Air Modeller 061 2015-08-09
Air Modeller 061 2015-08-09
Air Modeller 061 2015-08-09
61
AUGUST/SEPT 2015 • £6.50 UK $15.99
www.mengafvmodeller.com
AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015
MENG AIR MODELLER
FRESH
Focke Wulf
F-8
WE BUILD REVELL’S NEW 190
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CONTENTS
2 Lancaster
Revell’s 1:72 Lancaster modelled by Grega Krizman.
10 IRIAF Mig-29
Periklis Salessiotis builds the 1:48 Eduard kit in Iranian markings.
38 Unluckey Thirteen
Luc Janssen crash lands Eduard’s 1:32 Bf 109 E-7.
46 Air Born
New releases.
56 Super Scooter
Daniel Zamarbide describes how he built the veteran 1:32 Hasegawa Skyhawk
Lancaster
Grega Krizman builds the 1:72 Revell kit
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T
he Avro Lancaster is definitely the most
famous RAF heavy bomber of World
War Two. Born out of the failed
Manchester design, it became the most
successful night bomber of WW2. A total of
7.377 Lancaster were built, sadly, almost half of
them were lost in combat, but we all know the
history of this great plane, so let’s move on.
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Interior
The interior looks really nice and pretty well detailed
already, but some lead wiring and styrene was added to
make it look busier. I didn’t bother too much with detailing
as not much is visible once the fuselage is glued together.
The cockpit was sprayed with Gunze Tire Black and WEM
RAF Interior Light Green; dry brushed and weathered using
raw umber oil wash and pastels. To complete it some
knobs and switches were picked out with Vallejo colours
and seatbelts made from masking tape were added. With
the interior completed, the fuselage halves were glued
together. Seams were filled with mix of superglue and
baking powder and sanded smooth. Superglue sets hard
and doesn’t shrink, and the added baking powder makes
sanding easier so that you will never see that fuselage
seam again.
Operation wings
As mentioned already, one of the biggest flaws of this kit is
nonexistent wing dihedral. Fortunately this can be corrected
easily. All You need is a saw, some 0.5 mm styrene sheet,
4 filler and of course, a good set of plans. After some careful
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Painting
With all the major components corrected and primed, it was time
for my favourite part of model making. Gunze paints were used
thoroughly, thinned with Mr. Color Levelling thinner. For the upper
surfaces, H73 Dark Green and H72 Dark earth were used. First, I
airbrushed each one straight from the jar, but the second stage was
mixing really diluted base colours with a light shade of grey and
airbrushed through 0.15 mm nozzle really lightly over each center of
the rivet lines to create faded effect (and I hoped some illusion of
stressed metal as well). As for the lower camouflage, night black
was suggested, but I opted for Gunze H66 Tire black as a base
colour. This time two lighter shades were mixed (use light grey, not
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white) used again in the same manner as on the upper camouflage.
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Weathering
Weathering began with filters. Filters break the
uniformity of paint, add depth and soften the
transition between camouflage colours. I mixed my
own filters (dark green and brown) using enamel
paint and thinner (1:10 ratio – anything more and you
will end up with wash). After the filters were dry,
Washes followed. I tried AMMO weathering set (7416)
for the first time, and I was blown away with how easy
and effective those washes are. Especially stone grey
wash for black did a great job on the black
undersurfaces. The key to successful effect is to
dampen the area with turpentine (mild one) before
applying the wash and then about 10 minutes later,
remove the excess with soft brush moistened with
clean turpentine. Exhaust streaks were done using
really thinned black brown, buff and light grey. Finally
walkways were stained with black grey oil paints
applied with scuffed sponge. Then everything was
sealed with a coat of Mr. Color Semi gloss clear coat.
