A.

How I #MadeIt: Lisa Aiken

We're spoilt with a constant stream of style inspiration on our Instagram feeds,
however, if you're not already familiar with Lisa Aiken, take a moment to hit follow
right now. With that said, Net-A-Porter's fashion director and street style star,
Aiken, is more than an immaculately dressed front row fixture. Aiken is responsible
for scouting new brands from around the world for the e-comm giant, spotting the
designers and brands about to break, working closely with the buying team to bring
the best emerging brands onsite. That It Bag or those soon-to-be-sold-out boots
you've had at the top of your wish list? Lisa is probably part of the reason why
they're on your radar. Somewhere in between flying over the globe for each fashion
week and overseeing Net-A-Porter's buy, Lisa recently launched her own blog Two
Fashion, offering another means for us to spy on her style and discover the new
international brands as she does. Aiken invited Refinery29 to Net-A-Porter's shiny
HQ to discuss her career trajectory, the multifaceted nature of her job and how she
decides what to wear each day.

After university, what was your first career move before starting at Net-A-Porter? Was
your current role always the end goal? I’m not sure I believed fashion director was a
realistic end goal, however it was certainly the dream job from the outset. I began
studying fashion marketing at Northumbria University, part of which involved a year
in industry and I undertook an internship at Matches Fashion. I was offered a
permanent role there within a matter of months and ended up leaving my degree to
take the job. Looking back it was the biggest decision of my career, but it paid off
hugely because in this industry experience is everything. Studying was still very
important to me, so I finished my degree at London College of Fashion on a part-time
basis. During the five years I spent at Matches, I worked my way up from an intern to
fashion market editor, before deciding I needed international experience and moved to
Munich to work for MyTheresa as editor. I joined Net-A-Porter in 2011, spending time
as market director, style director and in January 2016 was appointed retail fashion
director.
What does your average working day look like? No two days are ever the same.
Fashion weeks and buying seasons are getting longer and more frequent; this year
alone I have been to New York, Milan, Paris, LA, Sydney and Copenhagen for
fashion weeks, as well as Hong Kong, Singapore and Dubai on work trips. While on
the road, I attend runway shows, collection reviews in showrooms and press
appointments. In the office, as retail fashion director, my role very much sits between
content and commerce so I’ll meet with multiple departments throughout the day;
everyone from our creative teams through to PR, marketing, buying, styling & social

Are there any women in the fashion industry who inspire you? Who have been your
mentors? I’ve been very fortunate to have worked with inspiring women (and men)
throughout my career, many of whom have become trusted friends and advisors.
The people I admire most in this industry all have one thing in common: they are
kind to those around them, no matter their position.

What would be your advice to those trying to break into fashion buying and e-
comm? Firstly, be prepared to work very hard, I can tell you first-hand that fashion
isn’t always glamorous. It is an incredibly competitive industry so you have to really
love what you do. Finally, always be kind, confident and approachable, whether
you’re an assistant in the fashion cupboard or doing admin on work experience,
introduce yourself and make yourself known… I always remember personalities.

How has the industry evolved since you started out and how have you adapted?
The industry is far more open than ever before. Previously all shows, appointments,
shoots, etc. happened behind closed doors but with digital content and social media,
everyone has access to everything in real time. It is a very exciting period,
particularly for emerging talent, but it does mean that you are surrounded by the
industry 24/7 and the pace continues to increase. I have learnt to broaden my
horizons in terms of where we source new brands, react much more quickly to what
is going on and also share my life & perspective on the industry through social
media
You travel constantly. How do you keep a semblance of a social life and normal
routine? I am a creature of habit, actually, so being in a different hotel every week
initially proved challenging. However, I have trained myself into a morning routine
that I stick to no matter where I am. I wake up between 6-6.30am, do 30 mins of
cardio (either a run or a circuit programme from one of the many fitness apps on my
phone) and then enjoy my English breakfast tea. After that, anything can happen but
I feel set up for it. I try and combine my social life with work. Some of my best
friends are people I’ve met through working in the fashion industry; we’ll meet up
when we’re in the same city and catch up over breakfast or dinner.

