DK Eyewitness Travel Guide San Francisco & Northern California

eyewitness travel
san francisco
&
northern
california
eyewitness travel
san francisco
&
northern
california
Contents
Produced by Pardoe Blacker Publishing Limited, Lingfield, Surrey
Project Editor Linda Williams
How to Use this Guide 6
Art Editor Kelvin Barratt
Editors Jo Bourne, Irena Hoare, Esther Labi, Molly Lodge
Designers Jon Eland, Nick Raven
Picture Research Jill Decet, Lindsay Kefauvre
Consultant Don George
Main Contributors
Jamie Jensen, Barry Parr
Contributors
Dawn Douglas, Shirley Streshinsky
Photographers
Neil Lukas, Andrew Mckinney
Illustrators
Arcana Studios, Dean Entwhistle, Nick Lipscombe
Printed and bound in Malaysia.
First American Edition, 1994

16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Early cartoon of gold prospector (1848)
Published in the United States by: DK Publishing,
345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Introducing San
Reprinted with revisions 1997 (twice), 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003,
2004, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 Francisco
Copyright © 1994, 2016 DK Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
Great Days in
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part
San Francisco 10
of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system,
or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright Putting San Francisco
owner and the above publisher of this book. on the Map 14
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
ISSN 1542-1554 San Francisco’s

ISBN 978-1-4654-4129-4 Earthquakes 20
Throughout this book, floors are referred to in accordance
with American usage; ie the “first floor” is at ground level. The History of
San Francisco 22
San Francisco at
a Glance 36
San Francisco Through

the Year 50
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked annually.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Front cover main image: The majestic Golden Gate Bridge, shrouded in fog Ghirardelli Square, Fisherman’s Wharf
The magnificent Golden Gate Bridge at night

San Francisco
Area By Area
The 49-Mile Scenic
Drive 56
Presidio 58
Mendocino in Northern California
Pacific Heights and
the Marina 68
A Two-Day Tour Survival Guide
Fisherman’s Wharf and to Mendocino 190
Practical Information 266
North Beach 78
The Napa Wine
Country 192 Getting to
Chinatown and
San Francisco 276
Nob Hill 96
Lake Tahoe 198
Financial District and
Union Square 108 Yosemite National
Park 202
Civic Center 124
Travelers’ Needs
Haight Ashbury and
the Mission 132 Where to Stay 208
Dim sum
Where to Eat
and Drink 216 Getting Around
San Francisco 280
Shopping 232
San Francisco
Entertainment in Street Finder 290
San Francisco 246
General Index 309
Children’s San
Francisco 262 Acknowledgments 322
Stow Lake, Golden Gate Park
Golden Gate Park

and Land’s End 144
Farther Afield 160
Five Guided Walks 172
Northern
California
Exploring Northern
California 186
A Two-Day Tour
to Carmel 188 Haas-Lilienthal House,
Pacific Heights
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This Eyewitness Travel Guide helps you get the with photographs, maps, and illustrations.
most from your stay in San Francisco with the The Northern California section features
minimum of difficulty. The opening section, recommended places of interest in the region
Introducing San Francisco, locates the city plus two suggested excursions. Tips for
geographically, sets modern San Francisco in restaurants, shopping, hotels, entertainment,
its historical context, and describes events sports, and children’s activities are found
through the entire year. San Francisco at a in the section on Travelers’ Needs. The final
Glance is an overview of the city’s main section, Survival Guide, contains practical
attractions. Section two, San Francisco Area advice on everything from personal security
by Area, covers the important city sights, to using public transportation.
Finding Your Way Around the Sightseeing Section

Each of the eight sightseeing areas in the city is illustrating the heart of the area. Finding your way
color-coded for easy reference. Every chapter around each chapter is made simple by the
opens with an introduction to the part of San numbering system used throughout. The most
Francisco it covers, describing its history and important sights are covered in detail on two or
character, followed by a Street-by-Street map more full pages.
SAN FRANCISCO AREA BY AREA  59
Each area has

PRESIDIO
Once the nation’s premier army post, the offers experiences for everyone. Bike along
color-coded
thumb tabs.
Presidio, located in a corner of the city the shoreline, glimpse rare birds and native
bounded by beach, bluff, and stunning wildflowers, learn about architecture and
views, has been transformed into a new California history, take in a concert and great
kind of National Park site. Thousands of meal, spend the night in former officers’
people visit every year to enjoy a vibrant quarters at the Inn at the Presidio, picnic on
mix of museums, restaurants, events, trails, the historic Main Parade Ground, or relax at
and recreational destinations. The Presidio one of the eight scenic overlooks.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings
1 Palace of Fine Arts
3 Presidio Officers’ Club
Churches and Temples
7 Holy Virgin Cathedral
9 Temple Emanu-El 1
Restaurants
see pp224–7
Aziza
A locator map shows A suggested
5 Golden Gate Bridge pp64–7
8 Clement Street
Museums and Galleries
Parks and Gardens
6 Baker Beach
2
3
4
Burma Superstar
Gaspare’s Pizza House & Italian
King of Thai
where you are in route takes in the most
relation to other areas interesting and attractive
5 Pizzetta 211
2 The Walt Disney Family Museum
6 The Presidio Social Club
4 Fort Point and Crissy Field
7 The Tipsy Pig
8 The Warming Hut
in the city center. streets in the area.

GO L
M A R I
N
E
DE
N
GA
LE
B O U VA R
TE
D R
D
BR
See also Street Finder

I V
ID
D RIVE
N C OLN
ST
GE
N
maps 1–3 ALLE
E
INE
RE MAR
FIELD
F
ST
O EW CRISS Y T E
AY STREE
R
E Y MASO
N IV
DR
R IC
LI
A OLD H
E
YL
V
E
AR
D O LINC
DS
OL N
D
O
ST
AV
RA LS
N
H I G H WAY
LV

E
E

RY
BL
B 90 SAN FRANCISCO AREA BY AREA FISHERMAN’S WHARF AND NORTH BEACH 91
AV
VD
ME
UE
T
LN
ON
E
LINCO
GO
EN
R AC
SF NATIONAL
NT
AV
KOB
BE MILITARY
MO
IO
E
AV E N SID
R
BL
U
CEMETERY
PRE
R Y TE
PA C I F I C
VD
TO
ST
NS
Street-by-Street: Telegraph Hill

OCEAN E LO MB A R D
AV
u . Coit Tower
FU
NT
E San Francisco Bay

AV
1
S IMON
RD
I N FA
DS
RN A The frescoes inside were
HUR
LO O
D PI P
B A K
BA
PR
W
MACART
AS
painted by local artists in
L E VA R
PE
LOO E S I D IO
HI
AR D
WA
Telegraph Hill was named after the semaphore
R
P S
RLIN
V
BO U L E
SI
PER
NG
1933, as part of the

E R
SH
BL
HI
FISHERMAN’S WHARF AND

L Y O N
TO
B LVD
BE
N
installed on its crest in 1850 to alert merchants of the
EY
PRESIDIO
NG
NORTH BEACH
Federal Art Project set up
RD M
IN
B OU
D
TER CHA
R
G
TO
N
B OU
arrival of ships. Today’s hill falls away abruptly on its
D R IVE
by President Roosevelt.
Y
PRESIDIO
LE V A R
S T R E
Eeastern side, where it was dynamited to provide rocks

ARMY GOLF
PRESI
N
BAT
COL
COURSE E N U CHINATOWN AND

S T R E
A V
D
for landfill and paving. There are steep paths on this Bus stop (No. 39) NOB HILL
W E DEM E
E T
C
I F I
LIN
LAUR
DIO
PA C
SPRUC
CHERR
JAMES D
CLIFF AV E
E S T side of the hill, bordered by gardens. The western side
E T
PHELAN MOUNTAIN W T
LAKE STREE
A
YE
BEACH H O WA R ST C L AY
SE
EL
slopes more gradually into “Little Italy,” the area around Locator Map
AVE
STATE DE L M A R R D RD
Y
MOUNTAIN LAKE
E
PARK
EL PARK
o Greenwich Steps See Street Finder map 5
NO
ST
S T R E E T
Washington Square. In the past the hill has been home
A R G U E L LO B O U L E
CA MI L A K E PINE ST
25TH
L A K E S T R E E T
STREE
T These formally land-
S T
10TH
16TH
7TH
26TH
19TH
21ST
to immigrants and to artists who appreciated the

PA R K E R AV E N
30TH
ORNIA scaped steps contrast

PA RK PRESIDIO
R EE T
CALIF
MASONIC
32ND
BOULEVARD
S T R E E T
3RD
C A L I F O R N I A EUCLID A V E panoramic views. These days the quaint pastel with the charmingly
RICHMOND rustic Filbert Steps.
AVENUE
clapboard homes are much sought after and this is

AV E N U E
CLEMENT STREET
AVE
AVENUE
AV E N U E
AVENUE
AVENUE
ET
CLEMENT STRE
VA R D
AV E
U
AV E
R D one of the city’s prime residential areas.

E
AVE
AV E
ARY BOUL EVA GE Telegraph Hill is dominated by Coit

GEARY BOULEVARD Tower. At night the tower is bathed
in yellow light and is visible from
0 meters 750 many parts of the city.
M
0 yards 750
The Christopher
O
Columbus Statue
N
The stunning Palace of Fine Arts For keys to map symbols see back flap was erected in 1957.
T
G
The Statue of Benjamin

O
Franklin stands above a

M
1
time capsule planted in 1979,
E
containing Levi’s, a poem,
Introduction to the Area For

R
and a recording of the

Y
Hoodoo Rhythm
K
Devils.
S
E
Napier Lane is a small lane

T
easy reference, the sights in

A
T lined with 19th-century

R
R
E
E cottages. It is the last of San
E
N
R
T Francisco’s wooden plank streets
E
S
E
and a tranquil retreat from the city.

T
T
Y
each area are numbered and

R
E
r Washington Square Bus stop (No. 39) B T
S
L E
This small park at the F
I E
T
heart of Little Italy is R

T
R
T E E
plotted on an area map. To

dominated by
G
S R
E
T Key
Saints Peter and
R
S
E
N
Paul Catholic O
A
N
T
I E Suggested route
N
N
Church, known as U
E
R
help the visitor, this map also

T
the “Italian G
0 meters 100
Cathedral.”
A
S
0 yards 100
V
T
E
O
shows BART stations, cable car

N
C
i . Filbert Steps
K
E
T
The descent through flower

O
gardens down these steps
turntables, and parking areas.

N
gives fine views over the

harbor to the East Bay.
S
T
R
Key sights are listed by

E
E
T
category: Churches and t . Saints Peter and Paul Church No. 1360 Montgomery
Temples; Museums and

The Neo-Gothic church, consecrated in Street is decorated with
1924, has an ornate interior with this an Art Deco figure of a
fine image of Christ in the apse. modern Atlas.
Galleries; Historic Streets and
2
Buildings; Shopping Streets; Street-by-Street Map This gives
and Parks and Gardens. a bird’s-eye view of the most
important parts of each The star
sightseeing area. The numbering indicates that
of the sights ties in with the area this is a place
that no visitor
map and the fuller descriptions should miss.
on the pages that follow.
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7
San Francisco Area Map 18  introducing San FranciSco putting San FranciSco on the map  19
Central San Francisco Lombard Street

Running across the tip of the
peninsula, Lombard Street is
The colored areas shown on

San Francisco is a compact city, and much of the central
famous for the short, steep
area can be explored on foot. the many hills mean some section on Russian Hill. Known
strenuous climbing, but they are useful landmarks for as the “crookedest street in
orientation. a rich ethnic mix adds character to the the world,” it stretches for only
this map (see inside front cover) are distinct neighborhoods. one block between Hyde and
Leavenworth streets, yet has
ten Z-bends (see p88).
Golden Gate
the eight main sightseeing areas –

Bridge
Almost 80 years
old, the bridge is as
much a part of the Victorian Houses
landscape as the See pp76–7.
each covered by a full chapter in San craggy Marin

headlands and
the idyllic bay
(see pp64–7).
Golden Gate
Bridge
Francisco Area by Area (pp54–183).

MA R I
N
E FISHERMAN'S
G
WHARF
O
FORT
LD
D
B LV D ET TH
STRE
R I
MASON
EN
RD
U LEV A E
N A BO
V E
V E
D R I MA R I
B AY
G
I N E
M A R MARINA CO
POWE
A
O LN
STOCK
LU
TE
ET
HYDE
VAN
STRE
LAGU
M
They are highlighted on other
SANS
Exploratorium
BR
E B AY BU
NC
IV
LL
D R STREET S
DO
TON
I
YLE D
RD
NORTH
RAL S T O
G
LI
OME
LOMBA
NA
BO AV
E NUE
LI N C UL ET
EM
E FRE EWA Y
OL N
STRE EN BEACH
T
EV
A STREE
STREE
N
TAY L O
RT
U
ST
D FILBE
BA
BAR
A V
E
R
L OM
NATIONAL
NESS
D
RC
K OB E
BE U MILITARY STREE
T
STREE
T D W AY
BROA
WEBS
AV EN
ULE VARD
GOU
T
CEMETERY N
GREE
A
R
DIVIS ADER
RT
FILBE
D
maps throughout the book. In San
PRESIDIO
ER
T
STREE
TER
GH
BAK
STREE
STREE
O
STRE
U N
GREE
BO L
NOB
STREE
B
EV
T
A STREE
AVEN
N
ER
TO
GU ELL O
RD A Y
HILL
T
SON
PRE
G
T
A D W JACK
ET
AS H I N
B R O
W
CHINATOWN
RD
T
O
T
PACIFIC
T
STREE STREE Embarcadero
S ID
STRE
STREE
B T R Y AU L F
E VA
AR
C L AY
SON ET
HEIGHTS
JACK STRE
UE
PRESIDIO
I O AVENU
Francisco at a Glance (pp36–49), for
ARMY GOLF IA
STRE
FORN
OUL
ET
CALI Montgomery St
STREE
COURSE
T
A V
E ST ST Greyhound
ON C L AY ET ET
JACKS STRE STRE Bus Depot
N B
I C
I E LD R
C I F 1S
ET
Y
P A H T
ST
FORN
IA
BUS
A
ST
PA
OL
S T
T
E
W E CALI
W
TAY L O
C L AY
ET
D
MOUNTAIN Museum of
STRE ET
C
LI N
E
STRE
RK
VAN NESS
LAKE PARK
E
T
STREE
BUSH
3R Modern Art
HYDE
FR
STREET
LAKE ORNIA GEAR
Y D
R
STREET CALIF
A R G U E L LO
R
T
LAKE
example, they help locate the top

A Powell
E
K
R I C H M O N D STREET A R D
E
ST
PR ES ID IO
M
LINCOLN L E V
Street
R
32ND
ST
C
L The Legion B O U
R
T
EE
LI
D E
GOU
S
CALIFORNIA Yerba
25TH
M I N O
of Honor
STREE
C A T
WEBS
WESTERN
8TH
Y ST Buena
AVE
ST
L
PARK A R
19TH
STREET
E CLEMENT
GE TURK SOMA
S
E
GH
STREET Gardens
30TH
ADDITION
DIVIS
CLEMENT STRE
ET
M
ET
6T
N
T
TER
AVE
JA
H
O
STREET
CIVIC
K
NT
CLEME Y
EDD
IS
R
ST
R
A
D UE
B O U L E V A R AVEN
CENTER
R
M
sights. The area map is also used to
T LO BO S A VE
BOULEVARD
MASO
ADER
A
STRE
G E A R Y
PARKER
GATE
BO UL EVARD
ET
H
PO IN
STREET STRE
ANZA
STREE
SUTRO STREET DEN
TURK GOL
AVENUE
34TH
ANZA Civic Center
STAN
43RD
ET
NIC
AVENUE
HEIGHTS ET
AVENUE
STREET STREET STRE
O ST
AVENUE
PARK ANZA BALBOA
AVE
T
STREET ON
BALBOA FULT ALAMO
T
STREE
SQUARE
GREAT
STREET STREET
AVENUE
YAN
BALBOA C A B R I L LO
FELL
AV E
AVENUE
STREET Van Ness
CE N TR
C A B R I L LO
E E T T
STREE
show some of the top shopping

T
STREET S T R STREE
C A B R I L LO
F U L T O N FELL
ED Y
DRIV OAK
A
ET
E STRE
S T R E E T N
HAIGHT
LF
F U L T O N EN
de Young
JF HT T
Museum HAIG
R
K
ASHBURY EW
STRE
VE E
E
Chain RI E AY
HIGHW
of
Lakes
D GOLDEN GATE UT
HER California Academy DUBOCE
AVE
ST
R
MASO
STRAWBERRY K BUENA
EDY I
of Sciences
C L AY T
E
PARK
L
NN HILL IV
VISTA
CASTRO
ST
NG
Church St
areas (pp232–45) and entertainment

KE
ET
DR PARK 14TH
AR
NIC
IVE
JF
IN
RT JR DR EZ W AY
MA K STREET
ON
E LT 15TH
AY
COLE
AV
KING D R IV W AY VE
T
RTIN E
MA
JR
LINCOLN RO O S E CORONA 16th St
E
LU R
T H E
STREET Mission
K
AVE
7TH AVE
ST HEIGHTS
WAY 16TH
R
STRE
A
LINCOLN I R V IN G S T R E ET SSUS T E PARK
RNA
A
S
STREET
PA
M
STREET
SOUTH
MISSION
STREET
DOLORES
17TH
ET
STREET
venues (pp246–63).
17TH
SANCHE
Castro St STREET
18TH
ST
KET
AR MISSION1 9 T H
VAN
DIAMON
STREET
CHURCH
STREET
A VE 19TH
MT SUTRO S T R E E T
2 0 T H
STREET
TW
NE S S A V E
N
O
STREET
D
IN
ND
STREET
ST R E E T
21ST
STREET
PE
A 0 kilometers 2
RE
DOUGLAS STREET
STREET
KS
STREET
CL A
BOU
ST
Cliff House 22ND
0 miles 1
NUE
STREET
ET
LE
S T R E E T
One of the city’s original tourist
VAR
MA R K
D 2 3 R D
sights, Cliff House still attracts TWIN 24TH

STREET 24th St
Mission
PEAKS STREET
visitors who come to eat at 24TH
JERSEY
STREET
25TH STREET
the restaurant and admire the

spectacular views of Seal Rocks
and the Pacific surf (see p159).
For keys to map symbols see back flap
Practical information lists all the information you

Façades of important buildings
need to visit every sight, including a map reference
are often shown to help you
to the Street Finder (pp290–99).
recognize them quickly.
114  SAN FRANCISCO AREA BY AREA FINANCIAL DISTRICT AND uNION SquARE  115
8 Pacific Coast
Stock Exchange
Building ceased to be the city’s
main point of entry. Today,
only a few ferries cross the
Numbers refer to each sight’s
position on the area map and
301 Pine St. Map 5 C4. @ 3, 41.
bay to Larkspur and Sausalito
Closed to the public.
in Marin County (see p163),
This was once America’s largest and Alameda and Oakland in
stock exchange outside New
York. Founded in 1882, it
occupied these buildings, which
the East Bay (see pp166–9).
q California
its place in the chapter.
Classical façade of the Union Bank were remodeled by Miller and
of California Pflueger in 1930 from the Historical Society
existing US Treasury. The 678 Mission St. Map 6 D5.
6 Union Bank monumental granite statues that Tel 357-1848. @ 9, 30, 45. v J,
of California flank the Pine Street entrance to K, L, M, N, T. @ Montgomery.
the building were made by the Open Library: noon–5pm Wed–Fri; Rincon Annex mural depicting the Spanish discovery of San Francisco
400 California St. Map 5 C4. Gallery: noon–5pm Tue–Sun.
renowned San Francisco sculp-
Tel 765-0400. @ 1, 2, 10, 12, 41.
tor, painter, and muralist Ralph ∑ californiahistoricalsociety.org w Museum of the r Contemporary
@ California St. 7 ^
Stackpole, also in 1930. Due to African Diaspora Jewish Museum
William Ralston and Darius
Mills founded this bank in
1864. Ralston, known as “the
changing trading methods, the
building is no longer a stock
exchange and has been
The society provides research
libraries, museum galleries,
and a bookstore. There is a
685 Mission St. Map 5 C5. Tel 358-
7200. @14, 30, 45. v J, K, L, M, N, T.
Open 11am–6pm Wed–Sat, noon–
736 Mission St. Map 5 C5. Tel 655-
7800. @14, 30, 45. v J, K, L, M, N, T.
Open 11am–5pm Fri–Tue, 11am–
The Visitors’ Checklist
provides all the practical
man who built San Francisco,” converted into a fitness club. photographic collection,
5pm Sun. Closed major hols. 8pm Thu. Closed major Jewish
invested profitably in Comstock more than 900 paintings and
∑ moadsf.org holidays, Jan 1, Jul 4, Thanksgiving.
mines (see p29). He, in turn, watercolors by American artists,
used the bank and his personal 9 Justin Herman a decorative arts exhibit, and a
7 = 8 - ∑ thecjm.org
fortune to finance many civic

projects in San Francisco.
These included the city’s
Plaza
Map 6 D3. @ many buses.
unique costume collection. This museum’s central idea is that
we all share a common African
past. Exhibits cover African music,
This museum partners with
national and international
cultural institutions to present
information needed
to plan your visit.
v J, K, L, M, N. @ California St.
water company, a theater, culinary traditions, and explain a variety of art, photography,
and the Palace Hotel (see p115). Popular with lunchtime crowds slave trade. There are interactive and installations celebrating
However, when economic from the nearby Embarcadero lectures, exhibits, and workshops. and exploring Judaism.
depression struck in the 1870s, Center and other offices, this The clock tower on the Ferry Building
Ralston’s empire also collapsed. plaza is mostly known for its e Rincon Center
The present colonnaded avant-garde Vaillancourt t Yerba Buena
Map 6 B4. @ 14. See Shopping in San
building was completed in Fountain, made in 1971 by 0 Ferry Building Francisco p233. Gardens
1908. In the basement there Canadian artist Armand
Embarcadero at Market St. Map 6 E3. See pp116–17.
is a pleasant arcade of shops, Vaillancourt. The fountain is @ many buses. v F, J, K, L, M, N.
This shopping center, with its
restaurants, and small art and modeled from huge concrete soaring atrium, was added on
photography exhibits. blocks, and some find it ugly,
@ California St. ∑ ferrybuilding
to the old Rincon Annex Post y Museum of
marketplace.com 152  SAN FRANCISCO AREA BY AREA G O L D E N G AT E PA R K A N D L A N D ’ S E N D  153
especially when allowed to run Office Building in 1989. The Modern Art
dry in times of drought. However, Constructed between 1896 Rincon Annex is known for
7 Merchant’s you can climb on and through it, and 1903, the Ferry Building Anton Refregier’s murals, show-
See pp120–23.
Exchange and its pools and columns of

falling water make it an intriguing
survived the great fire of
1906 (see pp30–31) through
Fishing in the harbor ing aspects of the city’s history.
u Palace Hotel
2 California Academy of Sciences California Coast Tank
Critters that live in the cold
ViSiToRS’ CHeCKliST
465 California St. Map 5 C4.
public work of art when it is the intercession of fireboats The California waters of California, such as this
Tel 421-7730. @ 1, 3, 10, 12, 41. 2 New Montgomery St. Map 5 Academy
C4. of Sciences has been Practical Information
functioning as intended. pumping water from the located in Golden hermit crab, can be found in this 55 Music Concourse Dr.
@ Montgomery. Open 9am–5pm Tel 512-1111. @ 7, 9, 21, 31, 45, 71. Gate Park since 1916, settling
Mon–Fri, Sat & Sun by appt only. bay. The clock tower is 235 ft v J, K, L, M,into
section on the lower level. Map 8 F2.
a new
N, T. See Wherebuilding
to Stay p215.in late 2008. It houses the
Closed public hols. 7 ^ (71 m) high, and was inspired Tel 379-8000.
∑ mxbuilding.com by the Moorish bell tower The originalSteinhart Aquarium,
Palace Hotel was Morrison Planetarium, and the open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat,
of Seville Cathedral. In the opened byKimball
William Natural History Museum, and combines
Ralston, one 11am–5pm Sun.
The exchange, designed by early 1930s more than 50 innovative
of San Francisco’s green architecture with flexible
best-known Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
7=8-
Willis Polk in 1903, survived million passengers a year financiers, exhibition
in 1875. It was the A lovely piazza is at the heart of
spaces. Piazza (more Steinhart ∑ calacademy.org
the great fire of 1906 with little passed through the building. most luxurious of San Francisco’s
the building. Filled with native plant species, the Aquarium exhibits one
damage. Inside, fine seascapes The Ferry Building now early hotels and was regularly Transport
frequented2.5-acre (1-ha)
andliving roof, which can be seen from
floor below)
by the Irish painter William houses many gourmet shops by the rich @ 5, 21, 44. v N.
Coulter line the walls. These selling a huge variety of the rooftop deck,
famous. Among its patrons were is designed to make the museum
Discovery Tidepool
depict epic maritime scenes fresh produce, as well as blendOscar
Sarah Bernhardt, in with theand
Wilde, surrounding parkland. Located in the lower level, this exhibit allows
from the age of steam and sail. several restaurants and Rudyard Kipling. The celebrated visitors to touch sea creatures that live in the
The building was the focal point eateries. On Tuesdays and tenor Enrico Caruso was
Museum a guest
Guide local coast’s rock pools.
of San Francisco’s commodities Saturdays, a Farmers’ Market at the time of the earthquake
Steinhart Aquarium displays are spread
exchange in the early 20th is held around the outside of of 1906 (see pp30–31), when the
throughout the museum, but most of
century, when lookouts in the building. hotel caught fire. It was rebuilt The Swamp
the tanks can be found in the lower level Philippine Coral Reef Tank
the tower relayed news of The Vaillancourt Fountain in Justin With the opening of the by the architect George Kelham,
beneath the Piazza. An auditorium (Lower Level)
ships arriving from abroad. Herman Plaza Bay Bridge in 1936, the Ferry The magnificent Garden Court at the Palace Hotel and reopened in 1909.
above the café hosts traveling exhibits
as well as special performances and Sharks and Rays
programs. The back of the building holds (Lower Level)
the museum’s collection of over 28
million scientific specimens along with
3
staff offices and research laboratories. . Steinhart Aquarium
Detailed Information on each Sight

A collection of the world’s
deepest living coral reef
display, a two-story
Swamp, Discovery
All the important sights in San

Tidepool, and
hundreds of “jewel”
tanks showcase the
stunning diversity
Francisco are described individually.

of aquatic life.
They are listed in order, following the

numbering on the area map. Practical Planetarium
Visitors leave planet Earth behind as they fly
through space and time inside the world’s
information on opening hours,

largest all-digital planetarium.
Entrance
Level 1
telephone numbers, admission charges Key to Floor Plan

African Hall
Kimball Natural History Museum
Tyrannosaurus Rex
Skeleton
This gigantic
and facilities available is given for each

predator was the most
Morrison Planetarium powerful carnivore ever
Rainforests of the World to walk the earth.
Building Green
sight. The key to the symbols used can Steinhart Aquarium

Science in Action
Islands of Evolution
African Hall
Preserved animals from
. Rainforests of the World
This four-story exhibit offers a vertical
journey through four different
be found on the back flap.

Africa’s jungles and rainforest habitats. Free flying
Early Explorers Cove savannas are displayed butterflies and birds, snakes,
Non-exhibition space here, in lifelike dioramas. and lizards live in this exhibit.
4 San Francisco’s Major Sights

Museums and galleries have
color-coded floor plans to
help you find important
exhibits; and historic
buildings are dissected
to reveal their interiors.
INTRODUCING
SAN FRANCISCO
Great Days in
San Francisco 10–11
Putting San Francisco on
the Map 14–19
San Francisco’s Earthquakes 20–21
The History of San Francisco 22–35
San Francisco at a Glance 36–49
San Francisco Through
the Year 50–53
10  IntroducIng San francISco
GREAT DAYS IN
SAN FRANCISCO
Set on steep, wooded hills and almost Here are itineraries for some of the best of the
surrounded by a vast bay, this jewel of a city city’s attractions, arranged first under themes
is, above all, photogenic. Equip yourself with and then by length of stay. Price guides on
a camera, a map and good walking shoes, pages 10–11 include cost of travel, food, and
and set off to discover its historic sights, admission charges for two adults, while family
cultural treasures, and vibrant neighborhoods. prices are for two adults and two children.
(see pp116–17) and run up the

ramps to the space-age Rooftop
playground and 360-degree city
views. Watch skaters in the ice-
skating rink or toss a few balls in
the bowling center. Drop
teenagers off at the Children’s
Creativity Museum for per-
forming arts activities, explore
exhibits with your younger
ones, or take a spin on the 1906
Charles Looff carousel. Grab a
Rodin’s Thinker at the Legion of Honor takeout at one of the outdoor
cafés and relax in the gardens.
Plaza and the Asian Art Museum
Art, Old and New (see p128), one of the largest Afternoon
museums in the world devoted Walk to the Embarcadero
Two adults allow at least $122 to Asian art. Relax in its café. Center (see p112) and along
•
See classic masterpieces Cross the plaza to the Beaux the waterfront, or take a
at the Legion of Honor Arts-style, gilt rotunda of the City streetcar to Fisherman’s Wharf
Hall (see p129). Head to Hayes (see pp79–81). At Pier 45, feed
•
Contemporary art at
Valley (see p130), admiring, as quarters into the 200 antique
SFMOMA
you walk by, the glass-walled arcade games at Musée
•
Treasures and tea at the Louise M. Davies Symphony Méchanique. Watch street
Asian Art Museum Hall (see p128) and the War performers at PIER 39 (see p86),
•
Shopping in Hayes Valley Memorial Opera House (see a sprawling seaside complex
p129). Enjoy shopping in fashion of shops, eateries, and
boutiques and bookstores entertainments. There’s a
Morning around Hayes Valley and end Venetian carousel, sharks in
Start the day with 4,000 years of with an apéritif at the Absinthe Underwater World and video
ancient and European art at the Brasserie and Bar (see p226). games at Riptide Arcade; not
Legion of Honor in Lincoln Park forgetting the sea lions on K
(see pp158–9). From the wooded Dock. End up at Hyde Street
setting, enjoy the bay views,
Just for Kids Pier – board a schooner, then
then take the Muni streetcar pop into the Maritime
to the Latino Mission District Family of four allow at least Historical Park (see p87).
(see p133) to see flamboyant $111
outdoor murals and browse •
Playtime at Yerba Buena
avant-garde galleries and shops. Gardens
For a quick lunch, munch on •
A picnic lunch
tacos at La Corneta Taqueria
(see p227).
•
Fun at Fisherman’s Wharf
•
Old ships at Hyde
Afternoon Street Pier
Take a Muni to Mario Botta-
designed SFMOMA (see pp120–
23) which has recently reopened Morning
following extensive renovation, Start with pancakes and
to commune with Warhol, jukebox tunes at Mel’s Drive-In
Picasso, and more modern (see p227). Walk a half-block Fun for kids – bungee-jumping at
masters. Walk to Civic Center to Yerba Buena Gardens Fisherman’s Wharf
View of Powell Street
G r e at D ay s i n s a n f r a n c i s c o  11
Houses overlooking Ocean Beach, a magnificent sweep of sand with fine views
beauty of the Palace of Fine From here, walk out onto the
A Day Outdoors Arts (see p62). Walk to water front to hobnob with
Ghirardelli Square (see p87), fishermen, perch on a bench,
Two adults allow at least $100 where you’ll find a range of watch passing ships and snap
•
Sea views at Ocean shops, eateries, an old- the Transamerica Pyramid
Beach fashioned soda fountain, and a (see p113) on the skyline. Walk
chocolate factory. At the cable- to Levi’s Plaza (see p93), a
•
Golden Gate Park
car turnaround, hop onto a grassy area with a backdrop of
•
Walk Golden Gate Bridge cable car and ride to the top vintage houses on Telegraph
•
Chocolate galore of Nob Hill (see p103). After a Hill, topped by Coit Tower
wander here, amble down to (see pp92–3). For lunch, try Fog
•
Cable-car ride to Nob Hill
the bustling streets of City (see p224) for excellent
Chinatown (see pp96–103). wood-fired pizzas and a cozy,
Morning casual atmosphere.
Start with breakfast at the Beach
Chalet (1000 Great Highway),
Along the Waterfront Afternoon
Ocean Beach (see p155). View Jump onto a vintage streetcar,
the Depression-era murals, then Two adults allow at least $102 or walk to Pier 41 at Fisherman’s
set off into Golden Gate Park •
Home of the Giants Wharf (see pp80–81) and take an
(see pp146–7), past gardens, •
Gourmet treats
hour-long Blue and Gold Fleet
lakes, meadows, and playing sightseeing trip around the bay
fields to the Conservatory of
•
A walk in Levi’s and under the bridge. You can
Flowers (see p154), a restored Plaza Park also cruise to the notorious
Victorian glasshouse filled •
Sail around the bay or prison island Alcatraz (see pp82–
with exotic flora. Stroll in the pay a visit to Alcatraz 5) for a guided tour – in summer
Japanese Tea Garden (see p149), months, be sure to book a few
rent a bike or a rowboat, or visit weeks ahead. Back at the wharf,
the Strybing Arboretum (see Morning look into Madame Tussaud’s
p154). Just outside the park, Start your expedition with a (see p86). Finally, amble to Fort
have a fresh sushi lunch at coffee at Caffè Roma (see p230), Mason (see pp74–5) to watch
Japanese restaurant Ebisu then head to AT&T Park (see the sun set over the harbor.
(see p225). p260), home of the San Francisco
Giants. Stroll around the
Afternoon perimeter of the ball park for
Take Muni to San Francisco’s fabulous views. Proceed to the
landmark Golden Gate Bridge tall Ferry Building (see pp114–15),
(see pp64–7) for a windy walk where in the glass-enclosed
across and back. Walk under the marketplace you can buy
bridge to pre-Civil War-era Fort artisan cheeses, rare teas,
Point (see p62) and follow the pastries, and locally grown
bayfront trail to Crissy Field produce. Across the street,
(see p62), to watch boats and Embarcadero Center (see p112)
windsurfers. Have a hot drink is a six-block, high-rise complex
here at the Warming Hut Café. of shops and restaurants topped
Then take a stroll and enjoy the by tree-lined, sky-high terraces. Fog City diner, a San Francisco landmark
12  INTRODUCING SaN FRaNCISCO
gems from cartoons to works by

Jeff Koons. Have lunch at the
Ferry Building (pp114–15).
Afternoon Catch a ferry out to

Alcatraz Island (pp82–5) for a
tour of the historic prison; the
audioguide is a must. End the
day by exploring bustling
Chinatown (pp98–9).
Day 2
Morning Many of the city’s
best sights can be reached by
The “Painted Ladies” on Steiner Street, near Alamo Square bicycle, which can be rented
from Fisherman’s Wharf
2 Days in the city’s hippest shopping and (pp80–81). Ride along the Bay
San Francisco dining districts. Continue on to through Fort Mason (pp74–5)
Alamo Square (p131) to see the and across Crissy Field, then over
•
Bicycle over the Golden “Painted Ladies” – a row of the iconic Golden Gate Bridge
Gate Bridge pretty Victorian houses on the (pp64–7) to the pretty former
•
Explore the beatnik east side of the square. Walk fishing community of Sausalito
haunts of North Beach through the Golden Gate Park (p163). Enjoy the scenic ferry ride
Panhandle (p136) to the former back to the city.
•
Discover the historic
“Flower Power” district Haight
hippie neighborhood
Ashbury (pp134–5) for lunch.
of Haight Ashbury
Afternoon Take in some of
the spectacular attractions of
Day 1 Golden Gate Park (pp144–59).
Morning For some pedal- The California Academy of
powered sightseeing, rent a Sciences (pp152–3) covers
bike (p281). Start out from virtually every aspect of the
Fisherman’s Wharf (pp80–81) natural world, and the Japanese
and cycle through Fort Mason Tea Garden (p149), with its rock
(pp74–5) and over the gardens and bonsai trees, is
magnificent Golden Gate a serene haven. Spend the
Bridge (pp64–7) to Sausalito evening east of Dolores Street, in
(p163). Spend some time the Mission District (pp132–43).
exploring this pretty former Coit Tower at the top of Telegraph Hill, one
fishing town, then catch a ferry 3 Days in San of the city’s best viewpoints
back and have lunch at a café in Francisco
the Ferry Building (pp114–15). Afternoon Head on foot into
•
Ride the vintage F line North Beach (pp88–9). Explore
Afternoon Visit North Beach streetcar to MoMA the neighborhood’s beatnik
(pp88–9), stopping off at the •
Catch a ferry out to the old haunts, starting at the North
North Beach Beat Museum prison at Alcatraz Island Beach Beat Museum (p89). Walk
(p89) to see some fascinating up the Vallejo Street Stairway
•
Climb up the Vallejo Street
Beat Generation memorabilia. (p89) and on to Coit Tower (pp92–
Stairway to Coit Tower
Climb the lovely Vallejo Street 3) for some stunning city views.
on Telegraph Hill
Stairway (p89) before making Continue to lovely Washington
your way to Coit Tower (pp92–3) Square (p92) and visit nearby
for some great North Bay views. Saints Peter and Paul Church
Look out for the murals in the Day 1 (p92), once dubbed the
tower’s lobby. End the day with Morning Have breakfast at “Marzipan Church” for the frothy
an evening trip to Alcatraz Fisherman’s Wharf (pp80–81) and stucco decoration on its spires.
Island (pp82–5), site of the see the sea lions sunbathing on
notorious, historic prison. PIER 39 (p86). Next, take the Day 3
vintage F line streetcar (pp282–3) Morning Start your day near
Day 2 to Union Square Shops (p118). the grand City Hall (p129) at
Morning Start the day at Civic The nearby Museum District, Civic Center (pp124–31). Stroll
Center (pp124–31), taking in the centered on the wonderful San along Hayes Valley (p130), past
gold-domed City Hall (p129), Francisco Museum of Modern shops and cafés, up to Alamo
and Hayes Valley (p130), one of Art (pp120–23), offers artistic Square (p131) to see the pretty
G r e at d ay s i n s a n F r a n c i s c o  13
Victorian houses known as of quaint Victorian houses.

the “Painted Ladies.” Continue Continue through the Golden
via the Golden Gate Park Gate Park Panhandle (p136) to
Panhandle (p136) to lively explore the historic hippie
Haight Ashbury (pp134–5). neighborhood of Haight
Golden Gate Park (pp144–55) is Ashbury (pp134–5 ).
jam-packed with things to see
and do, but be sure to visit the Afternoon Head downtown to
California Academy of Sciences the San Francisco Museum of
(pp152–3) and the relaxing Modern Art (pp120–23); stop by
Japanese Tea Garden (p149). the top-floor exhibit of local
artists’ work. End the day with
Afternoon The park ends at some shopping around Union
Ocean Beach. Head north to Square (p118); be sure to visit
wild Land’s End (p159) and visit Gump’s (p118), renowned for its The grand dome of City Hall at Civic Center,
Cliff House (p159) for a look at inventive window displays. San Francisco’s main public space
the Camera Obscura, and dinner
in one of its restaurants. Day 3 toward Napa. Take a free tour of
Morning Start early and head the Clos Pegase winery (p192),
5 Days in San to Golden Gate Park (pp144–55), which specializes in Cabernet,
Francisco which offers outdoor activities, Merlot, and Petite Syrah port.
botanical gardens, and museums
•
Visit the myriad attractions galore. Visit the wonderful Afternoon Continue north to
of Golden Gate Park California Academy of Sciences the historic hot-springs town
•
Take a cable car ride up (pp152–3) for natural history and Calistoga (p195) and spend an
Nob Hill the de Young Museum (p149) for indulgent afternoon in a spa.
an amazing art collection.
•
Sample fine wine in Napa
Day 5
Wine Country
Afternoon Take a picnic to the Morning Enjoy breakfast at
broad sweep of Ocean Beach Fisherman’s Wharf (pp80–81) and
(p155). Continuing north toward watch the sea lions on fun-filled
Day 1 Land’s End (p159), stop off at PIER 39 (p86). End the morning
Morning Rent a bicycle at Cliff House (p159) to see the with a tour of the vintage
Fisherman’s Wharf (pp80–81) and fascinating Camera Obscura. submarine USS Pampanito (p86).
head along the bike trail through In the evening, head to the
Fort Mason (pp74–5) to Golden sumptuous Castro Theatre Afternoon Take the ferry to
Gate Bridge (pp64–7). Watch for (p138) in the city’s bustling gay historic Alcatraz Island (pp82–5),
dolphins as you cross into district, for a drink and a movie. making use of the informative
Sausalito (p163). Spend some audioguide. Afterward, explore
time exploring the town before Day 4 Chinatown (pp98–9) and take a
taking the ferry back for lunch Morning The Bay Area doesn’t ride on San Francisco’s famous
at the Ferry Building (pp114–15). stop at the city limits, so take a moving landmark, a cable car,
day to get out and explore: up to Nob Hill (p103). See the
Afternoon Take a trip up Coit Napa Wine Country (pp192–5) majestic Grace Cathedral (p105)
Tower (pp92–3) to see the city is just an hour away by car. Have and finish the night with dinner
from up high, before visiting breakfast in Russian Hill (pp182– at the Top of the Mark
Catholic Saints Peter and Paul 3), before heading out across the restaurant at the Mark Hopkins
Church (p92) near the pretty Golden Gate Bridge (pp64–7) InterContinental Hotel (p104).
park at Washington Square
(p92). Walk to North Beach (pp88–
9) and visit the North Beach
Beat Museum (p89), to learn
about the artists and poets that
gave this neighborhood its vibe.
Day 2
Morning Visit the Beaux-Arts-
style City Hall (p129) at Civic
Center (pp124–31), then take a
stroll along Hayes Valley (p130),
which has an interesting mix
of boutiques and thrift stores.
Stop off at Alamo Square (p131)
to see the “Painted Ladies,” a row Grapes ripening on the vine on a Napa Valley winery
14  INTrOdUCINg SAN FrANCISCO
Lake
Wallaston
Putting San Francisco on the Map

San Francisco is, after New York, the second most densely
populated city in the United States, with over 800,000 residents
crowded into an area of 47 sq miles (122 sq km). Its location at the
tip of a hilly peninsula on the West Coast of North America, S A S K A T C H E WA N
overlooking the Pacific Ocean, is one of the most beautiful in tch
ew a n
Lake
ska
the world. Three airports in the Bay Area handle both international Sa Winnipeg
and internal flights. There are also interstate highways and rail links
serving the East Coast and other parts of the country, and Canada.
C A N A D A
n
Vancouver Vancouver Calgary wa
he
at
c
Calgary S Sa s k
um b i a
Seattle ol
C
Seattle-Tacoma WASHINGTON
Missoula Great M i s s o uri NORTH

Portland Colu
mbia DAKOTA
Falls
Portland MONTANA Bismarck
e
ak
OREGON
Sn
IDAHO Billings
Boise
SOUTH
DAKOTA
Eureka WYOMING Rapid City
Casper
o
en t
S a c ram
Salt Lake City NEBRASKA

See inset
map above Salt Lake City
Sacramento
Pla tte
SAN FRANCISCO N E VA D A UTAH Denver
Denver
o
r ad COLORADO
lo
Co KANSAS
CALIFORNIA Las
Vegas
McCarran
UNITED STATES OF
de
an
Gr
Los Angeles OKLA

Rio
Amarillo
o
Los Angeles
ad
ARIZONA Albuquerque
Co l o r
San Diego Phoenix

Phoenix
San Diego Sky Harbor NEW Re d
MEXICO
Mexicali
Dallas
Tucson Fort Worth
Key Ciudad TEXAS

Juarez
Freeway
Major road Hermosillo
Amtrak line SONORA San Antonio

International border CHIHUAHUA Ri
o
San
Gu
BAJA
Gr
Antonio
CALIFORNIA
MEXICO
State line
lf
an d
of
COAHUILA
Ca
Pa c i fi c
lif
NUEVO
O c e a n
or
SINALOA LEON
ni
Torreón Monterrey
a
c h ill
PUTTING SAN FRANCISCO ON THE MAP  15
Hudson
Bay
ur
Carson City
Ch
Greater San Francisco Lake

o n Tahoe
N els Auburn N E VA D A
MANITOBA Calistoga
Sacramento
Santa Rosa
Napa
See next CALIFORNIA

page
Stockton
Oakland
SAN
ONTARIO FRANCISCO Modesto Yosemite
San National
Park
Sa
Jose
Palo Alto
n
W
aq
in
Jo
Merced
nip
ui
n
eg
Winnipeg Pa c i fi c Santa
Winnipeg
Ocean Cruz
Fresno
Salinas
Monterey
Visalia
ke 0 kilometers 75
MINNESOTA La er ior Coalinga
p
Su 0 miles 50
Lake Lester B VT NH
ga n
WISCONSIN Huron Pearson Logan

ari o
hi
Minneapolis St Paul Toronto ke Ont Boston

L a ke M i c
MICHIGAN La NEW YORK MA

Minneapolis- Hamilton
St Paul Detroit Buffalo
CT RI
Metropolitan
Sioux Milwaukee Detroit E rie New York
Mis
Falls ke JFK
La PENNSYLVANIA
sis
Cleveland
si
pi Philadelphia NJ
p
Des I O WA Chicago
Moines Chicago- Pittsburgh
O'Hare OHIO Philadelphia
INDIANA Pittsburgh Baltimore
Omaha ILLINOIS DE
Indianapolis Washington Dulles
Indianapolis Washington, DC
Lambert- Cincinnati
St Louis WEST MD
Kansas City VIRGINIA
St Louis io
Louisville VIRG IN IA
Oh
AMERICA KENTUCKY
MISSOURI
Nashville ee NORTH CAROLINA
es s
TENNESSEE nn Charlotte-
HOMA Douglas Charlotte
Te
Little
Oklahoma Ark a n s Rock Memphis SOUTH
City as CAROLINA
ARKANSAS Atlanta
Missi ssi ppi
Hartsfield-Jackson
Birmingham
ALABAMA GEORGIA A t l a n t i c
Jackson
Dallas Montgomery O c e a n
a
Savannah
bam
MISSISSIPPI
Ala
Re Jacksonville
d
LOUISIANA Jacksonville
Tallahassee
Houston
New New
Houston Orleans Orleans Orlando
Orlando
Corpus FLORIDA The
Christi Ba
ha
m
as
0 kilometers 500
Miami Miami
0 miles 300
16  INTRODUCING SAN FRANCISCO
Santa Rosa 37
The Bay Area Novato

37
To the east, the cities of Oakland and Berkeley are reached

via Bay Bridge, while to the north, Golden Gate Bridge
S A N P A B LO
links the peninsula to Marin County. These areas, together B AY
with the suburbs to the south, make up the Bay Area, 101
which is served by Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) lines,

CalTrain, and freeways.
Fairfax
San San Rafael
Anselmo
Kent Larkspur
Lake Richmond
1 Corte 580
Bolinas Madera
0 kilometers 10
0 miles 5 Tamalpais Tiburon

Valley
Stinson Beach
Sausalito Angel
101
Island
Muir Beach Bay Bridge

(Toll)
Golden Gate
Bridge (Toll)
SAN 80
FRANCISCO
PA C I FI C Stonestown
1
O C E A N
Daly City
Thornton Beach
101
82
35
South
San Francisco
Pacific Manor
Sharp Park Beach
Pacifica San Francisco

International
Millbrae
Pedro Valley San
Andreas
Reservoir
Gray Whale Burlingame
Cove Beach
280
Montara San Mateo
Montara Beach
Moss Beach Crystal
Springs
Key Moss Beach Lake
Central San Francisco El Granada

Urban area 92
Half Moon Bay
Freeway
Major road
Half Moon
Minor road BayBeach
1
Railroad line
Ferry route
San Gregorio 84
San Gregorio Beach
For additional map symbols see back flap

PUTTING SAN FRANCISCO ON THE MAP  17
Napa Sacramento
M
o
nt
80
ez u
Vallejo 680 GRIZZLY
ma S l o u
BAY
N t
o
a
en
gh
am
pa
Benicia cr
Sa
n
ui
160
aq
Jo
n
Sa
Pittsburg
4 Antioch
Martinez
4
80 Concord 4
San Clayton Black Di a mond

Pablo Pleasant M i n e s R eg i onal Brentwood
Reservoir Hill 680 P res e r ve
Brionas
Reservoir Walnut Creek
4
Albany 24
Berkeley Lafayette Lafayette Stockton

Reservoir
Mo unt Di abl o
Danville State Park
24 13
Oakland San Ramon
Upper
San Leandro M o r g a n Te r r i t o r y
Reservoir 680 Regional
Preser ve
580
Oakland San Leandro

International Dublin
880
Castro Valley
Modesto
580
San
SAN Lorenzo Hayward Livermore
FRANCISCO
Russell
B AY City
Pleasanton
238
San Mateo 92 84
Bridge (Toll) L a ke D e l
Union City 84
Va l l e S t a t e
Pabrico Recreation
Area
Foster City
Fremont
Belmont Dumbarton
Bridge (Toll) Newark
101 84 880
237
Redwood 680 Calaveras

City Reserviour
Palo Alto
Woodside Milpitas
Mountain
View
Sky 280 Sunnyvale Berryessa
Londa
82 San Jose 130
International
Loyola
Santa
35 280 Clara San Jose
La Honda 17
Cupertino
101
85 Santa Cruz 87 Monterey
18  inTroducing SAn FrAnciSco
Central San Francisco

San Francisco is a compact city, and much of the central
area can be explored on foot. The many hills mean some
strenuous climbing, but they are useful landmarks for
orientation. A rich ethnic mix adds character to the
distinct neighborhoods.
Golden Gate
Bridge
Almost 80 years
old, the bridge is as
much a part of the Victorian Houses
landscape as the See pp76–7.
craggy Marin
headlands and Golden Gate
Bridge
the idyllic bay
(see pp64–7). MA R I
N
E
G
O
LD
D
B LV D
R I
EN
V E
V E
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One of the city’s original tourist
sights, Cliff House still attracts
visitors who come to eat at
the restaurant and admire the
spectacular views of Seal Rocks
and the Pacific surf (see p159).
putting San FranciSco on the map  19
Lombard Street
Running across the tip of the
peninsula, Lombard Street is
famous for the short, steep
section on Russian Hill. Known
as the “crookedest street in
the world,” it stretches for only
one block between Hyde and
Leavenworth streets, yet has
ten Z-bends (see p88).
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San Francisco’s Earthquakes

San Francisco lies on the San Andreas Fault and is
under constant threat of earthquakes. The Loma
Prieta earthquake of October 17, 1989, named
after the hill close to its epicenter in the Santa
Cruz Mountains, was the worst to hit the area
since 1906 (see pp30–31). Many buildings are now
being strengthened to withstand tremors, and
shelters like the one at the Moscone Center
(see pp116–17) are stocked as emergency relief
The 1989 earthquake measured 7.1 on the
sites. In addition, most hotels have their own
Richter scale. It caused some of the houses
evacuation procedures, and the local telephone that were built on landfill in the Marina
directory has four pages of advice. District to shift off their foundations.
Berkeley
The San Andreas Fault is a
major fracture in the Earth’s
crust. It extends almost the full
length of California, some
600 miles (965 km).
San Francisco
lies near the
northern end of
the fault.
Pacific Plate Meets North
American Plate
The San Andreas Fault is the
result of friction where two
major plates of the Earth’s
crust meet – the eastern
Pacific and the North
American plates.
San North American

Andreas plate
Fault
Epicenter (point on the surface above the focus

L (long) waves of an earthquake)
travel across the
surface. Hypocenter (the focus of an earthquake)
S (secondary) P waves S waves L waves

waves travel
through solid
parts of the crust.
P (primary) waves
travel through the
Earth’s core.
Pacific plate Hypocenter A seismograph printout shows the intensity
Earthquake energy vibrations travel like waves of earthquake vibrations graphically. Inside
through the Earth’s crust. The interval between the the seismograph a pen traces P (primary),
arrival of the P and S waves tells scientists how far S (secondary), and L (long) waves on a
away the epicenter of the earthquake is. rotating drum.
SAN FRANCISCO’S EARTHQUAKES  21
Scientists monitor the

movement of the San Andreas
Fault by bouncing laser beams off
a network of reflectors. The system
can pick up movements of less
than 0.025 inch (0.6 mm) over a
distance of 4 miles (6 km), enabling
seismologists to predict when
earthquakes are likely to occur.
The hills and coastal ranges of the Bay

Area are pressure ridges formed by
hundreds of fault movements
compressing and uplifting the land.
Hayward
Fault In Oakland, 42 people were killed in 1989 when an
elevated highway section collapsed and 44 slabs of
concrete, each weighing 661 tons, fell onto the cars.
A Vibroseis truck produces

artificial S (secondary)
waves that probe
the underlying rock
structure to measure
movement.
Calaveras
Fault
1872 Earthquake demolishes town of Lone 1890 Pronounced earth tremor

1769 Members
Pine and Sierra Nevadas rise 13 ft (4 m) 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake strikes city
of Portolá’s expedition
are first Europeans 1857 Strong earth tremor and Bay Area, killing 67 and making 1,800
to experience an followed by smaller homeless. Worst quake since 1906
earthquake in California tremors in Bay Area 1957 Strong tremor in Bay Area
1750 1800 1850 1900 1950
1865 City suffers its first major earth- 1977 Eight earth tremors occur
quake on October 9, followed by
second quake on October 23 1906 Strongest earthquake ever; 3-day fire
destroys much of city leaving 3,000 dead and
Don Gaspar 1868 Strong tremor in 1906 earthquake 250,000 homeless. 52 small tremors shake
de Portolá Hayward Fault damage region over following two days
INTRODUCING SAN FRANCISCO  23
THE HISTORY OF
SAN FRANCISCO
Even by the standards of the New World, the world, leading to the Gold Rush of
San Francisco remained terra incognita 1849 (the prospectors of this time were
for a surprisingly long time. A few known as ’49ers). This coincided with
early European explorers, including the United States’ takeover of the West
Portuguese-born João Cabrilho and Coast and, by 1869, San Francisco had
England’s Sir Francis Drake, sailed up grown into an international city renowned
and down the California coast in the both for its wild “Barbary Coast,” stretching
16th century, but they all sailed past the west from the waterfront, and for the
Golden Gate without noticing the bay fortunes that were made speculating
that lay beyond it. It was not until 1769 on the newfound riches of the
that the first non-natives laid eyes on American frontier.
what is now San Francisco; thereafter the
area was colonized swiftly by the Spanish, Earthquake and Recovery
who established both missions and As the population increased, the city grew
presidios (forts). In 1821, when Mexico westward to fill the narrow peninsula: cable
declared independence from Spain, cars were invented to conquer the steep
it became Mexican territory. hills, and blocks of ornate Victorian houses
were built. The great earthquake and fire
The Growing City of 1906 destroyed most of the city but not
The first significant boost to growth its spirit, and reconstruction was soon
occurred in 1848, when gold was underway. Throughout all of this, San
discovered at Sutter’s Mill in the Sierra Francisco retained its unique character
Nevada foothills near Sacramento. and seemingly limitless energy. The
Hundreds of thousands of prospectors following pages illustrate significant
were attracted to California from all over periods in the city’s history.
Telegraph Hill and North Beach at the time of the Gold Rush
An 1873 print of the city looking south, with Market Street running from the center of the waterfront
24  INTRODuCINg SAN FRANCISCO
Early San Francisco

The first inhabitants of the area around San Francisco Bay
were Native Americans, grouped into two main tribes, the
Coast Miwok in the north and the Ohlone in the south. By
the mid-1500s, European ships were exploring the
California coast, but no contact was made with the Indians
until Sir Francis Drake anchored off Point Reyes and
claimed it for Queen Elizabeth I. The bay remained Extent of the City
undiscovered until 1769, and in 1776 Spain established a Today 1800
small presidio (fort) and a mission, named in honor of the Land reclaimed since 1800
founder of the Franciscan order, San Francisco de Asis.
Missionaries from Spain tried to

convert the Indians to Christianity,
Tcholovoni forcing them to live in barracks
Indians and to do forced labor.
Various tribes,
including these
Tcholovoni Indians,
hunted and settled in Girdles were
small villages on the shores decorated with
of San Francisco Bay. feathers and
shells.
Drake Lands at Point Reyes (1579)

It is thought that Sir Francis Drake landed
at what is now called Drake’s Bay; he was
greeted by Miwok Indians.
10,000 BC First AD 1542 Portuguese-born 1602 Sebastian Vizcaino visits

Indians migrate explorer João Cabrilho sights Point Reyes, but also fails to find
to the Bay area the Farallon Islands off the the bay. His glowing reports
coast of San Francisco encourage the later expedition
that discovers San Francisco Bay
10,000 BC AD 1550 1600 1650
1579 Sir Francis Drake

lands near Point Reyes
for ship repairs
João Cabrilho 1666 Map showing
1595 Spanish trading ship San
(died 1543) California as an island
Augustin sinks off Point Reyes
the history of san francisco  25
Kule Loklo Indians Where to See Early

These early Bay Area San Francisco
inhabitants were depicted Early American Indian tools are
by Anton Refregier in his at the California Academy of
mural in the foyer Sciences (pp152–3), while
of the Rincon Mission Dolores (p139) and
Center Annex Oakland Museum (pp168–9)
(see p115). have Mission-era artifacts.
The Missions
Under the direction of Father
Narciso Duran, the mission of San
Jose was the largest and most
prosperous in the Bay Area.
Male dancers
painted their
bodies with red,
A spear was an important black, and white
dance accessory. pigments.
17th-century icon of St Peter,

carved in Mexico and carried
to California, is now in Oakland
Museum (p168).
Dance at Mission Dolores

The Russian artist Ludovic
Choris (1795–1828) drew this
picture of Indians dancing
outside Mission Dolores in
1816. They decorated their
bodies, performing for the
missionaries every Sunday.
1701 Father Kino crosses

1776 Juan De Anza 1816 Russian traders
the Colorado River proving arrive on the ship Rurik
leads the first party of
that Baja California is a and are disturbed by
settlers overland to
peninsula, not an island the high mortality rate
San Francisco, arriving
Portolá’s 1769 expedition on March 28 of American Indians
1700 1750 1800
1769 Don Gaspar de Portolá, leading a party of 1797 Mission San

explorers overland, discovers the bay in November 1769 Jose founded
1775 Spanish ship San Carlos,

captained by Lt Juan Manuel de Ayala, Indians
is the first to enter San Francisco Bay gambling
The Gold Rush

Having broken away from Spain in 1821, Mexico opened
California to foreign trade for the first time. Whaling
vessels and traders anchored in San Francisco Bay, and
a small village began to grow. In 1848, with the discovery
of gold in the Sierra Nevada foothills, and the US
annexation of California, everything changed. In two
years, 100,000 prospectors passed through the Golden Extent of the City
Gate, turning San Francisco into a wild frontier city. Today 1853
Vallejo’s Goblet
This elegant goblet reveals
the gracious way of life of
General Vallejo, the last
Mexican governor of California.
Sam Brannan set up the city’s

first newspaper in 1847.
San Francisco Captured from Mexico Firemen pulling

On July 9, 1846 the USS Portsmouth took firefighting rig
control of the undefended bay, and 70 US
sailors and marines marched ashore, raising
the Stars and Stripes in the central plaza.
Gambling
Fortunes and lives were won
or lost on the turn of a card;
gambling was a way of life.
1820 Whaling ships 1823 Mission San 1828 Fur trapper Jedediah 1834 Missions close,
use Sausalito as main Francisco de Solano Smith arrives at Presidio after and their assets are
base of operations founded at Sonoma making the first crossing of the divided among
rugged coastal mountains Mexican landowners
1820 1830
1822 The Mexican Revolution 1835 William

ends Spanish rule over California Richardson founds
Yerba Buena,
later renamed
Richardson’s hand-drawn map of San Francisco
Yerba Buena (San Francisco) in 1835
THE HISTORY OF SAN FRANCISCO  27
Where to See Gold Rush

San Francisco
Little remains of the Gold Rush city,
but you can get a feel for this era at
the Wells Fargo History Museum (see
p112), the Oakland Museum (see
pp168–9), or the Jackson Square
Historical District (see p112).
Scales used by Wells Fargo
Ragged Gold Miner

A weary prospector
endures the long trek
to the gold fields; many
returned empty-handed.
Burlesque theater
was a popular Wells Fargo administrators
entertainment in
the growing city. Tall ships brought
gold seekers from all
over the world.
News of Gold Reaches New York

Confirmed by President Polk on December 5,
1848, the gold find inspired thousands to
head west.
Panning for Gold

In 1849, more than
90,000 “Forty-Niners” passed
through San Francisco. They
faced long, hard hours
panning for gold in the
streams of the Sacramento
Valley and Sierra Nevadas.
Montgomery Street in 1852

This street was the business center. Here
Wells Fargo, whose stagecoaches brought
goods to the miners and carried back gold,
built the city’s first brick building.
1836 Juan Batista Alvarado 1846 Bear Flag Revolt is led by 1851 Clipper
marches on Monterey and explorer John Fremont and Flying Cloud takes
declares California a “free settlers in May. US troops occupy 89 days to reach
sovereign state” within the state capital (Monterey) on July 7 San Francisco
Mexican republic and take Yerba Buena on July 9 from New York
1840 1850
1847 Village of Yerba

Buena is officially renamed
San Francisco. City now 1848 Gold discovered by John
John Fremont comprises 200 buildings Marshall in Sierra Nevada foothills,
1813–90 with 800 inhabitants starting the Gold Rush of 1849
The Victorian Years

The city’s real boom years occurred during the second
half of the 19th century, when some San Franciscans made
huge fortunes from the silver mines of Nevada’s Comstock
Lode, and from the transcontinental railroad, completed
in 1869. Saloons and brothels abounded along the
waterfront in the legendary Barbary Coast district, while
the wealthy built palaces at the top of Nob Hill. As the Extent of the City
city expanded, its streets were lined by ornate Victorian Today 1870
houses, and by the turn of the century the population
topped 300,000, making it the largest city west of Chicago.
Bathroom with original
bathtub and tiles
The dining room was

used for family meals
and formal dinners.
Silver Urn
Presented to Senator
Edward Baker in 1860,
this urn celebrated
future San Francisco
business projects,
particularly the
transcontinental
railroad.
Supper room
in basement
Barbary Coast Saloon
Gambling and prostitution were rife in The second parlor The front parlor
the Barbary Coast, and drunken men was a private sitting was used only
were often pressed into naval service. room for the family. for entertaining.
1856 Increasing lawlessness:

vigilantes hang four men 1862 First telegraph 1869 Transcontinental railroad 1873 Levi Strauss
connection completed, making fortunes for patents process for
between New York the infamous “Big Four” (see p104) making riveted
and San Francisco jeans (see p137)
1850 1860 1870
Emperor 1854 Local eccentric, Joshua 1863 Ground is broken 1873 First San
Norton Norton, proclaims himself in Sacramento for the Francisco cable car is
(died 1880) Emperor of the United States Central Pacific Railroad; tested on Clay Street
and Protector of Mexico, thousands of Chinese
issuing his own currency are hired to build it
Union Pacific Railroad

In 1869, the Union Pacific Where to See the
met the San Francisco-
based Central Pacific in Victorian City
Utah at Promontory Point Well-preserved Victorian
to form the first trans- buildings can be seen all over
continental railroad. San Francisco, but only Haas-
Lilienthal House (see p72)
and Octagon House (p75)
are open to the public on a
regular basis. Jackson Square
Haas-Lilienthal House Historical District (p112) is the
Wholesale grocer William Haas built this best place to see what remains
elaborate Queen Anne-style house in 1886, one of the Barbary Coast.
of many in the Victorian-era suburbs. Today
Gothic Revival birdcage from
it is a museum and shows how a
the 19th century at Oakland
well-to-do family would have
Museum (pp168–9)
lived at the turn of the century.
Sutro Baths
These public
baths, which stood
until the 1960s,
were built by
philanthropist
and one-time
mayor Adolph
Sutro in 1896.
The sitting Comstock Lode Silver

room was Between 1859 and the
originally mid-1880s, $400 million
the master was extracted from
bedroom. the mines.
Porch
Hall, with
Victorian
corner sofa
1896 Adolph Sutro opens

1886 10,000 trade unionists the world’s largest public
take part in the biggest labor baths north of Cliff House
parade to date in San Francisco 1901 Power broker Abe
Ruef runs San Francisco
1880 1900
1887 Scottish gardener John 1899 Frank Norris

McLaren is hired to tend writes the classic 1900 Fisherman’s
Golden Gate Park. He stays novel McTeague: Wharf is built
for 50 years (see p148) A Story of
San Francisco
Adolph Sutro 1830–98
The 1906 Earthquake and Fire

The massive earthquake that hit San Francisco just after
5am on April 18, 1906, caused one of the worst disasters
in US history. The tremor, many times more powerful
than any other to hit the city before or since, instantly
collapsed hundreds of buildings, and subsequent fires
engulfed the city center. More than 6 sq miles (15 sq km)
were reduced to rubble, and estimated death tolls ranged Extent of the City
from an official 700 to a more credible 3,000, while as Today 1906
many as 250,000 people were made homeless. Since

most property owners were insured against damage
by fire, the city was able to rebuild quickly, and by the Powell Street cable cars were back
end of the decade business had returned to normal. in service within two years. The rest
of the system, much reduced, was
operational by 1915.
The House of Mirth

In the summer of 1906 more than
100,000 residents had to make their
homes in refugee camps.
The Ferry Building was saved Chinatown burned

from destruction by fireboats completely to the
spraying water from the bay. ground.
Spirit of San Francisco

Cartoonists were quick to see the funny
side of their changed lives; scarcity of
water provoked some ironic comment.
Fairmont Hotel
1905 Architect Daniel 1909 Jack London writes
Burnham submits 1907 Fairmont Hotel Martin Eden, a thinly
radical plans to reopens exactly one year veiled autobiography
improve the city center after the earthquake
1905 1906 1907 1908 1909
1906 Earthquake, Jack London

measuring 8.25 on the 1907 Abe “Boss” 1876–1916
Richter scale, and 3-day fire, Ruef pleads guilty
Burnham reduce the city to rubble; to extortion
Plan tremors continue for 2 days
Feeding the Homeless

in Union Square Where to See Remnants
The US Army took of the 1906 Earthquake
responsibility for
providing food and Artifacts and exhibits pertaining
shelter for the thousands to the 1906 disaster are found
of victims who all over the city. Information
lost members of their on the quake can be viewed
family, their homes in the foyer of the Sheraton
and possessions. Palace Hotel and at www.
sfmuseum.org.
South of Market The Fairmont Hotel The Flood Mansion’s stone

District, built on burned, but was frame survived the quake;
unstable soil, was rebuilt inside the it can be seen today as the
one of the hardest- original façade. Pacific-Union Club.
hit areas in the
earthquake.
Cups and saucers fused by

the heat of the fire are among
artifacts on display at the
Oakland Museum (pp168–9).
The Destruction
Traveling at 7,000 mph
(11,265 km), the earthquake
overwhelmed the city center.
Flames erupted from burst gas
mains and, in three days,
destroyed 28,000 buildings:
prime city property valued at
$400 million.
The Homeless Nob Hill’s wooden

Many people salvaged mansions burned
what they could like kindling.
and moved
away for good.
Clearing Up
As soon as the flames
had abated, buildings
were torn down and
cleared for restoration.
Mayor “Sunny 1914 Stockton

Jim” Rolph Plans for San Street tunnel
1869–1948 Francisco, the 1913 Last horse-drawn opens
Exposition City streetcar withdrawn
from service
1910 1911 1912 1913 1914
1912 San Francisco

1911 “Sunny Jim” named as official site 1913 Congress controversially approves
Rolph is elected mayor; of 1915 Panama– dam that floods the Hetch Hetchy Valley,
serves until 1930 Pacific Exposition 150 miles (240 km) east of the city
The Golden Age

Neither World War I in Europe nor the beginning of
Prohibition in the US could dampen the city’s renewed
energy after 1906. The 1920s saw the creation of major
museums, theaters, and other civic buildings. Even the
Great Depression was not as painful as it was elsewhere in
the US – many of the city’s monuments, including Coit
Tower and both bay bridges, were built during these Extent of the City
years. World War II brought industrial investment in the Today 1920
form of shipyards at Richmond and Sausalito. Fort Mason

was the main supply base for the Pacific theater, and
shipped out more than 1.5 million soldiers. Tower of Jewels, decorated with
102,000 cut-glass “gems”
Palace of Fine Arts, the only

building still standing today
Panama–Pacific
Fountain of Energy by A. Stirling
Exposition of 1915
Calder, depicting victorious youth
To celebrate the city’s revival after 1906
and to mark the completion of the Panama
Canal, San Francisco hosted the magical Palace of Horticulture with
Exposition, which attracted 20 million plants from all over the world
visitors over 10 months (see p72).
Land of Plenty
California’s farmland
became the most King Oliver’s Creole Band
productive in the US Catching the mood of the 1920s,
in the 1920s. King Oliver’s jazz band became
the hottest combo of the decade.
Panama–Pacific 1929 Stock

1921 de Young
commemorative medal exchange crash
Museum opens
1917 Crissy 1924 California Palace
precipitates
Field Airfield at of the Legion of Depression
Presidio opens Honor opens
1915 1920 1925 1930
1917 Main Public Library 1920 Prohibition 1924 First air-mail 1933 Prohibition
opens at Civic Center begins flight lands at ends
Crissy Field 1927 Mills Field airfield,
1915 Panama–Pacific 1923 President Warren now the site of San
Exposition runs from G. Harding dies at the Francisco International
February 20 to December 4 Palace Hotel Airport, opens
Where to See the

Golden Years
The only survivor of the 1915
Exposition is the landmark
Palace of Fine
Pan American Clippers Arrive Arts (see pp62).
San Francisco Bay was the The Old US Mint
starting point for flights (p119) and the
across the Pacific. History Room of
the Main Library
(p127) both have
Defying Prohibition extensive
Although Prohibition was not displays of
stringently enforced in the city, objects from
drinkers still had to be discreet. this era.
Ticket for Treasure

Island World’s Fair
Festival Hall, the

musical center of
the Exposition,
seated 3,500.
McLaren’s Hedge,
a wall of grass
Sausalito
Shipyard
Longshoreman’s Strike Workers at this
On “Bloody Thursday,” July 5, 1934, shipyard completed
police opened fire on dockers striking one ship a day during
for better conditions, killing two. the World War II period.
1939 World War II in Europe. 1941 Japan attacks

Opening of World’s Fair on US at Pearl Harbor
Treasure Island
1937 Golden Gate 1942 Japanese-American 1945 End of
Hetch Hetchy Dam Bridge opens internment begins World War II
1935 1940 1945
1934 Hetch 1936 Bay Bridge opens. 1945 UN Peace

Hetchy Dam Pan American Clippers Conference held at San
project completed. arrive in the city Francisco April 25–
Three-day general June 25 to found the
strike in sympathy Signing of the United Nations United Nations
with dockers Charter in the city in 1945
Postwar San Francisco

Since World War II, San Francisco has seen both good times and bad.
Site of the founding of the United Nations in 1945, the city was home
to the Beats of the 1950s and the scene of “Love-ins” and “Be-ins” in the
Flower Power 1960s. At the same time, the Bay Area was the scene of
angry antiwar and civil rights demonstrations.
One of the wealthiest parts of the US, the
area was hit hard by AIDS, homelessness,
and a devastating earthquake in 1989.
1970s Leader of the Oakland-based
1969 Indians of All Tribes occupy Black Panthers, Huey Newton (on the
Alcatraz to publicize right) gains widespread sympathy
Indian grievances on college campuses during the
turbulent 1960s and 1970s
1969 San Francisco blues and soul
star Janis Joplin develops
1978 Mayor George Moscone
alcoholism and drug problems. She
is assassinated at City Hall by
dies in 1970 from a heroin overdose
former policeman Dan White,
who also kills
popular gay
politician
Harvey Milk
Neal Cassady and 1950s Jack Kerouac, Neal Cassady, Allen

Jack Kerouac Ginsberg, and others strike chords of
dissatisfaction and creativity to initiate
the “Beat” movement and the “politics George Moscone
of dissent” and free love
1945 1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 1975 1980
1945 1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 1975 1980
August 15, 1945 1965 Ground is

Riotous broken for the 1973
celebrations break 1954 The San Dragon Gateway Transamerica
out across San Francisco on Grant Avenue Pyramid is
Francisco at the International completed and
end of World War II. Airport opens given mixed
Thousands of at former Mills reviews by San
troops return to Field airfield Francisco critics 1978 Apple
the US through the Computer,
Golden Gate which grows
into one of the
1958 The New York Giants Bay Area’s
baseball team moves to largest
San Francisco, bringing businesses,
major league professional designs and
sport to the West Coast produces its
first personal
computer
1967 First Be-in attracts

25,000 hippies and others to
Golden Gate Park for a day
of music. The Monterey Pop
Festival features such talents
as Jimi Hendrix, Otis
1951 Six years after the fighting stopped
Redding, and The Who
between the US and Japan, the treaty ending
the war was signed in the San Francisco War San Francisco
Memorial Opera House Giant Willie Mays
1992 Fires blaze across Oakland

hills killing 26 people and burning 2007 Residents
2002
3,000 houses experience an
3Com Park
naming rights earthquake
1995 Candlestick expire, and measuring 4.2 on
Park renamed stadium the Richter scale
3Com Park becomes
Candlestick 2010 San Francisco Giants win
Park again the World Series; the first win
since the Giants relocated to
2000 Opening San Francisco in 1958
game played at
Pacific Bell Park
2012 San Francisco Giants
(now AT&T Park)
win the World Series for the
eighth time
1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020
1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020
1994 Presidio
2006 San Francisco
Army Base congresswoman
turned over to Nancy Pelosi is the
the National first woman to 2008
Park Service become elected The Contemporary
Speaker of the Jewish Museum,
United States House designed by Daniel
of Representatives Libeskind, opens
1989 Major earthquake hits San

Francisco during World Series baseball
game between Bay Area rivals: freeways
collapse, killing dozens
2014 Michael Morse leads the

San Francisco Giants to victory yet
1999 After 15 years as the speaker of the again in the World Series
California Assembly, Democrat Willie Brown is
sworn in as San Francisco’s first black mayor
INTRODUCING SAN FRANCISCO  37
SAN FRANCISCO AT A GLANCE

More than 200 places of interest are described time-saving guide to the best San Francisco
in the Area by Area section of this book. They has to offer visitors. Museums and architecture
range from the bustling alleys, shops, and each have a section, and there is a guide to the
restaurants of Chinatown to the verdant diverse cultures that have given
expanses of Golden Gate Park, and from the city its unique character.
ornate Victorian houses to soaring city-center Below are the top attractions
skyscrapers. The following 12 pages are a that no tourist should miss.
San Francisco’s Top Tourist Attractions
California Academy of Sciences Ghirardelli Square Coit Tower

See pp152–3 See p87 See pp92–3
Golden Gate Park

See pp144–55
Golden Gate Bridge Grant Avenue

See pp64–7 See p101
Cable Cars
See pp106–107
Union Square Alcatraz Island Japan Center

See p118 See pp82–5 See p130
California Street’s cable car running at night

38  inTrOduCing SAn FrAnCiSCO
San Francisco’s Best: Museums and Galleries

Museums and galleries in the city range from the
Legion of Honor and the de Young Museum to the
contemporary art of the Museum of Modern Art
and the Yerba Buena Center for the Arts. There are
several excellent science museums, including the
Exploratorium and the California Academy of
Sciences. Other museums celebrate San
Francisco’s heritage and the people and events
that made the city what it is today. More details
on the area’s museums and galleries can be found de Young Museum
on pages 40–41. This landmark art museum showcases
collections of art from the Americas, Africa,
and the Pacific, as well as an astounding
collection of textiles, photography, sculptures,
crafts, and modern and contemporary art.
Presidio
Legion of Honor
Sailboat on the Seine (c.1874) by
Monet is part of a collection of
European art from medieval
times to the 19th century.
Golden Gate Park

and Land’s End
Haight
Ashbury and
the Mission
0 kilometers 2
0 miles 1
California Academy of Sciences

Sensitively integrated into the environment
of Golden Gate Park, the California Academy
of Sciences includes an aquarium,
planetarium, and natural history museum.
S A N F R A N C I S C O AT A G L A N C E  39
Chinese Historical Society

This magnificent dragon’s head
belongs to the Society which
administers one of the city’s
smallest museums. Within is a
unique collection that tells
the story of California’s
Chinese communities.
Fort Mason Museums

Muto by Mimmo Paladino
(1985) is in one of the ethnic
culture museums.
Wells Fargo History Museum
This bronze stagecoach (1984) is by M. Casper.
Fisherman’s The small gallery in which this is situated
Wharf and illustrates the colorful history of California,
North Beach from the early days of the Gold Rush.
Pacific
Heights and
the Marina
Chinatown and Financial
Nob Hill District and
Union Square
Civic Center
San Francisco Museum of Modern Art

This highly regarded museum reopened in Spring
2016 following a two-and-a-half year expansion
project, led by architecture firm Snøhetta, which
almost doubled its gallery spaces.
Yerba Buena
Center for the Arts
This gallery at
Yerba Buena
Gardens displays
contemporary art in
Asian Art Museum rotating exhibits;
This museum is located in the there is no
Civic Center, a lovely 1917 Beaux permanent
Arts building. collection.
Exploring San Francisco’s Museums and Galleries

San Francisco boasts a number of established and respectable
Design
collections of paintings, sculpture, photography, artifacts, and
design. In addition, high-profile projects, such as the building Many of the larger, more
prestigious museums in the
of a new home for the Museum of Modern Art and the San Francisco area have worth
renovation of the California Palace of the Legion of Honor, while holdings of design and
assured that the city retained its identity as the US West applied art. Major collections
Coast’s center of art and culture. Other Bay Area treasures of architectural models and
are the many science and technology museums. drawings are held at the
Museum of Modern Art.
You can see Missionstyle
three years of expansion and turnofthecentury Arts
and renovation that and Crafts pieces at the
have brought more Oakland Museum.
vitality than ever. The There is also a small, but
SFMOMA holds works interesting, collection of late
by Picasso and Matisse 18thcentury artifacts and
as well as an extensive furniture on display inside the
holding of drawings and Octagon House, itself a fine,
paintings by Paul Klee. and unique, example of
Abstract Expressionists, Victorian architectural house
particularly Mark design (see pp76–7).
Rothko and Clyfford The California Historical
Still, and California Society (see p115) has an
artists represented by eclectic collection of fine and
Sam Francis and decorative arts as well as the
Richard Diebenkorn, largest single public collection
are also included in this of 19th century California prints
notable collection. and photography.
Saint John the Baptist Preaching (c.1660) Another vibrant
by Mattia Preti at the Legion of Honor showcase for contemporary
artists, the Yerba Buena Photography and Prints
Center for the Arts is well worth Photography is a field in
Painting and Sculpture a visit. The same is true of the which San Francisco’s museums
Two renowned art museums, commercial John Berggruen excel, with worldclass
the Legion of Honor and the Gallery, with its wide variety of examples of most periods and
de Young Museum are works on display by both styles. The Museum of Modern
impressive showcases for a emerging artists and more Art’s collection ranges from
comprehensive collection of mature, wellestablished artists. the earliest form of daguerreo
European and American Outside the city limits, the types to classic images by
painting and sculpture. The Stanford University Museum modern masters such as Helen
Legion of Honor focuses on of Art has excellent sculptures Levitt, Robert Frank, and
French art of the late 19th and by Rodin on display, while both Richard Avedon.
early 20th centuries, with works the UC Berkeley Art Museum Oakland Museum displays
by Renoir, Monet, and Degas, as and the Oakland Museum rolling exhibitions by Bay Area
well as more than 70 sculptures boast valuable art collections. based photographers such as
by Rodin. The famous collection Ansel Adams and
of graphic works owned by the Imogen Cunningham
Achenback Foundation is also and holds documentary
on display here. collections including an
The Asian Art Museum impressive array of
is located in its permanent photographs by iconic
home at the Old Main Library. American photographers
It has Far Eastern paintings, such as Dorothea Lange.
sculpture, artifacts, and fine The Fraenkel and SF
jade figurines. Camerawork galleries
With its vast array of 20th are excellent, while for
century painting and sculpture, prints the Achenbach
the most dynamic of the art Foundation for Graphic
museums in San Francisco is the Arts in the Legion of
Museum of Modern Art, which Fletcher Benton’s “M” sculpture outside the Honor has more than
reopened in spring 2016 after Oakland Museum 100,000 works.
and American art can be seen

Natural History at the Mexican Museum and
An extensive natural the San Francisco Craft and
history collection is Folk Art Museum; Italian-
displayed at the American works of the 20th
California Academy of century are displayed at the
Sciences. This features Museo ItaloAmericano.
such exhibitions as
the evolution of
species, plate tectonics Libraries
After the Earthquake (1906) photograph, (with a vibrating San Francisco has extensive
Mission Dolores museum platform that simulates general libraries including the
an earthquake), and gems and Main Library, which has a
minerals. There is also a large special research collection
History and Local Interest planetarium, and a Fish comprising hundreds of books
No single museum is devoted Roundabout, where and thousands of photographs
to the city’s entire history, visitors cross a ramp focusing on city history. The
although several collections surrounded by a area’s two main
cover different aspects of San tank of sharks and universities, UC
Francisco’s past. A small other sea life. The Berkeley and
museum at Mission Dolores Oakland Museum Stanford, have
gives insight into the city’s has an entire extensive
founding and early period. The floor devoted collections,
Wells Fargo History Museum to the varied Octopus in the Oakland including
has a display on the Gold Rush, eco-systems of Museum historical holdings.
the small museum at the California, which are
Presidio Officers’ Club traces reconstructed through a series
Where to Find the
the area’s military history, and of realistic dioramas.
the California Historical Society Collections
offers fertile ground for Asian Art Museum p128
researchers and history buffs. Art from Other Cultures
Map 4 F5.
Also well worth a visit are the Art and artifacts from
California Academy of
Chinese Historical Society of California’s native cultures
Sciences pp152–3 Map 4 F5.
America and the African- are on display in the Hearst
California Historical Society p115
American Historical and Cultural Museum of Anthropology at
Society Museum at Fort Mason, UC Berkeley. Exhibitions are Chinese Historical Society of
which document the respective drawn from the museum’s America p102
histories of the Chinese and collection. Contemporary Jewish Museum
African-American communities The Contemporary Jewish p115
in San Francisco. Museum explores Judaism de Young Museum p149
through a range of art exhibits Map 8 F2.
and installations. Exploratorium p94
Science and Technology Fort Mason has a wealth of Fort Mason pp74–5
One of the preeminent hands- art from other cultures: ethnic Fraenkel Gallery
on technological museums in 49 Geary St. Map 5 C5.
the world, the Exploratorium John Berggruen Gallery
has hundreds of interactive 228 Grant Avenue. Map 5 C4.
displays that explore the Legion of Honor pp158–9
science behind everyday
Map 4 F5.
events. This is one of San
Mission Dolores p139
Francisco’s most popular
Museum of Modern Art pp120–23
museums, and it is especially
Oakland Museum pp168–9
fascinating for children.
Across the bay, the Lawrence Octagon House p75
Hall of Science at UC Berkeley Presidio Officers’ Club p62
plays an equally important role SF Camerawork
in promoting interest in 657 Mission St. Map 6 D5.
science. South of the city, San Stanford University p171
Jose’s growing Tech Museum Tech Museum of Innovation p170
of Innovation tells the inside UC Berkeley p164
story of computers, developed Wells Fargo History Museum p112
largely in surrounding Silicon Yerba Buena Center for the Arts
Valley, and also has exciting Tile mural (1940–45) by Alfredo Ramos pp116–17
hands-on displays. Martínez, Mexican Museum
Exploring San Francisco’s Many Cultures

Half the population of San Francisco is either foreign-born that followed, the population
or first-generation American. Spanish and Mexican of the Chinese community
pioneers who arrived in the 18th and early 19th centuries shrank due to the Exclusion
Laws. In the 1960s, immigration
established the foundations of today’s city, and the Gold controls were relaxed by
Rush (see pp26–7) attracted fortune-seekers from all over President Kennedy, and
the globe. Those who stayed built new communities and opponents of the Mao regime
some, such as the Italians and the Chinese, have continued living in Hong Kong were
to maintain their own traditions. given permission to emigrate
to the US. The population has
now risen to over 100,000 –
approximately one in five
San Franciscans.
Chinatown (see pp98–102) is
still the city’s most populated
sector, and the heart of the
Chinese community. Banks,
schools, and newspapers testify
to its autonomy, which is as
powerful today as it was when
the first settlers arrived more
than 150 years ago.
The Irish
In the late 1800s, thousands of
Mission District mural commemorating the cease-fire in El Salvador Irish immigrants came to San
Francisco and took what jobs
Francisco. A second wave of they could find. Many worked
The Hispanic-Americans immigrants, almost exclusively as laborers on the huge steam
You cannot go far in San from Canton, arrived to work on shovels used to fill in the
Francisco without coming the transcontinental railroad in bayfront mudflats, while others
across signs of the Hispanic the 1860s. By the 1870s, the joined the police and fire
heritage of a city that was once Chinese formed the largest of departments and rose to
the northernmost outpost of the city’s minority groups, with positions of authority. By the turn
Spanish America, then Mexico. 40,000 people living in poor of the century, Irish labor leaders
After the American takeover in conditions in and around China had become an effective force
1846 (see pp26–7), Mexican town. At this time, Chinese men in the city. There is no readily
landowners were displaced by outnumbered Chinese women identifiable Irish section of San
incoming prospectors and by 20 to one. In the decades Francisco, but Sunset and
settlers, and most were left Richmond districts are packed
homeless. However, many with Irish bars, and the annual St.
stayed in the Bay Area and the Patrick’s Day parade (see p50) still
Hispanic population has draws a considerable crowd.
remained stable (about 10 per-
cent of the total) ever since.
Wandering among the The Italians
taquerias (snack bars) and The original Italians in San
mercados (shops) of the Mission Francisco depended on fishing
District, it is easy to imagine for their livelihood. Today’s
you are somewhere far south thriving North Beach is inhabited
of the border. by descendants of the southern
Italian fishermen who came to
settle here in the late 1800s.
The Chinese The early immigrants
Since the Gold Rush days in to the area were
the late 1840s, when an mostly from the city
estimated 25,000 people of Genoa, the
fled from the chaos of China to
work in the California mines,
the Chinese have maintained A young San Franciscan woman wearing
a significant presence in San Chinese costume
birthplace of Christopher
Columbus, after whom North
Beach’s main avenue is named.
By the turn of the century, the
Sicilians had become the major
force in the area. In the 1940s,
Italians were the predominant
foreign-born group in the city,
with some 60,000 living and
working in the lively North Beach
area alone.
Descendants of the families
who owned and operated the
fleet at Fisherman’s Wharf set up Sign outside a Russian shop in the Richmond District
shops and small businesses here.
The businesses prospered after Hill is named after a party of
World War II, and many families Siberian sailors thought to be The Melting Pot
moved to the suburbs in the buried there. Russians estab- Other cultures are also
1950s and 1960s. However, they lished a successful though represented in the city, but they
often return to “Little Italy” to short-lived colony at Fort are not as distinctly defined.
patronize the excellent Italian Ross (see pp190–91) 100 miles Compared with New York or Los
cafés and restaurants that still (160 km) north of the city, and Angeles, the Jewish community
flourish in the area. many still live in San Francisco. in San Francisco is very small,
Since 1921, five editions a but Jews have still wielded
week of the Russian Times have tremendous influence
been published for the 25,000 throughout the city’s history.
Russians now concentrated in Far Eastern cultures have also
the Richmond District around formed identifiable commu-
the Orthodox Holy Virgin nities. Groups of Vietnamese
Cathedral (see p63). and Cambodians live in the
Tenderloin neighborhood, and
significant populations of
The Japanese Koreans and Thais are scattered
Japanese businesses were active throughout the city.
during the 1980s property Indians and Pakistanis have
An Afro-Caribbean street stall selling boom, buying and building settled in the Bay Area of San
sweet potatoes and yams many prestigious city-center Francisco, particularly in
offices and hotels. Generally, Berkeley and the “Silicon Valley”
however, the 15,000-strong computer industry heartland of
The African-Americans Japanese community in the South Bay.
Although black people have San Francisco keeps
played an important role a low profile. The
throughout San Francisco’s exception is at the
history, the city’s large African- Japan Center
American community is a (see p130), a
relatively recent phenomenon. prominent
In the 1930s, fewer than 5,000 cultural and
blacks lived in San Francisco. shopping complex
Thousands more came to work on Geary Boulevard.
in the factories and shipyards In the late 1930s, this
during World War II, increasing area extended over 40
the black population tenfold. blocks. During World
Some settled in areas made War II, the Japanese
available by the relocation of along the US West
Japanese-Americans to Coast were
internment camps, others in relocated to
newer communities near the internment camps
shipyards in Hunters Point. in the nation’s
interior. After the war,
they drifted back to
The Russians the area, but now
The first trappers and fur traders the community
from Russia visited the bay occupies only
during the early 1800s. Russian six blocks. A police koban (booth) in Japantown
Gay San Francisco: A History Getting Organized:

The history of the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, and Transgender 1960s–1970s
(LGBT) community in San Francisco is in some ways the story of In the 1960s, police raids of gay
the gay movement itself. The city has been a mecca for gay gatherings were common, often
resulting in public exposure of
people for much of its existence, and social and political gains
the arrested and affecting
made here have had reverberations across the globe. The livelihoods. In 1961, José Sarria,
community is now more diverse than ever, spread out across a drag performer at the Black
the entire city, not just the Castro (see p138), and same-sex Cat Café, made history by
partners walk hand-in-hand anywhere from the Financial running for the Board of
District to Pacific Heights. This sense of freedom was a hard- Supervisors as an openly gay
man. Although he wasn’t
won battle fought in the political arena of San Francisco. elected, he proved there was
a “gay vote” and inspired the
re-entry for troops, and founding of the Tavern Guild,
gay soldiers had numerous the country’s first gay business
“off-limits” bars and private association.
gatherings to choose from. Guests at the 1965 fundraising
Also, for the first time in the ball for the Council on Religion
military’s history, homosexuals and the Homosexual (CRH)
were being sought out and were harassed and
dishonorably discharged, and photographed by police as they
many of these men chose to entered. The American Civil
settle in San Francisco rather Liberties Union intervened,
than risk stigmatization ultimately helping gays win
back home. legal support, including a
The bohemian Black Cat Café, Montgomery The 1950s, however, heralded community police liaison officer.
Street, opened in 1933 the real beginnings of a gay Another pivotal event was
social consciousness, with the New York’s Stonewall riots in
founding of several “homophile” 1969. Once gay people had
The Early Days: organizations, which stood up to police, they were
1849–1960 emphasized emotional rather no longer content with mere
The California Gold Rush of 1849 than sexual components of acceptance. “Liberation” and
drew scores of adventurers to same-gender coupling and “pride” became the movement’s
the Bay Area, and its rough-and- advised assimilation within watchwords. Gays wanted not
tumble atmosphere helped heterosexual society.
establish its reputation for Foremost among
sexual license. Life along the these groups were
Barbary Coast offered freedom the Mattachine
from the conser vative mores Society, which first
of the rest of the country, and advanced the idea
by the beginning of the 20th of gay people as an
century the city was already oppressed minority,
being called “Sodom by the Sea.” and the Daughters
During World War II, the city’s of Bilitis, the first
gay population positively lesbian sociopolitical
exploded. San Francisco was a organization in the The colorful Gay Pride Parade celebrates the city’s gay
main point of deployment and United States. history, culture and community
2008 California Supreme

1948 Alfred Kinsey’s 1970 First San
1955 Daughters Francisco Gay Pride 2002 First Court overturns state’s
groundbreaking ban on same-sex
Sexual Behaviour of Bilitis, the Parade, called “Gay-In” purpose-built
nation’s first LGBT center marriage. This was
in the Human 1974 First Castro soon invalidated
Male is published lesbian group, opens
is formed Street Fair by Proposition 8
1930 1940 1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1981 First case of
2004 Mayor
1930s First gay bars 1964 Life magazine Kaposi’s sarcoma 2012 California
appear, including article “Homosexuality Newson allows Court rules
(AIDS-related cancer) same-sex
artists’ hangout, in America” names Proposition 8
the Black Cat San Francisco “the 1969 Police raid the Stonewall Inn in New marriages but unconstitutional
Café, and Mona’s, capital of the York. Ensuing riots signal the start of the these are later
a lesbian bar gay world” modern gay liberation movement annulled
just equal treatment but also

gay events, businesses, and Fairs, Festivals,
organizations to thrive. and Events
With the establishment of AIDS Candlelight Vigil
the Castro as a gay area, the May, usually 3rd Sunday.
community gained political AIDS Walk San Francisco
force. In 1977, local shop owner July, date varies.
Tel 6159255.
Harvey Milk was elected to the
Castro Street Fair
Board of Supervisors, becoming October, usually first Sunday.
the nation’s first openly gay Folsom Street Fair
elected official. His tenure was September, usually last Sunday.
cut short in 1978 when he and Tel 7773247.
Mayor George Moscone were Last and main event for popular
shot at City Hall by Dan White. Leather Week. Not only for the
leather and fetish community.
This further fueled the political
Gay Pride Month
movement – when White was June, various events, including
found guilty only of man The right to a same-sex wedding is an Dyke March (last Saturday of
slaughter and given a light ongoing political battle the month).
sentence, the city rioted in what Gay Pride Parade
became known as “White Night.” June, last Sunday of the month.
Recovery: 1990–Present Tel 8640831. ∑ sfpride.org
Halloween
The 1990s were perhaps most
The Plague Years: 1980s marked by the increase in
October 31. Party along Market
and Castro Streets. Map 10 D2.
After all the hardwon political political clout for gay people, Home for the Holidays
gains of the previous decades, with the passage of domestic December 24. SF Gay Men’s
the community was decimated partnership laws, more gay Chorus Christmas concert at the
by a new adversary. In 1981, the politicians being elected, Castro Theatre (see p138).
first incidence of a rare form of military policies on gays being Pink Saturday
June, Saturday evening before
cancer was reported and within challenged, and much more. Pride March (men and women).
months, word spread of a The AIDS epidemic bred new Women’s alternate Pride parade
disease dubbed “the gay forms of participation in San and party in the Castro.
cancer.” The disease was later Francisco’s gay community and SF International Lesbian and
named AIDS (AutoImmune to some degree made it more Gay Film Festival
Deficiency Syndrome), which is cohesive. But the sheer numbers June, usually ten days before
Gay Pride Day.
caused by the HIV virus (Human of members lost means that the Tel 7038650.
Immunodeficiency Virus). The community is once again Up Your Alley Fair
city’s gay community became redefining itself. In these days of July, last Sunday.
one of the hardest hit, with as samesex onscreen kissing and Tel 7773247. SoMa’s
many as half of the city’s gay prom dating, gender roles are Dore Street fair. Map 11 A2.
men infected with HIV. It also more fluid, and there’s less of a
became a model in developing sense of urgency to sorting out
a response. People rapidly the “rules” of sexuality. Contact Information
mobilized to establish That said, the politics of Betty’s List
education and prevention being gay are very much in Tel 5031375.
efforts and communitybased the forefront, and were put ∑ bettyslist.com
services to care for people famously on view by Mayor Online community directory.
GLBT Historical Society
with AIDS. San Francisco also Gavin Newsom’s attempt at
657 Mission Street. Map 6 D4.
leaped to the forefront of legalizing samesex marriage. Tel 7775455. ∑ glbthistory.org
research, establishing the Some 3,000 couples were HIV Nightline
San Francisco AIDS Foundation wed at City Hall in February Tel 4342437.
and the Center for AIDS of 2004, a historic event James C. Hormel
Prevention Studies at the broadcast around the world. Gay and Lesbian Center
UCSF Medical School. The marriages were later 100 Larkin St. Map 11 A1.
Tel 5574400.
invalidated by
SF City Clinic
Proposition 8 in 2008, 356 7th St. Map 11 B2.
which eliminated the Tel 4875500.
rights of samesex STD testing/counseling.
couples to marry. SF LGBT Community Center
This was clearly the 1800 Market Street. Map 10 E1.
opening salvo of an Tel 8655555.
ongoing battle as Sex Information Hotline
Tel 9897374.
this Proposition has
Suicide Prevention Hotline
The San Francisco AIDS Fund, now AIDS Emergency Fund since been ruled Tel 7810500 or 8002732437.
(AEF), established in 1982 unconstitutional.
46  inTrOduCing SAn FrAnCiSCO
San Francisco’s Best: Architecture

Architectural highlights in San Francisco are mostly
small-scale; the overall fabric, rather than specific
buildings, lends the city its unique character. One
memorable aspect is the wide variety of house
styles, ranging from Arts and Crafts rustic chalets
to grand Victorian mansions. Commercial buildings
reflect a gamut of styles from Beaux Arts to
Postmodern. This map gives some highlights, with
a detailed overview on pages 48–9.
Octagon House
Octagonal houses were popular in the
mid-1800s because they allowed in more
sunlight than traditional Victorian designs.
Pacific Heights
Haas-Lilienthal House and the Marina
This large Queen Anne-style house is
a typical upper-middle-class dwelling Presidio
of the late 1880s.
Civic Center
Golden Gate Park

and Land’s End
Haight Ashbury
and the Mission
0 kilometers 2
0 miles 1
City Hall
Many of the city’s civic buildings
are examples of Classical Beaux
Arts style.
Goslinsky House
The charming Arts and Crafts style
was popular at the turn of the
century in San Francisco.
Hotaling Building (1866)

This Jackson Square edifice was the
largest of many neighboring Gold Rush
buildings to survive the 1906 earthquake.
It was a whisky distillery and warehouse.
Coit Tower (1934)

The fluted column of Coit Tower
on Telegraph Hill is one of the
city’s best-known landmarks.
Old St. Mary’s