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IRIAF Mig-29
Periklis Salessiotis builds the 1:48 Eduard kit
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Original thoughts
The plan was to do a straight out of the plus a single tree of clear parts for the
box built focusing more on the external canopy and windscreen. Detailing is finely
appearance of the plane rather than scribed and there is no sign of flash or
adding much detail. The Mig-29 has been other molding problems in this release.
released a number of times by Academy The kit comes with a number of resin parts
and up until the introduction of the new for the cockpit and seat and two frets of
Great Wall Hobby MiG-29 it was the best photoetch with one coloured for the
kit in 1:48 scale. Saying that, the kit has a cockpit details and one for external and
number of issues that many hard core canopy details.
Mig-29 lovers can point out but the only Having seen a number of builds on the
alternative was Monogram's 1:48 MiG-29 internet I was aware of all the problems
which had even more issues! with the (ex-Academy) kit comes with and
Now Eduard have come along and taken decided to deviate from the instructions
the Academy MiG-29A and added their sequence. One extra item I added was the
unique twist providing a more interesting superb Quick Boost replacement nose,
new option. The kit is moulded in light grey and its on with the build.
styrene and presented on six parts trees
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Exhausts
The plan was to present heavily worn and was applied in light coats. The masking
used exhausts. Before painting began was then reversed and the remaining
small amount detail was added on the petals were dusted with light coats of clear
outer sides of the exhaust petals in the yellow. Excessive chipping with Mithril
form of thin plastic strips. The first painting Silver from the Games Workshop range
step was to apply a coat of gloss black on was applied with a fine brush. Finally after
both exhausts followed by a coat of steel a couple of days the exhaust received an
from the Gunze Mr Metal Color range for oil paint wash of brown and black to tone
the petals and aluminium for the forward down the chipping effect and bring all the
rings. After the exhausts were dry half of colours together.
the petals were masked and clear blue
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IRIAF Mig-29
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“f r e s h w e r k e”
I
am by nature not a very adventurous
modeller and I prefer to stick with my ‘fresh’ approach or ‘fresh werke’ if you will! their revolutionary Wet Transfer generic Fw
favourite tried and tested materials 190 markings which dispense with any
rather than experimenting with new I had for a long time wanted to try the decal film.
products. The release of Revell’s brand HGW Wet Transfer rivet system and the
new Fw190 however seemed like the smooth Revell Focke looked like a good Having picked an unusual bare metal
perfect opportunity for me not only to test candidate. I selected the HGW set 321017 scheme I decided to use the new AK
drive the kit but also to add some new which is designed for the Hasegawa Interactive Xtreme Metal Aluminium paint
products into the project to see how they Fw 190A/F-8 and which comes with a set and teamed this with Mr. Paint acrylic
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Luftwaffe colours. These are another very favourable with its excellent
new paint brand from Slovakia that I surface detail, well detailed cockpit
was keen to try. I was a little and optional canopies and underwing
apprehensive at trying out so many stores. All the control surfaces are
fresh products ‘publicly’ but this only separate but they have pegs that lock
served to add some excitement to a into place so some adjustment or
fairly straight forward build. bending of the pegs will be needed to
get any movement in them. The
Revell’s F-8 exception is the flaps which have a
This is a completely new tooling choice of raised or lowered versions.
release and my in the box review was
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1 2 3
Cowling construction glue the engine on its mounts and fit the upper cowling, checking
There are 9 pieces that make up the cowlings and getting them to that the exhausts are aligned with their outlets and that the upper
align correctly does as I feared take some effort. My attempt to do cowlings blend with the rest of the fuselage. Some play in the
so following the kits assembly sequences were unsuccessful so location of the engine is helpful in this. 3 Glue together the two
here is the approach that I used. 1 glue the pair of bulged side lower cowlings and check them against the cowling ring. Now fit
sections to the fuselage, checking the width of the open ends by the cowling ring. 4 Test fit the lower cowlings, some very slight
offering up the cowling ring to them. These parts have only a trimming / clean up of the rear edges was needed to get a good
small contact area with the rest of the fuselage so careful push fit which was then sealed with Mr Cement S. 5 Test fit the
alignment is critical. 2 Assemble the three upper cowling pieces upper gun cover. I found that I needed to add a plastic brace
(parts 40, 42 & 43) using the cowling ring again to check that the across the fuselage to spread the side walls for a better alignment
radius of them matches that of the cowling ring. When dry loosely with the cover
4 5
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In preparation for the HGW rivets the model was primed with an The HGW rivet system divides the rivets into manageable panels
airbrushed coat of Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500. This was then which are treated like a conventional decal but with a clear cover
polished with sanding sponges and a soft cloth to have a smooth film. The film is used to position the rivets and I applied so Mr Mark
surface for the natural metal finish. softer to help them adhere.
