Launchers, Lobbers, and Rockets Engineer - Make 20 Awesome Ballistic Blasters With Ordinary Stuff (PDFDrive)

CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
GOOD, SAFE FUN
SIMPLE AND SUCCESSFUL

Straw Blowgun
Micropult
Rubber Band Rockets
Pocket Bow
BOWS AND SLINGSHOTS

Pulley-Powered PVC Bow & Arrow
Slingshot and Arrow
Duct Tape & PVC Crossbow
Wrist-Mounted Crossbow
MINI MEDIEVAL SIEGE MACHINES

Onager
Da Vinci Catapult
Ballista
CURIOUS CONTRAPTIONS
Roller-Amplified Many-Thing Shooter
Desk Drawer Booby Trap
Poker Chip Shooter
Slide-Action Rubber Band Gun
FIREARMS
BBQ Blaster
Ping-Pong Ball Mortar
Soda Bottle Bombard
Handheld Rocket Launcher
Ballistics Gel Target
RESOURCES
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
INDEX
INTRODUCTION
Create, aim, and fire!
Greetings, aspiring blaster crafter! In your hands is a complete compendium of

instructions to create your own crafty cache of DIY shooters!
Look no farther than your kitchen drawer and hardware store to find everything
you need. The launchers and lobbers in this book are built from a few plastic
bottles, some pipe, a little woodcraft and wire, and a whole lotta hot glue. The
rocket fuel ranges from rubber bands to hair spray. You don’t need to be a rocket
scientist to get started, but you might feel like one by the end!
You can build a blowgun from a plastic straw in 15 minutes. Spend an afternoon
crafting a PVC crossbow. Transform a BBQ lighter into a mini BB shooter in a
single sitting!
Ingenuity, action, and explosions await!

GOOD, SAFE FUN
All the projects in this book are designed for fun. Most of them are mildly
dangerous. A few of them are extremely dangerous. For me, that’s a good thing:
Creating crossbows and blasters that have real power inspires the maker in me.
It’s empowering to know that I built something that can fire more than 100 feet
(30 m)! Building something that requires caution and diligence teaches
responsibility, a fundamental lesson that all inventors and engineers need to
embrace.
The projects with a warning symbol are designed for adults. If you’re not quite
an adult, I advise creating and using these projects only with adult supervision. If
you’re the adult supervisor, please pay attention every time you fire off one of
the high-powered devices. Always use the same amount of caution as you did
the first time.
The projects in this book that are deemed Extremely Dangerous

have been marked with a WARNING SYMBOL and some information
on how to stay safe while operating them.
Please read each project’s directions and warnings carefully. Be sure to launch,
lob, shoot, and blast off in an area where no one and nothing can be hurt. Be safe
—and have fun!
Disclaimer
The reader assumes all responsibility and risk for the use of the advice,
information, and directions in or through this book. The Quarto Group; the
author, Lance Akiyama; and any affiliated parties do not assume any liability for
the content provided in, or available through, this book.
“The price of greatness is responsibility.

–Winston Churchill”
1
SIMPLE AND SUCCESSFUL
STRAW BLOWGUN
Start your ballistic warm-up with this quick and surprisingly gratifying blowgun!
The steps are simple, but take your time crafting the darts with care to get the
most accurate shots. When you’re finished, you’ll enjoy the satisfaction of
hearing the thwack! of a dart piercing cardboard from 10' (3 m) away!
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
• large milkshake straw
• 3 very small 3/4" (≈ 2 cm) nails
• paper clip
• index card or similarly sized stiff piece of paper
• scissors
• clear tape or masking tape
• hot glue
• cardboard target or box
MATERIAL SUBSTITUTIONS
Large milkshake straw: You can use any tube that has an inner diameter of about 1/2" (1.3
cm) and a length of at least 6" (15 cm). Depending on what the tube is made of, you may
need a power drill to drill holes if you can’t poke holes through it with a nail.
Very small 3/4" (≈ 2 cm) nail: You can use other small finishing nails that range from 1" to 2"
(2.5 to 5 cm), but be sure to use wire cutters to trim the length down to about 3/4" (2 cm).
(Always wear protective eyewear when snipping small items.) If the nail is too heavy or long,
the dart won’t work as well.
1 Make the blow tube.
Use a nail to pierce all the way through one end of the straw. Straighten the
paper clip and thread it through the two holes. Center it and bend both ends
along the length of the straw, as shown. Tape the ends in place. This will prevent
you from accidentally inhaling a dart!
2 Make the darts.
With the scissors, cut a 11/2" × 11/2" (4 × 4 cm) square from the index card. Cut a
slit from one corner of the square to the center.
Cut a small piece of tape and set it aside. Form the paper square into a cone
shape by overlapping the sides of the slit, as shown.
4 Continue wrapping the two sides together, tighter and tighter, until a pointed
cone shape is formed. Use one hand to hold the cone in shape and the other to
apply the prepared piece of tape. Wrap the cone tightly with tape.
5 Trim the bottom of the cone so the diameter is slightly smaller than the
middle of the blow tube. Cut off the very tip of the cone and push the nail
through the hole. Fit the nozzle of the glue gun inside the cone and apply a small
amount of glue to keep the nail in place. Don’t fill the entire cone with glue or
the weight will throw off the dart’s balance.
6 Get ready to fire!
Set up a cardboard target on a wall or table and stand 5 to 10 feet (1.5 to 3 m)
away from it. Load a dart, tail first, into the blow tube. If it doesn’t slide down,
gently blow into the open end of the tube to push the dart toward the end with
the paper clip. Take aim, and forcefully blow into the tube to send the dart
flying!
MICROPULT
You know that sinking feeling when you need a catapult in a hurry and there’s
none to be found? What to do? Build a micropult! It’s quick and simple, yet it
packs a punch with a firing distance of more than 15' (4.5 m)! What sets this
little lobber apart from other tiny shooters is its basket, which adjusts to neatly
fit any small projectile. I used a wad of masking tape for my projectile, but a
jelly bean or mini marshmallow would work just as well.
TOOLS AND MATERIALS

• 2 regular 41/2" (11.4 cm) craft sticks
• 3/4" (2 cm)-wide binder clip
• masking tape
• 2 small paper clips
1 Attach a craft stick to each of the binder clip handles with tightly wrapped
masking tape. The upper stick will be the throwing arm and the lower one, the
base. Unbend a paper clip, then reshape it into a rectangle about 1" (2.5 cm) long
and wide enough to fit over the craft sticks. Position it as shown and tape it to
the underside of the base. This will stop the throwing arm from flipping all the
way forward and hitting the tabletop. Because the throwing arm stops at a
consistent spot, this also makes the micropult more consistent.
2 Make the projectile basket.
Bend the ends of the second paper clip upward, as shown. Tape the basket onto
the end of the throwing arm, about 1/4" (6 mm) from the end. You’ll need that
1/4" to trigger the projectile.
3 You’re ready to fire!
Adjust the ends of the basket to snugly (but not tightly) hold your projectile.
While stabilizing the micropult with one hand, use a fingertip from the other
hand to press down on the end of the throwing arm. Slip your finger off the stick
to release!
RUBBER BAND ROCKETS
Transform any pen-like object into a high-flying rocket with nothing but
common office supplies. Experiment with different rocket fuselages to find the
best performers, then fire up to 50' (15 m) away!
WARNING: Though seemingly simple and harmless, these rockets are fast. Aim carefully!
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
• pen, pencil, craft stick, or another long, slim object
• 11/2" (4 cm) brass paper fastener
• masking tape
• index card or card stock
• scissors
• 31/2" × 1/8" (9 cm × 3 mm) rubber band
1 Make the fuselage.
Identify the heavier end of the pencil or pen. This will be the front of the rocket.
In my example, the end of the pencil with the eraser is heavier. Attach the paper
fastener to the end, as shown, by tightly wrapping it with two pieces of masking
tape. Bend the head of the fastener downward slightly; this will make it easier to
hook onto the rubber band.
Pro Tip: Use Leading Weights

Rocket-shaped projectiles benefit from having the heaviest part at the front. Imagine trying to
throw a plastic straw; it won’t go far. Now imagine taping a small rock to one end. When
thrown again, the weight of the rock will pull the straw through the air and overcome drag.
2 Make the fins.
Cut two triangles from the index card or card stock approximately 1" × 11/2" ×
2" (2.5 × 4 × 5 cm). Neatly attach the fins near the back of the rocket with
masking tape, leaving 1/2" (1.3 cm) of the pencil exposed; this is where you’ll
pinch-grip the rocket when drawing it back. Bend the fins up slightly to decrease
the chance of the rocket colliding with the rubber band.
3 Stand by for take off.

Stretch the ends of a rubber band as far apart as you can between your thumb
and index finger. While pinching the back of the rocket, hook the fastener head
onto the rubber band. Draw it back as far as you can without allowing your
fingers to contract toward each other. Take aim and release!
Note:
Be resourceful! Use whatever materials are available to create your own high-flying rocket!
POCKET BOW
Fire straw arrows at whip-cracking speed with enough force to pierce cardboard!
The surprising accuracy and consistency of the Pocket Bow is due to the notch in
the back of the arrow and the leading weight at the tip. Keep this one in your
back pocket for the moment when the need to strike a bull’s-eye arises!
TOOLS AND MATERIALS

• large straw
• masking tape
• scissors
• 31/2" × 1/8" (9 cm × 3 mm) rubber band
• smaller straw
• smaller straw
• cheap ballpoint pen
MATERIAL SUBSTITUTION
Large milkshake straw: You can use any tube-shaped material that’s a little larger than the
smaller straw on the list.
1 Make the bow.
Wrap one end of the larger straw with masking tape. Pinch it and cut off the
corners to form a point. This notch will help hold the rubber band in position
when you’re loading the arrow.
2 Tape a rubber band near the end of the straw so that when it’s stretched, it
fits neatly into the notch. Cut off the excess straw to shorten the “bow.”
3 Make an arrow.
Create a notch in one end of the smaller straw using the same technique as in
step 1. Remove the ballpoint and ink tube from the pen casing. Insert it into the
straw, leaving the ballpoint tip exposed. Attach it to the straw with tightly
wrapped tape. As with the Rubber Band Rockets project, having a leading
weight increases speed and accuracy.
4 To fire, simply insert the arrow through the front of the bow and hook the
nock onto the rubber band. Pinch the back of the arrow in one hand, and lightly
grasp the bow in the other. Pull back as far as you’d like—and fire!
2
BOWS AND SLINGSHOTS
PULLEY-POWERED PVC BOW & ARROW
Drawing inspiration from compound bows, this design uses a simple pulley
system to create a mechanical advantage. It makes it easier to draw the bow,
while also storing energy efficiently because the bow limbs are pulled directly
toward each other. (It also looks way cooler than a regular bow.) When tightly
strung, you can fire an arrow 15' (4.6 m) in a straight and speedy line, or aim up
and let loose an arc that can reach more than 50' (15 m).
WARNING: This project is exceptionally dangerous! This bow has a 10 to 15 pound (4.5 to 6.8
kg) draw weight, which is enough force to fire the arrows a half-inch (1.3-cm) deep into a
plank of wood. Always load and aim while pointing away from people. Never fire directly at a
hard surface that may cause your shot to ricochet. You can increase the safety of this project
by not sharpening the tip of the arrow.
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
• 32" (81.3 cm) of 1/2" (1.3 cm) schedule 40 PVC pipe
• ruler
• hacksaw or other tool for cutting PVC and wooden dowels
• PVC primer and glue
• 1/2" (1.3 cm) PVC 45° elbow
• two 1/2" (1.3 cm) PVC 90° elbows
• needle-nose pliers
• drill with 1/4" (6.35 mm) bit
• 24" (61 cm)-long, 1/4" (6.35 mm)-thick dowel
• duct tape
• hot glue
• nylon mason line, size #18
• drinking straw that’s larger than 1/4" (6.35 mm)
• scissors
• 22-gauge floral wire
• permanent marker
• spray paint (optional)
Pencil sharpener: You can whittle or saw the dowels to a point.
Floral wire: The wire adds weight to the tip of the arrow. You can substitute by simply adding
layers of duct tape. You can also try adhering something else that adds a small amount of
weight, such as a small handful of paper clips taped to the arrow.
Nylon mason line: You can use regular cotton string or another nonstretch string, however, size
#18 nylon line is the best because of its incredibly high tensile strength, resistance to
fraying, and low friction.
1 Create the bow.
Cut the PVC into two 7" (18 cm) and two 9" (23 cm) pieces. Clear away the
debris.
Note:
For the next step, follow the instructions on your PVC primer and adhesive. Cover your work
surface with disposable paper. Always wear gloves, and work in a well-ventilated area.
2 Apply primer to the 45-degree elbow and one of the 7" (17.8 cm) pieces of
pipe as shown. Work quickly: The adhesive typically sets in about 30 seconds.
To avoid a skewed bow limb: As you assemble the glued pipes, press the bow
against a hard, flat surface to ensure that all the pipe pieces are aligned.
3 Measure and mark a 1/4" (6.35 mm)-wide and 3/4" (1.9 cm)-deep gap at the
end of each limb. Use one hand to hold the bow while it hangs over the corner of
your work table. The weight of the bow hanging off the edge will help keep it
perfectly vertical. Saw through the pipe.
4 Use needle-nose pliers to tear off any leftover PVC in the notch. Clear away
the debris.
5 Drill a hole through the gap, about 1/4" (6.35 mm) from the ends of the limbs
as shown. Cut two 11/2" (4 cm) pieces of dowel and insert them through the
holes.
6 (Optional) Spray paint the bow to give it a polished finish. Avoid spraying
paint on the parts of the dowels that are inside the pipe.
Note:
Read the following steps carefully to ensure that the bow is strung correctly, otherwise you
might end up with a pulley system that creates a lot of friction.
7 String the bow.
Cut a dowel to 4" (10 cm), and sharpen it to a blunt point with the pencil
sharpener. Hot glue the nontapered half of the dowel to the outside of one of the
bow limbs (it doesn’t matter which one). Don’t glue the whole dowel, just the
half that’s covered in tape. The tip of the dowel should be about 3/4" (1.9 cm)
from the end of the bow limb. Further secure it with a piece of duct tape.
8 On the other limb, glue the end of the nylon line. Wrap the line around the
limb at least five times. Apply more hot glue over the wrapped line to prevent it
from unwrapping. Note where the string exits on the side of the limb. As shown
here, the string is exiting on the left side, facing you.
9 Pull the line to the opposite limb, and wrap it around the dowel. The line
goes through the back of the dowel, then over the top, as shown.
10 Pull the line back toward where it started. Wrap it around this dowel as
well, but this time, wrap it from the front first, as shown.
11 Add tension and finish stringing the bow. Use one hand to press down on
the bow, bending the limbs together slightly. Adding tension to the bow before
finishing the stringing process will generate more power.
With your other hand, pull the line tightly around the outside end of the short
11/2" (4 cm) dowel, as shown. It’s important to wrap the line around the same
side of the bow that was noted in step 8. In this case, it’s the left side, facing you.
If the line is wrapped from the other side, it will get in the way of the arrow.
12 Wrap the line around the limb once and slip it under the 4" (10 cm) tapered
dowel. The tapered dowel end should make this step easy.
13 Wrap the line around the dowel and limb at least another three times, then
trim it. Apply a dab of hot glue on the end of the line to prevent it from fraying,
then tuck it snugly under the dowel.
The stringing process is finished! The line is held in place using only friction,
yet it’s very reliable. Because it’s not fixed in place, you can easily unstring the
bow, and even adjust the power by changing how much the limbs are
compressed before finishing the stringing process.
The stringing process is somewhat precise, so reference this photo as you go.
1 Make the Arrow
Cut a 2" (5 cm) piece of straw, and insert an 18" (46 cm) piece of dowel about
halfway into it. Wrap it in duct tape.
2 Pinch the end of the piece of straw and cut off the corners to create the arrow
nock.
3 Sharpen the other end with the pencil sharpener. Wrap about 11/4" (3 cm) of
the dowel with wire. Apply hot glue to prevent the wire from slipping off.
4 Apply a piece of duct tape to both sides of an index card. Cut out three thin
triangles, about 1/4" × 21/2" (6 mm × 6.4 cm).
5 Carefully apply hot glue along the straight edge of the fletching. Adhere all
three to the back of the arrow, about 1" (2.5 cm) from the nock. Space them out
evenly.
Note:
Arrows always have an index fletching. The index fletching is always at a right angle to the
slot in the nock. In this picture, it’s marked with a black line. Read on to the Load and fire!
step to better understand the importance of the index fletching.
6 Identify the firing string.
Examine the three bowstrings: They will cross once, but otherwise should not
interfere with each other. You’ll notice that only one of them is wrapped around
the 11/2" (4 cm) dowels on both sides. The other two are affixed to one of the
limbs. The string that touches both dowels is the firing string. When looking at
the strings, as in this photo, the firing string should either be on the far left or far
right, never in the middle.
7 Add the arrow rest.
This is just a very small scrap of taped index card that’s glued to the 45-degree
elbow. Make sure that it’s on the same side of the bow as the firing string.
8 Test the positioning of the index fletching. Nock the arrow on the firing
string. The index fletching should be perpendicular (at a 90-degree angle) to the
string. The other two fletchings rub lightly against the other strings and may also
brush against the bow when fired; this is normal.
Positioning the fletchings like this will prevent them from striking the bow or
Positioning the fletchings like this will prevent them from striking the bow or
bowstring when fired. This will ensure that your shot is straight and the fletching
doesn’t get damaged.
Tip: Left or Right Handed?