Cathedral
Fisherman’s Standing among the
Wharf and pagodas of Chinatown,
North Beach the brick walls of this
Gothic church date
back to the Gold Rush.
Hallidie Building
Financial Built in 1917 by prolific
Chinatown District and local architect Willis
and Nob Hill Union Square Polk, this was the
world’s first glass-
curtain-walled building.
It is topped with an
elaborate cast-iron
cornice.
Union Square
Before he built New York’s
famous Guggenheim Museum
in 1959, architect Frank Lloyd
Wright experimented with the
use of ramps in this small Union
Square shop.
SFMOMA
Built in 1995 at a cost of
$60 million, and extensively
renovated in 2014–16, the San
Francisco Museum of Modern
Art is one of the largest modern
art museums in the US.
Exploring San Francisco’s Architecture

Few structures survive from the Mission or Gold Rush eras, Octagon House. Also worth a
and the 1906 earthquake and fire destroyed many major visit are the houses along the
Victorian buildings. As the city was rebuilt, architecture east side of Alamo Square, the
group of well-preserved
became a focus of civic pride, and grand Neo-Classical working-class cottages in
edifices in the Beaux Arts style embodied the city’s Cottage Row, and Clarke’s
resurgence. By the 1930s, the Financial District’s office Folly, an elaborate 1892 Queen
towers proclaimed its importance as the commercial center Anne-style “country house”
of the west. Engineering advances and soaring property now stranded in the cityscape.
values in the late 1960s gave rise to San Francisco’s
towering skyscrapers. Arts and Crafts
A more rustic, down-to-earth
buildings on the 700 block of style was adopted after the turn
Mission Montgomery Street. of the century, inspired by the
Between 1776 and 1823, English Arts and Crafts
Spanish missionaries employed movement. Architects used
American Indian laborers to Victorian redwood and uncut stone,
construct seven missions and The most distinctive aspect of borrowing decorative Japanese
three fortresses, or “presidios,” in the city’s architecture is its array motifs, to achieve a natural
the Bay Area. Known as the of Victorian houses with their look. An entire block of Arts
Mission style, this architecture is elaborate ornamentation (see and Crafts houses surrounds
characterized by thick walls of pp76–7). Examples of these Bernard Maybeck’s Goslinsky
rough adobe bricks, red tile timber-frame houses can be House in Pacific Heights, and
roofs, and arcaded galleries found throughout the city, but across the bay in Berkeley, his
surrounding courtyards. Fine only two are open to the public: Church of Christ, Scientist is a
examples of the style are Haas-Lilienthal particularly fine example.
Mission Dolores, San House and
Francisco’s oldest building, and
the mission at Carmel.
Gold Rush
At the height of the Gold Rush,
most buildings were only
temporary, but as the
population stabilized, fireproof
brick was used. The best
survivors from the time are
preserved as part of Jackson
Square Historical District.
Particularly noteworthy
examples include Hotaling’s
Warehouse and Distillery, which
dates from the 1860s, with cast-
iron pilasters and fireproof Victorian mansion built for Mark Hopkins on Nob Hill, destroyed in the fire
shutters, and three 1850s that followed the 1906 earthquake
Religious Architecture
The architectural diversity of the city is
most apparent in its churches. Since the
first simple, white-walled, and red-tile-
roofed missions, the city’s churches have
been built in an array of styles from Gothic
to Baroque, with numerous hybrids in
between. Many prominent churches
were built during the eclectic Victorian
era of the late 19th century, and their
architectural styles reflect the traditions
of the countries from which their St. Stephen’s Lutheran First Unitarian Church
congregations came. German Renaissance Gothic Revival
the Veterans Building (both

by Arthur Brown, 1932); and Contemporary
the oldest building in the Civic Among the city’s contemporary
Center, the Bill Graham Civic projects are the Yerba Buena
Auditorium (John Galen Center for the Arts by Fumihiko
Howard, 1915). Maki (1993), the Museum of
Modern Art by Mario Botta
(1994) and Snøhetta (2016),
Commercial and Daniel Libeskind’s
Two early office buildings that Contemporary Jewish
are of architectural significance Museum (1994). The SFJAZZ
are Willis Polk’s Hallidie Center by Mark Cavagnero
Building (1917), the world’s Associates (2013) is a remarkable
first glass-curtain-walled transparent structure with
structure, and his stately flexible seating.
Merchant’s Exchange (1906).
Timothy Pflueger’s building
at 450 Sutter Street (1929) is a
Beaux Arts-style Palace of Fine Arts shining example of Art Deco
design. Its lobby is beautifully
detailed with red marble and
Beaux Arts embossed aluminum.
The rigorously Neo-Classical style The Union Square Frank The imaginative facade of the Museum of
of the Parisian Ecole des Beaux Lloyd Wright Building (Xanadu Modern Art
Arts was favored by designers in Gallery) was designed in 1949 by
San Francisco for major buildings Wright. The interior spirals up to
following the 1906 earthquake. a mezzanine, while the façade is Where to Find the
Opulent colonnades, sculptures, broken by an arched, tunnel-like Buildings
and pediments are typical of entrance. The 853 ft (256 m) 450 Sutter St. Map 5 B4.
this lavish style, which was Transamerica Pyramid (William Alamo Square p131
readily adopted in a city eager Pereira, 1972) is also a notable Asian Art Museum p128
to signal to the world its piece of commercial architecture. Bill Graham Civic Auditorium p128
recovery from devastation. Carmel Mission p189
The most perfect illustration Center for the Arts pp116–17
Church of Christ, Scientist
of Beaux Arts style in the city is
2619 Dwight Way, Berkeley.
Bernard Maybeck’s Palace of City Hall p129
Fine Arts, built as the focus of Clarke’s Folly p141
the 1915 Panama–Pacific Contemporary Jewish Museum p115
Exposition, and acclaimed as the Cottage Row p130
city’s most vibrant celebration of First Unitarian Church
the art of architecture. 1187 Franklin St. Map 4 F4.
Other impressive examples Goslinsky House
3233 Pacific Ave. Map 3 C3.
surround Civic Center Plaza: the
Haas-Lilienthal House p72
City Hall (Arthur Brown, 1915); Hallidie Building
the old Main Library, now the 130–150 Sutter St. Map 5 C4.
Asian Art Museum (George Jackson Sq Historical District p112
Kelham, 1915); the War Highly ornate Art Deco lobby of 450 Merchant’s Exchange p114
Memorial Opera House and Sutter Street Mission Dolores p139
Museum of Modern Art pp120–23
Notre Dame des Victoires
564–66 Bush Street. Map 5 C4.
Octagon House p75
Palace of Fine Arts p62
St. Boniface Church, 133 Golden
Gate Ave. Map 11 A1.
St. Paulus Lutheran Church
999 Eddy St. Map 4 F5.
St. Stephen’s Episcopal Church
858–64 Fulton St. Map 4 E5.
SFJAZZ Center
201 Franklin St. Map 4 F5.
Transamerica Pyramid p113
Union Sq FL Wright Bldg p118
St. Paulus Gothic St. Boniface Notre Dame des Victoires Veterans Building p129
Romanesque Roman and Byzantine War Memorial Opera House p129
SAN FRANCISCO
THROUGH THE YEAR
Springtime in San Francisco sees a city returns in September. Cool clear nights set
awakening from winter slumbers, with leaves in at the end of the year, with occasional
returning to the trees, and the last gray whales snowfalls on Mount Diablo. The main annual
migrating north along the coast. By May and events are listed below. For up-to-date
June the air is often warm, and windsurfers information, the San Francisco Visitor
can be seen on the bay. In August, morning Information Center (see p266) provides a
fog rolls in from the sea, but summer weather free calendar of year-round city events.
Easter
Spring Easter Sunrise Services
Springtime is the season for Thousands of worshipers
long walks around San gather at dawn in front of
Francisco, wandering through the huge cross on Mount
the parks or along city center Davidson, the highest hill
streets washed by overnight in the city.
rains. In April, bulbs come into
bloom in the parks and gardens, April
and wildflowers cover the Cherry Blossom Festival
headlands on either side of the (mid- to late Apr). This
Golden Gate. In May, thousands celebration of traditional
of runners join the Bay to Japanese arts and crafts
Breakers race. attracts dancers,
drummers, artists, and
March craftspeople from all
San Francisco International around the Bay Area. It
Asian American Film Festival takes place at the Japan Glittering Carnaval celebrations in the Mission
(Mar). The largest showcase Center (see p130), where District of San Francisco
for new Asian-American and there are lively perform-
Asian films in North America. ances and a colorful May
St. Patrick’s Day Parade (Sun parade. Bay to Breakers (late May).
nearest Mar 17). Bars filled San Francisco International Partly a serious race, partly a
with merrymakers watch the Film Festival (late Apr–early mad dash in funny costumes,
parade down Market Street. May). For two weeks there are contenders run 7.5 miles
screenings every day (12.5 km) from the Ferry Building
at the Kabuki (see p250) to Ocean Beach (see p155).
and other theaters. Cinco de Mayo (early May).
American and Mexican cultural celebration,
international films with a carnival in the Civic
are shown, many of Center and special events in
them for the first time the Mission District.
in the US. Carnaval SF (last weekend).
Wildflower Walks (Apr). Latin American and Caribbean
Guided walks are festival in the Mission District,
offered at various with salsa and reggae bands.
San Francisco natural
areas by volunteers.
Commercial guided
tours are offered in
the Marin Headlands
(see pp176–7).
Opening Day of
Baseball Season
(late Apr–early May).
Sports fans turn out
to see their baseball
heroes perform
Colorful traditional costumes at the Japanese at AT&T Park and
Cherry Blossom Festival O.co Coliseum. The Bay to Breakers run
SAN FRANCISCO THROUGH THE YEAR  51
Average Daily Hours of Sunshine Sunshine Chart

The sunniest months
Days Days
in San Francisco are
25 25
September and
20 20 October. In mid-
summer almost
15 15 everywhere else in
the Bay Area is both
10 10 warmer and sunnier.
The Napa Valley (see
5 5
pp192–5) and other
0 0 inland valleys are
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec baking hot and dry.
Summer Foggy Days

Mark Twain is said to have Afternoon and evening fogs are
commented that the coldest common in San Francisco during
winter he ever spent was a the summer months. They form
summer in San Francisco. June far out over the sea and roll in
and July see the city besieged through the Golden Gate,
by tourists from all over the shrouding parts of the city with a
cold, damp cloud. These fogs are
world, who often complain
sometimes so dense that they
about the “cold” that can ruin
can cause the temperature to fall
their otherwise perfect days. by as much as 20° F (10° C) in a
matter of hours.
June Golden Gate Bridge in fog
North Beach Festival (mid-Jun).
Arts and crafts, bands and food
stalls in the Italian district on largest of its kind in the US –
Grant Avenue, Green Street, and more than 300,000 people
Washington Square. every year attend the Market
Juneteenth (mid- to late Jun). Street parade and Civic Center
African-American cultural celebrations.
celebration, with jazz and blues
bands along Oakland’s Lake July
Merritt (see p166). 4th of July Fireworks (Jul 4).
Haight Street Fair (Sat or Sun in On the waterfront at Crissy
late Jun). Bands play, and there Field National Recreation Area AT&T Park is home to the San Francisco
are food stalls along Haight St (see p62) American Indepen- Giants baseball team
(see p136). dence Day is celebrated with a
Lesbian and Gay Pride Day spectacular pyrotechnic display (late Jul). 3,500 athletes race
(Sun in late Jun). The biggest at Golden Gate Bridge. around San Francisco, with
show in San Francisco and the San Francisco Marathon Golden Gate Bridge as the
starting point.
August
Baseball (season Apr–Sep). The
San Francisco Giants (AT&T Park)
and Oakland Athletics (O.co
Coliseum) play games
throughout the summer (see
p260). Tickets are usually available
on the day of play, although the
best seats sell out in advance.
San Francisco Playwright’s
Festival (last week Jul– first week
Aug). Fort Mason Center (see
pp74–5). Readings, workshops,
and performances of new
works. Audiences can discuss
the performances with the
Lesbian and Gay Pride Parade to the Civic Center artists at special sessions.
Average Monthly Temperature Temperature Chart

The chart shows the
°C °F
average minimum
20 70
and maximum
16 temperatures for each
6 month. San Francisco
12 and the Bay area
4 enjoy mild weather all
8 year round, with
2 temperatures seldom
4
rising above 70° F
0 0 (21° C) or falling
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec below 40° F (4° C).
October
Fall Castro Street Fair (first Sun). One
San Franciscans reclaim their of the city’s largest and longest-
city from the visitors in running street celebrations
September, just as the Bay (see p138).
Area summer begins. Fleet Week (early Oct).
Many outdoor festivities A celebration of the US
and cultural events Navy. Vessels gather near
take place in the parks Golden Gate Bridge,
and on the streets, and there are art
while the football, displays, keynote
opera, and symphony speakers, and music.
seasons all open in SF Litquake (early to
the fall. mid-Oct). A week-long Columbus Day Parade
literary festival. Many
September of the Bay Area’s in Liberty Meadow especially
49ers and Raiders finest writers take for the event.
Football (season part in readings, talks, Halloween (Oct 31). The night
begins Sep). and performances. is celebrated by thousands of
Various arenas. 49ers game Columbus Day revelers dressed in costume all
To December, or season starts Parade (Sun nearest converging on Market Street.
January if teams are in September Oct 12). Pageant and Castro Street. Though no
the playoffs (see p260). and procession down longer sanctioned by the city,
San Francisco’s Opera Opening Columbus Ave in North Beach, many die-hards still take part.
Night this glamorous gala finishing at Fisherman’s Wharf. San Francisco Jazz Festival
event launches the San Shakespeare in the Park (late Oct–early Nov). All-star jazz
Francisco opera season which (Sats and Suns from Labor festival (p254).
runs from September through Day). Free performances in
December. It is a formal black- Golden Gate Park. A temporary November
tie ball held at War Memorial outdoor theater is erected Dia de los Muertos/Day of the
Opera House, Van Ness Ave Dead (Nov 2). Mexican
(see p252). Halloween, marked
Fringe Festival (early to mid- by a nighttime
Sep). The city celebrates its procession through
theater culture with a series the Mission District.
of alternative performances Costumes, dances,
ranging from the intensely Halloween food.
dramatic to the mildly absurd. The Big Game (third
Valley of the Moon Vintage Sat). Major university
Festival (mid- to late Sep). football event when
California’s oldest wine California Golden Bears
festival takes place at Sonoma play Stanford Cardinal,
Plaza, Sonoma. alternately at Stanford
Folsom Street Fair (last Sun). and UC Berkeley
Predominantly gay and lesbian (see p260).
event between 11th and 17th International Auto
Streets. Music, comedy, crafts, Show (late Nov) is now
dancing, and beer garden. Pro- held at the Moscone
ceeds are donated to charity. Day of the Dead procession in November Center (see pp116–17).
SAN FRANCISCO THROUGH THE YEAR  53
Average Monthly Rainfall

MM Inches Rainfall Chart
125 5
The average annual
100 4 rainfall for San Francisco
is about 19 in (122 cm).
75 3 Most rain falls from
November to March,
50 2 sometimes for days at a
time, and there are
25 1
often torrential storms.
0 0
The driest months are
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec May to September.
Winter
The Christmas shopping season
starts the day after Thanksgiving
with the lighting of the Union
Square tree, while appealing
pets appear in the windows of
Gump’s store (see p118). Families
of gray whales pass on their
annual migration between
Alaska and Mexico.
December
Christmas Displays in Union
Square store windows (see p118)
compete to be the best.
Holiday Lights Boat Parade Chinese New Year celebrations in Chinatown
(mid-Dec). More than 100
boats with lights and holiday January February
decorations parade along the New Year’s Day Swim (Jan 1). Black History Month. African-
waterfront. Sponsored swim at Aquatic Park American events take place
The Nutcracker (3rd week) is (see pp174–5). throughout the city.
performed by the San Francisco Russian Orthodox Christmas Chinese New Year Parade
Ballet at the War Memorial (Jan 7–8). Ceremony in Holy (date varies, usually early Feb).
Opera House (see p252). Virgin Cathedral (see p63). Parade through Financial District
Sing for your Life (Dec 30 & 31). Gray Whale Migration (Jan– and Chinatown featuring a
24 hours of singing in Grace Apr). Watch from the coast, colorful dragon (see pp96–102
Cathedral (see p105). or take a boat (see p260). and 109–123).
Public Holidays
New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
Martin Luther King Day
(3rd Mon in Jan)
President’s Day (3rd Mon
in Feb)
Memorial Day (last Mon in May)
Independence Day (Jul 4)
Labor Day (1st Mon in Sep)
Columbus Day (2nd Mon
in Oct)
Election Day (1st Tue in Nov)
Veterans Day (Nov 11)
Thanksgiving Day (4th Thu
in Nov)
Christmas Day (Dec 25)
Christmas tree and decorations in Nieman Marcus department store
SAN FRANCISCO
AREA BY AREA
The 49-Mile Scenic Drive 56–57

Presidio 58–67
Pacific Heights and the Marina 68–77
Fisherman’s Wharf and
North Beach 78–95
Chinatown and Nob Hill 96–107
Financial District and
Union Square 108–123
Civic Center 124–131
Haight Ashbury and
the Mission 132–143
Golden Gate Park and
Land’s End 144–159
Farther Afield 160–171
Five Guided Walks 172–183
56  SAN FRANCISCO AREA BY AREA
The 49-Mile Scenic Drive

Linking the city’s most intriguing k Marina Green
neighborhoods, fascinating sights, and This is an excellent
vantage point from
spectacular views, the 49-Mile Scenic which to view or
Drive (79 km) provides a splendid photograph Golden
overview of San Francisco for the Gate Bridge.
determined motorist. Keeping to the
well-marked route is simple enough – l Palace of Fine Arts
just follow the blue-and-white seagull stands near the entrance
to the wooded Presidio.
signs. Some of these are hidden by
overhanging vegetation or buildings,
so you need to be alert. You should set J
aside a whole day for this trip; there are
plenty of places to stop to take photographs
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AVENUE
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Primate Discovery Center. Starting point: Anywhere. The
PINE LAKE PARK circuit is designed to be followed
in a counterclockwise direction
SLOAT BLVD
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When to go: Avoid driving during

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LIN
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MUNICIPAL
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LAKE
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MERCED
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SKYLINE BLVD
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D
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THE 49-MILE SCENIC DRIVE  57
i Civic Center is the stately official and

administrative heart of San Francisco,
where imposing Beaux Arts buildings
surround a central plaza.
h Maritime National
Historic Park Visitor Center
has a fine collection of ship
models, photographs, and
relics, with many historic
ships moored nearby at
Hyde Street Pier.
g Coit Tower
Overlooking North Beach, Telegraph Hill is topped by this tower
(on the left), which has stunning murals and a viewing terrace.
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101 280
Finding the Sights t Ferry Building pp114–15

1 Presidio p62 y Exploratorium pp94–5
2 Fort Point p62 u Embarcadero Center p112
3 Land’s End p159 i Civic Center pp126–7
4 Legion of Honor p158 o St. Mary’s Cathedral p130
5 Sutro Heights Park p159 p Japan Center p130
6 Cliff House p159 a Union Square p118
7 Queen Wilhelmina Tulip s Chinatown Gateway p100
Garden p155 d Grace Cathedral p105
8 San Francisco Zoo and f Cable Car Museum p105
Gardens p162 g Coit Tower pp92–3
9 Stow Lake p154 h Maritime National
0 Conservatory of Flowers p154 Historic Park Visitor
q Haight Street p136 Center p87
w Sutro Tower p141 j Fort Mason pp74–5
Grant Avenue in San Francisco’s e Twin Peaks p141 k Marina Green p75
Chinatown (see p101) r Mission Dolores p139 l Palace of Fine Arts p62
PRESIDIO
Once the nation’s premier army post, the offers experiences for everyone. Bike along
Presidio, located in a corner of the city the shoreline, glimpse rare birds and native
bounded by beach, bluff, and stunning wildflowers, learn about architecture and
views, has been transformed into a new California history, take in a concert and great
kind of National Park site. Thousands of meal, spend the night in former officers’
people visit every year to enjoy a vibrant quarters at the Inn at the Presidio, picnic on
mix of museums, restaurants, events, trails, the historic Main Parade Ground, or relax at
and recreational destinations. The Presidio one of the eight scenic overlooks.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Churches and Temples Restaurants
1 Palace of Fine Arts 7 Holy Virgin Cathedral see pp224–7
3 Presidio Officers’ Club 9 Temple Emanu-El 1 Aziza
5 Golden Gate Bridge pp64–7 Parks and Gardens 2 Burma Superstar
8 Clement Street 3 Gaspare’s Pizza House & Italian
6 Baker Beach
Museums and Galleries 4 King of Thai
5 Pizzetta 211
2 The Walt Disney Family Museum
6 The Presidio Social Club
4 Fort Point and Crissy Field
7 The Tipsy Pig
8 The Warming Hut
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0 meters 750
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The stunning Palace of Fine Arts For keys to map symbols see back flap
A Tour of the Presidio

The Presidio’s lush landscaping belies its long
military history. This site has played a key role in
San Francisco’s growth, and has been occupied
longer than any other part of the city. Remnants
of its military past, including barracks, can be seen
everywhere, and there are 24 miles (39 km) of
hiking trails, cycle paths, and beaches. A free
shuttle operates within the park, stopping at 40
destinations. Golden Gate Bridge crosses the bay
from the northwest corner of the Presidio. 4 Fort Point
This impressive brick fortress, now a
national historic site, guarded the Golden
Gate during the Civil War of 1861–5.
Gulf of the Farallones

Golden Gate National Marine Sanctuary
Bridge Visitor Gift Visitor Center
Center
5 . Golden Gate Bridge

Opened in 1937, the bridge has a
center span of 4,200 ft (1,280 m).
Marine Drive is
a waterfront
road, lined
with palm
trees.
Coastal Trail start Lobos Creek is a small

stream that provides
the Presidio with
drinking water.
6 Baker Beach
The Presidio’s western The Pet Cemetery has
edge harbors the surf been going since 1945
and sand of Baker Beach, and is the final resting
one of the best of the place for many
city’s beaches. people’s family pets.
PRESIDIO  61
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 1
4 Crissy Field, reclaimed from marshland for the 1915

Panama–Pacific Exposition, was used as an airfield from
1919 to 1936. It is now a National Recreation Area.
Captured Cannon,
San Francisco a 19th-century cannon from
National Cemetery the Spanish-American War, is
Walt Disney still located on the grounds.
holds the remains of
Family Museum
30,000 soldiers
killed in action.
0 meters 500
0 yards 500
The Ecology Trail

starts at Inspiration
Point, inside the
Golf Arguello Gate.
course
The main parade ground
was first laid out in the mid-
Mountain Lake is one of 1890s. The buildings around
the few remaining natural it include Civil War officers’
lakes in San Francisco. quarters and barracks from
the Spanish-American War.
1 Palace of Fine Arts

Designed to resemble a Roman
ruin for the 1915 Panama Pacific
International Exposition.
3 Presidio Officers’ Club

Built over the remains of the old Spanish El Presidio, the
Officers’ Club now houses two spectacular event spaces.
1 Palace of
Fine Arts
3301 Lyon St, Marina District. Map 3
C2. Tel (415) 563-6504. @ 22, 29, 30,
43, 45, 47, 49. Open for events only.
One of San Francisco’s most

prominent pieces of architecture,
the Palace of Fine Arts is the
sole survivor of the many
grandiose monuments built as
part of the 1915 Panama-Pacific
Exposition (see pp32–3). The
building was not intended to An old Army shed, now the Crissy Field Warming Hut Bookstore and Café
last beyond the Exposition and
subsequently suffered serious 4 Fort Point and 5 Golden Gate
decay. Following restoration, it Crissy Field
now functions as a space for a
Bridge
range of performing arts includ- Marine Drive. Map 2 E1. Tel 556-1693. See pp64–7.
ing theater, music and dance. Open 10am–5pm Thurs–Tues (winter:
Fri–Sun only). 7 partial.
6 Baker Beach
2 The Walt Disney Completed by the US Army in Map 2 D4. Open dawn–dusk daily.
Family Museum 1861, this fort was built partly
to protect San Francisco Bay Baker Beach is the largest and
104 Montgomery St. Map 3 A2. from any attack, and partly to most popular stretch of sand in
Tel 345-6800. @ 28L, 43. Open 10am– defend ships carrying gold from the city and is often crowded
6pm Wed–Mon. Closed Jan 1,
California mines. It is the most with sunbathers. The chilly
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. &
prominent of the many fortifi- water and strong currents make
∑ waltdisney.org
cations constructed along the it a dangerous place to swim,
Opened in 2009, this fascinating coast, and is a classic example but it is a fine place to go for a
museum documents the life of a pre-Civil War brick fortress. walk. Fishing is also good here.
and achievements of Walt The building soon became There are forests of pine and
Disney (1901–66). A series of ten obsolete, as its 10-ft- (3-m-) cypress on the bluffs above
interactive galleries incorporate thick brick walls would not have the beach, where visitors can
film clips, storyboards, and scripts stood up to powerful modern explore Battery Chamberlin, a
to tell the story of the man and weaponry. It was closed in 1900, gun emplacement from 1904.
his amazing career. Visitors will never having come under attack. On the first weekend of each
discover Hollywood’s first The brickwork vaulting is month rangers show the
feature-length animated film and unusual for San Francisco, “disappearing gun,” a heavy rifle
early drawings of Mickey Mouse where the ready availability that can be lowered behind a
alongside exhibits dedicated to of good timber encouraged thick wall to protect it from
Disney’s home life including wood-frame constructions. This enemy fire, and then raised
photographs and movies. may have saved the fort from again in order to be fired.
collapse in the 1906 earthquake
(see pp30–31). It was nearly
3 Presidio Officers’ demolished in the 1930s to
Club make way for the Golden Gate
Bridge, but it survived and is
50 Moraga Ave. Map 3 A2. now a good place from which
Tel 561-4400. @ 29, 43. to view the bridge. National
Park Service rangers in Civil War
The Officers’ Club, situated in the costume conduct guided tours.
southwest corner of the Plaza A tidal marsh once covered the
de Armas, overlooks the parade area called Crissy Field. After
grounds of the Presidio and the two centuries of military use,
19th-century barracks. Built in the the Field was transformed into
Spanish Mission style (see p48) in a waterfront park for recreation
the 1930s, it incorporates the and education. The Crissy Field
adobe (sun-dried brick) remains Center offers a rich array of
of the original 18th-century programs, including many
Spanish fort and hosts events geared toward kids, from
and exhibits on California history. wildlife treks to kite-flying. Golden Gate Bridge seen from Baker Beach
PRESIDIO  63
7 Holy Virgin
Cathedral
6210 Geary Blvd. Map 8 D1.
Tel 221-3255. @ 2, 29, 38, 38L.
5 8am, 6pm daily. ∑ sfsobor.com
Shining gold onion-shaped

domes crown the Russian
Orthodox Holy Virgin Cathedral
of the Russian Church in Exile,
a startling landmark in the
suburban Richmond District.
Built in the early 1960s, it is
generally open only during
services. In contrast to those
of many other Christian
denominations, the services
here are conducted with the
congregation standing, so
there are no pews or seats.
The cathedral and the many
Russian-owned businesses
nearby, such as the lively
Russian Renaissance restaurant,
are situated at the heart of San
Francisco’s extensive Russian
community (see p43). This has
flourished since the 1820s, The Russian Orthodox Holy Virgin Cathedral
but expanded greatly when
more immigrants arrived after in general is on East Asian 9 Temple Emanu-El
the Russian Revolution of 1917, cuisine. However, the area is
Lake St and Arguello Blvd. Map 3 A4.
and especially in the late 1950s known for the diversity of its
Tel 751-2535. @ 1, 1BX, 2, 33.
and late 1980s. restaurants, and Peruvian, Open 8 by appointment only. 7
Russian, and French ∑ emanuelsf.org
establishments, among many
8 Clement Street others, also flourish here. After World War I hundreds
The street stretches from of Jews from Russia and
Map 1 C5. @ 2, 29, 44.
Arguello Boulevard to the Eastern Europe moved into
This is the bustling main north–south cross-streets which the Richmond District and built
thoroughfare of the otherwise are known as “The Avenues.” It religious centers that are still
sleepy Richmond District. ends near the Legion of Honor major landmarks. Among these
Bookstores and small boutiques (see pp158–9). is the Temple Emanu-El, its
flourish here, and the dome inspired by that of the
inhabitants of the 6th-century Santa Sophia in
neighborhood meet Istanbul. The temple is a
together in a lively majestic piece of architecture.
mix of bars, fast-food It was built in 1925 for the
cafés, and ethnic city’s longest-established
restaurants. Most of Jewish congregation (which
these are patronized was founded in 1850). The
more by locals than architect was Arthur Brown,
by tourists. Clement who also designed San
Street is surrounded Francisco’s City Hall (see p129).
by an area known as With its red-tiled dome,
New Chinatown, Emanu-El is a Californian
home to more than architectural hybrid, combining
one-third of the the local Mission style (see p48)
Chinese population with Byzantine ornament and
of San Francisco. Romanesque arcades. Its
As a result, some interior, which holds nearly
of the city’s best 2,000 worshipers, is especially
Chinese restaurants fine when bright sunlight
can be found here, shines through the earth-toned
and the emphasis Interior of Temple Emanu-El, showing the Holy Ark stained-glass windows.
5 Golden Gate Bridge

Named after the entrance to the Strait of San Francisco Bay
called “Golden Gate” by John Fremont in 1846, the bridge
opened in 1937, connecting San Francisco with Marin County.
Breathtaking views are offered from this world-famous
landmark, which has six lanes for vehicles, plus a pedestrian
and bicycle path. It is the world’s ninth-largest suspension
bridge but it was the world’s longest one when it was built.
Divers
To reach bedrock when building the
south tower, divers used dynamite
to smooth the surface of
the ocean floor.
The Tower Piers

The foundations of the towers are
a remarkable feat of engineering.
The south tower, 1,125 ft (345 m)
offshore, was sunk 100 ft (30 m)
below the surface in open water.
KEY
1 The length of the bridge is

1.7 miles (2.7 km), with a center
span of 4,200 ft (1,280 m).
Concrete Fender
2 The roadway is 220 ft (67 m) During construction of the south
above water, 318 ft (97 m) deep (or San Francisco) tower, a ring or fender
at the midpoint. of concrete was first poured to form the
base upon which the tower was built.
Presidio  65
ViSiToRS’ CHeCkliST
Practical Information
Map 2 E1.
Tel 921-5858.
∑ goldengate.org
- = open sunrise–sunset
daily. 7 observation area.
Transport
@ 2, 28, 76. Pedestrians/cyclists
east walkway open daily,
times vary.
h Toll Plaza electronic toll
booths only, $6 for cars.
The Roadway
The roadway was constructed starting at the towers
and extending toward mid-span, so weight on the
suspension cables was evenly distributed.
Construction of the Towers

The two steel towers rise to a
height of 746 ft (227 m)
above the water.
Joseph B. Strauss
Joseph B. Strauss is
officially credited as the
bridge’s designer, though
his assistant Charles Ellis
has been given major
Catching the Hot Rivets credit for the span’s design.
Working in gangs of four, one man heated the Irving F. Morrow acted as
rivets and threw them to another, who caught consulting architect.
them in a bucket. The other two fastened
sections of steel with the hot rivets.
January November Work begins June Towers June Work ends on cables
Construction of on the north tower are complete and starts on roadway
the Golden Gate
January San Francisco August First
Bridge officially May Opening
pier is finished cable across
begins Day
Golden Gate
1933 1934 1935 1936 1937

December Part of May Marin Tower March Last suspender
trestle is destroyed is topped off rope in place
October
by a ship
Spinning and
April Roadway is
compression
February Official Marin Tower topping-off finished and last
begins on
ground-breaking ceremony rivet is driven in
main cable
The Opening of the Bridge

The bridge that most people said could never be built was
completed on time and under budget in the midst of the
Great Depression. Joseph B. Strauss finally won widespread
support for the bridge, and a major bond issue financed its
$35-million, four-year construction. When it opened, every
siren and church bell in San Francisco and Marin sounded
simultaneously as part of a huge celebration.
First Vehicles Cross

At noon on May 28, 1937, the roadway
opened. An official convoy of Cadillacs
and Packards were the first vehicles to
cross the bridge.
Opening Day Crowd

On May 27, 1937, the bridge opened only for
pedestrians. An estimated 200,000 people came
to walk across the bridge.
The Bridge in Figures

• Every year approximately 40 million vehicles cross the bridge; every
day about 112,000 vehicles use it.
• The original coat of paint lasted for 27 years, needing only touch-
ups. From 1965 to 1995, a crew removed the old paint and applied
a more durable coating.
• The two great 7,650 ft (2,332 m) main cables are more than 3 ft
(1 m) thick, and contain 80,000 miles
(128,744 km) of steel wire, enough
to encircle the earth at the equator
three times.
• The volume of concrete poured
into the piers and anchorages during
the bridge’s construction would be
enough to lay a 5 ft (1.5 m) wide
sidewalk stretching from New York
to San Francisco, a distance of
more than 2,500 miles (4,000 km).
• The bridge was designed to
withstand 100 mph (160 km/h)
winds.
• Each pier has to withstand a tidal
flow of more than 60 mph (97 km/h), View from Vista Point
while supporting a 22,000-ton steel The best view of both the bridge
Original painting of the bridge tower above. and San Francisco is from the
Marin side.
Presidio  67
Final Rivet
On April 27, 1937,
Joseph B. Strauss
led dignitaries to
the center span
with a final gold
rivet. On May 28,
1937, President
Roosevelt began
a dedication
ceremony in the
White House
via telegraph.
Tollbooths
All tollbooths are
electronic to help
the flow of traffic
over the bridge.
Golden Gate
The spectacular lighting
display, originally
envisaged by the
architect, was not
installed until 1987.
The towers are designed
to disappear into
the darkness, which
further accentuates
their great height.
PACIFIC HEIGHTS
AND THE MARINA
Pacific Heights is an exclusive neighborhood Haas-Lilienthal House is open to the public.
that clings to a hillside rising 300 ft (100 m) To the north of Broadway, the streets drop
above the city. The area was developed in the steeply to the Marina District, ending at San
1880s, after cable cars linking it with the city Francisco Bay. The houses here are built on
center were introduced. With its magnificent a once-marshy site that was cleared and
views, it quickly became a desirable place to drained for the Panama–Pacific Exposition
live, and elegant Victorian houses still line (see p72), and the ambience is that of a seaside
its tree-shaded streets. Most of these are resort for the wealthy, with boutiques, lively
privately owned, but the Queen Anne-style cafés, and two prestigious yacht clubs.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Parks and Gardens Restaurants see pp226–7
1 Haas-Lilienthal House 3 Lafayette Park 1 Balboa Café
2 Spreckels Mansion 4 Alta Plaza 2 Betelnut
6 Convent of the Sacred Heart e Marina Green 3 Brazen Head
7 Trinity Episcopal Church Churches and Temples 4 Greens
8 Cow Hollow 5 La Mediterranee
9 Church of St. Mary the Virgin
q Octagon House 6 Mel’s Drive-In
0 Vedanta Temple
r Wave Organ 7 Umami
t Fort Mason Shopping Streets
5 Fillmore Street
w Chestnut Street
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Colorful sailboats on a dock at the Marina For keys to map symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Pacific Heights

The blocks between Alta Plaza and Lafayette Park
are at the heart of Pacific Heights. The streets here
are quiet and tidy, lined with smart apartment
blocks and palatial houses. Some date from the
late 19th century, while others were built after
the fire of 1906 (see pp30–31). To the north of the
area, the streets drop steeply toward the Marina
District, affording outstanding views of the bay.
Wander through the two large parks and past the
luxuriant gardens of the mansions in between,
then visit one of the numerous good bars, cafés,
and restaurants on lively Fillmore Street.
The view from Alta Plaza down hilly

Pierce Street to the north encompasses
the Marina District and offers a splendid
panorama of the bay beyond.
Washington Street lies to

the east of Alta Plaza. Here
Victorian houses, in various
architectural styles, fill an
bu
entire block.
cH
An
An
4 . Alta Plaza
Set aside as a public park in the 1850s, this hilltop green
W
space has a playground, tennis courts, and good views.

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Row houses (terraced
0 meters 100
houses) have been
0 yards 100 declared an historic
landmark. They were
Key built for a middle-class
clientele in 1878 and
Suggested route
have since been restored.
PA C I F I C H E I G H T S A N D T H E M A R I N A  71
PACIFIC HEIGHTS
AND THE MARINA
PRESIDIO
CIVIC CENTER
Locator Map
2 . Spreckels Mansion See Street Finder maps 3 & 4
This impressive limestone
building, constructed on the lines
To bus nos. 47, 76
of a French Baroque palace, has
been home to the family of best- No. 2004 Gough Street, one of
selling novelist Danielle Steel the more elaborate Victorian
since 1990. houses in Pacific Heights,
was built in 1889.
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Sa Victorian houses
that surround it.
No. 2151 Sacramento Street

is an ornate French-style mansion.
A plaque commemorates a visit 1 Haas-Lilienthal House
by the author Sir Arthur Conan Furnished in Victorian style, this mansion is the headquarters of
Doyle in 1923. the Architectural Heritage Foundation.
1 Haas-Lilienthal the only intact private

home of the period open as
House a museum, and is complete
2007 Franklin St. Map 4 E3. Tel 441- with authentic furniture.
3000. @ 1, 12, 19, 27, 47, 49, 76X, 90. A fine example of an upper-
8 noon–3pm Wed & Sat, 11am–4pm middle-class Victorian
Sun. & = ∑ sfheritage.org dwelling, the house has
elaborate gables, a circular
This exuberant Queen Anne- corner tower, and luxuriant
style mansion (see p77) was ornamentation.
built for the rich merchant A display of photographs Imposing façade of Spreckels Mansion at
William Haas in 1886. Alice describes the history of the Lafayette Park
Lilienthal, his daughter, lived building and reveals that
there until 1972, when it was this grandiose house was Lombard Street (see p88). The
given to the Foundation for modest in comparison with mansion’s architect was George
San Francisco’s some of those destroyed in the Applegarth, who in 1916 design-
Architectural fire of 1906 (see pp30–31). ed the Legion of Honor (see
Heritage. It is pp158–9). In 1924 the Spreckels
donated the Palace to the city.
2 Spreckels
Mansion
3 Lafayette Park
2080 Washington St. Map 4 E3. @ 1,
10, 47, 49. Closed to the public. Map 4 E3. @ 1, 10, 12, 47, 49.
One of San Francisco’s prettiest
Dominating the north side of hilltop gardens, this is a leafy
Lafayette Park, this imposing green haven of pine and
Beaux Arts mansion (see pp49) is eucalyptus trees, although its
sometimes known as the present tranquillity belies its
“Parthenon of the West.” It was turbulent history. Along with
built in 1912 for the flamboyant Alta Plaza and Alamo Square,
Alma de Bretteville Spreckels the land was set aside in 1855
and her husband Adolph, who as city-owned open
was heir to the sugar fortune space, but
of Claus Spreckels (see pp136–7). squatters and
Today the house is privately others,
owned and occupies a block including
The Haas-Lilienthal House, a Queen on Octavia Street, which is a former
Anne mansion from 1886 landscaped in the style of City
Panama–Pacific Exposition (1915)

San Francisco celebrated its recovery from Bay, on the site of today’s
the 1906 earthquake and fire with a Marina District. Its
monumental fair (see pp32–3). Officially it impressive pavilions
was planned to celebrate the opening of were donated by all the
the Panama Canal, and it was designed states and by 25 foreign
to be the most extravagant world’s fair countries and lined a
ever held. It was described by one concourse 1 mile (1.6 km)
highly enthusiastic visitor as “a long. Many of the
miniature Constantinople.” buildings were based on
Ferry Building during
The fair was held on land such architectural gems as
Panama–Pacific Exposition
reclaimed from San Francisco a Turkish mosque and a
Buddhist temple in Kyoto. The lavish Tower of
Jewels, at the center of the concourse, was
encrusted with glass beads and lit by
spotlights. To the west stood the
Palace of Fine Arts (see pp62), today
the sole surviving structure from the
fair, which visitors reached by gondola
across a lagoon.
Panorama across the site of the

Panama–Pacific Exposition
Attorney, laid claim to the land 7 Trinity Episcopal

and built houses on it. The
largest of the houses stood at
Church
the center of the hilltop park 1668 Bush St. Map 4 D4. Tel 775-1117.
until 1936, as the squatter who @ 1, 2, 3, 10, 10X, 19, 22, 38, 49, 70,
had built it refused to move. 80, 90. ∑ trinity-stpeters.org
It was finally torn down after
the city authorities agreed to This dramatic edifice is based on
swap it for land on Gough Durham Cathedral in northern
Street. Steep stairways now England, arguably one of the
lead to the park’s summit and finest examples of Norman
its delightful views. In the architecture. The oldest
surrounding streets are scores Episcopal church on the Pacific
of palatial buildings, with Coast, it celebrated its 150th
particularly ornate examples anniversary in 1999. Its colorful
along Broadway, Jackson stained-glass windows were
Street, and Pacific Avenue designed by a pupil of John
going east–west, and on LaFarge, a leading figure in the
Gough, Octavia, and Laguna New York art scene during
streets going north–south. the late 19th century. The high
Relaxing in Alta Plaza altar displays the 1894 jewel-
encrusted Trinity Cross,
4 Alta Plaza boasts an abundance of presented as a gift on Trinity
bookstores, restaurants, Sunday by the women of the
Map 4 D3. @ 1, 3, 10, 12, 22, 24.
and boutiques. parish. The church is also home
Situated in the center of to the San Francisco Bach Choir.
Pacific Heights, Alta Plaza is a
beautifully landscaped urban 6 Convent of the
park, where San Francisco’s Sacred Heart 8 Cow Hollow
elite come to relax. There are Map 4 D2. @ 22, 41, 43, 45.
angular stone steps (offering 2222 Broadway. Map 4 D3. Tel 563-
great city views) rising up from 2900. @ 3, 10, 22, 24, 41, 45. Closed Cow Hollow, a shopping
Clay Street on the south side to the public. 7 ∑ sacredsf.org district along Union Street, is
of the park. These steps may so called because it was used
be familiar to you from films – This Neo-Classical villa was as grazing land for the city’s
Barbra Streisand drove down formerly known as the Flood dairy cows up until the 1860s.
them in What’s Up, Doc? The Mansion. Designed by the It was then taken over for
park has tennis courts and a architects Bliss and Faville for development as a residential
playground, and from the James Leary Flood, son of the neighborhood. In the 1950s the
north side of the park you Comstock Mine magnate area became fashionable, and
can see splendid mansions, (see p104), it was completed chic boutiques, antique shops,
including the Gibbs House at in 1915. With harmonious and art galleries took over the
2622 Jackson Street, built by proportions, impeccable old neighborhood shops.
Willis Polk in 1894. detailing, and Tennessee marble Many of these are in restored
façade, it is the most refined of 19th-century buildings, lending
the Pacific Heights mansions. an old-fashioned air to the
5 Fillmore Street In 1939 the building became district, in stark contrast to
home to one of the oldest the sophistication of the
Map 4 D4. @ 1, 2, 3, 22, 24.
private schools in California. merchandise on display.
Fillmore Street survived
the devastating 1906
earthquake (see pp30–31)
virtually intact, and for several
years afterward served as
the civic heart of the city.
Government departments,
as well as private businesses,
were housed in the district’s
shops, homes, and even
churches. Today the main
commercial district of Pacific
Heights is located here, from
Jackson Street to Japantown
around Bush Street. This area The view from Fillmore Street, overlooking Cow Hollow
9 Church of St. the building’s

Mary the Virgin wooden frame. Part
of the church was
2325 Union St. Map 4 D3. Tel 921-
remodeled in the
3665. @ 22, 41, 45. Open 9am–5pm
1950s, when the
Mon–Fri. 5 8, 9, 11am and 5:30pm
Sun. ^ during services.
entrance was moved
∑ smvsf.org from Steiner Street to
the opposite end of
Evoking the more rural early the building, but
19th-century years of Cow the fabric has been Ornate decoration on the Vedanta Temple
Hollow (see p73), this rustic, well preserved.
wooden-shingled Episcopal Other architectural features
church stands at the west end include highly decorated
of what is now the busy Union 0 Vedanta Temple Moorish arches, medieval
Street shopping area. parapets and elements of
2963 Webster St. Map 4 D2. Tel 922-
One of the natural springs Queen Anne (see p77) and
2323. @ 22, 41, 45. Closed for
that provided water for the renovation. 5 at the new temple:
Colonial styles. It was built in
Cow Hollow dairy herds still 2323 Vallejo St. ^ ∑ sfvedanta.org 1905 by the architect Joseph
bubbles up in the grounds, A. Leonard, working closely
now largely hidden from the One of the bay area’s most with the Northern California
view of passersby on the street unusual structures, the Vedanta Society minister,
by the church’s original lych- Vedanta Temple is an eclectic Swami Trigunatitananda.
gate and hedge. combination of a host of Vedanta is the highest of the
The small, plain building is an divergent decorative traditions. six schools of Hinduism, and the
early example of the Arts and The roof is crowned by a rusty building symbolizes the Vedanta
Crafts style (see p48) later used red onion-shaped dome similar concept that every religion is
in more prominent Bay Area to those seen on Russian just a different way of reaching
churches. Below the steeply Orthodox churches. It also has a one god. The Temple is now a
sloping roof, the walls are faced tower resembling a crenellated monastery, but it is worth a visit
with “shingles,” strips of redwood European castle, and an just to marvel at this bizarre
nailed in overlapping rows onto octagonal Hindu temple cupola. building from the outside.
Herbst Pavilion
t Fort Mason Festival Pavilion The Mexican
Museo Italo Museum
Map 4 E1. Tel 345-7500. @ 22, 28, 30, Magic Theatre
Americano
43. 7 partial. ∑ fortmason.org
See Five Guided Walks pp174–5.
Greens Restaurant
Fort Mason reflects the
military history of San
Francisco. The original
buildings were
private houses, SFMOMA Artists
erected in the late Gallery
1850s, which were
confiscated by the US
Government when the
site was taken over by
the US army during the
BATS Improv at 0
Civil War (1861–5).
The Fort remained an army the Bayfront
command post until the 1890s, Theater -
and also housed refugees left City College of San
homeless by 1906 earthquake Francisco Art Campus
(see pp30–31). In World War II,
Fort Mason Army Base was San Francisco
the point of embarkation for Children’s Art Center
around 1.6 million soldiers.
Fort Mason was converted Entrance
to peaceful use in 1972. The Young Performers
original barracks, and the Theatre
old hospital, which serves
as a Visitor Center and Maritime Library
headquarters of the Golden Great Meadow
q Octagon House commercial strip stretches r Wave Organ

2645 Gough St. Map 4 E2. Tel 441- just a few blocks from Fillmore
Map 4 D1. @ 30.
7512. @ 10, 41, 45, 47, 49, 70, 80, 90, Street west to Divisadero Street,
101. Open noon–3pm on second after which the neighborhood Sitting at the tip of the
Sun and second and fourth Thu becomes predominantly breakwater that protects the
of the month, except Jan. Donation residential in character. Marina is the world’s most
suggested. ^ 7 limited. peculiar musical instrument.
∑ nscda-ca.org/octagon-house Built by scientists from the
e Marina Green Exploratorium (see pp94–5), the
Built in 1861, the Octagon Wave Organ consists of a
Map 4 D1. @ 22, 28, 30.
House is named for its eight- number of underwater pipes
sided cupola. It houses a small, A long thin strip of lawn that echo and hum with the
but engaging, collection of running the length of the changing tides. Listening tubes
decorative arts and historic Marina District, Marina Green is are imbedded in a mini-
documents of the Colonial popular with kite-flyers and for amphitheater that has views
and Federal periods. Included picnics, especially on July 4, of Pacific Heights and the
are furniture, paintings, when the city’s largest firework Presidio. The sounds you
Revolutionary playing cards show can be seen from here hear are more like gurgling
and signatures of 54 of the (see p51). Paths along the plumbing than organ music.
56 signers of the Declaration waterfront are the
of Independence. city’s prime spots
for bicyclists,
joggers, and roller-
w Chestnut Street skaters. Golden
Gate Promenade
Map 3 C2. @ 22, 28, 30, 43.
leads from the west
The main shopping and night- end of the green to
life center of the Marina District, Fort Point, or you
Chestnut Street has a varied mix can turn east to the
of movie theaters, markets, Wave Organ at the
cafés, and restaurants. The harbor jetty. Wave Organ at the end of the West Harbor jetty
Gate National Recreation collection of over 12,000 objects

International Area (GGNRA) are both open to representing thousands of
Youth Hostel the public. years of Mexican history.
Fort Mason has some of the The Maritime Library has a
city’s finest views, looking wonderful mix of history
Fort Mason across the bay toward Golden books, oral histories, and ships’
General’s Residence Gate Bridge and Alcatraz. plans but its opening hours are
limited. The Maritime Museum
Fort Mason Center itself (see p87) is located near
Part of the Fort is now occupied Fisherman’s Wharf. Among the
by one of San Francisco’s prime places to eat at Fort Mason
art complexes. Fort Mason Center is Greens (see p226), one
Center is home to over of the city’s best vegetarian
25 cultural organizations, restaurants. Thousands of
art galleries, museums, events occur at Fort Mason
and theaters, including Center every year.
the Cowell Theater, BATS
Improv at the Bayfront
Theater, the Magic Theatre,
and the Young Performers
Chapel Theatre. The SFMOMA
Artists Gallery offers
artworks from Northern
Golden Gate Californian artists for sale
National Recreation or rent, while Italian and
Area headquarters Italian-American artists
display their works at
the Museo Italo
Meta III (1985) by Italo Americano. The
Scanga at the Museo Mexican Museum The SS Balclutha, at Hyde Street Pier, part
Italo Americano has a unique of the Maritime Museum
76  San FrancISco area by area
Victorian Houses in San Francisco

Despite earthquakes, fires, and the inroads of modern life,
thousands of ornate, late 19th-century houses still line the
streets of San Francisco. In fact, in many neighborhoods
they are by far the most common type of housing. Victorian
houses are broadly similar, in that they all have wooden
frames, elaborately decorated with mass-produced
ornament. Most were constructed on narrow plots to a
similar floor plan, but they differ in the features of the
façade. Four main styles prevail in the city, although in
practice many houses, especially those built in the 1880s
and 1890s, combine aspects of two or more styles.
Detail of Queen Anne-style gateway
at Chateau Tivoli
Gothic Revival (1850–80)

The pitched roof
Gothic Revival houses are the A gabled roof with
over the main façade
easiest to identify, since they decorated vergeboards
often runs lengthwise,
always have pointed arches over is the clearest mark of
allowing the use of
Gothic Revival.
the windows and sometimes dormer windows. Gothic porch with cross
over the doors. Other features are bracing at 1978 Filbert Street
pitched gabled roofs, decorated
vergeboards (again, with
pointed arch motifs) and
porches that run the width Wide porches
of the building. The smaller, can be reached
simpler houses of this type are by a central
usually painted white, rather staircase.
than the vibrant colors often
associated with later styles.
Balustrades on
No. 1111 Oak Street is one the porch betray
of the city’s oldest Gothic the origins of
Revival buildings. Its front the style in the
garden is unusually large. Deep South.
Italianate (1850–85)
Tall cornices, often with decorative
Italianate houses were more brackets, conceal a pitched roof.
popular in San Francisco
than elsewhere in the US,
perhaps because their
compact form was suited to
the city’s high building density.
The most distinctive feature
of the Italianate style is the
tall cornice, usually with a
decorative bracket, which
adds a palatial air even to
Imposing entrance with
modest homes. Elaborate
Italianate porch
decoration around doors
and windows is another
feature typical of the style. Symmetrical windows
are capped by decorative
No. 1913 Sacramento arches.
Street displays a typical
formal Italianate façade, Neo-Classical doorways,
modeled on a Renaissance sometimes with ornate
palazzo. The wooden exterior pedimented porches, are
is made to look like stone. a typical Italianate touch.
Pa c i f i c H e i g H t s a n d t H e M a r i n a  77
Stick (1860–90)
This architectural style, with its
ungainly name, is perhaps the
most prevalent among Victorian
houses in the city. Sometimes Gabled roof with
also called “Stick-Eastlake” after Eastlake windows at
London furniture designer 2931 Pierce Street
Charles Eastlake, this style was
intended to be architecturally Wide bands of trim
“honest.” Vertical lines are often form a decorative
emphasized, both in the truss, emphasizing the
underlying structure of
wood-frame structure and in
Stick houses.
ornamentation. Bay windows,
false gabled cornices and
Decorative gables filled
square corners are key with “sunburst” motifs are
identifying features. used on porches and
window frames.
No. 1715–1717 Capp Street
is a fine example of the Stick-
Adjoining front doors
Eastlake style, with a plain
can be protected by a
façade enlivened by single projecting porch.
decorative flourishes.
Queen Anne (1875–1905) Palladian windows

were used in gables to
The name “Queen Anne” does give the appearance of
not refer to a historical period; an extra floor.
it was coined by the English
architect Richard Shaw. Queen
Anne houses freely combine
elements from many decorative
traditions, but are marked by
their turrets and towers and Queen Anne gable filled with
large, often decorative, panels ornamental panels at 818 Steiner Street
on wall surfaces. Most houses
also display intricate spindle-
work on balustrades, porches, Queen Anne turret topped by a
and roof trusses. finial at 1015 Steiner Street
Round, square,
and polygonal Where to Find
turrets and Victorian Houses
towers are typical
of Queen Anne- 1715–1717 Capp St. Map 10 F4
style houses. Chateau Tivoli, 1057 Steiner St.
Map 4 D4
1978 Filbert St. Map 4 D2
1111 Oak St. Map 9 C1
Gable pediments 2931 Pierce St. Map 4 D3
hold ornamental 1913 Sacramento St.
windows and
Map 4 E3
decorative panels.
818 Steiner St. Map 4 D5
2527–2531 Washington St.
Map 4 D3
The curved
window frame Alamo Square p131
is not itself Clarke’s Folly p141
characteristic of Haas-Lilienthal House p72
Queen Anne style, Liberty Street. Map 10 E3
The asymmetrical façade of 850 Steiner Street, but many houses Masonic Avenue. Map 3 C4
with its eclectic ornament, is typical of a Queen include features Octagon House p75
Anne house. Such features are often painted in borrowed from Spreckels Mansion p72
various bright colors. other styles.
FISHERMAN’S WHARF
AND NORTH BEACH
Fishermen from Genoa and Sicily first arrived Wharf lies North Beach, sometimes known
in the Fisherman’s Wharf area in the late as “Little Italy.” This lively part of the city has
19th century, and founded here the San an abundance of aromatic delis, bakeries,
Francisco fishing industry. The district has and cafés, from which you can watch the
slowly given way to tourism since the crowds. It is home to Italian and Chinese
1950s, but brightly painted boats still set families, with a sprinkling of writers and
out from the harbor on fishing trips early bohemians; Jack Kerouac (see p34), among
each morning. To the south of Fisherman’s others, found inspiration here.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Parks and Gardens Restaurants
1 Alcatraz Island pp82–5 r Washington Square see p224
2 PIER 39 y Bocce Ball Courts 1 Buena Vista Café
9 Lombard Street a Levi’s Plaza 2 Boudin
q Vallejo Street Stairway Shopping Centers 3 Caffe Greco
i Filbert Steps 4 Caffe Sport
6 The Cannery
o Greenwich Steps 5 Fog City
7 Ghirardelli Square
p Upper Montgomery Street 6 Franchino
Museums and Galleries 7 Gary Danko
Monuments
3 USS Pampanito 8 The House
u Coit Tower
4 Madame Tussaud’s 9 Scoma’s
Churches 5 Ripley’s Believe It Or Not! 10 The Stinking Rose
t Saints Peter and Paul Church Museum
Restaurants and Bars 8 San Francisco Maritime National
Historical Park Visitors’ Center
w Club Fugazi
0 San Francisco Art Institute
e North Beach Beat Museum
s Exploratorium
0 meters 500
0 yards 500

maps 4–6
PIER 45
PIER 41
HYDE STREET PIER 39
PIER
FISHERMAN’S PIER 35
WHARF S T R E E T PIER 33
RSON E E T
JEFFE S T R
TAYL O
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B E A ET
STRE T
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PIER 23
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Looking out to the city from the top of Lombard Street For keys to map symbols see back flap
street-by-street: fisherman’s wharf

Italian seafood restaurants have replaced
fishing as the primary focus of the
Fisherman’s Wharf local economy.
Restaurants and outdoor crab stands serve
San Francisco’s celebrated Dungeness crab
from November to June. Besides sampling
the seafood, visitors also take in the shops,
museums, and attractions for which
Fisherman’s Wharf is noted. Tickets for
Alcatraz can be purchased from Pier 33.
3 . Uss Pampanito
fisherman’s and An audio tour gives an idea of
seaman’s Chapel the hardships endured by sailors
was built on the pier in this World War II submarine.
so that the devout
could pray before fisherman’s wharf
they sailed and after is now a street
they returned. lined with seafood
Pier 45 restaurants and
crab stands.
fish alley is where the morning’s

catch is landed and prepared.
6 the Cannery
Once a fruit cannery, the
building was converted tay l
to a mall, housing shops,
or s
restaurants, and a museum.

tr
ee
t
n
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s
r
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f
f
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j
jo
ne
s s
le
tr
av
ee
en
san francisco
t
wo
fire engine
tours and
rt
adventures
h
provides visitors
st
with tours of the city

re
on a big, shiny red historic trolley

et
Mack fire engine. line features

The Anchorage
restored, colorful
Shopping Center streetcars that ran
in most United
To Powell – Hyde cable States cities from
Key
car turntable (1 block) the 1930s.
Suggested route
FISHERMAN’S WHARF AND NORTH BEACH  81
sea lions sunning San Francisco Bay

on pIer 39’s
boat docks are the
delight of tourists, but
FISHERMAN’S WHARF
a nuisance for boaters. AND NORTH BEACH
The colony usually
arrives around January.
CHINATOWN
FINANCIAL
AND NOB HILL DISTRICT
AND UNION
SQUARE
locator map
See Street Finder, map 6
Blue and Gold Fleet and

bay cruise tickets (p287)
boudin sourdough bakery

produces the tangy bread for Bus stop (No. 32)
which San Francisco is famous.
You can buy it fresh here then
tour the museum (p244).
Red and White

Fleet tickets
e m b a r c a d e r
o
To Pier 33 for
tickets to Alcatraz
po
we
ll
t
st
e
ma
re
e
r
so
et
t
s
n
st
re
et
4 madame tussaud’s
Almost 300 life-size wax
figures of past and present-
day personalities greet visitors
to this museum.
5 ripley’s believe It or not!

museum
This is a selection of the famed
cartoonist’s strange collection
of curiosities and odd facts. 2 . pIer 39
A collection of restaurants, shops,
and amusements, set against a
0 meters 100 backdrop of spectacular bay
0 yards 100
views, is one of the city’s more
popular tourist attractions.
for keys to map symbols see back flap
1 Alcatraz Island
Alcatraz means “pelican” in Spanish, a reference
to the first inhabitants of this rocky, steep-sided
island. Lying 3 miles (5 km) east of the Golden
Gate, its location is both strategic and exposed
to harsh ocean winds. In 1859, the US military
established a fort here that guarded San Francisco
Bay until 1907, when it became a military prison. . Cell Block
From 1934 to 1963, it served as a maximum- The cell house contains four free-standing
security Federal Penitentiary. Unoccupied until cell blocks. No cell has an outside wall or
1969, the island was seized by Indians of All Tribes ceiling. The dungeon-like foundation of
the “Big House,” as inmates called the
(see p34) laying claim to the island as their main prison block, shares the original
land. The group was expelled in 1971, foundation of the old military fortress.
and Alcatraz is now part of the Golden
Gate National Recreation Area. Lighthouse
The original Alcatraz lighthouse,
the first on the Pacific coast of the
United States, was activated in
1854 and replaced in 1909
by the present structure.
Warden’s House
This house suffered extensive fire
damage during the American m
Indian occupation of 1969–71.
KEY
g
1 Agave Trail (open seasonally). from the days of Fort Alcatraz. It
served as the recreation center
2 The officers’ apartments
stood here. during the federal prison days.
8 Electric maintenance shop
3 Military parade ground
(open seasonally). 9 The Military Dorm was built in
1933 for the military prison guards.
4 Metal detectors checked
prisoners on their way to and from 0 Sally Port dates from 1857.
the dining hall and exercise yards. Equipped with drawbridge and dry
The “machine” on display in the moat, this guardhouse defended
Cell House is a prop from the the approach to Fort Alcatraz.
film Escape from Alcatraz. q The Exhibit Area is in the old
5 The Military Morgue is tiny barracks building behind the ferry
and cramped and not open to jetty. It houses a bookstore, exhibits,
the public. multimedia show providing a
historical overview of Alcatraz, and
6 Water tower
an information counter.
7 The Officer’s Club, also known
as the Enlisted Men’s Club, dates w Barracks buildings
VIsItors’ ChECKlIst
Map 6 F1. tel 981-7625 for tickets
and schedules. Night Tours:
Thu–Mon. tel 561-4900.
∑ nps.gov/alcatraz
∑ alcatrazcruises.com
open daily. Closed Jan 1,
Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
7 in places. Visitor Center:
8 = 9 free film presentation.
Buy tickets for the tour in
advance, especially in summer.
Transport
g from Pier 33.
Alcatraz Island from the Ferry
“The Rock” has no natural soil. Earth was shipped
from Angel Island to make garden plots.
. Exercise Yard
Meals and walks around the exercise yard were
the highlights of a prisoner’s day. The walled
yard featured in films made at the prison.
Key
Suggested route
Alcatraz Pier 0 meters 75

Visitors alight at this pier facing the Barracks. Most
prisoners took their first steps ashore nearby. 0 yards 75

Inside Alcatraz
The maximum-security prison on Alcatraz,
dubbed “The Rock” by the US Army, housed
an average of 264 of the country’s most
incorrigible criminals, who were transferred
here for disobedience while serving time
in prisons elsewhere in the US. The strict
discipline at Alcatraz was enforced by the
threat of a stint in the isolation cells and by D Block
loss of privileges, including the chance at In the solitary confinement cells of D
special jobs, time for recreation, use of the Block, prisoners had to endure hours
of unrelieved boredom.
prison library, and visitation rights.
Broadway
The corridor that
separates C and B
blocks was nicknamed
by prisoners after New
York City’s busiest
thoroughfare.
Control Room
Reinforced to
withstand a siege, this
controlled the 24-hour
electric security system.
Main cell house
entrance
KEY
1 Warden’s office
2 Visiting area
3 Library from which prisoners
could order “approved” books
4 Recreation yard
Inside a Cell
5 Kitchen Prisoners spent between
6 Hospital above dining room 16 and 23 hours every
day alone in stark cells,
7 Food preparation and equipped with only a
store rooms toilet and bunk. Many
8 Barber shop cells measured 5 ft by
9 ft (1.5 m by 2.7 m).
Gun
Gallery Famous Inmates
Guards armed with pistols Al Capone
and rifles patrolled along The notorious
the caged walkways at the Prohibition-era gangster
ends of the cell blocks. “Scarface” Capone was
actually convicted, in
1934, for income tax
evasion! He spent much
of his 10-year sentence
on Alcatraz in a hospital isolation cell,
and finally left the prison mentally
unbalanced after contracting syphilis.
Robert Stroud
Stroud spent all of his 17 years on The
Rock in solitary confinement. Despite
assertions to the contrary in the film
The Birdman of Alcatraz (1962), Stroud
was in fact prohibited from keeping
birds in his prison cell.
Carnes, Thompson, and Shockley

In May 1946, prisoners led by Clarence
Carnes, Marion Thompson, and Sam
Shockley overpowered guards and
captured their guns. The prisoners failed
to break out of the cell house, but three
inmates and two officers were killed in
the “Battle of Alcatraz.” Carnes received
an additional life sentence, and
Shockley and Thompson were executed
at San Quentin prison, for their part as
ringleaders of the insurrection.
Anglin Brothers
John and Clarence Anglin, along with
Frank Morris, chipped through the back
walls of their cells, hiding the holes with
cardboard grates. They left dummy
heads in their beds and
made a raft to enable
their escape. They
were never caught.
Their story was
dramatized in the
film Escape from
Alcatraz (1979).
Dining Room George Kelly

Inmates were well fed, the better to quell “Machine Gun” Kelly was one of The
rebellion. Note the sample menu on Rock’s most infamous inmates. He served
display at the kitchen entrance. 17 years for kidnapping and extortion.
1859 Fort Alcatraz 1909 Army prisoners 1972 Alcatraz becomes a

1775 Spanish explorer Juan completed; begin construction national park
Manuel de Ayala names equipped with on the cell house
Alcatraz after the “strange 100 cannon and 1962 Frank Morris
birds” that inhabit it 300 troops and the Anglin
brothers escape
1750 1800 1850 1900 1950
1848 John Fremont 1857 Sally Port built

1963 Prison closed
buys Alcatraz 1969–71 Island
1854 First Pacific 1934 Federal occupied by
1850 Alcatraz declared a Coast lighthouse Bureau of Prisons Indians of All
military reservation by activated on turns Alcatraz into a Tribes
John Fremont
President Fillmore Alcatraz Sally Port civilian prison
2 PIER 39
Map 5 B1. @ 4, 18, 24, 27, 38, 47. v F.
 Powell–Hyde. g SF Bay Ferry.
See Shopping in San Francisco p233.
Refurbished in 1978 to
resemble a quaint wooden
fishing village, this 1905 cargo
pier now houses many tourist
shops and specialty stores
spread through two levels.
The pier’s street performers
and amusements are popular
with families. You can try the
two-story carousel, play games
at the Riptide arcade, or brave
the Turbo Ride. The Aquarium
of the Bay houses 20,000 sea
creatures including sharks, bat
rays, and skates.
A multimedia show, the San
Francisco Experience, whisks
visitors through an historical
tour of the city, complete with
Chinese New Year celebrations,
fog, and an earthquake.
3 USS Pampanito
Pier 45. Map 4 F1. Tel 775-1943.
@ 4, 18, 24, 27, 38, 47. v F.
 Powell–Hyde. g SF Bay Ferry.
Open 9am– 6pm daily (to 8pm in The two-story Venetian Carousel on PIER 39
summer; call ahead for details).
& 9 ∑ maritime.org the claustrophobic kitchen, sport, the Tussaud’s complex
and officers’ quarters. When features the San Francisco
This World War II submarine the Pampanito was in service, Dungeon, a thrilling journey
fought in, and survived, several it had a full crew of 10 officers through time exploring some
bloody battles in the Pacific, and 70 seamen. of the darker aspects of the
sinking six enemy ships and history of the city, complete
severely damaging others. with live performers and
Tragically for the allies, two of 4 Madame special effects.
its fatal targets were carrying Tussaud’s
British and Australian POWs.
The Pampanito managed to 145 Jefferson St. Map 5 B1. @ 4, 18, 5 Ripley’s Believe It
rescue 73 men and carry them
24, 27, 38, 47. v F.  Powell–Hyde.
Open 9am–9pm daily. & 7
Or Not! Museum
to safety in the US. A tour of the ∑ madametussauds.com/ 175 Jefferson St. Map 4 F1. Tel 202–
ship takes visitors from stern to sanfrancisco 9850. @ 4, 18, 24, 27, 38, 47. v F.
bow to see the torpedo room,  Powell–Hyde. Open 10am–10pm
Madame Tussaud’s Sun–Thu, 10am–11pm Fri & Sat (mid-
San Francisco Jun–Labor Day: 9am–11pm Sun–Thu,
location is the 9am–midnight Fri & Sat). & 7
brand’s 17th wax ∑ ripleysf.com
museum in the
world and the California native Robert L.
second one in Ripley was an illustrator with
California. In a penchant for collecting
addition to the peculiar facts and artifacts. He
expected host earned his fame and fortune
of historical by syndicating his newspaper
luminaries and cartoon strip, called “Ripley’s
figures from the Believe It Or Not!” Among the
worlds of enter- 350 oddities on display are a
USS Pampanito’s torpedo room tainment and cable car built of 275,000
matchsticks, a two-headed calf, moved to the City Hall (see p129),

and an image of a man who where all the exhibits are now
had two pupils in each eyeball. on display. Among these is the
Get lost in the Marvelous Mirror massive head of the statue that
Maze and sample some candy capped City Hall before the
from the factory. Some of 1906 earthquake (see pp30–31).
Ripley’s famous cartoon strips The illuminated crown on the
are on display, too. head is an example of early
electric illumination. You can
also visit www.sfmuseum.org.
6 The Cannery
2801 Leavenworth St. Map 4 F1. 7 Ghirardelli
@ 4, 18, 19, 24, 27, 30, 38, 47. v F.
 Powell–Hyde. See Shopping in San Square
Francisco p233. 900 North Point St. Map 4 F1. @ 4,
18, 19, 24, 27, 30, 38, 47, 49. v F.
This 1909 fruit-canning plant  Powell–Hyde. See Shopping in San
was refurbished in the 1960s Francisco p233. Ghirardelli Square
to incorporate footbridges,
sunny courtyards, and rambling Once a chocolate factory and Chocolate Manufactory on the
passages, with restaurants and woollen mill, this is the most plaza beneath the tower still
specialty shops selling clothes, attractive of San Francisco’s houses vintage chocolate-
collector dolls, and American refurbished factories, a mix of making machinery and sells
Indian arts and crafts. old red-brick buildings and the confection, although the
The Cannery also used to modern shops and restaurants. chocolate bars are now made
house the Museum of the City The shopping center retains the in San Leandro, across the bay.
of San Francisco, but a fire famous Ghirardelli trademark Fountain Plaza is a colorful
forced the premises to close. clock tower and the original outdoor attraction for shoppers
However, the collection has electric roof sign. Ghirardelli day and evening.
8 San Francisco collections of old ships. Among

Maritime National the most spectacular is the CA
Historical Park Thayer, a three-masted schooner
built in 1895 and retired in 1950.
Visitors’ Center The Thayer carried lumber along
900 Beach St. Map 4 F1. @ 4, 10, 18, the North California coast, and
19, 24, 27, 30, 38, 47. v F.  Powell– later was used in Alaskan
Hyde. Museum: Tel 561-7100. fishing. Also at the pier is the
Open main floor open 10am–5pm. Hyde Street Pier 2,560-ton side-wheel ferry-boat,
Hyde Street Pier: Tel 561–7169. Eureka, built in 1890 to ferry
Open 9:30am–5pm daily (Jun–Aug: the Maritime Museum from trains between the Hyde Street
to 5:30pm). Closed Jan 1, Thanksg., 1951. Visitors can still admire the Pier and the counties north of
Dec 25. & Pier only. 7 Pier and
renovated Streamline Modern San Francisco Bay. It carried
museum only. = See Five Guided Walks
building with its clean lines of 2,300 passengers and 120 cars,
pp174–5. Visitor’s Center: 499 Jefferson
an ocean liner. Moored at and was the largest passenger
Street. Tel 415-447-5000. Open
9:30am–5pm daily. ∑ maritime.org nearby Hyde Street Pier is ferry of its day.
one of the world’s largest
Built in 1939, this Balclutha
building has housed Mainmast
This ship is the star of Hyde
Street Pier. Launched in
1886, she sailed twice a
year between Britain
and California,
trading wheat
for coal.
Mizzenmast
Foremast
Quarterdeck
Bowsprit
9 Lombard Street
Map 5 A2. @ 45.  Powell–Hyde.
Banked at a natural incline of

27°, this hill proved too steep for
vehicles to climb. In the 1920s
the section of Lombard Street
close to the summit of Russian
Hill was revamped, and the
severity of its gradient lessened
by the addition of eight curves.
Today it is known as “the
crookedest street in the world.”
Cars can travel downhill only,
while people take the steps or
use the cable car.
0 San Francisco
Art Institute
800 Chestnut St. Map 4 F2. Tel 771-
7020. @ 30, 45, 91.  Powell–Hyde,
Powell–Mason. Diego Rivera Gallery:
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat. Closed
public hols. Walter and McBean
Galleries: Open 11am–6pm Wed–Sat
(to 7pm Tue). 7 partial. = -
∑ sfai.edu
San Francisco’s Art Institute dates

from 1871 and once occupied
Cars negotiating the steep and crooked section of Lombard Street the large wooden mansion built
A 30-Minute Walk through North Beach

Settlers from Chile, and later those from Italy, created the
North Beach nightlife that earned this quarter its exuberant
reputation. Its café-oriented atmosphere has long appealed to
bohemians, particularly the 1950s Beat Generation (see p34).
Neighborhood of the Beats From Vesuvio continue south to

Start from the southwest corner Pacific Avenue and cross to the
of Broadway and Columbus opposite side of Columbus
Avenue at City Lights Bookstore Avenue. Walk back toward
1. Owned by Beat poet Broadway, stopping first at
Lawrence Ferlinghetti, City Lights Tosca 3. The walls of this old-
was the first bookshop in the US world bar and café display
to sell only paperbacks. It evocative murals of rural
was author Jack Kerouac, Tuscany, and a jukebox plays
a friend of Ferlinghetti, selections from Italian opera. Columbus Café 0
who coined the word A few steps north bring you
“Beat,” later made to Adler Alley. Specs 4, The Strip
popular as “Beatnik.” an exuberant, cozy This stretch of Broadway is
One of the most bar filled with known as The Strip 5, and
popular Beat haunts memorabilia of the is noted for its “adult
was Vesuvio 2, south Beat era, is at No. 12. entertainment.” At the junction
of City Lights, across Retrace the route to of Broadway and Grant Avenue
Jack Kerouac Alley. Jack Kerouac Columbus Avenue, is the former Condor Club 6,
Welsh poet Dylan Thomas then turn right into where the world’s first topless
was a patron of this watering Broadway and walk as far as stage show was performed in
hole, which is still a favorite Kearny Street, taking in the June 1964 by Carol Doda, a
of poets and artists. hustle and bustle of Broadway. waitress at the club.
for Mark Hopkins’ family on city’s best views of earthquake. Club Fugazi is the
Nob Hill (see p104), which Telegraph Hill, North home of the musical cabaret
burned down in the Beach, and the Beach Blanket Babylon (see p251).
1906 fire (see pp30– encompassing This lively show, famous for
31). Today it is bay. The street its topical and outrageous
housed in a 1926 gives way to steps songs, has been running
Spanish Colonial- at Mason Street, which now for over two decades
style building, climb up through the quiet and has become a favorite
with cloisters, bell tower, and pretty Ina Coolbirth San Francisco institution.
and courtyard fountain. Park. Higher still, above
The Diego Rivera Taylor Street, there is a
Gallery, named after warren of lanes, with e North Beach
the Mexican muralist,
is left of the main
Entertainer from
several Victorian style
wooden houses (see
Beat Museum
Club Fugazi 540 Broadway. Map 5 B3. Tel (1-800)
entrance. The Walter and pp76–7). At the crest
McBean Galleries are the of the hill is one of KER-OUAC (537-6822 or 399-9626).
@ 8AX, 8BX, 8X, 10, 12, 30, 39, 41,
primary exhibition venues and the rare pockets of the city
feature changing shows from that was not destroyed in the 45, 91. Open 10am–7pm daily
(to 8pm Sat). Closed public hols.
contemporary photography earthquake and fire of 1906
= ∑ thebeatmuseum.org
and film screenings to design (see pp30–31).
and technology. This offbeat museum displays
memorabilia related to the
w Club Fugazi artists of the Beat Generation,
q Vallejo Street 678 Green St. Map 5 B3. Tel 421-4222.
who lived in San Francisco in
Stairway @ 8AX, 8BX, 8X, 10, 12, 30, 39, 41, 45,
the 1950s. Photographs, books,
album covers, and letters line
91.  Powell–Mason. Open Wed–
Mason St and Jones St. Map 5 B3. the walls and floors of the
@ 30, 45.  Powell–Mason. Sun. See Entertainment p251.
building. The museum hosts
Club Fugazi was originally built events related to Beat culture,
The steep climb from Little Italy in 1912 as a community hall for while the shop sells a
to the southernmost summit of Italians living in San Francisco fascinating range of books,
Russian Hill reveals some of the in the wake of the 1906 videos, T-shirts, and posters.
Upper Grant Avenue and a genuine writers’ and look for Columbus Café 0
Turn right into Grant Avenue artists’ rendezvous since 1956. and its exterior murals. Go left
where you will find The Saloon Very much a part of Italian- at Columbus Avenue, and
7 with its original 1861 bar. American culture, it offers live follow this main North Beach
On the corner of Vallejo Street opera on Saturday afternoons. street south past many more
is Caffè Trieste 8, the oldest Follow Grant Avenue north Italian coffeehouses, to return
coffeehouse in San Francisco past Maggie to your starting point.
McGarry’s Pub 9,
now an Irish Pub but
STREE
T formerly the Coffee
GREEN Gallery, haunt of the
0
KEARN
Beats. Turn left at

GRAN
9 Green Street and

Y
STOC
T AV E
C
O T
LU TREE
KTON
JO S
M VA L L E
STRE
B 8
U 7 STREE
T
S FRESN
O
Vesuvio, a popular Beat bar 2
R O M OL
ET
A
V
STREE
EN
O
U 6 5 BROA
D W AY Tips for Walkers
PL
E
T
AY Starting point: Corner of

BRO
ADW
1 4
Broadway and Columbus Ave.
2 3
GRAN
CO Length: 1 mile (1.5 km).

STAR K
ST RE ET LU Getting there: Muni bus No. 41
T
M
BU runs along Columbus Ave.
E
A VENU S Stopping-off points: All the
FIC AV
AV E N
PACI bars and cafés mentioned are

E
worth visiting for a drink and
UE
Key
0 meters 200 the atmosphere. Children are
Walk route
0 yards 200
not usually allowed in bars.

Street-by-Street: Telegraph Hill

Telegraph Hill was named after the semaphore
installed on its crest in 1850 to alert merchants of the
arrival of ships. Today’s hill falls away abruptly on its
eastern side, where it was dynamited to provide rocks
for landfill and paving. There are steep paths on this
side of the hill, bordered by gardens. The western side
slopes more gradually into “Little Italy,” the area around
Washington Square. In the past the hill has been home
to immigrants and to artists who appreciated the
panoramic views. These days the quaint pastel
clapboard homes are much sought after and this is
one of the city’s prime residential areas.
Telegraph Hill is dominated by Coit
Tower. At night the tower is bathed
in yellow light and is visible from
many parts of the city.
The Christopher
Columbus Statue
was erected in 1957.
The Statue of Benjamin

Franklin stands above a
time capsule planted in 1979,
containing Levi’s, a poem,
and a recording of the
Hoodoo Rhythm
Devils.
T
E
E
R
T
S
T
R
E
r Washington Square Bus stop (No. 39) B
L
This small park at the F
I
heart of Little Italy is
dominated by T
G
S
Saints Peter and
R
N
Paul Catholic O
A
I
N
N
Church, known as U
T
the “Italian
Cathedral.”
A
S
V
T
E
O
N
C
U
K
E
T
O
N
S
T
R
E
E
T
t . Saints Peter and Paul Church

The Neo-Gothic church, consecrated in
1924, has an ornate interior with this
fine image of Christ in the apse.
u . Coit Tower San Francisco Bay
The frescoes inside were

painted by local artists in
1933, as part of the FISHERMAN’S WHARF AND
NORTH BEACH
Federal Art Project set up
by President Roosevelt.
CHINATOWN AND
Bus stop (No. 39) NOB HILL
Locator Map
o Greenwich Steps See Street Finder map 5
These formally land-
scaped steps contrast
with the charmingly
rustic Filbert Steps.
M
O
N
T
G
O
M
E
R
Y
K
S
E
Napier Lane is a small lane

T
A
lined with 19th-century

R
R
cottages. It is the last of San

E
N
Francisco’s wooden plank streets

E
E
and a tranquil retreat from the city.

T
Y
T
S
E
E
T
R
T
R
E E
R
E
T Key
S
E
N
T
E Suggested route
E
R
G
0 meters 100
0 yards 100
i . Filbert Steps
The descent through flower
gardens down these steps
gives fine views over the
harbor to the East Bay.
No. 1360 Montgomery

Street is decorated with
an Art Deco figure of a
modern Atlas.
situated at the heart Among these was bocce, an

of North Beach, and Italian version of lawn bowling,
many Italians find it a played on a narrower and
welcome haven when shorter court than the English
they first arrive in San version. In North Beach it is
Francisco. It was here played most afternoons on the
that the local baseball public court in a corner of the
hero, Joe Di Maggio, North Beach Playground. There
was photographed are four participants (or four
after his marriage to teams), who roll a wooden ball
the actress Marilyn at a smaller, target ball, at the
Monroe in 1957, opposite end of an earth court.
although the actual The aim is for the balls
wedding ceremony to lightly “kiss” (bocce), and the
was held elsewhere. highest score goes to the
The building, designed player whose ball gets closest
by Charles Fantoni, has to this target.
an Italianesque façade,
with a complex interior
notable for its many u Coit Tower
columns and ornate
1 Telegraph Hill Blvd. Map 5 C2.
The façade of Saints Peter and Paul Church altar. There are also
Tel 249-0995. @ 8, 18, 24, 27, 38,
statues and mosaics 39, 44, 54, 56, 58, 72, 74, 76.
illuminated by stained-glass
r Washington
Open 10am–6pm daily.
windows. The concrete and & to tower. 7 =
Square steel structure of the church,
with its twin spires, was Coit Tower was built in 1933 at
Map 5 B2. @ 8BX, 8X, 30, 39, 41, 45,
91.  Powell–Mason.
completed in 1924. the top of 284 ft- (87 m-) high
Cecil B. DeMille filmed the Telegraph Hill, with funds left
The square consists of a lawn workers laying the foundations to the city by Lillie Hitchcock
surrounded by benches and of Saints Peter and Paul, and Coit, an eccentric San
trees, set against the twin towers used the scene to show the Franciscan pioneer and
of Saints Peter and Paul Church. building of the Temple of philanthropist. The 210 ft
It has an almost Mediterranean Jerusalem in his 1923 film (63 m) reinforced concrete
atmosphere, appropriate for the The Ten Commandments. tower was designed as a fluted
“town square” of Little Italy, The church is also known as column by the architect Arthur
although the Italian community the Fishermen’s Church (many Brown. When floodlit at night
is less evident in this neighbor- Italians once earned their living it is an eerie white and can be
hood now than it was when the by fishing), and there is a Mass seen from most parts of the
park was first laid out in 1955. to celebrate the Blessing of the eastern half of the city. The
Near the center of the square Fleet in October. Masses are encircling view around the
stands a statue of Benjamin held in Italian and Chinese, North Bay Area from the
Franklin. A time capsule was as well as English.
buried under this in 1979 and is
scheduled to be reopened in
2079. It is said to contain some y Bocce Ball
Levi jeans, a bottle of wine, and
a poem by the famous Beat poet
Courts
Lawrence Ferlinghetti (see p88). Lombard St and Mason St,
North Beach Playground.
Map 5 B2. Tel 831-5500.
@ 8BX, 8X, 30, 39, 41, 45, 91.
t Saints Peter and  Powell–Mason. Open
Paul Church dawn till dusk Mon–Sat. 7
666 Filbert St. Map 5 B2. Tel 421-0809. Italians have been
@ 8BX, 8X, 30, 39, 41, 45, 91. influential in North Beach
 Powell–Mason. Open 7:30am– since the main wave of
4pm daily (to 1pm public hols). 5 immigration from Italy
7:30am, 8:45am, 1pm, 5pm Sun; Italian in the late 19th and
mass and choir 11:45am Sun. 7 early 20th centuries.
∑ sspeterpaulsf.org Along with their food,
customs, and religion,
Known by many as the Italian they also brought games
Cathedral, this large church is to their new home. Playing bocce at North Beach playground
i Filbert Steps rents, and the great views. It

is now, however, a distinctly
Map 5 C2. @ 10, 19, 39, 41, 45, 47, 49,
54, 70, 990.
fashionable place to live,
and visitors are drawn to it
Telegraph Hill falls away sharply as a lovely area to take a
on its eastern side, and the leisurely stroll.
streets here become steep
steps. Descending from
Telegraph Hill Boulevard,
Filbert Street is a rambling
stairway, made of wood,
brick, and concrete, where
fuchsia, rhododendron,
bougainvillea, fennel, and
blackberries thrive.
o Greenwich
Steps
Map 5 C2. @ 8X, 30, 39, 45, 91.
 Powell–Mason.
The concrete Coit Tower at the top of Descending roughly

Telegraph Hill parallel to Filbert Steps, the Steps at the bottom of Filbert Street leading
steps of Greenwich Street have up to Telegraph Hill
observation platform (reached splendid views, with luxuriant
by elevator) is spectacular. foliage from adjoining gardens
In the lobby of the tower are overflowing onto them. Going
a Levi’s Plaza
murals that are even more up one set of steps and down Map 5 C2. @ 10, 12, 39. v F.
absorbing (see p142). These the other makes a delightful
were sponsored in 1934 by a walk around the eastern side This square is where the
government-funded program of Telegraph Hill. headquarters of Levi Strauss,
designed to keep artists the manufacturers of blue jeans
employed during the Great (see p137), can be found. It was
Depression (see pp32–3). p Upper landscaped by Lawrence
Twenty-five artists joined Montgomery Street Halprin in 1982, with the aim
efforts to paint a vivid portrait of recalling the company’s
Map 5 C2. @ 39.
of life in modern California. history in California. The plaza
Scenes range from the teeming Until it was paved in 1931, is studded with granite rocks
streets of the city’s Financial the Telegraph Hill end of and cut by flowing water, thus
District (with a robbery in Montgomery Street was evoking the Sierra Nevada
progress) to factories, dockyards, mostly inhabited by working- canyon scenery in which the
and Central Valley wheat fields. class families. There was also miners who first wore the jeans
There are many fascinating a sprinkling of artists and worked. Telegraph Hill in the
details, including a real light writers. They were attracted background adds another
switch cleverly incorporated by the seclusion, the cheap mountainous element.
into a painting and a poor family
of migrants encamped by a
river, plus newspaper headlines,
magazine covers, and book
titles. The murals are effective
social commentary and yet
also whimsical in spirit. There
are various political themes
depicting labor problems and
social injustice that run through
them. Many of the faces in the
paintings are those of the artists
and their friends, along with
local figures such as Colonel
William Brady, caretaker of Coit
Tower. The work’s political
content initially caused some
public controversy. The headquarters of Levi Strauss & Co. on Levi’s Plaza
94  san francisco area by area
s Exploratorium
since 1969 this renowned science museum and global
learning center has been influencing people of all ages with
its creative and interactive exhibits. The museum uses original
hands-on displays and encourages playful learning to inspire
the curiosity of visitors and educate them about a wide range
of scientific subjects. Learn how reflections work, how certain
genes are passed on from parent to child, and examine local
micro-organisms and their bay habitats. With an area three
times bigger than its original location at the Palace of fine
arts, the exploratorium now has space for outdoor exhibits.
The all-glass bay observatory Gallery offers excellent
views and exhibits of san francisco bay and the cityscape.
Drip Chamber
Visitors can see . All Eyes on Me
unique shapes and This exhibit showcases
patterns created by a mosaic of tiny
light rays passing mirrors that reflect the
through droplets viewer's own eyes.
of glycerine in a
rotating chamber.
Bio Lab is a working

laboratory. It is closed
to the public, but visitors
can see the work
going on inside.
Water Drop
This quirky display, located
in one of the connector
galleries, provides hands-on
experience in using the flash
in high-speed photography.
Zebra Fish
Developing zebra fish embryos are
on display at the microscope imaging
station located in the East Gallery.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Pier 15.
Map 6 D2.
Tel 528-4444.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun,
(6–10pm Thu, adults only). &
∑ exploratorium.edu/visit
Transport
@ 1, 2, 6, 10, 12, 14, 21, 31,
38, 41.  Embarcadero.
Chaotic Pendulum
v F, J, K, L, M, T, N.
Twisting the knob at this exhibit reveals the
g Ferry Building (terminal)
pendulum's motion to be unpredictable and
10-min walking distance.
extremely complicated.
Entrance
Main Entrance Your Father’s Nose

Two people can view each
other from opposite sides
of a paneled mirror and see
a composite image of their
own face in this fun exhibit
exploring perceptions
and genetics.
Bay Windows
Spinning disks filled with samples
of bay water, mud, and sand,
show visitors more about the
movement and settling
characteristics of bay sediments.
Key to Floor Plan

East Gallery Gallery Guide
Bay Observatory Gallery/Terrace The main exhibit floor of the Exploratorium is anchored by four main
galleries. The Central Gallery is themed around seeing and listening,
Central Gallery
the West Gallery focuses on human phenomena, and the East Gallery
West Gallery on living systems. The South Gallery, or the Tinkering Studio™, allows
South Gallery visitors to build their own exhibits. The Outdoor Gallery explores local
Outdoor Gallery weather and the Bay Observatory offers superb views of the bay and
Public Plaza beyond. There are two dining areas: the plaza-side Seismic Joint Café on
the west and the waterfront Seaglass Restaurant in the Bay Observatory.
Intro Area
CHINATOWN AND NOB HILL

The Chinese settled in the plaza on Stockton Nob Hill is San Francisco’s most celebrated
Street in the 1850s, and today the shops and hilltop. It is famous for its cable cars, plush
markets recall the atmosphere of a typical hotels, and breathtaking views. In the
southern Chinese town, although the late 19th century, the “Big Four,” who
architecture, customs, and public events are built the first transcontinental railway,
distinctly American variations on a Cantonese were among its richest tenants, in
theme. This densely populated neighborhood their large mansions on the hill. The
with its colorful façades, teeming markets, earthquake and fire of 1906 (see pp30–31)
temples, theaters, and unique restaurants leveled all but one of these, but today’s
and stores, is “a city” within the city and a hotels still recall the opulence of
place most visitors want to see. Victorian times.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Galleries and Museums Restaurants
1 Chinatown Gateway 0 Pacific Heritage Museum see pp222–3
5 Golden Gate Fortune Cookie q Chinese Historical Society of 1 Acquerello
Company America 2 Golden Star Vietnamese
6 Chinatown Alleys t Cable Car Museum Restaurant
7 Grant Avenue Churches and Temples 3 Great Eastern
8 East West Bank 4 Henry’s Hunan
2 Old St. Mary’s Cathedral
r The Pacific-Union Club 5 House of Nanking
3 Kong Chow Temple
Historic Hotels 6 Nob Hill Café
4 Tin How Temple
7 R&G Lounge
w Mark Hopkins Inter- y Grace Cathedral
8 Swan Oyster Depot
Continental Hotel Parks and Squares
e Fairmont Hotel
9 Portsmouth Square
Y
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S T R E
P I N E
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S T R E
B U S H
0 meters 500
0 yards 500 See also Street Finder

maps 4–6
Colorful mural of a Chinese dragon in Chinatown For keys to map symbols see back flap
98  SAn frAnCISCo AreA by AreA
Street-by-Street: Chinatown
Grant Avenue is the tourist Chinatown of dragon
lampposts, upturned rooflines and neighborhood
hardware stores packed to the rafters with everything
from kites to cooking utensils. Locals shop up the hill
on Stockton Street, where the freshest vegetables,
produce, and fish spill over in boxes onto crowded
pavements. In the alleys in between, look for
traditional temples, shops, and family-run restaurants.
6 . Chinatown Alleys
Authentic sights and sounds of the Far East
Ross Alley echo in these busy alleys.
JACKS
on ST
rEE T
To bus no. 83 WASH

inGTo
n STr
EE T
5 Golden Gate
Fortune Cookies
Visitors can see San
Francisco cookies
being made.
q Chinese Historical
G
Society of America r
A
n
T
3 Kong Chow Temple
Po
Fine Cantonese wood carvings

SACr A
W
are a feature of this temple. mEnT

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Between 1909 and 1946 this Chinatown and are an essential part of the
was home to Chinatown’s area’s bustling atmosphere. Any of the
telephone exchange. three lines will take you there.
C H I N ATO W N A N D N O B H I L L  99
9 Portsmouth Square FISHERMAN’S WHARF AND

Laid out in 1839, this was NORTH BEACH
the social center for the

village of Yerba Buena.
Today it is a gathering
CHINATOWN AND
place for players of cards NOB HILL
and mahjong.
FINANCIAL DISTRICT AND
CIVIC UNION SQUARE
CENTER
locator Map
7 . Grant Avenue
In the 1830s and early 1840s
this was the main thorough- Key
fare of Yerba Buena. It is now
the busy commercial center Suggested route
of Chinatown.
0 Pacific Heritage
The Chinese Cultural Center
Museum
contains an art gallery and a small
Housed in an elegant
crafts shop. It sponsors a lively
building below the
series of lectures and seminars.
Bank of Canton, this
small museum has
fine exhibitions of
Asian art that are
regularly changed.
K
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2 Old St. Mary’s Cathedral

The clock tower of this
church, built while the city
was still in its infancy, bears
an arresting inscription.
Pine
STree
T
St. Mary’s Square 1 . Chinatown Gateway

is a quiet haven in Also known as the “Dragons’ Gate,” this
which to rest. To bus nos. 31, 38 marks Chinatown’s southern entrance.
1 Chinatown interior, with its stained-glass

Gateway windows and balcony, was
completed in 1909.
Grant Ave at Bush St. Map 5 C4.
@ 2, 3, 30, 45.
3 Kong Chow
This ornate portal, opened in
1970 and designed by Clayton Temple
Lee, spans the entrance to 4th floor, 855 Stockton St. Map 5 B4.
Chinatown’s main tourist street, Tel 788-1339. @ 1, 2, 3, 8X, 10, 12, 30,
Grant Avenue. Inspired by the 45.  California St, Powell–Hyde,
ceremonial entrances of Powell–Mason. Open 9am–4pm daily.
traditional Chinese villages, Donations appreciated. ^ 7
the three-arched gateway is
capped with green roof tiles From the top floor above the
and a host of propitiatory post office, the Kong Chow
animals – including two Temple looks out over Chinatown
dragons and two carp chasing and the Financial District.
a large, round pearl – all Although the building
of glazed ceramic. Village dates only from 1977,
gateways are often the temple altar and
commissioned by statuary are possibly
wealthy clans to the oldest Chinese
enhance their status, religious shrine in
and the names of North America. One
these benefactors are altar was carved in
inscribed on the gates. Guangzhou
This structure was (Canton), and ship-
erected by a peculiarly ped to San Francisco
American institution, in the 19th century.
the Chinatown The main shrine is
Cultural Development Entrance to Old St. Mary’s Cathedral below the clock tower presided over by a
Committee, with carved wooden
materials that were donated by old church were imported statue of Kuan Di, also dating
the Republic of China (Taiwan). from the East Coast, while the from the 19th century. He is the
It is guarded by two stone granite foundation stones deity most often found in
lions suckling their cubs through came from China. The clock shrines in Cantonese cities.
their claws, in accordance with tower bears a large inscription, Kuan Di is also frequently seen
ancient lore. Once through the “Son, observe the time and fly in Chinatown: his distinctive face
gate, you find yourself among from evil,” said to have been looks down from Taoist shrines
some of the most elegant shops directed at the brothels that in many Chinatown restaurants.
in Chinatown. Here you can buy stood across the street at the He is typically depicted with a
antiques, silks, and gems, but time it was built. Though twice large sword in one hand and a
sometimes at high prices, damaged by fire, the church book in the other – symbols of
aimed at tourists. today retains its original his dedication to both the
foundations and walls. The martial and the literary arts.
2 Old St. Mary’s
Cathedral
660 California St. Map 5 C4. Tel 288-
3800. @ 1, 2, 3, 8X, 8BX, 30, 45, 81X.
 California St, Powell–Hyde,
Powell–Mason. Mass 7:30am &
12:05pm Mon–Fri; 12:05pm & 5pm
Sat; 8am, 9:15am & 11:15am Sun. =
∑ oldsaintmarys.org
San Francisco’s first Catholic

cathedral, Old St. Mary’s served
a largely Irish congregation from
1854 to 1891, when a new St.
Mary’s Church was built on Van
Ness Avenue. Due to the lack
of suitable building materials
in California, the bricks for the Carved statue of Kuan Di inside the Kong Chow Temple
making machine nearly fills the

tiny bakery, where dough is
poured onto griddles and baked
on a conveyor belt. An attendant
inserts the “fortunes” (slips of
paper bearing mostly positive
predictions) before the cookies
are folded.
Ironically, despite its association
with Chinese culture, the fortune
cookie is unknown in China. It
was actually invented in 1909 in
San Francisco’s Japanese Tea
Garden (see p149), by then chief
gardener, Makota Hagiwara.
Final touches in the cookie factory

6 Chinatown Alleys
Three-floor climb to the Tin How Temple, There are also atmospheric,
Map 5 B3. @ 1, 30, 45.
founded in 1852 old-fashioned herbalist shops,
Contained within a busy displaying elk antlers, sea horses,
4 Tin How Temple neighborhood, the Chinatown snake wine, and other exotic
Top floor, 125 Waverly Pl. Map 5 C3. Alleys are situated between wares in their windows. Small
Tel 986-2520. @ 1, 8X, 10, 12, 30, 41, Grant Avenue and Stockton restaurants, both above and
45.  California St, Powell–Hyde, Street. These four narrow lanes below street level, serve cheap,
Powell–Mason. Open 10am–4pm intersect Washington Street delicious, home-cooked food.
daily. Donation requested. ^ within half a block of each other.
Of these, the largest is Waverly
This unusual temple, the Place, known as the “Street of 7 Grant Avenue
longest-operating Chinese Painted Balconies,” for reasons Map 5 C4. @ 1, 30, 45.
temple in the United States, that are apparent to every @ California St.
is dedicated to Tin How (Tien passerby. The alleys contain
Hau), Queen of Heaven and many old buildings, as well as The main tourist street in
protector of seafarers and traditional shops and restaurants. Chinatown, Grant Avenue is also
visitors. Originally founded by distinguished for being the first
the Cantonese clan association street of Yerba Buena, the village
in 1852, it is now situated at the that preceded San Francisco. A
top of three steep, wooden plaque at No. 823 Grant Avenue
flights of stairs. The narrow marks the block where William
space is smoky with incense A. Richardson and his Mexican
and burned paper offerings, and wife erected Yerba Buena’s first
hung with hundreds of gold edifice, a canvas tent,
and red lanterns. It is lit by red on June 25, 1835.
electric bulbs and burning wicks By October, they had
floating in oil. Gifts of fruit lie on replaced this with a
the carved altar in front of the wooden house, and the
wooden statue of Tin How. following year with a yet
more permanent adobe
(sun-dried brick) home,
5 Golden Gate called Casa Grande.
Fortune Cookie The street in which the
Company Richardsons’ house
stood was named
56 Ross Alley. Map 5 C3. Tel 781-3956. Calle de la Fundación,
@ 1, 8X, 10, 12, 30, 30X, 41, 45.  the “Street of the
California St, Powell–Hyde, Powell– Founding.” It was
Mason. Open 8am–6:30pm daily.
renamed Grant
Avenue in 1885
Although the San Francisco Bay in memory of
area has many fortune-cookie Ulysses S. Grant,
bakeries, the Golden Gate the US president
Fortune Cookie Company has and Civil War
been in business longer than general who
most, since 1962. The cookie- Effigy of the god of longevity on Grant Avenue died that year.
8 East West Bank Bank) above the existing

