Munich

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Instant Munich
Munich can be neatly divided in to five distinct districts, each with reasons to explore it. Take your pick.

Maxvorstadt
Munichs 'Latin' quarter is chockablock with worldclass museums, galleries and student pubs and is a cross between the Left Bank and Greenwich Village.

Essential mini guides

Schwabing
The old artists quarter of Munich is home to the Ludwig Maximilian University and is a paradise for bookworms and caf goers. The main drag, Leopoldstrae and its side streets are littered with cafs with outdoor seating, boutiques, bars and nightclubs. The Englischer Garten, the huge city park, delineates Schwabing to the east.

Old Town
The circular Altstadt (Old Town) may only be about one square kilometre in size, but this small area has enough shops, theatres, museums, historical sites, churches and beer gardens to attract 300,000 visitors a day.

Bogenhausen Introducing Munich

The place where anything and everything is possible. Munich is a wonder of possibilites, and a city so full of things to see, to do and to experience that one trip can never be enough. Thats why people return time and time again. Instant Munich is the perfect introduction to the city. Full of information to make travel easier, Instant Munich is your one stop shop for Munich travel information. Be sure to take a look at our other Instant guides, at www.inyourpocket.com/instant And remember to pick up a copy of Munich In Your Pocket when you arrive in town.
One of the prettiest neighbourhoods and home to a number of buildings from Munichs jugendstil architectural movement. The district skyline is dominated by the unique 114m Hypo Hochhaus. Bogenhausen also offers galleries, upmarket shops and noble restaurants. Contains Arabella Park, home of the super-rich.

Further afield
To the north lies the famous Olympiapark plus the BMW car factory and museum. To the west is Nymphenburg with its palace, park, botanical gardens and Hirschgarten, Europes largest beer garden. South has Hellabrunn Zoo and the Bavarian Film Museum, where classics such as Das Boot and The Never Ending Story were shot.

Haidhausen
What used to be a refuge for vagrants, prostitutes and the mentally ill has morphed into a multicultural yuppie district east of the Old Town, boasting a cool scene resembling backstreet Paris. At the heart of the district is Rosenheimer Platz, a square close to both the Deutsches Museum and the Gasteig Cultural Centre. Due north is Arabella Park, home of the super-rich.

Instant Munich
In Your Pocket Instant guides are part of a series of European destination guides published by the In Your Pocket publishing group. For more information about our products, take a look at the web site, www.inyourpocket.com. In Your Pocket Munich is published by: In Your Pocket GmbH Linienstrae 111 10115 Berlin Tel: (+49)(0)30 27 90 79 81 Fax: (+49)(0)30 24 04 73 50 [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text, photos, maps copyright In Your Pocket GmbH 2004. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner.

Munich: The facts

Area Germany covers an area of 357,021 km 2, of which almost a third is woodland. Munich lies in the far south of the country. The highest peak is the Zugspitze, in the German Alps (2954 metres). Local time Germany is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1 hour. When it is 12:00 in Munich it is: 05:00 in New York, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Rome, 14:00 in Moscow and 20:00 in Sydney. Population Germany: 83,251,851 (July 2002) Munich: 1,227,958 (December 2001) Temperature The average January temperature in Munich is a rather chilly -2C (28F) while in July temperatures soar to a positively terrace inducing 18C (64F).

Restaurants Bars Clubs Sights Culture Hotels Transport and a whole host of other useful information
Instant Munich 2004/2005

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2 Instant Munich

Arrival & Transport Public transport

Munichs public transport system (MVV) is excellent with S-Bahn suburban trains, U-Bahn metros and a comprehensive network of bus and tram routes. Transport runs from around 05:00 to 01:00, and tickets are valid for all kinds of city transport. Tickets can be bought from machines by the platforms or at the MVV centre on the first floor of the Hauptbahnhof (open 06:00 - 24:00). With a 1.10 Kurzstrecke (short distance) ticket you can travel for one hour and up to two stops in one direction, with transfers on the S-Bahn or U-Bahn, or up to four stops with the tram or bus. With the Einzelticket (single ticket) you pay per zone and the ticket is good for 3 hours in one zone, or 4 hours in 2 or more zones. One zone costs 2.10, two zones cost 4.20 three zones cost 6.30, four zones or more cost 8.40. Kids travel for 1. A day ticket is good value if youre planning more than two short rides. There are two types of day tickets: the Individual and the Partner for up to 5 people (2 children from 6-14 years count as one person). Prices range from 4.50 to 18.50 depending on whether you are travelling within the city centre (Innenraum) or the outskirts (Aussenraum, including the airport), or both. The other possibility is to bu y a 9.50 Streifenkarte (stripe card) which has ten stripes that you stamp as needed. Stamp two stripes (1.90) per zone that you are travelling. If you intend to use public transportation a lot for a few days, the best deal is the Wochenticket or Isarkarte (week card) for 9.70 to travel anywhere you want in the first two zones. The Germans are a trusting bunch and dont check your tickets very often, but if you dont want to risk a 40 fine, make sure you always validate your ticket in the blue box before entering the platform. On buses and trams, single tickets can be bought from the driver.

of people movers. Follow signs for Mnchen Airport Centre to find all of the essentials. At the 24hr Service Centre you can leave luggage (2.20 3.60/24hrs), surf the internet and buy various cards and tickets. Although the airport is far from Munich, getting to town couldnt be simpler. The fastest and cheapest way into the city is to take S-Bahn lines S1 or S8, departing from underneath the Central Area. Alternatively, you could exit terminals A or D to take the Lufthansa airport bus to the main train station, which departs every 20 minutes from 06:25 - 21:45. The trip takes 45 minutes and costs 9 (children 4.50). For direct transport to the Munich fairgrounds take the shuttle from terminals A and D (between 08:35 - 18:05) for 8. Terminal 2 has put Munich alongside Frankfurt as the most important hubs in Germany. The new facilities are exclusively used by Lufthansa and its partners, with transfer time between connecting flights slashed to 30 minutes. Some of Munichs top gastronomic names including Dallmayr, Kfer, Kuffler and Hofbruhaus have also set up shop in the terminal. The wide-open Munich Airport Center (MAC) is a sibling of the Sony Center in Berlins Potsdamer Platz: both were sired by architect Helmut Jahn. Unlike the Sony Centers crowning Mount Fuji formation, here material is stretched tautly overhead like a school of seven stingrays. Practical services fill MAC which borders both Terminals 1 and 2.

price. The DBs German and European online train timetable at www.bahn.de is so good that its often easier to use for planning trips within neighbouring countries than the relevant national websites. Click on the link to Int. Guests for the English version. You can book online in advance, pay by credit card and print out your ticket and seat reservations at home.

Restaurants
Tasty, filling and not exactly for weight-watchers, Bavarian cooking is available in Munich at a wide range of eateries. Restaurants known as Gaststtten are the best places to enjoy local food. Generally speaking, eating out in Munich is not cheap with Italian fare tending towards the best value. Prices indicate the range of main dishes.

Taxis
Munich taxis are all cream-coloured Mercedes or BMWs. Hail them on the street, find one at a rank or phone a Zentrale. The basic fare is 2.60 (add 1 if you pre-order) plus 1.20-1.45 for each kilometre. And being Germany, you wont get ripped off - trustworthy metres tick away at the official rate. The main companies are: Isarfunk tel. 45 05 40 Taxi Mnchen tel. 216 10.

Bavarian
Augustiner am Dante Dantestr. 16, MWestfriedhof,
tel. 15 91 98 70. Mnchners are into what they call After-Vork Dinner. 6.99-specials (drink included) attract more than just hungry business folk en route to the dance floor. Meat comes direct from the local slaughterhouse and the chef handpicks the vegetables from the market stalls. Two daily specials for just 5 and fish on Friday. Open 09:00 - 01:00. (7-15) 31 01, www.georgenhof.de. Typical Bavarian Schmankerl (delicious morsels, literally) are what pulls the crowd to this rustic restaurant also famed for its typical Gemtlichkeit (conviviality). The roast duck is some of the best in Munich and you can watch the cooks prepare your fresh fish or meat over a charcoal grill in the middle of the dining area. Open 12:30 - 01:00.

