31

SESSION 2.1: DESIGN CONCEPTS

INTRODUCTION
A design is an orderly arrangement of elements like lines,
shape, form, texture etc. in an aesthetic manner. Designing comes before the
production of garments.

TYPES OF DESIGN
Designs can be broadly classified into two types
1. Structural Design: - Structural designs are made by joining together lines,
forms, etc together. It is a simple design suitable for its purpose

2. Decorative Design: - A decorative design is an additional enrichment on a

structural design. In garments decoration can be created through various types
of prints, braids, embroidery, buttons etc.

Structural Design Decorative Design

Another Classification of designs are: -

Easy Learning
 32

1. Naturalistic design: - It imitates or copies the nature in a photographic manner.

I include pictures, designs or photographs of flowers, fruits, animals etc.
2. Stylized design: - These are modified natural designs. These are simple
designs which have its original structure from natural design.
3. Geometric design: - These are designs made by combination of geometric
forms like line, circle, square etc
4. Historic design: - These are designs which indicate our glorious past or stories
of history.
5. Abstract design: - These designs are formed by the indistinct fusion of lines,
colours, form texture etc. These are entirely dependent on the skill of the
designer. They may not resemble real objects.

Natural Design Stylized Design

Geometric Design Historic Design Abstract Design

ELEMENTS OF DESIGN
Any design is made by some factors such as lines, colour,
texture etc. These raw materials of which designs are made, are called elements of
design.

Easy Learning
 33

The basic elements of design are: -

1. Lines
2. Shape
3. Form
4. Colour
5. Texture
6. Space
1. Lines: - A line is a series of connected points. It is the basic element of the design.
All lines have direction, width and length. Lines within a garment are created by
darts, seams, and decorative items or details. Since line crates illusion of height,
and width, they can be used in different ways according to the figure type.
There are two types of lines: -
i. Straight Lines – Vertical, Horizontal, Diagonal, Zigzag.
a. Vertical lines: - They generally add height or length to the body. Gives a
feeling of dignity, strength, poise and sophistication.
b. Horizontal lines: - They give the effect of width and shorten the body. Gives
a relaxed and calm feeling, suggests rest and gentleness.
c. Diagonal lines: - They always show a movement or motion.
d. Zigzag lines: - It is a series of connecting diagonal lines. They tend to
increase the size of the area covered by them.

ii. Curved Lines –Ccurved lines are graceful and gives a feminine effect.

Easy Learning
 34

2. Shape: - A shape is defined as a two-dimensional area that stands out from the
space. All objects are composed of shapes. Basic shapes are ggeometric shape,
organic shape and inorganic shape.
Garment design makes use of different types of shapes,
which can be structural or decorative. Structural shapes are part of the garment
structure and include various garment components such as sleeves, collars,
pockets, necklines, etc. Decorative shapes are the external trims, embellishments,
embroidery, etc. which enhance the appearance of the garment.

The overall shape of a garment is its shape or silhouette. Examples for

silhouette of garments are:
a. A-line – An A-line dress will flair out from waist and will have a silhouette like
the letter “A”.
b. Ball gown – Fitted bodies and waist with a maximum flared skirt at hemline.
c. Empire – High waistline under the bust and flares out the skirt.
d. Sheath – Straight cylindrical shape and is achieved by giving the same
measurements to the chest, waist and hem.
e. Mermaid– Fitted from the bust through the length of the knee and then flares
out.
f. Asymmetrical – This garment style does not have a symmetrical form.

Easy Learning
 35

3. Form: - It is a three-dimensional object. It can be measured by its height, width,

and depth. Basic forms are the sphere, the cone, the cube, ovals, cylinders and
rectangles.
4. Colour: - Colour plays a large role in the designing of garments. Used in a
planned, controlled arrangement; colours can produce many moods. Colours
are often described in three particular terms – hue, value and intensity. These
are called as the qualities of colour or dimensions of colour.
i. Hue: - Hue refers to the name of the colour itself. There are six basic hues
red, yellow, blue, green, orange and violet.

Basic Hues
ii. Value: - Value of a colour means the lightness and darkness of a hue. The
lightest or highest value is white and the darkest or the lowest value is black.
Lightest values of a colour are also called ‘tints’. By adding white to the
colour one obtains ‘tints’ which are lighter than the normal value. ‘Shades’
are darker than the normal value. By adding black to the normal colour one
gets ‘shades’ which are below the normal value. Value scale is a graded
scale of tints and shades, ranging from white at the top to black at the
bottom.

Value Scale of Blue

Easy Learning
 36

iii. Intensity / Chroma: - The intensity of a colour refers to the brightness or

dullness of the colour. The effects of intense colours may be reduced by
adding grey to them. Adding gray or mixing the complementary colour to
normal hues result dull colours. A dull colour is unsaturated or low in
intensity.

Intensity or Chroma

Prang Colour System: - Prang colour system explains the primary, secondary
and intermediate colours of pigments.

i. Primary Colours: - Primary colours cannot be made by the combination

of other colours and all other colours are obtained by the combination of
these primary colours in different proportion. Yellow. Blue and Red are the
primary colours.

Easy Learning
 37

ii. Secondary Colours: - When two primary colours are mixed in equal
proportion a secondary colour is obtained.
Yellow + Blue = Green
Blue + Red = Violet
Red + Yellow = Orange
iii. Intermediate colours: - If a primary colour is combined with an adjacent
secondary colour the resultant colour is called intermediate colour.
Yellow + Green = Yellow – Green
Green + Blue = Blue – Green
Blue + Violet = Blue – Violet
Violet + Red = Red – Violet
Red + Orange = Red – Orange
Orange + Yellow = Yellow – Orange
iv. Neutral Colours: - The Black, White and Grey are neutral colours. They
are used in backgrounds.

v. Warm and Cool Colours: The colour wheel can be divided into warm and
cool sides. The colours on the red side of the wheel are said to be warm
colours. Warm colours are red, orange, and yellow. Orange is the
warmest colour. Colours on the side of green are cool colours. Blue is
the coolest colour.

Colour Schemes
Colour schemes or colour harmonies mean the different combinations of
colours in a design in a pleasing way. Colour schemes which are produced through
the aid of a prang colour wheel are of three types:

i. Related Colour Schemes

ii. Contrasting Colour Schemes
iii. Achromatic Colour Schemes

i. Related Colour Schemes: - They are produced by combining colours that lie
near to each other on the prang colour wheel.
E.g. - Monochromatic and Analogous Colour Scheme.

a. Monochromatic Colour Scheme: - It is a one colour scheme (‘mono’

means ‘one’ and ‘chrome’ means ‘colour’). It consists of combining
different values or intensities of the same hue.
E.g.: - Red, Light red and Dark red

b. Analogous Colour Scheme: - An analogous colour scheme is a

combination of two or three neighbouring colours on the colour wheel.
E.g.: - Yellow, Yellow–Green and Green is more pleasing than Yellow–
Green, Green and Blue–green.