I used a cotton bud as a squeegee to push any liquid out from After two hours the clear film is peeled away leaving the tiny silver
under the clear film and the area was then left for two hours to dry. rivets in place on the wing. Any glue mark residue can be cleaned
The Clear film adheres to the model like a decal when dry away with water leaving a perfect finish.
Getting Shiny
I used the AK Interactive Xtreme Metal Aluminium straight
from the bottle having first given it a good shake. It
sprayed easily and covered very well. It behaved like a
denser Alclad and dried quickly like Alclad too but gave
me much better coverage. As you can see the finish is
certainly very shiny! I wanted a more worn oxidised finish
so I began applying a series of pale grey acrylic and oil
paint washes over the exposed bare metal areas.
Masking fluid was applied to the wing roots using a sponge.
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Removing the masking fluid from the wing roots gives a very harsh
contrast that will need more work. I used fine Micromesh cloth to rub down
the surrounding paint and give a more blended appearance. The cloth was
also used to wipe the tops of the rivets to expose them.
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Revell
www.revell.de/en
Mr. Paint
www.mrpaint.sk
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Fouga
Magister
Olivier Soulleys describes his build of
the Wingman Super-Kit
In the Wingman box we find the entire Kinetic kit (two full kits are
included) and the following ingredients:
- A set of about twenty resin parts including a complete cockpit, a
set of wheels with weighted tires, air intakes and wing tips for the
deletion of tip tanks.
- A photoetched fret adding to the original elements, including
instruments panel for both sides of the front and rear cockpit.
(Note that the resin parts and photoetched supplement detail only
one model, the other can be built as the standard Kinetic kit).
- A beautiful mask set for the canopy and painting sheme
template for the revised decals. The "Kabuki" paper is good, both
the sharpness of the cut and the adhesive power.
Wingman impressed me with a set of decals from Cartograf,
beautifully printed, giving you a choice of twenty attractive
schemes of which there are fifteen German aircraft, natural metal
finish or camouflage and five other Irish options. A complete
stencil sheet confirms some serious research work done by the
staff of Wingman.
The Wingman instruction sheet is provided for the additional parts
and is actually cleaner and more accurate than the Kinetic one,
including the proper positioning of small parts like the air scoop on
the fuselage and the angle of landing gear doors.
Finally, Wingman offer a small detail ‘photo file’ of real aircraft over
four colour A4 sheets. This model from the "Superkit Series" is a
limited edition of 500 kits.
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Busy cockpit
Work inside the cockpit starts by detailing realistic. The radio block and its support with the supplied decals. I dropped a small
the front and back instruments on the left are made with a combination of resin parts bead of white PVA glue on each of them to
side. Along with the photoetched parts, I and photoetch from the kit on which I suggest the glass. The connections from
added some small details with Evergreen added electrical connections. the rear instrument board are glued from
(rods and strips) and 0.23mm wire, I The seats are a very basic shape, their the back. These wires are fixed with
copied these from the photo leaflet padded backrest was painted dark brown cyanoacrylate in a fine drilled hole then
included in the kit. The throttles were also and harness in medium blue. Both oxygen painted grey with small touches of colour,
redone working from the photos. The main hose are painted light green and washed they add an incredible amount of realism
instrument panels received photoetched with black to enhance the detail. The two and interest to the cockpit.