Car rental
Munich is plagued by frequent traffic jams and a limited number of parking spaces, so driving in the city is not recommended but deals can be had at the car rental companies. Avis Munich Airport, Terminal 1, tel. 97 59 76 00,
www.avis.de. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Also at Nymphenburger Str. 61. Budget Munich Airport, Terminal 1, tel. 97 59 67 05, www.budget.de. Open 06:30 - 23:30. Also at Schiestttenstr. 12. Europcar Munich Airport, Terminal 1, tel. 973 50 20. Hertz Munich Airport, Terminal 1, tel. 97 88 60. Also at the main train station, Leopoldstr. 194, and four other outlets. Sixt Munich Airport, Terminal 1, tel. 0180-525 25 25. Also at the main train station, and Karlsplatz 25.

Georgenhof H-1, Friedrichstr. 1, MGieselastr, tel. 39

Trains
Munichs rail hub is the Hauptbahnhof (main train station), just 500m east of the Old Town (follow signs for Stadtmitte to get there). For information, go to the tourist information office overlooking the square or the EurAid office inside the station. Check your email at the Times Square internet caf in the main hall or cross Bahnhofpl. to find the easyInternetcaf. ATMs can be found dotted through the station; change currency or cash travellers cheques at the Reisebank near the Bayerstrae exit (open 07:30 - 19:15, Sat 09:30 - 16:45. Closed Sun). Use the lockers (Schliessfcher, 1-2) or th e counter (Gepckaufbewahrung, open 06:00 - 22:00, 2.05/ 24hrs) for your baggage. The McClean toilets and showers are downstairs in the entrance to the UBahn station; there are also toilets on the right by the Bayerstr. exit. Taxis are readily available at each of the three exits. U-Bahn lines 1, 2, 7 and 8 can be found at the left exit as well as city buses and the airport bus, while metro lines N4 and 5 are at the right exit. The Lufthansa airport bus stop is just outside the northern exit. DB (Deutsche Bahn, German rail ways) uses a number of train types on long-distance routes. The supersexy, highspeed, inter-city ICE trains zip through the countryside at up to 300km/hr. Every seat has a headphone plug for the eight music stations, and you may get a TV screen too. Table seats have 220V plugs for laptops, and some carriages have amplifiers to enable clear mobile phone conversations. EC (EuroCity) and IC (InterCity) trains are less swank, but still very good, connecting international and German cities respectively. Seat reservations are not always obligatory (check before boarding), but the 3 investment may save you from having to stand. Tickets can be purchased at the the DB Centre and travel agency (open 06:00 - 22:30) in the main hall. DB has a complicated pricing structure; the sooner you buy the ticket, the more likely youll get a reduced

Bicycles
Everyone in Munich cycles it seems, so join the crowd and hop on a bike. DB CallBikes, tel. 0700-05 22 55 22,
www.callabike.de. German railways (DB) doesnt just run sexy-looking trains; now it also rents out space age bikes for 0.06 per minute (Max 15 per 24hrs), with no deposit. The silver-red bicycles known as CallBikes can be found parked throughout the centre. To use one (or two), all you need is a mobile or a public telephone and a credit card. Call the DB hotline at tel. 0700 05 22 55 22 (0.06/min) to register and to get more information.

Haxnbauer H-3, Sparkassenstr., MMarienpl., tel. 216 65 40, www.haxnbauer.de. The crackling pork knuckle and suckling pig slowly turning on a beech charcoal rotisserie tempts many a passer-by to this old-fashioned Bavarian beerhall housed in an historic 14th century building. This meat eaters delight has its own butcher and specialises in different types of dark beer. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (8-16) AJ Marktstberl F-4, Zenettistr. 11, MPoccisstr, tel.
746 14 10. Weiwurst and Wiener sausage dont come any fresher than at this eatery-cum-butchers on the site of Munichs former slaughter house. Three grandmotherly women churn out hearty servings of beef roulade, Schweinebraten pig roast and fist-size pork knuckles. The coolest thing to order though is the trios famous potato salad, served only on Fridays with baked fish. Open 06:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (6-10) MGiselastr, tel. 39 00 92, www.zurbrezn.de. Authentic Bavarian cuisine with the menu divided into three categories grandmas kitchen, food from the farm and classics from swine. A popular cocktail house at night thanks to its location and the fact that it serves food until 02:30. Open 10:00 - 03:00. (7-15)

Planes
Munichs Franz Joseph Strau Airport lies 40km north of the city centre. As a major hub for global flights, it is not surprisingly a huge complex.There are six terminals labelled A-F with a Central Area, terminal Z. In general, each of the terminals on the ground floor has check-in desks, ticket counters, information booths, phones, cafs and shops and exits to parking lots, airport buses and taxis. Below all of this, is the heart of the airport with toilets, showers, more cafs, lost luggage (room B3307) and kilometres

Wirtshaus zur Brezn H-1, Leopoldstr. 72,

Welcome Card
Visitors who plan to do a fair bit of travelling and sightseeing in Munich can save money by purchasing the Welcome Card. It entitles holders to free travel on public transport inside the city, as well as reduced entry to many of the citys museums, palaces and other sights. A oneperson Welcome Card costs 6.50 for one day or 15.50 for three days (26 including the ride to and from the airport). If youre not travelling alone, the Partner ticket is a great deal at 9.50 for one day or 22.50 for three days (38 including the airport). Its valid for up to five adults (whereby two children between 6 and 14 count as one adult). The Welcome Card can be purchased at the tourist information offices, the airport service centre, as well as at many hotels.

Medieval
Ratskeller Mnchen C-2, Marienpl. 8, MMarienpl, tel. 219 98 90. Good-quality, inexpensive food and wine and great ambiance have made Ratskellers a real institution in Germany. Munichs family-run Ratskeller, one of the best, is typical. Ten cavernous rooms include the truly atmospheric Weinstube; head for the zither and accordion music. Beautifully-presented dishes are both international and Bavarian and the fish is particularly tasty. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (8-18) BEG 4 Instant Munich

Tourist information
Munich Tourist Office Marienplatz. Tel. 23 33 02 34, 23 33 02 04, fax: 23 33 03 37, www.muenchen-tourist.de. The Munich Tourist Office offer a wide variety of information and services. The staff are multi-lingual, helpful, and always ready to answer questions. Also at the Hauptbahnhof.

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French
Creperie Bernard Bernard D-3, Innere-Wiener-Str. 32, MRosenheimer Pl, tel. 480 11 73. For a taste of France and the best crepes in town, this typical Parisian restaurant is the place to go. Open 18:30 - 01:00. (3-8) Le Bousquerey I-4, Rablstr. 37, MRosenheimer Pl,
tel. 48 84 55. A mixture of modern and classic cuisine, Normandy-born Pierre Reyt cooks with only the finest ingredients. Open 18:00 - 01:00. (17-21)

Pflzer Residenz Weinstube H-3, Residenzstr.1, MOdeonspl., tel. 22 56 28, www.bayernpfalz.de. Enjoy Germanys best wines from the Pfalz Rhineland-Palatinate region in this historic building and wine cellar. The outdoor terrace has a spectacular view. Open 10:00 - 00:30; Sun 11:00 - 00:30. (6-11) G

Italian
Acquarello I-3, Mhlbaurstr. 36, MPrinzregentenpl., tel. 470 48 48, www.acquarello.com. Daily changing menu features some of the finest Italian cuisine plus some surprises, try pot-roast beef in barola sauce with celery puree followed by chocolate souffl with coffee sabayon. Pad your purses; were talking gourmet prices here. Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:30 23:00. Sat, Sun 18:30 - 23:00. (1929) AP h Buon Gusto Talamonti C-2, Hochbrckenstr. 3, MMarienpl, tel. 29 63 83. Barely a block away from the Hofbruhaus and resembling a tourist trap, it is actually valuefor-money and family-run. Buon Gusto serves some of the best Italian fare in town. Some evenings the singer/actor proprietor provides a musical digestive in the form of a Neapolitan classic. Open 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (14-20) A
MDietlindenstr., tel. 36 10 12 13, fax 36 13 067, www.grissini.com. One of the finest trattorie in Munich, this wonderful establishment in Schwabing sets high standards with its food, and has an accompanying wine list that is quite frankly to die for. Very popular, you will need to reserve, which you can do by phone or even online. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:30. (15-21) A