743 Washington St. Map 5 C3.
building, incorporating the
Tel 421-5215. @ 1, 30, 45. original street-level façade
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Thu, 9am– and basement.
6pm Fri, 9am–4pm Sat.
Before being turned into a bank q Chinese

in the 1950s, this building
housed the Chinese Telephone
Historical Society
Exchange. It was built in 1909 of America
on the site where Sam Brannan 965 Clay St. Map 5 B3. Tel 391-1188.
printed California’s first  Powell–Clay. @ 1, 30, 45. Open
newspaper. The three-tiered Portsmouth Square noon–5pm Tue–Fri, 11am–4pm Sat.
tower is like a pagoda, with Closed public hols. & except first
upward-curving eaves and a Mexico, a party of marines rowed Thu of month. = ^ ∑ chsa.org
ceramic tiled roof, and is the ashore. They raised the American
most distinctive work of flag above the plaza, officially Founded in 1963, this is the
architectural chinoiserie seizing the port as part of the oldest and largest organization
in the neighborhood. United States (see pp26–7). Two dedicated to the study,
The telephone operators years later, on May 12, 1848, it documentation, and
worked on the main floor and was here that Sam Brannan dissemination of Chinese
lived on the second floor. They announced the discovery of American history. Exhibits
were multilingual, speaking gold in the Sierra Nevada (see include the Daniel Ching
Cantonese and four other pp26–7). Over the next two collection, the original hand-
Chinese dialects. One of their decades, the square became written Chinatown telephone
original telephone books can be the hub of an increasingly book, a ceremonial dragon
seen on display in the Chinese dynamic city. In the 1860s costume, and a “tiger fork.”
Historical Society on Clay Street. the business district shifted This triton was wielded in one
southeast to flatlands reclaimed of the battles during the reign
from the bay, and the plaza of terror known as the Tong
declined in civic importance. Wars. Many objects, documents,
Portsmouth Square today is and photographs illuminate the
the social center of Chinatown. daily life of Chinese immigrants
In the morning, people practice in San Francisco in the late
t’ai chi, and from midday to 19th and early 20th centuries.
evening others gather to play The Chinese contribution to
checkers and cards. California’s development was
extensive. Chinese helped build
the western half of the first
0 Pacific Heritage transcontinental railroad and
Museum constructed dikes throughout
608 Commercial St. Map 5 C3.
the Sacramento River delta.
Tel 399-1124. @ 1, 41. Open 10am– The CHSA sponsors oral history
4pm Tue–Sat, except public hols. 7 projects, an “In Search of Roots”
program, and a monthly
As elegant as the frequently speakers forum.
changing collections of Asian
arts displayed within, this is
East West Bank entrance actually a synthesis of two
distinct buildings. The US Sub-
Treasury was built here in
9 Portsmouth
1875–7 by William Appleton
Square Potter, on the site of San
Map 5 C3. @ 1, 41. Francisco’s original mint.
You can look into the old
San Francisco’s original town coin vaults through a
square was laid out in 1839. Also cutaway section on the
lesser known as the Portsmouth ground floor, or descend in
Plaza, it was once the social the elevator for closer
center for the small village of inspection. In 1984 architects
Yerba Buena. On July 9, 1846, Skidmore, Owings, and Merrill
less than a month after American designed the 17-story
rebels in Sonoma declared headquarters of the Bank Dragon’s head, Chinese
California’s independence from of Canton (now East West Historical Society of America
Street-by-Street: Nob Hill FISHERMAN’S WHARF

AND NORTH BEACH
Nob Hill is the highest summit of the city center, rising 338 ft (103 m)
above the bay. Its steep slopes were treacherous for carriages and
CHINATOWN
kept prominent citizens away until the opening of the California AND NOB HILL
Street cable car line in 1878. After that, the wealthy “nobs” soon
built new homes on the peak of the hill. Though the grandiose CIVIC
UNION SQUARE
CENTER
mansions were burned down in the great fire of 1906 (see pp30–31),
Nob Hill still attracts the affluent to its splendid hotels. locator Map
e Fairmont Hotel
This luxurious hotel is
known for its marble
lobby and elegant dining.
r The Pacific-Union Club

Now an exclusive men’s
club, this was once the The Stanford Court, a
mansion of Comstock Renaissance hotel,
millionaire James occupies the site of
Flood. Stanford’s mansion;
y . Grace Cathedral the original
The cathedral is a replica eT boundary walls
re
of Notre Dame in Paris. ST remain.
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Huntington Hotel
Huntington Park with its Big Four Bar
is on the site of and Restaurant
Collis P. Huntington’s exudes the opulent
great mansion. urbane atmosphere
of the Victorian era
on Nob Hill.
The Nob Hill Masonic Auditorium honors

Freemasons who died in American wars.
w . Mark Hopkins
InterContinental Hotel
0 meters 150 Key The hotel’s Top of the Mark
penthouse bar is celebrated
0 yards 150 Suggested route
for its spectacular views.
w Mark Hopkins the original white terra-cotta

InterContinental façade, it opened for business
one year later. After World War II
Hotel it was the scene of meetings
999 California St. Map 5 B4. Tel 392- that led to the founding of the
3434. @ 1.  California St, Powell– United Nations. For stunning
Mason, Powell–Hyde. See Where to views, ride the elevator to the
Stay p215. ∑ intercontinental city’s highest observation point,
markhopkins.com the Fairmont Crown; or, enjoy a
cocktail at the hotel’s famed
At the behest of his wife Mary, Tonga Room and Hurricane Bar.
Mark Hopkins (see below)
arranged for a fantastic wooden
r The Pacific-Union
mansion, surpassing every other
for ostentatious ornamentation, Club
to be built on Nob Hill (see 1000 California St. Map 5 B4.
below). When Mrs. Hopkins died, Tel 775-1234. @ 1.  California St,
the house became home to the Forecourt of the Mark Hopkins Powell–Mason, Powell–Hyde.
fledgling San Francisco Art InterContinental Hotel Closed to the public.
Institute. It burned in the fire of
1906 (see pp30–31), and only the e Fairmont Hotel Augustus Laver built this
granite retaining walls remain. 950 Mason St. Map 5 B4. Tel 772-5000. town house for the “Bonanza
The present 25-story tower, @ 1.  California St, Powell–Mason, King” James Flood (see below)
capped by a flag visible from all Powell–Hyde. See Where to Stay p215. in 1885. Its Italianate, brown
over the city, was built in 1925 by ∑ fairmont.com/san-francisco sandstone façade survived the
architects Weeks and Day. Top of 1906 fire (see pp30–31), though
the Mark (see p259), the glass- Built by Tessie Fair Oelrichs (see the other mansions, built of
walled bar on the 19th floor, is below), this Beaux Arts building wood, were destroyed. The
one of the city’s most celebrated was completed on the eve of gutted building was bought
drinking establishments. World the 1906 earthquake (see pp30– by the Pacific-Union Club, an
War II servicemen customarily 31), and stood for two days exclusive gentlemen’s club that
drank a farewell toast to the city before it was burned down. had its origins in Gold Rush San
here before leaving for overseas. Rebuilt by Julia Morgan within Francisco (see pp26–7).
The Nobs of Nob Hill William O’Brien. In 1872, made up the principal
“Nob” was one of the kinder the four men bought investors behind the
names reserved for the controlling interests in first transcontinental
unscrupulous entrepreneurs some dwindling railway. Their
who amassed vast fortunes Comstock mines, biggest enterprise,
during the development of sinking new shafts the Central Pacific
the American West. Many of and striking a Railroad (it was
the nobs who lived on Nob Hill “bonanza” – a rich later renamed
acquired other nicknames that pocket of high-grade Southern Pacific)
hint at the wild stories silver ore. Flood was an influential
behind their returned to San corporation in the
vast wealth. Francisco as a millionaire burgeoning West.
“Bonanza King” and bought a parcel of It acquired great wealth
Bonanza Jim
James Flood land on the summit of and influence as a result
joined in a Nob Hill, across the street of the generous land
partnership from a plot owned by James Fair. grants bestowed by the US
with Irish The Flood Mansion (now the Congress to encourage railroad
immigrants Pacific-Union Club) still stands. construction. Bribery and
James Fair, John The monument on Fair’s property, corruption made the Big Four
Mackay, and the Fairmont Hotel, was built by among the most hated men
his daughter, Tessie, after his of 19th-century America.
Mark Hopkins death (see above). In this capacity, they were
1814–78 characterized by yet another
The Big Four popular nickname: the
Other distinguished residents of “Robber Barons.” All four built
Nob Hill were the “Big Four,” big mansions on Nob Hill, but
Leland Stanford, Mark Hopkins, these did not survive the
Charles Crocker, and Collis P. devastation of the 1906
Huntington. This shrewd quartet earthquake and fire.
t Cable Car to the ground floor are the

Museum engines and wheels that wind
the cables through the system
1201 Mason St. Map 5 B3. of channels and pulleys
Tel 474-1887. @ 1, 12, 30, 45, 83.
beneath the streets. Observe
 Powell–Mason, Powell–Hyde.
them from the mezzanine,
Open 10am–6pm daily (Oct–Mar:
then walk downstairs to see
to 5pm). Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving,
Dec 25. 7 mezzanine only. = under the street. The museum
∑ cablecarmuseum.org houses an early cable car and
specimens of the mechanisms
This is both a museum and the that control the individual cars.
powerhouse of the cable car The system is the last of its Entrance to San Francisco’s Cable
system (see pp106–7). Anchored kind in the world. Car Museum
y Grace Cathedral September 1928, the cathedral blue glass of Chartres. The rose
was not completed until 1964, window, made with 1-inch-
1100 California St. Map 5 B4. Tel 749-
6300. @ 1.  California St. Open
and the interior vaulting remains (2.5-cm-) thick faceted glass, is
8am–6pm daily (to 7pm Sun). 5 unfinished to this day. Notre illuminated from inside at night.
8:30am & 6pm Sun; choral evensong Dame in Paris was one of Other windows, by Henry
5:15pm Thu, 3pm Sun; choral Eucharist several inspirations for Willet and Gabriel Loire,
11am Sun. 7 8 daily; see website the building, include depictions of
for times. = ∑ gracecathedral.org which modern heroes such as
incorporates Albert Einstein. Objects
Grace Cathedral is the mother traditional in the cathedral include
church of the Episcopal Diocese elements such as a 13th-century Catalonian
of California and the third- a rose window. crucifix and a 16th-century
largest Episcopal cathedral in The interior is silk and gold Brussels
Stained-glass
the US. Designed by Lewis P. replete with marble tapestry. The doors of the
detail
Hobart, it stands on the site and stained glass. main entrance are cast from
of the two Charles and William Its leaded-glass windows molds of Lorenzo Ghiberti’s
H. Crocker mansions (see p104). were designed by Charles “Doors of Paradise,” made for
Although building started in Connick, inspired by the the Baptistry in Florence.
The New Testament Window, The Rose Window was
made in 1931 by Charles made in Chartres by Gabriel The Carillon Tower
Connick, is placed on Loire in 1964. houses 44 bells made in
the south side of England in 1938.
the church.
Entrance
The Chapel of The Doors of

Grace, funded by Paradise are
the Crocker family, decorated with scenes
has a 15th-century from the Bible and portraits of
French altarpiece. Ghiberti and contemporaries. Entrances
San Francisco’s Cable Cars

The cable car system was launched in 1873, with its
inventor Andrew Hallidie riding in the first car. He was
inspired to tackle the problem of transporting people
up the city’s steep slopes after seeing a horrible
accident: a horse-drawn tram slipped down a hill,
dragging the horses with it. His system was a success,
and by 1889 cars were running on eight lines. Before
the 1906 earthquake (see pp30–31), more than 600
cars were in use. With the advent of the internal
combustion engine, cable cars became obsolete, and
in 1947 attempts were made to replace them with The Cable Car Barn garages the cars
buses. After a public outcry the present three lines, at night and is a repair shop, museum,
and powerhouse for the entire cable-
using 17 miles (25 km) of track, were retained. car system (see p105).
KEY
1 Bell
2 Sandbox
3 Grip handle
4 Center plate and jaws grip the
cable
5 Emergency brake
6 Wheel brake
7 Cable
8 Brake block
9 Brake shoe
How Cable Cars Work

Engines in the central powerhouse wind a
looped cable under the city streets, guided
by a system of grooved pulleys. When the Brake
gripman in the cable car applies the grip lever
handle, the grip reaches Grip
through a slot in the street handle
and grabs the cable. This Side
pulls the car along at a seating
steady speed of 9.5 mph Destination
(15.5 km/h). To stop, the board
Cable-
gripman releases the grip
car floor
and applies the brake.
Great skill is needed at corners Wooden
where the cable passes over a beams
pulley. The gripman must Paving
release the grip to allow the stones
Cable-car grip Grip crotch
mechanism car to coast over the pulley.
Yoke
Hatch House is the name given to a four-story

house that needed moving in its entirety in 1913.
Herbert Hatch used a system of jacks and hoists to A cable-car celebration was held in
maneuver the house across the cable car line 1984 after a two-year renovation of the
without causing any cessation of the service. system. Each car was restored, and all
lines were replaced with reinforced
tracks. The system should now work
safely for 100 years.
A cable-car bell-ringing
contest is held in Union
Square every July, when
conductors ring out their
most spirited rhythms. On
the street, the bell signals
a warning to other traffic.
The original San Francisco cable car, tested by

Hallidie on Clay Street on August 2, 1873, is on
display in the Cable Car Barn (see p105). The
cable car system has remained essentially
unchanged since its invention.
Andrew Smith Hallidie

Andrew Smith was born in London in
1836 and later adopted his uncle’s
surname. He trained as a mechanic,
moving in 1852 to San Francisco,
where he formed a company that made
wire rope. In 1873 he tested the first
Rebuilding the cable cars is
cable car, which soon became
done with attention to historical
profitable and opened the hills of
detail because they are
the city to development.
designated historic monuments.

UNION SQUARE
Montgomery Street, now in the heart of Today, old-style banking halls from the
the Financial District, was once a street of early 20th century stand in the shadow of
small shops, where miners came to weigh glass and steel skyscrapers, and crowds
their gold dust. It roughly marks the old of office workers throng the streets.
shoreline of the shallow Yerba Buena Cove, Union Square is at the center of the city’s
which was filled in during the Gold Rush main shopping district, and has a wealth
years (see pp26–7) to create more land. of fine department stores.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Theaters 11 Kokkari Estiatorio
2 Jackson Square Historical District a Theater District 12 Kuleto’s
6 Union Bank of California Parks and Squares 13 Michael Mina
7 Merchant’s Exchange 14 Millennium
9 Justin Herman Plaza
8 Pacific Coast Stock Exchange 15 Old Ship Saloon
p Union Square
0 Ferry Building 16 One Market
q California Historical Society Restaurants see pp222–8 17 Osha Thai
d Powell Street Cable Car Turntable 18 Press Club
1 5A5 Streak Lounge
g Old United States Mint 19 Salt House
2 21st Amendment
Museums and Galleries 20 Sam’s Grill and Seafood
3 Bouche
Restaurant
3 Wells Fargo History Museum 4 Chutney
21 South Park Café
w Museum of the African Diaspora 5 Le Colonial
22 Tadich Grill
r Contemporary Jewish Museum 6 Delancey Street Restaurant
23 Yank Sing
y Museum of Modern Art pp120–23 7 Farallon
Modern Architecture 8 Gaylord India
9 The Grove
1 Embarcadero Center
10 Hi-Dive
4 555 California
5 Transamerica Pyramid PIER 7
e Rincon Center D W AY
BROA
t Yerba Buena Gardens pp116–17
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Downtown San Francisco at dusk For keys to map symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Financial District

San Francisco’s economic engine is fueled
largely by the Financial District, one of the chief
commercial centers in the US. It reaches from
the imposing modern towers and plazas of the
Embarcadero Center to staid Montgomery
Street, sometimes known as the “Wall Street of
the West.” All the principal banks, brokers,
exchanges, and law offices are situated within
this compact area. The Jackson Square
Historical District, north of Washington Street,
was once the heart of the business community. 1 . Embarcadero Center
The center houses both commercial
outlets and offices. A shopping arcade
occupies the first three tiers of the towers.
Hotaling Place, a narrow alley
leading to the Jackson Square
2 Jackson Square Historical District
Historical District, has several This district recalls the Gold Rush era
good antiques shops. more than any other.
The Golden Era Building, was built during

the Gold Rush. It was the home of the paper Bus stop (no. 41)
ET
Golden Era, for which Mark Twain wrote. RE
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5 . Transamerica Pyramid
N
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Since 1972, this 853 ft (256 m)

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skyscraper has been the tallest

M
ER
on the city’s skyline.

Y
ST
RE
ET
6 Union Bank of
California
The grand banking hall
is guarded by fierce stone
lions carved by sculptor
Arthur Putnam.
3 Wells Fargo History Museum

An original stagecoach, evoking 7 Merchant’s
the wilder days of the old West, is 4 555 California Exchange
one of the many exhibits in this The former world headquarters of Epic paintings of
recently renovated transportation Bank of America was the city’s tallest local shipping scenes
and banking museum. skyscraper until 1972. line the walls.
FINANCIAL DISTRICT AND uNIoN SquARe  111
California Street, busy with FISHERMAN’S WHARF AND

clanging cable cars, sweeps to NORTH BEACH
the top of Nob Hill.

CHINATOWN AND
NOB HILL
9 Justin Herman Plaza

On sunny days lunchtime FINANCIAL DISTRICT AND
UNION SQUARE
crowds fill the plaza.
Bus stop (nos. 2, 9) Locator Map

See Street Finder maps 5 & 6
DA
VI
S
ST
RE
ET
DR
UM
M
T
ST
TO
RE
En
The Gandhi Monument (1988), on
ET
R AM the east side of the Ferry Building,

SA
C ET
RE facing the Bay Bridge, was
ST
designed by K.B. Patel and sculpted
by Z. Pounov and S. Lowe. It bears
FR
On
nIA
an inscription of Gandhi’s words.
OR
T
LIF ET
ST
CA R E
RE
ST
ET
ET RE
ET ST
MARK
0 Ferry Building
This building houses more than
40 gourmet shops and eateries.
ET
RE
ST
nE
PI
Key
Suggested route
8 Pacific Coast Stock Exchange

Now converted to a health club,
this was once the focal point of
0 meters 100
city’s trade.
0 yards 100
First Interstate Center, home of

the Mandarin Oriental Hotel.
1 Embarcadero
Center
Map 6 D3. @ 1, 32, 41. v J, K, L, M, N.
 California St. See Shopping in
San Francisco p233.
The Embarcadero Center was
completed in 1981 after a
decade of construction. It is San
Francisco’s largest redevelop
ment project and reaches from
Justin Herman Plaza to Battery
Street. Four separate highrise
towers reach upward 35 to 40
stories above the landscaped
plazas and elevated walkways.
Embarcadero Center’s most
spectacular interior is the lobby
of the Hyatt Regency Hotel.
Its 17story atrium contains an
immense sculptured globe by
Charles Perry, entitled Eclipse
(1973). Glass elevators glide up
and down one wall, carrying
visitors to and from their rooms. Lobby of the Hyatt Regency Hotel at the Embarcadero Center
Also housed in the center are
an array of shops and a movie (see pp28–9). The Hippodrome transported gold from the West
theater screening an impressive at 555 Pacific Street used to Coast to the East and delivered
number of independent and be a theater; the bawdy relief mail. Wells Fargo put mail boxes
foreign films. sculptures in the recessed front in convenient locations and
recall the risqué shows that messengers sorted the letters
were performed there. Today en route. Wells Fargo played a
the buildings are used as show major role in the mail service
rooms, law offices, and antique venture, Pony Express.
shops; the best can be seen The stagecoaches (see p110),
on Jackson Street, Gold Street, like the one on display in the
Hotaling Place, and Mont museum, are famous for the
gomery Street. legends of heroic drivers and
the bandits who robbed them.
The bestknown bandit was Black
3 Wells Fargo Bart, who left poems at the scene
History Museum of his crimes. He stalked the
roads from Calaveras County to
420 Montgomery St. Map 5 C4.
Tel 3962619. @ 1, 3, 10, 41.
the Oregon border between
 California St.  Montgomery. 1875 and 1883, holding up
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. stagecoaches. In one
Closed public hols. 7 = holdup he mistakenly left
∑ wellsfargohistory.com/ a handkerchief with a
Hotaling Place in Jackson Square museums/san-francisco distinctive laundry mark,
revealing him to be
Founded in 1852, a mining engineer
2 Jackson Square
Wells Fargo & Co. named Charles Boles.
Historical District became the greatest Visitors to the
Map 5 C3. @ 12, 41, 83. banking and transport recently renovated
company in the West and museum can experience
Renovated in the early 1950s, was influential in the how it felt to sit for days
this lowrise neighborhood development of the in a jostling stagecoach,
contains many historic brick, American frontier. The listen to the recordings
castiron, and granite façades company moved people of Francis Brocklehurst,
dating from the Gold Rush era. and goods from the East to an immigrant, and view
From 1850 to 1910, it was the West Coast, and exhibits that include Pony
notorious for its squalor and the between California Express mail, a working
crudeness of its inhabitants and mining camps and Black Bart, the telegraph, weaponry,
was known as the Barbary Coast towns. It also poet bandit and gold nuggets.
FINANCIAL DISTRICT AND UNION SQUARE  113
4 555 California The Bank of America was

555 California St. Map 5 C4. Tel 392-
originally the Bank of Italy,
1697. @ 1, 41.  California St. founded by A. P. Giannini in San
 Montgomery. Jose, California. It built up a huge
clientele early in the 20th century
Formerly the global head- by catering to immigrants and
quarters of Bank of America, by investing in the booming
this red granite-clad building farmlands and small towns. In
symbolized the importance and the great fire of 1906 (see pp30–
power of the banking industry. 31) Giannini personally rescued
Completed in 1969, its 52 stories his bank’s deposits, carting
made it at one time the tallest them to safety hidden in fruit
skyscraper in San Francisco. crates, so there were sufficient
There are incredible views of funds for the bank to invest in Transcendence (1967) by Masayuki Nagare
the city from the 52nd floor. the rebuilding of the city. outside 555 California
The spire is hollow, rising 212 ft (64 m) above the top

5 Transamerica floor. Lit from inside, it casts a warm yellow glow at night.
Pyramid Its purpose is purely decorative.
600 Montgomery St. Map 5 C3.
@ 1, 10, 12, 30, 41. Closed to the
public. 7 ∑ transamerica.com
Vertical Wings
The wings of the building rise
Capped with a pointed spire
vertically from the middle of the
on top of its 48 stories, the
ground floor and extend beyond
pyramid reaches 853 ft the frame, which tapers inward.
(256 m) above sea level. The east wing houses 18 elevator
It is the tallest and most shafts; the west wing houses a
recognized building in smoke tower and stairs.
the city and, although
San Franciscans disliked it
when it opened in 1972, Earthquake Protection
they have since accepted The exterior is covered
it as part of their city’s with white precast quartz
skyline. Since September aggregate, interlaced
11, 2001, the pyramid has with reinforcing rods on
been closed to the public, each floor. Clearance
though there is a visitor’s between the panels
center in the lobby. allows lateral movement
in case of an earthquake.
Designed by William
Pereira & Associates,
The 3,678 windows take
the pyramid houses cleaners one month to wash.
1,500 office workers on
a historically rich site. City Views
The Montgomery Block, Workers in the upper-
which contained many floor offices have
important offices and stupendous 360° views
was the largest building of the entire city, and
west of the Mississippi, right across San
was built here in 1853. In Francisco Bay.
the basement was the
Exchange Saloon, which
was frequented by Mark
Twain. In the 1860s
The Shape
artists and writers took
The building tapers so that it
up residence in the
casts a smaller shadow than
Montgomery Block. a conventional design.
The Pony Express
terminus, marked
by a plaque, was
at Merchant The foundation rests on a steel-and-concrete
Street opposite block, sunk 52 ft (15.5 m) into the ground, and
the pyramid. designed to move with earth tremors.
8 Pacific Coast
Stock Exchange
301 Pine St. Map 5 C4. @ 3, 41.
Closed to the public.
This was once America’s largest
stock exchange outside New
York. Founded in 1882, it
occupied these buildings, which
Classical façade of the Union Bank were remodeled by Miller and
of California Pflueger in 1930 from the
existing US Treasury. The
6 Union Bank monumental granite statues that
of California flank the Pine Street entrance to
the building were made by the
renowned San Francisco sculp-
Tel 765-0400. @ 1, 2, 10, 12, 41.
tor, painter, and muralist Ralph
@ California St. 7 ^
Stackpole, also in 1930. Due to
William Ralston and Darius changing trading methods, the
Mills founded this bank in building is no longer a stock
1864. Ralston, known as “the exchange and has been
man who built San Francisco,” converted into a fitness club.
invested profitably in Comstock
mines (see p29). He, in turn,
used the bank and his personal 9 Justin Herman
fortune to finance many civic Plaza
projects in San Francisco.
Map 6 D3. @ many buses.
These included the city’s
v J, K, L, M, N. @ California St.
water company, a theater,
and the Palace Hotel (see p115). Popular with lunchtime crowds
However, when economic from the nearby Embarcadero
depression struck in the 1870s, Center and other offices, this The clock tower on the Ferry Building
Ralston’s empire also collapsed. plaza is mostly known for its
The present colonnaded avant-garde Vaillancourt
building was completed in Fountain, made in 1971 by 0 Ferry Building
1908. In the basement there Canadian artist Armand
Embarcadero at Market St. Map 6 E3.
is a pleasant arcade of shops, Vaillancourt. The fountain is @ many buses. v F, J, K, L, M, N.
restaurants, and small art and modeled from huge concrete @ California St. ∑ ferrybuilding
photography exhibits. blocks, and some find it ugly, marketplace.com
especially when allowed to run
dry in times of drought. However, Constructed between 1896
7 Merchant’s you can climb on and through it, and 1903, the Ferry Building
Exchange and its pools and columns of survived the great fire of
falling water make it an intriguing 1906 (see pp30–31) through
Tel 421-7730. @ 1, 3, 10, 12, 41.
public work of art when it is the intercession of fireboats
@ Montgomery. Open 9am–5pm functioning as intended. pumping water from the
Mon–Fri, Sat & Sun by appt only. bay. The clock tower is 235 ft
Closed public hols. 7 ^ (71 m) high, and was inspired
∑ mxbuilding.com by the Moorish bell tower
of Seville Cathedral. In the
The exchange, designed by early 1930s more than 50
Willis Polk in 1903, survived million passengers a year
the great fire of 1906 with little passed through the building.
damage. Inside, fine seascapes The Ferry Building now
by the Irish painter William houses many gourmet shops
Coulter line the walls. These selling a huge variety of
depict epic maritime scenes fresh produce, as well as
from the age of steam and sail. several restaurants and
The building was the focal point eateries. On Tuesdays and
of San Francisco’s commodities Saturdays, a Farmers’ Market
exchange in the early 20th is held around the outside of
century, when lookouts in the building.
the tower relayed news of The Vaillancourt Fountain in Justin With the opening of the
ships arriving from abroad. Herman Plaza Bay Bridge in 1936, the Ferry
Building ceased to be the city’s

main point of entry. Today,
only a few ferries cross the
bay to Larkspur and Sausalito
in Marin County (see p163),
and Alameda and Oakland in
the East Bay (see pp166–9).
q California
Historical Society
678 Mission St. Map 6 D5.
Tel 357-1848. @ 9, 30, 45. v J,
K, L, M, N, T. @ Montgomery.
Open Library: noon–5pm Wed–Fri; Rincon Annex mural depicting the Spanish discovery of San Francisco
Gallery: noon–5pm Tue–Sun.
∑ californiahistoricalsociety.org w Museum of the r Contemporary
The society provides research

African Diaspora Jewish Museum
libraries, museum galleries, 685 Mission St. Map 5 C5. Tel 358- 736 Mission St. Map 5 C5. Tel 655-
and a bookstore. There is a 7200. @14, 30, 45. v J, K, L, M, N, T. 7800. @14, 30, 45. v J, K, L, M, N, T.
photographic collection, Open 11am–6pm Wed–Sat, noon– Open 11am–5pm Fri–Tue, 11am–
5pm Sun. Closed major hols. 8pm Thu. Closed major Jewish
more than 900 paintings and
∑ moadsf.org holidays, Jan 1, Jul 4, Thanksgiving.
watercolors by American artists,
7 = 8 - ∑ thecjm.org
a decorative arts exhibit, and a
unique costume collection. This museum’s central idea is that This museum partners with
we all share a common African national and international
past. Exhibits cover African music, cultural institutions to present
culinary traditions, and explain a variety of art, photography,
slave trade. There are interactive and installations celebrating
lectures, exhibits, and workshops. and exploring Judaism.
e Rincon Center
t Yerba Buena
Map 6 B4. @ 14. See Shopping in San
Francisco p233. Gardens
See pp116–17.
This shopping center, with its
soaring atrium, was added on
to the old Rincon Annex Post y Museum of
Office Building in 1989. The Modern Art
Rincon Annex is known for
See pp120–23.
Anton Refregier’s murals, show-
Fishing in the harbor ing aspects of the city’s history.
u Palace Hotel
2 New Montgomery St. Map 5 C4.
Tel 512-1111. @ 7, 9, 21, 31, 45, 71.
v J, K, L, M, N, T. See Where to Stay p215.
The original Palace Hotel was

opened by William Ralston, one
of San Francisco’s best-known
financiers, in 1875. It was the
most luxurious of San Francisco’s
early hotels and was regularly
frequented by the rich and
famous. Among its patrons were
Sarah Bernhardt, Oscar Wilde, and
Rudyard Kipling. The celebrated
tenor Enrico Caruso was a guest
at the time of the earthquake
of 1906 (see pp30–31), when the
hotel caught fire. It was rebuilt
by the architect George Kelham,
The magnificent Garden Court at the Palace Hotel and reopened in 1909.
t Yerba Buena Gardens

The construction of the Moscone Center, San
Francisco’s largest venue for conventions, was just
the first in a series of ambitious development plans
for Yerba Buena Gardens. Housing, hotels, museums,
shops, galleries, restaurants, and gardens have
followed. This area is a vibrant hub of activity. World-
class art events take place as part of the Yerba Buena
Gardens Festival between May and October.
. Yerba Buena Center for the Arts
Galleries, Forum, and a screening room
featuring contemporary films and videos
are the highlights.
Esplanade Gardens
Visitors can wander
along the paths or, in
the summer, catch a
free event.
KEY
1 Children’s Creativity Museum,

formerly known as Zeum, is a top
destination for children of all ages.
Combining imagination with art
and technology tools, visitors can
create animations, music videos,
digital art, and more.
2 The Martin Luther King Jr.
Memorial has words of peace in
several languages.
3 North entrance to Moscone
Center
4 South entrance to Moscone
Center
5 East Garden
6 Esplanade Ballroom is part of
San Francisco’s extensive convention Moscone Center
facilities. It is available for large
Engineer T.Y. Lin found an ingenious way to
conferences and symposia.
support the children’s center above this huge
7 Ice-skating rink underground hall without a single interior
8 The children’s center has column. The bases of the eight steel arches are
imaginative play equipment in a linked, like an archer’s bowstrings, by cables
pleasant outdoor setting. under the floor. By tightening the cables, the
arches exert enormous upward thrust.
Lam Research Theater at Yerba ViSiToRS’ CheCkLiST

Buena Center for the Arts
Performing arts Practical Information
reflecting the cultural Mission, 3rd, Folsom & 4th Streets.
diversity of San Map 5 C5.
Francisco are Tel 820-3550.
presented in the ∑ yerbabuenagardens.com
755-seat indoor Children’s Creativity Museum:
theater. Tel 820-3320.
open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun
(summer), 11am–5pm Wed–Sun
(school year). Closed Jul 4,
Dec 25. & 7 =
Yerba Buena Center for the Arts:
Tel 978-2700.
open noon–8pm Thu–Sat, noon–
6pm Sun (also noon–8pm 1st Tue
of month). Closed public holidays.
& (free 1st Tue of month). ^ 7
Transport
@ 9, 14, 30, 45, 76. v J, K, L, M,
N, T.
. San Francisco
Museum of
Modern Art
This privately funded museum is
opposite Yerba Buena Gardens.
Exhibition hall Ground-level Base of

Entrance foyer
rooftop supporting arch
Ballroom
Gump’s has the a Theater District

largest collection in Map 5 B5. @ 2, 3, 38. @ Powell–
the US of fine china Mason, Powell–Hyde. v J, K, L, M, N, T.
and crystal, which See Entertainment pp250–51.
includes famous
names such as Several theaters are located
Baccarat, Steuben, near Union Square, all within a
and Lalique. six-block area. The two biggest
The store is also are on Geary Boulevard, two
celebrated for its blocks west of the square.
Oriental treasures, These are the Curran Theater,
furniture, and the built in 1922, and the Geary
rare works of art Theater, built in 1909 and
in the art depart- now home to the American
ment. The Asian Conservatory Theater (ACT).
art is particularly Drama has flourished in San
fine, especially the Francisco since the days of the
remarkable jade Gold Rush (see pp26–7), and
collection, which great actors and opera stars
enjoys a worldwide have been attracted to the city.
reputation. In 1949 Isadora Duncan, the famous,
Gump’s imported innovative 1920s dancer, was
the great bronze born in the Theater District at
Central plaza of the Crocker Galleria Buddha and 501 Taylor Street.
presented it to the Japanese
i Crocker Galleria Tea Garden (see p149). Gump’s
has an exclusive, refined
Between Post, Kearny, Sutter, and
Montgomery Sts. Map 5 C4. Tel 393-
atmosphere and is frequented
1500. @ 2, 3. v J, K, L, M, N, T. by the rich and famous. It is
See Shopping in San Francisco p233. renowned for its colorful and
extravagant window displays.
The Crocker Galleria was built
in 1982, by architects Skidmore,
Owings, and Merrill. Inspired p Union Square
by the Galleria Vittorio Map 5 C5. @ 2, 3, 30, 38, 45.
Emmanuelle in Milan, this v J, K, L, M, N, T. @ Powell–Mason,
building features a central plaza Powell–Hyde.
under a vaulting skylight roof.
More than 50 shops and Union Square was named for the
restaurants are housed here big, pro-Union rallies held there
on three floors, with displays during the Civil War of 1861–5.
promoting the best of American The rallies galvanized popular
and European designers. support in San Francisco for the
Northern cause, and this was San Francisco’s famous stores overlooking
instrumental in bringing Union Square
o Gump’s California into the war on the
135 Post St. Map 5 C4. Tel 982-1616.
side of the Union. The square s Union Square
is at the heart of the city’s
@ 2, 3, 4, 30, 38, 45. v J, K, L, M,
shopping district and marks
Shops
N, T. @ Powell–Mason,
Powell–Hyde. Open 10am– the edge of the Theater Map 5 C5. @ 2, 3, 30, 38, 45.
District. It is bordered @ Powell–Mason, Powell–Hyde.
6pm Mon–Sat, noon–5pm
on the west side by v J, K, L, M, N, T. See Shopping p233.
Sun. 7 See Shopping in San
Francisco p237. the famous Westin St.
Francis Hotel, and at Many of San Francisco’s largest
Founded in 1861 by the center there is a statue department stores can be found
German immigrants who of Victory at the top of a here, including Macy’s, Sak’s
were former mirror and frame 90 ft (27 m) column. Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus,
merchants, this homegrown This monument and Gump’s (see pp232–3), as
San Francisco commemorates well as grand hotels, antiquarian
department store is Admiral Dewey’s bookstores, and boutiques.
an institution. Many victory at Manila The Union Square Frank Lloyd
local couples register Bay during the Wright Building, at 140 Maiden
their wedding present Victory monument in Spanish-American Lane, is the precursor to New
list with the store. Union Square War of 1898. York’s Guggenheim Museum.
d Powell Street
Cable Car Turntable
Hallidie Plaza, Powell St at Market St.
Map 5 C5. @ many buses.
v J, K, L, M, N, T. @ Powell–Mason,
Powell–Hyde.
The Powell–Hyde and the
Powell–Mason cable car lines
are the most spectacular routes
in San Francisco. They start and
end their journeys to Nob Hill,
Chinatown, and Fisherman’s
Wharf at the corner of Powell
Street and Market Street. Unlike
the double-ended cable cars on
the California Street line, the
Powell Street cable cars were
built to move in one direction
only – hence the need for a
turntable at every terminus.
After the car’s passengers
have disembarked, it is pushed
onto the turntable and rotated
manually by the conductor and
gripman. Prospective customers
for the return journey wait amid
an ever-moving procession of Rotating a cable car on the Powell Street turntable
street musicians, shoppers,
tourists, and office workers. for its Neo-Classical rotunda, fortified by iron shutters and its
can be found on the lower- basement vaults impregnable.
level floors. The building was one of the few
f Westfield San to survive the 1906 earthquake
Francisco Centre and fire (see pp30–31). Plans are
g Old United underway to convert the Mint
Market St and Powell St. Map 5 C5.
Tel 512-6776. @ 5, 7, 9, 14, 21, 71. States Mint into a museum.
v J, K, L, M, N.  Powell–Mason, Fifth St and Mission St. Map 5 C5.
Powell–Hyde. Open 10am–8:30pm @ 14, 14L, 26, 27. v J, K, L, M, N, T.
daily (to 7pm Sun). ∑ westfield.com Closed to the public. h San Francisco
See Shopping in San Francisco p233.
One of San Francisco’s three
Visitor Information
Shoppers are carried upward mints, the Old Mint operated Center
on semi-spiral escalators as a museum from 1973 to 1994; Powell St at Market St under Hallidie
through this mall, which its last coins were produced in Plaza. Map 5 B5. Tel 391-2000 or 391-
consists of a soaring, central 1937. Designed in a Classical 2001. @ many buses: J, K, L, M, N, T.
atrium with nine floors of style, the building is constructed @ Powell–Mason, Powell–Hyde.
elegant shops. It is topped of sturdy granite, hence its Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–3pm
by a dome, 150 ft (45 m) nickname, “Granite Lady.” It was Sat & Sun. Closed Sun (Nov–Apr).
above the ground floor. built by A.B. Mullet between 7 limited. ∑ sanfrancisco.travel
The basement levels 1869 and 1874, its windows
provide Inquire here for information
access to on tours of the city and
the Powell surrounding areas, festivals,
Street Station. special events, restaurants,
Nordstrom’s accommodations, nightlife,
department sightseeing, and shopping.
store is on Maps and a wide range of
the top five brochures are available in
levels and English and other languages,
is the mall’s while a multilingual staff is on
main tenant. hand to answer any questions.
Entrances You can make inquiries by
to Blooming- telephone, or use their 24-hour
dale’s, famed The impregnable “Granite Lady” Old Mint information recording.
y San Francisco Museum of Modern Art

This museum forms the nucleus of San Francisco’s
reputation as a leading center of modern art. Created
in 1935, it moved into its current quarters in 1995, and
in Spring 2016 reopened after a major three-year $365
million expansion that doubled its capacity. Designed
by the international architecture firm Snøhetta,
the new 235,000-square-foot expansion is seamlessly
integrated with Swiss architect Mario Botta’s 1995
modernist building. The museum offers a dynamic
schedule of special exhibitions and permanent
Expansion
collection presentations in its 130,000 sq ft The eastern facade of the new
(12,075 sq m) gallery space. expansion, designed by Snøhetta, is
inspired in part by the waters of
the San Francisco Bay. Its ground level
features free exhibition spaces.
Museum Guide
The ground floor welcomes Second
visitors with free art-filled public floor
spaces and galleries. The Koret
Education Center and works from
the permanent collection of
painting and sculpture are on the
second floor, as is a new gallery
for works on paper and galleries
dedicated to California art. The
new 15,000 square-foot Pritzker
Center for Photography is on the
third floor. The Doris and Donald
Fisher Collection, comprising
more than 1,100 works, begins on
the third floor with a gallery of . No. 14, 1960
works by Alexander Calder, and This oil on canvas was
continues in the Fisher Galleries painted by Mark
on the fourth, fifth, and sixth Rothko, a leading
floors. The sixth floor also features Abstract Expressionist.
spaces dedicated to architecture It is one of the artist’s
and design, while the seventh most beautiful and
floor showcases contemporary hypnotic works.
works as well as galleries
dedicated to media arts, and
a two-story conservation lab
and artist’s studio.
Key to Floor Plan First floor

Painting and sculpture
Architecture and design
Photography
Media arts Atrium
Koret Education Center
Special exhibitions
Theatre
Roberts Family Gallery
Sculpture Garden
Contemporary Galleries Third Street
Non-exhibition space entrance
151 Third St.
Map 11 C1.
Tel (415) 357-4000.
Open Galleries: 10am–5pm daily
(to 9pm Thu). Public spaces:
9am–5pm. Last admission
30 mins before closing.
Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
& 8 = - Special events,
Seventh floor features, seminars, film
and Terrace presentations, library,
educational programs.
∑ sfmoma.org
Sixth floor
Transport
@ 5, 9, 12, 14, 30, 38, 45.
Fifth floor v J, K, L, M, N, T.
h near Yerba Buena Gardens.
Fourth
floor
. Lesende (Reading)
This 1994 work is by the
German artist Gerhard
Richter, whose oeuvre
encompasses gestural
abstraction, landscape,
portraiture, and photo-
based painting.
Koret Education Center

The reimagined Koret
Education Center houses
a resource library and
classrooms, serving
students, teachers
and lifelong learners.
Third floor
. California Art
Richard Shaw’s sculpted
figure Melodious Double
Stops (1980) is a highlight
of the collection.
Country Dog Gentlemen

Bay Area artist Roy De Forest
painted this fantasy of a universe
guarded by animals in 1972.
122  SAn FrAnCiSCO ArEA by ArEA
Exploring the San Francisco Museum

of Modern Art
SFMOMA is both an outstanding repository of modern and Georgia O’Keeffe, Rufino
contemporary art and a powerhouse of inspiration and Tamayo, and Joaquin Torres-
encouragement to the local art scene. With more than 30,000 Garcia. One of the museum’s
works of art in the museum’s permanent collection, its most powerful images is The
strengths lie in U.S. and Latin American modernism, Fauvism, Flower Carrier, a 1935 oil
painting by Mexican artist
Surrealism, American Abstract Expressionism, Minimalism Diego Rivera, who is celebrated
and post-Minimalism, Pop art, postwar German art, the art of for his murals (see p142).
California and contemporary art from around the globe. The Another exhibition area
2016 expansion has brought a notable addition: the 15,000 permanently shows works by
square-foot Pritzker Center for Photography, the largest space Jasper Johns, Robert
Rauschenberg, and Andy
dedicated to photography in any art museum in the country.
Warhol, among others, from
the Anderson Collection of
American Pop Art.
There is a good collection of
the European Modernists,
including notable paintings by
Jean Arp, Max Beckmann,
Constantin Brancusi, Georges
Braque, André Derain, Franz
Marc, and Pablo Picasso.
A large collection of works
by Swiss-born Paul Klee are
accommodated in an individual
gallery, with works by the
famous French painter of the
Fauvist school, Henri Matisse,
nearby on the second floor.
Henri Matisse’s Femme au
Chapeau (Woman with a Hat)
Women of Algiers (1955) by Pablo Picasso is perhaps the museum’s best
known painting.
Clyfford Still donated 28 of his
Paintings and Sculpture
paintings to the museum in 1975.
Included in the museum’s Other prominent North and
Architecture and Design
permanent holdings are over Latin American artists whose
8,000 paintings, sculptures, and works are displayed in the The Department of Archi-
works on paper. Paintings and museum collections include tecture and Design was
sculpture from 1900 through to Stuart Davis, Marsden Hartley, founded in 1983. Its function is
present day are in the second- Frida Kahlo, Wilfredo Lam, to procure and maintain a
floor galleries, while postwar collection of historical and
painting and sculpture are contemporary architectural
displayed on the fifth, sixth and drawings, models, and design
seventh floors. objects, and to examine and
American Abstract Express- illuminate their influences on
ionism is well represented at modern art. Its current holding
the museum by Philip Guston, of over 6,000 items focuses on
Willem de Kooning, Franz Kline,
Joan Mitchell, and Jackson
Pollock, whose Guardians of
the Secret is a masterpiece of
the genre.
Separate galleries have been
allocated for paintings by
Clyfford Still, who in the mid-
20th century served on the
faculty of the California School
of Fine Arts, now the San 92 Chaise (1992) by
Francisco Art Institute (see p88). Holt Hinshaw Pfau Jones
financial district and union square  123
architecture, furniture, product avant-garde photographers of

design, and graphic design. the 1920s, and European
and is widely considered one Surrealists of the 1930s.
of the most significant in the
United States. The new sixth-
floor galleries offer rotating
California Arts
exhibitions.
Among items on display On the second floor there are
in the permanent galleries dedicated to
collection are models, works by California artists.
drawings, prints, and These painters and
prototypes by well- sculptors have drawn their
known and emerging inspiration from local materials
designers. These Michael Jackson and Bubbles (1988) and scenes to create an
include the famous architect by Jeff Koons influential body of art that is
Bernard Maybeck, who was unique to the West Coast.
responsible for some of the Important Bay Area Figurative
Photography
most beautiful buildings in the painters include Elmer Bishoff,
Bay Area, including the Palace Drawing on its enormous Joan Brown and David Park, and
of Fine Arts (see p62). Other permanent collection of over there is a significant collection
noted San Francisco Bay Area 17,800 photographs, the by Richard Diebenkorn.
architects represented are museum presents exhibitions Collage and assemblage
Timothy Pflueger, William of the photographic arts in the artists exhibited from the
Wurster, William Turnbull and Pritzker Center for Photography, museum’s collection include
Willis Polk, known for his located on the third-floor. Bruce Connor, William T. Wiley
design of the glass and steel The collection of Modernist and Mission District resident
Halladie Building (see American masters includes Jess. Their use of everyday
p47), as well as the Berenice Abbott, Walker Evans, materials such as felt-tip pens,
California design team of Edward Steichen, and Alfred junkyard scrap and old
Charles and Ray Eames. Stieglitz, with special paintings has produced art with
The permanent attention paid to a distinctive West Coast flavor.
collection also includes California
works by Frank Lloyd photographers
Wright, Frank Gehry, including
Contemporary Art and
and Fumihiko Maki. Edward Weston,
Special Exhibitions
John Gutmann,
Graphite to Taste (1989) Imogen Cunningham The fourth floor features special
by Gail Fredell and Ansel Adams. exhibition galleries. An actively
It has the finest collection of changing schedule of contemp-
Japanese photography outside orary art exhibits supplements
of Japan, as well as extensive the museum’s historical
Media Arts
collections from Latin America collection and does much to
Established in 1988, the and Europe, including German encourage today’s art scene.
Department of Media Arts
collects, conserves, documents,
and exhibits art of the moving
image, including works in
video, film, projected image,
electronic arts, and time-based
media. The seventh-floor
galleries have state-of-the-art
equipment to present photo-
graphic, multi-image and
multimedia works, film, video,
and selected programs of
interactive media artwork.
The museum’s growing
permanent collection includes
pieces by accomplished artists
such as Nam June Paik, Don
Graham, Peter Campus, Joan
Jonas, Lynn Hershman Leeson,
Bill Viola, Doug Hall, and
Mary Lucier. Cave, Tsankawee, Mexico (1988), photographed by Linda Connor
CIVIC CENTER
The administrative center of San Francisco became mayor in 1911. He made the
has as its focal point the Civic Center Plaza. building of a new Civic Center a top
This includes some of the best architecture priority, and the funding for the project
in the city. Its grand government buildings was found in 1912. The buildings provide
and palatial performing arts complex are an outstanding example of the Beaux Arts
the source of a great deal of local pride. style (see p49), and in 1987 the whole area
The former City Hall was destroyed in the was declared an historic site. It is perhaps
earthquake of 1906 (see pp30–31), creating the most ambitious and elaborate city
an opportunity to build a civic center more center complex in the US and well worth
in keeping with San Francisco’s fast-emerging an extended visit. Fulton Street climbs
role as a major port. The challenge was taken gently to nearby Alamo Square, where there
up by “Sunny Jim” Rolph (see p31) after he are several fine late Victorian houses.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Theaters and Concert Halls Restaurants see pp222–8
2 Bill Graham Civic Auditorium 4 Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall 1 1300 on Fillmore
6 Veterans Building 5 War Memorial Opera House 2 Absinthe Brasserie & Bar
7 City Hall 8 Great American Music Hall 3 Ananda Fuara
q Cottage Row Museums and Galleries 4 AsiaSF
e Alamo Square 5 Dosa
1 Asian Art Museum
r University of San Francisco 6 Herbivore
3 San Francisco Arts
Shopping Area 7 Jardinière
Commission Gallery
8 Lers Ros Thai
w Hayes Valley Churches 9 Mifune
Modern Architecture 9 St. Mary’s Cathedral 10 NOPA
0 Japan Center 11 Saigon Sandwich Shop
12 Stacks
13 Tommy’s Joynt
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Visitors climbing up the steps of City Hall For keys to map symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Civic Center

San Francisco’s main public space is a
triumph of planning and design. Its
well-balanced Beaux Arts architecture
(see p49), with the impressive dome of City
Hall, is a tribute to San Francisco’s energy
in the years after the 1906 earthquake
(see pp30–31). Construction started with
the Civic Auditorium, completed in 1915 for
the Pan-Pacific Exposition (see p72). This
was followed by the City Hall, Library, and
War Memorial Arts complex.
the State Building, completed in 1986, was
designed by Skidmore, Owings and Merrill.
The building mirrors the curves of the
Davies Symphony Hall, one block away.
3 San Francisco art

Commission Gallery
is also here.
6 veterans Building t
Home to the Herbst Theater and r ee
various veterans’ associations. St
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5 . War memorial Opera house

The distinguished San Francisco Opera
and Ballet companies both perform in
this elegant spot.
4 louise m. Davies
Symphony hall
The San Francisco Symphony
Orchestra, founded in 1911, is
based here. Completed in 1981, to et
a design by Skidmore, Owings and re
St
Merrill, the hall has a grand eS
lush interior. ay
h
Key
Suggested route
CiviC Center  127
7 . city hall PACIFIC HEIGHTS

This building is the city’s most AND THE
MARINA
imposing structure, with a vast PRESIDIO
rotunda inside containing a
wealth of architectural detail.
CIVIC CENTER
the civic center

plaza is a formally HAIGHT ASHBURY
landscaped square AND THE MISSION
where political
protests are locator map
often held. See Street Finder maps 4–5
the Federal
Building houses
US government
offices, including
the post office.
h
To bus no. 5
yd
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Civic Center
Station
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United nations plaza

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commemorates the signing

st
of the United Nations

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Charter in 1945. There is
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t
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ve
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Gr
san Francisco new main

library, across from the
Asian Art Museum, combines
Beaux Arts and modern
architectural styles.
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2 Bill Graham
civic auditorium 1 . asian art museum
This hall was constructed in The building, designed by George Kelham, dates
1915 to meet the city’s need from 1917. It was once the Old Main Library, but
for a public meeting place. now houses the Asian Art Museum.
1Asian Art 3 San Francisco
Museum Arts Commission

200 Larkin St. Map 4 F5. Tel 581-3500. Gallery
@ 5, 19, 21, 31, 47, 49. v F, J, K, L, M, N, 401 Van Ness Ave. Map 4 F5. Tel 554-
T.  Civic Center. Open 10am–5pm 6080. @ 5, 19, 21, 47, 49. v J, K, L,
Tue–Sun (to 9pm Thu). Closed public M, N, T. Open 8am–8pm Mon–Fri. 7
hols. & except 1st Tue of month. ∑ sfartscommission.org/gallery
7 8 = - ∑ asianart.org
Located in the Veterans Building

The Asian Art Museum is Interior of San Francisco Art (see p129), this dynamic gallery
located on Civic Center Plaza Commission Gallery shows paintings, sculptures, and
across from City Hall in a multimedia works made by local
building that was the crown 2 Bill Graham artists. The gallery’s previous
jewel of the Beaux Arts
movement in San Francisco.
Civic Auditorium location is now View 155, an
annex gallery southeast of the
The former Main Library, built 99 Grove St. Map 4 F5. Tel 624-8900. main gallery at 155 Grove Street.
in 1917, underwent major @ 5, 7, 19, 21, 47, 49, 71. v J, K, L, M, Some photography exhibitions
renovation in 2001 to create the N, T.  Civic Center. Open for are on display at City Hall.
performances. ∑ billgraham
largest museum outside Asia
civicauditorium.com
devoted exclusively to Asian art.
The museum’s holdings
include more than 17,000 art Designed in Beaux Arts
objects spanning 6,000 years of style (see p49) by
history and representing cultures architect John Galen
and countries throughout Asia. Howard to form a major
Among the exhibits is a gilt part of the Panama-
bronze Buddha, one of the oldest Pacific Exposition (see
Chinese Buddhas in the world. pp32–3), San Francisco’s
There are also venues for perfor- Civic Auditorium was
mances and festivals, a library, a opened in 1915, and Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall
hands-on discovery center where since then has been
families can explore Asian art one of the city’s most 4 Louise M. Davies
and culture, and classrooms for
educational programs.
prominent performance
venues. It was inaugurated
Symphony Hall
The café’s beautiful outdoor by the French pianist and 201 Van Ness Ave. Map 4 F5. Tel 864-
terrace overlooks the Civic composer Camille Saint-Saens. 6000. @ 21, 47, 49. v J, K, L, M, N, T.
 Civic Center. 7 8
Center and Fulton Street mall. The building was completed
∑ sfsymphony.org
along with City Hall,
See Entertainment p252.
in the course of the
massive architectural
renaissance that Loved and loathed in equal
followed the disasters measure by the citizens of
of 1906 (see pp30–31). San Francisco, this curving,
It was built, together glass-fronted concert hall was
with the adjoining constructed in 1980 – the
Brooks Exhibit Hall, creation of architects Skidmore,
beneath the Civic Owings, and Merrill. The ultra-
Center Plaza. The Civic modern hall is named for the
Auditorium now serves prominent philanthropist who
as the city’s main con- donated $5 million of the $35
ference center, and has million construction cost. It is
the capacity to seat home to the San Francisco
7,000 people. In 1992 Symphony Orchestra and also
its name was changed welcomes many visiting artists.
in honor of Bill Graham The acoustics of the building
(see p131), the local were disappointing when it first
rock music impresario opened, but after many years of
who was a pivotal negotiations a new sound system
figure in both the was installed. The interior was
development and also redesigned, and the walls
promotion of the were resculptured to reflect
city’s trademark sound better. These measures
Grand staircase in the Asian Art Museum psychedelic sound. improved the acoustics.
CIVIC CENTER  129
dome are accessible to

the public.
The restored building is at
the center of the Civic Center
complex and is a magnificent
example of the Beaux Arts
style (see p49). There are
allegorical figures evoking
the city’s Gold Rush past in
the pediment above the
main Polk Street entrance.
This entrance leads into the
marble-floored Rotunda.
8 Great
Front entrance of War Memorial Opera House, built in 1932 American
5 War Memorial the site of the signing of Music Hall
Opera House the United Nations
Charter in 1945.
859 O’Farrell St. Map 4 F4.
Tel 885-0750. @ 2, 3, 19, 38,
301 Van Ness Ave. Map 4 F5. 47, 49.
Tel 621-6600. @ 5, 21, 47, 49. v J, K,
L, M, N, T.  Civic Center. 7 8 Call
ahead ∑ sfwmpac.org
7 City Hall Built in 1907 as a place
for bawdy comedy
400 Van Ness Ave. Map 4 F5.
Sign over Great shows, the Great
Tel 554-6139. @ 5, 8, 19,
Opened in 1932, the War 21, 26, 47, 49. v J, K, L, M, American Music Hall American Music Hall was
Memorial Opera House, designed N, T. Open 8am–5pm soon in use as a brothel.
by Arthur Brown, was dedicated Mon–Fri. 7 8 call 554- Since then, it has become an
to the memory of World War I 6023. ∑ sfciviccenter.org/visiting excellent performance space,
soldiers. In 1951 it was used for with a rich interior containing
the signing of the peace treaty City Hall, completed in 1915, tall marble columns and
between the US and Japan, just in time for the Panama- elaborate balconies, adorned
marking the formal end of Pacific Exposition (see pp32–3), with ornate gilt plasterwork.
World War II. The building is was designed by Arthur Brown The venue is intimate, stylish,
now home to the San Francisco when he was at the height of and known throughout the
Opera and San Francisco Ballet his career. The original US, and famous artists such
(see p252). building was completely as Carmen McCrae, B. B. King,
destroyed in the 1906 Duke Ellington, the Grateful
earthquake. Its Grand Dead, Van Morrison,
6 Veterans Building Baroque dome was and Tom Paxton have
modeled on St. played every kind
401 Van Ness Ave. Map 4 F5.
Peter’s Church of music here, from
Tel 621-6600; Herbst Theater 392-4400.
@ 5, 19, 21, 47, 49. v J, K, L, M, N, T. in Rome and blues, jazz, and
7 limited. 8 call 552-8338. is higher than folk to rock ’n’
∑ sfwmpac.org the US Capitol roll. The views
in Washington, here are good
Like its almost identical twin, DC. The upper from almost
the War Memorial Opera levels of the every table.
House, the Veterans Building
was designed by Arthur Brown
and built in 1932 to honor
World War I soldiers. It was
rededicated in 2015 after the
opening of a 3,000 sq ft art
gallery. In addition to displays
of historic weapons, there are
showcases of military
memorabilia. The building is
also home to the Herbst
Theater, a 928-seat concert hall.
Because of its good acoustics,
many classical music recitals The imposing façade of the Beaux Arts-style City Hall in the heart of the Civic Center
are held here. The theater was of San Francisco
five-tiered, 75-ft their lower-class status. The

(22-m) concrete Cottage Row houses were saved
pagoda, is the from destruction during the
remodeled Peace process of slum clearance in the
Pagoda Garden. 1960s. A program organized by
Taiko drummers Justin Herman awarded grants
and others perform to help people restore their
here at the Cherry existing houses, rather than
Blossom Festival replace them. All but one of
(see p50) each April. the houses have now been
Both sides of the restored, and they face a
The altar in St. Mary’s Cathedral Garden are lined small attractive city park.
with Japanese
restaurants, shops, and the eight-
9 St. Mary’s
screen AMC Kabuki (see p250).
Cathedral This area has been the heart
1111 Gough St. Map 4 E4. of the Japanese community for
Tel 567-2020. @ 2, 3, 31, 38. over 80 years. More authentic
Open 8:30am–4:30pm Mon–Fri, Japanese shops are on Post
9am–6:30pm Sat & Sun. 5 6:45am, Street, where there are twin steel
8am, 12:10pm Mon–Fri; 6:45am, 8am, sculptures by Ruth Asawa.
5:30pm Sat; 7:30am, 9am, 11am, 1pm
(in Spanish) Sun. ^ during services.
8 7 ∑ stmarycathedralsf.org q Cottage Row
Map 4 D4. @ 2, 3, 22, 38.
Situated at the top of Cathedral
Hill, the ultramodern St. Mary’s One of the few surviving
is the city’s principal Roman remnants of working-class
Catholic church and one of its Victorian San Francisco, this
most prominent landmarks. short stretch of flat-fronted Cottage Row
Designed by architect Pietro cottages was built in 1882, at
Belluschi and engineer Pier Luigi the end of the Pacific Heights w Hayes Valley
Nervi, it was completed in 1971. building boom. Unusual for San
Map 4 E5. @ 21, 22.
The four-part arching Francisco, the cottages share
paraboloid roof stands out dividing walls, like terraced Just west of City Hall, these few
like a white-sailed ship on the houses in Europe or on the East blocks of Hayes Street became
horizon. The 200-ft- (60-m-) Coast of America. Their utter one of San Francisco’s trendier
high concrete structure, which lack of ornament, and their shopping districts after US 101
supports a cross-shaped siting on what was a dark and highway was badly damaged
stained-glass ceiling, seems to crowded back alley, emphasize in the Loma Prieta earthquake
hover effortlessly over the 2,500- of 1989 (see p20).
seat nave. A sunburst canopy The road was then
made of aluminum rods torn down, having
sparkles above the plain previously cut Hayes
stone altar. Valley off from the
wealthy power
brokers and
0 Japan Center theatergoers of the
Post St and Buchanan St. Civic Center. A few
Map 4 E4. Tel 567-4573. @ 2, 3, 38. of the local cafés
Open 10am–8pm Mon–Sat, 11am– and restaurants, like
7pm Sun (restaurants open till later). Hayes Street Grill,
Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. had already mixed
∑ sfjapantown.org in with the Hayes
Street secondhand
The Japan Center was built in the furniture and thrift
1960s as part of a scheme to shops. The influx
revitalize the Fillmore District. of expensive art
Blocks of aging Victorian houses galleries, interior
were demolished and replaced design shops, and
by the Geary Expressway and the clothing boutiques
large Japan Center shopping has made the Hayes
complex. At the heart of the Valley area noticeably
complex, and centered upon a Japan Center by night more upscale.
CIVIC CENTER  131
e Alamo Square
Map 4 D5. @ 21, 22.
San Francisco’s most photo-

graphed row of colorful Victorian
houses lines the eastern side of
this sloping green square, which
is some 225 ft (68 m) above the
Civic Center, giving grand views
of City Hall backed by the
Financial District skyscrapers.
The square was laid out at the
same time as the pair of Pacific St. Ignatius Church on the University of San Francisco campus
Heights squares (see pp72–3),
but it developed later and much r University of the campus is the striking
more quickly, with speculators St. Ignatius Church, completed
building large numbers of San Francisco in 1914. Its buff-colored
nearly identical houses. 2130 Fulton St. Map 3 B5. twin towers are visible from
The “Six Sisters” Queen Tel 422-5555. @ 5, 21, 33, 43. all over the western half
Anne-style houses (see p77) ∑ usfca.edu of San Francisco, especially
built in 1895 at 710–20 Steiner when lit up at night. The
Street are good examples. They Founded in 1855 as St. Ignatius university campus and
appear on many San Francisco College, the University of residential neighborhood
postcards. So many grand old San Francisco (USF) is still that surrounds it occupy
Victorian houses line the streets a Jesuit-run institution, though land that historically formed
around Alamo Square that the classes are now coeducational San Francisco’s main
area has been declared an and non-denominational. cemetery district, on and
historic district. The landmark of around Lone Mountain.
The Sounds of 1960s

San Francisco
During the Flower Power years
of the late 1960s, and most
notably during the 1967
Summer of Love (see p34), young
people from all over the US
flocked to San Francisco. They
came not just to “turn on, tune
in and drop out,” but also to
listen to music. Bands such as
Janis Joplin’s Big Brother and the
Holding Company, Jefferson
Airplane, and the Grateful Dead
emerged out of a thriving music Hippies lounging on a psychedelic bus
scene. They were nurtured at it was taken over by rock
clubs like the Avalon Ballroom impresario Bill Graham, after
and the Fillmore Auditorium. whom the Civic Auditorium
(see p128) is named. Graham put
Premier Music Venues such unlikely pairs as Miles Davis
The Avalon Ballroom, now the and the Grateful Dead on the
Regency II theater on Van Ness same bill, and brought in big-
Avenue, was the first and name performers from Jimi
most significant rock venue. Hendrix to The Who. The
Run by Chet Helms and the Fillmore was damaged in the
Family Dog collective, the 1989 earthquake but reopened
Avalon pioneered the use in 1994.
of colorful psychedelic posters Bill Graham also opened the
by designers such as Stanley Winterland and the Fillmore
Mouse and Alton Kelly. East, and by the time he died
Fillmore Auditorium, facing in 1992 he became one of the
Janis Joplin (1943–70), hard-edged the Japan Center (see p130), most successful rock music
blues singer used to be a church hall. In 1965 promoters in the US.
HAIGHT ASHBURY
AND THE MISSION
To the north of Twin Peaks – two windswept center of San Francisco’s gay community.
hills rising 900 ft (274 m) above the city – Well-known for its wild hedonism in
lies Haight Ashbury. With its rows of the 1970s, the area is quieter these
beautiful late Victorian houses (see pp76–7), days, although its cafés and shops are
it is mostly inhabited by the wealthy middle still lively. The Mission District, farther
classes, although this is where thousands east still, was originally settled by
of hippies lived in the 1960s (see p131). Spanish monks (see p24) and is home
The Castro District, to the east, is the to many Hispanics.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings w Dolores Park 12 Lovejoy’s Tea Room
2 Haight Ashbury u Twin Peaks 13 Magnolia Gastropub & Brewery
3 (Richard) Spreckels Mansion i Vulcan Street Steps 14 Memphis Minnie’s BBQ Joint
5 Lower Haight Neighborhood Museums and Galleries 15 Mission Cheese
9 Castro Street 16 Mission Chinese Food
8 GLBT History Museum
q Dolores Street 17 The Monk’s Kettle
e Mission Cultural Center for the
t Noe Valley 18 Pancho Villa Taqueria
Latino Arts
y Clarke’s Folly 19 Pork Store Café
r Carnaval Mural
20 Plow
Churches Theaters 21 Range
0 Mission Dolores 22 Rhea’s Deli and Market
7 Castro Theatre
Landmarks 23 Rosamunde Sausage Grill
Restaurants see pp222–229 24 Schmidt’s
o Sutro Tower
1 Alembic 25 SoMa StrEat Food Park
Parks and Gardens 2 Amasia Hide’s Sushi Bar 26 Squat and Gobble
1 Golden Gate Park Panhandle 3 Axum Cafe 27 Sunflower
4 Buena Vista Park 4 El Castillito 28 Tartine Bakery
6 Corona Heights and Randall Museum 5 Cha Cha Cha 29 Thep Phanom Thai Cuisine
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7 La Corneta Taqueria 31 Zazie
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Giant stockinged legs sticking out of Piedmont Boutique (see p253) in Haight Ashbury For keys to map symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Haight Ashbury

Stretching from Buena Vista Park to the flat expanses
of Golden Gate Park, in the 1880s Haight Ashbury was
a place to escape to from the city center. It developed
into a residential area, but between the 1930s and
1960s it changed dramatically from middle-class
suburb to center of the “Flower Power” world, with a
free clinic to treat hippies. It is now one of the liveliest
and most unconventional places in San Francisco,
with an eclectic mix of people, excellent book and
record stores, and good cafés.
2 Haight Ashbury
In the 1960s, hippies congregated at
this major intersection, from which the
area takes its name.
Wasteland, at 1660 Haight

Street, is an anarchic used-
clothing, curio, and furniture
emporium housed in a colorful
painted Art Nouveau building. AS
Bargain hunters will find plenty
HB
to delight them in this

unconventional store.
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strip runs west H T S
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into the heart HA
of Golden
Gate Park.
To bus nos. 7, 33
Cha Cha Cha is one

of the liveliest places
to eat in San
Francisco, serving The Red Victorian Bed and Breakfast, a
Latin American food relic of the hippie 1960s, caters to a New
in a variety of small Age clientele with health food and rooms
dishes (see p225). with transcendental themes (see p214).
HAIGHT ASHBURY AND THE MISSION  135
No. 1220 Masonic

CIVIC CENTER
Avenue is one of
many ornate
Victorian mansions
built on a steep hill
to the south of HAIGHT ASHBURY
Haight Street. AND THE MISSION
locator Map
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4 . Buena Vista Park

Through its mass of twisting trees growing
closely together, this dramatic park offers
magnificent views over the city.
Key
To bus no. 37
Suggested route
1 Golden Gate Park reclamation of Golden

Panhandle Gate Park (see p148) and
the opening of a large
Map 9 C1. @ 5, 6, 21, 31, 43, 66, 71.
v N.
amusement park called
The Chutes, the area was
This one-block-wide, eight- rapidly built up in the
block-long stretch of parkland 1890s as a middle-class
forms the narrow “Panhandle” to suburb – hence the
the giant rectangular pan that is dozens of elaborate
Golden Gate Park (see pp144– Queen Anne-style houses
59). It was the first part of the (see p77) lining its streets.
park to be reclaimed from the The Haight survived the
sand dunes that rolled across 1906 earthquake and
west San Francisco, and its fire (see pp30–31), and
stately eucalyptus trees are experienced a brief
among the oldest and largest boom, followed by Mansion built for Richard Spreckels
in the city. The Panhandle’s a long period of decline.
winding carriage roads and After the streetcar tunnel Today, the Haight retains
bridle paths were first laid out in under Buena Vista Park was its anti-establishment
the 1870s, and the upper classes completed in 1928, the middle atmosphere, but there are
came here to walk and ride. classes began their exodus to problems of crime, drug abuse,
They built large mansions on the suburbs in the Sunset. The and homelessness. However,
the outskirts of the park; many area reached its lowest ebb in from the congenial cafés to the
can still be seen today. In 1906 the years after World War II. The secondhand clothing shops,
the Panhandle was a refuge for big Victorian houses were you will still find the aura of
families made homeless by the divided into apartments and the past here.
earthquake (see pp30–31). Today the low rents attracted a mixed
the old roads and paths are population. By the 1960s the
used regularly by large crowds Haight had become host to 3 (Richard)
of joggers and bicyclists. a bohemian community that Spreckels Mansion
The Panhandle is still was a hotbed of anarchy. A
737 Buena Vista West. Map 9 C2. @ 6,
remembered for its “Flower component of this “hippie scene” 37, 43, 66, 71. Closed to the public.
Power” heyday of the 1960s was the music of rock bands
(see p131), when bands gave such as the Grateful Dead, but This house should not be
impromptu concerts here. the area stayed quiet until 1967. confused with the larger and
Then the media-fueled “Summer grander Spreckels Mansion on
of Love” (see p131) brought some Washington Street (see p72). It
75,000 young people in search was, however, also built by the
of free love, music, and drugs, millionaire “Sugar King” Claus
and the area became the focus Spreckels, for his nephew
of a worldwide youth culture. Richard. The elaborate Queen
Anne-style house (see p77),
built in 1897, is a typical late-
Victorian Haight Ashbury
home. It was once a recording
studio, and later a guest-
house, but is now
in private hands.
Guests have
included the
Haight Ashbury and the Panhandle acerbic journalist and
ghost-story writer
Ambrose Bierce, and
2 Haight Ashbury the adventure writer
Jack London, who
Map 9 C1. @ 6, 33, 37, 43, 66, 71.
v N.
wrote White Fang
here in 1906.
Taking its name from the The mansion is
junction of two main streets, situated on a hill near
Haight and Ashbury, this Buena Vista Park.
district contains independent Rows of Victorian
bookstores, large Victorian houses, many of
houses, cafés, and hip clothing them well preserved
boutiques. Following the The Cha Cha Cha restaurant on Haight Street and some palatial,
HAIGHT ASHBURY AND THE mISSIoN  137
are nearby. One of these,

a block away at 1450 Masonic
Levi Strauss and his Jeans
Street, is an onion-domed First manufactured in San the city in the 1860s. The
house, one of the most Francisco in the days of the company’s story started in
unusual of the many eccentric Gold Rush (see pp26–7), denim 1853, when Levi Strauss left
mansions built in the Haight jeans have had a great impact New York to set up a branch
since the 1890s. on popular culture. One of the of his family’s cloth firm in
leading producers of jeans is San Francisco.
Levi Strauss & Co., founded in In the 1860s, though still
primarily a seller of cloth, he
4 Buena Vista Park pioneered the use of durable
Map 9 C1. @ 6, 37, 43, 66, 71. blue canvas to make workpants,
sold directly to miners. In the
Buena Vista Park rises steeply, 1870s his company began to
569 ft (18 m) above the use metal rivets to strengthen
geographical center of San stress points in the
Francisco. First landscaped in garments, and demand
1894, it is a pocket of land left increased. The company
to nature. A network of paths expanded, and early in the
winds up from Haight Street 20th century moved to 250
to the crest, where densely Valencia Street in the Mission
planted trees frame views of the District, where it remained
Bay Area. Many of the trails are until 2002. Levi’s jeans are now
overgrown and eroded, but produced and worn all over
there is a paved route up to the world, and the company
the summit from Buena Vista that was founded by Levi
Strauss is still owned by
Avenue. It is best to avoid the Two miners wearing Levi’s at the
his descendants.
park at night. Last Chance Mine in 1882
5 Lower Haight restaurants serving a bohemian area is safe during the day, but,
Neighborhood clientèle that were already in like Alamo Square, it can seem
business in the area. This quite threatening after dark.
Map 10 D1. @ 6, 22, 66, 71.
v K, L, M, N, T. combination has created one
of the most lively districts in
Halfway between City Hall and San Francisco. 6 Corona Heights
Haight Ashbury, and marking the As in nearby Alamo Square (see and Randall
southern border of the Fillmore p131), the Lower Haight holds Museum
District, the Lower Haight is an dozens of houses known as
area in transition. Unusual art “Victorians” (see pp76–7), built Map 9 D2. Tel 554-9600. @ 24, 37.
galleries and boutiques, from the 1850s to the early 1900s. Randall Museum Animal Room, 199
including the Used Rubber These include many picturesque Museum Way: Open 10am–5pm Tue–
Sat. Closed public hols. 7 limited.
USA shop, which sells clothes cottages such as the Nightingale
∑ randallmuseum.org
and accessories made entirely House at 201 Buchanan Street,
of recycled rubber, began to built in the 1880s. Corona Heights Park is a dusty
open here in the mid-1980s. But public housing projects and undeveloped rocky peak.
These were in addition to the from the 1950s have discouraged Clinging to its side is an unusual
inexpensive cafés, bars, and wholesale gentrification. The museum for children. The
Randall Museum Animal Room
has an extensive menagerie of
raccoons, owls, snakes, and
other animals. The emphasis of
the museum is on participation,
and there are many hands-on
exhibits and workshops. It is
currently closed for renovation
and has relocated to the Mission
Art Center (745 Treat Ave.) until
late 2016.
Corona Heights was gouged
out by brick-making operations
in the 19th century. It was never
planted with trees, so its bare
red-rock peak offers a panoramic
Looking across the Mission from Corona Heights view over the city and East Bay.
high-profile gay and lesbian

community. Focused on the
intersection of Castro Street and
18th Street, the self-proclaimed
“Gayest Four Corners of the
World” emerged as a
homosexual nexus during the
1970s. Gays of the Flower Power
generation moved into this
predominantly working-class
district and began restoring
Victorian houses and setting
up such businesses as the
bookstore A Different Light, at
The historic Castro Theatre 489 Castro Street. They also
opened such gay bars as the
7 Castro Theatre of the city’s vast queer past Twin Peaks on the corner of
through dynamic and surprising Castro Street and 17th Street.
429 Castro St. Map 10 D2. Tel 621-
6120. @ 24, 33, 35, 37. v F, K, L, M, T. exhibitions and programming. Unlike earlier bars, where
See Entertainment p250. Discover treasures from the lesbians and gays hid in dark
∑ castrotheatre.com archives of the GLBT Historical corners out of public view, the
Society that reflect the Twin Peaks installed large
Completed in 1922, this brightly fascinating stories of this windows. Though the many
lit neon marquee is a Castro vibrant community. shops and restaurants attract all
Street landmark. It is the most kinds of people, the Castro’s
sumptuous and best preserved openly homosexual identity has
of San Francisco’s neighborhood made it a place of pilgrimage
film palaces, and one of the first for gays and lesbians. It
commissions of the architect symbolizes for this minority
Timothy Pflueger. With its lavish, group a freedom not generally
Arabian Nights interior, found in cities elsewhere.
complete with a glorious In the 1970s, a man named
Wurlitzer organ that rises from Harvey Milk championed the
the floor between screenings, rights of the gay community in
it is well worth the price of the Castro district, earning the
admission. The ceiling of the title Mayor of Castro Street. He
auditorium is particularly went on to become the first
noteworthy: it is cast in plaster elected openly gay politician in
and resembles the interior of a GLBT History Museum California but was assassinated
large tent, with imitation on November 28, 1978. He and
swathes of material, rope, and Mayor George Moscone were
tassels. The theater seats 1,400 9 Castro Street killed by an ex-policeman,
and shows mainly revival whose lenient sentence
Map 10 D2. @ 24, 33, 35, 37. v F, K,
classics. It also hosts the Gay caused riots in the city. Milk is
L, M, T.
and Lesbian Film Festival, remembered by a memorial
held each June. The hilly neighborhood around plaque outside the station
Castro Street between Twin on Market Street, and by an
Peaks and the Mission District annual candlelit procession
8 GLBT History from Castro Street to City Hall.
is the heart of San Francisco’s
Museum
4127 18th St. Map 10 D3. Tel 621-
1107. @ 24, 33, 35, 37. v KT, F, L, M,
S. Open 11am–7pm Mon–Sat, noon–
5pm Sun. Closed Tue in fall and
winter months. ∑ glbthistory.org
This is the first full-scale, stand-

alone museum devoted to the
evolution of the liberation of
the gay, lesbian, bisexual, and
transgender community in the
United States. Though fairly
small, the museum packs a
punch, celebrating 100 years Rainbow flags lining Castro Street
HAIGHT ASHBURY AND THE mISSIoN  139
0 Mission Dolores (Lake of Our Lady of Sorrows). San Franciscans from the Gold
The building is modest by Rush days. A statue honoring the
16th St and Dolores St. Map 10 E2.
Tel 621-8203. @ 22. v J. Open 9am–
mission standards, but its 4 ft graves of 5,000 Indians, most of
4pm daily (May–Oct: to 5pm). (1.2 m) thick walls have survived whom died in the great measles
Closed Thanksgiving, the years without serious epidemics of 1806 and 1826,
Dec 25. & 7 = decay. Paintings by was stolen and returned in 1993.
∑ missiondolores.org American Indians adorn It stands on a pedestal reading,
the ceiling, which has “In Prayerful Memory of our
Preserved intact been preserved. Faithful Indians.” The famous
since it was completed There is a fine graveyard scene in Hitchcock’s
in 1791, Mission Baroque altar and Vertigo was filmed here in 1957.
Dolores is the oldest reredos, as well as a
building in the city and an display of historical
embodiment of San artifacts in the small
Francisco’s religious Spanish museum (see p41).
colonial roots (see pp24–5). Most services are
The mission was founded held in the basilica,
by a Franciscan friar, Father which was built
Junipero Serra, and is formally next to the original
known as the Mission of San mission in 1918.
Francisco de Asis. The name Figure of saint in The white-walled
Dolores reflects its proximity the Mission cemetery contains
to Laguna de los Dolores Dolores graves of prominent
The Statue of Father Junipero The ceramic mural was

Serra, founder of the mission, is a created by Guillermo Granizo,
copy of the work of local sculptor a native San Francisco artist.
Arthur Putnam. The painted and gilded
Museum and altarpiece was imported
display from Mexico in 1797.
The ceiling paintings are

based on original
Ohlone designs using
vegetable dyes.
Entrance for the

disabled
The mission cemetery

originally extended
across many streets.
The earliest wooden
grave markers have
disintegrated, but a more The front of
recent marker honors the mission
two Indians who were has four columns
baptized, married, and that support
buried here. niches for three
bells. The bells are
Entrance and inscribed with their
Statue of St. Rita gift shop names and dates.
streets, it is situated high on festival (see p50). This event,

a hill with a good view of the held annually in late spring,
city center. is the high spot of the year.
Dolores Park is popular during Guided tours of other murals,
the day with tennis players, some with political themes, are
sunbathers, and dog walkers, given by civic organizations.
but after dark can draw drug There is also an outdoor gallery
dealers. Above the park to the with murals in Balmy Alley (see
south and west, the streets rise pp142–3), near Treat and
so steeply that many turn into Harrison streets.
pedestrian-only stairways.
Here are some of the city’s
Sculpture commemorating soldiers in the finest Victorian houses,
Spanish–American War especially on Liberty Street.
q Dolores Street
e Mission
Map 10 E2. @ 22, 33, 48. v J.
Lined by lovingly maintained
Cultural Center
late Victorian houses (see pp76–7) for the Latino
and divided by an island of palm Arts
trees, Dolores Street is one of 2868 Mission St. Map 10 F4.
San Francisco’s most attractive Tel 821-1155; Box Office: 643-
public spaces. The broad straight 2785). @ 12, 14, 26, 27, 48, 49.
boulevard runs for 24 blocks, v J.  24th St. Gallery:
parallel to Mission Street, Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. 7
forming the western border of ∑ missionculturalcenter.org
the Mission District. It starts at
Market Street, where a statue This dynamic arts center
in honor of Spanish–American caters for the Latino
War soldiers is overwhelmed population of the Mission Noe Valley Ministry
by the hulking US Mint. District. It offers classes and
The Mission High School, with workshops and stages theatrical t Noe Valley
the characteristic white walls events and exhibitions. Chief
@ 24, 35, 48. v J.
and red-tile roof of Mission-style among these is the parade held
architecture, is on Dolores Street, in November to celebrate the Noe Valley is known as
as is the historic Mission Dolores Day of the Dead (see p52). “Noewhere Valley” by its
(see p139). The street ends near residents, who are intent on
prosperous Noe Valley. keeping it off the tourist map.
r Carnaval Mural It is a comfortable neighbor-
hood mainly inhabited by
24th St and South Van Ness Ave.
w Dolores Park Map 10 F4. @ 12, 14, 27, 48, 49, 67.
young professionals. Named
v J.  24th St. after its original land-grant
Map 10 E3. @ 22, 33. v J.
owner, José Noe, the last
Originally the site of the city’s One of the many brightly alcalde (mayor) of Mexican
main Jewish cemetery, Dolores painted murals to be seen on Yerba Buena, the area was
Park transformed in 1905 into walls in the Mission District, the first developed in the 1880s
one of the Mission District’s few Carnaval Mural celebrates the following the completion of a
large open spaces. Bounded by diverse people who come cable-car line over the steep
Dolores, Church, 18th, and 20th together for the Carnaval Castro Street hill. Like many
other areas of San
Francisco, this once
working-class district
underwent wholesale
gentrification in the
1970s, resulting in
today’s engaging mix
of boutiques, bars, and
restaurants. The Noe
Valley Ministry, at 1021
Sanchez Street, is a late
1880s Presbyterian
church in the “Stick
Detail from the Carnaval Mural Style” (see p77), with
haight ashbury and the mission  141
emphasis on vertical lines.

It was converted into a
community center in the 1970s.
y Clarke’s Folly
250 Douglass St. Map 10 D3. @ 33,
35, 37. Closed to the public.
This resplendent white

manor house was originally
surrounded by extensive
grounds. It was built in 1892
by Alfred Clarke, known as
Nobby, who worked in the
San Francisco Police Department
at the time of the Committee
of Vigilance. The house is
said to have cost $100,000, The city and Twin Peaks Boulevard, as seen from the top of Twin Peaks
a huge sum in the 1890s.
Now divided into private steep footpath to the very top rural houses climbing between
apartments, its turrets and can leave the crowds behind Ord Street and Levant Street.
other features make it an and get a 360° view. The Like the Filbert Steps on
evocative example of Victorian- residential districts on the Telegraph Hill (see pp92–3),
era domestic architecture. slopes lower down have however, Vulcan Steps does feel
curving streets that wind light years away from the busy
around the contours of the streets of the Castro District
u Twin Peaks slopes, rather than the formal below. The small vegetable and
grid that is more common in flower gardens of the houses
Map 9 C4. @ 33, 36, 37.
San Francisco. spill out and soften the edges
These two hills were first known of the steps, and a canopy of
in Spanish as El Pecho de la pines muffles the city sounds.
Chola, “the Bosom of the Indian i Vulcan Street There are grand views of the
Girl.” At the top there is an area Steps Mission District and beyond.
of parkland with steep and
Vulcan St. Map 9 C2. @ 37.
grassy slopes, from which you
can enjoy incomparable views Apart from a tiny figure of o Sutro Tower
of the whole of San Francisco. Spock standing on a mailbox,
Map 9 B3. @ 36, 37. Closed to
Twin Peaks Boulevard circles there is no connection between
the public.
both hills near their summits, the popular television program
and there is a parking and Star Trek and this block of almost Marking the skyline like an
viewing point from which invading robot, Sutro Tower
to look out over the city. is 970 ft (290 m) high. It was
Those who are named after local landowner
prepared to and philanthropist Adolph
climb up the Sutro, and it carries antennae
for the signals of most of the
city’s TV and radio stations.
Built in 1973, it is still much
used, despite the rise of cable
networks. The tower is visible
from all over the Bay Area, and
sometimes seems to float above
the summer fogs that roll in
from the sea. On the north side
of the tower there are dense
eucalyptus groves, first planted
in the 1880s by Adolph Sutro.
They drop down to the medical
center campus of the University
of California San Francisco
(UCSF), one of the most highly
rated teaching hospitals in the
Nobby Clarke’s Folly United States.
San Francisco’s Murals

San Francisco is proud of its reputation as a
culturally rich and cosmopolitan city, qualities
evident in the vivid elaborate murals that decorate
walls and fences in several areas of the city. Many
were painted in the 1930s, and many more in the
1970s, with some appearing spontaneously while
others were commissioned. One of the best is the
Carnaval Mural on 24th Street in the Mission District
(see p140); further examples are shown here.
503 Law Office at Dolores and 18th streets
Past and Present

Some of the best examples of San Francisco’s historical mural art can
be found inside Coit Tower, where a series of panels, funded during
the Great Depression of the 1930s by President Roosevelt’s
New Deal program, is typical of the period. Many local
artists participated in creating the work, and themes
include the struggles of the working class and the rich
resources of California. The city has since been decorated
with a number of modern murals, most notably by the
Precita Eyes Mural Arts Studio.
Detail from Coit Tower mural focuses
on California’s rich resources
Coit Tower mural

showing life during
the Depression years
Precita Eyes Mural Arts Studio

is a community-based
organization that seeks to
promote the mural arts through
collaborative projects. They also
sponsor new murals by Balloon
established artists and run lively Mosaic mural (2007) by Precita Eyes, Journey,
mural tours around San Francisco. Hillcrest school Precita Eyes
This mural was designed and painted by AYPAL (Asian Pacific Islander Youth Stop the Violence at
Promoting Advocacy and Leadership) students in 2007, in association with 1212 Broadway
Precita Eyes. The organization runs a number of community and youth #400, Oakland
workshops, which produce between 15 and 30 new murals every year.
Visitors can see examples of these throughout the Bay Area.
HAIGHT ASHBURY AND THE MISSION  143
Life Today
Life in the modern metropolis is one Golden Gate Bridge
of the major themes of mural art in
San Francisco, as much now as it was
in the 1930s. In the Mission District
particularly, every aspect of daily life Palace of
is illustrated on the walls of banks, Fine Arts
schools, and restaurants, with lively
scenes of the family, community,
political activity, and people at work
and play. The Mission District Cable car
contains around 200 murals, many
painted in the 1970s, as part of a city
program that paid young people to BART
create works of art in public places.
The San Francisco Arts Commission
continues to foster this art form.
This Balmy Alley mural is a view of the city as
tourists see it. The alley, in the Mission District, is
Tourists decorated with numerous vivid murals, first painted
by local children, artists, and community workers in
the 1970s. The works are now a major attraction.
The Learning Wall, Franklin St,

depicts education and art Positively Fourth Street, a weathered mural at Fort Mason
The Multicultural City

San Francisco’s heritage of Mexican American American Indian Where to Find
diversity and tolerance comes dancer drummer the Murals
alive in the murals that enliven
its ethnic neighborhoods. In
Chinatown, Chinese-American Caucasian bass
artists evoke memories of player
the “old country.” The African
Mission District is filled with American
art, some of it politically maracas player
inspired, celebrating the
struggles and achievements
of its Mexican and Latin
American population.
Balmy Alley. Map 11 A5

Clarion Alley. Map 10 F2
Coit Tower pp92–3
Dolores and 18th St. Map 10 E3
Fort Mason pp74–5
Franklin Street. Map 4 E1
Oakland p166
Park Branch Library
1833 Page St. Map 9 B1
Precita Eyes Mural Arts Studio
Multicultural San Francisco
348 Precita Ave. Map 10 F5
Mural in Washington Street is celebrated at Park Branch
Washington Street. Map 11 A2
encapsulating life in China Library in Haight Ashbury.
GOLDEN GATE PARK

AND LAND’S END
Lying to the south of the Richmond District is of the park are meandering paths, sports
the spectacular Golden Gate Park, a master facilities ranging from archery to golf, and
piece of landscape gardening, created in the three major museums. More parklands lie
1890s out of a sandy wasteland. Little grows to the north and west of the Richmond
here by chance, and trees have been planted District, linked by the Coastal Trail. This is
where they will best deflect the prevailing where rugged Land’s End, the scene of so
winds. All shrubs and bushes are carefully many shipwrecks, meets the sea. Nearby
chosen to ensure there is color at every Lincoln Park, with its manicured golf course,
season. Among the many attractions makes a dramatic contrast.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries
2 California Academy of Sciences
pp152–3
4 de Young Museum
y Legion of Honor
maps 1, 3 & 7–9
Parks and Gardens
1 Shakespeare Garden
3 Japanese Tea Garden
6 Children’s Playground
8 Conservatory of Flowers
9 Strybing Arboretum
0 Stow Lake
EL C R
q Polo Fields AM
IN O M A
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see pp224–5
STREET
BALBOA
1 Beach Chalet Brewery
AV E N U E
AV E N U E
LA
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Street-by-Street: Golden Gate Park

Golden Gate Park is one of the largest urban parks in the world. It
stretches from the Pacific Ocean to the center of San Francisco,
forming an oasis of greenery and calm in which to escape from the
bustle of city life. Within the park an amazing number of activities
are possible, both sporting and cultural. The landscaped area
around the Music Concourse, with its fountains, plane trees, and
benches, is the most popular and developed section. Here you can
enjoy free Sunday concerts at the Spreckels Temple of Music. Two
museums stand on either side of the Concourse, and the Japanese
and Shakespeare gardens are in walking distance.
4 . de Young Museum
This state-of-the-art, landmark
museum showcases collections
from around the world. Exhibits
include this mahogany chest, made
in Philadelphia in 1780.
The Great Buddha, nearly

11 ft (3 m) high, is probably
the largest statue of its kind
outside Asia.
A
E
T
A
R
A
W
A
I
G
A
H
3 Japanese Tea Garden

This exquisite garden, with its well-
tended plants, is one of the most
attractive parts of the park.
The bust of Verdi

reflects the city’s
passion for opera.
M
A
R
T
I N
L
The Spreckels Temple of U
T
Music is an ornate band shell, H
E
R
the site for free Sunday K
summer concerts since 1899. I N
G
D
R
I V
The bridge in the Japanese Tea E
Garden is known as the Moon
Bridge. It arches steeply, and its
0 meters 80
reflection in the water below
forms a perfect circle. 0 yards 80
The bust of Miguel de Cervantes,

the Spanish author, was sculpted by PACiFiC
Jo Mora. He is depicted with his two OCeAn
fictional creations, Don Quixote and PReSiDiO

Sancho Panza.
GOLDen GATe PARK

AnD LAnD’S enD
Locator Map
The statue of the Apple Cider

Press, by sculptor Thomas
Shields-Clarke, is one of the
few monuments to survive
from the California Midwinter
Fair of 1894.
The John McLaren

Rhododendron Dell is planted in
memory of the superintendent (see
p148) of Golden Gate Park.
E
V
I
R
D
N
E
D
R
A
G
2. California Academy
of Sciences
This complex combines an
aquarium, a planetarium, a museum,
and a research facility (see pp152–3).
The Music Concourse, a formally

landscaped area with fountains and
benches, is where the Golden Gate Park
Band performs on Sundays (Apr–Oct).
1 Shakespeare
Garden
This tiny garden holds
more than 150 species
of plants, all mentioned
KEY
in Shakespeare’s poetry
Suggested route or plays.
The Creation of Golden Gate Park

As San Francisco prospered and matured in the 1860s, its
citizens demanded the same amenities as other great
cities. Prominent among these was a large city park, for
which they petitioned in 1865. New York had just finished
building its trendsetting Central Park, created largely by
landscape designer Frederick Law Olmsted. San Francisco’s
mayor, HP Coon, sought Olmsted’s advice on a piece of
land that the city had recently secured for a park. This vast,
undeveloped wasteland to the west of the city by the
John McLaren
Pacific Ocean was known as the “Outside Lands.”
He also imported exotic plants
Reclaiming the Land from around the world. These
The city planners turned to a thrived in his care, despite
surveyor and engineer named the poor soil and foggy
William Hammond Hall. He climate of San Francisco.
had already achieved some McLaren devoted his whole
success in dune reclamation life to the park, personally
in the Outside Lands, and in fighting the developers who
1870 he applied his methods threatened encroachment.
to Golden Gate Park. Hall was He died at the age of 93,
appointed the park’s first after 53 years in office.
superintendent in 1871. He
started work at the east end, Cyclists in Golden Gate Park The Changing Park
laying out meandering roads The park still reflects the
and trying to create a was repeatedly cut. In 1876 Hall vision of McLaren and Hall,
seemingly natural landscape. was falsely accused of corruption but contrary to their plans,
The developing park soon and resigned in protest. The park the park today is scattered
proved popular. Families fell into a period of decline, but with buildings, and McLaren’s
came to picnic and after a decade of decay, Hall was most prominent defeat
young dandies raced asked to resume the task of became a popular attraction.
their carriages. managing it. The remarkable In what is now the Music
man he chose as super Concourse, the California
The Plan Falters intendent in 1890 was a Midwinter Fair opened in
Despite the popularity Scotsman named John 1894, despite his protests.
of the park, it was nearly McLaren, who agreed with Urban encroachment contin
prevented from Hall that a park should be a ued to press upon the park in
reaching maturity by natural environment. He the 20th century, but for most
public corruption. planted thousands of trees, San Franciscans the park
Throughout the 1870s bulbs, flowers, and shrubs, remains what it was intended
city officials siphoned off chosen so blooms would to be – a place in which to
funds and the budget appear each month. escape from city life.
1894 California Midwinter Fair

4 de Young
6 Children’s
Museum Playground
50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, Golden
Kezar Drive, near First Ave. Map 9 A1.
Gate Park. Map 8 F2. Tel 750-3600.
@ 5, 71. v N. No adults allowed
@ 5, 21, 44. v N. Open 9:30am–
unless accompanied by children.
5:15pm Tue–Sun (Apr–Nov: to 8:45pm
Fri). Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
& (free first Tue of month). 7 This is the oldest public
∑ deyoung.famsf.org children’s playground in the
United States, and it set the
Founded in 1895, the de Young style for many later ones.
Museum houses one of the city’s In 1978 it was redesigned with
finest art collections. In 1989 sandboxes, swings, sprawling
the building was too damaged slides, and a climbing “fortress.”
by an earthquake to be saved. On the Herschell-Spillman
However, an exciting state-of- merry-go-round, housed in a
Plaques in the Shakespeare Garden the-art facility opened in 2005. Greek-inspired structure that
The museum now contains a dates from 1892, children ride
broad range of American art, on brightly painted beasts.
1 Shakespeare with more than 1,000 paintings
Garden on view, as well as extensive
Music Concourse, Golden Gate Park.
pre-Columbian-American,
Map 8 F2. @ 44. African, and Oceanic works.
Gardeners here have tried

to cultivate all the plants 5 McLaren Lodge
mentioned in William Shake- Nr junction of Stanyan St and Fell St
speare’s works. The relevant on the park’s east side. Map 9 B1.
quotes are written on plaques Tel 831-2700. Open 8am–5pm Mon–
set in a wall at the back of Fri. Closed major holidays. @ 7, 21.
the garden.
This sandstone villa, designed
by Edward Swain, was built in
2 California 1896. As superintendent of the
Academy of park, John McLaren lived here
with his family until his death in
Sciences 1943. His portrait hangs on the Inside the Columbarium
See pp152–3. wall, and every December the
cypress tree outside is lit with 7 Columbarium
colored lights in his memory.
3Japanese Tea The lodge is now a park office 1 Loraine Court. Map 3 B5. Tel 752-
Garden that also dispenses maps 7891. @ 33, 38. Open 9am–5pm
and information. Mon–Fri, 10am–3pm Sat & Sun.
Music Concourse, Golden Gate Park. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
Map 8 F2. Tel 752-4227. @ 44. 7 ground floor only.
Open 9am–6pm daily (Nov–Feb:
to 4:45pm). & - =
∑ japaneseteagardensf.com The San Francisco Columbarium
is the sole survivor of the old
Established by the art dealer Lone Mountain Cemetery, which
George Turner Marsh for the once covered sizable tracts of
California Midwinter Fair of 1894 the Richmond District. Most of
(see p148), this garden is a the remains were disinterred
popular attraction. The best and moved to Colma in 1914.
time to visit is when the cherry This Neo-Classical rotunda
trees bloom in April. Paths wind houses the remains of 6,000
through the carefully manicured people in elaborate decorated
Japanese trees, shrubs, and urns. Unused for several decades,
flowers. The steeply arched Moon it was rescued and restored by
Bridge forms a dramatic circular the Neptune Society in 1979. The
reflection in the pond below. ornate, bright interior under the
The largest bronze Buddha to be dome has lovely stained-glass
found outside Asia, which was windows. The narrow passages
cast in Japan in 1790, is seated encircling the dome are
at the top of the garden stairs. Gateway in the Japanese Tea Garden remarkable for their acoustics.
Golden Gate Bridge, as seen from Lincoln Park
2 California Academy of Sciences