How do you decide what you're going to wear each day? I decide what I’m going to
wear in the morning, when I’m in the shower. It’s very much based on my mood,
the weather and what I have on my schedule that day. I often come up with a single
piece that I want to wear for whatever reason, and build an outfit around that. I wish
I was more organised in that sense, but when I pre-plan I just don’t feel like me.

How do you pack for fashion month? I am at the opposite end of the spectrum when
it comes to packing, and am extremely organised. I start by making a list and writing
everything I’m going to wear for each week in order of looks; everything from
jackets, tops, jeans, shoes and accessories. I pack each piece and tick every item off
as I go – it means I don’t forget anything and I don’t over-pack. I also keep
accessories, toiletries and jewellery all together in one suitcase and have another for
clothes. When you travel as much as I do, it’s important to know where everything
is, for example, if I arrive at a hotel late at night, I need to know where my toiletries,
chargers and pyjamas are straightaway, so I need to have a very orderly system.
Everything goes in the same place in my suitcase for every trip. Lastly, I take a
carry-on with me containing all of my essentials, which I could never replace should
my luggage go missing. This list includes, but is not limited to: my favourite pair of
Acne jeans, a leopard-print Marc Jacobs dress from 2012, all of my jewellery, a
satin Topshop skirt and whichever shoes I am wearing on repeat.

Which brands are you obsessed with at the moment and why? Definitely Balenciaga
– with Demna Gvasalia at the helm it is setting the trends of the moment, not just on
the runway but also in the showroom, with new denim shapes, easy wardrobing
pieces with a signature twist, sneakers and kitten heels. There is also a host of new
and contemporary brands that are filling my wardrobe, everything from the most
directional pieces at AWAKE, Magda Butrym and Rejina Pyo to print dresses and
statement sweaters from Rixo London and Ganni. I love wearing brands that are still
under the radar and feel like an insider secret.

B. So This Is What It Means To Be A Fashion Buyer

HuffPost Style series that profiles men and women across every area of the fashion

industry and explores how they rose to the top, how they thrive and practical advice

they have for young people trying to break into their world. It's safe to say that most

people who work in the fashion industry did not study economics in college or start

their career working as an analyst at a bank. But then again, Shira Suveyke, Vice

President of Global Buying at THEOUTNET.COM, is not most people. The Boston

University grad started working at Deutsche Bank right out of school, but quickly

learned that it wasn't for her. So she called up Ralph Lauren, convinced them that her

business background would make her a good candidate for a career in buying and
merchandising and the rest is history. With past stints at J.Crew and Gilt Groupe,

Suveyke definitely knows her stuff as a buyer. And since it's one of the most elusive

positions within the fashion industry, we were anxious to sit down with her to learn

everything from how she chooses items for THE OUTNET.COM to how to break

into the field. Here's what we learned:

On what to study in school: I don't think there is necessarily one path that you have to

take in your education. There is a business side of buying and you do need to have an

analytical part of you, but you don't have to study business. I think it's more the

practical experience that you ultimately get. So I always say to people: try it out, try

out what you love. If you think you want to be buyer, go work a retail job, go intern

during the summer. Get that experience.

On what makes a great buyer: In terms of actual technical ability, you have to be

balanced between art and science. You have to have a strong sense of numbers and

you've got to have a good eye. You've got to be creative. One in absence of the other

makes a lopsided buyer. But the other thing that I think is incredibly important is

confidence. It's an industry that has a lot of opinions, a lot of people and so much of

what you're doing is looking at a product and saying, 'Is this good or not?' So it's gut,

it's eye and if you're not confident in yourself and your opinion of what you're doing,

you're going to get lost. It's definitely not an industry made up of wallflowers.