features by copying the layout on the resin oxygen bottles are detailed with wire, With the rear instrument panel in place,
part which I decided not to use in favour of photoetched taps and other small details you must bend the cables down, they pass
my own scratchbuilt facias. accented with bright colours. Not much over the oxygen regulator and disappear
Both oxygen hoses were made with a unfortunately remains visible once installed behind the front seat.
section of guitar string, not easy to bend, under the rear dashboard however!
but the appearance is very fine and The two dashboards have simulated dials
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Slender airframe
After the usual dry-testing the fuselage The right angle of the"V" tail is obtained by The radio is installed inside the rear glass,
halves were assembled with extra thin an insert in the rear of the fuselage. A beware glue stains... The exemplary clarity
cement gradually starting from the top of small quantity of glue on top between the of the transparent parts allows the viewer
the fuselage to the rear end then up below inserts set everything in an accurate to appreciate the details inside but can
the nose. The remaining free space position. easily be spoilt with visible adhesive.
between the floor and the fuselage is filled
with small weights attached with white glue It’s nice to have separated rudders in 1/48, The canopies were fixed with xtra thin
to avoid a "tail sitter". first, it allows a realistic stance with thinner cement which can be used sparingly
You can have legitimate worries about the trailing edges because the part is moulded preventing any accidents. I found that
double curve joint between the wing and in one piece, and on the other hand, it there is an important filling job on the nose
the fuselage, but in fact it's accuraate, a assists the different painting steps and the junction of the air inlet to the
simple streak of extra thin cement along especially in this case. engine and fuselage. For that, I used the
the length with some tight pressure gives a De LUXE brand Perfect Plastic Putty. This
perfect result without a gap to fill. product is ideal for fine finishing work.
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"Kabuki" tape masks are surgically precise and identical to More masking in preparation The base of faded day-glo is made with
the kit parts. Their arrangement on the sheet is a good for the day-glo orange. A white mixed with light sand and
example of logic, no chance of using the wrong piece. I solid coat of flat white was progressively tinted with orange. This
systematically painted the canopy frames applying the applied as a base coat. produces a perfect faded base effect as
interior colour from the outside and a subsequent layer of seen in the reference photos.
matt black prevents light from showing through.
I applied a random mottling on the areas The underside of the aircraft was not as exposed to light, the
most exposed to daylight with an airbrush. reference photos showing a much stronger day-glo colour
The day- glo red is Prince August AIR 83 replicated by a heavier coverage of the red.
thinned in order to manage the right
density of the colour and applying fine
transparent coats.
With the day-glo masked it's time to apply a first coat of Tamiya
TS30 from the spray can. Let the can stand in a bowl of hot water
for several minutes, this helps the flow of the paint resulting in a
smoother finish. This shade is applied in several thin layers. After a
few retouched areas there were still visible some sanding marks,
and total of three attempts were made before getting a near
perfect surface.
Several thin coats of Alclad Polished Aluminium were sprayed next
and polished to a high gloss.
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My choice of decals came from a Max Decals sheet, this is a Finnish aircraft Some wear to the red paint at the mouth of the air
coded "FM-77". Aircraft assigned in this unit stationed in Kauhava (mid ‘60s) intake was achieved by a ‘dabbing’ action with a
had the distinctive blue and white roundels without black border. FM-77 later small piece of packing foam and aluminium paint.
received a badge on top of the front nose cover showing three silhouettes of This gives a random chipped and flaking effect.
birds on a blue background.