Easy Learning
 38

Monochromatic Colour Scheme Analogous Colour Scheme

ii. Contrasting Colour Schemes: - These are produced by combining colours that
are far apart on the colour wheel.

a. Direct Complementary Colour Scheme: - Complementary colours are

those which lie direct opposite to each other on the colour wheel. There
are six such pairs,

i. Yellow & Violet

ii. Yellow – Green & Red – Violet
iii. Green & Red
iv. Blue – Green & Red – Orange
v. Blue & Orange
vi. Blue – Violet & Yellow – Orange

b. Split Complementary Colour Scheme: - is obtained by using any one

colour and the two colours that lie on either side of its complementary
colour.
E.g.: - Yellow, Blue–Violet & Red– Violet

Complementary Colour Scheme Split Complementary Colour Scheme

c. Double Complementary Colour Scheme: - It is obtained by combining

two adjacent colours and their complementary colours.
E.g.: - Yellow, Yellow – Green, Violet & Red – Violet

Easy Learning
 39

d. Triad Colour Scheme: - is one which combines any three colours that
form an equilateral triangle on the colour wheel. There are four such
combinations.
i. Primary triad → Yellow, Blue & Red
ii. Secondary triad → Green, Violet & Orange
iii. Intermediate triad I → Yellow–Orange, Red–Violet & Blue–Green
iv. Intermediate triad II → Yellow – Green, Red – Orange & Blue –
Violet.

Double Complementary Colour Scheme Triad Colour Scheme

iii. Achromatic Colour Schemes: Achromatic colour scheme can be defined as

tints or tones of black or shades of white i.e., black, white and various shades
of gray comprise of achromatic colour scheme.

Achromatic Colour Schemes

5. Texture: -Texture refers to as a material feels when the fingertips are run lightly
along its surface. Soft, shiny, dull, rough, crisp, smooth, sheer is some of the
textures. Shiny and glossy texture reflects light and thus increases the apparent
size of the wearer. Dull fabrics absorb light and thus tend to decrease the size
of the wearer.
Types of Texture:
Physical or tactile texture: Physical texture is what we feel when we run the
hand gently over the surface of a fabric or give the fabric a gentle squeeze.
Visual texture:
Visual texture is given to garments through surface embellishment techniques
such as printing or painting. They sometime create a fake visual appearance
which is not actually felt when touched.

Easy Learning
 40

Texture in Garments

6. Space: - Space is what holds the design and its parts in place. Space has no
mass of its own. Space may be positive and negative.
 Positive Spaces: Positive space is the space which is filled by the design
elements.
 Negative Spaces: It is the empty space or the background

PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN
Design principles should be regarded as guides rather than
rigid rules. These principles are not actually formulae for creating beauty, but they help
one to judge, the clothing selected is artistically good or bad. The major principles of
design are:
1. Balance
2. Proportion
3. Rhythm
4. Emphasis
5. Harmony

Easy Learning
 41

1. BALANCE
Balance is the principle of design that produces a feeling
of rest and equilibrium. It is attained by groping lines, shapes or colours around
a central point in such a way that the general effect has sense of equilibrium.
Balance is of two types.

Types of Balance
There are two types of balances: -
i. Formal balance (Symmetrical balance): - It is also known as symmetrical
balance. Here objects of equal interests and weight or identical objects are
placed on either side of the imaginary center.
ii. Informal balance (Asymmetrical balance):- Here objects are placed not in
equal distance, but placed such that they appear to be in equilibrium. Lighter or
smaller objects are placed closer to the central point, while heavier and bigger
objects are placed further away.

2. PROPORTION
The principle of proportion, also known as the ‘law of relationships. It
refers to how an object, idea or colour is related to other with regard to size,
numbers, quantity etc.
The Greek oblong’ is considered as most appropriate ratio of space
divisions and it is also called as “the golden oblong”. It is recognized standard
for space relationship. This oblong always uses the ratio of 2: 3 or 3: 5 in case
of flat surfaces. For solids it is 5 : 7 : 11.

3. RHYTHM
Rhythm as an art principle is defined as easy, connected path along
which the eye follows a regular arrangement of motifs. Rhythm can be achieved
in the following ways.
i. Rhythm by Repetition: - Rhythm is produced when a line, shape or colour
is repeated at regular intervals.
E.g.: A series of buttons.
ii. Rhythm by Gradation: - Gradation means a sequence or regular
progression of objects in a series.
E.g.: Use of tucks, ruffles of varying width etc.
iii. Rhythm by Radiation: - In this type the eye movement is from the central
part of the design to outer portions.

Easy Learning
 42

E.g.: Radiating pleats or tucks.

4. EMPHASIS
Emphasis means a center of interest should be related to the total
structure of the garment. This may be a dominating object, dominating colour
or dominating idea in a design. A centre of interest is created by arranging
different elements of design in a special way. The emphasis can be created
through,
a. use of special lines,
b. use of different shapes in a design,
c. leaving sufficient background space around the object,
d. use of contrasting colours,
e. grouping of objects,
f. use of decorations in a design,
g. Use of lights and shades.

5. HARMONY
To be harmony means to be in agreement and to be pleasant. It
produces an impression of unity in design through the selection and
arrangement of different elements of design.

Easy Learning
 43

There are six aspects of harmony:

a. Harmony in lines,
b. Harmony in shapes,
c. Harmony in size,
d. Harmony in texture,
e. Harmony in colour and
f. Harmony in texture.

SESSION 2.2: FASHION CONCEPTS

INTRODUCTION
In fashion designing a wide list of terms are used. Students
aiming to be in the field of fashion should have a clear idea about the various terms
that are prevailing in the industry. Besides familiarity we should be able to distinguish
the difference within the terms.

FASHION TERMS
The following are the most important terms that are greatly
used in the fashion industry: -

1. Style: -
- Style is the distinguishable characteristic of a garment.
- It is a particular look, shape or type of apparel.
- If consumers support a style, it becomes fashion.
- It is always constant whether it is currently accepted or not.
- The style may have a characteristic cut, silhouette, fabric, colour palette,
surface embellishment, pattern-making, garment construction or finishing
techniques.
- E.g. – Necklines, Scoop. V-neck, Boat neck, Bermuda, Pinafore
2. Trend: -
- A fashion trend refers to the movement of fashions in clothing follow.
- It is a popular style for practice, especially in clothing, foot wear, accessories,
make up, or furniture.
- Fashion is often affected by seasonal trends which imply that a particular style,
silhouette, colour, texture etc. may be dominant at a given point of time, leading
to a tendency to wear similar clothes.
- This aspect is highlighted and reinforced by the magazines, advertisements etc.

Easy Learning
 44

3. Fashion:
- It is the particular style that is popular at a given time.
- It is a style that is accepted by a large group of people for a period of time.
- Fashion is always new, even when old styles are reintroduced.
- A fashion is always based on a style. But it does not mean that every style is in
fashion.
4. Classic: -
- It refers to the style that endures.
- A classic style is one that stays in fashion for a long time.
- A classic is characterised by simplicity of design and its suitability to the clothing
needs of large population.
- It is a long lasting or constant fashion.
E.g. – Blue jeans, Well-fitted black formal trousers, Kanchipuram sarees.
5. Fad: -
- Fashions popular for short period of time are termed as fad.
- Fads are short lived fashion.
- Fad refers to styles that are extreme and exaggerated in their design.
- Therefore, they suddenly gain high level of popularity and then quickly
disappear from the fashion scene.
- Often popular with teens.
- They are shortly flood in the market due to low price, and people get tired of it
quickly.
- E.g. – Fluorescent-coloured T-shirts, ankle or calf length jeans with turn-up
cuffs, baggy anti-fit jeans etc.
6. Silhouette: -
- It is a shape or outline of a garment or clothing style.
- It is also called as “shape” or “form”.
- It is formed by the width and length of the neckline, sleeves, waistline and parts
or skirt.
- Silhouettes always change in fashion.
- Throughout history there are three basic forms of silhouettes with many
variations were observed - bell, hourglass & tubular.
7. Custom:
- Custom means made for the individual customer.
- Garments are designed and produced with special design, fabric and fit to a
specific person.
- It is also called made-to-order apparel.
- Custom made clothing was produced mostly by women of the house prior to
the mass production at the factories. The garments were also stitched by hand
very meticulously.