On how she buys for different markets: I oversee our buying team globally, so our

team is buying for all of our markets -- we are servicing over 170 countries. We have

so much information about our customer, now that THE OUTNET.COM is five years

old, [and] there are certain trends and historical information we have about who she is

and how she shops regionally. So [we know] that black is very important for our New

York-based customer and know that color is very important for our customers in the

Middle East. There are also differences in sizing. We know that our costal customers
tend to skew a little bit smaller. There are certain areas where dresses sell better and

other areas where separates do better. Then there are certain brands that have a

regional resonance. So right now, the London design scene is so important and we are

doing incredibly well with brands like Roland Mouret, Peter Pilotto and Erdem, but

they always perform just a bit better in the U.K. They are fantastic for us globally, but

we know we are going to get that pop from our UK customer, so we try to think about

that.

On how she determines which items to buy: It isn't just my eye or the buyer's eye --

there is certainly more of a process than just that aesthetic. We have a really great

merchandise planning team that's helping us with looking at all of the data on a buy.
But we are looking at, what we call, KPIs, key performance indicators, when we

analyze a buy. So first and foremost, how do we feel about the brand? How do we

feel about the product? Is it on-trend? Are the colors salable? Are the sizes right for

our customers? And then we're going into the real numbers: how much cash is it?

What's the price point? How many units can we sell? And that's when we get into that

analysis. And then it could even be a brand that we think is fabulous, a product that's

fabulous. But sometimes the data tells you that we need to tweak it. So it's really

important that you consider that information -- it shouldn't override the aesthetic, but

it needs to be considered because that's ultimately how you are going to make money.

On how she knows what to buy for future seasons: We can't overly rely on the data or

we'll just be where we have been in the past. It's the buying team's job to know where

the puck is going, where is she going to shop in six months, not where did she shop

six months ago. So of course there is going to be something that tells you...look at

skirts. Okay, if I were to just look at previous season's data, it would tell me that

skirts are not such an important category, but we know that skirts are one of the most

important trends on the market. We know that they are on all the runways, we know
that the skirt and top is becoming is a new way to basically wear a dress - and it's

cooler. So if my buyers just looked at the history, we wouldn't go after skirts but we

know they are important, so we are going to go buy them. There's a lot of creativity.

On the one item that always sells well: I would say, for the past several seasons,

leather has been pretty foolproof. Whether it's a leather jacket, leather pants, a leather

skirt, a leather top - leather sells.On what makes a great buyer: I do think there is an

element that has to be innate - sort of gut-driven. Eye is something you kind of either

have it or you don't. There is some training -- I think there are certainly some great

training grounds you can get at different design houses. I know for myself, each of

the different companies that I've worked for, working with different creatives, you
think about fashion and aesthetic in a different way and every brand has it's own

stamp as well. But there is also an element that you kind of have or don't.

C Interview: Ciara Flood, Fashion Buyer For Selfridges

A lot of people dream of working in the fashion industry. Irish woman Ciara Flood
lives and breathes and sleeps it in her role as a buyer for luxury department store
Selfridges. Here she talks to us about how she managed to carve out her dream
career, what her day-to-day life looks out, and how she keeps sane with the business
and jet-setting of it all. Prepare to be overwhelmed at the hard-working fabulousness
of it all.

You studied business and politics in Trinity. Did you always know you wanted a
career in fashion? I was always interested in the industry. My mother's fascination
with clothing was definitely a driving force behind that. I spent my childhood
watching her shop and talking about clothing. Fashion buying was something I
thought could be quite enjoyable to do. However, 13 years ago when I did my leaving
certificate it wasn't a choice on a CAO form. My guidance counsellor didn't have a
leaflet on 'how to be a fashion buyer' either so I knew I'd have to carve this career out
myself. A business degree seemed like a good first step. The summer after my third
year at Trinity I realised I needed to get some serious experience over the summer
months. At the time, it was pretty hard to get a fashion buying internship having no
connections and knowing nobody who has ever worked in the industry. I had just met
my husband-to-be, Jonathan Legge, who encouraged me to apply for internships
within the design industry as a starting step. I interned with Tom Dixon for three
months as their press and marketing. Not quite fashion but a foot in the door to a
whole new world of London and design.