When it comes to building an aircraft with shines more it shows blemishes. Inevitably those layers have dried, a uniform polishing
a natural metal finish we step into a a multitude of polishing sessions and touch with a soft cloth (such as spectacle
particular area of modelling... All our ups are needed to obtain the required cleaning cloth) provides a beautiful shine.
knowledge accumulated since starting the result. Subtle aluminium framework effects are
hobby comes into play. These finishes will For the polishing of surfaces, there is a obtained by rubbing the head of a cotton
show any tiny flaws in your preparation. whole arsenal of very fine flexible files swab on some panels of the fuselage and
Not being a fan of the glossy black under similar to ‘Micro Mesh’ cloth that achieve a the flow of air on the wing.
coat I like to work directly on a polished smooth and shiny before painting. The surfaces are then protected by a thin
plastic. This requires a particular and This is when the surfaces received a basic spayed coat of pure "Future" from Johnson.
careful sanding and polishing routine, Tamiya TS30 coat, which, once polished, This productis perfect to preserve Alclad
which can reveal defects once the reveals the areas to be retouched. This paints and moreover, this lacquered and
aluminum paint is applied. This same method of successive retouching is used smooth finish is perfect for decal
defects would be invisible under ‘military until the surfaces reveal no defects. At that application where we want the decal
matt’ colours but is amplified by the time the kit receives several layers of carrier film to disappear.
brilliance of your aluminum, the more it Polished Aluminium from Alclad II. Once
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The yellow and black FOD are typical of the Finnish Air
Force in the 1960s and 70s. Note the rocket pods.
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Weekend 109
The Bf 109E-7 Weekend Edition from difficult (I completely forgot to take landing, was simulated on the leading
Eduard is a superb kit with fine riveting and photos!). I started by cutting a square of 2 edges of the wings. I heated these parts
detailed parts which assembled with by 2 cm out of the port wing just above the of the wings with a hair dryer and pushed
almost no filler. I started with the cockpit, cooling radiator. Then I inserted a piece of some dents in the heated plastic with a
although I had the intention to install an aluminium (gently bent following the wing screwdriver.
aftermarket set from Aires, I only kept their profile) in this opening and reinforced the The portal crane was made from sprue. I
instrument panel. To complete the cockpit, edges with strips of plastic card firmly added the small ground plates to the 3
I used the excellent parts of the kit, adding glued in place on the inside and the legs and on one leg I added the necessary
the necessary switches, handles and outside with cyanoacrylate glue. Once the steps. The pulleys and the upper part were
wiring. glue was thoroughly hardened, I sanded made from scratch and the chains came
the upper surface of the wing and the from my spares box.
The engine was detailed as well. I aluminium panel to obtain a seamless wing
reworked the supports for the engine, finish. Hereafter the panel lines and riveting For the figures I used the “Africa Korps”
added some piping, wiring, hoisting points were restored, not touching the aluminium German Tank Crew from MiniArt. I
and changed the existing ignition cables because no details would be visible after changed the postures and the heads were
for finer details. Simulating the battle the damage would be created! replaced by heads of a German DAK
damage from ground fire was a little Some damage resulting from the belly Panzer Crew Set from Alpine Miniatures.
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Figures
The figures were skilfully painted by
François Laloux and he took colour
pictures of a German Africa fighter crew as
reference. He checked the figures and,
with some putty, he improved their finish.
The base coat is from a spray can from
Citadel.
For the skin he used the set ‘Flesh’ from
Lifecolor. He likes to work with Lifecolor
paints as they dry super matt and remain
workable to blend the different nuances in
the paint.
The rest of the figures were painted with
Vallejo paints. He used these paints for the
base colours, the highlighting and the
shadows.
On rocky ground
The terrain was made with all-purpose filler used to fill small gaps
and openings in masonry, wood, plaster, etc. On a glass plate I
fixed a cardboard frame of approx 3 mm thickness creating an
edge. Then I poured the water-thinned all-purpose filler on the
glass plate and spread out the liquid filler to obtain a more or less
flat surface. On top of the wet surface I scattered very fine yellow
coloured sand and some cat litter, crushed into smaller pieces. As
the all-purpose filler hardened, the sand and the cat litter became
glued to the surface. Before entirely dry, I created the grooves and
marks caused by the ‘109 during its belly landing.