Easy Learning
 45

8. Haute Couture: -
- In French, Haute couture refers to high fashion created by designers known as
‘couturiers.
- Couture is unique and exclusive creations of fashion customized for individual
clients, since the design is never duplicated.
- The extremely high prices are due to design exclusivity, high quality of fabric,
skilled labour used for surface design techniques, embroidery, drape,
craftsmanship, garment construction and quality of finish.
- Among the most reputed international couture labels are Chanel, Dior, Versace
and Valentino. India has several designers like Ritu Kumar, Tarun Tahiliani,
Rohit Bal, Suneet Verma, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Arora, Manish
Malhotra and others in this genre.
9. Prêt a Porter: -
- (French) refers to ready to wear (RTW) clothing derived from the couture
collection.
- It is factory made-clothing, manufactured with high quality standards, at more
affordable prices in multiple sizes in a wider range of colour options.
- Standard patterns, factory equipment, and faster construction techniques are
used for ‘prêt-a-porter’ to keep costs low
- This term is widely used now as the fashion retail sector.

No. Designer Main Label Pret Label

1 Ritu Kumar Ritu Label

2 Manish Arora Manish Arora Fish Fry Indian by Manish Arora
3 Rohit Bal Rohit Bal Balance
4 Ashish Soni Ashish Soni A&S
5 Tarun Tahiliani Tarun Tahiliani TT
6 Issey Miyake Issey Miyake Pleats Please

7 Donna Karan Donna Karan DKNY

10. Avant grade: -

- They are the designs created with uncommon ideas or techniques with a
startling look.
- Avant garde clothes are used to draw attention and hence are used in stage
show or for advertisements.
- They are experimental and innovative designs.
- These designs are limited in numbers and may not be wearable.

Easy Learning
 46

11. Mass / Volume Fashion:

- These are ready-to-wear garments in mass.
- It is available in large quantities with standard measurements and variety of
colours.
- Uses simple production techniques and cheaper fabrics hence to sell at
cheaper rates.
- They are fashion available both in brands and on streets.
- Mass fashions constitute the ‘bread and butter’ of the fashion industry as they
account for the major of sales in the fashion business.
12. Collection:
- A collection, also called a range or line, refers to a well-defined and diligently-
edited group of clothing or products for a specific season.
- For example, this could be a range of blouses with a colour coordinated focus
on design variations of details like collars, necklines, silhouettes, lengths etc.
for the ready to wear (RTW) market.
13. Knock – Off:
- Knock – off is the stealing of design ideas, or the use of a design, without the
consent of the originator/ manufacturer.
- Designs are generally copied from higher priced garments.
- They are produced in great volume with lower quality materials and
workmanship.
14. Fashion Forecast:
- A prediction of fashion colours, textures, designs, silhouettes and styles that
become popular.

FASHION CYCLE
Fashion always remains in motion. The changes in fashion
depend on economic, social, and psychological factors. Fashions change with same
series of events. The acceptance and rejection of a particular style is indicated through
the fashion cycle. It is usually depicted as a bell-shaped curve. The five stages of a
fashion cycle are:
― Introduction
― Rise in popularity
― Peak of popularity
― Decline in popularity
― Rejection
Stage1. Introduction Stage
 It is the introduction of a style.
 A fashion is born when it’s worn for the first time. For example, models and
celebrities’ wear.
 The introduced style has usually limited acceptance by consumers.
 Higher prices of products and limited production.

Easy Learning
 47

Stage2. Rise in Acceptance / Growth Stage

 When the style gets wider acceptance, the demand rises.
 Fashion followers pick up the trend thus increasing the appeal and
popularity of the style.
 Adaptation and changes are done in style at this stage.
 Price is affordable by using less expensive fabrics and styles.
 Mass production is carried out.
Stage3. Peak in Popularity / Maturity Stage
 This stage represents the peak of popularity.
 The style is widely worn in society.
 Majority of consumers demand and accept variations of the style with
different price level.
 Introducing new colour, texture or details in the existing style may keep that
style alive for longer period.
 Lengths at this stage determines if fashion becomes a classic.
 Price is affordable and style is produced in large quantities.
Stage4. Decline in Popularity / Decline Stage
 This stage indicates the decline in popularity.
 The style has over-exposed or become monotonous.
 Demand for the fashion decreases and the style is over saturated.
 Consumers won’t pay high price for the fashion
 Decrease in demand leads to start offering discounts and reduced price.
Stage5. Rejection / Obsolescence
 The style is considered to be outdated and is therefore rejected.
 Consumers are no longer interested.
 Retailers do not restock products
 Production of style has stopped by manufacturers.

Fashion Cycle

Easy Learning
 48

Length of cycles: - The life of a fashion can seems quite short. This period may range
from several months to several years. Some fashions take a short time to reach the
peak in popularity, others take longer; some decline slowly, others quickly.

A classic style is one originally introduced as a fashion item but because of its
superior design features and broad appeal, stays popular over a long period of
time. E.g., true classics include Levis jeans, T-shirts, pleated skirts, blazers, etc.
A fad style will decline popularity shortly due its extreme design. E.g., extreme
silhouettes, strong colours, bright bold prints, exaggerated accessories are typical
examples of fad.
A Standard style called long-wave phenomenon, are reflective of styles that start
gradually increase popularity and sustain for a longer period of time and then their
popularity eventually decreases.

FASHION ADOPTION THEORIES

Fashion is one of the greatest economic forces in the
present-day life. Fashion theories help us explain phenomenon of fashion. Basically,
there are three theories of the fashion adoption process.

a. The down- ward flow theory or trickle-down theory,

b. The horizontal-flow theory or or trickle- across theory.
c. The upward flow theory or trickle-up theory.

1. Trickle - down theory:

- This is the oldest theory of fashion adoption.
- It says a style must first be adopted by people of the top social level.
- The style then gradually wins acceptance at progressively lower social level.
- People at the lower socio-economic level found it safe to copy the fashion
leaders rather than to experiment fashion.
- Thus, fashion trickled down from higher fashion leaders to the lower strata of
people.

2. Trickle-up theory:
- This theory is also called as Reverse adoption theory.
- The bottom-up theory explains that the fashions filter up from youth to aged
and from lower to upper socioeconomic groups.
- It says that young, adopt new and different fashions
- Upper socio-economic groups feel free to adopt new dress patterns.
- E.g., T-shirts and jeans of the earliest “Hippies”, Denim, glitter tops, metal
shine garments etc.

3. Trickle-across Theory or Mass Market Theory:

- This is also called as Trickle- Across theory of fashion adoption.
- This theory claims that fashions move horizontally between groups on similar
social levels rather than vertically from one level to another.
- As the twentieth century progressed, fashion no longer was created by any
specific social or economic class.
- Each group or segment of society has its own leader or leaders of fashion.
- The approval of these local leaders is required before a fashion can be
adopted by the group.

