 2989 Limestone Way, Paso Robles;
cozy and casual. Metal siding is the 805-369-2663
:: brianbensoncellars.com
dominant building material, but :: negranticreamery.com
its hard-edged look is softened by Cloak & Dagger Wines
Ruth Way, Paso Robles; 310-877-0210 Nicora
gentle pastel colors and the wineries’ 2945 Limestone Way, Paso Robles;
:: cloakanddaggerwines.com
whimsical and imaginative logos. 805-400-0039
CONCUR Wines :: nicorawine.com
Some winemakers have indulged in
flights of fancy in their designs. The 2945 Limestone Way, Paso Robles;
805-242-9463 Olivas de Oro
tasting room at Field Recordings, :: concurwines.com 2989-B Limestone Way, Paso Robles;
805-227-4223
for example, has been meticulously :: olivasdeoro.com
Desparada
constructed to look like a high school 3060 Limestone Way, Paso Robles;
gymnasium, down to realistic details 805-434-9611 ONX Wines
:: desparada.com 2910 Limestone Way, Paso Robles;
such as team pennants and lockers 805-434-5607
lining the walls. Emercy Wines :: onxwines.com
Murals and other works of art dot 3775 Ruth Way, Suite A, Paso Robles;
Powell Mountain Cellars
the Tin City landscape. Even the 805-221-5840
:: emercywines.com 3050 Blue Rock Road, Paso Robles;
nearby railroad tracks seem to have 805-434-8097
End of the Day Wines :: powellmountaincellars.com
been included in the design aesthetic.
On some patios, you can watch 2915 Limestone Way, Paso Robles; 805-237-1480 Sans Liege Wines
:: endofthedaywines.com 2995 Limestone Way, Paso Robles;
passenger and freight trains whiz by
805-773-2770
just a few feet away. Etto Pastificio :: sansliege.com
One of Tin City’s biggest attractions 3070 Limestone Way, Paso Robles;
805-400-3193 Six Test Kitchen
is convenience. You can hit several :: ettopastificio.com
3075 Blue Rock Road, Paso Robles
tasting rooms, sip a craft beer for :: sixtestkitchen.com
Field Recordings
contrast, eat a great meal, and even 3070 Limestone Way, Suite C, Paso Robles;
do a little grocery shopping without 805-503-9660 The Fableist
:: fieldrecordingswine.com 3005 Limestone Way, Suite A, Paso Robles;
getting into your car. 805-246-1431
“This is an area with lots of different Giornata :: fableistwine.com
things to do,” Strekas says. “I think 470 Marquita Ave., Suite A, Paso Robles;
Tin City Cider Co.
we do see a more diverse crowd here 805-434-3075
:: giornatawine.com 3005 Limestone Way, Suite A, Paso Robles;
than at the winery, and it gives us 805-293-6349
Hubba Wines :: tincitycider.com
the chance to introduce ourselves to
2929 Limestone Way, Paso Robles;
people who otherwise might not be 805-550-8190 Turtle Rock Vineyards
into wine culture.” :: hubbawines.com 3075 Blue Rock Road, Unit A, Paso Robles;
805-674-1889
But perhaps Tin City’s best asset is :: turtlerockvineyards.com
Jacob Toft
that it’s a much-needed antidote to the 2929 Limestone Way, Suite A, Paso Robles;
traditional wine country experience. 805-550-1633 Union Sacré Winery
:: jacobtoft.com 460 Marquita Ave., Paso Robles;
It makes a sometimes rarified world 805-369-2777
more approachable, less clubby, and Kaleidos :: unionsacre.com
part of a larger and more diverse 3075 Blue Rock Road, Paso Robles;
805-226-0828 Wine Shine
landscape. And you won’t run across a :: kaleidoswine.com 3064 Limestone Way, Paso Robles;
single winery dog, overpriced gift shop 805-286-4453
Level 3 Wines :: wineshine.com
or pushy wine club salesperson. 2915 Limestone Way, Paso Robles; 805-238-2719
:: level3wines.com

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 35


casinos

CASINO
survival guide
BY JENNY PETERS Here’s what to plan

W
eekend getaways are a perfect
way to shift perspective
for a weekend
escape, whether it’s a

WILL LESTER, SCNG


and recharge your internal
batteries — which is
especially true when you add the chance jaunt to a local casino
to return home wealthier than when you Yaamava’ Casino
left. That’s why we’ve put together this or a trek to Sin City
casino survival guide, to give you a look
at the Southern California properties
within easy striking distance as well as
a curated glimpse of a few of our Las
Vegas favorites. No matter which of these
places resonates for you, there’s one thing
all casinos have in common: the bells
and clangs, cheers and groans, and all
the other generally noisy mayhem that
defines the gambling experience.