You then went to the London College of Fashion and studied fashion marketing. Was
that tough? Facing into my finals at Trinity I knew I needed a fashion name on my
CV. LCF were offering a Masters in Strategic Fashion Marketing which sounded
lofty enough to convince my parents that it was worth a year of my time and the loan
I would take out to support it. After week one, I knew that I would have time on my
hands to coincide the masters with some more practical work experience. It's
important to remember that most of the colleges offering buying or fashion
degrees/masters are businesses capitalising on wealthy international students, though
some of them can be worthwhile there is nothing quite like interning to get into this
game. My first fashion internship was with a fashion PR in London (who shall remain
nameless), a first glimpse into some of the crazy personalities in this world. The
colour yellow was banned, and staplers were a complete no-no! I then moved onto
Modus Publicity a much bigger fashion PR agency in London. I got my first taste of
real fashion here; helping with the set-up for one of Erdem's first shows was a real
highlight. I then felt ready to apply for my dream internship, Net-a-Porter, I had been
watching the business for years and it seemed like they were at the complete cutting
edge of retail and of servicing the modern fashion/luxury consumer. My internship
was again within the Press team; I used my access within the business to write my
dissertation for my Masters. I interviewed the then Head of Marketing Alison
Loehnis, now Managing Director. My thesis title was Net-a-Porter, A Case Study:
Delivering Luxury Through Service Innovation?

How did your masters lead to fashion buying? My internship ended, and I spent the
summer finishing up my thesis. Marketing and Press had been the basis of my
experience to this point, but I knew buying was what I really wanted to do, even at
this stage it still seemed like a pipe-dream. September rolled on and after a short stint
at a consultancy company specialising in online fashion marketing a role came up at
Net-a-Porter for 'Buy Team Assistant'. I applied and through recommendations from
my internship I got the job! I would be assisting Holli Rogers, Buying Director at the
time, and a team of 8 buyers.

Can you remember your first day? I can - I wore a Luella jacket and was completely
overwhelmed with everything. The buyers were just back from New York, and it was
the start of the fall-winter fashion season. I was thrown right in the deep end. I
worked in this role for 18 months until there was an internal call out for employees to
put together convincing proposals for future businesses within the Net-a-Porter
group. A couple of us proposed menswear and were immediately assigned onto a
committee to develop the brand Mr Porter. I then took up the role of Assistant Buyer,
assisting leaders in the men's fashion buying world and introducing them to the inner
workings of an online pure player. Working on a start-up within an existing
organisation was a real privilege and where huge learning happened for me.

You worked there for nearly five years. What was the best lesson you learned during
that time? There was a huge amount of lessons learnt at Net-a-Porter. Natalie
Massenet wanted to create a fantasy fashion office, where everyone dressed in
designer clothing with white roses on every desk. She always had a single pure
vision, and though my access with her was limited, I think that clarity of vision is
truly important in a leader. Employees loved listening to her and bought into her
thinking. Being a buyer is a lot like being an entrepreneur, so having clarity in your
decision-making and vision is something I learnt from her.

Did you have a mentor? I have worked directly with some of the best people within
this industry, from Net-a-Porter to Selfridges. I try to take something from everyone I
have assisted or worked for. You'll always find people with different skill sets, and
it's interesting to see how they play to their strengths. Some buyers are product
focused, others people. I realize now that a good buyer must do both in equal
measure. My mentor remains to be my dad, my biggest champion and first to give
advice. He has been my sounding board for lots of my career decisions. He is a
successful businessman and is very good at helping me break down complicated
decisions or situations.