The California Academy of Sciences has been
located in Golden Gate Park since 1916, settling
into a new building in late 2008. It houses the
Steinhart Aquarium, Morrison Planetarium, and the
Kimball Natural History Museum, and combines
innovative green architecture with flexible
exhibition spaces. A lovely piazza is at the heart of
the building. Filled with native plant species, the
2.5-acre (1-ha) living roof, which can be seen from
the rooftop deck, is designed to make the museum
Discovery Tidepool
blend in with the surrounding parkland. Located in the lower level, this exhibit allows
visitors to touch sea creatures that live in the
Museum Guide local coast’s rock pools.
Steinhart Aquarium displays are spread
throughout the museum, but most of
The Swamp
the tanks can be found in the lower level Philippine Coral Reef Tank
beneath the Piazza. An auditorium (Lower Level)
above the café hosts traveling exhibits
as well as special performances and Sharks and Rays
programs. The back of the building holds (Lower Level)
the museum’s collection of over 28
million scientific specimens along with
staff offices and research laboratories.
Planetarium
Visitors leave planet Earth behind as they fly
through space and time inside the world’s
largest all-digital planetarium.
Key to Floor Plan

African Hall
Kimball Natural History Museum
Morrison Planetarium
Rainforests of the World
Building Green
Steinhart Aquarium
Science in Action African Hall
Islands of Evolution
Preserved animals from
Africa’s jungles and
Early Explorers Cove savannas are displayed
Non-exhibition space here, in lifelike dioramas.
California Coast Tank ViSiToRS’ CheCkliST

Critters that live in the cold
waters of California, such as this Practical Information
hermit crab, can be found in this 55 Music Concourse Dr.
section on the lower level. Map 8 F2.
Tel 379-8000.
open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat,
11am–5pm Sun.
Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
7=8-
Piazza (more Steinhart ∑ calacademy.org
Aquarium exhibits one
floor below) Transport
@ 5, 21, 44. v N.
. Steinhart Aquarium
A collection of the world’s
deepest living coral reef
display, a two-story
Swamp, Discovery
Tidepool, and
hundreds of “jewel”
tanks showcase the
stunning diversity
of aquatic life.
Entrance
Level 1
Tyrannosaurus Rex
Skeleton
This gigantic
predator was the most
powerful carnivore ever
to walk the earth.
. Rainforests of the World

This four-story exhibit offers a vertical
journey through four different
rainforest habitats. Free flying
butterflies and birds, snakes,
and lizards live in this exhibit.
the mountains of Central

America. Surprisingly, all these
gardens thrive in the California
fogs. The Arboretum has a
shop, selling seeds and books,
and it also houses the Helen
Crocker Russell Library of
Horticulture, which is open to
the public. A flower show is
held in the summer.
0 Stow Lake
Stow Lake Drive, Golden Gate Park.
Map 8 E2. @ 28, 29, 44. Open
summer: 10am–5pm Mon–Thu,
10am–6pm Fri & Sat; fall and winter:
10am–4pm daily. - Boat rental: 386-
2531. ∑ stowlakeboathouse.com
This artificial lake created in 1895

encircles Strawberry Hill such that
the summit of the hill now forms
an island, linked to the mainland
by two stone-clad bridges. Stow
Lake’s circular stream is ideal for
rowing laps from the boathouse,
though leisurely drifting seems
more appropriate. The Chinese
moon-watching pavilion on the
Glass-house at the Conservatory of Flowers island’s shore was a gift from San
Francisco’s sister city Taipei, in
8 Conservatory of are Mexican, African, South Taiwan. The red and green
American, and Australian pavilion was shipped to San
Flowers gardens, and one devoted to Francisco in 6,000 pieces and
John F. Kennedy Drive, Golden Gate native California plants. then assembled on the island.
Park. Map 9 A1. Tel 831-2090. @ 5, 33, Well worth a visit is the The millionaire Collis P.
44. v N. Open 10am–4:30pm Tue– enchanting Moon-Viewing Huntington (see p104) donated
Sun. & (free 1st Tue of the month.) Garden. It exhibits East Asian the money to create the reservoir
7 ∑ conservatoryofflowers.org plants in a setting that, unlike and the waterfall that cascades
that of the Japanese Tea Garden into Stow Lake and is one of the
This ornate glasshouse was the (see p148–9), is naturalistic rather park’s most attractive features.
oldest building in Golden Gate than formal. Both
Park. A jungle of orchids, ferns, medicinal and culinary
and palms thrived here but a plants grow in the
hurricane hit the city in Garden of Fragrance,
December 1995, and it was which is designed for
largely destroyed. A campaign blind plant-lovers. Here
for its repair was launched, and the emphasis is on the
it reopened in 2003. senses of taste, touch,
and smell, and the
plants are identified in
9 Strybing
Braille. Another area is
Arboretum planted with indigenous
9th Ave at Lincoln Way, Golden California redwood
Gate Park. Map 8 F2. Tel 661-1316. trees, with a small
@ 44, 71. v N. Open 7:30–6pm stream winding
daily (to 5pm fall and winter months). through. This re-creates
7 8 1:30pm daily. = the flora and
∑ sfbotanicalgarden.org atmosphere of a
northern California
On display are 7,500 species of coastal forest. There is
plants, trees, and shrubs from also a New World Cloud
many different countries. There Forest, with flora from Moon-watching pavilion on Stow Lake
companion, the Murphy

Windmill, was erected in the
park’s southwest corner in 1905.
The garden was named after
the Dutch Queen Wilhelmina,
and tulip bulbs are donated
each year by the Dutch Bulb
Growers’ Association.
r Ocean Beach
Map 7 A1–5. @ 5, 18, 31, 38, 71.
v L, N.
Most of San Francisco’s western

boundary is defined by this
broad sweep of sand. Though
Queen Wilhelmina Tulip Garden and the Dutch Windmill sublime when viewed from Cliff
House or Sutro Heights, the
q Polo Fields William Cody, alias “Buffalo Bill,” beach is dangerous for
John F. Kennedy Drive, Golden Gate traded one of his bulls for one swimming because of its icy
Park. Map 7 C2. @ 5, 29. from the Golden Gate Park herd. waters and a strong undertow.
Both parties thought that they Surfers in wet suits are a
You are increasingly likely to see had rid themselves of an common sight, but there is
joggers rather than polo ponies aggressive beast, but Cody’s often a stiff wind, or fog. On rare
using the Polo Fields stadium in newly purchased bull jumped hot days, it is also a popular spot
the more open western half of a high fence once back at his for sunbathers and picnickers.
Golden Gate Park. Horses, on encampment and escaped.
which to explore the park’s According to one newspaper of
equestrian trails and the Bercut the day, the San Francisco Call, t Seal Rocks
Equitation Field, are available by it took a total of 80 men to
Map 7 A1. Not accessible to visitors.
the hour at the adjacent riding recapture it.
View from Ocean Beach, Cliff House,
stables. For anglers, there is a or Sutro Heights Park. @ 18, 38.
fly-casting pool nearby.
To the east of the stadium, in e Queen Bring binoculars to watch the sea
the green expanse of Old
Speedway Meadows, many
Wilhelmina Tulip lions and birds in their natural
setting. At night, from the beach
celebrations were held during Garden or Cliff House promenade, the
the late 1960s, including some Map 7 A2. @ 5, 18. Windmill 7 barking of the sea lions is both
notable rock concerts. The reassuring and eerie, especially
Grateful Dead and Jefferson The Dutch windmill was built when it is foggy. On a clear day
Airplane, among others, played near the northwest corner of you can see the Farallon Islands
here. Here, in the spring of 1967, Golden Gate Park in 1903. Its 32 miles (51 km) off the coast.
thousands attended a huge original purpose was to pump These are also inhabited by sea
“Be-in,” one of many events that water from an underground lions and contain a rookery that
led to the “Summer of Love” source for irrigating the park, has been protected by the state
(see p34). but now it is no longer in use. Its since 1907.
w Buffalo Paddock
John F. Kennedy Drive, Golden Gate
Park. Map 7 C2. @ 5, 29.
The shaggy buffalo that graze in

this paddock are the largest of
North American land animals.
With its short horns and
humped back, the buffalo is the
symbol of the American plains
and is more properly known as
the American bison. This
paddock was opened in 1892, at
a time when the buffalo was on
the verge of extinction. In 1902 Looking out toward Seal Rocks from Ocean Beach
Bridge at the Japanese Tea Garden in the Golden Gate Park

y Legion of Honor . The Thinker

Inspired by the Palais de la Légion d’Honneur in Paris, This original bronze
Alma de Bretteville Spreckels built this museum in the casting of Rodin’s
Le Penseur (1904) is
1920s to promote French art in California and to in the colonnaded
commemorate the state’s casualties in World War I. Court of Honor.
Designed by the architect George Applegarth, it
contains European art from the last eight centuries,
with paintings by Monet, Rubens, and Rembrandt, as
well as over 70 sculptures by Rodin. The Achenbach
Foundation, a famous collection of graphic works, is
also part of the gallery.
. Waterlilies
Claude Monet’s famous work
(c.1914–17) is one of a series
depicting his lily pond.
Florence Gould
Theater
St. Wenceslaus Stairs down

Figurine, made around from first floor
1732, after a model by
Johann Gottlieb Kirchner.
Key to Floor Plan
Gallery Guide Permanent displays
The museum’s permanent collection is Achenbach Foundation Library
displayed in 19 galleries on the first floor. Porcelain gallery
Beginning at the left of the entrance, works
Theater storage
are arranged chronologically from the
medieval period to the 20th century. Temporary displays
Current exhibitions are on the lower level. Non-exhibition space
Lincoln Park, 100 34th Ave
(at Clement St). Map 1 B5.
Tel 750-3600. Open
9:30am–5:15pm Tue–Sun.
Appointment needed to see
Achenbach Collection, phone for
more information. Closed
Thanksgiving, 25 Dec. & (free
first Tuesday of the month).
^ 7 8 Lectures, films. - =
∑ legionofhonor.famsf.org
Transport
@ 1, 18, 38, 38L.
Lincoln Park Golf Course with views of the Golden Gate Bridge
u Lincoln Park o Cliff House

Map 1 B5. @ 18. 1090 Point Lobos. Map 7 A1.
Tel 386-3330 (Visitor Center). @ 18,
This splendid park, located 38. Open daily. Camera Obscura:
above the Golden Gate Park, Tel 750-0415. Open 11am–5pm daily.
is the setting for the Legion of & 7 = 0 ∑ cliffhouse.com
Honor. The land was originally ∑ giantcamera.com
allocated to Golden Gate
Cemetery, where graves were Built in 1909, the present
segregated according to the building, which was renovated
nationality of their occupants. in 2004, is the third on this site.
When these graves were Its predecessor, an elaborate
cleared in the first decade of eight-story Gothic structure
Old Woman the 20th century, the park was that burned down in 1907,
Georges de la Tour established and landscaped was built by the flamboyant
painted this study by John McLaren (see p148). entrepreneur Adolph Sutro.
in about 1618. The park now boasts an His estate on the hill over-
18-hole golf course and scenic looking Cliff House is now
walks. City views from the Sutro Heights Park. There are
hilltop course are superb. several restaurants on the upper
Entrance levels, live jazz on Friday nights,
and three observation decks
i Land’s End with panoramic views. A
Map 1 B5. @ 18, 38. camera obscura is located
on the lower level.
A rugged seascape of rock, cliff,
and matted cypress woods,
Land’s End is the wildest part of
San Francisco. It is reached by
foot along the Coastal Trail,
which can be accessed by stairs
from the Legion of Honor, or
from the Point Lobos parking
area near Sutro Heights Park.
The Coastal Trail is safe, ending
in a spectacular viewing point
overlooking the Golden Gate.
Do not leave the trail. Those
who do risk being stranded by
incoming tides or swept away
The Impresario by high waves. Call the National
In this portrait (c.1877), artist Parks Service Visitors Center
Edgar Degas emphasizes the (tel: 556-8642) for tide infor-
subject’s size by making him mation. Mile Rock Lighthouse The cliffs of Land’s End and Mile Rock
appear too large for the frame. can be seen offshore from here. Lighthouse offshore
FARTHER AFIELD
San Francisco is the smallest in size of retained their village atmosphere,
the nine counties that encircle the bay. and the county is the perfect escape
The settlements that were once summer for visitors who want an afternoon
retreats are today sprawling suburbs or away from the metropolis. In the
cities in their own right. To the north East Bay, the most popular
of Golden Gate Bridge, Marin County destinations are Oakland’s museum
has a wild, windswept coastline, forests and harbor, and Berkeley’s gardens
of redwoods, and Mount Tamalpais, and famous university. To the south,
which offers magnificent views of the San Francisco Zoo has plenty to
Bay Area. Marin’s settlements have entertain younger sightseers.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries s Jack London Square
e Lawrence Hall of Science g Oakland Chinatown
y Magnes Collection of Jewish Art Historic Streets and Buildings
and Life
w University of California at Berkeley
d Oakland Museum of California
u Claremont Resort and Spa
pp168–9
p Bay Bridge
Parks and Gardens f Old Oakland
1 San Francisco Zoo and Gardens Historic Towns
4 Muir Woods and Beach
6 Sausalito Key
5 Mount Tamalpais
7 Tiburon
8 Angel Island Main sightseeing areas
9 Tilden Park Lakes
Urban areas
r University Botanical Garden a Lake Merritt
Freeway
Churches and Temples Beaches
Major road
o Mormon Temple 2 Point Reyes National Seashore
Minor road
Shops, Markets, and 3 Stinson Beach
Restaurants
0 Fourth Street
q Gourmet Ghetto
t Telegraph Avenue 0 kilometers 10
i Rockridge
0 miles 10
Mendocino Santa Rosa

San Rafael 80
101
1
Larkspur Richmond
Richmond
580
131
123 24
Tiburon
Concord
1
Downtown Berkeley
Berkeley
101 Sausalito
Emeryville
12th St
Oakland
San
P A C I F I C Francisco
80
Oakland 580
61
O C E A N
1 Alameda 185
SAN 61
880
FRANCISCO
Oakland
101 BAY
82
35
San Jose San Jose
Sunlight shining through the trees, Muir Woods For keys to map symbols see back flap
exhibits. At 2pm every day 3 Stinson Beach

except Monday, the big cats US 101 N to Highway 1, continue to
are fed at the Lion House. Stinson Beach. Stinson Beach Park: Tel
Nearby is the Children’s Zoo, 868-0942. @ Golden Gate Transit bus
where animals can be petted. 10, then West Marin Stage 61. Open
7am–one hour after sunset daily.
2 Point Reyes Since the early days of the

National Seashore 20th century this has been
a popular vacation spot; the
US Highway 1 to Olema; once past first visitors came on ferries
town, follow signs for Point Reyes from San Francisco and were
National Seashore. @ Golden Gate
met by horse-drawn carriages.
Transit buses 10, 80, 101 to San Rafael
Stinson remains the preferred
Center, then West Marin Stage 68.
Orangutan at San Francisco Zoo swimming beach for the whole
and Gardens Point Reyes peninsula is wild area. It is a stretch of soft
and windswept, and a haven white sand, where surfers
1 San Francisco for wildlife, including a herd of mingle with swimmers and
Zoo and Gardens tule elk. There are cattle and sunbathers. The village nearby
dairy ranches, and three small has good bookstores, a few
Sloat Blvd and 45th Ave. Tel 753-7080. towns: Olema, Point Reyes restaurants, and a small
@ 18, 23. v L. Open 10am–5pm
Station, and Inverness. grocery store.
daily (to 4pm Nov–Mar). & (free first
The peninsula is due
Wed of every month for SF residents.)
∑ sfzoo.org
west of the San Andreas
Fault, which caused
San Francisco Zoo is at the far the 1906 earthquake
southwest corner of the city, (see pp30–31). A
between the Pacific Ocean and displaced fence
Lake Merced. The complex on the Earthquake
houses more than 1,000 species Trail near Bear Valley
of birds and mammals, among Visitor Center shows
which 30 are considered to be how the Fault caused
endangered, including snow the peninsula to move
leopards, a Bengal tiger, and a a full 20 ft (6 m) north
jaguar. At the innovative Primate of the mainland.
Discovery Center there are 15 In 1579 the British
different species of primates, explorer Sir Francis
including monkeys, langurs, Drake is said to have
and macaques. landed in Drake’s
One of the zoo’s highlights is Bay (see p24), named
the Koala Crossing, which is the land Nova Albion,
designed like an Australian out- and claimed it Giant redwoods in Muir Woods
back station. Otter River features for England.
cascading waterfalls and a live The Visitor Center has tide 4 Muir Woods
fish feeder for North American
river otters. Gorilla World is one
tables and trail maps. From
December to mid-March,
and Beach
of the world’s largest naturalistic whales can be seen offshore. US 101 N, exit for Highway 1; then
either turn onto Panoramic Highway
and follow signs to Muir Woods, or
stay on Highway 1 to Muir Beach
turnoff. No public transportation.
Tel Gray Line Tours 401-1860.
Nestling at the foot of Mount
Tamalpais is Muir Woods
National Monument, one of the
few remaining stands of first-
growth coast redwoods.
These giant trees (the oldest is
at least 1,000 years old) once
covered the coastal area of
California. The woods were
named in honor of John Muir,
a 19th-century naturalist who
Dairy farm at picturesque Point Reyes was one of the first to persuade
FA R T H E R A F I E L D  163
7 Tiburon
US 101 N, Tiburon Blvd exit.
@ Golden Gate Transit bus 8.
g from Pier 43½.
The main street in this chic

waterfront town is lined with
shops and restaurants housed
in “arks.” These are turn-of-the-
century houseboats that have
been pulled ashore, lined
up, and refurbished. They
now stand in what is
called “Ark Row.”
Less hectic than Sausalito,
Tiburon is a good town for
The attractive main street of Tiburon walking, with parks along the
scenic waterfront that offer a
Americans of the need 6 Sausalito place for contemplation.
for conservation. US 101 N, first exit after Golden Gate
Redwood Creek bubbles out Bridge, to Bridgeway. @ Golden Gate
of Muir Woods and makes its Transit buses 10, 70, 80. g from Ferry
way down to the sea at Muir Building or Pier 43½. Bay Model Visitor
Beach, a wide expanse of sand Center: Tel 332-3871. Open Apr– Sep:
popular with beachcombers 9am–4pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat,
and picnickers. The road to the Sun & pub. hols; Oct–Mar: 9am–4pm
beach passes the Pelican Inn. Tue–Sat. Closed Jul 4.
This 16th-century-style English
inn is extremely proud of its In this small town that was once
English menu, and its a fishing community, Victorian
welcoming hospitality. bungalows cling to steep hills
The beach is likely to be rising from the bay. Parallel to Angel Island and the waterfront
crowded on weekends, but the waterfront, Bridgeway town of Tiburon
visitors who are prepared to Avenue serves as a promenade
walk a mile or more are usually for the weekend crowds that 8 Angel Island
rewarded with solitude. come to patronize the g from Pier 43½ and Tiburon.
restaurants and boutiques and Tel State Park 435-3972.
enjoy the views. Village Fair is ∑ angelisland.org
5 Mount Tamalpais an eclectic assembly of shops
US 101 N, exit for Highway 1, turn on in an old warehouse. At 2100 Angel Island is reached by
to Panoramic Highway. Mount Bridgeway, the Bay Model ferry from Tiburon and San
Tamalpais State Park: Tel 388-2070. simulates the movement of Francisco. Boats dock at Ayala
@ Golden Gate Transit bus 10 to the bay’s tides and currents. Cove with its sweeping lawn
Marin City, then West Marin Stage 61. and picnic tables.
Open 7am–sunset. Mountain Theater Hiking trails loop
East Ridgecrest: performances May & the wooded
Jun: 2pm Sun except Memorial Day. island, rising to
Reservations: Tel 383-1100. 776 ft (237 m)
∑ mountainplay.org above sea level,
and past an old
Mount Tamalpais State Park is military garrison
a wilderness nature preserve that once housed
with trails that wind through Asian immigrants.
redwoods and alongside creeks. During World War
There are picnic areas, campsites, II, prisoners of war
and meadows for kite flying. were detained
Mount Tamalpais, at 2,571 ft here. No motor
(784 m), is the highest peak in vehicles are
the Bay Area; the rough tracks allowed here,
gave rise to the invention of the except for a few
mountain bike. Near the summit, park service vans.
the Mountain Theater is a natural Most visitors
amphitheater where musicals prefer to cycle or
and plays are performed. Floating homes in Sausalito walk on the island.
Berkeley q Gourmet Ghetto has more than 10 Nobel

Laureates among its fellows
Upper Shattuck Ave.  Berkeley,
then AC Transit 7, 18, 49 bus. and staff. The campus
∑ gourmetghetto.org (see pp178–9) was laid out
by Frederick Law Olmsted on
This north Berkeley neigh- the twin forks of Strawberry
borhood acquired fame as a Creek; changes by San
gourmet’s ghetto when Alice Francisco architect David
Waters opened Chez Panisse Farquharson were later
here in 1971. The restaurant adopted. Today there are over
is acclaimed for its use of 30,000 students and a wide
fresh local ingredients in range of museums,
a French-inspired style cultural amenities, and
that gave rise to what is buildings of note. These
known as California include the Berkeley Art
cuisine. In its original Museum (see p40), the
Carousel in Tilden Park house on Shattuck Hearst Museum of
Avenue, Chez Panisse has Anthropology, and
9 Tilden Park influenced many worthy Sather Tower, also
imitators. There are also known as the Campanile.
Tel (510) 544-2747.  Berkeley, then
many specialty markets
AC Transit 67 bus. Park: Open 5am–
and coffeehouses in the
10pm daily. Steam trains: Tel (510) 548-
surrounding neighbor- e Lawrence
6100. Open summer: 11am–5pm
daily; winter: 11am–6pm Sat & Sun. hood – hence its Hall of Science
& Carousel: Tel (510) 559-1004. salubrious nickname. Centennial Drive, Berkeley.
Open 11am–5pm daily in summer. Tel (510) 642-5132.
& - Botanical Garden: Tel (510)  Berkeley, then AC Transit
544-3169. Open 8:30am–5pm daily w University of 65 bus. @ from Mining
(Jun–Sep: to 5:30pm). 7 limited.
∑ ebparks.org/parks/tilden.html
California at Sather Tower, Circle, UC Berkeley (except
built in 1914 Sat, Sun). Open 10am–5pm
Berkeley daily. 7 & = -
Though preserved for the most Tel (510) 642-6000.  Berkeley. ∑ lawrencehallofscience.org
part in a natural wild condition, @ AC Transit 1, 7, 18, 40, 49, 51,
Tilden Park offers a variety of 52, 65. Hearst Museum of At this fascinating museum,
attractions. It is noted for the Anthropology: Tel (510) 642-3682. workshops and classes make
enchantingly landscaped Closed for renovation until 2016. science fun. Hands-on exhibits
Botanical Garden, specializing Berkeley Art Museum: Tel (510) 642- encourage younger visitors to
in California plants. Visitors can 0808. Open 11am–5pm Wed–Sun study the effects of mirrors on
(sometimes to 9pm Fri). Closed
enjoy a leisurely stroll from lasers or manipulate a hologram.
public hols. & 7 - 8 =
alpine meadows to desert ∑ berkeley.edu
They can also plot stars in the
cactus gardens by way of a planetarium, build a dinosaur
lovely redwood glen, and there Some would argue that UC skeleton, calculate odds by
are also guided nature walks. If Berkeley’s reputation for counter- rolling dice, or feed a snake.
you have children, don’t miss the cultural movements sometimes Along with a resident mechanical
carousel, the miniature farmyard, eclipses its reputation for dinosaur are changing
and the model steam train. academic excellence. Yet, it exhibitions, popular with families
remains one of the most presti- and children. The stunning view
gious universities in the world. from the outdoor plaza includes
0 Fourth Street Founded as a utopian much of the northern Bay Area,
@ AC Transit Z.  Berkeley, then AC
“Athens of the Pacific” as far west as the Farallon Islands.
Transit 51, 65 bus.
in 1868, By night, the lights around the
Berkeley bay are an extraordinary sight.
This gentrified enclave north
of University Avenue is
characteristic of Berkeley’s
climate of fine craftsmanship
and exquisite taste. Here you
can buy everything from hand-
made paper, stained-glass
windows, and furniture, to
organically grown lettuce and
designer garden tools. There is
also a handful of renowned
restaurants (see p229). Model of DNA at the Lawrence Hall of Science
r University u Claremont Resort

Botanical Garden and Spa
200 Centennial Dr, Berkeley. Tel (510) 41 Tunnel Rd (Ashby & Domingo
643-2755. @ from Mining Circle, UC Aves), Berkeley. Tel (510) 843-3000.
Berkeley Hills (except Sat, Sun & hols).  Rockridge, then AC Transit B,
Open 9am–5pm daily. Closed public 49 bus. 7 = 0
hols & first Tue of month. & (free first ∑ claremontresort.com
Thu of month.) 7 limited. =
The Berkeley Hills form a
More than 12,000 species from backdrop to this half-timbered
all over the world thrive at fairytale castle. Construction
Berkeley’s Strawberry Canyon. began in 1906, and ended in
Collections are arranged in 1915. In the early years the
thematic gardens linked hotel failed to prosper, due
by paths. Particularly partly to a law that forbade
noteworthy are the the sale of alcohol within
Asian, African, South a 1-mile (1.6-km) radius
American, European, of the Berkeley university
and California gardens. campus. An enterprising
The Chinese medicinal Jewish ceremonial dress, Magnes student actually measured the
herb garden, orchid display, Collection of Jewish Art and Life distance in 1937, and found
cactus garden, and the that the radius line passed
carnivorous plants are also treasures from Europe and India, through the center of the
well worth a visit. paintings by Marc Chagall and building. This revelation led
Max Liebermann, and Nazi to the founding of the Terrace
Germany mementos, such as a Bar, which is now known as
t Telegraph burned Torah scroll rescued from The Paragon, beyond the
Avenue a synagogue. Lectures, films, and radius line.
 Berkeley. @ AC Transit 1. traveling exhibits periodically As well as being one of the
enliven the halls. The Blumen- Bay Area’s plushest hotels,
Berkeley’s most stimulating thal Library has permanent this is a good place to have
street runs between Dwight Way resources for scholars. a drink and enjoy the views.
and the University. Telegraph
Avenue has one of the highest
concentrations of bookstores in
the country, and many coffee
houses and cheap eateries. This
district was the center of student
protest in the 1960s. Today
it swarms with students from
dawn to long after dusk, along
with street vendors, musicians,
protesters, and eccentrics.
y Magnes
Collection of
Jewish Art and Life
Bancroft Library, University of
CA Berkeley, 2121 Allston Way,
Berkeley. Tel (510) 643-2526.
 Rockridge, then AC Transit 51 bus.
 Ashby, then AC Transit 6 bus.
Open 11am–4pm Tue–Fri, events
only on Sat & Sun. Closed Jewish
and federal hols. ^ 7 arrange in
advance. 8 by arrangement.
∑ magnes.org
This is California’s largest

collection of historical artifacts
pertaining to Jewish culture,
from ancient times to today.
Among them are fine art View of the Claremont Resort and Spa at Berkeley
Oakland Temple of a Lake Merritt

the Church of Jesus  12th or 19th Street, then AC
Christ of the Latter Transit 11, 12, 57, 58, 805 bus.
Day Saints. At night
the temple is Formed when a saltwater
floodlit and can tidal estuary was dredged,
be seen from embanked, and partly dammed,
Oakland and San Lake Merritt and its surrounding
Francisco. The park form an oasis of rich blue
central ziggurat and green in the urban heart of
Gourmet shops at Rockridge Market Hall is surrounded by Oakland. Designated in 1870 as
four shorter towers, the first state game refuge in
Oakland all terraced and clad with
white granite and capped by
the United States, Lake Merritt
still attracts migrating flocks of
glistening golden pyramids. birds. Rowers can rent boats
i Rockridge From the temple there are from two boathouses on the
 Rockridge.
magnificent views over the entire west and north shores, and
Bay Area. The Visitor Center joggers and bicyclists can circle
A leafy residential area with offers guided tours by the lake on a 3 mile (5 km)
large houses and flower missionaries, who explain the path. The north shore at
gardens, Rockridge also attracts tenets of the faith with a series Lakeside Park has flower
shoppers to College Avenue. of multimedia presentations. gardens, an aviary, and a
There are a variety of shops
and restaurants as well as many
cafés with outdoor tables.
o Mormon Temple
4770 Lincoln Ave, Oakland.
Tel (510) 531-1475 (Visitor Center). 
Fruitvale, then AC Transit 46 bus.
Open 9am–9pm daily. Temple: call
the Visitor Center for times.
^ (except Visitor Center.)
7 8 of Visitor Center.
Designed in 1963 and built on

a hilltop, this is one of only two
Mormon temples in Northern
California. Its full name is the Central ziggurat of the Mormon Temple
p Bay Bridge to the Oakland “mainland” with traffic lanes wide, it has two
road and rail. The tracks were levels: westbound traffic
Map 6 E4. removed in the 1950s, leaving into San Francisco uses the
the bridge for use by more than top deck; eastbound to
The compound, high-level San 250,000 vehicles a day. Five Oakland, the lower.
Francisco–Oakland Bay Bridge The eastern cantilever
was designed by Charles H. section is raised on more
Purcell. It has two distinct than 20 piers. It climbs
structures, joining at Yerba up from the toll plaza
Buena Island in the middle of causeway in Oakland
the Bay, and reaches 4.5 miles to 191 ft (58 m) above
(7.2 km) from shore to shore. the bay at Yerba Buena
Its completion in 1936 heralded Island. In 1989 a 50 ft
the end of the age of ferryboats The East Bay Crossing (15 m) segment of the
on San Francisco Bay by linking
10 miles (16 km) of cable holding
the peninsular city at Rincon Hill
up the bridge
2,310 ft (704 m)
The West Bay Crossing section of Bay Bridge

Children’s Fairyland where

young visitors can enjoy pony
rides, puppet shows, and
nursery rhyme scenes.
s Jack London
Square
g to Oakland.  12th Street, then
AC Transit 58, 72, 88 bus.
Jack London, author of The Call

of the Wild and White Fang, grew
up in Oakland in the 1880s, and
was a frequent visitor to the
Oakland Estuary waterfront. Lake Merritt, Oakland
You can drive or catch the
ferry to its cheerful, bright f Old Oakland and Saturday night “Pasta
promenade of shops and  12th Street. Farmers’ Market: Operas,” when the management
restaurants, which have outdoor Tel (510) 238-1630. Open 8am–2pm and visiting singers serenade
tables in fine weather. There Fri. ∑ old-oakland.com the clientele.
are also pleasure boats offering
trips along the estuary. Also known as Victorian Row,
Little of the waterfront these two square blocks of wood g Oakland
that London knew remains. and brick commercial buildings Chinatown
However, the writer’s footsteps were erected between the 1860s  12th Street or Lake Merritt.
can be traced to Heinold’s First and 1880s, but they were
and Last Chance Saloon, which thoroughly renovated in the The bay area’s second-largest
has now sunken with age into 1980s and now contain an array Chinatown should perhaps be
the street. The Yukon cabin that of shops, restaurants, and art called “Asiatown.” Its Cantonese
was purportedly occupied by galleries. Fridays bring crowds of majority is augmented by
London during the Gold Rush shoppers to the Farmers’ Market, immigrants from Korea,
of 1898 has also been erected where stalls sell fresh produce Vietnam, and other parts
at the dockside. and prepared foods. By night, of Southeast Asia. The
the crowds move to the Pacific neighborhood receives far
Coast Brewing Company on fewer tourists than San
d Oakland Museum Washington Street. Don’t miss Francisco’s Chinatown. Its
of California 103-year-old Rattos, at 827 restaurants have a reputation
Washington Street, an Italian for hearty, dependable, and
See pp168–9. delicatessen famed for its Friday reasonably priced food.
bridge collapsed during the spans join at the

Loma Prieta earthquake (see p21). concrete central
The East Bay crossing was rebuilt anchorage, which is
between 2002 and 2013 to make deeper in the water than
it more earthquake resistant. that of any other bridge.
The new suspension bridge The World’s Fair
features a single tower across (1939 to 1940) was held
the shipping channel, which on Treasure Island, part
gives way to a graceful skyway. of Yerba Buena Island,
Boring through the island in to celebrate the bridge’s
a tunnel 76 ft (23 m) high and completion (see pp32–3).
58 ft (17 m) wide, the roadway Now this small island
emerges at the West Bay section is home to small parks
of the bridge. Two suspension and fine residences. Plan of the 1939–40 World’s Fair on Treasure Island
Central anchorage 5-lane double-level highway Pylons supporting

both road decks
2,310 ft (704 m)
400 ft (122 m)
d Oakland Museum of California

California’s only museum exclusively dedicated
to documenting the state’s art, history, and
environment opened in 1969. The building, an
important architectural icon for its integration of
museum and landscape, is handsomely terraced
with courts and gardens and was designed by
architect Kevin Roche. The Natural Sciences
Gallery showcases more than 2,000 Californian
species. The Gallery of California History has a Coming to California
large collection of Californian artifacts, while the The Gallery of California
Gallery of California Art boasts early oil paintings History explores the past and
present of the state.
of Yosemite and San Francisco. Check the museum
website for details of the latest exhibitions.
Roof and gardens
Gallery of California Art

The modern art in this
collection includes the painting
Ocean Park No: 107 (1978) by
Richard Diebenkorn.
The Great Hall

is used for special
changing exhibitions.
Level 2
Level 3
Iconic Exhibits
This customized Harley-Davidson is
just one of the arresting exhibits on
display in the Gallery of California Art.
Key to the Oakland Museum Levels

ViSitOrS’ CheCKLiSt
1000 Oak St, Oakland.
tel (510) 318-8400.
Gallery of California Art Gallery of California History ∑ museumca.org
Gallery of California Natural Sciences
Open 11am–5pm Wed & Thu,
11am–9pm Fri, 10am–6pm
California Mud Wagon Sat & Sun. Closed Jan 1, Jul 4,
Developed for rural life Thanksgiving, Dec 25. h &
during the mid-19th (free 1st Sun.) = - 8 7
century, this multipurpose
vehicle could be Transport
 Lake Merritt
converted easily from
a field wagon to a stylish
carriage.
Forces of Change
Dioramas present a variety
of Californian perspectives
on the tumultuous social
and political change of the
1960s and 1970s.
Level 1
Sculpture Gardens
host outdoor festivals
and are also a popular
spot for a picnic.
Museum Guide
The main entrance to the museum
is on Oak Street. Ticketing is on
Level 2, where you will also find the
Gallery of California History,
the Blue Oak café, the OMCA Store,
.Gallery of Natural Sciences and the Great Hall, for special
Explore California’s conservation exhibitions. The Gallery of
with more than 2,000 different California Art is on Level 3.
native species and 7 major
habitats.
Day Trips South of the City

South of San Francisco Bay, Santa Clara County became
famous in the late 1960s for its Silicon Valley. It is well worth
exploring on day trips. San José has a variety of fascinating
museums, while Filoli estate offers a mansion and garden tour.
Stanford University and Pescadero are interesting for their
fine architecture and history. The Winchester Mystery House
Sights at a Glance
Oakland Berkeley 0 kilometers 20
80
Museums Alameda 0 miles 10
580
35
1 The Winchester Mystery House Oakland
Daly Stockton
2 Rosicrucian Egyptian Museum San 580
City Leandro
and Planetarium 82
South Hayward
3 Tech Museum of Innovation San Francisco SAN
San FRANCISCO
4 Children’s Discovery Museum Francisco
238 680
Pacifica BAY
5 History Museum of San José m eda Cre
ek
92 Ala 84
8 Stanford University 280
San Fremont
Historic Places 1 Mateo 101 Newark
6 Filoli 7 Pescadero 680
84 880
Half
Key Moon Bay Redwood
City Palo
35 Alto
Central San Francisco
280
82 101 San
Urban area PACIFIC 1
Jose
OCEAN Santa
Freeway Clara San Jose
280
84
Major road
35
Minor road 85 87 82
Railroad line Monterey
1 The Winchester boats and models, human and

Mystery House animal mummies, Coptic
textiles, pottery, jewelry, and a
525 South Winchester Blvd, between full-size tomb are on display.
Stevens Creek Blvd and I-280, San José.
Tel (408) 247-2101. £ Santa Clara,
then Santa Clara Transportation
3 The Tech
Agency bus 32 or 34 to Franklin St
and Monroe St; then bus 60. Museum of
Forecourt of the Rosicrucian
Open 8am–7pm daily. Closed Dec 25.
8 required. & - = Egyptian Museum Innovation
∑ winchestermysteryhouse.com 201 South Market St (at Park Ave), San
2 Rosicrucian José. Tel (408) 294-TECH. £ San José,
When Sarah Winchester, the Egyptian Museum then Light Rail to Convention Center.
heiress of the Winchester Rifle Open 10am–5pm daily. Closed Dec
fortune, began to build her
and Planetarium 25. & - = ∑ thetech.org
house in 1884, a medium told 1660 Park Ave, San José.
her she would die if she Tel (408) 947-3635. £ Santa Clara, The Tech is a colorful techno-
stopped. She kept carpenters then Santa Clara Transportation logical museum divided into
working there for 38 years, until Agency bus 32 or 34 to Franklin St, several themed galleries,
she died at age 82. The result is then bus 81. Open 9am–5pm Wed– including life sciences, energy,
Fri, 10am–6pm Sat & Sun.
a bizarre complex of 160 rooms and communication. Many of
Closed public holidays. &
filled with unusual treasures, set the exhibits have a “hands-on”
∑ egyptianmuseum.org
in beautiful gardens. Its features element, such as making your
include stairways that lead Inspired by the Temple of Amon own film, or discovering the
nowhere and windows set into at Karnak, Egypt, this museum latest tricks in animation. There
the floor. The house has a houses ancient Egyptian, is also an Imax® Dome Theater,
Firearms Museum with a Babylonian, Assyrian, and which is open for screenings on
collection of Winchester rifles. Sumerian artifacts. Funerary Friday and Saturday nights.
4 Children’s
Discovery Museum
180 Woz Way, San José. Tel (408)
298-5437. £ Arena, or to Tamien,
then Light Rail to Technology.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–
5pm Sun (Jun–Aug: also open Mon).
& 7 ∑ cdm.org
A short walk leads from San

José Convention Center to
this museum, where children
can play in a real red fire engine
or in an ambulance with
flashing lights. The more A popular exhibit in the Children’s Discovery Museum
adventurous can crawl
through a multi-level maze to a fire station, an ice-cream 7 Pescadero
experience 3-D space or step parlor with working soda  Daly City, then SamTrans routes 17,
into dedicated environments fountain, a gas station, and a IC, or IL to Half Moon Bay, then 96C
to explore the phenomenon historic trolley that travels (weekdays only).
of rhythm. At the Waterways around the grounds.
exhibit, children can discover This quaint village with its many
the special properties of water two-story wooden buildings
by creating unique fountains 6 Filoli has antique stores, gift shops,
from magnetic half-pipes. and one of the southern
86 Canada Rd, near Edgewood Rd,
peninsula’s best restaurants,
Woodside. Tel (650) 364-8300.
Duarte’s Tavern. Families will
5 History Museum 8 Feb–Nov by appointment.
enjoy Phipps Ranch, a farm with
Open 10am–3:30pm Tue–Sat, 11am–
of San José 3:30pm Sun (last admission 2:30pm). a barnyard and “pick your own”
1650 Senter Rd, San José. Tel (408) Closed federal hols. ∑ filoli.org fruit. Pigeon Point Lighthouse
287-2290. £ Cahill, then bus 64 to lies 8 miles (12 km) to the south.
1st and Santa Clara St, then bus 73 The lavish 43-room Filoli
from 2nd St. Open 8:30am–5pm mansion was built in 1915 for
William Bourne II, owner of the 8 Stanford
Mon–Fri. Closed major public
holidays. & ∑ historysanjose.org Empire Gold Mine. Gold from the University
mine was used in its decoration.
Palo Alto. Tel (650) 723-2560.
This charming museum in The elegant house is surrounded £ Palo Alto, then Santa Clara Transit
Kelley Park re-creates San José by a large garden and an estate bus 35. 8 phone for details.
as it was in the early 20th where guided nature walks can ∑ stanford.edu
century. More than 21 original be arranged. “Filoli” is an
houses and businesses have acronym for “Fight, love, live,” One of the country’s most
been restored and set around which refers to Bourne’s love prestigious private universities,
a town square. They include for the Irish and their struggle. with 15,000 students, Stanford
was built by railroad
mogul Leland Stanford
(see p104) in memory of
his son, and opened in
1891. The heart of the
campus is the Main Quad,
in Romanesque style with
some Mission architecture
characteristics. Main
landmarks are the Hoover
Tower, the Memorial
Church, and the Stanford
University Museum of Art,
where you can see the
Golden Spike that
completed the trans-
continental railroad in
1869. The Museum of Art
owns a collection of
Rodins, including The Gates
Memorial Church at Stanford University, Palo Alto of Hell and Adam and Eve.
FIVE GUIDED WALKS

These five walks take in much of the Bay that drop dramatically into the sea. The third
Area’s intriguing cultural and geographical walk moves to Berkeley (see pp164–5) in the
diversity and sweeping views. The Aquatic East Bay to explore the groves of academe.
Park walk along the northern waterfront The city walk through Russian Hill takes you
covers the area from Hyde Street Pier (see through a warren of hidden parks and gardens,
p87), with its historic sailing ships and or take in the atmosphere on a walk around
echoes of the past, to Fort Mason Center the SoMa District, with its trendy galleries,
(see pp74–5), a military relic transformed into shops, cafés, and glitzy hotels. In addition
a lively community with theaters, museums, to these walks, each of the eight areas of
and arts activities. Only half an hour’s drive San Francisco described in the Area by Area
away, the Marin Headlands walk is into section of this book has a walk on its
another world, of rolling hills with cliffs Street-by-Street map.
California Hall
University of California Campus,
(pp178–9)
Berkeley (pp178–9)
Marin Headlands
(pp176–7)
Aquatic Park (pp174–5)
SoMa
(pp180–81)
Russian Hill
(pp182–83)
0 kilometers 5
0 miles 3
Hyde Street Pier

(pp174–5) Key
Walk Route
C.A.Thayer, 1895 schooner, at Hyde Street Pier

A 90-Minute Walk around Aquatic Park

Side by side on San Francisco’s northern waterfront, Aquatic
Park and Fort Mason offer some fascinating glimpses into the
city’s past, especially its colorful history as a seaport. There are
no cars here, just walkers, cyclists, and skaters sharing lushly
overgrown paths. The route winds past historic ships moored
in the bay, Depression-era swim clubs, Gold Rush cottages,
and military installations dating from Spanish colonial times
to World War II. You can swim if you don’t mind the chilly bay
water, fish for crabs, paddle off a small beach, or just stop to
admire the view and picnic in one of the many grassy spots.
For more details see pages 74–5 and 87.
the Hyde Street cable- Marina Green and Fort Mason

car turntable on your
left. In flower-filled
Victorian Park 4
street musicians
perform. There is a
pair of whitewashed
clapboard buildings
5 on the sandy
beach to your right,
which house the
Fort Mason e
South End and Center
Dolphin swimming
and rowing clubs.
Aquatic Park
Great
Continue westward to
Meadow
the broad Golden Gate
Promenade, popular
LAGU
with joggers, cyclists,

w
and skaters. This right
NA
of way follows the old

Ships moored in Aquatic Park Belt Line railroad,
STRE
which once ran along

E E T
ET
S T R
Hyde Street Pier the Embarcadero from the B A Y
Begin at the seaward end of wharves and warehouses of
Hyde Street Pier 1. Until 1938, China Basin and Potrero Hill to
when the opening of the Fort Mason and the Presidio.
Golden Gate Bridge made it On the left is a large building
obsolete, this pier was the known as the Casino 6, built in
center of activity on the city’s 1939 as a public bathing club.
northern waterfront. It is now Since 1951 it has been the West
part of the San Francisco Coast home of the Maritime
Maritime National Historical National Historical Park Visitors’
Park, used as a mooring for a Center (see p87), which has been
collection of historic ships (see renovated and expanded. Look
p87). Among these is a out for the exhibit showcasing
handsome steam-powered the city’s historic waterfront.
ferry boat, the Eureka 2, built West of the Casino is a topiary
in 1890. The ship is full of old sign spelling out “Aquatic Park.”
cars and ephemera from 1941, Behind this are red-and-white
the last year it was in service. plastic-roofed bocce ball courts.
From the landward end of the The old dock and boathouse 7
pier, where there is a book- to your right are used on
store 3 operated by the weekends by sea scouts
National Park Service, walk learning seamanship. Continue Boat building in progress on Hyde
west along the waterfront past along the waterfront to the Street Pier 1
FIVE GUIDED WALKS  175
curving concrete pier 8 that homes. Follow Funston

marks the western end of Street along the length
Aquatic Park. People fish here of the hostel, and then
at all hours, mostly for crabs. turn right at Franklin
The Mission-style building at Street. Here there are
several interesting
Key buildings, including the
Walk route exclusive Fort Mason
General’s residence on
0 meters 250
the left. Turn right by
0 yards 250 7 The sea scouts’ boathouse the chapel to arrive at
the headquarters of the
Golden Gate National
Recreation Area (GGNRA) q.
The grassy knolls of Great
Meadow w extend westward
1
Municipal from here. This was where
Pier refugees from the 1906
Hyde 2 earthquake camped until they
8 Street could be rehoused. A statue
Pier
3 of Congressman Phillip Burton,
the inspiration behind the
A Q U AT I C
formation of the GGNRA, has
COVE
been erected in the middle of
9 the field. From the Great
T
STREE
RSON Meadow, take the narrow
5 JEFFE
steps down the hill to Fort
4
0 7 Mason Center (see pp74–5).
Aquatic
Park
Continue north toward the
piers e and stop in Building
FRA
E E T
S T R
HYDE
6 B E A
C H
D to visit the Mexican
NKL
LARK
Officers’ Museum, or view the

IN
STRE
POLK
Club Outdoor Exploratorium,

IN
ET
STRE which illustrates the history
q
ET
T
POIN
of the shoreline in that part
STRE
N ORTH
of the Bay and the area’s
STRE
STRE
VAN
ET
natural environment.
ET
ET
E E T
S T R
NESS
B AY
Tips for Walkers

AVE
Starting point: The seaward end

of Hyde Street Pier.
Length: 1.5 miles (2.5 km).
Getting there: The Powell–Hyde
cable car’s northern terminus and
turntable at Beach Street is a
short walk from Hyde Street Pier.
Muni bus no. 19 goes to Beach
remains of artillery Street and Polk Street.
the foot of the pier is emplacements from Stopping-off points: The Buena
an emergency the late 1800s. Vista Café, opposite the cable-car
pumping station. Follow the Golden turntable, is always packed with
Gate Promenade to customers who come for the
Fort Mason the top of the slope, good breakfasts and strong
West of Aquatic Park, then turn left and go coffee (including a famous Irish
the Golden Gate around to the front of Coffee). Greens restaurant (see
p226) in Building A at Fort Mason
Promenade climbs the Youth Hostel 0.
Center, considered to be San
upward, rounding Black This is one of the
Francisco’s finest vegetarian
Point and giving excellent few ornate wooden restaurant, is run by disciples of
views of Alcatraz and Angel houses open to the Zen Buddhism. At the south end
Island. Above the pathway, public. Most of the of Building C, there is the Reader’s
cypress trees cover the buildings date from Café Bookstore featuring a
headland, and a series of Phillip Burton in Great the 1850s and Thursday poetry series.
terraces 9 hold the Meadow w today serve as
A 90-Minute Walk through the Marin Headlands

At its northern end, the Golden Gate Bridge is
anchored in the rolling green hills of the Marin
Headlands. This is an unspoiled wild area of
windswept ridges, sheltered valleys, and deserted
beaches, once used as a military defense post and
now part of the vast Golden Gate National
Recreation Area. From several vantage points there
are spectacular views of San Francisco and the sea
and, on autumn days, you can see migrating eagles
Schoolchildren on a trip to the Marin Headlands
and ospreys gliding past Hawk Hill. KE
RR
D
N
BU
MARIN HEADLANDS
(GOLDEN GATE NATIONAL
RECREATION AREA)
6 H E L L
R O A D
M I T C
5 Rodeo
2
Miwok Indian
shelter. The walk,
which will take you
around Rodeo Lagoon A
L
T
2, begins at the gate on
S
A
C O
Rodeo Beach 3 the west, ocean side, of the 3
Rodeo
parking area. Take the path to Beach
Visitor Center to the left that leads to the sea.
Rodeo Beach This part of the trail is thick with
Before starting this walk, pause a trees and shrubs, including the
Battery
while at the steepled Visitor poison oak, of which visitors Smith-Guthrie
Center 1, which was once the should be aware. The songs of
interdenominational chapel for birds fill the air, and around the
Fort Barry. It has since been edges of the lagoon you will see
refurbished and is now a brown pelicans, snowy egrets,
museum and information and mallards. A 15-minute walk PACIFIC
OCEAN
center, with a natural history will bring you to the sandy,
bookstore that specializes in windblown Rodeo Beach 3,
books on birds. Here you can and from here you can
discover the history of the Marin see Bird Island 4
Headlands and see a Coast lying offshore to 4
Bird
Island
ME
N DELL ROAD
Battery
Mendell
Key
Walk route
The serene Rodeo Lagoon 2

path, then turn left at the road

that climbs a hill to the Marine
Mammal Center 7. This was
used as a missile defense site
during the Cold War, but is now
run by volunteers who rescue
and care for sick or injured
marine mammals. Sea lions and
Seal at the Marine Mammal Center 7 seals, including elephant seals,
are examined and treated
here, in specially Visitor Center 1
7 designed pens,
then put back plunges down to the right into
the dense shrubbery.
Take this, and then continue
AD
RO up the hill again, via a series
of steps that will return you to
ER
AD
RO
B U NK
8 the path at the end of the

Visitor Center parking area.
R
J Rodeo
K E
B U N
Lake
Walk across the lot and cross
Field Road going up the hill
to a three-story wooden
9
1 building, constructed at the
Lagoon turn of the century. This is
RO
A D
listed on the National
D
FI
E L
O RT H R D
Historic Registry and
B ODSW
has been officers’
I L SIM
T R
A MO
ND headquarters, a
ROS S
EN
ST
RD
hospital, and a missile
0
O
CO C
A command center. It is
K
RD
ST
AL
TR
AI
now the Golden Gate
L
Hostel 0 for travelers.
0 meters 250
The Marin Headlands
0 yards 250 also offer a wide range of
longer, more challenging
the south. Fishing boats may in the sea when they have wilderness walks. Wolf Ridge
be seen bobbing out at sea, recovered. You can watch the and Bobcat Trail are two popular
but the beach is mostly empty vets at work and get a close routes to try.
of people, although view of the mammals,
sometimes you might many of which are
see groups of children orphaned pups. There
Tips for Walkers
studying the coastal are also displays on the
ecology: educational marine ecosystem. Starting point: The Visitor Center
programs are run by at Fort Barry.
the Headlands Institute, Lagoon to the Golden Length: 2 miles (3 km).
based in the nearby Gate Hostel Getting there: San Francisco
former army barracks. Make your way back Muni bus 76 leaves from the
down the hill and return intersection of Sutter Street and
Sansome Street on Sundays and
Barracks to the to the paved road that
major holidays. Tel (415) 673-
California Marine runs past the lagoon 8.
6864 (Muni). By car, drive across
Mammal Center There is a separate the Golden Gate Bridge, taking
From the beach, turn roadside pathway for the Alexander Avenue exit. Turn
inland again as you hikers, but you have to under the freeway, following
approach the tip of the climb over a guard rail signs for the Headlands and
lagoon, crossing a to get on to it. Just Fort Barry.
wooden footbridge 5. before the road crosses Stopping-off points: Water is
Here there are barracks a bridge, you can stop available, but there are no
6 housing various to watch the water refreshment facilities in the Marin
Sign marking a trail
offices, among them birds. There are plenty Headlands. You will need to bring
the Headlands District of these to be seen in your own picnic lunch, which can
Office, the Golden Gate Raptor this brackish lagoon with its tall be enjoyed at any number of
Observatory, and an energy and grasses. Stay on the path as tables dotted along the trails and
resources center. Walking past you cross the bridge. Before on the beaches.
the barracks, continue along the the guard rail ends, a path 9
A 90-Minute Walk around the University of

California Campus in Berkeley
This walk concentrates on a distinct area of Berkeley, the
campus of the University of California, allowing a stimulating
glimpse into the intellectual, cultural, and social life of this
vibrant university town (see pp164–5).
the Hearst Mining

Building 9, built
by Howard in 1907.
Inside are ore samples
and pictures of old
mining operations.
Return to University
Drive, turn left and University students outside
out of the East Gate Wheeler Hall
to the Hearst Greek North
NUE
Theater 0. AVE Gate
RST
HEA
Tolman
5 Esplanade near Sather Tower UE Hall
ST AVEN
HEAR
West Entrance to Sather Tower
From University Avenue 1, Wellman
)
rk
Hall Fo
cross Oxford Street and follow
University Drive past the Valley
Life Sciences Building 2. Well- 1
th
or
UE WEST (N
man Hall can be seen on the ER SI TY A
V EN TH
E
CIRCLE
U N IV S IT Y
OXFOR
north fork of Strawberry Creek U N IV

ER
3
CR
E
as you follow the road to the D R IV 2
ESC
S H AT T
West
right, keeping California Hall 3 o
ENT
Gate
D
ET
STRE
on your right. Turn left on the ISON
UCK
STREET
ADD
ek
Cross Campus Road 4. Wheeler

re
C
AV E N
Hall lies to the right and ahead SIN

GE
ry
ES
R
ET
er
is the main campus landmark, TRE b HL

ER S w SC W (Sou
CENT S tr a
UE
K AY th
Fork)
the 307 ft- (94 m-) tall Sather Downtown FRAN
Berkeley Alumni
Tower 5, commonly referred House
to as “The Campanile.” Built by W AY Evans Haas
TON
ALLS Pavilion
John Galen Howard in 1914, it Diamond
i
was based on the campanile in Goldman
the Piazza San Marco in Venice. Field
Before going there, visit the Doe EDGE WAY

KITTR ET
STRE FT
Library 6 and the A. F. Morrison CRO
BAN
STRE
DAN T
Memorial Library 7 in the north

ELLSW
F U LT
A
E
STREET
wing. The adjacent Bancroft AVE

ON S
ORTH
Library houses the plate ANT

DUR
T
supposedly left by Sir Francis

Drake, claiming California for
Queen Elizabeth I (see p24).
Return to Sather Tower, which
is open 10am to 3:30pm
Monday to Saturday and offers
fine views from the top. Across
the way lies South Hall 8, the
oldest building on campus.
Hearst Mining Building to

the Greek Theatre
Continuing north, pass LeConte
Hall, then cross University Drive
to the Mining Circle. Here is Wellman Hall on the University of California Campus
look at Hertz Hall e, then go

down the diagonal walk that
passes Wurster Hall to Kroeber
Hall. Here you can visit the Hearst
Museum of Anthropology. Cross
Bancroft Way to the Caffè Strada
r, and then proceed to the
wildly modern Berkeley Art
Museum t. Continue along
Bancroft Way to Telegraph
Avenue y, famous for the
student activism of the 1960s
and 1970s. The entrance to the
university opposite Telegraph
u Musicians on lower Sproul Plaza Avenue opens onto Sproul
Plaza u. Step into the
5 Sather Tower, a campus landmark
UE
AVEN CY
RST CL
HEA OT
RO
N lower courtyard with its
G
A
RO
modern Zellerbach Hall i,
Y
AD
LE
then pass Alumni House,

Y
noting the state-of-the-art

RO
AD
9 Haas Pavilion, and turn right.

Stanley East
Hall Gate Cross over the south fork of
MINING
CIRCLE
0
Strawberry Creek at Bay Tree
Evans IVE
Hall DR Bridge, and bear left for the
Y
R SIT nature area, with its eucalyptus
IVE Lewis
Memorial UN
Glade Hildebrand
Hall S
R TA
IN D
trees, some of the tallest in the
LeConte
Hall
Hall G IU
W
AY
M world o. The path ends near
7
the start of the walk.
6 5 0 meters 250
q
0 yards 250
4 8 w
Wheeler
PIE
Hall e Key
DM
Wurster
Hall
Walk route
ONT
Sather
Gate
Barrows
A V EN
Hall
Kroeber Tips for Walkers
Hall
UE
WAY
u CRO
FT Starting point: The West Gate at
Sproul BAN
Hall University Ave and Oxford St.
COLL
r
AV E N
Length: 2.5 miles (4 km).

t
BOWD T
Getting there: San Francisco–

EGE
ST R EE
UE
Oakland Bay Bridge, Interstate 80

TELEG E
IT C H
AVEN
y N U E east, University Avenue exit.

A V E
RAPH
A N T By BART, Berkeley stop.

U
D U R
Stopping-off points: The Caffè
Strada, on Bancroft Way, is always
Faculty Club to the crowded with students. A few
Eucalyptus Grove steps down the street, in the
Follow Gayley Road, which Berkeley Art Museum, is Babette
straddles a major earthquake Café, which looks out on to the
fault, and turn right down the sculpture garden. You may want
to browse in the bookstores on
first path past Lewis Hall and
Telegraph Avenue, or sample
Hildebrand Hall, then left over a
food from one of the many carts
footbridge. The path winds at the entrance to Sproul Plaza.
between a log house and the Here you can find everything
Faculty Club q. This rambling, from smoothies to Mexican and
rustic building, partly designed Greek food. In the lower Sproul
by Bernard Maybeck, dates from Plaza of the University there
1903. Faculty Glade w in front of are several cafés. Log on to
the club is a favorite picnic spot. www.visitberkeley.com for
The path now swings to the t Within (1969) by A. Lieberman at UCB more information.
right, then sharply left. Take a Art Museum
180  San fRanCiSCO aRea by aRea
A 90-Minute Walk around South of Market

Once a grubby warehouse district, SoMa is a model of urban the museum store for art books,
revitalization. The name SoMa is derived from the contraction jewelry, and children’s games.
of “South of Market.” This was once the “wrong side” of the Plan to return for a full tour of
Market Street cable-car track when Gold Rush-era immigrants the displays of contemporary
art. On either side of SFMOMA
worked in the factories here. Today, a four-block square area are skyscraper hotels, the St.
surrounding the Moscone Convention Center is packed with Regis Museum Tower and W
major art and history museums, high-rise hotels, trendy San Francisco. At the base of
galleries, and shops. On this walk you will encounter vestiges the St. Regis, a turn-of-the-
of the city’s lively past among its dazzling 21st-century century building houses
the Museum of the African
architecture, as well as trendy cafés and bars.
Diaspora (MOAD), where
multimedia displays
present such
Y
ER
BA
BU 2
EN
A
ST
RE
T
ET
E
E
4
R
T
T
H
S
S
T
T
R
E
K E
E
R
T
A
M
Powell Street
Station
The SoMa skyline with its mix of old and new architecture
T
E
E
R
5
T
T
S
H
Mission Street on the outside, with

ST
N
Begin at St. Patrick’s Church 1, three floors of
S
IO
T
T
N E
R
E
SO
S
R
E
treasures inside.
IS
a soaring brick landmark built in EN ST

HO
E
LL
T
EV A AN
1851. Notice the green open ST IN
N D
CT
space of Yerba Buena Gardens SFMOMA 0 M

M
IN
T
across the street, and the variety Retrace your steps to ST

ST
R
IE
EE
of vintage and contemporary Mission Street and SS

T
JE
buildings that characterize this walk south two blocks
M
diverse district. Walking in a to Third Street. Across

A
R
Y
northeasterly direction will take from Yerba Buena

ST
T
E
R
E
EE
R
ST
you past the Contemporary Gardens, admire the

T
5
T
T
A
H
E
M
Jewish Museum 2 (see p115), cylinder of the San Francisco

E
O
S
R
T
T
A
R
N
housed in a former power Museum of Modern Art 6

S
E
E
D
T
R
substation. The museum’s (see pp120–23), one of the

A
T
E
W
E
R
breathtaking interior was architectural wonders of the

O
ST
H
designed by the architect Daniel city. The architect, Mario Botta,

M
A
H
E
Libeskind. Continue on to the described the tilting skylight as

T
California Historical Society 3 “the eye for the city.” Browse in

(see p115), where the colorful
story of the Golden State is told subjects as celebrations, slavery,
through art and photography. art, and origins. At the sleek W
You might like to return here Hotel, take a look into the
another time to delve into “Living Room,” the octagonal,
manuscripts in the library, or three-story lobby that’s walled
to sign up for narrated history with glass and flowing drapes.
walks. Step into the Cartoon Art Here, you can rest with a drink
Museum 4 to see exhibitions or a coffee.
of comic book superheroes,
great women cartoonists, or Yerba Buena Gardens to the
the work of Charles Schultz, the Old United States Mint
Peanuts creator – it depends Cross Third Street to enter Yerba
on what is on display at the Buena Gardens 7 (see p116–17).
time. Stroll up to Second Street Take a stroll beneath the
and turn left to find the sycamores and around the
Alexander Book Company 5, an 6 San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, flower gardens, and walk
old favorite, that is unassuming a stunning work of architecture behind the Martin Luther King
five GUiDeD WALKS  181
ET
RE
ST
T
N
E
SO
E
R
EN
T
EV
N
S
ST TH
O
N
T
Montgomery Y
E
ST
E
St Station R
R
EE
T
T
S
E
N
N
K
IO
R
W
A
S
IS
M
M
5
O
T
N
E
T
E
A
R
G
ST
N
2
N
N
M
IE
A
D
N
E
ST
IN
Y
R
M
S
E
E
T
E
R
T
R
ST
E
ST
0 Façade of the Old Mint on Mission Street

T
R
IE
3
E
R
SS
4
T
D
JE
3
T
E
S
nine-story-tall mural rising
E
T
R
R
ST
E 0 meters 200 above a riot of roses, lettuce,

ST
A
E
N
T
A
IN
St
M
and daisies. Now head for

M
Regis 0 yards 200

T
A
N
the Society of California

T
6
E
Pioneers Museum 9 on Fourth

E
R
ST
W San Street, which was founded in

1
N
Francisco
H
O
1850 and is now home to both

SI
W
IS
T
M
a museum and library. Here

H
O
R
you will find many fine

N
3
7
E
R
D
Ye r ba B u e n a paintings of 19th-century
T
S
E
T
Yosemite National Park (see
E
Ga r d e n s R
R
E
S
T
E
T
pp202–5), the Sierra Nevada,

S
T
R
H
E
A
PL MP
E
and other early landscapes,

T
A TO
D
CE N
R
A
featured along with Gold Rush

W
Mo sco n e
O
C on ven tio n artifacts and hundreds of

H
A
EE
IC
C en ter N E
daguerreotypes and photos.
R
RO AC
ST
VE PL
4 Turn left on Howard Street,
N
T
O
H
IS
then take a right on

R
8
R
S
A
T
T Fifth Street. On the

H
EE
R LA
3
R
E P R
ST
E ST U
RE LA D corner of Mission Street,
IO
T ET PU
C
S
T
T you will see the magnificent

E
IF
E
E
N
N
R
LA
façade of the “Granite Lady,”

T
B
S
L
A
A
9
IZ
the Greek Revival-style Old

IN
R
T
N
United States Mint 0 (see p119),

T
E
E
M
E
R
E
erected in 1869–74 to make

T
L
C
coins from California gold and

M
O
S
Nevada silver.
L
E
E
O
R
F
ST
T
Y
E
LE
T
R
E
IP
Tips for Walkers

ST
E
SH
R
A
T
R
S
LA
5
N
T
Starting point: St. Patrick’s

C
O
H
Key
IS
S
Church on Mission Street between

R
T
R
R
E
A
E
3rd and 4th streets.

H
Walk route
T
Distance: 0.5 mile (0.8 km).

Getting there: On BART, and on
Memorial Waterfall to read MUNI Metro lines F, J, K, L, M, N,
and T exit at Powell Street Station.
passages from King’s “I Have a
Stopping-off points: Food and
Dream” speech. Leaving the
drink tends to be less expensive
gardens, walk down Third Street here than around Union Square
and turn right into Harrison and on the waterfront, but in
Street and right again toward the glitzy hotels (W, the St. Regis,
the intersection with Bonifacio and the Marriott) expect to pay
Street, where the Alice Street $5 for a cup of coffee. Enjoy a
Community Gardens 8 make great sandwich at The Grove
for another fascinating urban in Yerba Buena or have a picnic in
experience. The proud senior Yerba Buena Gardens. Alternatively,
and disabled people from the head over to the Metreon (see
neighborhood who keep the pp250–51), which has a good
7 Yerba Buena Gardens, an elegant and patch in bloom will be glad to range of eateries and cafés.
restful space show you around. Look for the
182  sAn fRAncisco AREA by AREA
A 90-Minute Walk around Russian Hill

A hilltop warren of parks and rare pre-earthquake architecture Wilder) and, next door, his
are the rewards for this scramble up the steep stairways and own house (at 1013), which
leafy alleyways of Russian Hill. Here, you will encounter few is a shingle-sided, six-story
arrangement reminiscent of
cars and fewer people as you wander among carefully the English Arts and Crafts
preserved buildings from the city’s lively and notorious past, movement. After the quake,
and enjoy the dazzling views, the birdsong, and the luxuriant Polk was appointed supervising
hillside gardens that are the pride of the neighborhood. architect of the 1915 Panama-
At the end of your walk, descend to indulge in the European- Pacific International Exposition,
a world fair that celebrated the
style cafés and boutiques at the foot of the hill.
building of the Panama Canal
and the rebuilding of San
Francisco (see p72). Below
his house, he created the
zigzagging, Beaux Arts-style
Vallejo Street steps, known as
LEAV
ENWO
HYDE
RTH S
EE T
N STR
STRE
ALLE
TREE
N ST
UNIO
ET
Russian Hill, fabulous views and pre-quake houses
T
R PL
W AR NE
HA M LIN
Russian Hill Place Peek through the fence to see
ST RE ET
Start the walk from the corner an 8-ft- (2-m-) tall rabbit, and
of Jones and Vallejo streets on a contemporary mobile
T 7
the whimsical, Beaux Arts sculpture. Note the Pueblo GREE
N STR
EE
balustrade 1, designed in 1915 Mission Revival-style homes

by Willis Polk, one of the along this street.
architects of the post-1906 Back on Vallejo Street, the
WHIT
earthquake reconstruction gems of Russian Hill are two

E STR
(see pp30–31). Before climbing steep-roofed, gabled houses in

EE
the stone stairway, notice the the Bay Area Tradition-style at TREE T
T
EJO S
VA L L
Spanish-tile-roofed, Mission Nos. 1013–19 4. Here, leading 8
Revival-style houses, with their a move away from the
fanciful balconies and arched gingerbread-house design of
HYDE
windows on either side. Then the Victorian era, Polk designed

take the stairs and walk into the a home (at 1019) in 1892 for DWA
Y
DWA
Y
BROA BROA
STRE
short alleyway of Russian Hill a wealthy client (who hosted,

Place 2 to see the backs of among others, Robert Louis
ET
those homes and their gardens. Stevenson and Laura Ingalls

MORR
No. 6 is a turn-of-the-century LY N C
H ST
RE ET
ELL S
Bay Area Tradition-style house.

TREE
UE
Vallejo Street has a variety of FIC A
VEN
PACI
homes and apartments built
T
HYDE
between 1888 and the 1940s.

STRE
Florence Street to
Coolbrith Park
ET
ON ST
Turn right into short Florence JACKS
Street 3 and, at the end, look

across the rooftops to Nob Hill.
Once called Snob Hill, it is
sprinkled with 19th-century
mansions and grand hotels – 0 meters 100
look for the towers of Grace
0 yards 100
Cathedral (see p105). No. 40, one
of the oldest houses on the hill, Key
built in 1850, is hidden within 4 Part of the rambling Vallejo Street Walk route
additions from later decades. steps or “the ramps”
five GUiDeD WALKS  183
“the ramps.” All along the series. At Nos. 5–17, plaster

extensive, three-part stairway garlands drape over the
are gardens overflowing with doorways of this rare
blue hydrangeas, azaleas, palms, earthquake survivor. Turn left on
magnolias, and overarching Leavenworth Street, then right
pines and cypress trees. There onto Green Street. The block
is also a bench where tired between Hyde and
walkers can rest. At the bottom Leavenworth streets is also
of the steps at Taylor and Vallejo, called “the Paris Block” 7, a
stroll across the street to enjoy reference to the house at No.
the sun at tiny Coolbrith Park 5. 1050, which is reminiscent of
From here you can see islands those in Paris. A number of
in the bay, North Beach, the Bay buildings on the block are on
Bridge, and the lower Financial the National Register of Historic
District. On July 4th, locals
6 A local relaxing in Macondray Lane,
scene of TV’s Tales of the City
TAY L
Hyde Street
OR ST
JONE
RE ET
N ST
UNIO Continue west on Green Street
to Hyde Street where cafés and
S STR
REE
PL
N ST
RE ET WEBB shops cluster between Jackson
UNIO
T
E
and Union streets 8. Lovers of

ET
LANE
D R AY
6 MACO
N
all things French will like
LANE
MACO
N D R AY
RE ET Cocotte (at No. 1521), the
N ST
GREE boutiques, and charming
antiques shops. After browsing
N ST
RE ET here, catch a bus directly from
GREE
Hyde Street to various points
Coolbrith 5
Park across the city.
2
RU SS IA
T
EJO S
HI LL PL
V A L L R W AY
S TA I Tips for Walkers
N
1 4 N PL
ET FA LLO Starting point: The stone
FL O RE
STRE
EJO
VALL stairway at Jones and
TAY L
NC E ST
3 Vallejo streets.
JONE
Y
DWA Distance: 0.75 miles (1.2 km).
BROA
OR
RE ET
ER ST EL
GLOV Getting there: Take the Hyde–
TUNN
S STR
STRE
DWA
Y Powell cable car or the 45 Muni
DWA
Y BROA line to Vallejo Street and walk
E
BROA
ET
ET
EL east two blocks.

TUNN ET
BERN
ARD
STRE Stopping-off points: On Hyde
S TREE
T Street, Frascati (at 1901) caters to
ARD
BERN neighborhood regulars with a
pan-European menu of paella,
LEAV
Places, including the last and coq au vin in a cozy setting.

gather here to watch the firehouse built for horse-drawn
ENWO
The young and the hip hang out

fireworks display. vehicles, and, across the street, on leather love seats in the
the flamboyant 1857 Freusier
RTH
window of Bacchus Wine & Sake

Macondray Lane to Octagon House, with its Bar (at 1954).
STRE
Green Street mansard roof and cupola.

Proceed north on Taylor
ET
Street to Macondray Lane

6 on the left, which is
accessed by a creaky
stairway winding through
dense vegetation. Along the
two-block walkway are
shingled “Edwardian” cottages,
ballast stones from sailing ships,
and rustic country houses
set in flower gardens. This was
the setting for Barbary Lane
in Armistead Maupin’s Tales of
the City book and television Hyde Street, with its French-style boutiques, cafés, and antique shops
Scenic Yosemite Valley, Yosemite National Park
NORTHERN
CALIFORNIA
Exploring Northern
California 186–187
A Two-Day Tour to Carmel 188–189
A Two-Day Tour to
Mendocino 190–191
The Napa Wine Country 192–195
Redwood National Park, Lassen
Volcanic National Park, Sonoma
Valley, Sacramento 196–197
Lake Tahoe 198–201
Yosemite National Park 202–205
186  NORTHERN CALIFORNIA
Exploring Northern California

San Francisco sits at the apex of a beautiful, varied,
and historical region of California. The sheltered
valleys of the coastal ranges, perfect for
vineyards, have given visitors a rich array of Portland
Kla
Weed
wineries to explore, and the extensive coastline Etna
mat
Orick Mount
is ideal for relaxing on pristine beaches or REDWOOD
s
Shasta
in
nta y
birdwatching. There are scores of old,
ou it
NATIONAL PARK
h Mt
M T rin
fascinating towns, and visitors can ski or Thompson Peak
Mckinleyville
C loud
2741m
hike among the lofty summits of the Tr Clair Engle
Eureka in Lake
Sierra Nevada, all within a few hours of
Mc
Coa
ity Shasta
Humboldt Lake
the city. The excursions described on Bay
Weaverville
pages 188–205 have been selected
M
Ferndale Hayfork
ad
to give visitors a sample of what Redding Sa
st
Cape Scotia
cr
is on offer beyond San Francisco. Anderson
amento
Mendocino Weott
C e Sacra
Ran
Garberville Red
Bluff
n
ges
Corning
t r
Covelo
Chico
Laytonville Snow Mountain
2151m
men
a
Ee
Elk Creek
l
Fort
l
Bragg
to
Willits Willows
C A L I F O
MENDOCINO
Ukiah
Va
Upper Lake
Sa
cr
Clear
am
Boonville Lake lle
e
Point
nto
Clearlake
y
Lake Tahoe in winter Arena
Cloverdale
P
Middletown
Gualala
Sights at a Glance Mount St Helena
A
1324m
NAPA WINE
Calistoga
C
1 Carmel 6 Sonoma Valley COUNTRY

Santa Rosa
I F
2 Mendocino 7 Sacramento
3 Napa Valley Wine Country 8 Lake Tahoe Bodega Bay
Napa
4 Redwood National Park 9 Yosemite National Park SONOMA VALLEY
I C
Fairfield
5 Lassen Volcanic National Park Vallejo
Point Novato
Reyes Concord
Richmond
Berkeley
Oakland
San Francisco
San Mateo Fremont

Palo Alto
Pescadero San Jose

O C
Santa Cruz
Monterey
Bay
E A
Pacific Grove
CARMEL
N
Point Sur
Oak trees in Yosemite Valley in the fall
EXPLORING NORTHERN CALIFORNIA  187
0 kilometers 50
0 miles 50
Fall River Mills Picturesque houses in the rural town of Mendocino

Burney
Getting Around
LASSEN VOLCANIC Most visitors will want to explore the region by car.
NATIONAL PARK
Lassen Peak
Roads are good, and service stations and
Susanville
3187m accommodations are plentiful. All destinations are also
Chester Westwood accessible by Greyhound bus (see pp278–9). Organized
S Lake bus tours (see p281) can be arranged from San
Almanor
i Francisco to the Wine Country, allowing visitors to take
advantage of the many wine-tasting opportunities.
Doyle
e
Quincy Gambler Specials are an inexpensive way of getting to

Lake Tahoe by bus, and most offer special package
r
Portola
deals on hotels as well. A quicker, but more
r
Loyalton Salt Lake City

Paradise expensive, alternative is to fly to Reno,
a
Lake Reno Nevada, or South Lake Tahoe.

Oroville Downieville Sierra City Sparks
Mount Lola Yosemite is accessible by train
Biggs 2787m
Virginia City from Oakland to Merced, with
Truckee
R baN I A Donner Pass
2160m rson
bus connections included.
u n Tahoe Ca
erica Carson City
Y
Am City
Yuba City ork LAKE
F
TAHOE NEVADA Key
N
Minden
Lincoln Auburn South Lake Highway
Tahoe Freel Peak
S F o rk American 3317m Major road
Wellington
N
Woodland Secondary road

Placerville Markleeville
e
SACRAMENTO Other road

Mount Patterson
v
ne s e 3558m Scenic route

um el umn
os Mok Devils Gate
a
Jackson 2292m Main railroad

C
Arnold
d
Bridgeport Other railroad

Rio Vista Lodi Murphys Matterhorn Peak
a
State border
V
3738m
Y Mono
N AT O S E M
Summit
a
Stockton Jamestown Lake

ION ITE Pass
AL
l
Manteca El Capitan PA
2483m R K
l
Sa
Yosemite Village
e
El Portal
n
Modesto
Jo
Di
Mariposa Merced Peak

aq
y
Sa
3574m
ui
n
ab
Merced
lo
in
Jo
Gustine u
aq
Jo
aq
Morgan Hill Chowchilla

Los Banos
n
ui
Sa
San Luis Madera

Friant
n
Reservoir Dos
Palos a
V
Hollister ll
Castroville Mendota ey Fresno
R
Salinas
an
Monterey Bakersfield
Gonzales
ge
al
S
in
as Los Angeles
Mustard flowers growing in a Napa Valley vineyard

1 A Two-Day Tour to Carmel

Skirting cliffs and coves, pocket beaches, lighthouses,
parks, and old historic towns, coastal Hwy 1 is a highly
scenic route from San Francisco to Carmel. The region has
a colorful history, particularly in old Monterey, the original 1 101
capital of Spanish California. Carmel itself, a pretty seaside 580
town, has been a haven for artists and writers since the
early 20th century. Here you can visit the Carmel Mission,
burial place of Father Junipero Serra (see p139). SAN FRANCISCO 580
•
80
1
San Francisco to Santa Cruz renovation, though the grounds
Leaving the city at Pacifica, Hwy remain open. From here, side San
1 narrows to a two-lane road. roads climb into the Santa Cruz Francisco
At Sharp Park, you can hike to Mountains. The spectacular Ano Bay
Sweeny Ridge 1, a distance of Nuevo State Park 6 lies 20 miles
1.5 miles (2 km). From here, in (32 km) north of Santa Cruz, 92
1769, Gaspar de Portolá’s party of
Spanish explorers became the 101 84
first Europeans to see the Bay of
280
San Francisco (see pp24–5).
The strong currents and cold
waters of the Pacific discourage
most swimmers at the state-
84
owned beaches at Gray Whale
Pescadero •
Cove 2 and Montara. At low J
tide, the exposed rock pools
reach from Fitzgerald Marine Child at the Pumpkin Festival in Half
Preserve south to Pillar Point, Moon Bay 4
the most extensive along the
San Mateo County coast. along Hwy 1. You can make a
The fishing fleet still docks at reservation with a ranger to hike
nearby Princeton 3, while the a 3 mile (5 km) roundtrip to the
big event of the year at Half beach to see the colony of
Moon Bay 4 is the Pumpkin elephant seals.
Festival in October. Princeton’s 0 kilometers 20
main street retains the flavor of Santa Cruz to Monterey 0 miles 10
an old coastal town, and many At Monterey Bay’s northern end, Santa Cruz
Portuguese and Italian Santa Cruz offers some excellent
immigrants have settled here. swimming beaches. Though the Santa Cruz is famous for the
To the south, the countryside sandstone bridge of the Natural Boardwalk 8, an amusement
quickly becomes much less Bridges State Beach 7 park that stretches for 0.5 mile
populated. At Pigeon Point 5, disappeared long ago into the (1 km) along the beach. The
just south of Pescadero waves, the beach here is Big Dipper roller coaster has
(see p171), is a lighthouse built protected and provides a safe thrilled riders since 1923.
in 1872, which is closed for harbor for swimmers. From Santa Cruz the highway
curves around the bay to
Monterey, 28 miles (45 km)
away. Midway between them
is the University of California’s
marine science station at Moss
Landing 9, where visitors can
watch birds and learn about
the area’s flora and fauna.
Monterey to Pacific Grove

The first capital of California,
Monterey 0 was established
by the Spanish in 1770. Many
Spanish, Mexican, and early
American buildings still stand
Pigeon Point lighthouse 5 in the central part of the city.
A T W O - D AY TO U R TO C A R M E L  189
Tips for Travelers

Distance from San Francisco:
137 miles (220 km).
Duration of journey: About
4 hours, excluding stops.
Getting back to San Francisco:
Monterey Peninsula is linked to
US 101. It takes 2.5 hours to reach
San Francisco via San José.
When to go: The best weather is
in September and October, when
skies are clear and temperatures
average 70° F (21° C).
Fisherman’s Wharf, Monterey 0 Where to stay and eat: Santa
Cruz, Monterey, Carmel, Pacific
580 A free walking map, produced Grove, and Pebble Beach have a
by the Chamber of Commerce, wide selection of hotels, motels,
is readily available. This map and B&Bs, while Municipal Wharf
880
indicates sights such as Robert in Santa Cruz has numerous
Louis Stevenson’s home and snack bars. Restaurants abound in
Colton Hall, where California’s Monterey on Cannery Row and
first Constitution was written. Fisherman’s Wharf and Carmel
In the 1940s John Steinbeck, has a variety of eateries.
680 author of Cannery Row and Visitor information: Monterey
Peninsula Chamber of Commerce,
Tortilla Flat, wrote about
30 Ragsdale Dr, Suite 200,
Monterey, describing it as a
Monterey. Tel (831) 648-5350.
collection of sardine canneries ∑ montereychamber.com
• and whorehouses. The Monterey County Convention and
San spectacular Monterey Bay
Jose Visitors Bureau, 401 El Camino El
aquarium stands on the Estero, Monterey. Tel (831) 657-
101
3.3 acre (1 ha) site of the largest 6400. ∑ seemonterey.com
17
of the old canneries. The Carmel Chamber of Commerce,
galleries and exhibits at the Tel (831) 624-2522
Aquarium utilize the unique ∑ carmelcalifornia.org
marine habitats of the Bay
itself. On the edge of the
Monterey Peninsula is Pacific colony in the early 20th century,
Grove q, where in the autumn and there are more than 80 art
152
thousands of butterflies cluster galleries where visitors can
1 in the trees. The 17 Mile Drive browse. Many of the houses
w starts here, following a were designed by artists,
scenic route past the world- inspired perhaps by
famous golf courses of Pebble romanticized impressions of
Beach and Spyglass Hill. old France. The quaint streets,
156
The drive ends at Carmel e, quiet courtyards, and shops
Monterey
Bay with its quaint streets encourage strollers. Father
Aquarium and eccentric houses. Junipero Serra, founder of the
This hillside town missions, is buried in Mission
Salinas
• was founded as Carmel, which is one of the
J an artists’ most beautiful churches
68 in California.
Carmel
Key
Tour route
Main road
River The Mission at Carmel, dating from 1771 e
2 A Two-Day Tour to Mendocino

A trip to Mendocino will take you along the rugged
coastline of northern California, through wild
and unspoiled country, to a small picturesque Mendocino
J
town that was once a logging village. It became
a haven for artists in the 1950s, and was so well
restored that it was declared an historic
monument. Inland there are valleys with forests of
redwood trees, best seen from the “Skunk Train” out
of Fort Bragg, 10 miles (16 km) north of Mendocino. 1 29
one of California’s
prime oyster
growing estuaries.
Beyond the bay
the road winds Point Arena 253
101
inland for 30 miles
Hopland
(48 km) through the
dairy farms of west
Marin County, returning
to the coast at Bodega
Bay 3, where Alfred
Hitchcock filmed The
Birds in 1962.
Russian River and Fort Ross

Coastal redwoods North of Bodega Bay, Hwy 1
continues along the Pacific
Western Marin to coastline, reaching the wide
Bodega Bay mouth of the Russian River at 101
Start the trip north by crossing Jenner 4, where there is a broad
J
Golden Gate Bridge and then beach. Guerneville, the area’s

continue on US 101 through main town, lies up the river. The Guerneville
southern Marin County (see road climbs up the steep Jenner
pp162–3). At Mill Valley take a switchback of the Jenner Grade
turn west on to Hwy 1, which high above the Pacific, where
climbs up the 1,500 ft- (450 m-) you can stop to admire the
high coastal hills then hugs the views. On a windswept
Bodega
coast through Stinson Beach. At headland 12 miles (19 km) north Bay
the town of Point Reyes Station of Jenner you will find the Fort
1, you can detour left and Ross State Historic Park 5, a
follow the road leading to Point restored Russian fur trading
Reyes National Seashore (see outpost that stood from 1812
p162), which takes about two until it was closed in 1841. The
hours. Hwy 1 continues along original house of the fort’s last
the edge of Tomales Bay 2, manager, Alexander Rotchev, is
J
1
0 meters 20
0 yards 10
Key
Tour route
Other road
Johnson’s Beach at Guerneville, on the Russian River River

A T W O - D AY TO U R TO M E N D O C I N O  191
Tips for Travelers

Distance depends on the route,
but Mendocino is about 170 miles
(275 km) from San Francisco.
Duration of journey: Allow
10 to 12 hours for the one-way
journey, following the tour as
described. This takes in all detours
but excludes stops.
Getting back to San Francisco:
Take Hwy 1 south to Navarro
A “Skunk Train” on its way through the redwood forest River, then Hwy 128 to Cloverdale.
From here, follow US 101 south.
still intact, and other buildings Point Arena and Manchester When to go: Summer is the peak
have been carefully reconstructed State Beach tourist season, but fall has the
within a wooden palisade. The The drive continues through best weather, with sunny days
highlight is the Russian open meadows and cypress and lovely sunsets. Winter is wet
Orthodox chapel, built from groves to Point Arena 7. and mild, and gray whales are
local redwood in 1824. The Here visitors can climb up the often seen offshore. In spring the
park, which has a 147 steps in the old lighthouse hills are ablaze with wildflowers.
29
visitor center, is for a spectacular view of Where to stay and eat: A range
open from 10am the coast. of accommodations and services
are available along the route. Fort
to 4:30pm. Manchester State Beach 8
Bragg, Little River, Manchester,
Beyond Fort Ross, hugs the coastline for the next
Jenner, Hopland, and Boonville
Hwy 1 snakes 5 miles (8 km), and from here make good stopovers, and
along the coast, you can take a detour of about Mendocino has lovely bed-and-
passing through three hours to visit northern breakfast establishments.
175 several coastal state California’s breweries. Among Visitor information: Visit
parks, including the the best brews are Red Tail Ale Mendocino County, 120 S Franklin
Kruse Rhododendron from Mendocino Brewing in Street, Fort Bragg. Tel (866) 466-
128 29
Reserve 6. Hopland 9 on US 101, and 3636. ∑ visitmendocino.com
The best time to visit is Boont Amber, made in Mendocino Chamber of
during April and May, Boonville 0 in the heart of Commerce and Visitor Center,
when the flowers are the Anderson Valley. Both 217 S Main Street, Fort Bragg.
in bloom. This have pubs on the premises. Tel (707) 961-6300.
stretch of coast is Three miles (5 km) south of ∑ mendocinocoast.com
ruggedly Mendocino on Hwy 1 is Van
beautiful, with Damme State Park q, a red-
windswept wood forest with several good Mendocino e itself is tucked
headlands and hiking trails. Mendocino away west of the highway, on
hidden coves. Headlands State Park w is a rocky promontory above the
Napa a bit farther along the highway Pacific. The town has retained
– a greenbelt area where no much of the picturesque charm
development is of its logging days, and
allowed. although tourism is now its
main industry, it remains
unspoiled by commercialism,
and is a thriving center for
San the arts, ideal for a stroll
Pablo around.
Bay
SAN FRANCISCO
San Francisco
Bay
19th-century buildings in Mendocino e
3 Napa Valley Wine Country

The narrow Napa Valley, with its rolling hillsides
and fertile valley floor, is the heart and soul of
the California wine industry. It supports over 400
wineries, some dating from the 19th century,
with one or two down every country lane. Many
welcome visitors for tours and tastings, and each
Napa Valley Sign
part of the valley has its own distinctive wines This sign cheerfully welcomes
(see pp220–21). The rural beauty of the valley is visitors to the valley’s lush
striking at every season, and can be viewed from vineyards.
Calistoga
a balloon, a bike, or a train. Other attractions
include museums, galleries, and the hot springs
in Calistoga.
Clos Pegase Winery

With its free tours,
this winery actively
encourages visitors. St Helena
It is housed in an
award-winning
Postmodern building.
KEY Rutherford
1 Silverado Vineyards
2 Trefethen Vineyards
3 Hess Collection has both
distinctive wines and fine works
of art.
4 Domain Chandon produces
elegant sparkling wines.
5 Robert Mondavi Winery is
known for its innovative tour and
tasting programs.
6 Inglenook Estate dates back to
1879. Tours start from the original Napa Valley Wine Train
winery, now the tasting room. Gourmet meals and
excellent wines are served
7 Beaulieu Vineyard surrounds a
château-style building. on this luxury train as it
makes its 3-hour trip
8 Beringer Vineyards has along the valley, but some
operated continuously since 1876. passengers come just
9 Schramsberg Vineyards for the ride.
0 Old Faithful, a geyser, discharges
hot water and steam every 30
minutes or so.
q Frog’s Leap Winery
w Duckhorn Vineyards Napa
e Mumm Napa Valley is known for
its classic sparkling wines.
Key
r Clos du Val, despite its small
size, has a reputation for high- Road
quality wines. River
t The Silverado Trail is a quiet Vineyard
road that offers fine views over-
Railroad
looking the vineyards.
Silverado Trail

N A PA vA l l e y W I N e C O U N T R y  193
Sterling Vineyard
Perched on a rocky
knoll overlooking the
vineyards below, this
unusual Greek style
winery is reached via
an overhead gondola.
The tour is marked by
signs, allowing visitors
to set their own pace.
V. Sattui Winery
French oak barrels are used for aging
the wine in some wineries.
Lake
Hennesey
Joseph Phelps Vineyard

Grape-pickers harvest the year’s crop in
one of California’s most prestigious
Oakville wineries. Tours are by appointment.
Tips for Travelers

55 miles (120 km).
Yountville Duration of journey: About 1
hour to Napa.
Getting there: Take US 101
north, then Hwy 37 to Vallejo,
then Hwy 29 to Napa. Hwy 29
runs along the valley to Calistoga.
Several bus companies offer
tours, often including lunch.
When to go: In early spring the
fields are carpeted with bright
yellow mustard. Grapes begin to
ripen in the summer heat. In
Focus on Sustainable Farming September and October grapes
are harvested and pressed, and
In order to ensure best agricultural practices in the vine leaves turn gold and red.
area, the Napa Valley Vintners Winter is when the pace slows, the
formed a voluntary program called vines are pruned in preparation,
Napa Green. So far, more than and new wine is bottled.
61,000 acres are enrolled in the Where to stay and eat: For
program, with 35,000 acres already information, visit
certified. The certification is carried ∑ visitnapavalley.com
out by an independent third party Visitor information: Napa Valley
and is awarded when all best land Welcome Center, 600 Main St,
and production practice criteria Healthy vines in the carefully monitored
Napa. Tel (707) 251-5895 or
are met. Napa Valley region
(1-855) 847-NAPA.
194  NoRtheRN CALIfoRNIA
Exploring Napa Valley Wine Country Adams. Evolved beyond a

winery to a nature and art
Napa Valley specializes in rich, distinctive wines, designer setting, di Rosa Preserve
winery buildings, modern art collections, spas, Michelin-rated features a lake, a glass chapel,
restaurants, and artisan crafts. Indulging in a few wine tastings the Gatehouse Gallery, and
gardens to showcase artists’
with a picnic and some shopping can easily consume one day.
work from California and the
A dawn balloon ride, mud-bath treatment, and visits to art San Francisco Bay Area.
galleries will fill another. Before 1976, the phylloxera louse, The Napa Valley Museum
Prohibition, and dull flavors haunted Napa winemakers. In features regular exhibitions
that year, Chateau Montelena Chardonnay and Stag’s Leap showcasing the work of local
Cabernet Sauvignon won a blind tasting competition in Paris, and national artists. Other art
galleries and public art walks
and with a fresh marketing approach from Robert Mondavi throughout the valley add to
the Napa Valley morphed into a competitive wine region with the ample opportunities for
wineries in every field and on every hillock. cultural exploration.
fans should head to Mumm Architecture