The ground work needed very little paintwork as the basic colours
are very realistic. The grooves and scars were painted in a slightly
darker brown to accentuate them. finially I dry brushed the whole
base high lighting the edges of the grooves and scars and the
stones spread over the dessert sand.
The last step was finishing the details (the canopy, the broken
antenna, the forgotten leather flying helmet, the balance of the
ailerons, the pitot tube, etc) and bringing everything together on
the base. The portal crane was put on together with some cases
and jerry cans. The two superbly painted figures were positioned
next to the engine, et voilà, the job was done!
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new releases
Peregrine Publications
Photo CDs
We've received a selection from a range
of reference CDs aimed at modellers by
the author and photographer of the
discs, Steve Muth. Presented in 'Word'
and JPEG format the contents are easily
accessible if somewhat very plain in
appearance. Each aircraft has historical
text, markings and paintwork detail
explanations and a set of captions
referring to the images. Image quality is
good generally and of high resolution to
allow zooming in on particular details.
The majority of shots are of museum
examples with a 'walk-around' style
approach focussing on all of the areas
modellers look to improve upon namely
wheel wells, landing gear, cockpits etc.
The author has had the cooperation of
the exhibit staff where necessary to gain
access to get some good close-up
detail. Unfortunately Peregrine don't have
a web page (a Facebook page would be
a good idea) to see the full range but
can be contacted direct by email:
[email protected] with orders taken
by bank card, Pay Pal or U.S. bank with
a very reasonable price.
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No points for guessing this is another re-box from Italeri, originally cockpit, from the Dragon edition. Even if you have the original
a kit from Trimaster which was then produced and marketed by boxing of this kit the decals may be looking worse for ware, this
Dragon in the early 1990s I'd imagine this is difficult to find now. release is worth picking up as there's a full set of six marking
The tooling is looking a little tired in places with some tidying options on offer from the Cartograf produced sheet which is of the
required but no big deal, the kit is renowned as building well but highest quality. Competition is fierce for the 190 in 1:48 with both
some old-school filling and sanding is required. The surface detail Eduard and Tamiya having their own kits on the market, pay your
across the airframe looks a little crude in places and yet delicate money and take your choice as they say. I'd expect this release to
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with some nice finesse in others. Italeri have included the couple be the more budget-minded choice, decent kit but the tooling is
of small photo etched frets which mainly concentrate on the showing it's age.
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Supermarine Spitfire Mk VI to IX
and Mk XVI, Vol.2
Phil Listemann, Bill Dady
Published by Histoire and
Collections
Softback format, 97 pages
ISBN 9782 35250
www.casematepublishing.co.uk
The ever popular Spitfire returns in volume two of the H&C 'Planes something a little out of the ordinary such as Dutch, Irish, Egyptian
and Pilots' series which are essentially collections of colour profiles or Israeli markings to name a few. The profile illustrations are of
with detailed captions of which there are literally dozens upon high quality but only a side profile is shown of each except in the
dozens to whet the appetite for that next project. Along with the section on generic RAF markings. Some nice period images have
50 collection of profiles there is some historical text and handy unit also been collated including some original colour photographs. A
reference for each marque of aircraft and their service Worldwide nicely presented book which should please Spitfire fans, especially
with some great looking schemes on offer should you fancy those keen on the later versions.