CALIFORNIA’S
TRIBALCASINOS
There’s much to enjoy at the 66 tribal
casinos found throughout California,
including 29 here in SoCal. But there
are a few things you will not find in the
Golden State’s tribal casinos. There’s no
sports betting allowed (although that’s
expected to change come November’s
election), and when you play anything in
a tribal casino — from slots to card or dice
games — you will never be served a free
alcoholic beverage. By law, tribal casinos
can sell you a cocktail, but can never give
you one for free.
Here is our guide to the best that SoCal
has to offer:

36 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


YAAMAVA’ RESORT & CASINO AT SAN MANUEL
Tucked up against the San Bernardino Mountains is the
casino with the new name and new look. Yaamava’ is
the word for “spring” in the Serrano people’s language,
marking the San Manuel Band of Mission Indians’ return
to their traditional roots.
The casino began as a bingo hall in 1986; today, it is a
luxurious resort complete with 700,000 square feet of
places to gamble, dine, lounge by the pool or enjoy a spa
experience.
Still centered on slot machines (there are 6,500 to
choose from, the largest grouping of slots in the Western
United States), Yaamava’ also offers 123 table games.
You’ll find five high-limit gaming rooms, all removed
from the clamor of the main casino floor. When you’re
ready to dine, don’t miss the Pines Steakhouse, an elegant
place where you can pair a delicious filet mignon with an
ounce of Ossetra caviar or perhaps a pile of king crab legs.
With the recent addition of a 17-story hotel, the
property boasts a large swimming pool (along with the
requisite cabana scene), an excellent poolside café (try the
Cochinita Pibil pulled pork nachos) and that Serrano Spa,
which just might keep you away from the tables for an
extended period of time. In April, Yaamava’ launched its
new four-level, 2,500-seat entertainment theater with a
performance by the Red Hot Chili Peppers.
:: yaamava.com

AGUA CALIENTE CASINOS


Entrance to an Agua Out in the desert, the Agua Caliente
Caliente casino Band of Cahuilla Indians operates three
different casinos, with the Rancho
Mirage location also serving as a resort,
which you’ll spot right off Interstate
10 heading east. In Palm Springs and
Cathedral City, the Agua Caliente
locations are casinos that feature plenty
of slot machines, as well as table games
and high-limit rooms.
The Palm Springs casino is in the
middle of town, making it a short walk
from local hotels, so it’s easy to enjoy
a night of gambling or dining at The
Steakhouse, where Executive Chef
Kieran Fleming cooks up both steaks
COURTESY AGUA CALIENTE CASINO CATHEDRAL CITY

and seafood. The super-fun Cascade


Lounge nightclub transforms into
various iterations as the week goes by,
so feel free to pick your favorite genre –
whether it’s blues, jazz or Latin music,
or comedy.
Agua Caliente’s Cathedral City casino
is the newest of the tribe’s growing
gaming venues; it even offers cornhole
competitions and karaoke, if you’re
looking for things to do other than
gambling.
:: aguacalientecasinos.com

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 37


LASVEGAS
WATCHARA PHOMICINDA, SCNG

The lure of Las Vegas is strong, despite the often traffic-


snarled trek up the I-15 that can be quite daunting on
Friday nights, especially when it’s a holiday weekend.
We’ve chosen to highlight a few of the newest casinos
and some old favorites.