Napa, Domaine Chandon, and There are many buildings of
Domaine Carneros. architectural note in the valley.
The hospitality center at St.
Helena’s Beringer Vineyards, the
Art Museums and oldest continuously operating
Galleries winery in the area, is the Rhine
Wineries are a superb venue for House, dating from 1883, with
art exhibits, adding cultural wooden paneling, a long bar,
cachet to the experience. and stained-glass windows.
The Hess Collection gallery Whitewashed, Mykonos-style
has the contemporary European Sterling Vineyards perches
and US painting and sculpture prettily on a Calistoga hill, while
collection of owner Donald Robert Mondavi Winery
Wine tasting at one of Napa Valley’s Hess and includes artists Robert adopted a California Mission
many wineries Motherwell and Frank Stella. style, with statues of animals
Artesa Winery’s visitor center and St. Francis by renowned
features artist-in-residence sculptor Beniamino Bufano.
Wine Tasting Gordon Huether’s glass, metal, Architect Michael Graves was
∑ napavintners.com/wineries and canvas art. Clos Pegase has commissioned to design the
a famed modern-era sculpture Clos Pegase Winery, with its
Many wineries have tasting garden, and Peju Province’s spare, Post-Modern lines. Some
rooms for sampling of the contemporary art collection is wineries, like Domaine Carneros
latest bottling, or will do so by on display in its Liana Gallery. by Taittinger, acknowledge
appointment. Employees know Mumm Napa’s Fine Art French winemaking roots with
products, prices, the character- photography galleries offer grand chateau structures. In
istics of a vineyard’s soil, and changing exhibitions, while the 2004, in deference to his origins,
the climate that gives each Private Collection Gallery Darioush Khaledi gave the
wine its flavor. Some wineries includes images by famed Silverado Trail a row of columns
offer tours with a tasting at the photographers such as Ansel leading to his golden Darioush
end. Visitor volume and tasting-
room popularity have inspired
some wineries to charge for
tastings and tours. Robert
Mondavi Winery and
Cakebread Cellars are just two
of several that bustle with
tastings, tours, and cooking
demonstrations. Grgich Hills
Cellars, Chateau Montelena
Winery, Duckhorn Vineyards,
Franciscan Oakville Estates, V.
Sattui Winery, and Beaulieu
Vineyard are among dozens
that have wines with distinctive
styles to taste. Sparkling wine The Rhine House at Beringer Vineyards
N a pa Va L L E Y w i N E C o u N t r Y  195
locally produced oils, herbs, and

honey. Some spas overlook
vineyards or are located in caves
similar to those used to age the
area’s wines.
Shopping
A winery tasting room may be
the only place to taste and
buy a delightful wine that is
in limited production, and
veteran wine-country shoppers
advise visitors to taste and
buy on the spot. Wineries will
Hot-air balloon rides over Napa Valley Wine Country vineyards check legal restrictions on
shipping to other states or
winery building built to look like Pullman Dining and Lounge internationally. Winery gift
Persepolis, Persia’s ancient Cars. Special itineraries stop shops stock everything from
capital city. for tours of Domaine Chandon, cookbooks to corkscrews,
Castello di Amorosa, or Grgich embellished with the estab-
Hills Winery. Informal wine lishment’s name. Comestibles,
Balloon, Bicycle, and tasting seminars are conducted convenient for picnics, are
Train Travel in the Napa Valley Wine Train’s also often on sale.
Napa Valley Wine Train, 1275 McKinstry McKinstry station before At the Oakville Grocery on
St, Napa, CA 94559. Reservations Tel passengers board the sleek Highway 29 you can buy
(707) 253-2111. ∑ winetrain.com gold and maroon train. local wines, condiments, and
Themed events are organized olive oils, or order a sandwich
Pre-dawn Napa Valley skies in the glass-topped dining car piled with local cheese and
reveal a parade of colorful hot- including a five-course meats. Alternatively, visit
air balloons ascending above Moonlight Escape Dinner held Oxbow Public Market in
vineyards or descending to each full moon, and 1915 is downtown Napa to find an
almost touch the tops of vines. recreated on Murder Mystery emporium of artisan food
Prevailing winds coming north Theatre Gourmet Dinner trips. producers.
from San Francisco Bay dictate St. Helena’s Main Street is
the early launch. Morning fog a boutique lover’s paradise.
makes the journey surreal and Spas There is also an outpost of
chilly, warmed by the balloon See ∑ visitnapavalley.com for Dean & DeLuca – New York’s
burner’s flame. Floating above information on the local spas. famed artisan food temple. It is
the orderly rows of vineyards a great place to shop for fresh
and springtime fields of yellow Calistoga, at Napa Valley’s north local Napa-area produce and
mustard is rewarded upon end, is literally a hotbed of 1,400 California wines. The V
landing with a traditional geothermal activity. Natural Marketplace has clothing and
toast of sparkling wine, hot springs and local volcanic wine shops, a wine-tasting
often accompanied by a mud from an ancient eruption room, and several art galleries.
gourmet breakfast. of Mount St. Helena created an
Cyclists find the long, industry here today that was
generally flat valley a delight, started thousands of years ago.
and take to the Silverado Trail Many of the spas are located
on the valley’s east side to visit on Calistoga’s main streets, but
some of the more than 30 there are also numerous other
wineries on the route between places to visit scattered
Napa and Calistoga. Summer throughout the valley.
heat is most intense in the Mud-bath treatments are a
afternoon. Savvy cyclists start return to a natural form of
early to avoid traffic that can relaxation, and for some,
be congested on weekends detoxification and rejuvenation.
and holidays. Guests immerse their bodies in
The Napa Valley Wine Train a tub filled with brown mud
trip from Napa to St. Helena consisting of peat, clay, and
and back lasts 3 hours. Tours mineral water from the local
include lunch or dinner hot springs. An array of other
prepared on board, and therapeutic treatments have
served in restored 1915–17 been developed that integrate The luxurious Napa Valley Wine Train
4 Redwood
National Park
Information Center 1111 Second St,
Crescent City. Tel (707) 465-7335.
Arcata to Crescent City is 78 miles
(125 km). Best route is US Hwy 101.
∑ nps.gov/redw
Some of the largest original

redwood forests in the world
are preserved in this national
park. Stretching along the
coastline, the 91 sq mile
(235 sq km) park includes
many smaller state parks and Lassen Volcanic National Park
can be explored along a day-
long drive. A two-day trip, southern end, are great for 6 Sonoma Valley
however, allows time to walk spotting migrating gray whales
* 8,600. ~ @ 90 Broadway &
away from the roads and in winter. Rock pools abound
W Napa Sts, Sonoma Plaza. n 453 1st
experience the tranquility of the with smaller marine life. St E, (707) 996-1090. _ Valley of the
stately groves, or spot one of Moon Vintage Festival (late Sep).
the world’s last remaining herds
of Roosevelt elk. 5Lassen Volcanic Nestling picturesquely in the
The park’s headquarters National Park crescent-shaped Sonoma Valley
are in Crescent City, a few @ Chester, Red Bluff. Visitor Center
are 9 sq miles (24 sq km) of
miles north of which lies the Tel (530) 595-4480. Open daily. beautiful vineyards. At the foot of
14 sq mile (37 sq km) Jedediah ∑ nps.gov/lavo the valley lies the tiny town of
Smith Redwoods State Park, Sonoma. This town has had a
with the most awe-inspiring Before the eruption of Mount St. colorful past, as it was here on
coastal redwoods. Named after Helens in Washington in 1980, June 14, 1846 that about 30
the fur trapper Jedediah Smith, the 10,457 ft- (3,187 m-) high armed American farmers
the first white man who walked Lassen Peak was the last captured Mexican General
across the US, it has excellent volcano to erupt on mainland Mariano Vallejo and his men, to
campground facilities. South US. In nearly 300 eruptions protest the fact that land
from Crescent City, the Trees between 1914 and 1917, it laid ownership was reserved for
of Mystery grove features 156 sq miles (405 sq km) of the Mexican citizens. They seized
remarkable-looking giant surrounding land to waste. control of Sonoma, declared
fiberglass statues. Lassen Peak is considered to California an independent
The park’s main attraction is be still active. Numerous areas republic, and flew their own flag,
the world’s tallest tree, a 368 ft on its flanks show clear signs of with a crude drawing of a grizzly
(112 m) giant, standing in the the geological processes. The bear. Although the republic was
Tall Trees Grove. Farther south boardwalk trail of Bumpass Hell annulled 25 days later when the
is Big Lagoon, a freshwater lake (named for an early guide, who United States annexed California,
stretching for 3 miles (5 km) and lost his leg in a boiling mudpot the Bear Flag design was
two other estuaries. Together, in 1865) leads past a series of adopted as the official state
they form Humboldt Lagoons steaming sulfurous pools of flag in 1911.
State Park. The headlands at boiling water, heated by molten Sonoma’s main attractions are
Patrick’s Point State Park, at the rock deep underground. In its world-famous wineries and
summer, visitors can take meticulously preserved historical
the winding road through sites around the Spanish-style
the park, climbing more than plaza. Many of the adobe
8,500 ft (2,590 m) to Summit buildings house wine shops,
Lake. The road continues boutiques, and restaurants
winding its way through the serving excellent local cuisine.
so-called Devastated Area, a East of the plaza is the restored
bleak gray landscape of rough Mission San Francisco Solano
volcanic mudflows, which de Sonoma, the last of
terminates at the Manzanita California’s 21 historic Franciscan
Lake, and the Loomis Museum. missions (founded by Father José
Altimira of Spain in 1823). Today,
E Loomis Museum all that survives of the original
Lassen Park Rd, N Entrance. building is the corridor of his
Tel (530) 595-4444. Open late May– quarters. The adobe chapel was
Coastal redwood trees late Sep only; call for times. built by General Vallejo in 1840. A
NORTHERN CALIFORNIA  197
short drive northward leads to Sonoma Valley Wineries

the Jack London State Historic
Park. In the early 1900s, London, The Sonoma Valley has a rare combination
author of The Call of the Wild and of soil, sun, and rain perfect for growing
The Sea Wolf, abandoned his superior wine grapes. In 1824, Father José
hectic lifestyle to live in this Altimira planted Sonoma’s first grapevines
1 sq mile (3 sq km) expanse of to produce sacramental wine for mass at
the Mission San Francisco Solano de Sonoma.
oaks, madrones, and redwoods.
In 1834, General Vallejo replanted the vines and
The park retains eerie ruins of
sold the wine he made to San Francisco
London’s dream home, the Wolf The arms of the
merchants. In 1857, Hungarian Count
House, mysteriously destroyed Sebastiani Vineyards
Agoston Haraszthy planted the nation’s
by fire just before completion. first European varietals at Sonoma’s Buena Vista Winery, now the
After London’s death, his widow, oldest premium winery in the state.
Charmian Kittredge, built a The Sonoma Valley includes the Sonoma Valley, Carneros, and
magnificent home on the Sonoma Mountain wine-growing regions. The climate varies slightly
ranch, called the House of creating different environments suitable for particular grape varieties,
Happy Walls. Today it is a including Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Today, Sonoma
museum, worth a visit for its has more than 50 wineries,
display of London memorabilia. which produce millions of
cases of wine a year. Some
P Mission San Francisco Solano of the most notable
de Sonoma wineries in the area are
114 E Spain St. Tel (707) 938-9560. Sebastiani Vineyards,
Open 10am–5pm daily. & St. Francis Winery,
Gundlach-Bundschu
Y Jack London State Winery, and Château
Historic Park St. Jean. Most wineries
London Ranch Rd, Glen Ellen. Tel (707) have picnic areas, free
938-5216. Park & Museum: Open Mar– wine tastings, and tours. Vineyards in the Sonoma Valley
Nov: 9:30am–5pm daily. Cottage:
Open noon–4pm Thu–Mon. & 7
museum only. 8 railroad and Pony Express had its east, Sutter’s Fort is the town’s
∑ jacklondonpark.com their western terminus here, restored original settlement.
with riverboats providing
passage to San Francisco. E California State Railroad
7 Sacramento The California State Railroad Museum
Museum houses some fine, old 111 I St. Tel (916) 445-7387. Open
k £ @ 30, 31, 32. Old Sacramento 10am–5pm daily (to 8pm Thu in
locomotives. A little away from
Visitor Center: 1002 2nd St, Old summer months). Closed Jan 1,
Sacramento. Tel (916) 442-8575. the old city, the State Capitol
stands in a landscaped park. To Thanksgiving, Dec 25. ∑ csrmf.org
Open 10am–5pm daily.
∑ oldsacramento.com
California State Capitol
Founded by John Sutter in 1839, Designed in 1860 in grand Renaissance
California’s capital city has many Revival style, this building was completed
historic buildings along the in 1874. Housing the office of the
waterfront in Old Sacramento. governor and the state senate
Most date from the 1850s, when chambers, the Capitol also serves as
it became the supply point a museum of the state’s political
for miners. Both the and cultural history.
transcontinental
The Capitol Rotunda

was restored to its
original 19th-century
splendor in 1975.
Original 1860
statuary
Entrance
The Historic Offices on the first floor

contain a few government offices restored
to their turn-of-the-century appearance.
8 Lake Tahoe
One of the most beautiful bodies of water in the
world, Lake Tahoe lies in an alpine bowl on the border
between Nevada and California. Surrounded by
forested peaks, its shoreline measures 72 miles
(116 km). The spectacular setting led Mark Twain,
who spent a summer here in the 1860s, to coin it
“surely the fairest picture the earth affords.” Calling
itself a year-round playground, Tahoe today has ski
resorts, gambling, hiking trails, lakeside cabins,
historic architecture, and special summer events
including the Lake Tahoe Shakespeare Festival.
Ehrman Mansion and Visitor Center
This Queen Anne-style summer home was
built in 1903. It opens for tours in summer.
Rubicon Bay Meeks Bay
Marla Bay
KEY
1 Cave Rock
2 Stateline is Lake Tahoe’s main
gambling center, with many casinos.
3 Heavenly Aerial Tram
4 South Lake Tahoe
5 Tahoe Keys
6 Vikingsholm Castle, built in
1929, is a replica of a Scandinavian
Castle now open to visitors
in summer.
7 Emerald Bay State Park is
wooded, isolated wilderness, with its
granite crags and waterfalls, is one of
the natural wonders of California.
8 US Forest Service Visitor Center
9 DL Bliss State Park
0 Homewood is a popular ski
resort in winter, with spectacular
views all year.
q Kaspian picnic area
w Tahoe City is the focal point
for shopping and nightlife in
North Tahoe.
e Stateline Point
r Incline Village is a small, Zephyr Cove and MS Dixie
sophisticated ski town. Many visitors enjoy touring the lake on a stern-wheeler
t Lake Tahoe State Park paddle boat. The MS Dixie makes regular trips from
Zephyr Cove.
L A K E TA H O E  199
Skiing Around
Lake Tahoe
The peaks surrounding Lake
Tahoe, particularly those on the
California side, are famous for
their many ski resorts. These
include the world-class Alpine
Meadows and Squaw Valley,
where the Winter Olympics
were held in 1960. The area
is a sunny paradise for both
Ski slopes near Lake Tahoe
downhill and cross-country
skiers, with miles of runs with splendid views of the lake. and challenging slopes for
through pine forests and open Skiing offers something for advanced skiers, as well as gentle
meadows, and down ridges everyone, with powder areas snow bowls for beginners.
McKinney Bay
Agate Bay
Crystal Bay
Sand Incline Beach

Harbor
Glenbrook Bay Chimney Beach
Tips for Travelers

200 miles (320 km).
Duration of journey: About
4 hours to reach Tahoe.
Getting there: At Sacramento,
either take I-80 to the north
shore, or US 50 to the south
shore. Amtrak trains go to
Truckee, where you can rent
a car. Greyhound buses and
limited flights from the Bay
Area serve South Lake Tahoe.
When to go: Peak seasons are
July and August, and December,
when ski resorts are open. Spring
and fall are less crowded, but
some facilities may be closed.
Where to stay and eat: For ideas
and suggestions, contact the
visitor information centers.
Visitor information: Lake Tahoe
Visitors Authority, South Lake
Tahoe: ∑ tahoesouth.com Tel
(775) 588-5900. North Lake Tahoe
Nevada Shore during Summer Visitors Bureau: Tel (1-888) 434-
Lake Tahoe’s wild, unspoiled Nevada shoreline is popular with cyclists 1262. ∑ gotahoenorth.com
and hikers and has some fine sandy beaches.
200  NoRTheRN CaLIfoRNIa
Exploring Lake Tahoe

Beauty, size, and a unique alpine setting distinguish Lake
Tahoe from other lakes in the US. It is sometimes compared
to Russia’s Lake Baikal despite much more lakeshore
development. Lake Tahoe offers outstanding pedestrian and
bike-accessible views from a loop trail, which took some 20
years to build, as well as a variety of water-based sports. There
are distinctive historic mansions built as summer getaways for Winter Olympic Games, Squaw Valley, 1960
the rich; and a choice of California or Nevada views from
casino rooms at Stateline and the Crystal Bay Corridor. Squaw Valley
8 miles northwest of Tahoe City.
and terrain. The most rugged Tel (800) 403-0206. ∑ squaw.com
segment is on the western
side of the lake. Squaw Valley landed on the
international ski map as host
of the VIII Winter Olympic
Sports on the Lake
Games in 1960. This was the site
Fishing trips are a popular of the first televised Olympics
form of recreation on Lake and an opening-ceremony
Tahoe. Visitors may prefer a snowfall arrived just in time to
challenging search for one of ensure a sufficient base for
the large Mackinaw trout that downhill events.
swim up to 400 ft (122 m) Today, the Olympic Flame
below the surface, or angling and original Tower of Nations
for rainbow or brown trout or still remain at the valley’s
Hiking along one of Lake Tahoe’s Kokanee salmon. entrance. This all-season resort
many trails Motorboats, some with water- includes more than 30 lifts,
skiers or wakeboarders in tow, shopping and restaurants
speed across the lake, and those facilities, and accommodation.
Tahoe Rim Trail
in search of a further adrenaline Winter skiers and snow-
Tel (775) 298-4485 rush can also rent waverunners. boarders can expect an
∑ tahoerimtrail.org Sailors and kitesurfers are average of 450 inches of
challenged by winds coming annual snowfall. High Camp,
Hikers, equestrians, and down from the Sierra peaks. at 8,200 ft (4,500 m) above sea
mountain bikes can travel on Hang- and paragliders enjoy level, has magnificent views of
most stretches of the eight views of the blue waters from Lake Tahoe. There is also a
segments that complete the above, while canoes and kayaks 1960 Olympic Winter Games
Tahoe Rim Trail’s (TRT) 165 mile are a silent way to explore Museum, a year-round ice
(266 km) loop. The TRT is open hidden coves and shorelines. pavilion for skating, an indoor
from snowmelt, usually in June, Scuba divers seeking climbing wall, a swimming
until the first major snowfall, underwater forests or monster pool, guided hikes through
normally in October. Some of trout can enter the 100 ft (30 m) slopes of wildflowers, and
Lake Tahoe’s most scenic vistas visibility freshwater lake from full-moon night walks to the
are accessible on this trail, which sloping beaches or kayaks. valley floor.
features beautiful pine and
aspen forests, huge grey granite
boulders, alpine meadow
wildflowers, and streams. Alpine
elevations range from 6,300 ft
(1,920 m) to 10,300 ft (3,150 m).
Moderate trails, with an
average ten percent grade,
are indicated with light blue
triangular trailhead signs, though
the TRT can be accessed almost
anywhere along its well-
constructed dirt path. The
pedestrian-only 1.3 mile (2 km)
Tahoe Meadows Interpretive Trail
at the north end is a quick
introduction to TRT scenery Kayaking on the clear waters of Lake Tahoe
l a k e ta h o e  201
Emerald Bay and the Eagle Falls trail
waters. Emerald Bay is also a

Stateline Ehrman Mansion
protected Underwater Park,
Situated on the border of where scuba divers can Sugar Point Pine St Pk. Tel (530) 525-
California and the more liberal explore an ancient underwater 7982 (Tour information: (530)
state of Nevada, Stateline is the forest, and wrecked dorries 525-7232. Open Jul–Labor Day.
main gambling town of the Lake and barges. 8 Memorial Day–late Sep:
Tahoe region. In the 1860s, 10am–3pm daily. & $10 (adults).
Comstock Silver prospectors
Vikingsholm Castle
journeyed to Virginia City Banker Isaias W. Hellman joined
through Lakeside and Emerald Bay St Pk. Tel (530) 525-9530. other wealthy landowners
Edgewood, and Pony Express Open mid-Jun–Labor Day. building summer homes
riders made this their last stop in ∑ vikingsholm.org around Lake Tahoe in 1903.
Nevada. In 1873, a formal state Hellman engaged architect
border was established along the Mrs. Lora Josephine Knight’s William Danforth Bliss to design
southern end of Lake Tahoe. summerhouse, completed in a Queen Anne-style residence
There are rooms in the hotel- 1929, is a fine example of 11th- in the most sophisticated rustic
casinos here where your feet century Scandinavian architec- style. The Ehrman Mansion is
can straddle both states. Views ture, complete with turrets, sod three stories high, consisting of
of either state are fine, but the roofs, and carved dragons. Mrs. redwood-paneled walls and
west has prized California views Knight visited Scandinavia with bright, large windows. A palatial
of the lake, shore, forests, her architect in 1928 to gather veranda with rustic chairs for
and mountains. ideas for the castle’s design. rocking and lounging looks
Using local wood and granite, down over Lake Tahoe.
200 artisans handmade, planed, A wood-burning steam
Emerald Bay
carved, stained, and painted generator produced electric
22 miles (35 km) south of Tahoe City. Vikingsholm’s outer walls and lighting, the latest in modern
Tel (530) 541-3030. interiors. The gaily-painted technology, until the arrival of
furniture and textiles are also commercial energy in 1927,
The most famous postcard view replicated, down to hand-forged and there was also a modern
of Lake Tahoe depicts the deep hinges and latches. plumbing system.
blue green waters of Emerald
Bay, with tiny Fannette Island in
the middle. The granite rock of Lake Tahoe Facts
Fannette Island is thought to More than two million years ago, rain and snow formed a lake at the
have been resistant to the south end of this valley, between two parallel sections of Earth crust.
glacial ice, and the surviving Ice Age glaciers shaped the lake into a round bowl that averages a
stone ruins here were once a depth of 990 ft (300 m) but plunges to 1,685 ft (515 m) below the
private teahouse. surface at one point. North
Emerald Bay, 3 miles (4.8 km) America’s third-deepest lake, Lake
long, is the best-known feature Tahoe is 22 miles (35 km) long by
of the state park that adopts its 12 miles (19 km) wide. It lies 6,300
name. The three-tiered Eagle Falls ft (1,920 m) above sea level and
extends over 193 sq miles (99 sq
cascades through the park 500 ft
km). The deep, fresh, and clear
(152 m) down to Vikingsholm, emerald green and dark sapphire
and visitors can walk the trail. blue water of this seemingly
The glacier-sculpted bay endless lake is estimated to be
became a National Natural 99.7 percent pure – the quality
Landmark in 1969 and draws of distilled water. The surrounding peaks of Lake Tahoe
kayakers to explore its calm
9 Yosemite National Park

A wilderness of evergreen forests, alpine meadows,
and sheer walls of granite, most of Yosemite National
Park is accessible only to hikers or horse riders. The
spectacular Yosemite Valley, however, is easily reached
by vehicle along 200 miles (320 km) of paved roads.
Soaring cliffs, plunging waterfalls, gigantic trees,
rugged canyons, mountains, and valleys give Yosemite
its incomparable beauty.
Upper Yosemite Fall

In two mighty leaps linked by a
cascade, Yosemite Creek drops
Yosemite Chapel (1879) 2,425 ft (739 m).
This wooden church is all
that is left of the Old Village.
KEY
1 Sentinel Dome is reachable

from Glacier Point Road.
2 Sentinel Rock
3 Bicycle rental
4 Lower Yosemite Fall
5 Yosemite Village
6 Yosemite Museum
7 The Valley Visitor Center
Behind the Valley Visitor Center,
an American Indian village can
be explored.
8 Ahwahnee Hotel is renowned
for its rustic architecture, elegant
decor, and beautiful views.
9 North Dome
0 Washington Column
q Quarter Domes
w Tenaya Canyon
e Mirror Lake
r Tenaya Creek
t Liberty Cap
y Nevada Fall
u Merced River
i Camp Curry
o Winter ice skating
View from Glacier Point
p Staircase Falls The 3,200 ft (975 m) brink of Glacier Point
provides a fine view down Tenaya Canyon.
YO S E M I T E N AT I O N A L PA R K  203
Beyond the Valley

From May to October,
shuttle buses carry
visitors to Mariposa
Grove, 35 miles (56 km)
south of Yosemite Valley,
where the Grizzly Giant is
the largest and oldest
sequoia tree in the Park.
Northeast, Tuolumne
Meadows is the largest
Sierra alpine meadow
and a good place to
see deer and bears.
Giant sequoia tree
Half Dome in Autumn

A formidable trail climbs to the top
of this polished cliff jutting above
the wooded valley floor.
0 meters 1,500
0 yards 1,500
Tips for Travelers

180 miles (312 km).
Duration of journey: About 4
hours to reach Yosemite.
Getting there: From Stockton,
Hwy 120 is the fastest route; Hwy
140, the All-Weather Highway, is
prettier and preferable in winter.
Bus tours operate to Yosemite
Valley (see p281), but a rental car is
advisable for other parts.
Key When to go: Waterfalls are fullest
Road May & Jun. Peak season is Jun–
Aug. Crowds diminish Sep & Oct.
Bicycle route
Snow can close many roads: tire
Suggested walk chains are required between
Paths and trails Nov–Apr (weather-dependent).
Where to stay and eat:
Rivers
Accommodation ranges from
rustic tent shelters to lodges. All
hotels have good restaurants.
Visitor information: Valley Visitor
Center, Yosemite Village. Tel (209)
Vernal Fall 372-0200. ∑ nps.gov/yose
The Merced River pours into Tel (209) 372-0200 (24-hour park,
its canyon over the 317 ft weather, and traffic info).
(97 m) lip of this waterfall.
Exploring Yosemite National Park

Some of the world’s most beautiful mountain terrain is
protected within the 1,170 sq miles (3,030 sq km) of Yosemite
National Park. Hordes of visitors descend upon the park each
year to admire its breathtaking views, formed by millions of
years of glacial activity. Each season offers a different
experience, from the swelling waterfalls in spring to the rustic
colors of autumn. The summer months are the most crowded,
but during the snowbound winter months several roads are
inaccessible. Fall is the best time to visit, when temperatures are
mild and crowds are reduced. Bus tours, cycle paths, hiking trails,
and roads are all aimed at leading visitors from one awe-
inspiring panoramic scene to another.
Upper Yosemite Falls, swollen with ice-melt
} Half Dome the Sierra crest, scything off rock in the spring
Eastern end of Yosemite Valley. and depositing it downstream.
Open daily (weather permitting). The 8,840 ft (2,695 m) summit of (740 m) in three great drops:
At nearly 1 mile (1.6 km) above Half Dome offers an amazing Upper Yosemite, Middle Cascade,
the valley floor, the silhouette of view of the valley. The 9-mile and Lower Yosemite Falls. One of
Half Dome has become a (14 km) trail from Happy Isles the most recognizable features
symbol of Yosemite. Its curved trailhead to the peak can be of the park, the cascades are
back rises to a peak, before strenuous and long, taking visible all over the valley.
dropping vertically down to the around 10 to 12 hours. The top of Upper Yosemite
valley. Geologists believe that Fall, by far the longer and more
Half Dome is not half, but three- } Yosemite Falls elegant of the pair, can be
quarters of its original size. It is North Yosemite Valley. Open daily. reached via a strenuous 7 mile
thought that as recently as Yosemite Falls are the highest (11 km) round-trip trail. The
15,000 years ago glacial ice floes waterfalls in North America and Lower Fall is easier to visit, via a
moved through the valley from tumble from a height of 2,425 ft short trail that starts next to
Yosemite Lodge and frames an
unforgettable view of both falls.
As with all the park’s waterfalls,
the Yosemite Falls are at their
peak in May and June, when the
winter snows melt and fill the
creek to capacity. Conversely, by
September the falls often dry up
and disappear altogether, their
presence marked only by a dark
stain on the granite wall.
} Vernal and Nevada Falls

Eastern end of Yosemite Valley.
Open daily.
A popular half-day hike in
Yosemite National Park is the
Mist Trail, which visits these two
waterfalls. The first fall on the
7 mile (11 km) round trip is
Vernal Fall, which plunges 320 ft
(95 m) and spreads its spray
across the trail (carry a poncho
or rain jacket in spring.) The trail
can be strenuous for the 2 miles
(3 km) to the top of Nevada Fall,
which drops an impressive 595
ft (180 m). Here, the Mist Trail
joins the John Muir Trail, which
runs around the back of Half
Dome all the way south to the
Sheer drop of El Capitán summit of Mount Whitney.
YO S E M I T E N AT I O N A L PA R K  205
} Glacier Point
Glacier Point Rd. Open May–Oct: daily.
The great Yosemite panorama
can be experienced from Glacier
Point, which rests on a rocky
ledge 3,215 ft (980 m) above
the valley floor. Most of the
waterfalls and other features of
Yosemite Valley are visible from
here, but the dominant feature
is Half Dome. The panorama
also includes much of the
surrounding landscape, a Tunnel View, looking across Yosemite Valley
beautiful area of alpine peaks
and meadows. the grove. Parts of the grove, } Tuolumne Meadows
Glacier Point can be reached including some trails, are Hwy 120, Tioga Rd.
only during the summer. The temporarily closed from Open May–Nov daily.
road is blocked by snow during summer 2015 until the end In summer, when the snows
winter at Badger Pass, which of 2016. have melted and the wild-
was developed in 1935 as flowers are in full bloom, the
California’s first commercial ski } Tunnel View best place to experience the
resort. Another summer route is Hwy 41 overlooking Yosemite Valley. striking beauty of the Yosemite
the Four-Mile Trail, which begins Open daily. landscape are these sub-alpine
at the western side of the valley. One of the most photographed meadows along the Tuolumne
Summer bus services also allow views of Yosemite can be seen River. Located 55 miles (88 km)
hikers to ride up to Glacier Point from this lookout on Hwy 41 at from Yosemite Valley via Tioga
then hike down to the valley. the western end of the valley. Road, Tuolumne Meadows are
Despite the name, which is also a base for hikers setting
} Mariposa Grove taken from the highway tunnel off to explore the area’s many
Visitor Center Hwy 41, South that leads to Glacier Point Road, granite peaks and trails.
Entrance. Open mid-May–Oct: daily. the view is incredible, with El
At the southern end of Yosemite, Capitán on the left, Bridalveil
this beautiful grove was one of Fall on the right, and Half Dome
the main reasons the park was at the center.
established. More than 500 giant
sequoia trees can be seen here, } El Capitán
some of which are more than Northwestern end of Yosemite Valley.
3,000 years old, 250 ft (75 m) tall Open daily.
and more than 30 ft (9 m) in Standing guard at the western
diameter at their base. A series entrance to Yosemite Valley, the
of hiking trails winds through granite wall of El Capitán rises A pair of mule deer roaming Yosemite’s
more than 3,500 ft meadows
(1,070 m) above the
valley floor. One of P Ahwahnee Hotel
the largest granite Yosemite Valley. Tel (801) 559-4884.
monoliths in the Open daily.
world, El Capitán is A building that comes close to
a magnet to rock Yosemite’s natural beauty is the
climbers, who spend Ahwahnee Hotel, built in 1927
days on its sheer face at a cost of $1.5 million. It was
to reach the top. The designed by Gilbert Stanley
less adventurous Underwood, who used giant
congregate in the granite boulders and massive
meadow below, wood timbers to create a
watching the rock rustic elegance in tune with its
climbers through surroundings. The interior of the
binoculars. Ahwahnee Hotel also emulates
Named by US the natural setting, decorated
soldiers, who in 1851 in a Native American style.
were the first white Examples of Native American arts
Americans to visit the and crafts are on display in the
valley, El Capitán is lobbies. The hotel is also noted
the Spanish phrase for its high-quality restaurant,
Giant sequoia trees in Mariposa Grove for “captain.” the Ahwahnee Dining Room.
TRAVELERS’
NEEDS
Where to Stay 208–215

Where to Eat and Drink 216–231
Shopping in San Francisco 232–245
Entertainment in San
Francisco 246–261
Children’s San Francisco 262–263
208  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
San Francisco offers a wide choice of places to option is to stay somewhere offering bedand
stay, from spartan youth hostels to the most breakfast facilities. Bed and breakfasts are
elegant and luxurious of hotels. There are more usually smaller than hotels, and sometimes
than 33,000 rooms available in the city, provid quite opulent. Or, you could opt to stay in a
ing accommodations to suit every budget and unique boutique hotel. For the ecoconscious
taste. The top hotels are good value by interna traveler, green hotels are becoming increasingly
tional standards and have long been rated popular. The following selection of places to
among the best in the world. For the traveler stay represents the best of their kind, covering
on a budget, there are many cheap and com all price ranges. For more details on each hotel,
fortable youth hostels and motels. Another turn to the listings on pages 212–15.
Where to Look night, though this depends on

Many of San Francisco’s hotels when and where you stay. See
are located in and around Special Rates (p210) for details
bustling Union Square, within of any discounts or packages
easy walking distance of the that might be available. Larger
Financial District and the hotels often charge more for
Moscone Convention Center. additional amenities, such as
Nearby Nob Hill, where many parking, Internet access, or
of the finer hotels are situated, breakfast. It is worth checking
is more tranquil, while the with the hotel before booking.
Fisherman’s Wharf area has a Single travelers receive only a
number of hotels and motels small discount, if any, and many
suitable for families. hotels charge visitors $10 to
Away from the center, on the $15 a night for each additional Opulent furnishings at Chateau Tivoli
fringes of the Financial District person (in addition to the (see p212)
and along Lombard Street in standard two) in the same room.
the Marina District, are a For details on traveling with or you can call the hotel’s toll-
tremendous number of children, see page 210. free number to ask about rates
moderately priced motels. and availability.
Bed-and-breakfast rooms are
scattered throughout the city, Chain Hotels
often in quiet neighborhoods. You can count on good Bed and Breakfasts
service, moderate prices, and A notable alternative to the
comfortable surroundings at a large city-center hotels are the
Hotel Prices chain hotel. The popular chains many fine establishments that
Considering the comfort and include the Westin, Hilton, offer bed-and-breakfast
high level of service, hotel Sheraton, Marriott, Ramada, accommodations. These are
prices in San Francisco are Hyatt, and Holiday Inn. Some of often found in some of the
generally quite reasonable, these chains operate more than city’s extensive stock of well-
particularly in comparison with one hotel and designate one preserved 19th-century houses.
Europe or New York. Average location as the flagship facility. In San Francisco they are often
room rates are $160–175 a All chain hotels have websites, referred to as bed-and-breakfast
“inns”; they are unique to the
city, varying from quaint,
country-style cottages to
converted hilltop mansions.
They should not be confused
with the European tradition of
bed-and-breakfast accom-
modations, where you rent a
room from a private individual
in their own home and are also
given breakfast. Some inns are
very luxurious, and rival the
city’s best hotels for comfort.
They vary in size, from a few to
no more than 30 rooms, and are
generally cozier in atmosphere
The Room of the Dons at the Mark Hopkins InterContinental Hotel (see p215) and decor than a normal hotel.
The Garden Court at the Palace Hotel (see p215)
W H E R E TO S TAY  209
All rates include breakfast, and

usually a glass of wine and light
snacks in the afternoon.
Hidden Extras
Room rates are generally quoted
exclusive of room tax, which adds
an additional 14 to 15 percent to
the bill. No sales tax is levied.
However, added fees are often
charged for phone calls. Local
calls, including access calls to toll-
free services, can cost up to $1
each. Long-distance calls can cost
as much as five times more than
they would from a private phone.
Wi-Fi access can also carry a fee,
generally from $15 a day, so be
sure to inquire before using the
Internet. The sending or receiving
of faxes costs around $2 to $3 a
page, plus any phone charges.
Parking at a city-center hotel
can add at least $25 a day to the
bill, plus a tip for the attendant, The elegant exterior of Queen Anne Hotel (see p213)
but motels will usually have free
parking. Some rooms come Facilities enjoy a night on the town
with stocked minibars but you It is usually possible to gauge a without having to set foot
will be charged substantially for hotel’s ambience simply by outside. In San Francisco,
anything you eat or drink – as setting foot in the lobby. Some “boutique” hotels are often older
much as $5 for a candy bar. of the luxury hotels, such as properties and rooms tend to
Prices for these will be the Hyatt Regency, with its be smaller. Review websites and
prominently displayed. impressive 20-story atrium, or ask reservation agents for
A tip of $1 for each bag is the plushly appointed Fairmont details. See Entertainment on
usually paid to porters for carry- (see p215), are famous pages 256–7 for details. Many
ing luggage to or from rooms. landmarks, which adds to the hotels offer discounted access
Room-service waiters expect glamour of your stay in them. at nearby gyms, if they don’t
a tip of 15 percent of the bill, Also, most of the better have their own facilities. At most
rounded up to the next full dollar establishments have excellent of the hotels in the city, guests
and paid in cash. Visitors who restaurants where hotel guests can expect complimentary
stay more than a day or two are often given preferential assorted toiletries and often
may also want to leave the treatment. Some hotels have a a morning newspaper, in
housekeeping staff a $5 to $10 piano bar or nightclub on the addition to free cable TV,
tip next to the bed. premises, enabling visitors to and a minibar.
King Terrace at the Orchard Garden Hotel (see p214)

How to Book
Travelers should reserve rooms
at least one month in advance
(if not more) during peak
season, which runs from July
through October. Telephone
and online bookings are
accepted with a credit card, but
a deposit of one night’s room
rate will usually be required.
Remember to give advance
notice if you think you will be
arriving later than 6pm. There is Pet Suite at the Petite Auberge (see p213)
no official reservation agency,
but hotels may be booked via when booking in an affiliated Traveling with Children
the website of the Visitor hotel, and also earn extra Children are welcome at all
Information Center (see p266) mileage for each night of San Francisco hotels, and few
(www.sfvisitor.org). Many hotels your visit. will charge extra for one or
are listed in the center’s free two children under 12 staying
Visitor Planning Guide. Some in their parents’ room. It is
agencies will book rooms for Disabled Travelers advisable, however, to let
visitors. They do not charge for All hotels in the United staff at the hotel know you are
this, and can often get you States are required by law to traveling with children, because
discount rates. provide the disabled with not all rooms are suitable. Some
accommodation, as is stated in hotels may provide you with a
the Americans with Disabilities sofa that can be converted into
Special Rates Act of 1992. Older properties are an extra bed or alternatively
It is always worthwhile to exempt from this, but most of may be able to set up a cot or
check hotel websites or ask San Francisco’s hotels comply a folding bed for an additional
reservation agents about any with the act and provide at least $10 to $15 a night. Most
special discounts that might be one room suitable for guests hotels can arrange babysitters,
available, in particular during who are wheelchair-bound. or licensed agencies can
the off-peak months between You will find that staff in most provide childcare, see p262–3
November and March. It is also establishments will do all for more information. Many
useful to ask for discounts when they can to assist anyone families prefer to take rooms
booking weekend visits, as disabled, but if you do have in an all-suite hotel, or rent a
many hotels that usually cater special needs, it is advisable to furnished apartment for extra
to the business traveler will cut inform the manager of the hotel space and freedom.
their rates for families. Some when you reserve your room.
may also provide special offers, All the hotel listings on pages
such as a free bottle of wine or 212–15 allow those who are Youth and Budget
lower-price meals, with the aim visually impaired to bring guide Accommodations
to gain the patronage of those dogs onto the premises. More San Francisco boasts many
who travel for pleasure. information for travelers with youth hostels. These offer
Reservation services do not special needs can be bunks in dormitories plus some
usually charge a fee, as they found on page 280, under private rooms, at affordable
receive a commission from the Practical Information. prices for travelers who are on
individual hotels, and some will a tighter budget. There are three
offer discounted rates. A good good, cheap hostels run by a
travel agent can save its clients Gay and Lesbian nonprofit organization called
10 to 20 percent of the standard Accommodations Hosteling International. The
nightly charge of many hotels. Though all the hotels in San best-known is located at
It is worth checking some Francisco welcome lesbian and Fisherman’s Wharf, while the
package tours, such as those gay visitors, the city also has a other two can be found at Ellis
advertised in the Sunday paper, number of places that cater Street, and Mason Street near
as they can offer significant primarily, if not exclusively, to Union Square. They all have
savings for travelers. Many same-sex couples. Most of these kitchens, media rooms, flat-
airlines also offer discounts as are smaller properties, which are screen TVs, nightly movies, and
an incentive to those who found in and around the city’s on-site activity coordinators to
reserve a room through them. predominantly gay Castro help plan your itinerary. There
If you are a member of a District. A few options are listed are also several privately run
frequent-flyer program, you in the Directory, and gay hostels in the city. Budget hotels
may be able to save as much as bookstores can also provide include the Pacific Tradewinds
50 percent off the normal rates more information. Hostel and Herbert Hotel.
W H E R E TO S TAY  211
Furnished Apartments that owners will expect guests options are for longer day-trips
and Rooms in Private to be quiet and considerate. outside of San Francisco.
Homes Traditional sources for these Our hotels are divided into five
Some travelers may prefer types of arrangements are also categories: Bed and Breakfast,
European-style bed-and- still very active. For more details Boutique, Budget, Green, and
breakfast accommodations in contact the special rental Luxury and Spa. San Francisco’s
a private house, and Internet agencies, such as Bed and bed and breakfasts offer a
services have made a much Breakfast San Francisco or the friendly, welcoming experience,
broader range of accommoda- California Association of Bed with a decent breakfast.
tions available. Options include and Breakfast Inns. Boutique hotels are uniquely
everything from lofts and sofas themed, from Japanese anime
in shared communal spaces to decor to fine historical buildings;
luxurious private apartments. Recommended Hotels some small chains are included,
AMSI are furnished high-end No matter where you plan to but many are independently
apartments for long-term rent. stay in the city, these hotels will operated, as well. Budget hotels
While home-rental websites are provide you with excellent cater to the traveler looking for
increasingly popular all over the accommodations and services reasonable accommodations at
world, tech-savvy San Francisco based on your budget. Down- inexpensive prices. Green hotels
has more users than most town hotels include Chinatown, have received local certifications
locations, and sites like AirBnB Union Square, Civic Center, and for environmentally sensitive
or VRBO have hundreds of the Financial District. Mission practices. Luxury hotels provide
listings available. Rooms are and SoMa hotels are adjacent high-end amenities and services;
rented out by a resident owner neighborhoods South of Market many include spa facilities.
in his or her own home, or Street, so these are grouped Throughout our listings, we’ve
sublet by apartment tenants; together. Likewise, the Upper marked recommended hotels as
breakfast is often provided. and Lower sections of Haight DK Choice. We’ve chosen these
Deposits may be requested and Street border the Castro, so hotels because they highlight a
cancellation fees imposed, so these are listed together. Castro surprising local gem that offers
inquire when you book. There is also adjacent to the Mission. a uniquely San Francisco stay,
may also be a minimum stay Farther Afield locations are close from quirky, historical details to
period. If you do opt to stay in enough for daily visits to the incredible Bay Area views or
a private house, keep in mind city, while Northern California unbeatable locations.
DIRECTORY
Reservation Inn on Castro Hosteling California Association
Agencies 321 Castro St, International of Boutique and
SF, CA 94114. City Center Breakfast Inns
Advanced Reservation Map 10 D2. 685 Ellis St, SF, CA 94109. 414 29th St,
Systems (ARES) Tel 861-0321. Map 5 A5. Tel 474-5721. Sacramento,
3750 Convoy St, ∑ innoncastro.com Pacific Tradewinds CA 95816.
Suite 312, Hostel Tel (1-800) 373-9251.
The Willows Inn ∑ cabbi.com
San Diego, 680 Sacramento St,
710 14th St, SF,
CA 92111. SF, CA 94111. Map 5 C4. VRBO
CA 94114.
Tel 433-7970. ∑ vrbo.com
Tel (1-800) 434-7894. Map 10 E2. Tel 431-4770.
∑ aresdirect.com ∑ willowssf.com Furnished
Apartments
Hotels.Com Youth and Budget
8140 Walnut Accommodations AMSI
Hill Lane, Suite 203, 2800 Van Ness,
Downtown SF, CA 94109.
Dallas, TX 75231.
312 Mason St, SF, CA Tel (1-800) 747-7784.
Tel (1-800) 246-8357. ∑ amsires.com
94102. Map 5 B5.
∑ hotels.com
Tel 788-5604. Rooms in
Gay and Lesbian Fisherman’s Wharf Private Homes
Accommodations Bldg 240, Upper Fort AirBnB
Mason, SF, CA 94123. ∑ airbnb.com
Chateau Tivoli Map 4 E1.
1057 Steiner St, SF, Tel 771-7277. Bed and Breakfast
San Francisco
CA 94115. Herbert Hotel PO Box 420009,
Map 10 D1. 161 Powell St, SF, CA 94142.
Tel 776-5462. SF, CA 94102. Tel 899-0060.
∑ chateautivoli.com Map 5 B5. Tel 362-1600. ∑ bbsf.com
212  travelers’ needs
Where to Stay
SoMa and Mission Price Guide
Bed and Breakfast The Inn San Francisco $$ Prices are based on one night’s stay in
943 South Van Ness Ave, 94110 high season for a standard double room,
Downtown Tel (415) 641-0188 Map 10 F3 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Golden Gate Hotel $$ ∑ innsf.com $ under $150
775 Bush St, 94108 Elaborate Victorian mansion $$ $150 to $250
$$$ over $250
Tel (415) 392-3702 Map 5 B4 with period decor and
∑ goldengatehotel.com comfortable beds. Huge
A family-run hotel with small, breakfast spread. Blackbird Inn $$$
luxurious rooms. Tea and freshly 1755 First St,
baked cookies in the afternoon. Sleep Over Sauce $$ Napa, 94559
135 Gough St, 94102 Tel (1-888) 567-9811
Tel (415) 621-0896 Map 10 F1 ∑ blackbirdinnnapa.com
Fisherman’s Wharf and ∑ sleepsf.com Large rooms with handmade
North Beach Charming place located in a furnishings and fireplaces.
trendy neighbourhood. Small,
Washington Square Inn $$$ comfortable rooms, homely
1660 Stockton St, 94133 atmosphere.
Tel (415) 981-4220 Map 5 B2 Boutique
∑ wsisf.com
Small but classy rooms. Breakfast Farther Afield Downtown
is basic. Complimentary wine and Point Reyes Station Inn $$ The Buchanan $$
hors d’oeuvres hour. 11591 California 1, 1800 Sutter St, 94115
Point Reyes, 94956 Tel (415) 921-4000 Map 4 E4
Tel (415) 663-9372 ∑ thebuchananhotel.com
Haight Ashbury and ∑ pointreyesstationinn.com A stylish Asian-inspired hotel
Castro A national seashore retreat with quirky decor and all modern
complete with all modern amenities. Great service.
Edwardian Hotel $$ amenities. Great for nature lovers.
1688 Market St, 94102 Chancellor Hotel $$
Tel (415) 864-1271 Map 10 F1 Rose Garden Inn $$ 433 Powell St, 94102
∑ edwardiansf.com 2740 Telegraph Ave, Tel (415) 362-2004 Map 5 B4
Located in a classic 1913 Berkeley, 94705 ∑ chancellorhotel.com
building, this renovated hotel has Tel (510) 549-2145 Offers old-world charm for
modern decor and amenities. ∑ rosegardeninn.com travelers; small, quiet, and
Small, clean rooms with a well-organized rooms.
Parker Guest House $$ pretty, Victorian style decor. This
520 Church St, 94114 place attracts younger guests. Cornell Hotel de France $$
Tel (415) 621-3222 Map 10 E2 715 Bush St, 94108
∑ parkerguesthouse.com Tel (415) 421-3154 Map 5 B4
Enjoy well-appointed rooms, lush Northern California ∑ cornellhotel.com
gardens, and nightly cocktails at Petite rooms, personable staff,
this gay-friendly place. a comfortable lounge, and a
DK Choice complimentary breakfast spread.
Willows Inn Bed & Breakfast $$ Boonville Hotel $$
710 14th St, 94114 14050 California 128, Hotel des Arts $$
Tel (415) 431-4770 Map 10 E2 Boonville, 95415 447 Bush St, 94108
∑ willowssf.com Tel (707) 895-2210 Tel (415) 956-3232 Map 5 C4
Clean rooms and a substantial ∑ boonvillehotel.com ∑ sfhoteldesarts.com
breakfast spread make this hotel Enjoy rustic Californian charm Features local artist-designed
excellent value for money. amid the scenic Anderson guest rooms, a gallery, and clean
Valley. Rooms are clean, with modern design.
Stanyan Park Hotel $$$ herb-garden views, and range
750 Stanyan St, 94117 from cozy twins to private
Tel (415) 751-1000 Map 9 B2 bungalows. The on-site
∑ stanyanpark.com restaurant has an affordable
Listed on the National Historic prix-fixe menu with seasonal,
Register, this place has spacious local ingredients.
Victorian-styled rooms.
Headlands Inn
Pacific Heights and the Bed & Breakfast $$
Marina 10453 Howard St,
Mendocino, 95460
Chateau Tivoli $$$ Tel (707) 937-4431
1057 Steiner St, 94115 ∑ headlandsinn.com
Tel (415) 776-5462 Map 4 D4 Fireplaces, feather beds, and
∑ chateautivoli.com an in-room breakfast service
History buffs love this Victorian make this B&B the perfect Stone steps leading to quaint, classy
mansion with spacious rooms. romantic getaway. Blackbird Inn, Napa
w h e r e to S tay  213
Hotel Vertigo $$
940 Sutter St, 94109
Tel (415) 885-6800 Map 5 A4
∑ hotelvertigosf.com
Hitchcock fans rejoice – this
place is a fun take on the classic
film. Excellent amenities.
DK Choice
Petite Auberge $$
863 Bush St, 94108
Tel (415) 928-6000 Map 5 B4
∑ jdvhotels.com/hotels/
sanfrancisco/petite_auberge Plush interiors of the Library Bar at Hotel Rex
French Provincial-styled hotel
from hotelier Joie de Vive. A mix Hotel Bohème $$$ Inn at the Opera $$
of luxurious and rustic ambience, 444 Columbus Ave, 94133 333 Fulton St, 94102
with brass pans on the walls and Tel (415) 433-9111 Map 5 B3 Tel (415) 863-8400 Map 4 F5
pillowtop mattresses on the ∑ hotelboheme.com ∑ shellhospitality.com/en/Inn-at-
beds. Enjoy the complimentary Small, eclectic rooms at this hotel the-opera/
breakfast buffet, and freshly located amid restaurants, bars, Classy, old-fashioned rooms, all
baked cookies every afternoon. and shops. Great for city explorers. with kitchenettes. Conveniently
located for numerous cultural
sights. Good for groups.
Phoenix Hotel $$ Pacific Heights and
601 Eddy St, 94109 the Marina Farther Afield
Tel (415) 776-1380 Map 5 A5
∑ jdvhotels.com/phoenix Motel Capri $ Hotel Sausalito $$
A pool lounge for guests is at the 2015 Greenwich St, 94123 16 El Portal St, Sausalito, 94965
center of this renovated motor Tel (415) 346-4667 Map 4 D2 Tel (415) 332-0700
lodge. Clean and spacious rooms ∑ sfmotelcapri.com ∑ hotelsausalito.com
plus free parking. Family-run, 1960s-style motel Seaside-town charm and comfy
with pillowtop mattresses. Clean beds at this subtly elegant hotel.
Clift Hotel $$$ and comfortable rooms, and free Warm and welcoming.
495 Geary St, 94102 parking. Pet friendly.
Tel (415) 775-4700 Map 5 B5
∑ clifthotel.com Inn at the Presidio $$ Northern California
A great mix of vintage and 42 Moraga Ave, 94129 Metro Hotel & Café $
modern, this is one of the Tel (415) 800-7356 Map 3 B3 508 Petaluma Blvd South,
city’s best celebrity-spotting ∑ innatthepresidio.com Petaluma, 94952
venues. The lobby has a unique An excellent hotel; all suites have Tel (707) 773-4900
furniture collection. fireplaces. Relax on the charming ∑ metrolodging.com
front porch, or on the outdoor A truly unique French-themed
Hotel Rex $$$ patio, which has a fire pit. hotel with cheerful and cozy
562 Sutter St, 94102 rooms. Friendly owners.
Tel (415) 433-4434 Map 5 B4 Queen Anne Hotel $$$
∑ www.jdvhotels.com/rex 1590 Sutter St, 94109 Fireside Lodge $$
A welcoming place with a Tel (415) 441-2828 Map 4 E4 515 Emerald Bay Rd, South Lake
literary theme and friendly staff. ∑ queenanne.com Tahoe, 96150
Enjoy live jazz on Friday evenings Authentic period character Tel (530) 544-5515
in the Library Bar. and elegant decor at this ∑ tahoefiresidelodge.com
stately Victorian hotel. Free A 1950s-style motor lodge with
Wi-Fi and great service. retro-kitsch charm and great
Fisherman’s Wharf and hospitality. Pets are welcome.
North Beach SoMa and Mission Homestead Cottages $$
Da Vinci Villa $$ Best Western 41110 Rd 600,
2550 Van Ness Ave, 94109 Americania Hotel $$ Ahwahnee, 93610
Tel (415) 529-2500 Map 4 F2 121 7th St, 94103 Tel (559) 683-0495
∑ davincivilla.com Tel (415) 626-0200 Map 11 A1 ∑ homesteadcottages.com
Comfortable, well-appointed ∑ americaniahotel.com Quirky, peaceful, and well-
rooms, some with views of the A welcome oasis in an improving, provisioned cottages located
Golden Gate Bridge. Outdoor pool. if still underdeveloped, area. near to Yosemite National Park.
Clean and cheery rooms. Great value.
Best Western Plus
The Tuscan $$$ Best Western Carriage Inn $$ Queen’s Inn by the River $$
425 North Point St, 94133 140 7th St, 94103 41139 Hwy 41, Oakhurst, 93644
Tel (415) 561-1100 Map 5 B1 Tel (415) 552-8600 Map 11 A1 Tel (559) 683-4354
∑ tuscanhotel.com ∑ carriageinnsf.com ∑ queensinn.com
The popular wine hour at this Each guest room has a themed Ranch-style buildings with
Italianate inn offers a calm escape decor inspired by famous San excellent, modern rooms. Great
from the jammed streets outside. Franciscans. Sizeable rooms. on-site wine and beer garden.
For more information on types of hotels see pp210–11
Pacific Heights and Northern California

Budget the Marina Pepper Tree Inn $
645 N Lake Blvd,
Downtown The Greenwich Inn $ Tahoe City, 96145
Baldwin Hotel $ 3201 Steiner St, 94213 Tel (530) 583-3711
321 Grant Ave, 94108 Tel (415) 921-5162 Map 4 D2 ∑ peppertreetahoe.com
Tel (415) 781-2220 Map 5 C4 ∑ greenwichinn.com Retro rooms with lake views.
∑ baldwinhotel.com A small, basic, motel-style hotel Close to the ski slopes at Tahoe.
Vintage European-style hotel with cozy rooms. Family friendly;
with small rooms, antique tubs, free parking and Wi-Fi. Point Reyes Hostel $
and attentive staff. Somewhat 1390 Limantour Spit Rd,
dated decor. Inn on Broadway $ Point Reyes, 94956
2201 Van Ness Ave, 94109 Tel (415) 663-8811
The Cartwright Hotel $$ Tel (415) 776-7900 Map 4 E3 ∑ norcalhostels.org/reyes
524 Sutter St, 94102 ∑ broadwaymanor.com Historic ranch converted to
Tel (415) 421-2865 Map 5 B4 All rooms at this non-smoking dorms and private rooms.
∑ cartwrightunionsquare.com inn feature flat-screen TVs, and
This pet-friendly hotel has a coffee- and tea-making facilities.
fireplace in the lobby, simple Free parking and Wi-Fi.
rooms, and free Wi-Fi. Great Green
location near the Theater District. Redwood Inn $
1530 Lombard St, 94123 Downtown
Tel (415) 776-3800 Map 4 E2 Hotel Whitcomb $$
Fisherman’s Wharf and ∑ sfredwoodinn.com 1231 Market St, 94103
North Beach Motor-lodge style inn with Tel (415) 626-8000 Map 11 A1
spacious, inexpensive rooms. Free ∑ hotelwhitcomb.com
San Remo Hotel $ parking and Wi-Fi. Non-smoking. Vintage hotel with rooms that
2237 Mason St, 94133 are small in size but big on style
Tel (415) 776-8688 Map 5 B2 and character.
∑ sanremohotel.com SoMa and Mission
Small, cozy, and neatly kept Hayes Valley Inn $ Hotel Griffon $$$
rooms with shared bathrooms. 417 Gough St, 94102 155 Steuart St, 94105
Excellent rooftop penthouse. Tel (415) 431-9131 Map 4 E5 Tel (415) 495-2100 Map 6 E4
Great for a romantic getaway. ∑ hayesvalleyinn.com ∑ hotelgriffon.com
Bed-and-breakfast charm within Boutique hotel offering clean
budget. Basic rooms with shared rooms with waterfront views.
Haight Ashbury and baths. Complimentary breakfast.
Castro Orchard Garden Hotel $$$
466 Bush St, 94108
Metro Hotel $ Farther Afield Tel (415) 399-9807 Map 5 C4
319 Divisadero St, 94117 ∑ theorchardgardenhotel.com
Tel (415) 861-5364 Map 10 D1 Simple rooms stocked with
∑ metrohotelsf.com DK Choice organic toiletries. Warm and
Comfortable, clean, and hip Marin Headlands Hostel $ personable staff.
rooms, some renovated more 941 Rosenstock Rd,
recently than others. Free Wi-Fi Sausalito, 94965 Serrano Hotel $$$
and impeccable service. Tel (415) 331-2777 405 Taylor St, 94102
∑ norcalhostels.org/marin Tel (415) 885-2500 Map 5 B5
Find clean, comfortable rooms ∑ serranohotel.com
DK Choice (private or dorms) in historic Cherrywood decor and white
Red Victorian buildings for $30–130 a night. linen in the rooms. Free bikes for
Bed & Breakfast $ Take a hike on the Headlands’ sightseeing.
1665 Haight St, 94117 historic hiking trails, or spend
Tel (415) 864-1978 Map 9 B1 some time with the on-site Sir Francis Drake Hotel $$$
∑ redvic.com gallery’s Artists in Residence. 450 Powell St, 94108
Locals call it the Red Vic, and Tel (415) 391-8719 Map 5 B4
this grand building, more than ∑ sirfrancisdrake.com
a century old, has cheerful This hotel has small rooms but
rooms that are a tribute to offers gorgeous 1930s flair. Get
San Francisco’s Summer of Love. pampered with some in-room
There are 18 uniquely designed spa treatments.
guest rooms plus a café offering
great breakfasts.
Fisherman’s Wharf and
North Beach
Beck’s Motor Lodge $$
2222 Market St, 94114 Argonaut Hotel $$$
Tel (415) 621-8212 Map 10 E1 495 Jefferson St, 94109
∑ becksmotorlodge.com Tel (415) 563-0800 Map 5 A1
Basic but clean rooms, a private ∑ argonauthotel.com
sundeck, and free parking This place boasts authentic sea-
and Wi-Fi in a lively area. Non- The snug Roots bar at the Orchard side character, from the decor to
smoking. Popular with gay men. Garden Hotel the on-site restaurant. Pet-friendly.
Key to Prices see p212
w h e r e to S tay  215
Pacific Heights and

the Marina Luxury and Spa
Hotel Drisco $$$ Downtown
2901 Pacific Ave, 94115 The Fairmont $$$
Tel (415) 346-2880 Map 3 C3 950 Mason St, 94108
∑ hoteldrisco.com Tel (415) 772-5000 Map 5 B4
Spacious and elegant. Experience ∑ fairmont.com/san-francisco
1940s glamor without being too Perched atop Nob Hill, The
far from modern amenities. Fairmont is opulent, service-
focused, and luxurious.
DK Choice Hotel Kabuki $$$
Hotel del Sol $$$ 1625 Post St, 94115
3100 Webster St, 94123 Tel (415) 922-3200 Map 4 E4
Tel (415) 921-5520 Map 4 D2 ∑ jdvhotels.com/kabuki
∑ jdvhotels.com/hotels/ Taste a bit of Japanese-style Heated outdoor pool and colorful exteriors
sanfrancisco/del_sol hospitality here. Deep soaking of Hotel del Sol
A beachfront-style hotel in tubs and Zen-like ambience.
the city center, with bright, SoMa and Mission
cheery, and comfortable rooms. Hotel Vitale $$$ InterContinental
It caters to families, with 8 Mission St, 94105 San Francisco Hotel $$$
afternoon cookies and milk Tel (415) 278-3700 Map 6 E4 888 Howard St, 94103
instead of wine and cheese. ∑ hotelvitale.com Tel (415) 616-6500 Map 5 C5
Complimentary continental Large, de-luxe rooms are the ∑ intercontinentalsanfrancisco.com
breakfast. There are enforced norm at this waterfront hotel. Sleek aesthetics, good rooms,
quiet hours, and a heated Get pampered in the spa. and a spa service. All guest
ground-level pool. rooms are non-smoking.
DK Choice The St. Regis San Francisco $$$
Mark Hopkins Inter- 125 3rd St, 94103
Farther Afield Continental Hotel $$$ Tel (415) 284-4000 Map 5 C5
Pigeon Point 1 Nob Hill, 94108 ∑ stregissanfrancisco.com
Lighthouse Hostel $ Tel (415) 392-3434 Map 5 B4 Luxury at its finest, St. Regis has
210 Pigeon Point Rd, ∑ intercontinentalmarkhopkins. genteelly beautiful, welcoming
Pescadero, 94060 com spaces throughout.
Tel (650) 879-0633 Its stately exterior and elaborate
∑ norcalhostels.org/pigeon decor make it instantly W San Francisco Hotel $$$
Whale-watch from a hot tub on recognizable. All the rooms 181 Third St, 94103
a cliff. Clean, private rooms and here are excellent, but the Tel (415) 777-5300 Map 5 C5
dorms, and lighthouse views. suites are truly extravagant. ∑ wsanfrancisco.com
The top-floor bar – Top of the Plush beds and nicely styled, chic
Bancroft Hotel $$ Mark – attracts guests with its decor. Spa services on site.
2680 Bancroft Way, expansive, breathtaking,
Berkeley, 94704 360-degree views of the city.
Tel (510) 549-1000 Farther Afield
∑ bancrofthotel.com Cavallo Point $$$
Former College Women’s Club Palace Hotel $$$ 601 Murray Circle,
restored to its Arts & Crafts glory. 2 New Montgomery St, 94105 Sausalito, 94965
Organic bedding and toiletries. Tel (415) 512-1111 Map 5 C4 Tel (415) 339-4700
∑ sfpalace.com ∑ cavallopoint.com
Waters Edge Hotel $$$ A grand and beautiful hotel with Spa resort at the base of
25 Main St, refined guest rooms, spacious the Golden Gate Bridge. Well-
Tiburon, 94920 suites, and an excellent restaurant. appointed and luxurious rooms.
Tel (415) 789-5999
∑ marinhotels.com/waters-edge- Ritz-Carlton San Francisco $$$ The Inn Above Tide $$$
hotel/guest-rooms 600 Stockton St, 94108 30 El Portal St,
Plush beds and in-room break- Tel (415) 296-7465 Map 5 C4 Sausalito, 94965
fasts in a quaint setting. Sweeping ∑ ritzcarlton.com/sanfrancisco Tel (415) 332-9535
views of the bay and city. Refined and ultra elegant, this ∑ innabovetide.com
place offers opulence in every Romantic destination with rooms
aspect. Guest rooms feature perched over the bay. Cool views,
Northern California original artwork by local artists. hot tubs, and ferry access.
Treebones Resort $$
71895 Hwy 1, San Francisco
Big Sur, 93920 Marriott Marquis $$$ Northern California
Tel (805) 927-2390 55 4th St, 94103 Auberge du Soleil $$$
∑ treebonesresort.com Tel (415) 896-1600 Map 5 C5 180 Rutherford Hill Rd,
Unique coastal resort. Enjoy ∑ marriott.com/hotels/travel/sfodt- Rutherford, 94573
living in the yurts or the san-francisco-marriott Tel (707) 963-1211
“human nest.“ Take in the Caters to business travelers, but a ∑ aubergedusoleil.com
gorgeous sunset views from great location for tourists as well. Luxury rooms and an excellent
the outdoor sushi bar. Wide range of room choices. spa. Overlooks the Napa Valley.
For more information on types of hotels see pp210–11
where to eat and drink

There are more than 5,000 places to eat San Francisco’s role as an international port
and drink in San Francisco and because of entry (see pp42–3) has brought a variety
competition between restaurants is fierce, of ethnic cuisine to the city. The restaurant
visitors can find great food at reasonable listings on pages 222–9 provide a selection
prices. Easy access to fresh produce, and of representative restaurants; lighter fare
particularly to seafood, has made the city a and quick snacks are listed on page 231.
hotbed of good, innovative “California Cuisine.” San Francisco’s cafés are on page 230.
San Francisco’s from Belgian waffles and crepes,

Restaurants to fusion “Indian burritos” and
A wide range of food from Korean BBQ tacos at the city’s
around the world can be found food trucks. Websites and phone
in San Francisco. The most apps can give you the exact
fashionable restaurants are in the locations of your favorite trucks,
center of the city, in the Mission and there are a number of “pods”
District and South of Market where trucks convene daily.
areas. Chestnut Street, in the The Ferry Building Farmer’s
Marina District, and the stretch Market on Tuesday, Thursday,
of Fillmore Street between Bush and Friday offers a good
Street and Jackson Street, are also sampling of favorites.
worth investigating. Italian food
is available in the North Beach
area, while Latin American fare Hours and Prices
can be found in the Mission Prices vary widely, and they
District. Chinatown has depend partly on when you eat.
Cambodian, Vietnamese, and Breakfast is available between Opulent dining room decor at an
Thai, as well as many Chinese, 7am and 11am, and is often upmarket restaurant
restaurants. On Geary Boulevard inexpensive, costing between $8
and Clement Street, in the Rich- and $15. Brunch, usually served kitchens begin to close around
mond District, are more Chinese between 10am and 2pm on 10pm. Salads and appetizers cost
and Southeast Asian eateries. Saturdays and Sundays, costs between $5 and $8 each and
about $7 to $20. At lunchtime main dishes are between $10
you can buy a light meal for and $25. In the very best
Other Places to Eat about $6 between 11am and restaurants, however, a meal can
San Francisco offers a broad 2:30pm. In the best restaurants, cost upward of $75, plus $30 to
range of venues other than lunchtime prices are lower than $60 for a bottle of wine. A few
restaurants in which to consume they are at dinner, but they are places are open all night.
food. Many hotels have excellent still by no means cheap. In the
dining rooms or informal buffets evenings, meals are generally
open to the public at lunchtime served from 6pm, and many Dining on a Budget
and in the evening. Most also One way of stretching your bud-
have coffee shops for breakfast get is to eat a large, late breakfast.
or for late-night eating. Some Eating outside can be a real treat:
delicatessens are found in the at midday, buy some of the fresh
Financial District. There are fast- fruit so abundant here, and have
food outlets all over the city as a picnic lunch. The Mission
well as many street vendors. district’s taquerías and falafel
joints are another good option.
In a restaurant, you can cut
Food Trucks expenses by sharing; portions
An upscale version of street food, here are often large. Or, take
known as the food truck, offers advantage of the free food
delicious take-away meals. It can offered by many city-center
be a cheap and easy way to grab bars between 4pm and 6pm:
a quick meal. It can also be a delicacies such as fried won ton
foray into some of the city’s most are often included in the price of
popular eats. Food trucks have a drink. San Francisco’s Bars on
become an important stepping page 258 has good recommen-
stone for many aspiring restau- Interior of the Italian restaurant, dations. Many places offer fixed-
rateurs; you’ll find everything Acquerello (see p223) price meals at a good price.
w h e r e to e at a n d d r i n k  217
Tax and Tipping the city. Children are not allowed

A sales tax of 9.5 percent is added in any bar. However, if food is
to all meal checks in San Fran served on the premises, children
cisco, although a service charge can accompany adults to eat.
is rarely included unless there are
six or more in your party. You are
expected to leave a tip, however. Wheelchair Access
About 15 percent of the total bill Since 1992, all restaurants in San
is average, and most locals simply Francisco have been required by
double the tax, then round it up law to be accessible to those
or down. The tip can be left in patrons who are wheelchair
cash at the table, or added to the bound. As a result, wide bath
total if you are using a credit card. room doors and ramped
Restaurants in San Francisco are entrances to restaurants and
also subject to regulations seating areas abound. It’s always
requiring them to provide best to call ahead to be sure,
healthcare to their staff. A Healthy however, as not all buildings have
San Francisco surcharge may be been brought into compliance.
added to your bill, ranging from Diners ordering food at Greens (see p226)
$1 to $5 per table, or 1–5 percent
per bill. Check menus for details. Recommended
Smoking Restaurants
Smoking indoors is prohibited The restaurants on the following
Dress Codes throughout California, unless pages have been chosen to
As in most of California, restaurant there is a separately ventilated represent a crosssection of the
owners in San Francisco take a area reserved for smoking that city’s diverse and excellent
fairly relaxed approach toward minimizes the risk of anyone dining options. From local hole
dress, and most places will allow breathing in unwanted second inthewall places to finedining
you in wearing a Tshirt and a pair hand smoke. These are often musts, these choices offer
of jeans. In the trendier estab located in bar areas or within something for everyone, in
lishments, a minimum of dark outdoor patios. every neighborhood. In all areas,
denim and casual dresses are the you’ll find a combination of
unofficial dress code. Formal good food and great value.
attire requirements are quite rare. Children Our restaurants are divided
All restaurants in the city are into eight geographical areas.
happy to serve wellbehaved Chinatown, Union Square, Civic
Reservations children, although you and your Center, and the Financial District
It is always best to make a reser youngsters may feel less comfort restaurants are all listed within
vation in advance. Popular able at trendier spots. At the the Downtown area. Mission and
restaurants tend to be booked a more familyoriented establish SoMa are adjacent neighbor
week or more ahead for Friday ments, such as North Beach hoods south of Market Street,
and Saturday nights. Weekdays, Italian restaurants or a Chinatown so these listings are grouped
however, you should be able to dim sum house on a Sunday together. Likewise, the Upper
book a table if you phone only a morning, children are welcomed. and Lower sections of Haight
day in advance. If you don’t have Most places supply high chairs or Street border the Castro, so these
a reservation, and sometimes booster seats and offer children’s have been combined. Other
even if you do, you may have to portions or alternative menus. areas include Fisherman’s Wharf
wait for a table. Pass the time The minimum legal age of 21 and North Beach, Pacific Heights
nursing a cocktail or sampling for drinking beer and alcohol is and the Marina, and Golden Gate
one of the city’s interesting beers. strictly enforced throughout Park and Land’s End. Farther
Afield locations are close enough
for a meal while staying in the
city; Northern California options
are recommended stops on day
trips outside of San Francisco.
Throughout our listings we’ve
marked recommended restau
rants as DK Choice. We’ve chosen
these restaurants because they
offer a special experience – either
for the superb cuisine, for enjoy
ing a uniquely San Francisco
night out, for the excellent value,
The forecourt of Mel’s Drive-In diner (see p226) of a combination of these.
218  Traveler’s needs
The Flavors of San Francisco

If variety is the spice of life, then san Francisco’s culinary scene is as red-hot as the tear-
inducing salsa liberally dished out by the city’s top-notch Mexican taquerias. You could
find your way around san Francisco by scent alone: the sharp tang of espresso mingles
with robust wafts of marinara sauce in the north Beach Italian sector, the sizzling sabor
de México heats up the Mission district, and cacophonous Chinatown exudes the
steamy fragrance of dim sum and crispy duck. For a sweet finale, indulge in san
Francisco’s very own Ghirardelli Chocolate, produced in the Bay area for over 150 years.
been pulled from the earth eaten, from baby artichokes

only hours before, such as ringed by vibrant lemon slices
freshly plucked arugula to wafer-thin slices of raw ahi
(rocket) leaves, just washed of tuna fanned atop a rainbow of
their dirt clumps, and heirloom grilled vegetables.
tomatoes so juicy you may
have to ask for an extra napkin.
With such agricultural riches, Asian Food
San Francisco’s renowned chefs Explore Chinatown’s web of
are inspired to work culinary bustling, pungent streets and
magic, creating minimalist you’ll soon discover how the
works of art that beg to be restaurants here turn out
Swordfish Salmon Lobster Trout Sole

Celebrated chef Yoshi Kojima prepares a Tuna
carp for cooking
California Cuisine
The Bay Area is the birthplace of
California cuisine. The sheer
variety of fresh produce in
Northern California results in a
culinary style that’s all about
the “cult of the ingredient,”
rather than specific dishes,
leaving ample room for
creativity. Many of San
Francisco’s best chefs cultivate
a close relationship with
regional growers, so what Clams Scallop
arrives at the table may have A selection of ocean-fresh San Francisco fish and shellfish
San Francisco Dishes and Specialties

A true melting pot, San Francisco not only
features authentic Mexican, Italian, and
Asian fare, but a creative commingling of
them all. Each cuisine inspires the other,
resulting in marvelous fusion dishes that
have earned the city its gushing accolades
as a foodie paradise. Feast on anything from wok-
fried spicy greens to sautéed seafood with ginger
salsa or baby vegetables with Vietnamese mint.
Round out your meal with a warm hunk of the
city’s deservedly famous sourdough bread,
Dim sum widely considered among the best in the
world. The bread’s unique taste and texture stems from a
Clam chowder Restaurants on
yeast of wild micro-organisms, stumbled upon by gold miners over a
Fisherman’s Wharf serve this dish
century ago, that thrive only in the Bay Area’s unique climate.
of creamy soup in a hollowed-
out sourdough roll.
smoky chunks of beef, and

you’ll be satiated for the day.
From saffron-scented rice and
jumbo pinto beans to hand-
rolled steamed tortillas infused
with spinach and sun-dried
tomato, the city’s ubiquitous
taquerias offer south-of-the-
border pizzazz.
Dungeness Crab
The Dungeness crab is famed
for its delicate meat. When its
season arrives, from mid-
Colorful interior of a bustling Mexican taqueria November to June, locals
celebrate by eating it in as
exquisite Asian fare fit for an Mexican Fare many ways as possible, or
emperor. Massive aquariums The urban fuel of San Francisco simply cracked with butter and
are home (temporarily, that is) – and one of the best bargains crusty sourdough bread.
to giant carp swimming in around – is the city’s fast, filling,
languid circles, and sinewy eels and delicious Mexican fare. Dig On the Menu
unfurling amid swaying into an epic burrito, filled to
seaweed. Bulging sacks bursting with beans, rice and Cioppino A tomato-based stew
overflow with aromatic spices, made with chunks of fish and
shellfish.
and wooden crates bloom with
dew-sprinkled bok choy and Dim sum A Chinese lunchtime
scallions (spring onions). Peer specialty, these little dumplings,
into an open kitchen for a steamed or fried, are stuffed with
glimpse of skilled chefs, knives fish, meat or vegetables.
a-blur, transforming whole Hangtown fry A hearty
ducks into paper-thin slivers omelette filled with breaded
that will melt in your mouth. oysters and bacon.
The secret to Chinatown’s Petrale sole This delicate local
culinary prowess is that the fish is usually served lightly
neighborhood’s chefs are sautéed.
cooking for the most Tortilla A Mexican staple, this
discerning of diners – their round, flat unleavened corn- or
own people. San Francisco’s wheat-flour bread forms the
Chinatown boasts the second- basis of many other dishes, such
largest Asian population Crab and clams on a harborside as burritos, quesadillas, and tacos.
outside of China. seafood stall
Spicy marinated steak North Seared ahi tuna with Asian Ghirardelli tiramisu A North
Beach Italian restaurants often salsa The fusion salsa is made Beach favorite of mascarpone
serve steak with garlic, anchovy with shiitake mushrooms and cheese, Ghirardelli chocolate,
and lemon butter. Szechuan peppercorns. cream, and coffee liqueur.
220  Travelers’ Needs
What to Drink in San Francisco

California is now one of the world’s largest and most exciting
wine-producing areas, and the best vintages come from the
wine country north of san Francisco, especially the Napa and
sonoma valleys. Most California wines are made from the
classic european grape varieties but, unlike european wines,
are identified by grape rather than by wine-growing district.
locally brewed beers and mineral waters are also popular,
and the usual range of beverages are available. Northern Sonoma vineyards, the ideal local
climate for growing the fussy Pinot Noir grape
Red Wine
Vines thrive in the mild climate of Northern California where
cooling fogs help the grapes reach perfection. The main red
wine varieties grown in the region are Cabernet Sauvignon,
Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Zinfandel. Cabernet Sauvignon is still
the prime grape type, with excellent vintages produced in all
major growing regions. Pinot Noir, used in the legendary
French Burgundy wines, has become increasingly popular as
wineries have mastered its temperamental nature, and the
moist Anderson Valley in Sonoma and the Carneros in Napa
Valley have emerged as prime growing regions. Merlot, used in Merlot, often used to
Pinot Noir Cabernet many Bordeaux clarets, and Zinfandel, a bold and full-bodied provide more fruit in a
Sauvignon grape popular in California, are grown all over the state. blend, produces rich,
soft wines on its own.
Red Zinfandel wines can be Cabernet Sauvignon wines

light and fruity, but at their taste of blackcurrants with an Pinot Noir, at its best, has a floral
best are rich, dark, and hearty. acidic edge softened by oak. elegance and a delicate strawberry flavor.
Wine Type Good Vintages Good Producers

Red Wine
Cabernet Sauvignon 07, 04, 03, 02, 97, 96, 94, 93, 91, 90 Caymus Vineyards, Chateau Montelana,
Jordan, Kistler Vineyards, Ridge, Robert
Mondavi, Stag’s Leap, Swanson
Pinot Noir 06, 04, 03, 02, 01, 99, 97, 96, Au Bon Climat, Byron, Calera, Cuvaison,
95, 93, 92, 91 De Loach, Etude, Sanford, Saintsbury
Merlot 05, 04, 02, 01, 99, 96, 95, 91, 90 Chateau St Jean, Duckhorn Vineyards,
Newton, Pine Ridge, Robert Sinskey,
Whitehall Lane Reserve
Zinfandel 08, 03, 01, 96, 95, 91, 90 Clos du Val, Farrell, Fetzer, Frog’s Leap,
Kunde, Rabbit Ridge, Ravenswood,
Ridge, Turley
White Wine
Chardonnay 07, 05, 04, 03, 02, 01, 97, 96, Au Bon Climat, Beringer, Forman, De,
95, 94, 91, 90 Loach, Far Niente Kent Rasmussen,
Kitzler, Peter Michael, Robert Sinskey,
Sterling Vineyards
Semillon 06, 05, 03, 02, 96, 95, 94, 91, 90 Alban, Calera, Cline Cellars, Joseph
Phelps, Niebaum-Coppola, Wild Horse
Sauvignon Blanc 06, 05, 03, 02,99, 97, 96, 95, Cakebread, De Loach, Frogs Leap, Joseph
94, 91, 90 Phelps, Robert Mondavi Winery,
Spottswoode
White Wine
As with red, California’s white
wines are classified by grape
variety, with Chardonnay by
far the most popular of
recent years. Grown
throughout the West Coast
region, this prestige grape Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay is often
produces wines varying in wines range from fermented or aged in
character from dry, light, clean and zingy to French oak barrels, lending
lemon, and vanilla- soft and buttery. it smooth vanilla tones.
scented to the more
headstrong and oaky. You
can also find over 13
other white wine varieties
and blends to try, as well
Chardonnay Organic as organically
Chardonnay grown wines.
White Zinfandel wines, Chenin Blanc, also

often blushed pink, are used in blends, makes
The 1976 Blind Tasting light, sweetish, and easy typically dry, quiet
On May 24, 1976, at a blind tasting organized by to drink. wines on its own.
the English wine consultant Steven Spurrier,
French judges awarded California red (Stag’s Leap
Cabernet Sauvignon 1973, Napa Valley) and white Sparkling Wine
(Chateau Montelana Chardonnay 1973, Napa If proof were needed that California is a
Valley) wines the top prizes in their prime spot for making sparkling wine,
respective categories. Six of then look no farther than the fact that
the top ten in each category the finest French wine producers have
were also California wines, a
huge investments in California. Moët &
result that sent shock waves
through the wine world.
Chandon and Mumm, among others,
Within a decade, a number of have set up wineries in the Napa
illustrious French producers Valley and elsewhere. These
such as Baron de Rothschild companies, along with local producers
had invested in California Schramsberg and Korbel, have helped
wineries of their own. the West Coast establish an
international reputation for excellent
“Champagne” at the right price. Sparkling wine
Beer
The resurgence in small breweries across the US Other Drinks
can fairly be credited to the success of San Coffee drinks of all kinds are available
Francisco’s Anchor brewery, whose Steam Beer, from kiosks, cafés, and restaurants
Liberty Ale, and other products show that across the city; you can also find a
American beer need not be bland and tasteless. great variety of herbal teas.
Other tasty local brews include Mendocino
County’s rich Boont Amber and Red Tail Ale.
Espresso Cappuccino Latte
Water
Health-conscious San
Franciscans avail themselves of
locally produced mineral water,
the best of which comes from
Calistoga in Napa Valley. Many
mineral waters come flavored
with fresh fruit, and most are
Red Tail Ale Liberty Ale Anchor Steam carbonated. The tap water is Calistoga bottled
Beer fresh and clean. water
222  Travelers’ needs
Where to Eat and Drink

Price Guide
Downtown For a three-course meal per person, with
a half-bottle of house wine, including tax
and service.
Ananda Fuara $
vegetarian Map 11 A1 $ under $40
1298 Market St, 94103 $$ $40 to $80
$$$ over $80
Tel (415) 621-1994
A calm and clean, Indian-inspired
haven for vegetarians. Good popular, but also try taro cakes
soups and salads, and the curries and other unusual fare.
are mild.
Nob Hill Café $$
Chutney $ Italian Map 5 B4
Indian and Pakistani Map 5 B5 1152 Taylor St, 94108
511 Jones St, 94102 Tel (415) 776-6500
Tel (415) 931-5541 A little Italian spot with a cozy
Fragrant meat and vegetarian Vibrant neon of the popular House of feel and authentic Tuscan cuisine.
curries, fresh doughy naans Nanking, Chinatown Unpretentious wine list, flavorful
(flatbread), and bottomless chai pasta dishes, and friendly owners.
(tea) at low prices in a clean, Saigon Sandwich $
simple dining room. vietnamese Map 5 A5 Old Ship Saloon $$
560 Larkin St, 94102 american Map 5 C3
Golden Star Vietnamese Tel (415) 474-5698 298 Pacific Ave, 94111
Restaurant $ Ridiculously cheap, delicious Tel (415) 788-2222
vietnamese Map 5 C3 Vietnamese sandwiches. Rich Named after a shipwreck site, this
11 Walter U Lum Pl, 94108 flavors more than make up for Jackson Square pub serves bar
Tel (415) 398-1215 the crude neighborhood. fare in an historic setting.
Big bowls of pho (noodle soup)
in many varieties and flavorful Tommy’s Joynt $ Osha Thai $$
marinated, grilled pork are stand- american Map 4 F4 Thai Map 6 D5
out dishes. Inexpensive, family- 1101 Geary Blvd, 94109 149 2nd St, 94105
friendly, and locally popular. Tel (415) 775-4216 Tel (415) 278-9991
Hearty comfort food in a wacky, Upscale spot offering classic
Henry’s Hunan $ and slightly grubby, setting – a and inventive Thai dishes.
Chinese Map 5 C4 San Francisco institution. Generous entrée portions,
674 Sacramento St, 94111 small appetizers. Try the Volcanic
Tel (415) 788-2234 Closed Sat & Sun Bouche $$ Beef – a favorite here. Or go for
The kitschy red, black, and american-French Map 5 C4 the Angry Prawn, another
bamboo Chinese decor belies 603 Bush St, 94108 innovative preparation.
authentic, blazing-hot Hunan- Tel (415) 956-0396 Closed Sun
style dishes. The Harvest Pork is Away from the hustle and bustle R&G Lounge $$
very popular. of Union Square, this cozy venue Chinese Map 5 C4
has a distinctive Parisian vibe, 631 Kearny St, 94108
House of Nanking $ with a great ambience and Tel (415) 982-7877
Chinese Map 5 C3 elegantly prepared dishes. An upscale restaurant that dishes
919 Kearny St, 94133 out traditional Cantonese fare.
Tel (415) 421-1429 Dosa $$ Salt and pepper crab is a crunchy
This no-frills restaurant piles plates Indian Map 4 D4 fried treat. Also try the seafood
high with delicious, authentic 1700 Fillmore, 94110 or the special beef.
dishes. Lines can be long, espe- Tel (415) 441-3672
cially during dinner. Open till late. Indian crepes – dosas – are the star
attraction here. Excellent, spiced DK Choice
Lers Ros Thai $ dishes and a small wine list. Sam’s Grill and Seafood
Thai Map 4 F3 Restaurant $$
730 Larkin St, 94109 Gaylord India $$ seafood Map 5 C4
Tel (415) 931-6917 Indian Map 6 D3 374 Bush St, 94104
Authentic Thai food, packed with 1 Embarcadero Ctr, 94111 Tel (415) 421-0594 Closed Sat
spices and flavors. Extensive, Tel (415) 397-7775 & Sun
unusual menu. Hip Hayes Valley Amid the Embarcadero Center’s Tucked underneath the
has an upscale sister spot. mostly quick-service eats, this Financial District’s anonymous
place offers traditional Indian towers, this restaurant serves
Mission Chinese Food $ cuisine in a homey setting. Don’t up classic seafood and steak
Chinese Map 10 F3 miss the famed tandoori chicken. lunches to local business
2234 Mission St, 94110 crowds and travelers alike. Tall
Tel (415) 863-2800 Closed Wed Great Eastern $$ wooden booths, brass accents,
A gourmet sensation, with diner Chinese Map 5 C3 and bright afternoon light
prices and ambience. Go there 649 Jackson St, 94133 conjure images of gentlemen in
for blisteringly hot dishes such as Tel (415) 986-2500 hats and dames in gloves. A
chili pickled long beans. Try the Not a typical cart-pushing dim great place for a hearty meal.
beer-brined Sichuan pickle. sum joint. Soup dumplings are
Swan Oyster Depot $$

Seafood Map 5 A4
1517 Polk St, 94109
Tel (415) 673-1101 Closed Sun
Clam chowder and oysters on
the half shell draw huge lunch
crowds to this small café serving
good, fresh seafood.
Yank Sing $$
Chinese Map 6 E4
101 Spear St, 94105
Tel (415) 957-9300 Closed Sun
A typical dim sum experience –
dumplings and other
traditional dishes are wheeled
from table to table. High-
end atmosphere. Open only Gently lit interiors and cozy seating at Michael Mina
for lunch.
Kokkari Estiatorio $$$ Millennium $$$
5A5 Steak Lounge $$$ Greek Map 6 D3 Vegan
Steakhouse Map 6 D3 200 Jackson St, 94111 5912 College Ave, Oakland
244 Jackson St, 94111 Tel (415) 981-0983 Tel (510) 735-9479
Tel (415) 989-2539 Greek fine dining in a room Millennium’s Vietnamese-inspired
Melt-in-your-mouth Japanese with high ceilings and dark cuisine is vegan and the menu
Wagyu beef, among the best wood. Succulent grilled meats doesn’t include any genetically
graded beef globally, sets this pair with flavorful vegetable modified food. Try the chef’s five-
steakhouse apart. Smart dress dishes and excellent course tasting menu. Offers
code on weekends. Greek wines. complimentary carbon and UV
filtered water.
Acquerello $$$ Kuleto’s $$$
italian Map 5 A4 italian Map 5 B3 One Market $$$
1722 Sacramento St, 94109 221 Powell St, 94102 american Map 6 D3
Tel (415) 567-5432 Closed Sun & Tel (415) 397-7720 1 Market St, 94105
Mon Don’t be fooled – this coffee Tel (415) 777-5577 Closed Sun
Dress up and enjoy Acquerello’s shop is a crowd-pleasing, Michelin-starred, meat-focused
elaborate set menus, which upscale restaurant – the menu. Excellent staff, extensive
play with classic and modern perfect place to unwind after wine list. Friday and Saturday prix
interpretations of Italian cuisine. a day of shopping around fixe “whole animal” dinners are
Union Square. a bargain.
Le Colonial $$$
French/Vietnamese Map 5 B4 Michael Mina $$$ Press Club $$$
20 Cosmo Pl, 94109 american Map 6 D4 wine bar Map 5 C5
Tel (415) 931-2933 Closed Sun & 252 California St, 94111 20 Yerba Buena Ln, 94103
Mon Tel (415) 397-9222 Tel (415) 744-5000
This plush restaurant is a Sophisticated, modern American Share delectable small plates that
romantic hideaway away from cuisine with Japanese influences pair well with great wines at this
the hustle and bustle of Union is served at this restaurant. subterranean wine bar. Expansive
Square. It features an inner Tasting menus, unfussy styling, glass menu and plenty of bottles
courtyard that was once and an intimate dining room. to choose from, too.
home to the famous Trader
Vic’s, and offers a great dining Salt House $$$
experience. american Map 6 D4
545 Mission St, 94105
Tel (415) 543-8900
DK Choice Straightforward New American
Farallon $$$ food, heavy on well-prepared
Seafood Map 5 B4 seafood dishes. Try the oysters or
450 Post St, 94102 the day boat scallops. Well-tailored
Tel (415) 956-6969 cocktails and an interesting wine
Decor fit for a mermaid! list. Exposed brick, big windows,
Vaulted ceilings, undersea and an open kitchen.
murals, and gold accents
create a sunken-treasure feel. Tadich Grill $$$
But the beautifully presented, Seafood Map 6 D4
fresh seafood is the real treasure 240 California St, 94111
here. At the equally elaborate Tel (415) 391-1849
Jelly Bar, caviar, oysters, and Historic Gold Rush-era café still
cocktails can be had at very in service. Dark wood, marble
reasonable prices. Experienced, counters, strong drinks, and
personable staff. Diners enjoying a seafood lunch at the seafood piled high. Excellent
bustling Swan Oyster Depot cioppino (fish stew). Great service.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp216–17
Fog City $$ Gary Danko $$$

american Map 5 C2 american Map 5 A1
1300 Battery St, 94111 800 North Point St, 94109
Tel (415) 982-2000 Tel (415) 749-2060
This renovated diner offers an Well-prepared, creative meals
upscale atmosphere and good with straightforward charm and
food at reasonable prices. Pizzas carefully selected ingredients.
are cooked in an authentic oven. Wine and cheese lists curated
from unique, ultra-special
Franchino $$ producers with great diligence.
Italian Map 5 C3 Impeccable service.
347 Columbus Ave, 94133
Tel (415) 982-2157 Closed Mon Scoma’s $$$
Fresh sourdough bread on display A family-run gem serving up seafood Map 5 A1
at Boudin rich sauces, tender gnocchi, Pier 47, 94133
and freshly made pasta in an Tel (415) 771-4383
intimate setting. Service may be This historic seafood spot doesn’t
Fisherman’s Wharf on the slower side. disappoint. Fresh fish, friendly
and North Beach service, and a classic white-
The House $$ tablecloth experience – without
Boudin $ american-asian Map 5 C3 a whiff of stodginess.
american Map 4 F1 1230 Grant Ave, 94133
160 Jefferson St, 94133 Tel (415) 986-8612
Tel (415) 928-1849 Small, congenial restaurant
Famous sourdough bread served dishing up remarkable Asian Golden Gate Park
up as sandwiches. On-site bakery,
with tours for guests. Extensive
fusion amid a sea of Italian fare
nearby. Scallops and other
and Land’s End
children’s menu also available. seafood are standout picks. Service Crepevine $
is accommodating and responsive. american-French Map 9 A2
Caffè Greco $ 624 Irving St, 94121
Italian Map 5 B3 Tel (415) 681-5858
423 Columbus Ave, 94133 DK Choice An expansive menu comprising
Tel (415) 397-6261 The Stinking Rose $$ excellent breakfast and lunch
North Beach is packed with Garlic Map 5 C3 items. Fresh, filling sandwiches,
Italian cafés, but this is one of 325 Columbus Ave, 94133 salads, and crepes.
the best for people-watching, Tel (415) 781-7673
tiramisu, and espresso. Right in the thick of North Gaspare’s Pizza House and
Beach, the Stinking Rose has a Italian Restaurant $
King of Thai (Noodle) $ gimmick that’s worth a try – Italian Map 8 E2
Thai Map 3 A5 garlic for all. Curtained private 5546 Geary Blvd, 94121
639 Clement St, 94118 booths, vintage decor, Tel (415) 387-5025
Tel (415) 752-5198 whimsical memorabilia, and Lasagna and the anchovy pizza
Huge portions of Thai food – murals that celebrate the bulb are popular draws at this classic
especially noodles – that is in culture and cuisine make the Italian spot. Good art on the
both budget-priced and crowd- experience fun. Garlic-flavored walls, but a weak wine list.
pleasing. Open till late. food is buttery, pungent, and
delicious. Garlic-free dishes are Pizzetta 211 $
The Warming Hut $ also available. Pizza Map 2 E5
american Map 2 F2 211 23rd Ave, 94121
Marine Dr and Long Ave, 94129 Tel (415) 379-9880
Tel (415) 561-3042 This small spot offers an ever-
Sip on a refreshing cup of coffee changing menu of pizzas made
or a tasty hot chocolate and with market-fresh ingredients.
enjoy the scenic views at this Good wine list.
café near the Golden Gate Bridge.
San Tung Chinese Restaurant $
Buena Vista Café $$ Chinese Map 8 F3
american Map 5 A1 1031 Irving St, 94122
2765 Hyde St, 94109 Tel (415) 242-0828 Closed Wed
Tel (415) 474-5044 Dry-fried chicken wings are the
The birthplace of the rich, popular draw at this spot, but the
creamy Irish coffee, this place whole menu merits exploration.
dishes out hearty bar food and Long waiting time for dinner.
personable service.
Ton Kiang $
Caffe Sport $$ Chinese Map 8 E1
Italian Map 5 C3 5821 Geary Blvd, 94121
574 Green St, 94133 Tel (415) 387-8273
Tel (415) 981-1251 Closed Sun & Mon Home-made sauces and pickles
The seafood at this Sicilian boost the flavor of classic dim
restaurant will win your heart. sum dishes at this place, which
Sink into the buttery perfection Entrance to the Stinking Rose, a unique specializes in Hakka cuisine. Long
that is the garlic shrimp. garlic-themed restaurant lines on weekend lunchtimes.
DK Choice
Beach Chalet Brewery
& Restaurant $$
american Map 7 A2
1000 Great Hwy, 94122
Tel (415) 386-8439
Stumble across this ocean-view
restaurant on a ramble through
Golden Gate Park. Cheerful
crowds down pints of inventive,
house-brewed beers alongside
standard American dishes.
Sample the elaborate weekend
brunch menu. The lobby is
home to gorgeous original
murals from the 1930s.
Grand exterior of Beach Chalet Brewery & Restaurant, a haven for beer lovers
Burma Superstar $$
Burmese Map 3 A5 Alembic $$$ El Castillito $
309 Clement St, 94118 american Map 9 B1 Mexican Map 10 E1
Tel (415) 387-2147 1725 Haight St, 94117 136 Church St, 94114
Enjoy spicy flavors here. The Tel (415) 666-0822 Tel (415) 621-3428
famous Rainbow Salad – mixed Stop by for a drink – craft beers Inexpensive, enormous burritos,
with 22 different ingredients – and house cocktails – and stay great tortillas, and delicious tacos.
alone is worth the long wait. for dinner; the food is prepared With generous portions, lots of
with inspiration and creative flair. choice, and speedy grillmen this
Cliff House $$ is one of the top taquerias in the
Seafood Map 7 A1 Aziza $$$ city. Nothing fancy; good service.
1090 Point Lobos Ave, 94121 Moroccan Map 8 E1
Tel (415) 386-3330 5800 Geary Blvd, 94121 Cha Cha Cha $
Choose between two restaurants Tel (415) 752-2222 Closed Tue Spanish tapas Map 9 B1
and two bars at this historic, Enjoy artfully crafted cocktails 1801 Haight St, 94117
water’s-edge spot with Pacific and Moroccan-inspired dishes Tel (415) 386-7670
views. A classic bistro that earns that borrow from global flavors You’ll find a lively atmosphere in
top praise. for extra depth. Michelin starred. this tapas- and sangria-serving
Latin American restaurant. The
de Young Cafe $$ small venue can make for a loud
american Map 8 F2 dining experience, but most like
50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr, 94118 Haight Ashbury and the festive vibe.
Tel (415) 750-2630 Castro
Relish American and European Memphis Minnie’s BBQ Joint $
fare while enjoying the view of the BBQ Map 10 E1
De Young museum’s Barbro Osher 576 Haight St, 94117
sculpture garden or opt for a take DK Choice Tel (415) 864-7675 Closed Mon
away to the Golden Gate Park. Amasia Hide’s Sushi Bar $ A long-standing neighborhood
Japanese Map 10 D2 barbecue joint with a big
Ebisu $$ 149 Noe St, 94144 selection of slow-cooked, wood-
Japanese Map 8 F3 Tel (415) 861-7000 smoked meats and a surprisingly
1283 9th Ave, 94122 A chorus of “Irasshaimase!” well-matched sake menu. A great
Tel (415) 566-1770 Closed Mon ( “Come on in!” in Japanese) choice for meat lovers.
Patrons eager for fresh fish sliced greets patrons of this sweet
up by expert, entertaining sushi little neighborhood sushi bar. Mifune $
chefs wait in long lines. Try the Fresh fish and a small selection Japanese Map 4 E4
quail egg-oyster shooter. of other Japanese dishes are 1737 Post St, 94115
available at reasonable prices. Tel (415) 922-0337
Plow $$ When it rains, all sake is Generous portions of authentic
american Map 11 C3 discounted. Origami paper udon, soba, and okonomiyaki –
1299 18th St, 94107 and cat’s cradle entertain Japanese pancakes, – cut through
Tel (415) 821-7569 Closed Mon guests while they wait. the chill of San Francisco’s fog at
Simple, fresh, and delicious food. this Japanese gem.
Excellent lemon ricotta pancakes.
Great spot for brunch. Axum Café $ Pork Store Café $
ethiopian Map 10 D1 american Map 9 C1
The Presidio Social Club $$ 698 Haight St, 94117 1451 Haight St, 94103
american Map 3 C3 Tel (415) 252-7912 Tel (415) 864-6981
563 Ruger St, 94129 Fresh, spongy injera (flatbread) This is a great place to enjoy a
Tel (415) 885-1888 comes piled high with generous hearty breakfast spread. Sample
Located in former military barracks, portions of pungent Ethiopian the Pork Store special, served
this restaurant’s chic decor, vibrant food. Honey wine and Ethiopian with eggs, hashed brown
drinks, and excellent comfort food beer complete the experience. potatoes, and toast. Enormous
make for a great dining experience. Eclectic menu, great value. portions and bottomless coffee.
Zazie $
French Map 9 B2
941 Cole St, 94117
Tel (415) 564-5332
Great food and a pleasant out-
door patio add to the charming
French countryside ambience at
this popular brunch spot. Less
crowded at lunch and dinner.
Indian Oven $$
Indian Map 10 E1
233 Fillmore St, 94117
Tel (415) 626-1628
White tablecloths and
attentive service elevate Chefs rustling up delicious fare in the kitchen at NOPA
classic, flavorful curries and
fresh breads from a good to Jardinière $$$ Greens $$
a great culinary experience. american Map 4 F5 vegetarian Map 4 E1
Don’t miss the samosas. 300 Grove St, 94102 Building A, Fort Mason Center, 94123
Tel (415) 861-5555 Tel (415) 771-6222 Closed Mon
Magnolia Gastropub $$ Both the ultra-romantic dining A vegetarian restaurant that wins
& Brewery room and the casual lounge bar hearts and minds with its
american Map 9 C1 area offer a mouthwatering, flavorful, elegant dishes. For great
1398 Haight St, 94117 produce-filled menu of seasonal views of the Marina Bay, lunch
Tel (415) 864-7468 Californian ingredients. and brunch are best.
This boisterous brewery serves
up excellently executed Zuni Café $$$ Mel’s Drive-In $$
Southern comfort food that american- american Map 3 C3
complements its award-winning Mediterranean Map 10 F1 2165 Lombard St, 94123
craft beers. Small, well-curated 1658 Market St, 94102 Tel (415) 921-2867
wine list. Tel (415) 552-2522 Closed Mon The food at this kitsch,1950s-style
Set in an unusual wedge-shaped place is a crowd-pleasing slice of
NOPA $$ building, this place has warm Americana. Best bets include
american Map 10 D1 and friendly service. Go for the burgers, breakfasts, and the
560 Divisadero St, 94117 restaurant’s chicken and other kids’ menu.
Tel (415) 864-8643 brick-oven specialties.
Warm, friendly atmosphere for The Tipsy Pig $$
enjoying internationally inspired american Map 3 C3
dishes, innovative cocktails, and 2231 Chestnut St, 94123
well-priced wines. The house Pacific Heights and Tel (415) 292-2300
burger is a budget-pleaser. the Marina This American gastro pub serves
comfort food along with a beer
Absinthe Brasserie and Bar $$$ La Mediterranee $ menu. The bar stays open
american Map 3 B5 Middle eastern Map 4 D$ beyond dinner hours. Brunch is
398 Hayes St, 94102 2210 Fillmore St, 94115 served on weekends.
Tel (415) 551-1590 Tel (415) 921-2956
Part Paris, part highbrow New Simple but really tasty Middle
Orleans. Come here for classic Eastern dishes in a subtly ornate DK Choice
cocktails and traditional French setting. The menu includes Umami $$
dishes with a decidedly modern mouthwatering grilled meats, asian fusion Map 4 E2
twist. Excellent bar menu. vegetarian-friendly salads, dips, 2909 Webster St, 94123
and soups. Tel (415) 346-3431
Umami is an exclusive
Balboa Café $$ Japanese tavern serving
american Map 4 D2 standard izakaya fare along
3199 Fillmore St, 94123 with a full sushi menu. Visitors
Tel (415) 921-3944 can drop in on either Thursday,
Mix with the San Francisco elite Friday or Saturday for some
at this wine-centric bistro. Juicy, unique, fresh fish flown in
well-seasoned burgers and specially from Tokyo’s famous
creative seasonal specials are fish market.
worth trying.
Brazen Head $$ 1300 on Filimore $$$

american Map 4 D2 southern Map 4 D5
3166 Buchanan St, 94123 1300 Filimore, 94115
Tel (415) 921-7600 Tel (415) 771-7100
Sister pub and restaurant of This restaurant serves
Liverpool Lil’s (see p227), Brazen traditional southern food
Head dishes up reliable, pub- that is upgraded with
The grand, exquisite interiors of the style food. The escargot is a inventive interpretations
dining room at Jardinière popular draw. Open till late. of low-country standards.
Live music on weekends Limon Rotisserie $

makes this swanky soul food Peruvian Map 10 F3
spot a fun date destination. 1001 South Van Ness Ave, 94110
Tel (415) 821-2134
Mouthwatering, well-seasoned
rotisserie chicken is served with
SoMa and Mission crispy yucca fries, unique salads,
and tasty sauces at bargain prices.
21st Amendment Brewery $
american Map 6 D5 Mission Cheese $
563 2nd St, 94107 Cheese Map 10 F3
Tel (415) 369-0900 736 Valencia St, 94117
Go for the Watermelon Wheat Tel (415) 553-8667 Closed Mon
beer and a toasted sandwich in Cheese shop and restaurant
this homegrown brewpub. Huge specializing in artisan cheeses
portions of food, thick burgers, from the US. Home-made pâté
and cold, frothy pints. and local jams, alongside beer
and wines, round out the offerings. Casual ambience and wood-finish flooring
La Corneta Taqueria $ of 21st Amendment Brewery
Mexican Map 10 F4 Pancho Villa Taqueria $
2731 Mission St, 94110 Mexican Map 10 F2
Tel (415) 643-7001 3071 16th St, 94103 DK Choice
Vivid colors and bright lights Tel (415) 864-8840 SoMa StrEat Food Park $
make this a great dine-in option Famous for its salsas, Pancho Villa international Map 11 A2
for juicy, flavorful burritos. The serves up heaped plates of freshly 428 11th St, 94103
shrimp in particular is spectacular. made Mexican fare including Tel (925) 408-1655
enormous burritos and tacos. A veritable carnival of food
The Grove $ trucks, of every culinary stripe,
american Map 5 C5 roam San Francisco’s streets.
690 Mission St, 94105 DK Choice Don’t chase them around – a
Tel (415) 957-0558 Rhea’s Deli and Market $ rotating selection of trucks
A popular lunchtime spot deli Map 10 F3 converge at this converted
with downtown office workers. 800 Valencia St, 94110 parking lot for convenience.
All-day breakfast, fresh salads, Tel (415) 282-5255 There’s covered seating, a beer
and hearty chicken pot pie. Don’t be fooled by the un- garden, free Wi-Fi, and TVs; sit
Generous portions. Sunny patio. glamorous setting; this hidden and sample away at leisure.
neighborhood gem uses fresh Open late on weekends.
Herbivore $ bakery breads for unusual
Vegan Map 10 F3 sandwiches such as the fiery-
983 Valencia St, 94110 hot Korean BBQ and the salami- Squat and Gobble $
Tel (415) 826-5657 filled Cunningham. Traditional american Map 10 E1
Tuck into huge, creative salads deli options are on offer too. On 237 Fillmore, 94117
and flavorful entrées from global sunny days, take your food to Tel (415) 487-0551
cuisines and wash them down Dolores Park for a picnic and An awkward name doesn’t keep
with fresh smoothies. Delicious people-watching. No seating. the crowds away from the hearty
home-made desserts. Everything breakfasts and mile-high sand-
on the menu is vegan. wiches at this popular brunch
Rosamunde Sausage Grill $ spot. Outdoor patio with convert-
HiDive $ american Map 10 F4 ible canopy and heating lamps.
american Map 6 F4 2832 Mission St, 94110
Pier 28 1/2, 94105 Tel (415) 970-9015 Stacks $
Tel (415) 977-0170 A wide selection of craft beers american Map 4 E5
Sports bar meets working water- on tap, freshly made sausages – 501 Hayes St, 94102
front charm. The upscale versions from traditional to duck and wild Tel (415) 241-9011
of classic bar food here aren’t boar – with dipping sauces. There Serves huge stacks of thick,
fancy, but they are delicious. is a sausage brunch on weekends. fruit-filled pancakes, plus excellent
breakfast skillets, hot omelets,
buttery crepes, tasty waffles, and
refreshing fruit smoothies. Worth
the money for the extensive
breakfast fare and good service.
Open breakfast and lunch only.
Sunflower $
Vietnamese Map 10 F2
3111 16th St, 94103
Tel (415) 626-5022
Inexpensive, hearty bowls of
Vietnamese soup appeal to
vegetarians, but there is plenty
for meat lovers to look forward
to. There are two dining areas.
Crowds enjoying global delicacies at SoMa StrEat Food Park Enter on Valencia Street.
phere, mismatched silverware

and chairs, and doily-heavy decor
– make for an eclectic and
enjoyable experience.
The Monk’s Kettle $$

american Map 10 E2
3141 16th St, 94103
Tel (415) 865-9523
Glamorous pub food and an
extensive beer list. Long lines on
most nights, so get there early.
Reservations not accepted.
Pomelo $$
International Map 10 E5
1793 Church St, 94131
Tel (415) 285-2257
This cosy neighbourhood
restaurant’s small menu packs in
a wide range of classic dishes
from around the world. Reliable
Glassware on display in the bar area at The Monk’s Kettle wine list and champagne
cocktails.
La Taqueria $ Chow $$
Mexican Map 10 F4 american Map 10 E2 Range $$
2889 Mission St, 94110 215 Church St, 94114 american Map 10 F3
Tel (415) 285-7117 Tel (415) 552-2469 842 Valencia St, 94110
This 40-year family-run taqueria Cozy neighborhood restaurant Tel (415) 282-8283
came to national attention with an eclectic menu – A well-tuned seasonal menu
in 2014 when its carnitas comfort food, crisp wood-fired retains crowd favorites such
burrito won an America’s Best pizzas, Asian-inspired salads, as the coffee-rubbed pork
Burrito competition. and daily specials. Guests shoulder, and roasted chicken
can choose from small or year-round.
Tartine Bakery $ large portions.
Bakery Map 10 E3 Schmidt’s $$
600 Guerrero St, 94110 Delancey Street Restaurant $$ German Map 11 A4
Tel (415) 487-2600 american Map 6 E5 2400 Folsom St, 94110
Croissants, bread pudding, and 600 Embarcadero St, 94107 Tel (415) 401-0200
crusty loaves of bread draw fast- Tel (415) 512-5179 Closed Mon Seasonal salads, dozens of
moving lines to this corner café. Part of the Delancey Street sausage options, and out-
Good coffee and sandwiches are Foundation, which provides rageously good spaetzle
available too. job skills to disadvantaged (egg noodle) – with bacon.
individuals, this place Fresh pretzels. Good selection
Thep Phanom Thai Cuisine $ serves excellent cuisine at of German beers.
Thai Map 10 E1 inexpensive prices.
400 Waller St, 94117 South Park Café $$
Tel (415) 431-2526 French Map 11 C1
A lovely place just off Haight DK Choice 108 South Park St, 94107
Street with staff in traditional Thai Gracias Madre $$ Tel (415) 495-7275 Closed Sun
dress. The dishes are good and Mexican Map 10 F2 Trendy ingredients – pork belly,
there’s an interesting drinks 2211 Mission St, 94110 sweetbreads, confits – and
menu to go with the food. Tel (415) 683-1346 traditional dishes blend nicely
A sit-down Mexican joint in the at this laid-back neighborhood
Truly Mediterranean $ Mission – with a California twist. bistro. Park views.
Middle eastern Map 10 F2 Organic vegan ingredients go
3109 16th St, 94110 into the making of remarkable,
Tel (415) 252-7482 original dishes. Spicy guacamole;
Excellent falafel and shawarma thick corn tortillas; rich mole,
(kebab) wraps with fiery hot heavy with chocolate and
sauce. Eggplant and potatoes spice; and cashew-based sour
are done to perfection. Quick cream that’s better than the
and cheap. real thing. Organic house wines
also served.
AsiaSF $$
asian fusion Map 11 A2
201 9th St, 94103 Lovejoy’s Tea Room $$
Tel (415) 255-2742 Closed Mon & Tue Tearoom Map 10 E4
A raucous crowd gathers for 1351 Church St, 94114
the nightly drag show. Male Tel (415) 648-5895 Closed Mon & Tue
servers in high heels dispatch Elegant high-tea service with
acceptable Asian dishes and perfect cream scones and Unassuming entrance to the cozy Lovejoy’s
take turns on stage. Hip decor. English teas. Homey atmos- Tea Room
Intimate bar area and softly lit interiors of the ultra-elegant Gather
Farina $$$ Peter Lowell’s $$

italian Map 10 E2 Northern California american
3560 18th St, 94110 7385 Healdsburg Ave,
Tel (415) 565-0360 Artemis Mediterranean Grill $ Sebastopol, 95472
Chic, elegant Italian cooking, Mediterranean Tel (707) 829-1077
with all dishes freshly made. 2229 Lake Tahoe Blvd, An Italian-inspired menu suits
Outstanding wine selection, South Lake Tahoe, 96150 the fresh produce from
good service, and a gorgeous, Tel (530) 542-2500 California’s Mediterranean
well-lit dining room. Menu is mostly Greek, but not climate. Fresh, flavorful foods
exclusively; Mediterranean with a focus on sustainable
extends to whatever is in and organic ingredients.
Farther Afield season. Try the home-made Patio-style seating; warm and
pastas and morel mushrooms. friendly service.
Bette’s Oceanview Diner $
american Bite $$ Table 128 $$
1807 4th St, Berkeley, 94710 american american
Tel (510) 644-3230 907 Lake Tahoe Blvd, 14050 Hwy 128,
Diner-style breakfast joint that Incline Village, 89451 Boonville, 95415
draws city crowd across the bay. Tel (775) 831-1000 Tel (707) 895-2210 Closed Seasonal
Hearty portions , famous scones, The small plates of American A romantic setting with a
and Pennsylvania-style scrapple. classics are meant for sharing. casual, California-rustic
Check out the long, double- atmosphere. Great fixed-price
Sunny Side Café $ sided bar, which serves menus. Seasonal ingredients,
american great cocktails. unpretentious dishes, and a
2136 Oxford St, Berkeley, 94704 well-selected wine list.
Tel (510) 845-9900 The Girl & the Fig $$ Reservations required.
This pleasing sidewalk café, known american-French
for using sustainable ingredients, 110 West Spain St, Sonoma, 95476 Barndiva $$$
has an expansive breakfast menu, Tel (707) 938-3634 american
and great diner coffee. A rotating menu showcases 231 Center St,
Sonoma ingredients in simple, Healdsburg 95448
Tamarindo Antojeria $$ beautiful dishes, alongside a Tel (707) 431-0100 Closed Mon & Tue
Mexican well-chosen wine list. Bar A spacious, contemporary
468 8th St, Oakland, 94607 seating is pleasantly atmospheric. dining room; warm and
Tel (510) 444-1944 Closed Sun Extensive Sunday brunch. friendly service; and a menu
Rich, savory flavors highlight Don’t miss the “cheese station,” that provides delicious, locally
regional, seasonal Mexican and do try the platters. sourced dishes.
dishes. The small plates can be
shared between large groups.
DK Choice
Gather $$$
american
2200 Oxford St, Berkeley, 94704
Tel (510) 809-0400
The spacious dining room here
feels as intimate and cozy as a
café. The menu changes often
and features seasonal ingredients.
Creative vegetable dishes
appeal to both vegetarians and
carnivores alike but there’s plenty
of meat on the menu too. Also
on offer are brick-oven pizzas
with delicious toppings.
Modest exteriors of The Girl & the Fig, Sonoma
San Francisco’s Cafés Café Mocha, near the Civic