The firing string should be on the side opposite your dominant hand. In my example (image
8), the firing string is the rightmost string, and I am right handed. Therefore, I flipped the
bow upside down so that the firing string would be on the left. Notice that the 4" (10 cm)
tapered dowel is now on the bottom of the bow in the picture on the opposite page. If you’re
left handed, then the firing string would be the rightmost of the three strings. Make sure you
identify the correct bow orientation to match your handedness before adding the arrow rest.
TROUBLESHOOTING
• If the bow is lacking power, be sure to bend the bow slightly while stringing it and that the
string is taut throughout the stringing process.
• Double check that you strung the bow correctly. Check for excessive friction or pinch points
that are hindering the movement of the string.
• Make sure you’re using the firing string. Remember to pick the one that is wrapped around
both pulley dowels.
• If the arrow wobbles during flight, try adding more weight to the tip. Also check your
fletching: Make sure it’s attached perfectly straight and is undamaged.
• Still wobbling? The fletching may be striking the bow or the other strings. Trim your
fletching so that it’s no more than 1/4" (6.35 mm) tall. Double-check that the index
fletching is in the right position.
9 Load and fire! Nock the arrow onto the firing string and place the shaft onto
the arrow rest. Hold the nock in place between your index and middle fingers.
Hold the firing string with just your fingertips; don’t grab or grip the string.
Pull the firing string back until the tip of the arrow is just in front of the hand
gripping the bow.
Never draw the arrow so the point is behind your hand, or you may accidentally
shoot yourself!
You’ll notice that the bow’s shape transforms as energy is stored in the bent
PVC!
For the most accurate shot, don’t pluck or pull at the string when releasing.
Instead, release by relaxing your fingers and allowing the bowstring to slip away
with a twang!
Pro Tip: Take out the Tension
Undo the bowstring once you’re done shooting for the day. If the bow is stored for long
periods while under tension, the PVC limbs will permanently bend, thus reducing the
maximum power you can achieve.
SLINGSHOT AND ARROW
You’ve heard of the bow and arrow, but what about the slingshot and arrow?
This easy-to-build contraption packs all the punch of a bow but in a smaller,
handheld-sized package. With just one long rubber band, you’ll be accurately
firing arrows at least 40' (12 m)!
WARNING: This project is exceptionally dangerous! Like the PVC Bow & Arrow, this slingshot
can fire an arrow deep into a plank of wood. Always load and aim while pointing away from
people. Never fire directly at a hard surface that may cause your shot to ricochet. You can
increase the safety of this project by not sharpening the tip of the arrow.
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
• scissors
• mini hot glue stick
• hot glue
• 23 regular 41/2" × 3/8" (11.4 × 1 cm) craft sticks
• duct tape
• 7" × 1/8" (18 cm × 3 mm) size #117b rubber band
• two 3/4" (1.9 cm) binder clips
• 18" (45.7 cm)-long, 1/4" (6.35 mm)-thick dowel
• drinking straw that’s wider than 1/4" (6.35 mm)
• 22-gauge floral wire
• permanent marker
7" × 1/8" (18 cm × 3 mm) size #117b rubber band: You can tie two regular 31/2" × 1/8" (9 cm
× 3 mm) size #33 rubber bands together.
1 Create the slingshot frame.
Cut off six 3/8" (1 cm) pieces of a mini glue stick.
2 Hot glue four craft sticks together into a square. Glue four of the glue stick
pieces onto the corners as shown.
3 Glue more craft sticks onto the remaining three sides of the glue stick pieces.
4 Glue on additional craft sticks, as shown, to strengthen the frame. The side
that has two pairs of craft sticks glued side-by-side will be the handle.
5 Create the slingshot supports.

Glue two sticks upright at a 90-degree angle next to the handle. Support those
with two diagonal sticks as shown. Be sure to leave about 1" (2.5 cm) of the
upright craft sticks exposed above the point where the diagonal sticks connect.
6 Glue the remaining two pieces of mini glue stick onto the uprights, opposite
the point where the diagonal sticks connect. Attach another pair of diagonal
sticks, as shown. This will further reinforce the uprights.
7 Apply hot glue on the edges of the innermost diagonal sticks and, working
quickly, attach three sticks, as shown. These will prevent the uprights from
bending inward and will provide a place to attach the arrow rest.
8 Create the arrow rest.
Cut two 3" (7.5 cm) pieces of duct tape and align the sticky sides together. Cut
the piece in half to create two pieces approximately 3" × 1" (5 × 2.5 cm). Cut out
a shallow triangle on one end of both.
9 Glue one of the duct tape pieces on each side of the craft sticks, as shown.
Glue the tape pieces together. This creates an arrow rest that’s rigid enough to
hold the weight of the arrow but flexible enough to allow the arrow to pass by
without affecting its trajectory. The triangular gap will help keep the arrow
centered.
10 Add the firepower!
Clip on the 7" × 1/8" (18 cm × 3 mm) rubber band with the two binder clips as
shown. Tape the middle of the rubber band together with a small piece of duct
tape.
11 Create an arrow.
Follow the same steps for making an arrow as shown in the Pulley-Powered
PVC Bow & Arrow shown here.
1 Load and fire!
Slip your nondominant hand under the slingshot frame, and grasp the handle.
Hold the back of the arrow in your dominant hand and fit the nock over the duct
taped part of the rubber band.
2 Temporarily hold the nocked arrow with the same hand that’s grasping the
slingshot by fitting it between your fingers. This frees your dominant hand to
switch positions.
3 Firmly pinch the arrow’s nock from behind the rubber band, using your
dominant hand. Pull back until just 2" to 3" (5 to 7.5 cm) of the arrow remains in
front of the slingshot. Keep the arrow positioned in the center of the arrow rest.
Take careful aim, and release!
DUCT TAPE & PVC CROSSBOW
There are lots of PVC crossbow how-to tutorials, but I found none that were
satisfyingly powerful, simple to build, and constructed primarily out of PVC.
This crossbow is all of that and stylishly designed! Be warned: This project is
relatively powerful and dangerous with a 15-pound (6.8 kg) draw weight. Fire
with safety goggles, and take aim with care!
WARNING: This project is exceptionally dangerous! A 15-pound (6.8 kg) draw weight has
enough force to fire the bolts 1/2" (1.3 cm) deep into a plank of wood. Additionally, having a
trigger mechanism means that there is a chance that the crossbow can be released
unintentionally. Always load and aim while pointing away from people. Always double check
that the trigger is loaded properly before raising the crossbow to fire. Never fire directly at a
hard surface that may cause your shot to ricochet. Never fire at a person or animal. Do not
build unless you can operate the crossbow safely.
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
• ruler
• PVC pipe cutters or hacksaw
• 84" (2.1 m) of 1/2" (1.3 cm) schedule 40 PVC pipe*
• heavy-duty duct tape
• 36" (1 m) of paracord
• power drill with a 1/2" (1.3 cm) bit, and bit that’s slightly wider than the paracord
• hot glue gun
• utility knife
• hacksaw or other tool for cutting into PVC (not PVC cutters)
• safety goggles
• 11/2" (4 cm)-wide binder clip
• metal spoon**
• 16-gauge mechanic’s wire
• 12" (30 cm)-long, 1/4" (6 mm)-wide wooden dowel
• pencil sharpener
• index card
• decorative duct tape (optional)
*Use only new PVC pipe. Don’t use pipe that has been exposed to the sun or has been used in
other applications.
**Use a spoon with a wide, flat handle that is difficult to bend.
1 Use the PVC cutters or a hacksaw to cut the PVC into three 20" (51 cm)
pieces for the stock, and one 24" (61 cm) piece for the bow.
2 Assemble the stock.
Bundle the three 20" (51 cm) pieces of PVC, then wrap the ends tightly in duct
tape. Press the tape into the grooves as you wrap it around. This will ensure that
at least one side will have a grooved channel to help guide the crossbow bolt.
3 Apply three 20" (51 cm) pieces of tape along all three grooves in the stock.
Again, press the tape into the grooves.
4 Prepare the bow by covering the 24" (61 cm) piece of PVC with duct tape.
The tape will help prevent the bow from releasing shrapnel in the unlikely event
that it breaks. Plus, it looks way better!
5 Attach the bow.
Measure and mark the center of the bow. Line it up with one end of the stock.
Tightly wrap a piece of duct tape around the bow and the front of the stock,
securing the bow in place. Again, press the tape into the groove.
6 Wrap a second piece of tape around the first piece, all the way around the
front of the stock and press it into the groove. (I’ve photographed this step with
white duct tape to better show where the tape is being added, but you can use
any color you like.)
7 Repeat the taping method from the last two steps to further secure the joint.
This part of the crossbow will be under stress, so it’s important to layer the tape
to prevent it from ripping.
8 String the bow.
Using a drill with a bit that’s slightly wider than your paracord, drill a hole into
each end of the bow. Insert one end of the paracord into the hole and push it
toward the front of the bow. Use a bit of wire to help push it through because
it’ll be a tight fit. Loop one end of the paracord around the other, as shown.
9 Make sure the paracord is pulled tightly toward the underside of the bow.
This will help ensure the bolt stays in the groove during firing. Wrap the
paracord tightly around the bow several times, but do not wrap it around itself.
On the last wrap, apply hot glue to the bow and adhere the paracord to it.
10 Allow the glue to dry completely, then repeat on the other side while pulling
the paracord taut. It’s easiest to do this step with a friend: Have one person keep
the paracord taut while the other wraps the paracord and glues it in place. The
bowstring is done!
11 Create the trigger notch.
Measure 14" (35.5 cm) from the very front of the bow and mark the spot on top
of the stock. Using the utility knife, cut away about 1/2" (1.27 cm) of duct tape
between 14" and 141/2" (35.5 and 36.8 cm). This will prevent the tape from
gumming up the saw blade.
12 Saw straight down about 1/2" (1.3 cm) into the stock at the 14" (36 cm)
mark. Now saw diagonally at the 141/2" (37 cm) mark toward the first cut, as
shown. Clean up the PVC debris.
13 Test the trigger notch.
On a solid, nonslip surface, press the end of the stock into the ground and grasp
the bowstring with both hands. Slowly push the bowstring down, as shown, until
it slips into the trigger notch. It will require upward of 40 pounds (18 kg) of
force to string the bow the first time. It might be a little unnerving to see the
PVC bend so much: Put on your goggles and push hard!
14 Leave the bowstring in the trigger notch for 5 minutes. This will help the
PVC bend into its resting state, making it much easier to load in the future.
Release the string by inserting the handle of the metal spoon into the trigger
notch and using it as a lever. Lift the string out of the notch with a snap! Expect
the bowstring to be a little slack now.
15 Make the trigger.
Cut away a little more tape at the trigger notch, where the trigger hole will be
drilled as shown. Using the 1/2" (1.3 cm) drill bit, drill a hole into the center of
the stock in front of the notch. This step may be challenging because the drill bit
may slip out of place at first. To prevent this, tightly grasp the stock with one
hand to prevent the pipe from being pushed apart by the force of the drill. Work
slowly and diligently.
16 Tape the handle of the binder clip onto the stock as shown. Tape a spoon
onto the upper handle so that the end of the spoon’s handle rests just below the
trigger hole.
17 Push on the spoon to test that the handle lifts through the trigger hole. If
desired, bend the spoon into a more comfortable position, as shown.
18 Build the bolt clip.
Cut an 8" (20 cm) piece of wire and tape the ends near the sides of the binder
clip. Bend the wire so it’s pressed into the center of the stock. This will keep
bolts in place while you take aim. The crossbow is done!
1 Make the Crossbow Bolts