International
Am Marstall H-3, Maximillianstr. 16, MLehel, tel. 29
16 55 11. Prepare yourself for a fine dining experience with imaginative composition and flavour in this highly rated restaurant. Specialties include venison in pepper sauce, mussels carpaccio and lobster-turbot fricassee with saffron spiced vegetables. Open 12:00 - 14:00; 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. (25-44) A h

Nordsee B-2, Viktualienmarkt, MMarienpl, tel. 22 11 86, www.nordsee.com. How many fishmongers can claim to look out onto one of the worlds most famous markets and a beer garden to boot? This branch of the popular Nordsee chain lets you take your fish fare into Munichs most central beer garden, which is obliged to let you consume your own food so long as you buy a drink there. Standing room only. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 18:00. Closed Sun. (5-7)

Spanish
El Perro y el Griego J-4, Belfortstr. 14,
MOstbahnhof, tel. 48 25 53. El perro is the dog (Schnipsi, usually slouched in the doorway) and el griego is the Greek owner of this atmosphere-laden eatery. Yes, it took a Greek to open the very first Spanish restaurant in Munich, renowned for its tapas (over 30 varieties) and wide range of fish which includes shark, sea wolf and tuna. Fantastic. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. (7-13)

Le Gaulois Hrwarthstr. 4, MDietlindestr., tel. 36

74 35, www.legaulois.de. Monsieur Potente makes gorgeous galettes and crpes and his garlicky snails washed down with a glass of organic wine will tantalise your taste buds as never before. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (8-24) AG

Anna A-2, Schtzenstr. 1, MKarlspl., tel. 59 99 40,

German
Bratwurstherzl B-2, Dreifaltigkeitspl. 1, MMarienpl,
tel. 29 51 13. A treasure hidden on a quiet square just off the bustling Viktualienmarkt with daily Franconian specials, Nuremburger sausages are made on site and the beer is tapped from cask barrels. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (5-10) 77 53. The raw diamond amongst Munichs traditional restaurants. The chef claims to make the best blueberry pancakes in Munich and the Austrian Kaiserschmarrn, sugared pancake with raisins served with stewed apple, is certainly some of the best this side of the Alps. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (7-14)

www.annahotel.de. The number one venue in Munich right now: sushi bar, modern restaurant and nightspot rolled into one (and a fabulous hotel upstairs, see Where to Stay). This is exclusive but not for one moment pretentious, the food is modern European, the staff are perfectly supercilious, the maitre d is the smartest dressed man in Germany but you need not be to get in. Open 07:00 - 01:00. (5-17) A

Grissini - La Trattoria N-1, Helmtrudenstr. 1,

Thai
Khanittha 3 J-3, Kirchenstr. 96, MOstbahnhof,
tel. 54 80 47 66. Big brass knockers and golden statues welcome you at this Asian temple of a restaurant. Expect a serene Bhuddist atmosphere with exquisite hand-carved wooden icons. The delectable Thai dishes are served on unique green cabbage plates. The chef here is more daring than most Asians in Munich, who usually tone down to mild German tastes. Open 11:30 - 14:30; 18:00 - 01:00. (8-13) A MThalkirchen, tel. 723 20 31, www.mangostin.de. Theres no questioning the authenticity of this upmarket gastronomic experience - ingredients are flown in weekly from Bangkok. Action centres on the Bangkok Room, but theres also a colonial-theme bar and restaurant, a small Japanese eatery and an Asian garden. Reservations are essential. Open 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. Also at Munich airport. (10-23) A

Gasthaus Isartor C-3, Kanalstr. 2, MIsartor, tel. 22

Brding Schulstr. 9, MRotkreuzpl., tel. 16 42 38. Brdings

tel. 59 19 63, www.lamms.de. Perhaps one of the citys best after-hours establishments, the small hours sees a full house of revellers staving off the munchies and a desire to go to bed with sausages and big mugs of beer. Open 24hrs. (5-10) A

Lamms A-3, Sendlinger Tor Pl. 11, MSendlinger Tor,

reputation alone allows it to offer only one menu a day. Prepared with the very finest ingredients, the five-course special might offer partridge pat, roast venison with potato and topinambur (root vegetable) gratin followed by calvados parfait. Unless you really dont like wine, drink nothing else here. Connoisseurs of Austrian grape, the owners will match you the perfect drop (by the glass) to each dish. Watching the chef prepare your feast through a giant glass window also stimulates the saliva. Open 19:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (Menu 45) 09. Seasonal Mediterranean fare in a simple yet friendly environment make Kull a perennial favourite amongst insiders (including Olympic swimmer Franziska von Almsick) who shun the more expensive, chic eateries in town. The chef excels at fish and salads. Try his Filet Dorade, succulent gold brace grilled to perfection, and close with a mouth-watering creme brule or tarte tartin. Open 18:00 - 01:00. (14-17) AP

LAngolino J-4, Wrthstr. 16, MOrleanspl, tel. 48 44 99. Little Italy in frenchy Haidhausen, this delicatessen cum bistro is a great address for both eating in and taking away. Daily changing menus, served 11:00 - 16:00, are 100 percent fresh and cooked al dente in a range of tasty sauces. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. (5-8) G

Japanese
Considered by most to be Munichs best sushi, Shoya deals mostly in takeout, although there is a seating area too. They do such a brisk business they dont encourage you to linger. Especially if youve just had a few Ma at the famous Hofbruhaus beerhall across the way. Fair prices. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (3-15) A

Mangostin Asia Maria-Einsiedel-Str. 2,

Buffet Kull-Bar C-2, Marienstr. 4, MIsartor, tel. 22 15

Shoya H-3, Orlandostr. 5, MMarienpl., tel. 29 27 72.

Cafs
MGoethepl, tel. 54 40 43 48. Said to be the oldest caf in town, this is the epitome of the Viennese Kaffeehaus. Choose between the nightly jazz-to-classic live music, a pianist-accompanied Sunday brunch or simply relaxing in the surrounding chestnut-tree beergarden. Open 09:00 - 01:00. E 13 94 30 10. A super friendly owner and unpretentious coffee house flair are the pulling points of this caf. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Takumi H-3, Kanalstr. 14, MMarienpl./Lehel, tel. 21

Caf am Beethovenplatz A-3, Goethestr. 51,

Lenbach B-1, Ottostr. 6, MKarlspl., tel. 549 13 00,

Caf Piemonte B-2, Peterspl. 9, MMarienpl, tel.

www.lenbach.de. This drop-dead gorgeous, late 19thcentury mansion is inhabited by signs of the Seven Deadly Sins, created by interior designer Terance Conran. Chef Ali Gngrms nouvelle cuisine is known to local gourmands. After indulging your gluttony and perhaps greed, move your way to the bar at the end of the foyer, the scene of lust and sloth, especially at Wednesday after-work parties. Open 11:30 14:30, 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (12-26) A 7, MOlympiapark, tel. 30 66 85 85. Tuck into crab risotto, smoked salmon, prawns and frothed-up wild garlic at a dizzy height of 182m. Some prices could be a little more down to earth, but the panoramic views of the city and the Alps cannot be beaten. Open 11:00 - 16:30; 18:30 - 22:30. (13-24) A

94 99 70. If youve never sampled raw fish, give it a go at this restaurant, a longstanding favourite with expat Japanese. The sushi masters here certainly know their trade, dishing up a great variety of fish and rice-based dishes. The furnishings are very simple and the ambiance a bit cramped but the service is friendly. Open 12:00 - 14:30; 18:00 - 24:00. (12-31) A