As a buyer, you travel a lot and attend fashion weeks around the world. What
destination gets you excited? New York, I absolutely love it. I love the pace of the
city and the positivity of the people. I think it's a great place and would move there in
a heartbeat. We stay at The Bowery in New York, which also helps.

Any packing tips? It's taken me a while to perfect packing. Two years ago when I
joined Selfridges I bought a Rimowa Salsa sport suitcase because most of the buying
team had one and they raved about it. I have to say it's a complete delight to pack and
so easy to move around airports and train stations. Pre-collections are easier to pack
for, as there are no shows so there is a little less pressure. For show seasons however
I'll write a quick list of outfits and start compiling the various pieces in the spare
room a couple of days before travel. Laundry between cities can be tricky to
turnaround, so I rely on a laundry service in London, which collects and drops, much
to my fiancé's annoyance. He thinks this is luxury at its most extreme. I think it's
quite clever.

Do you have a work wardrobe of sorts? What labels do you gravitate towards? I'm
pared back in my personal wardrobe and quite functional in my dress. My uniform
currently is Tabitha Simmons flats, some form of shirting; I tend to be a little more
playful in my trouser choice, culottes, silk pants. I have been sporting a Saint Laurent
neat little bag for the last two seasons that I love.

What's your favourite item in your wardrobe? My grandmother's sheepskin gloves.

She was a real beauty and super gentle lady. She gave me the gloves a year or so ago
when sheepskin was the business. She died earlier this year so having these gloves is
even more important to me now.

You have to keep on top of emerging trends - how do you do that? What are your
must-read publications and sites? Is there any fashion journalist you can't miss
reading? Living in a city like London really helps to keep on top of what's relevant. I
have always people watched and this I suppose is still the most authentic way of
figuring trends. Instagram has changed all this of course; we now have insight into
every fashion influencer's world and eyes on a daily basis. There are magazines I
always read, Style magazine brings me such joy every Sunday. I have read this every
week since I was in school. It's super relevant and speaks to the moment, unlike other
monthly magazines. I try and pick up both US and French Vogue when travelling.
UK Vogue is a monthly resource and Style.com is my directory.

You worked in menswear buying for so long - have you noticed a real shift in how
men are dressing? At Mr Porter we really tried to capture a way men could buy into
fashion without looking too fashion. I think men's fashion has become more
accessible for the everyday man, men's fashion now is based around the idea of
inherent style that I think is a lot more digestible for the male customer. I still spot
men at Dublin airport in bootleg jeans and pointed shoes and a part of me dies, but I'd
rather that than a preened fashion man at every corner. The level of pea-cocking at
men's shows outstrips women's at every level. I have never seen competitive street
style like it? don't ever let anyone tell you the men's fashion industry is more
'relaxed? than women's, this is simply not the case.
Is it a tough industry? What characteristics should someone who hopes to work as a
buyer hone? Of course it's a tough industry. It's ever evolving and changing so you
need to embrace change at every turn, you need to adapt and be dynamic and
resilient. Like any industry it's made up of the best and worst, just make sure you are
always surrounded by the best and most professional people. It makes the job 100
times easier. The team at Selfridges are amazing.

How do you de-stress after a busy day? Exercise! I always make sure I have
something booked for after work to get me out of the office. Classes are expensive in
London but if I'm booked in I leave the office and make sure I get there. Our work is
never done as buyers. When I was assisting I was always last one standing. It took me
a while to realize that nobody noticed me burning the midnight oil so I now make
every attempt to leave on time, and I'm a happier person for it. Tempo Pilates in
London and the recently opened Barry's Bootcamp on Worship Street are current
favorites. When I'm in New York I try and exercise each morning before the day
ahead. Soul Cycle is just opposite our hotel and my twin sister Orla recently
introduced me to The Class with Taryn Twoomey. It's run out of a fairly dingy studio
in New York, but it's hands down one of the most uplifting classes I've ever been too.