Chef Andre Alto presents a Mexican RESORTS WORLD


appetizer, left, and an enchiladas The first new casino
tradicionales entree at the new build in 10 years on
1882 Cantina Mexican restaurant at the Strip, Resorts
World has to be seen

ETHAN MILLER, GETTY IMAGES


Pechanga Resort Casino
to be believed. A
PECHANGA massive place where
RESORT CASINO you can lose yourself
Near Temecula wine country in 117,000-square-
is the massive Pechanga feet of gambling
Resort Casino, which opened possibilities, you’ll
in 2002. Owned by the find this luxurious
Pechanga Band of Luseño resort on the north
Indians, it is the largest end of the famous roadway. It’s a winning combination of
casino in California. high-end rooms and suites, all centered around an infinity
If your weekend getaway pool, with a hot scene happening both day and night when
tastes run beyond the casino the Zouk Nightclub goes off with a bang. Check out Chef
(which does offer 4,500- Shaun Hergatt’s Caviar Bar for a unique dining experience.
plus slots, 154 table games If plant-based fare is more to your liking, don’t miss
including roulette, baccarat, Crossroads Kitchen, the first fully vegetarian restaurant to
craps and blackjack, as grace the Vegas Strip.
well as high-limit rooms), :: rwlasvegas.com
this is a practically perfect
home base. You can spend
part of the day meandering
to nearby wineries for a THE VENETIAN
few tastings – put Wilson RESORT LAS VEGAS
Creek, Leoness Cellars and Opened way back in 1999,
Miramonte on your list – The Venetian Resort Las
and still have plenty of time Vegas is one of Sin City’s
to indulge in the resort’s classics, an all-suite resort
25,000-square-foot spa, that has all the gaming you
which offers treatments as could ever want (including a
well as saunas, steam rooms race and sports book). What
and more. The Cove is the The Venetian excels at is
resort’s massive four-pool fine dining, with a collection
swimming area, boasting of restaurants that will
waterslides, whirlpools, make you stand up and take
cabanas and even a swim-up notice. Choose Chef Thomas
bar. Keller’s Bouchon for sublime
Back in the casino, French brasserie bites, let
distractions beyond Chef Wolfgang Puck entice
gambling abound, ranging you with steak and seafood
from dining at the new 1882 at Cut, have an incredible
Cantina and the classic Umi Greek/Mediterranean
Sushi & Oyster Bar to hitting gastronomic experience at
the concert hall, comedy club Costa Spilladis’ estiatorio
and other entertainment Milos and don’t miss Brera
venues. Each January, Osteria, where Angelo
Pechanga hosts a traditional Auriana and Eduardo Perez
powwow, open for everyone will make you rethink what
to attend. great Italian cooking means.
:: pechanga.com :: venetianlasvegas.com

38 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


WESTGATE LAS VEGAS
When it comes to history,
Westgate Las Vegas is
part of the city’s golden
history. It opened as the
International Hotel, where
Elvis Presley created the
“Vegas residency” idea for
musicians by performing
636 shows over a seven-
year run (while living in
one of the over-the-top
French suites on the top
floor). Today, The Westgate
is where Barry Manilow
continues that star-
studded musical tradition.
From Liberace to Barbra
Streisand, Reba McEntire
to Wayne Newton, this has
long been the place for top
acts to perform. There’s
also a full casino and sports
book as well as a comedy

ETHAN MILLER, GETTY IMAGES


club, magician’s theater,
luxury spa, swimming
pools and numerous dining
choices — all of which
make The Westgate’s
current incarnation as
Resorts World interesting as its past.
:: westgateresorts.com

The Venetian

COURTESY OF VIRGIN HOTELS LAS VEGAS

VIRGIN HOTELS LAS VEGAS


Don’t look for the Hard Rock Resort in Las Vegas these
days, for that venerable hotel has made way for Richard
Branson and his Virgin Hotels brand. Branson took
ETHAN MILLER, GETTY IMAGES

over the old digs of the Hard Rock and transformed it


into what many are calling the place “where cool kids
kick back,” so expect a full-service casino run by the
Mohegan Tribe, a rollicking Elia Beach Club cabana
with a music scene inspired by the cosmopolitan
Greek island Mykonos, and music venues energized by
Branson’s original Virgin Music label.
:: virginhotelslv.com

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 39


drinks

MOCKTAIL
mania
Mixologists across SoCal are
redefining cocktail culture with
enticing non-alcoholic options
BY CRAWFORD MCCARTHY