Vegetarian
Basics C-2, Westenriederstr. 35, MIsartor, tel. 24 23 18 73. Whilst organically grown vegetables come at a premium here, this squeaky-clean eatery upstairs/ supermarket downstairs certainly fills a market gap for healthy livers in central Munich. The bar does great freshly pressed fruit juices. Open 11:30 - 18:00, Sat 08:30 - 16:00. (1.69 per 100g) Buxs C-3, Frauenstr. 9, MMarienpl, tel. 291 95 50. One of the few self-service restaurants in central Munich, Buxs is a vegetarians paradise with its nutritious line-up of bean and pulse-based dishes, freshly pressed juices and mouth-watering desserts. On warm days you can enjoy your pick n mix outdoors with a view of the Viktualienmarkt. Open 11:00 - 18:45, Sat 11:00 - 15:30. (1.85 per 100g) Das Gollier E-3, Gollierstr. 83, MSchwanthalerhhe, tel. 50 16 73. Crepes and pizza make nice enough starters, but the vegetable-pan main courses, served in 18 varieties straight out of a brick oven, are the prime players. Everything here is organic, even the beer. Open 12:30 - 15:00; 17:00 - 24:00, Sat 17:00 24.00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (7-9) AG 6 Instant Munich

Persian
Karawanserai A-1, Pettenkoferstr. 1, MSendlinger
Tor, tel. 54 54 19 54. A delightful ivy-clad inside yard makes for an almost fairy tale-like setting. Enjoy oriental delights such as vegetable-filled pastries and lamb fillet nibbles on a skewer rounded off with a generous scoop of Persian ice cream. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (8-17) A

Olympiaturm Drehrestaurant L-1, Spiridion-Luis-Ring

Caf Rothmund F-4, Rothmundstr. 5,

MGoetheplz., tel. 53 50 15, www.rothmundcafe.de. Spacious Rothmund is a great all-day diner with modest prices and breakfast served until 15:00. Open 10:00 - 01:00; Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

Tantris H-1, Johann-Fichte-Str. 7, MDietlindenstr., tel. 361

Renner B-2, Marienplatz 8, MMarienpl., tel. 24 23

12 07. Right under the Glockenspiel, this caf is your window to Marienplatz. With its charming mother-and-son staff, Caf Renner is too good just to grab and go. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

95 90, www.tantris.de. This gourmet restaurant boasts a famous chef and head waiter, with wine experts to guide you along with amazing food and a timeless presentation. The black, orange and red 1970s ambience has reached cult status in Munich. Specialties include lamb with fennel and veal baguette with shiitake mushrooms. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:30 - 01:00. Closed Sun, Mon. (30-44; lunch menus 60-85, dinner menu 110-128) A h

Seafood
La Bretagne I-4, Rablstr. 37, MRosenheimer Pl, tel. 48
72 20. Deep in the heart of Munichs French quarter, this intimate little establishment specialises in Breton cuisine. Using only the freshest ingredients, Monsieur Bousquet serves a seafood storm featuring six to eight varieties of fish. Leave some room for desserts, which include a thick slab of homemade chocolate cake bathed in vanilla sauce. Open 18:00 - 22:00. (17-19) A

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Nightlife Bars
Bar Centrale C-2, Ledererstr. 23, MMarienpl, tel. 22 37 62. Oldy worldy and shabby, this unpretentious, inexpensive place features amongst Playboy magazines Gastronomic Top 200. If the bar area is full, try the cosy lounge at the back. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. (7-10) Indian Bar G-3, Sebastianspl. 3, MMarienpl., tel. 260
55 58. An all-ages favourite, India Bar is great for chilling out after an afternoon touring the nearby Stadtmuseum. The lineup of whisky, rum and cocktails is one of the longest in town and includes waka tonka, an irresistible mixture of dark rum, lemon juice and grenadine. Asian/Mexican fusion includes tasty oatmeal tortillas stuffed with vegetables. Open 17:00 - 01:00.

Schumanns B-2, Maffeistr. 6, MMarienpl, tel. 24 21 77 00. With a 20 year-tradition of attracting the rich and famous, Schumanns is the place to eavesdrop on the likes of actors and ex-tennis champions as they perch at the bar sipping ridiculously expensive cocktails. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (6-11) Schwabinger 7 H-2, Feilitzschstr. 2, MMnchner
Freiheit. Slum it at Munichs grungiest dive, surprisingly located in the trendy Schwabing district. The ruin of a pub has pitch black wooden walls (fire? nicotine stains?), the only decoration being the names of lovers carved into the walls. Fab and cheap. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.

An institution
Hofbruhaus C-2, Platzl 9, MMarienpl, tel. 22
16 76, www.hofbraeuhaus.de. Despite popular lore, its not just beer guzzlers from abroad that make the pilgrimage to this holiest of brewing sites - the Germans visit in droves (even Bavarians), because as the song says: wie schn ists im Hofbruhaus! So grab your litre beer mug, eat your sausages and schnitzel or sing and dance in Munichs most sacred institution. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. (6-12) AE

Brewery houses
Andechser am Dom B-2, Weinstr. 7,
MMarienpl, tel. 29 84 81. The location on a shady square behind the Frauenkirche is perhaps appropriate the monks of the Andechs cloister just outside the city have been producing one of Germanys strongest beers, a double bock, since the 14th century. Great food too. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (9) A MMarienplatz, tel. 291 94 50. The best of both worlds; a location adjacent to the Frauenkirche and Munichs most beloved Helles beer, Augustiner. Extremely cheap prices for this part of town. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (4-9)

Augustiner am Dom B-2, Frauenplatz 8,

Pubs
Atzinger H-2, Schellingstr. 9, MUniversitt, tel. 28 28
80. Packed with card and chess-playing students, Atzinger serves loads of inexpensive Bavarian Schmatzerl, delicious morsels such as Weiwurst (veal sausage) or Reibedatschi, crispy potato fritters. Open 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (5-10)

L Bar C-2, Wurzerstr. 18, MLehel, tel. 24 25 77 77,

Nachtcaf G-2, Maximilianpl. 5, MKarlsplatz, tel. 59 59 00, www.nachtcafe-muenchen.de. If youre looking for a classy late night club without a bunch of teenyboppers, this is the place for you. Theres live music here every night and its always packed. Dancing area available. Open 20:00 - 06:00. Admission 5. Parkcaf F-2, Sophienstr. 7, MKarlspl., tel. 59 86 79,
www.parkcafe.de. This trendy club is housed in a historical building and includes a restaurant, caf, beergarden and a disco. It doesnt get hopping until late, but when it does the atmosphere is fantastic. Open Wed, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. (5-10)

www.l-bar.de. More upmarket than the snootiest five star hotel bar, this dark venue offers high-backed leather benches, a huge humidor, a fine selection of champagne and whisky. Asian delicacies from the adjoining restaurant are also available. Open 17:00 - 03:00. 22 22, www.l-lounge2.de. Although housed in the huge Mathser cinema complex, this bar is hipper than the typical cinema bar. Big screens on practically every surface show music videos in this minimalist hangout with bubbly empty fish aquariums. Open 17:00 - 01:00.