Center, has terrific coffee and
You need never search long for a place in which to taste the pastries. Francophiles will
morning flavors of San Francisco. The city is known to be a appreciate Café Claude, an
paradise for coffee-lovers, as it teems with excellent cafés. attractive French café with
old furnishings rescued from
Connoisseurs should head for those clustered in North Beach a Paris bar that is tucked away
and the Mission District, to sample and enjoy local delights. in an alley near Union Square.
Café de la Presse, across from
the Chinatown Gateway, is
Cafès well worth a visit. This neighbor the place to catch up with
With so many cafés from which hood, as well as SoMa, is a draw international periodicals.
to choose, you could spend days for many visitors because it is SoMa coffee and food choices
sampling and never visit the dotted with roasteries. range from Café du Soleil
same place twice. With Beatniks frequented tiny and Grove Café in Yerba
locations throughout the Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Store Buena to the combination
city, Peet’s Coffee & Tea has Café with Washington Square café, entertainment venue,
offered dark, strong coffee for views; try a double latte with and laundromat Brainwash.
four decades. Emporio Rulli Il focaccia. Vesuvio (see p258) Schubert’s Bakery and
Caffè is ensconced on Union serves superb espresso. At Stella Toy Boat Dessert Café are
Square. The Caffè Trieste, in Pastry, order cappuccino with situated on Clement Street.
North Beach, is an old the specialty rum, marsala, Momi Toby’s Revolution Café
bohemian haunt that serves and sherry zabaglione sponge & Art Bar combines Hayes
excellent coffee. It also has a cake, Sacripantina. Valley java and artwork and
jukebox that plays songs from In the Mission District try live music. Also in Hayes Valley
Italian opera, and family Café La Bohème, frequented is the charming Arlequin Café,
members who sing and play by the San Franciscan literary with its communitygarden
instruments on occasional set. The stylish Café Flore on seating area. Check out the
weekend afternoons. Columbus Market Street has charming Inner Sunset District art and
Avenue’s Caffè Greco, Caffè outdoor seating and serves entertainment with a
Puccini, and Caffè Roma are also great lunch options, while coffee at the Beanery.
DIRECTORY
Cafès Café Mocha Caffè Trieste Peet’s Coffee & Tea
505 Van Ness Ave. 601 Vallejo St. 22 Battery St.
Arlequin Café Map 4 F5. Map 6 D4.
Map 5 C3.
384 Hayes St. Tel 4372233. Tel 9814550.
Tel 9822605.
Map 4 E5.
Café de la Presse Schubert’s Bakery
Tel 6261211. Emporio Rulli 521 Clement St.
352 Grant Ave.
Il Caffè Map 3 A5.
Beanery Map 5 C4.
333 Stockton St, Tel 7521580.
1307 9th Ave. Tel 3982680.
Union Square. Stella Pastry
Map 8 F3.
Café du Soleil Map 5 C5.
Tel 6611255. 446 Columbus Ave.
345 3rd St. Tel 4331122. Map 5 B3.
Brainwash Map 6 D5. Tel 9862914.
1122 Folsom St. Tel 6996154. Grove Café
Toy Boat
Map 11 A1. Caffè Greco 690 Mission St.
Dessert Café
Tel 8613663. 423 Columbus Ave. Map 6 D5. 401 Clement St.
Map 5 B3. Tel 9570558. Map 3 A5.
Café La Bohème
Tel 3976261. Tel 7517505.
3318 24th St. Mario’s Bohemian
Map 10 F4. Caffè Puccini Cigar Store Café Vesuvio
Tel 6430481. 411 Columbus Ave. 566 Columbus Ave. 255 Columbus Ave.
Map 5 B3. Map 5 C3.
Café Claude Map 5 B2.
Tel 9897033. Tel 3623370.
7 Claude La. Tel 3620536.
Map 5 C4. Caffè Roma
Momi Toby’s
Tel 3923505. 526 Columbus Ave.
Map 5 B3. Revolution Café
Café Flore Tel 2967942. & Art Bar
2298 Market St. 885 Bryant St. 528 Laguna St.
Map 10 D2. Map 11 B2. Map 10 E1.
Tel 6218579. Tel 2967662. Tel 4005689.
Light Meals and Snacks offers two dozen different

burgers, all of which are named
if you do not have the time to sit down for a full meal, you after local celebrities, while
can get a quick bite to eat almost anywhere in San Francisco. Sparky’s near the Castro serves
Many establishments serve good fast food at low prices, but up juicy burgers 24 hours a day.
if you look for them, you can find places that offer
something a little special. Pizzerias
San Francisco has many good
Breakfast the Civic Center, Miller’s East pizzerias, mostly in North Beach.
Coffee and pastries, or bacon Coast Deli in Russian Hill, and Choose between the traditional
and eggs, are easy to find in San Molinari’s in North Beach Tommaso’s, the popular North
Francisco, or you can have a full are also worth a visit. The Beach Pizza, and the hectic, but
American breakfast that will Real Food Deli/Grocery, also excellent, Golden Boy. For a
sustain you all day. Sears Fine in Russian Hill, specializes in really exotic pizza, try Pauline’s
Foods in Union Square is an organic food. in the Mission District or the
institution, popular for its chain pizzeria Extreme Pizza
wonderful early morning meals. in Pacific Heights.
Le Petit Café serves great Hamburger Places
brunches on weekends. Hotel While you can get a quick
dining rooms offer good hamburger and fries at all of the Mexican Food
breakfasts, as do a few usual franchises, you would do Mexican food, which is tasty
restaurants (see pp222–9). better to try one of San and often extremely
Francisco’s more unique places. inexpensive, is sold by vendors
The Grubstake, housed in a all over the city. For a delicious
Delis converted streetcar, is open late, snack, try El Farolito, Pancho
If you want a perfect corned Mel’s Drive-In is a 1950s-style Villa Taqueria, Roosevelt’s
beef on rye sandwich try café, and Louis’ has unbeatable Tamale Parlor, or El Metate.
David’s, the largest and most views over the remains of the For a treat before or after a
central delicatessen in San Sutro Baths (see p159). Bill’s movie, try El Super Burrito –
Francisco. Tommy’s Joynt in Place in the Richmond District great prices and large portions.
DIRECTORY
Breakfast Real Food Deli/ Mel’s Drive-In Tommaso’s
Grocery 3355 Geary Blvd. 1042 Kearny St
Le Petit Café Map 3 B5. at Broadway.
2140 Polk St.
1 Maritime Pl. Tel 387-2244. Map 5 C3.
Map 5 A3. Tel 398-9696.
Map 6 D3. Sparky’s
Tel 673-7420.
Tel 951-8514. 242 Church St. Mexican Food
Tommy’s Joynt Map 10 E2.
Sears Fine Foods
1101 Geary Blvd. Tel 626-8666. El Farolito
439 Powell St. 2779 Mission St.
Map 5 A5.
Map 5 B4. Pizzerias Map 10 F4.
Tel 775-4216.
Tel 986-0700. Tel 824-7877.
Extreme Pizza
Delis Hamburger 1980 Union St. El Metate
Places Map 4 D3. 2406 Bryant St.
Tel 929-8234. Map 11 A4.
David’s
Bill’s Place Tel 641-7209.
474 Geary St. Golden Boy
Map 5 B5. 2315 Clement St. 542 Green St. Pancho Villa Taqueria
Map 2 D5. Map 5 B3. 3071 16th St.
Tel 276-5950.
Tel 982-9738. Map 10 F2.
Tel 221-5262.
Miller’s East North Beach Pizza Tel 864-8840.
Coast Deli Grubstake 800 Stanyan St. Roosevelt’s Tamale
1725 Polk St. 1525 Pine St. Map 9 B2. Parlor
Map 4 F3. Map 4 F4. Tel 751-2300. 2817 24th St.
Tel 563-3542. Tel 673-8268. 1462 Grant Ave. Map 10 F4.
Map 5 C2. Tel 824-2600.
Molinari’s Louis’ Tel 433-2444.
El Super Burrito
373 Columbus Ave. 902 Point Lobos Ave.
Pauline’s 1200 Polk St.
Map 5 C3. Map 7 A1. 260 Valencia St. Map 5 A5.
Tel 421-2337. Tel 387-6330. Map 10 F2. Tel 552-2050. Tel 771-9700.
SHOPPING IN SAN FRANCISCO

Shopping in San Francisco is much more welcome, particularly in the city’s many
than simply making a purchase, it’s an small specialty shops and boutiques. If you
experience that allows a glimpse into the want convenience, the shopping centers,
city’s culture. An enormous range of goods malls, and department stores are excellent.
is available here, from the practical to the For those in search of local color, each
eccentric, and you can take your time in neighborhood shopping district has a
choosing because browsers are generally charm and personality of its own.
exchange policies. Shops Shopping Tours

cannot charge a fee to those If you want to be guided to the
using credit cards, but you may best shops, you may want to go
get a discount for cash. If you on a special tour. These are
have a problem that shop organized by companies such
management cannot solve, the as Glamour Girl Shopping Tours
Consumer Protection Unit or or Shopper Stopper Shopping
the California Department of Tours. A guide takes you from
Consumer Affairs may help. shop to shop and usually
Useful numbers Consumer knows where to find just the
Protection Unit Tel 551-9575. right things.
California Department of Consumer Useful numbers Glamour Girl
Affairs Tel (1) (800) 952-5210. Shopping Tours Tel (650) 218-1734.
∑ glamourgirlshoppingtours.com;
Shopper Stopper Shopping Tours
Sales Tel (707) 829-1597.
End-of-the-month, holiday, and
pre-season sales are common
Emporio Armani (see p239) in many stores. Keep an eye out Malls and Shopping
for advertisements in local Centers
When to Shop newspapers where these are In contrast with a great many
Most shops in San Francisco announced, especially mid- suburban shopping malls,
open at 10am and stay open week and Sundays. Shop those of San Francisco have
until 8pm, Monday to Saturday. early for the best bargains, character, and one or two
Many malls and department and beware of
stores also remain open until “Going out of
later in the evening and on business” signs –
Sundays. Stores are quietest in these can be left up
the mornings, but can be hectic for years. Some are
at lunchtime (noon–2pm), legitimate sales; just
on Saturdays, and during sales ask at nearby shops.
and holidays.
Taxes
How to Pay A sales tax of 8.75
Major credit cards are accepted percent is added to
at most shops, although there all purchases made
will often be a minimum in San Francisco.
purchase price. Traveler’s Note that this is
checks must be accompanied not refundable to
by identification, and foreign overseas visitors,
checks or foreign currency unlike the European
are rarely taken. Some smaller Value Added Tax
shops will allow only cash (VAT), but you are
purchases. exempt if your
purchases are
forwarded to any
Consumer Rights destination outside
and Services California. Foreign
Keep your receipts as proof of visitors may have to
purchase. Each shop sets and pay duty at customs
displays its own return and on arrival home. Flags and pagoda at the Japan Center
SHOPPING IN SAN FRANCISCO  233
customers an outstanding luxury handbags, accessories,

selection of goods and services. cosmetics, and shoes.
The frequent sales can get quite Another famous depart-
frantic as locals and visitors ment store in the Bay Area
jostle for bargains. All sorts of is Kohl’s, which carries
extra services are available to quality clothing, shoes,
make shoppers feel pampered, accessories, and jewelry at
including cloakrooms where discounted prices.
you can leave your belongings,
assistants to guide you around Best Buys
the store, free gift wrapping, and Gourmet shoppers should
beauty salons offering treatments. look for seafood, one of the
Macy’s department store city’s specialties. Wine from
spans two city blocks. It stocks California is another good buy,
an enormous range of goods, particularly in the Napa Valley
all beautifully presented and (see pp192–5). You will find blue
sold by an enthusiastic sales jeans at competitive prices,
Flower stall on Union Square force. It offers all sorts of extra also vintage clothing, ethnic
facilities, including a currency art, books, and records.
are of architectural interest. exchange and an interpreting
The Embarcadero Center (see service. The men’s department Addresses
p112) has more than 125 shops, is particularly extensive.
in an area covering eight blocks. Neiman Marcus is another Bloomingdale’s
Ghirardelli Square (see p87) was stylish emporium, housed in a 845 Market St. Map 5 C5.
a chocolate factory from 1893 modern building that caused Tel 856-5300.
until the early 1960s. It is now a a furor when it was opened in Kohl’s
mall that is popular with visitors, 1982, replacing a popular store 1200 El Camino Real, Colma,
and houses over 70 restaurants built in the 1890s. The huge CA 94014. Tel (650) 992-0155.
and shops, overlooking San stained-glass dome in its
Macy’s
Francisco Bay. Rotunda Restaurant was part
Stockton and O’Farrell Sts.
The Westfield San Francisco of the original building, and is Map 5 C5. Tel 397-3333.
Centre (see p119) has nine levels well worth coming to see.
and contains more than 65 Nordstrom, good for fashion Neiman Marcus
shops. PIER 39 (see p82) is a and shoes, is known in the city 150 Stockton St. Map 5 C5.
marketplace on the waterfront, as the “store-in-the-sky,” as it is Tel 362-3900.
with restaurants, a double- located on the top five floors Nordstrom
decker Venetian merry-go- of the innovative Westfield San Westfield San Francisco Centre,
round, a marina, and many Francisco Centre. 865 Market St. Map 5 C5.
specialty shops. In the Cannery Bloomingdale’s offers a Tel 243-8500.
(see p87), located at Fisherman’s huge range of designer labels,
Wharf, you will find a variety
of charming small shops, while
the Crocker Galleria (see p118)
is one of the city’s most
spectacular malls, with three
floors under a high glass dome
built around a central plaza.
The Japan Center (see p130),
complete with pagoda, offers
exotic foods, goods, and art
from the East, as well as a
Japanese-style hotel and
traditional baths. The Rincon
Center (see p115), with a 90-ft
(27-m) water column at its
center, is an Art Deco haven
for shopping and eating.
Department Stores
Most of San Francisco’s major
department stores are in or near
Union Square. They are huge
emporia that offer their Display of goods inside Gump’s department store (see p237)
San Francisco’s Best: Shopping

It is the diversity of San Francisco’s stores
that makes buying anything here such an
adventure. Some of the best shopping
areas are described below, each reflecting
a different aspect of the city. Window
shoppers will find glittering displays in
Union Square, while bargain hunters
should visit the South of Market outlets.
Street Fairs
Arts, crafts, and specialty foods are sold from booths
at neighborhood fairs like this one on Union Street,
held in June.
Pacific
Heights
and the
Marina
Union Street
Clusters of boutiques in converted Victorian
houses sell antiques, books, and clothes on this Presidio
busy street (see p239).
Civic Center
Golden Gate Park

0 kilometers 2 and Land’s End
0 miles 1
Haight Street
Haight Ashbury
This is the best place in
and the Mission
San Francisco for vintage
clothes, record shops,
and books (see pp242–3).
Japan Center
You can buy authentic food and goods
from Japan here, and visit Japanese bars
and galleries (see p130).
SHOPPING IN SaN fraNcIScO  235
UN Plaza
Named after the signing of the
United Nations Charter, this is the
site of the twice-weekly Farmers’
Market (see pp244–5).
Grant Avenue
With its painted balconies,
souvenir shops, and bars, this
is Chinatown’s main tourist
street (see p244). Crocker Galleria
Fisherman’s
Wharf and Elegant shops fill the three floors of this
North Beach impressive modern mall, with daylight
flooding in through the glass roof. You can
Financial picnic in the rooftop gardens on
District and sunny days (see p242).
Chinatown Union Square
and Nob
Hill
Saks Fifth Avenue

A department store
synonymous with
exclusive style and
elegance (see p118).
Shopping around Union Square

Serious shoppers should concentrate on the blocks
bordered by Geary, Powell and Post streets, and on the
Jackson Square surrounding blocks between Market and Sutter streets.
Antique Shops Here, luxurious shops and inexpensive boutiques sell
Lovers of antiques will enjoy everything from designer sheets to pedigree dogs to
browsing in the shops in souvenirs. Big hotels, splendid restaurants, and colorful
Jackson Square (see p112). flower stalls all add to the atmosphere.
ST
SU TT ER
GRAN
PLACE
TON
STO
CAMP
Tiffany & Co.

T
Saks
CKT
POW
ET
STRE Gumps
POST
ON
AVEN
ELL
LANE
EN
UNION MAID
SQUARE
UE
Chanel
Westin St Francis ET
Hotel STRE
G EARY
Emporio
STR
Armani
Hotel Macy's ET
STRE
Nordstrom Stratford Macy's RE

EET
ST
This fashion store is located in STRE
ET
ET
ET
the gleaming Westfield Centre, LL RK

RRE A
which has 400 shops filling nine O'FA M
floors (see p233).
San Francisco Specials

Entrepreneurial spirit in San Francisco is strong and Schein offers an impressive
innovative. Owners of small shops, designers, and buyers take collection of antique maps,
much pride in bringing unusual and hand-crafted wares to books, and engraved prints,
including many from the 14th
their customers, and will often tell you the histories of these
to the 19th centuries.
original items. From comic postcards to fine hand-crafted
Florentine paper, and from Chinese herbal teas to high-tech
electronic gadgets, all kinds of goods are available. Nestling Toys, Games, and
Gadgets
in hidden corners or clustered with other tiny shops, these
specialty outlets create an environment that makes shopping The Academy Store and the
Exploratorium Store sell books,
in San Francisco an exciting experience. kits, and games that make
learning fun. At Puppets on
Specialty Shops temporary fix for the the Pier, on PIER 39, new
Luxurious handbags, luggage, acquisitive urge. Here are a owners get puppetry lessons
accessories, and scarves are few establishments that cater in the shop. There are over 500
the hallmark of Coach, one of to those shoppers who care different puppets to choose
America’s preeminent designers. enough to make a contribution. from, including marionettes
This city outlet also has friendly Proceeds from Out of the and finger puppets. The
and attentive staff. At Comix Closet, a treasure trove of a comprehensively stocked
Experience you can find a wide thrift store, directly benefit the Gamescape sells any type of
range of comic books and AIDS Healthcare Foundation. game that doesn’t require
memorabilia from the The Golden Gate National electricity, such as traditional
newest offerings to antique, Park Store is a not-for-profit gameboards, collectible cards,
expensive oldies. shop offering park memorabilia, and role-playing books.
Exquisite Italian ceramics postcards, maps, and books. The Chinatown Kite Shop
(majolica) are on display at All the profits made at Under takes shopping to new
Biordi Art Imports in North One Roof benefit various groups heights, displaying an
Beach, where hand-painted working to help San Francisco extraordinary assortment of
dishware, vases, and platters Bay Area men, women, and flying objects. These range from
of all sizes are for sale. Those children living with HIV/AIDS. traditional to World Champion
who would like to experience stunt kites, all making attractive
the authentic atmosphere of souvenirs. In the heart of the
Chinatown will find it at Souvenirs Inner Sunset District, anything
Ten Ren Tea Company of All sorts of souvenirs, such as and everything related to magic
San Francisco. At Golden Gate T-shirts, keyrings, mugs, and can be found at Misdirections
Fortune Cookie Factory (see Christmas ornaments, are Magic Shop, a paradise for
p101), descendants of Chinese decorated with motifs serious magicians or those who
immigrants allow customers symbolizing San Francisco simply want to buy a few tricks.
to taste samples before buying at Only in San Francisco and
the San Francisco fortune the Cable Car Store. Souvenir
cookies, which were a and novelty caps of every color, Museum Shops
Chinatown invention. Sixty- shape, and size are available Museum shopping is another
year-old Flax Art and Design at Krazy Kaps, while shop option for visitors to San
features a huge selection of entrances in Grant Avenue Francisco, and shops offer
handmade papers, customized and Fisherman’s Wharf are delightful and exquisite gifts to
stationery, and artist’s tools. lined with baskets filled suit all budgets, ranging from
Precious gems, glittering gold, with inexpensive gifts. science kits to reproduction
and watches by some of the jewelry and sculpture. In San
world’s finest jewelers can be Francisco’s Golden Gate Park,
found at Tiffany & Co. and Antiques visit the Academy Store in the
Bulgari. Elle-meme is a unique Set in San Francisco’s most California Academy of Sciences
specialty store that carries sophisticated shopping area is (see pp152–3), one of the
exquisite vintage jewelry dating the Sacramento Street Antique leading science and natural
from as far back as the 1880s. Dealer’s Association. This history museums in America.
collection of stores offers an Here aspiring naturalists can
array of antiques from furniture purchase dinosaur models,
Shops for a Good Cause to small household items. realistic rubber animals, and
San Franciscans take great It is a shoppers’ paradise that gifts that are environmentally
pleasure in shopping for a is great for browsing. friendly. Merchandise based on
good cause: it assuages the Located in the North Beach the Academy’s Far Side Gallery,
conscience, and provides a District of the city, Schein and which displays the work of
cartoonist Gary Larsen, is also There is a great deal to intrigue accessories for home and
for sale. Nearby, there is also young scientists at the unique office. In fact, the shop is
a fine assortment of items at Exploratorium Store (see p94). worth a visit just to see the
the de Young Museum shop. Here they will find all the stunning new building
At Lincoln Park the Legion equipment they need for designed by Norwegian based
of Honor Museum Store scientific experiments, games architecture firm, Snøhetta.
(see pp158–9) offers many based on topics ranging from Gump’s (see p118) is so
beautiful selections based astronomy to zoology, and splendid it could almost be
on current exhibitions. how-to-do-it books and toys. mistaken for a museum. Many
The Asian Art Museum In the San Francisco Museum of the items are American or
shop in the Civic Center is of Modern Art (see pp120–23), European antiques, limited
well stocked with books the San Francisco MOMA editions, or one of a kind. Well-
and objects that reflect Museum Store sells a wide heeled residents and visitors
the museum’s area of range of beautifully printed art come here for furniture, fine art,
interest, including ceramics, books, posters, greetings cards, china, crystal, jewelry, and gifts.
basketry, textiles, jewelry, and colorful T-shirts, as well as The shop itself has had a long
sculpture, paintings and artistically designed bags, and storied history, having
prints, and furniture. jewelry, watches and been established in 1861.
DIRECTORY
Specialty Shops Tiffany & Co. Schein and Schein de Young Museum
350 Post St. 1435 Grant Ave. 50 Tea Garden Dr,
Biordi Art Imports Map 5 C4. Map 5 C2. Golden Gate Park.
412 Columbus Ave. Tel 781-7000. Tel 399-8882. Map 8 F2.
Map 5 C3. Tel 750-3642.
Tel 392-8096. Shops for a Toys, Games, Exploratorium Store
Good Cause and Gadgets Pier 9.
Bulgari
Golden Gate Academy Store Map 6 D2.
200 Stockton St. Tel 528-4857.
National Park Store See Museum Shops.
Map 5 C5.
Presidio Bldg 983. Gump’s
Tel 399-9141. Chinatown Kite Shop
Map 2 F2. 135 Post St.
717 Grant Ave.
Coach Tel 561-3040. Map 5 C4.
Map 5 C3.
190 Post St. Out of the Closet Tel 989-5182. Tel 982-1616.
Map 5 C4. 1498 Polk St. Legion of Honor
Map 4 F4. Exploratorium Store
Tel 392-1772.
See Museum Shops.
Museum Store
Tel 771-1503. Legion of Honor,
Comix Experience Gamescape Lincoln Park.
Under One Roof
305 Divisadero St. 333 Divisadero St. Map 1 B5.
518a Castro St.
Map 10 D1. Map 10 D1. Tel 750-3677.
Map 10 D1.
Tel 863-9258. Tel 503-2300. Tel 621-4263.
San Francisco MOMA
Elle-meme Misdirections Museum Store
Souvenirs Magic Shop Museum of Modern Art.
1210 Union St.
1236 9th Ave. Map 6 D5.
Map 4 F2. Cable Car Store
Map 9 A2. Tel 357-4035.
Tel 921-2100. PIER 39.
Tel 566-2180. ∑ museumstore.
Map 5 B1.
Flax Art and Design sfmoma.org
Tel 989-2040. Puppets on the Pier
1699 Market St. PIER 39.
Krazy Kaps
Map 10 F1. Map 5 B1.
PIER 39.
Tel 552-2355. Map 5 B1. Tel 781-4435.
Golden Gate Tel 296-8930.
Museum Shops
Fortune Cookie Only in San Francisco
Factory PIER 39. Map 5 B1. Academy Store
56 Ross Alley. Tel 397-0143. California Academy
Map 5 C3. of Sciences,
Antiques 55 Music Concourse Dr.
Tel 781-3956.
Map 8 F2.
Sacramento Street
Ten Ren Tea Company Tel 933-6159.
Antique Dealers
of San Francisco Association Asian Art Museum
949 Grant Ave. 3599 Sacramento St. 200 Larkin St.
Map 5 C3. Map 3 B4. Map 4 F5. Tel 581-3500.
Tel 362-0656. Tel 637-5837. ∑ asianart.org
Clothes and Accessories brands at discounted prices.

Though about an hour away from
San Francisco has a reputation for sophistication, which, judging San Francisco, given the array of
from its clothing shops, is richly deserved. No matter what the clothes on offer the visit would
occasion requires, from a designer outfit for a formal event to the certainly be a shoppers’ delight.
comfort of a pair of jeans, you will find it in San Francisco. Find fashion outlets for Liz
Claiborne, Off 5th Saks Fifth
August Fashion Week runway shows boost reputations of Avenue, Brooks Brothers, as
emerging designers from the San Francisco Bay Area, the West well as OshKosh and Gap for
Coast, and New York. Unlike the department stores (see p233), children’s garments, and Bass
which offer a wide selection, most of the shops listed below are and Nine West for shoes, at
small or medium-sized, and often focus on just one or two the large Petaluma Village
Premium Outlets, 46 miles
lines. Take time to see these true gems of the retail world.
(74 km) north of the city.
Fifty miles (80 km) southeast
of San Francisco in Milpitas,
San Francisco and Other retail prices. Jeremy’s, in Great Mall outlets stock some
US Designers Berkeley, discounts formal of the best brands. The more
Lines by American designers clothing and designer-wear for popular names include Tommy
are sold in boutiques within a both men and women. Sports Hilfiger, Eddie Bauer, Polo Jeans
department store or in exclusive Basement is a mecca of Factory Store, St. John Knits, and
shops under the designer’s name. sportswear at discount prices. Chico’s casual women’s styles.
Retailers such as Wilkes Bashford
feature up-and-coming designers
with a bent for conservative Bay Area Mall Outlets Castro District
clothing that would be a perfect Plan a drive to the Bay Area mall Clothing and accessories
option for current denizens of outlets, for a good bargain or accent the dominant gay,
the Financial District. take home major designer lesbian, and transgendered
San Francisco designer shops
to discover include Diana Size Chart
Slavin for classic Italian styles,
For Australian sizes, follow the British conversion.
Joanie Char for chic sports-
wear separates, and Upper Children’s clothing
Playground for SF-inspired American 2–3 4–5 6–6x 7–8 10 12 14 16 (size)
British 2–3 4–5 6–7 8–9 10–11 12 14 14+ (years)
T-shirts with original designs.
Continental 2–3 4–5 6–7 8–9 10–11 12 14 14+ (years)
Emporio Armani Boutique
has an impressive selection Children’s shoes
American 8½ 9½ 10½ 11½ 12½ 13 1½ 2½ 2½
of clothing and accessories.
British 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 1 2
Fashionable knits for women Continental 24 25½ 27 28 29 30 32 33 34
can be purchased at Weston
Women’s dresses, coats, and skirts
Wear at rock-bottom prices.
American 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
Designer Sunhee Moon British 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
names each of her 1950s- Continental 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
influenced clothing items
Women’s blouses and sweaters
after friends. MAC, or Modern American 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
Appealing Clothing, sources British 30 32 34 36 38 40 42
one-third of its menswear, as Continental 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
well as womenswear, from Women’s shoes
San Francisco designers. American 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
British 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Continental 36 37 38 39 40 41 44
Discount Designer
Clothes and Outlets Men’s suits
American 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
For designer clothes at British 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
concessional rates, head to the Continental 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
SoMa (South of Market) area. Men’s shirts
Yerba Buena Square contains American 14 15 15½ 16 16½ 17 17½ 18
several kinds of outlets, British 14 15 15½ 16 16½ 17 17½ 18
including Burlington Coat Continental 36 38 39 41 42 43 44 45
Factory, which stocks more than Men’s shoes
12,000 coats. Here you can find American 7 7½ 8 8½ 9½ 10½ 11 11½
discounted lines from many local British 6 7 7½ 8 9 10 11 12
designers. Skechers USA offers Continental 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46
a wide variety of shoes at below
lifestyles in this neighborhood; Hayes Valley that appeals to the younger

shopping is amusing as well Proclaiming their taste for set, who patronize clubs that
as intriguing. If a garment’s progressive style, the people seem to blossom from nowhere
function or how to wear it is at Acrimony pride themselves at night.
unclear, don’t hesitate to ask. on delivering an assortment
Citizen Clothing is a particularly of contemporary designers.
well-stocked store. It is all about independence Union Square
and an evolving style at this You won’t find stiff-collared
über-hip, street-smart shop. work shirts or ties at this
Fillmore outpost of John Varvatos.
Fillmore Street’s Victorian A truly American sensibility
buildings and the creation of Noe Valley defines this designer’s lifestyle
the Jazz Preservation District Beautiful clothing carefully brand, which is a favorite of
lend hip history and ambience tweaked to suit a woman’s many LA celebrities. The clothes
to this strolling strip, known lifestyle can be found at have attitude, whether it be
for adorable boutique shops boutique Rabat, in this hip athletic punk or vintage-
such as Joie. part of town. Their shoes are inspired sportswear.
stylish and comfortable and
their handbags well designed
Haight Ashbury and fashionable. Union Street
Wandering along Haight Street, It is a short walk from the
it is easy to spot tie-dye T-shirts nearby apartments and
and vintage clothing stores. South of Market mansions to this cheerful
Piedmont Boutique’s landmark The SoMa area, once full of street of small boutiques.
giantess legs adorned with warehouses and flophouses, Mimi’s on Union touts
fishnet stockings mark one now has swanky studios and wearable art like hand-
store where clothing patterns lofts aplenty. It still possesses painted kimonos, scarves,
are still cut by hand. a gritty, no-nonsense quality and jackets.
DIRECTORY
San Francisco Weston Wear Bay Area Mall Hayes Valley
and Other US 569 Valencia St. Outlets
Acrimony
Designers Map 10 F2.
333 Hayes St.
Tel 621-1480. Great Mall
Diana Slavin 447 Great Mall Dr, Map 4 F5.
3 Claude Lane.
Wilkes Bashford Milpitas. Tel 861-1025.
375 Sutter St. Tel 408-956-2033.
Map 5 C4. Noe Valley
Map 5 C4.
Tel 677-9939. Petaluma Village
Tel 986-4380.
Premium Outlets Rabat
Emporio Armani 4001 24th St.
Boutique Discount 2220 Petaluma Blvd,
Map 10 D4.
1 Grant Ave. Designer Clothes North Petaluma. Tel 282-7861.
Map 5 C5. and Outlets Tel 707-778-9300.
Tel 677-9400. Burlington Coat
Union Square
Castro District
Joanie Char Factory John Varvatos
537 Sutter St. 899 Howard St. Citizen Clothing 152 Geary St.
Map 5 B4. Map 11 B2. 489 Castro St. Map 5 C5.
Tel 399-9867. Tel 495-7234. Map 10 D3. Tel 986-0138.
Tel 575-3560.
Jeremy’s Union Street
MAC
2961 College Ave,
387 Grove St. Fillmore
Berkeley. Mimi’s on Union
Map 4 F5.
Tel (510) 849-0701. Joie 2133 Union St.
Tel 863-3011. Map 4 D3.
Skechers USA 2116 Fillmore St.
Sunhee Moon Tel 923-0454.
2600 Mission St. Map 4 D4.
3167 16th St. Map 10 F3. Tel 400-0367.
Map 10 E2. Tel 401-6211.
Tel 355-1800. Haight Ashbury
Sports
Upper Playground Basement Piedmont Boutique
220 Fillmore St. 1590 Bryant St. 1452 Haight St.
Map 10 E1. Map 11 A3. Map 9 C1.
Tel 861-1960. Tel 575-3000. Tel 864-8075.
Men’s Clothes comfort are at Ria’s, including adventuring whims. REI

For men’s designer brands, Clarks, Birkenstock, Timberland, bargain prices on the first
sportswear, shoes, and Sebago, and Rockport. Saturday of the month and
accessories with a European Nike Town is a megastore seasonal sales are a good
influence try Rolo. Brooks for sneakers, and DSW Shoe bet for skiing, snowboarding,
Brothers was the first retailer of Warehouse offers an enormous cycling, paddling, and
ready-made clothes for men in range of discounted shoes. comfortable travelwear.
the United States. The company Shoe Biz II, one of two The North Face started in
is now known for its smart suits Shoe Biz stores on Haight North Beach in 1966 and
and button-down shirts. Street, is easy to spot, with its provides outerwear designed
Rugged and fashionable dinosaur mascot figure for sub-freezing temperatures.
outdoor clothing is available outside. The music and Patagonia’s mountain-climbing
from Eddie Bauer. Gap relaxing chairs in the store are roots developed organic
and Old Navy combine casual an easy way to slide in and cotton, and moisture- and heat-
hipness with affordable prices. out of a large sneaker selection. resistant clothing for activities
Men requiring larger sizes can Shoe Biz I has fashion-aware, ranging from climbing, surfing,
buy travelwear and sweaters, value-priced everyday shoes. running, and mountain biking
and be fitted for both formal Merrell shoes are reliably stylish to yoga.
and business suits, at Rochester and comfortable.
Big and Tall. Body is a mecca Foot Worship stocks women’s
for form-fitting T-shirts, tops, sizes from 5–14, personally Sportswear
underwear, shoes, and more. assisting a clientele that enjoys Devoted baseball fans shop for
a precarious stiletto heel. logo caps to pants at SF Giants
Brooks Shoes For Kids has a Dugout stores. A wide display
Women’s Clothes huge variety in footwear for kids, of authorized NFL and NBA
Many of the world’s famous along with accessories and toys. team sweatshirts and
names in fashion are in San sweatpants are available at the
Francisco, including Chanel, NFL College Shop at PIER 39.
Gucci, and Louis Vuitton. Lingerie San Francisco 49er jerseys and
Prada is famous for its extra- San Francisco’s playful side varsity jackets are popular buys
fine merino wool and cashmere gets indulged, too. Alla Prima at Champs Sports. A more
clothes. Banana Republic and Fine Lingerie fits the finest complete range of team
Marciano provide stylish, European brand-name merchandise is available at the
wearable clothes. underwear, silky gowns, and 49ers Team Store, which has
Hip, cute, and comfortable camisoles. Victoria’s Secret T-shirts, hats, tailgating gear,
workout attire can be found at has San Francisco outposts, and much more.
trendy Lululemon. Ann Taylor including Union Square. The Adidas Store has a great
has well-made suits, blouses, America’s first topless dancer variety of classic shoes, sporty
evening dresses, and sweaters. designs and sells at her store, apparel, and genuine athletic
Bebe stocks contemporary Carol Doda’s Champagne & wear for men and women.
clothing for the chic and slim. Lace Lingerie. Specialty sportswear and gear
Lane Bryant offers stylish and shops include Golfsmith, for
flattering designs in sizes 12–26. both golf and tennis, and
Urban Outfitters has chic Leather Clothing Athleta, which offers all types
secondhand and new clothes, In San Francisco, leatherwear of exercise clothes for women.
and Anthropologie has stylish is an antidote to fog effects as For name-embossed San
vintage-inspired looks that well as a lifestyle declaration. Francisco T-shirts, hoodies,
include denim and dresses. Fog City Leather custom-makes or sleepwear, Only in San
alligator jackets and purveys Francisco at Fisherman’s
head-to-pants leather clothing. Wharf has one of the widest
Children’s Clothes A local institution for more selections available.
Colorful collections of cotton than 80 years, Golden Bear
attire, as well as accessories for Sportswear uses the highest-
kids can be found at the local quality leather for its handmade Vintage Clothing
favourite, Small Frys. Gap Kids jackets in a variety of modern Buffalo Exchange and
and Baby Gap are good on and classic styles. Crossroads Trading offer
selection, size, and color. secondhand clothing with
something of a history.
Outdoor Outfitters Wasteland in the Haight
Shoes There is a lot of accessible Ashbury District is known for its
Top-quality footwear is available outdoor space around the city vintage clothes and, in the same
at Kate Spade, which delivers and Northern California, with district, Static offers a wide
classic yet inspired shoes, bags, active adult clothing, gear, and range of carefully selected high-
and accessories. Best names in equipment stores to provide for end vintage items.
DIRECTORY
Men’s Clothes Louis Vuitton Ria’s Athleta
233 Geary St. 301 Grant Ave. 2226 Fillmore St.
Body Map 5 C5. Map 5 C4. Map 4 D4. Tel 345-8501.
450 Castro St. Map 10 D3. Tel 391-6200. Tel 834-1420. Champs Sports
Tel 575-3562. Westfield Centre, Level LC.
Lululemon Shoe Biz I
Brooks Brothers 327 Grant Ave. 1420 Haight St. Map 5 C5.
240 Post St. Map 5 C4. Map 5 C4. Map 9 C1. Tel 975-0883.
Tel 402-0476. Tel 402-0914. Tel 861-0313. Golfsmith
Marciano Shoe Biz II 735 Market St. Map 5 C5.
Eddie Bauer
Westfield Centre, 1553 Haight St. Tel 974-6979.
Westfield Centre, Level 3.
Map 5 C5. Level 3. Map 9 C1. NFL College Shop
Map 5 C5. Tel 861-3933. PIER 39. Map 5 B1.
Tel 343-0146.
Tel 543-4636. Tel 397-2027.
Gap Lingerie
Prada Only in San Francisco
2169 Chestnut St.
201 Post St. Alla Prima Fine PIER 39 at Jefferson St.
Map 4 D2. Map 5 C5. Lingerie Map 5 B1. Tel 397-0143.
Tel 929-1744. Tel 848-1900. 1420 Grant Ave.
SF Giants Dugout
890 Market St. Map 5 C2.
Urban Outfitters AT&T Park. Map 11 C1.
Map 5 C5. Tel 397-4077.
80 Powell St. Tel 947-3419.
Tel 788-5909. Map 5 B5. Carol Doda’s
Old Navy Tel 989-1515. Champagne & Vintage Clothing
801 Market St. Map 5 C5. Lace Lingerie
Children’s Clothes 1850 Union St.
Buffalo Exchange
Tel 344-0375. 1555 Haight St. Map 9 C1.
Map 4 E2.
Rochester Big Gap Kids/Baby Gap Tel 776-6900.
Tel 431-7733.
and Tall 3491 California St. 1210 Valencia St.
Map 3 B4. Victoria’s Secret Map 10 F4.
1202 El Camino Real, San
Tel 386-7517. 335 Powell St. Tel 647-8332.
Bruno Tel (650) 757-1366. Map 5 B5.
Small Frys Tel 433-9671. Crossroads Trading
Rolo 4066 24th St. 1901 Fillmore.
2351 Market St. Map 10 D4.
Map 10 D2.
Leather Clothing Map 4 D4. Tel 775-8885.
Tel 648-3954. 2123 Market St.
Tel 431-4545. Fog City Leather Map 10 E2. Tel 552-8740.
Shoes 2060 Union St. Map 4 D2.
Women’s Clothes Tel 567-1996. Static
Brooks Shoes 1764 Haight St.
Ann Taylor For Kids Golden Bear Map 9 B1.
3 Embarcadero Center. 3307 Sacramento St Sportswear Tel 422-0046.
Map 6 D3. Map 3 C4 Tel 440-7599 200 Potrero Ave.
Map 11 A3. Tel 863-6171. Wasteland
Tel 989-5355. DSW Shoe 1660 Haight St.
Anthropologie Warehouse Outdoor Map 9 B1. Tel 863-3150.
880 Market St. Map 5 C5. 400 Post St. Outfitters
Map 5 B5.
Tel 434-2210.
Tel 956-3453. North Face
Banana Republic 180 Post St. Map 5 C4.
Foot Worship
256 Grant Ave. Map 5 C4. Tel 433-3223.
1214 Sutter St.
Tel 788-3087. Map 5 A5. Patagonia
Bebe Tel 921-3668. 770 North Point St.
Westfield Centre, Level 2. Map 5 A2. Tel 771-2050.
Kate Spade
Map 5 C5. Tel 543-2323. 865 Market St. REI
Map 5 C5. 840 Brannan St.
Chanel
Tel 222-9638. Map 11 B2. Tel 934-1938.
156 Geary St. Map 5 C4.
Tel 981-1550. Merrell Sportswear
285 Geary St.
Gucci Map 5 B5. 49ers Team Store
240 Stockton St. Tel 834-9605. 865 Market St
Map 5 C5. Tel 392-2808. Tel 666-2296
Nike Town
Lane Bryant 278 Post St. Adidas Store
1150 El Camino Real #297 Map 5 C4. Westfield Centre, Level 1.
Tel (650) 238 5442. Tel 392-6453. Map 5 C5. Tel 975-0934.
Books, Music, Art, and Antiques

Hundreds of shops cater to the many writers, artists, and drawings, sculpture, and
collectors living in and visiting San Francisco. Residents decorate photography. SF Camerawork
their houses with items from local art and antiques galleries. sells limited-edition prints by
Visitors who love shopping for fine and unusual objects – from renowned photographic artists,
while The Shooting Gallery
that rare one-of-a-kind piece to distinctive contemporary ethnic located in the Tenderloin shows
arts – are sure to find a treasure in one of San Francisco’s shops. edgy, interesting art pieces. Art
Haus Gallery is a top boutique
gallery with museum-quality
General Interest Obscure sounds are available at contemporary fine art. New
Bookstores Recycled Records on Haight works by American artists are
The artists of the Beat Street, where new and used hung at Gallery Paule Anglim,
Generation once gathered to recordings are bought, sold, while realism is the theme at
talk about America’s emerging and traded as eagerly as stocks the John Pence Gallery.
1960s social revolution at the in the Financial District. For affordable art by local Bay
City Lights Bookstore (see p88), Established in 1970, Aquarius Area artists, visit Hang Art
a famous San Francisco Records is the oldest gallery. Vista Point Studios
institution. It stays open till late, independent record store in Gallery shows amazing photos
making it a favorite hangout for San Francisco, carrying a range of the Bay Area and beyond.
students. Book Bay Bookstore of genres, from psychedelic
at the Fort Mason Center is a and indie rock to reggae and
great place to relax and peruse bluegrass. Amoeba Music has Ethnic and American
the books. Green Apple Books the largest selection of CDs and Folk Art
has both new and used books, tapes in the country. It has Good collections of ethnic art
and is open until 10:30pm, or 500,000 titles, both new and are at several galleries. Folk Art
11:30pm on Fridays and secondhand, including jazz, International, Xanadu, &
Saturdays. Folio Books is a international blues, and rock Boretti in the renovated Frank
neighborhood bookstore music. A music collector’s Lloyd Building has masks,
situated in the heart of Noe paradise, this is the place to textiles, sculptures, and jewelry.
Valley that also sells new and go if you are looking for hard- Find beautiful handmade
used books, while The to-find music at low prices. African masks, jewelry, and
Booksmith, located in Haight textiles at African Outlet.
Ashbury, is notable for its stock Pottery and masks from Japan
of foreign and political Sheet Music are hard to resist at Ma-Shi’-Ko
periodicals. The Alexander For all your musical needs, pay Folk Craft. Traditional and
Book Company located in the a visit to Sunset Music contemporary works by local
downtown SoMa district has Company, a one-stop shop artists can be found at Galeria
good selections of children’s selling sheet music, music de la Raza.
and general interest books. books, instruments, and music
accessories. They also offer
services such as lessons, International Antiques
Specialty Bookstores rehearsal room rental, and San Francisco’s Barbary Coast
If science fiction, mystery, and instrument hire. All types of area (see pp28–9) has been
horror are what excites you, music and books of collections transformed into a shopping
head over to Borderland can be found at the Union district for antiques, and is now
Books for the most extensive Music Company. called Jackson Square (see
selection of titles in these p112). More antiques can be
genres. If your interests include found at the vast San Francisco
the environment, politics, and Art Galleries Antique and Design Mall.
sustainability, The Green New enthusiasts as well as Aria Antiques offers true finds
Arcade is the place to visit. serious art lovers will find in its eclectic shop and Lang
Omnivore Books is a food something to their liking in the Antiques has all kinds of items
lover’s dream, filled with a wide hundreds of galleries. The John from the Victorian, Art Nouveau,
range of cookbooks and other Berggruen Gallery (see p40) has Art Deco, and Edwardian
types of food-inspired books. the biggest collection in San periods. JRM International
Francisco of works by both sells a unique assortment of fine
emerging and well-established art and antiques from world
New and Used Music artists. The Fraenkel Gallery is cultures. All sorts of antique
Streetlight Records offers a known for its collection of 19th- books, prints, and maps can
varied selection of new and and 20th-century photography. be seen at Prints Old & Rare –
used music as well as bargain The Haines Gallery, in the same although you will need to
DVDs, CDs, and video games. building, stocks paintings, make an appointment.
DIRECTORY
General Interest New and Hang Art International
Bookstores Used Music 567 Sutter St, Antiques
2nd Floor.
Alexander Book Amoeba Music Map 3 C4. Aria Antiques
Company 1855 Haight St. Tel 434-4264. 1522 Grant Ave.
50 Second St. Map 9 B1.
Map 6 D4. John Berggruen Map 5 C2.
Tel 831-1200.
Tel 495-2992. Gallery Tel 433-0219.
∑ alexanderbook. Aquarius Records 228 Grant Ave.
1055 Valencia St. Map 5 C4. Jackson Square
com
Map 10 F3. Tel 781-4629. Art & Antique Dealers
Book Bay
Tel 647-2272. John Pence Association
Bookstore
Room 165, Building C, Recycled Records Gallery 445 Jackson St
750 Post St. (at Jackson Square).
Fort Mason Center. 1377 Haight St.
Map 5 B5.
Map 4 D1. Map 9 C1. Map 5 C3.
Tel 441-1138.
Tel 771-1011. Tel 626-4075. Tel 398-8115.
∑ friendssfpl.org SF Camerawork
Streetlight Records 1011 Market St. JRM International
The Booksmith 980 South Bascom Ave, Map 11 A1. 2015 12th St.
1644 Haight St. San Jose. Tel 487-1011. Map 11 B3.
Map 9 B1.
Tel 330-7776.
Tel 863-8688. The Shooting Tel 864-8118.
∑ booksmith.com Sheet Music Gallery
Lang Antiques
886 Geary St.
City Lights Bookstore 323 Sutter St.
Sunset Music Map 5 A5.
261 Columbus Ave.
Company Tel 931-8035. Map 5 C4.
Map 5 C3.
2311 Irving St. Vista Point Tel 982-2213.
Tel 362-8193.
∑ citylights.com
Map 8 E3. Studios Gallery
Prints Old & Rare
Tel 731-1725. 405 Florida St.
Folio Books 580 Mount Crespi
Map 11 A3.
3957 24th St. Union Music
Tel 215-9073. Drive, Pacifica,
Map 10 E4. Company
CA 94044.
Tel 821-3477. 1710B Market St. Ethnic and Tel (650) 355-6325.
∑ foliosf.com Map 10 E1. American Folk Art
Tel 775-6043. San Francisco
Green Apple Books African Outlet
506 Clement St. Antique and
Art Galleries 524 Octavia St.
Map 3 A5. Map 4 E5. Design Mall
Tel 387-2272. Art Haus Gallery Tel 864-3576. 538 Castro St.
∑ greenapplebooks. 411 Brannan St.
Folk Art Map 10 D3.
com Map 11 C1.
International, Tel 626-1283.
Tel 977-0223.
Specialty Xanadu, & Boretti
Bookstores Fraenkel Gallery Frank Lloyd Wright Bldg,
49 Geary St. 140 Maiden Lane.
Borderland Books Map 5 B5.
Map 5 C5.
866 Valencia St. Tel 392-9999.
Tel 981-2661.
Map 10 F3.
Galeria de la Raza
Tel 824-8203. Gallery Paule Anglim
Studio 24,
14 Geary St.
The Green Arcade 2857 24th St.
Map 10 F4.
Map 10 F1. Tel 433-2710. Tel 826-8009.
Tel 431-6800. Haines Gallery Ma-Shi’-Ko
Omnivore Books 49 Geary St, Folk Craft
3885A Cesar Chavez St. 5th Floor. 1581 Webster St,
Map 10 E4. Map 5 C5. Japan Center.
Tel 282-4712. Tel 397-8114. Map 4 E4. Tel 346-0748.
Food and Household Goods from 9am to 2pm. Chinatown’s

produce stores have the feel of
san Francisco’s “foodies” are a sophisticated breed, and they an exotic farmers’ market and
thrive on the city’s reputation for fine food. When not dining are open every day. All kinds
out, they cook at home from well-stocked pantries in their of things are sold at the flea
ultra-equipped kitchens. Cravings for good wine, gourmet markets. The one in Berkeley is
within easy reach. Be prepared
groceries, and for the items that make cooking into an art to barter and to pay in cash.
form can easily be satisfied here. For the home, there are There may also be a nominal
dozens of stores carrying the latest household goods, entrance fee.
computers, and photographic and electronic equipment.
Household Goods
Gourmet Groceries the best bread in the city. More Gourmet cooks dream of
From abalone to zucchini Italian specialties come from Williams-Sonoma’s many
(courgettes), and from fresh Il Fornaio Bakery, a popular kitchen gadgets and quality
Californian produce to offshoot from their restaurant cookware. From practical pots
imported specialty foods, on Battery Street. Head to and pans to beautiful serving
gourmet grocers such as Fillmore Bake Shop for plates, Crate & Barrel sells
Whole Foods carry a variety of heavenly pastries, while the moderately priced items for
items. Williams-Sonoma has gourmet cupcakes made fresh your kitchen and patio.
jams, mustards, and much throughout the day from Chinese cooking gear is the
more for gifts or as a special Kara’s are also delicious. specialty of the house at
treat. David’s is known for its San Franciscans are coffee The Wok Shop. For bed, bath,
lox (smoked salmon), bagels, connoisseurs and there are and table linens and general
and New York cheesecake. many specialty shops. Caffè household goods, visit Bed,
For a quick takeout lunch or Trieste sells custom-roasted Bath & Beyond. Sue Fisher
a choice of beautifully and blended coffees and a King sells elegant, fashionable
packaged foods, try one of the variety of brewing equipment. items for the home and bath.
department store food sections Caffè Roma Coffee Roasting For a kaleidoscopic range of
such as Macy’s Cellar. Most Company and the Graffeo fabrics and accessories, from
large-chain grocery stores have Coffee Roasting Company silks, woolens, and cottons,
good international sections. both sell excellent beans. to buttons, ribbons and
In addition to fresh takeout The locals are also loyal to laces, and even upholstery
items, Italian delicatessens stock Peet’s Coffee & Tea and Blue materials, look no farther than
olive oil, polenta, and pasta from Bottle Coffee. Britex Fabrics.
Italy. Molinari Delicatessen is Chocoholics usually frequent
famous for its ravioli and See’s Candies, Cocoa Bella
tortellini, ready to throw in the Chocolates, and San Francisco’s Computers, Electronics,
saucepan. Lucca Ravioli has a own Ghirardelli’s. Ice cream is and Photographic
friendly staff, who makes their good from Ben & Jerry’s and Equipment
pasta on the premises. Pasta Hot Cookie. Head for Bi-Rite One of the best places to head
Gina, located in lovely Noe Market for locally grown to for computers is Central
Valley, sells pasta, prepared products and to Cheese Plus Computers. For software and
pesto, and other sauces with for a huge selection of cheeses. for anything else electronic,
ample meatballs. The staff at the California pay a visit to Best Buy. It’s
It is worth going to the two Wine Merchant makes good “one-stop shopping for the
Chinese quarters – Chinatown recommendations and are very nerd population.”
(see pp96–102) in the city center knowledgeable about their For new and secondhand
and Clement Street (see p63) – affordable wines. camera gear, repairs, and film,
for Asian food products and go to Adolph Gasser. Some
produce. At Casa Lucas Market of the discount camera shops
you will find Spanish and Latin Farmers’ Markets and along Market Street have
American specialties. Flea Markets shady reputations, so it is
Locally grown produce arrives advisable to check with the
by the truckload at farmers’ Visitor Information Center
Specialty Food and markets in the center of the (see p119) for the best and
Wine Shops city. Stalls are erected for the most reputable places to
A baguette of fresh sourdough day, and farmers sell directly shop. If you just need film or
bread from Boudin Bakery to the public. The Heart of other photographic supplies,
is an addiction with locals the City is open from 7am to Camera Zone and Art Gallery,
and a tradition with visitors. 5:30pm on Wednesdays and in Fisherman’s Wharf, offers
La Boulange brings Paris to until 5pm on Sundays. The very low prices along with
San Francisco, with some of Ferry Plaza on Saturdays is good advice.
DIRECTORY
Gourmet La Boulange Peet’s Coffee & Tea The Wok Shop
Groceries 2325 Pine St. 2257 Market St. 718 Grant Ave.
Map 4 D4. Map 10 D2. Map 5 C4.
Casa Lucas Market
Tel 440-0356. Tel 626-6416. Tel 989-3797.
2934 24th St.
Map 9 C3. Caffè Roma Coffee One of several branches. Computers,
Tel 826-4334.
Roasting Company See’s Candies Electronics, and
David’s 526 Columbus Ave. 3 Embarcadero Center. Photographic
474 Geary St. Map 5 B2.
Map 6 D3.
Equipment
Map 5 A5. Tel 276-5950. Tel 296-7942.
Tel 391-1622. Adolph Gasser, Inc
Lucca Ravioli
Caffè Trieste One of several branches. 181 Second St.
1100 Valencia St.
601 Vallejo St. Map 6 D5.
Map 10 F3.
Tel 647-5581. Map 5 C3. Tel 982-2605. Farmers’ Markets Tel 495-3852.
and Flea Markets Best Buy
Macy’s Cellar California Wine
170 O’Farrell St. Merchant 1717 Harrison St.
Berkeley Flea Market
Map 5 C1. 2113 Chestnut St. Map 11 A3.
1937 Ashby Ave, Berkeley,
Tel 397-3333. Tel 626-9682.
Map 4 D2. CA 94703.
Molinari Delicatessen Tel 567-0646. Tel (510) 644-0744. Camera Zone and
373 Columbus Ave. Art Gallery
Cheese Plus Ferry Plaza Farmers’
Map 5 C3. 1365 Columbus St.
2001 Polk St.
Tel 421-2337. Market Map 5 A1.
Map 5 A3. Tel 921-2001. Tel 359-0947.
Pasta Gina Base of Market at
741 Diamond St. Cocoa Bella the Embarcadero. Central Computers
Map 10 D4. Chocolates Map 6 D3. 837 Howard St.
Tel 282-0738. 2102 Union St. Tel 291-3276 Map 5 C5.
Whole Foods Map 4 D3. ∑ ferrybuildingmarket Tel 495-5888.
1765 California St. Tel 931-6213. place.com
Map 4 F4.
Fillmore Bake Shop Heart of the City
Tel 674-0500.
1890 Fillmore St. Farmers’ Market
Williams-Sonoma Map 4 D4. Tel 923-0711.
340 Post St. United Nations Plaza.
Map 5 C4. Il Fornaio Bakery Map 11 A1.
Tel 362-9450. 1265 Battery St. Tel 558-9455.
∑ williams-sonoma. Map 5 C2.
com Tel 986-0100. Household Goods
One of several branches.
Ghirardelli’s Bed, Bath & Beyond
Specialty Food Ghirardelli Square. 555 9th St.
and Wine Shops Map 4 F1. Map 11 A4.
Ben & Jerry’s Ice Tel 474-2846. Tel 252-0490.
Cream 42 Stockton St.
1480 Haight St.
Britex Fabrics
Map 5 C1.
Map 9 C1. 146 Geary St.
Tel 397-3030.
Tel 626-4143. Map 5 C5.
∑ ben&jerrys.com Graffeo Coffee Tel 392-2910.
Bi-Rite Market Roasting Company
735 Columbus Ave.
Crate & Barrel
3639 18th St.
Map 5 B2. 55 Stockton St.
Map 10 E3. Tel 241-9760.
Tel 986-2420. Map 5 C5.
Blue Bottle Coffee Tel 982-5200.
1 Ferry Building. Hot Cookie ∑ crateandbarrel.com
Map 6 D3. 407 Castro St. Map 10 D2.
Tel (510) 653-3394. Tel 621-2350. Sue Fisher King
One of several branches. 3067 Sacramento St.
One of several branches.
Boudin Bakery Map 3 C4.
4 Embarcadero Center. Kara’s Cupcakes
Tel 922-7276.
Map 6 D3. 3249 Scott St.
Tel 362-3330. Map 3 C2. Williams-Sonoma
One of many branches. Tel 563-2253. See Gourmet Groceries.
ENTERTAINMENT IN SAN
FRANCISCO
San Francisco has prided itself on being the offer filmgoers a wide range of choices,
cultural capital of the West Coast since the but theater, except for some independent
city first began to prosper in the 1850s, and productions is not the city’s strongest suit.
here entertainment is generally of high Popular music, especially jazz and blues, is
quality. The performing arts complex of the where San Francisco excels, and you can
Civic Center is the major location for the hear good bands in intimate locales for
best classical music, opera, and ballet. The the price of a drink, or at the street
latest addition to the cultural life here is the fairs and music festivals held during the
excellent Center for the Arts Theater at summer months (see pp50–53). Facilities
Yerba Buena Gardens. International touring are also available around the city for
shows can be seen here. Numerous all kinds of sports, from bicycling to
repertory movie theaters (see pp250–51) golf or sailing.
Information Among these are Key This

Complete listings of what’s Week San Francisco and Where
on and where are given in the San Francisco.
San Francisco Chronicle and
Examiner newspapers (see
p275). The Chronicle’s Sunday Buying Tickets
edition is most useful, with a The main source for tickets to
“Datebook” section (also called concerts, theater, and sports
the “Pink Pages”) that gives events is Ticketmaster. This
details of hundreds of events company has a virtual
taking place each monopoly on ticket sales,
week. Other good running an extensive
sources include charge-by-phone
the free San operation in Tower
Francisco Weekly Record shops all over
(available at Northern California.
newsstands, They ask for a
kiosks, cafés, and “convenience charge” Outdoor chess, popular in Portsmouth
bars). These give of around $7 per Square, Chinatown
both listings and ticket. The only
reviews, especially alternative to specializing in selling hard-to-get
of live music, Ticketmaster is to seats at marked-up prices. All are
films, and buy directly from the listed in the Yellow Pages of the
nightclubs. box offices, though telephone directory. “Scalpers,” or
Visitors many of these are ticket hawkers, can be found
planning further Banner for the Jazz Festival open only just lurking outside most sold-out
in advance will find (see p254) before the start of events, offering seats at
the San Francisco evening extortionate prices. If you are
Book very helpful. This is performances. willing to bargain (and miss the
published twice yearly by Many productions by the San opening), you can sometimes
the San Francisco Visitor Francisco Symphony and ballet get a good deal.
Information Center, and and opera companies are sold
contains listings of both short- out in advance. So if you want
and long-running cultural to see one of these performan- Discount Tickets
events. The book is available ces, advance planning is Discount tickets for selected
free if you go to the Visitor essential. All have subscription theater, dance, and music
Information Center at Hallidie programs through which you events are available from TIX
Plaza. You can also phone can buy tickets for the season, Bay Area, which offers half-price
the bureau’s events line for useful if you are planning to seats from a booth on the east
recorded information. stay in the city for a lengthy side of Union Square. Tickets are
Numerous free magazines for period of time. sold from 11am on the day of
visitors are available, as well There are only a few ticket the performance, and can be
as calendars of events. agencies in San Francisco, mostly purchased with cash or
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N S A N F R A N C I S CO  247
over the city. Most of these open areas set aside for
take place during the day. wheelchair-bound patrons.
The San Francisco Symphony A few of the smaller houses
gives a late summer series of may require you to use special
Sunday concerts at Stern Grove, entrances, or elevators to reach
south of the Sunset District, the upper tiers, but in general
and is occasionally used access is free of obstacles.
for ballets. Many movie theaters also offer
Cobbs Comedy Club, amplifying headphones for
Fisherman’s Wharf, hosts the San the hearing impaired. Contact
Francisco International Comedy the theaters to be sure of their
Competition for four weeks in facilities, and see Practical
August/September. Over 300 Information on page 268.
entertainers join in.
Performers from the San
Francisco Opera sing outdoors
in the Financial District, as part
of the “Brown Bag Operas”
series. In the summer the park
Playing the blues at the Blues Festival is host to the Shakespeare
(see p255) Festival, Comedy Celebration
Day, and the San Francisco
traveler’s checks. There are also Mime Troupe. A series of
some half-price tickets available concerts called “Jewels in the
on weekends for events taking Square” brings live music to
place on the following Sunday Union Square on Wednesdays
and Monday. at 12:30pm and 6pm, and
TIX Bay Area is also a full- Sundays at 2pm, and at Old
service ticket outlet, and will St. Mary’s Cathedral (see p100)
accept credit cards for advance there are sometimes lunch-
sales. It is open Tuesday to time recitals at 12:30pm
Friday 11am to 6pm, Saturday during the week.
10am to 6pm, and Sunday The Presidio Theatre (see p250)
10am to 3pm.
Facilities for the Disabled
DIRECTORY
California is a national leader in
Free Events providing the handicapped Useful Numbers
In addition to San Francisco’s with access to facilities. Most
San Francisco Visitor
many ticket-only events, a theaters and concert halls in
Information Center
number of free concerts and San Francisco are therefore fully
Powell St at Market St,
performances are staged all accessible, and have special
lower level Hallidie Plaza.
Tel 391-2000.
∑ sf.visitor.org
California Welcome Center

PIER 39,
Building B, 2nd Level.
Tel (415) 981-1280.
∑ visitcalifornia.com
Ticket Agencies
Ticketmaster
Charge-by-phone.
Tel (1-800) 745-3000.
∑ ticketmaster.com or
∑ tickets.com
TIX Bay Area

East Side of Union Sq, Powell St
between Geary and Post streets.
Tel 430-1140.
∑ theatrebayarea.org or
∑ tixbayarea.com
AT&T Park, home of the San Francisco Giants (see p260)
San Francisco’s Best: Entertainment

With a huge variety of entertainment
options, San Francisco is one of the most
enjoyable cities in the world. Big names in
every branch of the arts perform here, and
many also make the city their home,
attracted by the creative local community. In
addition to the West Coast’s best opera,
ballet, and symphony orchestra, the city
supports a wide range of jazz and rock music
plus diverse theater and dance companies.
For the sports-minded, there are numerous
Clay Theatre
events to watch or take part in. And finally, For foreign films try the Clay Theatre on
the spectacular parks and recreation areas Fillmore Street, which was built in 1910
allow visitors to design their own outdoor and is one of the city’s oldest theaters
activities, many of them costing nothing. (see p250).
Pacific
Heights and
the Marina
Presidio
Civic Center
Golden Gate Park

and Land’s End
San Francisco Comedy

Celebration Day
This annual festival in Golden Gate
Park offers spectators a chance to see Haight Ashbury
new talent that could, like Whoopi and the Mission
Goldberg, make it big (see p247).
0 kilometers 2
0 miles 1
Fillmore Auditorium
Famous for acts such as Jefferson
Airplane in the 1960s, the
Outdoor Ballet at Stern Grove Auditorium remains a premier
The natural outdoor amphitheater is a tranquil music venue (see p254).
setting for ballet (see p247).
Street Entertainers
on Fisherman’s
Wharf
A lively mix of street
musicians, jugglers,
and various other
impromptu
performers entertain The Saloon
the crowds at Local blues bands perform nightly at this
Fisherman’s Wharf popular North Beach bar. Dating from 1861,
(see p247). the Saloon is an authentic Gold Rush survivor
(see p254).
The Fairmont Hotel

Some of the best live music
can be heard in piano bars at
Fisherman’s big hotels. The Tonga Room
Wharf and at the Fairmont is where Tony
North Beach Bennett made “I Left My
Heart in San Francisco”
famous (see p257).
Chinatown
and Nob Financial
Hill District and
Union Square
The Geary Theater

This landmark building,
home of the renowned
American Conservatory
Theater, has been
extensively renovated
since the 1989 earthquake
(see p251).
Slim’s
War Memorial Opera House One of the classiest of the SoMa
Book tickets in advance for the acclaimed San nightclubs, Slim’s offers a mixture
Francisco Opera Association (see p252). of jazz, rock and blues (see p255).
Film and Theater

San Francisco has an avid filmgoing community, and newly Film Festivals
released blockbusters often get shown at neighborhood Held at the Kabuki complex
theaters. In keeping with its reputation as a center of the arts, for two weeks in May, the San
Francisco International Film
San Francisco really excels at film festivals. In addition to the well-
Festival usually has some
known International and Mill Valley festivals, there are annual commercial hits. Generally,
celebrations of the best of Native American, Asian-American, however, it shows independent
Women’s, and Gay and Lesbian film and video productions. and foreign releases that might
Theater offerings are much less varied and more expensive not otherwise get shown.
than films, and at any one time there may be only a handful of The tickets sell extremely fast,
and you will need to book
productions from which to choose. Mainstream theaters,
three or four days in advance.
which host a range of touring Broadway productions as well The Mill Valley Film Festival,
as those by local companies, are concentrated in the Theater held early in October, is also
District (see p118), along Geary Street just west of Union a mainstay of the circuit, as is
Square. The Fort Mason Center (see pp74–5) is another the increasingly high-profile
theatrical nexus, with a more avant-garde reputation. Lesbian & Gay Film Festival
held each June at the Castro,
Roxie, and the Yerba Buena
First-Run Films gourmet snack bar. Programs Center for the Arts.
For an enjoyable multimedia usually start around noon, with
experience, head to the shows every 2 hours until
Metreon 16, a 15-screen around 10pm. On occasion, Mainstream Theaters
complex plus IMAX. There are there are midnight shows on Many residents of San
shops, restaurants, special weekends. Half-price tickets Francisco show apparent
programs, and other attractions. may be available for at least the disdain for the international
The Sundance Kabuki Japan first showing, although this commercial successes, which
Center (see p130) and the varies greatly from theater to
modern Embarcadero Center theater. The Kabuki offers its
On Location
Cinema, and Presidio Theatre best discounts every day from
are other excellent movie 4pm to 6pm. Many places in and around San
houses for first-run films; the Francisco have played starring
Embarcadero also excels at roles in films:
foreign and indie films. Prices for Foreign Films and
all first-run venues are roughly Art Houses Alcatraz is the famous
the same. Main venues for first-run foreign high-security prison in Bird
Man of Alcatraz and Escape
Other popular venues include films are the Clay Theatre in
from Alcatraz.
the AMC Van Ness 14 and the Pacific Heights and Opera Plaza,
Alta Plaza Park is where Barbra
Century San Francisco Centre. a four-screen complex. Both of Streisand drove a car down the
The latter is located in the West- these are owned and operated steps in What’s Up, Doc?
field San Francisco Centre and by the Landmark chain, which Bodega Bay, on the coast
has luxurious seats and a sells a discount card that gives just north of San Francisco, is
five admissions for a saving of the small town in Hitchcock’s
30 percent. The Birds.
Film Ratings
The Castro Theatre (see p138), Chinatown as tourists don’t
Films in the US are graded San Francisco’s finest older usually see it is the setting for
as follows: theater, shows Hollywood Chan is Missing, The Dead Pool,
G General audiences, all ages classics as well as unusual Dim Sum, and Hammett.
admitted. newer films, with programs Fillmore Auditorium’s final
PG Parental guidance changing daily. The chic Roxie, week, with footage of the
suggested. Some material an independent rep house in Grateful Dead, is the theme
the Mission District, and the of Fillmore.
unsuitable for children.
Mission District featured
PG-13 Parents strongly historic Victoria Theater, also
in the violent cop thriller
cautioned. Some material screen forgotten classics and
The Laughing Policeman.
inappropriate for children unusual new releases. Presidio is where a brutal
under age 13. More obscure but intriguing murder takes place in the
R Restricted. Children under 17 fare is at Cinematheque, crime thriller The Presidio.
need to be accompanied by a which has programs on Sunday Union Square is the scene
parent or adult guardian. nights at the San Francisco for the key sequence of
NC-17 No children under Art Institute, and on Thursday The Conversation.
17 admitted. nights at the Yerba Buena
Center for the Arts.
explains why theater has a company in the city is the Playwrights Festival each
lower profile here than in other American Conservatory August (see p51).
large cities. There are likely to Theater (ACT), whose longtime The Mission District boasts
be at least a couple of major home, the landmark Geary the satirical Theater
shows, however, playing at the Theater, is located near Union Rhinoceros and risk-taking
main Theater District spots; Square. A variety of plays are Theater Artaud (see p253).
three of the largest theaters performed during its October While the Actors Theater of
are the Golden Gate Theater, to May season. San Francisco has moved from
the Curran Theater, and the its North Beach home, the
Orpheum Theater, all part of city’s best-loved production,
the Best of Broadway Alternative Theater the uniquely San Franciscan
performance series. Others With dozens of small theaters revue Beach Blanket Babylon,
include the New Conservatory spread around the city, and still plays at North Beach’s Club
Theatre Center and the many more in the Bay Area, Fugazi (see p89).
Marines Memorial Theatre. San Francisco’s off-Broadway Other companies to look
At the center of the San scene is alive and well, if hard out for are Intersection for
Francisco’s Mission District, to find. Fort Mason is the the Arts, the multimedia-
The Marsh Theater is most obvious center, home oriented Exit Theater,
dedicated to staging new and to the nationally known and the highly regarded
original performing arts shows. Magic Theatre and diverse Berkeley Repertory Theater
The most respected major other groups, as well as the in the East Bay.
DIRECTORY
First-Run Films, Sundance Kabuki Golden Gate Theater Exit Theater
Foreign Films, Map 4 E4. Map 5 B5. Tel 551-2050. 156 Eddy St.
and Art Houses Tel 346-3243. Map 5 B5.
Marines Memorial Tel 673-3847.
AMC Van Ness 14 Victoria Theater Theatre ∑ theexit.org
Map 4 F4. Map 10 F2. Map 5 B4. Tel 771-6900.
Tel 674-4630. Tel 863-7576. ∑ marinesmemorial Fort Mason Center
theatre.com Map 4 E1.
Castro Theatre Yerba Buena Center
Tel 345-7500.
Map 10 D2. for the Arts The Marsh Theater
Tel 621-6350. Map 5 C5. Map 10 F3. Tel 282-3055. Intersection for
Tel 978-2787. ∑ themarsh.org the Arts
Century San Map 10 F2.
Francisco Centre Film Festivals New Conservatory Tel 626-2787.
Map 5 C5. Theatre Center
Lesbian & Gay Film Magic Theatre
Tel 538-8422. Map 10 F1.
Festival Map 4 E1.
Tel 861-8972.
Cinematheque Map 11 A2. Tel 441-8822.
∑ nctcsf.org
Map 11 B3. Tel 703-8655. Theater Artaud
Tel 552-1990. ∑ frameline.org Orpheum Theater Map 11 A3.
Clay Theatre Map 11 A1. Tel 621-4240.
Mill Valley Film
Map 4 D3. Tel 551-2000.
Festival Theater Rhinoceros
∑ orpheum-theater.
Tel 561-9921. 38 Miller Ave, Mill Valley. Map 10 F2.
com
Embarcadero Tel 383-5256. Tel (800) 838-3006.
Center Cinema San Francisco Alternative
Map 6 C3. International Film Theater
Tel 352-0835. Festival
Map 4 D5. Actors Theater of
Metreon 16 San Francisco
Tel 561-5000.
Map 5 C5. Map 5 B4. Tel 345-1287.
∑ sffs.org
Tel (1-888) 262-4386 ∑ actorstheatersf.org
or 369-6201.
Mainstream Berkeley Repertory
Opera Plaza Theaters Theater
Map 4 F5. 2025 Addison St, Berkeley.
Tel 267-4893.
American
Conservatory Theater Tel (510) 647-2900 or
Presidio Theatre (ACT) (510) 647-2949.
Map 3 C2. Map 5 B5. Tel 749-2ACT. Club Fugazi
Tel 776-2388. ∑ act-sf.org
Map 5 B3.
Roxie Curran Theater Tel 421-4222.
Map 10 F2. Map 5 B5. ∑ beachblanket
Tel 863-1087. Tel (855) 305-4876. babylon.com
Opera, Classical Music, and Dance

Since the Gold Rush days of 1849, San Francisco has prided itself innovative Oakland Symphony
on the variety of its cultural institutions, and its ability to attract performs at the Art Deco
world-class performers. Black-tie fundraisers and the Hotel Tax landmark Paramount Theater.
Fund help support the performing arts, and there is great
popular support as well, evidenced by the full houses. The main Contemporary Music
halls, including the War Memorial Opera House and the Louise One of San Francisco’s leading
M. Davies Symphony Hall, are in the Civic Center performing cultural centers, the Yerba
arts complex (see pp128–9). The best times to see a performance Buena Center for the Arts has
are winter and spring, when the opera, symphony, and ballet given a significant boost to
contemporary music. Bay Area
seasons are all in full swing. However, tickets can be hard to
composers and performers,
obtain, so it is sensible to book well in advance. including John Adams and
the internationally acclaimed
Opera the acoustics, a decision was Kronos Quartet, along with
Beginning well before 1932, made to make alterations, and others from all over the world,
when San Francisco built the building work began in 1991. give concerts in the Center’s
first municipally owned opera The hall reopened in 1992. It is theater as well as in the much
house in the US, opera has been now San Francisco’s principal smaller Forum. Contemporary
popular in the city. In recent location for fine classical music composers occasionally hold
years the San Francisco Opera performances, and home to concerts in the Louise M.
has achieved international fame the highly regarded San Davies Symphony Hall.
as one of the world’s finest Francisco Symphony. The other main spot for
attracting such stars as Placido The orchestra performs up to new music in the Bay Area is
Domingo and Dame Kiri Te five concerts a week during its Zellerbach Hall on the UC
Kanawa, and artist David September to June season. Berkeley campus, while the
Hockney to design the sets. All Guest conductors, performers, Cowell Theater at Fort Mason
performances feature English and various touring orchestras also holds events approx
translations of the lyrics, which perform additional special imately twice a month.
are projected as “supertitles” concerts, and in July a One of the more unusual
above the stage. “Symphony Pops” program is musical adventures to be
The main season runs from held at the Louise M. Davies found in San Francisco is
September to December, and Symphony Hall. Next door to Audium. In this dynamic
the opening night is one of the the Opera House, the Herbst “sound sculpture,” the audience
principal social events on the Theatre (closed for renovation sits through the performance
West Coast. Summer special until 2015) hosts recitals by in total darkness, surrounded
events are held in June and July, prominent performers. by hundreds of speakers.
when tickets may be easier In addition to these big events,
to obtain. there are numerous less formal
Ticket prices range from recitals and concerts in the Bay Ballet and Dance
about $10 to $15 (for standing Area. The Philharmonia Baroque Founded in 1933, the San
room, sold on day of perfor Orchestra, a period instrument Francisco Ballet is the oldest
mance) to more than $100. For ensemble, plays at various sites professional ballet company in
advance information, contact around the city, while the historic the US. Under the direction of
the San Francisco Opera Old First Presbyterian Church Helgi Tomasson it has proved
Association. To find out about has a series of chamber music itself to be among the best in the
ticket availability, contact the and individual recitals on Friday world. Starting off with an annual
War Memorial Opera House nights and Sunday afternoons production of Tchaikovsky’s
box office. throughout the year. The Christmas classic The Nutcracker,
Across the bay, the high Florence Gould Theater in the the season runs from February
caliber West Edge Opera Legion of Honor (see pp158–9) is to May. The schedule includes
performs in April and May at the often used for classical small classic works choreographed by
El Cerrito Performing Arts Center. group performances, including Balanchine and others, as well
quartets, and there are also as premières by such leading
demonstrations of classical or artists as Mark Morris.
Classical Music preclassical musical instruments, Performances by local talent
The Louise M. Davies such as the clavichord. take place at the intimate
Symphony Hall, part of the Across the bay, Hertz Hall on Theater Artaud and the ODC
Civic Center performing arts the UC Berkeley campus (see Performance Gallery, both
complex, was inaugurated on pp178–9) attracts rising stars of located in the Mission District.
September 16, 1980. Following the classical world for its winter The Yerba Buena Center for
a great deal of criticism about and spring seasons, while the the Arts is home to the LINES
Contemporary Ballet, while Free Events On Fridays at noon during the

Zellerbach Hall across the Bay In addition to the numerous summer there is “Music in the
attracts the best touring pro ticketed events, free concerts Park” in the redwood grove
ductions, with annual visits by and performances are staged behind the Transamerica
Pilobolus, the Dance Theater of all over the city. Most of these Pyramid (see p113).
Harlem, and Merce Cunningham. are outdoor daytime summer Grace Cathedral is a
events. For example, the San particularly striking setting for
Francisco Symphony Orchestra choral church music, performed
Backstage Tours holds a latesummer series of by the Grace Cathedral Choir of
Scheduled backstage tours Sunday concerts in a natural, men and boys, founded in 1913.
are organized at the Louise M. wooded amphitheater at Stern The choir sings at Evensong on
Davies Symphony Hall and the Grove (see p247). Members Thursdays at 5:15pm, while
War Memorial Opera House. of the San Francisco Opera Choral Eucharist is celebrated
You can tour both buildings Company sing a selection of on Sundays at 11am.
on Mondays, every half hour favorite arias for lunchtime For details of free and other
from 10am to 2pm. Tours of the crowds in the Financial District events, contact the San
Davies Symphony Hall only can on Bush Street as part of the Francisco Visitor Information
be arranged on Wednesdays “Brown Bag Operas” series, and Center (see p266), or call their
and Saturdays, but reservations in Sharon Meadow, Golden 24hour hotline for updates:
must be made a week ahead. Gate Park (see pp145–57), 4153912001. You can also
All tours begin at the Grove during “Opera in the Park.” check the “Datebook” section
Street entrance and offer an Also free are the Tuesday lunch of the Sunday San Francisco
intriguing firsthand look behind time recitals at 12:30 at Old St. Chronicle/Examiner or one of
the scene. Mary’s Cathedral (see p100). the weekly events papers.
DIRECTORY
Opera Louise M. Davies Cowell Theater Theater Artaud
Symphony Hall Box Fort Mason Center 450 Florida St.
San Francisco Opera Office Pier 2. Map 11 A3.
Association 201 Van Ness Ave. Map 4 E1. Tel 6214240.
301 Van Ness Ave. Map 4 F5. Tel 3457575.
Yerba Buena Center
Map 4 F5. Tel 8646000. Kronos Quartet for the Arts
Tel 8643330.
Oakland Symphony 1235 9th Ave. See Contemporary Music.
War Memorial Opera Box Office Map 8 F3. Zellerbach Hall
House Box Office 1440 Broadway, Suite 405, Tel 7313533. See Contemporary Music.
199 Grove St (day). ∑ kronosquartet.org
Oakland. Tel (510) 444
Map 4 E5. 0801. Yerba Buena Center Backstage Tours
301 Van Ness Ave (eve). for the Arts
Old First Presbyterian War Memorial
Map 4 F5. 701 Mission St.
Church Performing Arts
Tel 8643330. Map 5 C5. Tel 9782787.
1751 Sacramento St. Center
∑ sfopera.com ∑ ybca.org
Map 4 F3. 401 Van Ness Ave.
West Edge Opera Tel 7765552. Zellerbach Hall Map 4 E5.
540 Ashbury Ave. UC Berkeley. Tel 6216600.
Philharmonia Tel (510) 6429988.
El Cerrito.
Tel (510) 8411903.
Baroque Orchestra Free Events
Box Office Ballet and Dance
414 Mason St. Map 4 F5. Grace Cathedral
Classical Music LINES Contemporary 1100 California St.
Tel 2521288.
Ballet Map 5 B4.
Florence Gould ∑ philharmonia.org
Yerba Buena Center for Tel 7496300.
Theater
San Francisco the Arts, 700 Howard St. ∑ gracecathedral.org
Legion of Honor,
Symphony Box Office Map 5 C5.
Lincoln Park.
201 Van Ness Ave. Tel 8633040.
Map 1 C5.
Map 4 F5.
Tel 7503600. ODC Performance
Tel 8646000. Gallery
Herbst Theatre 3153 17th St.
401 Van Ness Ave. Contemporary Map 10 E3. Tel 8639834.
Map 4 F5. Music
Tel 6216000. San Francisco Ballet
Audium 301 Van Ness Ave.
Hertz Hall 1616 Bush St. Map 4 F4. Tel 8615600 or
UC Berkeley. Map 4 F4. 8652000 (box office).
Tel (510) 6420212. Tel 7711616. ∑ sfballet.org
Rock, Jazz, Blues, and Country Music

You will find almost every genre of popular music played Jazz
somewhere in San Francisco. It may be Dixieland jazz, In the late 1950s, the heyday
country and western, Delta blues, urban rap, psychedelic of the Beat Generation (see
p34), San Francisco enjoyed
rock, or the latest sounds from West Africa or Eastern one of the liveliest jazz
Europe. Good groups can be found in ordinary neighbor- scenes in the entire country.
hood bars, and there are a number of good small places Nightclubs like the legendary
with only a minimum charge. Blackhawk vied with the
The city’s music scene has a long and varied tradition of nation’s hottest spots for
excellence. It changes swiftly and there is no way to predict performers such as Miles
Davis, John Coltrane, and
what you may find, but whatever it is, it’s bound to be good. Thelonious Monk. Things
have quietened down
Major Arenas Area Music (BAM), which is considerably since then,
Big-name international readily found in record stores but there is still a number of
performers are likely to be and clubs. places in the Bay Area where
found at the large, municipal you can hear excellent
arenas around the Bay Area. Rock Music live jazz.
In San Francisco itself, one of From Metallica and En Vogue For traditional Dixieland in an
the prime places is the small to the more mainstream informal (and free) setting, visit
Nob Hill Masonic Auditorium. contemporary bands such as the amiable Gold Dust Lounge,
Two larger venues, the Cow Counting Crows and Chris Isaak, just off Union Square. If you
Palace and the outdoor San Francisco has a strong, if prefer more modern sounds,
Shoreline Amphitheater, are offbeat, rock music scene. The choose a club such as Yoshi’s
south of the city, while the local bands tend to eschew in Oakland’s Jack London
main stadium-scale shows the trappings of stardom, and Square. Many major jazz and
are held across the bay. most clubs are small, casual blues artists, like B. B. King and
Berkeley’s outdoor Greek places. Bands and performers Pat Metheny, perform here.
Theatre hosts a summer-long come from all over the US to For an elegant evening of
series of concerts by leading give showcase performances jazz, rhythm and blues, or
bands and artists. Concord’s at the radio industry’s Gavin cabaret, head to Feinstein’s
huge Concord Pavilion features Convention every February. at the Hotel Nikko for
such favorites as Bonnie Raitt, Events are generally cool, low- outstanding acts and delicious
Dave Matthews, and Santana. key, and unpretentious, food. For a more downtown
The best medium-scale spot however, for the rest of experience, Club Deluxe offers
in the city is the grand old the year. a wide array of jazz bands as
Warfield, which has dancing Two of the best rock clubs well as DJs and a monthly
downstairs and seating in the to hear live music are Slim’s burlesque show. Comstock
balcony during its year-round, and Bimbo’s 365 Club. Bimbo’s Saloon is not a traditional
mostly rock season. Smaller hosts rock, jazz, country, and jazz club, but on Saturday
clubs are throughout the city, R&B – and attracts a similarly nights, this hip cocktail bar
with the densest concentration diverse crowd. Slim’s, which is on Columbus Avenue
in the South of Market (SoMa) part-owned by musician Boz undergoes a transformation,
area around 11th and Folsom Scaggs, is a bit more upscale, thanks to its long standing
streets, where a handful of rock tending to feature established resident pianist, Jay Sanders,
and jazz clubs are within walking performers in its comfortable, along with his quartet of
distance of one another. Cover 436-seat room. Another fellow musicians.
charges at clubs vary from $5 to popular place is the Fillmore Patrons at the Italian
$20, with the highest prices on Auditorium, which is the American Verdi Club enjoy the
weekends. Some places also legendary birthplace of live music and swing dancing.
impose a one- or two-drink psychedelic rock during the The SFJAZZ institution built
minimum. Tickets for concerts Flower Power 1960s (see p131). the state-of-the-art SFJAZZ
cost from $15 to $25 and are Smaller places to hear Center, which opened in
available at the box office or good rock music include the Hayes Valley in January 2013.
through BASS or Ticketmaster, Bottom of the Hill club in Many jazz fans plan their
for a small fee (see p247). Potrero Hill, the Hotel Utah trips to San Francisco to
For listings and details of Saloon under the I-80 freeway coincide with the world-
events in the city and the Bay south of Market Street, and famous Monterey Jazz
Area as a whole, check the Great American Music Hall. Festival, which is held every
SF Weekly, or other local The Bay Area’s punk rock world September in Monterey (see
newspapers (see p275); or focuses on Berkeley’s all-ages pp188–9), just 2 hours by car
pick up a free copy of Bay 924 Gilman Street club. south of San Francisco.
Blues Folk, Country, and is also mostly folk-oriented,