Who should we follow on Instagram, besides you? It's nice to get a break from
fashion at times: @makersandbrothers, a beautiful collection of useful pieces for
the home. @katehudson, she's a cool lady who seems to have a very rounded
perspective on life. For fashion: @pinskyes, editor at Style. I love her feed and love
her style.

You get an email from a young person who wants your job - what are the three key
pieces of advice you give them?

1. Don't sit still on the shop floor waiting to become a buyer, get into a buying/
fashion office, move city if you need to. There are lots of jobs in this industry
and its well within your reach.
2. Intern and stay in contact with the people you have interned with. Even if
nothing is available after you intern, something may come up.
 3. Embrace any new development in technology, be all over and be an expert on
it. Technology is changing how we consume fashion at every level and
companies will expect you to be fully versed on this.

D. I want your job: Fashion buyer

Lindsey Friedman, 27, is a product development manager at John Lewis department
store in London, where she is in charge of buying men's branded casual-wear.

What do you actually do?

I work with clothing suppliers to select and build the perfect range of clothes for our
target customer. I need to find the right balance between choosing some quirky, on-
trend fashion pieces, as well as other clothes, such as classic white T-shirts, which I
know will sell really well. A lot of the job involves building relationships with our
suppliers, negotiating prices and making sure that deliveries of new stock arrive on
time. I also work with department managers and a merchandising team within the store
to build my vision.

What's your working pattern like?

It's very fast-paced. There are two key seasons: in January and February, I buy clothes
for the following autumn in six months' time, and in August, I buy clothes for the
coming spring collection. During those seasons, I travel to a lot of trade shows in
Barcelona and Florence on big buying trips. Day to day, I usually get in at about
8.30am and work until 6.30pm. I look at budgets and gross profits, and work out how
much I have to spend and how much I need to make in sales for the year. I also keep
an eye on sales, monitoring our bestselling clothes and getting them back on to the
shop floor quickly, before they sell out.

What's the best thing about it?

The most satisfying thing for me has been building my department into a credible
fashion destination. People often think about John Lewis as just a place to buy their
cushions, so we've had to shout about the fact that we do fashion, not just home-ware.
When you've spent months planning a new collection, seeing it hit the shop floor is so
exciting. It's amazing when we take a gamble and include a quirky, unusual look and it
takes off and sells really well.

What's not so great about it?

It's my job to stay on top of the trends and create newness. If I want to try out a new
brand, I have to drop an existing brand, even if we've always had a long working
relationship. That can be unpleasant. You have to take the emotion out of it and
remember that it's business. On the other side, we're playing catch-up in fashion terms,
and sometimes we get rejected too. There are cool brands of clothing that we'd like to
sell that don't want too many accounts, so they won't let us stock them.

What skills do you need to be a great buyer?

Any type of fashion degree is a good way to start – my degree was in textiles and
apparel management. But the main thing is to get retail experience by working on the
shop floor. You need to be really enthusiastic and motivated. You have to be strategic,
analytical and very well-organised, and you need to have a creative vision of what the
perfect collection should look like. And you also need to be numerate, because you
need to balance your budget.

What advice would you give to someone who wanted to be a buyer?

The first thing is to get some retail experience. Many big department stores run
executive training programmes, and if you can get a place on one, it will move you up
the ladder very quickly, from being a buyer's administrative assistant, to an assistant
buyer to a junior buyer. You need to keep on top of the fashion industry and keep
reading fashion magazines. Learn as much as you can about the product you are
buying, and think about the target customer you are selling to.

What's the salary and career path like?