L-Lounge2 G-3, Bayerstr. 3-5, MKarlsplatz, tel. 51 26

Kilians Irish Pub B-2, Frauenpl. 11, MMarienpl, tel. 24 21 98 99, www.kiliansirishpub.moonfruit.com. All of the usual suspects can be seen at this pub - boisterous youths, casual expats and bar staff with funny accents of a non-German variety. Things liven up in the evenings with regular live acts bringing in the crowds. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 02:00. (7-10) AE Molly Malones D-3, Kellerstr. 21, MRosenheimer Pl, tel. 688 75 10. Winner of the Guinness 1999 Irish Pub of the Year award, this friendly place surely does the best fish n chips in town. Whiskey drinkers good luck - you have 130 different sorts to choose between. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (6-10) A Ned Kellys B-2, Frauenpl. 11, MMarienpl, tel. 24
21 99 10. If you prefer Aussie to Irish, take a right at the bottom of the stairs. Live sports on the big screen is the usual draw for the expat community and VB in cans. Open 12:00 - 01:00. (8-10) A

Augustiner Grogaststtte B-2, Neuhauserstr. 27, MKarlspl., tel. 23 18 32 57, www.augustinerrestaurant.com. Gro, meaning big, is an understatement - a gross one. You could walk around this restaurant and beer hall for days, turn a corner and find another room or hidden courtyard beer garden with excellent beer and food, of course. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (8-12) A Augustinerkeller F-2, Arnulfstr. 52, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 59 43 93, www.augustinerkeller.de. Considered one of the most historic and beautiful beer gardens in Munich, the Augustinerkellers 5,000 seats are usually full in summer. The restaurant serves Bavarian specialities and best of all, Augustiner Helles tapped fresh from a wooden barrel. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (6-18) A Donisl B-2, Weinstr. 1, MMarienpl, tel. 22 01 84. Munich doesnt have to be expensive declares a sign at the entrance and Donisl pledges to fill you up for no more than 6.95. Tourists on the ground floor, the locals and businessmen above and the accordion player at the back. Open 09:00 - 24:00. Lwenbrukeller F-2, Nymphenburgerstr. 2,
MStiglmaierpl., tel. 52 60 21, www.loewenbraeukeller.com. Enter a Bavarian Baroque atmosphere with vaulted ceilings and archways to quench your thirst with world famous Lwenbru beer. Open 09:00 - 01:00. (6-19) A MKolumbuspl., tel. 459 91 30, www.paulaner-amnockherberg.com. This restaurant boasts the best starkbier (strong dark beer), Salvator. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (5-18) AGP

Kultfabrik
This huge complex of clubs, bars and eateries has a little something for everyone. Take U-Bahn U5 to Ostbahnhof and exit at the rear to reach the venues at Grafingerstrae 6. Americanos If you can navigate your way through the masses
of sweaty dancers and drinkers, youll be rewarded with a small lounge to relax in which is perhaps even more packed. Your safest bet for a party. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00

MRosenheimer Pl., tel. 48 95 30 50, www.leoslounge.de. If youve had enough paying outrageous sums for cocktails and crave a burger, you might like to visit one of Munichs best American restaurants and bars. A long list of nicely priced cocktails are available in sizes up to XXL. The 9 all-you-can-eat buffet kicks off at 20:00 on Mondays. Open 09:00 - 01:00. A

Leos Lounge I-4, Rosenheimerstr. 98,

Pussers New York Bar C-2, Falkenturmstr. 9,

Apartment 11 Like a house party in an old abandoned

building, the bare walls and lack of dcor encourage a wild, noholds-barred party atmosphere. This club is often packed to the point of bursting. Open Fri 22:00 - 07:00, Sat 23:00 - 07:00 Admission 6.

MMarienpl, tel. 22 05 00, www.pussersbar.de. This dark bar with a nautical theme specialises in arguably the worlds best cocktail - the Painkiller, created in the Soggy Dollar Bar on the island of Jost van Dyke in the Caribbean. Pub food and key lime pie available. Live piano Tue - Sat 21:30 02:00. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. (10 - 13) AE

Ryans Muddy Boot L-2, Schlrstr. 10, MRotkreuzpl., tel. 0171-740 33 62, www.ryans-muddyboot.net. This charming little Irish pub will certainly cure your homesick blues. It meets all the requirements: pub quizzes, live music, posters of famous Irish writers, and Guinness, of course. Open 16:00 - 01:00.

Paulaner am Nockherberg H-4, Hochstr. 77,

Garage Deluxe, www.garagedeluxe.de. Taking the

term garage rock quite literally, this live music club is modelled after a car garage, and is filled with the bodies of oldtimers (even a Trabant), as well as those of enthusiastic partygoers. Lve music twice a week. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. AE

Red Sax C-1/2, Residenzstr. 3, MOdeonspl, tel. 29 16 20 12. If Red Sax were a mixed drink its recipe would read one part outdoor caf, one part grotty bar, one part popular cocktail club with a twist of crystal chandeliers and gambling machines. In any case, its big and has no trouble filling the space with promotions like 1.50 shots. Open 11:00 - 04:00.

Clubs
Atomic Caf C-2, Neuturmstr. 5, MMarienplatz, tel. 30 77 78 70, www.atomic-cafe.de. This club decked out in 70s retro decor offers different theme nights to suit your mood: hip hop, funk, garage punk and soul. Open 22:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5. Chicas M-2, Bltenstr. 4, MUniversitt, tel. 27 37 58
06. Only in Schwabing, or Athens, could you find a place like this. The concept is simple: listen to live music while eating tzaziki and dolma. Schneider Weisse on draught. Open 20:00 05:00, Tue, Wed, Sun 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. E 35 35, www.frankies-diskothek.de. Hip Hop, Soul, Reggae and RnB. Top DJs and acts perform and theme parties are organised, like Jungle Fever where drinks, food and even condoms are passed out free of charge. Open 21:00 - 05:00, Thu, Fri 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Kokoro Dance and house music attracts a young crowd. This

is one of the more stylish bars on the Kultfabrik grounds, with white and grey walls mixing nicely with the red curtains. Open Thu 22:00 - 03:00, Fri 22:30 - 03:00, Sat 22:30 - 09:00. A

Paulaner Bruhaus F-4, Kapuzinerplatz 5, MGoethepl, tel. 544 61 10. If you want to avoid the tourist trail, take a short metro ride for local food and men in lederhosen then soak up the atmosphere of parquet floors, intricate tile work and stained glass ceilings in the brewpub. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (5-15) A Spatenhaus an der Oper C-1/2, Residenzstr. 12,
MOdeonspl, tel. 290 70 60. Flanked by the opera and the former residence of Bavarian royalty. Bavarian treats like pork knuckles, seasonal dishes for the gourmet and standard sausages and sauerkraut plus one of Germanys best known brewers since 1896. Open 09:30 - 24:00. (9-17) A

Caf bars
Caf by day, hip, hot and happening by night. Heres our pick...
38 38 06 00, www.newscafemunich.de. The headline is that this caf has one of the funkiest interior designs on the strip and patrons to match. Breakfast, sandwiches, pastas and, yes, plenty of cocktails are all on offer. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. A

Living4, www.living4.de. Almost all available space is utilised by an unpretentious crowd anxious to dance to Latin beats, house, hip hop or anything else the DJ spins. Open Thu 22:00 - 05:00. Admission free. New York Tabledance, tel. 61 30 44 44,
www.newyorktabledance.de. An authentic New York-style strip club with not just women strippers but also some extremely muscular men working the poles. The shedding of clothes never stops and a lap dance costs as little as 10. Great fun for boys, girls and couples. Open 22:00 - 06:00. Admission 13. A

News Caf H-1, Leopoldstr. 74, MUniversitt, tel.

Frankies H-1, Leopoldstr. 23, MUniversitt, tel. 34

Weisses Brauhaus C-2, Tal 7, MMarienpl, tel. 290 13 80, www.weisses-brauhaus.de. Many brews have gained notoriety in Munich and the world, but Schneider Weisse stands out with its casual beer hall and, most of all, its unusual milky brown brew. Open 07:00 - 02:00. (5-15) AE 8 Instant Munich

Instant Munich 7

Essential sights Buildings & Squares

Frauenkirche B-2, Frauenplatz, MMarienpl, tel. 290
08 20. If one takes into account its two onion-domed towers, this giant late-Gothic building, built from 1468 - 1488, is nearly as tall (98.5m) as it is long (109m) and is Munichs defining landmark. Climb the towers for a great view of the centre. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. German-language tours (3.50) at 14:00. Tower (3.50/1.50) open 10:00 17:00, closed Sun.