Easy Learning
 49

INDIAN AND INTERNATIONAL FASHION CENTRES

The top fashion capitals of world are: -
- New York: - Fashion Capital of North America, Hosts over 75 major fashion
/Trade shows and market week including the iconic ‘New York Fashion Week’
each year.
- Paris: - This magnificent city of France is the cradle of fashion. The famous
French designers like Coco Chanel and Christian Dior shaped the future of
fashion and revolutionized the way of dressings.
- London: - The ancient city In UK is one of the four major fashion capitals of
world. London is home to so many top fashion schools, the most prestigious,
and often considered the best in the world, is Central Saint Martins.
- Milan: - City of Milan at North Italy has responsible for complementing fashion
styles all over the world with prime accessories. Milan is the home to some of the
world’s finest designers and leading brands like, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Gianni
Versace, Prada etc. The city hosts one of the largest fashion weeks in the
world—Milan Fashion Week, and only the most elite members of the fashion
industry attend.
- Rome: - Rome is known for top fashion houses that produce extravagant haute
couture fashions for the rich and famous. The City of Rome also hosts Rome
Fashion Week. The biannual event (also known as Alta Moda Alta Roma),
takes place in January and July.
- Barcilona: - Barcelona has one of the fastest growing fashion industries in the
world.
- Berlin: Berlin Fashion Week is also an event worth mentioning. Although
young compared to Paris and New York Fashion Weeks, Berlin Fashion Week
has made a name for itself by introducing the hottest young fashion designers
to the world.
- Tokyo: - ‘The Tokyo Fashion Week’ is one of the best on the Asian continent.
- Madrid: - First, Madrid Fashion Week is the most prestigious fashion event in
Spain.

The top fashion cities of India: - India is a country with an ancient clothing design
tradition, yet an emerging fashion industry.
- Delhi: - Fashion Capital of India. Up to six fashion weeks are conducted in every
year. More than 50 leading fashion designers are from this city. Delhi is now 24 th
in the fashion capital of world.
- Kolkata: - The everyday style of Kolkata includes creative fix of Indian fabrics
and prints mixed with western styles. With many top designers setting up their
shop in Kolkata such as the celeb-famous Sabyasachi and Anamika Khanna,
it has also become a go-to city for designer wedding shopping. Kolkata is
also famous for the very affordable garments available owing to its proximity
to all the major ports around the globe.
- Mumbai: - Mumbai is the famous fashion center of middle fashion zone of India.
Bollywood, one of the world's biggest film industries, heavily influences the

Easy Learning
 50

city's fashion. Some of the most famous international fashion brands and
labels can be easily spotted in Mumbai along with a wide range of local
markets. ‘Lakme Fashion Week’ is the main attraction of fashion lovers of India.
- Bangalore: - This city is the main center of south fashion zone of India.’
Bangalore Fashion Week is the Famous fashion show. Eexperimenting with
fashion and mixing Indian prints such as Rajasthani block prints, Kalamkari
and Ikkat with western styles such as crop tops and skirts, are common trend.
- Hyderabad: -. Inspired by the grand Mughal empire that once ruled it,
Hyderabad's fashion is flamboyant and hard to miss. Hyderabad is a very
designer-friendly city leading to dozens of famous designers setting up shop
here.

INDIAN AND INTERNATIONAL FASHION DESIGNERS

International Designers:
1. Giorgio Armani - Italy 7. Coco Chanel – France
2. Ralph Lauren - America 8. Christian Dior – France
3. Donna Karan - America 9. Stefano Gabbana – Italy
4. Marc Jacobs - America 10. Guccio Gucci – Italy
5. Donatella Versace - Italy 11. Kar Lagerfeld – Germany
6. Calvin Klein – America 12. Miuccia Prada – Italy

Indian Fashion Designers

1. SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE: - Sabyasachi Mukherjee, a new sensation from

Kolkata is the youngest designer who has made his name in panorama of
Indian Fashion. He designs both casual and party wears for women. He
specialized in different types of bags, and head gear suiting to the dress and
also designs for poets, artists, painters, with dresses having a very casual and
informal look.
2. ROHIT BAL: - Rohit Bal is called as “Indian master of fabric & fantasy”. He did
his graduation from New Delhi’s St-Stephens college with a first class (Hons.)
degree in history. He experiments with different colours following the golden
rule i.e light for the day & heavier for evening.
3. MANISH MALHOTRA: -Graduated from Elphinstone College, Mumbai, Manish
is a well known designer in new fashion world as well as in Bollywood. He is
also known as a very hyped rip-off artist as he cut Kanjeevaram sarees & made
them in to slinky dress. Malhotra uses clear & bold colours like black, red & opts
for pastel colours like lilacs, lavenders, whites, creams pink & lemon instead.
His garments include short kurtas with stoles, hip length tops, loose knit shirts,
silk corsets & lycra trousers for women & kurtas , kurta shirts, full shirts, short
shirts, jackets & draw strings for men. He likes lots of silk embroidery.

Easy Learning
 51

4. TARUN TAHILIANI: -Tarun , a graduate in Business Management is one of the

top Indian designers. Drapes were his weaknesses because no other society
uses the draped form as significantly as India. Many exotic ways- sari, dhoti,
lungi, & orhni are draped by him. He has designed the jeweled blouses and
traditional angarkhas with slightly revised shapesHe launched his own label
Ahilian and has an own couture.
5. RITU BERI: -Ritu Beri graduated from Delhi University in 1987 and was
amongst the first batch of 25 students from NIFT. She achieved instant success
with this collection even in the fashion at London‘s regent street. Her collection
“SANSKRITI” in 1995 was a breaking way of tracing her roots in the fashion
industry.
6. RITU KUMAR: - Ritu Kumar has contributed in the revival of Indian crafts. In
1964 she graduated from Lady Irwin College., Delhi. In 1967 she has set up a
workshop at Kolkota with largest collection of blocks in the world. Ritu kumar
mastered in Block prints, Kasuti, Chikankari to Zardosi, Bandini and Kalamkari
which was used in her timeless ethnic wear for women. Ritu Kumar mostly
designs bridal wear sarees. Ritu Kumar is creator of first chain of exclusive
boutiques in India. She has her own distribution system. Four stores in Mumbai,
one in Delhi, one in Amritsar has kept their locals in traditional wear. Her outfits
have been worn by celebs like Jemina khan and Princess Diana.

SESSION 2.3: SOT – FABRIC MANIPULATION TECHNIQUES

INTRODUCTION
There are a broad group of textile crafts that help in
increasing the attractiveness of fabrics by using basic techniques like folding, twisting,
cutting and sewing the fabrics. Fabric manipulation means the reshaping of the fabric
surface by creating 2D or 3D patterns on the garments. Fabric manipulation is mostly
used in fashion design, interior design, and also in textile art.
There are several fabric manipulation techniques are used
by designers like pleating, embroidery, dyeing, printing, weaving, knitting, crocheting,
smocking, gathering etc. Here we are discussing about four common techniques used
in fabric manipulation.
1. Gathering: - Gathering produces bulkier to a long fabric by pulling on a thread. A
thread is passed through the fabric (by hand or machine, but with a very large stitch;
a basting stitch). By pulling on the thread, it creates pleats and volume. Gathering
can be done in different ways.
a. Gathering by Hand: - Make two rows of running stitches about ¼” apart.
Pull the threads slowing and secure tightly.
b. Gathering by Machine: - For this increase the stich length in sewing
machine. Make two rows of stiches on the right side of the fabric at ½”
apart. Pull the bobbin thread on the wrong side and knot it.
c. Gathering with Elastic: - Sometimes gathering can be done with a single row
of elastic. Flat elastic is used for this technique. Elastic is stitched on the wrong

Easy Learning
 52

side of the fabric, in a stretching state. When tension is released after stitching,
it makes gathers.
d. Gathering with Gathering Foot: - Using a gathering foot is an easy and
time-saving way to gather fabric automatically.