San Francisco probably has more World Music although many country
blues clubs than anywhere else Although folk music’s mass and western music stars
in the world, except Chicago. appeal has faded since the perform here. Café Du Nord
Every night of the week, live fervent days of the 1960s, has acoustic performers in its
blues is played somewhere in when singers like Joan Baez underground club.
town, from bars like The Saloon and Pete Seeger appeared While down-home country
to The Boom Boom Room, regularly, fans of the genre music fans may have to
which is owned by musician can find live performers playing search hard to find anything
John Lee Hooker. Lou’s Fish in clubs and coffee-houses all that suits their tastes, the
Shack, on Fisherman’s Wharf, around the Bay Area. Berkeley’s Bay Area is rich in “World
has live blues bands on the bill Freight & Salvage Coffeehouse Music,” which covers every-
almost every day, with special hosts country and bluegrass thing from reggae and soca
shows on weekends. The award- bands as well as singer- to Taiko drumming and
winning Biscuits and Blues songwriters, and it is probably klezmer music. The cozy
has local blues spotlights on the prime folk music club in Ashkenaz Music & Dance
weekdays and special shows San Francisco and surrounding Café hosts a wildly diverse
on weekends. area. Starry Plough in Berkeley range of performers.
DIRECTORY
Major Arenas ∑ bimbo365club.com Map 4 F1. Tel 397-1695. The Saloon
1232 Grant Ave.
Concord Pavilion Bottom of the Hill Monterey Jazz
Map 5 C3.
2000 Kirker Pass Rd, 1233 17th St. Festival Tel 989-7666.
Concord. Map 11 C3. Tel 626-4455. 2000 Fairgrounds Rd at
∑ bottomofthehill.com
Tel (925) 676-8742. Casa Verde, Monterey. Folk, Country,
Cow Palace Fillmore Auditorium Tel (831) 373-3366. and World Music
Geneva Ave & Santos St. 1805 Geary Blvd. ∑ montereyjazz
Map 4 D4. Ashkenaz Music &
Tel 404-4100. festival.org Dance Café
Tel 346-3000.
Greek Theatre ∑ thefillmore.com
1317 San Pablo Ave,
SFJAZZ Center
UC Berkeley. Berkeley.
Great American 201 Franklin St. Tel (510) 525-5054.
Tel (510) 642-9988.
∑ thegreektheatre Music Hall Tel 398-5655
859 O’Farrell St. Café Du Nord
berkeley.com Map 4 F5.
2170 Market St.
Map 5 A5. ∑ sfjazz.org
Nob Hill Masonic Map 10 E2.
Tel 885-0750.
Auditorium Verdi Club Tel 431-7578.
1111 California St. Hotel Utah Saloon ∑ cafedunord.com
2424 Mariposa St.
Map 4 F3. 500 4th St.
Map 11 A3. Freight & Salvage
Tel 776-7457. Map 5 C5.
Tel 861-9199. Coffeehouse
∑ masonic Tel 546-6300.
2020 Addison St, Berkeley.
auditorium.com ∑ hotelutah.com
Yoshi’s Tel (510) 644-2020.
Shoreline Slim’s 510 Embarcadero West, Starry Plough
Amphitheater 333 11th St. Jack London Sq, Oakland. 3101 Shattuck Ave,
1 Amphitheater Parkway, Map 10 F1.
Tel (510) 238-9200. Berkeley.
Mountain View. Tel 255-0333.
Tel (510) 841-0188.
∑ slimspresents.com
Tel (650) 967-3000. Blues
Warfield Jazz Biscuits and Blues
982 Market St.
Club Deluxe 401 Mason St.
Map 5 C5. Tel 345-0900.
∑ thewarfieldtheatre. 1511 Haight St. Map 5 B5.
com Map 9 C1. Tel 292-2583.
Tel 552-6949.
Rock Music The Boom Boom
Comstock Saloon
Room
155 Columbus Ave
924 Gilman Street 1601 Fillmore St.
Tel 617-0073
924 Gilman St, Berkeley. Map 10 F2.
Tel (510) 524-8180. Feinstein’s Tel 673-8000.
∑ 924gilman.org 222 Mason St.
Bimbo’s 365 Club
Map 5 B5. Lou’s Fish Shack
Tel 394-1111. 300 Jefferson St.
1025 Columbus Ave.
Map 5 A2. Gold Dust Lounge Map 5 B1.
Tel 474-0365. 165 Jefferson St. Tel 771-5687.
Nightclubs
Like almost everything else in San Francisco, the city’s The Café, which has a massive
nightlife is fairly casual, friendly, and low key. There is little dance floor and three separate
of the fashion consciousness of London, New York, or Paris, bars that draw friendly guys
and flashy discos are few and far between. Many of the trendy and girls, as well as go-go
dancers and drag queens.
clubs are open only one or two nights a week, but cover Gay and lesbian nightclubs
charges and drink prices are generally low. tend to change even more
If you want to sample an aspect of nightlife that is “uniquely quickly than their straight
San Franciscan,” try the stand-up comedy clubs. Although counterparts, so check listings
some of the once-vaunted places have closed, you can still and ads beforehand in local
papers like the Bay Times and
find stand-up done with a special eccentric flair. In addition,
Bay Area Reporter. Gay men in
San Francisco has many comfortable piano bars in luxurious particular can check Betty and
hotels or restaurants, which are perfect for an entertaining, Pansy’s Severe Queer Review.
intimate night out. It is a good idea to rest up after the day
so you can enjoy the city after hours, too.
Piano Bars
The name “piano bar” does not
Where and When one evening. The Cellar is a really do justice to the variety
Names, times, and locations of popular “underground” hot spot of bars and nightclubs
nightclubs change constantly, playing a good mix of sounds presented here. They all have
and even the most popular- from the 1980s and 1990s, plus nightly live music, usually jazz,
places may last no longer than some hip-hop. Ten 15 is another to enjoy just for the price of a
a year. In many ways your best venue where the music is varied drink. Many of the most
bet is to check the SF Weekly, and the atmosphere electric. fabulous clubs in the city are
Bay Times, and other magazines Also in this area is the after- in four-star hotels. A few blocks
and newspapers to see what is hours Cat Club, which stays from the Theater District,
happening. Most of the larger lively until dawn with acid jazz Lush Lounge offers stiff
clubs are located in the and alternative-industrial martinis in a funky setting.
industrial South of Market sounds, as well as a popular The Art Deco-style Top of the
(SoMa) area, and run from 1980s night. Hemlock Tavern is Mark sits high above Nob Hill
around 9pm until 2am. A few another great place for music at the top of the Mark Hopkins
stay open all night, especially enthusiasts, with a free juke-box Hotel. The Four Seasons Bar,
on weekends, but all places and a back room featuring live an elegant hotel piano bar
stop serving alcohol at 2am. music most nights. with cozy fireplaces and leather
Always bring valid ID to prove Devotees of salsa should chairs, offers spectacular views
you are over 21, or you will head straight for Playa SF, with of the Financial District.
not be admitted. the hottest live salsa and dance Other piano bars are found
lessons most nights of the week in the better restaurants, where
from 8pm onward. you can enjoy music before,
Dancing during, or after dinner. Drop
One of San Francisco’s liveliest into Lefty O’Doul’s for good
nightclubs is Ruby Skye on Gay and Lesbian Clubs piano bar music with an
Mason Street, with its flashy Some of San Francisco’s most obvious Irish lilt and a fine
decor, great sound system, popular clubs are primarily, selection of ales, or head for
and fashionably mainstream though rarely exclusively, The Burritt Room, which is
clientele. RnB, hip-hop, and jazz homosexual. These include the renowned for its American food
are played at Nickies Bar in ever-popular EndUp, which is and sleek modern decor. Right
Haight Ashbury; while The open around the clock from off Union Square is Zingari, an
Sound Factory and City Friday night until Monday Italian restaurant that serves up
Nights, both on Harrison, morning for nonstop dancing. live jazz in their Piano Lounge
feature alternative rock and Other gay and lesbian clubs seven nights a week.
modern dance music; take a include El Rio in the Mission The Theater District west of
cab home after club hours in District and 440 Castro. Union Square has lively venues,
this iffy neighborhood. There are also a number of such as Johnny Foley’s Irish
Located in the historic Mission dance clubs on and around House. Talented pianists “duel”
District, Elbo Room has multi- 18th Street in the Castro in this dark basement bar that
level lounges and pool tables in District, such as the Midnight encourages the crowd to sing
case you want a break from the Sun. In the East Bay, the White along. Farther west still, the
dancing. The Mexican Bus is a Horse Inn has been a popular Sheba Piano Lounge is a
real bus that takes you to three bar and dance club since the romantic spot that serves
different salsa dance clubs in early 1960s. Also in the Castro is up live music and delicious
Ethiopian fare seven nights a Comedy Clubs and Richard Stockton. Other
week. The Starlight Room The city’s once-thriving live clubs with stand-up comedy
has nightly live music in a comedy scene spawned the acts and improvisation are
classy setting on the 21st floor famous comedian and movie Marsh’s Mock Cafe-Theater
at the Sir Francis Drake Hotel. actor Robin Williams, among in the Mission and Cobb’s
Just off Market Street, many other talents. While the Comedy Club in North Beach,
Martuni’s offers stiff martinis comedy scene has been cut as well as The Punchline.
and classic singalongs for a back considerably, there is Down Town Comedy Theater
diverse crowd. Last but not usually something happening is an intimate space in Union
least is the Tonga Room in the somewhere in the city every Square where you can see
lower level of the Fairmont night of the week at a bar or great comedy talent.
Hotel (see p215). In this café. Check local newspapers Shows usually start at 8pm,
elaborate Polynesian-style for listings (see p275). with late-night performances at
cocktail bar you can dance Some of the best shows take weekends beginning at around
or just listen to jazz – place at Tommy T’s Comedy 10pm. Most venues cost around
interrupted every half-hour House, with such regular artists $15 and can operate a one- or
by a simulated rainstorm. as Bobby Slayton, Will Durst, two-drink minimum policy.
DIRECTORY
Dancing Ten 15 Four Seasons Bar Zingari
1015 Folsom St. Four Seasons Hotel, 501 Post St.
Cat Club 757 Market St. Map 5 B5. Tel 885-8850.
Map 11 B1.
1190 Folsom St.
Tel 431-1200. Map 5 C5.
Map 11 A2.
Tel 633-3838.
Comedy Clubs
Tel 703-8965.
∑ sfcatclub.com Gay and Lesbian Johnny Foley’s Cobb’s Comedy Club
Clubs Irish House 915 Columbus Ave.
The Cellar Map 5 B2.
685 Sutter St. 243 O’Farrell St.
440 Castro Tel 928-4320.
Map 5 B4. Map 5 B5.
440 Castro St. Down Town
Tel 441-5678. Tel 954-0777.
Map 10 D3. Comedy Theater
City Nights Tel 621-8732. Lefty O’Doul’s 287 Ellis St.
715 Harrison St. 333 Geary St. Map 5 B5.
Map 5 D5. The Café Map 5 B5. Tel 378-4413.
Tel 546-7938. 2369 Market St. Tel 982-8900.
Map 10 D2. Marsh’s Mock
Elbo Room Lush Lounge Cafe-Theater
Tel 834-5840.
647 Valencia St. 1221 Polk St. 1062 Valencia St.
Map 10 F2. El Rio Map 5 A5. Map 10 F3.
Tel 552-7788. 3158 Mission St. Tel 771-2022. Tel 282-3055.
Hemlock Tavern Map 10 F4. ∑ lushloungesf.com
The Punchline
1131 Polk St. Tel 282-3325. Martuni’s 444 Battery St.
Map 5 A5. ∑ elriosf.com Map 6 D3.
4 Valencia St.
Tel 923-0923. Tel 397-7573.
The EndUp Map 10 F1.
The Mexican Bus Tel 241-0205. ∑ punchline
401 6th St. comedyclub.com
Call for bus pick-up.
Tel 546-3747.
Map 11 B1. Sheba Piano
Tommy T’s
∑ mexicanbus.net Tel 646-0999. Lounge
Comedy House
1419 Fillmore St.
Nickies Bar Midnight Sun 5104 Hopyard Rd,
Map 4 D5.
466 Haight St. 4067 18th St. Pleasanton.
Tel 440-7414. Tel (925) 227-1800.
Map 10 E1. Tel 255-0300. Map 10 D3.
The Starlight Room ∑ tommyts.com
Playa SF Tel 861-4186.
450 Powell St.
2801 Leavenworth St. White Horse Inn Map 5 B5.
Map 4 E1.
6551 Telegraph Ave, Tel 395-8595.
Tel 410-4012.
∑ playasf. com
Oakland.
Tonga Room
Tel (510) 652-3820.
Ruby Skye 950 Mason St.
420 Mason St. Map 5 B4. Tel 772-5278.
Piano Bars
Map 5 B5. Tel 675-1167. Top of the Mark
The Sound Factory The Burritt Room Mark Hopkins
525 Harrison St. 417 Stockton St. InterContinental Hotel,
Map 5 D5. Map 5 C4. 1 Nob Hill.
Tel 339-8686. Tel 400-0561. Map 5 B4. Tel 392-3434.
San Francisco’s Bars

San Francisco has been a drinkers’ town ever since the heady Wine Bars
days of the Gold Rush (see pp26–7), when there was a saloon With the proximity to Northern
for every 50 residents. The bawdy public houses of the mid- California Wine Country, the
Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant Bar,
19th century no longer exist. Instead, today, you can drink
surrounded by artisan cheese-
with a view; grab a local brew; sip an elegant cocktail in a makers, bakers, and other
chic lounge; sample a fine local country vintage wine; gourmet outlets, is a fine spot
mingle with cheering local fans at a sports bar; see satellite- to sample wines.
broadcast matches from Europe; and soak up charm and Champagne and candlelight
an occasional concert at an Irish Bar. Alternatively, you can create the atmosphere of the
Bubble Lounge. Not far from
observe how a notable segment of San Francisco’s
Union Square is Press Club,
population parties at a gay bar. a wine-tasting bar and lounge
serving wines from six of
Rooftop Bars Cocktail Bars Northern California’s most
Those with a head for heights Traditional cocktail bars, with a prestigious wineries. At Hidden
and a craving to be above the chatty bartender holding court Vine, also in Union Square,
hills can visit the bars at the top in front of rows of gleaming patrons can share and taste
of the towers in the city center. bottles, are great fun in San delectable California wines, as
The View Lounge at Marriott Francisco, and there are plenty well as rare offerings from
Marquis offers splendid views of venues to choose from. other regions. In the vibrant
and evening jazz along with Singles often drink at The Marina District, The Scotland
dance music. El Techo de Starlight Room, and those in Yard entices with a great
Lolinda is a festive rooftop bar the need-to-be-seen crowd are selection of small-production
worth visiting in the Mission. The in the Clift Hotel Redwood wines, while Amelie is a quaint
quaint rooftop patio at Jones is Room, with a back-lit bar and place to enjoy fine wines
more low-key and relaxing. upper-tier cocktail prices. A and cheese.
lively bohemian crowd can be
found along Columbus Avenue
Beer Bars at Specs’ Twelve Adler Themed Bars
For a more down-to-earth Museum Cafe, Tosca, and One of the best spots to connect
experience, visit one of the Vesuvio – a one-time beatnik with local passion is Brick &
city’s many beer bars, popular hangout where a popular Beam. Bring your own food or
gathering places for the after- house drink is the Jack Kerouac snacks to the drinks-only Greens
work crowd and weekend (rum, tequila, orange/cranberry Sports Bar. Buckshot
revelers. The best of these juice, and lime). Banquettes, Restaurant, Bar & Gameroom
specialize in beers brewed by potent cocktails, and Rat Pack- offers food and drinks, music, a
West Coast breweries, including era decor mix with a relaxed pool table, old-school video-
San Francisco’s fine Anchor North Beach crowd at Tony games, and skee ball. Irish cheer
Steam and Liberty Ale. Niks. and Guinness are quaffed at The
One of the best, the English Across town in the Mission Irish Bank and The Chieftain.
Mad Dog in the Fog, is situated District, Elixir is a neighborhood
on Haight Street. Magnolia bar with darts, and a wooden
Pub & Brewery, in a 1903 back-bar in a Victorian building Gay Bars
Haight Victorian building, that once had a bootblack on Watering holes popular with
retains its original wooden bar the premises. Also in the Mission, the gay, lesbian, bisexual, and
and name from ex-dancer Nihon Whiskey Lounge has transgendered range from
Magnolia Thunderpussy. the largest single-malt leather-, biker-, latex-, and fetish-
The Thirsty Bear is known for selection on the West Coast, specialized to bars favored
its tapas, while the hip Monk’s plus innovative whiskey and simply because the clientele is
Kettle draws the crowds with champagne cocktails, and a predominantly of one type. The
its craft beers and excellent delectable menu of Japanese Castro, SoMa, and Mission
food pairings. In North Beach, food. Buena Vista Café is the Districts are magnet areas.
The Church Key is a charming 1952 birthplace of Irish coffee The Twin Peaks Tavern has a
dive bar with a huge beer list. and serves 2,000 glasses per relaxed, warm atmosphere;
This popular hangout is easy to day. The wood-paneled The Stud and The EndUp keep
miss – its entrance is marked Rickhouse provides a cozy, drinks flowing with the
simply by a sign featuring a key. intimate space. Other bars, such dancing; the Last Call Bar
At the Pacific Ocean edge of as Café du Nord, in a former offers a cozy, friendly, pub-like
Golden Gate Park, Beach Prohibition speakeasy, and the atmosphere; while Divas is a
Chalet’s brews combine with award-winning Biscuits and well-known spot serving the
fine views. Blues, have live jazz. transgender community.
DIRECTORY
Rooftop Bars Buena Vista Café Wine Bars Gay Bars
2765 Hyde St.
Jones Map 4 F1. Amelie Divas
620 Jones St. 1754 Polk St. 1081 Post St.
Tel 474-5044.
Map 5 B5. Map 4 F3. Map 4 F4.
Tel 496-6858. Café du Nord Tel 292-6916.
Tel 474-3482.
∑ 620-jones.com 2170 Market St.
Bubble Lounge
Map 10 D2. The EndUp
El Techo de Lolinda 714 Montgomery St.
Tel 431-7578. 401 6th St.
2518 Mission St. Map 5 C3.
Tel 434-4204. Map 11 B2.
Map 10 DF. Elixir
Tel 646-0999.
Tel 550-6970. 3200 16th St Ferry Plaza Wine
at Guerrero St. Merchant Bar Last Call Bar
View Lounge
Map 10 E2. One Ferry Building, 3988 18th St.
39th floor,
Tel 552-1633. Shop 23. Map 10 D3.
Marriott Marquis, 780
Map 6 E3. Tel 861-1310.
Mission St. Nihon Whiskey
Tel 391-9400.
Map 5 C5. Lounge The Stud
Tel 442-6003. 1779 Folsom St. Hidden Vine 399 9th St.
∑ sfviewlounge.com Map 10 F2. 408 Merchant St.
Map 11 A2.
Tel 552-4400. Map 5 B5.
Beer Bars Tel 863-6623.
Tel 674-3567.
Redwood Room
Press Club Twin Peaks Tavern
Beach Chalet 495 Geary St
20 Yerba Buena Lane. 401 Castro.
1000 Great Hwy. (at Clift Hotel).
Map 7 A2. Map 5 C5. Map 10 D2.
Map 5 B5.
Tel 386-8439. Tel 744-5000. Tel 864-9470.
Tel 929-2372.
The Church Key The Scotland Yard
Rickhouse
1402 Grant Ave. 3232 Scott St.
246 Kearny St.
Map 5 C3. Map 3 C2.
Map 5 C4.
Tel 986-3511. Tel 872-6853.
Tel 398-2827.
Mad Dog Specs’ Twelve Adler Themed Bars
in the Fog Museum Cafe Brick & Beam at Hyatt
530 Haight St.
12 Williams Pl Fisherman’s Wharf
Map 10 E1.
(across Columbus Ave 555 North Point St.
Tel 626-7279.
from Vesuvio). Map 5 A1.
Magnolia Pub Map 5 C3. Tel 563-1234.
& Brewery Tel 421-4112.
Buckshot Restaurant,
1398 Haight St.
The Starlight Room Bar & Gameroom
Map 9 C1. 3848 Geary Blvd.
450 Powell St.
Tel 864-7468. Map 3 A5.
Map 5 B4.
Monk’s Kettle Tel 395-8595. Tel 831-8838.
3141 16th St. The Chieftain
Tony Niks
Map 10 F2. 198 5th St.
1534 Stockton St.
Tel 865-9523. Map 11 B1.
Map 5 B2.
The Thirsty Bear Tel 615-0916.
Tel 693-0990.
661 Howard St. Greens Sports Bar
Map 6 D5. Tosca
2239 Polk St.
Tel 974-0905. 242 Columbus Ave.
Map 5 A3.
Map 5 C3. Tel 775-4287.
Cocktail Bars Tel 986-9651.
The Irish Bank
Biscuits and Blues Vesuvio 10 Mark Lane
401 Mason St. 255 Columbus Ave. (off Bush St).
Map 5 B5. Map 5 C3. Map 5 B4.
Tel 292-2583. Tel 362-3370. Tel 788-7152.
Sports and Outdoor Activities you out on their yacht, the

only way to sail around the bay
San Franciscans are sports enthusiasts, and there are plenty is to rent a boat from Cass’
of activities to suit every taste. You can choose from a range Marina in Sausalito, where
of public and private health clubs, swimming pools, tennis lessons and piloted charters
are also available. For more
courts, and golf courses. Spectator sports are provided by
limited water trips, rent a kayak
two baseball teams, professional football, basketball, and from the Sea Trek Ocean
hockey, plus numerous Bay Area college games. Outdoor Kayak Center or a rowboat,
activities include cycling, skiing, boat trips, and kayaking. pedal boat, or motorboat from
Whale-watching adventures are also fun to try. Tickets the Stow Lake Boathouse in
are available through Ticketmaster (see p247) or other Golden Gate Park.
ticket agents (see p261).
Golf Courses
Football Giants play their home games Golfers have a wide range
Levi’s Stadium, in Santa Clara, is at the state-of-the art of courses to choose from,
the new home of the San stadium at AT&T Park. The including municipal links
Francisco 49ers and will also American League Oakland in Lincoln Park and Golden
host the NFL Super Bowl in Athletics (the A’s) play at the Gate Park and the beautiful
2016. Oakland Raiders play at O.co Coliseum in Oakland. Presidio Golf Club. Farther
Coliseum. The University of away, some of the world’s
California at Berkeley and most famous courses line the
Stanford University in Palo Alto, Basketball Pacific Ocean in Carmel (see
also have good football teams. The Bay Area’s only NBA pp188–9), where for about
basketball team is the Golden $275–$300 you can test your
State Warriors, who play at the skills and play a round or two
Baseball Oracle Arena. The Golden Bears at the renowned Pebble
Two professional baseball of UC Berkeley also play some Beach Golf Links.
teams play in the Bay Area. The games there, but most of their
National League San Francisco home games actually take
place on campus, as do all of Skiing
Stanford University’s. For skiing, San Franciscans
Whale Watching
head east to the mountains
If you visit San Francisco in of Lake Tahoe (see pp198–9),
winter, don’t miss the chance Ice Hockey where resorts like Heavenly
to experience one of nature’s Home games of the San José and Alpine Meadows provide
greatest shows, the annual Sharks, the Bay Area’s only excellent slopes for all levels of
migration of the California gray professional ice hockey team, ability, amid gorgeous alpine
whale. These huge mammals are played at the SAP Center in vistas. The biggest resort,
are sometimes visible from
central San José, about an Squaw Valley, is just north of
headlands like Point Reyes (see
p162), but the best way to see
hour’s drive south of San the lake and was the site of the
them is to join an ocean-going Francisco. 1960 Winter Olympics. Also
charter trip, tickets for which are within reach of the Bay Area
available from Tickets.com or are Badger Pass, in Yosemite
Gyms and Health Clubs National Park (see pp202–3),
Ticketmaster (see p247).
The most informative trips Large business hotels usually and cross-country oriented
are those offered by the have health club facilities on Kirkwood Ski Resort. Skiing
Oceanic Society Expeditions. the premises. Those that don’t equipment can be rented at all
They sail west to the Farallon usually have an agreement these resorts, and lessons are
Islands, where you may also see with a private club that gives also available.
rare birds and blue whales as short-term membership to
well as migrating gray whales. hotel guests. If neither option
Many whale-watching trips is available, choose from the Swimming
leave from Half Moon Bay, upscale Bay Club, near the Most public swimming
20 miles (32 km) south of Financial District, the well- pools are out in the suburban
San Francisco.
maintained Crunch Fitness, fringes, so for times and fees
Tickets.com or the basic 24-Hour Nautilus contact City of San Francisco
∑ tickets.com Fitness Center. Recreation and Parks Depart-
ment swimming information
Oceanic Society Expeditions line. To swim in the chilly
Fort Mason. Map 4 E1. Boating ocean, head to China Beach,
Tel 256-9604. Unless you are fortunate to the only safe beach in the city.
know someone willing to take Join the “Polar Bear Club” and
swim in the bay. There are also is comparatively quiet, riding Tennis
two swimming clubs at Aquatic along the Embarcadero and There are good tennis courts in
Park (see pp174–5), the Dolphin the Golden Gate Promenade almost all of the city’s public
Club and the South End gives great views of the bay. parks, with the largest group
Rowing Club. If you are in San The Presidio and Golden in Golden Gate Park. All city
Francisco over the New Year, Gate Park area is also ideal courts have been renovated,
watch the New Year’s Day for cycling, and where and many have lights for night
sponsored swim organized most rental shops are, games. They are all operated
by these two clubs for their including Stow Lake Bike by the City of San Francisco
members (see p53). Rentals. In North Beach, Recreation and Parks
Blazing Saddles rents bikes. Department. For details, phone
In the Wine Country their information line. The Bay
Bicycling (see pp192–5), you can Club SF Tennis has 24 indoor
Cycling up and down San take advantage of the tours and outdoor courts and offers
Francisco’s steep hills may organized by Backroads private and group lessons.
not seem like a sensible idea, Bicycle Tours. Many are Guests staying at the famed
but if you plan your route well multi-day tours through Claremont Resort, Spa and
a bike can be the best way to Napa and Sonoma counties Tennis Club (see p165) can have
appreciate the city. Particularly as well as through the lessons and play tennis to their
on weekends, when the traffic Alexander Valley. heart’s content.
DIRECTORY
Tickets Crunch Fitness Presidio Golf Club Bicycling
345 Spear St. 300 Finley Rd. Map 3 A3.
Golden State Map 6 E4. Tel 495-1939. Tel 561-4653. Backroads Bicycle
Warriors ∑ crunch.com Tours
Oracle Arena. One of several branches. Skiing 1516 Fifth St,
Tel (1-888) 479-4667. Berkeley.
24-Hour Nautilus Alpine Meadows Tel (510) 527-1555.
Oakland Athletics Fitness Center ∑ backroads.com
Tahoe City.
Tel (510) 638-0500. 1200 Van Ness St. Tel (530) 583-4232.
Map 4 F4. Blazing Saddles
Oakland Raiders
Tel 776-2200. Badger Pass 1095 Columbus Ave.
Tel (1-800) 724-3377. Map 5 A2.
∑ 24hourfitness.com Yosemite National Park.
San Francisco 49ers One of several branches. Tel (209) 372-8430. Tel 202-8888.
Levi’s Stadium. ∑ blazingsaddles.com
Heavenly Ski Resort One of two branches.
Tel 464-9377. Boating Stateline, NV.
San Francisco Tel (775) 586-7000. Stow Lake
Cass’ Marina
Giants Bike Rentals
1702 Bridgeway, Sausalito. Kirkwood Ski Resort
AT&T Park. Golden Gate Park.
Sea Trek Ocean Kirkwood. Map 8 E2.
Tel 972-2000.
Kayak Center Tel (209) 258-6000. Tel 386-2531.
∑ sfgiants.com
Schoonmaker Point Squaw Valley USA
San José Sharks Marina, Sausalito. Squaw Valley. Tennis
SAP Center. Tel 488-1000. Tel (530) 583-6985. Bay Club SF Tennis
Tel (408) 287-7070.
Stow Lake Boathouse 645 5th St.
Stanford University Golden Gate Park. Swimming Map 11 B1.
Athletics Map 8 E2. Tel 777-9000.
Stanford University. City of San Francisco
Tel 386-2531.
Tel (1-800) STANFORD. Recreation and Parks City of San Francisco
Department Recreation and Parks
Tickets.com Golf Courses
Tel 831-2700. Department
∑ tickets.com Golden Gate Park ∑ parks.sf.gov.org Tel 831-2700.
UC Berkeley (Municipal 9-hole). ∑ parks.sf.gov.org
Dolphin Club
Intercollegiate Map 7 B2. 502 Jefferson St. Claremont Resort,
Athletics Tel 751-8987. Map 4 F1. Spa & Tennis Club
UC Berkeley. Lincoln Park Tel 441-9329. 41 Tunnel Rd,
Tel (1-800) 462-3277. (Municipal 18-hole). ∑ dolphinclub.com Berkeley.
Map 1 C5. Tel (510) 843-3000.
Health Clubs South End
Tel 221-9911. ∑ claremontresort.
Rowing Club
com
Bay Club Pebble Beach 500 Jefferson St.
150 Greenwich St. Golf Links Map 4 F1.
Map 5 C2. Pebble Beach. Tel 776-7372.
Tel 433-2550. Tel (831) 624 3811. ∑ southend.org
CHILDREN’S SAN FRANCISCO

San Francisco is full of attractions that can Gold Rush, the Wild West, and gangsters
satisfy children’s curiosity and never- imprisoned on Alcatraz come alive with a visit
ending quest for adventure and fun. Many to historic sites. Children can see exotic animals
museums tailor their exhibits to spark a up close at the zoo, or enjoy the varied
child’s imagination and occupy busy little attractions of Golden Gate Park. This is a city
hands. Colorful street fairs run from spring for families, and many places offer free or
to fall. And, year-round, the days of the discounted admission for children.
Practical Advice a petting zoo and nature walks.

Families are well provided for in Oceanic Society Expeditions
San Francisco. Family discounts (see p287) sail 25 miles (40 km)
at most hotels allow children into the Pacific to the Farallones
to stay in their parents’ room National Marine Sanctuary. Trips
free of charge, and cots and run all through the year, but
cribs are usually available. gray whales are best seen from
Most hotels will arrange December to April.
babysitters, or licensed
agencies such as the
American Child Care Museums
Services, Inc. will provide Many museums are action-
experienced childcare. packed for children. At the
Parking is costly, but public California Academy of Sciences
transportation is excellent. Plan (see pp152–3) you can ride
your trip, using the map on the out an earthquake in the
inside back cover of this book, Earthquake! Theater. The
to include an exciting Academy is also home to the
combination of buses, Morrison Planetarium and
streetcars, and cable cars; the huge Steinhart
each is an adventure in itself. Aquarium. The
Under-5s travel free on Children’s Creativity
public transportation. There are Crazy Castle at San Francisco Zoo Museum, at the
reduced fares for children aged Rooftop in Yerba
5 to 17, and 1-, 3-, and 7-day Wildlife Buena Gardens,
Muni Passports for all age Animal lovers will find a wealth is an interactive
groups (see p282). of wildlife in the Bay Area. Drive facility where
Use the pay public toilets or take the ferry to Six Flags kids can explore the
(see p267) or rest rooms in Discovery Kingdom in Vallejo media arts. The
large hotels and stores; they and spend the day riding an Rooftop includes an
are usually well kept. elephant or coming nose-to- ice-skating rink and
Medications are available nose with a dolphin. At the a 1906 carousel.
24 hours a day at Walgreens Marine Mammal Center in the The Bay Area
Drugstore (see p271). Marin Headlands (see pp176–7) Discovery Museum
Current activities that are you can get close to rescued is for 2- to 12-year-olds,
recommended for families sea lions. San Francisco Zoo offering activities to
are listed in the quarterly San (see p162) makes a good day or encourage budding
Francisco Book and Arts Monthly half-day trip. Here you can imaginations. The
calendar (see p275). watch the antics of a lowland Exploratorium A welcoming face
gorilla family in Gorilla World (see pp94–5) is a for children
and feed penguin chicks in the state-of-the-art
world’s most successful science museum
breeding colony. The acclaimed for its numerous
Josephine D. Randall interactive exhibits both inside
Junior Museum has and outside. The huge site it
inhabits at Pier 15 has plenty to
keep the family amused for
hours. Don’t miss the Wells Fargo
History Museum (see p112),
where your children can relive
the Gold Rush days, hopping
Meeting a Barbados sheep at San aboard a stagecoach, tapping
Francisco Zoo out a telegraph message, and
CHILDREN’S SAN FRANCISCO  263
discovering gold, as well as DIRECTORY

engaging in interactive media
exhibits. Admission is free, and Babysitters
also at the Maritime Historical American Child Care
Park (see p87), a nautical treasure- Services, Inc.
house of ship models and relics. Tel 285-2300.
Three of the museum’s restored
historic ships can be explored Wildlife
at Hyde Street Pier.
Museums at Fisherman’s Josephine D. Randall
Wharf are designed to amuse, Junior Museum
mystify, horrify, and fascinate 199 Museum Way. Map 10 D2.
Tel 554-9600.
youngsters. Sample the delights
∑ randallmuseum.org
of Ripley’s Believe It Or Not! (see
pp86–7) and Madame Tussaud’s Six Flags Discovery
(see p86). Everyone can enjoy Kingdom
the restored marshland, dunes, Marine World Parkway, Vallejo.
and beach at Crissy Field in Tel (707) 643-ORCA.
the Presidio. Children on the beach at Crissy Field
(see p62) Museums
Outdoor Fun Indoor Fun Bay Area Discovery
Museum
The most exciting way to take Slightly older children can 557 East Fort Baker, Sausalito.
children around town is on the burn off their excess energy Tel 339-3900.
cable cars (see pp284–5). For a at Mission Cliffs, an enormous ∑ badm.org
thrilling descent, ride the last indoor rock-climbing gym.
Children’s Creativity
leg of the Powell–Hyde line to For creative fun, try the
Museum
Aquatic Park (see pp174–5), then Exploratium for interesting,
221 4th St. Map 5 C5.
take the nearby ferry to Alcatraz hands-on exhibits. The Tel 820-3320.
Island (see pp82–5). Children’s Creativity Museum
In Golden Gate Park (see pp144– is a must for kids of all ages. Exploratorium
59) there are riding stables, bike AcroSports is a huge acrobatic Pier 15. Map 5 D2.
trails, boating lakes, a carousel arena that caters to both kids Tel 563-7337.
in the Children’s Playground, and adults. Check out the
and even a herd of bison. In interactive Circus Workshop,
Outdoor Fun
the South Bay, Great America book a private lesson in Great America
is a theme park with 100 acres contortion or tumbling, Tel (408) 988-1776.
(40 ha) of rides and shows. or simply catch a show.
Shopping
Shopping Eating Out Build-A-Bear Workshop
Hillsdale Mall, San Mateo.
At Build-A-Bear shoppers make Fast food is available all over
Tel (650) 577-8713.
and “adopt” their own huggable the city, from takeout dim
bear. For an incredible selection sum in Chinatown to burgers Gamescape
of games, head down to in Union Square. For those who 333 Divisadero St. Map 10 D1.
Gamescape, or watch chocolate prefer a more relaxed meal, Tel 621-4263.
being made at the Ghirardelli most restaurants welcome
Chocolate Manufactory (see children and provide highchairs Indoor Fun
p87), and then buy delicious and special menus for them. AcroSports
candy to eat or to take home California Pizza Kitchen serves 639 Frederick St. Map 9 B2.
as presents and souvenirs. tasty pizzas with unique Tel 665-2276.
toppings,
Mission Cliffs
sandwiches,
2295 Harrison St. Map 11 A4.
and salads.
Tel 550-0515.
Surrounded
by animated Eating Out
wildlife and
other special California Pizza Kitchen
effects, eating 53 3rd St. Map 5 C5.
out at the Tel 278-0443.
Rainforest Rainforest Café
Café is a 145 Jefferson St. Map 5 A1.
wonderful Tel 440-5610.
Riding stables in Golden Gate Park experience.
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 266–275

Getting to San Francisco 276–279
Getting Around San
Francisco 280–289
266  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
San Francisco proclaims itself as “Everybody’s budget. Getting around the city is easy and
Favorite City,” an accolade that is confirmed usually safe, provided you use common
by the many awards heaped on its facilities. sense (p270). The practical information on
All visitors, from the economy-minded to the these pages will help you locate banks
extravagant, will find a wide range of hotels (pp272–3) and medical resources (p281), and
(see pp212–15), restaurants (pp222–9), shops the tips included here address everything
(pp232–45), entertainment options (pp246– from making long-distance phone calls
61), and guided tours (p281) to suit their (p274) to riding a cable car (pp284–5).
Visas and Passports

Holders of a valid European
Union, Australian, or New
Zealand passport who are also
in possession of a return ticket
are not required to have visas
if staying in the US for 90 days
or less. However, they must
register online via the
Electronic System for Travel
Authorization (https://esta.cbp.
dhs.gov). Applications must be
made at least 72 hours before
travel, and there is a charge.
Canadians and returning Rows of brochures at the San Francisco Visitor Information Center
Americans must have a
passport or other accepted (even in cans), illegal drugs, and the monthly Where
form of official ID. cheese, seeds, live plants, and Magazine are available free
Entry requirements are fresh fruit are not allowed. from hotels and stores.
prone to change, so contact Foreign visitors to the US may The “Datebook” section of
your local US embassy for bring in or take out up to $10,000 Sunday’s San Francisco Chronicle
current requirements. in US or foreign currency. lists the major arts and entertain-
ment events in the city. Other
good sources of information are
Customs Information Travel Safety Friday’s “Weekend” section of the
Upon arrival at San Francisco Visitors can get up-to-date travel San Francisco Examiner and the
International Airport (see pp276– safety information from the listings section in the SF Weekly,
7), travelers from outside the US Foreign and Commonwealth which is available free of cost.
should follow the signs that read Office in the UK, the State
“Other than American Passports” Department in the US and the
to immigration counters for Department of Foreign Affairs Admission Charges
passport inspection and and Trade in Australia. Although there are a number of
stamping. Proceed to customs, free entertainment options in
where an officer will check your the city, most attractions charge
passport, take your fingerprints Tourist Information an admission fee of between $5
and a digital picture, and review Maps, guides, listings, and passes and $10. The Conservatory of
the declaration you filled in on for attractions and public Flowers and Japanese Tea
your flight. You will then be transportation Garden, both in
directed either to the exit or to can be found Golden Gate
another officer, who may search at the San Park (see
your luggage. It takes on average Francisco pp145–57),
30–60 minutes to complete Visitor charge $8. A
these formalities. Information trip to Alcatraz
Customs allowances for visitors Center (see CityPASS ticket (see pp84–7),
over the age of 21 entering the p119). The office including the ferry
US are: 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars prides itself on offering ride there and back, costs $38
(not from Cuba), or 3 lb (1.4 kg) personalized service: its efficient ($45 for the night tour), with
of tobacco; no more than 1 liter staff are available for one-on-one discounts for seniors and
(2 pints) of alcohol; and gifts sit-downs to help plan itineraries, children under 11; kids under the
that are worth no more than book tours, and reserve hotel age of 4 go free (see p287).
$100. Meat or meat products rooms. This Week in San Francisco San Francisco is well known for
The Golden Gate Bridge rising majestically through the fog
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  267
its live music scene, which

features both emerging
local bands and established
international artists. Cover
charges and tickets for concerts
run from $5 to $30. In the
summer, free weekly Sunday
concerts are held amid the
redwoods in Stern Grove, but
be sure to arrive early to get a
decent seat.
Major museums, such as the
Museum of Modern Art (see
pp120–23), have entry fees
ranging from $5 to $10, but
discounts are available for senior The Conservatory of Flowers in Golden Gate Park
citizens, children, and students.
Many museums offer reduced Almost all banks have cash show photo ID whenever you
admission on Thursdays, and machines operating round use a credit card.
most large institutions offer free the clock. It is illegal to smoke in all
entrance once a month (phone Some museums are closed workplaces, stores, bars, and
for details), in addition to free on Mondays and/or Tuesdays restaurants, and in the seating
guided tours, demonstrations, and major public holidays. areas at AT&T Park (see p261).
and lectures. Smaller museums Some occasionally stay open However, smoking is allowed
are either free or request in the evening. Closing time for in owneroperated bars where
a donation. bars is 2am; no liquor can be the owners have opted to allow
In Fort Mason (see pp74–5), served in California between the it. Hotels must designate 35
Yerba Buena Gardens (see hours of 2am and 6am. percent of their rooms and 75
pp116–17), and Golden Gate percent of the lobby as non
Park, several museums and smoking zones, though many
venues are grouped together. Etiquette and Smoking have adopted a complete
A CityPASS, available from the Although more formal than nonsmoking policy. Inquire
San Francisco Visitor Information the carefree sandalsandshorts about smoking policies when
Center, offers reduced rates on approach of Southern California, booking a room.
several mustsee sights and Northern California is still fairly
public transportation. laidback. Even at elegant
restaurants in San Francisco, Public Restrooms
it’s not uncommon to see jeans, Public facilities in bus depots
Opening Hours albeit a dark wash, paired with and underground BART stations
Most businesses in San Fran a nice shirt. (see p286) are often frequented
cisco are open on weekdays Bring identification with you by the city’s homeless and drug
from 9am to 5pm. Shops (see everywhere you go: bars and users. The same holds true for
p232) typically stay open until restaurants are required by the large, green, selfcleaning
8pm to allow for afterwork law to ask anyone who looks toilets that line Market Street.
errands. All banks operate under 40 for ID before serving As an alternative, major hotels
from 10am to 3pm Monday them a drink. Moreover, the and department stores have
to Friday; in addition, some United States is not yet on facilities that are free and
banks open as early as 7:30am, the PIN system used by many usually well maintained.
some close at 6pm, and some European establishments,
offer Saturdaymorning hours. so be prepared to sign and
Taxes and Tipping
Sales tax in San Francisco is 8.75
percent, and it is charged on
everything except takeout food.
In restaurants, tip around 15 to
20 percent of the total bill. A
useful trick to figure out the tip
is to double the tax. Allow for an
average tip of 15 percent for taxi
drivers, bar staff, and hair stylists.
Hotel and airport baggage
handlers expect $1 to $1.50 per
bag. Leave hotel chambermaids
SS Balclutha at the Maritime Museum, closed on major public holidays $1 to $2 for each day of your stay.
268  sur vival Guide
Traveling on a Budget
San Francisco is notoriously
expensive, but that doesn’t
mean there aren’t any deals to
be found. In addition to the
many inexpensive hostels, a
local chain of nicely designed
hotels, Joie de Vivre, offers
several bargain-priced options.
Visitors can also sign up for
websites such as Jetsetter,
Groupon, and Living Social,
which send out daily emails
with discounts on everything
from restaurant dinners to spa
Muni bus, adapted for disabled travelers services. The website Goldstar
offers discounts on tickets to
Travelers with Senior Travelers concerts, comedy shows, and
Special Needs Senior travelers might struggle other events.
Most public transportation in a bit with San Francisco’s Visitors with proof of student
the city is equipped for easy ubiquitous hills, but public status receive discounts at many
access. See the Muni Access transportation is extensive and museums and theaters. The
Guide for details. Hotels usually reliable, and there are many most widely accepted form of
have a few accessible rooms, senior-friendly attractions. student ID is an International
and major entertainment Movie tickets, museum entry Student Identity Card (ISIC).
venues have seats adapted for fees, and some sporting events Apply for one at your local
the disabled. Direction signs, are discounted for people aged student center, youth hostel
toilets, and entrances are 65 or older (ID must be shown). organization, or student travel
specially adapted for blind and Transportation is also cheaper association prior to traveling.
disabled visitors, while some ($1 instead of $2.25 for a Working vacations for foreign
movie theaters offer special standard return fare), and many students may be arranged
audio equipment for hearing- restaurants offer senior discounts through STA Travel, which has
impaired patrons. Parking spaces as well. For more information one office in the Bay Area.
reserved for the disabled are on senior travel, contact the
marked by a blue-and-white American Association of
sign and a blue curb. A Retired People (AARP).
wheelchair outline is often
painted on the sidewalk. Parking
and public transportation are Gay and Lesbian
discounted for the disabled. Travelers
San Francisco is arguably the
most gay-friendly city in the The International Student Identity Card,
Traveling with world, and it is completely offering many benefits
Children accepted for same-sex couples
San Francisco is a family-friendly to show affection in public. It What to Take
destination: many hotels offer was one of the first US cities to Despite its location in sunny
“kids stay free” deals, and many legalize gay marriage; state California, San Francisco is not
restaurants have children’s legislation subsequently typically a warm city. Bring
menus. Kids also enjoy discounts revoked that right, but it has clothing appropriate for every
on tickets to sporting events, since been reinstated. It is a season and be prepared to
movies, and museums. Except judicial battle that is likely to dress in layers, especially in the
for cable cars, which charge a continue. The annual Gay Pride summer, when the city is at its
flat rate ($7), children under the Parade at the end of June is one foggiest. There are two main
age of 4 ride the city’s public of the city’s main attractions (see swimming beaches (Ocean
transportation system for free, p51). The Castro is the center of Beach and Baker Beach), and
and those between the ages of 5 gay life in San Francisco, marked many hotels have either indoor
and 17 ride for just $1 (the adult as such by a giant rainbow flag or heated outdoor pools, so
fare is $2.25). San Francisco has at the intersection of Market packing a bathing suit is a
many free parks and playgrounds; and Castro streets. Although all good idea. Comfortable shoes
for a full list, visit the City and of the Bay Area is gay-friendly, are a must: not only is it often
County of San Francisco there are a few hotels that cater more practical to walk to a
website. More useful information specifically for a gay clientele; particular destination, but it is
and ideas are available on the visit www.sfgay.org for a also the most enjoyable option
Travel for Kids website. detailed directory. (see p281).
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  269
San Francisco Time Responsible Tourism also features several eco-friendly

San Francisco is in the Pacific San Francisco and the Bay Area buildings, such as the California
Time Zone. Daylight Saving are on the cutting edge of all Academy of Sciences (see
Time (when clocks are set ahead things green in the US. The area pp152–3).
1 hour) begins on the second boasts a number of eco-lodges To find businesses that
Sunday in March and ends on and hotels, most of which are operate an environmentally
the first Sunday in November. members of the Green Hotels sustainable policy, visit the
San Francisco is 3 hours behind Association. The organic food website of the Bay Area Green
New York, 8 hours behind movement is huge in Northern Business Program.
London, and 18 hours California: a good number of
behind Sydney. restaurants will list which local
farm their ingredients come
from, and there are weekly
Electricity farmers’ markets throughout
Electric current in the US flows the area. One of the best is the
at a standard 110–120 volts AC Ferry Building Market Place,
(alternating current). Visitors where local growers sell
from abroad will need a voltage everything from fresh produce
converter and an adaptor plug. to delicious prepared foods.
Some hotels hand out adaptors Large tracts of open space in
at the front desk, but it is also the city – including the Presidio,
possible to purchase them at Golden Gate Park, Marin
the airport. Special plugs for Headlands, and Muir Woods –
electric shavers carry either have been set aside for Colorful vegetables stall at a farmers’
110- or 220-volt current. preservation, and San Francisco market in San Francisco
DIRECTORY
Foreign US Department of ∑ sfmta.com Jetsetter
Consulates State ∑ jetsetter.com
∑ travel.state.gov Traveling with
Australian Consulate Children Joie de Vivre
General Australia Department ∑ jdvhospitality.com
575 Market St, Suite 1800. of Foreign Affairs and City and County of
Living Social
Map 5 C4. Trade San Francisco
∑ livingsocial.com
∑ dfat.gov.au ∑ sfrecpark.org
Tel 644-3620.
∑ smartraveller.gov.au STA Travel
Travel for Kids Tel (1-800) 781-4040.
British Consulate
∑ travelforkids.com/
General Tourist ∑ statravel.com
Information Funtodo/California/
1 Sansome St, Suite 850.
Map 6 D4.
San_Francisco/ Responsible
Tel 617-1300.
San Francisco Visitor sanfrancisco.htm Tourism
Information Center
Canadian Consulate 900 Market St at Powell Senior Travelers Bay Area Green
General St, Lower Level of Business Program
Hallidie Plaza.
American Association ∑ greenbiz.ca.gov
580 California St, 14th Floor.
Map 5 B5. of Retired People
Map 5 C4. (AARP) California Farmers’
Tel 834-3180. Tel 391-2000. Market Association
∑ sanfrancisco.travel Tel (1-888) 687-2277.
Tel (1-800) 806-3276.
Consulate General ∑ aarp.org
Visit California ∑ cafarmersmkts.com
of Ireland
100 Pine St, 33rd Floor.
Tel (916) 444-4429. Gay and Lesbian Ferry Building
Map 6 D4.
∑ visitcalifornia.com Travelers Market Place
∑ ferrybuilding
Tel 392-4214. Travelers with Gay and Lesbian marketplace.com
New Zealand Special Needs Convention Visitors
Bureau Green Hotels
Consulate General
Mayor’s Office ∑ glcvb.org Association
Tel (650) 342-4443.
on Disability ∑ greenhotels.com
Travel Safety
Tel 554-6789 Traveling on
∑ sfgov.org/mod a Budget
UK Foreign and Muni Access Guide
Commonwealth Goldstar
949 Presidio Ave.
∑ goldstar.com
Office Map 3 C4.
∑ gov.uk/foreign- Tel 923-6142 (weekdays) Groupon
travel-advice or 673-MUNI. ∑ groupon.com
Personal Security and Health (see p272). Never display cash;

money belts concealed under
san Francisco is one of the safest large cities in the us. Police clothing are better than purses
officers patrol tourist areas regularly, and very few visitors are and wallets. If you must carry a
victims of any form of street crime. Community groups in purse, hold it securely under
areas such as the Civic Center, Tenderloin, Western addition, your arm, and keep your wallet
in the inside front pocket of
and Mission district have also taken steps to improve their
your pants or jacket. Carry
locale and image. during the late afternoon and after dark, some cash and credit cards in
however, it is advisable to take a taxi to and from these a concealed secondary wallet.
districts, since tourist sights often border sleazy theaters Be alert in crowds, especially
and vacant buildings. if you follow the guidelines below, in stores, at bus stops, and on
set by the Police department, and use common sense, public transportation. Make
copies of all your travel
your stay should be safe and pleasant. documents and carry
them separately.
Police officers make their rounds In your hotel, keep an eye
The San Francisco Police on foot, in police cars, or in on your luggage while you
Department provides foot, small three-wheeled vehicles. check in and out, and do not
horse, motorcycle, and car Airports, stores, hotels, and the broadcast your name and
patrols day and night. All transit system have their own room number. Do not leave
major events are overseen uniformed and plain-clothes cash or valuables in your room,
by the police, especially at security staff. and keep your luggage locked.
night in the Tenderloin area. Most hotels offer an in-room
Police kiosks are located in safe for valuables, and many
Chinatown, Japantown, Union What to be Aware of also have safety deposit boxes
Square, the Mission District, Mild weather, a progressive at the front desk. Keep an
and at Hallidie Plaza. Traffic population, and extensive inventory of items that you
and parking enforcement social welfare programs draw deposit in the room safe or
many homeless hotel safe. Learn how to
people to San double-lock your hotel room
Francisco. Street door, and use the door viewer
people are mostly before letting anyone in.
not dangerous, but Always verify the identity
some are mentally of room service and repair
unstable or addicted personnel with reception
to drugs, so treat before you let them into your
them with caution. room, especially if you did
Do not advertise the not call for them. Report
fact that you are a any suspicious activity, and
Police car visitor; plan your keep the key with you until
route in your hotel you check out.
room and look at If you have a car, lock it and
maps discreetly. keep the keys with you; always
Walk confidently check the interior before you
even if you do not get in. Park in busy, well-lit
know where you are; areas, and remove all luggage
if you look lost, you and valuables, especially
may be an easy GPS systems.
target for crime.
Be aware of your
surroundings, and In an Emergency
Fire engine if an area appears For emergencies that require
unsafe, leave. If you medical, police, or fire services,
need directions, ask dial 911. The Blue Pages of the
only hotel, shop, or telephone book list hospital
office staff, or police emergency rooms and city
officers, and avoid hospitals. These can be crowded
talking to strangers but are less expensive than
on the street. private hospitals, which are
Do not carry large listed in the Yellow Pages.
amounts of cash Hotels may be able to arrange
or, better still, use for a doctor or dentist to visit
Ambulance traveler’s checks you in your room.
P r a c t i c a l i n f o r m at i o n  271
Hospitals and late or round the clock. If you care, lost or stolen baggage and
Pharmacies take medication, it is a good travel documents, accidental
If you do not have compre- idea to bring a backup death, and trip-cancellation fees.
hensive medical insurance, a prescription with you.
visit to a doctor, hospital, or
clinic can be very expensive. Natural Disasters
Even with medical insurance Lost and Stolen The Bay Area lies on several
you may find that you have Property fault lines, a fact that has led to
to pay for the services in Although the chances of a few devastating earthquakes
advance, then claim retrieving property lost on in the past. According to the
reimbursement from the street are remote, you can US Geological Service (USGS),
your insurance phone the Police a damaging earthquake hits
company. Many Non-Emergency the Bay Area every four years
doctors, dentists, and Line. The Muni on average. Since the 7.8
hospitals accept credit transportation magnitude earthquake of 1906,
cards, but traveler’s system and BART both the area has seen less activity
checks and cash are have Lost-and-Found because stresses on the fault
sometimes the only offices, as do many lines were relieved. However,
form of payment shops and restaurants. according to the USGS, those
allowed for visitors. Note the company stresses are building up again,
For non- Walgreens name, driver name, and there is a 62 percent
emergency medical pharmacy logo color, and number of chance of a magnitude 6.7 or
care, a handful of walk- any taxi you take. If larger quake hitting the area
in clinics in San Francisco you lose an item, you will need by 2032. The good news is that
charge reasonable prices; this information when calling the area is fairly well prepared
these can be found in the the relevant cab company to for earthquakes – by law,
“Personal Services” section report your loss. buildings have to be retrofitted
of the San Francisco Visitor to function well in a tremor.
Information Center website Although earthquakes can
(see p269). There’s even a Travel Insurance be extremely frightening,
clinic at San Francisco Medical care in the US is first- they typically last less than
International Airport. class but costly, making travel one minute. The best course
If you get a prescription from a insurance essential for foreign of action in the event of an
doctor, ask that it be called into a visitors. Travelers should check earthquake is to crouch
pharmacy near your hotel. Some that their coverage includes under a desk or brace
Walgreens drugstores stay open emergency medical and dental yourself in a doorway.
DIRECTORY
Emergency San Francisco Walgreens Dental Services
Services General Hospital 135 Powell St. Map 5 B5.
1001 Potrero Ave. Tel 391-7222. Emergency Dentist
All Emergencies 24/7
Map 11 A3. 498 Castro St. Map 10 D3.
(Police, Fire, and Tel 702-4543.
Tel 206-8000. Tel 861-3136 (24 hours.)
Medical Services) San Francisco Dental
Traveler Medical 3201 Divisadero St.
Tel 911.
Map 3 C2. Society Referral
Group Service
Victims of Crime 490 Post St, Suite 225. Tel 931-6417 (24 hours.)
Tel 928-7337 (24 hours.)
Resource Center Map 5 A5.
Walk-In Clinics
Tel (1-800) 842-8467. Tel 981-1102. Lost and Stolen
∑ 1800victims.org ∑ traveler Concentra Medical Property
medicalgroup.net Center
Hospitals Lost-and-Found
26 California St.
Pharmacies Map 6 D4. Tel 781-7077.
(BART)
Saint Francis ∑ bart.gov/guide/
Memorial Hospital 450 Sutter Pharmacy University of lostandfound
900 Hyde St. 450 Sutter St, 7th Floor. California San Lost-and-Found
Map 5 A4. Map 5 B4. Francisco Clinic (Muni)
Tel 353-6000. Tel 392-4137. (Will 400 Parnassus Ave. Tel 701-2311.
Emergency Services deliver.) Map 9 B2.
Tel 353-7500. Police Non-
Tel 353-6300 (24-hour Saint Francis Medical Emergency Line
emergency care.) Center Wall Medical Group Tel 553-0123.
∑ saintfrancis 901 Hyde St. Map 5 A4. 2001 Union St.
memorial.org Tel 776-4650. (Will deliver.) Map 4 E3. Tel 447-6800.
Banking and Currency

san Francisco’s Financial district (see pp108–23) is the banking
center of the West Coast. The imposing corporate
headquarters of major us banks and foreign branches of
some of the world’s leading financial institutions can be found
in this prestigious area. For the convenience of residents and
visitors alike, hundreds of cash machines (aTMs) throughout
the city allow automatic transactions 24 hours a day.
Wells Fargo cash-dispensing
There are several Travelex machines (ATMs)
Banks and Bureaux
America Currency Exchange
de Change
offices and ATMs located there are plenty of people
Banks in San Francisco are throughout the International nearby, and make sure that
generally open from 9am to terminal at SFO. nobody can see your PIN as
5pm Monday to Friday. Some, you type it in.
however, open as early as Be sure to notify your bank
ATMs
7:30am, close as late as 6pm, and credit card companies that
and are open on Saturday Automated Teller Machines you will be traveling. In some
mornings. Always ask if any (ATMs) can be found in most cases, access to funds can be
special fees apply before bank lobbies or on an outside cut off when banks see what
making your transaction. wall near the bank’s entrance. seem to be suspicious charges.
US-dollar traveler’s checks can US currency, usually in $20 bills,
be cashed at most banks, can be electronically withdrawn
Traveler’s Checks and
provided you have a from your bank or credit card
Credit Cards
government-issued form of account in seconds. ATM
photographic identification. withdrawals may provide a Credit cards and traveler’s
Credit unions will serve only better foreign currency checks are widely accepted in
their members, so look for exchange rate than cash trans- San Francisco, but be prepared
banks that offer services to the actions. Before you travel, ask to show photo ID when using
general public. Bank of America your bank which ATM systems them. Traveler’s checks issued in
and Wells Fargo have your card can access in San US dollars by American Express
headquarters in the city, and Francisco and how much each and Thomas Cook are generally
Chase has a major presence as transaction will cost, as a accepted without a fee by most
well. You will see local branches conversion charge may apply. shops, restaurants, and hotels.
of all three in the Financial Popular systems include Cirrus, Foreign currency traveler’s
District and in shopping areas. Plus, and Star, and they accept checks may be cashed at a
Foreign currency exchange is various US bank cards, in bank or by the cashier at a
available at the main branches addition to MasterCard, VISA, major hotel.
of large banks, at bureaux de and others. Although they are The majority of credit cards
change throughout the likely to be less secure, the small offer merchandise guarantees
Financial District, and at the ATM kiosks at grocery stores, or other benefits. American
area’s international airports (SFO, liquor stores, and on city streets Express, MasterCard, and VISA
Oakland, and San José; see sometimes handle foreign cards are accepted at most
pp276–7). Foreign currency better. However, you may be establishments. In most
exchange offices charge fees charged around $2.50–$3 to instances you’ll be asked to
and commissions, and they are use them. sign a slip; in a very few cases,
generally open on weekdays Be aware that robberies can retailers will print your credit
from 9am to 5pm. One of the occur at ATM machines, so use card number on receipts, so
best-known firms is Travelex. them only in daylight or when be sure to check and black it
out if necessary. Most hotels
ask for a credit card imprint on
check-in. Car rental agencies
put a hold on renters’ cards
equal to a deposit of anywhere
between $100 and $300, and
they penalize patrons without
credit cards by asking for
large cash deposits. Most
hospitals (see p271) will
accept the credit cards
listed above as payment
A large branch of Chase bank in downtown San Francisco for treatment.
Coins DIRECTORY
Units of currency in the US are dollars and
cents. There are 100 cents to a dollar. Coins Banks and Bureaux
come in $1, and 50-, 25-, 10-, 5-, and 1-cent de Change
pieces. Gold-tone $1 coins and state quarters
are also in circulation. Each coin has a Bank of America
popular name: 1-cent pieces are called 1 Powell St. Map 5 C5.
pennies; 5-cent pieces, nickels; 10-cent pieces, Tel (1-800) 432-1000.
25-cent coin (a quarter)
dimes; and 25-cent pieces, quarters.
Chase
Tel 274-3500.
Travelex
San Francisco International
Airport. Tel (650) 821-0934.
10-cent coin 5-cent coin (a nickel) 1-cent coin (a penny) Wells Fargo
(a dime)
Bank Notes (Bills) Tel 396-7392.
American bank notes come in $1, $5, $10,

Traveler’s Checks and
$20, $50, and $100 denominations. They
are all the same color, but each features a Credit Cards
different US President. The $20 and $50 bills American Express
in circulation have extra security features.
Tel (1-866) 901-1234.
Paper bills were first issued in 1862, when
1-dollar coin (a buck) coins were in short supply and the Civil MasterCard
War needed financing. Tel (1-800) 627-8372.
VISA
Tel (1-800) 336-8472.
1-dollar bill ($1)
5-dollar bill ($5)
10-dollar bill ($10)

Communications and Media Reaching the Right

The Bay area is where the american tech boom was born, Number
so it should come as no surprise that most places in san • Long-distance direct-dial
Francisco have wireless internet access; indeed, many hotels calls outside your local area
code, but within the US and
and cafés offer it to customers free of charge. san Francisco Canada: dial 1.
is also a fairly international and cultural city, so it’s relatively • International direct-dial calls:
easy to find foreign publications, films, and television broad dial 011, followed by the
casts. Coinoperated public pay phones are not as common country code (Australia: 61;
as they once were, but they are still available at the airport New Zealand: 64; UK: 44),
then the city or area code
and on some streets in downtown neighborhoods. Note (omitting the first 0), and
that hotels set their own telephone rates, so calls from then the local number.
your room may be more expensive than those made • International calls via the
from a pay phone or cell phone. operator: dial 01, followed
by the country code,
International and Local Public Telephones and the city code (without
Telephone Calls Pay phones in San Francisco are
the first 0), then the
local number.
Within the city limits of San slowly disappearing, but they
Francisco, the standard charge can still be found at the airport, • National directory inquiries:
of 50 cents buys 3 minutes’ time. on major streets, and in some dial 411. There may be
If you talk for longer than that, shopping centers. AT&T operates a charge.
the operator may request most of the pay phones in the • International directory
additional payment. The area city, which have a blue-and- inquiries: dial 00.
code for the city is 415. The white sign with a receiver and • Local operator assistance:
prefixes 650 and 408 serve the the word “phone” or a bell with dial 0.
southern suburbs; 510 is for a circle around it. Charges • International operator
Oakland, Berkeley, and the must be posted by law, as assistance: dial 01.
East Bay; and 707 is for well as toll-free numbers,
• An 800, 866, 877, or 888
Napa and Sonoma. how to make calls
prefix indicates that the call
These and other using other long-
is free. Dial 1 before the 800.
numbers called from distance service carriers,
San Francisco are long- and the phone’s exact • Emergencies: dial 911.
distance. The prefixes 800, location. To complain
866, 877, and 888 indicate about service, call the
toll-free numbers. operator (0). a flat-rate, $25-a-month,
All international calls no-contract-service option
can be dialed direct, with good international rates.
but operators can help Cell Phones You will also need a phone,
if your call is not going Triband or multiband but the company sells a basic
through. Their advice is cell phones from else- one for $20. This is a good
free, but if they connect where in the world option if you are staying in the
your call you will have should work in the US, US longer than a week and
to pay a surcharge. Chinatown but your service plan on making frequent calls.
Long-distance direct-dial phone box provider may have to
calls within the US are unlock international
cheaper at night and roaming. They can also advise Internet and E-mail
weekends. The White Pages on costs of calls. High-speed Internet (often
of the telephone book offer The main US providers are wireless) is available throughout
current rate and long-distance T-Mobile, Verizon, AT&T, and the city, including on many trains
calling information in the Sprint. Except for Sprint, they and in the underwater subway
“Customer Guide” section. all offer prepaid, pay-as-you-go tunnel linking San Francisco to
The times of day when phones with a “starter” SIM card Oakland. Many cafés, such as
discounted rates apply for (with 10–15 minutes’ talk time) Ritual Roasters, offer free Wi-Fi,
calls to foreign countries vary; for $30 and up. Local and although you are expected to
the international operator will national calls are very cheap on purchase something before
be able to advise you. Prepaid these phones, but international using it. Hotels are increasingly
international calling cards, calls are not, so it is wise to buy offering free Wi-Fi as well, either
available from most news- a calling card to use with your in the lobby or in all rooms.
stands and convenience pay-as-you-go phone. Those that charge for access bill
stores, as well as online, Alternatively, look for a plan $10–$15 a day. It is rare to find
offer discounted rates on with international calling an Internet café with computers,
international calls. options. Virgin Mobile offers so take your laptop.
DIRECTORY
Useful Numbers
Directory Inquiries within
the US
Tel 411.
Cell Phones
AT&T
∑ att.com
Sprint
∑ sprint.com
Customers at the popular Café de la Presse
T-Mobile
Postal Services Newspapers, Magazines, ∑ t-mobile.com
Stamps can be purchased at and Websites Verizon

post offices, hotel reception Foreign newspapers and ∑ verizonwireless.com
desks, and vending machines. magazines are for sale at Virgin Mobile
Some ATMs also sell stamps; several shops and newsstands, ∑ virginmobileusa.com
most banks charge a fee for this including Fog City News and
service, but so do most non-US Café de la Presse. The local Internet and E-mail
Postal Service outlets. Check newspaper is the San Francisco
current postal rates at post Chronicle. The SF Weekly offers Ritual Roasters
offices or online, at the US enter tainment reviews and 1026 Valencia St.
Postal Service website. listings. San Francisco Magazine Map 10 F2.
Letters can be mailed in and 7 x 7 are glossy lifestyle Tel 641-1011.
post offices, at your hotel, at magazines covering the ∑ ritualroasters.com
the airport, and in mailboxes cultural happenings in (One of several outlets.)
on the street. Collection times the city.
are printed on the inside of the Useful websites for visitors
Postal Services
mailbox’s pull-down door. include Yelp, which has user- DHL
All domestic mail is first class generated reviews on every- Tel (1-800) 225-5345.
and will arrive within one to thing from spas to restaurants
five days. Air mail to Australia, and bars, and The Bold Italic, FedEx
Tel (1-800) 463-3339.
Canada, Ireland, New Zealand, which lists things to do in
and the UK takes five to ten the city, such as where to Post Office (General
business days. Packages sent find the best coffee or the Mail Facility)
overseas by surface rate may best brunch. 1300 Evans Ave.
take four to six weeks. The Tel 550-5134.
federal post office offers a range Open 7am–8:30pm Mon–Fri,
of special services: Priority Mail Television and Radio 8am–2pm Sat.
promises delivery faster than Four TV networks operate in UPS
first-class mail, while Global San Francisco: CBS is on channel Tel (1-800) 742-5877.
Priority arrives to most inter- 5 (KPIX), ABC on channel 7
national destinations within (KGO), NBC on channel 11 US Postal Service
five days. The more expensive (KNTV), and Fox on channel 2 Tel (1-800) 275-8777.
∑ usps.com
Express Mail delivers next day (KTVU). The local PBS station,
within the US, and within two to which offers cultural programs
Newspapers,
three days to many international as well as some classic BBC
Magazines, and
destinations. Express mail can shows, is on channel 9 (KQED). Websites
also be arranged through Cable offerings include CNN,
private delivery companies, ESPN, BBC America, and pay The Bold Italic
such as DHL, FedEx, and UPS. channels. Some pay channels, ∑ thebolditalic.com
Correspondence sent to you such as HBO and Showtime,
Café de la Presse
c/o General Delivery, Civic are free in most hotels. 352 Grant Ave. Map 5 C4.
Center, 101 Hyde Street, San AM radio stations include Tel 398-2680.
Francisco, CA 94142 will be KCBS (740 Hz; news), KOIT
held for 30 days. Show (1260 Hz; soft rock), and KNBR Fog City News
photographic proof of identity (680 Hz; sport). FM stations 455 Market St. Map 6 D4.
on collection. The main post include KALW (91.7 FM; news), Tel 543-7400.
offices in San Francisco are KLLC Alice (97.3 FM; pop), KBLX Yelp
marked on the Street Finder (102.9 FM; jazz), and KDFC ∑ yelp.com
maps (see pp290–300). (102.1 FM; classical).
GETTING TO SAN FRANCISCO

several international airlines offer direct North american cities. several cruise liners
flights to san Francisco, and charter and dock at Pier 35 on their way north to
domestic services are also numerous. alaska or south to the Mexican riviera.
amtrak trains run from all parts of the Check with your travel agent or individual
us to nearby Oakland, and bus shuttles operators for the best deals. For visitors
operate from this station into san Francisco. arriving by car or bus, there can be little
long-distance luxury bus services offer a to beat the views of the city and its
less frenetic and often cheaper way to surroundings when driving over the
travel for those arriving from other Golden Gate and Bay bridges.
80
Pacific Rim, Europe, and Latin transportation into the city
Oakland America. The arrival and on the lower level. The top
International
101
departure gates are arranged level has services for those
92 around each of four terminals departing from San Francisco,
San
Francisco
(1, 2, 3, and International). All including baggage handlers,
International 880 international airlines are ticket and insurance counters,
84
located in the state-of-the-art restaurants, bars, shops, and
101 International Terminal. security checkpoints. All car
San José Domestic flights on Virgin rental and parking shuttles,
International
America and JetBlue airlines public buses, and door-to-door
Airport locations around the Bay Area depart from the International shuttle minibus services deliver
Terminal, while flights to and (and pick up) their passengers
from Canada are located in the at this level. The airport’s
Arriving by Air domestic terminals. Always 24-hour shuttle, which
San Francisco International check the Airport Information operates between terminals
Airport (SFO) is one of the website in advance. and long-term parking, picks
busiest airports in the world. Walkways link all the passengers up on the center
Not only is it one of the largest terminals, which surround a island near the ticket counters
in the United States, but it is short-term parking area. every 5 to 20 minutes.
also one of the most user- Long- term parking garages, Bank of America branches
friendly. The major carriers a global communications and currency exchange
operating there include Air center, a consolidated car- services are available from 7am
Canada, American Airlines, rental center, and the airport’s to 11pm in all terminals, and
British Airways, Delta, KLM Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) there are Wells Fargo ATMs in
Airlines, Qantas, United station (see p286) are all areas. Each terminal also
Airlines, US Airways, and connected to the terminals has a range of newsstands,
Virgin Atlantic. by a light-rail shuttle. restaurants, and snack bars.
Other airports near the city Visitors arriving at SFO will Other services provided
include San José International find customs, baggage claim, include baby-changing
Airport (SJC), which is about 1 sightseeing information, car- facilities, free wireless Internet,
hour away from San Francisco, rental booths, and ground mailboxes, and postage-stamp
and Oakland International
Airport (OAK), which is 30
minutes away.
San Francisco
International Airport
(SFo)
San Francisco International
Airport is located south of the
city, 14 miles (23 km) from
the center of town. Its main
runways are right next to
San Francisco Bay. SFO is
convenient for access to the
Greater San Francisco and
metro Bay areas and Silicon
Valley, with international
connections to and from the Escalators between levels in SFO’s International Terminal
GettinG to San FranciSco  277
vending machines. There is

also a clinic for those with
medical problems (see p271).
Wheelchairs, TDD terminals
for the hearingimpaired, and
an airport shuttle service for
the disabled are readily
available. You can also use
the white courtesy phones
that allow you to contact all
airport services and facilities
free of charge.
Throughout the airport,
a series of galleries display
changing exhibits on a wide The area in front of the terminal at Oakland International Airport
range of subjects. There is also
a museum dedicated to the other International Tickets and fares
history of aviation in the Airports Flights to San Francisco (and
International Terminal. Most international flights hotel rates) are most expensive
arrive at SFO, but oakland in the summer. Fortunately,
International and San José though, the city’s best weather
Getting into the City International airports are also is in the fall, from September to
from Sfo viable options. Both offer good the end of October, and flight
Information booths on the ground transportation into San prices are often a bit cheaper
lower level of the airport offer Francisco by doortodoor bus then. Late June is particularly
advice on ground transporta shuttle and limousine. BART expensive and crowded in San
tion, fares, and boarding serves Oakland International Francisco due to the annual
locations. Follow the arrows in conjunction with a shuttle, Gay Pride Parade (see p51).
marked “Ground Transportation.” getting people into the city Websites such as Priceline,
Buses operated by within an hour. Expedia, and Travelocity often
SuperShuttle depart Visitors flying offer deals on airfares, and
every 20 minutes into San José can Kayak compares prices from
from 5am take a SamTrans all of these sites, as well as the
to 11pm, shuttle bus airline sites, to deliver the best
serving three to the CalTrain possible deal.
citycenter station (see
areas with p278), arriving
dropoffs at A SuperShuttle minibus service in San Francisco Package Deals
major hotels. in about 90 By far the best value for visitors
Other companies offer a door minutes. San José airport has can be found by purchasing a
todoor service, such as expanded significantly, and the package that includes airfare
Bayporter Express and city’s transportation authority and hotel, and sometimes a
American Airporter Shuttle. has managed to connect it to rental car. Websites such
These minibus shuttles and the lightrail system by means as Expedia.com and
shared limousines will take you of a looping shuttle service.. Travelocity.com offer exclusive
to a specific address. You share package deals that are not
the cost of the trip with other available through travel agents.
passengers for an average of However, be sure to check
$19 to $40. the hotel component, since
The average fare for a it is not uncommon for sites to
metered cab ride into San bundle a mediocre hotel into a
Francisco is $45. This nonstop package. Bear in mind that if
trip can take as little as 25 you have booked a package
minutes or as long as 40 through a third party, any
minutes or even longer during changes or complaints will
rush hour (7–9am and 4–7pm). have to be handled by the
Travelers on a budget, with booking party; you will not
plenty of time (to allow for be able to make changes to
frequent stops), can hop on SFO’s your reservation directly. In
lightrail shuttle to the airport’s addition to the travel sites,
BART station and take the hotels also sometimes offer
subway to San Francisco, the East packages that include meals,
Bay, or the CalTrain depot. A one The airy interior of San José a rental car, tourist activities,
way fare to downtown is $8.65. International Airport or spa services.
Arriving by Train (see pp114–15). From here, you joining at Yerba Buena Island,
The national passenger rail can then take ferries, buses, BART and its highway runs alongside
network, Amtrak, links most trains, and streetcars (see pp282– the skyscrapers of the Financial
major US cities. It also connects 3) to other parts of the city. District. The first two exits take
with bus, ferry, and air carriers Amtrak passengers arriving at you to the city center. Arriving
and operates a joint service San José can transfer via the from the south via the peninsula,
across the border with Rail CalTrain commuter rail system you can choose to follow either
Canada. All long-distance trains to San Francisco. A separate US 101 or 280 into the city. Both
offer sleeping quarters and full ticket ($9 one way) is required routes are well marked, and there
refreshment facilities. Often for this trip and must be are no tolls on the roads.
there is a sightseeing lounge purchased at the vending Driving in the States is on the
with large windows allowing machine located on the righthand side of the road. Red
good views of the passing land- platform. Most shuttle buses stop lights and stop signs are
scape. Unfortunately, some of from Oakland also stop at compulsory stops. More useful
the trains are quite dated and San Francisco’s CalTrain tips for driving in San Francisco
long-distance routes are often station, which is located on can be found on page 288.
delayed. However, if you have the corner of Fourth Street and
time, traveling by train is a Townsend Street.
great way to see parts of the
country you would not
otherwise experience. Arriving by Car
Passengers are required to You will get a spectacular
reserve seats in advance on introduction to the city by
many services. Advance driving over Golden Gate Bridge
booking is recommended for or Bay Bridge. Both are toll
all travel during peak periods. bridges, but the toll ($6 for
Amtrak offers a varied program Golden Gate Bridge and One-way toll system operating on
of special discounts and between $4 and $6 for Bay Bay Bridge
packages, including 15- and Bridge depending on the time
30-day passes allowing un- and day) is charged only one Arriving by Long-
limited travel within specified way. If your route is from the Distance Bus
zones. Ask your travel agent north via US 101, the Golden Regular services operated by
for details. Gate Bridge toll will be collected Greyhound Bus Line reach
Visitors traveling to San as you enter the city. To get into most parts of the United States.
Francisco by train will arrive at the city center from Golden The buses are modern and
Amtrak’s station in Emeryville, Gate Bridge, follow the US 101 clean, and include wireless
to the north of Oakland. The signs to Lombard Street and Internet and electrical outlets.
station is in an industrial area, so Van Ness Avenue. Ask at Greyhound ticket
most passengers continue their Approaching the city from the counters in bus stations or
journeys as soon as possible. east via I-80 through Oakland, look online for special rates.
Amtrak runs a free shuttle to the Bay Bridge toll is again The average 8-hour San
the city center. The ride takes collected only on the approach Francisco–Los Angeles adult
approximately 45 minutes and to San Francisco. This bridge has fare is $59 (one-way), and
terminates at the Ferry Building two main sections (see pp166–7), discounts are usually offered
for online purchases, 14-day
advance purchases, students,
seniors, and children. Inter-
national travelers can purchase
tickets online and have them
waiting at the Will Call counter
of the appropriate bus station.
If you are planning to make
several stops along the way, or
if you want to tour the country
on an extended trip, there may
be a package designed to
suit your requirements.
Green Tortoise offers an
inexpensive and sometimes
adventurous way to travel by
bus, but it is not for everyone.
Facilities and stops are limited, so
passengers have to prepare and
Amtrak train on the tracks at Emeryville station, near Oakland share meals among the group.
GettinG to San FranciSco  279
On some routes, buses stop to

let riders explore a national park
or freshen up in a natural hot
spring. The popular Coastal
Crawler tour spends a week
winding down the California
coast from San Francisco to Los
Angeles, with stops in Monterey,
Big Sur, and Hearst Castle ($320
round trip for the travel, not
including the three nights’
hostel accommodations in Los
Angeles). Other Green Tortoise
routes include Los Angeles,
Yosemite National Park, the
Grand Canyon, Death Valley, Sailing under Golden Gate Bridge, an unforgettable experience
and Las Vegas. Journeys are
slow, so if you need to reach tour companies. It can attract ships dock near Fisherman’s
your destination at a precise petty criminals, so stay alert Wharf at Pier 35. The city is the
time, it may be better to take and watch your belongings. embarkation and debarkation
the Greyhound or a train. point of many operators’ Alaskan
The Transbay Terminal, or Mexican Riviera cruises. Taxis
located at Main and Howard Arriving by Sea and public transportation such
Streets until 2017, is used by Sailing under Golden Gate as BART, buses, and Muni Metro
long-distance, regional, and Bridge into San Francisco Bay is a streetcars are available at the
local public transit bus lines, highlight of arriving at the Port dock; the city center is only a
as well as a few sightseeing of San Francisco. Luxury cruise few minutes’ ride away.
DIRECTORY
Arriving by Air Info Service BayPorter Arriving by Long-
Tel (650) 821-HELP. Express Distance Bus
Air Canada Tel 467-1800.
Tel (1-888) 247-2262.
JetBlue (Scheduled service Green Tortoise
Tel (1-800) 538-2583. between SFO and Tel 956-7500.
Delta/KLM Airlines ∑ greentortoise.com
Parking Garage Oakland airports.)
Tel (1-800) 618-0104. Greyhound Bus Line
Tel (650) 821-8211. SamTrans
American Airlines Tel (1-800) 660-4287. Tel (1-800) 231-2222.
Traveler’s Aid ∑ greyhound.com
Tel (1-800) 433-7300. Tel (650) 821-2730. ∑ samtrans.com
British Airways Virgin America SuperShuttle Arriving by Sea

Tel (1-800) 247-9297. Tel (1-800) 258-3826.
Tel (1-877) 359-8474. Port of San Francisco
∑ supershuttle.com
Qantas Pier 1, The Embarcadero.
Other Tickets and Fares Tel 274-0400.
Tel (1-800) 227-4500. International ∑ sfgov.org
United Airlines Airports Expedia
Tel (1-800) 864-8331. ∑ expedia.com
Oakland Airport
US Airways Information Kayak
Tel (510) 577-4000. ∑ kayak.com
Tel (1-800) 428-4322.
∑ oaklandairport.com
Virgin Atlantic Priceline
San José Airport ∑ priceline.com
Tel (1-800) 862-8621.
Information
Tel (408) 277-4759. Travelocity
San Francisco ∑ travelocity.com
International ∑ sjc.org
Airport (SFO) Arriving by Train
Airport
Airport Information Transportation Amtrak
Tel (650) 821-8211 or Tel (1-800) 872-7245.
American Airporter
(1-800) 435-9736. ∑ amtrak.com
Shuttle
∑ flysfo.com
Tel 202-0733. CalTrain
Airport Police (Reservations Tel (1-800) 660-4287.
Tel (650) 821-7111. recommended.) ∑ caltrain.com
GETTING AROUND
SAN FRANCISCO
san Francisco occupies a fairly compact area, neighborhoods, as well as the suburbs and
and many of its most famous sights are only outlying areas. Most visitors make time to
a short walk from one another. The public ride on one of the city’s famous cable cars.
transportation system is very efficient and Taxis can be hard to find, particularly outside
easy to use. Bus routes crisscross the city and the major tourist areas. Passenger ferries and
pass by many attractions. Muni Metro boats run regular trips east and north across
streetcars and BarT lines serve downtown san Francisco Bay.
electric, as are the buses – hence

the maze of power lines
throughout the city.
Planning Your Journey

The public transit system is best
avoided at rush hour (7–9am
and 4–7pm Mon–Fri). Ask your
hotel concierge for directions or
use the Trip Planner on the 511
website. There are several ticket
options. Single tickets can be
bought for most services. A
Muni Passport (see p282) gives
San Francisco’s fleet of Green Cabs, using hybrid or electric cars unlimited rides for one, three or
seven days on lightrail cars,
Green Travel cars than any other region in the streetcars, buses, and cable cars.
As well as boasting a reliable, US. Half of the city’s taxi fleet The electronic prepay Clipper
clean, and safe public trans consists of “green” cabs that are card is accepted on Muni and
portation system, San Francisco either hybrid or electric vehicles, BART. It deducts the exact fare
is easily explored on foot. There or run on biofuel. Streetcars run each time you use it. Contact
are also many cycle paths. down Market Street all the way the Transport Agency for
The Bay Area has more hybrid to the waterfront. They are all more information.
Street Layout and an address, make sure you also streets begin on the south
Numbering get the name of the nearest side of Market Street, in the
cross street and the city center, and end in the
Most of San Francisco’s streets neighborhood of your Mission District. The Street
are based on a grid system. destination. Finder (see pp290–300) provides
Market Street crosses the city Local residents refer to the a comprehensive map with
from southwest to northeast, numerically named avenues in details of the city.
creating the northern and the Richmond District as “The
southern sections. With few Avenues.” Numerically named
exceptions, each block is
designated a number by
hundreds, starting at zero. So,
the first block from Market Numbers
Street has addresses between increase
1 and 99; the second block has
addresses between 100 and
eT
199; and so on. House numbers

re
sT
on east–west streets increase as

T
ke
Numbers
ar
they move west from San Numbers increase

M
Numbers increase
Francisco Bay. Numbers on
increase
north–south streets increase
going north of Market Street,
but also as they move south of
Market Street. When asking for Street numbering increases north and south of Market Street and west from
San Francisco Bay
GettinG around San FranciSco  281
Walking in San Francisco Motorcycles and Mopeds Bicycles, equipment, repairs,

San Francisco is easy to explore A helmet, a valid US or inter and tours are available from
on foot. The main tourist areas national motorcycle license, Bay City Bike and Blazing
are all within 15 to 20 minutes a deposit, and prior riding Saddles. They rent bikes for
of one another, and although experience are required when around $32 a day or $220 a
the hills, particularly Nob Hill hiring motorcycles or mopeds. week. Blazing Saddles also rents
(see pp103–105) and Telegraph Parking for these vehicles is electric bikes at its Hyde Street
Hill (see pp90–93), can be a either deeply discounted or and North Point locations.
struggle, the views from the free, but they are not allowed
top make them well worth on the highways or bridges.
the strenuous climb. Tours and Other Ways to
At traffic lights, electronic Get Around
signs for pedestrians show an Cycling GoCar Tours rents out small
illuminated white human Cycling is very popular in San vehicles that come equipped
figure when it is OK to go; Francisco. There are many with recorded GPS tours of the
a countdown in flashing red bicycle lanes and all city. Extranomical Tours
lights tells you how long you buses are equipped to offers affordable small
have to cross before the light carry bikes strapped group tours, while
changes to the red hand to the outside. Cable Car Charters
“Don’t Walk” signal. Jaywalking Bikes can also be runs guided tours
(crossing in the middle of a taken on the light on motorized
block, or using a crosswalk rail Muni cars and cable cars. Visitors
when the “Don’t Walk” signal on BART, although can go on half or
is showing) can result in a they are not allowed A GoCar with GPS fullday bus tours
minimum $50 fine. at rush hour (7–9am and themed walking
Vehicles are driven on the and 4–6pm Mon–Fri). There are tours, or take a Segway tour or
righthand side of the road in two marked scenic bicycle a helicopter tour. To get away
the US. Always look both routes. One goes from Golden from the city, try taking the
ways before you cross. Take Gate Park (see pp144–59) south Wine Country Tour Shuttle
care at traffic lights – vehicles to Lake Merced; the other starts out to Napa Valley. Pedicabs
are allowed to turn right at the southern end of Golden and horsedrawn carriages can
on a red light if the way Gate Bridge (see pp64–7) and be found near Fisherman’s
is clear. crosses to Marin County. Wharf (see pp80–81).
DIRECTORY
Green Travel and 550 North Point. Helicopter Tours: Map 3 C2.
Map 5 A2, 5 A1, and 5 A1. SF Helicopter Tours Tel 4090672.
Green Cab Tel 2028888. Tel (1800) 4002404. ∑ citysegwaytours.com
Tel 6264733. ∑ sfhelicopters.com
City Bike Hotline SF Comprehensive
Planning Your Tel 311. Heritage Walks Shuttle Tours
Journey 2007 Franklin St. Tel (1866) 9918687.
Tours Map 4 E3. Walking Tours: All
511 Tel 4413000. About Chinatown
Tel 511. ∑ 511.org Bus Tours: Gray Line ∑ sfheritage.org 660 California St.
Transport Agency of San Francisco Map 5 C4.
Horse and Carriage
∑ sfmta.com
2627 Taylor St. Tel 9828839.
Tours: Hackney Horse
Map 5 A1. ∑ allaboutchina
& Carriage
Motorcycle and Also at: Transbay Terminal.
Pier 41. Tel (408) 5350277. town.com
Moped Rental Tel 3535310.
Wine Tours:
∑ graylineof Real SF Tour: Wine
EagleRider Rentals Bars and Cable Cars Wine Country
sanfrancisco.com
488 8th St. Map 11 A2. Tel (1888) 9SFTOUR. Tour Shuttle
Tel 5031900. ∑ eagle Cruisin’ the Castro ∑ therealsftour.com Tel 5135400
rider.com/sanfrancisco Tours or (1866) 9918687.
Tel 2551821. San Francisco Parks ∑ winecountrytour
Bicycle Rental ∑ cruisinthecastro.com Alliance shuttle.com
451 Hayes St.
Bay City Bike Extranomical Tours Map 9 B1.
2661 Taylor St. Map 5 A1. 501 Bay St. Map 5 A1. Tel 6213260.
Tel 3462453. Tel 3570700. ∑ sfparksalliance.org
Blazing Saddles GoCar Tours: Segway Tours:

1095 Columbus Ave, Tel 4415695. City Segway Tours
2715 Hyde St, ∑ gocartours.com 333 Jefferson St.
282  SUR vival GUide
Traveling by Bus and Muni especially at those stops that

are located at islands in the
Metro Streetcar middle of the street.
San Francisco Municipal Railway, or Muni as it is commonly The route number and name
of the destination are shown on
called, is the organization that runs the city’s public the front and side of every bus,
transportation system. You can use one interchangeable near the front door. Route
pass – Muni Passport – to travel on Muni buses, Muni Metro numbers that are followed by
streetcars (electric trams), and the cable-car lines, which are a letter (L, X, AX, BX, etc.) are
mainly used by tourists (see pp284–5). Buses and streetcars either express services or make
limited stops. Ask the driver if
serve most tourist attractions and all neighborhoods. Using
you are not sure where the bus
the bus and streetcar map on the inside back cover, and a stops. Some lines offer a Night
Muni Passport, you can ride the city’s public transportation all Owl Service (midnight–6am),
day at a fraction of the cost of car rentals and parking fees. but taxis (see p289) are often the
safest means of getting around
after dark.
Fares and Tickets
Buses and streetcars both cost
$2 per ride. When paying your Bus Stops
fare, you can request a free Bus stops are indicated by signs
transfer, which will allow you displaying the Muni logo or by
to change to another bus or yellow bands on poles. Route
streetcar without paying an numbers of buses that stop
additional fare. The transfer is there are listed below the sign
valid for 90 minutes. and on the exterior wall of the
If you are planning to make shelter. Most bus shelters now
a number of trips by Muni, have digital signs showing
a Muni Passport, valid for 1, 3, Route numbers are displayed on the front which routes are running and
or 7 days, allows unlimited travel and side of the bus when the next bus will arrive.
on buses, streetcars, and cable Route maps and service
cars ($17–$35). Muni Passports bus, so be prepared to give frequency guides are posted
are available at many stores and up your seat. inside most bus shelters.
information kiosks throughout Smoking, drinking, eating, and
the city, including the kiosk at playing music are prohibited on
SFO, and at the Visitor buses. Guide dogs for the blind Using Streetcars
Information Center. can ride for free at any time; Streetcars operate both above
The Clipper card is a other animals may be allowed and below ground. Streetcar
convenient payment option, and at certain times of day, at the lines J (Church), K (Ingleside), L
is accepted on all Muni services. driver’s discretion. (Taraval), M (Ocean View), N
This electronic pre-pay card can To indicate that you want to (Judah), and T (Third) all share
be bought on the SFMTA get off at the next stop, pull the the same tracks, which run
website (www.sfmta.com), as cord that runs along the beneath Market Street. So if
well as at Muni metro stations. windows. A “Stop Requested” you intend to catch a streetcar
Hold it against the reader at sign will light up. Instructions at a Market Street station, it is a
station gates or when boarding a about how to open the doors good idea to check the letter
vehicle, and the exact fare is are posted near the exit. Look and name of the one you are
automatically deducted. carefully for oncoming traffic about to board to avoid taking
when alighting from the bus, the wrong line.
Using Buses
Buses stop only at designated
bus stops, every two or three
blocks. On boarding, put the
exact change in the fare box, or
show your Muni Passport to the
driver. Ask your driver to let you
know when you are near your
destination, and watch the sign
above the driver’s head, which
will flash the name of the next
stop. Senior citizens and
disabled passengers have
priority at the front of the Muni bus shelter, with glass walls and a digital timetable
DIRECTORY
Muni Information
Tel 331 (inside SF);
(415) 701-3000 (outside SF);
TTY: (415) 701-2323
∑ sfmta.com
Muni Passports
A Muni Metro streetcar, with its distinctive silver-and-red cars
Hyde and Beach Public
Along Market Street, four show which streetcar is about to Transit Kiosk
of the seven underground arrive. Doors open automatically Hyde & Beach Sts. Map 4 F1.
stations are shared by both Muni to allow passengers to enter. In Visitor Information Center
Metro streetcars and BART (see the event they don’t open at a Lower level, Hallidie Plaza,
p286). Entrances to Muni and street-level or low-level platform Market and Powell sts.
BART are clearly signposted stop, push on the low bar Map 5 B5. Tel 391-2000.
throughout. In the station, look beside the exit. ∑ sanfrancisco.travel
for the separate “Muni” entrance. Stops above ground are
Pay, use your Clipper card, or indicated by an orange-and- distinctive silver-and-red look.
show a Muni Passport, then brown metal flag, or by a yellow The F line streetcar runs only
proceed downstairs to the band around a pole, marked along Market Street, with vintage
platform. To go west, choose “Muni” or “Car Stop.” streetcars from all over the world.
“Outbound”; to go east, choose Lines J, K, L, M, N, and T all Streetcars are also known as
“Downtown.” Electronic signs use Breda cars, which have a Light Rail Vehicles (LRVs).
Sightseeing by Bus and Streetcar

Popular routes are outlined on the map below. Historic
streetcars run on the F line along Market Street to the
Wharves. The N line streetcar runs above ground from
the Ferry Building to CalTrain depot. More information
is available from Muni or the city’s Visitor Information
Center. For more bus and streetcar routes, see the map
on the inside back cover of this guide.
F line streetcar approaching the Ferry Building
Powell and Hyde Cable Car
Fisherman’s Wharf
Fort Mason turntable
piers
Palace of
Key
Fine Arts
Route 21
Coit
Route 30 Cow
Tower
Route 38
Hollow
Route 39 Presidio
Route 45
North Beach
Route 47
Route 76
Ferry
Building
F line
N line
Chinatown
BART station Financial
CalTrain station District
Ferry jetty Japan Center
Union
Square
Yerba Buena AT&T Park

Golden Gate Park Civic Center Gardens
museums
Caltrain
Castro Street station depot To South San Francisco
284  SUr vivAl GUide
Traveling by Cable Car Commuters like to use cable

cars too, so avoid traveling
As the only “moving national monument” in the United States, during rush hours if possible
San Francisco’s cable cars are world-famous (see pp106–7) and (7–9am and 4–7pm Mon–Fri).
every visitor will want to ride one at least once. The cable car Whatever time you travel,
service runs from 6.30am to 12.30am daily. There is a flat fare though, you are much more
likely to get a seat if you board
of $7 for each journey, with a discount for seniors and the
the cable car at the end of the
disabled after 9pm and before 7am. Although this is a great line you have chosen.
way to experience the city, buses and streetcars (see pp282–3)
are often a more practical option.
Tickets
If you have not already
Using the Cable Cars some of the city’s best-known purchased a Muni Passport (see
Cable cars run along three sights. The California line runs p282), you can buy a ticket ($7)
routes. The Powell–Hyde line from the base of Market Street, or a one-day pass ($17) from the
is the most popular. Starting at the Embarcadero, along conductor. Tickets are collected
at the Powell and Market California Street. It passes once you board. Muni passes,
turntable (see p119), it skirts through part of the Financial souvenir tickets, and maps are
Union Square and climbs Nob District and Chinatown. At available at kiosks at Powell and
Hill providing good views of Nob Hill the Powell lines Market streets and at Hyde and
Chinatown. It continues past cross the California line, so Beach streets, or at the city Visitor
the Cable Car Museum (see passengers can transfer Information Center (see p283).
p105), crosses Lombard Street between lines. If you have a
(see p88), then descends Hyde one-way ticket you will need
Street to the turntable near to purchase another, but those Cable-Car Stops
Aquatic Park (see pp174–5). The with a Muni Passport have an To catch a cable car you can line
Powell–Mason line also begins unlimited number of cable-car up at either end of a line or wait
at Powell and Market streets rides. The California line then at a stop. Stand on the sidewalk
and follows the same route to continues over Nob Hill, ending and wave to alert the gripman.
the Cable Car Barn. From there, at Van Ness Avenue. For each of Do not board until the car has
it passes by North Beach and the three lines, the return trip come to a complete stop and
ends at Bay Street. Sit facing follows the outward route, so be prepared to jump on quickly.
east on the Powell lines and riders are able to catch views Stops are marked by maroon
on your journey you will see from the other side of the car. signs that display the outline
Recognizing Your Bell

Cable Car
Currently 40 cable cars operate
on the city’s three lines. Each car Grab handle
seats 29 to 34 passengers and, Line board
depending on the type of car,
Car number
can accommodate an additional
20 to 40 people standing.
On the front, back and sides Running board (holds
of every cable car is the name up to eight
of the line: Powell–Hyde, Headlight passengers)
Powell–Mason, or California
Street. The number of the cable Bell
car is also displayed. California
Destination board
Street cars are easy to identify
because they have a
driver’s cab at both ends.
Cars on the two Powell
lines have only one cab.
The conductor and
gripman are generally
friendly and helpful, so
ask one of them if you
are not sure which
line to take to reach
your destination.
Side seating Running board Gate

GettinG Around SAn FrAnciSco  285
Sightseeing by Cable Car Hyde Street

turntable
The city’s hills present no problem to Powell and Bay
cable cars. They tackle precipitous turntable
slopes effortlessly, passing sights and
areas popular with tourists. The most
thrilling descent is the final stretch of
the Powell–Hyde line.
Key
California line
Powell–Hyde line
Powell–Mason line Lombard Street
Turntable/crossing
Terminus
Cable Car Barn
Nob Hill Union Bank
California and Van crossing of California
Ness terminus
Grace Cathedral California and
Market terminus
Union
Square
All cable-car lines cross at Nob Hill

Powell Street turntable
of a cable car in white, or by

a yellow line painted on the
road. On weekends, the stops
at Powell and Market, and at
Fisherman’s Wharf, are typically
very crowded – be prepared to
wait at least 30 minutes.
Traveling Safely in
a Cable Car
If there is not a crowd, you
can choose whether to sit or
stand inside, sit outside on a
bench or stand on an end.
More adventurous passengers
may prefer to hang onto a
pole while standing on a side Passengers riding on a cable car’s running board
running board.
Wherever you find a place, boarding or getting off a car. DIRECTORY
be sure to hold on tight. Do Often cable cars stop at an
not get in the way of the intersection so that you have Useful Numbers
gripman; he needs a lot of to get on or off between the Cable Car Barn
room to operate the grip lever. car and other vehicles, and 1201 Mason St.
This off-limits area is marked this can be dangerous. All Map 5 B3.
by yellow lines on the floor. passengers must get off at the Museum Tel (415) 474-1887.
Use caution while on board. end of the line. If you wish to
Passing other cable cars is make a return trip, you must Muni Information
Tel 701-3000.
exciting, but be extremely wait for the car to be turned
∑ sfmta.com
careful not to lean out too far, around on the turntable, or
Cable-car information, fares,
because they get very close to switched to the return line, Muni Passports.
one another. Be vigilant when before boarding again.
Traveling by BART
The san Francisco Peninsula and the east Bay are linked by
BarT (Bay area rapid Transit). This is a 103 mile (165 km)
rapid transit system with a fleet of high-speed, wheelchair-
accessible trains. BarT is an easy and efficient way of
getting to both Bay airports. The BART logo
Taking a Trip by BART
1 BART trains run 4am–midnight

Mon–Fri, 6am–midnight Sat, 8am–
midnight Sun. BART stops at four
Richmond
El Cerrito del Norte
El Cerrito Plaza
Walnut
Creek
North Concord /
Concord
Martinez
Pittsburg /
stations beneath Market Street – North Berkeley Pleasant Bay Point
Hill
Civic Center, Powell, Montgomery, Ashby Orinda Lafayette
Downtown
and Embarcadero. All trains from Berkeley Rockridge
Daly City stop at city-center stations Macarthur
West 19th St / Oakland
before heading for the East Bay Oakland 12th St / Oakland City Center
through a 4-mile (6-km) underwater Lake Merritt
tunnel. Transfers in the East Bay Embarcadero
Fruitvale
Montgomery St
are possible only at two stations: Powell St
Coliseum / Oakland Airport
MacArthur and Oakland City Civic Center
16th St Mission
Center – 12th Street. Glen Park 24th St Mission San Leandro
Bus
Bay Fair Dublin /
Balboa Pleasanton
Park Oakland
Daly City International
Key Colma
Airport
Hayward
Castro
Valley
West Dublin /
Pleasanton
South San Francisco
Richmond–Daly City/Millbrae San Francisco
South Hayward
San Bruno International Airport
Union City
Milbrae–Bay Point Millbrae
Fremont
Fremont–Daly City
Fremont–Richmond
Pleasanton–Daly City
2 BART tickets are issued by

machines. Rates are posted near
the machines inside BART 3 Insert coins or bills here.
Machines will accept coins and
stations. Clipper cards (see p282) notes, and most will also take
are also valid on BART services. debit/credit cards. The machines
can give up to $10 in change.
4 The value inserted is shown

here. To buy a round-trip
ticket, insert twice the amount
for a one-way fare. 6 Your ticket is issued here. Each
person traveling should have his
or her own ticket, or Clipper card.
5 Tickets (below) are magnetically

coded with the value, which is
7
then printed on the ticket.
To gain access to the platforms,
you must run your ticket through
a turnstile or use your Clipper
card. The fare for your trip is
automatically deducted from the
ticket/card value. Before you
leave the station, you must
re-insert your ticket in the
turnstile. If any value remains,
your ticket will be returned as
Insert ticket into Magnetic the turnstile opens.
barrier this way strip
8 All trains display their final

destination – westbound to
San Francisco/Daly City, for
9 BART stations have personnel
on hand to answer questions
and assist passengers with
example; or eastbound to the machines. For further
Oakland, Richmond, Bay Point, information, visit www.bart.
or Fremont. Train doors open gov or telephone 989-BART
automatically. Platforms are (989-2278).
marked with the end of the line
in the direction in which the
train is traveling.
Ferries and Bay Trips Bay Trips