The Pinakothek
Three of the top museums in Germany are grouped together north of the Old Town. If you have the stamina, see them all in one day; a day ticket valid for all three costs 12/7. Alte Pinakothek G-2, Barer Str. 27, MTheresienstr, tel. 23 80 52 16, www.alte-pinakothek.de. One could spend all day looking at the works of old Dutch, Spanish, Italian, French and German masters in this expansive museum. Expect to see paintings by all of the heavy hitters - Da Vinci, El Greco, Rembrandt, Brueghel, Raphael, Drer and a huge selection of Rubens. Free audio guide. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Tue 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3.50. Neue Pinakothek G-2, Barer Str. 29, MTheresienstr., tel. 23 80 51 95, www.neuepinakothek.de. Equally as impressive as the Old (Alte) one above. Sculptures by Rodin occupy many of the niches around the building which features the works of a few artists you may have heard of, namely Manet, Monet, Renoir, Degas, van Gogh, Klimt, Munch and others. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission 5/3.50. Pinakothek der Moderne G-2, Barer Str. 40, MTheresienstr, tel. 23 80 53 60, www.pinakothek-dermoderne.de. The museum is divided into four sections dedicated to art, graphics, architecture and design. If art is your passion than enjoy Matisse, Dali, Warhol, Kandinsky and, of course, Pablo. Even the toilets are funky in this architectural tribute to all things modern.

Essential Munich
Munich has an amazing range of sights, and it's hard to make a choice of what to see if you're only in town for a short time. A stroll through the centre, visiting Marienplatz, Frauenkirche, the Hofbruhaus and the Rezidenz Palace. The beautiful Englischer Garten park shouldn't be missed ei ther, and make sure you see the Eisbach surfers in action there. Art fans are spoilt for choice - the best museums in town include the three Pinakothek art museums and the Bavarian National Museum. Egyptian Art Museum (Museum gyptischer Kunst) C-1/2, Residenzstr. (entrance from Hofgarten),

Palaces
Nymphenburg Palace K-1, Amalienburg, tel. 17 90 80, www.schloesser.bayern.de. It is hard to believe that one of Germanys loveliest baroque palaces started life as a modest summer villa for the Bavarian monarchy back in 1664. The palace is a majestic, semicircular construction, stretching 500m from one wing to the other. The central structure contains sumptuous galleries, a collection of sleighs and carriages and the Museum of Man and Nature (Museum Mensch und Natur), worth visiting if youre with children. Theres also Ludwig Is Gallery of Beauties featuring 36 local ladies, some said to have been the kings mistresses. One of these, court dancer Lola Montez, a ferocious lady with a belt of snakes around her waist and a whip in hand, actually cost him the throne. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 6.50/5 (only Palace 3.50/2.50) Residenz C-1/2, Residenzstr. 1, MOdeonspl, tel. 29
06 71, www.schloesser.bayern.de. Built through the 16th to 19th centuries, this massive, fortress-like palace was the seat of the Bavarian rulers from 1385 to 1918. It would take several days to explore everything in this unusual complex of buildings. If you have time, visit the lavishly decorated Old Residence Theatre, perhaps the finest rococo theatre in Europe. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 5/4 (ticket valid for both Residenz and Treasury 8).

Karlsplatz A-2, MKarlspl. The Piccadilly Circus or Times

Square of Munich, Karlsplatz is dominated by a giant modern fountain where youll find locals and tourists jostling to wet their toes in summer. Karlstor (Karls Gate) is your starting point for the Altstadt and, since 1972, the pedestrian precinct.

Knigsplatz F/G-2, MKnigspl. Spacious and majestic, flanked by three neo-classic temples, this square has been nicknamed Athens-on-the-Isar. The structure, commissioned under Ludwig I to house several art museums, took on a sinister role from 1933-35 when Hitler paved the grassy, treelined square to stage his National Socialist rallies.
citys patron saint, Munichs main square marks the heart of the old town and is dominated by the neo-Gothic New City Hall (Neues Rathaus). Buskers and artists perform for the crowds waiting to see the Rathaus Glockenspiel, one of the largest carillons in Europe, which rings out at 11:00, 12:00 and 17:00. Accompanying the chimes are 32 figures presenting scenes from Munichs history. The central tower viewing platform, reached by 55 steps (or by elevator), offers a fantastic views. The Old Town Hall (Altes Rathaus) is no less picturesque.

MOdeonspl, tel. 29 85 46, www.aegyptischesmuseum-muenchen.de. Read a well-preserved papyrus copy of the Book of the Dead or letters written to Pharaoh Amenophis IV on rock tablets. Look at Coptic art, mummy portraits from the Roman period or sarcophagi from various epochs. The truly outrageous erotic art illustrates the ancient Egyptian penchant for exaggeration. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00, Tue 09:00 - 17:00, 19:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3.50/2.50.

Marienplatz B-2, MMarienpl. Named after Mary, the

Museums
MLehel, tel. 211 24 01, fax 21 12 42 01, www.bayerisches-nationalmuseum.de. This architectural wonder of a building is an exhibit in and of itself and it houses a fabulous collection of religious art from as early as the 11th century through the medieval period. Of the older pieces, dont miss the Scandinavian box made of bronze and mammoth tusk ivory that somehow made its way to lower Germany and a large skeleton riding a lion symbolising Death on the prowl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3/2.

Bavarian National Museum (Bayerisches National Museum) D-1, Prinzregentenstr. 3,

Knigspl., MKnigspl., tel. 28 92 75 03. King Ludwig I, who is nearly completely responsible for all things great in Munich, built this museum in 1830 to house all of the souvenirs that he pillaged while on holiday. Of particular note are the reclining Satyr with all of his important parts intact, the fantastic Roman floor mosaic (now on the wall) and the saucy erotic sculpture hidden away in a niche so as not to offend. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3/2. MFraunhoferstr., tel. 20 00 96 93, www.juedischesmuseum-muenchen.de. This small museum in the Munich Jewish Institute offers the chronology of Judaism in the city from the first mention of Jews being killed in the streets in 1285 to their return after WWII. Explanations are in English and its a good idea to bring identification for security reasons. Open Tue 14:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 12:00, 14:00 - 18:00, Thu 14:00 20:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun, Mon. Admission free.

Glyptothek (Greek and Roman sculpture) G-2,

Residenz Treasury (Schatzkammer)

Residenzstr. 1, MStarnberg, tel. 29 06 71. Its a little known fact that the phrase diamonds are a girls best friend was coined by a tourist looking at the elaborate crown of Queen Therese von Bayern which is completely encrusted in the shimmering bits of compressed carbon. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 5/4 (valid for both Residenz and Treasury 8).

Tours
Johns Bavarian Tours Auerfeldstr. 20, tel. 016 23
20 73 23, www.johns-bavarian-tours.com. John, an American expat seduced by Munich in 1978 now bestows his love and knowledge of the area to dedicated tourists in tailormade tours. He can take you and up to seven others in a private car to the mountains, castles, monasteries and churches that litter the city and her surroundings.

Parks & Gardens

Botanical Garden K-1, Menzinger Str. 65, tel. 17 86 13 50, www.botanik.biologie.uni-muenchen.de/ botgart/d/default.html. The Arboretum at the west end of the gardens is cleverly landscaped to resemble different climatic regions of the world with their appropriate flora. You can experience pine forest, Arctic tundra, heath and moorland, desert dunes, steppes and Alpine country all in one stroll. Round off your visit with refreshments between potted palm trees at the Schlocaf next to the palace. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 2/1. Englischer Garten C/D-1, MUniversitt, tel. 34 19
86. The first European public garden and one of the largest city parks in the world, this 373-hectare park is the citys green lung stretching over 5km along the River Isar. It was constructed in 1789 by Karl Theodor, Munichs least popular ruler, who feared his subjects might have similar revolutionary ideas as the French unless he placated them. The first Peoples Garden on the continent is indeed a great place for strolling and people watching, even in the bleak mid-winter.

Jewish Museum G/H-3, Reichenbachstr. 27,

Mikes Bike Tours C-2, Hochbrckenstr.,

Centre for Unusual Museums (ZAM - Zentrum fr Auergewhnliche Museen) B-2,

Westenriederstr. 41, MMarienpl., tel. 290 41 21, www.zam-museum.de. Unusual is an understatement, but if youd like to see small museums dedicated to topics as diverse as the Easter bunny, commodes and toy cars then it is worth the money. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 4/3. 1, MMarienpl., tel. 23 32 23 70, www.stadtmuseumonline.de. Founded in 1888, the museum hosts a variety of exhibitions, but permanent exhibits include the puppet and carnival art halls feature some eclectic materials including Beatles puppets, a smash Hitler shooting game and displays which suddenly spring to life taking a few years off your life.