Gathers
2. Shirring: - Shirring is the method of gathering along multiple parallel rows of
straight stitching. At least 3 stitches are necessary to create shirring. The stitches
can be done with elastic threads. The elastic thread are used in the bobbin to create
an elasticated row of stitching. Shirring is far more comfortable than regular
elastic as it is soft and flexible.
Shirring
3. Pleats: - Pleating involves folding fabric into different shapes creating differences

in the volume and texture of the fabric. Pleats have been used in textiles and fashion
for ever. But the style and techniques of pleats have changed a lot with
technological innovations. Pleats are a great fabric manipulation technique, adding
interesting details to a garment. They create freedom of movement in clothes, and
texture to any fabric. There are a lot of ways to create pleats with fabrics. The four
common methods to create pleats in fabrics are:
a. Stitching: - These types of pleats are made by stitching the top part of the
pleats, then pressing the rest of the length.
b. Heat-pressing fabric: - Heat pressed type of pleats uses a mechanical force
to pleat the fabric, and heat to fix them. For a permanent effect, only polyester
can be used. The effect doesn’t last on natural fibers.
c. Using chemicals: - Chemicals can be used to set pleats in natural fibers.
Depending on the effect needed, different chemicals are applied on fabrics,
as well as heat and sometimes pressure. Fabrics are chemically pleated by

Easy Learning
 53

meters, not after being cut or sewn. It makes these fabrics harder to cut and
sew
d. Handmade: - Handmade pleats are made by expert pleaters only, this is quite
technical to achieve.
Types of Pleats
a. Side pleats: - These are also known as knife pleats. The knife pleat is the
basic pleat used in sewing. Normally the under pleat will be half that of the
over pleat.
b. Box pleats: -These combine two approaches to create the box pleat. There
is a left-hand flat pleat followed by a right-hand flat pleat which
together forms box effect. Inverted box pleats have the "box" on the inside
rather than the outside.
c. Accordion pleat: - It looks like an accordion because it is formed by two
pleats which both have the same length. It's a form of tight pleating which
allows the garment to expand its shape when moving.
d. Crystal Pleat: - Crystal pleating is a very small accordion pleat with both sides
of the pleat measuring about 2 to 3mm.
e. Sunray Pleats: - A Sunray pleat is a graduated accordion pleat that is pleated
in a semi-circle. The pleat starts off very small at the hip and gets bigger closer
to the hem.
f. Fancy Pleats: - With new technologies a wide rage of fancy pleats are used
in designing.

4. Tucks: - Tucks are kind of like pleats. The difference is that tucks are stitched at
their base so that the folds remain secured. The volume needed is twice the size of
the final tuck. Lightweight fabrics are best for sewing tucks. Different Types of Tucks
are:

Easy Learning
 54

a. Pin tuck: - A pin tuck is a very narrow tuck made at regular intervals, mostly
parallel to each other. They form a regular decorating element in kids’ dresses
and nightdresses. Tucks can be used pretty anywhere but it is on bodices that
you see often.
b. Spaced Tucks: -These are tucks which have a width of 1/4 inch from the fabric
folded edge; they are also spaced apart.
c. Cross Tucks: - Cross tucks are made by folding and stitching both horizontally
and vertically, creating a cross in the middle.
d. Corded Tucks: -These are tucks with yarns, cords or embroidery thread added
to the edge of the tucks.
e. Shell Tucks: - For making shell tucks, first make spaced tucks, make it flat and
stich in the middle parts which creates a scalloped look in the tuck. This can be
easily made by fashion maker machines.
f. Twisted Tucks / Wavy Tucks: - These are simple tucks sewn across the fabric
and then stitched down in a back and forth manner making waves.

Easy Learning
 55

SESSION 2.4: SOT – EMBROIDERY AND CREATIVE

TECHNIQUES
INTRODUCTION
Embroidery is an ancient variety of decorative needlework
in which designs and pictures are created by stitching strands of some material on to
a fabric. The art of decorating fabric with yarn or thread and needle, this ornamental
needlework can be done by hand or on a machine. Embroidery consists of several
basic stitches that define the needle art.

Hand Embroidery Stitches

Many types, variations and combinations of hand stitcheds
are used in embroidery.
Sl. Type of
Use Examples
No. Stitches
- Used to stitch the outlines or inner lines in a
design
- Running stitches can be used to fill design
as in "Kantha embroidery”

Outline- - Beads and sequences can be included in Running Stitch

these types of stitches. Back Stitch
1 Stitches
- Looping or whipping can be done for more Stem Stitch
decoration.
- Designs with narrow lines and emphasising
of a filled design can be done with these
stitches.

- These stitches can be used for outlining as

Chain Stitch
well as filling.
Lazy daisy Stich
Chain - These are made by loops - open or closed.
Feather Stitch
2 Stitches - Lazy - daisy stitches can be used to stitching
small petal or leaves in a design.
- Whipping, interlacing, beading etc. add more
decoration to these stitches.

Easy Learning
 56

- Creates shading or solid filling in design

areas
Satin Stitch
- Satin stitches are suitable for filling small
Filling Long & Short
areas.
3 Stitches Stitch
- Long and short stitches are suitable for
Fishbone Stitch
relatively larger areas.
- Fishbone stitches are best filling stitches for
leaves and petals of a floral designs.
- Knot stitches are used to create knots in a
design. French Knot
Knot
- French knots are usually used in the centre Bullion Knot
4 Stitches
of the floral designs.
- Beautiful designs can be made with varieties
of knot stitches.
- These are also known as counting stitches.
Cross Stitch,
Marking. - Usually worked on matte cloth or canvas.
5 Star Stitch
Stitches. - Used for marking and stitching letters and
numbers in embroidery.
- These stitches are usually used to finish the
Blanket Stitch
edge of the fabric in a decorative manner and
Buttonhole
the border designs neatly.
Border Stitch
6 - Border stitches are usually stitches in two or
Stitches Herringbone
more rows.
Stitch
- They secure edges and to add textural
dimension to the designs.