Split one end of the dowel with a utility knife. Carefully insert a small piece of
wood or tiny pebble, as shown.
2 Wrap duct tape tightly around the split, leaving about 1" (2.5 cm) of space
for the nock. The nock is needed to catch onto the bowstring.
3 Sharpen one end of the dowel with a pencil sharpener. Wrap about 5" (12.5
cm) of wire around the tip of the bolt. The added leading weight will help pull
the bolt through the air with its momentum.
4 Cut two triangular fins from an index card, each about 21/2" (6.4 cm) tall and
11/2" (4 cm) wide. Tape them to the end of the bolt. Make sure the fins are
aligned with the nock, as shown. Be sure they are directly opposite each other
and perfectly straight. Cover the fins with duct tape for added durability.
Pro Tip: Safer Bolt Alternative

Instead of sharpening the tip of the dowel, cover it with a pencil-cap eraser.
5 Load and fire.

Put the front of the crossbow on the ground, and firmly step on the bow with the
tips of both feet, as shown. Using both hands, draw back the bowstring into the
trigger notch.
6 Position the bolt under the bolt clip. Make sure the bolt’s nock is directly in
front of the trigger notch. Keeping your hands clear of the top of the stock,
squeeze the spoon trigger to release the bowstring and fire!
WRIST-MOUNTED CROSSBOW
The twang! of a crossbow string as it releases is deeply satisfying, and if the
crossbow is attached to your arm when you fire it, the twang is positively
cyborgian! This Wrist-Mounted Crossbow packs plenty of satisfaction and will
let you fire bolts up to 40' (12 m) away!
It might take a little extra diligence to get the trigger working just right, but let
me assure you: It’s worth it!
TOOLS AND MATERIALS

• two 12" (30 cm) wooden paint stirrers
• hot glue
• eleven regular 41/2" (11.4 cm) craft sticks
• utility knife
• wine cork (synthetic preferred)
• two 31/2" × 1/8" (9 cm × 3 mm) size #33 rubber bands
• wooden clothespin
• cotton string
• drill with 1/8" (3 mm) bit
• two 8" (20 cm) large straws
• one 81/2" × 11" (21.6 × 28 cm) sheet of craft foam
• masking tape
• scissors
Wine cork: The cork is used to create space between layers of craft sticks. You can substitute
it with small 1/2" (1.3 cm) blocks of wood (such as those sawn from a square wooden dowel),
or cut and layer bits of craft sticks as shown in the Ballista project shown here.
Craft foam: Use felt or other soft fabric. You can also use Velcro straps or any other means to
strap the crossbow to your wrist.
1 Create the crossbow.
If your paint stirrers are thin like mine (about 1/8" [3 mm] thick), then you’ll
need to hot glue two together to prevent them from bending.
2 Glue three sticks to one end of the paint stirrers, as shown. Place the two
outer sticks at a wide angle, about 145 degrees.
3 Use the utility knife to carefully slice the cork into fourths, then cut each of
those segments in half.
Note:
The distance between the two center pieces must be at least 1/8" (3 mm) greater than the
width of the straw you’ll shoot. If the gap is too narrow, the straw will get stuck. In this
example, the gap is about 3/8" (1 cm) wide.
4 Glue the cork segments to the craft sticks, as shown.

5 Glue another layer of craft sticks in place in the same position as the sticks in
step 2. (Two layers of sticks separated by the pieces of cork creates a rigid
structure that won’t bend easily under the strain of the rubber band.)
Glue two more sticks from the bow to the paint stirrers. These will further
prevent the bow from bending under the force of the stretched rubber band.
6 String the crossbow.
Cut two small pieces of craft stick, about 11/2" (4 cm) long. Glue them onto the
flat sides of the outermost cork pieces, as shown. When the glue has fully set,
loop the rubber band around one side, give it a single twist, then stretch and loop
it onto the other side. Twisting the rubber band will make it easier to load the
crossbow later.
7 Create the trigger.
The wood surface inside a clothespin’s pinching end doesn’t have much grip.
Intensify the grip by applying a small bead of hot glue inside the opening as
shown. While the glue is hot, repeatedly open and close the clothespin until the
glue dries, taking care not to glue the trigger shut. This will create a textured,
rubbery surface that will improve the clothespin’s ability to hold onto the bolts.
8 Glue the clothespin/trigger onto the paint stirrers. The pinching end of the
clothespin should be 6" (15 cm) from the front of the crossbow. Further improve
the clothespin’s grip by wrapping a rubber band around the opening, as shown.
9 Cut a 15" (38 cm) length of string. Glue about 2" (5 cm) of one end of the
string to the top of the clothespin. Drill a 1/8" (3 mm) hole through the paint
stirrers, directly behind the clothespin.
10 Glue one of the straws onto the side of the crossbow, as shown. Make sure
the end of the straw is lined up with the front of the crossbow. Thread the string
through the hole in the paint stirrers, then through the straw. This will reduce the
string’s friction, and make it easier to pull the trigger.
11 Create the trigger handle.
Wrap the remaining 3" (7.5 cm), or so, of string around a craft stick. Apply hot
glue and a second craft stick to keep the string in place.
Important Note:
When the string is pulled taut, there must be about 1" (2.5 cm) of string between the front of
the crossbow and the trigger handle. If the string is too short, you won’t be able to fit your
fingers over the handle. If it’s too long, it will take more effort to open the trigger. Wrap or
unwrap string around the craft stick until you have the correct distance.
When you have the right amount of string wrapped around the handle, glue another craft stick
onto the first. This will lock the string into place and prevent it from unwinding.
12 Create the straps and padding.
Cut three pieces of craft foam: one 11" × 21/2" (28 × 6.4 cm), one 11" × 11/2" (28
× 4 cm), and one 1" × 3" (2.5 × 7.5 cm).
13 Wrap the 11" × 11/2" (28 × 4 cm) piece of foam around your hand at
midpalm. Holding it in position, slip it off the palm, then using hot glue, attach
the ends to permanently maintain the shape.
14 Repeat this process with another strap that’s about halfway up your forearm
using the 11" × 21/2" (28 × 6.4 cm) foam strip.
15 Flip the crossbow upside down. Glue the forearm strap at the very back of
the crossbow and the palm strap about 1" (2.5 cm) from the front. Glue the 1" ×
3" (2.5 × 7.5 cm) piece next to the palm strap to protect your knuckles.
Measurements may vary, depending on the shape of your arm.
1 Make the crossbow bolts.
Cut a 1" (2.5 cm) piece of hot glue stick and tape it to one side of the remaining
straw. Wrap a layer of masking tape around the other end.
2 Pinch the taped end of the straw and cut off the two corners with scissors.
This creates a nock that will fit over the rubber band. The layer of tape will help
prevent the straw from splitting over time.
3 Load and fire.
Slip your arm through the straps. Place your fingers over the trigger handle, as
shown at left.
4 Insert a bolt through the front of the crossbow between the cork pieces.
Hold the bolt very close to the nock and fit it onto the rubber band. Open the
clothespin by pulling on the trigger handle. Push the bolt toward the open
clothespin. Release the trigger handle once the bolt is at least 1/2" (1.3 cm) inside
the trigger.
5 Take careful aim, and give the trigger handle a light squeeze to send your
shot flying!
TROUBLESHOOTING
The trigger-handle string length and thee trigger-handle string length and the sensitivity of the
clothespin trigger are the two key things you may need to fine tune.
• Make sure the string that connects to the trigger handle is the right length. When your
fingers are resting on it, they should be pointing straight forward, as shown in step 3. If not,
tighten the string by wrapping it around the handle and gluing it in place. If the string is
just 1" (2.5 cm) too long or too short, it won’t work well.
• If the clothespin is too difficult to open, try loosening the rubber band that’s wrapped
around it.
• If the bolt is slipping out from the trigger prematurely, make sure to push the nock as far
back into the clothespin as you can.
• Lastly, double-check that the string is not getting caught on hot glue, getting stuck in a
crack between two materials, or otherwise encountering excessive friction.
3
MINI MEDIEVAL SIEGE
MACHINES
ONAGER
Long before rubber bands were invented, clever engineers powered their war
machines with bundles of twisted rope, which are also called torsion bundles.
Perhaps the most iconic catapult to use this technique is the Roman onager. Now
you can wage mini, desktop-dimension warfare with this relatively simple-yet-
satisfying design, powered with ordinary cotton string. Your classmates and
coworkers won’t know what hit ’em!
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
• 1/2" (1.27 cm)-thick square wooden dowel, at least 19" (48 cm) long
• saw or another tool to cut the dowel
• hot glue
• drill with 1/4" and 1/8" (6 mm and 3 mm) drill bits
• 2 regular 1/2" × 41/2" (1.3 × 11.4 cm) craft sticks
• 4 paper clips
• plastic bottle cap
• masking tape
• cotton string
• 1/8" (3 mm) bamboo skewer
• pencil
MATERIAL NOTES
Bamboo skewers are crucial for this project: Accept no substitutes. The strands of fiber in
bamboo are resistant to the crushing force of the torsion bundle. Skewers come in large packs
and many are not manu-factured well. Take time to select a skewer that seems exceptionally
thick and durable.
1 Cut the square dowel into two 4" (10 cm), two 3" (7.5 cm), two 2" (5 cm),
and one 1" (2.5 cm) pieces.
2 Create the base.
Glue the 4" (10 cm) and 2" (5 cm) pieces of dowel into a rectangle, as shown.
Make sure the short pieces are positioned between the long pieces.
3 Create the upright.
Glue the 1" (2.5 cm) piece of dowel between the two 3" (7.5 cm) pieces, as
shown.
4 Liberally apply hot glue in two corners of the base. Pinch the bottoms of the
upright together slightly and insert it into the base. Push the bottoms of the
upright firmly into the glued corners.
5 Using the 1/4" (6 mm) bit, drill holes into the base, directly behind the
uprights. Make sure the holes are aligned with each other. Run the drill through
each hole several times to remove rough edges and debris as much as possible.
The string will feed through these holes.
6 Using the 1/8" (3 mm) bit, drill a 1/2" (1.3 cm)-deep hole into the base,
alongside of each upright. These holes will hold pegs for the winding
mechanism.
7 Create the throwing arm.
Glue two craft sticks together.
8 Glue and tape two paper clips to one end of the craft sticks.
Note:
If only one paper clip is used, the bottle cap will not hold its position each time the catapult
is fired.
9 Glue a plastic bottle cap to the paper clips. Keep adding layers of glue until
the paper clips are completely encased in glue.
10 Create the torsion spring. Cut a 44" (112 cm) piece of cotton string. Tie the
ends together.
11 Wrap the string around your hand or something else that’s about 4" (10 cm)
wide. You should be able to wrap it five times. Set the looped string aside.
12 Cut the bamboo skewer into two 13/8" (3.5 cm) pieces and two 1" (2.5 cm)
pieces.
13 Use a piece of skewer to push the looped string through the 1/4" (6 mm)
holes.
14 Straighten the string as much as you can. Insert a 13/8" (3.5 cm) skewer
through all of the looped ends of the string. These will be the winding pegs.
Count to make sure all five strands of string are wrapped around each peg.
15 Install the throwing arm.
Insert the throwing arm into the middle of the string bundle. Leave about 1/4" (6
mm) poking out the other side of the string.
16 Begin turning the winding pegs to tighten the torsion bundle. Tighten each
side evenly.
17 Wind until the throwing arm is pressed firmly against the uprights. Insert
the 1" (2.5 cm) holding pegs into the 1/8" (3 mm) holes to prevent the winding
pegs from unwinding. You’ll add more power later.
Cut a paper clip, as shown, or bend it back-and-forth until it separates. One
section is oval, the other is shaped like a staple.
19 Glue and tape the oval section to the back-center of the base.
20 Bend the tip of a second paper clip, as shown.