At the lower end, a buyer's administrative assistant might earn £20,000 a year, but an
experienced buyer might earn more than £40,000. You can work your way up to
become a buying manager for a department store, or move into the supply side. Tons
of people dream of opening boutiques, but it's very risky.
E. What do Fashion Buyers Do At Fashion Week? Naomi Pike (for Vogue)

Fashion week might appear to be all glitz and glam, new-season reveals, fashion
kisses and late-night parties, but in reality it's a business hub that employs far more
people than those that get papped on the FROW. One group of people whose jobs are
less transparent than that of the editors writing show reviews or influencers snapping
selfies is buyers. Employed by boutiques and department stores alike, these important
industry-shapers decide what goes into shops, and therefore, essentially into our
wardrobes. As London Fashion Week begins, we caught up with 26-year-old Harry
Fisher, senior buyer at one of our favourite Soho-based boutiques, Machine-A, to
understand what it takes to break into buying and how having a signature taste can
impact your work overall:

Why do you go to fashion week? As a store, Machine-A is very involved in fashion

week. It’s a great time to see everyone from the industry – especially from overseas -
in store and at the shows. We attend fashion week shows to see what our existing
brands are showing for the coming season. And also, to scout new designers for
upcoming seasons. This London Fashion Week I’m most looking forward to Fashion
East, Paula Knorr, Ashish and Dilara Findikoglu.

How has see-now/buy-now impacted on buyers? I think the idea behind

see-now/buy-now is quite exciting for buyers: it generates impulsive buys, and instant
hype. However, I think big brands doing this has put major pressure on younger and
smaller designers.

Do you know immediately that something will be a sell-out from the moment you
see it on the catwalk?  Most of the time what we are doing at shows is trying to get a
feel for a collection, what our customers want and what trends they are moving
into. We are very connected with our clients, and sometimes even have a single client
in mind when selecting pieces.

How much does the hype an item receives on social media impact how likely you
are to buy it in? We definitely have to take into account many aspects of a collection
when buying. Social media can give us an insight into what people love and will want
to see move of in store. As a store, our buy is renowned for representing the catwalk
looks quite literally. So, when buying we are always looking for the stand-out pieces.

How important are re-sees for buyers? Surely you can’t take it all in that quickly
in one show!  To be honest, seeing the show and then having showroom
appointments are equally as important. You can’t do one without the other. The show
tells us a story with every look, whereas the showroom we get to revisit this, check
the fabrics and see what stories work well together. It takes a lot of revisiting
collections, its near impossible to remember everything we see.

How important is it for different stores and shopping destinations to have their
own identity? To us this is so important. Our customers come to us for show pieces!
As soon as a sales agent mentions how commercial something is, we know this won’t
work for us. Most stores share a lot of the same brands in the same square mile, so it’s
vital for our buy to reflect our identity.

How do you take your taste out of the equation and think more about your
customer base? I think at Machine-A our taste is a big part of it. We are working so
closely with our brands, and we truly believe in them. I think if this question was
asked to somewhere else then the answer would be completely different. Most of time
we have to think about what clients want, and what we think they will be looking for
for the season ahead in terms of trends.

What’s the biggest difference between buying mens and womenswear? I think
buying menswear comes more naturally to me. Women’s is a lot of finding a story,
and predicting trends. But we are so lucky in London to have such inspiring students
from the likes of the Royal College of Art and Central Saint Martins.
How does it feel when an item you’ve seen on the catwalk, then arrives in store
and then sells out?  When you really believe in something from the shows or
showroom, and then it arrives and quickly sell outs, it does make you feel like you
did a good job, and there’s a certain rush about that feeling!

How did you get into buying? I studied Fashion Merchandising at LCF and then
furthered that at Westminster. I worked for a few big high street companies on
placements, and then a smaller Chinese company. Alongside I was modelling, which
is where I met founder and buying director of Machine-A, Stavros Karelis. Stavros
has been my mentor over the last three years. I feel really lucky to have such a
talented and respected boss, which has also let me grow with Machine-A.