Bay sightseeing cruises from
Before the construction of the Golden Gate and Bay Fisherman’s Wharf are operated
bridges, ferries would shuttle from shore to shore, by Blue and Gold Fleet and Red
carrying people and goods to and from the northern and White Fleet. Destinations
include Angel Island and towns
counties and east Bay. although no longer a necessity,
on the north shore of the Bay
boats and ferries are still a favorite way to get around. (see pp162–3). There are also
San Francisco Bay includes the cities of San Francisco combined boat and bus tours
and oakland (see pp166–7), as well as the smaller towns to visit San Francisco and Muir
of tiburon and Sausalito (see p163). Woods (see p162). Tours cost
$31–$100.
Many Bay trips pass near
Alcatraz (see pp84–7), but only
Ferry Services $11.25 each way). Food and Alcatraz Cruises sells tickets
Bay Area residents adore their drinks are available on board. and tours to The Rock.
ferries. During the week, Note that ferries carry only foot Hornblower Dining Yachts
commuters use them to avoid passengers and bicycles, offers weekend brunches and
traffic on the bridges, and at not motor vehicles. dinners from Wednesdays to
weekends suburban families Golden Gate Ferry services Sundays on its charter cruises
leave their cars behind and depart from the Ferry Building, (call to check timings). Oceanic
hop on for jaunts to the city. on the Embarcadero, which is Society Expeditions arranges
Ferries do not have audio a destination in its own right nautical environmental safaris
tours to identify the sights (see p114), housing food shops, with an onboard naturalist to
along the coastline, but they a weekly farmers’ market, and the Farallon Islands, 25 miles
are less expensive than sight several restaurants. The Blue (40 km) offshore. These safaris
seeing cruises (the trip from and Gold Fleet docks at nearby often spot whales on the way to
San Francisco to Sausalito is Fisherman’s Wharf (see pp80–81). the islands from March through
May. There are also whale
Vallejo watching expeditions off San
Popular Ferries Francisco’s west coast (from
and Bay Trips $120 per person, see p260).
Check with individual
operators for schedules and
seasonal variations.
Larkspur
DIRECTORY
Ferries
Bay trip vessel Blue and Gold Fleet
PIER 39, 41. Map 5 B1.
Tiburon
Tel 7058200.
∑ blueandgoldfleet.com
Sausalito Golden Gate Ferry

Tel 4552000.
∑ goldengate.org
Alcatraz Island
Bay Trips
Fisherman’s Wharf Alcatraz Cruises
piers Pier 33. Map 5 C1. Tel 9817625.
Ferry Building
KEY piers ∑ alcatrazcruises.com
Bay trips Alameda
Hornblower Dining Yachts
Alcatraz Island (Alcatraz Cruises) Pier 3. Map 6 D3. Tel 4388300.
∑ hornblower.com
Sausalito ferry
Oceanic Society Expeditions
Tiburon ferry
Tel 2569604.
Larkspur ferry ∑ oceanicsociety.org
Vallejo ferry Red and White Fleet
East Bay ferry Pier 43½. Map 5 B1. Tel 6732900.
∑ redandwhite.com
288  Sur vival Guide
Driving in San Francisco fines are paid. If your car has

been towed away, call the
Congestion, a shortage of parking areas (and their high Police Department Towed
prices), and strictly enforced parking laws discourage Vehicle Information line. You’ll
many visitors from driving in San Francisco. Speed limits need to go either to the city’s
vary, but the maximum is 35 mph (56 km/h) within the Department of Parking and
Transportation or to Auto
city. Many streets are one-way, with traffic lights at most
Return, depending on whether
corners in the city center. a private towing company or
the municipal towing service
and “Yield” signs are yellow has towed your car. Expect to
Car Rental and black. “One Way” signs are pay a towing and storage fee.
You must be at least 25 years black and white. If there is no For rental cars, you’ll need to
old with a valid driving license oncoming traffic, drivers may show the contract before
(a US or International Driver’s turn right at a red light. the car will be released. Cars
License is best) to rent a car. Otherwise, red lights mean taken to the city lot face an
All agencies require a major stop and amber lights mean additional parking ticket.
credit card or a large cash proceed with caution.
deposit. Damage and liability
insurance is recommended. Driving Outside
Always return the car with a Parking the City
full tank of gas to avoid the Parking meters operate 8am No toll payment is required to
inflated gas prices charged to 6pm Monday to Saturday, leave the city via either the Bay
by the rental agency. Many except on national holidays, Bridge or the Golden Gate Bridge,
agencies now offer the option when parking is free. Most but you will need to pay coming
of pre-paying for a tank of meters have short time limits, back in. Speed limits on highways
gas at lower-than-average usually of 1 hour. City-center in and out of San Francisco are
gas prices, which is well worth parking garages cost $15 to 55 mph to 70 mph (88 km/h to
doing if you know you’ll use $30 a day, and most accept 112 km/h). During rush hour,
at least a tank of gas. It is less cash or credit cards. cars with 3 or more occupants
expensive to rent a car at the Curbs are color-coded: red can use the carpool lane,
airport: rental taxes are $2 means stopping is prohibited; avoiding both traffic and tolls.
a day more in the city. yellow is loading zones; green Further east, north, and south,
allows 10 minutes’ parking, only two occupants are needed.
while white permits 5 minutes It is legal to drive in the carpool
Traffic Signs during business hours. Blue lane when it’s not rush hour, but
Colorful signs and symbols curbs are reser ved for the not to avoid the bridge tolls.
point the way to the main disabled. Some parking spaces Those caught using the carpool
tourist areas, such as are tow-away zones: check lane illegally face steep fines.
Chinatown (a lantern); signs for information. By law
Fisherman’s Wharf (a crab); you must curb your wheels DIRECTORY
North Beach (outline of Italy). when parking on steep hills.
“Stop” and “Do Not Enter” signs Turn wheels into the road Car Rental Agencies
are red and white. “Caution” when facing uphill and toward
Avis
the curb when facing downhill. Tel (1-800) 831-2847.
∑ avis.com
Penalties Hertz
If you park your car at an out- Tel (1-800) 704-4473.
∑ hertz.com
of-order meter, expect to get
a parking ticket. Blocking bus Useful Numbers
stops, fire hydrants, driveways,
garages, and wheelchair ramps Auto Return
will also incur a fine, as will 450 7th St.
running a red light. For details Map 11 B2.
of traffic regulations, contact Tel 865-8200.
the Department of Parking and Department of Parking
Transportation. If you receive a and Transportation
ticket, you are expected to pay Tel 553-1631.
the fine or appear in court.
Police Department Towed
After five parking tickets, a
Vehicle Information
“Denver Boot” may be clamped Tel 865-8200.
Driving across the city’s landmark, the to the wheel, immobilizing the
Golden Gate Bridge (see pp64–7) car. This is removed when the
GeTTinG Around SAn FrAnciSco  289
San Francisco’s Taxis have all your belongings before

you get out. If you have left
Taxis in San Francisco operate 24 hours a day. Taxis can be something in a cab, call the cab
hard to find, especially in the outer areas, but the drivers are company and give them the
generally helpful and friendly. Many drivers are veterans cab number or driver’s name.
eager to share their knowledge of the streets. Taxis are
licensed and regulated, so you can always expect courtesy, Fares
efficient service, and a set price. The guidelines below will Fares are posted inside the
help you find a taxi, get an idea of the fare, and understand cab. There is a flat fee (around
the regulations. $3.50) for the first mile (1.6
km). This increases by about
When you request a pickup, $2.25 for each additional mile
give your exact address and (1.6 km), or 45 cents a minute
name. You are expected to while waiting outside an
meet the cab on the street, but address or in traffic delays.
the dispatcher will typically call The average fare from San
with an automated message Francisco airport to the city
when the driver is outside. If center is $45. Fares from the
you wait more than 15 minutes, Ferry Building to the west
call again. Requests for cabs to coast ocean beaches are
the airport usually get a quick about $30. These fares are
response. Passengers ride in estimates only, and they do
the back seat, which may or not include any additional
may not have seat belts. The charges such as time spent
meter is on the dashboard. waiting in heavy traffic, or a
Note the company and cab tip for the driver.
number or the driver’s name
Inside a Green Cab with a hybrid and number. Tell the driver
engine (see p280) your destination and the cross- Regulations
street, if possible. The driver Taxi drivers must carry
should get you there in the with them photographic
Taking a Taxi shortest amount of time. Traffic identification and a permit
Cabs have a rooftop sign congestion can slow the best to drive a taxi, called a
that is illuminated when the drivers down, so it may be medallion. Following
vehicle is vacant. The various better to pay the fare, get out, legislation in 2010, all taxi
company liveries are red, white, and walk the final few blocks. cabs are now non-smoking.
and blue; yellow; yellow and Taxi drivers do not carry much If you need to complain about
orange; and green. All taxis cash, so be prepared to pay by a taxi driver, call the Police
display the company name credit card, or with bills of $20 Department Taxicab
and telephone number, plus or smaller. Add a 10 to 15 Complaint Line.
the cab number. percent tip and hand it to the
To catch a cab, wait at a taxi driver before you get out of DIRECTORY
stand, call and request a pick- the cab. The driver will write a
up, or try to hail a vacant cab. receipt on request. Check you Taxi Companies
Driver Company Official taxi Company phone Big Dog City Cab
number name license number Tel 920-0700.
De Soto Cab
Tel (877) 691-2170.
Green Cab
Tel 626-4733.
Luxor Cab
Tel 282-4141.
Yellow Cab
Tel 333-3333.
Information
Police Department Taxicab
Complaint Line
Tel 701-4400.
A San Francisco taxi in yellow livery

Street finder
The map references given with all sights, the Street Finder only. This includes the
restaurants, hotels, shops, and entertain sightseeing areas (which are colorcoded) as
ment venues described in this book refer well as the whole of central San Francisco,
to the maps in this section. A complete with the main districts where restaurants,
index of the street names and all the hotels, and entertainment sites are located.
places of interest marked on the maps Because the city center is so packed with
follows on pages 301–8. The key map below sights, there is a largescale map of this area
shows the area of San Francisco covered by on pages 5 and 6.
Key to Street Finder

Major sight
Places of interest
Other building
CalTrain station
Pacific
Pacific
BART station Heights
Heights
and and
the the
Bus terminal Presidio
Presidio Marina
Marina
Streetcar station
Cable-car terminal
Ferry boarding point
CivicCivic Center
Center
Tourist information office
Hospital with emergency unit Golden
Golden GateGate
ParkPark
and and Land's
Land's End End
Police station
Church
Synagogue
Haight
Haight Ashbury
Ashbury
Mosque and and the Mission
the Mission
Buddhist temple
Hindu temple
Golf course
Railroad line
Freeway
Pedestrian street
Cable-car line
Scale of Maps
1–4 and 7–11 P AP CA I CF II FC I C
0 meters 500
O CO EC AE NA N
0 yards 500
Scale of Maps 5 & 6

JA
0 meters 500 LandLand
's 's P
End End B
0 yards 500
L LI N
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C A C
M IA M I
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ROCHAMBEAU << 5300<< 5300
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34TH
35TH
35TH
36TH
36TH
37TH
37TH
38TH
38TH
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39TH
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15TH
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16TH
16TH
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17TH
18TH
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19TH
19TH
20TH
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22ND
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street finder  301
T
T T
Street Finder Index

E E
E E
R R
ST ST
T
T
EE
EE
40th Avenue 7 B1
R
R
19th Street 9 C3
ST
3 A4
ST
3rd Avenue
G
G
continues 11 A4 41st Avenue 7 B1

IN
IN
continues 9 A1
K
K
3rd Street 5 C5 20th Avenue 2 E5 42nd Avenue 7 B1

2nd &2nd & continues 8 E1
KingKing continues 11 D2 43rd Avenue 7 B1
4th Avenue 3 A4 20th Street 10 D3 44th Avenue 7 B1
AT &AT
T &T continues 9 A1 continues 11 A4 45th Avenue 7 B1
ParkPark 21st Avenue 2 E5
4th Street 5 C5 46th Avenue 7 B1
ST
BASINBASIN
CHINACHINA ST continues 11 B1 continues 8 E1 47th Avenue 7 B1
5th Avenue 3 A4 21st Street 10 D3 48th Avenue 7 A1
continues 9 A1 continues 11 A4
5th Street 11 B1 22nd Avenue 2 E5 A
3 R D
6th Avenue 3 A4 continues 8 E1

22nd Street 10 D4 Abbey Street 10 E2
continues 9 A1
K
OC OC
K
continues 11 A4 Access Road 9 C5
NR NR
SIO SIO 6th Street 11 A1
MIS MIS Acorn Alley 5 A4
ST ST
7th Avenue 3 A4 22nd Street
Mission
Mission
continues 9 A1 Station 11 C4 Ada Court 5 A5
ockRock
7th Street 11 A1 23rd Avenue 2 E5 Adair Street 10 F2
8th Avenue 2 F5 continues 8 E1 Adolph Sutro
UCSFUCSF
Mission
Mission Bay Bay 8th Avenue 3 A4 23rd Street 10 D4 Street 9 B3
continues 8 F1 continues 11 A5 Aerial Way 8 F5
continues 9 A2 24th Avenue 2 D5 Agua Way 9 B5
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
ILLINOIS
ILLINOIS
8th Street 11 A1 continues 8 D1 Ahlers Court 4 D2

9th Avenue 2 F5 24th Street 10 D4 Alabama Street 11 A4
continues 8 F1 continues 11 A5 Aladdin Terrace 5 B2
continues 9 A4 24th Street Alameda Street 11 B3
<< 800<< 800
STREET
STREET
9th Street 11 A2 Mission Station 10 F4 Alamo Square 4 D5

1900 >>
1900 >>
10th Avenue 2 F5 25th Avenue 2 D4 continues 10 D1

continues 8 F1 continues 8 D1 Albion Street 10 E2
Mariposa
Mariposa 10th Street 10 F1 25th Avenue Alcatraz Island 6 F1
<< 400<< 400 continues 11 A2 North 2 D4 Alert Alley 10 E2
11th Avenue 2 F5 25th Street 10 D4 Alhambra Street 4 D2
continues 8 F1 continues 11 A5 Allen Street 3 B1
TEET
S T R SE TE R
11th Street 10 F1 26th Avenue 2 D4 Allen Street 4 F2
12th Avenue 2 F5 continues 8 D1 continues 5 A3
TEET
T R SE TE R continues 8 F1 26th Street 10 D4 Allyne Park 4 E2
20th 20th
St St 12th Street 10 F1 continues 11 A5
Alma Street 9 B2
14th Avenue 2 F5 27th Avenue 2 D4
S T RSETERTE E T Almaden Court 3 B5
continues 8 F1 continues 8 D1
Aloha Avenue 8 F4
14th Street 10 D2 27th Street 10 D5
T E N>>
TENNESS
2600 >>
2600
Alpine Terrace 10 D1
15th Avenue 2 F5 28th Avenue 2 D5
NESSEE
Alta Mar Way 7 B1

continues 8 F1 continues 8 D1
Alta Plaza 4 D3
EE
STRE ET
STRE ET
2ND22ND 15th Street 10 D2 28th Street 10 D5
Alton Avenue 9 A4
continues 11 A3 29th Avenue 2 D5
STREET
STREET
Alvarado Street 9 C4
3RD
3R
16th Avenue 2 E5 continues 8 D1

Amatury Loop 2 F3
D
TUBBSTUBBS continues 8 E1 29th Street 10 D5

ST ST Amber Drive 9 C5
23rd 23rd
St St 16th Street 10 E2 30th Avenue 2 D5
2 3SRTD S T
23RD continues 8 D1 American Indian
continues 11 A3
Contemporary
STREET
STREET
16th Street 30th Street 10 D5

M I N N E S O TA
Mission Station 10 F2 31st Avenue 2 D5 Arts Gallery 5 C5

17th Avenue 2 E5 continues 8 D1 Ames Street 10 E3
TA
continues 8 E1 32nd Avenue 1 C5 Amethyst Way 9 C5

ST
5 T H2 5 HESETTR E E T
TR
17th Street 9 B3 continues 7 C1 Amtrak Terminal
continues 11 B3 33rd Avenue 7 C1 Ticket Office 6 D4
6 T H2 6 STTH ST 18th Avenue 2 E5 34th Avenue 7 C1 Angelo Rossi
STREET
STREET
continues 8 E1 35th Avenue 7 C1 Playground 3 B5

3000 >>
3000 >>
0
18th Street 9 C3 36th Avenue 7 C1 Anglo Alley 8 E5
continues 11 A4 37th Avenue 7 C1 Annapolis Terrace 3 C5
19th Avenue 2 E5 38th Avenue 7 C1 Antonio Street 5 B5
MASTR
MA RIN STR EET
RINEET
continues 8 E1 39th Avenue 7 C1 Anza Street 3 A2
302  street finder
Anza Street 3 A5 Beideman Street 4 D5 Buffalo Paddock 7 C2 Chattanooga Street 10 E3

continues 7 B1 Belcher Street 10 E1 Burnett Avenue 9 C3 Chaves Avenue 9 B5
Anza Vista Avenue 3 C5 Belgrave Avenue 9 B3 Bush Street 3 C4 Chenery Street 10 E5
Appleton Street 2 F3 Bell Road 2 F2 continues 5 A4 Cherry Street 3 B4
Aquavista Way 9 B4 Bellair Place 5 B2 Chestnut Street 3 C2
Argonne Belles Street 2 F4 C continues 5 A2
Playground 8 E1 Belmont Avenue 9 B2 Child Street 5 C2
Cable Car Barn 5 B3
Arguello Boulevard 3 A3 Belvedere Street 9 B1 Children’s Playground 9 A1
Cabrillo Playground 7 C2
continues 9 A2 Bergen Place 4 F1 China Basin Street 11 D1
Cabrillo Street 7 B2
Arguello Park 3 A5 continues 5 A2 Chinatown Alleys 5 B3
continues 9 A1
Arkansas Street 11 C4 Bernal Heights Chinatown Gateway 5 C4
Calhoun Terrace 5 C2
Armistead Road 2 F2 Park 10 F5 Chinese Historical
California Academy
Ashbury Street 9 C1 Bernard Street 5 A3 Society 5 C3
of Sciences 8 F2
Ashbury Terrace 9 C2 Bernice Street 11 A2 Christmas Tree
California Street 2 D5
Asian Art Museum 8 F2 Berry Street 11 B2 Point Road 9 C3
continues 3 A4
Auburn Street 5 B3 Beulah Street 9 B2 Christopher Drive 9 A4
continues 5 A4
Austin Street 4 E4 Bigger Avenue 9 B3 Chula Lane 10 E2
Caltrain Depot 11 C1
Avery Street 4 D4 Bill Graham Civic Church of Saint Mary
Cameo Way 9 C5
Avila Street 4 D1 Auditorium 4 F5 the Virgin 4 D3
Camp Street 10 E2
Aztec Street 10 F5 Billy Goat Hill 10 D5 Church Station 10 E2
Campton Place 5 C4
Birch Street 4 E5 Canby Street 3 B2 Church Street 10 E1
B Birmingham Road 3 B2 Capp Street 10 F3 Churchill Street 5 B3
Baker Beach 2 D4 Black Place 4 F2 Capra Way 4 D2 Circle Gallery 5 C4
Baker Street 3 C2 continues 5 A3 Carl Street 9 B2 City Hall 4 F5
continues 9 C1 Blake Street 3 B4 Carmel Street 9 B3 Cityview Way 9 B4
Balboa Street 3 A5 Blanche Street 10 E4 Carmelita Street 10 D1 Civic Center
continues 7 B1 Bliss Road 3 A2 Carnaval Mural 10 F4 Station 11 A1
Balceta Avenue 9 A5 Bluxome Street 11 B2 Carnelian Way 9 C4 Clairview Court 9 B4
Balmy Street 11 A5 Boardman Place 11 B2 Carolina Street 11 B4 Clara Street 11 B1
Bank of America 5 C4 Bocce Ball Courts 5 B2 Casa Way 4 D1 Claredon Avenue 9 A4
Bank of California 5 C4 Bonita Street 4 F2 Cascade Walk 8 F4 Claremont
Bank of Canton 5 C3 Bonview Street 10 F5 Caselli Avenue 9 C3 Boulevard 9 A5
Bank Street 3 B2 Bowley Street 2 E4 Castenada Avenue 8 F5 Clarion Alley 10 F2
Bannam Place 5 C2 Bowling Green continues 9 A5 Clark Street 3 B3
Barcelona Avenue 3 C5 Drive 9 A1 Castle Street 5 C2 Clarke’s Folly 10 D3
Barnard Avenue 3 B3 Bowman Road 2 E2 Castro Street 10 D1 Claude Lane 5 C4
Bartlett Street 10 F3 Brannan Street 6 E5 Castro Street Clay Street 3 B4
Bartol Street 5 C3 continues 11 C1 Station 10 D2 continues 5 A4
Battery Blaney Bret Harte Terrace 4 F1 Castro Theater 10 D2 Clayton Street 9 B1
Road 3 A2 continues 5 A2 Cecila Avenue 8 F5 Cleary Court 4 E4
Battery Caulfield Broadway 3 C3 Cedar Street 4 F4 Clement Street 1 C5
Road 2 E4 continues 5 A3 continues 5 A5 continues 3 A5
Battery Chamberlin Broadway Tunnel 4 F3 Central Avenue 9 C1 Clementina Street 6 D5
Road 2 D4 continues 5 A3 Central Freeway 10 F1 continues 11 A2
Battery Dynamite Broderick Street 3 C2 continues 11 A2 Cliff House 7 A1
Road 2 E3 continues 10 D1 Central Magazine Clifford Terrace 9 C2
Battery East Road 2 E2 Bromley Place 4 D3 Road 2 E3 Clinton Park Street 10 E1
Battery Saffold Brooks Street 2 E4 Central Place 11 C1 Clipper Street 9 C5
Road 2 E3 Brosnan Street 10 E2 Cervantes Club Fugazi 5 B3
Battery Street 5 C2 Brown Street 2 F4 Boulevard 4 D1 Clyde Street 11 C1
Battery Wagner Bryant Street 6 E5 Cesar Chavez Codman Place 5 B3
Road 2 F2 continues 11 A2 Street 10 D5 Cohen Place 5 B5
Bay Street 3 C2 Buchanan Street 4 D1 continues 11 A5 Coit Tower 5 C2
continues 5 A2 continues 10 E1 Chabot Terrace 3 B5 Cole Street 9 B1
Beach Street 3 C2 Buena Vista Avenue Chain of Lakes 7 B2 Coleridge Street 10 F5
continues 5 A1 East 9 C2 Chain of Lakes Colin P. Kelly
Beacon Street 10 D5 Buena Vista Avenue Drive East 7 B2 Junior Street 11 C1
Beale Street 6 D4 West 9 C2 Chain of Lakes Collingwood
Beaumont Avenue 3 B5 Buena Vista Park 9 C1 Drive West 7 B2 Street 10 D3
Beaver Street 10 D2 Buena Vista Channel Street 11 B3 Collins Street 3 B4
Behr Avenue 9 B3 Terrace 10 D2 Charlton Court 4 E2 Colton Street 10 F1
Columbarium 3 B5 Delmar Street 9 C2 Embarcadero Fortuna Avenue 3 C5

Columbia Square Delvale Drive 9 B5 North Street 5 A1 Fortune Cookie
Street 11 B1 Deming Street 9 C3 Embarcadero Factory 5 C3
Columbus Avenue 5 A2 Dent Road 2 F3 Plaza Park 6 D3 Fountain Street 9 C4
Comerford Street 10 E5 Devonshire Way 9 A4 Embarcadero Fowler Avenue 9 B5
Commonwealth Dewey Boulevard 9 A5 Station 6 D4 Fraenkel Gallery 5 C5
Avenue 3 B4 Dewitt Road 3 C2 Emerson Street 3 C4 Francisco Street 3 C2
Compton Road 2 E4 Diamond Heights 9 C5 Encanto Avenue 3 C5 continues 5 A2
Concourse Drive 8 F2 Diamond Street 10 D3 Encline Crescent 9 C5 Franklin Square 11 A3
Connecticut Street 11 C3 Divisadero Street 3 C2 Erie Street 10 F1 Franklin Street 4 E1
Conservatory Drive 9 A1 continues 10 D1 Erkson Court 4 D4 Frederick Street 9 B2
Conservatory of Division Street 11 B2 Essex Street 6 D5 Freelon Street 11 C1
Flowers 9 A1 Dolores Park 10 E3 Euclid Avenue 3 B4 Fremont Street 6 D4
Convent of the Dolores Street 10 E2 Eugenia Avenue 10 F5 French Court 3 B2
Sacred Heart 4 D3 Dolores Terrace 10 E2 Eureka Place 4 F4 Fresno Street 5 C3
Cook Street 3 B5 Dorantes Avenue 9 A5 continues 5 A4 Friends of
Coolbrith Park 5 B3 Dore Street 11 A2 Eureka Playground 10 D3 Photography
Coral Road 11 B5 Doric Alley 5 B3 Eureka Street 10 D3 Gallery 5 C5
Corbett Avenue 9 C3 Dorland Street 10 E2 Evans Avenue 11 C5 continues 11 B1
Cordelia Street 5 B3 Douglas Street 10 D3 Evelyn Way 9 B5 Front Street 6 D2
Cornwall Street 3 A4 Douglass Ewing Terrace 3 C5 Fulton Playground 8 D2
Corona Heights Playground 10 D5 Exploratorium 6 D2 Fulton Street 4 E5
Fulton Street 7 B2
Park 10 D2 Douglass Street 10 D2
continues 9 A1
Corwin Street 9 C3 Dove Loop 2 E3
Cosmo Place 5 B5 Dow Place 6 D5 F Funston Avenue 2 F5
continues 8 F1
Coso Avenue 10 F5 Downey Street 9 C2 F. Norris Street 4 F4
Funston Avenue 3 B3
Coso Square 10 F5 Doyle Drive 3 A2 continues 5 A4
Cottage Row 4 D4 Drumm Street 6 D3 Fair Avenue 10 F5
Cowell Place 5 C3 Duboce Avenue 10 D1 Fair Oaks Street 10 E3
G
Cowles Street 2 F3 Duboce Park 10 D1 Fairmont Hotel 5 B4 Garcia Avenue 9 A5
Cragmont Avenue 8 F5 Duncan Street 9 C5 Fallon Place 5 B3 Garden Side Drive 9 C4
Cranston Road 2 E2 Dunnes Alley 5 C3 Fanning Way 8 F5 Garden Street 4 D4
Crestline Drive 9 C4 Dupont Farnsworth Lane 9 B2 Garfield Square 11 A5
Crestmont Drive 9 A3 Playground 2 D5 Farview Court 9 B3 Geary Boulevard 3 A5
Crissy Field 2 F2 Fell Street 9 B1 continues 7 A1
Crissy Field 3 A2 E Fern Street 4 E4 Geary Street 4 E4
Crocker Galleria 5 C4 continues 5 A5 continues 5 A5
Eagle Street 9 C3
Cross Over Drive 8 D2 Fernandez Street 3 B3 General Kennedy
Eaglemere Court 9 A3
Crown Terrace 9 C3 Ferry Building 6 E3 Avenue 3 B2
Eastman Street 4 F2
Cuesta Court 9 C4 Fielding Street 5 B2 Genoa Place 5 C2
continues 5 A3 Filbert Steps 5 C2 George Christopher
Cumberland
Eaton Place 5 B3 Filbert Street 3 C3 Playground 9 C5
Street 10 D3
Eddy Street 4 D5 continues 5 A2 George R. Moscone
Custom House
continues 5 A5 Fillmore Street 4 D1 Recreation Center 4 D2
Place 5 C3
Edgehill Way 9 A5 continues 10 E1 Germania Street 10 D1
Cypress Street 10 F4
Edgewood Avenue 9 B2 Finley Road 3 A4 Ghirardelli Square 4 F1
Edie Road 3 B2 First Street 6 D4 Gibbon Court 3 C3
D Edward Street 3 B5 Fisher Loop 3 A2 Gibson Road 2 D4
Daggett Street 11 C3 El Camino del Mar 1 B5 Flint Street 10 D2 Gilbert Street 11 B2
Dakota Street 11 C5 El Polin Loop 3 B3 Florence Street 5 B3 Girard Road 3 B2
Dale Place 11 A1 Elgin Park Street 10 E1 Florida Street 11 A3 Gladeview Way 9 B4
Danvers Street 9 C3 Elizabeth Street 10 D4 Fly Casting Pool 7 C2 Glen Canyon Park 9 C5
Davis Street 6 D3 Elk Glen Lake 8 E2 Folsom Street 6 D5 Glenbrook Avenue 9 B3
Dawnview Way 9 C4 Elkhart 6 E4 continues 10 F2 Glendale Street 9 C3
Day Street 10 D5 Ellis Street 4 D5 continues 11 A3 Glenview Drive 9 C4
De Boom Street 6 E5 continues 5 A5 Ford Street 10 D2 Glover Street 4 F3
De Haro Street 11 B3 Elm Street 4 F5 Forest Hill Station 9 A4 continues 5 A3
de Young Museum 8 F2 Elsie Street 10 F5 Forest Knolls Drive 9 B4 Gold Street 5 C3
Dearborn Street 10 E2 Embarcadero Fort Mason (Golden Golden Court 5 A4
Deems Road 3 A3 Center 6 D3 Gate National Golden Gate
Del Sur Avenue 9 B5 Embarcadero Recreation Area) 4 E1 Avenue 3 C5
Dellbrook Avenue 9 B3 Freeway 11 C3 Fort Point 2 E1 continues 11 A1
Golden Gate Hattie Street 9 C3 Iris Avenue 3 B4 Kezar Drive 9 A2

Bridge 2 E1 Havens Street 5 A3 Irving Street 7 B3 Kezar Stadium 9 B2
Golden Gate Bridge Hawthorne Street 6 D5 continues 9 A2 King Street 11 C2
Freeway 2 E2 Hayes Street 4 E5 Irwin Street 11 B3 Kirkham Street 7 B4
Golden Gate Park 7 C2 continues 9 B1 Isis Street 10 F1 continues 9 A3
Golden Gate Park Hays Street 2 E4 continues 11 A2 Kissling Street 10 F1
Golf Course 7 B2 Hayward continues 11 A2
Goldmine Drive 10 D5 Playground 4 E5
J
Kittredge Terrace 3 B5
Gorgas Avenue 3 B2 Heather Avenue 3 B4 J. Rolph Playground 11 B5 Knollview Way 9 B4
Goslinsky House 3 C3 Helen Street 5 A4 Jackson Park 11 B3 Kobbe Avenue 2 E3
Gough Street 4 E2 Hemlock Street 4 F4 Jackson Square Kong Chow Temple 5 B4
continues 10 F1 continues 5 A5 Historical District 5 C3 Koshland Park 10 E1
Grace Cathedral 5 B4 Henry Street 10 D2 Jackson Street 3 B4
Grace Street 10 F1 Hermann Street 10 E1 continues 5 A3 L
continues 11 A2 Hernandez Avenue 9 A5 James D. Phelan
Graham Street 3 B2 Hickory Street 10 E1 Beach State Park 2 D4 La Playa Street 7 A1
Grand View Avenue 9 C4 Hicks Road 3 A3 James Lick Freeway 11 B3 Lafayette Park 4 E3
Grand View Park 8 F4 Hidalgo Terrace 10 E2 James Lick Skyway 11 B2 Lafayette Street 10 F1
Grand View Terrace 9 C3 High Street 9 C4 Jansen Street 5 B2 Laguna Honda 9 A4
Grant Avenue 5 B1 Highway 1 2 F3 Japan Center 4 E4 Laguna Honda
Granville Way 9 A5 Hill Street 10 D3 Japanese Tea Boulevard 9 A3
Grattan Street 9 B2 Hillpoint Avenue 9 B2 Garden 8 F2 Laguna Honda
Gratten Playground 9 B2 Hillway Avenue 9 B2 Jason Court 5 C3 Hospital 9 B4
Graystone Terrace 9 C3 Hitchcock Street 2 E3 Jauss Street 3 B1 Laguna Street 4 E1
Great American Hobart Alley 5 B4 Java Street 9 C2 continues 10 E1
Music Hall 4 F4 Hodges Alley 5 C3 Jefferson Square 4 E5 Lake Street 2 D5
continues 5 A5 Hoff Street 10 F2 Jefferson Street 3 C2 continues 3 A4
Great Highway 7 A2 Hoffman Avenue 9 C4 continues 5 A1 Land’s End 1 B5
Green Street 3 C3 Hoffman Street 2 F2 Jersey Street 10 D4 Landers Street 10 E2
continues 5 A3 Holland Court 5 C5 Jessie Street 4 F5 Langdon Court 2 E2
Greenough Avenue 2 E3 continues 11 B1 continues 11 A1 Langton Street 11 A1
Greenview Court 9 B4 Hollis Street 4 E4 Jessie Street 10 F1 Lansing Street 6 D5
Greenwich Steps 5 C2 Holy Virgin John Beggruen Lapidge Street 10 F3
Greenwich Street 3 C2 Cathedral 8 D1 Gallery 5 C4 Larch Street 4 F5
continues 5 A2 Homestead Street 10 D4 John F. Kennedy Larkin Street 4 F2
Greyhound Bus Hooker Alley 5 B4 Drive 7 A2 continues 5 A2
Depot 6 D4 Hooper Street 11 B3 continues 9 A1 Laskie Street 11 A1
Grote Place 6 D5 Hopkins Avenue 9 C4 John McLaren Laurel Street 3 B4
Grove Street 4 E5 Horace Street 11 A5 Lodge 9 B1 Laussat Street 10 E1
continues 9 B1 Hotaling Place 5 C3 John Street 5 B3 Lawton Street 7 B4
Guerrero Street 10 E2 Howard Road 2 E5 Johnstone Drive 9 B3 Leavenworth Street 4 F2
Gump’s 5 C4 Howard Street 5 C5 Jones Street 4 F2 continues 5 A2
Guy Place 6 D5 continues 10 F1 continues 5 A2 Legion of Honor 1 C5
continues 11 A1 Jordan Avenue 3 B4 Legion of Honor
H Hubbell Street 11 C3 Juanita Way 9 B5 Drive 1 C5
Hugo Street 9 A2 Judah Street 7 B3 Leroy Place 5 A4
Haas Lilienthal
Hunter Road 2 E3 Julia Street 11 A1 Letterman Drive 3 B2
House 4 E3
Huntington Park 5 B4 Julian Avenue 10 F2 Levant Street 9 C2
Haight Street 9 B1
Hyatt Regency Julius Castle 5 C2 Levi’s Plaza 5 C2
Hall of Justice 11 B2
Hotel 6 D3 Julius Street 5 C2 Lexington Street 10 F3
Hallam Street 11 A2
Hyde Street 4 F2 Juniper Street 11 A2 Liberty Street 10 E3
Halleck Street 3 B2
continues 5 A2 Juri Commons 10 F4 Liggett Avenue 3 B3
Hamilton Street 2 F2
Hyde Street Pier 4 F1 Juri Street 10 F4 Lilac Street 10 F4
Hamlin Street 5 A3
Justin Herman Lily Pond 9 A1
Hampshire Street 11 A3
Hampton Place 6 D5
I Plaza 6 D3
Lily Street 10 E1
Hancock Street 10 D3 Icehouse Alley 5 C2 Linares Avenue 9 A4
Harriet Street 11 A1 Idora Avenue 9 A5
K Lincoln Boulevard 2 E5
Harrison Boulevard 2 E3 Illinois Lane 5 C3 Kansas Street 11 B3 continues 3 A2
Harrison Street 6 D5 Illinois Street 11 D3 Kearny Street 5 C1 Lincoln Park 1 B5
continues 11 A2 Indiana Street 11 C5 Kensington Way 9 A5 Lincoln Park Municipal
Hartford Street 10 D2 Infantry Terrace 3 A3 Keyes Avenue 3 B2 Golf Course 1 C5
Lincoln Way 7 B3 Mariposa Street 11 A3 Mission Cultural Noriega Street 7 B4

continues 9 A2 Maritime Plaza 6 D3 Center 10 F4 North Beach
Linda Street 10 E3 Mark Hopkins Inter- Mission Dolores 10 E2 Museum 5 B3
Linden Street 4 E5 Continenental Mission North Beach
Livingston Street 3 A2 Hotel 5 B4 Playground 10 F3 Playground 5 B2
Lloyd Lake 8 E2 Market Street 5 C5 Mission Rock North Lake
Lloyd Street 10 D1 continues 9 C4 Street 11 D2 Road 7 B2
Locksley Avenue 9 A3 continues 11 A1 Mission Street 5 C5 North Point Street 3 C2
Locust Street 3 B4 Mars Street 9 C3 continues 10 F1 North Point Street 5 A2
Lombard Street 3 B3 Marshall Street 3 B1 continues 11 A1 Northview Court 4 F1
continues 5 A2 Martin Luther King Mississippi Street 11 C3 Number One
Lomita Avenue 8 F4 Junior Drive 7 A3 Missouri Street 11 C3 Market Street 6 D3
Lone Mia Terrace 3 B5 continues 9 A2 Mistral Street 11 A4
Long Avenue 2 F2 Martinez Street 3 B2 Monroe Street 5 C4 O
Longview Court 9 B4 Montalvo Avenue 9 A5
Marvel Court 1 C5 O’Reilly Avenue 3 B2
Lopez Avenue 9 A5 Montclair Terrace 4 F2
Marview Way 9 B3 O’Shaughnessy
Loraine Court 3 B5 continues 5 A2
Marx Meadow Boulevard 9 B5
Louise M. Davies Montezuma Street 10 F5
Drive 8 D2 O’Farrell Street 3 C5
Symphony Hall 4 F5 Montgomery Street 3 A2
Mary Street 11 B1 O’Farrell Street 5 A5
Lovers Lane 3 B2 Montgomery Street 5 C2
Mason Street 3 A2 Oak Park Drive 9 A4
Lower Terrace 9 C2 Montgomery Street
Mason Street 5 B2 Oak Street 9 B1
Lower Vista Station 5 C4
Masonic Avenue 3 C4 Oakwood Street 10 E3
Terrace 9 C2 Moraga Street 7 B4
continues 9 C1 Ocean Beach 7 A2
Lucky Street 11 A5 Morage Avenue 3 A2
Mauldin Street 2 F2 Octagon House 4 E2
Lundeen Street 3 B1 Morrell Street 4 F3
Mayfair Drive 3 B4 Octavia Street 4 E2
Lundys Lane 10 F5 continues 5 A3
3 C4 McAllister Street 3 C5 Old Mason Street 3 A2
Lupine Avenue Morris Road 2 F3
Lurline Street 8 F3 continues 9 A1 Morton Street 3 B3 Old Saint Mary’s
Lurmont Terrace 5 A2 McArthur Avenue 4 E1 Moscone Convention Church 5 C4
Lusk Street 11 C1 McCoppin Street 10 F1 Center 6 D5 Old United States
Lynch Street 4 F3 McDowell Avenue 2 F3 continues 11 B1 Mint 5 C5
continues 5 A3 McKinley Square 11 B4 Moss Street 11 A1 continues 11 B1
Lyon Street 3 C2 McLaren Avenue 2 D5 Moulton Street 4 D2 Olive Street 4 F4
continues 9 C1 Meacham Place 5 A5 Mount Lane 8 F4 continues 5 A5
Mendosa Avenue 9 A4 Mount Sutro 9 A3 Olympia Way 9 B4
M Merced Avenue 9 A5 Mountain Lake 2 F4 Ora Way 10 D5
Merchant Road 2 E2 Mountain Lake Park 2 F5 Orange Alley 10 F4
MacArthur Avenue 3 B3 Orange Street 10 F4
Merchant Street 5 C3 Mountain Spring
Macondray Lane 4 F2 Ord Court 9 C2
Merchant’s Avenue 9 B3
continues 5 A3 Ord Street 9 C2
Exchange 5 C4 Mountview Court 9 B5
Macrae Street 3 B3 Ortega Street 7 B5
Mersey Street 10 E4 Mulford Alley 5 B4
Macy’s 5 C5
Mesa Avenue 9 A4 Municipal Pier 4 E1 Osage Alley 10 F4
Madera Street 11 C4
Mesa Street 3 B2 Museum of Osage Street 10 F4
Magellan Avenue 9 A5
Metson Lake 8 D2 Modern Art 6 D5 Osgood Place 5 C3
Magnolia Street 4 D2
Metson Road 7 C3 Museum Way 10 D2 Otis Street 10 F1
Main Street 6 D4
Midcrest Way 9 B5 Myrtle Street 4 F4 Overlook Drive 8 D2
Malden Alley 6 D5
Middle Drive East 9 A1 continues 5 A5 Owens Street 11 C2
Mallard Lakes 8 D3
Mallorca Way 4 D2 Middle Drive West 7 C3
Middle Street 4 D4 N P
Manzanita
Avenue 3 B4 Midtown Terrace NAMES Project, Pacheco Street 7 B5
Maple Street 3 B4 Recreation Center 9 B4 The 10 D2 continues 9 A4
Marcela Avenue 9 A4 Midway Street 5 B1 Natoma Street 10 F1 Pachelo Street 9 A5
Marietta Drive 9 B5 Miley Street 3 C3 continues 11 A1 Pacific Avenue 3 C3
Marin Street 11 B5 Miller Road 2 E2 Nauman Road 3 A3 continues 5 A3
Marina Boulevard 3 C1 Minna Street 5 C5 Neiman Marcus 5 C5 Pacific Coast
Marina Green 4 D1 continues 10 F1 Nellie Street 10 E4 Stock Exchange 5 C4
Marina Green continues 11 A1 Newburg Street 10 D5 Pacific Heritage
Drive 4 D1 Minnesota Street 11 C5 Newell Street 5 B2 Museum 5 C3
Marine Drive 2 E2 Mint Street 5 C5 Nido Avenue 3 C5 Pacific Telephone
continues 3 A2 continues 11 A1 Noe Street 10 D2 Building 6 D5
Marion Place 5 A2 Mirabel Avenue 10 F5 Norfolk Street 11 A2 Pacific Union Club 5 B4
Page Street 9 B1 Pier 47 4 F1 Ralston Avenue 2 E2 Saint Ignatius

Palace Drive 3 C2 continues 5 A1 Ramona Street 10 E2 Church 9 B1
Palace of Fine Arts 3 C2 Pierce Street 4 D2 Rausch Street 11 A1 Saint Joseph’s
Pali Road 11 B5 Pierce Street 10 D1 Rawles Street 3 C3 Avenue 3 C5
Palm Avenue 3 B4 Pine Street 3 C4 Raycliff Terrace 3 C3 Saint Mary’s
Palo Alto Avenue 9 B3 continues 5 A4 Recreation Cathedral 4 E4
Panhandle 9 C1 Pino Alley 7 C3 Grounds 9 A2 Saint Mary’s Square 5 C4
Panorama Drive 9 B4 Piper Loop 3 A3 Red Rock Way 9 C5 Saints Peter and
Pardee Alley 5 B2 Pixley Street 4 D2 Redwood Street 4 F5 Paul Church 5 B2
Park Boulevard 2 F3 Pleasant Street 5 B4 Reed Street 4 F3 Saks 5 C4
Park Hill Avenue 10 D2 Plum Street 10 F1 continues 5 A4 Sal Street 3 B2
Park Presidio Point Lobos Avenue 7 A1 Reservoir 9 B3 Salmon Street 5 B3
Boulevard 2 F5 Polk Street 4 F2 Reservoir 9 B5 San Bruno Avenue 11 B4
continues 8 F1 continues 5 A3 Reservoir Street 10 E2 San Carlos Street 10 F3
Park Presidio Polo Fields 7 C2 Retiro Way 4 D2 San Francisco Art
By Pass 8 E2 Pond Street 10 D2 Rhone Island Institute 4 F2
Parker Avenue 3 B4 Pope Street 2 E3 Street 11 B2 continues 5 A2
Parkridge Drive 9 C4 Poplar Street 10 F4 Richard Spreckels San Francisco Arts
Parnassus Avenue 9 B2 Portola Drive 9 B5 Mansion 9 C2 Commission
Parsons Street 9 B1 Portola Street 3 B3 Richardson Avenue 3 C2 Gallery 4 F5
Patten Road 3 A2 Post Street 3 C4 Richmond San Francisco
Pearce Street 2 F2 continues 5 A5 Playground 2 E5 Center 5 C5
Pearl Street 10 E1 Potomac Street 10 D1 Rico Way 4 D1 San Francisco
Pelton Alley 5 C3 Potrero Del Sok Riley Avenue 3 A2 General Hospital 11 B4
Pena Street 3 B2 Park 11 B5 Rincon Center 6 E4 San Francisco Main
Pennington Street 3 A2 Potrero Hill Rincon Street 6 E5 Library 4 F5
Pennsylvania Playground 11 C4 Ringold Street 11 A2 San Francisco
Avenue 11 C4 Potrero Avenue 11 A3 Ripley’s Believe It National Maritime
Perego Terrace 9 C4 Powell Street 5 B1 Or Not! Museum 4 F1 Museum 4 E1
Perine Place 4 D4 Powell Street Cable continues 5 A1 San Francisco
Pershing Drive 2 E4 Car Turntable 5 B5 Ritch Street 11 C1 National Military
Peter York Street 4 E4 Powell Street Station 5 C5 Rivera Street 7 C5 Cemetery 3 A2
Pfeiffer Street 5 B2 Powers Avenue 10 F5 Rivoli Street 9 B2 San Francisco New
Piedmont Street 9 C2 Powhatten Avenue 10 F5 Roach Street 5 B2 Public Library 4 F5
Pier 1 6 D3 Prado Street 3 C1 Rochambeau continues 11 A1
Pier 2 6 E3 Pratt Place 5 B4 Playground 2 D5 San Francisco
Pier 3 6 D3 Precita Avenue 10 F5 Rockaway Avenue 9 A5
Pier 5 6 D3 Oakland Bay
Prescott Court 5 C3 Rockdale Drive 9 B5
Pier 7 6 D2 Bridge 6 E4
Presidio Army Golf Rockridge Drive 8 F5
Pier 9 6 D2 Course 2 F4 San Francisco Visitors
Rod Road 2 F3 Information
Pier 15 6 D2 continues 3 A3 Rodgers Street 11 A2 Center 5 B5
Pier 17 6 D2 Presidio Avenue 3 C3 Rodriguez Street 3 B3 San Jose Avenue 10 F4
Pier 19 6 D2 Presidio Boulevard 3 B2 Romain Street 9 C3 San Marcos Avenue 9 A5
Pier 23 6 D2 Presidio Museum 3 B2
Rondel Place 10 F2 Sanches Street 3 B3
Pier 24 6 E4 Presidio Officers’
Roosevelt Way 9 C2 Sanches Street 3 B3
Pier 26 6 F4 Club 3 A2
Rose Street 10 E1 Sanchez Street 10 E1
Pier 27 6 D2 Presidio Terrace 3 A4
Roselyn Terrace 3 C5
Pier 28 6 F4 Priest Street 5 B4 Sansome Street 5 C2
Rossi Avenue 3 B5
Pier 29 5 C1 Prospect Avenue 10 F5 Santa Rita Avenue 9 A5
Ruckman Avenue 2 F3
Pier 30 6 F5 Prosper Street 10 D2 Saturn Street 9 C2
Ruger Street 3 C3
Pier 31 5 C1 Scenic Way 2 D4
Russ Street 11 A1
Pier 32 6 F5 Q Russian Hill Park 4 F2
Schofield Road 2 F3
Pier 33 5 C1 Scott Street 3 C2
Quane Street 10 E3 continues 5 A2
Pier 34 6 F5 continues 10 D1
Quarry Road 3 B3
Pier 35 5 C1 Sea Cliff Avenue 2 D5
Pier 36 6 E5
Queen Wilhelmina’s S Seal Rock Drive 7 A1
Tulip Gardens 7 A2
Pier 38 6 F5 Sacramento Street 3 B4 Seal Rocks 7 A1
Quintara Street 7 B5
Pier 39 5 B1 continues 5 A4 Seaview Terrace 2 D5
Pier 41 5 B1 Safira Lane 10 D5 Second Avenue 3 A4
Pier 43 5 B1
R Saint George Alley 5 C4 continues 9 A1
Pier 45 4 F1 Racoon Drive 9 C3 Saint Germain Second Street 6 D5
continues 5 A1 Radio Terrace 8 F5 Avenue 9 B3 Selma Way 8 F4
Sergeant John Stillman Street 6 D5 Transamerica Vedanta Temple 4 D2

McAuley Park 4 F4 continues 11 C1 Pyramid 5 C3 Vega Street 3 C5
continues 5 A5 Stillwell Road 2 E4 Transbay Terminal 6 D4 Venard Alley 5 B2
Sergeant Mitchell Stockton Street 5 B1 Transverse Drive 8 E2 Ventura Avenue 9 A4
Street 3 B1 Stockton Tunnel 5 C4 Treat Avenue 11 A3 Vermont Street 11 B3
Severn Street 10 E4 Stone Street 2 E2 Trenton Street 5B3 Veronica Place 6 D5
Seward Street 9 C3 Stone Street 5 B3 Trinity Street 5 C4 Veteran’s
Seymour Street 4 D5 Storey Avenue 2 E2 Troy Alley 4 F3 Building 4 F5
Shafter Road 3 B3 Stow Lake 8 E2 continues 5 A4 Vicksburg Street 10 E4
Shakespeare Stow Lake Drive 8 E2 Truby Street 3 C2 Villa Terrace 9 C3
Garden 8 F2 Strawberry Hill 8 E2 Tubbs Street 11 D4 Vinton Court 5 C4
Shannon Street 5 B5 Strybing Arboretum 8 F2 Turk Street 3 C5 Virgil Street 10 F4
Sharon Street 10 E2 Summer Avenue 3 B2 continues 5 B5 continues 11 A5
Sheldon Street 8 F4 Sumner Street 11 A1 continues 11 A1 Virginia Avenue 10 F5
Sheraton Palace Turquoise Way 9 C5
Sunset Boulevard 7 C4 Vision Gallery 11 A1
Hotel 5 C4 Twin Peaks 9 C4
Sunset Heights Park 8 F5 Vista Court 3 B3
Sheridan Avenue 3 A2 Twin Peaks
Sunset Playground 8 D4 Vista Lane 9 C4
Sheridan Street 11 A2 Boulevard 9 B4
Sunset Reservoir 8 D5
Sherman Road 3 B3
Sherman Street 11 B1
Sunview Drive 9 C5 Twin Peaks W
Sutro Heights Reservoir 9 B3
Shipley Street 11 B1 Waldo Alley 5 A3
Avenue 7 A1
Shore View Avenue 7 C1 Wallen Court 3 B3
Sutro Heights Park 7 A1 U
Short Street 9 C3 Waller Street 9 B2
Sutro Tower 9 B3 Ulloa Street 9 A5
Shotwell Street 10 F2 Walnut Street 3 C4
Sutter Street 3 C4 Union Square 5 C5
continues 11 A4 Walter Street 10 D1
Shrader Street 9 B1 continues 5 A5 Union Street 3 C3 War Memorial
Sibert Loop 3 A3 Sycamore Street 10 F2 continues 5 A3 Opera House 4 F5
Sibley Road 3 B3 University of Warner Place 5 A3
Sierra Street 11 C4 T California Medical Warren Drive 9 A3
Simonds Loop 3 B3 Taber Place 11 C1 Center 9 A2 Washburn Street 11 A2
Skyview Way 9 B4 Tamalpais Terrace 3 C5 University of Washington
Sola Avenue 9 A4 Tank Hill Park 9 C3 San Francisco 3 B5 Boulevard 2 E3
Sonoma Street 5 C2 Taylor Road 3 A2 Upper Noe continues 3 A3
Sotelo Avenue 9 A4 Taylor Street 4 F1 Recreation Washington Square 5 B2
South Park 11 C1 continues 5 A1 Center 10 E5 Washington Street 3 B4
South Van Ness Tea Garden Drive 8 F2 Upper Service continues 5 A4
Avenue 10 F1 Road 9 A3
Tehama Street 6 D5 Water Street 5 B2
Southard Place 4 F2 Upper Terrace 9 C2
continues 11 A2 Wave Organ 4 D1
continues 5 A2 Upton Avenue 2 F3
Telegraph Hill Park 5 C2 Wax Museum 5 B1
Southern Heights Uranus Terrace 9 C3
Temescal Terrace 3 B5 Wayne Place 5 B3
Avenue 11 B4 USS Pampanito 4 F1
Temple Emanu-El 3 A4 Webb Place 5 B3
Southern Pacific continues 5 A1
Temple Street 9 C2 Webster Street 4 D1
Railroad 11 C2 Utah Street 11 B3
Tennessee Street 11 D4 continues 10 E1
Spear Street 6 E4
Teresita Boulevard 9 B5 Wedemeyer Street 2 E4
Spreckels Lake 7 C2 V
Terra Vista Avenue 3 C5 Wells Fargo
Spreckels Lake
Texas Street 11 C5 Valencia Street 10 F2 History Room 5 C4
Drive 7 C2
Spreckels Mansion 4 E3 The Cannery 4 F1 Vallejo Street 3 B2 Welsh Street 11 C1
Spruce Street 3 B4 continues 5 A1 Vallejo Street 4 D3 West Broadway 3 C3
Stanford Street 11 C1 The Embarcadero 5 C1 continues 5 A3 West Clay Street 2 D5
Stanyan Street 3 B5 Thomas Avenue 3 A3 Vallejo Street West Pacific
continues 9 B1 Thornburg Road 3 B2 Stairway 5 B3 Avenue 3 A4
Starr King Way 4 F4 Tiffany Avenue 10 F5 Valley Street 10 D5 West Sunset
Starview Way 9 B4 Tin How Temple 5 C3 Valparaiso Street 5 B2 Playground 7 C5
States Street 9 C2 Toledo Way 4 D2 Van Ness Avenue 4 E1 Westin Saint
Steiner Street 4 D4 Topaz Way 10 D5 continues 5 A5 Francis Hotel 5 B5
continues 10 D1 Torney Avenue 3 B2 Van Ness Station 10 F1 Wetmore Street 5 B3
Steuart Street 6 E4 Townsend Street 11 B2 Vandewater Street 5 B2 White Street 5 A3
Steveloe Place 5 B5 Tracy Place 5 B3 Varennes Street 5 C2 Whiting Street 5 C2
Stevenson Street 6 D4 Trainor Street 10 F1 Varney Place 11 C1 Wiese Street 10 F2
continues 11 A1 continues 11 A3 Vasquez Avenue 9 A5 Willard Street 9 B2
Willard Street North 3 B5 Woodhaven Court 9 B3 Y Z

Willow Street 4 F5 Woodland Avenue 9 B2
Yacht Road 3 C1 Zeno Place 6 E4
continues 5 A5 Woodside Avenue 9 A5 Zoe Street 11 C1
Wilmot Street 4 D4 Woodward Street 10 F1 Yerba Buena
Winfield Street 10 F5 Wool Court 2 F3 Gardens 5 C5
Winn Way 3 C2 World Trade Center 6 E3
York Street 11 A4
Winthrop Street 5 C2 Worth Street 10 D4
Wisconsin Street 11 B4 Wright Loop 2 F3 Young Street 3 B2
Wood Street 3 C4 Wyman Avenue 2 F5 Yukon Street 9 C3
general index  309
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to main Alvarado, Juan Batista 26, 27 Bars 258–9
entries. Ambulances 270 BART 286
American Civil Liberties Union 44 Baseball 34, 35, 51, 260, 261
3Com Park 35 American Conservatory Theater (ACT) opening day of season 50
4th of July Fireworks 51 118, 251 Basketball 260, 261
17-Mile Drive 189 Anderson Valley 191 BATS Improv at the Bayfront Theater 75
49-Mile Scenic Drive 56–7 Angel Island 83, 163 Battery Chamberlin (Baker Beach) 62
92 Chaise (Holt Hinshaw Pfau Jones) Anglin, John and Clarence 85 Bay Area
122 Ano Nuevo State Park 188 earthquakes 20–21
450 Sutter Street 49 Antique shops 234, 235, 236, 237 map 16–17
503 Law Office 142 international antiques 242, 243 Bay Area Discovery Museum (Sausalito)
555 California 110, 113 Anza, Juan de 25 262, 263
710-20 Steiner Street 131 Apartments, furnished 211 Bay Area Rapid Transit see BART
818 Steiner Street 77 Apple Cider Press (Shields-Clarke) 147 Bay Area Tradition-style 182
850 Steiner Street 77 Apple Computer 34 Bay Bridge 14, 33, 166–7
1015 Steiner Street 77 Applegarth, George 72, 158 Bay Model (Sausalito) 163
1111 Oak Street 76 Aquariums Bay to Breakers 50
1220 Masonic Avenue 135 Aquarium of the Bay 86 Bay trips 287
1360 Montgomery Street 91 Monterey Bay Aquarium 189 “Be-ins” 34, 155
1715-1717 Capp Street 77 Steinhart Aquarium 152, 153 Beach Blanket Babylon 89, 251
1906 earthquake and fire 20, 21, 23, Aquatic Park 173, 263 Beaches
30–31 walk 174–5 Baker Beach 60, 62
1913 Sacramento Street 76 Architecture Crissy Field 11, 61, 62, 263
1989 earthquake 20, 21, 34, 35 earthquake protection 113 Gray Whale Cove 188
2004 Gough Street 71 Napa Valley Wine Country 194–5 Johnson’s Beach (Guerneville) 190
2007 earthquake 35 San Francisco Museum of Modern Manchester State Beach 191
2151 Sacramento Street 71 Art 122–3 Montara 188
2931 Pierce Street 77 San Francisco’s best 46–9 Muir Beach 162–3
Victorian houses in San Francisco Natural Bridges State Beach 188
A 76–7 Ocean Beach 11, 13, 155
Abbott, Berenice 123 see also individual styles Point Reyes National Seashore 24,
Abstract Expressionism 122 Arp, Jean 122 162, 190
Accessories shops 238–41 Art, Art, Old and New 10 Rodeo Beach 176
Accommodations 208–15 Art galleries Stinson Beach 162, 190
AcroSports 263 commercial 242, 243 Bear Flag Revolt 27
Adams, Ansel 123, 194 see also Museums and galleries “Beat” movement 34, 88
Adams, John 252 Artesa Winery (Napa Valley) 194 North Beach Beat Museum 89
Adler Alley 88 Arts and Crafts style 46, 48, 74, 182 Beaulieu Vineyard (Napa Valley) 192,
Admission charges 266–7 Asawa, Ruth 130 194
A.F. Morrison Memorial Library (UC Aschenbach Foundation 158 Beaux Arts style 46, 48, 49
Berkeley) 178 Asian Art Museum 10, 39, 40, 127, 128 Civic Center 125, 126, 128, 129
African Hall (California Academy of architecture 49 Russian Hill 182
Sciences) 152 shop 237 Spreckels Mansion 72
African-Americans 43 Asian food 218–19 Beckman, Max 122
Museum of the African Diaspora 115, AT&T Park 11, 35, 50, 51, 247, 260, 261 Bed and breakfast 208–9, 212
180 ATMs 272 Beer 191, 221
Ahwahnee, hotels 213 August Fashion Week 238 bars 258, 259
Ahwahnee Hotel (Yosemite National Avalon Ballroom 131 Belluschi, Pietro 130
Park) 202, 205 Ayala, Juan Manuel de 25, 85 Benton, Fletcher, ’M’ sculpture 40
AIDS/HIV 34, 44, 45 Ayala Cove (Angel Island) 163 Bercut Equitation Field (Golden Gate
AIDS Candlelight Vigil 45 AYPAL (Asian Pacific Islander Youth Park) 155
AIDS Walk San Francisco 45 Promoting Advocacy), Stop the Beringer Vineyards (Napa Valley) 192,
Air travel 276–7, 279 Violence 142 194
Airport transfers 277, 279 Berkeley 161, 164–5
Alamo Square 12, 13, 48, 131, 137 B campus walk 178–9
Alcatraz Island 37, 82–5, 263 Babysitters 262, 263 hotels 212, 215
famous inmates 85 Backstage tours 253 restaurants and cafés 229
as film location 250 Badger Pass 205, 260, 261 Berkley Art Museum 40, 164, 179
inside Alcatraz 84–5 Baker, Edward 28 Bernhardt, Sarah 115
itineraries 11, 12, 13 Baker Beach 60, 62 Bicycling see Cycling
timeline 85 SS Balclutha 75, 87 Bierce, Ambrose 136
visitors’ checklist 83 Ballet 53, 248, 252–3 Big Brother and the Holding Company
Alcatraz Pier 83 Balloon Journey (Precita Eyes) 142 131
Alexander Book Company 180 Balmy Alley mural 140, 142, 143 “Big Four” 28, 97, 104
Alice Street Community Gardens 181 Bancroft Library (UC Berkeley) 178 The Big Game 52
Alpine Meadows 199, 260, 261 Bank of America 113 Big Sur, hotels 215
Alta Plaza 70, 73, 250 Banks 272, 273 Bill Graham Civic Auditorium 49, 127,
Altimira, Father José 196, 197 Barbary Coast 23, 28, 29, 112 128
310  general index
Bird Island 176–7 Cable cars (cont.) Castro District (cont.)

The Birdman of Alcatraz (film) 85, 250 Cable Car Museum 105 hotels 212, 214
The Birds (film) 190, 250 history 28 restaurants 225–6
Birdwatching how cable cars work 106 shopping 238–9
Lake Merritt 166 Powell Street Cable Car Turntable tours 281
Marin Headlands 176–7 119 Castro Street 138
Moss Landing 188 souvenirs 236, 237 Castro Street Fair 44, 45, 52
Seal Rocks 155 tours 281 Castro Theater 13, 138, 250, 251
Bishoff, Elmer 123 traveling by 284–5 Cathedrals see Churches and
Black Bart 112 Cabrilho, João 23, 24 cathedrals
Black History Month 53 Cafés 230 Cave, Tsankawee, Mexico (Connor) 123
Black Panthers 34 see also Restaurants and cafés Cell block (Alcatraz) 82
Black Point 175 Caffè Trieste 89, 230 Cell phones 274, 275
Bliss, William Danforth 201 Cakebread Cellars (Napa Valley) 194 Central Pacific Railroad 29, 104
“Bloody Thursday” (1934) 33 Calendar of events 50–53 Cervantes, Miguel de, bust of 147
Bloomingdale’s 119, 233 California Academy of Sciences 37, 38, Cha Cha Cha 134, 136, 225
Blues 255 147, 152–3 Chagall, Marc 165
Blumenthal Library (Berkeley) 165 Academy Store 236–7 Chain hotels 208
Boardwalk (Santa Cruz) 188 exhibits 25, 41 Chateau Montelena Winery (Napa
Boating 260, 261 itineraries 12, 13 Valley) 194
Bay trips 81, 287 visitors’ checklist 153 Château St Jean (Sonoma Valley) 197
Bobcat Trail 177 California Art, Gallery of (Oakland Chateau Tivoli 76, 208, 211, 212
Bocce Ball Courts 92, 174 Museum of California) 168 Cherry Blossom Festival 50, 130
Bodega Bay 190, 250 California Arts (SFMOMA) 121, 123 Chestnut Street 75
Boles, Charles 112 California Coast Tank (California Chez Panisse (Berkeley) 164
Bookstores 242, 243 Academy of Sciences) 153 Children 262–3
Boonville 191 California cuisine 218 activities 262–3
hotels 212 California Golden Bears 52 clothes shops 240, 241
restaurants 229 California Hall (UC Berkeley) 173, 178 discounts 266
Botta, Mario 49, 120, 180 California Historical Society 40, 115, hotels 210
Boudin Sourdough Bakery 81 180 Just for Kids 10
Bourne II, William 171 California History, Gallery of (Oakland restaurants and cafés 217
Boutique hotels 212–13 Museum of California) 168 traveling with 268, 269
Brady, Colonel William 93 California Marine Mammal Center 177, Children’s Creativity Museum 116, 262,
Brancusi, Constantin 122 262 263
Brannan, Sam 26, 102 California Midwinter Fair 147, 148, 149 Children’s Discovery Museum (San
Braque, Georges 122 California State Capitol (Sacramento) José) 171
Breakfast 231 197 Children’s Playground (Golden Gate
Breweries 191 California State Railroad Museum Park) 149
Bridalveil Fall (Yosemite National Park) (Sacramento) 197 Chinatown 30, 42, 96–102
205 California Street 111, 113 as film location 250
Broadway 88 California Welcome Center 247 itineraries 11, 12, 13
Broadway (Alcatraz) 84 Calistoga 192, 195 shopping 235
Brocklehurst, Charles 112 Cambodian community 43 street-by-street 98–9
Brown, Arthur 49, 63, 92, 129 Camera Obscura (Sutro Heights Park) tours 281
Brown, Joan 123 159 see also Chinatown and Nobb Hill
Brown, Willie 35 Campus, Peter 123 Chinatown Alleys 98, 101
Budget travel 268, 269 Candlestick Park see 3Com Park Chinatown Gateway 99, 100
accommodations 210, 211, 214, 268 Canneries (Monterey) 189 Chinatown and Nob Hill 96–105
dining 216 The Cannery 80, 87, 233 area map 97
Buena Vista Park 135, 137 Capone, Al 85 hotels 212–15
Buena Vista Winery (Sonoma Valley) Car travel restaurants and cafés 222–3
197 arriving by car 278, 279 Chinese community 42, 63, 79, 96–102
Bufano, Beniamino 194 car rental 288 Oakland 167
Buffalo Paddock (Golden Gate Park) driving in San Francisco 288 Chinese Cultural Center 99
155 Carmel 189 Chinese food 218–19
Bumpass Hell (Lassen Volcanic National A Two Day Tour to Carmel 188–9 Chinese Historical Society of America
Park) 196 Carnaval Mural 140, 142 39, 41, 98, 102
Bureaux de change 272, 273 Carnaval SF 50, 140 Chinese New Year Parade 53
Burnham, Daniel 30 Carneros wine-growing region 197 Ching, Daniel 102
Burton, Phillip, statue 175 Carnes, Clarence 85 Chocolate 87, 263
Bus travel Carpool lanes 288 Choris, Ludovic, Dance at Mission
arriving by long-distance bus 278–9 Cartoon Art Museum 180 Dolores 24–5
getting around San Francisco 282–3 Caruso, Enrico 115 Christ Scientist, Church of 48
tours 281 Casino building 174 Christmas 53
Butterflies 189 Casinos (Lake Tahoe) 198, 201 Churches and cathedrals
Casper, M. 39 Church of Christ Scientist 48
C Cassady, Neal 34 Church of St. Mary the Virgin 74
CA Thayer 87 Castello di Amorosa (Napa Valley) 195 First Unitarian Church 48
Cable cars 36, 37, 98, 106–7 Castro District 133, 138 Fisherman’s and Seaman’s Chapel
Cable Car Barn 106, 107, 284, 285 gay community 44, 45 80
Churches and cathedrals (cont.) Comedy 247, 248 de Kooning, Willem 122
Grace Cathedral 13, 53, 103, 105, 182, clubs 257 de La Tour, Georges, Old Woman 159
253 Commercial architecture 49 de Young Museum 13, 38, 40, 149
Holy Virgin Cathedral 43, 63 Communications 274–5 shop 237
Memorial Church (Stanford Computer stores 244, 245 Degas, Edgar, The Impresario 159
University) 171 Comstock Lode 28, 29, 104, 114, 201 Delis 231
Mormon Temple (Oakland) 166 Condor Club 88 DeMille, Cecil B. 92
Noe Valley Presbyterian Church 140 Connick, Charles 105 Dentists 271
Notre Dame des Victoires 49 Connor, Bruce 123 Department stores 233
Old St. Mary’s Cathedral 47, 99, 100, Connor, Linda, Cave, Tsankawee, Mexico Derain, André 122
253 123 Design
Russian Orthodox Chapel (Fort Ross) Conservatory of Flowers (Golden Gate museums 40
191 Park) 11, 154 San Francisco Museum of Modern
St. Boniface Church 49 Consulates 269 Art 122–3
St. Ignatius Church 131 Consumer rights and services 232 Designer wear 238, 239
St. Mary’s Cathedral 130 Contemporary architecture 49 Dewey, Admiral 118
St. Patrick’s Church 180 Contemporary Jewish Museum 35, 41, Di Maggio, Joe 92
St. Paulus Lutheran Church 49 49, 115, 180 Di Rosa Preserve (Napa Valley) 194
St. Stephen’s Episcopal Church 48 Contemporary music 252–3, 253 Dia de los Muertos 52, 140
Saints Peter and Paul Church 12, 13, Control Room (Alcatraz) 84 Dialing codes 274
90, 92 Convent of the Sacred Heart (Flood Diebenkorn, Richard 123
Trinity Episcopal Church 73 Mansion) 73 Ocean Park No: 107 168
Yosemite Chapel (Yosemite Village) Coolbirth Park 183 Dining Room (Alcatraz) 85
202 Coon, H.P. 148 Dinner cruises 287
see also Missions Corona Heights 137 Dinosaurs 153
Cinco de Mayo 50 Cottage Row 48, 130 Disabled travelers 268, 269
Cinemas 250, 251 Coulter, William 114 entertainment 247
City Hall 124, 127, 129 Council on Religion and the hotels 210
architecture 46, 49 Homosexual (CRH) 44 restaurants and cafés 217
itineraries 10, 12, 13 Country Dog Gentleman (De Forest) 121 Discounts
City Lights Bookstore 88 Country music 255 children 266
CityPASS 267 Courier services 275 hotels 210
Civic Center 12, 13, 57, 124–31 Cow Hollow 73 senior travelers 266
area map 125 Cowell Theater 75, 252, 253 students 268
hotels 212–15 Crab, Dungeness 80, 219 Discovery Tidepool (California
restaurants and cafés 222–3 Credit cards 272, 273 Academy of Sciences) 152
street-by-street 126–7 photo ID 267 Disney, Walt 62
Civic Center Plaza 127, 128 in shops 232 Diving, Lake Tahoe 200, 201
Civil rights movement 34 Crescent City 196 MS Dixie (Lake Tahoe) 198
Claremont Resort and Spa (Berkeley) Crime 270 D.L. Bliss State Park 198
165, 261 Crissy Field 11, 32, 51, 61, 62, 263 Doctors 271
Clarke, Alfred (Nobby) 141 Crocker, Charles 104, 105 Doda, Carol 88
Clarke’s Folly 48, 141 Crocker, William H. 105 Doe Library (UC Berkeley) 178
Classical music 252, 253 Crocker Galleria 118, 233, 235 Dolores Park 140
Clay Street 107 Cruises Dolores Street 140
Clay Theater 248, 250, 251 arriving on 279 Dolphin Club 174, 261
Clement Street 63 Bay 81, 287 Domaine Carneros (Napa Valley) 194
Cliff House 13, 18, 155, 159 Crystal Bay Corridor 200 Domaine Chandon (Napa Valley) 192,
Climate 51–3 Cunningham, Imogen 123 194, 195
Clos du Val (Napa Valley) 192 Curran Theater 118, 251 Downtown
Clos Pegase Winery (Napa Valley) 13, Currency 273 hotels 212–15
192, 194 Customs information 266 restaurants and cafés 222–3
Clothing Cycling 261 Doyle, Sir Arthur Conan 71
shops 238–41 bicycle rental 261 Dragon Gateway 34
what to take 268 Lake Tahoe 200 Drake, Sir Francis 23, 24, 162, 178
Club Fugazi 89, 251 Napa Valley 195 Drake’s Bay 24, 162
Coast Miwok Indians 24, 176 in San Francisco 281 Dress code, restaurant 217, 267
Coastal Trail 60, 144, 159 Driving
Cocktail bars 258, 259 D in San Francisco 288
Cody, William (“Buffalo Bill”) 155 Dalí, Salvador 122 to San Francisco 278
Coffee 221, 230 Dance 252–3 Drugs 34, 136
Coit, Lillie Hitchcock 92 clubs 256, 257 Duckhorn Vineyards (Napa Valley) 192,
Coit Tower 32, 37, 47, 57, 92–3 Dance at Mission Dolores (Choris) 24–5 194
itineraries 11, 12, 13 Daughters of Bilitis 44 Duncan, Isadora 118
murals 93, 142 Davies, Louise M. 128 Dungeness crab 80, 219
Telegraph Hill 90, 91 Davis, Miles 131 Duran, Father Narciso 25
Colton Hall (Monterey) 189 Davis, Stuart 122 Dutch Windmill (Golden Gate Park) 155
Columbarium 149 Day of the Dead 52, 140
Columbus, Christopher, statue 90 Day trips south of the city 170–71 E
Columbus Café 88, 89 De Forest, Roy, Country Dog Gentleman Eagle Falls (Emerald Bay State Park) 201
Columbus Day Parade 52 121 Eames, Charles and Ray 123
Early San Francisco 24–5 Farallon Islands 155 Flea markets 244, 245
Earthquakes 20–21, 271 Farallones National Marine Sanctuary Fleet Week 52
1906 20, 21, 23, 30–31 60, 262 Flood, James Leary (“Bonanza King”) 73,
1989 20, 21, 34, 35 Farmers’ markets 244, 245, 269 103, 104
2007 35 Ferry Building 114, 269 Flood Mansion see Convent of the
Earthquake Trail 162 Oakland 167 Sacred Heart
East Bay 161 United Nations Plaza 127, 235 Florence Gould Theater 158
East West Bank 98, 102 Farquharson, David 164 Florence Street 182
Easter Sunrise Services 50 Farther Afield 160–71 Flower Power 34, 131, 134, 136
Eastlake, Charles 77 hotels 212–15 Fog 51
Ecology Trail 61 map 161 Folk art 242, 243
Ehrman Mansion (Lake Tahoe) 198, 201 restaurants and cafés 229 Folk music 255
Einstein, Albert 105 Fast-food outlets 216, 231 Folsom Street Fair 45, 52
El Capitán (Yosemite National Park) Fauvism 122 Food and drink
204, 205 Federal Art Project 91 for children 263
Electricity 269 Federal Building 127 Flavors of San Francisco 218–19
Electronics stores 244, 245 Federal Bureau of Prisons 84 light meals and snacks 231
Elizabeth I, Queen 24, 178 Ferlinghetti, Lawrence 88, 92 San Francisco’s cafés 230
Ellis, Charles 65 Ferries 287 shopping 244, 245
Email 274, 275 Angel Island 163 what to drink in San Francisco
Embarcadero Center 10, 11, 110, 112 Ferry Building 30, 57, 111, 114–15 220–21
cinema 250, 251 1915 Exposition 72 see also Restaurants and cafés
shopping 233 itineraries 11, 12, 13 Food trucks 216
Emerald Bay (Lake Tahoe) 198, 201 Festival Hall 33 Football 52, 260, 261
Emergencies 270, 271 Festivals and events Fort Alcatraz 82, 85
Empire Gold Mine 171 film festivals 50, 250, 251 Fort Barry Visitor Center 176, 177
Entertainment 246–61 gay community 45 Fort Bragg 190
bars 258–9 San Francisco through the year Fort Mason 11, 12, 13, 74–5
buying tickets 246, 247 50–53 mural 143
disabled travelers 247 see also Entertainment museums 39, 41, 75
discount tickets 246–7 Filbert Steps 91, 93 walk 174, 175
film and theater 250–51 Fillmore (film) 250 World War II 32
free events 247 Fillmore, Millard 85 Fort Mason Center 51, 75, 175, 251
in hotels 209 Fillmore Auditorium 131, 248, 250, 254, Fort Point 11, 59, 60, 62
information sources 246 255 Fort Ross State Historic Park 190–91
nightclubs 256–7 Fillmore Street 73, 239 Fortune cookies 101
opera, classical music and dance Film 250, 251 “Forty-Niners” 27
252–3 festivals 50, 250, 251 Foundation for San Francisco’s
rock, jazz, blues and country music locations 250 Architectural Heritage 72
254–5 ratings 250 Fountain of Energy (Stirling Calder) 32
San Francisco’s best 248–9 Filoli (Woodside) 171 Fountain Plaza 87
sports and outdoor activities 260–61 Financial District 14, 109–15 Four-Mile Trail (Yosemite National Park)
Ernst, Max 122 street-by-street 110–11 205
Escape from Alcatraz (film) 82, 85, 250 Financial District and Union Square Fourth Street (Berkeley) 164
Esplanade Ballroom 116 108–23 Fraenkel Gallery 40, 242, 243
Esplanade Gardens 116 area map 109 Franciscan Oakville Estates (Napa
Ethnic art 41, 242, 243 hotels 212–15 Valley) 194
Ethnic mix 42–3 restaurants and cafés 222–3 Franciscans 196
Etiquette 267 Fire services 270, 271 Franklin, Benjamin, statue 90, 92
Eucalyptus Grove (UC Berkeley) 179 Firearms Museum (Winchester Mystery Fredell, Gail, Graphite to Taste 123
Eureka 87, 174 House) 170 Free events 247, 253, 267
Evans, Walker 123 First Interstate Center 111 Fremont, John 27, 64, 85
Events see Entertainment; Festivals and First Unitarian Church 48 Freusier Octagon House 183
events Fish Alley 80 Fringe Festival 52
Exchange Saloon 113 Fisherman’s and Seaman’s Chapel 80 Frog’s Leap Winery (Napa Valley) 192
Exercise Yard (Alcatraz) 83 Fisherman’s Wharf 80–87 Fur trade 26, 43, 190, 196
Exploratorium 41, 94–5 itineraries 10, 11, 12, 13 Furnished apartments 211
children’s activities 262, 263 street entertainers 249
store 237 street-by-street 80–81 G
see also Fisherman’s Wharf and North Gadget shops 236, 237
F Beach Galleries see Museums and galleries
Faculty Club (UC Berkeley) 179 Fisherman’s Wharf (Monterey) 189 Gambling 26, 28
Faculty Glade (UC Berkeley) 179 Fisherman’s Wharf and North Beach Lake Tahoe 198, 201
Fair, James 104 78–95 Games shops 236, 237, 263
Fairmont Hotel 103, 104 area map 79 Gandhi Monument 111
1906 earthquake 30, 31 hotels 212–14 Gardens see Parks and gardens
live music 249 restaurants and cafés 224 Gay Pride Month 45
Fall in San Francisco 52 Fishing, Lake Tahoe 200 Gay Pride Parade 44, 45
Family Dog collective 131 Fitzgerald Marine Preserve 188 Gays and lesbians
Fannette Island (Lake Tahoe) 201 Flavors of San Francisco accommodations 210, 211
Fantoni, Charles 92 218–19 AIDS 34, 44, 45
Gays and lesbians (cont.) Grant, Ulysses S. 101 Hearst Museum of Anthropology
bars 258, 259 Graphite to Taste (Fredell) 123 (UC Berkeley) 41, 164, 179
Castro District 138 Grateful Dead 131, 136, 155, 250 Heavenly Ski Resort 260, 261
clubs 256, 257 Graves, Michael 194 Helen Crocker Russell Library of
film festival 45, 138, 250, 251 Gray Whale Cove 188 Horticulture 154
Gay San Francisco: a history 44–5 Gray whales 53, 196, 260, 262 Helicopter tours 281
GLBT History Museum 138 Great America 263 Hellman, Isaias W. 201
travelers 268, 269 Great American Music Hall 129, 254, Helms, Chet 131
Geary Boulevard 118 255 Hendrix, Jimi 34, 131, 136
Geary Theater 118, 249 Great Buddha (Japanese Tea Garden) Herbst Theater 126, 129, 252, 253
Gehry, Frank 123 146, 149 Herman, Justin 130
German Expressionism 122 Great Depression 32, 93, 142 Hershell-Spillman merry-go-round
Ghiberti, Lorenzo 105 Great Meadow 175 (Golden Gate Park) 149
Ghirardelli Square 11, 37, 87, 233 Green Street 183 Hertz Hall (UC Berkeley) 179
Giannini, A.P. 113 Green travel 269, 280, 281 Hess, Donald 194
Gibbs House 73 hotels 214–15, 269 Hess Collection (Napa Valley) 192, 194
Ginsberg, Allen 34 Greenwich Steps 91, 93 Hetch Hetchy Dam 31, 33
Glaciation 201, 204 Greyhound buses 278, 279 Hiking
Glacier Point (Yosemite National Park) Grgich Hills Cellars (Napa Valley) 194, Lake Tahoe 200
202, 205 195 Yosemite National Park 204, 205
GLBT History Museum 138 Gripmen 106 Hillcrest School, mural 142
Gold Rush 23, 26–7 Grizzly Giant (Mariposa Grove) 203 Hippies 34, 131, 133, 134, 136
architecture 47, 48 Guerneville 190 The Hippodrome 112
Golden Age 32–3 Gump’s 13, 118, 233, 237 Hispanic-Americans 42, 133
Golden Era Building 110 Gundlach-Bundschu Winery (Sonoma Historic Trolley Line 80
Golden Gate Bridge 2–3, 18, 37, 60, Valley) 197 History 22–35
64–7 Guston, Philip 122 museums 41
in figures 66 Guttman, John 123 History Museum of San José 171
in the fog 264–5 Gyms 260, 261 Hitchcock, Alfred 139, 190, 250
from Lincoln Park 150–51 HIV see AIDS/HIV
itineraries 11, 12, 13 H Hobart, Lewis Parsons 105
opening of 33, 64, 66–7 Haas, William 29, 72 Holiday Lights Boat Parade 53
timeline of construction 65 Haas-Lilienthal House 28–9, 71, 72 Holt Hinshaw Pfau Jones, 92 Chaise 122
visitors’ checklist 65 architecture 46, 48 Holy Virgin Cathedral 43, 63
Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Company Hagiwara, Makota 101 Home for the Holidays 45
98, 101, 236, 237 Haight Ashbury 12, 13, 133, 134, Homeless people 270
Golden Gate Hostel 177 136 Homewood Ski Resort 198
Golden Gate National Park Store 236, hotels 212, 214 Hopkins, Mark 48, 89, 104
237 restaurants and cafés 225–6 Hopkins, Mary 104
Golden Gate National Recreation Area shopping 239 Hopland 191
(GGNRA) street-by-street 134–5 Horse and carriage tours 281
Alcatraz Island 82 Haight Ashbury and the Mission Horse riding 155
headquarters 75, 175 132–41 Lake Tahoe 200
Marin Headlands 176–7 area map 133 Hospitals 271
Golden Gate Park 29, 37, 144–57 Haight Street 234 Hot springs (Calistoga) 192, 195
children’s activities 263 Haight Street Fair 51 Hot-air balloons, Napa Valley 195
creation of 148 Half Dome (Yosemite National Park) Hotaling Building 47, 48
itineraries 11, 12, 13 203, 204, 205 Hotaling Place 110
Panhandle 12, 13, 134, 136 Half Moon Bay 188 Hotels 208–15
Shakespeare in the Park 52 Hall, Doug 123 booking 210
street-by-street 146–7 Hall, William Hammond 148 boutique 212–13
Golden Gate Park Band 147 Hallidie, Andrew Smith 106, 107 budget 214, 268
Golden Gate Park and Land’s End Hallidie Building 47, 49 chain 208
144–59 Halloween 45, 52 children in 210
area map 144–5 Halprin, Lawrence 93 disabled travelers 210
restaurants and cafés 224–5 Hamburger places 231 discounts 210
Golden Gate Promenade 75, 174, 175 Hang-gliding, Lake Tahoe 200 Downtown 212–15
Golden Gate Raptor Observatory 177 Haraszthy, Count Agoston 197 facilities 209
Golden State Warriors 260, 261 Harding, Warren G. 32 Farther Afield 212–15
Golf courses 159, 189, 260, 261 Hartley, Marsden 122 Fisherman’s Wharf and North Beach
Good cause shops 236, 237 Hatch, Herbert 107 212–14
Goslinsky House 46, 48 Hatch House 107 green 214–15, 269
Gothic Revival style 76 Hawk Hill 176 Haight Ashbury and Castro 212, 214
Gourmet Ghetto (Berkeley) 164 Hayes Valley 10, 12, 13, 130, 239 hidden extras 209
Grace Cathedral 13, 53, 103, 105, 182 Healdsburg, restaurants 229 luxury and spa 215
choral music 253 Health 270–71 Northern California 212–15
Graham, Bill 128, 131 Health clubs 260, 261 Pacific Heights and the Marina 212–
Graham, Don 123 Hearst Greek Theater (UC Berkeley) 15
Granizo, Guillermo 139 178, 254, 255 prices 208
Grant Avenue 37, 89, 99, 100, 101 Hearst Mining Building (UC Berkeley) restaurants 209
shopping 235 178 SoMa and Mission 212–15
House of Happy Walls (Jack London Jewish community 43, 63, 140 Legion of Honor 10, 32, 158–9
State Historic Park) 197 Contemporary Jewish Museum 115, San Francisco’s best 38, 40
Household goods 244, 245 180 store 237
Howard, John Galen 49, 128, 178 Magnes Collection of Jewish Art and visitors’ checklist 159
Huether, Gordon 194 Life (Berkeley) 165 Leonard, Joseph A. 74
Humboldt Lagoons State Park 196 John Berggruen Gallery 40, 242, 243 Lesbian and Gay Pride Day 51
Huntington, Collis P. 103, 104, 154 John McLaren Rhododendron Dell Lesbians see Gays and lesbians
Huntington Hotel 103 (Golden Gate Park) 147 Lesende (Reading) (Richter) 121
Huntington Park 103 Johns, Jasper 122 Levi Strauss & Co. 93, 137
Hyatt Regency Hotel 112 Johnson’s Beach (Guerneville) 190 Levi’s Plaza 11, 93
Hyde Street 183 Jonas, Joan 123 LGBT community 44–5
Hyde Street Pier 87, 173, 174 Joplin, Janis 34, 131 Liana Gallery (Napa Valley) 194
Joseph Phelps Vineyard (Napa Valley) Libeskind, Daniel 35, 180
I 193 Libraries 41
Ice Age 201 Josephine D. Randall Junior Museum Blumenthal Library (Berkeley) 165
Ice hockey 260, 261 262, 263 Helen Crocker Russell Library of
Identification (ID) 267 Juneteenth 51 Horticulture 154
Immigration 42–3 Justin Herman Plaza 111, 114 Main Library 33, 41, 127
The Impresario (Degas) 159 Maritime Library 75
Incline Village 198 K Old Main Library 49, 127, 128
restaurants 229 Kahlo, Frida 122 Stanford University 41
Indian community 43 Kayaking 260 University of California at Berkeley 41,
Indians of All Tribes 34, 82, 85 Lake Tahoe 200, 201 178
Inglenook Estate (Napa Valley) 192 Kelham, George 49, 115, 127 Lieberman, A., Within 179
Insurance Kelley Park (San José) 171 Liebermann, Max 165
medical 271 Kelly, Alton 131 Light meals 231
travel 271 Kelly, George 85 Lighthouse (Alcatraz Island) 82
International Auto Show 52 Kerouac, Jack 34, 79, 88 Lilienthal, Alice 72
Internet access 274, 275 Khaledi, Darioush 194–5 Lin, T.Y. 116
in hotels 209 Kimball Natural History Museum 152 Lincoln Park 144, 159
Inverness 162 King Oliver’s Creole Band 32 golf course 159
Irish bars 258, 259 Kino, Father Francisco 25 Lingerie 240, 241
Irish community 42, 100 Kinsey, Alfred 44 Listings magazines 246, 266, 275
IT industry 34, 170 Kipling, Rudyard 115 Little Italy 43, 79, 89, 90, 92
Italian community 42–3, 188 Kirchner, Johann Gottlieb 158 Lobos Creek 60
Museo Italo Americano 75 Kirkwood Ski Resort 260, 261 Local interest museums 41
North Beach 79, 90, 92 Kite surfing, Lake Tahoe 200 Loire, Gabriel 105
Italianate style 76 Kittredge, Charmian 197 Loma Prieta earthquake 20, 21, 130,
Itineraries 10–13 Klee, Paul 122 167
2 Days in San Francisco 12 Kline, Franz 122 Lombard Street 19, 79, 88
3 Days in San Francisco 12–13 Knight, Lora Josephine 201 London, Jack 30, 136
5 Days in San Francisco 13 Kong Chow Temple 98, 100 Jack London State Historic Park 197
Along the Waterfront 11 Koons, Jeff, Michael Jackson and Oakland 167
Art, Old and New 10 Bubbles 123 Lone Mountain 131
A Day Outdoors 11 Korean community 43, 167 Lone Mountain Cemetery 149
Just for Kids 10 Koret Education Center (SFMOMA) 121 Long-distance buses 278–9
see also Tours Kruse Rhododendron Reserve 191 Longshoreman’s Strike 33
Kuan Di 100 Loomis Museum (Lassen Volcanic
J Kule Loklo Indians 25 National Park) 196
Jack London Square (Oakland) 167 Lost and stolen property 271
Jack London State Historic Park 197 L Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall 10,
Jackson Square Historical District 27, LaFarge, John 73 126, 128, 252, 253
29, 48, 110, 112 Lafayette Park 71, 72–3 backstage tours 253
antique shops 235, 242, 243 Lake Merritt (Oakland) 51, 166–7 “Love-ins” 34
Japan Center 37, 130 Lake Tahoe 186, 198–201 Lowe, S. 111
Cherry Blossom Festival 50, 130 facts 201 Lower Haight Neighborhood 137
shopping 233, 234 hotels 213, 214 Lower Yosemite Fall (Yosemite National
Japanese Tea Garden (Golden Gate restaurants and cafés 229 Park) 202, 204
Park) 145, 146, 149 Lake Tahoe Shakespeare Festival 198 Lucier, Mary 123
itineraries 11, 12, 13 Lake Tahoe State Park 198 Luxury hotels 215
Japanese-Americans 33, 43 Lakeside Park (Oakland) 166–7
Jaywalkiung 281 Land reclamation 148 M
Jazz 32, 131, 246, 254 Land’s End 13, 144, 159 “M” sculpture (Benton) 40
venues 254, 255 Lassen Peak 196 Mackay, John 104
Jeans 28, 93, 137 Lassen Volcanic National Park 196 McLaren, John 29, 147, 148, 149, 159
Jedediah Smith State Park 196 Laver, Augustus 104 McLaren Lodge 149
Jefferson Airplane 131, 155 Lawrence Hall of Science (UC Berkley) Macondray Lane 183
Jenner 190 41, 164 Macy’s 118, 233
Jess 123 Learning Wall (Franklin Street) 143 Madame Tussaud’s 11, 81, 86, 263
Jesuits 131 Leather clothing 240, 241 Magazines 275
“Jewels in the Square” 247 Lee, Clayton 100 Maggie McGarry’s Pub 89
Magic Theater 75, 251 Maps (cont.) Mission District 133, 139–41
Magnes Collection of Jewish Art and United States 14–15 festivals 50
Life (Berkeley) 165 Yosemite National Park 202–3 as film location 250
Main Library 33, 41, 127 Marc, Franz 122 hotels 212–15
Maki, Fumihiko 49, 123 Marin County 161, 190 itineraries 10, 12
Malls and shopping centers 232–3 Marin Headlands 173 murals 143
Manchester State Beach 191 walk 176–7 restaurants 227–9
Manila Bay, Battle of 118 Wildflower Walks 50 see also Haight Ashbury and the
Manzanita Lake (Lassen Volcanic Marina District 48, 69, 70, 75 Mission
National Park) 196 see also Pacific Heights and the Mission Revival-style 182
Maps Marina Mission Street 180, 181
A 30-minute walk through North Marina Green 56, 75, 174 Missions 24, 25, 26
Beach 89 Marine Drive 60 architecture 48
49-Mile Scenic Drive 56–7 Mariposa Grove (Yosemite National Mission Carmel 48, 188, 189
A 90-Minute walk around Aquatic Park) 203, 205 Mission Dolores 24–5, 41, 48, 139
Park 174–5 Maritime Library 75 Mission San Francisco Solano de
A 90-minute walk around Russian Hill Maritime Museum 75, 87 Sonoma (Sonoma) 26, 196–7
182–3 Maritime National Historical Park see Mission San José 25
A 90-Minute walk around SoMa San Francisco Maritime National Mist Trail (Yosemite National Park) 204
180–81 Historical Park Mitchell, Joan 122
A 90-Minute walk around the Mark Cavagnero Associates 49 Mobile phones 274, 275
University of California Campus in Mark Hopkins InterContinental Hotel Monet, Claude
Berkeley 178–9 103, 104, 215 Sailboat on the Seine 38
A 90-minute walk through the Marin Markets see Farmers’ markets; Flea Waterlilies 158
Headlands 176–7 markets Money 272–3
BART trains 286 Marsh, George Turner 149 Monroe, Marilyn 92
Bay Area 16–17 Marshall, John 27 Montara 188
Central San Francisco 18–19 Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial 116, Monterey 188–9
Chinatown and Nob Hill 97 180–81 Jazz Festival 254, 255
Chinatown street-by-street 98–9 Martinez, Alfredo Ramos, mural 41 Pop Festival 34
Civic Center 125 Matisse, Henri 122 Monterey Bay Aquarium 189
Civic Center street-by-street 126–7 Mattachine Society 44 Montgomery Block 113
Day trips south of the city 170 Maupin, Armistead 183 Montgomery Street 91, 109, 110
Farther Afield 161 Maybeck, Bernard 48, 49, 123, 179 Moon Bridge (Japanese Tea Garden)
Ferries and Bay trips 287 Mealtimes 216 146, 149, 156–7
Financial District street-by-street Media 274–5 Moon-watching pavilion (Stow Lake)
110–11 Media arts, San Francisco Museum of 154
Financial District and Union Square Modern Art 123 Mopeds 281
109 Melodius Double Stops (Shaw) 121 Mora, Jo, Cervantes bust 147
Fisherman’s Wharf and North Beach Memorial Church (Stanford University) Morgan, Julia 104
79 171 Mormon Temple (Oakland) 166
Fisherman’s Wharf street-by-street Mendocino 187, 191 Morris, Frank 85
80–81 hotels 212 Morris, Mark 252
Five Guided Walks 173 A Two-Day Tour to Mendocino Morrison Planetarium (California
Golden Gate Park and Land’s End 190–91 Academy of Sciences) 152
144–5 Mendocino Headlands State Morrow, Irving F. 65
Golden Gate Park street-by-street Park 191 Morse, Michael 35
146–7 Men’s clothes 240, 241 Moscone, George 34, 45, 138
Greater San Francisco 15 Merchant’s Exchange 49, 110, 114 Moscone Center 20, 116–17, 180
Haight Ashbury and the Mission 133 Meta III (Scanga) 75 Moss Landing 188
Haight Ashbury street-by-street Mexican art 122 Motherwell, Robert 194
134–5 Mexican food 219, 231 Motorcycles 281
Lake Tahoe 198–9 Mexican Museum 41, 75, 175 Mount Davidson 50
Napa Valley Wine Country 192–3 Mexican Revolution 26 Mount Tamalpais 161, 162, 163
Nob Hill street-by-street 103 Mexico Mountain Lake 61
Northern California 186–7 independence from Spain 23, 26 Mountain Theater (Mount Tamalpais)
Pacific Heights and the Marina 69 San Francisco captured from 26 163
Pacific Heights street-by-street 70–71 Michael Jackson and Bubbles (Koons) Mouse, Stanley 131
Presidio 59 123 Mud baths (Calistoga) 195
Putting San Francisco on the map Mile Rock Lighthouse 159 Mud wagons 169
14–15 Military Dorm (Alcatraz) 82 Muir, John 162–3
San Francisco Transportation Routes Military Morgue (Alcatraz) 82 Muir Beach 162–3
see inside back cover Milk, Harvey 34, 45, 138 Muir Woods 160, 162–3
Shopping around Union Square 235 Mill Valley 190 Mullet, A.B. 119
Sightseeing by bus and streetcar 283 Miller, James Rupert 114 Mumm Napa Valley 192, 194
Sightseeing by cable car 285 Mills, Darius 114 Muni 282–3, 285
Street Finder 290–308 Mills Field airfield 32, 34 Murals 140, 142–3
Telegraph Hill street-by-street 90–91 Minibus shuttle services 277 Alice Street Community Gardens 181
A Two-Day Tour to Carmel 188–9 Mission Cliffs 263 Rincon Annex 115
A Two-Day Tour to Mendocino Mission Cultural Center for the Latino Murphy Windmill (Golden Gate Park)
190–91 Arts 140 155
316 

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide San Francisco & Northern California

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DK Eyewitness Travel Guide San Francisco & Northern California

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What is the book about?

What is the book about?

What places are mentioned in the book?

What places are mentioned in the book?

eyewitness travel

Printed and bound in Malaysia.

First American Edition, 1994

ISSN 1542-1554 San Francisco’s

San Francisco Through

The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked annually.

The magnificent Golden Gate Bridge at night

Stow Lake, Golden Gate Park

Golden Gate Park

Farther Afield 160

Five Guided Walks 172

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

Finding Your Way Around the Sightseeing Section

SAN FRANCISCO AREA BY AREA  59

Each area has

in the city center. streets in the area.

See also Street Finder

Street-by-Street: Telegraph Hill

E San Francisco Bay

1933, as part of the

FISHERMAN’S WHARF AND

Eeastern side, where it was dynamited to provide rocks

COURSE E N U CHINATOWN AND

to immigrants and to artists who appreciated the

ORNIA scaped steps contrast

clapboard homes are much sought after and this is

R D one of the city’s prime residential areas.

ARY BOUL EVA GE Telegraph Hill is dominated by Coit

The Statue of Benjamin

Franklin stands above a

containing Levi’s, a poem,

Introduction to the Area For

and a recording of the

Napier Lane is a small lane

easy reference, the sights in

T lined with 19th-century

and a tranquil retreat from the city.

each area are numbered and

heart of Little Italy is R

plotted on an area map. To

help the visitor, this map also

shows BART stations, cable car

The descent through flower

gardens down these steps

turntables, and parking areas.

gives fine views over the

Key sights are listed by

Temples; Museums and

Galleries; Historic Streets and

Central San Francisco Lombard Street

The colored areas shown on

the eight main sightseeing areas –

each covered by a full chapter in San craggy Marin

Francisco Area by Area (pp54–183).

They are highlighted on other

example, they help locate the top