Creative Embroidery Techniques

Different types of techniques in embroidery are used for
surface ornamentation. Some of them are discussed here.
a. Applique Work: - Applique work is the technique of applying one fabric to
another in a decorative manner using buttonhole stitches. This is a popular way
of decorating fabrics. Pieces of one fabric is applied to the surface or
background of another fabric: Appliqué work can be done on any type of fabric

Easy Learning
 57

Applique pieces can be taken from any type of fabric which do not ravel easily
Cotton, velvet etc.
The main stitch used for appliqué work is buttonhole stitch.
In some varieties of appliqué works, chain, blind hem or couching can be applied
to the applique Motif: Usually large floral designs are used. Cartoon characters
make an attractive look to children's garments. Monograms can be made with
applique work.
Appliqué work is a main decoration of kid's garments
Ladies garments like kameez, dupatta, sari etc. can be decorated with this work
Applique work can be also used to decorate household textiles like bed
coverings, pillow covers chair backs, table sheets etc.
Appliqué work can be overlaid or inlaid. In overlaid appliqué
the appliqué piece is attached to the surface of garment and buttonhole stitch is
worked around it. Sometimes slip stitch or couching can be used in overlaid
appliqué. In inlaid appliqué, the appliqué piece is attached on the wrong side of
the garment. The buttonhole stitch must be done on reverse direction, the looped
end towards inner side of the design.

b. Smocking: - This is done by gathering and embroidering over the gathers. This
can be worked only over a plain cloth.
At first gathers are made by hand using running stitch.
Then work desired stitch over the gathered fabric. This is used to decorate
waistline, sleeve, neckline, yoke and any other part of the garment. This stitch
looks attractive and is liked by many. The amount of material required for
smoking is two to three times the width of the finished article. Stitches used are:
- Stem Stitch
- Cable Stitch
- Herring bone stitch
- Knot Stitch
c. Cording: - Cord embroidery is the process of sewing fancy yarn, tapes or ribbons
to fabric. The cording embroidery has a three-dimensional. Cording embroidery
is a specialist embroidery technique, which let us to sew on materials, patterns
made of ribbons, beads, cords or decorative chains (e.g. metal or plastic chains).

Easy Learning
 58

Different names are used for this work depending upon the type and materials
used such as ‘couching’ ‘ribbon embroidery’ ‘bead embroidery’ etc.
With the use of embroidery machines for decorating
materials, the work has become extremely simple and fast. Cording embroidery
allows us to sew on different materials decorative elements such as:
˗ Tapes,
˗ Beads,
˗ Decorative chains
˗ Cords.
d. Kamal Work: - “Kamal Kadai” is an Indian embroidery style native to the state of
Andhra Pradesh. Kamal work primarily uses needle weaving to stitch beautiful
flowers. This beautiful embroidery gives a 3D effect to the designs.
Motifs used in Kamal work has a specific style. The pattern
has a step like appearance. Strong plain woven fabric is suitable for Kamal work.
It is usually done with thick thread. The technique of Kamal kadai work is simple
needle weaving technique. Woven trillis stitch is used in Kamal work. Mainly used
to decorate kurthas, saris etc.
e. Chicken Kari Work: - ‘Chikan’ is a traditional embroidery style from Lucknow,
India. This embroidery technique is popularly used to adorn beautiful kurtas and
sarees and even home decor items.
‘Chikan’ work is a combination of many different
embroidery stitches, flat, raised and knot stitches. In ‘Chikan. work some of the
designs are worked from the back of the fabric and others from the front.
Chikankari has flourished owing to its variety in stitches and designs. There are
10 principal stitches made from raw skeins of thread and another 26 stitches to
adorn the work are employed. Herringbone stitch is mainly used in ‘Chikankari’.
Some other stitches used are:
- Running stitch
- Stem stitch
- Chain stitch– used to design the outline of leaves and petals.
- Detached chain stitch
- Satin stitch
- Fish bone stitch
- Shadow stitch – Here the thread work is done on the back side.

Easy Learning
 59

‘Chikankari’ produces stunning effects on sheer

fabrics for the shadowy effect that it gives. ‘Chikan work can be done on any
kind of fabric but mostly sheer fabric is preferred for the shadow effect they give.
They are mostly done on Malmal cotton, Cambric, muslin, voile, organza, silk,
crepe, organdy chiffon, and tassar. When this work is done on net it gives a
lace like look which is absolutely stunning.

f. Kantha Work:- ‘Kantha’ is an embroidery style that originated in West Bengal.

In the past, it was used to transform old, used fabric into an embroidered textile.
The embroidery is executed on layers of old white cotton saris at are stitched
together with simple running stitch in white thread. The motifs are a simple and
uses different coloured threads. The basic stitch used is running stitch along with
satin stitch and chain stitch.
‘Kanthas’ can be beautifully used as quilts. It was
presented to the bride and groom as well as used to wrap valuables and gifts.
Kantha worked is used to decorate bags, book cover, etc. Nowadays, Kantha
embroidery is done on single layer or white or coloured fabric base using
contemporary motifs. The product range include stoles, dupattas, saris and suit
materials.

SESSION 2.5: SOT – IMPARTING COLOUR

INTRODUCTION

Imparting colour makes the fabric attractive. Different

methods are used from the ancient period to make the garments attractive by applying
colours. The two common methods are dyeing and printing.

DYEING

Dyeing is a method of applying various colours and their

shades on to a fabric. Dyeing can be done at any stage of textile manufacturing – fiber,
yarn or fabric. Colour fastness depends upon two factors - selection of proper dye and
the dyeing method. Dyes are the substances used for colouring the fabrics. Different
types of natural and synthetic dyes are used in textile industry. Methods of dyeing may
be:
a. Stock Dyeing: - Stock dyeing is used to dye fibers. In this process the stock of
fibers are rotated in the dye bath then removed and dried. This method is

Easy Learning
 60

expensive. But it enables the dyestuff to penetrate to the fibres thoroughly and so
the colour is likely to be fast. Woollens are usually stock dyed. Dope dyeing is the
method of dyeing synthetic fibers at fiber stage.

b. Skein Dyeing: - Yarns are dyed in skeins or packages. Cotton and linen are
generally dyeing at the yarn stage. Skeins of yarns are hung on rods. Then that
are placed in a dye bath. These roads are rotated to circulate the skeins through
the dye bath. In package dyeing the spools of yarns are arranged in perforated
roads and then immersed in a tank. The dye is forced through these to get colour.
Yarn dyeing is less costly than raw stock dyeing.

c. Fabric Dyeing: - The finished fabric passes through a dye bath and absorbs the
dye stuff from the solution. Woven or knitted fabric can be dyed in batches in fabric
dyeing. Colouring can be done according to the trends and the wastage is
minimized in this process. Beck dyeing, pad dyeing, jet dyeing are examples of
fabric dyeing methods.

PRINTING

Textile printing is the process of applying colour to a fabric

in definite patterns or designs. Textile printing is related to dyeing. In dyeing, process
the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one colour. In printing one or more colours
are applied to fabric in certain parts only, to get patterns. Printing can be done in
different ways.

a. Block Printing: - This is one of the oldest and simplest methods of applying
designs on the fabric. In this method wooden or metal blocks with carved design
are used. The material to be printed is spread on a padded table. The designed
block is dipped in the dye paste is stamped on the material and allowed to dry.
The process is repeated over the entire fabric surface which is to be printed.

b. Roller Printing: - Roller printing is machine counterpart of block printing. In roller

printing, engraved copper cylinders or rollers take the place of the hand carved
blocks. The colour is fed on to the designed roller with the help of a colour
furnishing roller. The cloth is passed between designed rollers and smooth
cylinder rollers with rubberized blanket; the design is printed on the surface of
the fabric. After this the cloth is passed through drying and steaming chamber to
fix the colour. The number of rollers used in printing depends on the number of
colours used in the design.

Duplex printing machine prints both sides of the fabric

simultaneously.