A lot of us changed our relationship to alcohol in these


past two years.
When California entered its lockdown, almost universally
on March 16, 2020 — the day before one of the most
significant drinking holidays of the year, St. Patrick’s
Day — many connections in our lives shifted drastically.
Garages became home gyms, living rooms turned into
schools, and every home suddenly became an office. And,
as restaurants were locked into to-go only, our houses also
became dining halls and bars. These alterations to daily
life not only changed the way we consumed alcohol, they
changed our relationship to it — and for some, not always
for the better.
Retail sales skyrocketed as bars’ doors remained
shuttered. Happy hour was no longer around the corner
from the office, but from our couches on Zoom calls. Yet,
as time went on, many of us realized that what we missed
most about drinking culture wasn’t the alcohol, but the
people — we missed our relationships. Many started to
turn to non-alcoholic options.
Call them what you will — mocktails, No-ABV, clean,
etcetera. No matter the name, demand has risen as people
push toward healthier lives. As we meet again in person,
the question is, is there a cocktail culture for those who
want to drink but without alcohol? A genuinely well-
crafted drink, and something of value to enjoy?
LEONARD ORTIZ, SCNG

Thankfully, yes.

Tower of Peshawar mocktail from


Khan Saab Desi Craft Kitchen in Fullerton

40 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


KING OF THE CRAFT
When it comes to designated drivers,
dry January participants, or those who
don’t want alcohol for personal reasons,
they no longer are relegated to soda
water with lime and sent on their way.
One of the best things to come out
of the cocktail Renaissance over the
last 15 years is respect for those who
don’t want to imbibe but still enjoy
a great drink. You can have a quality
cocktail experience without alcohol, and
Southern California has many options to
do so littered about its landscape. One of
the most notable is the Michelin Guide-
awarded Khan Saab Desi Craft Kitchen
in Fullerton where the bar is entirely
non-alcoholic.
“When we opened Khan Saab in
February of 2020, our non-alcoholic
bar program was the first of its kind in
Southern California and only the fourth
in the nation,” says Chef Imran Ali
Mookhi.
He explains that as a 100% halal
restaurant, where everything is prepared
in accordance with Muslim law, they
aim to stay within halal tradition while
still offering the creative and elevated
libations one might expect from a
traditional cocktail, just minus the
liquor.
“Our mixologist, Ahmad Hosseini,
consulted with expert bartenders when
developing our menu of mocktails, made
with premium non-alcoholic spirits,
fresh juices and nectars, as well as
locally sourced ingredients. Presentation
is also a major aspect of our bar
program and can be seen in our Smoked
Negroni, which comes in a smoke-filled
dome, allowing the beverage to be
infused with flavors of naturally smoked
woods and creating an experience that
you might find at high-end bars.”
The Tower of Peshawar cocktail is
another excellent example of how far
the mocktail has come: A wonderfully
bright, herbaceous drink, it utilizes
Seedlip Garden 108 as its base “spirit,”
and layering in cucumber, basil and
elderflower tonic. It shows that a
mocktail is more than sweet juices —
more than just a virgin piña colada (not
that there is anything wrong with that,
mind you).

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 41


ESCAPIST FUN Thunderbolt, Accomplice,
If you’re going for true Death & Co., Bathtub Gin Naswari
escapism, it is mandatory and The Girl & The Goat mocktail
to stop at Strong Water in are all must-stops in Los from Khan
Anaheim. Aside from being Angeles. These places will Saab Desi
one of the most immersively have no problem helping you Craft
designed bars in Southern get your non-buzz on, and Kitchen in
California, Strong Water will they are all immensely stylish Fullerton
have you set sail to happiness and enjoyable places to boot.

LEONARD ORTIZ, SCNG


with mocktails, such as the But perhaps a jaunt to
Mocka Mocka Mojito, with a Riverside is what you need.
no-ABV spirit lime and mint Check out the secret menu at
syrup. Palenque by Mezcal; any of
With any good drink, it the margaritas can be made
comes down to balance and as mocktails, plus there’s a