21 Pull the throwing arm back until it touches the section of paper clip that’s
attached to the base. Mark that spot with a pencil.
22 Glue and tape the second paper clip onto the throwing arm. The pencil mark
lines up with the bend in the paper clip.
23 Use the staple-shaped section of paper clip for the firing pin. Straighten it
out, and then bend a small handle at one end.
24 Test the trigger.
Pull the throwing arm back until the paper clips line up. Insert the pin to hold the
throwing arm in place.
Note:
The position of the paper clips is important. The paper clip on the throwing arm must be in
front of the other one. It’s also helpful if the tip of the firing pin is pressed against the
underside of the throwing arm, as shown.
Crank up the power in the torsion bundle as much as you can by removing the
holding pegs and turning the winding pegs further. Remember to add tension
evenly to each side. If it feels like there’s so much tension that it might explode
at any moment, then you’re doing it right! Reinsert the holding pegs. Pull back
the throwing arm and set the trigger. Load your projectile of choice (small,
dense, and nondangerous objects, such as pencil erasers, work best). Take aim
and pull the firing pin to shoot!
Note:
It’s easier to do this step with a buddy. Have one person turn the winding pegs while the
other person inserts the holding peg.
26 Adjust your trajectory.
The paper clips that connect the bottle cap to the throwing arm can be bent to
adjust the angle at which your projectile is fired. If the bottle cap is facing
straight forward, your projectile will also shoot forward in a straight line. If you
angle the bottle cap upward, you’ll fire in a high-flying arc. Experiment to find
the best angle for your mini-siege needs!
Pro Tip: Long Live Your Catapult

Give your catapult a long life by letting the torsion bundle relax and unwind when you’re not
Give your catapult a long life by letting the torsion bundle relax and unwind when you’re not
using it to cause mini-mayhem. You don’t need to completely unwind the string, but relax it
enough so that the throwing arm is pressed gently against the uprights. If you keep the torsion
bundle under tension, the string will deteriorate faster, and your winding pegs may also
weaken or break.
DA VINCI CATAPULT
The Da Vinci catapult, named after the famous polymath, employs two curved
bows to power the catapult. But unlike a bow and arrow, the string on these
bows is wound around a rotating drum. When spun, the drum pulls on the strings
and bends the dual bows, storing energy inside the bending material!
This design also features an extra-long throwing arm and an adjustable basket,
which give you the power to achieve some far-flung shots!
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
• 18 regular 1/2" × 41/2" (1.3 × 11.4 cm) craft sticks
• hot glue and extra glue stick
• one 1" × 12" (2.5 × 30 cm) wooden paint stirrer
• utility knife
• utility knife
• drill and 1/8" (3 mm) drill bit
• wine cork
• 1/8" (3 mm) skewer or dowel
• cotton string
• paper clip
• masking tape
• plastic bottle cap
Wood paint stirrer: You can build the base entirely out of craft sticks, but make sure it’s 2" (5
cm) wide.
1 Bend the craft sticks.
Soak twelve craft sticks in warm, soapy water for at least 60 minutes. The soap
in the water helps break the water tension, which will allow it to soak into the
wood more easily. You will need only four bent sticks per catapult, but many
will break during the bending process, so it’s good to have extras.
2 Carefully bend the craft sticks into a C-shape and insert them into a straight-
walled container that has an inner diameter of about 21/2" (6.4 cm). Mugs are
often about this size. Let the sticks dry out completely overnight inside the
mugs.
3 Select four sticks that are unbroken and have an evenly curved shape. Hot
glue them into pairs, as shown.
4 Create the catapult base.
Use a utility knife to score two 4" (10 cm) sections of a paint stirrer, then snap
off the pieces. Glue two craft sticks to the undersides of the paint stirrer pieces,
as shown.
5 Create the supports.
Use a utility knife to score and snap one craft stick at a roughly 45-degree angle,
and about 21/4" (5.7 cm) long. The precise angle and length of the cut isn’t
crucial, but it is important that all four sticks have the same angle and length. To
ensure that, use the first cut piece of craft stick as a template. Lay it atop another
craft stick, and use the utility knife to make another score line. Repeat two more
times until you have four identical pieces, as shown.
6 Cut a mini glue stick into four 1/2" (1.3 cm) pieces.
7 Carefully glue the craft sticks into triangle shapes near the edges of the base.
It’s important that the tops of the triangles are the same height and perfectly
aligned with each other.
8 Use liberal amounts of hot glue to affix the pieces of glue stick into the
corners between the supports and the base. These will help prevent the supports
from wobbling.
9 Create the winding drum.
Carefully drill a hole through the top of each of the supports. Hold a scrap of
paint stirrer behind the support as you drill to protect your fingers.
10 Carefully drill a hole through the center of the cork. As you drill, look at the
drill bit from several different angles to make sure that it’s going in straight.
Work slowly and diligently to ensure that the drill bit exits the cork through the
center.
11 Thread the dowel through the supports and cork, as shown. Apply a small
amount of hot glue on the ends to prevent the dowel from sliding out.
12 Create the power source.
Glue the pairs of bent craft sticks onto the base, as shown. Note that they are
intentionally positioned off center.
Attaching the string is the trickiest part, and it’s the most important step to ensure that your
catapult has maximum firing power. Read these steps very carefully.
13 Cut two 8" (20.3 cm) pieces of cotton string. Glue about 11/2" (4 cm) of
each string onto the top of each of the bent craft sticks. Wait for it to dry
completely.
14 Wrap one string completely around the cork and pull it taut. While using
one hand to hold the taut string in place, smear hot glue onto as much of the
exposed string as possible, being careful not to get the glue gun too close to your
string-holding hand. Patiently continue to hold the string tight while the glue
dries, then let go of the string and smear more glue onto the part that was
previously covered by your hand.
15 Repeat with the other string, and remember to wrap it the opposite way
around the cork. While gluing on the second string, it’s very important that first
string remains tight. If the first string goes slack while you’re attaching the
second one, then the catapult won’t be as powerful.
The photo displays the correct final result: The strings are wrapped in opposite
directions, and both have equal tension.
Each string is attached a little differently. Note that one string begins wrapping over the cork,
and the other begins wrapping under the cork. It doesn’t matter which one is which, but it’s
very important that they wrap around the cork in opposite directions. Keep this in mind for
the following steps.
16 Create the throwing arm. Rotate the cork so both strings are taut. Firmly
pinch one side of the cork to hold it steady, and very carefully insert the tip of
the utility cutter with the blade facing away from your hand. Gently wiggle the
blade into the cork until you feel the dowel.
Do not try to push the blade in with excessive force. Work slowly and in a controlled manner,
allowing the weight of the utility cutter to ease the blade into the cork. This step cannot be
completed earlier because the incision needs to be made at the top of the cork, and that
position is difficult to predict until the strings have been attached.
17 Apply a glob of hot glue over the incision. While it’s hot, quickly and fully
insert a sturdy craft stick. This technique will force the melted glue into the
incision with the craft stick, which will firmly bond it to the cork.
18 Glue and tape about half of a paper clip onto the end of the throwing arm.
Glue the other half of the paper clip to the back of a plastic bottle cap. Keep
adding layers of glue until the paper clip is completely encased.
The paper clip will allow you to adjust the angle of the bottle cap, which will
give you greater control over the trajectory.
19 Load, aim, and fire!
Use one hand to pull back the throwing arm slightly, then load your projectile of
choice. As always, small and dense objects (such as a pencil eraser) work best.
Use your index finger to pull the throwing arm all the way back while the other
hand holds down the front of the catapult. Note how much the craft sticks bend!
Release all the energy at once by allowing your finger to quickly slip off the side of the
throwing arm!
BALLISTA
Like the onager, the ballista utilizes torsion power, but with a twist: Two
separate torsion springs, turned sideways, work together to hurl mini bolts—
perfect for cardboard target practice! The key to a successful mini ballista is
creating durable torsion bundles that can be tightly wound without breaking.
Cotton string is too thick and frays too easily at such a tiny scale, so you’ll be
using a clever alternative: dental floss!
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
• nine regular 41/2" × 1/2" (11.4 × 1.3 cm) craft sticks
• hot glue
• pliers
• drill with 1/8" and 1/16" bits (30 mm and 15 mm)
• waxed dental floss
• 1/8" (3 mm) bamboo skewers
• small paper clips
• utility knife
• small 3/4" (1.9 cm) binder clip
• masking tape
• scissors
1 Build the frame.
Hot glue the edges of two pairs of craft sticks together, as shown.
2 Overlap the glued pairs of sticks by about 2" (5 cm). The bottom pair of
sticks will be the front end of the ballista.
3 Glue a single stick onto the underside of the front of the frame.
4 Use a pair of pliers to snap off sixteen pieces of craft sticks, about 3/8" (1 cm)
square.
5 Glue the square pieces to the frame in stacks of four and then glue another
stick on top. If you have a more convenient material than bits of craft sticks,
such as corks or wooden cubes, use those.
6 Create the torsion bundle and throwing arms.
Drill two 1/8" (3.2 mm) holes, and four 1/16" (1.6 mm), as shown. Be sure all the
holes are space about 1/4" (6.4 mm) apart.
7 Cut a scrap of cardboard to about 1" (2.5 cm) wide. Wrap the waxed dental
floss around it nine or ten times. Tie the ends together and remove the floss from
the cardboard. Repeat to create a second loop.
8 Straighten and cut a paper clip into two 11/4" (3.2 cm) pieces, and cut one of
the bamboo skewers into four 1" (2.5 cm) and two 31/2" (9 cm) pieces.
9 Select one of the loops of floss. Pinch it at one end, and insert it into one set
of the 1/8" (3.2 mm) holes. Once through the holes, separate the strands, as
shown.
10 Insert the 31/2" (9 cm) and two of the 1" (2.5 cm) pieces of skewer between
the strands of floss, as shown. The 31/2" (9 cm) skewer is the throwing arm and
the two 1" (2.5 cm) skewers are now the pegs that will wind up the torsion
spring. Repeat steps 9 and 10 on the other side.
11 Rotate the 1" (2.5 cm) winding pegs to make the 31/2" (9 cm) throwing arm
press into the front of the ballista. In this example, the pegs are wound
counterclockwise. Make sure to rotate each one evenly. When the throwing arm
is pressed firmly against the frame, insert one of the paper clip pieces into the
appropriate hole to prevent it from unwinding. For now, don’t wind it too much
—you’ll increase the tension later.
12 String the ballista.
Carefully split the tip of each throwing arm with the utility knife.
13 Slip an 11" (28 cm) piece of floss into the split, with at least 11/2" (4 cm)
hanging from one side. Wrap and tie the short end of the floss tightly around the
tip of the throwing arm to hold it in place and prevent the throwing arm from
splitting further.
14 Repeat on the other side. Cut off the excess floss. Apply a dab of hot glue
onto the wrapped floss to prevent it from unwinding.
15 Create the trigger and bipod.
Finish the ballista by hot gluing a binder clip onto the back of the frame. Cut a
craft stick in half at about a 45-degree angle, and glue the pieces to the front of
the ballista as shown. Make sure the ends of the pieces do not protrude in front
of the center gap.
1 Create the bolts.

Cut the other skewer to 7" (17.8 cm), then carefully fold a 1" (2.5 cm) piece of
tape over the blunt end of the skewer, leaving about 1/4" (6.4 mm) exposed at the
very end.
2 Trim the fins into a tapered shape that protrudes no more than 1/4" (6.4 mm)
from the skewer. The fins must be able to fit easily through the front gap of the
ballista frame.
3 Straighten a small paper clip, then wrap it tightly around the tip of the
skewer. This creates a leading weight (see here).
4 Use the tip of the utility knife to carefully carve out a small nock at the back
of the skewer. Make sure the gap in the nock is aligned with the fins, as shown.
1 Get ready to fire.
Add tension to the winding pegs. Remove the paper clips and rotate the winding
pegs evenly to slowly increase the tension. The bundled dental floss is extremely
strong, so don’t be afraid to really crank it up. (The winding pegs will break
before the floss does!) Be sure to rotate the top and bottom winding pegs evenly,
and check that the tension is even for both throwing arms. If one arm is more
powerful than the other, your shot won’t be accurate.
2 Load and fire! Insert the bolt through the front of the ballista. Position the
nock on the string. With your other hand, hold the back of the bolt in place. This
frees the first hand to switch positions.
3 Pinch the bolt near the fins and open the trigger. Push the bolt into the
trigger.
4 Center the bolt, aim, and press the trigger to fire!
Pro Tip: Take Out the Tension

Taking out the tension will improve the longevity of your ballista. When finished firing, unwind
the winding pegs one full rotation before storing it for next time.
4
CURIOUS CONTRAPTIONS
ROLLER-AMPLIFIED MANY-THING SHOOTER
To fully harness the energy of a 7" (18 cm) rubber band, you’d need to stretch it
out more than 24" (61 cm), which is quite unwieldy for a DIY sidearm! The
roller-amplified shooter solves this by stretching the rubber band from the back
of the frame, to the front, and then to the back again. Additionally, a small roller
at the front of the frame allows the rubber band to be stretched evenly, ensuring
that each shot achieves maximum power!
TOOLS AND MATERIALS

• three 12" × 1" (30.5 × 2.5 cm) wooden paint stirrers
• utility knife
• sandpaper (optional)
• drill with 1/4" (6 mm) bit
• hot glue
• ballpoint pen casing
• 1/4" (6 mm)-thick wooden dowel
• 7" × 1/8" (18 cm × 3 mm), size #117B rubber band
• wooden clothespin
• three wine corks
• craft foam, card stock, or cardboard
• another, smaller rubber band (optional)
Wine corks: Find another sturdy material for the handle, such as a piece of wood. Instead of
cutting corks for projectiles, use pencil erasers or other dense, but soft, objects
MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS
The inner diameter of the ballpoint pen casing must be greater than the width of your dowel.
If it’s not, find another material that can act as a durable cylinder, such as a marker.
1 Build the frame.
Use a utility knife to score across the middle of a paint stirrer, then break it in
half. Use sandpaper to clean up the edges, if desired.
2 Stack the remaining paint stirrers. Drill three 1/4" (6 mm) holes through both
paint stirrers: one hole near each end and one in the middle. Allow the weight of
the drill to do the work: If you push down too hard, the paint stirrer may split.
3 Assemble the frame with hot glue as shown, with the holes as perfectly
aligned as possible.
4 Attach the rubber band and roller.