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D-704
48285 48286
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The Douglas A- 4 Skyhawk is one of those classics of aviation My starting point was years ago, I got hold of an A - 4E / F from
which is still in service in countries like Argentina, Brazil and New Hasegawa in 1:32, this tooling was over thirty years old with
Zealand. Created in the 1950s for the United States Navy, the raised panel lines and generally quite poor details such as the
request for a small attack fighter for operation on aircraft carriers cockpit and wheel wells. I decided to begin with the most
had its baptism of fire during the Vietnam War where they difficult task I’d set myself, to re-scribe all of the panel lines and
participated in combat with both the U.S. Navy and the Marines . rivet the entire airframe. I armed myself with as much reference
During the fighting the A-4 even took aerial victories against as I could find to ensure an accurate rendition of the fine surface
North Vietnamese MiGs. Later Skyhawks saw action with detail. For this task I recommend patience and not to work more
intervention in Arab - Israeli wars and the Falklands conflict with than one hour at a time on this particular task. The plastic is very
Argentina against the British Navy and its Sea Harriers. hard and you’ll end up hurting your fingers plus your
To document the history of the development of the ‘Scooter’ concentration decreases as time passes leading to mistakes.
would take up far more space than I have here, so lets
concentrate on the large scale modelling project.
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Construction
With the breaks taken from scribing and of the doors matched the fuselage. detail. I often let myself go in this type of
riveting I was able to advance other parts space filled with a thousand and one
of the aircraft, such as the cockpit. I always try to switch between different plumbing and wiring lines, some that don’t
Fortunately the U.S. manufacturer ‘Avionix’ tasks on a model with the construction and really exist! Again, as always, good
has a wonderful resin cockpit specifically paint, so now I started painting the cockpit reference is the key to accuracy. Having
for this model. The fit of the parts is very as this will need to be closed inside the completed the wheel wells it was time to
good and it just needs the usual type of fuselage. The cockpit is quite compact, so look at the external fittings.
surgery for resin cockpit parts to fit snuggly after initial airbrushed base colours there
inside the plastic fuselage. Again I returned was the detail painting by brush with lots of All these parts are what ultimately give life
to the riveting which slowly but surely was colour reference to hand on the to the model, sometimes we are guilty of
adding such finesse to this old kit. The kits workbench. A few days of painting the not spending the time on fittings that can
original raised rivets, even when sanded cockpit and it was back to the building ultimately become the focus for anyone
away, left enough of an impression to act again, this time to scratch build the wheel viewing the finished piece. I decided from
as a guide to follow. To add some more wells and detail the landing gear. Again, a the start that I would treat each sub-
detail and interest I decided to open some good selection of reference is key, assembly as a ‘model’ in itself, giving each
acess panels. The engine starter turbine preferably a fully working aircraft to ensure my full attention, then ultimately bring all of
was constructed with several pieces of we catch every detail. The difficulty is that the models together to form the finished
Evergreen plastic, metal and copper wire. wells have to be symmetrical (or as best display.
I spent some time ensuring the curvature we can) and also will have a consistency in
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Wiring and plumbing was added to the All the detail work in the main wheel-wells had, of
nose wheel-well and landing gear course, had to be built twice! A lot of work, but I
according to my references. feel it was worth it for the final effect.
My first colour to apply is always the masked I laid on a base grey of XF-19 The model starts to take on a more
lightest, in this case Tamiya XF-2 white to mixed with 50% white XF-2. dimensional effect with more realism than
the undersides and the upper edges which Over this I applied shading and highlighting an evenly applied solid grey.
will either remain white or be over-painted working around the various panels and
in red or yellow, With these white areas shapes.
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Given that this aircraft did not operate from surfaces and for the upper an HB. Then a enhance details and add to the used look
aircraft carriers but from land bases, the layer of gloss varnish is applied to serve as of th A-4. At this point it’s time to tweak
effects of dirt have to be considered and a basis to place the decals. The decals minor flaws or deficiencies that may have
various subtle tones were airbrushed used are from CAM decals, although they occurred up to this point in ready for a
shading around panel lines and in the are for a model ‘M’, most are safe to use sealing coat of matt varnish. This duller
direction of airflow, especially across the my model ‘E’. Once all the decals are finish enhances the look of many flying
wings. applied and set everything was sealed with hours and provides a uniform and realistic
Once all of the paintwork was completely another coat of gloss varnish. Then once finish across the paintwork and decals.
dry I began to mark the panel lines, I dry, some MiG Productions "Dark Wash"
recommend using a 2H pencil on the lower was sparingly applied in certain areas to
Weathering and definition of the panels is easily seen A coat of gloss gives a good seal to the paintwork and prepares the
against the matt white so the effects were applied very surface for decals. Decals are best applied to gloss finishes to avoid
gradually. the ‘silvering’ effect of the carrier film.