Easy Learning
 61

c. Stencil Printing: - Stencils are made by cutting the design in cardboard, thin
fiber sheet, wood or metal. Place the fabric on a padded table. The stencil is laid
on the fabric at required place. Dip the sponge on the dye paste and dab on the
stencil through open spaces.

d. Screen Printing: - Screen printing is an easy and widely used method for
printing. Screen printing is used for large and finer patterns. It is a slow process
but can be effectively used on knitted fabric to produce a large number of
designs. It is also known as silk screen printing because the screens were made
of fine, strong silk threads. Today they are also made of nylon, polyester or metal
wires.

The fabric to be printed is spread smoothly onto the table.

The frame with the screen is then placed on the material. (The design on the
screen is made by blocking the unwanted areas with a light sensitive chemical
substance). The dye paste is brushed or poured on the screen. Then dye is
forced through its unblocked areas, onto the fabric with a rubber edged
squeegee. Based on the type of screen used it may be – flat screen printing or
rotary screen printing.

e. Digital Printing: - This is the latest printing technology and is improving day by
day. Digital designs and printing is more popular nowadays. This printing allows
to achieve unlimited colour options and design variations.

f. Tie & Dye: - This is a form of resist dyeing. It is simple method and yet many
fascinating designs are produced in the fabric. ‘Bandani’ saris of Gujarat and
Rajasthan are made by this method.

The parts of the fabric or the yarn which are to resist the
dye are tied with strings or narrow strips of cloth according to the design.
Marbling, knotting, spirals, stripes, co-cantered circles are some of the designs
produced by tying the thread differently. The strings or the stripes are waxed to
increase the resistance and so get better results. Soak the prepared fabric into
the dye bath. Rinse the cloth under and allow to dry. Cut the strings from cloth or
garment.

g. Batik: - Batik is a resist printing process for making beautiful designs on fabric.
Wax is used to prevent dye from penetrating the cloth, leaving blank areas in the
dyed fabric. First, the wax is applied the outline of the pattern. The cloth is then
immersed in the dye bath. The area of the cloth where the wax is applied will
remain white. The unwanted portion absorbs colour which appear in a design
form. This art of resist printing very popular in Indonesia.

Easy Learning
 62

FABRIC PAINTING

This is an easy and popular method of ornamenting fabric

with paints. Acrylic or fabric paints are used for painting. Good quality fine brushes of
different sizes are required for this method. Using starch removed fabric and drying
for 24 hours and reverse ironing, increase the colour fastness. Common methods of
fabric painting are: -

a) Outlining: - Design outline is drawn with narrow brush, neatly. Dots and lines
can be also used for outlining to get an embroidered look.

b) Filling: - In this method, the figure or shape is filled with either a colour, or
colours or with a pattern suitable for the design like dots or lines.

c) Shading: - Shading is using different shades of a colour in a design. It can be

created by applying media more densely or with a darker shade for darker
areas, and with a less densely or with a lighter shade for lighter areas.

d) Shading: - It is a dry brush method. The design can be formed by inward or

outward strokes by brush.

e) Mural: - This is very popular today. To give the garments a rich look variety
mural designs and colours are given.

SESSION 2.6: FLAT SKETCHES AND TECHNIQUAL

DRAWINGS
INTRODUCTION
Designers present their ideas through fashion sketches.
The main goal of a fashion sketch with a model wearing the clothes is to show
the mood, the proportions, and the fabric movement & to suggest a styling.
But for the production purpose simple sketch with more
detailing is important. These drawings are called fashion flats. The ability to
draw technical flats is an essential skill for every fashion designer.
A flat sketch or fashion flat refers to two dimensional linear
drawings of the garment, as it is laid flat on a table and drawn from above. Flats will
have all the design details we want to be included in the garment. A fashion flat must
also contain the following design details:
 Clear view of the complete silhouette
 Exact depiction of all style lines
 Accurate display of all style elements such as pockets, collars, sleeves, etc.

Easy Learning
 63

Technical Drawing

Technical drawings are flat sketches with details of the

garment written in text (as callouts)
Importance of Flat Sketches and Technical Drawings
 They are production oriented.
 They must represent the real garments to be produced.
 The technical drawings must follow industry norms in the use of symbols.
 They must use a standard template and common terminologies.
 Flat sketch is an important part of the garment specification sheet or tech pack
that goes to the patternmaker and sewing team.

Easy Learning
 64

 They give the patternmaker and the sewing teams all the technical components
that make up each garment.
 Flats helps to try a number of variations.
 Flats helps the merchandizing team to execute the sample.
Developing Flat Sketches and Technical Drawings
Traditionally technical flats were drawn by hand using a
pencil on paper. Nowadays flats are usually made with the help of software programs.
But learning to draw flats by-hand helps to understand proportion and flat styling
before diving into complicated CAD Software.
The industry standard is to present flats with perfect
symmetry, clean lines and true to life proportions. Digital drawing programs such as
Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw, Manga Studio, and Photoshop etc are used for drawing
flats. Many techniques are used for drawing flats. Drawing technical flats must follow
some rules or guidelines.
 Choose Correct Templet
 Use Correct Tools
 Create Symmetrical Drawings
 Give it a Perfect Clarity
 Be Detailed as Possible
 Include multiple views of the garment
 Keep it Simple
 Include all the necessary details
Tools and equipment used for hand drawing and CAD Drawings.
- Body measurements for the size.
- A sketch or photo of the garment.
- Drawing Paper and Tracing Paper
- A pencil, Eraser & Sharpener
- Microtip pens
- Straight ruler and French curve
- Computer with the required software and printer for CAD drawings.

Drawing Silhouettes
Flats serve the purpose to clearly show the design
elements therefore keep the drawing relatively simple. The classic approach is to use
just black ink lines.

Easy Learning
 65

Easy Learning
 66

Drawing Garment & Components

1. Neck lines
2. Collars
3. Sleeves and cuffs
4. Skirts
5. Pants
6. Dresses
7. Plackets
8. Pockets
9. Ruffles
10. Flounces

Easy Learning
 67

SESSION 2.7: PATTERN MAKING

INTRODUCTION

A pattern is a two-dimensional cut-out of individual parts of

the garment. The paper patterns are placed on the fabric and cut fabric pieces are
stitched together to construct a garment, which comfortably fits around the three-
dimensional body.

Different Methods of Pattern Development

1. Drafting

2. Draping

3. Flat Pattern Making

Drafting: -

Drafting is a scientific method of developing patterns using the actual

body measurements taken from a person or body form or a well-fitting garment or any
standardizing chart. Success in drafting depends on the accuracy of the body
measurements used.

Drafting Method: -

1. Creating basic blocks and their adaptation to create different styles of garments:
- Basic blocks or basic slopers drafted using a specific set of measurements
and include only the minimum wearing ease. The basic blocks are: Basic
Bodice Front, Basic Bodice Back, Basic Skirt Front, Basic Skirt Back, Basic
Sleeve.
2. Using body measurement to cut garment directly on fabric: - Most custom tailors
use this method. They draft the patterns of the individual garment parts directly
on the fabric adding the necessary seam allowance.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Drafting

No. Advantages Disadvantages

1 A good starting point to gain Dependent on the accuracy of body

expertise in pattern making. measurements.

2 Provide perfect fitting for custom- Technical understanding of patternmaking

tailored garments. is required.

Easy Learning
 68

3 Useful for personal use and for 2-dimensional method, makes it difficult to
local tailors and boutiques. visualize.

4 Opportunity to adapt It is only the preliminary step in the creation

of garment.