Disassemble a ballpoint pen, then use your cutting tool to cut off a 3/4" (1.9 cm)
piece of the case. It’s important that the case be shorter than the width between
the sides of the frame.
5 Cut the dowel into three 1" (2.5 cm) pieces.
6 Insert the dowel through the holes, as shown. Slip the rubber band around the
dowel before pushing it all the way through. This holds the rubber band firmly in
place when being stretched for firing.
7 Insert another dowel piece through the holes in the middle of the frame.
Again, slip the same rubber band around the dowel before pushing it all the way
through. This will prevent the rubber band from getting stuck inside the frame
after each shot.
8 Thread the last dowel piece through one of the holes on the open end of the
frame, through the piece of pen casing, and into the other hole. Check to make
sure the casing can roll on the dowel without excessive friction. This is the roller
that will allow the rubber band to stretch out evenly while being stretched for
firing.
9 Create the trigger by gluing a clothespin to the back of the frame, as shown.
10 Test the trigger by loading the rubber band as shown. If your clothespin
isn’t strong enough to hold the rubber band, wrap another, smaller rubber band
around it, as shown below, to increase its grip.
11 Create the handle and finger guard. Glue two corks end to end at the back of
the frame. Glue on a 6" × 1" (15 × 2.5 cm) strip of crafting foam, as shown. The
foam prevents the rubber band from slapping your fingers as it rapidly retracts!
(It also contributes to the shooter’s aesthetics.)
12 Create durable and safe projectiles by cutting the last wine cork into
quarters. If you don’t have wine corks, find something that’s similar in size. The
projectiles work best if they can fit snugly between the sides of the rubber band.
13 Prepare your shot.
Pull the rubber band under the roller at the front of the frame. Use two fingers to
spread the rubber band and your other hand to open the clothespin. Push the
rubber band as far into the clothespin as possible. (The clothespin’s mechanical
advantage is greatest near the hinge; The tip of the clothespin may not be strong
enough to hold in the rubber band.)
14 Set up your projectile directly in front of the clothespin. Take careful aim
and fire!
Get Tinkering
This is just an example of a roller-amplified shooter. You can increase the power by making
the frame longer, or experiment with different projectiles to find the best one. Build an
ammo-storage compartment on the side! Or get really inventive by modifying the trigger so it’s
activated by your index finger instead of your thumb. This project is easy to redesign.
DESK DRAWER BOOBY TRAP
Finally—a way to put office supplies to good use! Picture this: You’re at the
office, and there’s someone who deserves a surprise prank. But you don’t have
any craft materials or fancy tools like glue guns at hand to help you pull it off.
Fortunately, this desk-drawer booby trap is built using only common office
supplies! When it’s sprung, it releases a volley of paper clips! Best of all, this
trap is specifically designed to remain armed for several days, so set it up
anytime, and wait for the fun.
TOOLS AND MATERIALS

• masking tape
• 1" (2.5 cm)-wide binder clip
• ruler
• two pencils with eraser ends
• plastic spoon
• plastic spoon
• two 31/2" × 1/8" (9 cm × 3 mm) size #33 rubber bands
• small handful of paper clips
• thumbtack
• string
Wooden measuring stick: Any flat and strong object, such as a paint stirrer
#2 pencils: Disposable wooden chopsticks or any other rigid, flat stick
1 Create the catapult.
Cut a 4" to 5" (10 to 13 cm) piece of tape and crease it in half, lengthwise,
sticky-side out. Open the binder clip and place the piece of tape inside.
2 Position the binder clip about 11/2" (4 cm) from the end of the ruler. Wrap
the tape around the ruler to secure the clip into place. Open the binder clip
handles. This will be the catapult’s fulcrum.
3 Tape the two pencils together. Position the pencils over the binder clip so
that the eraser ends line up with the end of the ruler. Tape the pencils to the
inward-facing binder clip handle. Use tape to attach the plastic spoon to the other
end of the pencils in two places.
4 Wrap both rubber bands around the end of the ruler and the eraser-end of the
pencils. Two or three wraps is sufficient.
Modify three paper clips, as shown. The blue one has about 3/8" (1 cm) of one
end bent upward at a 90-degree angle.
6 Use several layers of tape to attach the bent blue paper clip to the underside
of the pencils, as shown. Tightly wrap the tape as you apply it. Layering the tape
and wrapping it tightly will ensure that this part of the trigger does not come
loose when the trap is armed over a long period of time.
7 Bend the straightened yellow paper clip into a house-like shape. Make sure
the “roof” is peaked. This will make it easier to arm the trap in the next steps.
8 Bend the yellow paper clip around the ruler, just behind the blue paper clip.
Wrap the ends of the yellow paper clip around the underside of the ruler and
firmly attach it in place with a piece of tape.
9 Tie the ends of a 10" (25 cm) piece of string to the red paper clip and the
thumbtack as shown. Double knot to make sure they can’t come loose.
10 Test the trigger.

Pull the catapult all the way down, and insert the red trigger pin through the
yellow and blue paper clips. Make sure it stays put. Give the string a tug to
release!
1 Arm the trap.

Set the fulcrum-end of the catapult against the very front of the drawer. Apply
tape across the ruler in two places, then apply four more pieces of tape, as
shown, covering the ends of the first two pieces. This taping technique will
firmly secure the ruler to the bottom of the drawer.
2 Set up the catapult trigger.
Push in the drawer as far as is possible while making sure the catapult arm
doesn’t hit the top of the drawer.
While holding the drawer open in that position, pull the string taut and firmly
push the thumbtack into the underside of the drawer.*
3 Give it a test: Close the drawer completely, then open it with a normal
amount of force. As the drawer opens it should pull the trigger pin free, releasing
the catapult!
Load the spoon with some paper clips or other small objects. Be sure to use
many small (and harmless) projectiles for a maximum chance of hitting your
target. Refill the drawer with its usual contents, close it, and wait for your victim
to reach for the stapler.
*Can’t use a thumbtack? A thumbtack won’t work if the drawer is made of metal. Use this taping technique
to attach the string to the underside of the drawer.
1 Apply two layers of tape to the string to affix it to the underside of the
drawer. Leave about 1" (2.5 cm) of string poking out one side.
2 Fold the string over, and apply a second piece of tape. This will prevent the
string from slipping.
3 Apply two more pieces of tape on each side, as shown.
POKER CHIP SHOOTER
The vision: A clever contraption that can fire off mini frisbees, one at a time,
with a high degree of accuracy, consistency, and at a distance of at least 15' (4.5
m).
The result: The Poker Chip Shooter! Though this project requires an extra degree
of precision in its construction, it’s 100 percent worth it to experience the
gratifying action of rapid-firing poker chips one after another!
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
• four 12" (30.5 cm) paint stirrers that are at least 21/4" (5.7 cm) wide
• utility knife, or other tool for cutting craft sticks, paint stirrers, and corks
• ten 41/2" (11.4 cm)-long craft sticks
• hot glue gun
• two 12" (30.5 cm)-long, 1/4" (6.4 mm)-wide wooden dowels
• standard-size, clay composite poker chips*
• 4" (10.2 cm) toilet paper tube
• duct tape
• 3 synthetic wine corks
• four 31/2" × 1/8" (9 cm × 3 mm) rubber bands
*I recommend that you use 11.5-gram clay composite chips. The thin, plastic chips and the
heavyweight 14+ gram chips will not shoot as far.
This project requires precision.

This project works by carefully depositing one poker chip at a time in front of the firing
mechanism. It’s essential that the path of the poker chip is sized correctly and is free of even
the smallest obstructions. Follow these directions carefully or you may end up with a fancy
poker chip storage container rather than a sharpshooting contraption!
Paint stirrers: Use balsa or another thin, easily workable wood. It must be rigid and flat.
Synthetic corks: You can use regular corks, but they are slightly more prone to breaking. You
can also use any other comfortable material for the handle, and rubber cabinet bumpers or
another resilient material for step 12.
Poker chips: You can modify this project to work with other disk-shaped materials, such as
checker pieces, backgammon pieces, or plastic pog slammers. (Anyone remember those?) If
you do, you’ll need to modify the dimensions of your shooter and ammo container to
accommodate the size of your ammunition.
1 Build the foundation.
Line up two paint stirrers side by side and glue a craft stick onto one end, as
shown. Cut four craft sticks in half. Glue three of the halves onto the paint
stirrers, evenly spaced, as shown. (You’ll use the other craftstick halves later).
2 Flip the foundation over. Hot-glue a dowel along each side, as shown. Make
sure the dowels are perfectly parallel to each other and that a poker chip can
slide easily between them. Make sure there’s no excess hot glue that might
interfere with the poker chip’s ability to slide. There should be only 1/16" to 1/8"
(1.5 to 3 mm) of space between the chip and the sides at any given point.
3 Build the top of the firing slot. Cut a paint stirrer in half, crosswise. Place the
pieces side by side, as shown, and hot glue two of the craftstick halves at the
ends to connect them.
4 Line up the firing slot top along one end of the foundation. Apply several
dots of glue along the dowels along the length of the top piece. Carefully attach
the top to the foundation. Again, make sure that a poker chip can easily slide
through the firing slot without getting caught on any excess hot glue.
5 Glue three more craftstick halves across the top of the dowels, as shown.
These extra sticks will help keep the firing mechanism aligned with the firing
slot. Make sure that the toilet paper tube (ammo container) fits snugly in the spot
behind the firing slot.
6 Glue two craft sticks on edge, as shown. These will help support the ammo
container.
7 Make the ammo container.
Wrap the toilet paper tube with duct tape to increase its durability. Make sure the
tape does not extend beyond the edges of the tube or it may interfere with the
firing mechanism.
8 Line up two poker chips behind the firing slot, as shown. This will ensure
that the ammo container is positioned above the foundation with just enough
space to allow only one poker chip at a time to be released.
9 Rest the ammo container gently on the poker chips. Squeeze the tube to
create a gap between it and the craft sticks that were added in step 6. Apply a
glob of hot glue and then release the tube. Repeat on the other side.
10 Glue two more craft sticks upright, on either side of the ammo container, as
shown, to further secure its position.
11 Build the firing mechanism.

Start by gluing two craftstick halves onto the end of a paint stirrer. Insert the
paint stirrer through the firing slot, as shown. Cut two 1/4" (65 mm)-thick disks
of cork and glue them onto the ends of the dowels and abutting surfaces. The
cork bumpers will absorb some of the impact on the firing mechanism.
12 Flip the shooter over. Wrap two pairs of rubber bands in an X configuration
around the whole craft stick and then around the craftstick halves and the end of
the firing mechanism. Turn the shooter right side up.
13 Add the handle.
Center and glue two corks under the firing slot of the shooter, as shown. Use
plenty of glue. Wait for it to dry completely before testing it.
Fill the ammo container with poker chips, making sure that they stack flat. Grasp
the handle in one hand and pinch the back of the firing mechanism with the
other.
15 Take careful note of this next step: Pull back the firing mechanism until it’s
just behind the ammo container and not any farther! A single poker chip should
fall into position under the ammo container. Release the firing mechanism and
watch a poker chip fly at high velocity!
TROUBLESHOOTING
The firing mechanism may get caught on the edge of the ammo container. To solve this, while
pinching the back of the firing mechanism, pull back and upward just a tiny bit. With a
modicum of practice, you’ll quickly get a feel for when the firing mechanism is positioned
correctly, and you’ll be shooting off poker chips lickety-split!
SLIDE-ACTION RUBBER BAND GUN
Sure, it’s satisfying to shoot off a rubber band with the snap of a clothespin
release. But it’s way more fun to fire off a burst of five rubber bands at once
with a quick slide-action pull on the trigger! This project is relatively simple to
build and powerful enough to knock over a pyramid of plastic cups from 7' (2 m)
away!
TOOLS AND MATERIALS

• 13 regular 41/2" × 3/8" (11.4 × 1 cm) craft sticks
• pliers
• two 1" × 12" (2.5 × 30.5 cm) wooden paint stirrers
• hot glue
• protractor (optional)
• 31/2" × 1/8" (9 cm × 3 mm) size #33 rubber bands
1 Use the pliers to break off five 1" (2.5 cm) pieces and two 3/4" (1.9 cm)
pieces from the ends of craft sticks. (Use the same craftstick breaking technique
as shown shown here)
2 Create the loading notches.