One element not available on the decal The clear masking film needs to be A pleasing finish with that ‘painted-on’
sheet for my actual subject Skyhawk are carefully burnished around the edges to appearance, because, well, it’s painted on!
the ‘WL’ tail markings. The straight lines avoid any ‘creep’ by the black.
mean a mask is easy to create.
The final part to paint which is integral to the airframe is the exhaust. Following my
reference shots, an aluminium base coat was applied and when dry, two fine lines were
masked with Tamiya tape. Tamiya X-19 was used again to apply subtle discolouration
and finally a black/brown mix was airbrushed to suggest heavier staining.
Heavy Load
A-4s carried up to ten bombs with a or paper towel and apply with a random The fuel tank is heavily scuffed and
mixture long and short fuses. Each bomb manner. A finishing touch of some dusty discoloured along the length of its centre.
has wiring and it’s specific paint finishes. earth (typical of Vietnam) was applied with Some coloured wiring and fittings were
The painting of the bombs is quite creative some pigment powder and some random picked out in acrylics and all help with the
with some photographs showing a scratches and damage by pencil. busy and detailed appearance of the wheel
tremendous amount of wear in the combat Then I moved onto the pylons, in this case wells. Extra details were added to the
environment. The ordnance for my A-4 the SRM were improved with Evergreen as arrestor hook before being airbrushed in
were stored on land bases and the well as the wiring of each bomb to the. All it’s black and white bands with weathering
cumulative outdoor weathering and pieces were airbrushed white then details and washes applied as per the other
inclement Vietnam weather from sun, wind picked out with HB pencil and an overall components.
and rain are typical and should be taken coat of gloss varnish. ‘Dark Wash’ from
into account. The painting is relatively MiG Productions was used to enhance fine When in place, the bomb load becomes an
simple, starting with an olive base colour I details and add a weathered look to not interesting focus of the finished model with
used a piece of sponge to speckle different only the pylons but all the landing gear and the strong colours contrasting against the
colours including earth tones. This wheel well detail. Washes also improved white and grey of the airframe adding to
technique works like the dry brush the look of the fuel tank. Note how the fuel the purposeful combat-ready look.
technique, dip the sponge in the paint just tank has it’s tail removed, done to avoid
a little and remove the excess with a cloth any contact with the ground on take off.
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All ready for the final assembly. I kept to my original plan of treating the
different elements as separate models in their own right ensuring the same
degree of finish throughout.
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Great care is needed during the final assembly, with such a lot of painted parts to add
there was a lot of handling of the model so I tended to leave the more fragile pieces
until last. The stance of a ‘Scooter’ is critical to the final appearance so the landing
gear was set at the correct angles and the joints allowed to completely harden before
setting the model on it’s wheels.
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The Douglas A- 4 Skyhawk is a beautiful aircraft with infinite These smaller aircraft in 1:32 sit well in any collection or display
possibilities for modellers with the amount of camouflage and the larger scale offers the modeller so much more scope for
schemes on offer. Shortly after starting this project, Trumpeter detailing. Although there’s now a superior kit on the market, the
announced the release of a newly tooled kit of the A-4, infinitely old Hasegawa Skyhawk still makes an enjoyable project where
superior to the old Hasegawa kit as we’d expect from tooling over you can add your own unique personal touches.
thirty years old!
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