Palaeontology Museum (Palontologisches Museum) F-2, Richard-Wagner-Str. 10, MStiglmaierpl.,

tel. 21 80 66 30. Lock horns with a triceratops, hitch a ride with a pterodactyl or schmooze with a prehistoric moose at this small university museum. Other funky creatures include a sabre-toothed tiger, a giant woolly mammoth with its tusks intact and a petrified tree nearly 5m tall. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. First Sunday of the month 10:00 - 16:00. Admission free.

MMarienpl., tel. 25 54 39 88/0172 792 33 31, [email protected], www.mikesbiketours.com. Tour options include a standard tour of Munich (22, 4hours), and a longer, all-day tour (33, 7hours) and bike rental (12/day). Open 10:00 - 20:00. A

City Museum (Stadtmuseum) B-2, St.-Jakobs-Pl.

Munich Walk Tours , tel. 0171-274 02 04, www.munichwalktours.de. A variety of tours, including an introductory city walk, tours of Hitlers Munich, breweries, and trips to Dachau and Nymphenburg palace. Tours 8-20.
The fairytale castles of Bavaria are some of the best visited and best-known sights of Germany, and a daytrip from Munich to see one of them and learn more about the King Ludwig who had them built is certainly worthwhile. Ironically, the money that Ludwig had supposedly wasted on castles has been returned thousand fold through th e tourist industr y. Neuschwanstein is the most photographed castle in the world, and was the inspiration for the Disney. See www.inyourpocket.com for further details.

Winter wonderland
When it comes to winter sports, many Germans prefer to travel to Austria or Switzerland, where snow is guaranteed. However, some beautiful German towns provide great skiing resorts and service in stunning landscapes. Munich is lucky enough to be withing easy reach of a trip to the snow, as the resorts in the Bavarian Alps are only a 1-2hr train or car ride away. And even if you dont ski, theres plenty to see and do.

Hellabrunn Zoo Tierparkstr. 30, MThalkirchen, tel. 62 50 80, www.zoo-munich.de. If youve always wanted to come face to face with a tarpan or a gnu, heres an opportunity. This zoo specialises in breeding animals that are under threat of extinction. It has over 5,000 animals representing 480 species, which are grouped according to their natural and geographical habitats. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 7/5.50. Instant Munich 9

MIsartor, tel. 217 91, www.deutsches-museum.de. You could spend days wandering around a 16km path spread over six floors in the largest technical museum in the world. Live demonstrations and do-it-yourself, hands-on experiments make this museum fun for all ages. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 7.50/3. Wed after 16:00 3.

Deutsches Museum C-3, Museumsinsel 1,

10 Instant Munich

Hotels
The categories are based on the rack rate of the cheapest double room. Confirm the price with the hotel before booking.

125-200
fax 216 31 90, [email protected], www.hoteladvokat.de. Celebrated as the first design hotel in Munich, the eccentrically elegant Advokat is for the guest who prefers the modern, minimalist touch to luxury. Enjoy paparazzi-eye views of the fashionable Grtnerplatz district from the roof, a bottomless minibar and a superb all-you-can eat breakfast buffet. 50 rooms (17 singles 130, 32 doubles 150, 1 apartment 170 - 210). AGR hhh

Advokat C-3, Baaderstr. 1, MIsartorpl., tel. 21 63 10,

29 60 59, [email protected], www.hotelschlicker.de. Interestingly juxtaposed between the Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Ghost) and the Hofbruhaus, this family-run hotel aims to give you the best of both worlds. The quietest rooms overlook the yard and all boast modem access. 68 rooms (28 singles 85 - 115, 37 doubles 105 - 170, 2 junior suites 200). AR

Schlicker C-2, Tal 8, MMarienpl., tel. 242 88 70, fax

More hotels at: www.inyourpocket.com

61, fax 28 43 91, [email protected], www.rennerhotel-ag.de. Luxury is the buzzword at this traditional hotel, which counts professors, princes and politicians amongst its regulars and serves champagne and smoked salmon for breakfast at no extra charge. Heaped with homey fittings, a wellness centre and some of the plushest curtains in town, Carlton will spoil you silly. 49 rooms (13 singles 77, 16 doubles 87). ADFGR hhh

Carlton C-1, Frstenstr. 12, MOdeonspl., tel. 28 20

Seibel E-3/4, Theresienhhe 9, MTheresienwiese, tel.

540 14 20, fax 54 01 42 99, [email protected], www.seibel-hotels-munich.de. Bang opposite the Theresienwiese, youd be surprised how peaceful rooms are here. Seibel offers five-star comfort at three-star prices - so you can blow the difference on beer. Overlooking a leafy garden, this cosy place is also popular with business folk. 64 rooms (64 singles 59 - 159, 64 doubles 79 - 199, triples 89 219). AG hhh

Over 200
Anna A-2, Schtzenstr. 1, MKarlspl., tel. 59 99 40, fax
59 99 43 33, [email protected], www.geisel-hotels.de. If both style and substance are important to you then look no further than Anna. Its large, modern rooms furnished in subtle navy, maroon and gold colours are a stark contrast to the lime green hallways, but somehow it works. All rooms include funky fixtures and a minibar which you can empty free of charge. The trendy bar/ restaurant on the ground floor is always packed in the evenings. 56 rooms (52 singles 125 - 195, 52 doubles 145 215, 4 junior suites 175 - 255). ADFGKPRU

Aurbacher Aurbacherstr. 5, MRosenheimerpl., tel. 48 09 10, fax 48 09 16 00, [email protected], www.hotel-aurbacher.de. Personal comfort and IT facilities are the trump cards of this recently revamped fourstar hotel in the middle of pretty Haidhausen. Whilst the 60 fax and modem-fitted rooms cater mainly for the single business traveller, Laura Ashley fans should not feel out of place here amongst a study of pastel-coloured deco and furnishings. 60 rooms (28 singles 70 - 110, 28 doubles 80 - 140, 2 triples 95 - 150). ABGRU hhhh
32 40, fax 54 32 41 11, [email protected], www.hotel-jedermann.de. Considering its great location, its friendly, family-run service and its prices youd be a fool not to stay here, but book in advance as it was voted the 18th mostliked hotel in its class in Germany. The rooms are a bit small but offer cable TV, phone, dataport, modern furnishings and connecting room doors for families. Rooms with shared facilities lack the amenities and flash but are comfortable and economical. 55 rooms (15 singles 35 - 107, 32 doubles 49 157, 8 triples 64 - 187). AGHPRU hhh

Exquisit A-3, Pettenkoferstr. 3, MSendlinger Tor, tel.

Jedermann A-2, Bayerstr. 95, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 54

551 99 00, fax 55 19 94 99, [email protected], www.hotel-exquisit.com. Certified smoke-free rooms are available and guests can tuck into a hearty breakfast of meats and cheeses in a smoke-free zone too. The bistro, also open to non-guests, does a superb Sunday brunch for under 10 a head. 50 rooms (5 singles 119 - 170, 34 doubles 160 - 205, 11 suites 195 - 245). ADGHRU hhhh

Splendid-Dollmann D-2, Thierschstr. 49, MIsartor, tel. 23 80 80, fax 23 808 365, [email protected], www.srs-worldhotels.com. Small and sophisticated, the revamped Splendid is a first-class alternative to the large grand hotels and a firm favourite with actors and film directors. Its stately home-like rooms, filled with baroque mirrors, oil paintings and Louis XVI chairs, provide the perfect backdrop for a romantic stay. 38 rooms (38 singles 100, 38 doubles 130). Breakfast 10.50. AR hhh
42 35, [email protected], www.torbraeu.de. Munichs oldest hotel, housed in a medieval building dating back over 500 years. Run by the same family for nearly a century, its recently renovated standard rooms are by its own admission, small but charming and its luxury rooms are more spacious with added amenities like a fully stocked minibar free of charge. 92 rooms (38 singles 130, 38 doubles 165, 7 triples 195, 3 suites 225). AGHKPR hhhh