Glue the 1" (2.5 cm) pieces of the craft sticks onto one side of a paint stirrer, as
shown. The craftstick pieces are spaced about 3/16" (5 mm) apart and protrude
above the top edge of the stirrer by exactly 1/4" (6 mm). It’s important that the
rounded ends of the loading notches are positioned, as shown. If they protrude
too much or too little, the rubber bands won’t load and release easily. Glue on
two full craft sticks, as shown, to start the handle.
3 Flip the piece over. Center and glue a craft stick onto the handle. Use a
second paint stirrer to determine the space between craft stick and the first paint
stirrer. This will help guide the slide-action trigger and prevent it from rubbing
against your hand.
Glue one of the 3/4" (1.9 cm) pieces of craft stick onto the bottom of the handle.
Note: Measurements May Vary

The paint stirrers used in this example are 1/8" (3 mm) thick. If yours are thinner, even by
1/16" (1.5 mm), then you may need to layer two craft sticks together in step 3 to create a
thicker handle that can accommodate the additional thickness of the paint stirrers.
4 Create the slide-action trigger.
First, make sure there is no extra glue spilling onto the area where the trigger
will go. If there is, scrape it off, otherwise it will make the trigger difficult to
operate.
Position a second paint stirrer as shown, but do not glue it down. Make sure it
can slide easily between the first paint stirrer and the craft stick.
Use a protractor to mark a 35-degree angle from the bottom-left corner of the
paint stirrer, then glue a craft stick along that line. Glue the stick only to the
lower paint stirrer. This stick will lift and release the rubber bands as the trigger
slides.
If you don’t have a protractor, then glue the craft stick at an angle so that one
end protrudes about 1/8" to 3/16" (3 to 5 mm) above the loading notches.
5 Complete the handle.
Temporarily remove the trigger, and apply glue in three places, as shown. Make
sure you don’t use excessive glue that might interfere with the trigger
movement. Glue on two more craft sticks, as shown. Once the glue has dried,
reinsert the trigger. It should slide easily through the handle.
6 Create another handle in front of the slide-action trigger. Use four craft
sticks: two glued to one side, two glued to the other side. Connect them at the
bottom with the remaining 3/4" (1.9 cm) piece of craft stick. Make sure these are
glued only to the slide-action trigger and not the first piece.
Note: Measurements May Vary

Many paint stirrers are about 1" (2.5 cm) wide, however, if yours are wider or narrower, then
the angle of the trigger will be different than 35 degrees. The key is to ensure that it’s
protruding above the loading notches at a shallow angle. Adjust your creation accordingly.
7 Create slide-stops.
This step will prevent the slide-action trigger from extending too far forward or
backward. This has no impact on the performance, but it does make it more
satisfying to operate.
Snap off two more 3/4" (1.9 cm) pieces of craft stick. With the trigger positioned,
as shown, glue one piece onto the trigger right behind the handle. Glue the other
about 4" (10.2 cm) in front of the handle.
The trigger should be able to be withdrawn, as shown, but stopped by the piece
of craft stick. This creates a snappy clack sound whenever you fire or reset the
trigger!
8 Load and fire!
Load the rubber bands from back to front. If you load the front ones first, the
gun will jam. Stretch the rubber band from the upper-front tip of the gun onto the
backmost loading notch. Repeat until five rubber bands have been loaded from
back to front.
To fire: For a single and powerful blast, rapidly pull the slide-action trigger to
release all five at once! For smaller bursts, pull the trigger slowly and
deliberately.
TROUBLESHOOTING
If the rubber bands aren’t releasing, make sure the loading notches aren’t protruding too high,
and make sure that the end of the trigger stick is at least 3/16" (5 mm) above the loading
notches.
If the slide-action trigger is hard to pull, you may need to disassemble the handle and look for
loose bits of hot glue that may be creating excessive friction.
Design Variables
Here are a few quick ideas to customize your rubber band blaster:
• Add more than five loading notches
• Space the loading notches more than 1/4" (6 mm). This makes it easier to fire one shot at a
time
• Make it longer! Stretch out the rubber bands more to get more firepower!
5
FIREARMS
BBQ BLASTER
Transform a BBQ lighter, pill bottle, and pen into a mini combustion-based
blaster! The fuel and spark from the BBQ lighter is reconfigured to produce a
tiny explosion. The resulting expanding gas shoots anything that’s inside the
barrel at high speeds! This tiny firearm can fire a pen nib more than 20' (6 m),
and it’s easy to adapt it to shoot copper BBs or anything else that’s less than 1/4"
(6 mm) wide.
TOOLS AND MATERIALS

• cheap ballpoint pen that can be disassembled
• wire cutters
• drill with 3/8" bit and 1/16" bit (1 cm and 1.6 mm)
• paper clip
• small medicine bottle with screw-on cap
• hot glue
• cheap BBQ lighter
• cable tie
• weak ferrous magnet and copper BBs (optional)
Medicine bottle: You can use any small, nonglass container with a screw-on cap, but make
sure it’s fairly small. Larger containers will require more time and fuel per shot. If possible,
use a container that’s transparent. It’s quite gratifying to see the small explosion inside the
combustion chamber!
1 Create the barrel.
Disassemble the pen, including the writing nib—you may need to wipe up some
ink. Check that the nib can fit inside the pen casing (a.k.a. the blaster barrel).
2 Use the wire cutters to chop off the closed end of the barrel.
3 Cut a paper clip in half. Drill two 1/16" (1.6 mm) holes into one end of the
barrel, and thread the paper clip through. Bend the paper clip ends around the
barrel. This will prevent your projectile from falling through.
4 Drill a 3/8" (1 cm) hole into the center of the medicine bottle cap and insert
the barrel, as shown. Make sure the paper clip side is on the inside of the cap.
Apply liberal amounts of hot glue on both sides of the hole to ensure a strong
seal.
5 Modify the lighter.
Carefully open the BBQ lighter (cheaper designs tend to be easier to pull apart).
Remove the lighter stem and expose the ignition wires and fuel line. Keep
everything else in place (the trigger, fuel reserve, and ignition mechanism should
remain in their original positions).
6 Many BBQ lighters have wires of different lengths. Modify the wires so
they’re each about the same length by cutting a piece of wire from the longer
one and twisting it together with the shorter wire. You can strip the wire by
carefully pinching the insulation with the wire cutters and pulling the wire
through, as shown.
7 Tuck the wires into the lighter casing. If the casing is made of metal, cover
any exposed wire with tape.
8 Test your wiring.
Position the ends of the wires so they’re about 1/4" (6.4 mm) apart. Click the
trigger. You should see a small white spark appear. If not, try moving the wires
slightly closer together or slightly farther apart. If it’s still not working, check
that the wires are connected to the ignition mechanism in the position you found
them. If you had to cut the wire in step 6, check that your wire connections are
tightly twisted together. Make sure that no metal is touching the exposed wire.
9 Reassemble the lighter with the wires and fuel line coming through the hole
left by the lighter stem you removed. Use hot glue, if necessary.
10 Attach the combustion chamber (medicine bottle). Apply liberal amounts of
hot glue to the lighter, and adhere the back half of the combustion chamber to it,
as shown. Hot glue does not adhere very well to some plastics, so you may need
to supplement the bond by strapping the combustion chamber to the lighter with
a cable tie.
11 Install the ignition and fuel line.
Drill two 1/16" (1.6 mm) holes in the back of the combustion chamber on either
side of the lighter. Insert one wire into each hole, and position the exposed metal
ends about 1/4" (6.4 mm) apart.
12 Test the ignition by clicking the trigger. You should see a small white spark
appear between the two wires. If not, move the wires slightly closer together or
slightly farther apart. When you’ve found a reliable position, apply hot glue on
the outside of the wire holes to keep the wires in place.
13 Drill a final 1/16" (1.6 mm) hole in the front of the combustion chamber,
and insert the tip of the fuel line. If it’s a snug fit, don’t apply hot glue or you
may melt the plastic tubing. If it’s loose, apply a small bead of hot glue next to
the fuel line, wait a few seconds, and then smear the glue around the tubing with
a scrap of cardboard.
Why is the ignition in back and the fuel in front?

Combustion occurs only when the right mixture of oxygen and fuel meets a spark. If the fuel
line is too close to the ignition, it will smother all the surrounding oxygen, and combustion
won’t occur. Additionally, positioning the ignition in the back of the medicine bottle ensures
that the combustion starts there, and rapidly expands toward the barrel, resulting in a much
more effective explosion.
14 Load and fire!
Drop the pen nib into the barrel. Make sure the metal tip of the nib is facing
outward. Carefully take aim.
15 Begin filling the combustion chamber with fuel by squeezing the trigger
slightly (Most BBQ lighters begin releasing fuel when the trigger is pulled part
way). After 1 or 2 seconds, click the trigger repeatedly. You’ll see a burst of
light fill the chamber, hear an airy POP, and see the pen nib zip through the air!
Safety First
Despite its small size, the BBQ Blaster can fire the pen nib with surprising speed. Take aim
at cardboard or other absorbent surfaces. Do not fire at walls or other hard surfaces or the pen
nib may ricochet back at you!
Always wear safety goggles while firing.
Reset
After each shot, unscrew the combustion chamber and blow some air inside to clear out the
fumes. Combustion needs plenty of oxygen, so it won’t work unless you clear out the fumes
and introduce fresh O2.
You may be tempted to try filling the blaster with fuel for more than two seconds to get a
more powerful shot… sorry to tell you, this probably won’t work! Remember that combustion
needs oxygen. If you fill the entire combustion chamber with fuel, there won’t be enough
oxygen for ignition to occur.
Optional: Make It a BB Blaster

If you can’t find a pen with the right-size nib, or if you want to have a bountiful
supply of alternate ammo, you can modify the blaster to shoot BBs! Simply hot
glue a weak ferrite magnet onto the underside of the barrel, as shown. The
magnet will prevent the BB from rolling out, but it should be weak enough not to
hinder the blaster’s performance. This also allows you to store extra ammo on
the outside of the magnet!
Drop a copper BB into the barrel and fire as usual.
PINGPONG BALL MORTAR
Of all the projects in this book, the PingPong Ball Mortar may have the best
time-and-effort-to-gratification ratio. The construction is straightforward, and
the fireball-like combustion reaction can fire a pingpong ball more than 40' (12
m)—remarkably far for such a lightweight object! You’ll get tons of explosive
excitement without needing to worry about accidentally dropping a bombshell
on your car!
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
• 4 paper towel tubes
• utility knife (or other tool to cut cardboard & plastic)
• plastic bottle with screw-on cap, and diameter of 2" (5 cm) or less
• duct tape (2 colors optional)
• drill with 3/8" (1 cm) bit
• pingpong ball
• aerosol hair spray
• BBQ lighter
Paper towel tubes: If you don’t have four on hand, you can get by with two. Use strips of
cardboard or another material for the bipod that holds the barrel upright.
1 Make the barrel.
Cut a 2" (5 cm) slit into one of the tubes and fold the edges together slightly.
2 Insert the tube into another one.
3 Carefully cut off the bottom of the plastic bottle.
4 Slip the bottle over one end of the tubes and then cover the whole thing with
long strips of duct tape. (Optional) Wrap the ends in red-colored tape for a
snappy look.
5 Create the bipod.
Apply more long strips of tape along the length of the remaining tubes. The tape
isn’t necessary, but it does add durability and makes the bipod look much better.
6 Pinch one end of each tube and seal it closed with more tape.
7 Tape the pinched end of each tube onto the side of the barrel, about a quarter
of the way down from the end.
The angle at which you attach the bipod legs is up to you. For a higher shot, tape
them in a way that angles the barrel upward. To transform this into a cannon-like
launcher, angle the barrel upward only slightly.
8 Create the ignition site.
Drill a hole into the top of the plastic bottle near the neck. Make sure the hole is
wide enough so that the stem of the BBQ lighter can fit snugly inside.
9 Load and fire!
Drop the ball into the barrel. The ball should stop somewhere in the middle of
the barrel because of the cut-and-folded section created in step 1. If it doesn’t,
see Pro Tips and Troubleshooting.
Position the mortar first. If you take too long to move and aim, the fuel will
evaporate.
10 Unscrew the bottle cap and fill the back half of the barrel with a 1-second
burst of hair spray. Don’t overfill it or it won’t work: There needs to be enough
oxygen for combustion to occur.
11 Quickly screw the cap back on, reposition your shot, and insert the BBQ
lighter. It should fit snugly. If it’s loose, the explosion may partially burst
through the BBQ lighter opening.
Click the ignition and fire! You should hear a satisfyingly loud BANG! and see a
small fireball (and pingpong ball) explode from the barrel!
12 After each shot, unscrew the cap and blow air through the whole barrel.
This clears out the gaseous byproduct from the combustion reaction. If you don’t
clear the barrel, these gasses will prevent another combustion from occurring.
Pro Tip
If the ball falls through the barrel, poke two small holes near the middle, and insert a skewer
or other thin, flame-resistant material through it. The skewer will prevent the ball from
slipping past.
TROUBLESHOOTING
If the mortar isn’t working well, there two things to check for:
First, the paper towel tube may be too big. The pingpong ball should just be able to slide
down the barrel. If there’s an excess of space between the ball and the inside of the barrel,
the explosion will travel around the ball. We want the explosion to remain contained behind
the ball, thus forcing it outward.
You can decrease the size of the barrel’s inner diameter by cutting another paper towel tube
down one side, and inserting it into the barrel. Repeat until the pingpong ball just barely
slides down the barrel.
Second, there might not be the right mixture of fuel (hair spray) and oxygen. If you ignite the
lighter and nothing happens, try this: Quickly remove the lighter, blow a gust of air into the
ignition site, and reinsert the lighter to try again. Introducing a small bit of O2 may be enough
to get the combustion started.
If it still fails, then remove the ball, clear the barrel, and restart the firing process.
SODA BOTTLE BOMBARD
Easily the loudest and most explosive project in the book, the soda bottle
bombard is a force to be reckoned with! Using hair spray as fuel, and a BBQ
lighter for ignition, you’ll be able to fire a soda bottle missile at least 50' (15 m)
in a long, graceful arc. Though relatively quick to build, it requires diligent
construction and extreme safety to be enjoyed.
WARNING!!
This project is EXCEPTIONALLY DANGEROUS! You must use a 1-liter bottle or smaller, and you
must use a bottle that’s designed for carbonated beverages. If you use a larger bottle, the
explosion will be too dangerous. If you use a bottle for noncarbonated beverages, it may
explode. DO NOT use old or damaged bottles. You may use smaller bottles.
Additionally, this project is EXTREMELY LOUD! While testing this, my neighbors thought
someone was firing a gun! Use ear protection, and fire only in areas where you won’t disturb
others.
TOOLS AND MATERIALS