DIRECTORY
quality ingredients. Solstice slew of delicious agua frescas.
in Irvine is a prime example Stopping by the recently re-
of respecting seasonal flavors opened W. Wolfskill nearby
and incorporating them into also is recommended. Your guide to finding places mentioned in the story:
their mocktails — or, as they For those looking for a
call them, “un-cocktails.” day trip south to Oceanside, Accomplice Hollywood; 323-978-2170
Their star, named Un-Tequila Carte Blanche is the stop 3811 Grand View Blvd., Los :: graciasmadre.co
Cocktail 1, contains aloe for you before or after your Angeles; 310-574-7610
juice, house-made grenadine, beach day. There is truly no :: littlefattyla.com/ Khan Saab Desi
hibiscus tea, sage, jalapeño lack of options to enjoy, no accomplice Craft Kitchen
essence, lime juice, sage matter which direction you’re 229 E. Commonwealth Ave.,
leaves and dried hibiscus heading. Bathtub Gin Unit A, Fullerton;
petals. 7174 Melrose Ave., Los 714-853-1081
Gracias Madre, which has FOR THE HOMEBODIES Angeles; 323-433-7960 :: khansaaboc.com
locations in both Newport For those who still want :: bathtubginnyc.com/
Beach and West Hollywood, to enjoy at home, there’s location/bathtub-gin-la Maestro
also features bar programs a wealth of companies 110 E. Union St., Pasadena;
bustling with flavor that with no-ABV products to Broadway by 626-787-1512
always consider a non- enjoy while still supporting Amar Santana :: maestropasadena.com
drinker’s needs. Their “Piña” local businesses. Greenbar 328 Glenneyre St., Laguna
mocktail — with pineapple, Distillery and AMASS Beach; 949-715-8234 Palenque by Mezcal
lemon, chili mango tea and Botanics, both in Los :: broadwayby 3737 Main St., Riverside;
spicy salt — is a crowd- Angeles, offer non-alcoholic amarsantana.com 951-888-2240
pleaser. products packed with :: palenquekitchen.com/
flavor (AMASS Riverine Carte Blanche location/palenque
COURTESY OF GRACIAS MADRE

is my personal go-to). Bistro & Bar


Monday Spirits, based in 339 N. Cleveland St., The Raymond 1886
Southern California, offers Oceanside; 760-231-5370 1250 S Fair Oaks Ave.,
a gin, mezcal and whiskey :: eatcarteblanche.com Pasadena; 626-441-3136
alternative. :: theraymond.com
Whatever product or Death & Co. LA
location you choose, you are 818 E. 3rd St., Los Angeles; Solstice Seasonal
guaranteed a good time. Self- No phone number available. Kitchen + Bar
The bar at Gracias Madre in Newport care is paramount these days, :: deathandcompany.com/ 18555 Jamboree Road,
Beach and opting for non-alcoholic dcdtla Irvine; 949-241-7088
options is another form of :: dineatsolstice.com
BELLY UP TO THE BAR that and a great alternative Girl & The Goat
Menus are fickle things that to have. 555-3 Mateo St., Los Strong Water
change with the season, so Southern California is rife Angeles; 213-799-4628 270 S. Clementine Blvd.,
perhaps an expertly trained with talent behind the bar, :: girlandthegoat.com/ Anaheim; 714-829-4060
bar program should be the so explore, enjoy and find los-angeles :: strongwateranaheim.com
destination marker instead of what makes you feel best –
a singular drink. Tried-and- just remember to tip your Gracias Madre Thunderbolt
true cocktail staples can be bartenders. Cheers! (Newport Beach) 1263 W. Temple St., Los
found throughout Southern 1617 Westcliff Drive, Angeles; 213-372-5099
California. Crawford McCarthy is the host of “The Newport Beach; :: thunderboltla.com
Broadway by Amar Santana 949-386-8100
in Laguna Beach, and both Best Ceats Podcast” — a Southern
:: graciasmadre.co W. Wolfskill
The Raymond 1886 and California-focused hospitality podcast — 4281 Main St., Riverside;
Maestro in Pasadena are all as well as a content creator and freelance Gracias Madre (LA) 951-374-1176
impeccable establishments. writer for several publications. 8905 Melrose Ave, West :: wwolfskill.com

42 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


home tour

DAVID CRANE, SCNG


Ludo Lefebvre's dining room in his Los Angeles home includes a floor-to-ceiling bookshelf.