5 The foundation remains as it is Care should be taken to add the required

for future use. seam allowance.

6 It is also easy to create multiple

designs using a single basic
block.

Drafting of Basic Bodice Block

Body Measurements:

1. Length of Bodice Block : 15”

2. Across shoulder : 15”

3. Bust/Pivot Point : 9”

4. Distance b/w two Pivot points : 7”

5. Round Bust : 36”

6. Round Waist : 30”

Steps of Construction:

Front:

0-1 = length of bodice

0-2 = ½ of across shoulder

2-3 = 3/4” for shoulder slant

0-4 = 3”, Join 3-4 for shoulder

0-5 = 4” for front neck dept or as per choice

Join 4-5 for neck curve

0-6 = ½ of 0-1 minus 1”

6-7 = ¼ th Bust round + 1/2“ for ease

Drop a perpendicular line from point 3 to line 6-7 and mark it 13

Easy Learning
 69

X is the midpoint of 3-13,

X-X’ = ½” for Armhole shape

Shape the Armhole from 3-X’-7

1-8 = ¼ Waist round + 1/2“ for ease + 1 ½ ” for dart intake

Join 7-8 to give the side shape

Mark the pivot point 14 from 4, 4-14 = 9” such that 14-9 is ½ of distance between
two pivot points (3.5”)

Darts:

Waist Dart: 1-10 = 9-14,

waist dart will be at point 10,

Dart width= ¾ ” both sides,

Dart length: ½ “ away From Pivot point 14

Side Dart: Mark point 11 by going down 4.5” from point 7 for side dart,

Dart width= ½ “both sides,

Dart length: 1” away From Pivot point 14

Armhole Dart: Mark point 12 at the deepest point of armhole for armhole dart,

Dart width= ¼ “ both sides, Dart length: 1” away From Pivot point 14

Easy Learning
 70

BACK:

0-1 = Length of Bodice block

0-2 = ½ of across shoulder

2-3 = 3/4” for shoulder slant

0-4 = 3”, Join 3-4 for shoulder

0-5 = 1” for back neck depth or as per choice

Join 4-5 for neck curve

0-6 = ½ of 0-1 minus 1”

6-7 = ¼ th Bust round + 1/2 “ for ease

Drop a perpendicular line from point 3 to line 6-7 and mark it 13

12 is the midpoint of 3-13,

Shape the Armhole from 3-12-7

1-8= ¼ th Waist round + 1/2 “ for ease + 1 ” for dart intake

Join 7-8 to give the side shape

Mark the pivot point 14 from 4, 4-14 = 9” such that 14-9 is ½ of distance between
two pivot points (3.5”)

Drafting of Basic Sleeve Block

Measurements:

Full length : 21”

Round bust : 36”

Sleeve bottom : 9”

Steps of Construction:

0-1 = ¼ th round bust minus ½ “

0-2 = Full length of sleeves

Draw a rectangle 0-1-2-3 where 0-1= 2-3 and

0-2= 1-3

1-4 = 1/12 thround bust +1/2 “

2-5 = ½ of Sleeve Bottom , Join 4-5

Join 0-4

Easy Learning
 71

6 is the midpoint of 0-4

6-7 = ¾ “ for back armhole

8 is the midpoint of 4-6 and 7 is the midpoint of 0-4

8-9 =1/2 “ and 6-7 = 1/2“

Shape the front armhole from 0-6-9-4

Shape the back armhole from 0-7-8-4

Drafting of Basic Skirt Block

Measurements:

Full length : 21”

Round bust : 36”

Sleeve bottom : 9”

Steps of Construction:

0-1 = ¼ thround bust minus ½ “

0-2 = Full length of sleeves

Draw a rectangle 0-1-2-3 where 0-1= 2-3 and 0-2= 1-3

1-4 = 1/12 thround bust +1/2 “

Easy Learning
 72

2-5 = ½ of Sleeve Bottom , Join 4-5 & Join 0-4

6 is the midpoint of 0-4

6-7 = ¾ “ for back armhole

8 is the midpoint of 4-6 and 7 is the midpoint of 0-4

8-9 =1/2 “ and 6-7 = 1/2“

Shape the front armhole from 0-6-9-4

Shape the back armhole from 0-7-8-4

Draping: -

Draping enables the designer to see the design emerge in reality by

draping the fabric on a dress form. It gives for trying out alternative styling and seeing
their results instantly in a true to life three-dimensional form. The individual pieces are
then joined together with pins and draped on the dress form for to see the final look.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Draping: -

No. Advantages Disadvantages

1 Easy for the designer to review It is an expensive method.

any design idea.

2 Modify the unattractive aspects This process requires the use of dress
forms, in various sizes.

3 Unlimited scope to express their Unsuitable for mass fashion garments

creativity

4 Pattern emerges out of the fabric Wastage of muslin, since the process of
draped and provides good fitting. experimentation

5 Correct visualization of style It is a time-consuming process

elements is introduced.

6 Provides a more accurate Used only on high fashion garments

visualization of design.

7 Custom-size can be developed Not be suitable for novice fashion

designers.

Easy Learning
 73

Flat Pattern Making: -

In the flat pattern making process, a new pattern is created by

adapting a drafted block into a new style and design. After the development of the new
flat pattern, the original basic block is retained as it is for future use.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Flat Pattern Making: -

No. Advantages Disadvantages

1 Highly suitable for mass Expert technical knowledge, skills to
production of garment in multiple manipulate the pattern is required.
sizes.
2 Easy to introduce newer styles 2-dimensional depiction is not always easy
to visualise
3 Basic pattern or slopers can be It requires practice to perfect flat
used again and again to develop patternmaking.
several designs.
4 Flat patterns can also adapted.
5 Easy to modify/alter the pattern.
6 Grading in different sizes can be
done easily
7 It includes necessary information
& markings.

Types of Patterns:

1. Working Pattern: A working pattern Is just a traced copy of the original slopers
on which further modification are done.

2. Production Pattern: It is pattern is the final pattern with no further change and
has all the information required by production team.

3. Commercial / Readymade Patterns: - These are prepared by independent

pattern masters or companies and sold to others for a price.

4. Personal Patterns: - These are exclusive pattern sets created for making
custom fitted garments for any particular person.

5. Graded Pattern: - The process of Grading involves proportionate increase or

decrease in the size of the pattern, without changing the fit of the garment.

6. Computer Aided Patterns: - These are pattern sets developed, improved and
finalized on computer screens with the help of any of Computer Aided Design
(CAD) software applications.

Easy Learning
 74

Pattern Information:

The information contained in the production pattern fall into the following categories:

a) Text in formation

b) Symbols and markings

a) Text information would include the following:

1. Piece description stating the name of the garment part represented by

it.

Example: Shirt front, Skirt front, etc.

2. Size description stating graded size to which it belongs, example: Junior

Size, L etc.

3. Style description and identification mentioning the name assigned by the

company to the style along with its identification code.

4. Cutting instruction indicating the number of pieces to be cut per garment.

Example: Cut1, Cut2, etc

Easy Learning
 75

b) Symbols and Markings

1. Seam Allowance

2. Size Selection Line

3. Cutting Line

4. Stitching line

5. Arrows

6. Bust Point

7. Cut on Fold Line

8. Darts

9. Round and square Dots

10. Grain Line

11. Lengthen or Shorten

lines/ Adjustment line

12. Notches

************************************************************************************************

Easy Learning