• BBQ lighter
• 4" to 5" (10 to 13 cm) piece of 1/2" PVC pipe (depending on the length of your BBQ lighter)
• hot glue
• scissors
• utility knife
• two 1-liter carbonated beverage bottles
• craft foam
• duct tape
• tennis ball
• ear protection
• safety glasses
• gloves
• aerosol hair spray
Craft foam: You can use index cards or other thick paper. Craft foam is just more durable.
1 Create the bottle mount.
Slip the piece of PVC pipe over the BBQ lighter stem. Use liberal amounts of
glue to seal the gap between the pipe and the lighter stem. Avoid getting any
glue inside the tip of the lighter.
Important note: It’s crucial to use lots of glue. If you don’t, the hot gasses that are created
during combustion will force their way through the gap between the pipe and the lighter stem,
and possibly burn your hands.
2 Use a utility knife to cut a small slit about 2" (5 cm) from the opening of one
of the bottles, then use scissors to cut off the rest. Slip it over the pipe, and again,
use lots of hot glue to hold it in place.
This important piece acts as a blast shield. Without it, the combustion that occurs
will be blasted back toward your hands!
3 Create the missile.
Cut three identical fins out of craft foam, about 21/2" × 11/2" (6.4 × 4 cm) on the
straight sides.
4 Use small pieces of duct tape to carefully attach both sides of each fin to the
second bottle, near the opening. It’s important that the fins are evenly spaced and
attached as straight as possible.
5 Use the utility knife to carefully cut a tennis ball in half. Hot glue it onto the
bottle, as shown.
This does three important things:
First, it adds a weight to the front of the missile, which helps stabilize the flight
(see the note about leading weights).
Second, it makes it safer. The bottom of most bottles is quite rigid, so covering
the bottom with a rubbery cushion reduces the chance of damaging something
upon impact. The added weight also reduces the bottle’s initial velocity, so it
won’t carry quite as much destructive energy when first fired, but it will increase
its overall distance due to adding a leading weight.
Third, the rubbery cushion absorbs the impact upon landing, adding longevity to
your missile.
6 Rip at least twelve 8" × 1" (20 × 2.5 cm) strips of duct tape, and wrap them
over the top of the tennis ball, as shown. This will prevent the tennis ball from
breaking off upon impact (and it makes the missile look way better).
7 Load and fire!
First, put on your safety glasses and ear plugs. For the first launch, you must
wear gloves to protect your hands until you have tested the effectiveness of your
hot gluing.
Fill the missile with a quick 1-second blast of hair spray. Do not overfill the
bottle with hair spray; It won’t work. You need some oxygen for combustion to
occur.
8 Slip the missile onto the launcher. Aim very carefully, and pull the trigger!
You will hear a resounding BANG! as the missile fires with an impressive
amount of force.
9 After each shot, the missile will be filled with gaseous byproducts from the
combustion reaction. You need to remove as much of these gasses as possible or
it won’t work a second time. Repeatedly squeeze the bottle and pop it back into
its original shape to push out the gasses and fill it up with fresh air. You can also
forcefully blow into the bottle a few times.
TROUBLESHOOTING
If the bombard doesn’t fire, the #1 reason will be because it doesn’t have the right ratio of
fuel (hair spray) and oxygen. If you attempt to fire it and nothing happens, check to see if the
flame from the lighter appears. If so, that means there’s enough oxygen, but not enough fuel;
add a quick burst of hair spray. If you don’t see a flame, then there’s too much fuel. Blow
forcefully into the opening of the missile to introduce more O2.
And, as mentioned, remove as much of the gaseous byproducts as you can after each launch.
HANDHELD ROCKET LAUNCHER
My personal favorite! The handheld rocket launcher takes all the power and
excitement of a conventional PVC air cannon and packs it down into a sidearm-
sized blaster! It takes under ten seconds to fully pressurize, and a simple valve
modification allows for easy and quick release, perfect for achieving consistent,
high-energy shots!
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
• at least 23" (59 cm) of schedule 40, 1/2" (1.3 cm)-wide PVC pipe
• measuring stick
• PVC cutters or saw
• PVC primer and solvent (glue)
• 1" (2.5 cm) metal clamp-in valve stem
• drill with 1/2" and 1/4" bits (1.3 cm and 6.4 mm)
• utility cutters
• pliers
• 2" (5 cm) PVC plug
• 2" (5 cm) PVC coupling
• 2" to 1/2" (5 cm to 1.3 cm) PVC slip reducer
• 1/2" (1.3 cm) PVC ball valve
• 1/2" (1.3 cm) PVC tee
• two 1/2" (1.3 cm) PVC end caps
• spray paint, masking tape, and scrap paper (optional)
• hacksaw
• four 10" (25 cm) cable ties
• scissors
• 31/2" (9 cm)-diameter hose clamp
• small air pump with hose and Schrader valve
• flathead screwdriver
Hose clamp: Duct tape
Small air pump: A regular-sized pump. (You may need to detach it between shots if it’s too
unwieldy.)
1 Cut the pipe into two 8" (20 cm), one 4" (10 cm), and two 13/4" (4.5 cm)
pieces. If you’re using a saw, clean up any PVC dust right away.
2 Drill a 1/2" (1.3 cm)-wide hole into the 2" (5 cm) PVC plug. Disassemble the
valve stem.
3 Tire valves are designed to be inserted into a thin steel frame. The PVC plug
is much thicker. You may need to carefully cut the valve’s rubber washer in half
with a utility knife to be able to install it in the next step.
4 Fit the valve stem through the hole in the PVC plug, then reassemble with
the rubber washer, metal washer, and nut, in that order. Tighten the nut with
pliers.
5 Begin gluing the PVC together. In this step, the 2" to 1/2" (5 cm to 1.3 cm)
reducer is glued into the 2" (5 cm) coupling. Follow the instructions on the PVC
primer and adhesive, wear gloves, work in a well-ventilated area, and cover your
work surface with something disposable.
Typically, both parts that are being glued together will need a coat of primer and
a coat of adhesive. Work quickly—the adhesive typically sets in about 30
a coat of adhesive. Work quickly—the adhesive typically sets in about 30
seconds.
6 Continue assembling all the pieces in the arrangement shown here. Note the
following:
• The plug with the valve stem is glued into the open side of the coupling.
• The short 13/4" (4.5 cm) pieces are used to connect the reducer to the valve, and
the valve to the PVC tee.
• An end cap is glued to the bottom of the handle to prevent air from escaping.
7 (Optional) Paint the PVC. A one-color coat of spray paint will add a lot of
cosmetic value. You can also choose to mask off parts of the launcher to paint it
in two colors, as shown here.
Once the first color of paint dries completely, mask off the painted part, and
Once the first color of paint dries completely, mask off the painted part, and
spray on your second color. Make sure to keep the valve stem covered to avoid
clogging.
8 In this project, the key to a high-powered shot is to release the air pressure as
rapidly as possible. This can be challenging because the built-in PVC valve is
often quite stiff, and doesn’t offer much leverage. To make it easier (and faster)
to open the valve, you’ll add a valve handle extension, which will give you
more leverage.
Saw a notch out of the 8" (20 cm) pipe, starting about 11/2" (4 cm) from the end.
The angle of the notch is about 90 degrees, and cut about halfway into the pipe.
The goal is to be able to fit this extension flush against the valve handle. Clean
up the PVC debris as soon as you’re done.
9 Drill a hole through the PVC valve handle and the handle extension. If you
can pinch the two pieces together as you drill, you’ll ensure that the holes are
aligned. If not, drill through the PVC valve handle, and make a mark on the
extension where the drill bit touches it. Then drill a hole into the extension
separately.
10 Attach the extension onto the PVC valve with two cable ties, as shown.
Strap them on as tightly as possible.
11 Repeat on the other side of the valve, and trim off the excess cable tie. You
may need to drill through the pipe first this time.
SAFETY FIRST: PRESSURIZED PVC IS HAZARDOUS
The rocket launcher is very dangerous when pressurized. It is very important to retain a firm
grasp on the launcher. If dropped, the impact may cause the pressurized PVC to explode. I
recommend that you operate the launcher while standing on grass or other relatively soft
surface.
Wait for the PVC adhesive to completely set, according to the instructions on your glue, then
give it a test! Open and close the valve a few times to loosen it up a little bit, especially if you
painted it.
Close the valve by orienting it perpendicular to the barrel. Begin pumping the compression
chamber full of air until it becomes noticeably more difficult to pump. Firmly grasp the
handle with one hand, and the end of the valve extension with the other. Rapidly pull on the
valve extension to release a burst of air!
12 Attach and connect the pump. Hold the pump next to the coupling and loop
the hose clamp around both pieces. Use the flathead screwdriver to slowly
tighten the hose clamp until the pump is securely strapped to the launcher. Do
not overtighten the hose clamp. You do not want to put excessive strain on the
coupling, which will contain the pressurized air. Lastly, attach the pump valve to
the launcher’s valve.
Pro Tip: Stabilize Your Shot

The action of rapidly pulling on the valve handle can cause the whole launcher to wobble
slightly, which may decrease the accuracy of your shot. To counteract this, brace the back of
the launcher against your forearm, as shown here. Or, get inventive and create an arm strap!
CREATE THE ROCKETS
Many things can be fired from the rocket launcher: Mini marshmallows, toy gun
foam darts, and potato chunks are all good choices. However, in my opinion, the
best projectile is a paper and duct tape rocket! They’re accurate, far-flying, and
durable!
TOOLS AND MATERIALS

• 4 paper towel tubes
• extra piece of 1/2" (1.3 cm) PVC pipe, at least 12" (30 cm) long
• duct tape
• 81/2" × 11" (21.6 × 28 cm) card stock*
• scissors
*Regular copy paper can be substituted for card stock, however it’s more difficult to get
straight fins.
1 Wrap a layer of duct tape around the PVC pipe. This will add just enough
width to the inner diameter of your rocket to ensure it slides easily over the
barrel. This is especially important if you painted it.
2 Form the tube. Apply a piece of duct tape along the 81/2" (22 cm) side of the
paper, with about half of the adhesive exposed, as shown. Lay the pipe across
the other side.
3 Tightly roll up the paper around the pipe. As you finish, use the piece of duct
tape from the last step to seal the paper tube closed.
4 Cover the tube with more duct tape and begin making the fins. Cut a
rectangle that’s about 21/2" (6.4 cm) long and 1" (2.5 cm) wide, then cut that
diagonally to make two triangles. Apply a piece of duct tape to one side of the
triangle, as shown.
5 Carefully attach the bottom of the fin near the back of the fuselage, as
shown. Make sure that the fin is straight
6 Fold the remaining tape over the fin and cover the rest with a small piece of
tape. Covering the fins in tape will increase their durability.
7 Repeat until you have a total of three fins.
Cut off the back of the rocket fuselage to create a clean edge that will fit easily
over the barrel.
8 Build the nose cone (this is very similar to the blow gun darts shown here to
shown here). Cut a square of card stock that’s about 31/2" × 31/2" (9 × 9 cm),
then cut a slit from one side to the center.
9 Overlap one side of the paper, as shown, creating a cone shape. Continue
wrapping one side of the paper around the cone shape until you have a narrowly-
tapered point. Apply a small piece of tape to hold the cone together.
10 Cut off the bottom of the cone so the edges are flush with the tabletop as
shown. The diameter of the bottom of the cone should be about as wide as your
rocket tube.
11 Attach the cone to the tip of the rocket with several thin lengths of tape that
run from the tip of the nose cone to about 3" (7 cm) down the length of the
rocket. You’re done!
BALLISTICS GEL TARGET
So you’ve fired your crossbow into a cardboard target, hit cans with rubber
bands, and battered your bed pillows with a ballista. Now what? Get serious with
your target practice by mixing up a batch of homemade ballistics gelatin! This
recipe creates a dense gel that will let you compare the strength of your DIY
shooters by seeing how far the projectiles penetrate it.
TOOLS AND MATERIALS