valuable tip: “Make sure you create

CHEF LUDO KEEPS IT enough space to cook and wash

SIMPLE
dishes, just as if you were in
a restaurant.”
After training in France for 12
years with a variety of masterful
chefs, Lefebvre came to Los Angeles
and was soon awarded the Mobil
Travel Guide Five Star Award at two
different restaurants, L’Orangerie in
1999 and 2000 and Bastide in 2006.
He has been credited with birthing
the pop-up restaurant concept and
BY SUSAN HORNIK igniting its viability as a business
model with his restaurant tour,
“LudoBites,” which ran from 2007-
You might expect a master chef who co-hosts and co-judges a 2012.
cooking television series to have an elaborate home kitchen, but The veteran chef says he’s been
having a blast co-hosting/judging
Ludo Lefebvre has more of a modest French aesthetic. his new TBS show, “Rat in the
Kitchen.” The series follows a mix of
“It’s not big, but it’s functional,” acknowledges the classically professional chefs and home cooks
trained culinary star who enjoys cooking in his Encino kitchen. as they compete in creative cooking
challenges for a cash prize.
“I love using my beautiful stove cook at home is roasted “crispy and But there’s a twist: the contestants
and my microplane grating tools,” he juicy” chicken and potatoes. “I love have to avert the meddling of an
says. “I am obsessed with citrus, and steaming potatoes! I absolutely love to undercover “rat,” who is determined
love how well it works with fruits and cook for my friends and family.” to sabotage the dishes and undermine
vegetables.” For anyone working on sprucing their victory.
One of Lefebvre’s favorite dishes to up their kitchen, Lefebvre offers a “It’s such a fun show; I have loved

MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 43


meeting everyone, giving them the weekends, to the markets in Chef Ludo Lefebvre in the kitchen
advice, and of course, trying out Hollywood or Santa Monica. Those of his Los Angeles home
some great food with my co-host, places are so cool and so amazing! A
Natasha Leggero. It has been a great lot of good stuff! Last time I went I got once or twice each year. “When I was
experience!” he says. zucchini, goat cheese and fish. That’s young I didn’t travel enough, so I
When the French chef isn’t working really where I get my inspiration really enjoy going to new countries.
DAVID CRANE, SCNG

on his show, you can find Lefebvre from. It’s really all about finding the I love hearing what people like to eat
shopping at the local farmers freshest ingredients so you can make and drink.”
markets, buying fresh vegetables, fish, great meals.” Look out for the veteran chef to
meat, cheese and chicken. Always looking for inspiration, open a new restaurant in Los Angeles
“I like to go with my kids on Lefevre still heads back to France by the end of the year.

44 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


first person
Sunset at
Kilimanjaro

Trust exercise
Finding faith in humanity on a trip to Tanzania

BY BROOKE STAGGS Magembe’s aging but meticulously maintained car.


I’d missed seeing the look.

A
s the dim lights of downtown Moshi We were in Tanzania for a trip I’d longed to take
disappeared in our rearview mirror, my since I was a child, growing up among squirrels
husband squeezed my hand across the and deer in Big Bear while dreaming of giraffes
backseat and flashed me the look. and elephants in Africa. We originally had a safari
The sun had set hours ago on this town at the booked to celebrate my 40th birthday, which,
base of Mount Kilimanjaro. Our new friend
miserably, fell in fall 2020. We postponed a year.
Magembe drove – and drove and drove and drove –
And in September 2021, fully vaccinated and tested
promising a taste of local nightlife ahead.
multiple times over, we were fortunate enough to
In the glow of the dashboard, my husband’s face
reflected what I was feeling: We either made a celebrate our 10th anniversary with this trip of a
horrible mistake, or we’re gonna have one hell lifetime just before the Omicron wave.
of a story. It was the first trip we’d taken since the pandemic
Every true traveler has surely made that face at hit. While I’d traveled to six continents and hiked
least once. By “true traveler,” I mean those who into the Amazon and jumped out of an airplane,
don’t stick to the well-worn tourist circuits. Who I found myself feeling more anxious than usual
GETTY IMAGES

at least occasionally venture off on some sideways on this adventure – and it wasn’t just the virus.
adventures – much like this one, which left my Watching our collective response to the pandemic
husband and I exchanging that look in the back of had left me feeling a bit jaded about humanity.