Eder A-2, Zweigstr. 8, MHauptbahnhof, tel./fax 55 46 60, [email protected], www.hotel-eder.de. This is as good as it gets in downtown Munich. A quiet side street, but just a proverbial stones throw from the Hauptbahnhof. Smallish rooms, all with private facilities, and some that can sleep three or four. The breakfast buffet is very good and staff as friendly as can be. 30 rooms (27 singles 45 - 55, 27 doubles 65 - 80, triples 90 - 120, quads 100 - 130). A hh Prinz D-4, Hochstr. 45, MRosenheimer Pl., tel. 441 40 80, fax 441 40 83 33, [email protected], www.hotel-prinz.de. This newly built, classy hotel run by Herr and Frau Durow is reputed for individual service. Its central - the Deutsches Museum and Gasteig Arts Centre are a stones throw away - and yet very peaceful. Theres an allorganic breakfast buffet and a cosy little French restaurant next door. Modern art fans should feel at home here amongst the regularly changing exhibitions, whilst rooms on the top floor offer a unique view over Munich. 40 rooms (40 doubles 80 95). Breakfast 12.50. AGHKPRU hhhh Seibels Park Hotel L-2, Maria-Eich-Str. 32, MPasing, tel. 829 95 20, fax 82 99 52 99, [email protected], www.seibel-hotels-munich.de. It seems no expense was spared beautifying this upmarket hotel next to Pasing Park. Each grand, Florentine villa-style room comes with a balcony and feels almost palatial. For sheer luxury, dont miss breakfast in the equally elegant dining room. 39 rooms (39 singles 69, 39 doubles 85, triples 99, quads 119). AG hhhh

Torbru C-2, Tal 41, MIsartor, tel. 24 23 40, fax 24 23

Le Mridien A-2, Bayerstr. 41, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 24 220, fax 24 22 11 11, [email protected], www.lemeridienmuenchen.com. Recently built around a beautiful, central courtyard, this is one of the citys best hotels. All rooms are spacious, decorated in soothing earth tones and most include flat-screen TV with internet access and large bathrooms. It also has the largest hotel pool in the city. The restaurants menu was created by a chef with two Michelin stars under his belt, and the bar hosts live music most evenings. 381 rooms (352 doubles 125 - 375, 29 suites 575 - 995). ACDFGHKPRU hhhhh Mandarin Oriental C-2, Neuturmstr. 1, MMarienpl., tel. 29 09 80, fax 22 25 39, [email protected], www.mandarinoriental.com. All rooms are incredibly spacious, decorated in subtle tones with the odd oriental vase as a kind of subliminal branding. In addition to cable TV, climate control, dataport and video or DVD players in standard rooms, suites have the added benefit of stereos, Play Stations, great views and a special button to summon housekeeping. Perhaps the best aspect of the hotel is the fact that its right next to the Hofbruhaus. 73 rooms (53 singles 280 - 380, 53 doubles 330 - 430, 6 suites 1100 1400, 14 junior suites 520 - 820). Breakfast 24. ACFGHKPRU hhhhh TRYP Mnchen F-3, Paul-Heyse-Str. 24,
MHauptbahnhof, tel. 51 49 00, fax 51 49 07 01, [email protected], www.solmelia.com. The hotel has changed ownership over the years but its latest incarnation is that of a modern, stylishly decorated business class hotel. Rooms are similar but differ in the amount of amenities offered. The most comfortable accommodation provides fax machines, fresh fruit, free minibar, a mobile phone and even slippers. Fitness centre, conference rooms and an impressive restaurant are also at your service. 201 rooms (8 singles 90 - 204, 164 doubles 105 - 219). ADFGHKRU hhhh

Mercure Altstadt B-2, Hotterstr. 4, MMarienpl., tel. 23 25 90, fax 23 25 91 27, [email protected], www.mercure.com. Located in the heart of the Old Town is this modern hotel with all the comforts of home. Glass bricks have been placed in the exterior walls of the hallways to produce more light and the rooms are also bright decorated in brown, beige and black colours. Cable TV, climate control, minibar, phone, dataport and writing desks are all standard. Its restaurant, The Fat Man, is a good choice for local cuisine. 74 rooms (11 singles 89 - 147, 59 doubles 109 - 196, 3 suites 150 - 248, 1 junior suite 130 - 215). AGHK hhh Pension Seibel Reichenbachstr. 8, tel. 231 91 80, fax 26 78 03, [email protected], www.seibelhotels-munich.de. Book into the top-most suite at this family-run hotel close to the Viktualienmarkt and enjoy a rooftop view of the Marienkirche. Each room is tastefully rustic, homey and spacious whilst several family apartments with kitchenette cater for up to five. Chirpy Frau Seibel dishes up a marvellous breakfast spread including oven-fresh cakes and patisseries. 20 rooms (20 singles 49 - 120, 20 doubles 69 139, triples 99 - 199, 3 apartments 145 - 300). AG
419 50 30, fax 41 95 03 50, [email protected], www.hotel-ritzi.de. Peacefully perched on a hill behind the Maximilaneum, this charming designer hotel boasts some of the most individually decorated bedrooms in town. Seafarers delight in the Maritime Room, with paddles on the wall and mussels in the picture frames. The trendy bar/restaurant serves a bountiful breakfast and the chef is a whizz-kid at EuroAsian cuisine. 24 rooms (3 singles 98, 21 doubles 150, 1 suite 200). AKR

Under 125
Am Markt C-2, Heiliggeiststr. 6, MMarienpl., tel. 22
50 14, fax 22 40 17, [email protected], www.hotelinmunich.de. No distance from the Viktualienmarkt, this small, unpretentious hotel enjoys a prime and peaceful location. Rooms are somewhat spartan and many lack en-suite facilities, but with rooms this cheap, whos complaining. The only noise likely to encroach upon your beauty sleep is the clanging of next doors church bells. 30 rooms (10 singles 38 - 66, 20 doubles 87 - 92, 4 triples 99 - 123). A

Airport hotel
Kempinski Airport Munich Airport, Terminalstr.
Mitte 20, MFlughafen, tel. 978 20, fax 97 82 25 13, [email protected], www.kempinski-airport.de. This five-star affair is so close to Munich Airport that you have a ringside view of the runway. Centred around a stylish, glasswalled atrium, the 389 excellently sound-proofed, all-mod-con rooms enjoy king-size beds, gargantuan mirrors and celebritystyle bathrooms. There are also two rather elegant restaurants; one specialises in international theme buffets, the other offers authentic Asian and Mediterranean cuisine against a designer garden backdrop. 389 rooms (389 singles 163 355, 389 doubles 163 - 355, suites 470 - 930, studio 410). Breakfast 24. ACDFGHKLPRU hhhhh

Hostels
Burg Schwaneck Pullach, Burgweg 4 - 6, tel. 74
48 66 70, fax 79 37 922, www.burgschwaneck.de. Wake up to the sound of the river Isar gurgling alongside this 150-year castle accommodation which, like so many youth hostels, enjoys a great location but is bit off the beaten track. 31 rooms (9 singles 23, 9 doubles 21, 14 quads 16, eight-bed room 15). A

Ritzi D-2, Maria-Theresia-Str. 2a, MMax-Weber-Pl., tel.

Jgers A-2, Senefelderstr. 3, MHauptbahnhof, tel.

www.inyourpocket.com

55 52 81, fax 59 25 98, [email protected], www.jaegershotel.de. Avertising its proximity to the Hofbrauhaus and just 80m from the Hauptbahnhof, Jgers has all the typical hostel features (ten-bed dorms) plus a few luxuries like telephone and cable TV in single and double rooms. No curfew, no age limit and a full-blown breakfast buffet. 34 rooms (5 singles 45 - 72, 4 doubles 78, 14 triples 69 - 96, dorm bed 17 - 23). A

Apartments
Mr. Lodge Barer Str. 32, tel. 340 82 30,
[email protected], www.mrlodge.de. Specialised in long-term rental of apartments, flats and houses in all areas of Munich. The minimum rental time is one month. Adresses and photos can be found on their website. (singles 900 - 1800, doubles 1300 - 3000, studios 600 - 1000).

Instant Munich 11

Instant Munich 12