• container for molding the gel
• 1-cup (240 ml) measuring cup
• saucepan
• water
• unflavored gelatin
• whisk
• cooking oil spray (optional)
• cooking oil spray (optional)
1 Decide on the gel shape. Find a container with a smooth, nonporous surface,
preferably one that’s bowl shaped. (If the container has straight sides, it might be
hard to remove the gel.)
Using the measuring cup, fill the container with room-temperature tap water.
Keep track of how many cups of water you add. For each 1 cup (240 ml) of
water, you’ll need 1 oz (30 g) of gelatin. For this example, I’m making a small
3-cup (720 ml) batch of gel.
2 Pour the water from the container into a saucepan. Whisk in one packet of
gelatin at a time to minimize the amount of clumping.
3 Put the pan on the stove over medium-high heat. Once the water-gelatin
mixture starts to heat up, reduce the heat to low—you do not want the mixture to
boil. Stir continually and gently (to avoid bubbles) until the gelatin is fully
dissolved. Turn off the heat.
4 (Optional) Prepare the mold—it’s your choice. Spraying the mold with
cooking oil will make it easier to remove the gel. However, it will also give the
gel a greasy surface (which you can blot off with paper towels), and a mottled
texture, which makes it less transparent. For the example shown here, I chose not
to use the spray.
5 Pour the gel mixture into the mold and refrigerate. Depending on the size of
the mold, this can take anywhere from 2 to 8 hours.
6 Remove the gel from the mold: If you didn’t use cooking oil, pry the gel
loose by gently slipping your fingers between the gel and the mold. Once it’s
been loosened all around, turn the mold upside down and tap it firmly on a
sturdy surface.
7 Get ready to test!
Place your gel in an area where it’s safe to fire—to make sure your shot won’t
ricochet back at you (in the unlikely event that you miss). Because the gel is
highly absorbent, you can fire at point-blank range. Otherwise, take careful aim,
and fire! Fire different contraptions into the gel in different places to measure the
power of each one!
Modify the gel density

This ratio of 1 ounce (30 g) of gelatin to 1 cup (240 ml) of water creates a very dense gel,
which is suitable for the higher-powered contraptions in this book, such as the PVC Bow. For
a less-dense mixture that’s better suited for things like the BBQ Blaster, try using a ratio of
3/4 ounce (22 g) to 1 cup (240 ml) of water. For a Jell-O–like consistency, you can go as low
as 1/2 ounce (15 g) per 1 cup (240 ml) water.
RESOURCES
I designed each project in this book to be as accessible as possible. Everything is
made from office supplies and/or common materials from hardware stores. The
few things that are a little more difficult to get hold of, such as a metal bicycle
pump, I included because the payoff is so worth it. If your hardware store
doesn’t have it, you can find it online.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Heartfelt thanks go out to my parents, Nancy and Jim, and my colleagues at
Galileo Learning for being endlessly supportive. Another shout-out to my sister
Kaile for shooting some difficult-but-totally-worth-it action shots for this book.
And to Ali, for putting up with months of explosive noises from the garage and
not asking too many questions when I come inside smelling like burnt hair spray.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Lance Akiyama is a maker, writer, and
educator. He creates free-to-use
engineering projects for kids under the
moniker Lance Makes online on
Instructables and Patreon. He’s also
currently employed as a STEAM-
based curriculum developer for Galileo
Learning. Lance spends his free time
making plans to survive the zombie
apocalypse, browsing craft stores for
the latest googly eyes, and attempting
to fix up his house using only
cardboard and duct tape. He resides in
the San Francisco Bay Area. To get in
touch, contact him at
LanceMakes.com.
INDEX
A
aerosol hair spray
Ping-Pong Ball Mortar, 113
Soda Bottle Bombard, 119
air pump, for Handheld Rocket Launcher, 123
B
Ballista
bipod, 77
bolts, 78
firing, 79
frame, 73
introduction to, 72
loading, 79
materials, 73
storing, 79
stringing, 76
throwing arms, 74
tools, 73
torsion bundle, 74
trigger, 77
Ballistics Gel Target
density modification, 137
introduction to, 134
materials, 135
testing, 137
tools, 135
bamboo skewers
Ballista, 73
Onager, 59
BBQ Blaster
barrel, 107
BB Blaster, 111
firing, 111
fuel line, 110
ignition installation, 110
lighter modification, 108
loading, 111
materials, 107
resetting, 111
safety, 111
tools, 107
wiring test, 109
BBQ lighters
BBQ Blaster, 107
BBs, for BBQ Blaster, 107
binder clips
Ballista, 73
Desk Drawer Booby Trap, 89
Duct Tape & PVC Crossbow, 45
Micropult, 17
Slingshot and Arrow, 39
bottle caps
Da Vinci Catapult, 67
Onager, 59
bows & slingshots
Pulley-Powered PVC Bow & Arrow, 28
Wrist-Mounted Crossbow, 50
C
cable ties
BBQ Blaster, 107
Handheld Rocket Launcher, 123
clothespins
Roller-Amplified Many-Thing Shooter, 83
cork
Poker Chip Shooter, 95
craft foam
craft sticks Ballista, 73
Micropult, 17
Onager, 59
Rubber Band Rockets, 19
Slide-Action Rubber Band Gun, 101
curious contraptions
D
Da Vinci Catapult
catapult base, 68
craft sticks, bending, 67
firing, 71
introduction to, 66
loading, 71
materials, 67
power source, 69
supports, 68
tools, 67
winding drum, 69
dental floss, for Ballista, 73
Desk Drawer Booby Trap
arming, 92
catapult, 89
introduction to, 88
materials, 89
tools, 89
trigger, creating, 90
trigger setup, 92
trigger, testing, 91
dowels
Onager, 59
Duct Tape & PVC Crossbow
bolt clip, 48
bolts, 48
bow, attaching, 46
bow, stringing, 46
firing, 49
introduction to, 44
loading, 49
materials, 45
safety, 44, 49
stock assembly, 45
tools, 45
trigger, 47
trigger notch, 47
F
firearms
Ballistics Gel Target, 134
BBQ Blaster, 106
floral wire
G
gelatin, for Ballistics Gel Target, 135
H
Handheld Rocket Launcher
assembly, 123
materials, 123, 129
painting, 126
rockets, 129
safety, 128
shot stabilization, 128
tools, 123, 129
valve handle extension, 126
hose clamp, for Handheld Rocket Launcher, 123
I
index fletching, 35
M
magnet, for BBQ Blaster, 107
mason line, for Pulley-Powered PVC Bow & Arrow, 29
medicine bottle, for BBQ Blaster, 107
Micropult
fins, 19
firing, 17
fuselage, 19
introduction to, 16
leading weights, 19
materials, 17
projectile basket, 17
tools, 17
mini medieval siege machines
Ballista, 72
Onager, 58
N
nails, for Straw Blowgun, 13
O
Onager
base, 59
firing, 65
introduction to, 58
materials, 59
storing, 65
throwing arm, creating, 60
throwing arm, installing, 62
tools, 59
trajectory adjustment, 65
trigger, creating, 63
trigger, testing, 64
upright, 59
P
paint stirrers
paper clips
Ballista, 73
BBQ Blaster, 107
Micropult, 17
Onager, 59
Straw Blowgun, 13
paper towel tubes
paracord, for Duct Tape & PVC Crossbow, 45
pens
BBQ Blaster, 107
Pocket Bow, 23
Ping-Pong Ball Mortar
barrel, 113
bipod, 115
firing, 116
ignition site, 115
loading, 116
materials, 113
tools, 113
troubleshooting, 117
plastic bottles
Pocket Bow
arrow, 24
bows, 23
firing, 25
introduction to, 22
materials, 23
tools, 23
Poker Chip Shooter
ammo container, 97
firing, 99
firing mechanism, 98
foundation, 96
handle, 99
introduction to, 94
loading, 99
materials, 95
precision and, 95
safety, 99
tools, 95
troubleshooting, 99
Pulley-Powered PVC Bow & Arrow
arrow rest, 36
arrows, 34
bow, creating, 29
bow, stringing, 32
firing, 37
firing string, 36
hand dominance, 36
index fletching, 35
introduction to, 28
materials, 29
safety, 28, 37
storing, 37
tools, 29
troubleshooting, 37
PVC pipe
Handheld Rocket Launcher, 123, 129
R
Roller-Amplified Many-Thing Shooter
frame, 83
introduction to, 82
materials, 83
roller, attaching, 84
rubber band, attaching, 84
shot preparation, 87
tools, 83
Rubber Band Rockets
firing, 20
fuselage, 19
introduction to, 18
leading weights, 19
materials, 19
safety, 18
tools, 19
rubber bands
Pocket Bow, 23
rulers
S
safety
BBQ Blaster, 111
disclaimer, 9
Duct Tape & PVC Crossbow, 44, 49
Pulley-Powered PVC Bow & Arrow, 28, 37
Soda Bottle Bombard, 118, 119
simple & successful
Micropult, 16
Pocket Bow, 22
Straw Blowgun, 12
Slide-Action Rubber Band Gun
design variables, 103
firing, 103
handle, 102
loading, 103
loading notches, 101
materials, 101
measurements, 102
slide-stops, 103
tools, 101
trigger, 102
Slingshot and Arrow
arrow rest, 41
arrows, 42
firepower, 42
firing, 43
introduction to, 38
loading, 43
materials, 39
safety, 38
slingshot frame, 39
slingshot supports, 40
tools, 39
Soda Bottle Bombard
bottle mount, 119
firing, 121
loading, 121
materials, 119
missile, 120
safety, 118, 119
tools, 119
Straw Blowgun
blow tube, 13
darts, 13
firing, 15
introduction to, 12
materials, 13
tools, 13
straws
Pocket Bow, 23
Straw Blowgun, 13
string
Onager, 59
T
tennis ball, for Soda Bottle Bombard, 119
troubleshooting
V
valve stem, for Handheld Rocket Launcher, 123
W
Wrist-Mounted Crossbow
bolts, 55
crossbow, creating, 51
crossbow, stringing, 52
firing, 55
introduction to, 50
loading, 55
materials, 51
padding, 54
straps, 54
tools, 51
trigger, 52
trigger handle, 53
troubleshooting, 55
[ALSO AVAILABLE]
Duct Tape Engineer

978-1-63159-130-3
Rubber Band Engineer
978-1-63159-104-4
PVC and Pipe Engineer
978-1-63159-334-5
© 2018 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.
First published in 2018 by Rockport Publishers, an imprint of The Quarto Group,

100 Cummings Center, Suite 265-D, Beverly, MA 01915, USA.
T (978) 282-9590 F (978) 283-2742 QuartoKnows.com
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without
written permission of the copyright owners. All images in this book have been
reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned, and
no responsibility is accepted by producer, publisher, or printer for any
infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this
publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply
with information supplied. We apologize for any inaccuracies that may have
occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a subsequent
reprinting of the book.
Rockport Publishers titles are also available at discount for retail, wholesale,
promotional, and bulk purchase. For details, contact the Special Sales Manager
by email at [email protected] or by mail at The Quarto Group, Attn:
Special Sales Manager, 401 Second Avenue North, Suite 310, Minneapolis, MN
55401, USA.
Digital edition: 978-1-63159632-2

Softcover edition: 978-1-63159-427-4
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available Design and

page layout: Laia Albaladejo
Photography: Lance Akiyama and Kaile Akiyama

Launchers, Lobbers, and Rockets Engineer - Make 20 Awesome Ballistic Blasters With Ordinary Stuff (PDFDrive)

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Launchers, Lobbers, and Rockets Engineer - Make 20 Awesome Ballistic Blasters With Ordinary Stuff (PDFDrive)

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Launchers, Lobbers, and Rockets Engineer - Make 20 Awesome Ballistic Blasters With Ordinary Stuff (PDFDrive)

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

CONTENTS

SIMPLE AND SUCCESSFUL

BOWS AND SLINGSHOTS

MINI MEDIEVAL SIEGE MACHINES

Greetings, aspiring blaster crafter! In your hands is a complete compendium of

Ingenuity, action, and explosions await!

The projects in this book that are deemed Extremely Dangerous

“The price of greatness is responsibility.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Pro Tip: Use Leading Weights

3 Stand by for take off.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Tip: Left or Right Handed?

5 Create the slingshot supports.

1 Make the Crossbow Bolts

Pro Tip: Safer Bolt Alternative

5 Load and fire.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

4 Glue the cork segments to the craft sticks, as shown.

20 Bend the tip of a second paper clip, as shown.

Pro Tip: Long Live Your Catapult

1 Create the bolts.

Pro Tip: Take Out the Tension

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

4 Attach the rubber band and roller.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

10 Test the trigger.

1 Arm the trap.

This project requires precision.

11 Build the firing mechanism.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

2 Create the loading notches.

Note: Measurements May Vary

Note: Measurements May Vary

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Why is the ignition in back and the fuel in front?

Optional: Make It a BB Blaster

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Pro Tip: Stabilize Your Shot

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Modify the gel density

Duct Tape Engineer

First published in 2018 by Rockport Publishers, an imprint of The Quarto Group,

Digital edition: 978-1-63159632-2

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available Design and

You might also like