PREMiUM
MAY 2022 ♦ SCNG PREMIUM 45
Of course, my day job probably didn’t help. I cover state determination, even coupled with careful precautions, can
and federal politics for the Orange County Register. Don’t guarantee we won’t get the virus. And if we do, it’s not just us
tell the lawmakers on my beat, but while I’m a naturally we’re putting at risk.
curious person, I’m also pretty trusting. During 16 years as Then there’s my work again. Somewhere amid fights over
a journalist, I’ve trained myself to be more skeptical and to masks and elections, I accepted that it didn’t matter how
question people’s motives. So, it can feel like a constant tug- many experts I interviewed or how clear I tried to make the
of-war between being a sucker and being cynical. information; there simply were facts some readers weren’t
The latter has been winning out in recent years, given how going to accept.
partisan everything has become. I get my share of trolls. Both situations had left me feeling powerless. But I knew,
There have been some sexist email rants I won’t repeat. Even once again, that travel could help. And I carried all of those
some death threats. In short, my faith in humanity was at an hopes and fears as I slid into Magembe’s backseat with
all-time low when we boarded a plane to Tanzania. my husband that September night, on our first full day in
Always before, travel has helped. And there’s research to Tanzania.
explain why. We’d met Magembe 12 hours before, when he pulled into
People who’ve visited multiple countries tend to have the red clay driveway of our Moshi hotel. We’d hired him
a greater sense of “generalized trust,” according a 2013 to lead us on a hike to the Materuni waterfall and a tour of
study, “Does Travel Broaden the Mind?” This “belief in a nearby coffee farm. After hours of chit-chat that turned
the benevolence of human nature” is less about particular into deeper conversation, and laughter as we slipped along
interactions along the way, which can of course be positive muddy clay paths and toasted banana wine, we felt we’d
or negative, and more about interacting with diverse groups made a new friend.
of people. While a focus on finding similarities can be We mentioned we wanted to grab a drink later that night,
comforting, the study found the more travelers recognize and Magembe jumped at the chance to show us his favorite
and appreciate the differences in foreign cultures, the local spot. So, we made plans over WhatsApp to reconnect.
more that sense of generalized Expecting a quick trip to a nearby
trust grows. bar, we started to question our life
Having more faith in the choices after Magembe had been
humans around you is “a key driving for 30 minutes with no
element of successful societies,” businesses in sight. Suddenly, a
the researchers wrote. Generalized large, open-air bar emerged on the
trust is linked to greater civic outskirts of Moshi town. Five hours
engagement, economic growth and multiple karaoke performances
COURTESY BROOKE STAGGS

and social capital, where people later, we’d had a night to remember,
of all backgrounds can work making more new friends along
together toward common goals. So, the way. (Pro tip: “Sweet Caroline”
between isolation brought on by is a sure hit in Tokyo, not so much
the pandemic and hyper-partisan in Moshi. Crickets…) Magambe
times that have driven us further dropped us safely back at our hotel.
into our own bubbles, it’s little Chris and Brooke Staggs pose for a picture outside their We tipped him, unable to repay him
wonder our sense of generalized camp before setting off on a safari excursion in Serengeti for all he’d given us.
trust is floundering. National Park during a fall 2021 trip. Of course, no single trip can fully
Perhaps even more concerning, heading into our Tanzania restore rattled confidence or faith in humankind. But, as
trip, I’d been feeling a lack of confidence in one particular that 2013 study showed, it’s the breadth of encounters that
human – me. add up.
If my years of traveling have taught me anything, it’s that In my tally, I count Kim Anh, a waitress at a restaurant
I can get myself through many sticky situations. There was in Dalat, Vietnam, who took friends and I on a tour of her
the time guards started waving their guns and screaming university and, by day’s end, told us, “You are my happiness.”
at us in Vietnamese when we tried to take photos of the I count Alfredo, who cleared a snake from our tent in the
arched gate along the road into Cambodia. Also, the time Amazon and sang a traditional song as fireflies glowed
our horseback guide in the mountains above Cusco in Peru around us. I count Magembe.
dropped us off on a remote street just after dusk, or when Tanzania reminded me that some of my most cherished
I got pick-pocketed on the streets of San Jose, Costa Rica. moments from trips over the years – the ones that sustain
These moments rattled me, but I dealt with them and came me when work or a pandemic have me homebound – have
out the other side feeling more confident and emboldened to come from times I’ve taken a chance and had some faith in
keep exploring. people. And it helped me realize I still want to give people
The pandemic is something else. No amount of self- that chance.

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46 SCNG PREMIUM ♦ MAY 2022


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