How important is it to find a store that has an identity that mirrors yours? It
really depends what kind of buying you are doing. For me Machine-A is a way of
life! But I think the best thing to do is aim for somewhere or things that you love, and
build on that.

Do you think good taste and also business acumen can be taught? I think there is
really something about the creativity and commercial skills that buyers have that
makes them successful. You can’t be a good buyer without both!

Do you need to be good at maths to be a buyer? You need good basic maths skills.
You need to know about revenues, VAT, exchange rate. But these skills can easily be
taught, its basic maths that’s just being used every day.

What are your top five career tips for becoming a buyer?

1. Also keep your eyes peeled

2. Be prepared for the market to make a sudden change at any moment
3. Work hard
4. Know your clients!
5. Historical sales evidence is always key
 Seminar Questions Buyer interviews
1. List the different types of outlet that these five individuals currently work for.
(Department Store, on-line retailer,
2. How many of them studied practical design courses?

3. What other subjects have been studied by these interviewees?

4. Which sources for staying abreast of trends are mentioned?

5. Of the foreign destinations visited by the buyer for Net-a-Porter, which do you
think is the most unexpected?

6. What products does the buyer for The Outnet claim always sell?

7. What is some of the advice given to would-be buyers?

8. How many countries does The Outnet service? 170

9. What was unusual about the first internship done by the buyer for Selfridge?
9.
10. List ten key skills/personal characteristics required in a buyer
11.
11.What does the buyer for John Lewis not enjoy about their job?

12. What is the starting salary mentioned for a buyer’s admin assistant? £

13. What major development by Net-a-Porter was one of these buyers involved in?

14. What side-line does the Net-a-Porter have?

15. What criticism is levelled at fashion marketing courses available in the UK?
16. Hearing what adjective used for is an alarm bell for the Machine-A buyer?

17. What rather surprising observation is made about the participants in menswear
collections by one of the buyers.
Seminar Questions Buyer interviews

1. List the different types of outlet that these five individuals currently work for.
Department store (Selfridge, John Lewis); on-line pure players (Net-a-Porter,
The Outnet); small independent boutique (Machine-A)

2. How many of them studied practical design courses? One: Textiles and
Apparel Management (int 4).

3. What other subjects have been studied by these interviewees? Fashion

marketing (int. 1); Economics (int. 2); business/strategic fashion marketing
(int. 3); fashion merchandising (int. 5)

4. Which sources for staying abreast of trends are mentioned? Vogue magazines
(monthly); Style magazine (weekly); Instagram; people-watching

5. Of the foreign destinations visited by the buyer for Net-a-Porter, which do you
think is the most unexpected? Dubai, not generally thought of as a fashion city.

6. What products does the buyer for The Outnet claim always sell? Leather items

7. What is some of the advice given to would-be buyers? Get retail experience;
keep abreast of the trends; know your customer; study the product; do
internships; embrace technology

8. How many countries does The Outnet service? 170

9. What was unusual about the first internship done by the buyer for Selfridge? It
was with Tom Dixon (a furniture designer)

10. List ten key skills/personal characteristics required in a buyer according to

these accounts. Enthusiasm; numeracy; creative vision; organization; strategic-ness;
clarity; adaptability; resilience; kindness; confidence; approachability; application
(hard-work)

11. What does the buyer for John Lewis not enjoy about their job? Having to drop
brands

12. What is the starting salary mentioned for a buyer’s admin assistant? £20,000

13. What major development by Net-a-Porter was one of these buyers involved in?
Menswear start-up

14. What side-line/hobby does the Net-a-Porter buyer have? Blog

15. What criticism is levelled at fashion marketing courses available in the UK? That
they are exploiting international students. They offer limited amount of contact time.

16. Hearing what adjective used about a garment acts as an alarm bell for the
Machine-A buyer? Commercial.
17. What rather surprising observation is made about the participants in menswear
collections by one of the buyers. That men are much greater show-offs than women